Dollhouse Miniature Furniture - Tutorials | 1 inch minis

Top of the Baker's Rack

2012-03-09T09:37:00.000-06:00

O.K., This is not easy but here goes . . . The vertical pieces are florist's wire, not the covered kind, the "Bright" kind, it's bare and silver, can't remember what gauge. I made forms for the curved part and bent the wire in the forms. The flower at the center is easy, it's a paper punch and then shaped with a stylus. The shelves were supposed to be cut and holes drilled for the wire, they were. I got excited over getting the top all put together and spray painted the whole thing flat black. OOPS!! Wanted the shelves stained. I had to cut the shelves out of the assembly, was not going to remake this thing. Got them cut out. So the result was now thin slices of wood holding the wires in line. Now, to the sides. This was accomplished by sawing bass wood paper thin. Making forms again, two of them. Soaking the paper thin wood in hot, hot water and placing them into the forms to dry. After they were dry I took them out and put them back in with glue between the layers, this is laminating. We did this with the marble topped wine rack using card stock. After the glue was dry I took the shapes out and glued them together and glued them to the back. Then I glued new stained shelves into the assembly.

NEAT HOUSES

2012-03-06T10:36:00.000-06:00

I love the fairy tale type houses. I have always wanted to build one. I want to live in the Hobbit house. I found a cool site for you all to look at and plan your next project. aboveallhouseplans.com
On the left side of the site, scroll down in the reddish/purplish margin, find the "Designer's Planning E-Book". Right below that is a list of the house designs. I can't remember which category the "Gretel" is in, but it's so cute. Kris

THANK YOU

2012-03-04T09:08:00.000-06:00

Everyone needs to go to FabSabbyRoses and see the kitchen cabinets she made.

That's the best "thank you" any follower can give me! To see one of my projects recreated so beautifully shows me that I am writing the tutorials so that my projects can be made.
My followers just keep me going . . . . . . Kris

NERVOUS

2012-02-25T17:31:00.000-06:00

This is what is great about mat board, time is invested but not a lot of money. Not discounting your time, but miniatures do take time and if you don't like what you did you can do it over without spending a lot more money.
Yes, applying a coat of varnish is fine for the sink and at least the edges of the mat board. Go back and re-read the instructions I address the coating of the edges. Take a breath and just go back and read, go step by step and slow down. It's exciting to see this happen, you are creating your own miniature, something to be proud of!
With a blog name like yours I would think you are very well acquainted with chabby chic. Do you keep note books on things you like? I do, I go over them all of the time. Go back and pick something. You can always re-paint the cabinets.
This is supposed to be fun. Funny I tell you all that, I would over think, over discuss (with any family member that was in ear shot) worry and just plain get mad over my scenes. My family would learn to find ways to avoid me during these times. They would tell me, "I thought this was your hobby and it was supposed to be fun." "Blah, blah, blah, just tell me what you think!" They are so happy now that I just make furniture and write the blog.
Really, just relax, it's just mat board. TTYL Kris

VICTORIAN

2012-02-25T10:21:00.000-06:00

Looking for hints on period design? The UK has a great miniatures magazine that has articles by Jane Kubiesa, she researches period design for miniatures. This magazine is DollsHouse and Miniature Scene. In the August of 2011, issue 206, there is an article on the Victorian period.

GOOD LUCK !

2012-02-24T17:32:00.000-06:00

I am glad this tutorial got all of your creative juices flowing! Be sure to look up the other way to antique the cabinets. IT DOESN'T CALL FOR WAX. I believe it's under Making a kitchen dresser from mat board.

For 1/2 scale, I would use the mat board for the cabinets. For the doors try to find something thinner, poster board? You don't have to make the whole thing, try making a door first, use a couple of layers of card stock for the second layer on the doors. I wouldn't worry about sanding the shape on the poster board or card stock, I don't think it could be done with satisfaction. Finish the door to see if it will take the paint and other finishes. Be sure to seal the edges of the poster board. If this works than I would go ahead and make your 1/2 scale kitchen cabinets.

Kris

Jane Graber Pottery

2012-02-18T10:16:00.000-06:00

No, I didn't make the pottery. I love pottery, miniature and full-size. Went to the St.Louis show and spent like crazy when I was planning this kitchen. Kris

MAT BOARD

2012-02-18T07:31:00.003-06:00

Yes, the mat board I use is the same that would be used for matting a picture in a frame. Don't be afraid to try this out. It's just mat board.
Kris

KITCHEN CABINETS - How to make contemporary kitchen cabinets from mat board. FINISHING THE CABINETS.

2012-02-17T16:12:00.000-06:00

I wanted to show you another top. This piece is from the same kitchen, it's in the dining area. I found this full-size baker's rack in my Ethan Allen furniture catalog.

On this top I painted black first and splattered ivory, grey and a little dark red.

If you haven't given all of the raw edges a coat of clear finish, (I've used Delta's PermEnamel Clear Satin Glaze) do so now. Let this dry and sand smooth.
Pick a color to paint your cabinets. I mixed Delta's Ceramcoat Old Parchment with Magnolia White. It came out a light creamy yellow.

I want you to make a couple of sample boards. Cut them from scrap mat board. Do to them what you do to the cabinets. When it comes time to paint on the "antiquing" solution you will have something to play with first and get the hang of it.
I painted 3 coats of my base coat on the cabinet parts. I did this in one sitting. By the time I finished with all of the pieces the first piece was dry enough to apply another coat. Let dry a couple of hours after the 3 coats.
I sanded with 220 grit paper on all surfaces. I used a plastic clay tool to run over the grooves in the doors and corner posts to maintain the depth. You probably only need to do this once. The metal stylus made a dark line and I didn't want that.
After you've sanded and wiped off the surface paint it all again 2 or 3 times. Get a nice smooth surface. Let this dry a few hours or over night.

I've got my cabinet parts painted.

At this point I am going to explain what I did with my cabinets to antique the surface. This is just one way.
** I would like you to go back to "How to make a kitchen dresser from mat board" (this is in the listing of Things to Do on the left) and read about that finish. I refer to the section after the surface is dented with a rock. Between the two techniques I like the kitchen dresser the best. You don't have to paint on the acrylic varnish like I do here. You do have to use a water base stain, wipe off and buff with a piece of crumpled brown paper bag. You might want to review this tutorial before you choose the technique to use. Of course, you might have your own favorite way of antiquing, too.
Back to this tutorial. Sand lightly using 220 grit or finer. Wipe off the dust. I used Delta's PermEnamel Satin Glaze, you can use your acrylic finish, to paint an smooth coat on the cabinet parts.
Sand this coat, lightly, wipe off the dust. Apply another coat. Let dry.
Now, for the antiquing. This is where the extra mat board sample boards come in. You can try out what you have on hand and see what looks good to you and is easy for you to do. Try out different browns to see which color looks best on your base coat. If you don't have acrylic thinner, use glazing medium.

O.K. My notes from years ago say I used Folk Art Artist's Pigment Burnt Umber and lots of acrylic thinner. Well, Duh Kris, that stuff is super thick. We want a thin consistency, we are going to wipe it off leaving a little behind.

By applying a coat of varnish on the surface we are able to wipe off the antiquing solution.
Try things out. When you get something you like, finish the cabinets with it.
I am adding a lot of acrylic thinner to my burnt umber, painting it on and wiping it off with a piece of old "T" shirt. The tricky part is painting a large space like the front of the bottom cabinet. You don't want the antiquing solution to dry, keep it wet.

When you have all of your parts finished let them dry for 24 hours. You really need to do this or you will loosen the antiquing solution with the next step.

After 24 hours I waxed the surfaces with Finishing Wax by Minwax. Look in the stain department for a finishing wax, mine is liquid but I think paste would work just as well.
Apply the wax and buff off with a piece of an old "T" shirt.

Glue the door and drawer fronts to the front of the bottom cabinet.

Starting to look like something, isn't it?

Glue the sink in and the counter top on.
If you clamp, remember this is mat board, don't clamp too tightly. Put pieces of mat board onto the top so the clamps won't leave impressions in the counter top.

For the "glass" in the cabinet doors I use 1/16" thick acrylic. I buy a poster frame from Wal-Mart, the acrylic in the frame is perfect and the big piece lasts me a long time. I use my craft knife to score and cut the acrylic.

We are going to make a small tool for pleating the curtains for the upper cabinet doors.

**You can leave the curtains out and glue in shelves if you want to. Load the shelves before gluing the doors onto the upper cabinets.**

This didn't come to me until I received my "Miniature Collector" for March 2012. If you have a Pretty Pleater, 1/2 scale use it.
I wanted something for miniaturists that didn't have one of those.
Back to the article. On page 22 a picture shows pretty curtains in a valance. The curtains are folded in a way that shows the lining. The caption says that Sandra Whipple, (the article is about her) sandwiches aluminum foil between the layers of fabric to keep the folds. How cool is that!?
That gave me an idea for this project. Our little curtains are just gathered, nothing fancy, and of course you could get your needle and thread out and still do that. I avoid a needle and thread as much as possible. I used to sew every day, all day years ago. I loved doing it, would never think that I would avoid it, but I do.
I'm showing how to make a small pleater you can use the aluminum foiled fabric with. You can use the foiled fabric with the Pretty Pleater, too. This is for those who don't have a pleater. You can make this larger by lengthening the strips of mat board.
Cut a piece of mat board a little larger than the door.

I measured my 1/2 scale Pretty Pleater and the ribs are 3/32" apart and 1/8" tall.
Cut strips of mat board 1/8" wide.
Glue to the mat board on a straight line.

Measure from that strip 3/32" and draw a line.

Glue on another strip of mat board.

Measure again and draw another line.

Eight strips should be enough for the door.

Try to cut the strips all the same width and even. If you don't you will have a hard time keeping the fabric straight when you start to pleat.

Let this dry.
With this being made from mat board I wouldn't use it with a steam iron. If you are careful I think you could use a dry iron with it. Don't use any sprays, either. Using an iron with this pleater place the fabric wrong side up. Press the fabric into the ribs using plastic credit cards. Use iron on interfacing to secure the pleats.

Here's your pleater.

Apply glue stick to the aluminum foil and glue to the fabric.
A 3" long piece should do.
Make it wide enough to fit into the cabinet hole.

Walk the credit cards across the ribs. Keep one credit card in a rib while you press the fabric into the next rib with the other credit card. Hold the first credit card tightly, don't let the fabric slip out. Continue this until you've reached the end of the pleater.

Glue narrow strips of fabric to the top and bottom of the pleats to secure them.

There's our little curtain.

Glue the curtain onto the door.

Glue the door onto the cabinet.

Look'in good!

The handles are made from 26 gauge paddle wire. Cut a piece, fold in half and twist together.
Paint the twisted wire black.

The escutcheons, (big word, huh?) are made from card stock diamonds. If you have a punch, use it.
If not you can draw diamonds onto card stock. My scrap measures 3-1/16" x 1-3/4". The length and width makes a difference in the elongation of the diamond.
I drew an X from each corner. This measured 3/32" between each line. Cut the diamonds with your craft knife.

We are going to make a form to bend the wire handle on.
Cut 4 pieces of mat board 1/4" wide. You change this width if you want. This is how long the handles will be.

Glue these strips together.

Bend the twisted wire around the form.

Trim the extra wire off even with the form.

Wrap tape around a scrap of mat board so that the sticky side is up. Put your diamonds onto this tape and paint them black. Be sure you get the edges, too.
Again, if you have a diamond punch and black card stock, use them.

I had to paint my handles, I didn't paint the wire before I cut the handles.

Peirce a hole into the center of the diamonds. Make sure the hole is big enough for the wire to go through.

Measure, mark and drill holes for the handles.

Glue the diamonds on.

Push the handles into the hole.
You don't have to glue the wire in.

We're getting there.

I want you to drill holes into the sides of the valance for toothpicks.

We are going to dowel the valance to the upper cabinets. This will hold much better that butt gluing.

Glue short pieces of toothpick into the hole with the points sticking out.
Press the points of the toothpicks into the side of the upper cabinet to mark where the holes need to be drilled.
Drill the holes into the upper cabinets and glue the valance to them.

The valance in now held securely between the upper cabinets.

I have a mitre saw to cut the mitres with. I don't know of any substitute for this.

Measure, mark and cut the crown mould for the upper cabinets.

If you have gaps fill with paint mixed with glue. Sand smooth and touch up with base coat and a little thinned brown paint. Wipe a little wax on and buff off and you're done.

We all have gaps!

Not much to do, now.

I used 18 gauge cover wire for the faucet. If you have a smooth wire and it looks to be the right size use it.

I glued together 3 pieces of mat board 1/4" wide and drilled a hole and glued the wire into the hole.

From the top of the curve to the top of the mat board it's 1-1/4".

A word about faucets. Go to Google Images and Google kitchen faucets. You will find many styles to choose from if you don't like the one I have here.

I have sanded the mat board and painted a layer of yellow glue onto everything to seal.

At the top of the picture I have a toothpick that has been filed and sanded to shape.
In the middle I have a decorative toothpick. See the little handle off to the upper right. That is made from the decorative toothpick. You can use this, but I thought it was too small so I used the one I shaped with the file.
I did use part of the decorative toothpick for the part of the faucet coming from the mat board. I carefully drilled a hole in the "bead", that's the rounded part that sticks out from the rest of the toothpick. I glued my handle into the hole.

This is my faucet. Look on line for ones that you like and you think you can make. Or you can buy miniature faucets, too.

I've drilled a hole into the bottom of the mat board for a toothpick to dowel the faucet into the counter top.

From paper I've cut narrow strips and glued them onto the end of the faucet and at the bottom of the part coming from the counter top.
In later pictures you will see that I also glued a narrow strip of paper to the faucet at the top of the mat board.

I forgot to tell you to measure, mark and drill a hole in your counter top for the dowel.

I painted gesso over the wire and mat board to make it look smoother.

If you want to make a drain pipe from card stock go ahead.
I used two paper punches to punch a ring for the drain hole in the sink. I punched this from card stock and punched 4 of them and glued them together.

I've glued the drain pipe in. This isn't really necessary, but I did it anyway.

I painted the inside of the drain pipe silver and painted the ring silver, too.

I've glue the ring onto the sink. Paint around the inside of the hole, too.

I cut from card stock the strainer and glued it into the drain. I will paint it silver.

I bet you thought I forgot about the toe kick. I did.
Cut from mat board a piece to fit inside at the bottom of the bottom cabinet.
Paint it black.

I've painted my faucet and placed it into my counter top.

And who says you can't make fancy cabinets from mat board. You can make that kitchen you have always dreamed about. Get on Google and Google up designer kitchens and take your pick. I really hope to get some e-mails with pictures of your kitchens! All it takes is time, go slowly, have patience and you can do this.

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis !!

ANOTHER ROOMBOX

2012-02-12T10:26:00.002-06:00

This is a roombox I made a while ago. "Princess of Quite A Lot". I like Mary Engelbreit designs so I decided to create a roombox with her flavor. The basic design came from a Mary E. post it note.

The little shelf in the foyer is from Mott's book of furniture patterns. The rocking chair is made from beech wood, this looks a little like oak wood in miniature. The pattern for that came from Mott's pattern book, also. The stove is Chrysnbon, of course. I've always wanted a painted floor in my house so I painted this floor with a design I found on Mary E. post it notes. The lamp shades on the sconces, (they are really candle holder sconces) are the screw caps from tubes of frosting. I bought frosting just the other day and found they had changed the packaging! No more lamp shades : ( I always liked the frosting caps better than the toothpaste caps. The edge had a wider pleat. I had a terrible time needle pointing the picture, glad I did it, but I won't be doing any more tiny, tiny needle pointing! My husband bought the plates for me and there was no signature on them. The little grey rabbit in the rocking chair is from a pattern from the book "Furnish a Doll's House" by Michal Morse. The sewing stand is a copy of my friend's full size sewing stand. I am going to make a pattern for this and make it in mat board for the blog later this year. Remind me if you don't see it !!

I like making roomboxes with nooks so I made this one to house a table and chair set. I found the chairs in an advertisement in Miniature Collector. An artisan was having a class at the Chicago show and she had a picture of the chairs she was making. I don't sell these chairs but I did make a pair for myself. I wanted the window to be different so I made up a design with 3 small panes at the top and 2 large panes at the bottom.

I bought fabric with Mary E. sayings and designs and cut it up. I cut out the "Princess of Quite A Lot" and made a rug. I had to paint in some of the design since another saying overlapped it. I glued it onto card stock and made fringe for the edge. By the time the project was over that piece of fabric looked like Swiss cheese!
The table cloth started out as a white square. I cut and glued the border on using bits and pieces. The checker board is a scrap booking border. I used "Wonder Under" to make some parts of the fabric "iron on". The flowers on the bottom table cloth was made this way. I know it was crazy to cut all of those flowers out singly but I did it anyway and ironed them on the way I wanted it to look.
The small table if from a full size furniture pattern book. Even the doilies came from the Mary E. fabric.

I wanted to show you the wind chime. I saw this in the "Home Companion", that's Mary Engelbreit's magazine. I made the teapot, cup and saucer from Fimo and used Chrysnbon spoons. So cute.

Some of you may know I have a pet rabbit that runs loose in my breeze way were I work. His name is Ginger. Before I had him, though, I had another. My kids saved him from dogs. The former owners got tired of him and dumped him out here in the country. He was white and definitely a tame rabbit, they thought, "A rabbit is a rabbit." Well, the dogs were chasing him, we don't have dogs so they weren't our dogs. My kids heard the racket and went to find out what was going on and they brought this big white rabbit in the house. I took to him quickly and he was "Bunny". He passed away and I remembered him by putting the rabbits in my roombox. He looked a little like the one on the floor by the checkered chair, not white/white, but not grey either.

I hoped you liked the tour. I am going to begin work on the February blog, finishing the kitchen cabinets.

TTYL Kris

NEWS FLASH !!

2012-02-01T14:49:00.003-06:00

Hi Guys,
I just tried something with piping. I had to make some pillows and was using fabric that I didn't want to make that diagonal bias cut. I had never tried making piping with the straight grain, I did mention it in the pillow tutorial for you or I try at a later date. In full-size sewing cording is made with fabric cut on the bias, it turns the corners better. Sooooo, I made the piping with a straight cut of fabric and I am pleased with the results. I think I will still use the bias for striped fabrics but it's good to know the piping will work both ways.
Talk to you soon, Kris

JANUARY TUTORIAL

2012-01-18T13:48:00.001-06:00

Thank you Klara!!! That section would flash up at me when I would begin and then disappear and I didn't know how to get it back. . . . Post Options!! So cool, thank you so much. My followers are the greatest!!

Hope you all enjoy the tutorial. We will finish them next month, Kris

KITCHEN CABINETS - How to make contemporary kitchen cabinets from mat board.

2012-01-18T13:47:00.001-06:00

These are pictures of my corner cabinet doll house. There are more pictures in the blog under "Pictures of Room Boxes" in the left margin under THINGS TO DO, THINGS TO SEE.

I made my cabinets from wood, that's before I realized the wonderfulness of mat board. Believe me if I had known about what could be done with mat board I would have made them from mat board. Much less investment in tools and materials! The most you would need to invest in is a mat board cutting system, with all the bells and whistles that's about $100.00. BUT YOU CAN STILL DO THIS WITH JUST YOUR KRAFT KNIFE. So don't NOT try this out!!

I am married to a cabinet maker. From him I've learned how to build correctly, from wood, cabinets. Mullions, stiles, rails, faces, all the terms I've learned from him. Some things we will use, some things we'll do because we are using mat board, not wood. I've blended things I've learned from him and things I've developed working with mat board. In the end you'll have cabinets that will look designer professional. No need to wish for that fabulous kitchen you saw in the mini-mags . . . .YOU CAN DO THIS.

After you read this you should be able to go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy one of those beautiful books full of designer kitchens and pick one out to make yourself, really. That's what I've done, that's where the ideas come from. Search the Inter-Net for standard sizes and convert to 1 inch scale, 1 inch equals 1 foot, 1/2 inch equals 6 inches and so on. Counter tops are 2 foot wide, that's 2 inches, cabinet bases are 36 inches tall, including the counter top, that's 3 inches. We are making the sink base, it would be 6 foot long in full-size, it's 6 inches in 1 inch scale.

I am going to begin with the posts at the side. I've turned mine using my Dremel in the Work-Station, then sawed them half on my table saw. I don't think many of you have these tools, some might and please go ahead and make some turned posts. I've changed the posts so that they can be made from mat board. I want to make them first because the counter top has to have a lip, stick out, beyond the posts so I need to know just how thick they will be. I like measuring from the finished item, my husband would shake his head at me, "You should know this from measurements, the thickness of the material and figure back." Yeah, I said I use some of his stuff!

There are six parts published in this January blog. I will publish how to finish the cabinets in February.

PART TWO, KITCHEN CABINETS FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:46:00.004-06:00

*Keep your pencil sharp for better marking of measurements. Keep a sharp blade in your craft knife.

Glue a piece of card stock to a piece of mat board. Use yellow glue through out this tutorial.

Cut 2 pieces of this sandwich 1/4" x 2-7/8". Measure and mark 3 lines, evenly spaced onto the card stock side.

*2-7/8"? That's because the counter top will measure 1/8" or as close as we can get with 2 pieces of mat board, together that's going to be 3" or 3 foot in full-size.

Use a small ball stylus to press into the card stock side on the lines.

*I glued card stock to the mat board because when the ball stylus was used it would cause the mat board to separate. The lines are close together here, on the doors we won't need to do that, the lines are farther apart.

To build the post you need to cut from 1/4" wide mat board 2 pieces each: 1/4" x 1/2"; 1/4" x 7/16", (top pieces); 1/4" x 3/8" and 1/4" x 5/16, (bottom pieces).

Round with sand paper, (120 grit) of 1 short side of each of these pieces.

*When I say round I want you to make a "quarter round" edge, you are only rounding off the top edge or corner. You are not rounding off the whole side or both edges.

Glue the 1/2" and 7/16" pieces together matching 2 long sides and the un-sanded short end. Glue the 3/8" and 5/16" pieces together matching the same way as before.

Glue these assemblies to the 1/4" x 2-7/8" long piece with the lines. One set on top and one on the bottom. Match your sides evenly.

Now, we need to cut a "shoe mould".

*That's the piece of quarter round that goes at the bottom of the post. (This should also be at the bottom of base boards.) Quarter round is called quarter round because only one of the 4 corners is sanded round.

Round by sanding an end of a 1/4" wide strip of mat board.

Cut the end off, I cut mine at 3/32" wide.

I rounded with the bigger piece first because it is easier that trying to round this little piece after it's cut to width.

Glue your shoe mould onto the bottom of the posts.

Cut the front of the base cabinet, 2-7/8" x 6"

Set the posts onto each side of the cabinet base front. I set the posts 1/16" from the ends. Mark 1/16" from the inner edge of each post.

Mark and draw a center line on the front.
Measure up from the bottom a 1/4" and draw a line.

We are making the toe kick at the bottom front of the cabinet base.

I used a circle template to make the curved ends of the toe kick.

Cut the mat board out on the lines you drew.

You can glue the posts onto the front of your cabinet base.

Door and drawer faces are 1-3/16" wide with a 1/8" space between.

Cut a strip or strips of mat board 1-3/16" wide.
The doors are 1-1/2" long, cut 4.
The drawers are 11/16" long, cut 2.
This is the first layer of your doors and drawers
Don't glue them on, yet.

Cut another strip 1-1/16" wide.
For doors cut 4 pieces 1-3/8" long.
For drawers cut 2 pieces 9/16" long.
This is the second layer. We are going to make an ogee edge on the doors and drawers.
Make the drawer fronts first. Round off all for edges.
Center the small piece on the large piece and glue together. Make 2.

*Note: I've written before about the ogee reveal. I try by best to keep measurements from getting into the 32nds and 64ths. Sometimes I have to, though. Make a sample, if you want less of a reveal, the space between the edge of the top layer and the edge of the bottom layer, make you top layer a little larger. Not quite the whole 1/8" I have all around. This is your design, make them the way you would like to have them.

The door faces are decorative, something like the kitchen dresser from an earlier blog, (May, 2011).
On the smaller pieces for the door I measured in from all sides 3/16".

Again, you can change these measurements to suit your tastes. This is about technique, really.

Sand all for edges of these 8 pieces.

I used an oval template to make the curve at the top of the door. This is optional.

With a sharp blade in your craft knife cut the inside shape out of the top layer of your door faces.

Remember, several light cuts are better than 1 deep cut.

Center the top layer of the door faces onto the bottom layer.

Draw around the opening.

I measured and drew evenly space lines on the bottom layer of the door faces.

I used a small ball stylus to press into the mat board.

Center the top layer onto the bottom layer and glue the layers together.

Cool doors, huh?

Can you see it, yet?

Lay your drawers and doors on the front of the base cabinet. The doors should be about 1/8" from the bottom and the drawers should be about 3/16" from the top.
The space above the 2 center doors is where the farm house sink will go. We need to measure and cut out the space.

Measure 7/8" down from the top. If you have the drawers and doors where you want them, spaces between even to your eye, measure 1-3/4" in from each side of the front of the cabinet base.

Connect all the marks and draw lines.

Cut out the sink space.

I've got my doors and drawers just setting on the front. Don't glue them on yet, it's more realistic if you paint them separately.

PART THREE, KITCHEN CABINETS FROM MAT BOARD.

2012-01-18T13:45:00.001-06:00

Cut 2 strips of mat board 5-7/8" x 1-7/8". (I know my strips are wider than 1-7/8".) Glue them together.

Center this piece under the cabinet front, leave a 1/16" space at each side. The bottoms should be even.
Trace the toe kick area.

Cut the toe kick out.

Oh my, look at that messy cut!

Glue this piece, the big piece, to the back side of the cabinet base front. Center this so that there is a 1/16" space at each side and bottom is even. When we glue the toe kick's back in it will have some realistic depth to it. We won't be cutting and gluing the toe kick's back in until we get to the finishing of the cabinet.

With the posts glued on we can figure how wide the sides need to be. Remember, the counter top is 2" and we want a little lip past the post. This can be as little as the width of a fingernail but not more than a 1/16".

1-11/16" is what I'm going to cut the width of the side. That leaves a 1/16" past the post for the lip of the counter top.
Cut 2 at 2-7/8" x 1-11/16"
Glue the sides onto the cabinet front. The cut edge of the front shows on the sides. You don't glue onto the cut edge of the front.

The piece we glued to the front makes a nice "L" shape for the sides to be glued into.

For stabilization I want you cut some triangles to glue into the corners of the cabinet.

If you have a square, use it.

Glue the triangles into the cabinet base.
Glue the top ones level with the front and sides.
Glue the bottom triangles about a 1/4" up from the top of the toe kick.

For the back we need to cut a piece 2-7/8" x 5-7/8".
Before gluing into the cabinet base measure 7/8" down from the top, one long side. Draw a line. Cut a strip of mat board about 1/4" wide and about 3" long. Glue this right under the line you drew in the center of the back.
Now, glue the back into the cabinet base between the sides.

Here's the back glued in with that strip glued in.

Cut more triangles and glue them into the cabinet base.

Cut a piece of mat board 1-5/8" x 3". This is the shelf the sink sits on.

Glue this into the cabinet base.

The cabinet base is done, onto the sink.

PART FOUR, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:40:00.001-06:00

Cut a strip of mat board 7/8" wide and at least 9" long.
I know my sink is wide, but that's up to me. You can design your cabinets the width you need and the sink you need.
Cut 2 pieces a little less that 2-1/2". The opening is 2-1/2", we need room for gesso and paint. Don't cut more than a 1/16" less. The sides are 1-7/16". Glue the sides inside the back and front.

Cut a bottom to fit inside your sink.

Cut a hole for the drain. Mine's 1/4".

Set your sink into the cabinet base. If you need to trim the front edges of the cabinet on either side of the sink, try sanding the sink first to see if that will help. If it doesn't carefully trim the sides of the cabinet where the sink will go.
If you've made the sink too small you can "shim" out the front opening with narrow strips of card stock until the opening is right. This shimming is perfectly acceptable it's done all of the time is full-size.
The sink should be level with the top edge of the cabinet. If it's not you can add a shim to the shelf to level the sink.

Sand the top edges of the sink round, all the way round, taking off the two square edges. Sand the front corners round. I also sanded the bottom front edge a little.

Paint a layer of acrylic varnish on to seal. Let dry.

Now, to make this mat board box look like porcelain.
I've used gesso for years to shape wood into porcelain or porcelain covered cast iron.

I've used a piece of mat board to apply the first layer of gesso on the sink. If you have a spatula, use it.

Use a soft brush dipped in water to smooth out the surface as much at you can.

Let this first coat dry over night.

It's morning and my first coat is dry and it's got some cracking. That's all right, we will fill them in.
You can sand some of the rough spots off. I found using the soft wet brush while the gesso is wet is the best way to go, though. Not so much sanding after the gesso is dry.

I've applied another coat with a flat stiff brush to add more gesso and fill the cracks. I am going to use the wet brush to smooth it out.

I am adding gesso to the inside corners and the seam where the bottom meets the sides.
Set this aside to dry. You can add more gesso, smooth, let dry until you are satisfied with the surface.

While the sink is drying we will move onto the counter top.
I've got a 1/16" lip over the front, that's past the edge of the posts, so I am going to have a 1/16" past the sides. I'm going to cut the bottom layer of mat board 6-1/8" x 2". I want to make an ogee edge so I will cut the top layer 6" x 1-15/16". Only need the ogee on the front edge.

Sand round 2 short ends and one long side, that's your front. Glue the 2 pieces together keeping the un-sanded edges even and the small piece centered on the larger one.

*Note: I've been playing around with gluing mat board together and I think I've found something helpful.
When gluing two large pieces like the one we have here I used a DRY iron to set the glue. Be sure your pieces are stuck together and all excess glue has been wiped away. Set the iron to it's hottest setting and to dry, no steam, and press. Don't slide the iron, that can shift the pieces. I left the iron on for about 30 seconds, enough to get the heat through. I took the iron off and then I pressed with a block of wood, I used my tailor's clapper, (I used to sew A LOT), until the mat board was cool, maybe a minute or so. Seems to work well.

We need to cut out the hole for the sink. Center the counter top on the cabinet base and mark where the hole is on the front of the counter top.

If you can put your sink into the base, set the counter top next to it and slide the sink out to match the front of the counter top.

Now, measure from the back of the cabinet base to the sink.
In this picture I've got my cabinet base on it's back to measure. My back is slightly con-caved and I want my cabinet to fit flat against the wall.

Looks like the sink is 3/8" from the back edge of the cabinet.

Draw your lines to cut on.

Cut out the hole.

Let's do a dry fit!

To fill gaps around the counter top glue on narrow strips of card stock. Especially along the back where you can see the layers of mat board. Paint will not cover that up.

*Note: We've been layering mat board together to make ogee edges. There's no reason not to try a couple of layers of card stock for a layer and make a different profile. You can add different combinations of thicknesses to create new profiles.

PART FIVE, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:35:00.000-06:00

I'm making a hole in the shelf to match the one in my sink. We'll make a drain in the finishing part.

I've used Delta's PermEnamel Country Tomato for the base coat on the counter top. I've sanded the first coat.
*Note: Be careful sanding. Your counter top has a thin middle at the back where the sink goes in. This is very easy to bend.
Apply another coat of base paint. I sand with 400 grit paper. I will apply at least 3 base coats.

I've got the last coat on the counter top. I've buffed it with a wadded piece of brown paper.

I'm back at the sink. This is my third application of gesso. I will probably apply one more coat to smooth things out.

Lets review the sink and gesso.

The first coat I applied with a spatula or a strip of mat board, smoothed out with a wet brush, mine was a camel hair #4. Let dry over night.
You can sand this coat if you want to when it's dry.
My next coat was applied with a stiff flat brush. I pushed gesso into the cracks. Again, I used a soft wet brush to smooth everything out. I am painting the front, too. Let dry.

The third coat I put the gesso on a plate and used the flat brush to bring water to the gesso, mix it a bit. The consistency should be like thick paint. Use the flat brush to paint and fill. Use the soft wet brush to smooth.

I am adding water to the gesso and I am painting the gesso on the sink, inside and on the front. Paint the sides and a little of the bottom.

You can also mix your paint with the gesso and paint that on, it works well, too.

I should be finished with the fourth coat. I'll let that dry over night.
I'll paint a couple of coats of Delta's Magnolia White, it's not white white, but not ivory. I'll apply a couple of coats, sanding the front of the sink to make it very smooth. To finish I'll use Delta's Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze. I like it because it dries hard. I apply a couple of coats, sanding the front smooth between coats.
With that, your sink should be finished.

I've placed a large box on my table, (where did she find the room in that mess?).
You will need a palette, toothbrush, and stick, maybe a popcicle stick and four colors of paint. At least, I used four colors. I used the Tomato Red, black, grey and mixed a not quite ivory.

You will want to practice on a scrap before you go to the counter top. You can always re-paint the counter top if you don't like it.

Dip your tooth brush into the paint and draw the stick toward you to spatter the paint.

Play with it.

I've done my not quite ivory.

I've changed the position of the counter top and spattered my black and grey.
I've spattered the red, too. That's to fill in where the other colors may be too much.

You can go back and add spots with a tooth pick or small brush.

Don't over work it, this supposed to be random. Leaving it random works out much better most of the time.

Lookin' good.

Let the paint dry and then apply at least 2 coats of Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

After the clear coats are dry, sand using 400 grit paper. I wrapped my sand paper around a wood block for flat sanding.
Be careful at the edges, if you do sand off your base coat, touch up, let dry and apply another couple of coats of the Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

We are applying a lot of coats of varnish because we want the top to be smooth. When the paint was spattered on it left the surface pebbly. To smooth that out so it looks like granite we have to apply the varnish a couple of coats at a time and sand until the top is smooth.
When you are satisfied with the surface let the last coat dry.
When the last coat is dry use #0000 steel wool to buff the surface. Use wadded brown paper after that. That should give the surface the right patina for granite.

*Note: Watch out for the steel wool debris. Mine fell to my table top and into the brush I subsequently used to put what I thought was going to be my final coat of varnish on my sink. "Where did all those tiny bits of stuff some from?" More painting.

PART SIX, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:30:00.001-06:00

We are going to make the small crown moulding at the top of the upper cabinets. I am showing one length being made. You will need two. Make the lengths at least 8" long.

Cut three strips of mat board 1" wide.

Glue two of the strips together.

Round off one long edge on each piece.

Cut the single layer 3/16" wide. Set this aside.

Round off a long edge on the left over single piece.

Cut another strip that's 5/32" wide.

I am sorry about that measurement. Keep your pencils and blades sharp.

Cut a strip of the doubled piece of mat board 1/8" wide. That's on the right.

The pieces cut from the single piece are on the left.

Glue the 5/32" piece onto the 3/16" piece. Those are the two single layers.

Now, glue the 1/8" wide piece, that's the mat board that's been glued double, onto the 5/32" piece.
Keep the back flat, you should be able to see four layers on the back. If you don't, reposition the pieces.
Can you see the shape? See what you can do with mat board!!

Glue to strips of card stock together.

Cut a strip 1/4" wide.

Glue the card stock strip to the back of the assembly you have glued together.
Make another length.

Isn't this nice? Think about it, you could make a bigger crown mould, you could make base board, too. I'm not saying to do a whole doll house, but certainly room boxes or small projects.

This is a picture I drew of the valance that goes over the sink.
The top is 3/8" wide and 2-1/2" long. You draw this out, too, you are going to make a pattern. The sides are 1/4" wide and 1-1/2" long. Use a compass to draw the curve. I've left 1/4" of space in the center at the top and 3/4" at the sides.

Cut from mat board 2 pieces 3/8" x 2-1/2", glue these together. Cut 4 pieces 1/4" x 1-1/2", glue these together, 2 each.

Go back to your pattern and cut out the curve.

Use this pattern to trace onto mat board your curved piece.

Cut out 2 and glue them together.

Glue the top and sides together.

Mark the center and mark 3/16" on either side and continue marking 3/16" until you have 13 marks.

To transfer your marks slide the curved piece into the valance. Use a square or ruler to transfer the marks.

Use a "T" to make holes in the center of the mat board. This will make it easier to start your drill bit where it should be. Do this for the top and the bottom curved piece.
For the spindles we are going to use 18 gauge bright florist's wire, that's the unwrapped silver colored kind. I used tooth picks to try this out but they were too big and klunky looking.
It's easier to start with a small bit and work up to the size of bit diameter you need for the wire. When you are drilling, squeeze the mat board together.

Cut the wire at about 1-1/4" and glue into the top piece. I used wood glue for this. Once the bottom is glued in the pieces have no where to go.
Slip your bottom in, keep it even with the bottom of the sides.
Use a marker to trace where the top of the curve is.

Trim the wire leaving a little extra to go into the bottom piece.

You can dry fit and if all is well glue the wires and the sides together.

Your valance is done.

We are making 2 upper cabinets.

Cut 2 pieces of mat board 1-1/2" x 2-3/4". These are the cabinet faces.

Measure and mark from the outside edges 1/2" down from the top, one short side and 1/4" from the other 3 sides.

Cut this center out.

The sides are 15/16" x 2-3/4", cut 4.

Glue the sides onto the fronts.

The sides are glued to the back of the fronts, see how the cut side of the front is showing.

The backs are 1-3/8" x 2-3/4". Cut 2

Glue these between the sides.

Cut the bottoms and tops 7/8" x 1-3/8", cut 4.

Glue the tops and bottoms into the
cabinets.

*Note: Upper cabinets are usually a foot deep, 1 inch to us.

The bottom layer of the doors are 1-1/4" x 2-1/4". Cut 2.

The top layer of the doors are 1-1/8" x 2-1/8". Cut 2.

Measure and mark 3/16" in from all four edges on the 4 pieces you just cut.

Use an oval template to mark a curve on the 1-1/8" x 2-1/8" pieces.

Round using sand paper all four of the edges on all four pieces.

Cut the center out of the layers.

Center and glue the smaller layer, the one with the curved top, onto the larger bottom layer.

These are your upper cabinet doors. To finish these we will glue in some acrylic and then some pretty curtains.

Hey, guys, I'm worn out! Next month I'll write about how I finished the cabinet. I'll show you how I made the hardware, too.

Until next month,

HAVE FUN, EXPAND ON IT, MAKE BETTER . . . . . . JUST KEEP MAKING MINIS

COMPUTER CRASHED!!

2011-12-31T13:50:00.000-06:00

Hi Guys, I am starting the New Year off right, my computer crashed. I am having Windows 7 put on my computer, it's going to take a few days. I have a hard copy of all of my clients' e-mails. If you want to send a new e-mail to the camceiling@ frontiernet.net address to make sure I have it, you may.

Will update you all soon. TTYL Kris

Sabby Chic Card Stock Bed with No-Sew Mattress Tutorial -- How to make a bed using card stock and making a mattress with no sewing.

2011-12-16T14:19:00.002-06:00

I saw this bed on-line at a full-size furniture site and thought it would be a good candidate for card stock. For this tutorial I am making a twin size. You can adjust the size for whatever you need, the instructions would be the same. I hope to have a picture of it painted by the end of this blog, I am waiting for the glue to dry.
We are going to make the mattress and box spring first. I was lucky when I found this fabric, I shop Goodwill for fabrics I can use. I saw this shirt and thought, "mattress".

For the box spring cut 3 pieces of foam core. I am showing the label of the foam core I use. Cut the foam core 3-1/4" (82mm) x 6-1/4" (16 cm). Glue them together, I use tacky glue. For the mattress cut 2 pieces of foam core 3-1/4" (82mm) x 6-1/4" (16 cm). Glue them together, also.

This is my box spring and mattress.

Trace around the bottom of the box spring onto card stock, cut out the

card stock.

Ever so slightly round the corners of the mattress and box spring by rocking them on your table. Just take the sharpness off.

Apply glue stick to the card stock. (**TIP: I use a piece of computer photo paper to set my card stock on when I am applying the glue stick. For some reason glue dries on the photo paper and you can use it forever without it being sticky.)
Glue the card stock to your fabric.

Glue the card stock to the bottom of the box spring using a tacky glue, I am showing you what I use.

Apply tacky glue to the sides and glue the fabric to the sides. Glue the corners together and clip them off.

Measure the width of your box spring and cut card stock just a bit narrower. Cut enough card stock to go all around the box spring.
If you have to glue pieces of card stock together to get your length use yellow carpenter's glue. I sand the seams a bit to smooth them out. Dry fit your length.

Apply glue stick to the card stock. I am using my photo paper so I can get the edges glued without getting glue on my table.

Glue the card stock to your fabric.

Clip the corner from each side.

Glue one long side up using the tacky fabric glue.

Clip the fabric like I have in the picture for both ends.

Turn the ends to the card stock and glue down.

Apply tacky fabric glue to the sides of the box spring and glue the card stock on.

Be careful when you are doing this, don't pull the card stock, it will stretch and become longer than you need.

I've made my ends meet on the end.

Clip "V" notches at the corners and glue the extra fabric down.

Set the box spring aside.

Place the mattress on a piece of poster board and trace around. Cut the poster board out.

Do the same with a piece of card stock. Apply glue stick to the card stock and glue your fabric to it. Glue the card stock to the mattress using fabric tacky glue.

Use tacky fabric glue to glue the extra fabric to the sides of the mattress. Glue the corners together and cut off.

For making the mattress soft I am using Thermolam Plus. It's a firm, dense batting I buy from the bolt at Joann's. I am showing a picture of the thickness.

Cut 3 pieces of Thermolam Plus. The first piece is about 1/8" smaller all around, the second piece fits to the edge and the third piece is slightly larger, to be trimmed later.

I want you to get started on your buttons now. Dampen a piece of card stock, best way: lay it between layers of damp paper towel.
After it's damp use a 1/8" paper punch and punch at least a 12 circles.

Lay the damp circles onto a couple of layers of craft foam and use a stylus to shape them. The one I am using is from Micheal's and is a large ball stylus. I used the smaller end.
Push the circles into the foam and let them dry. Set this aside.

See how I am really pressing the circle into the foam?

When the circles dry they will retain their shape better than if you just used dry card stock to start with.

Mark on your poster board where you want your buttons to be. For this size I used 10 buttons, 5 on each side.
Turn the poster board over and use tacky fabric glue to glue the smaller piece of Therolam Plus and the second piece that just fits to the poster board. (My picture was blurred, so I am talking you through this.) Lay the larger piece on top. Now, lay this assembly onto your fabric and cut out, leaving extra all around to glue onto the sides of the mattress.

I used a doubled thread with a knot and starting from the poster board side with the marks I sewed through all layers and came back to the poster board side. I did this twice for all of the marks. I pulled tight and went to the next mark. I knotted off when I ran out of thread and started again.

This is the top of the mattress with the button dimples sewn in.
Trim the Thermolam Plus even with the poster board.

Using the fabric tacky glue, glue the mattress top to the mattress foam core.

Apply fabric tacky glue to the sides of the mattress and glue the extra fabric down. Glue the corners together and clip off.

We're getting there.

Measure the corner of the mattress for the width of the card stock that will be glued onto the sides.

Cut the side from card stock, cut it slightly narrower than your measurement. Dry fit for length, glue pieces together if you have to.

Apply glue stick to the card stock and glue the fabric to it.

Clip the ends as I have them in the picture.

Using the fabric tacky glue I've glued all four sides to the back onto the card stock.

Glue the side to the mattress using the fabric tacky glue.

This maybe a repeat for some of you for piping instructions.

Cut a piece of your fabric on the bias.

I had to glue my fabric together to get a piece long enough to go around my mattress.

Cut a piece of crochet thread the length you need for your mattress.

Apply fabric tacky glue to the edge of the fabric. Smear it toward the edge.

Lay the crochet thread on the glue.

Press the crochet thread into the glue.

This is where my directions have changed a bit.

Carefully fold the edge over the crochet thread. Be sure you get the crochet thread in the fold.

Press the fabric down with your hand.

Run your fingernails along and into the crochet thread. This seals the fabric together, press hard and pull toward the edge with your fingernails. Turn the fabric over and do the same thing on that side. Turn the fabric over back to the beginning and do the same thing.

Use sharp scissors and cut the piping from the fabric.

When you are cutting, cut very close, slightly pulling with the scissors against the piping.

Roll the piping on your table to make it round. Press hard to seal the glue even more.

To make another piece cut away the glued edge and start again. We need a piece for top and bottom.

Glue the piping into the seam where the side is glued on. Use the fabric tacky glue.

Later in the tutorial I have a note about where to get precision glue bottles.

Glue the next piece to the bottom of the mattress.

Almost done.

I painted my buttons. I wrapped tape around a piece of wood, the tape having the sticky side up. Used my tweezers to set my buttons on the tape.

I used an off-white I mixed using Delta's PermEnamel. Let Dry.

Apply fabric tacky glue into the dimples on the mattress and set your buttons.

At this point you can use this mattress as a prop in an attic scene.

You can glue to mattress and box spring together.

Or you can leave them separate to put into a bed for dressing. I would make a fitted bottom sheet and then glue the 2 together and then continue to dress the bed.

On to the bed. Transfer the patterns to a program that lets you change sizes. The dimensions of the head board are: 3-7/8" (98mm) wide and 3-7/8" (87mm) tall.

Use the foot board pattern to trace onto scraps of foam core a mould we will use to shape the foot board.
I have glued and stacked five pieces of foam core together. If you want you can glue card stock onto the curved edge to even up this side.

Cut 3 pieces of card stock 4-3/4" (121mm) x 1-1/2" (38).

Using yellow carpenter's glue to glue these 3 pieces together, I have 2 pieces glued together in the picture.

Bend the 3 pieces around the foot board mould and hold with rubber bands.

Let this dry over night.

Trace the head board pattern 3 times and cut out.

Glue using yellow carpenter's glue, glue the 3 head board patterns together.

Smooth the surface with your hand.

Use yellow carpenter's glue to glue the rest of the bed together.

Another tip: always, always dry fit before gluing.

Cut from mat board 8 pieces 3-11/16" (94mm) x 1/4" (7mm) for the bed posts.

Glue these together, 2 each. When you are finished you should have 4 pairs glued together.

Glue the posts to the head board by gluing 1 pair in back and 1 pair in front. Glue the leg together below the head board and clamp until dry.

Make sure the posts are flush with the edge of the head board.

Measure between the posts and cut 3 strips of card stock 1/2" (13mm) wide.

Glue them together and then glue them to the bottom of the head board.

Measure 7/8" (22mm) up from the top of the card stock strip you just glued on and make a mark on each side.

Cut 3 strips of card stock to fit between the posts, 5/16" (8mm) wide.
Glue the strips together and glue this strip onto the head board on top of the marks you made leaving 7/8" between the two strips of card stock.

Trace the top of the head board pattern onto card stock.

Measure 1/4" (7mm) down from the top edge and draw a new line.

Cut this new pattern out.

Trim off 1/4" (7mm) each side, (that's where the posts are).

Dry fit this pattern on the head board and trim if needed.

Trace 3 of these new patterns onto card stock.

Glue these pieces together.

Dry fit before gluing, glue the top curve onto the head board.

For added surface decoration I cut 3 more top curve patterns and then trimmed them narrower. I then glued these onto the top curve one at a time.

It's the next day!!

Remove the foot board from the mould.

Cut 16 pieces of mat board 1-1/2" (38mm) x 1/4" (7mm).

Glue them together in pairs just as you did for the head board posts.
When you're finished you should have 8 pairs.

In this picture I have all ready glued on a bed post on the inside of the foot board. Don't do that just yet.

I want you to cut out a little of the foot board before gluing the posts on.

At the bottom of each side cut a notch, 1/8" (3mm) x 1/2" (13mm).

Next, I want you to glue a pair of posts to the inside of each end of the foot board. Make sure the edges are flush.
Cut 2 side boards from mat board 1/2" (13mm) x 6" (153mm).

Glue 1 side board into each notch.

Now, you can glue the other pair of posts to the outside of each side of the foot board.

Clamp until dry.

When the end posts are dry you can remove the clamps.

Glue on the other pairs of posts just after the curve of the foot board.

These next few pictures are of what I did before it dawned on me that the EASIER route would be to use toothpicks as a base for the legs. Cut the toothpicks 1" (2.5cm) long. Measure the legs of the head board, they should be 5/8", but you measure your legs to be sure. Mark that length on your toothpick. Next, measure 1/16" down from that mark and make another mark. This new mark is where the paper will be glued for the winding.

On to what I did.

I cut "Q"Tips to 5/8", the length of my legs.

I've made the mark for where I will glue the paper for winding.

The legs are "decorative turnings", we are going to make them with paper.
Cut a piece of paper 6" (153mm) wide. Now, measure 5/16" (8mm) at the top left corner, mark.
Lay a straight edge at this mark and to the bottom left corner. Cut this with your craft knife.

For the next triangle measure 5/16" at the bottom left corner, mark. Use the straight edge and cut to the top left corner.

Make 4 triangles.

You started with a straight edge on your paper, so your triangles have one straight edge and one slanted edge. I marked the straight edge with an "x".

My triangles.

Glue the triangle onto your leg. You will have a toothpick with 2 marks 1/16" apart. Glue the top straight edge to that second mark you made on your toothpick.

Is this too confusing, I am sorry.

Apply a little glue to the paper and wind, keeping the top even.

With the straight edge on one side of the triangle we were able to keep the top even and get this shape.

In this picture you can see I've added more paper.
I cut paper 1/16" and a little wider, not an 1/8", just a little wider than a 1/16".
I glued the paper as I wound 5 to 6 times around the leg.

This is where I thought, "Gee, I should have used toothpicks to start with."
I drilled a hole into the top of the leg I made and glued a toothpick into that hole. We have to dowel the legs on, butt gluing won't do for legs.

This is what your legs should look like.
I have my toothpicks a little longer that an inch here.
Can you see the 1/16" at the top where the "Q"Tip stops and the toothpick starts?

I've drilled holes into the bottom of the posts to receive the legs.

I want you to dry fit the legs before gluing. You can shorten your toothpicks a bit, but glue at least 1/4" into the post.
Do you see that I have the 1/16" space between the post the the first "decorative turning"?

Cut 2 strips of mat board about 5/16" (8mm) wide and 5-7/8" (149mm) long. These are the bed rails.
Dry fit these before gluing in, they should be even with the end of the side boards. Butt glue these to the side boards. Let this dry.

Cut yourself some 1/4" wide strips, I've cut too many here. I went crazy with my paper cutter.

These strips are glued to the foot board, top and bottom on the outside and to the top on the inside.
Cut and dry fit these strips before gluing. Glue on the layers one at a time, glue on 3 layers.

Showing the inside of the foot board.

I've cut some narrower strips, they are probably 1/16". I cut them by eye.

These narrower strips are glued on one at a time, 3 layers just as you did for the wider strips. Be sure to dry fit before gluing.

I have found a place on-line to buy some great precision glue bottles and tips.
www.quilledcreations.com

The tip on the right does not come with a bottle, but I think it will fit onto the smallest Tacky Glue bottle. Use up the glue and put the new tip on for your carpenter's glue.

To cover the layers of card stock I cut a strip of card stock and glued this onto the edge of the head board and posts.

I also cut a strip to cover the edge of the side of the head board's posts.

I traced the top of the foot board onto card stock for a cover. Cut out and trim and dry fit.

I trimmed the card stock and glued it onto the top of the foot board.

I used a boarder punch I had for the surface decoration on the foot board and head board.

I also added a diamond on the top of each post.

I punched 3 of everything and glued on each layer separately.

I'm using toothpicks for the knobs for the top of the posts, yippee!

I cut off the pointed tips of the toothpicks and sanded them round.

You will make 6 knobs. I cut the toothpicks in half.

We are going to wind paper around the toothpicks. These triangles will have both sides slanted.
To do this cut a piece of paper 8" (203mm) wide.
From the top left corner measure 1/4" (7mm). Use a straight edge from this mark to the bottom left corner and cut the first triangle, discard this one.

Measure 1/4" from the bottom left corner and use the straight from that mark to the top left corner and cut the first triangle. Measure from the top left corner, use the straight to the bottom corner and cut the second triangle. Continue this way until you have cut 6 triangles.
Measure from the top rounded end of your toothpick 1/16" and mark. Glue the wide end of the triangle to the toothpick and start winding, adding a little glue as you go.

I've drilled holes in the top of the posts for my knobs. Dry fit first then glue the knobs in.

Glue the head board to the side board/bed rails.

From the picture you can also see I've glued pieces of mat board to fit between the rails to hold more of the mattress.

I don't like butt gluing, you don't have much surface that is glued, it won't hold well.
I scored and folded a piece of card stock and glued it into the corner where the side board is glued to the head board. This will help the head board stay on a little better.

Let the bed dry before you start painting.
I don't think this bed takes any real skill to make. As with anything in miniatures it takes time and patience. The bed and mattress/box spring took me 2 days to make, painting not included. I think it will be a real special piece in your miniature bedroom.

I've got the bed painted. I painted the whole thing Delta's Magnolia White and I used acrylic gesso to fill in the lines on the legs and knobs. I sprayed the whole thing with a satin clear finish. I used Delta's Lisa Pink and mixed a glaze with it to paint around on the bed. Then I took a dark brown and glaze and dabbed in the corners and cracks. After that I took some 400 grit sandpaper and sanded around where I thought it needed it. I sprayed the whole thing with a clear satin spray, and it's done!

I do hope you try this out, it's not hard to do. It would make a great club project, too.

Have a Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, too

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis.

Kris
P.S. if you want to see where I got the idea, www.thepepperkids.com under furniture, the country french bed. You'll be able to make the rest of the furniture for the room.

No-Sew Austrian Valance

2011-11-19T11:48:00.001-06:00

I am excited about this tutorial. I have been sewing for 40 years and love fabric. I used to own a fabric store, too. I love dissecting how things are made. I saw this valance in a catalog, Country Curtains, full-size curtains. Very pretty. This valance intrigued me and I wanted to make it miniature for you. I sewed it together at first, and for those that have a sewing machine you can sew it together instead of gluing. I know not everybody has a sewing machine and hand sewing can be tedious so I tried gluing and it worked just fine!

These are the patterns for the valance. Copy them into a program that you can change sizes. The single pattern measures 8-1/2" (206mm) from side to side and 4-1/16" (106mm) from top to the bottom, not including the "tails". The double pattern measures 7-7/16" (188mm) from side to side and 4-1/16" (106mm) from top to the bottom, not including the "tail". You may want to adjust the pattern sizes to your own tastes.

Trace the pattern onto your lining fabric. Cut out on the traced line.

In this picture I am tracing the double pattern. I am matching the middle.

The pencil line is light, but I think you can see that I've traced the double pattern onto the lining fabric.

I've cut out both the single and double patterns. I am using the same fabric for the lining as my "valance" fabric. You could use a different fabric for the lining for contrast.

This fabric is the "valance" fabric, the fabric that will show.
For the single valance cut a piece 8-1/2 (216mm) x 7-1/4" (185mm).
For the double valance cut a piece 15-1/4" x 7-1/4". I am sorry I don't have the CM measurement right now. Please Google a conversion for that measurement.

Trace just the bottom of the patterns.

Trace on the right side of the fabric.

Now, measure and draw a new line 1/8" (3mm) from your original line.

Apply a line of glue onto the original line.

I use Aleene's No-Sew Fabric Glue.

I know it says temporary, but I use this all of the time and for miniatures it stays together. We are going to machine wash these curtains, I least I don't think I will. This glue usually doesn't soak through and leave marks behind.

With right sides together, lay the lining onto your valance fabric with the lining on the second line you drew.
You will have a little extra fabric that you will have to "ease" in, distribute the fabric evenly and press with a hot iron to seal the glue.

Trim the extra valance fabric from the bottom.

Cut "V" notches into the "seam allowance". Remember it's only an 1/8 of an inch, don't cut too deep.

These notches allow the curves to be turned and lay flat.

I've turned the valances to the right sides and pressed with a hot iron.

Lay the pattern onto the lining side of the valance matching the bottom. Trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the valance fabric.

I've traced both patterns onto my fabric.

I have no idea why this silly blogger with turn some of my pictures. We will just have to deal with it!

Now, measure from the line you just drew and on the sides add an 1/8" (3mm) and draw a new line.
Measure from the line you just drew and add 7/16" (11mm) to the top outside edge and draw a new line.

This picture worked!

This is showing the double valance with the new lines drawn.

This is the casing we are adding on.

Measuring from the raw edge of the lining, measure 3/8" (1cm) and draw another line.

Trim that 3/8" off the lining.

We don't need any bulk included in the casing.

Apply glue to this edge and seal with a hot iron.

Fold over the 1/8" on each side of the valance.

Seal with a hot iron.

The sides have been glued down.

To make the casing lay flat when folded you will have to cut 3 "V" notches at the top and make 1 cut into each bottom curve.

For the double pattern you will have to make about 3 cuts in the middle to get the curve to lay flat.

Use the pattern as a guide to fold the casing over. Be careful and don't burn your fingers.

This pictures shows the casing pressed into place.

Apply glue to the edge of the casing and press with a hot iron to seal.

Do you see the notch that the cut left? We have to fill that in or the casing will be loose in that area and we will see it on the right side.

This is in the middle of the double valance.

Cut a curved piece of fabric and apply glue to the edges of the "V" notch.

Glue the curved piece of fabric to the casing.

Now, glue the bottom of this piece of fabric down like the rest of the casing.

I have the middle done on the double valance.

Press the valances with a hot iron to finish.

We are going to make the curtain rod from mat board.

Cut the mat board 1/4" (7mm) wide.
For the double pattern cut the mat board 12-5/8" long. Please use a Google conversion for this measurement. Mark the center at 6-5/16 (160mm). From each side of the center mark measure 2-13/16" (72mm). From these new marks measure a 1/2" (12mm).
With back of your craft knife score on all of the lines except the center.

For the single pattern valance cut the mat board at 1/4" wide.
Cut the mat board 9" (228mm) long.
Mark the center at 4-1/2" ( 114mm). Measure from each side of center 1-7/8" (48mm) and make marks.
From these new marks measure 1/2".
With the back of your craft knife score on all lines except the center.

You can change these measurements to suit your tastes.

Thread your curtain rod through the casing.

Ease the fabric through curves carefully.

I glued the valance at the last mark on each side.

I put the shortest length, the part right before the tail, at the corner of the curtain rod.

Overlap the mat board at the back. Make sure your front and back are the same length.

This is the double valance.

Do you see the shortest length at the corners? The valance ends the the last mark you made. The 1/2" stands out from the wall.

The folded mat board makes a box to hold the draperies. That's the 1/2" we measured that's holding the draperies.

When you have your draperies made just glue them into the box and glue the whole assembly to the top of your window.

I am going to let you follow the excellent directions with the Pretty Pleater for your draperies.

I hope you are as happy with the results as I was! TTYL Kris

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . . .Just keep making minis! ! !

About this month's tutorial

2011-11-13T21:29:00.000-06:00

Hi, I will be using d. Anne Ruff's Pretty Pleater, the 1 inch scale pleater, for this month's tutorial. You will be able to make the "No-Sew" Austrian Valance without the draperies if you don't have the pleater right now. TTYL Kris

To: glendav.7*******

2011-11-06T07:38:00.001-06:00

My e-mail was undeliverable, I am sorry. I thank you for your compliments. I do plan a tutorial on the kitchen cabinets in the corner cabinet, thanks to you for suggesting it. I made the cabinets from bass wood, if I would have known then what I know now about the wonders of mat board and card stock I wouldn't have done that. I will have to make a change for the decorative posts, I did turn those and sawed them in half. I think I have a nice alternative, though.

For November I have a "No-Sew Austrian Valance" to show you all how to do. I am excited about it.

TTYL Kris

Question?

2011-11-04T08:37:00.000-05:00

I've been asked what kind of card stock I use. I buy Georgia-Pacific white card stock, 110 weight. I buy it by the ream at Wal-Mart. The trick is the yellow carpenter's glue, it dries hard. I have another bed in mind to make for the tutorial in the early months of next year. NEXT YEAR! I can't believe it.
TTYL Kris

Tribute to Card Stock !

2011-10-27T12:29:00.001-05:00

Hi Everybody!
Had to post this picture of the "sleigh" bed I made. This was a very special order from a long time customer. She needed a bed for her Santa and she wanted a old sleigh to do the job. The sleigh is made entirely from card stock. I cut wood moulds and used yellow glue to glue the layers together, drying on the moulds. The candle is a "Q-Tip" just like from the Candle Sconce tutorial. The "Q-Tip" runs through the bottom of the lantern and I added card stock embellishments. The "glass" in the lantern is an old play lipstick top from my youngest daughter, it's been in my bin for at least 12 years!? Never throw anything out! I used a holly punch for the decoration, card stock, 3 layers. We are going to use that in a tutorial that's coming up.

Got to get back to work or do the dishes . . . . . . . . Kris