At first I was a bit nervous staying there since I knew cruise ships visit; however, I looked at the port schedule and saw they weren’t stopping often, and there weren’t a bunch of ships at the same time. I figured the cruise passengers would be easy enough to avoid.

Getting to La Paz

One of the first challenges of visiting La Paz is actually getting there from the international airport (SJD). One could fly to the La Paz airport from SJD, but that’s a bit more pricey than I wanted. There are some private shuttle companies, but the most reasonable one has a policy that if you miss the shuttle you reserved, you will have to buy a new ticket. There is a way of getting there by local buses, but it’s not an easy feat, and after a longish flight I’m not interested in going through a bunch of extra hassle.

In the end, I opted to hire a private driver. Generally, you can expect to pay about $100 USD for that ride. It’s about a 2-1/2-hour drive. So the higher price is a bit more understandable when you know they’re basically taking up at least 5 hours of their day, plus gas and tolls, to come get you and return to La Paz.

Do keep in mind, though, that for extra reliability and comfort, you’ll need to pay more. Our prearranged driver was late, and so we ended up having to wait for about 2 hours for her to arrive. This on top of the long drive to La Paz created a very long day for us. “You get what you pay for” may warrant paying extra for a more comfortable and less annoying ride. Or hopping on another flight.

The return trip can be done by shuttle more easily since you won’t have to worry about possibly missing it due to a flight delay, etc. We did ask our Airbnb host for a reference, and that driver was much better and charged us less as well.

Incidentally, if you’re going to La Paz and would like to use our driver, just shoot me an email through our contact form. He uses WhatsApp. I’ve shared his number with others, and they reported he was really great for them as well. They also used him for some day trips. It won’t be a fancy car, but it was comfortable, and he’s reliable and cool to visit with. He does speak little English, but they had no problems communicating with him even though they don’t speak Spanish.

Eating in La Paz

If you’ve been following this blog for at least a bit, you know food is a big part of my travels. So, naturally, I do have some recommendations.

Mercado Municipal General Nicolás Bravo: This is one of the fresh markets. As is common, you will also find food vendors outside as well as indoors in the kind of food court area. I tried a couple of different ones, and they were really good. You will not find tourist food here, which is something I really enjoy. Each time we visited, I rarely saw another foreigner.

Maria California: This ended up being our favorite restaurant. Everything tasted very fresh, and their coffee drinks were fabulous! We could actually go there just for their coffee. They had a great amount of different options on their menu. Great spot for breakfast or lunch.

Los Magueyes: Also known as Jose Magueyes. If you’re wanting a more festive atmosphere and perhaps foods you are more familiar with, this is a pretty good stop. Portions are quite large. It can get a bit on the loud side, but it wasn’t a problem for us to hear each other and speak normally. If you have some people who are more sensitive to noise with you, you’ll want to avoid this place.

Mc Fisher: Also known as Mac Fisher. You will likely find more tourists here, but don’t let that stop you. They had really great food and drinks, and service was top-notch. Their salsas were amazing, too, and it’s one of the few places in the world where I felt like one of their salsas was a bit spicy (which is something I LOVE).

Roticerias Jerico: This is a place that roasts chicken and ribs, and it was quite good. He’s spent a good amount of time in the US, so if you don’t speak Spanish that’s absolutely no problem. We found him entertaining to visit with, and his food was so good we got stuff from him at least a few times during our stay.

Generally speaking, avoiding any place along the malecón will be in your best interest. Not only to save money, but the food is often quite meh, especially for the price. However, I will say the ice cream/shaved ice place called Señor Raspado is worth it. They had some great options including some very traditional Mexican choices.

Activities in La Paz

Unfortunately, I can’t really offer any advice here. We were mostly there to chill out. I did explore some whale watching tours, but it was a bit too early in the season still. There is one that is led by a marine biologist who funnels the money into conservation efforts, and he was very honest with me when we communicated about the possibility of a tour, etc.

Walking along the malecón was often enjoyable. In the morning, it can be fun to see daily life, pelicans landing in their most ungraceful way. In the evening, you can enjoy some beautiful sunsets. We were there shortly after Christmas, and the area known as Explanada Malecón had some fun Christmas decorations.

If you’re traveling with children who have mobility challenges or other physical challenges, there is a fabulous park along the beach that is dedicated to differently abled children and had wheelchair-accessible rides, etc. It was kind of impressive since I haven’t seen many of these anywhere else in the world. So kudos to the local government!

The area around the cathedral and the Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur was also interesting to walk around. We didn’t go inside either buildings, but from what I saw online the museum looked quite promising if you enjoy art museums.

While walking around, look around at buildings because there is a lot of beautiful street art in La Paz.

Overall Impressions of La Paz

La Paz is a very large city, but if you’re near the coastline it’s very quiet. Actually, it’s probably the most quiet city we’ve been to in Mexico. We didn’t have tons of frequent fireworks, roosters in the morning, vendors going up and down the street playing music or making other noise, etc. Our place was like a block from a popular skateboard park, and they did play loud music at night, but it always got quiet at about around 10 p.m., so even that wasn’t an issue.

Is La Paz worth visiting?

If you’re looking for a sleepy area to just kind of chillax, this is a decent spot. I appreciated it more than San José del Cabo. Most tourists were Mexican nationals. Cruise passengers typically stay along the malecón so were very easy to avoid. It’s easy to experience the local culture.

Have you been? What was your experience?

Getting food recommendations from some of the Facebook groups for PV was also quite a challenge as expat and visitor styles can be quite different. When you live in a foreign country, you’re often going to want foods that are familiar, comfort foods, and things that remind you of “back home.” As a visitor, my general rules for eating out are: (1) eat local cuisine, and (2) eat things I can’t get back home.

If you haven’t been reading my blog for long, then it may also be helpful for you to know that I generally crave street food, “hole in the wall” places, and can have what some friends call “an adventurous palate.” I won’t be putting up much competition for Andrew Zimmern, but I think Anthony Bourdain (oh how I miss him!) would be proud.

For example, at a restaurant I asked if they had taco de lengua (tongue taco), and he replied he was out but had lips, cheeks, and eyes available. I actually considered lips since that’s new to me, but I really was craving tongue.

Yes, I do also eat “normal” food, so no worries. And really most of my recommendations in this post would likely be food appreciated by non- to less-adventurous eaters as well.

Notes about Eating in Puerto Vallarta

During my visit most restaurants only accepted cash (US dollars or pesos).

If you haven’t been to Mexico before, know that they use the $ symbol for pesos as well. So when you see meals are $150 or more, know you’re seeing prices in pesos not dollars.

While paying in USD may be easier for American visitors, know that they are not giving you the fairest exchange rate. For example, most restaurants were giving a 16:1 exchange, when the current rate was over 18:1. It may not seem like much, but it does add up. I recommend using pesos not only for this reason, but because I feel like part of the whole joy of travel is absorbing as much of the local culture as possible, and paying with the local currency is just part of the experience.

When withdrawing money from the ATM, or when paying with a credit card, make sure to say no if it offers to do a conversion. If you’re given a bill showing a rate for USD when using a credit card, make sure to tell them you want to pay in pesos. Withdraw and pay in pesos if you want the best deal.

In some areas of Mexico, it’s common for patrons to say “Buen provecho” to other customers as they’re leaving. You can just nod and smile or say “Gracias” if this happens. This doesn’t seem to be the custom in PV, though.

Servers will generally not bring you the bill until you request it. So when you’re ready, just catch their attention and make a little checkmark in the air with your finger(s). They’ll know you’re ready for the la cuenta.

For the items below, please note that the name of the restaurant is hyperlinked to their location on Google Maps, not their website.

Tacos

This is definitely the most common meal in PV and probably most varied. Some places open very early in the morning and close around noon while others will open at 7 PM and remain in service until 3 AM.

Places in the Zona Romántica

Tacos El Moreno This taco cart provided food with tremendous flavor. They have a really good selection of different types of tacos including birria and adobada. She makes your tortillas with your order, so they’re incredibly fresh.

Tacos Sonorita Olas Altas They have many good offerings, but the tacos al pastor I had here were the best I’ve eaten anywhere in Mexico.

Places in 5 de Diciembre

Birrieria Liz Both times I ate here, I was the only foreigner. However, they do speak at least some limited English. You can get your birria as beef or goat, and they offer it in other forms besides tacos as well. You’ll see the menu on their wall. Please note quesadillas here are not the same as what is served in other parts of North America. In this area, a quesadilla is basically a taco with cheese added. If you’re interested in getting the goat (chivo), your best bet is to come early on Thursday or Friday. Once it’s sold out, it won’t be available again until the next Thursday. They’re closed on Wednesdays. While their signage says they open at 8, they don’t really start serving food until 8:30.

Carnitas “La Güera” is a really nice cart for carnitas super close to a beach. These tacos were bigger than what I had at many other places in PV, and I ate a lot of tacos on this trip.

Pepe’s Tacos is a spot that is mixed with locals, tourists, and expats. Food portions were quite large. I also had a frozen mango margarita which was really good.

Seafood

As you might imagine, being a coastal city you’ll have a wide selection of fish and seafood in PV. I did a seafood lover’s tour, and I’d highly recommend it. I ended up being their only customer that day, so it ended up being a private tour.

Places in the Zona Romántica

Tuna Azúl was a true surprise. We stopped here during the tour. I usually do not eat raw seafood, but we had a raw tuna tostada that quickly had me rethinking my reticence. They also sell their hot sauce, and I wished I hadn’t been doing carry-on during this trip because I would’ve brought a few bottles home. It was so incredibly delicious!

Mariscos El Güero This is a family-owned shop which has been here for many years. The food was quite good.

Marisma Fish Taco They have other things besides fish tacos as well. Food was really good with great service as well. The ladies in the food truck were a fun group.

De Cantaro This is a grill and bar, and they have a lot of offerings. I had their shrimp tacos which were served on a blue corn tortilla, as well as a fish taco. I also had a delicious cocktail which was made from hibiscus, raicilla, and wine. This is a great stop!

Marina

El Coleguita was a bit of a surprise. It’s located in the marina area which is packed with tourists (both foreign and Mexican), so I was a bit nervous stopping there, but I was meeting a friend so we didn’t have a lot of nearby options that would work for me (since I’m not getting a hamburger while visiting Mexico). It was pretty busy, and I noticed most of the customers appeared to be Mexican so that helped me feel a bit better about things. The food was excellent! I had a tostada with marlin and a ceviche mixto, and they both were absolutely wonderful. Mariachis occasionally play which can get quite loud, but they usually stop for a bit after each song so it isn’t constant noise.

Other Fare

Barcelona Tapas This is a Spanish restaurant, and it was excellent! Food, service, ambiance, and the view were all just stupendous. The restaurant is on a hill (so get a taxi, Uber, or something if you have mobility/energy challenges), and the dining room is on the fourth floor of their building (they have an elevator). You get a gorgeous view of the bay. I was in PV near the end of whale season, and while I was sitting at my table enjoying a delicious cocktail, a baby humpback breached three times. It’s really hard to beat that experience! They do accept credit cards.

La Bodeguita del Medio This is a Cuban restaurant and bar next to the malecón. If you sit upstairs, you are treated to an excellent view. Services was quite as was the food. The building, music, and food reminded me a lot of when we went to Cuba. Some nights they have live music if that’s your type of thing. They also accept credit cards.

If you want a much more local feel, head to Pitillal. I saw maybe 2 other gringos while exploring. There were many typical Mexican eateries here.

¡Provecho!

Is it worth visiting Puerto Vallarta? This is actually a tougher question than I anticipated. Unlike tourism hotspots like Tulum, PV is a tougher call for me.

Is Puerto Vallarta choked with tourists?

I visited in late March, which is still in the high season. I was also there before Semana Santa which can get quite crowded. Puerto Vallarta is not only heavily touristed by people from the US and Canada, but also from domestic tourism. PV is not that far from Guadalajara which is the 7th largest city in Mexico, so it’s also a hotspot for Mexican tourism.

A tour guide told me that PV’s population of expats is about 12% year round. During high season, that number almost triples at least.

When is high season?

Typically, Puerto Vallarta’s high season is from December through mid April. After Semana Santa things calm down quite a bit, although PV’s Pride occurs in late May.

July through September is the time of year where it is much more humid, “hotter than hell,” and hurricane season. Thankfully, though, PV has only had four hurricanes hit in the last 50 years. It can be so miserable during this time period that many locals told me they try to go elsewhere as well.

So can you escape the tourist throngs?

It is definitely a bit tough to escape them completely. I stayed in the neighborhood 5 de diciembre (5D), and there were many more locals in this area. It’s right next to the popular malecón, so it’s easy to still hit some of the more popular spots without being in the noisy throng of the infamous Zona Romántica (ZR).

There were some taco places I visited where I was the only foreigner, or there were only a few of us. In the grocery store Ley I would see maybe 2-3 other foreigners, although that definitely depended on the time of day because other times as I was walking by I spotted many more. However, they seemed to be expats.

When I visited the municipal mercado, I only spotted one other gringo.

While strolling on the beach, I would see a good blend of locals and expats, but it was nothing compared to the areas near ZR.

Frankly, I found the ZR to be nauseating, but it’s a hotspot for other foreigners.

I heard more English from locals in this area than any other place I have visited in Mexico, although I imagine Playa del Carmen is probably much like this now. Generally speaking, staff were happy when they discovered I speak Spanish, but in one restaurant I did actually have a waiter debate me on whether or not we should be speaking Spanish. When I explained “I’m in Mexico so I’m going to speak Spanish,” he finally acquiesced but was quite confused by the gringo who didn’t want to speak English.

Having cruise passengers only affected one of my food tours where the guide wanted to make sure we finished more quickly so they could get back to their ship on time.

If you stay in the areas of 5D, Versalles, and Pitillal you’ll see fewer tourists and expats, although the foreign population is growing steadily in Versalles.

So, is it worth visiting Puerto Vallarta?

While I was unhappy with the number of foreigners, how difficult it was to find real Mexican food other than tacos, and the higher prices overall I’d say Puerto Vallarta was worth the visit. I’d definitely go back in shoulder season.

The sunsets were consistently breathtaking. I rarely missed one during my stay. I enjoyed the blend of Mexican and foreign tourists. The breezes and joie de vivre while walking along the malecón were thoroughly enjoyable. It was fun watching the pelicans.

Even though there were a lot of people in this area, I found myself usually grinning broadly and feeling quite happy.

Near the end of my visit, I was sitting in Restaurante Barcelona Tapas. The restaurant is on a hill, and the dining area is on the fourth floor so you have a fantastic view. While I was sitting there enjoying the sunshine, breeze, and a delightful cocktail I was also enjoying the ocean view. Suddenly, a baby humpback decided to breach. It did this a total of three times. I was nearly in tears from sheer joy.

Just that evening alone would’ve had me coming back to Puerto Vallarta.

Have you visited PV? What did you think?

Since we were coming to Mexico later in the year, we decided to time our visit so we could also be there during Día de los Muertos. While CDMX has quite the Día festivities, I wanted to be in a smaller city, especially since COVID was still a consideration. So, I planned our time in Puebla to cover this as well.

Puebla is often a day trip for people visiting CDMX, and I have to say you’re really missing out if you only spend one day here. We were here for a week, and I could’ve easily stayed longer. So try to plan at least 2-3 days for your visit, especially if you’re a food lover.

A Día de los Muertos exhibit

Getting to Puebla

With Puebla being Mexico’s fourth largest city and only a few hours from CDMX (because of traffic) and Veracruz, one has many options for getting to the city.

As I had used the Cabify app frequently in CDMX, I decided to see if it was possible to get a driver to take us to Puebla. It isn’t always a sure thing, but we were able to get one and the price difference between that and a bus wasn’t large enough to make me shy away, especially when considering traveling to the bus station in CDMX, waiting for the bus, etc. During our trip, there was a collision on the highway, and our driver was able to use another route. We passed many buses, so I was once again happy we had taken this option.

Even though a bus is likely better ecologically, and cheaper, I do appreciate having time to speak with the driver who is a local. Part of the joys of travel is getting to learn about different people, their life, their experiences, etc. This is also one of the things I miss when traveling in a country where I don’t speak the language.

On our return to CDMX, we did go by bus as Cabify and Uber didn’t have any drivers available to do this long trip.

Getting Around Puebla

We stayed at an Airbnb in the historic district, and we really found the city to be quite walkable in this area. Really most of what a visitor would like to see is in this area. We only used a driver when we had to go to a pharmacy for our COVID test (it was much less expensive here than at the ones near the zócalo) to return to the US and to go to the bus station.

There are buses, taxis, and colectivos if you would like to do that instead.

Things to Do in Puebla

Puebla has a lot of culture, art, and history. It also has an incredible amount of food diversity, and many of Mexico’s most popular dishes originated here.

Food Tour

Obviously, if you know me at all you know I’m going to recommend a food tour. I did the Taste of Puebla tour via Eat Mexico, and I wholeheartedly recommend it! You will likely have more food than you could possibly eat, but the guide was great about making sure I could take the leftovers with me.

Definitely bring a small bag with you so you can carry your leftovers, your water, and anything you may pick up along the way more easily. You can also pay for a reusable bag when you book your tour. I did this and kept it as a souvenir.

The tour guide spoke excellent English and was a great source of info and history about the area. She’s also a foodie and was involved in selecting the locations you’ll be visiting. I don’t remember seeing another foreigner at any of the food places we stopped. You’re truly getting the local experience, and all of the food was absolutely amazing.

They suggest you don’t eat breakfast before the tour, and I absolutely agree with this recommendation. I could only eat a snack when it was time for dinner as I was still full. This isn’t a tasting tour. You get full-sized servings.

I also appreciated getting an email after the tour listing the places we visited as well as the foods we ate.

Eating

While you’re in Puebla, I’m going to strongly recommend you stop for a meal at El Mural de los Poblanos. I would say this is one of my favorite restaurants I’ve visited all over the world. The service, ambiance, and food were all five stars! Incredibly flavorful food.

Another place we really enjoyed was Maiz Criollo. Not only was their food good, but their menu had many unique offerings that you simply don’t see elsewhere.

Culture & History

Puebla is a city of churches. You’ll find a different one on almost every corner, and each one is very different with its own personality. There are some definite standouts, though.

The cathedral located at the zócalo is definitely worth your time. As is common with older churches, the outside can seem quite humble and the inside can amaze you. Puebla’s 16th-century cathedral is absolutely phenomenal.

Nearby you’ll also find the Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús. While this one isn’t as ornate as some of the others in the area, it has a vibe that just really stood out for me. It had a sense of peace that I enjoyed. Right outside is a small plaza, and during my visit I could hear a celloist which just added to the whole experience.

An absolute must-see is the Templo de Santo Domingo and its Capilla del Rosario. They did charge 20 MXN (about $1 USD in 2021) to enter the capilla, and it’s absolutely worth it! I would’ve been fine if they had charged even more. It was just stunning! Once in Puebla, you will want to double check their hours as they had limited times they were allowing visitors. Also with COVID precautions, you will likely have to wait in a line by the gate. Again, it’s totally worth it.

If you enjoy art and antiques, you’ll want to visit Callejón de los Sapos (Alley of the Toads) and the Barrio del Artista. These are both historic parts of the city. The callejón was an area near the river that used to run through the city, and people often had to deal with toads in their homes and buildings, so the area was known as “the toads.” Nowadays it’s full of shops and lots of color and life.

Near the zócalo, you’ll also want to visit the Biblioteca Palafoxiana. This library was founded in 1646 and is recognized by UNESCO as being the first and oldest public library in the Americas, and it is quite the sight!

Another great spot to see and absorb local culture is the Mercado de la Acocota. If you do the food tour I mentioned above, one of your stops will be here.

While out and about, make sure to look up and on the sides of buildings as there are a lot of impressive street art and murals.

A lot of people recommended nearly Cholula as a place to visit while in Puebla. We got hit with a GI bug so didn’t have time to also visit here. The Museo Amparo was also highly recommended, but we didn’t have time to visit.

Incidentally, if you get hit with Montezuma’s revenge, a pharmacist recommended a med called Nineka. It was like magic and worked beginning with the first dose. I rarely ever have this problem, but it’s now part of my travel kit because it was so darn effective. I only wish I had asked about this earlier!

If your next destination requires a negative COVID test, we found Farmacias del Ahorro to be great! They were inexpensive, fast, and thorough.

As our current departure time grew closer, I was checking out their alert levels. CDMX was at orange which was promising, but Puebla was still having lots of challenges. Tigger and I discussed it, and we felt like even if Puebla remained in orange it was worth going. Thankfully, by the time we got there, both places were in green which was a big relief.

I’ve been to CDMX twice before, but only for an extremely short time. When I was a teen on a road trip with a family, we stopped there to get a brake line fixed on their car. The next time was only a trip from the airport to the bus station so we could head to San Miguel. Neither of us are big city fans, with rare exceptions, but I really wanted to at least have some time there. So we planned on staying in Mexico City for about 5 days, heading to Puebla for a week, and returning to CDMX for a couple of nights before returning home.

Late October is a great time to visit the city. Daytime temperatures are quite comfortable, there is plenty of sunshine, and it gets chilly at night. A great combination in my book.

If you need phone service or data while traveling here, you may want to check out this travel eSIM for Mexico.

Do be aware that CDMX is at a high altitude, so if you’re sensitive to that you’ll want to give yourself some time to adapt before planning activities requiring a lot of movement. Being at high altitude also requires that you drink more water than what you may be used to as you lose more hydration with respiration.

Areas to Stay

The city is huge so there are a ton of options. Initially, we stayed in an Airbnb place in the Condesa neighborhood. For the most part, we really enjoyed this area, and I also explored nearby Roma. On our return trip, we stayed in the Las Suites hotel in the Polanco area.

Condesa and Roma are really great options. They tend to be calmer areas of the city in terms of crowds and traffic, yet they are well connected with public transportation. Condesa was a really great location for exploring by foot. We were able to easily walk to Chapultepec, the Museo Nacional de Antropología (anthropology museum), the Ángel de la Independencia, etc.

These areas also had some lovely parks, greenways, and a good diversity of restaurants and cafes. The area does feel a bit more “yuppie” which may not be what some people are hoping for while staying in Mexico. After having visited some of the busier areas of the city, though, I was always grateful to return to this more calm environment.

Getting Around

Being such a large city, there are many options for getting around. Depending on the time of day, buses, metros, etc., can be quite packed and leave you feeling like you’re a sardine. Many of the options have an area designated for women and children (12 and younger). On the metro, they have these areas available during the rush hours. On some of the buses, you’ll see the areas separated by colors on the rails. Yellow is for general seating, pink is for women and children. The signs aren’t always clear, and I discovered this at a bus stop when a police officer was motioning through a window for me to move. I didn’t understand what was going on since I was the only person sitting in this section, and a fellow passenger explained. That’s when the colored railings made sense to me, and I finally spotted the very small blue sign indicating the zone.

If you plan on using the public transportation system, it’s wise to go ahead and buy the transportation card. Machines are readily available at many of the stops and in the metro. If you don’t speak Spanish, they offer instructions in English. When we were there, the card cost 21 MXN (about 1 USD), and it included 6 MXN which covers your first journey. They’re very easy to refill, and you don’t have to put a lot of funds on them which makes it very handy. The metros often have a ticket booth, but I found that they aren’t always open, so the card is your best bet.

Uber and other similar services are used by many of the locals and make getting around Mexico City a lot easier. I mostly used the app Cabify which tended to be less expensive than Uber, but I would check both apps just in case because sometimes there was quite a difference in fares with Uber being less. You can also reserve a future ride through the app which makes things very easy.

Most of my rides from the historic district back to Condesa were about 6 USD. The metro was only 24 cents (5 MXN), but after walking six or more miles and seeing how packed the metro was, it was worth it to me pay extra.

Sometimes the buses can be faster as some of the routes have their own lanes so they get through the traffic more easily. I would usually check Google Maps to get the estimated travel times by public transportation vs a vehicle, and often there really wasn’t any difference. So it was comfort over cost.

Museums and Churches

There are many museos in CDMX; however, two were significant standouts for us.

Museo Nacional de Antropología: This is definitely a museum you don’t want to come to if you’re already tired of walking. This place is packed full of exhibits, and it is quite large. If you don’t speak Spanish, you’ll want to come with Google Translate or something similar on a device. While some of the major signage was bilingual, most were not, and the small signs explaining individual items, etc., were usually only in Spanish.

If you’re not really feeling up to doing all that, you will still enjoy all the various sights. They cover the various regions of Mexico, and Tigger was quite interested.

Note they are taking COVID precautions quite seriously at the museum. Before entering, they will spray your shirt and take your temperature. In the ticket lines, only one person from the group can stand in the line and go to the ticket window. I had tried to get tickets online, but their site wasn’t working. I sent an email a couple of weeks before our trip, and I still haven’t heard back (over a month).

Templo Mayor: This is located very close to the cathedral in the Zócalo. The museum is located by ruins of an Aztec temple which were rediscovered by accident. Currently, you enter the site by the ruins and walk above and around them before entering the impressive museum complex. I’ll give the same advice here as above for both language and having lots of walking. For me, this was my favorite of all the museums, so if you have to narrow down your choices I’d say this is the one to absolutely make sure to visit.

Cathedral: This church is definitely worth your time if you appreciate old churches. I’ve been to many cathedrals all over the world, and this is one of only a handful which have made me say “Whoa!” out loud upon entering. One of the interesting parts of this building is that you will note different elements. They began work on the church in the late 1500s, and it took about 250 years to complete, so there is a blend of styles.

There are crypts beneath the church which can be visited only during certain hours, and it seems the schedule changes often so if you badly want to visit those, you should contact the office to confirm the current hours.

The admission for each museum was 80 MXN, and the cathedral does not charge.

Templo de Regina Coeli church: Sometimes when walking around you’ll see a church with a very generic exterior. When you peek inside, you are treated to amazing art and views. This church is one of those! Absolutely gorgeous!

Food

It’s hard to go wrong with street food, and you’ll definitely find tons of that throughout the city. If you’re interested in sampling a lot of delicious items, I’d highly recommend the historic center tour through Sabores Mexico Food Tour. When I booked my tour, I noted their website strongly recommended not eating before the tour, and that is not an exaggeration.

Most of the “samples” you try are small- to full-sized plates of food, not just a bite or two. And there are plenty of stops where you’ll be eating and drinking. Almost every single stop was a place a tourist generally wouldn’t know about. In addition to food and drinks, they also stop at some interesting landmarks and historic buildings, so it’s a pretty thorough tour. I could only eat a very light dinner that night because I was still stuffed after the walking tour.

It is a five-hour tour and absolutely worth it.

If you don’t do the tour, one place I would highly recommend is El Gran Cazador which is located inside the Mercado de San Juan. They have a couple of areas to sit. Most of their food lands on the side of “exotic,” and their foods were incredibly flavorful.

Día de Muertos

This has become an internationally-renowned holiday in Mexico. While the main celebration is on November 2nd, the festivities usually begin around October 29th. You will see ofrendas in many locations. The largest collection of sights will be at and near the Zócalo. While in the area, make sure to pick up some pan de muerto at a local bakery. They come in many different varieties and are meant to be eaten or used as an ofrenda.

The parade can be incredible to watch.

Enjoy your time in this enormous city! There is a lot to see, do, and experience.

The more I researched it the more interested I became, and I ended up booking it. Tigger skydived in Hawaii, and she’s a bit of an adrenaline junkie so it took no effort to convince her.

The day starts quite early as we needed to meet the van by a well-known landmark at 5:30 in the morning. Needless to say, this had Tigger especially rethinking the planned trip. It was a half-hour walk from our Airbnb place, so that meant waking up at about 4:30. Ugh!

While in the hangar waiting for people to check in and for the pilots to prepare the balloons, they show videos of other trips as well as safety info. Watching the people looking out over the basket from a high altitude was not helpful for my increasing anxiety.

I could feel my heart beating faster as we walked to the location where our balloon was being prepared. Out of curiosity, I checked my smartwatch’s pulse reading, and I was going at about 110 beats per minute.

I was actually surprised it was that low!

If you aren’t used to climbing stuff, getting into the basket is not a moment of grace. Staff stay nearby to help in case you need it. For those with mobility challenges, they had a ladder.

Once in the basket, my anxiety increased because of the low edge. Didn’t help me feel more secure.

The balloon lifted, and I swallowed hard. As it began rising, I noticed the sun was accompanying us.

The journey began, and suddenly I felt extremely calm. Even looking down and seeing the objects on the ground diminishing in size as we climbed higher didn’t bother me. There was no wind. I felt like I was casually flying, and I reveled in it.

My excitement (the positive kind) grew rapidly as the Pyramid of the Sun (although I later learned that they believe it’s misnamed and was actually dedicated to the deity of water) came into view. I watched in glee as we steadily approached it. The views of the park, the ruins, the valley, etc., caused me to feel absolute glee.

To be able to see the pyramids from the air was absolutely stunning!

The ride usually lasts 45-60 minutes. Ours was near an hour, and I found myself feeling slightly disappointed when they began the descent. I knew I would absolutely do this again and would probably actively seek out other opportunities.

When Tigger asked me how I was feeling, I was truthfully able to say that this had been one of the best moments of my life.

So if you have the chance to do this, I can recommend it 300%.

Things to Consider

• If you go with this company, part of the packet you purchase includes a buffet breakfast at a restaurant. However, consider that you’re being picked up at 5:30 AM and probably won’t be sitting down to eat until around 10. You may want to bring some snacks for before and after as the van doesn’t usually arrive back in CDMX until around 3 PM.
• Make sure to bring your own water. You are able to refill your bottle while in the hangar before and after the flight, but after that it may be tough to find more.
• During COVID restrictions, they have prohibited access to climbing the pyramids. CDMX was in their green light phase for COVID, and they were still not allowing people to climb. Another great reason to go by hot air balloon!
• The pyramid that people used to be able to enter (Temple of Quetzalcóatl) and explore has been closed because they found a huge deposit of mercury which is toxic.
• There is a lot of standing. You won’t be able to sit down from the time you leave the hangar until the time they return. If you need to be able to sit down, check in with them as I believe they’re good about making accommodations.
• If you are a person of bigger size (as in weight), they do charge extra, but it wasn’t a huge amount. Their website clearly denotes that and will ask you for your weight in kilograms upon booking.
• The package includes time to walk around the park and see the pyramids up close. If the COVID restrictions are still in place, you can ask your driver if the group can leave earlier than planned. They plan on a 2-hour visit, but that may be long with the current restrictions. As long as everyone in your group agrees, it isn’t a problem. Really 45 minutes is enough if you can’t climb.
• They do the rides year round. The temps can be quite toasty during the visit to the park with little to no access for shade, so prepare for that as well. The temperature during the balloon ride is about the same as on land.

Have you done a hot air balloon ride? Where did you go, or where would you want to go?

Brunch and Breakfast

We didn’t eat out a lot for this meal, but two of the places we tried were definitely shining stars.

Who Dat Coffee Cafe is just outside the French Quarter, and definitely worth a visit. Sitting outside is a nice treat. Ate here our last morning and wished I had done so earlier so I could come back again.

Ruby Slipper has a great atmosphere as well as food. We ate at the one located in the Marigny neighborhood. Since they can sometimes be busy, we got our food to go. I was pretty impressed with how well they packed the meals, too. They made sure to keep things separate that might make other items soggy, etc. You can get on their waitlist ahead of time, and you can also order online which makes things extra handy. Staff were fun, and it was a chill place so would be worth dining in if you feel up to it.

Traditional Foods

Sometimes people wonder if the world-famous Cafe du Monde is really “all that.” Oh yes! I have heard many people say the beignets from the location in the City Park is the best, but it’s definitely more difficult to get to if you don’t have access to a car. The historical one by the French Market is still darn good and has a fun environment. When there aren’t COVID restrictions, they’re open 24 hours a day, and there is less of a line in the evenings and early mornings. During restrictions, get there when they first open in the morning. I’m not a fan of their coffee (chickory based), but if this is your first visit to NOLA, you should give it a try just for the experience.

Po’boys are a delicious meal and a piece of New Orleans history. I’ve tried different locations, and I’ll definitely say that so far the best I’ve had are at NOLA Poboys. Eating at the restaurant can also be its own experience. It is very laidback, and your “plate” is the covered table. Don’t have to worry about being judged for licking your fingers here!

NOLA is also famous for its oysters. I can’t stand oysters, so when a food tour took the group to Felix’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar I figured I’d just be enjoying my iced tea. However, when they arrived they looked so good I figured I’d give it a taste just because the tour guide was really trying so hard to talk them up—chargrilled oysters with butter and cheese. And she was right! I ate my whole serving.

You’ve probably heard of the muffuletta sandwich. I’ve had them in other places and have never been overly impressed. Until Central Grocery and Deli. The original owner of this place is the one who invented this sandwich, and it was absolutely delicious! Just standing inside the store had my stomach growling because of the wonderful aromas.

Fried chicken isn’t necessarily a New Orleans-specific tradition, but Willy’s Chicken Shack is definitely worth a visit. If it’s hot outside, make sure to treat yourself with one of their frozen cocktails, and you can buy an extra shot or two as well. Don’t forget, in New Orleans you can walk around the city with your cocktail in hand (geaux cup) so feel free to take it with you while you walk around after your meal.

Commander’s Palace

Yes, this place gets its own section because it’s that good. They do have a dress code (mostly for men, but it isn’t overly dressy), and I hate bringing nicer clothes on a vacation. This place is worth it! Not only is the service absolutely impeccable, but the food was amazing!

Some people who haven’t visited the South might be shocked to see turtle soup on the menu. Know that these are local snapping turtles which are plentiful in the swamps. This particular recipe goes back to the late 1800s. It’s worth giving it a try.

You will definitely want to make reservations as it is quite popular. Lunch service is less busy and also offers their famous 25-cent martinis.

The bread pudding souffle is absolutely worth having, even if you don’t typically enjoy this type of dessert.

Other great foods

Dat Dog is another place you’ll want to try. Tigger especially loved their alligator sausage.

Dian Xin is a Chinese restaurant that is really quite good. They have a lot of dishes that are more typical outside of America. Very flavorful. It was actually the best Chinese food we’ve had outside of Asia.

Which are your favorite places to eat in New Orleans?

Why Whitney Plantation?

This is a very unique plantation and museum as it is the only plantation focused on slavery in Louisiana, and one of the few museums of its kind in the world. This is especially significant considering the fact that New Orleans was the capital of the trans-Atlantic slave trade.

Typically, there are guides who share the perspective of life on the plantation from the perspective of the enslaved people. Because of COVID restrictions, however, they are currently not offering that part of the experience. There is a free app (Android, Apple) which you download to your phone which provides text, video, and audio guides at the various stops.

If you forget to download it before your visit, the visitor center does have free WiFi.

Even though I had learned a lot about this time period in school, our experience at Auschwitz really showed how important it is to visit these places. Learning about this horrible time in history from books and movies is one thing.

Reading their stories while you’re standing in the same spot has quite the different impact.

jails

Getting There

Whitney Plantation is located about an hour’s drive from New Orleans. Public transportation isn’t really an option, and while services like Uber and Lyft can get you there, returning will be quite a challenge with that service.

We went with Gray Line. The ticket covers your admission into the plantation and transportation to/from. It was air conditioned and had a very clean bathroom on the bus which was an extra plus. They leave from where the steamboat docks in the French Quarter, so it’s nice and easy.

Their website lists it as a 5-hour experience (because of possible traffic as you near the city on the return). You have about 2 hours to tour the plantation, and that was a good amount of time.

Sugar kettles used to produce refined sugar

What to Bring

When we went, the buses were heading out at noon. This plantation does not have a cafe or restaurant, so we ate our lunch before heading out. There are picnic tables there if you wish to wait, however. They also have some light snacks available for purchase.

Definitely bring water. They had water fountains inside the visitor center so you can refill a reusable bottle. They do have cold beverages for sale as well.

Most of the paths are compact dirt and are flat. They have some misting stations spread intermittently throughout the grounds to help you cool off which was a nice touch.

If you’re sensitive to sunlight, you may want to bring an umbrella or wear a hat since you will definitely have a good amount of sun exposure.

German Coast Uprising memorial

Spots for Deeper Reflection

There is great signage, and the app is wonderful for teaching you about the sites.

We spent a good amount of time at the Wall of Honor. This wall contains the names of enslaved people known to have lived there. Also included are stories from those were enslaved. These first-person narratives were gathered as part of the WPA Federal Writer’s Project. Definitely take the time to walk along and around the wall to see the names and learn more about their life.

The memorial for the German Coast Uprising was also quite powerful. The slaves who took part in this “rebellion” were executed. Some of them had trials which were really only ceremonial. The juries were usually plantation owners. After their executions, their severed heads were lined along the river for 60 miles as a warning to others.

Field of Angels memorial

The Field of Angels is a memorial to the enslaved children who died in the St. John the Baptist parish (a county in Louisiana) between 1823 and 1863. In this time period, there were 2200 children who died in this parish. And likely that number was higher. Of those, 39 died at Whitney Plantation. Most of these children were younger than 5 years old.

Note: When visiting the German Coast Uprising and the Field of Angels memorials, they may appear differently than shown in these photos. We came shortly after a special event. Here was info I received from the museum after our visit:

“We hold an annual blessing of the grounds that is conducted by Vodun practitioners. This belief system is from the regions where Africans who were captured and sold in the Americas continued to practice in the Americas. We honor their memory using their traditions. (On the North American continent, this belief structure evolved into what many people know as Hoodoo.)

“Specific offerings—food, money, alcohol, tobacco—and the incorporation of specific colors (used to honor and acknowledge specific Oguns who are responding to the appeals of the ancestors who are communicating to them on our behalf) are used during these ceremonies.”

It is so important we visit these historical places. We must never forget!

The Geography

One of the most fascinating things about the state is just how high it lies above sea level. This can be a huge surprise for out of state residents. If you’ve never done much traveling at the higher altitudes, be prepared for a change in how you do things as you go about your time here. For example, when walking, etc., take it easy as your body adjusts to the altitude. You don’t want to strain your lungs and leave the place gasping for breath. Even at relatively lower levels in all parts of the state, it can be hard to do anything more strenuous than climb a single flight of stairs until you have been fully acclimated.

Enjoying the Summer in Colorado

When people think of summer, they typically think of mosquitoes, days of enervating humidity, and constant, unending heat. That’s one of the many marvelous things about heading off to Colorado in the summer. As the state lies so high above sea level, it means a bug-free summer. It also means much cooler temperatures than many parts of the country. Not only that but unlike more coastal areas, the state is mercifully free of intense humidity. There’s no sweating constantly, even when it’s not that hot out.

Summer in this part of the world also means endless chances to be part of nature. A concert at the Red Rocks Amphitheater is a must for every music lover. If a show is not your thing, there are also activities like yoga classes you’ll never forget. Summer is when natives make the most of the long days and the mild weather. If you love color, stop by annual summer Hot Air Balloon Rodeo & Art in the Park. Other events like the Top of the World Rodeo and the Coors Light South Platte RiverFest offer a chance to get to know people in the state and have fun.

When Winter Arrives

If winter is an endless chance to appreciate the region’s mild climate, winter is when Coloradans bring their outdoor activities to another level. Colorado is home to some of the globe’s most famous winter playgrounds. Come here and have your pick of incredible facilities. This is a chance to ski the slopes of Vail, plan apres-ski activities in Aspen, snowboard down Steamboat Springs, or just admire the state’s glorious mountains in person. For the winter weather lover, the state is a paradise. Abundant snowfall means there’s always a place to ski and engage in other winter activities. It’s easy to find lots of outdoor activities to do anywhere in the state.

Winter is also when you can explore some of the most untouched places in the country. Rocky Mountain National Park offers secluded trails that lead you to corners rarely seen by many people. Head indoors for a chance to sample some of the best beer in the country. The lively food scene continues all year long with events devoted to showing off local products.

Any trip to Colorado should take many factors into account. The time of year is particularly important. Summer means a chance to be outside in mild weather without the need for bug spray or a blanket of humidity. Winters mean crystal clear days and lots of time to explore the region’s highest peaks and experience exhilarating winter sports. Think about which activities appeal to you most. If you love seeing a country where wide-open spaces are the norm, this is a place you’ll appreciate no matter when you choose to come by.

Thankfully, I used to live fairly close to the Oregon border, so it wasn’t going to be a long drive. If you don’t have that advantage, though, you can often find cheap flights to Oregon.

Lodging

As I wanted to be close to the water, I decided to stay at Comfort Suites Columbia River. On Google Maps, I could see they were next to the riverwalk and the trolley. The room had a refrigerator and microwave, and Safeway was a short walk away, so it looked like it would be a great place to stay.

When I got to my room, I had a rather lovely discovery—A large colony of sea lions is very close by! You could hear them barking even with the windows closed. I was so excited! For some reason, none of the reviews I read made any mention of the sea lions. While I knew there was a marina near the hotel, I hadn’t seen anything that mentioned the colony hangs out there.

Having the windows open made it even more fun. I spent a good amount of time sitting on the little couch by the window just listening to them.

Food

Astoria has quite the selection of eateries, and it was a bit difficult deciding where I wanted to eat my first night. However, I had read about a Bosnian restaurant called Drina Daisy. As I was driving around town, I spotted it and decided to go ahead and stop there.

Boy was that the right choice! WOW! I ordered the burek, and it was fabulous! My seat was near the kitchen, and the cook/owner gave me some lamb as she had just cut some. I can highly recommend that as well.

They had a good list of cocktails as well as a decent variety of central and eastern European beers. I saw one that I used to drink while living in Prague, and I just couldn’t resist ordering that.

During the weekend, I also decided to hit up a place some readers had suggested. It’s called Bowpicker Fish and Chips, and it has an unusual presentation: The food is served from an old fishing boat. There are a couple of picnic tables you can sit at to enjoy your meal, but I ended up just eating in my car.

Now, this isn’t your typical fish & chips. They make theirs from locally sourced wild albacore. And it’s freaking delicious! Their chips are also excellent.

Don’t be dissuaded by a long line. They move pretty quickly. Also, make sure to bring cash. They don’t accept cards.

What to See/Do

If you want to see the sea lions up close (and why wouldn’t you?), head to the East Basin Docks. You’ll see the pier you can walk on to get closer to the colony.

The downtown area is kind of fun to walk around, especially if you like shopping for antiques and tchatchkes.

Some people had recommended the Columbia River Maritime Museum (which is conveniently across the street from Bowpicker), but I didn’t visit during this trip.

While driving around one day, I saw signs for the Astoria Column. I was intrigued so decided to stop there. Even if you’re not really that interested in seeing the column, go there for the scenic view! That alone was worth the uphill drive. Even if you don’t have a lot of sunshine, you won’t be disappointed. It’s amazing how much you can see.

If you’ve brought kids along, this is also a great place to just let them run around. It has a park-like feel which really invites you to just sit down and attempt to soak up all of what you see. There are also some picnic tables and would be a great picnic spot.

I wanted to go inside the column and go to the top where the views are even more amazing, but my knees had other plans. So I can’t really say much about that part of the column’s attractions. The column, though, is covered by fascinating artwork displaying the history of the area. Even if you aren’t really into history, I found the artwork alone to be a great experience.

There is no fee to enter the park or column, but they do charge $5 for parking. You can pay with a card if you need, but it will be a lot easier for you if you pay in cash. If you don’t live far away from Oregon, keep the parking ticket they give you as it’s good for 1 year.

Note they’re open daily except on Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Of course, if you have time and haven’t been to Seaside and Cannon Beach, they’re not far away either. You can also cross the Astoria–Megler Bridge which is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. This will take you to Washington, and the fantastic beach of Longview is a reasonable and pretty drive from Astoria.

Astoria has its own merits for sure, and it’s also a great base if you want to see more of Oregon and southern Washington.

Have you been to Astoria? What did you think about it?