I was at a drift day a couple of weeks ago and a guy took a few snaps while I was getting a ride around the track.

Needs a good clean and maybe a couple of spoilers…… ;-)

More updates soon. Including; rear half cage fitting, battery relocation fitting, oil catch tank and a few tidy up jobs.

Oh…and new bumper will be here mid april…..took bloody long enough

So i’m driving halfway across the country to checkout a Honda Civic SiR that I was thinking of buying for my daily driver, when got there and found the car I wasn’t impressed at all. Nice colour but condition was poor, dents, rattles and a warning light on the dash. More then that though this was the first EK i’d seen and I wasn’t very impressed with the power / speed either.

Anyway I drove back and three miles out of my town the engine cut coming down a steep hill. Nice! I coasted it over into a farm entrance and tried to turn it over but nothing. I did the basic checks but couldn’t figure it out. I called out recovery and after an hour they turned up and did some more checking, turns out the engine wasn’t getting fuel. Checked the lines, injectors and relays and all are fine so it looks like the Wahlbro fuel pump has died. Annoying!

To tow me home he had to remove the front bumper, intercooler, turbo pipes and so i’m left with a pretty poorly looking 180sx sat on my drive :( I ordered a new fuel pump last night so if it’s in stock this weekend i’ll swap it over and hopefully fire it up.

Old cars eh!?

This clip features some fantastic PS13’s, a couple of 180sx’s and some real beaters, check it out :D

“Lee does not irregular ridge near some paparazzi video ○ raki Prefecture. The cart is pretty cool to drift in a single lane and I guess the drift is much more manly race chasing.”

I Figured after seeing folk on SXOC ask how to do this I’d take photos whilst fitting mine and do a little “How too” to help out others, so here goes.

1st: Remove panel shown below, it should pop of with a little pressure. Then undo the 4 screws holding the gator on (located underneath). You can then unscrew the gear knob and the gator will come off too.

2nd: You need to remove the center console. Once again it should be held in by 4 screws on the sides and 2 at the front. There are 2 at the front and 2 at the rear between the seats (move your seats all the way forward to get easy access to the rear ones).

Once these are undone the console will lift up over the gear lever and you  will need to unhook the connectors attached to the lighter etc and the console will lift off freely.

3rd: This is how it should look now (sorry for crap photos). You now undo these 4 bolts and remove the rubber surround, like so…

Yes the center console, gator and gear knob are still on, I forgot to take photos whilst they were off.

4th: At this stage it starts to get messy (I suggest wearing disposable rubber gloves).

There are 6 bolts that hold the shifter in place. 4 are easily accessible as you can see below, the other 2 are under the transmission tunnel. To get these I had to crawl under the car and access the from underneath. Once under the car its fairly easy to locate the bolts as you will be able to see into the car through the hole. If you have a ratchet spanner, you should be able to do it through the hole from inside the car. I got the one on the drivers side from above but the passenger side needed more “leverage” to come loose.

Once all 6 bolts are removed the shifter should lift off through the hole.  My one seems to have had gasket sealed used to attach it so a hammer, a large flat screwdriver and a light tap popped it off.

Warning! at the same time the spring you can see below popped out whilst I was under the car, I had to guess where to put it back.

5th: Hard part over (kinda lol).

You then slot your new shiny short shifter through the hole and line up the holes. I put the bottom right bolt in loosely to help line up the other bolt holes,  then the other 3 loosely to hold it still.

Now its time to crawl back under the car and drop the front 2 back in place too (lots of swearing and bumped forehead is optional lol). I got them all finger tight then did the easy 4 then the front 2 nice and tight.

6th: reverse stages 1 to 4 and hey presto, one fitted short shifter.

This took me about an hour in total but I did start at 9 pm, it was about 2 degrees out side and my car was only jacked up about 8 inches (front wheels where resting on spare standard s13 rims as I couldn’t find my axle stands.

Hope this helps someone.

Jamie

There will be a few glitches popup but I will be fixing these over the next couple of day so stick with us! I also intend to do a run of limited edition 180sx.co.uk logo stickers for your own S13s, so if you’d like to know more drop me a comment below.

Garage Defend’s 180sx is their fantastic flagship time attack car, it’s great seeing a 180sx that isn’t just built for drift racing so I feel it deserves a place here on 180sx.co.uk.

The car features some really neat details such as the front and rear carbon splitters used to channel airflow around the car.

My FC3S wielding friend and I went out for a nighttime blast and we found an okay spot for a couple of pics so here they are :) These photos were the spur of the moment type work so apologies for quality!

Now here is a rare opportunity! Jon is selling his absolutely stunning KPS13 right here in the UK. Take a look at the pictures and spec list and contact him by commenting below if you are interested in buying it. I personally think this is one of the best examples of a KPS13 that i’ve seen.

ENGINE
Apexi filter
Apex full decat exhaust
Engine damper
IK24 colder plugs
HKS ssqv
Greddy FMIC
Walbro

CHASSIS
HSD coilees
Apex camber arms
Driftworks hicas elim toe arms
Brembo 310mm front discs
Rear grooved discs
Braided break lines
S14a 5 stud hub conversion
S14a lower arms
Red stuff pads
Front and rear strut braces

EXTERIOR
VERTEX kit
Origin front and side repeaters
GTR grill
Red + white rear lights
SSR’s F-17/9j et19 R- 18/9.5j et12
Driftworks internal drive nuts

INTERIOR
OMP 310mm wheel
Apexi boost gauge
Apexi AVCR
Bride gaiter
Drift handbrake
Richbrook gearknob

The alarm is a falcom preditor XL4 with remote telli start,turbo timer and proxi sensors built in.

Approx 59,000 miles, just been tax’d and MOT’d.

Price: £6500 (note this price doesnt inc the plate or wheels)