tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-135715322009-12-11T12:18:48.086+01:00Various Aspects of Perfume, from History & Chemistry to Haute ParfumerieOctavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.comBlogger8571251000fragranceshttp://feedburner.google.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-86685960425271553822009-12-06T08:15:00.000+01:002009-12-06T08:15:00.400+01:002009-12-06T08:15:00.400+01:00

Daring and spectacular, the new perfume from Monocle takes us to the land of spices and unusual scents - the smell of soap but not the one I dislike in fine fragrances. This time, it is not the regular white bar but a very traditional one. The perfume was inspired by a trip to the Bekaa Valley and "it will remind regular visitors to Lebanon of the country's hand-made laurel soaps and fragrant

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-47762337775620209572009-12-04T18:47:00.004+01:002009-12-04T19:04:55.958+01:002009-12-04T19:04:55.958+01:00

Osmoz is launching 2 new olfactory kits in the collection "Les Coulisses du Parfum" and has also a special price for a very fragrant Christmas: Complimentary shipping and 5% off on your order until december the 17th.Volume IV, Vibrations of spices12 emblematic spices essences to smell.Spices are an invitation to both an olfactory voyage and to time travel. Humanity’s first currency, they inspired

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-9778858442962651452009-12-04T11:52:00.002+01:002009-12-04T11:54:41.135+01:002009-12-04T11:54:41.135+01:00

Press release from ESXENCE:"The second edition of ESXENCE – The Scent of Excellence, the event dedicated to artistic perfumery, will take place in Milan from the 25th till the 28th of march 2010 at the Museo della Permanente in Via Turati, one of the cultural Italian landmarks, in this way renewing it’s value a san artistic event, and giving visibility to excellences that meet a certain level of

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-66586402624556343962009-12-04T07:40:00.001+01:002009-12-04T07:40:00.322+01:002009-12-04T07:40:00.322+01:00

The new feminine creation of Jacques Zolty comes as the alter-ego of the very contrasted aromatic-fougere masculine fragrance launched several years ago. Lily Beach is very delicate, sensual and musky, soft like a precious cashmere wrapping the skin of a woman.It starts as a very green gardenia and exotic lily blended with strong spicy notes of cardamom and ginger (plus ivy leaf). Lily Beach is a

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-54882551743487934442009-12-03T13:36:00.004+01:002009-12-03T13:48:38.998+01:002009-12-03T13:48:38.998+01:00

After the mythical garden of Hesperides, that gave us Eau d'Hadrien, and the "Asian garden after the rain" transposed in Un Matin d'orage, Annick Goutal takes us to another garden, more secret and even more beautiful. If in the previous cases the "garden" was a metaphor located somewhere in the Eden of beautiful scents inspired by nature, this time it is an ancient garden located near Rome. The

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-37869064438187279842009-12-01T13:32:00.010+01:002009-12-01T17:46:52.171+01:002009-12-01T17:46:52.171+01:00

Shocking news came Monday from Paris:"A French court yesterday fined Ebay €1.7m ($2.55m) for failing to stop the sales of LVMH perfume and beauty products on its French website. Allowing users to sell genuine LVMH products on Ebay violates a 2008 court order that barred the activity. " (From Financial Times)On AFP you can read some statements in french.Pierre Godé, administrateur du groupe LVMH -

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-42050160262810217902009-11-27T16:00:00.003+01:002009-11-27T16:04:10.813+01:002009-11-27T16:04:10.813+01:00

osMoz is offering free shippping on your order of “Les Coulisses du Parfum” olfactory-training kits. Plus, the first 10 people to order from shop.osmoz.com will receive a free gift (worth 32 EUR)!Today: Free shipping on Shop.osmoz.com

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-78243743414259389402009-11-27T13:46:00.004+01:002009-11-27T14:02:33.545+01:002009-11-27T14:02:33.545+01:00

A new fragrance concept store will open this december in Bruxelles - Place Georges Brugmann 13 and the soul of this new idea is Anne Pascale Mathy-Devalck. Here, in the Antichambre the perfumes are created under the nose of the client from a selection of cca 30 bases and after a conversation to explore the tastes and the preferences. The prices are from 165 to 195 EUR (50 / 100 ml). It seems that

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-79500018074789755472009-11-26T21:11:00.003+01:002009-11-26T22:30:42.154+01:002009-11-26T22:30:42.154+01:00

It is hard to call perfumes what I found in the last Tom Ford collection. With one exception, they are rather ideas in a bottle, interesting but unfinished concepts. The notion of cleanliness and lightness comes like a breath of fresh air in the very dark and contrasted Tom Ford universe (remember, he started with the heavy intoxicating Black Orchid). Let it be … white like the very first

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-70663730635157923182009-11-25T11:05:00.003+01:002009-11-25T11:19:53.227+01:002009-11-25T11:19:53.227+01:00

Great news for his fall. Canada has a new perfumer and an exclusive line. Isabelle Michaud, perfumer from Quebec and former ISIPCA student (we were classmates) is launching next week her new line available at Boutique EspritNouveau (the website very soon). A very special personal story and a very unusual background in the fragrance universe.You can read a short interview done by Marian Bendeth on

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-15423618837185356742009-11-24T17:42:00.006+01:002009-11-28T19:29:16.551+01:002009-11-28T19:29:16.551+01:00

A very important bottle auction will take place next week in Paris for those who love the history of fragrances and the beautiful artistic bottles.FLACONS ET OBJETS DE PARFUMERIE DU XXeme SIECLEPrestige de la parfumerie du XXe siècleEXPERT Jean-Marie MARTIN-HATTEMBERGEXPOSITIONS PUBLIQUES :Samedi 28 novembre de 11 h à 18 h - Dimanche 29 novembre de 11 à 12 h You can find additional information on

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-71036687285794254092009-11-18T19:44:00.002+01:002009-11-18T19:50:37.545+01:002009-11-18T19:50:37.545+01:00

Last week I discovered 2 new masculine creations from Cartier, both are flankers but exquisite.Declaration by Cartier Cologne - is an excellent interpretation of the original with a delicious lemony top note (and not very much cologne).Roadster Sport - a refined aromatic woody version with a mandarine top and a dry guaiac note.Should we hope for a new feminine perfume (global launch) in 2010? My

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-92183697928456230932009-11-18T19:07:00.003+01:002009-11-18T19:27:07.465+01:002009-11-18T19:27:07.465+01:00

Via google, I found the description of this new book (I've not read it yet):"This is an unprecedented book with secret perfume formulas revealed from the private vault of Master Perfumer, Dr. Bobbie Kelley. This is a trail-blazing book in that, for the fi rst time in the history of the perfume trade that a perfume company has allowed such private information or intellectual property to be

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-10604529208894031422009-11-18T18:14:00.002+01:002009-11-18T18:38:25.130+01:002009-11-18T18:38:25.130+01:00

I'm one of those who strongly believe that Fragrance is not subjective & not personal (plus the beauty is NOT in the nose of the beholder) and that we should always make a distinction between we/our tastes & personal disposition and what we smell. The nose is never wrong, only the words/associations might not be precise. Of course, the perfumer like any artist should forget about any known or

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-28597058458357617442009-11-18T15:29:00.002+01:002009-11-18T15:44:34.843+01:002009-11-18T15:44:34.843+01:00

Sirocco is one of the most refined and underestimated perfumes launched by Lucien Lelong in the 30's. With this creation, Jean Carles takes us into an intellectual exercise around the oriental theme demonstrating his composition technique. In those years the opopanax bases were sold under different names by almost all RM houses. After Emeraude and Shalimar, Jean Carles creates the last perfume of

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-90367608025578347092009-11-10T22:19:00.004+01:002009-11-10T22:39:40.850+01:002009-11-10T22:39:40.850+01:00

In the delicate and decadent Belle Epoque era there was a special perfume surrounded in mistery and uncompromising beauty. Contessa Azzurra was one of the very first perfumes of the house created by Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone and also one the the great successes until the 50's. This Giviemme perfume was trademarked in 1926 but it was created many years before. The bottle of the perfume and its

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-31942430123202606282009-11-10T07:25:00.000+01:002009-11-10T07:25:00.063+01:002009-11-10T07:25:00.063+01:00

When Byredo appeared on the market it seemed a new and very cool brand with a design feeling. It became clearer in the next month what was hidden in the bottles, the white version of Frédéric Malle style.After the detergent with pear called Blanche, the new fragrance couldn't be black neither back to black. The name of the French poet that gave us several poems with scented words and a beautiful

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In an interview given in the early 70's in Israel, Judith Muller explains her unusual path in the cosmetic industry. Born in Hungary in a wealthy family, the dream of the "spoiled girl" ended very soon with the arrival of Hitler and then Stalin. With her family she moved to Israel forced to earn their living. She was in the army and set up her first beauty institute for her comrades. Then she

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-46244039325208258592009-11-03T19:02:00.004+01:002009-11-03T19:25:40.893+01:002009-11-03T19:25:40.893+01:00

The greatest surprise of this fall came from the resurrection of a very mysterious and fascinating British brand. Grossmith, known also in the past as J. Grossmith & Son (one of the oldest british perfume houses founded in 1835), will be again on the market with the help of Roja Dove and Baccarat but also because of the passion of a descendent of the perfumer who discovered quite recently the

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Pierre Guillaume has unveiled yesterday on his facebook page the new surprise for 2010. PAPYRUS DE CIANE is a woody green perfume and a modern interpretation of the classic and famous Mousse de Saxe base from de Laire (found in Nuit de Noel but also several great perfumes from Guerlain, Rochas, YSL and Chanel)."Des Fontaines d'Aréthuse, aux eaux brunes des méandres de Ciane, sa noblesse se pare

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-46896472334401757512009-10-29T08:00:00.000+01:002009-10-29T08:00:08.760+01:002009-10-29T08:00:08.760+01:00

Sira des Indes was one of the most special modern creations of Jean Michel Duriez for Jean Patou with its accord of champaca-sandalwood-milk-banana set in a very oriental context. If this exceptional fragrance was set in an exotic Indian palace with opulent decoration, the new perfume from Penhaligon`s takes us to the jungle for an exotic experience of a rare scent. With a name that is close to a

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-10479960874140555612009-10-28T22:20:00.004+01:002009-10-28T22:28:04.471+01:002009-10-28T22:28:04.471+01:00

Seen on ebay this week - a perfume probably introduced cca 1985 as a gift. Eau de Voyage by Louis Vuitton. Plain bottle similar to Denim After shave and a very clean design like the one use today by Prada for their exclusive range. Last photo is from a 2007 auction. A must for Vuitton aficionados because the house is not selling any perfume today.

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-79409844609171893902009-10-28T08:00:00.000+01:002009-10-28T08:00:01.685+01:002009-10-28T08:00:01.685+01:00

After a very sticky perfume called Silver Rain with its overdose of red fruits, caramel and sugar worn like a thick anti-age face mask, La Prairie has released a very curious set of 3 perfumes named after other cosmetic ingredients. Silver, Gold and Platinum are here not for their alchemical properties but because of their … supposed cosmetic action. Like caviar and pearls, they are used in

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-82471545170359155562009-10-27T15:41:00.005+01:002009-10-27T16:38:11.459+01:002009-10-27T16:38:11.459+01:00

This year at the SFP, Firmenich presented a conference describing their 50 years of research on grey amber and the development of new molecules (the history of ambrox, cetalox, ambrinol, Fixateur 404, etc since the late 30's). The new perfume from Dior could be considered a beautiful metaphor of this scientific research and also a modern interpretation of the ambery family in a pure classic Dior

Octavian Coifanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18342689176413052674noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-22415453939988753062009-10-26T18:35:00.004+01:002009-10-26T18:47:38.440+01:002009-10-26T18:47:38.440+01:00

With Calamity J, Juliet has Gun writes a very curious page in the universe of modern creations. This is the opposite of their creations, most were more Juliet than the gun, composed around rich floral-rose notes (from the softest to the deep oud undertone). The new creation reveals the "gun", the masculine side of the seductress, the interpretation of the bullet, like the design of their new vapo

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