Dollhouse Miniature Furniture - Tutorials | 1 inch minis

ANOTHER ROOMBOX

2012-02-12T10:26:00.002-06:00

This is a roombox I made a while ago. "Princess of Quite A Lot". I like Mary Engelbreit designs so I decided to create a roombox with her flavor. The basic design came from a Mary E. post it note.

The little shelf in the foyer is from Mott's book of furniture patterns. The rocking chair is made from beech wood, this looks a little like oak wood in miniature. The pattern for that came from Mott's pattern book, also. The stove is Chrysnbon, of course. I've always wanted a painted floor in my house so I painted this floor with a design I found on Mary E. post it notes. The lamp shades on the sconces, (they are really candle holder sconces) are the screw caps from tubes of frosting. I bought frosting just the other day and found they had changed the packaging! No more lamp shades : ( I always liked the frosting caps better than the toothpaste caps. The edge had a wider pleat. I had a terrible time needle pointing the picture, glad I did it, but I won't be doing any more tiny, tiny needle pointing! My husband bought the plates for me and there was no signature on them. The little grey rabbit in the rocking chair is from a pattern from the book "Furnish a Doll's House" by Michal Morse. The sewing stand is a copy of my friend's full size sewing stand. I am going to make a pattern for this and make it in mat board for the blog later this year. Remind me if you don't see it !!

I like making roomboxes with nooks so I made this one to house a table and chair set. I found the chairs in an advertisement in Miniature Collector. An artisan was having a class at the Chicago show and she had a picture of the chairs she was making. I don't sell these chairs but I did make a pair for myself. I wanted the window to be different so I made up a design with 3 small panes at the top and 2 large panes at the bottom.

I bought fabric with Mary E. sayings and designs and cut it up. I cut out the "Princess of Quite A Lot" and made a rug. I had to paint in some of the design since another saying overlapped it. I glued it onto card stock and made fringe for the edge. By the time the project was over that piece of fabric looked like Swiss cheese!
The table cloth started out as a white square. I cut and glued the border on using bits and pieces. The checker board is a scrap booking border. I used "Wonder Under" to make some parts of the fabric "iron on". The flowers on the bottom table cloth was made this way. I know it was crazy to cut all of those flowers out singly but I did it anyway and ironed them on the way I wanted it to look.
The small table if from a full size furniture pattern book. Even the doilies came from the Mary E. fabric.

I wanted to show you the wind chime. I saw this in the "Home Companion", that's Mary Engelbreit's magazine. I made the teapot, cup and saucer from Fimo and used Chrysnbon spoons. So cute.

Some of you may know I have a pet rabbit that runs loose in my breeze way were I work. His name is Ginger. Before I had him, though, I had another. My kids saved him from dogs. The former owners got tired of him and dumped him out here in the country. He was white and definitely a tame rabbit, they thought, "A rabbit is a rabbit." Well, the dogs were chasing him, we don't have dogs so they weren't our dogs. My kids heard the racket and went to find out what was going on and they brought this big white rabbit in the house. I took to him quickly and he was "Bunny". He passed away and I remembered him by putting the rabbits in my roombox. He looked a little like the one on the floor by the checkered chair, not white/white, but not grey either.

I hoped you liked the tour. I am going to begin work on the February blog, finishing the kitchen cabinets.

TTYL Kris

NEWS FLASH !!

2012-02-01T14:49:00.003-06:00

Hi Guys,
I just tried something with piping. I had to make some pillows and was using fabric that I didn't want to make that diagonal bias cut. I had never tried making piping with the straight grain, I did mention it in the pillow tutorial for you or I try at a later date. In full-size sewing cording is made with fabric cut on the bias, it turns the corners better. Sooooo, I made the piping with a straight cut of fabric and I am pleased with the results. I think I will still use the bias for striped fabrics but it's good to know the piping will work both ways.
Talk to you soon, Kris

JANUARY TUTORIAL

2012-01-18T13:48:00.001-06:00

Thank you Klara!!! That section would flash up at me when I would begin and then disappear and I didn't know how to get it back. . . . Post Options!! So cool, thank you so much. My followers are the greatest!!

Hope you all enjoy the tutorial. We will finish them next month, Kris

KITCHEN CABINETS - How to make contemporary kitchen cabinets from mat board.

2012-01-18T13:47:00.001-06:00

These are pictures of my corner cabinet doll house. There are more pictures in the blog under "Pictures of Room Boxes" in the left margin under THINGS TO DO, THINGS TO SEE.

I made my cabinets from wood, that's before I realized the wonderfulness of mat board. Believe me if I had known about what could be done with mat board I would have made them from mat board. Much less investment in tools and materials! The most you would need to invest in is a mat board cutting system, with all the bells and whistles that's about $100.00. BUT YOU CAN STILL DO THIS WITH JUST YOUR KRAFT KNIFE. So don't NOT try this out!!

I am married to a cabinet maker. From him I've learned how to build correctly, from wood, cabinets. Mullions, stiles, rails, faces, all the terms I've learned from him. Some things we will use, some things we'll do because we are using mat board, not wood. I've blended things I've learned from him and things I've developed working with mat board. In the end you'll have cabinets that will look designer professional. No need to wish for that fabulous kitchen you saw in the mini-mags . . . .YOU CAN DO THIS.

After you read this you should be able to go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy one of those beautiful books full of designer kitchens and pick one out to make yourself, really. That's what I've done, that's where the ideas come from. Search the Inter-Net for standard sizes and convert to 1 inch scale, 1 inch equals 1 foot, 1/2 inch equals 6 inches and so on. Counter tops are 2 foot wide, that's 2 inches, cabinet bases are 36 inches tall, including the counter top, that's 3 inches. We are making the sink base, it would be 6 foot long in full-size, it's 6 inches in 1 inch scale.

I am going to begin with the posts at the side. I've turned mine using my Dremel in the Work-Station, then sawed them half on my table saw. I don't think many of you have these tools, some might and please go ahead and make some turned posts. I've changed the posts so that they can be made from mat board. I want to make them first because the counter top has to have a lip, stick out, beyond the posts so I need to know just how thick they will be. I like measuring from the finished item, my husband would shake his head at me, "You should know this from measurements, the thickness of the material and figure back." Yeah, I said I use some of his stuff!

There are six parts published in this January blog. I will publish how to finish the cabinets in February.

PART TWO, KITCHEN CABINETS FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:46:00.004-06:00

*Keep your pencil sharp for better marking of measurements. Keep a sharp blade in your craft knife.

Glue a piece of card stock to a piece of mat board. Use yellow glue through out this tutorial.

Cut 2 pieces of this sandwich 1/4" x 2-7/8". Measure and mark 3 lines, evenly spaced onto the card stock side.

*2-7/8"? That's because the counter top will measure 1/8" or as close as we can get with 2 pieces of mat board, together that's going to be 3" or 3 foot in full-size.

Use a small ball stylus to press into the card stock side on the lines.

*I glued card stock to the mat board because when the ball stylus was used it would cause the mat board to separate. The lines are close together here, on the doors we won't need to do that, the lines are farther apart.

To build the post you need to cut from 1/4" wide mat board 2 pieces each: 1/4" x 1/2"; 1/4" x 7/16", (top pieces); 1/4" x 3/8" and 1/4" x 5/16, (bottom pieces).

Round with sand paper, (120 grit) of 1 short side of each of these pieces.

*When I say round I want you to make a "quarter round" edge, you are only rounding off the top edge or corner. You are not rounding off the whole side or both edges.

Glue the 1/2" and 7/16" pieces together matching 2 long sides and the un-sanded short end. Glue the 3/8" and 5/16" pieces together matching the same way as before.

Glue these assemblies to the 1/4" x 2-7/8" long piece with the lines. One set on top and one on the bottom. Match your sides evenly.

Now, we need to cut a "shoe mould".

*That's the piece of quarter round that goes at the bottom of the post. (This should also be at the bottom of base boards.) Quarter round is called quarter round because only one of the 4 corners is sanded round.

Round by sanding an end of a 1/4" wide strip of mat board.

Cut the end off, I cut mine at 3/32" wide.

I rounded with the bigger piece first because it is easier that trying to round this little piece after it's cut to width.

Glue your shoe mould onto the bottom of the posts.

Cut the front of the base cabinet, 2-7/8" x 6"

Set the posts onto each side of the cabinet base front. I set the posts 1/16" from the ends. Mark 1/16" from the inner edge of each post.

Mark and draw a center line on the front.
Measure up from the bottom a 1/4" and draw a line.

We are making the toe kick at the bottom front of the cabinet base.

I used a circle template to make the curved ends of the toe kick.

Cut the mat board out on the lines you drew.

You can glue the posts onto the front of your cabinet base.

Door and drawer faces are 1-3/16" wide with a 1/8" space between.

Cut a strip or strips of mat board 1-3/16" wide.
The doors are 1-1/2" long, cut 4.
The drawers are 11/16" long, cut 2.
This is the first layer of your doors and drawers
Don't glue them on, yet.

Cut another strip 1-1/16" wide.
For doors cut 4 pieces 1-3/8" long.
For drawers cut 2 pieces 9/16" long.
This is the second layer. We are going to make an ogee edge on the doors and drawers.
Make the drawer fronts first. Round off all for edges.
Center the small piece on the large piece and glue together. Make 2.

*Note: I've written before about the ogee reveal. I try by best to keep measurements from getting into the 32nds and 64ths. Sometimes I have to, though. Make a sample, if you want less of a reveal, the space between the edge of the top layer and the edge of the bottom layer, make you top layer a little larger. Not quite the whole 1/8" I have all around. This is your design, make them the way you would like to have them.

The door faces are decorative, something like the kitchen dresser from an earlier blog, (May, 2011).
On the smaller pieces for the door I measured in from all sides 3/16".

Again, you can change these measurements to suit your tastes. This is about technique, really.

Sand all for edges of these 8 pieces.

I used an oval template to make the curve at the top of the door. This is optional.

With a sharp blade in your craft knife cut the inside shape out of the top layer of your door faces.

Remember, several light cuts are better than 1 deep cut.

Center the top layer of the door faces onto the bottom layer.

Draw around the opening.

I measured and drew evenly space lines on the bottom layer of the door faces.

I used a small ball stylus to press into the mat board.

Center the top layer onto the bottom layer and glue the layers together.

Cool doors, huh?

Can you see it, yet?

Lay your drawers and doors on the front of the base cabinet. The doors should be about 1/8" from the bottom and the drawers should be about 3/16" from the top.
The space above the 2 center doors is where the farm house sink will go. We need to measure and cut out the space.

Measure 7/8" down from the top. If you have the drawers and doors where you want them, spaces between even to your eye, measure 1-3/4" in from each side of the front of the cabinet base.

Connect all the marks and draw lines.

Cut out the sink space.

I've got my doors and drawers just setting on the front. Don't glue them on yet, it's more realistic if you paint them separately.

PART THREE, KITCHEN CABINETS FROM MAT BOARD.

2012-01-18T13:45:00.001-06:00

Cut 2 strips of mat board 5-7/8" x 1-7/8". (I know my strips are wider than 1-7/8".) Glue them together.

Center this piece under the cabinet front, leave a 1/16" space at each side. The bottoms should be even.
Trace the toe kick area.

Cut the toe kick out.

Oh my, look at that messy cut!

Glue this piece, the big piece, to the back side of the cabinet base front. Center this so that there is a 1/16" space at each side and bottom is even. When we glue the toe kick's back in it will have some realistic depth to it. We won't be cutting and gluing the toe kick's back in until we get to the finishing of the cabinet.

With the posts glued on we can figure how wide the sides need to be. Remember, the counter top is 2" and we want a little lip past the post. This can be as little as the width of a fingernail but not more than a 1/16".

1-11/16" is what I'm going to cut the width of the side. That leaves a 1/16" past the post for the lip of the counter top.
Cut 2 at 2-7/8" x 1-11/16"
Glue the sides onto the cabinet front. The cut edge of the front shows on the sides. You don't glue onto the cut edge of the front.

The piece we glued to the front makes a nice "L" shape for the sides to be glued into.

For stabilization I want you cut some triangles to glue into the corners of the cabinet.

If you have a square, use it.

Glue the triangles into the cabinet base.
Glue the top ones level with the front and sides.
Glue the bottom triangles about a 1/4" up from the top of the toe kick.

For the back we need to cut a piece 2-7/8" x 5-7/8".
Before gluing into the cabinet base measure 7/8" down from the top, one long side. Draw a line. Cut a strip of mat board about 1/4" wide and about 3" long. Glue this right under the line you drew in the center of the back.
Now, glue the back into the cabinet base between the sides.

Here's the back glued in with that strip glued in.

Cut more triangles and glue them into the cabinet base.

Cut a piece of mat board 1-5/8" x 3". This is the shelf the sink sits on.

Glue this into the cabinet base.

The cabinet base is done, onto the sink.

PART FOUR, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:40:00.001-06:00

Cut a strip of mat board 7/8" wide and at least 9" long.
I know my sink is wide, but that's up to me. You can design your cabinets the width you need and the sink you need.
Cut 2 pieces a little less that 2-1/2". The opening is 2-1/2", we need room for gesso and paint. Don't cut more than a 1/16" less. The sides are 1-7/16". Glue the sides inside the back and front.

Cut a bottom to fit inside your sink.

Cut a hole for the drain. Mine's 1/4".

Set your sink into the cabinet base. If you need to trim the front edges of the cabinet on either side of the sink, try sanding the sink first to see if that will help. If it doesn't carefully trim the sides of the cabinet where the sink will go.
If you've made the sink too small you can "shim" out the front opening with narrow strips of card stock until the opening is right. This shimming is perfectly acceptable it's done all of the time is full-size.
The sink should be level with the top edge of the cabinet. If it's not you can add a shim to the shelf to level the sink.

Sand the top edges of the sink round, all the way round, taking off the two square edges. Sand the front corners round. I also sanded the bottom front edge a little.

Paint a layer of acrylic varnish on to seal. Let dry.

Now, to make this mat board box look like porcelain.
I've used gesso for years to shape wood into porcelain or porcelain covered cast iron.

I've used a piece of mat board to apply the first layer of gesso on the sink. If you have a spatula, use it.

Use a soft brush dipped in water to smooth out the surface as much at you can.

Let this first coat dry over night.

It's morning and my first coat is dry and it's got some cracking. That's all right, we will fill them in.
You can sand some of the rough spots off. I found using the soft wet brush while the gesso is wet is the best way to go, though. Not so much sanding after the gesso is dry.

I've applied another coat with a flat stiff brush to add more gesso and fill the cracks. I am going to use the wet brush to smooth it out.

I am adding gesso to the inside corners and the seam where the bottom meets the sides.
Set this aside to dry. You can add more gesso, smooth, let dry until you are satisfied with the surface.

While the sink is drying we will move onto the counter top.
I've got a 1/16" lip over the front, that's past the edge of the posts, so I am going to have a 1/16" past the sides. I'm going to cut the bottom layer of mat board 6-1/8" x 2". I want to make an ogee edge so I will cut the top layer 6" x 1-15/16". Only need the ogee on the front edge.

Sand round 2 short ends and one long side, that's your front. Glue the 2 pieces together keeping the un-sanded edges even and the small piece centered on the larger one.

*Note: I've been playing around with gluing mat board together and I think I've found something helpful.
When gluing two large pieces like the one we have here I used a DRY iron to set the glue. Be sure your pieces are stuck together and all excess glue has been wiped away. Set the iron to it's hottest setting and to dry, no steam, and press. Don't slide the iron, that can shift the pieces. I left the iron on for about 30 seconds, enough to get the heat through. I took the iron off and then I pressed with a block of wood, I used my tailor's clapper, (I used to sew A LOT), until the mat board was cool, maybe a minute or so. Seems to work well.

We need to cut out the hole for the sink. Center the counter top on the cabinet base and mark where the hole is on the front of the counter top.

If you can put your sink into the base, set the counter top next to it and slide the sink out to match the front of the counter top.

Now, measure from the back of the cabinet base to the sink.
In this picture I've got my cabinet base on it's back to measure. My back is slightly con-caved and I want my cabinet to fit flat against the wall.

Looks like the sink is 3/8" from the back edge of the cabinet.

Draw your lines to cut on.

Cut out the hole.

Let's do a dry fit!

To fill gaps around the counter top glue on narrow strips of card stock. Especially along the back where you can see the layers of mat board. Paint will not cover that up.

*Note: We've been layering mat board together to make ogee edges. There's no reason not to try a couple of layers of card stock for a layer and make a different profile. You can add different combinations of thicknesses to create new profiles.

PART FIVE, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:35:00.000-06:00

I'm making a hole in the shelf to match the one in my sink. We'll make a drain in the finishing part.

I've used Delta's PermEnamel Country Tomato for the base coat on the counter top. I've sanded the first coat.
*Note: Be careful sanding. Your counter top has a thin middle at the back where the sink goes in. This is very easy to bend.
Apply another coat of base paint. I sand with 400 grit paper. I will apply at least 3 base coats.

I've got the last coat on the counter top. I've buffed it with a wadded piece of brown paper.

I'm back at the sink. This is my third application of gesso. I will probably apply one more coat to smooth things out.

Lets review the sink and gesso.

The first coat I applied with a spatula or a strip of mat board, smoothed out with a wet brush, mine was a camel hair #4. Let dry over night.
You can sand this coat if you want to when it's dry.
My next coat was applied with a stiff flat brush. I pushed gesso into the cracks. Again, I used a soft wet brush to smooth everything out. I am painting the front, too. Let dry.

The third coat I put the gesso on a plate and used the flat brush to bring water to the gesso, mix it a bit. The consistency should be like thick paint. Use the flat brush to paint and fill. Use the soft wet brush to smooth.

I am adding water to the gesso and I am painting the gesso on the sink, inside and on the front. Paint the sides and a little of the bottom.

You can also mix your paint with the gesso and paint that on, it works well, too.

I should be finished with the fourth coat. I'll let that dry over night.
I'll paint a couple of coats of Delta's Magnolia White, it's not white white, but not ivory. I'll apply a couple of coats, sanding the front of the sink to make it very smooth. To finish I'll use Delta's Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze. I like it because it dries hard. I apply a couple of coats, sanding the front smooth between coats.
With that, your sink should be finished.

I've placed a large box on my table, (where did she find the room in that mess?).
You will need a palette, toothbrush, and stick, maybe a popcicle stick and four colors of paint. At least, I used four colors. I used the Tomato Red, black, grey and mixed a not quite ivory.

You will want to practice on a scrap before you go to the counter top. You can always re-paint the counter top if you don't like it.

Dip your tooth brush into the paint and draw the stick toward you to spatter the paint.

Play with it.

I've done my not quite ivory.

I've changed the position of the counter top and spattered my black and grey.
I've spattered the red, too. That's to fill in where the other colors may be too much.

You can go back and add spots with a tooth pick or small brush.

Don't over work it, this supposed to be random. Leaving it random works out much better most of the time.

Lookin' good.

Let the paint dry and then apply at least 2 coats of Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

After the clear coats are dry, sand using 400 grit paper. I wrapped my sand paper around a wood block for flat sanding.
Be careful at the edges, if you do sand off your base coat, touch up, let dry and apply another couple of coats of the Perm-Enamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

We are applying a lot of coats of varnish because we want the top to be smooth. When the paint was spattered on it left the surface pebbly. To smooth that out so it looks like granite we have to apply the varnish a couple of coats at a time and sand until the top is smooth.
When you are satisfied with the surface let the last coat dry.
When the last coat is dry use #0000 steel wool to buff the surface. Use wadded brown paper after that. That should give the surface the right patina for granite.

*Note: Watch out for the steel wool debris. Mine fell to my table top and into the brush I subsequently used to put what I thought was going to be my final coat of varnish on my sink. "Where did all those tiny bits of stuff some from?" More painting.

PART SIX, KITCHEN CABINETS MADE FROM MAT BOARD

2012-01-18T13:30:00.001-06:00

We are going to make the small crown moulding at the top of the upper cabinets. I am showing one length being made. You will need two. Make the lengths at least 8" long.

Cut three strips of mat board 1" wide.

Glue two of the strips together.

Round off one long edge on each piece.

Cut the single layer 3/16" wide. Set this aside.

Round off a long edge on the left over single piece.

Cut another strip that's 5/32" wide.

I am sorry about that measurement. Keep your pencils and blades sharp.

Cut a strip of the doubled piece of mat board 1/8" wide. That's on the right.

The pieces cut from the single piece are on the left.

Glue the 5/32" piece onto the 3/16" piece. Those are the two single layers.

Now, glue the 1/8" wide piece, that's the mat board that's been glued double, onto the 5/32" piece.
Keep the back flat, you should be able to see four layers on the back. If you don't, reposition the pieces.
Can you see the shape? See what you can do with mat board!!

Glue to strips of card stock together.

Cut a strip 1/4" wide.

Glue the card stock strip to the back of the assembly you have glued together.
Make another length.

Isn't this nice? Think about it, you could make a bigger crown mould, you could make base board, too. I'm not saying to do a whole doll house, but certainly room boxes or small projects.

This is a picture I drew of the valance that goes over the sink.
The top is 3/8" wide and 2-1/2" long. You draw this out, too, you are going to make a pattern. The sides are 1/4" wide and 1-1/2" long. Use a compass to draw the curve. I've left 1/4" of space in the center at the top and 3/4" at the sides.

Cut from mat board 2 pieces 3/8" x 2-1/2", glue these together. Cut 4 pieces 1/4" x 1-1/2", glue these together, 2 each.

Go back to your pattern and cut out the curve.

Use this pattern to trace onto mat board your curved piece.

Cut out 2 and glue them together.

Glue the top and sides together.

Mark the center and mark 3/16" on either side and continue marking 3/16" until you have 13 marks.

To transfer your marks slide the curved piece into the valance. Use a square or ruler to transfer the marks.

Use a "T" to make holes in the center of the mat board. This will make it easier to start your drill bit where it should be. Do this for the top and the bottom curved piece.
For the spindles we are going to use 18 gauge bright florist's wire, that's the unwrapped silver colored kind. I used tooth picks to try this out but they were too big and klunky looking.
It's easier to start with a small bit and work up to the size of bit diameter you need for the wire. When you are drilling, squeeze the mat board together.

Cut the wire at about 1-1/4" and glue into the top piece. I used wood glue for this. Once the bottom is glued in the pieces have no where to go.
Slip your bottom in, keep it even with the bottom of the sides.
Use a marker to trace where the top of the curve is.

Trim the wire leaving a little extra to go into the bottom piece.

You can dry fit and if all is well glue the wires and the sides together.

Your valance is done.

We are making 2 upper cabinets.

Cut 2 pieces of mat board 1-1/2" x 2-3/4". These are the cabinet faces.

Measure and mark from the outside edges 1/2" down from the top, one short side and 1/4" from the other 3 sides.

Cut this center out.

The sides are 15/16" x 2-3/4", cut 4.

Glue the sides onto the fronts.

The sides are glued to the back of the fronts, see how the cut side of the front is showing.

The backs are 1-3/8" x 2-3/4". Cut 2

Glue these between the sides.

Cut the bottoms and tops 7/8" x 1-3/8", cut 4.

Glue the tops and bottoms into the
cabinets.

*Note: Upper cabinets are usually a foot deep, 1 inch to us.

The bottom layer of the doors are 1-1/4" x 2-1/4". Cut 2.

The top layer of the doors are 1-1/8" x 2-1/8". Cut 2.

Measure and mark 3/16" in from all four edges on the 4 pieces you just cut.

Use an oval template to mark a curve on the 1-1/8" x 2-1/8" pieces.

Round using sand paper all four of the edges on all four pieces.

Cut the center out of the layers.

Center and glue the smaller layer, the one with the curved top, onto the larger bottom layer.

These are your upper cabinet doors. To finish these we will glue in some acrylic and then some pretty curtains.

Hey, guys, I'm worn out! Next month I'll write about how I finished the cabinet. I'll show you how I made the hardware, too.

Until next month,

HAVE FUN, EXPAND ON IT, MAKE BETTER . . . . . . JUST KEEP MAKING MINIS

COMPUTER CRASHED!!

2011-12-31T13:50:00.000-06:00

Hi Guys, I am starting the New Year off right, my computer crashed. I am having Windows 7 put on my computer, it's going to take a few days. I have a hard copy of all of my clients' e-mails. If you want to send a new e-mail to the camceiling@ frontiernet.net address to make sure I have it, you may.

Will update you all soon. TTYL Kris

Sabby Chic Card Stock Bed with No-Sew Mattress Tutorial -- How to make a bed using card stock and making a mattress with no sewing.

2011-12-16T14:19:00.002-06:00

I saw this bed on-line at a full-size furniture site and thought it would be a good candidate for card stock. For this tutorial I am making a twin size. You can adjust the size for whatever you need, the instructions would be the same. I hope to have a picture of it painted by the end of this blog, I am waiting for the glue to dry.
We are going to make the mattress and box spring first. I was lucky when I found this fabric, I shop Goodwill for fabrics I can use. I saw this shirt and thought, "mattress".

For the box spring cut 3 pieces of foam core. I am showing the label of the foam core I use. Cut the foam core 3-1/4" (82mm) x 6-1/4" (16 cm). Glue them together, I use tacky glue. For the mattress cut 2 pieces of foam core 3-1/4" (82mm) x 6-1/4" (16 cm). Glue them together, also.

This is my box spring and mattress.

Trace around the bottom of the box spring onto card stock, cut out the

card stock.

Ever so slightly round the corners of the mattress and box spring by rocking them on your table. Just take the sharpness off.

Apply glue stick to the card stock. (**TIP: I use a piece of computer photo paper to set my card stock on when I am applying the glue stick. For some reason glue dries on the photo paper and you can use it forever without it being sticky.)
Glue the card stock to your fabric.

Glue the card stock to the bottom of the box spring using a tacky glue, I am showing you what I use.

Apply tacky glue to the sides and glue the fabric to the sides. Glue the corners together and clip them off.

Measure the width of your box spring and cut card stock just a bit narrower. Cut enough card stock to go all around the box spring.
If you have to glue pieces of card stock together to get your length use yellow carpenter's glue. I sand the seams a bit to smooth them out. Dry fit your length.

Apply glue stick to the card stock. I am using my photo paper so I can get the edges glued without getting glue on my table.

Glue the card stock to your fabric.

Clip the corner from each side.

Glue one long side up using the tacky fabric glue.

Clip the fabric like I have in the picture for both ends.

Turn the ends to the card stock and glue down.

Apply tacky fabric glue to the sides of the box spring and glue the card stock on.

Be careful when you are doing this, don't pull the card stock, it will stretch and become longer than you need.

I've made my ends meet on the end.

Clip "V" notches at the corners and glue the extra fabric down.

Set the box spring aside.

Place the mattress on a piece of poster board and trace around. Cut the poster board out.

Do the same with a piece of card stock. Apply glue stick to the card stock and glue your fabric to it. Glue the card stock to the mattress using fabric tacky glue.

Use tacky fabric glue to glue the extra fabric to the sides of the mattress. Glue the corners together and cut off.

For making the mattress soft I am using Thermolam Plus. It's a firm, dense batting I buy from the bolt at Joann's. I am showing a picture of the thickness.

Cut 3 pieces of Thermolam Plus. The first piece is about 1/8" smaller all around, the second piece fits to the edge and the third piece is slightly larger, to be trimmed later.

I want you to get started on your buttons now. Dampen a piece of card stock, best way: lay it between layers of damp paper towel.
After it's damp use a 1/8" paper punch and punch at least a 12 circles.

Lay the damp circles onto a couple of layers of craft foam and use a stylus to shape them. The one I am using is from Micheal's and is a large ball stylus. I used the smaller end.
Push the circles into the foam and let them dry. Set this aside.

See how I am really pressing the circle into the foam?

When the circles dry they will retain their shape better than if you just used dry card stock to start with.

Mark on your poster board where you want your buttons to be. For this size I used 10 buttons, 5 on each side.
Turn the poster board over and use tacky fabric glue to glue the smaller piece of Therolam Plus and the second piece that just fits to the poster board. (My picture was blurred, so I am talking you through this.) Lay the larger piece on top. Now, lay this assembly onto your fabric and cut out, leaving extra all around to glue onto the sides of the mattress.

I used a doubled thread with a knot and starting from the poster board side with the marks I sewed through all layers and came back to the poster board side. I did this twice for all of the marks. I pulled tight and went to the next mark. I knotted off when I ran out of thread and started again.

This is the top of the mattress with the button dimples sewn in.
Trim the Thermolam Plus even with the poster board.

Using the fabric tacky glue, glue the mattress top to the mattress foam core.

Apply fabric tacky glue to the sides of the mattress and glue the extra fabric down. Glue the corners together and clip off.

We're getting there.

Measure the corner of the mattress for the width of the card stock that will be glued onto the sides.

Cut the side from card stock, cut it slightly narrower than your measurement. Dry fit for length, glue pieces together if you have to.

Apply glue stick to the card stock and glue the fabric to it.

Clip the ends as I have them in the picture.

Using the fabric tacky glue I've glued all four sides to the back onto the card stock.

Glue the side to the mattress using the fabric tacky glue.

This maybe a repeat for some of you for piping instructions.

Cut a piece of your fabric on the bias.

I had to glue my fabric together to get a piece long enough to go around my mattress.

Cut a piece of crochet thread the length you need for your mattress.

Apply fabric tacky glue to the edge of the fabric. Smear it toward the edge.

Lay the crochet thread on the glue.

Press the crochet thread into the glue.

This is where my directions have changed a bit.

Carefully fold the edge over the crochet thread. Be sure you get the crochet thread in the fold.

Press the fabric down with your hand.

Run your fingernails along and into the crochet thread. This seals the fabric together, press hard and pull toward the edge with your fingernails. Turn the fabric over and do the same thing on that side. Turn the fabric over back to the beginning and do the same thing.

Use sharp scissors and cut the piping from the fabric.

When you are cutting, cut very close, slightly pulling with the scissors against the piping.

Roll the piping on your table to make it round. Press hard to seal the glue even more.

To make another piece cut away the glued edge and start again. We need a piece for top and bottom.

Glue the piping into the seam where the side is glued on. Use the fabric tacky glue.

Later in the tutorial I have a note about where to get precision glue bottles.

Glue the next piece to the bottom of the mattress.

Almost done.

I painted my buttons. I wrapped tape around a piece of wood, the tape having the sticky side up. Used my tweezers to set my buttons on the tape.

I used an off-white I mixed using Delta's PermEnamel. Let Dry.

Apply fabric tacky glue into the dimples on the mattress and set your buttons.

At this point you can use this mattress as a prop in an attic scene.

You can glue to mattress and box spring together.

Or you can leave them separate to put into a bed for dressing. I would make a fitted bottom sheet and then glue the 2 together and then continue to dress the bed.

On to the bed. Transfer the patterns to a program that lets you change sizes. The dimensions of the head board are: 3-7/8" (98mm) wide and 3-7/8" (87mm) tall.

Use the foot board pattern to trace onto scraps of foam core a mould we will use to shape the foot board.
I have glued and stacked five pieces of foam core together. If you want you can glue card stock onto the curved edge to even up this side.

Cut 3 pieces of card stock 4-3/4" (121mm) x 1-1/2" (38).

Using yellow carpenter's glue to glue these 3 pieces together, I have 2 pieces glued together in the picture.

Bend the 3 pieces around the foot board mould and hold with rubber bands.

Let this dry over night.

Trace the head board pattern 3 times and cut out.

Glue using yellow carpenter's glue, glue the 3 head board patterns together.

Smooth the surface with your hand.

Use yellow carpenter's glue to glue the rest of the bed together.

Another tip: always, always dry fit before gluing.

Cut from mat board 8 pieces 3-11/16" (94mm) x 1/4" (7mm) for the bed posts.

Glue these together, 2 each. When you are finished you should have 4 pairs glued together.

Glue the posts to the head board by gluing 1 pair in back and 1 pair in front. Glue the leg together below the head board and clamp until dry.

Make sure the posts are flush with the edge of the head board.

Measure between the posts and cut 3 strips of card stock 1/2" (13mm) wide.

Glue them together and then glue them to the bottom of the head board.

Measure 7/8" (22mm) up from the top of the card stock strip you just glued on and make a mark on each side.

Cut 3 strips of card stock to fit between the posts, 5/16" (8mm) wide.
Glue the strips together and glue this strip onto the head board on top of the marks you made leaving 7/8" between the two strips of card stock.

Trace the top of the head board pattern onto card stock.

Measure 1/4" (7mm) down from the top edge and draw a new line.

Cut this new pattern out.

Trim off 1/4" (7mm) each side, (that's where the posts are).

Dry fit this pattern on the head board and trim if needed.

Trace 3 of these new patterns onto card stock.

Glue these pieces together.

Dry fit before gluing, glue the top curve onto the head board.

For added surface decoration I cut 3 more top curve patterns and then trimmed them narrower. I then glued these onto the top curve one at a time.

It's the next day!!

Remove the foot board from the mould.

Cut 16 pieces of mat board 1-1/2" (38mm) x 1/4" (7mm).

Glue them together in pairs just as you did for the head board posts.
When you're finished you should have 8 pairs.

In this picture I have all ready glued on a bed post on the inside of the foot board. Don't do that just yet.

I want you to cut out a little of the foot board before gluing the posts on.

At the bottom of each side cut a notch, 1/8" (3mm) x 1/2" (13mm).

Next, I want you to glue a pair of posts to the inside of each end of the foot board. Make sure the edges are flush.
Cut 2 side boards from mat board 1/2" (13mm) x 6" (153mm).

Glue 1 side board into each notch.

Now, you can glue the other pair of posts to the outside of each side of the foot board.

Clamp until dry.

When the end posts are dry you can remove the clamps.

Glue on the other pairs of posts just after the curve of the foot board.

These next few pictures are of what I did before it dawned on me that the EASIER route would be to use toothpicks as a base for the legs. Cut the toothpicks 1" (2.5cm) long. Measure the legs of the head board, they should be 5/8", but you measure your legs to be sure. Mark that length on your toothpick. Next, measure 1/16" down from that mark and make another mark. This new mark is where the paper will be glued for the winding.

On to what I did.

I cut "Q"Tips to 5/8", the length of my legs.

I've made the mark for where I will glue the paper for winding.

The legs are "decorative turnings", we are going to make them with paper.
Cut a piece of paper 6" (153mm) wide. Now, measure 5/16" (8mm) at the top left corner, mark.
Lay a straight edge at this mark and to the bottom left corner. Cut this with your craft knife.

For the next triangle measure 5/16" at the bottom left corner, mark. Use the straight edge and cut to the top left corner.

Make 4 triangles.

You started with a straight edge on your paper, so your triangles have one straight edge and one slanted edge. I marked the straight edge with an "x".

My triangles.

Glue the triangle onto your leg. You will have a toothpick with 2 marks 1/16" apart. Glue the top straight edge to that second mark you made on your toothpick.

Is this too confusing, I am sorry.

Apply a little glue to the paper and wind, keeping the top even.

With the straight edge on one side of the triangle we were able to keep the top even and get this shape.

In this picture you can see I've added more paper.
I cut paper 1/16" and a little wider, not an 1/8", just a little wider than a 1/16".
I glued the paper as I wound 5 to 6 times around the leg.

This is where I thought, "Gee, I should have used toothpicks to start with."
I drilled a hole into the top of the leg I made and glued a toothpick into that hole. We have to dowel the legs on, butt gluing won't do for legs.

This is what your legs should look like.
I have my toothpicks a little longer that an inch here.
Can you see the 1/16" at the top where the "Q"Tip stops and the toothpick starts?

I've drilled holes into the bottom of the posts to receive the legs.

I want you to dry fit the legs before gluing. You can shorten your toothpicks a bit, but glue at least 1/4" into the post.
Do you see that I have the 1/16" space between the post the the first "decorative turning"?

Cut 2 strips of mat board about 5/16" (8mm) wide and 5-7/8" (149mm) long. These are the bed rails.
Dry fit these before gluing in, they should be even with the end of the side boards. Butt glue these to the side boards. Let this dry.

Cut yourself some 1/4" wide strips, I've cut too many here. I went crazy with my paper cutter.

These strips are glued to the foot board, top and bottom on the outside and to the top on the inside.
Cut and dry fit these strips before gluing. Glue on the layers one at a time, glue on 3 layers.

Showing the inside of the foot board.

I've cut some narrower strips, they are probably 1/16". I cut them by eye.

These narrower strips are glued on one at a time, 3 layers just as you did for the wider strips. Be sure to dry fit before gluing.

I have found a place on-line to buy some great precision glue bottles and tips.
www.quilledcreations.com

The tip on the right does not come with a bottle, but I think it will fit onto the smallest Tacky Glue bottle. Use up the glue and put the new tip on for your carpenter's glue.

To cover the layers of card stock I cut a strip of card stock and glued this onto the edge of the head board and posts.

I also cut a strip to cover the edge of the side of the head board's posts.

I traced the top of the foot board onto card stock for a cover. Cut out and trim and dry fit.

I trimmed the card stock and glued it onto the top of the foot board.

I used a boarder punch I had for the surface decoration on the foot board and head board.

I also added a diamond on the top of each post.

I punched 3 of everything and glued on each layer separately.

I'm using toothpicks for the knobs for the top of the posts, yippee!

I cut off the pointed tips of the toothpicks and sanded them round.

You will make 6 knobs. I cut the toothpicks in half.

We are going to wind paper around the toothpicks. These triangles will have both sides slanted.
To do this cut a piece of paper 8" (203mm) wide.
From the top left corner measure 1/4" (7mm). Use a straight edge from this mark to the bottom left corner and cut the first triangle, discard this one.

Measure 1/4" from the bottom left corner and use the straight from that mark to the top left corner and cut the first triangle. Measure from the top left corner, use the straight to the bottom corner and cut the second triangle. Continue this way until you have cut 6 triangles.
Measure from the top rounded end of your toothpick 1/16" and mark. Glue the wide end of the triangle to the toothpick and start winding, adding a little glue as you go.

I've drilled holes in the top of the posts for my knobs. Dry fit first then glue the knobs in.

Glue the head board to the side board/bed rails.

From the picture you can also see I've glued pieces of mat board to fit between the rails to hold more of the mattress.

I don't like butt gluing, you don't have much surface that is glued, it won't hold well.
I scored and folded a piece of card stock and glued it into the corner where the side board is glued to the head board. This will help the head board stay on a little better.

Let the bed dry before you start painting.
I don't think this bed takes any real skill to make. As with anything in miniatures it takes time and patience. The bed and mattress/box spring took me 2 days to make, painting not included. I think it will be a real special piece in your miniature bedroom.

I've got the bed painted. I painted the whole thing Delta's Magnolia White and I used acrylic gesso to fill in the lines on the legs and knobs. I sprayed the whole thing with a satin clear finish. I used Delta's Lisa Pink and mixed a glaze with it to paint around on the bed. Then I took a dark brown and glaze and dabbed in the corners and cracks. After that I took some 400 grit sandpaper and sanded around where I thought it needed it. I sprayed the whole thing with a clear satin spray, and it's done!

I do hope you try this out, it's not hard to do. It would make a great club project, too.

Have a Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, too

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis.

Kris
P.S. if you want to see where I got the idea, www.thepepperkids.com under furniture, the country french bed. You'll be able to make the rest of the furniture for the room.

No-Sew Austrian Valance

2011-11-19T11:48:00.001-06:00

I am excited about this tutorial. I have been sewing for 40 years and love fabric. I used to own a fabric store, too. I love dissecting how things are made. I saw this valance in a catalog, Country Curtains, full-size curtains. Very pretty. This valance intrigued me and I wanted to make it miniature for you. I sewed it together at first, and for those that have a sewing machine you can sew it together instead of gluing. I know not everybody has a sewing machine and hand sewing can be tedious so I tried gluing and it worked just fine!

These are the patterns for the valance. Copy them into a program that you can change sizes. The single pattern measures 8-1/2" (206mm) from side to side and 4-1/16" (106mm) from top to the bottom, not including the "tails". The double pattern measures 7-7/16" (188mm) from side to side and 4-1/16" (106mm) from top to the bottom, not including the "tail". You may want to adjust the pattern sizes to your own tastes.

Trace the pattern onto your lining fabric. Cut out on the traced line.

In this picture I am tracing the double pattern. I am matching the middle.

The pencil line is light, but I think you can see that I've traced the double pattern onto the lining fabric.

I've cut out both the single and double patterns. I am using the same fabric for the lining as my "valance" fabric. You could use a different fabric for the lining for contrast.

This fabric is the "valance" fabric, the fabric that will show.
For the single valance cut a piece 8-1/2 (216mm) x 7-1/4" (185mm).
For the double valance cut a piece 15-1/4" x 7-1/4". I am sorry I don't have the CM measurement right now. Please Google a conversion for that measurement.

Trace just the bottom of the patterns.

Trace on the right side of the fabric.

Now, measure and draw a new line 1/8" (3mm) from your original line.

Apply a line of glue onto the original line.

I use Aleene's No-Sew Fabric Glue.

I know it says temporary, but I use this all of the time and for miniatures it stays together. We are going to machine wash these curtains, I least I don't think I will. This glue usually doesn't soak through and leave marks behind.

With right sides together, lay the lining onto your valance fabric with the lining on the second line you drew.
You will have a little extra fabric that you will have to "ease" in, distribute the fabric evenly and press with a hot iron to seal the glue.

Trim the extra valance fabric from the bottom.

Cut "V" notches into the "seam allowance". Remember it's only an 1/8 of an inch, don't cut too deep.

These notches allow the curves to be turned and lay flat.

I've turned the valances to the right sides and pressed with a hot iron.

Lay the pattern onto the lining side of the valance matching the bottom. Trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the valance fabric.

I've traced both patterns onto my fabric.

I have no idea why this silly blogger with turn some of my pictures. We will just have to deal with it!

Now, measure from the line you just drew and on the sides add an 1/8" (3mm) and draw a new line.
Measure from the line you just drew and add 7/16" (11mm) to the top outside edge and draw a new line.

This picture worked!

This is showing the double valance with the new lines drawn.

This is the casing we are adding on.

Measuring from the raw edge of the lining, measure 3/8" (1cm) and draw another line.

Trim that 3/8" off the lining.

We don't need any bulk included in the casing.

Apply glue to this edge and seal with a hot iron.

Fold over the 1/8" on each side of the valance.

Seal with a hot iron.

The sides have been glued down.

To make the casing lay flat when folded you will have to cut 3 "V" notches at the top and make 1 cut into each bottom curve.

For the double pattern you will have to make about 3 cuts in the middle to get the curve to lay flat.

Use the pattern as a guide to fold the casing over. Be careful and don't burn your fingers.

This pictures shows the casing pressed into place.

Apply glue to the edge of the casing and press with a hot iron to seal.

Do you see the notch that the cut left? We have to fill that in or the casing will be loose in that area and we will see it on the right side.

This is in the middle of the double valance.

Cut a curved piece of fabric and apply glue to the edges of the "V" notch.

Glue the curved piece of fabric to the casing.

Now, glue the bottom of this piece of fabric down like the rest of the casing.

I have the middle done on the double valance.

Press the valances with a hot iron to finish.

We are going to make the curtain rod from mat board.

Cut the mat board 1/4" (7mm) wide.
For the double pattern cut the mat board 12-5/8" long. Please use a Google conversion for this measurement. Mark the center at 6-5/16 (160mm). From each side of the center mark measure 2-13/16" (72mm). From these new marks measure a 1/2" (12mm).
With back of your craft knife score on all of the lines except the center.

For the single pattern valance cut the mat board at 1/4" wide.
Cut the mat board 9" (228mm) long.
Mark the center at 4-1/2" ( 114mm). Measure from each side of center 1-7/8" (48mm) and make marks.
From these new marks measure 1/2".
With the back of your craft knife score on all lines except the center.

You can change these measurements to suit your tastes.

Thread your curtain rod through the casing.

Ease the fabric through curves carefully.

I glued the valance at the last mark on each side.

I put the shortest length, the part right before the tail, at the corner of the curtain rod.

Overlap the mat board at the back. Make sure your front and back are the same length.

This is the double valance.

Do you see the shortest length at the corners? The valance ends the the last mark you made. The 1/2" stands out from the wall.

The folded mat board makes a box to hold the draperies. That's the 1/2" we measured that's holding the draperies.

When you have your draperies made just glue them into the box and glue the whole assembly to the top of your window.

I am going to let you follow the excellent directions with the Pretty Pleater for your draperies.

I hope you are as happy with the results as I was! TTYL Kris

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . . .Just keep making minis! ! !

About this month's tutorial

2011-11-13T21:29:00.000-06:00

Hi, I will be using d. Anne Ruff's Pretty Pleater, the 1 inch scale pleater, for this month's tutorial. You will be able to make the "No-Sew" Austrian Valance without the draperies if you don't have the pleater right now. TTYL Kris

To: glendav.7*******

2011-11-06T07:38:00.001-06:00

My e-mail was undeliverable, I am sorry. I thank you for your compliments. I do plan a tutorial on the kitchen cabinets in the corner cabinet, thanks to you for suggesting it. I made the cabinets from bass wood, if I would have known then what I know now about the wonders of mat board and card stock I wouldn't have done that. I will have to make a change for the decorative posts, I did turn those and sawed them in half. I think I have a nice alternative, though.

For November I have a "No-Sew Austrian Valance" to show you all how to do. I am excited about it.

TTYL Kris

Question?

2011-11-04T08:37:00.000-05:00

I've been asked what kind of card stock I use. I buy Georgia-Pacific white card stock, 110 weight. I buy it by the ream at Wal-Mart. The trick is the yellow carpenter's glue, it dries hard. I have another bed in mind to make for the tutorial in the early months of next year. NEXT YEAR! I can't believe it.
TTYL Kris

Tribute to Card Stock !

2011-10-27T12:29:00.001-05:00

Hi Everybody!
Had to post this picture of the "sleigh" bed I made. This was a very special order from a long time customer. She needed a bed for her Santa and she wanted a old sleigh to do the job. The sleigh is made entirely from card stock. I cut wood moulds and used yellow glue to glue the layers together, drying on the moulds. The candle is a "Q-Tip" just like from the Candle Sconce tutorial. The "Q-Tip" runs through the bottom of the lantern and I added card stock embellishments. The "glass" in the lantern is an old play lipstick top from my youngest daughter, it's been in my bin for at least 12 years!? Never throw anything out! I used a holly punch for the decoration, card stock, 3 layers. We are going to use that in a tutorial that's coming up.

Got to get back to work or do the dishes . . . . . . . . Kris

1 inch scale Cathedral Radio Tutorial - How to make a 1 inch scale Cathedral Radio from paper.

2011-10-19T16:13:00.004-05:00

Hi Miniaturists!
I have been wanting to make this radio for a long time. I purchased a refrigerator magnet back in 1996 thinking it was 1 inch scale, it wasn't.

I thought it would be a good candidate for the blog tutorial. It's made mostly from card stock with a little mat board.

These are the parts for the radio. Copy them into a program that lets you change size, I use Paint. When the 1 inch square (2.5 cm) measures 1 inch (2.5) you have the right size for your parts.

Print 2 copies of the patterns onto card stock.

Cut out one pattern of the shell.

Trace the shell pattern onto mat board, twice.

Cut the two patterns out.

Glue two strips of card stock together using white glue. I am using white glue for this piece because I don't want it to dry too fast. We need to work with it a bit.
After you've glued the two pieces together cut a strip 1/2" (13mm) x 3-1/8" (79mm) long.

For the rest of the tutorial we will use yellow carpenter's glue, I have Titebond right now, but Elmer's carpenter's glue is just as good.

Score a line in the center of this strip using the back of your craft knife.

Fold the strip in half, molding it a bit with your thumb and forefinger.

See the little bit of curve I've got?

Apply yellow glue to the edge of the mat board shell pattern and starting with the fold at the center top, glue the strip to the mat board edge pressing as you go.

Don't trim the extra card stock off, yet.

Apply yellow glue to the other mat board shell pattern edge and glue it to the assembly you've just made.
Let this dry, trim off any extra card stock you might have.
Set this aside for now.

Cut out the grille first, cut along the lines so that you have kinda of a square, (I didn't measure that).
This will be trimmed to fit later.

I made a small slice with my craft knife for my scissors to slip into.

Using scherenschnitte scissors and I do think they make the cutting easier, I cut out the design.
These scissors have a sharp point and short blades. You cut with the tip, don't take a big bite with the blades.

Cut the design's line off. Don't leave any of the design's line on the finished grille.

When you have both grilles cut out, carefully spread yellow glue onto the card stock, be careful around the grille area.
Press the two grilles together. I used a toothpick to smooth the edges with. This cleaned up any little stray nubs.

Now, cut out the frames. I cut the inside of the frame first, I thought it was easier.
Cut the design's line off on the inside of the frame. Can you see the line I left on the waste piece? Please ignore the measurement on the waste piece.
I cut on the line for the outside line.

I do apologize for this "inside and outside cutting of the lines."

When you have both frames cut out glue them together with yellow glue.

When gluing the frames together match up the legs first, the top will take care of itself.

Center the frame over the grille and glue the frame onto the grille with yellow glue.

Trim off the extra card stock around the frame.

Measure a 1/2" (13mm) up from the bottom of the frame, make a mark, do this on both legs of the frame.

Using a pencil and a ruler make three vertical lines on each leg of the frame, try to get them equally spaced.

I want to make impressions on these lines. I used a very small ball stylus I found at Michaels, I think I found it in the isle where the glues are.
If you don't have a stylus use a toothpick, you'll need several because you will press the point off and you need the sharp point to keep the impressed line very narrow. I did this and then I took my metal straight edge and deepened the lines. This worked very well.

I am pressing with the toothpick. As I said you will need several, you want the line to be very narrow.
I don't show it in the picture, but use your straight edge to line up your toothpick or stylus.

Here I am deepening the lines with my straight edge.
A tip: The quicker you can get to this while the glue is still wet underneath the more pronounced the lines will be.

Glue two strips of card stock together with yellow glue.

Now, cut a strip just on the other side of the 1/16" (2mm) line and 1-1/2" (39mm) long.

Cut two short pieces from this strip to be glued at the top of the vertical lines on the frame's legs.

In this picture I've shown you another way to put these small strips on.

I've glued the strips so they wrap around the edges. I think this looks a little more realistic.
So, you can glue the strips on top or around the frame.

Cut another strip to fit between the legs of the frame at the bottom.

From mat board cut a piece 5/8" (16mm) x 1-1/4" (31mm) long. Sand half round the two short edges and one long edge. Leave the other long edge, that's the back and it will be flush the the back of the body of the radio.

I am going to talk a little about this decorative stacking of mat board. It makes an "ogee" edge. We've done it in previous projects and it's easy to do making a nice, real looking edge. Just a word about how much "reveal" is shown. "Reveal" is what is showing. I don't like giving instructions that have, "Cut on the outside of the line or inside of the line, or just over the 1/4" mark"; but in miniatures sometimes this is the only way to describe it. I have given you dimensions for the bottom platform, but you can measure the front of the radio (the frame and grille part) and decide for yourself how long and how wide you want these pieces to be.

I HAVEN'T GLUED THE FRONT ON, YET.

I have the radio body setting on the first layer of the platform to see how much reveal I have. I can trim at this point if I want less.

Remember to sand the two short ends and the one long front.
Apply yellow glue to the bottom of the radio body, center the mat board and glue the mat board on.

This picture is showing the back being flush, nothing should be sticking out on the back side.

I have my first layer of the platform glued on. Do you see the half round edges?

This is the second layer of the platform. The measurements are: 11/16" (18mm) x just under 1-3/8" (34mm). Measure in from each side 3/8" (9mm) and 1/8" (4mm) deep. Cut this center piece out. This makes it looks like the platform is on legs.

Sand this layer just like the first.

I've got the second layer of the platform glued on. This is the second radio I made and I think I have too much reveal on the ogee edge.

At this point I would like you to sand the top of the frame between the added pieces above the vertical line. I didn't do that, but I think it would make the radio look nicer if that edge would be rounded off, slightly.

I've never been able to do a good faux bois finish, you still might not think I do a good finish! That's why I didn't do this project, this needed to be "wood". Mat board makes very good painted furniture projects, I wasn't sure about "wood". I spent a few hours looking up how to paint this finish. The best information, at least I think it is, is the orange base coat! This works, it really does. I used Delta's Ceramcoat Pumpkin, give the body and front two coats and let dry.

Next, I used a flat brush, it was 1/4" wide, and I brushed on Delta's Ceramcoat Burnt Sienna. I squiggled my brush a bit. I have streaks, but I also covered up enough of the orange to tone it down. I DID NOT use any thinner or glazing medium.
In this picture I am using a small round brush to fill with Burnt Sienna at the seams.

I wanted you to see the brushes I used.

I took a picture of the sponges I use. I like these because they have small holes. They are called silk sponges.

I used a sponge and dabbed on Burnt Sienna, again, I did not use any thinner or glazing medium, yet. The front looks like "burled" wood. I wish I had left the "ribbon" grained effect on the sides. There is always a veneer on the full-size radios of a "ribbon" grain mahogany. I think I will make another and leave the graining on the body.
I suppose you could experiment with using a slightly different color on this dabbing step.
Let the paint dry on your radio pieces. After they are dry spray them with a satin finish spray, I use Krylon's Acrylic Crystal Clear for metal, wood, wicker and more, Satin, it says indoor/outdoor on the label, too. "A protective, non-yellowing clear finish." I buy it at the Wal-Mart! Let this dry.

While the radio pieces are drying we can make the knobs.

I used tiny circles punched, stacked and glued together for the knobs. You need at least, if not smaller, a 1/6"circle. I used part of a larger punch. I will sometimes buy punches for their secondary shapes. This one has a good leaf, plus little circles.

You can use Fimo if you have it.

I stacked and glued with yellow glue 6 to 7 layers of the circles.

Here are my knobs. You need four, I don't know why they needed so many knobs.

I stuck pins in the knobs and painted them black. For this I used Delta's Perm-Enamel Black.

I folded a piece of card stock in half and free hand cut a small shape for the dial frame. I've drawn a pattern for you, but you might have to cut it a bit smaller, you be the judge.

I painted this a metallic gold color, let it dry.

Now, I mix a dark brown paint, I used Folk Art Artist's Pigment, 504 Van Dyke Brown,with a glazing medium. Not quite half and half, more paint than glazing medium. Paint on or dab on with your brush. With a small rag, I used a scrap of an old "T"- shirt, dab the paint off. If you find that your dark brown paint is wiping off you may have too much glazing medium in the mix, let the paint stay on the surface a little longer before you dab off. You want the dark brown paint to stay in the crevices to show depth.

Here are my two pieces of the radio with the dark brown paint dabbed off.

For the "cloth" behind the grille I mixed up a little gold color paint. I didn't have a gold color, I liked the one I mixed the night before, it was a little darker. I couldn't remember what colors I used the when I tried to mix them the next day. You use what you like.

For a little surface interest I sponged on a little metallic gold paint.

Glue the front onto your radio body.

Now, paint a little square of off-white paint where the dial frame will go.
Let this dry.

Glue the dial frame onto the front.

Glue your knobs on.

I painted a little red line in the middle of the dial.

I've got to tell you the picture doesn't do this justice, this little radio looks much better in person.

I hope you give this a try, our little rooms need some music and our little ladies need to listen to their "stories"!

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!! TTYL Kris

Vintage Enamel Topped Table Tutorial - How to Make a Vintage Kitchen Table

2011-09-19T10:43:00.001-05:00

These two pictures are of the original table from the room box.

This is the table that matches the chairs in the last month's tutorial. The whole kitchen is in a blog under "Kitchen Room Box".
I made my original table from basswood. I am making this one out of mat board for the tutorial. If you want to use basswood the directions are pretty much the same. I am using 1/8" diameter aluminum tubing and 1/16" diameter aluminum tubing. Look in last month's blog tutorial for the information on where to get the aluminum tubing.

I want to speak a little bit about painting. I like to use Rustoleum's paint for painting anything that is supposed to look like metal. This paint is a good quality oil base paint, yes, you will have to have thinner to clean your brush. This paint is self leveling, that means the brush strokes level out as it dries. If you like to use spray paint, please go ahead and do that. For this project I used Delta's PermEnamel paint.

Let's begin.

Cut 2 pieces of mat board at 3-1/8" x 2-3/16".
Cut 2 pieces of mat board at 3" x 2-1/16".

Sand round the edges of the 3" x 2-1/16" pieces of mat board.

Sand a bevel on the 3-1/8" x 2-3/16" piece. A bevel is a straight slant, not rounded. THIS IS NOT IMPORTANT, it's just a design thing.

Center the smaller piece of mat board on top of the larger one and glue, use yellow carpenter's glue. Did you know I was going to say that?

Clamp the tops until they are dry.

Cut a strip of mat board 5/16" wide and about 11" long.
Measure for 2 pieces cut at 2-5/8" and 2 pieces cut at 1-11/16". This is the apron of the table.

Butt the mat board strips together end to end.

Long, short, long, short.

Cut a strip of card stock 5/16" wide.

Glue, using the yellow carpenter's glue, the card stock strip to the pieces of mat board.

The ends of the mat board should be touching, but don't glue them together.

Just a note, for gluing the mat board together we are using yellow carpenter's glue through out the tutorial.

If your card stock runs over, that's fine, leave it. If you don't have extra on the end, glue a piece on.

Set this aside for now.

If your table tops are dry, unclamp them. Set one table top aside.

On the second table top measure 7/8" from the outside edge. Mark the top and bottom. Cut the side off.
Try to keep your craft knife straight up and down when you are cutting.
Measure for the other side the same way and cut that side off.

Keep the middle piece we are going to use that later.

Glue the 2 side pieces to the underside of the other table top and clamp until dry.

If you are not familiar with this type of table I will try to explain to you what this second table top is. On the life-size table, these 2 sides you just glued on would slide out from underneath the top and then slip up just enough to fit onto the edge of the top making your table bigger when you needed it.

Cut some strips of card stock 5/16" wide.

Using carpenter's glue, glue the strip of card stock together around the 1/8" aluminum tubing. Don't glue to the tubing.

Wrap the card stock until it measures 7/32" when using the circle template.
Make 4 and set aside.

If your table top is dry, unclamp it.

Go back and get the apron pieces of mat board that you glued together with the card stock.
Fold the apron pieces into a rectangle and glue the remaining piece of card stock to the other end of the apron.
Center the apron onto the underside of the table top and glue. Set this aside.

Go back to the card stock tubes you made earlier.
These are the decorative corners on the apron.
You need to cut 3/32" out of them. That's somewhere between a 1/16" and an 1/8".

Here are mine with the little bit cut out.

Set them aside for now.

Get the middle piece you set aside from cutting the second table top.

Carefully trim this piece to 3/8" wide.

This piece is slid into the underside of the table top. On the life-size table there is a small wooden filler piece on each end that keeps the continuity of the edge of the bottom leaves of the table. This piece represents that.
Glue this in.

Get your card stock tubes.
These are glued to the corner of the apron.
I cut a small piece of my 1/8" aluminum tubing for size.
These need to be snug, trim more off of your card stock tubes if you need to.

I've got my card stock tubes glued on.

Glue 2 layers of card stock together and cut some narrow strips.

This is going to be the surface decoration on the corners.

Cut small pieces of the card stock and glue to the corners.

I am not going to put corner blocks in this table, that would require some mitering. We will drill into the bottom layer of the table top.
Cut a strip of mat board 3/16" wide. Set this strip in the corner and make a mark at the end.

The mark you just made is where you will use a 1/16" drill bit to drill a hole into the bottom layer of your table.

Don't drill through, the hole doesn't need to be deep.

Cut 4 pieces of 1/8" aluminum tubing at 2-5/16" long.

Just roll your craft knife around the tubing. This will cut the tubing, don't press too hard.

The 1/16" aluminum tubing is cut 2-3/4" long, 4 pieces.

Insert green paddle wire, 24 gauge, into the 1/16" tubing.
This will keep the tubing from crimping when we bend it.

Sand an 1/8" dowel to fit inside the 1/8" tubing. You don't need to sand the whole length, just about an inch will do. If you have a 1/16" dowel, this works without having to sand.
Slip the dowel into the tubing. Measure from the end a 1/16" and mark with a large pin.

Using a smaller drill bit than the 1/16" size, drill a hole into the tubing.
I use a smaller bit first, it's easier this way.

Now, use the 1/16" drill bit and drill out the hole.

Do this for all 4 legs.

Your 1/16" aluminum tubing should fit into this hole.

To bend the 1/16" tubing I used a pair of pliers I found in the beading section of Michaels. They have graduated round tips.

Bend about a 1/4" on one end. I had you cut more than you needed.

You will have to trim the 1/16" tubing to fit, it's a trial and error thing.

Don't glue the legs in just yet, you need to paint the table first.

You can glue the 1/16" tube into the 1/8" tube with jewelry cement. I left this to dry over-night.

Cut a drawer front for the table from the mat board at 1/4" wide and 1" long.

Round the edges and drill 2 holes for a wire handle.

As I mentioned earlier I used Delta's PermEnamel Paint. Mine is a little old and is thick. I used PermEnamel Thinner to thin it.
I painted and sanded to get a smooth finish.
I then "tried" to paint a straight line around the edge. This makes the table look like it's been enameled.
To finish it I used Delta's PermEnamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

I made a wire handle and painted it with silver paint. I finished the drawer front just as I did the table top.
Glue the wire handle in and glue it to one of the long sides of the apron.
My life-size table has silverware dividers in it, so I guess that's were the silverware was kept to set the table with.

This is the finished mat board table. I did my best on the black line, but I think I need some touching up.

If I had known what I know now about using mat board, I would have never bought basswood for painted projects.

I hope some of you try this out, it's not as hard as it looks.

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!!!

See 'ya next month, Kris

TWO NEW FURNITURE DESIGNS

2011-09-08T08:29:00.002-05:00

I've been busy making furniture. I wish I could go faster, I need some new stuff on the CDHM site.

The top picture is "The Casselman Dining Chair". This was a special order copied from a life size chair. I think the miniaturist made a very good choice, it's a sophisticated looking design, isn't it?

The next two pictures are of a knole sofa that was ordered. I haven't made one of these before so I thought I would give it a try. It's going into a Victorian house in the UK.

Of course, these are available now. The fabrics will be different as these fabrics are gone. You can choose your own 100% cotton fabrics or let me choose something for you. I will make the knole sofa in 100% cotton velveteen, I think that would look nice. The dining chairs are $20.00 for one. The knole sofa is $50.00.

Vintage Kitchen Chair Tutorial - How to make a metal tubular kitchen chair, 1 inch scale.

2011-08-18T15:10:00.000-05:00

This is the chair from the Vintage Kitchen, I have several pictures of this room box on the blog, one picture is in the July 29, 2009 posting. I've been asked to make a tutorial for this chair several times, I avoided it because it's tricky. Even now, when I made the samples for you I held my breath when the bending began. I didn't have another piece of aluminum if this failed. I am making the table next month so you will have a matching set. This set is in my full-size kitchen, so I took the measurements from it and converted to 1 inch scale.

This chair uses 3/32 inch aluminum tubing. I used to get it from Micro Mark, they only sell by the box of 15 now, at least that's what their web site listed. Now, if your first try at bending this chair is successful, consider yourself lucky, but 15 pieces is way too many unless you are using this as a club project.
I have found a site that sells the K & S Engineering aluminum tubing in smaller amounts, www.hobbylinc.com They sell 3/32 inch aluminum tubing in a package of 3 for 1.59, I would purchase 2 packages, just in case. For the table you will need 1 package of 1/16 inch aluminum tubing, 6 pieces for 1.59 and 1 package of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing, 3 pieces for 1.89. Look under "building supplies". Of course, if you have a hobby shop that specializes in models and trains they might have this tubing.

I used basswood for the seats and backs on the original chairs. If you have access to a scroll saw and can cut the wood, I would use the wood. The seat is 3/32 inch thick basswood and I sanded the saddle into the seat. The back is cut from 1/16 inch thick basswood. After I cut out and sanded the edges round I dampened the back and let it dry over a glass, something that had the right size bend. I held it in place with rubber bands. Let this dry overnight. Then I painted with Rustoleum white oil base paint.

For this tutorial I am using mat board for the seats and backs.

I mentioned earlier, if you are successful on the first try consider yourself lucky. This goes fast, you'll have a chair in no time, if your bends are correct. Don't try to move the bends too much, aluminum only bends once.

I don't use the "tube benders". They are more trouble than they are worth. We will make a bending jig.

You'll need a scrap of wood, a piece of a 2 x 4 or maybe a piece of plywood, at least 1/2 inch thick.

On a piece of paper draw your chair shape. Use a square. From top of back to seat is 1-1/4 inches; back of seat to front 1-1/4 inches; top of seat to floor 1-3/8 inches and the last measurement is 1-1/16 inches.

Now, round off the corners, I did this freehand, if you want to use a circle template, go ahead.

Cut this pattern out and glue it to your scrap of wood.

Next, you are going to need some brads. These are small nails with NO heads. Mine are probably 5/8 inches long.

The picture above is my original bending jig from maybe 10 years ago, never throw out your jigs or forms, you will need them again.
See the little brads? Yes, they look like nails, but you can't have heads on them or you won't be able to get the tubing off after you've bent it.
Carefully hammer the brads into the wood on your rounded lines. Do you see how mine are very, very close together? You have to do this so the tubing won't crimp.
This is your first bending jig for the chair, you have one more to make.

On another piece of paper draw an "L" with your square, each leg is 9/16 inches long. Round it's corner also.
Glue this piece to the scrap of wood also, glue it about 10 or 12 inch away from the first pattern. Carefully hammer the brads onto the rounded line.

Again, this is my original jig with all of my notes. You see I made some mistakes the first time, and when you see me bending you will notice that I had the two jigs too close together.

To keep the tubing from crimping insert a wire large enough to fill the inside of the tube. I had 18 gauge covered wire on hand. I had to unravel the thread on it, but it fit into the 3/32 inch tubing just fine.

The tubing is 12 inch long. Use your craft knife and with the wire inserted, cut the tubing to 11-1/16 inch.

I am cutting the tubing.

Cut the wire a little shorter than the tubing. Straight pins are used to cap the ends of the tubing so we need room for those.

We are ready to bend.

Hold the tubing at the top of the jig, the tubing is going to want to move away from the brad, hold onto it.

Please forgive the picture quality, I had help.

I've made the first bend at the back of the seat.

THEN, I moved the tubing so that it is on top of the second bend's brads, look carefully and you can see this.

In this picture you can see how I moved the tubing to be on top of the second bend. I've made the bend and I am down to the bottom.

I've made the third bend.

I am marking on the tubing a line to indicate the end of the pattern.

I've removed the chair and now it's on the next jig.

The mark you made should be at the first brad.

This is a picture from the top and I am bending around the brads.

I am marking the tubing again indicating the end of the pattern, this is also the center back.

At this point you could cut the chair at the center back, it's much easier this way, but you have a seam that would have to be glued.

I've repositioned the chair.

Can you see the chair on the right, the center back line is matching the one on the pattern?

We are still looking at everything from the top.

I've made the second bend for the bottom of the chair.

Now it gets complicated!

I do not know how to explain this, but here goes . . . take a straight edge, your ruler, but it's got to be flat and thin, that's why I have mine turned over, push it against the curve and make a mark on the other side of the chair's tubing.

This is not exact, this is going to be your trial chair.

Remember, you can cut the chair at the center back.

I've gone back to my first jig, see the chair is standing up on it's bottom.

I've lined up the mark I made with the first brad. After I made the first sample chair, I found that I needed to move the chair back, maybe a 1/16 inch from the brad.

We are still looking from the top. The back bottom of the chair is on the left and I am beginning the bottom bend.

Yes, it's not on the same plane, we are going to twist the second side into position.

Are you sure you wanted these instructions?

I've continued around the brads.

REMEMBER, to move the tubing after the second bend so that it's under your brads at the back of the seat.

If all went well you should be ending at the beginning mark on your pattern.

Carefully lift your chair off of the jig.

Carefully twist the other side of the chair into position.

You have one try at this.

Here are my two samples, and my original chair. You can move the aluminum tubing a bit, but don't worry it to death, it will break.

All of this just takes minutes to do.

Transfer the patterns at the top of this posting to a program that you can change sizes in. When you get the 1 inch square to measure 1 inch, you have the patterns correct.
As I mentioned earlier, if you have basswood and can cut it, use it. If not we are going to use mat board for this tutorial.

I bent the chair back using a form, this is a circular Altoids tin. Wrinkles will appear on the surface of the mat board. To cover them, because it very hard to get rid of them, cut a piece of paper or card stock to fit over the front of the back after it's bent. This should be a lot easier than trying to sand and paint them out, like I tried to do.

Glue the paper with yellow carpenter's glue while the back is in it's bent position. Hold until set.

Find some straight pins with large heads, or you can punch circles to cover the open ends of the tube.

I had some small nails I used for the samples.

I sanded the edges half round and then gave everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze to seal.
Let dry.

A picture showing the half rounded edges.

I painted the mat board with Delta's PermEnamel white paint, several times, sanding with 320 grit paper in between coats. We are trying to imitate metal so we want a very smooth surface. After you are satisfied with the surface give everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze. I glued the backs and seats on with instant glue, be careful of your position, you don't have much time to reposition.

Yes, this chair is a little daunting, but you can do it, just take a deep breath!!

I will be posting the table next month.

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, Just keep making MINIS!!!!!

Retro Tables and Chairs!!

2011-08-09T10:37:00.000-05:00

Hello, I have a link I want you to go to. This link is to a talented lady's pictures, pictures of things she makes. Gail bought my Retro Set and then she made the perfect tables and lamps to go with it. Look at her album, she is considering setting up "shop" and selling her accessories and she needs some encouragement, folks.

http://community.webshots.com/user/pinehaven1998

She makes all kinds of things and they all look fantastic!!

Attention: msfierce7

2011-07-19T13:14:00.000-05:00

Hi Leilani, Please contact me at my e-mail address about the kitchen set. I believe it's far too complicated to put on the blog. Maybe we could work on it in small amounts. It is more involved than what I have shown on the blog and you do have to purchase specific materials for it. Kris

Question?

2011-07-19T08:20:00.001-05:00

Well, first of all . . . . . .Thank you for the compliments! I am so glad you like this month's tutorials. There isn't anything like finishing a project, you did it yourself, it was fun to do AND you have something you can put into your dollhouse scene. This is what makes miniatures just so much fun, making the minis yourself!!

I was messing around in the "Stats" in the dashboard area and looked at some of the links to my blog. I noticed that some of the other blogs have ads from actual dollhouse sites. That's so cool, I don't like the ads Google gives and they aren't of any use to you. So, how do I get these ads, do you wait to be approached or do you ask the sites to put an ad on your site. I can think of a couple right now, the Create for Less site for your craft needs and the Royalwood Ltd. site if you wanted to buy waxed linen. If I approach them do I ask for payment and how is that done? Maybe someone out in blogger-ville can help me with some suggestions.

Thanks again, TTYL Kris

Part 2 of the July Tutorial, Fly Swatter Tutorial - How to make a 1 inch scale fly swatter.

2011-07-18T19:54:00.002-05:00

A miniaturist from the UK asked for a fly swatter tutorial and this is my try.

I have modeled the miniature fly swatters after my own. I measured and converted it to 1 inch scale.

The "swatter" part is made from fine tulle. I happen to have black on hand, I made a screen door and used the tulle for that.

For the handle I used green paddle wire, 26 gauge.

Cut the wire 3 1/4" (82mm) long.

Fold the wire in half over a piece of mat board that is 3/8" (1 cm) wide.

Hold onto the mat board and place the pliers about 1/4" (6mm) from the edge of the mat board and twist 3 to 4 times.

Don't make a tight twist.

Now, place the pliers about 1 1/4" (32mm) from the folded end of the wire.

Do you see in the picture the right edge of my pliers? That's what is 1 1/4" (32mm) from the folded end of the wire.

With another set of pliers make another twist, not tight.

Leave a bit untwisted.

I've found if you twist in the opposite direction of the first twist, it looks better.

Bend the ends out to a "Y".

The handle is done.

The "swatter" part is made from paper and the fine tulle. A picture of that is above.

The "swatter frame" is made from paper. The easiest way I've found to do this is to fold a strip of paper in half, that's the middle picture. Fold the paper again, that's the picture on the right.

The dimensions of the "swatter frame" are 3/8" (1 cm) x 1/2" (1.5 cm).

Sharpen your pencil and mark the dimensions on your folded piece of paper.

First mark the 1/2" (1.5 cm) length along the folded edge.

Second, mark the width. The width is divided in half because we have folded the paper in half, so half of 3/8" (1 cm) is 3/16" (5mm).

Measure 1/8" (3mm) from an end, make a mark.

Draw a diagonal line to the fold.

Draw a line on the inside of the "swatter frame", about a 1/16" (1 to 2 mm) from the original line.

This doesn't have to be exact, we just want a narrow border.

Make a straight line at the triangle part at the end. That's where we glue the handle in.

Cut out this middle.

Cut the "swatter frames" out from the rest of the paper.

Apply tacky glue to one of the "swatter frames" and press the tulle onto it.

I know I don't show it in the following pictures, but now is the time to trim the fine tulle away from the frame.

After you have trimmed the tulle away from the frame,

apply tacky glue to the tulle and press your handle into the triangle area of the frame.

Apply a little more tacky glue to the handle and place the remaining frame on top and press it all together with your fingers. Let dry.

When the glue is dry you can paint the fly swatter any color you want. I've trimmed the corners, I think this looks better.

If you use the black tulle you can make the swatter look old fashioned by leaving the black tulle and green wire handle and just paint the frame. That's the way I remember my grandmother's fly swatter.

Remember, this is Part 2 of the July Tutorial, so if you haven't seen the basket tutorial, yet, scroll down.

Have fun, expand on it, make it better . . . . . . . . . Just keep making minis!!!

Why paint the crochet thread first?

2011-07-18T08:13:00.001-05:00

I was asked why I paint the crochet thread first. This is why:

First of all it makes the thread stiffer and easier to work with. The thread stays where you put it, it won't loosen after you have pulled it tight.

Second, if you paint the basket after you have woven you will lose all of the wonderful definition of the weaving you have just worked so hard at.

We want to thank Teresa for the inspiration for this tutorial!

Information: the cloth coated wire I spoke about is from wwwcreateforless.com
Fibre-Craft Stem Wire, 26 gauge, white 18" long, 24 pieces in a package, (you will have to buy 6 packages, they have a "multiples" thing) Item number for this is" #49034723

I buy my waxed linen from www.royalwoodltd.com They have a color card and you get a wholesale price if you purchase $50.00 or more, that's about 5 or 6 spools of linen.

I am working on the fly swatter today and hope to have it up by tonight. Got to go brush the donkeys!