Dollhouse Miniature Furniture - Tutorials | 1 inch minis

1 inch scale French chaise tutorial - How to make a 1 inch scale French chaise from card stock.

2013-06-15T22:03:00.001-05:00

This is the project for this month. This French chaise is made from card stock, foam core and mat board. You could trim off the front of the chaise and make a chair.

The chaise in front, the one with the patterned fabric is a little longer than the pattern included. It was my prototype for the blog and I felt the chaise needed to be a little shorter. The length is up to you if you want to change it.

Below are the patterns. On the left side of the blog is a listing, "Things to do, Things to see", in this listing is a post, "HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS"; please use these directions to print the patterns out to the correct size.

For a form for the back I used the top of a solid are freshener container.

(The other line you see is from my first attempt. The chaise was too small.)

Measure down from the small end 2 1/8 inches. Make marks all around and then fill in to make a solid line all around.

Cut out your back pattern and trace it onto a piece of card stock.

Mark a center line on the front.

Cut the back out, don't cut on the line this time. Leave extra card stock all around.

Spread wood glue on the back of your back.

Place the first back onto card stock and press all of the glue out. Cut these 2 backs out, again don't cut on the line, yet.

Spread glue on the back you just cut out and place it onto another piece of card stock.

Press all of the glue out and make sure you have all 3 layers glued together well.

Now, you cut the back out following the line.

Mark a center line on the back of the back, too.

With the glue still wet bend the back around the air freshener and secure with a rubber band or two.

(I like these rubber bands. I get them when I buy fresh broccoli.)

Leave this to dry. This piece needs to be stiff when we begin to work with it. If you do this first thing in the morning you should be able to work with it after lunch.

While the back is drying cut out your base pattern and trace it onto 1 layer of 3/16 inch thick foam core.

Mark a center line on the base.

Cut the base out.

Cut the back frame pattern out.
You can trace this onto card stock, 6 times or you can copy it using your computer printer. I ran out of ink so I traced mine 6 times.

Cut out the back frames.

Mark centers on one side of each frame.

Set these aside until the back is dry and stiff.

I know there are machines that scrap bookers use to cut shapes out. This pattern piece is a good candidate for this machine.

THIS IS OPTIONAL

I have traced the outside edge of the back frame onto card stock.

I am making marks all around the inside edge of the traced line. I am measuring 3/32 inch away from the outside line.

When I am done measuring and making the marks I fill in by drawing a solid line.

I am going to make two of these to add to the back of the chaise.

This will add more surface interest. I did not do this on the shabby chic chaise, I did it on the gold one. You can look at the pictures at the end of the blog to see what both styles look like.

In this picture I have glued, using wood glue, three pieces of mat board together and have it clamped to dry. This is for the legs, I am going to use my scroll saw to cut out the six legs. Six legs are an option, you may want to just use 4. If you scroll down you find a picture showing the unfinished chaise with 4 legs. I like 6 so I am using 6.

If you are using a craft knife you will need to trace the leg onto mat board 18 times, 12 times if you are using only 4 legs. I know, that's a lot of tracing. You could copy the leg pattern onto paper using the printer and glue the paper onto the mat board and then cut out the leg pieces. This will take time, but I think it's worth it. Take your time, take a break and come back to it.

I have the six legs traced.

I am about to cut out the legs and I thought I would show you my scroll saw.

These really make good Christmas presents. And . . . if you have one of these you could use 3/16 inch thick bass wood instead of 3 layers of mat board.

My legs are cut out. I want the glue to dry more on these because I will be sanding off the square edges later.

If you have your 18 legs cut out you now have to glue them together. Use wood glue and press them together tightly. Let them dry.

Wipe a little glue along the edges of the legs, too, this will help seal the paper.

Take a break and let the glue dry, it's best not to rush this process.

When the back is stiff take it off the form (top of air freshener container) and place it onto the base matching center lines. I know I don't have one drawn, but you do!

Straighten and shape the sides.

Use wood glue to glue the outside back frames on. I begin with gluing the center first.

Don't skimp on the glue, the glue will wet the card stock and let you ease the back frame into place, whether you have to stretch or move the frame around a bit. The outside of the back is getting bigger with every layer of card stock and all of the frames are cut the same size. This works for me so I don't make any changes to the size of the frames.

Be sure to press the card stock together tightly when you have the frame in place, this is important for the final look. Wipe the glue off the edges.

Keep a wet rag close and keep your fingers clean. Glue on the fingers will make the card stock back frame stick to you.

I have the 3 outside back frames glued onto the back of the back.

For the inside frames I found that if I cut the center bottom out it was easier to fit the frame into the back.

With every layer of card stock the inside is getter smaller so we will have to compress the frames a bit.

In this picture you can see that I haven't yet discovered that cutting out the center back helps a bit.

You may also have to cut the arm section because there will be too much frame to fit.

I've cut the card stock back frame.

I've cut the trimmed off the tiny bit of extra and glued the ends down. Continue gluing until you have all 3 frames on the inside of the back.

Don't forget to be pressing the edges together tightly.

Here are the OPTIONAL extra pieces that I am going to glue onto the top of the outside of the back.

I have cut the optional pieces out.

I've glued the optional pieces onto the outside of the back.

Here are all of the layers of card stock glued together with wood glue.

I hope you have tried to keep all of these edges neat and even.

This is the back ready to be glued onto the base.

The top of the center back has a little place that you could glue on some decoration. I am using a heart punch for mine.

I used 3 layers of card stock for the hearts.

Glue the back onto the base and hold with a rubber band.

Straighten and shape the arms.

Please let this dry before you go onto the next step.

This is a side view of the assembly.

When the glue in the legs is dry you can sand off the sharp edges using 180 grit paper.

If any paper starts to come off or come apart glue it back on or back together and set that leg aside and start to sand another leg.

Yes, this is tedious. Yes, you could use bass wood and you wouldn't have to worry about the mat board coming apart, but you would also have to have a scroll saw. Wooden cabriole legs are available from Hobby Builders, on their on-line store, but they are too long to use. You would have to sand the sharp edges of off them, too. When these mat board legs are sanded, sealed and painted you can't tell that they aren't wood.

This is the picture of the chaise with 4 legs.

When the glue has dried on the back and base you can glue the legs into the notches. DRY FIT THE LEGS AND TRIM THE NOTCHES IF NEEDED.

If you want 6 legs you will have to cut 2 more notches in the base.

Cut the notches, dry fit the legs and if they fit glue them in.

I like the chaise with 6 legs.

Just a note here, but you could cut off the front of the base and make a chair out of this pattern, also.

This is the front of the shabby chic chaise.

First, I cut strips of card stock the thickness of the base and glued this on the base to cover the foam core.

Next, I punched out a heart for the center and cut a narrow strip of card stock to fit all around the base of the chaise.

For the gold chaise I am going to add a half circle at the center front of the chaise.

I used my circle template to draw the half circle.

The strip of card stock is the thickness of the foam core.

I glued on the strip of card stock to cover the foam core edge. This card stock strip goes all the way around the chaise. You will probably have to use a couple of pieces get the length you need.

I've cut another strip of card stock to be glued along the bottom of the first strip. I've also added a heart in the center.

Measure the thickness of the back and cut a strip of card stock that measurement.

Glue the strip to the edge of the back to cover the layers of card stock.

You've just built a French chaise. You probably feel like lying on one now!

I spray the chaise with a clear varnish, I use Krylon satin. Give the chaise a couple of coats, letting the coats dry between. I concentrate on the legs, don't go and get them drippy, just make sure they are well covered.

After the varnish is dry I sanded the legs with 220 grit paper. I also sanded anywhere else that I thought needed smoothing such as seams,wrinkles and edges I wanted to take the sharp edge off of. You can add a little glue to the seams to fill in, spray and sand.
If you think you need another coat or two and more sanding you can do that. You need a smooth surface to start the painting process. Take your time here and look closely.

Some of you might be looking around my room and wondering what that is under the window that's covered up with the yellow checkered tablecloth. That's my Passap knitting machine. I used to be quite a machine knitter. I wrote for a magazine for 6 years and authored 2 books. I don't use it much anymore, I love doing miniatures just tooooo much. I mention this because of the little afghan on the shabby chic chaise. I knit the afghans on that knitting machine.

Tigger has joined us for a bit. Her brother, Digger, has been on the blog before.

I painted the chaise gold. You could just as easily spray the whole thing gold, too.

I sanded and painted a few times to get a smooth finish. Again, take your time and give it all a good look before you go on.

Check out February 15, 2010, "How to make 2 fancy faux finishes", for another way to finish in gold.

When I was satisfied with the surface I sprayed the chaise with the Krylon satin to finish.

For this chaise I painted on a little brown paint to dull the gold a bit. For the shabby chic chaise I used the same brown but added a little glaze so I could wipe it off. I found that the spray varnish kept the paint from sticking, too. This is all an experiment. When you are done spray the chaise with the varnish again.

Use your cushion base pattern to trace onto 2 pieces of mat board the cushion base.

Glue the 2 layers together and let dry. You may want to clamp them together.

If you have a scroll saw glue the mat board together first then cut out the pattern.

Cut a strip of Thermolam Plus, I talked about this in the "Make and upholster a 1 inch scale chair" tutorial. I buy it at JoAnn's, I have found it in the fabric department at Wal-Mart,too.

Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the edge of the cushion base, only in the "leg" area, not past the notched area that is the seat. Trim off the extra even with the mat board.

I am using a "pain in the neck fabric". It will get glue spots, it will be hard to glue and it will be hard to ease around corners, but I thought it would look good with the gold and it was a remnant for only a $1.00.

Cut a strip of your fabric and cut some notches to help you get around the end of the chaise.

We will be using tacky glue for the upholstery.

Glue the fabric onto the cushion base. There should be a little extra fabric past the notches into the seat area.

Cut more notches on the other side of the strip of fabric and glue it down to the cushion base.

Trim off extra fabric in the seating area and glue the ends down leaving little "ears" of fabric. I apply glue inside these "ears" of fabric.

I trim off the "ears".

Glue the cushion base into the chaise. I have it clamped.

Use the back frame pattern to make the pieces needed to apply fabric onto for the outside and inside upholstery.

You are going to make the pieces for the inside back just like you made the back using 3 layers of card stock glued together.

Trace the pattern, rough cut out and glue onto a second layer of card stock, rough cut out and glue onto the third layer of card stock. Following the lines of the pattern cut the 3 layers out.

Cut the center back out and place it onto the form and secure with a rubber band. Let this dry.

Cut the side pieces out and set them aside for now.

Trace the pattern again for the outside pieces and cut them out. You will only need one layer of card stock for these.

You will need to fit and trim these pieces to allow for fabric and trim. I left at least a 1/16 inch all around.

I am showing the arm piece.

For gluing fabric onto card stock I use glue stick.

Don't use too much on fabric that shows glue spots, this will show, too.

Apply the glue stick to the card stock and press the card stock onto the fabric.

Cut notches all around.

Use the tacky glue to glue the extra fabric to the back of the card stock.

Glue the center back piece onto the outside of the back.

The trim will fill in the extra space.

This is the piece for the arm, glued to the card stock with notches cut.

Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric to the back of the card stock.

Glue onto the side of the chaise.

When the inside pieces are dry enough to work with you will have to trim them to fit. Leave at least a 1/16 inch all around.

I've left a 1/16 inch all around.

Trim the pieces for the arms, too.

Cut out the pattern for the center back Thermolam Plus pattern.

Use it to cut the first layer, cut the second layer a little larger.

Spread tacky glue all over the card stock piece and press the first layer, second layer and finally another piece that covers the whole center back. Trim off the extra Thermolam Plus even the edge.

A Note: December 16, 2011, "How to make a no-sew mattress and box spring", this shows how to tuft and you might want to apply this to the center back of the chaise.

Cut a piece of fabric larger than the center back. Cut notches in the extra fabric.

I start by gluing the bottom onto the back of the card stock.

Glue the rest of the fabric around the back, easing it in, smoothing out the folds.

Glue the center back into the back of the chaise.

I only use 2 layers of Thermolam Plus for the arms. I start with a small square in the center.

Spread tacky glue all over the arm and press the small square on first then press another piece to fit the whole arm.

Trim off the extra Thermolam Plus even with the edge of the card stock.

Cover the arm piece just like you did the center back and glue the arms into the chaise.

Cut out the seat cushion pattern and DRY FIT into the chaise.

Make adjustments if needed to the pattern before you use it to cut out the foam core.

Trace the seat cushion pattern onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out.

Dry fit the seat cushion into the chaise. Make adjustments if needed.

I use 4 layers of Thermolam Plus for the seat cushion.

On the pattern you will see a line drawn on half the pattern. This line is for the first layer, you will have to make a pattern for the first layer. The pattern I gave you is for the second layer.

Cut out the first 2 layers of Thermolam Plus.

Spread tacky glue all over the seat cushion foam core and press the first layer on, the second layer and a third layer that covers all of the seat cushion.

Trim the extra Thermolam Plus even with the edge of the foam core.

The fourth and final layer will be glued under the foam core in the leg area and at the back. This fourth layer is not glued on the seat's side.

Cut notches around the end of the cushion.

Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the form core.

Notch the back of the Thermolam Plus.

Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the foam core at the back.

I do apologize for using the name of this stuff so often, but if I switch to using a substitute like "fleece", that could be mistaken for many different things.

Here is the seat cushion ready to be covered with fabric.

Cut fabric to fit the cushion with extra to be glued around and under.

Cut slashes into the notches at the end of the seating area.

Do you see the traces of red fabric on the end of the seat cushion? Got it all covered and what did I find? A glue spot! Had to rip it off. Keep a wet cloth next to you, wipe your hands. There is always stray glue lurking at the side of a finger nail to ruin your upholstery.

I began covering the seat cushion by gluing the leg sides to the foam core.

To keep me from pulling the fabric down to the bottom when I begin gluing the bottom, I glued a small bit of the back to the form core.

You naturally pull the fabric when you are gluing around the curve, gluing the fabric to the back will stop that.

Start gluing the end. This fabric isn't cooperating and I am going to leave it for now and come back when I have everything else glued. Maybe I can get the folds out.

I wish I had you all here.
Especially, when gluing around curves you want to keep pulling the fabric down. All you are doing is adding more bulk, creating more folds. The best corners are the ones where the least amount of fabric is used. When I come back I will cut out some more of the fabric. For right now I want the fabric to set up with the glue.

Apply tacky glue to the notch and press the fabric down to it.

Apply tacky glue in the "ears" and press the fabric together.

Another view.

I've got both of the "ears" glued and I am now putting glue onto the fabric at the corner of the back. I also will apply tacky glue to the side.

There's the glue.

I've pressed the fabric together and glued the sides.

I then trimmed the fabric out of the corner.

I'm adding a little more glue to the notched area "ears".

I've trimmed out the fabric. If you have fabric that doesn't ravel you can trim the "ears" off flat, even with the foam core. My fabric ravels.

Can you see at the corner back where I've glued the corners down?

I've gone back to mess with the end. This will have to do and I will hope the trim will cover most of the folds.

You might ask, "Why didn't you cut a strip of fabric for boxing?" I tried, but my fabric ravels and I would have to glue the edge to stop that. Oh, my fabric hates glue, too. Turning a hem would make the boxing out of scale. Keep out of the remnants, Kris.

I HAVEN'T glued the seat cushion in, yet. It's just setting there.

I am going to make twisted embroidery floss trim. I don't know if you all know how to do this, but I am going to explain it anyway.

For the picture I have the six strand floss taped to my table and I am twisting it. How much? This you will have to experiment with. You can use the six strands or use less strands.

With your other hand hold the floss in the middle and fold the end you are twisting back to the taped end. The floss will naturally twist the opposite direction and hold the twist.

This little drill is available from Hobby Builders. I bent a nail and put it in the end so I could tie on the floss. I tie the other end of the floss to a hook I have screwed into my cabinets near my table. This is what I use to twist the floss with.

This takes experimentation to get used to how much to twist but I am sure you will get on to it.

The folded middle sometimes isn't usable. You have to glue the floss before you cut or it will unwind.

This can be heart break time, keep your fingers clean, wipe them off. You'll be pressing the trim on and get a little extra glue on the side of a finger, then you'll pick up your chaise to turn it around and you will have left glue behind. Oh, you probably won't know right then but you'll find it. . . . .

Start gluing the floss on. I have a tutorial on piping if you want to make piping for your chaise, April 14, 2010, "How to make piping for pillows". I also have a tutorial for pillow with a ruffle, March 17,2011, "How to make a dollhouse pillow with ruffle".

The floss is glued on the inside and outside of the chaise.

I glue the floss or piping onto my seat cushions before I glue the cushions into my furniture.

I have glued the floss onto the seat cushion and have glued the seat cushion into the chaise.

There they are.

It took me about 2 days to complete a chaise. I was an intense 2 days, lots of gluing! I hope you try this out. Even when I look at the piece it blows my mind that it's only paper.

As always,

Have fun, Expand on it, make it better . . . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

TTUL Kris

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

2013-06-10T15:51:00.001-05:00

Thank you for all of your well wishes!! When I was able to get on-line I made sure I stopped by to read the new ones, it made me feel so good.

I will be posting a tutorial this month. It's a biggie, something I've been kicking around for awhile and I finally had the time to try it out. I am quite satisfied with the results, I hope you will be, too.

Sincerely,
Kris

Sorry

2013-05-10T14:35:00.002-05:00

I am sorry to have to disappoint you all this month. I am dealing with a case of the shingles and it's taking it's toll on me.
I will try and be back with you in June.
Kris

UPDATE ON THREAD

2013-04-16T14:48:00.000-05:00

As of this date I see a come back of waxed cotton cord. This is found in some beading departments of crafts stores and beading stores.
The book I purchased for making wicker is from the Nutshell News Plans Service, An Accent on Wicker, by Madelyn Cook written in 1983. In it it called for Mac 27 waxed cotton macrame choker line. I bought this book in the 1990s and couldn't find this stuff. The miniature wicker artisans were using waxed linen from Ireland by then.
I was at Michaels and found the waxed cotton cord in the beading department. They had a small amounts wound on card board and then I found a small ball in a tan color. This ball of waxed cotton cord in not nearly a waxed as the linen but I think would work well. It won't fuzz up and will take spray paint well.

Yes, I order my waxed linen from Royalwood, too, gotten expensive, though.

COVERED PEDESTAL TUTORIAL - How to make a 1 inch scale covered pedestal for cakes and treats.

2013-04-15T17:16:00.001-05:00

This is a picture of a covered pedestal from a catalog that I thought would make a good blog tutorial.

For our "glass" cover I used tops from bottles of hair spray and a gumball machine toy container.

Find the right size circle for the plate part of the pedestal in your circle template.

In the next few pictures I will be showing how to make the pedestal from scratch. If you have a game piece or something else you can use for the pedestal go ahead.

Trace a circle for the plate onto mat board.

Trace 3 more circles for the pedestal onto mat board.

I also marked the quarters and drew lines so I could find the center of the circles later.

**This is were your creativity comes in. This is my version, I picked the sizes. When you make yours you decide what size circles and how many you want.**

I cut the circles out using scissors.

I have an extra circle in the mix, I decided not to use it.

Sand the edges of all the circles. I used 180 grit, use what you have on hand.

When you have the circles sanded glue them together, I used yellow carpenter's glue.

I am using an 1/8" dowel for the center post. 1/8" dowels are usually available from the lumber department at the big box stores.

Again, this is a choice you can make for the diameter of the center post.

I cut the center post 5/8" long.

I try to cut down on the fuzz I created when I sanded the edges by applying a coat or two of acrylic finish.

Let this dry.

Using a large pin, mark the center of the center post.

I am using the Dremel today for drilling holes.

To make the drilling easier you can use a small bit first and graduate up to the diameter of a tooth pick.

I have my hole drilled and I will dry fit the tooth pick before gluing.

I glued the tooth pick in with carpenter's wood glue.

Mark the center of the top circle with a large pin, I am using a "T" pin.

Drill a hole for the tooth pick to fit into.

Measure and cut the dowel 1/8" extra. This extra will be glued into the pedestal's foot.

Dry fit, you might have to sand the tip of the tooth pick a bit to help it fit into the hole.

Glue the tooth pick into the mat board.

I have just set the plate part onto the center post, it's not glued, yet.

I am estimating where I want to cut off the plastic top.

I've marked where I want to cut.

For brittle plastic I score a line with the craft knife and just keep scoring or scraping until I'm through the plastic.

I've gotten out my little collection of scissors that cut decorative edges. I even have a ancient pair of pinking shears.

I am going to use the scallop scissors.

I cut an edge with the scissors.
I measure 1/8" from the rounded top of the scallop and cut a strip.

I glued the edging onto the edge of the mat board plate.

I was lucky with this one, it went around and matched up!

You can also glue this strip pointing up. You are the designer, the choice is yours.

I am going to make a bead on the center post. I've shown this before when I made the bed from card stock.

I have my ruler laying diagonally at the paper's edge. I cut the strip. I am using the 8.5 end of a 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper.

You can try different lengths and widths for different shapes and sizes of beads.

I have glued the paper around the center post.

You can use tacky or carpenter's glue.

I don't like to butt glue anything together. The mat board plate is only 1/16" thick and really isn't worth drilling through.

With that said, butt glue the plate to the center post and let it dry completely.

These are bead caps. They are jewelry findings. You can usually find them in the beading department.

I am going to use the smallest bead cap for this top. I've also chosen an oblong gold bead.

Mark the center of the top with a large pin or "T" pin.

For connecting the bead and bead cap to the top I am going to sand down a tooth pick.

Yes, I could use a head pin, that's also from the beading department. I find I have more luck with the glue sticking to the wood rather that the metal of the head pin. The choice is up to you.
If you use the tooth pick you will have to sand down to the diameter of the holes in the bead cap and bead.

I am dry fitting my knob together.

You could also make a knob from punching out shapes and gluing them to a tooth pick as I have with this top.

I am marking where I want to cut off the extra tooth pick.

I've cut the extra off.

Dry fit your bit of tooth pick. You may need to drill out the hole in the top.

My knob is a little obscured by my background, isn't it?

Got it all together.

I've mixed some wood glue with my paint.

My rule of thumb is add glue, but don't add so much as to change the color of the paint.

I'm working with white . . . .

I used a tooth pick to drape the glue/paint mix onto the center post and down to the mat board, blending the two together.

I also did the same thing at the top to help that butt joint.

I also covered the bead's paper lines.

You might have to do this a couple of times depending how much glue you had in the paint.

Wait until this glue/paint mix dries before you paint the rest of the pedestal. If the glue/paint mix only has a "skin" on it you can damage it with your paint brush.

I've painted this pedestal white.

I am going to add some gold to the edges and maybe a band or two.

Here is the finished covered pedestal. Too bad I don't have a cake baked!!

I played with making a couple of more using the gumball machine containers.

I think they are a little large, they make a great statement, though. They would be good in a commercial setting like a bakery.

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . .

Just keep making minis!!

Kris

HOW TO MAKE A FAUCET PLANTER - How to make a 1 inch scale faucet planter and daisies.

2013-03-20T17:01:00.000-05:00

I have to thank Mary, my friend, for tearing this from a catalog. She thought it would be perfect for a blog tutorial and she was right.

Please refer to "HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS" It's the post before this one and I have also listed in the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left. I find it very easy to do. You will want to print this out onto card stock. You will need to print out 2, I am sorry but I forgot to draw 2 of the little "ears" that hold the handle onto the bucket.
Jess also has a very good tip on piping, so take a look.

I've been asked how do I go about making the slanted side containers. I will attempt to show you, but it's still trial and error on size.

I begin with a compass.

I open the compass and draw an arc.

I have removed the compass and I have taken a picture of the mark where the compass' point was. Make sure you've left that mark, you are going to put the point back into it.

This little bucket is a 1/2 inch tall. Measure from the arc you just drew a 1/2 inch and make a mark.

Re-set your point into the original spot. Move the compass to the new pencil mark. Draw another arc.

If you just move the point of the compass back a 1/2 inch and draw another arc the arcs won't have parallel lines.

Cut out your pattern. I find the tricky part is getting the angle of the two ends right. If they aren't just right the container will be higher on one side than the other. This is where the trial and error happens.

But you don't have to do that, I have the patterns for you to copy and use.

Cut out your patterns, you will need 2 of the little "ears" for each side of the bucket.

Run the bucket over the side of the table to make it curve.

This is what you should have when you've finished.

Use yellow carpenter's glue or wood glue to glue the side together, overlap to the line.

This is the quick and easy way to make a bottom.
Apply yellow carpenter's glue to the bottom of the bucket and set it onto card stock. Let it dry. Cut off the extra card stock when the glue is dry.

This is my way, I guess I think the bucket is going to get a lot of where and tear!

The bottom of the bucket should fit into the 7/16" hole of a circle template.

On card stock trace the 7/16" circle.

Center the 5/8" circle over the 7/16" circle and trace .

Use a stylus or something similar to trace on the 7/16" line.

Cut out your bottom.

Cut small "V" notches around the circle to the inner line.

Bend the notches up.

Dry fit, always dry fit to see if any adjustments need to be made.

Use yellow carpenter's glue to glue the bottom into the bucket.

To add some surface interest glue button hole thread to the top and bottom edges. I used tacky glue for this, but the yellow glue could be used, too.

Button hole thread is thicker and stiffer that regular sewing thread.

Cut out the little "ears" and pierce holes at the dots.

You might want to pierce the hole on something that allows the pin to sink into the hole so the hole is the diameter of the pin, not just the tip of the pin as shown. The wire will fit through more easily.

Use carpenter's glue to glue the "ears" to each side of the bucket. The line should match the top of the bucket.

I am using 26 gauge green paddle wire for the handle.

It's called paddle wire because of the packaging, "they" call the thing the wire in wound on a paddle.

Dry fit the wire into the holes of the little "ears", be careful. Make the holes larger if needed.

I am showing a close up of the label. I buy this at Michael's.

I also have 24 gauge, it's a little larger and it could be used for the handle just as well.

The top of your bucket should be 3/4" in diameter.
Find something on your table that's 3/4" in diameter.
You probably have a glue stick, it's a little large but it will work.

If you have a 3/4" dowel, use it to shape the handle.

To make a holder for your bucket use some sticky wax on the end of a toothpick.

Press the waxed end into the inside of the bucket.

I've painted my bucket and handle red.

I am a copier, feel free to paint your bucket any color you want.

Have some of you bought the miniature garden hose? It has green plastic covered single strand copper wire in it that you can shape. I bought some of this wire years ago from the hardware store made my garden hose and then gave it to my son thinking I would never use it again, huh?

I sent my husband out to the shop for some single strand, plastic or vinyl covered wire and this is what he came back with.

I am choosing this one. It came from house wiring, it's called 14/2. That's the wide, flat, white wire that's in your walls. He took it apart for me. 14/2 means it's 14 gauge and there are 2 strands in it. If you are familiar with this you can use it.

If you go to a hardware store like True Value or Ace, ask for conduit wire, 14 gauge, single strand. One of the big box hardware/lumber stores would have it also.
You have to have a single strand of copper wire, not lots of little strands of copper wire. That won't hold the shape after we bend it. Some of your husbands might have this kind, it's used in automobile wiring. It's not the same thing, we've got to have the single strand.

Cut a length of wire about 3-1/2" long.

I used a little 220 grit sand paper to rough up the surface just a bit. Take the shine off.

This will help the paint and glue to adhere better.

Use the pattern from above to bend your wire to.

Lay your wire on the pattern to make sure you have it right.

This is Tigger, she's Digger's sister. Since they've come to live with us one or both of them are on the table as I work. When they were little they both fit right behind the table saw. Now, they take up most of my free space when they are together.

Do you see the washer at the top of the picture? This is a flat washer, 5/16", that's what you ask for at Ace or another hardware store. The 5/16" measurement refers to the center hole size. The outside diameter is 3/4"
Use your circle template to trace a 5/8", 7/16" and 1/4" circles onto mat board.

Cut out the circles.

Center the circles on top of each other according size, glue them together with yellow carpenter's glue.

I used tacky glue to glue the washer to card stock.
Why did I use tacky? I thought it would stick better.
This is all an experiment, so far, so good.

Trim off the extra card stock.

I filled up the center of the washer with yellow carpenter's glue. I have it a bit overfilled, you do the same.
I'm thinking I want this to dry hard, it's going to have the wire in it. If I use the tacky, the tacky will always stay flexible. If something is flexible, it can flex itself loose and then not be glued anymore.

Use a "T" pin or something similar to mark a center in the top circle.

You see I have my washer in the background. I have "open time", that's the time the glue stays wet enough to still adhere. I want the glue to set up just a bit before I put these two pieces together.

Choose a bit that's the diameter of the wire.

I have the bit on top trying to show you it's diameter compared to the wire's diameter.

Just a note: it's sometimes easier to start drilling with smaller bits and build up to the final size bit.

Drill the hole through the 3 glued pieces of mat board.

Dry fit, adjust the size of hole if needed.

Center the assembly you've just made onto the washer and press together.

There will be glue squeezed out, wipe it off.

Set this aside to dry.

Apply a second coat of paint to your bucket and handle.

I've made daisies before, they are in the tutorial listed as "Floral Arrangement".
I thought I would go over it again.
My punches are not new, so they might not be available anymore. I have found some good punches on www.franticstamper.com. Especially look under Punch Bunch.
I am showing a Fiskars corner punch I use the oak leaves for daisy leaves.

This is a Fiskars border punch that has a good daisy.

I painted some green paper with Delta's Seminole Green for the leaves. I painted a Mr. Coffee coffee filter yellow for the daisies. You don't have to use the coffee filters, it just has a slight texture and I thought it would be nice. A hint on punching coffee filters, double the layers or use plain paper for a second layer when punching. This will make a cleaner punch.

I used the 26 gauge paddle wire for the stems.
I have to mention www.hankypankycrafts.com. Ruth Hanky's site is wonderful for miniature flower supplies. She has the colored paper and paper covered wire in very small gauges. Check her out sometime.

I use florist's foam, it's the kind that is soft and squishy, it's absorbs water. This is for the center of the daisies and to put into the bucket to hold the flowers.

Use needle nose pliers to bend over the tip of your wire. Bend about a 1/16". I have too much bent over here.

Dip the bent end of the wire into tacky glue and press onto the flower.

Insert the end of the wire into some foam and let this assembly dry.

I've punched a bunch of daisies. I always make more than I need. It's nice to have a few extra just in case or for that spur of the moment when you need a little flower arrangement and you have some extra flowers to make it.

I counted the flowers in my bucket and I used 14 out of the 20 I made. I used 10 leaves out of the 20 I made.

Dip the end of the wire into tacky glue and press onto the leaf.
Set this into foam to dry.

Apply a dot of tacky glue to the center of the daisy and attach another flower.

When you do this try to have the petals alternating one another.

Set aside to dry.

Cut off some of the foam, I have cut way too much. This amount would do everybody's daisies.

Tear up, chop up the foam.

Apply a little dot of tacky glue to the center of the daisy and put a small amount of the foam on the glue.

Digger is now on the table.

Digger has decided to try and eat one of my trial and error buckets. He's the destroyer, always has to try to bite everything. I've had to learn to put things away.
By the way the kittens and my rabbit, Ginger, get along very well. I guess since they were introduced when they were small Ginger took up with them.

Now, we are back to the faucet. Be careful with it, it's not entirely dry, yet. Don't knock the base and dislodge the glue joint. Yes, you could leave it overnight, but I didn't and I don't think you will, either.

Cut 1/16" wide strips of paper. You don't have to measure, they just need to be very thin.

Using the tacky because it will grab faster, glue the strips of paper to the top of the wire.
Can you see where I started, try to start there, it's about a 1/8" away from the bend.

I've wrapped the top once. Wrap it another 2 times.

After wrapping the top 3 times you have ended at the tip of the faucet.

To give the faucet a little interest wrap the end a few times with the paper. I lost count how many times I went around. You just want it to be bigger that the rest of the faucet.

I also wrapped around the back end of the faucet, it's the joint where it's connected to the pipe. You could make joints where ever you wanted on the pipe.

I added a few wraps of paper around the bottom, too.

Our friend, the "Q"-Tip.
You might ask, "Why didn't you make the pipe part from a "Q"-Tip?" I tried, it wouldn't bend as sharply as I needed it to.
Cut off the cotton end of the "Q"-Tip.

There should be a hole in the center of the paper stick.
Widen out that hole with a "T" pin.

I have a straight pin on the right side of the picture. Find a drill bit that is the same diameter or a little larger.

I am going to insert this pin into the end of the "Q"-Tip. The pin will have it's sharp point cut off and will be blunt. The hole has to be large enough for the pin to slip in easily.

Drill out the hole.

Dry fit.

Cut off about a 1/16" of the "Q"-Tip stick.

I'm guess-timating on how long I should cut my straight pin.

By the way, I re-cut the "Q"-Tip stick so it was closer to 1/16".

I ended up cutting the pin less than 1/4" long.

Use carpenter's glue to glue the stick onto the top of the faucet.

Mix just enough paint into the yellow carpenter's glue to match the paint color. This mix will be mostly glue.

I used a toothpick to dribble the paint/glue mixture onto the faucet. This blends in the stick and the wrapped paper.

Don't lose your joints, keep the paint/glue mixture thin there.

The original in the catalog said the planter has a "beaded" base. So, I added some paint/glue mixture to the base to make mine "beaded", too.

There are many, many different styles of knobs for faucets and you could use just about anything for your faucet knobs.
I bought this little punch from Michael's . It was in a dollar bin with lots and lots of other punches. I bought a couple more . . . .

I punched 4 flowers from card stock.

I glued them together using yellow carpenter's glue.

Pierce a hole in the center using a "T" pin or something similar.

Pierce on something that allows the pin to go all the way through. The straight pin we cut off is going to go through this hole.

Push the flower/knob onto the pin, don't go all the way to the top. Leave a little space for surface interest. Apply a little glue to this to help it to stay in place.

Stick the pin into the top of the faucet, make sure it goes all the way into the stick.

I mixed up a little paint/glue mixture and dotted some on the petals and on the top of the straight pin.

Look around for some odd piece of jewelry finding or use part of a snap for the faucet knob.

Glue two pieces of card stock together.

Cut the tiniest triangle from this doubled piece of card stock and glue it to the front of the faucet.

Some faucets have this knob there to hold buckets. The original doesn't have this, I think they soldered the bucket on. I didn't like that so I'm doing this.

I dribbled some of the paint/glue mixture onto the little triangle to blend it in.

I've painted the stand red, I will paint it again, let it dry and give it coat of acrylic varnish.

I've put the little "ear" of the bucket onto a piece of foam core and piercing the hole again to clean it out.

I've set my bucket under the faucet and estimated where I should cut my handle off at.

I bent the ends of the handle in.

Insert the ends of the wire into the holes of the little "ears" and bend the wires closed.

Have a trial fit.

Give your bucket a coat of acrylic varnish and let dry.

Cut some foam and glue it into the bucket.

Be careful not to mash the bucket out of shape.

Fill the bucket up.

I am using the original as a guide for my flower arranging.

Dip your stems into tacky glue before you insert them into the bucket.

I've got 5 center flowers in.

Before adding the leaves use your needle nose pliers to bend them back just a bit.

I've added some leaves around the center flowers.

I've have 14 flowers and 10 leaves in the bucket. You could add more.

It's done and I like it.

You could make seasonal buckets of flowers, like mums for the fall. Of course you could use petunias or geraniums, too.
You can paint the stand a different color, it could be aged and rusty.

I hope you give this one a try, Thanks, Mary, for the idea.

As always,

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!!

Kris

RE-SIZING THE PATTERNS

2013-03-20T13:08:00.001-05:00

I want to thank Jess, BeyondBaffled, for explaining a very good way to re-size the patterns that I include in the tutorial.
My explanation is longer, it took me a little while to find everything in Word. Forgive me if I get a little too elementary in my directions.

Right click on the image in the tutorial, a window should appear.
Left click on "copy image".
(No need to close out of the blog, just get into Word.)
Left click on "Paste".
The image should appear on the screen.
Turn on the ruler option. I have Windows 7 and that button is at the right side of the screen, on top of the sliding arrow that moves the content on your paper. It's under the tool bar. That took me a few minutes to find.
Right click on the image, a window should appear.
Left click on "size", another window should appear.
Look for "Scale" in this window. Look for "lock aspect ratio", check the box if it is not all ready checked.
Find "height" and use the arrows to move the percentage up or down.
When you think you have it close, close out of the window.
Now for the rulers. This took me awhile to figure out, too.
To move the image up to the top so it's close to the ruler, move your cursor up to the edge of the paper and your cursor will change into 2 arrows facing each other with the message "double-click to hide white space". Double click and the image will be under the ruler ready to measure.
Now you can go back and forth to change the image's size until you think you have it right.
When you do think it's right, print out a test and put a ruler to it to check.

I tried this out today and it was very easy to do after I found everything. Thank you so much for passing this on, Jess.

By the way Jess sent me a picture of her chair she made from my tutorial and it was beautiful! Good Job!
I hope everyone is reading this because she has another tip, she painted crochet thread to use as piping. The only suggestion she has on this is that she would try to use a larger thread. Very good idea.

I am putting the March tutorial up sometime today . . . .
Kris

Contacting me

2013-03-16T09:13:00.001-05:00

Just a note about contacting with questions. I do like to answer you but I am more likely to answer you if you use my e-mail address rather than just publishing a question in the comments section, especially when you have no return e-mail for me to use. Thanks, Kris

One side has 6 holes and one side has 7

2013-02-17T18:52:00.001-06:00

I explained that we are weaving a closed circle or rectangle, we need an uneven amount of holes. One side has to have 1 less hole, I have to take it from a side, I chose a short side. Kris

1 Inch Scale Wicker Table with Tile Top - How to make a 1 inch scale wicker table with a faux tile top.

2013-02-17T17:18:00.001-06:00

This is the little wicker table we are going to make. I haven't gotten complicated with different weaving techniques, just the standard over and under.

The faux tile top comes from my good friend, Mary. I thought it was so innovative that I wanted to share it with you.

Let's start by cutting a piece of card stock 2 1/4" x 1 1/2".

Did you ever get a 40% off coupon from Michael's and not know what to do with it?
I bought this Martha Stewart punch with one of my coupons. I never used it for what I bought it for. Mary borrowed it for an idea she had.

Mary used a scrap booking paper that represented water, I couldn't find that so I am using this paper. The idea is to get a paper that has subtle to sharp color differences.

You can use any punch you might have that you think would work.

I punched out my squares. Mary used all of the shapes to make a mosaic design. So take a look at your punches and see what you might be able to use. I am going to use just the squares for my tile design.

Mary has such a good eye, she can put things just right, I worry them to death and lose the spontaneity.

I put a tiny dot of white Elmer's glue on the corner of the card stock. I am using white Elmer's so I have time to move the square around to line it up.
Glue six of the squares across the short end of the card stock.

Now, I will begin to glue the squares on the long side.

I glued 9 on the long side of the card stock, counting the beginning corner.

I am randomly choosing squares to glue on, kind of, sorry, Mary. "Turn it lose, Kris"

You can see in the previous picture and this one that I have drawn lines and made tick marks to keep my squares in line.

I'm finished and it didn't take very long.

Square up and trim your tiled card stock.

It looks random, doesn't it?

Cut 2 pieces of mat board the size of your tiled card stock.

Glue the 2 pieces together, you can use tacky glue for this.

Measure 3/32" away from the edge and draw a line around the rectangle.

I have drawn a diagram for you see how many holes are needed for the wire.
When you are weaving in a closed circle or in this case a rectangle you have to have an uneven amount of holes. This table has 39 holes. When you weave something flat, say a head board you have to have an even amount of holes.
I marked where I wanted the holes to be and then made holes with a large straight pin, corsage pin or "T" pin. This makes it easier to drill .

For miniature wicker we use cloth stem wire. For the legs we need 20 gauge and for the rest we use 26 gauge, it's smaller in diameter.
This wire is wrapped with thread. Some brands have the thread coated and it cuts more easily, especially if your wire cutters are dull.
This can be ordered on-line.

From the 20 gauge wire, the larger one, cut your 4 legs at 1 3/4" long.
Make sure they are the same length or your table will wobble.

Choose a drill bit that is the diameter of the 20 gauge wire and drill the 4 corner holes for the legs.

Choose a drill bit to fit the diameter of the 26 gauge wire and drill the holes. I've shown the 26 gauge wires glued in here, don't cut any wire, yet, just drill the holes.

Glue only the 4 legs into the table top. I used yellow wood glue for this.

A note about drilling: Put something underneath the table top and drill through the 2 layers of mat board.

While the legs are drying get a scrap of foam core and draw the same size rectangle as your table top.

Use a large pin like a "T" pin and make holes in the corners of the rectangle.

Widen them out a bit for the legs of the table to fit into.

When your legs are dry fit them into the foam core. This is a base for you to set the table in from time to time to keep everything square and where it should be.

Thank you, Mary, for this excellent tip!

Cut the 26 gauge wire 1" long and glue it into the holes on the edges of the table top.

Please let these dry.

I am going to use waxed linen thread to weave the table. This is what the artisans use. This is available on-line.
I have a tutorial on weaving a basket with crochet thread. Please refer to it for information on using crochet thread instead.

A ball of crochet thread is a small investment for trying out a project. This is a ball of Coats Knit-Co-Sheen, it also might be called Classic Crochet Thread.
You must cut the crochet thread into lengths you are comfortable with and paint it. Put the paint on your fingers and run the crochet thread through them. Hang the thread up to dry.

That's Digger, one of the new kittens that came to live with us. Now, 4 cats.

The waxed linen thread is on top and the crochet thread is hanging limply at the bottom.
That's the problem, you need to have the thread stiffened, it works better.

I've highlighted that. I've gotten so many questions, "Why do I have to paint the thread?"

Let's start weaving.
Can you see the beginning thread laying on the table top behind the wire? Glue that thread down.
Now, begin the over and under weaving all around the table top.
You should come around to the beginning and the thread should go behind the wire where you began.

When you are weaving try not to pull tight, you will pull the legs out of shape. You also do not have to push the weaving down, just lay the rows on top of each other.

I wove about 3/8".

First of all, trim off the thread and glue it behind the leg.

I've set my table into the foam core base.
If you want you can weave while the table is in the base.

I cut 2 pieces of 26 gauge wire 4" long.

I've twisted them together in the middle and then I glued them together with tacky glue.

Draw lines from corner to corner forming an X on your foam core base.

Place your wire onto the foam core and bend it to fit at the corners.

You can tape the middle to the foam core it you want.

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the wire at the corners.

I think you could also place the table back into the foam core and bend the wire around the legs. I haven't tried this, though.

I measured from the bottom of the legs up 1/2" and marked each leg.

Next, I glued the wire onto the legs.
I used tacky glue.

Put the table back into the foam core base and wrap the wire around the legs.

I've got a close shot of the wire wrapped around the leg.

Cut off the extra wire.

Put the table back into the foam core base.

Glue the tiled top onto the table top. I used tacky glue for this.

This is what I used to paint the top of the tiles. I bought it at Michael's.

It is a hard and shiny finish. I had a hard time taking the pictures without showing a shiny top.

I only had to put one coat on, also.
Go ahead and coat the tile top.

While the tile top is drying make 3 braids to cover the edges of the table top, the edge of the weaving and the edge of the shelf we will put in later, (optional).

I used 10" of thread, 6 strands. I want the braid to be wide enough to cover the edge of the table top. You might have to experiment with how many strands you will need if you are using painted crochet thread.

I used tacky glue to glue the braid on and used alligator clamps to hold the braid until it dried.

This next part is optional.
The wire we added at the bottom can be left bare or wrapped with thread. Full-size wicker furniture is not sturdy and that's why there would be a bottom brace arrangement like the one we made.
Sometimes the weaving is shaped so that it is lower at the legs and higher at the sides. This lowering of the weaving also gives the legs some stabilization. I found this complicated to explain to you so I decided to add the lower brace section.

I thought a shelf might be nice to add to the table.
From card stock cut a rectangle the same size at the table top. Trim this until it fits like you see in the picture. Please notice that I have cut the tips of the corners off at the legs. This is your pattern for the shelf.

Place your pattern onto the brace and test fit.

Use your pattern to make a shelf from 1 layer of mat board.

Cut the shelf out.

Glue the shelf onto the brace. You might need to clamp the shelf until it's dry.

With the shelf dry we can wrap the legs.

Use tacky glue to glue the tip of a 10" piece of thread to the inside of the table.
Now, wrap the thread around the leg.

When you get to last little bit apply tacky glue and . . . .

wrap to the end, then apply glue to about 1/8" of the leg and. . . .

wrap 3 times over the tip of the leg.

I cut my braid and used tacky glue to glue the braid to the edge of the shelf.
You could cut the shelf differently, so the braid would be wrapped all around, but I like the way it looks with the shelf being smaller than the top.

A few thoughts about using painted crochet thread. Yes, if I were doing this again, I would use the crochet thread. I don't like the look of the white waxed linen and I always paint it when I finish the piece. This painting fills in the weaving. So how would I go about it all? I would paint thread and wire the same color. Make my table. When I had the shelf cut I would paint it and finish up the table. When I finished, I wouldn't have to paint.

I would like to thank Mary for her idea for using the punch to make tile, using this kind of scrap booking paper for tile and the mosaic idea. I hope this gets your creative juices flowing.

Until next time,

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . .

Just keep making minis!!

Troubles

2013-01-29T09:01:00.002-06:00

I have put the patterns into the tutorial again, there are 4 "pictures" you will have to left click on now. When they were all on one page Paint would not let you enlarge unless you let it use more paper. I have also tried my best to explain how to save your patterns in Paint and re-size them. I hope this helps you. I am a miniaturist, not a computer specialist so I hope I made it clear.
I did make this pattern twice from the patterns, you should be successful if you follow the instructions.

Chris has had some problems with the pattern. You say you needed 5 pieces of foam core for the seat base, you didn't mention that you used any mat board. Did you use 2 pieces of mat board with your seat base? Did you glue the front and back to the 2 11/16" sides of the seat base? The front and back should NOT be glued to the 2 1/4" sides.

I have to say I considered this tutorial for a long time before actually publishing it for this reason. I have to make changes with my patterns often, and I cut my foam core with a saw so there shouldn't be too much difference between pieces. Miniature upholstering isn't for everybody, there is a lot of making it fit, trimming and retrying. I would like more feed back on the pattern.
Kris

THINGS TO DO, THINGS TO SEE

2013-01-21T21:13:00.003-06:00

Miniaturists, look to the left. I have many things listed that I refer to in the tutorials. This chair tutorial refers to the piping tutorial, "How to make piping for a pillow". The pictures at the end of the chair tutorial show where I glued the piping onto the chair.
I hope that helps you out, Kris

It's a revelation.

2013-01-21T08:59:00.000-06:00

Please keep the comments coming, I enjoy them so much. Is that too conceited? It's so much fun hearing how excited you are.
Seeing it is a revelation, isn't it? I know that's how I felt when I saw it for the first time. So much can come of this, have fun!!!
Thanks,
Kris

CHAIR UPHOLSTERING TUTORIAL - How to make and upholster a 1 inch scale chair.

2013-01-20T22:31:00.001-06:00

Where do I begin? I began wishing for the beautiful furniture I saw displayed in Nutshell News so long ago. Always anxious for the next issue to be delivered, hoping that there would be an article in it with directions for making upholstered furniture. At last, July 1994, "Do it Yourself", page 94, Ray Whitledge publishes an article "A Sofa from Scratch". This is a very good starting place, it's where I started and I am thankful to Mr. Whitledge to this day.

I am going to try to give you a starting place in this tutorial. I am using some of Mr. Whitledge's technique and I've changed the pattern.

I started out today on Google Images, using the key words "living room upholstered chairs". Lots of images came up. For you, beginners, I began looking for a certain design: a skirt, no legs; no "T" cushions; simple lines. I know, "That's so boring, Kris." You've got to walk before you can run. You can do so many variations of this once you get used to making upholstered furniture.
I found what I was looking for plus measurements. Measurements are very important and the more measurements listed the better off you will be. Full-size furniture measurements aren't chiseled in granite, that's to say you don't have convert your miniature exactly to the full-size measurements. Changes can be made and sometimes should be made. This started out to be a tutorial on drafting from full-size furniture. I started making changes to the pattern size, some just arbitrary, that's when I stopped and decided to give you a pattern and show you how to make a chair and let you go from there.
Converting full-size measurements are certainly an excellent place to start. I recommend going out to a furniture store with your tape measure in hand and taking a few standard measurements like: heights of backs of different styles, side to side widths, widths of arms, width and depth of seats, height of arms from floor, height of seat cushion from floor and any others I may have forgotten. Take a few pictures if you can. Keep these measurements in a notebook for quick reference.

Keep in mind that the full-size furniture we have now is a larger scale than furniture from the 19th century. Doll house rooms are smaller that our full-size rooms. With that knowledge we know that adjustments must be made.

This is a picture of my "Ethan Allen" room box. I made mock ups of the furniture from poster board to see if I had to change the sizes. The pieces are just simple shapes representing the size. If I need to adjust, I know it now, not after I've spent hours making that special piece that just won't fit.

I have a very good book to recommend, I hope it's still available, maybe there are used ones on Amazon. The name of the book is How to Build Miniature Furniture and Room Settings by Judy Beals. The front of the book says, "Techniques for building and modifying furniture kits, scratch building and upholstering furniture, and a step-by-step guide to building, decorating, and wiring a 19th century room box. That says it all, lot's of questions answered. This book has patterns for a wing chair and Queen Anne settee. She uses 3/16" bass wood for the body of the upholstered furniture, what a coincidence . . . . . foam core is 3/16" thick and you can use it instead.

This is the chair I found to draft and build. I did change the back to an upholstered back, not a loose pillow back. Something you can do later. This pattern can be modified with a round top back, camel back, keep the square corners of the back but give the top of the back an arc; you can have the arms sweep out, you can make the rounded part of the arm larger; if you have access to legs you can make the seat base thinner and leave the skirt off and add legs; you can widen the chair to make a sofa; you can lengthen the seat to make a chaise; as always have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . .

I did want to show you how I begin. I always write the conversion of 1 inch scale down. You would think after all of these years I would have it memorized, just lazy I guess.

Before we start I want to talk about fabric. It is my opinion that the reason that a piece of furniture fails is because of fabric. There are lots of pretty fabrics out there, not so many for miniatures. Do yourself a favor and begin with simple cotton. I would even go so far as to say you should make the first chair from muslin to get the feel of doing this. I want you to be successful and that's the better choice for the first chair. I make all of the "first" pieces from muslin or white-on-white fabric just to see if everything is all right. I am not ashamed to say that there has been more than a few chairs in my garbage can because things just didn't work out the first time.
When you do want to make the chair for a setting try looking at the quilting cottons first, something floral, not patterns that you will have to match. Think of the size of a 1 inch scale doll's hand for the largest size of the flower. Take your sample chair with you to drape the fabric on so you can see what the fabric will look like. Try to stay out of the other departments for now, you will fall in love with something that is, "Just the thing!" and it may be very hard to work with. Glue failure, raveling and fabric being too thick are just a few of the problems you could have. Save that for a little later.

I could confuse you with more stuff, but I think you would be better served if I just started you building.

Here are the pattern pieces. I put a lot of the information on the pieces for you. I print the pattern on card stock and keep the pattern pieces in zip lock bags with the name of the pattern on the bag. Load the pattern into Paint, I have a 1 inch square in the upper right corner.

I have instructions for transferring the patterns at the left of the post, Things to do, Things to see, HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS.

I will attempt to write instructions for transferring these patterns to Paint.

There are four pictures.
Left click on the top picture of the front and back. The picture will come up in a new screen. Right click on the picture. This will open a window. Left click on "Copy Image". Move the cursor down to the left corner of your computer screen, to your Windows start button and left click. This opens a window of your programs, left click on Paint. The Paint program should open up. In the tool bar left click on the "paste" icon. The picture of the front and back should appear. I did not have to re-size this pattern, the reason, I know not. I did have to re-size the others. I am going to go through the instructions to re-size.
In the tool bar left click on the "select" icon. Draw a box around the patterns. In the tool bar left click on the "re-size" option. A window will open up. This can be a trial and error for a few times. Use percentage, not pixels. As an experiment type 50 in both of the boxes and left click on O.K. Print out your result. If it is not what you want, there are 2 arrows in the tool bar. These arrows point right and left, if you left click on the arrow that points left it will restore what you began with. Left click on the arrow that points left and restore your front and back pattern.
I have printed out the patterns and these are the percentages I used: the front and back printed out the right size; for the seat cushion and inside arm cover I typed 45 in both of the boxes; for the back cushion I typed 48 in both of the boxes.
I don't know if you will use the same percentages. I hope this helps. If you can not do this print out the patterns and go to a photo copy store and do a trial and error there to get your sizes correct.

We are going to make the seat base first. For gluing the chair together I use Tacky glue.

Cut from 3/16 inch foam core 4 pieces 2 11/16" x 2 1/4". This foam core is available from Michael's. ALSO,Cut from mat board 2 pieces the same size. Michael's sell mat board back in the framing department.

Apply the glue and I smear the glue by moving the pieces around on each other. Be sure you get the glue out to the edges.

I used my square to make sure all of the pieces are lined up.

Make sure you have good contact and all of the pieces are glued together.

Trace the front and back onto mat board.

Trace the front onto the back. We need to have the lines on the back to glue to that's in another step. This really matters when you have big sweeping arms and you need a line to follow.

Cut your front and back out.

Glue the front and back to the seat base. Glue them to the 2 11/16" sides. You should have a 1/16" of front and back left on each side. This extra is for the mat board sides to fit into.

From 1/2" dowel cut 2 pieces to fit between the arms. Use tacky glue to glue the dowels into place. Use clamps to secure until dry.

Supports for the arms are cut from foam core. Cut 4 pieces to fit between the arms and 5/16" wide.

Glue the foam core together one on top of the other, from 4 pieces you now have 2.

Glue the supports onto the seat base under the dowels.

This supports the card stock cover we are going to glue on next.

This is your arm cover pattern.
I've put "Dry Fit" on this. You need to always dry fit the pattern first, see if you need to make changes. You are not machines and your chairs will not always be cut out the same, there will be small differences in every chair.

I am trying to show you how to curve the arm cover card stock pattern. If you curve it first by pulling the pattern over the edge of the table with your hand on it, it will curve without creasing.

You can get a good curve.

Dry fit the pattern. Take note of any adjustments you need to make when you draw your actual arm covers, don't change your pattern.

Trace the arm cover pattern onto card stock and cut out.

Here are my arm covers.

Curve them and dry fit again.

Apply and smear the tacky glue onto the supports, dowel, back (on the line) and on the front edge.

Glue the card stock arm covers onto the chair. If the foam core supports were not under the dowels the arms would be very delicate and easy to mash when we upholster.

I do not give a pattern for the sides. I use mat board for the sides. Place a strip of mat board up to the side of the chair under the dowel and behind the front.

Trace along the bottom and back of the chair.

I've measured 1/16" in on one side, this is the thickness of the back. The mat board has to fit between the front and back pieces.

Apply glue to the seat base, front, back and under the dowel and glue the side onto the chair.

Your chair is built.

This is my sample chair, I used white-on-white fabric to cover it, like muslin it is easy to work with.

I also dye the white-on-whites, you get a very pretty tone-on-tone fabric. I use Rit dye.

"Why is Kris showing us a rag in a sour cream container?"

This is a wet wash cloth, keep it handy for wiping glue off of the fabric and your hands.

For a bottom cover set the chair on card stock and trace around the bottom.

This is the side that is going to be glued to the bottom of the chair, mark it, mark the front. Cut it out.

I use this glue stick to glue the fabric to the card stock.

I have found that a sheet of photo paper is great for using as a mat when I apply the glue to the card stock. I can go over the edge and get glue onto the photo paper and the glue dries and I can use the photo paper over and over again, as you can see. The glue doesn't dry fast enough if you use regular paper, it stays sticky.
Turn your bottom cover over and apply glue stick.

Press your card stock bottom cover onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Trim around the card stock.

Apply tacky glue to the bottom of the chair, smear it around to cover the whole bottom. Line up your edges and glue the bottom cover onto the bottom of the chair.

Smooth the bottom on with your hand.

Apply tacky glue to the chair and fold up the extra fabric.

I use Thermolam Plus for the batting or padding in my furniture. I buy this from Joann's Fabrics.

Joann's usually keeps it by the cutting tables in a rack with the quilt batting.

Measure the length of the arm and cut the Thermolam Plus this width.

Cut it long enough to go from the seat base over the dowel to just under the dowel.

Apply and smear the tacky glue onto the card stock arm cover.

Lay the Thermolam Plus onto the arm cover.

The Thermolam Plus is glued to just where the dowel stops.

Both pieces of Thermolam Plus are glued on.

Cut 2 pieces of fabric 2 3/4" x 3 1/4". On the wrong side measure 1/4" on one long side and draw a line. Cut "V" notches to that line.

Match the line you drew to the back and glue the end to the side up under the dowel.

I have glued both pieces of fabric onto the sides.

I have taken a picture of the glue on the back and seat base before I've smeared it so you can see where I have applied it. Be sure to smear the glue to get an even coat and no glue oozes out where you don't want it to.

Pull your fabric over the top of the arm, pull tightly and press down into the glue.

Apply tacky glue to the back and press the fabric into it. If you are finding you have too many wrinkles around the dowel lift the fabric off the side and pull a little bit and re-glue to the side. This should take the extra fabric out.

Make a diagonal cut to the corner of the seat base.

Showing what the diagonal cut should look like.

Cut "V" notches around the dowel.

Apply tacky glue to the front and glue the extra fabric down. In this picture I am showing how I pulled up the fabric from the side and pulled on it a little bit to take the extra fabric out and could smooth the notches around the end of the dowel. You will also have trouble getting the notches to glue down if you have any of the Thermolam Plus hanging over the edge.

The fabric has been glued onto the arms.
There are other ways of finishing the front of the arms, like accentuating the gathering but not today.

Cut a strip of foam core 1/4" wide and 1 3/4" long.

This is the spacer for the back cushion.

Glue this piece into the back of the chair. This will make your back cushion slant and look comfortable.

Measure the length of the side of the chair.

Measure the height of the side of the chair.

Transfer your measurements to card stock and cut out side covers for your chair.
Apply glue stick to the card stock and press the side cover onto the wrong side your fabric.
Trim and cut the corners like I have.

Apply tacky glue to the top and bottom and fold the extra fabric over to secure.

*Just a reminder, when I say apply tacky glue, I want you to smear and smooth the glue so you don't have any glue oozing out, even if I don't write in the directions. You do not need to smooth the glue stick.

Apply tacky glue to the side of the chair, be sure to smooth the glue out before you apply the card stock side cover. Smooth the side cover with your hand.

Apply glue to the front and back of the chair and press the extra fabric onto the glue.

Trace the front pattern onto card stock for a front cover.

Cut the front cover out. Apply glue stick to one side and press onto the wrong side of fabric. Trim the fabric like I have done in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock and fold and glue all sides but the top that will be glue onto the seat base.

Apply tacky glue to the front of chair and press the front cover onto it.

Apply tacky glue to the top of the seat base and glue the extra fabric down.

Dry fit the back cushion pattern and make note of any changes that should be made to the final back cushion.

Trace the back cushion pattern onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out.

Dry fit again.

I am carefully bending the top mat board back to tip it out. I know most of you don't have the machines to cut the angle on the seat base as I would have done. This little bend makes the chair look not so boxy from the side.

There will 4 layers of Thermolam Plus on the back.

Cut out a piece of Thermolam Plus the size of the back cushion and trim off about a 1/4" all around.

The second pieces is even all around except at the bottom, it's still 1/4" shorter.

The third piece is even all around.

Apply tacky glue to the back cushion and glue the Thermolam Plus onto the back cushion starting with the smallest, second and then the third piece.

The fourth piece is cut even with the bottom and around the arms. Leave extra at the sides and top to glue onto the edge of the foam core.

Apply tacky glue to the edge of the foam core and press the Thermolam Plus onto it.

Trim corners and trim even with the back of the foam core.

Cut a piece of fabric 4 1/2" x 5". The 5 inches is going from the top to bottom of the back cushion.

Trim the fabric like I have done in the picture.

Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric at the bottom onto the back cushion. Trim as I have in the picture.

Glue the extra fabric into the arm area. Don't worry if your fabric doesn't come over to the back, as long as you have fabric glued to the side of the foam core the raw edge will be hidden.

Apply tacky glue to the top of the back and to the side of the spacer.

Put your back cushion into the chair.

Square corners used to be a problem. I want to show you a nice way to finish them.
Glue the sides of the fabric to the back of the chair.

I show the top glued down, too, and I do that but this method lifts and glues a couple of times so if you want you can leave the top un-glued for now since the top isn't long like a sofa would be.

Fold your fabric over like I have mine, pull tight.

The corner isn't folded exactly like you would a present, but close.

Bring the top over, also bring some of the fabric from the first fold to get the final fold on the corner. It won't have a diagonal fold like the end of a wrapped present.

Stick a little glue into that fold.

Trim out all of the extra fabric.

Glue down the top of the fabric.

Be sure to trim out the bulk.

This is what you should see.

This is a perfectly acceptable finish for square corners. I will use this on upholstered seats, the ones without a cushion.

Beginning to look good.

Dry fit the back pattern and make note of any changes you need to make on the final back cover.

Trace the back onto card stock for a back cover and cut out.

Apply glue stick to the back cover and press onto the wrong side of fabric.
Trim around the back cover like I have shown in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock back cover and fold the extra fabric over and glue down.

Glue the back cover to the back of your chair.

Some of you might not like the seams showing. If you don't this is the time to add boxing to the back.

Measure the width of the corner. Do not include the back cover. You want the boxing to be glued just next to the back cover.

I measured 3/8". I drew my lines on the wrong side of the fabric and I will cut the strip out.

I applied a little glue into the seam where the side of the back meets the top of the arm. I used a toothpick to push the end of my boxing into that seam.

Apply tacky glue to the edge of the back cushion, smear smooth and press the boxing into place. Do not pull any loose threads, cut them. Make sure the boxing is glued all along the edges.
You can glue piping or other trim along the raw edge.

Just another view.

Dry fit the seat cushion pattern and take note if any changes need to be made.

Trace the seat cushion onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out.

Dry fit the seat cushion.

There are 3 layers of Thermolam Plus on the top and 1 layer on the bottom of the seat cushion.

Cut the first piece 1/4" smaller all around and the second piece is cut even all around.

Use tacky glue to glue the Thermolam Plus onto the seat cushion starting with the smaller piece.

Cut a strip of Thermolam Plus the width of the seat cushion.

This is glued to the bottom of the seat cushion.

Bring the end of the Thermolam Plus up the front of the seat cushion and onto the top.
Trim the Thermolam Plus even with the sides and back.

Cut a piece of fabric 2 1/2" x 3 1/2".

Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric from the front and back to the bottom of the seat cushion.

Apply tacky glue to the fronts and backs at the ends. Smear some of the glue onto the fabric.

Fold the extra fabric over just as you would when wrapping a present.

Press the little "ear" of fabric left at the bottom. Get the fabric glued together. Only do this on the bottom of the seat cushion.

You are looking at the front of the seat cushion, you can see the fullness from the Thermolam Plus.
You can also see the little "ears" at the bottom that I have pressed together. I haven't folded the top down, yet.

I have applied the tacky glue, I haven't smeared it, yet. Smear it into the tips that will be the top corners.

This is a side of the seat cushion. I have cut off the bottom "ears" of fabric. The piping will cover that seam. Apply a little more glue into that top corner fold a press together with your fingers to make it less noticeable.

Measure the corner of the seat cushion for boxing. I know this looks like it's almost a 1/2" wide. It looks better if you cut the boxing less than that. You can experiment, but I usually cut my at 3/8".

Cut the boxing just like you did for the back cushion. Glue it on using tacky glue.

At this point I add my piping. I have a tutorial showing "How to make piping for a pillow" in the listing at the left.

Cut card stock strips 11/16" wide for the skirts.

I usually have my piping on at this point, my fault, I forgot. You will see piping on the chair in the pictures after I show you how to make the skirts.

So make believe I have piping on the front and I've set my card stock strip up to the front to measure the length for the front skirt.

Cut the card stock to the length of the front. Apply glue stick to one side and press onto the wrong side of your fabric. Trim the extra fabric as I have in the picture.

Apply tacky glue to the card stock and fold the extra fabric over to secure.

How did that piping get there?

Apply glue to the top edge of the skirt and smear smooth and press onto the front of the chair.

Set the strip of card stock up to the side of the chair and measure the amount you need.
Cut it and apply glue and fabric.

Apply a line of tacky glue to the top edge, smooth it out.

Glue on the side skirt.

Measure for the other side. Cut the card stock, apply glue stick and fabric. Glue the side on. Measure for the back last and repeat what you did for the rest of the skirts.

When you have the all the skirts on you can apply piping to the top edge of the skirts.

Here are pictures of the finished chair.

I hope you give it try.

As always,

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . . . . . . Just keep making minis!

Kris

CARD STOCK

2013-01-20T13:42:00.000-06:00

I buy my card stock from Wal-Mart. I find it in the office supply isle. The brand is Georgia-Pacific, it is acid-free, white, 110 weight, 8 1/2" x 11" and there are 150 sheets in the package.
TTYL Kris

TO: JO

2013-01-12T09:30:00.000-06:00

Paddle wire, this wire is sold in the floral department of Michael's. It is wound on a "paddle", a piece of plastic, the industry calls this paddle wire because of the packaging. It's painted green, it usually comes in 2 different gauges.

THANK YOU KARIN

2013-01-08T07:15:00.001-06:00

We have a weaver amongst us! Thank you Karin very giving everyone the correct vocabulary about the loom. Go to the comments section in the post TO: JO, it has pictures of the loom I made. Karin replaces my uninformed word "thingys" with all of the right words and definitions, too. Thanks for the help, I can always count on my followers!
Kris

TO: ROZ

2013-01-08T07:10:00.001-06:00

I've had a lot of questions about the "Weaving a basket with crochet thread", "Can I paint the basket afterwards?" I paint the thread first so the thread is stiff and easier to work with. It stays where you put it. If you have ever worked with waxed linen thread you would know what I mean. You want the stiffness. Anyway, if you paint afterwards you might clog up the weaving and take away the detail. So, please take the time to paint.
Kris

TO: JO

2013-01-06T16:13:00.001-06:00

Jo has asked about the rag rug beading loom tutorial. I mentioned that I used the springs on my old beading loom to make another loom to make miniature linens. I made another loom because I needed to have the warp threads closer together to actually make fabric. I also made a heddle from scratch. As I said in the tutorial I know just enough about weaving to get myself into trouble. If you Google, use Images in the tool bar, "beading looms", "small looms", "home made looms" you will see pictures of looms that are pretty easy to figure out and make. The heddle is the thing in the middle that lifts up half the warp threads so you can weave with the weft thread. Please, I hope I am not insulting anyone out there that does know about weaving. Bigger looms have heddles that will lift the thread according to a pattern.

This is my home made loom. I haven't used it in a long time. At the right side of the picture are the springs from the beading loom. Important: the threads have come dislodged from their places in the springs, there should be one thread in each slot of the spring.

This is a picture of the heddle. I used green paddle wire for the thingys that the thread is threaded through. To be able to lift half the thread, (every other) you thread between the thingys and then next thread goes into the eye of the thingy. I am sorry for the non-technical terms.
After I had made the thingys I drilled holes into wood and glued them in.

The heddle is in the down position.

The heddle is in the up position.

The heddle is loose, not connected to the loom, until the loom is threaded and then is all works.
There is a lot you can do with this up and down weave by just threading the warp with different colors and weaving with different colors.

I hopes this explains a little bit, Jo. I tried to e-mail you but you didn't have an address. If you have any questions please feel free to e-mail me.

Happy New Year! Kris

THANK YOU!!

2012-12-21T09:25:00.001-06:00

What can I say . . . . except I have the greatest followers!!

Other names may be: mount board, book board, illustration board or birstol board.

In Danish: passepartoutkarton and it may be sold in artists shops.

And . . . . someone looked on Danish e-bay and found some for sale in A-4 size.

So, I hope this helps because you have got to start building some furniture!

You all have a great holiday season and I'll see'ya next year . . . . . . . . Kris

Denmark needs mat board

2012-12-20T09:19:00.000-06:00

I am hoping my followers can help out a fellow miniaturist. This miniaturist lives in Denmark and can not find mat board.

I am told your Google is different than mine. Mat board may also be called something different.

What I am calling mat board is used to "mat" photographs when framing. It's the 1/16 inch thick piece of card board that is under the glass, then the photograph is under the mat board, the mat board will have a hole cut out so you can see the photograph. It is used to enhance or decorate the photograph's edge. It can come in colors, I use the white. Businesses that frame pictures usually will have this product. Art supply stores may also carry mat board.

Can anyone help with the Google search and post the answer? I will keep a watch and publish a post.

Thank you, Kris

SEWING BOX ON LEGS TUTORIAL - How to make a 1 inch scale sewing box on legs with mat board.

2012-12-18T21:42:00.000-06:00

This is my Mary Engelbreit room box. We are going to make the sewing box next to the rocking chair.

My husband sawed the strips for the floor. I masked off a border and painted a pattern I copied from ME post it notes.

I tried my hand at mini needlepoint, not my favorite. The rocking chair is made from beech wood, it looks like oak, but mini size. The pattern for that and the mirrored shelf in the hall came from "The Mott's Miniature Furniture Workshop Manual". I copied the door from a magazine and needle punched a rug. I bunny is from "Furnish a Doll's House" by Michal Morse. The shades on sconces are from tubes of cake frosting.

I used scrap book stickers for the checker board trim on the wall and on the table cloth. I cut out pieces from ME fabric to make the rest of the table cloth. I copied the windows from a magazine. I also copied the wicker chairs from an advertisement for a class. I had to make the wind chime after I saw it.

The shelf and table came from full size furniture pattern books. I had a hard time deciding on how to arrange the fabric on the chair when I made it. I had some ME fabric with sayings on it and I cut one out for a rug. I had to paint in some parts because of over lapping patterns.

This is the sewing box we are going to make. I have it painted for my Mary Engelbreit room, but you can paint it however you want.

These are the pattern pieces. I had a follower tell me to save my drawing in a PDF file so you didn't have to fiddle with sizing the pattern. I did, but blogger will not upload a file, only an image or video. So, copy the patterns into Paint and use the 1 inch square to get the right size. Also, transfer the dots at the top corners of the box part of the side/legs and the dot at the bottom in the middle of the legs.

Trace your pattern onto mat board and cut out using your craft knife. Remember, use a new blade and keep your pencil sharp. I will use yellow carpenter's wood glue for gluing this together. For those of you that have a scroll saw and want to use wood for this project go right ahead. You can also cut mat board on a scroll saw. To cut out once but have two pieces when finished,(using your scroll saw) apply glue to the outer edge of a second piece of wood or mat board and glue the two pieces together.

If Santa is still listening to your requests, a scroll saw sure would be nice to add to your work space.

Do you see how I only have glue at the outer edges. I just want to hold the two pieces together until I have the pattern cut out.

Set the piece with the pattern drawn on it on top of the piece with the glue.

I don't recommend doing this using a craft knife, I don't think you could cut both pieces out without beveling the edges.

Did you notice the dots at the upper corners of the box and in the middle at the bottom of the legs? The two at the top are for the pin hinges and the bottom one is for a decorative spanner or toothpick. Use a "T" pin or other large pin to mark these holes on the pattern side.

Cut out the side/legs, using your craft knife or saw.

Use a drill the size of the straight pins you will use for the hinges to drill only through the first layer of mat board.

Turn the side/legs over and mark the holes on this side.

Even if you cut the side/legs out with your craft knife you will need to mark the holes on the other piece.

Using a drill bit the size of your straight pins drill out the holes on this side of the side/legs. Use a bit the size of your tooth pick or a 1/16 inch dowel to drill out the bottom hole.
Make sure the holes line up.

Stacking the side/legs pieces helps to keep the holes aligned. This is important for the sewing box to stand correctly. You could use a drill press for this, that's a large machine. I have the drill press attachment for my Dremel, but it doesn't drill straight through. I found this system is pretty good.

Trace the lip onto mat board and cut out like the side/legs using a scroll saw or use your craft knife and cut them out singly.

Here are the two pieces.

The lips are glued onto the side/legs 1/16 inch up from the bottom and 1/8 inch from each side. Make sure these are in the same place, if they aren't the sewing box won't sit right.

Cut a strip of mat board 1 inch wide and at least 4 inches long. From this piece we will cut 2 sides, 1 bottom, 1 top and 2 doors.

I want you to measure from the top of the lip, where my pencil point is to the bottom of the box. Mine measured 11/16".
Take away a 1/16 of an inch, that would be 5/8 of an inch for the width of my sides.

If yours doesn't measure like mine, take away the 1/16 and then cut your sides your measurement.

Cut out your sides. I am using my low beam square I purchased from Micro Mark.

Glue the sides to one of the side/legs. Match the bottoms of the sides to the bottoms of the box.

There should be at least a 1/16 of an inch of the lip showing at the top.

Measure between the sides. Mine is measuring 9/16 of an inch. Cut a bottom from the 1 inch wide strip the width you measured.

Glue the bottom onto the side/legs piece between the sides.

Glue the other side/legs piece onto your assembly.

Make sure the sewing box is sitting correctly.

Cut a top that is 1/4 of an inch wide from your 1 inch wide strip of mat board. Glue this between the side/legs pieces.

Trace the handle pattern onto mat board.

Cut out the handle.

Glue the handle to the top of the sewing box.

I am trying something new. Apply yellow glue to all cut edges of the sewing box. I want to "soften" the edges of the sewing box with sand paper later and this will help me do that. "Soften" is what a cabinet maker says when he wants to round the edge just a tiny bit so it's not so square. Even with paint on the edges the mat board always leaves a bit of paper behind when I sand the edges.

While the edges are drying we will concentrate on the decorative spanner. You can use a tooth pick or a 1/16" dowel. The tooth pick has the tendency to brake easily, but you can put a plain tooth pick in without filing the beads.

Cut a piece at least 2 inches long from the tooth pick or dowel.

Find your center, measure 9/16 inch away from center toward each end. Make a mark, these are the ends.

Again, from the center, measure 1/8 inch away and mark. Measure 1/16 inch and mark, measure another 1/16 inch and mark. Do this on both sides of center. These are the beads.

With your craft knife score around the dowel on the marks you made. Don't go too deep, we just want a line to keep the files in.

There are my scored lines.

Leave the end marks alone for now.

These are my needle files, I got them from Micro Mark, I am sure Hobby Builders has them, too.

Sorry, not a good picture.

I am going to use a triangle file first. I am trying to show you the shape, it's a triangle and has the file surface on all three sides.

This is the other file I'm going to use, it's oval and has the file surface on both sides.

I am using the triangle file first to widen out the lines.

Next, I am using the oval file to shape the beads.

Finish up with sand paper to neaten the beads.

Finally, cut the ends off. Sand the ends round just a bit to help get the dowel into the holes of the legs.

Glue your decorative spanner between the legs.

Measure for the doors, from the edge of the top to the end of the side.
Mine measured just under the 9/16 inch mark.

Cut 2 doors from your 1 inch wide strip of mat board. Dry fit the doors.

Paint the cut edges of the doors with glue and let dry.

For the knobs on the doors you can use pins with glass heads, metal knobs or I am going to use some wooden knobs I have from Houseworks.

I measured 1/8 inch down from the top of the door and marked the center. Drill a hole to fit the knob.

Important, please let the glue dry on the doors before moving on.
The glue will probably add to the width, so you will have to sand them a little to get them to fit.
Set the doors onto the top of the sewing box.
Insert a pin into the hole and into the middle of the thickness of the door.

You do not have to push the pin in very much, an 1/8 inch into the door will be enough to hold.
Open and close the doors to see if you have everything aligned.

When you are satisfied with the doors remove each pin and trim to maybe a 1/4 inch. Replace the pin.

If you don't like the head of the pin showing you can cut off the sharp end of the pin and push that into the side and door.
I would wait on doing this until you have the sewing box painted and decorated. The doors will be the last thing you put on and then you can insert the pin. These won't show.

Here's my little sewing box. I don't have time to decorate it. It will be waiting for me when I need one.

I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. I also want to thank you all for following me . . . . . . .
So on to a Happy New Year!!!

Kris

Have Fun, Expand On It, Make It Better . . . . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!!!

1 INCH SCALE CLOCK RADIO How to make a mid-century clock radio.

2012-11-19T20:20:00.001-06:00

This is the radio from the "First Apartment" room box.

I've posted pictures of that room box right before this post, click at the bottom of this post at "older posts" or go to the list at the left to Pictures of Room Boxes.

I am copying it from an S and H Green Stamps catalog. I found 1958,1959 and 1960 catalogs at a flea market. These are good for household things. They give good descriptions of the items.

I especially like that they give the measurements. On K, the model I am going to make, they didn't give the depth. I looked for the depth of the white radio and it was listed.

When I am copying something the first thing I do is to write down the conversion table. I've been making miniatures for over 15 years and I still have to write it down.

This is my composition book that I write it all down in.

I've converted the full-size measurements to 1 inch scale.

Showing pictures of the finished clock/radio.

For this project we are going to use basswood, 1/32" thick. You can cut this with your craft knife.

While you are there pick up a piece of perforated cross stitch paper. I use that for the speaker part in between the clock dial and the channel dial. You can also pierce your own on card stock. I am not good at that, so I use the perforated cross stitch paper.

For the base of the clock/radio we will use our old stand by, mat board.

Cut a couple of strips of mat board, 13/32" (that's the 32nd past the 3/8" mark) wide.

Cut these strips into pieces 15/16" long. You should cut 7.

We are using carpenter's wood glue. I had to buy a new bottle, the lid on my TiteBond bottle broke and I couldn't refill from my husband's gallon bottle anymore. The store I went to had Elmer's, just as good.

Glue the 7 pieces together. Try to keep everything square. I am using my square to butt to.

Try as hard as I can, I can not cut every one of the pieces the same. I will trim, carefully, to keep everything square.

I've trimmed off the long ones.

Cut off about 4 inches of basswood from your big piece. I have a scrap that I am using.

Now, cut a strip that is 1/2 inch wide.

Measure 1/16" from one long side and draw a line.

When we glue the wood to the mat board base the line is where the base should be glued to.

Using the low beam square, (from Micro Mark) I will cut the sides first.

Measure the base's height, should be 3/8", but you use your measurement. Cut 2 pieces that height.

Match up the line to the base, there should be more over hang on one side than the other. The side that has the most, the 1/16," is the front. The back has just enough for a piece of card stock or the perforated cross stitch paper.

Measure the length of the base with the newly glued basswood on it.

O.K., O.K., mine is measuring longer, I've adjusted the measurements, you should be 1 inch long.

That's why I ask you to measure.

Cut 2 strips the length of your base.

Glue these 2 strips to the top and bottom of the base.

To even things up use sand paper, use 220 grit or finer. Things can get uneven really quickly, be careful.

Cut a piece of card stock to fit into the front of the base.

Glue the card stock into the front of the base.

Cut another strip of basswood, this one 7/16" wide.

Measure the height of the base and cut 2 pieces for the sides. Mine measured 7/16". Dry fit, don't glue on.

With the 2 pieces being held onto the sides, measure the length of the base, you should be near the 1-1/8" mark on your ruler. Cut 2 pieces for the top and bottom. Dry fit, don't glue on. I couldn't take a picture and hold the ruler and the sides all at the same time.

To get the painting started I would paint the base now, just the outside for now. I painted mine an off-white. I would also get started with the outside pieces, too. I did the original in avocado, this time I am using harvest gold. Paint on both sides of the outside pieces, they will warp if you don't. Be sure to paint at least one long side, that's going to show to the front of the clock/radio.

While the paint is drying, and that's just so hard to wait for, we will hunt for a clock face and a barometer face. BAROMETER face? Yes, that's what I used for the channel dial, looks kind of like a channel dial.
For the original I had a catalog to cut from, I like nice shiny catalog pictures, I don't have one now. I went to www.klockit.com , that's the catalog I had. When the home page came up I left clicked on "clock inserts". I chose "white 2 3/4" (70mm) fit ups", I left clicked on "view details". I then right clicked on the image that came up. I left clicked the "copy image" option. I then moved the cursor to the Windows start button, that's in my bottom left corner, I left clicked and chose Paint. When the Paint program came up I left clicked on the "paste" button and my faces came up on the screen. I saved them. I then adjusted the size to fit my clock/radio. I know most of you out there know how to do what I just explained, but I thought I would explain it that way so if you wanted the same faces you would know where and how I got them.
After I got the faces to the size I needed I printed them out. I put the paper back into the printer and printed the faces again, over the originals, this makes them darker and brighter. I sprayed the images with clear finish when I was done with the printing.

Why do some pictures do this? I can not get it turned the other way.

Using my circle template I figure I want my clock and channel dials to be 5/16" diameter.

That's what I printed them out to be, after a few that that weren't!

Here are my faces. I am dry fitting them.

I want to divide the front into 3 sections. Mark on the front where the edges of the faces are.

I've got lines drawn, you do the same.

Cut a sliver of basswood, less than a 1/16". We are going to cut this into 2 pieces and glue them onto the lines you drew on the front.

Remove the faces from the front.

Measure and cut 2 pieces from the sliver of wood you just cut.

I've glued the slivers in and I am DRY FITTING the faces again to make sure everything looks fine.

I have painted the inside of the front. I have painted the middle section black, dark grey. When the perforated cross stitch paper is glued in the dark color will accentuate the perforations.

Add a little glue, the carpenter's glue will be fine to use, to your paint to fill in the seams and edges of the wood.

This is one of the pieces for the outside. I am painting it harvest gold. I added a little burnt sienna to yellow.

For the knobs I dipped a couple of straight pins into glue and a little black paint. Let them dry.

I painted and sanded my base and outside pieces at least 4 times to get everything smooth.
When you are happy with your surfaces glue the outside pieces onto the base. Glue the sides first.
Now, you have more seams and edges to cover up. Sand everything even. Use a little glue in your paint to help cover the seams and the edges of the wood on the sides. Sand to smooth the surfaces out.

While you are waiting for the paint to dry you can make the feet for the clock/radio.

I used toothpicks for this. Slice down the middle of the end of the toothpick.

Measure for length and glue onto the bottom of the clock/radio. I used the taper of the end of the toothpick to make the clock/radio have a slight tip to the back, the front is higher.

This is the perforated cross stitch paper, I found it in an 8.5 x 11 sheet. Also makes good peg board for miniature scenes. I used it in the "First Apartment" for the cabinet doors on the bookcase/cabinet by the sofa.

This is the back of the clock/radio. Measure it for a piece of the perforated paper.

Paint the back black.

Glue a piece of the perforated paper into the back of the clock/radio.

Glue the faces onto the front.

Paint a little bit of the perforated paper the same color as the base.

Apply a little acrylic finish on the knobs.

You can start applying finish to the whole clock/radio. I did apply 3 to 4 coats of finish and sanded between coats to get a "plastic" like finish. Only did this on the outside, I didn't do that to the inside where the faces are.

I applied a coat of acrylic finish to one side of the perforated paper.

I've cut a piece of the perforated paper to fit inside the middle section. To fill in any gaps there may be use a paint and glue mixture.

After this is dry you will want to apply another coat of acrylic finish to the front.

I've got a couple of coats of acrylic finish on the clock/radio.

I save clear plastic packaging. You never know when you might need some.

Measure and mark to cut out little windows for the clock and channel dials. I made a mark on the plastic with my craft knife and trimmed with scissors. I did not glue these in, you can just stick them in the openings, if they are tight, they will stay put.

I've got the windows in and I've drilled holes for my straight pin knobs.

This was fun to do again. This is the kind of stuff I did all of the time for my room boxes. I love making the minis myself. Hunting for just the right thing to copy and then figuring out how to go about. Ah . . . . when I get the orders done I will be able to "play" again.

I hope this gets your creative juices flowing!!

Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!

Happy Thanksgiving!! Kris

First Apartment, I wish . . . .

2012-11-19T14:25:00.002-06:00

This is a picture of "First Apartment". I am going to show you how to make the clock/radio that's on the book shelf.

Now, if I had really had this apartment in the '70s it would have been yellow and orange with those 1960's flowers all over. As it is, it's bright enough. I thought I would try green, but I couldn't get the green the way I wanted.

Always wanted the Eero Sarrinen chairs, did I spell that right? I made these from little plastic wine glasses.
Remember the record player that that folded up to go inside the case?

This is supposed to be a hide-a-bed, if I were really there you would see the bed part!

On the shelf is the clock radio we are going to make.

I made the afgan, a reminder of home, since I'm away in the big city, doing what I have no idea!

I am writing the project now, it should be up by late tonight. Kris

To Kathy Thompson

2012-11-05T07:16:00.003-06:00

I have a listing of projects to the left, "Things to do, Things to see". The lamp shade is under: How to make a miniature lamp shade. Kris