1 Life in Bangkok

How to order a popular Thai dish - a memory hook for "Phak Buun Fay Deng"

2012-12-12T17:53:00.000+07:00

It comes in handy to remember one of Bangkok oldest red light districts Patpong, sometimes. In times, when you want to order a very popular Thai dish.

When we first got the chance to taste this delicious Thai dish, called "phak buun fay deng", we loved it right away. The green vegetable is morning glory stir-fried in soja sauce and spiced with garlic and chili!

But when you do not speak Thai and have no clue how to remember that long name - that sounded to us like "Patpong fry deng" - you think of Patpong when you want to order your favourite Thai veggie dish.

And it works!

I think, it was my first Thai expression that I could speak out "fluently" (beside the numbers til 9,999, sawadee ka and kop khun ka). Although, our order caused some giggling (555 = ha ha ha) with the Thai waitresses, we got what we wanted.

After maturing a bit, I refined the order to: "patpung fay deng".
But only now, years later, my Thai teacher tells me that it is in fact phak buun fay deng! (or Pak Bun Fay Deang).

Phak buun is the Thai translation for morning glory and fay deng is the red flame you need for the cooking!

phak buun fay deng

- photo and recipe via Shesimmers food blog -

THAI - ENGLISH:
phak = vegetable
phak buun = morning glory (German: Mangold)
fay = fire
deng = red

Loy Kratong Photos

2012-12-03T17:57:00.002+07:00

view of Wat Arun (Iso 100 f/4 4s 28mm)

This year, we had an invitation to join Loy Krathong festival on the Chaopraya River at a beautiful location, just opposite Wat Arun. I packed my new lense (the all purpose Canon 18-200mm) and my new tripod. At the end I left the latter in the car since it was not really a photo shoot event - and there seemed to be people everywhere.

First, we boarded a boat at the shopping mall River City that would bring us to the charming Chakrabongse Villas, a former royal residence, remodelled into a awarded boutique hotel. The lush tropical garden and the terrace on the river was rented that night for a private Loy Krathong event.

waiting to lift down the krathongs on poles

The small downturn on the Chaopraya river is, that you cannot really drop your krathong in the river yourself. All the terraces along the river, at the Chakrabonse Villas or at any Hotel along the river, are elevated, of course. So you need to use a long pole, place your krathong on a plate and an assistant would float your krathong carefully onto the stream. Unless you want to balance on tiny, slippery stairs and risk to fall into the water, or lean over on a pier and risk to drop all your belongings together with the krathong.

floating krathongs

Usually, there are impressive fire works to end the Loy Krathong night. Some hotels share bigger fire works since they are so closely located together along the river. The fire work at the Thai Villas was short but nice. I tried to take a picture without the tripod, holding my breath, but neither the poles of the pier nor Wat Arun are sharp...

Loy Krathong fire works

Well, well, when I saw the photos of professional photographer Gavin Gough, who runs the popular Bangkok Photo School, the next day on Facebook and his blog, I was so intimidated that at first, I did not dare to publish any of my photos. I definitely need some lessons, especially for night shots.

Below are two Loy Krathong photos by Gavin Gough and the settings (shot with a Canon 5D Mark II). He went this year to Wat Yannawa, a large temple beside the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok for one of the most beautiful Thai festivals:

1/30 s f/2.8 ISO 800 (16mm) flash fired

1/100 s f/1.2 ISO 320 (85 mm) no flash

BTW, if you want to learn how to use your digital camera from "Zero to hero", there is a new class of Gavin Gough starting this coming Wednesday, December 5th. - And I might sign up for a workshop soon.

Bangkok: Loy Krathong 2012

2012-11-28T15:14:00.001+07:00

Today, Wednesday November 28 is the 12th full moon in 2012, and therefore again Loy Krathong!

This year we had no heavy flood like in 2011, which made the city of Bangkok allow Loy Krathong on lakes only to avoid further clogging of the drainage systems. But this year it is raining!

It rained this morning and again in the early afternoon. Let's hope that in the evening around sunset, it will be dry so everyone can enjoy Loy Krathong around the Chaopraya River and the klongs, and of course again on lakes, like in Lumpini Park or Benjasiri Park (next to Emporium). We will most likely not see the full moon this year, but some nice fireworks instead for sure.

We plan to go to the Chaopraya river. Rain means more traffic jam, even if less people will go out to celebrate, it will make no difference. "Pay day" is also around, so I have to calculate at least one hour for my trip from Suhkumvit to Chinatown. I will try to do some nice photos with my new tripod ;-)

Above is a photo of the very lovely looking hand made krathong that the daughter of our maid gave our son. I am pleased to see the "classic" krathong made of banana stem and not of foam or plastic. Also the one that our son made at school today is very similar. If you don't have a garden or don't want to cut down your banana tree for some floating objects, you can buy a krathong in the streets of Bangkok at flower stalls, in wet markets and even super markets.

Actually, Loy Krathong is celebrated all over Thailand and many provinces and cities have their own events that last almost the whole week - meaning they start before full moon!

I found this website that gives you some history information about this famous Thai festival. And (maybe for next year) you get an idea where and when to celebrate this beautiful light and water festival in Thailand. Especially beautiful and over a couple of days it is celebrated in Chiangmai (together with "floating lanterns") and in Sukhothai (at the Historical Park).

Volunteer Opportunities and Charity in Bangkok

2012-11-26T19:55:00.000+07:00

Although some welfare projects are run by Thai nationals, most of the volunteers helping underprivileged seem to be foreigners in Bangkok.

However, during the flood 2011, we all saw Thais helping Thais in need. Being homeless due to a natural disaster is considered a tragedy. Whereas living in a slum seems related to bad karma. Maybe the Buddhist believe in karma, let people think that one is responsible for its own misery. By making merits you can earn "seeds" (points) for the next live.

In Thailand, where the state does not give enough social welfare support, family is still a strong institution and Thais need to care for themselves and their family first. Where people struggle everyday to earn a living and have the burden of paying doctor fees for their sick parents and school fees for their kids, caring for others need to be done by others. Middle class is not very strong in Thailand and hard working, leaving not much time to spare.

Of course there are rich Thais, very rich Thais in Thailand. If they support any projects than they favour the Royal Projects.

Now, we are coming to the subject. Recently, I had the chance to attend an expat meeting, where a lot of different volunteer opportunities were introduced to newcomers. Below, I summarized a list to share with my readers:

Projects and NGO's that need volunteer support:

Pakkred Baby Home - Volunteers needed to go and play, feed and give lots of love to babies in the home. An ongoing commitment needs to be fulfilled as you will be assigned your ‘own’ baby. For more information regarding meeting places and times email deborah.joanne.c@gmail.com. Not for the weak hearts.

Camillian Home Volunteers are needed and appreciated to help children with disabilities and HIV. No qualifications or experience in a medical background required, just people willing to give a few hours a week, with a kind heart and a commitment in wanting to help.

Friends for All Children Volunteers needed to interact with babys at this home, this is a much smaller home than Pakred and so you aren’t necessarily ‘assigned’ a baby. Very nice, small well run organization.

Sister Joan's Milk Powder Run Volunteers go to the slums at Klong Toey and help distribute the milk powder that Sister Joan buys with donations from BWG and ANZWG every two weeks.

Sister Louise and Fatima Self Help Center (Good Shepard Bangkok) Teachers are needed here for the children and girls that Sisiter Louise has living in the residential home.

Fatima Shop always needs volunteers on Sukhumvit 33/1, near Villa Market, where the women from Sister Louises Self Help Center sell their products.

Goodwill Foundation needs volunteers to teach English to girls and women who are trying hard to improve their life and future employment prospects.

Operation Smile provides free surgeries to repair cleft lip, cleft palate and other facial deformities for children throughout the country. Volunteers are needed for found raising activities.

Helping Hands The project was started by a group of neighbours along with Anji Barker, Australian national and long-time Klong Toey resident. The initial project was Klong Toey Handicrafts, which now employs about 60 women in the Klong Toey community (slum). Other successful initiatives are Cooking with Poo, Helping Hands Catering, and Helping Hands Fresh Food Delivery. The newest initiative is the Munjai Café, scheduled to open in January 2013. Your support is always welcome!

Additionally, I want to mention two more activities by the British Women Group (BWG):
- visiting British (or other nationalities) detained in Thai prisons (they need to talk)
- helping to re-unite refugy families detained in immigration prison (in Soi Suanplu, Sathorn)

Expat Women's Groups which are well organized in supporting the above and other local projects are:

BWG (British Women's Group) Welfare

SILC (Samutprakan International Ladies Club) welfare projects

ANZWG (Australian New Zealand Women's Group) Volunteer Opportunities

AWC (American Women's Club of Thailand) Community Projects

If you have no time to commit yourself to a project - or don't feel ready to help (actually you need to be kind of strong for some of the projects), then you can still do something for charity:

Donate coins, hotel amnendities, clothes, furniture, ... Don't throw away anything!

Spare Coin Donations
"Take care of the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves!" Collect small change or just empty your purse. There is always a monk alms bowl at the morning coffe's of BWG and ANZWG to collect your coins. They go to Sister Joan to pay for all kind of little things like motor taxi (for messangers or kids school transpo) or breakfast for kids (15 baht/kid) etc.

In-Flight and Hotel Amentities

They are yours, but you don’t need them? – The BWG collects toiletries for the families in the detention centre will benefit greatly from them.

The AWC collects all shampoo, conditioner, lotion, soap, toothbrushes & toothpaste, new combs and brushes to give to those who cannot afford to buy them. Please bring your donations to the AWC Clubhouse.

Old Clothes, Shoes, Toys, Household Items, Furniture etc

Whatever it is don’t throw it away! Even warm winter clothes can be helpful in Thailand! Drop them with some of the BWG members. They will organise collection and transportation to the North (to an orphanage and community project) every forth night.

AWC Thrift Shop

AWC maintains a resale store to raise funds to support philanthropic programs. When you give your gently used items ~ clothing shoes, knickknacks, small appliances, etc. ~ at the Thrift Shop, ask to have purchases credited to Account #227, Community Projects. The proceeds will make a difference for many people!

Used stamps and canned drink ring pulls

Ring pulls are melted down and used in the production of prosthetic limb joints!

If you have any donated goods and are not sure what to do with them, you can donate directly to the following charities, which will speed up the process of giving, as well as helping out the welfare team! Places To Take Your Donations to:

The Fatima Shop – Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 (down the side soi next to Villa on 33) Tel: 02-258-5065

SCAD (Soi Cats and Dogs) – Cat & Dog food and accessories, old towels and linen – SCAD Foundation, 712/3 Soi Puengmee 40 (Boonthip), Sukhumvit Road, Soi 93. Tel: 02 730 3506

Mercy Centre and HDF (Human Development Foundation)- 100/11 Kae-Ha, Klong Toey 4, Dhamrongrattaphiphat Road, Klongtoey Tel: 022 67153132

Gift of Happiness Foundation – 30 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110. Tel: +66 (0)2-259-4535 Fax: +66 (0)2-260-0448 Email: info@gohappiness.org www.gohappiness.org Registration number; Kor Tor 1914 VAT: 3-0337-6259-4. A non profit organisation.

And then there are also fun activities that support fund raising for charity or a good project::

Crafting (sale of crackers, greeting cards etc raises money) with BWG
in general Balls and Gala dinners often have raffles lotteries and silent auctions to fund raise
even the "Melbourne's Cup" event raises funds for charity by ANZWG
Ploenchit Faire (once a year end of November, located now at Patana School) by BCTFN
Thai Craft Fair (supports villagers in self-reliance and craftsmanship)
Cooking with Poo (supports self-reliance of Klongtoey community) a popular cooking class and catering

and many more...

If you know any other Volunteer Opportunity and Welfare Group, please let me know. Send me a comment, I am more than happy to update this list!!

Kop Khun kah!

InterNations features my blog and interview

2012-10-29T14:15:00.000+07:00

InterNations features my blog and interview

InterNations seems to be a great social network for expats. You can find information about the country you are moving to - or you are already living in - but maybe even more interesting, you can socialize with fellow expats and meet bloggers in your area! It is not the first and only expat platform out there in the www, but it seems a very professional one.

When I was thinking to post about my interview with them, I did not intend to write much about InterNations. But my curiosity and writer ego let me ask the question: who is behind InterNations? Or how are they different from other expat sites?

It's a German company (GmbH) based in Munich, Germany. Their registered members are expats around the world. Many of them are working in NGOs or have a diplomatic background. They also have their own InterNations blog. But I could not find a "founder".

Expat blogs are featured "by invitation only" - resulting in a small but good selection. And here we are, how I met with this organisation? I was contacted by them for an interview and in exchange for that interview, I was "allowed" to use a badge saying: "Top Expat Blog Bangkok - recommended by InterNations". And of course, I would get a link to my blog from their site. The badge I uploaded right away, it looked serious... smart move of IN ;-)

But it took me months to write the answers to their questions (summer holidays!). Finally it's done. I know, that people moving abroad search the Internet for information. And if my experience is a little helpful, I am happy to share. Click here for my full interview.

So far, there are five Bangkok bloggers featured. I enjoy reading their blogs, some are my favourite Bangkok blogs listed in my blogroll. We were all asked to send in a photo of us showing where we live - or from the area we live. I decided to take a picture of my balcony. I really love the view into the green private gardens around our condo with neon city lights in the background.

If you want to know more about InterNations, here is a little info I copied from their site:

InterNations is an expatriates community for people living and working abroad as well as all ʺglobal mindsʺ. Expats are welcome to join our network of like-minded people within a community of trust and confidence, connecting expatriates with other expats in their new place of residence. We are present with over 250 local expatriate communities around the world uniting members of 180 nationalities, all expats working for international companies, political and non-governmental organizations or diplomatic missions. On InterNations, expatriates can find advice on the expatriate life and local support all over the world. Our expat guide and the local forums offer helpful tips on places to see and things to know for expats. Every month, top-class InterNations events take place in numerous communities world-wide, giving expatriates the chance to meet other expats in an exclusive and international environment. InterNations provides a unique platform for expatriates to network and interact within a cosmopolitan community geared towards the special needs of expatriates.

I have to admit, I am not a member yet, but maybe will - their monthly events sound interesting. Anyone any idea what they are up to in Bangkok?

Photo Shoot: Terminal 21

2012-10-08T20:53:00.000+07:00

Terminal 21 main entrance hall

Shortly after the Klong Toey market photo shoot, our photographer's group met again. Since it was April and very hot in Bangkok, we welcomed the change to an air conditioned indoor location: Terminal 21.

It is not yet another shopping mall in Bangkok downtown, that opened its doors in October 2011, it is an unusual one. It airport terminal like main entrance leads to nine different city themed levels. London, Paris, Rome, Istanbul, San Francisco Pier and City, Caribbean, and Hollywood can be recognised on each floor in decoration, shop design, products on shelf, street signs, lighting, and even in the toilets.

les French toilettes

Tokyo Toilet

London Loo

I spent hours in Terminal 21, discovering floor by floor. The more I walked around the more I found for my lens. Unfortunately, the lens did not really work well that day, or was it the camera? It turned out, lots of shots were not sharp.

interesting view from San Francisco floor

What I did not know in April... that in August my hard disc drive of my computer at home will be unrecoverable damaged. Well, not that much of a loss regarding my Terminal 21 out come, but there were other more successful shoots before and after. Since I was too lazy or incapable to back up my photos on an external hard disc, I lost almost everything after January 2012 when I did my last backup.

However, we were able to recover some of my photos, while some where still on my camera's memory sticks. And some I can download from my own blog posts! Luckily I did not use watermark for all of them ;-) But even the specialist of an IT lab in Bangna did not find what I missed.

Anyway, here are a few pics from Terminal 21 (most via phone) ... If you live in Bangkok, Terminal 21 worth a visit. If you are visiting Bangkok, you might give it a try - a lot of boutique or stall owners are from Chatuchak market (or JJ market). It might be more convenient to shop at Terminal 21 for funny shirts or photo prints than at Chatuchak, as you avoid the rain, and the heat - and you have clean and fancy restrooms as well as a good choice of food. There are even movie theatres upstairs!

we heart Bangkok at Terminal 21

Terminal 21
Opening hours: 10 am - 10 pm
Sukhumvit between Soi 19 and Soi 21 (Asoke)
BTS Asoke, Exit 1

Photo Shoot: Klong Toey Market

2012-05-24T18:20:00.003+07:00

The Klong Toey Market is Bangkok's largest "wet" market. And this is where we, some aspiring photographers, went for our latest field trip. After a civilised morning coffee at our meeting point, we were dropped off on Rama IV, near the Rajadapisek (Asoke) crossing, the "main" entrance of the market.

The first lane of stalls, located between a klong (canal) and the Rama IV road is the most smelly and gruesome area. It is were fresh fish and grilled fish is sold, and you can observe the handling in-between. Still alive ducks and gooses in cages next to grilled fellows. Frogs bundled in nets, and bloody skinned frogs - both kinds still alive and twitching.

I had to take one quick pic for documentation, but I am putting it at the very end of this post:

thinking of becoming a vegetarian ...

These ladies really enjoyed having their picture taken!

warm-up exercise :capture something blue (rice for sale)

a composition of fresh fishes

a colourful market "scene"

production of thin pan cakes, and a girl in love?

refreshing drinks: syrup on ice in plastic bags

fruit and vegetable stalls with carrier

my favourite : reflections after the rain and smoking guy

Gruesome: skinned frogs, twitching, and blood dripping on the floor

Well, if you don't want to see gruesome food chain and smell nasty odours, just leave out the first lane along the big road Rama 4. There is a reason why these markets are called "wet" markets. They sell fresh fish and meat and the floors underneath these stalls are wet from drippings of melting ice, leaking baskets and blood.

Our photo shoot took about 1 1/2 hours and we all enjoyed it. One thing I realised when visiting Klong Toey market is that it is a colourful sight worth seeing while in Bangkok. For all visitors, tourists and residents. But make sure you are able to take a shower after visiting, because splashing fishes might leave fishy smells on you ...

Happy Songkran ! - Happy New Year!

2012-04-06T07:00:00.000+07:00

Happy Songkran Day! - Suksan Wan Songkran !

Songkran is celebrated in Thailand as the traditional Thai New Year festival from 13 -17 of April (every year same date). This festival is also known as "water festival", when people are throwing tons of water at each other to mark the end of the hot and dry season. Beside that, Thai people celebrating Songkran as a Buddhist festival may also go to a temple to pray and give food to monks. They may clean Buddha images at home or temples by gently pouring water mixed with a Thai fragrance over them. It is believed that doing this will bring good luck and prosperity for the New Year.

I am not sure if the artist of these images had Songkran in mind, in the exhibition it is not stated, but the images come right in time to wish a Happy Songkran to all Thai people. BTW, the rainy season has started earlier this year - thanks Buddha, since the heat became unbearable! Happy water splashing!

Source:
These beautiful photos are part of an exhibition called "Buddha Image Talks" that displays 55 photos of Buddha statues taken by Semkhun Kunawong. The photographer is a local artist who is committed to cultural preservation.

For the splashed Buddha images he used a Super 5 shutter speed of 1/40,000s and short-duration flashes.

(seen at Emporium Shopping Mall in Bangkok, exhibition lasts April 3-16, catalogue available).

11 Reasons We Love Chaophraya Express Boat Taxis

2012-04-05T06:00:00.000+07:00

Chaophraya River Taxi Boat

Our favourite public transportation in Bangkok - beside the sky train - are the river taxis - or Chayophraya Express boats.

And the reasons why to take the water transportation - when visiting a friend who lives a long the river, the Grand Palace or Wat Pho, the Flower Market, River City Shopping Centre, Khao San Road, Suan Thip Restaurant near Nanthaburi Pier or Ko Kret - are:

River taxis are fun! It is exciting to jump on and off the "river bus" and sit in one of these 70ies plastic chairs near the water and get splashed (or not)
They are fast - the whistle is long and loud and means departure!
They offer authentic travel among locals, school kids, business men, monks
The rides are scenic as you travel on the best part of Bangkok, the Chaophraya river, river of kings, along impressive bridges, luxury hotels, famous temples, and embassies and residences in charming villas.
You avoid being stucked in traffic jam, especially in Chinatown, and on Friday afternoons
you avoid the hassle with cap drivers, whether they take you or not and if yes, would they put the meter?
They don't take you to jewellery shops or tailors as the tuk tuk drivers would
They are cheap - Sapan Taksin to Tha Tien (Wat Poh) one way is 15 baht (tickets are sold on board)
The wind blows you some cool air around your nose - a nice change of Bangkok's heat!
Travelling on water gives you almost the same feeling as on a klong tour, in case you have not the spare hour or money to do so.
You will see many different ways of water transportation from heavy barges to speedy jet skis. Bring your camera!

bright yellow and orange seats

orange rings to hold for the standing passengers

leaving the city behind with the river taxi

enjoying the fresh breeze

seeing many different bridges along the river ride

being passed by jet skiers

spotting temples

Number 8 or Tha Tien River Taxi Stop

The express boat service starts in the South at Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way up North to Nonthaburi (N30), with stops along old Bangkok including the Grand Palace (at Tha Chang) and Wat Pho (at Tha Tien). The closest pier to Khao San Road is Phra Arthit. The boats run every 5-20 minutes from sunrise to sunset (roughly from 06:00-19:00).

Details:

There are different boat lines indicated by the colour of the flag at the top of the boat. The best line to take is the orange flag line as it runs every day, is fairly quick and stops at all major tourist areas.

There is a basic "no flag" line (9, 11 or 13 baht) that goes along all the piers, but it only runs during rush hours and is fairly slow. It is better to take the faster yellow flagged boat (19 or 28 baht, Monday-Friday 6:15- 8:10 and 15:30-18:05) and orange flagged boat (15 baht, every day 6:00-19:00). But ask before you board if the boat stops where you want to go. The yellow line is the fastest, but skips piers near Khao San Road, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

Don't get confused with a very similar looking blue flagged Tourist Boat. It stops at the tourist attractions and offers comments in English - sometimes hard to understand. However, if you jump accidentally on one of these boats, no big deal, it is just slightly more expensive, but probably has more free seats available. A single ride tickets is 25 baht. They only operate every 30 minutes and stop running by 15:00.

Photo Shoot: Wat Pho Bangkok

2012-04-02T15:46:00.001+07:00

Reclining Buddha at Wat Poh

A group of ladies, mainly British, interested in improving their photo taking skills, met up early one day at Sapan Taksin Pier. When the river taxi arrived, they all hoped on board, and with a loud and long whistle the river taxi continued its journey on the Chaophraya river up North.

When the sound of coins shaked in a box approached us, we purchased our taxi tickets (15 baht one way) from a lady dressed in orange.

The river taxi passed the Oriental Hotel and French Embassy on the right and the Peninsula Hotel on the left, and a few stops later the Memorial bridge (Flower market). When Wat Arun can be spotted on the left, then it's time to prepare for the hop off at Tha Tien, river taxi stop number 8.

Pass the smelly dried fish market stands and cross the small road ahead and you have reached Wat Pho. My favourite "Must See Spot" in Bangkok. This temple, also known as Wat Chetuphon, is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok.

smaller Buddha image in front of the reclining Buddha

Wat Pho is famous for it's large "reclining Buddha". This golden statue is about 15 meters high and 46 meters long. When you are lucky, there are not too many tourists and you can take great pictures. And if you need some good luck, and like to make a wish, and support the wat, change a 20 Baht note into 80 "satangs" (1/4 Baht coin) behind the Buddha image and drop - one by one - into the 108 metal bowls.

many hundred Buddha images in rows

every Buddha has a different face

Chinese lion guarding a gate at Wat Poh

Whenever we have friends visiting, I send them to Wat Po and not to the Grand Palace. And sometimes, I join them, but I never go to the Grand Palace (in order to avoid the scam and dress code hassle over there).

Wat Po is more lively than the Grand Palace, and less "grand". It is definitely more exciting, especially for kids to discover these temple grounds with all the funny stone animals and impressive Chinese stone guards.

a thirsty calf on the temple grounds

a thirsty cat at Wat Pho

a Chinese man below a cooling waterfall

The main sanctuary looks similar to the one at the Grand Palace that hosts the Emerald Buddha. Here however, the Buddha image is a golden one.

Thai art student at work

colours of Wat Poh

Wat Pho also is known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage and hosts the first and most famous Thai massage school of Bangkok. Visitors can enjoy a traditional massage in the northern part of the temple grounds.

There is so much to discover at Wat Pho: 91 chedis covered with colourful ceramic pieces (similar to Wat Arun), small and large Chinese stone statues, over 400 Buddha images, stone reliefs at the medicine pavilion, decorative glass and mirror mosaics, colourful roof tiles, thisty cats ... And this is why a local expat group had chosen this temple for another photo shoot.

avoid traffic jam and hassle with taxi driver: take the public river taxi

reach Wat Poh by river taxi, pier Tha Tien, number 8

Travelling back in Time: Wat Nivet Dhamma Prawat Compound

2012-03-30T06:00:00.000+07:00

a bride and a groom posing for their wedding photo album

There is a small island in the Chao Phraya River near Bang Pa-in Summer Palace. It is a serene and tranquil realm on the river, and can only be reached by boat or an iron cage lift across the river. Reaching the island already seems like travelling back in time.

our expedition over the Chao Phraya river

The freshly yellow ocre painted monks quarters and houses make you feel like having entered a different country - located somewhere around the Mediterranean Sea.

monks frock drying in the sun

blossoms of a Cannon Ball tree giving off a sweet smell

young artists practicing their drawing skills

The history of Bang-Pa-in goes back to Ayutthaya period, but the area became a popular retreat for Bangkok kings in the 19th century.

On this island, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) founded Wat Nivet Dhamma Prawat in 1878. The neo-Gothic architecture of this Buddhist temple compound is something very unique. The main sanctuary which has French stained glass windows looks like a Gothic church. The King noted that the reason to construct such an unusual buidling as a Buddhist temple was to "pay homage to Buddhism by offering soemthing very extraordinary".

The temple was built before King Chulalongkorn had visited Europe. However, he did make a trip to Singapore in 1870 where he saw the British neo-Gothic architecture. The architect of this temple was Giochino Grassi, an Italian from Trieste.

follow the sign and you won't miss it

A Chinese Temple in Ayutthaya

2012-03-29T06:00:00.000+07:00

Wat Phanan Choeng (or Wat Phananchoeng) is located in a predominantly Chinese area of the old capital Ayutthaya, along the Pasak and Chao Phraya rivers, just across the Pom Phet Fort.

This Thai Buddhist temple has two Chinese pavilions near the river. The two-storey shrine (photo above and below) is dedicated to a Chinese noble woman, Jao Maa Soi Dok Mak, who came to Siam and was supposed to become a concubine of a Thai King. According to the legend, when the King entered the city, she refused to follow him. Instead she held her breath (or jumped into the river) and died.

the shrine for the Chinese Princess who drowned herself

The temple's prayer hall has paintings which date to 1889 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and show scenes of Chinese life.

Why there are Chinese shrines in this temple?
The Chinese had been trading with Southeast Asia centuries before Ayutthaya was founded in 1351. Many traders, however, left China after the Ming emperor banned private overseas trade in 1371. They settled in Ayutthaya and with them came the junks and more goods were transported on the rivers. It took five days to travel from Bangkok to Ayutthaya in these days.

Bells to ring for good luck, and white lotus flowers and yellow garlands offering.

Thai Spirit House outside the Temple

Ayutthaya: Pom Phet or Diamond Fortress

2012-03-28T06:00:00.000+07:00

We are continuing our excursion "Ayutthaya from a Foreign Perspective" (see previous posts).

According to Prince Damrong, this fort was originally constructed shortly after the first attack of the Burmese in 1549. It is strategically located to protect the island of Ayutthaya.

travelling back in time...

.. and taking pictures with iphone (!)

Since we were on our excursion with "Dante" and on the track of the first foreigners in Ayutthaya - when the city was the trading center of Asia - we were lectured the following by our guide who has a BA in history and a fond interest in Thai history:

The original fort was possibly constructed with guidance form the Portuguese.

In 1655, the Italian Jesuit Tomaso Valguernera who was from Sicily came to Ayutthaya with a French mission. When King Narai (1656-1688) learned of his architectural skills, the Jesuit was employed to rebuilt Pom Phet and other forts along the Chao Phraya River. He remained in Siam for 15 years and assisted with other constructions including the walls of the city. He left Siam for only two years to travel elsewhere in Asia, but returned to Siam where he died in 1677.

The earliest known representation of the fort was in a painting by Johann Vingboons published in 1665.

fishermen on the Chao Phraya river

Source:
text partially via Jane Purananda, Dante Alighieri Association Bangkok
photos by CC

Ayutthaya: Wat Suwandaram

2012-03-27T06:00:00.000+07:00

I liked this temple. It is beautifully located on the island of Ayutthaya. It is a small temple, where you can take your time to explore details and take good picture - temple with holy tree, temple with golden rain shower tree or temple with palm trees. However, the reason why this temple was on our Ayutthaya excursion program are its murals.

Wat Suwandaram prayer hall

The temple was built by Tong Dee, father of the Bangkok King Rama I. Thong Dee was a grandson of Kosa Pan, the Siamese Ambassador sent to France in 1668 at the time of King Narai.

Wat Suwandaram Ratchaworawihan prayer hall

prayer hall and white stupa

Rama I had the temple restored after he become King.
The temple's main sanctuary has beautiful mural paintings dating to the early Bangkok period.

The wall paintings tell us a lot about the old times: about costumes and fabrics, about customs and traditions, stories and myths, the tools that were available, and architecture.

Further more, inside the main sanctuary there are several Buddha statues, and a beautifully decorated red wooden ceiling.

King Naresuan wins over the Burmese invaders

The prayer hall has more modern paintings which show King Naresuan's victory over the Burmese.

At that time, the armies were fighting on elephants. The Burmese king is the dead person behind the mahout on the right.

Ayutthaya: Wat Chaiwattanaram

2012-03-26T13:14:00.000+07:00

Wat Chai Watthanaram

Last Saturday, we joined a trip to Ayutthaya organised by the Italian culture group "Societa' Dante Alighieri". The excursion's theme was "Ayutthaya from a Foreign Perspective".

In the 16th and 17th century, Ayutthaya was one of the leading trading centres in Asia that attracted merchants, missionaries, mercenaries and adventurer from the whole world. Among them were Portuguese, Dutch, Chinese and Japanese traders, French missionaries, and a few Italian architects and engineers.

watermarks and a no entry sign remind of the recent flood

We started by travelling "back in time" to Wat Chaiwattanaram (or Wat Chai Watthanaram) to understand what Ayutthaya was like four or five hundred years ago. The Europeans who visited Asia back then were astounded by what they saw. So was our group of foreigners - including a few Italians.

This impressive temple was built in 1639 by King Prasat Thong in memory of his mother. The layout and architecture of the monument have strong Khmer influence.

mango tree with fruits on the temple's ground

Although the temple was not accessible for visitors as there is still danger of collapse due to the last devastating flood (October - December 2011), it is possible to walk along the border and along the Chaopraya river to get a good impression of that beautiful temple.

It feels like spring when Bangkok trees are blooming!

2012-03-19T17:05:00.000+07:00

There are not much other signs from nature giving a hint in which season you are living, when living in Thailand.

yellow blooming trees in my soi

There is the hot season and the hotter season - or the rainy season and the less rainy season. But for me, grown up in Europe, blooming flowers and trees are a sign for spring! And even if the trees in Thailand seem to have blossoms all year round - right now, it's spring time for me!

Every day, I see more and more yellow blossoms on the trees in my soi (above).

And then there is that orange tree that looks like being on fire. I found different names for this beautiful red blooming tree due its growing in various parts of the world. Delonix Regia, Royal Poinciana or Flamboyant are a few. It is also one of the trees that are commonly called Flame Tree:

looks like the building is on fire

my favourite tree in Bangkok, red Flame Tree

The yellow Chaiyapruek or Ratchaphruek tree, some call it Golden Shower Tree, we have spotted already end of February. Maybe because it was not "really cold" (less hot than hot) this "winter", "spring" started early in Bangkok.

Chaiyapruek or Golden Shower Tree

A Girl's Birthday, a CHANEL Bag, and a Chocolate Cake

2012-03-12T22:40:00.000+07:00

The other day, I dropped into a friend's house. It happened that the day before, it was her daughter's seventh birthday. And there I saw the CHANEL bag. A very nice, not too small, and not too big hand bag made from black leather - from French luxury brand CHANEL!

I was amazed to hear that it was the birthday gift from the Thai landlord, who lives across the street.

Well, isn't this extremely exaggerated? I thought. A Chanel bag for a seven year old?!
I felt reminded of the bling-bling wedding car...

And the birthday girl's older brother kept wondering why the bag was sitting on a golden cardboard...

Until the father lit the candles ...

... and we all sang HAPPY BIRTHDAY !

It was the most original birthday cake I have seen! It looked damn real!

But the best was, it even tasted fantastic!

Usually you can't eat those sugar coated cakes, but this one - excellent, totally yummy the chocolate!

I need to find out who "baked" the bag! - Great quality, great fun! (sanuk!)

Thai Language Sanuk: Learning the Japanese Way

2012-03-05T13:18:00.002+07:00

My Thai teacher likes to start the class with a little test. So, she gives me a paper with sentences, and there is a blank for the verb. The exercise is to fill in the right Thai word.

One example from last week's class:

10) "Dichan .............. saamii pay Thaniya."

In English: "I .............. husband goes Thaniya".

For those not familiar with Thanon Thaniya or Thaniya Plaza, this is the Soi 4 of Silom Road where you can find a lot of Japanese Bars, restaurants, and karaoke clubs especially for Japanese, where the Thai ladies even speak some Japanese to attract their customers. Soi 4 is located just next to Soi 6 - of course, you will say - but you know Soi 6? It is better known as Patpong - Bangkok's oldest street of lust with dozens of go go bars.

While I was wondering about what to fill to complete this sentence, my teacher explains me, that this is a sentence for Japanese women who come to learn Thai in this school.

So, I say: "mai choop? - Dichan mai choop samii pay Thaniya?" - "I don't like that my husband goes to Thanyia Road?"

My teacher corrects me: Actually, she says, here you would use the word "haam" - "forbid".

I think it's hilarious and interesting that Japanese spouse learn this sentence:
"Dichan haam saamii pay Thaniya!" - "I forbid my husband to go to Thaniya"

In that way I am not only learning Thai but also getting a cultural insight about Japanese living in Thailand. What I learnt is:

Japanese men, married or not, love to go to Thaniya
They go there with other men, not with their wives
They go there for Japanese food, drinks and karaoke (including girls)
Japanese wives are not approving this Bangkok night life spot that is so popular among Japanese
Japanese women are strict with their husbands, they forbid them things they do not approve!
It seems a general issue among Japanese expat families since the Thai language school adopted this sentence into their exercises.
My Thai school has many Japanese customers - which is great news - it means that Japanese expats are willing to learn the Thai language (it is often encouraged and paid by their companies).

About Bangkok nightlife, to be honest, it can be a problem for any family or couple, no matter what nationality - including Thai. And so this sentence that my teacher used - which is actually not in the official school book, but in her self made test - could work for every student (with a husband) in Bangkok. However, I still would use the verb "may choop", instead of "haam" because I think "prohibition makes curious".

Thai Language Sanuk: Passa Karaoke

2012-03-01T08:14:00.000+07:00

This week, during my Thai class, my teacher and I were laughing together about yet another strange thing in Thai language. My teacher, however, is so fantastic that she can explain me everything quiet well and she understands why I am confused just once again. That makes me feel less stupid - and less frowning about the logic of Thai language - and keep on going.

While I was scribbling down the new expression I just learnt, I thought I need to collect all these small highlights, writing them down neatly back home. Otherwise they will be gone the moment I leave the classroom.

About in the same time, the idea was born to write a short post every week after my class. Mainly for myself, so I can look up things that I forgot (which happens most of the time!). And of course for you, the reader, who is reading these lines, because when you have come so far, you might enjoy some "sanuk" (fun) about Thai language as well to keep you going with the learning.

However, when you are fluent in Thai, you hopefully have found by now a more interesting post on my blog.

So, for the remaining reader, let me explain briefly about Thai : The beautiful Thai script has 44 consonant symbols, 15 vowel symbols that combine into about 28 vowel, and - unfortunately - four tone marks - for five tones (!). Therefore, when you start learning Thai, it is more convenient to work with a phonetic transcription into Latin alphabet.

I know from learning Mandarin, that its phonetic standard writing is called pinyin. It is even taught in China's primary schools. So, I was looking for the corresponding word here in Thailand. But there seems no universal standard transliteration yet that is commonly used *). Every language school tries its own. Even the road signs have no standard transcription: "Sukhumvit" and "Pattaya" can also be found as "Sukumvit" and "Pathaya" and there are more versions.

But what made me laugh today? - Actually, it was the teacher's answer to my question how the phonetic transcription of the Thai language is called.

She thought for a moment and then said: "passa ka-ra-OK".
Any idea what this is?
Passa is Thai and means language.
Thai language is PASSA THAI and English is PASSA ANGRIT.
But today, I heard for the first time of "PASSA KARAOKE".
Well, you know what karaoke is, but karaoke language?

Thai Karaoke song with supbtitles in Thai script and "Passa Karaoke" latin script
Kao Pen Krai (Who is him?) screen shot via YouTube

My teacher explained to me, that "Passa Karaoke" is used among Thais to describe the romanized phonetic writing of their language. It is what often appears on Karaoke screens as subtitle below the Thai script. And Thais love Karaoke. Sanuk maak maak! (lot's of fun) It's a national sport. They grow up with it - with "passa ka ra OK".

useful links:
Thai Language Transliteration
online Thai dictionary
*) Two methods of Thai transcription: Royal Thai General System of Transcription, ISO 11940

A Bling Bling Wedding Car

2012-02-24T20:37:00.000+07:00

A Bling Bling Wedding Car in Bangkok

Recently, we stumbled over this amazing wedding car. The Mercedes-Benz 300 SL gull wing was parked in front of the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. When we walked by the car, I realised that not only the car itself is special, but the paintwork :

It had a bling bling finish !

To the big wedding of a young, good looking, and - evidently - rich Thai couple about 2,000 (!) guests were invited. For the party the entire first floor of the hotel was rented. "T.I.T." (this is Thailand) does not stop here. One of the wedding gifts was parked outside and wrapped with a big ribbon and bow. I did not check the paintwork of that vehicle though. We were already late...

The personalised Bling Bling finish of the MB SL

Photo Shoot: Pak Klong Talad Flower Market

2012-02-08T22:10:00.000+07:00

The flower market or Pak Klong Talat was our destination for another photo shoot tour, I enjoyed a lot. We got off at Taksin Bridge BTS station and took the river taxi to Memorial Bridge. This is the easiest, fastest and most pleasant way to travel - by public speed boat on the Chaopraya river - from Taksin Bridge to the Chinatown, flower market, Wat Po or Grand Palace.

From the Memorial Bridge it is only a stone throw away. First you will see the vegetable sellers, maybe some ice carvers and further North towards the main street, you will find the flowers. Pak Klong Talat is open all day. But it is much more busy at night when fresh flowers are delivered and local customers buy in large volumes.

Here are my favourite pics:

a heart shape would make a Valentine card

roses neatly packed

roses in the usual newspaper wrap

orchids in all colours and shapes

market stall reflected in ceiling

yellow flowers for garlands

lunch on wheels

still need some training with panning shoots

chilies and cyclist

For the photo club review and friendly competition, we had to choose one picture. One only. Since the subject was flower market, I opted for the funny reflection picture. But there are some others with more experience and a wide angle capture of a vegetable stall won. Maybe the heart shape rose pack in the first picture would had more of a chance since Valentine is near, but I thought this pic is too boring, shoot a million times. Anyway, it was another interesting morning in Bangkok that some of us ended with a nice lunch on the river.

Bangkok Taxi

2012-02-02T16:01:00.000+07:00

Monk in Thai Taxi

Although taking a taxi in Bangkok does not cost much, it is not really what people generally enjoy. And I do not think of smelly sun dried onions or loud Thai country songs that the passenger has to bear if the driver enjoys it. And I am not starting to discuss driving capabilities.

The main problem, I would say, is that most drivers are from up-country, don't know their ways around the capital and don't speak a word of English. Then there a the taxi drivers that pretend to not know their ways and go around in circles in order to make more money on the meter. Or ask up front a higher amount. Or just don't take you for all kind of reasons.

Yes, I am familiar with the taxi drivers situation. Some of the poor guys have to rent the car for 1,000 baht per shift and have to give it back clean and filled up at the end of their shift - also a reason why they can't go far at the end of their shift.

However, I prefer the skytrain over a taxi. But sometimes friends or restaurants are not close to a BTS station. I feel better taking a taxi when I know my way, so I can explain in Thai, not only the address, but also the direction to go the fastest way. If I don't know how the ride will be, I try to relax, trust the driver, and enjoy the taxi interior "still life".

Since I came across the "Still live in Moving Vehicles" blog and the Thai Taxi Talisman book, both by artist Dale Konstanz, I got inspired. I take a picture of the "still life" in front of me and play around with my iphone apps to pass the time in traffic.

BTW, taking a picture of the taxi license or of the number inside or even the drivers id that is always on display, might give a more secured feeling. At least it shows the driver that someone is aware... just in case you have to travel alone in the middle of the night. I always try to make sure, that guards or friends have seen the taxi license. Hotel staff usually notes it for you.

Sometimes, I also ask if I can take a picture, as I do not want to irritate the driver. Which leads to another subject. Do not argue with a taxi driver. If you are really feeling annoyed or taken in circles and he won't listen, just get out of the car, pay the fee or don't - but don't yell at the driver or kick the door, or what ever ... it might end up in hospital - for you - or even worse. The problem is alcohol and drugs, that makes someone to become a monster.

If this sounds all too negative, go over to Still life in Moving Vehicles and get the positive stories written by a "Bangkok Taxi addict". I especially enjoyed the insight about the creepy road accident rescuers and the fun Porsche taxi advertising video.

the bright side of a taxi ride

flower garlands in Thonglor at night

And if you are happy with your taxi driver and arrive safe and sound at your destination give him a nice tip. It's not required but much appreciated.

Colours of Bangkok: A Grey Day

2012-01-30T10:42:00.001+07:00

traffic on Sukhumvit road

Today is a grey day in Bangkok. It was raining during the night until the early morning hours. During break of dawn the sky was yellow. The good thing is that it's a bit cooler today. And even during a grey day in Bangkok, there are plenty of colours in the streets.

Shopping: Acrylic Buddhas

2012-01-26T17:33:00.001+07:00

yellow transparent acrylic Buddha

Last weekend, during Chinese New Year, my friends proposed a quick trip to Chatuchak aka JJ Market. We wanted to check out a stall that one of them had recently discovered and where she had acquired a couple of colourful acrylic Buddha statues.

small colourful acrylic Buddha statues

So we hopped on a taxi. Traffic was not too bad. However, it took a moment to find the shop again. And it was hot. We walked by some very good paintings. I forgot that I used to come here regularly in the late 90ies and enjoyed it.

The small statues are transparent or mat and have a kind of golden antique finish. However, the larger statues look at least as good! What a difficult choice!

large acrylic Buddhas both with matt and golden finish

Via my phone I mailed a friend the picture above directly from the site, asking her which one she would prefer for herself. (I told her an hour earlier about the shopping trip). This is a new dimension of online shopping! She opted for the orange one (in the picture above it looks too golden).

Two hours later I was already back home and did not only collected colourful impressions, but also some decorative objects:

The large orange Buddha

Buddha in spot light

small transparent Buddhas in orange, yellow and clear

Personally, I was interested in the clear transparent colours, but the owner of the shop said that with Western tourists the matt and golden finish is more popular. However, he promised, in two weeks, he would bring some clear ones for me to have a look.

Happy Chinese New Year from Bangkok

2012-01-21T19:36:00.001+07:00

You may know that Thai people like to have fun (sanuk) and that they don't miss out any celebration including Halloween and Christmas. But do you know that Thai people also celebrate three times "New Year" - in one year?

The first New Year celebrations were on December 31 to welcome the Western 2012.

Chinese New Year decoration in Bangkok Chinatown 2012

This weekend Thai, especially Thai-Chinese, celebrate Chinese New Year to welcome the Year of the Dragon (starting Monday, January 23rd 2012). Most of the dragon and lion dances in Bangkok will take place in Chinatown where the streets are decorated festive.

A dragon collecting donations for Chinese New Year

Donors get an orange from the Dragon at Bangkok Flower Market

Red lanterns for Chinese New Year in Bangkok near Flower Market

A dragon in Chinatown Bangkok for Chinese New Year 2012

Dragon dancers running through the streets of Chinatown Bangkok

The third and last New Year celebrations in Thailand will be mid April (13-15/16, 2012) when Thai people celebrate their own New Year. This year, they celebrate to welcome the Thai Year 2555 after the Buddhist calendar. The festival is called Songkran and celebrated as the water festival.

Happy New Year !

xīn nián kuài lè !

(Happy New Year in mandarin)

gōng xǐ fā cái

(congratulations and be prosperous)

or just

Sawadee pee mai

(for "happy New Year" in Thai language - can be used three times a year!)