AMS 2026 Season

Denali (McKinley) May 21 Expedition Has Begun

2026-05-21T17:00:49.648-08:00

The May 21 Expedition led by Tyler Thompson, Madelyn Ferdock and Will Plavonic started at 1:00 PM today.

The afternoon started with introductions and a briefing, then moved onto lunch packing and gear checking. Here are some photos from the day...

Guide Madelyn explaining teamwork and success.

Three kids in a candy store...

Guide Will and Klaudia reviewing gear.

Austin and Guide Tyler checking the list.

Guy has his Kit Kats!

This is what we like to see: ORGANIZATION (and lots of color!)

They will spend the night in Talkeetna and start tomorrow at 8:30 AM with a briefing with National Park Service Denali Mountaineering Rangers. Rest well, Team; it's a big day tomorrow!

Denali Prep is Prepping Big Time!

2026-05-21T16:44:22.573-08:00

Our Denali Prep Course, led by Ben Olwell and assisted by Emma Russell and Claire Bicknell, spent a full day yesterday with gear check, fixed-line ascension, lunch packing, and then... the Talkeetna Hang. The "hang" is part of the mountaineering game. If you can't fly into the mountains, then you are hanging in town.

They made good use of their time learning skills that they will use on the glacier.

Today they continued their lessons here at Headquarters. When they are able to fly into the Alaska Range they will be dialed and ready to head up the route!

Here are photos from the past two days.

Instructor Ben Olwell oversees knot tying.

Practicing good traveling techniques.

Students making dinner using our Whisperlite backpacking stoves.

We are using the remaining snow for some ice axe practice.

Update from the Mountains - May 21

2026-05-21T16:28:01.689-08:00

Stormy weather persists in the Alaska Range, and on Denali's West Buttress Route and Kahiltna Basecamp, all AMS Teams are making the most of it and making progress! Each of the major camps develops small communities, and the climbers often end up working together.

The May 3 Expedition, led by Brady McGuire and Tate Hughes, returned to Basecamp yesterday and is once again experiencing stormy weather. As a custom expedition, this team has the flexibility to pivot to other objectives. They certainly have made some of the most impressive walls at 11,000' camp, including an archway! We can't wait to see their photos when they return to AMS HQ in Talkeetna, weather permitting.

Packing the runway has to happen every time it snows. There are plenty of people willing to do this task! A packed runway is necessary for planes to land.

Here is the view from 7,200 ft. base camp earlier today.

The May 14 Expedition, led by Keith Sidle, Ben Farrar, and Aidan Whitelaw, moved camp to 10,000 feet yesterday and is feeling good. They are in stormy weather with 20-25 mph winds and have started the day with a 3-hour work session building snow-block walls to protect their camp and tents from the wind. When the weather breaks, they will move to the 11,000-foot camp today.

AMS Archive photo at 10,000 feet.

AMS Archive photo showing good snow walls and blowing snow.

Film Crew Safety, led by Tad McCrea, are working on plenty of projects based in Kahiltna Basecamp. They are keeping busy in the weather and taking advantage of windows of blue sky and sunshine. We are willing to bet that this team are de facto ambassadors at Basecamp at this point.

Cal Topo of the SE Kahiltna Glacier and Mount Hunter

Denali Expedition Update May 19th

2026-05-19T18:38:34.922-08:00

The May 3 Expedition led by Brady McGuire and Tate Hughes remains at the 11,000-foot camp. They report high winds and plenty of snowfall, so it is best to stay put, fortify, and maintain their camp. They have plenty of food and fuel.

The May 14 Expedition, led by Keith Sidle, Ben Farrar, and Aidan Whitelaw, made a carry and cached food, fuel, and extra high-altitude gear at 10,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday in whiteout/full-cloud conditions. Today, they remained at the 7,800-foot camp, as it is stormy at that elevation as well.

Spirits remain high with these teams as they experience some real mountain weather up there. This weather will bring their campcraft and snow-camping techniques to
near-expert level by the end of this.

Update From Our Denali Expeditions

2026-05-17T16:12:55.502-08:00

Brady McGuire's May 3 expedition is at the 11,000-foot camp. The weather on the West Buttress route has been challenging, with heavy snow and a lot of trail breaking. It improved the last copule of days so we expect the team to make a move.

This image, taken May 10 by National Park Mountaineering Ranger Scottie Barrier, shows the upper Kahiltna Glacier at 8000 feet.

Keith Sidle's May 14 Expedition has moved up the mountain to the 7800-foot camp. The first day is a hard one because you have to move camp in a "single carry." This means all of the gear goes in one trip with a heavy backpack and sled. After 7,800 feet they will do double carries ferrying supplies higher up the route. It is a stormy day today, so they are taking a rest day before starting the uphill carries.

It is five miles from Base Camp to the next camp. The elevation difference is only 600 feet because it is downhill, leaving the SE Fork of the Kahiltna and turning onto the main Kahiltna Glacier.

The West Buttress Route.

Here are two links for you to track the weather:

This webcam shows the view of the Main Kahiltna Glacier across from the Base Camp glacier:

KAHILTNA WEBCAM

If you are anxious about the weather, then click on this link:

MOUNTAIN FORECAST

For Fun:

Denali National Park Rangers patrol the park by dog team in winter. These are the new puppies in the Park's kennel:

PUPPY CAM

Meet our 2026 Interns

2026-05-17T14:38:51.756-08:00

Each year we host interns from Alaskan universities. They spend the summer learning and helping with everything from making lunch to fixing stoves to assisting in the field.

It is the intent of the AMS internship to build a solid base from which to pursue a career in outdoor education and mountain guiding.

Peter Sansbury comes to us from Prince William Sound College in Valdez.

Peter Sansbury stocking the food room.

Morgan Harris grew up in Fairbanks and comes to us from the University of Alaska Southeast in Juneau.

Intern Morgan Harris unloading the Costco order

We look forward to a great climbing season with these two. Many of our interns return as assistant guides and eventually lead guides.

Landed at Base Camp

2026-05-15T14:23:57.523-08:00

Our May 14 Denali Expedition, led by Keith Sidle, is on the glacier.

They enjoyed a hearty lunch at AMS and put on their action suits for the flight from Talkeetna at 370ft (112m). 45 minutes later, they landed at Kahiltna Base Camp at 7,200ft (2194m). They have a full afternoon of setting up their camp for the first night on the glacier.

Guides Ben and Keith with climbers, Alvaro, Hector, Kevin, Xavier, Victor and Guide Aidan.
(We hope Aidan brought a change of footwear :) )

Keith, Ben and Aidan chow down.

Another Expedition Getting Ready to Go

2026-05-15T11:01:45.796-08:00

Denali (McKinley) West Buttress Guides Keith Sidle, Ben Farrar, and Aidan Whitelaw and team have been busy at AMS headquarters checking gear, having their briefing with Denali National Park rangers, fixed line ascension, and, if weather allows, flying onto the glacier this afternoon!

Here are some photos from today's activities:

Alvaro practices fixed line ascension.

Andrew getting ready.

Gear sorting and packing.

Assistant Guide, Aidan helping with the rope work.

Denali West Buttress- Brady McGuire

2026-05-14T19:22:07.414-08:00

Snow walls around tents at 11,000' camp.

The team descended to 9,500' today to retrieve their cache of supplies. They made the move upward and will spend the night at 11,000' camp. They are doing great and are really dialing in their shoveling skills as they set up camp in the deep snow.

Two Teams Return !

2026-05-13T15:30:41.538-08:00

The May 12 Day led by David and Claire, and the custom Climbing Technical Expedition led by Ryan, have returned! We are so happy to see these folks and their smiling faces!

This spring, glacier air taxis have to be very strategic to take advantage of short, clear weather windows to fly in and out of the mountains and Kahiltna Basecamp. With more unstable weather predicted for tomorrow, these two teams have flown out one day early to avoid getting delayed beyond their end dates.

David, Renner, Claire, and Olivia

Ryan and Stuart

May 13th Update from our teams in the Alaska Range - busy day yesterday!

2026-05-13T13:13:24.814-08:00

YESTERDAY, May 12: All of our teams the the Alaska Range woke up to a nice sunny morning and made some progress toward their objectives. The afternoon brought more clouds and snow, spirits are good, and they are looking forward to a change in the weather.

The May 4th Custom Denali Expedition led by Brady McGuire and Tate Hughes moved up from 7,800' camp to aprox. 10,000' feet at Kahiltna Pass yesterday. They set up camp in the weather yesterday and their next move will be to break and move camp to the 11,000 foot camp, when the weather allows. It is much windier at their elevation compared to Kahiltna Basecamp. They are in good spirits and working hard up there.

12-Day Mountaineering Course led by David Kerner and Claire Pennell enjoyed the sunny morning yesterday and traveled / broke trail the 5 miles from 7,800' camp to 7,200' camp, Kahiltna Basecamp. They were warmly welcomed back at Basecamp by our other teams camped there. They are doing well and we look forward to seeing them soon!

Custom Climbing Team, led by Ryan Griffiths, took advantage of the good weather and climbed the first 4 pitches of Bacon 'n Eggs route on Mini Moonflower Buttress, way to make it happen. We will see this team soon!

AMS Film Crew Safety, led by Tad McCrea have been busy. They have set up a solid basecamp, met some filming needs and toured up to the base of Mt, Hunter to scope out their route and climbing conditions. They are now back at Kahiltna Basecamp, and are tracking the weather closely. This crew has plenty of time to wait and keep strong on nearby peaks and/or put on mileage touring on the beautiful Kahiltna Glacier while they wait.

AMS moving camp and breaking trail on the glacier, ready to get the show on the road.

When we are making a cache and traveling round trip. We mark the route with specially tagged bamboo wands to re-trace the route , in case the weather comes in. The last person back to basecamp retrives the wands, so we can reuse them on a another section of the route.

In stormy weather, a neat camp is critical to survival. In the mountains, you need all your gear, so a tidy camp makes it 100 times easier to find everything after snowfall. All of our teams will be experts int his department!

Happy Mother's Day from the Alaska Range

2026-05-10T14:58:00.000-08:00

To all the mothers who support their children's adventures...

Kerner's 12 Day Mountaineering Course members would like to send greetings to Moms: Eva, Shelly, Anne and Joanna!

They are making good use of their time in camp and enjoying the big snow walls they worked hard to build. This enables them to teach climbing skills and to refresh on crevasse rescue.

The blue dot represents their approximate location on the glacier.

These two AMS archived images show wall building before the storm and ...

What it looks like after a snow fall.

Brady McGuire's Denali Expedition is waiting another day before heading up the route to put in a gear cache. Weather days are built into Denali expeditions because we know they will happen! Their next move is to 9,800 feet. It is slow going so far with all of the fresh snow. This is one of the reasons we build storm proof camps.

Walls are built around the tents.

This is an example of the kitchen tent set up with seating and cooking area. This will become very cozy with the wind blocked by the snow walls.

6-Day Course Returns

2026-05-10T12:55:00.001-08:00

The 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Ayla Loper returned to Talkeetna with big smiles on their faces.

Tired but happy!

And here are a few pictures from their time in the Alaska Range:

They had some "weather" in there but still got around!

Fresh snow and trail breaking but also some blue sky.

Probing for crevasses while on belay.

Update from the Alaska Range

2026-05-09T14:41:00.002-08:00

David Kerner's 12-Day Mountaineering Course teamed up with McGuire's Denali Expedition, breaking trail from Kahiltna Base Camp. Conditions are challenging, and it was slow going, but they made it to the 7,800-foot on the West Buttress route. The snow keeps falling so having more people breaking trail really helps. Each person is wearing a backpack and pulling a sled, so a wide trail needs to be broken.

What fun for a course to be on the West Butt route of Denali! (Mt. McKinley).

After arriving at camp, the work begins building snow walls, setting up tents, and melting snow for water. They will sleep well in their cozy tents after a hard day's work and a hot meal.

7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier (AMS archive photo)

Getting cozy! (AMS archive photo)

Ayla Loper's 6-Day mountaineering course on the Buckskin Glacier are happy and tired. Yesterday they were out ALL DAY doing some snow climbing, crevasse rescue and navigation. Then they moved camp! That is a BIG DAY. They are currently at the airstrip and are due out tomorrow.

Students practicing anchors for crevasse rescue (AMS archive)

Another team into the Range

2026-05-09T14:20:00.000-08:00

We are stoked to be supporting this Patagonia film project in the Alaska Range. AMS Film Crew Safety, Tad McCrea and team flew into the Kahiltna Glacier for the start of an 18-day film project on Mount Hunter.

Film Crew Safety Tad McCrea with Jen, Gilbert, Babsi, and Austin.

Mount Hunter

Updates from the Alaska Range

2026-05-08T14:50:00.000-08:00

On the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, we have 3 teams, all reporting deep snow and good spirits:

12-Day Mountaineering Course led by David Kerner and Claire Pennell is doing well and getting ready to move camp today. They have been busy with classes and working at nearby crevasses for hands-on crevasse-rescue mechanical-advantage systems classes.

Yesterday, they had classes on snowpack observations, transceivers, and avalanche rescue. They are watching the weather closely, and for today, their plans include moving camp up the Kahiltna Glacier. They are "having a blast and are making the most of each day".

Practicing crevasse rescue. (photos from AMS archives)

The Denali Team of 2026 is a custom expedition led by Brady McGuire and Tate Hughes, who spent yesterday at nearby crevasses working on crevasse rescue skills and snow anchor systems, and hauling systems. Today, they packed up and are moving up the Kahiltna glacier; they will be breaking trail, so they have their work cut out for them as one of the first teams on the route this season.

The route from base camp at 7,200 ft descends 500 feet before ascending to the next camp at 7,800 ft. This is a difficult day as it is done in a single carry. That is Mount Crosson (12,472 ft) in the distance.

Custom Climbing Team, led by Ryan Griffiths, has been busy the past few days; they have been to the crevasses, roped up, explored the glacier, and observed routes. They reviewed crevasse rescue, glacier travel, and hauling systems for their two-person team. Ryan reported that the weather was in and out all day for the past couple of days. They are feeling relaxed and enjoying acclimating to the terrain, weather, and altitude. They plan to try for some climbing near the Kahiltna Basecamp today.

This photo from the AMS archives was taken of a climber on Mount Francis. This could be an objective for Ryan's team.

On The Buckskin Glacier (east of the Ruth Glacier)

This area has loads of opportunities and is not often visited.

The 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Ayla Loper and 2026 intern Peter is all well.

While waiting for their glacier flight, they had classes in caching, sleds, and rope work on the tarmac.

On the glacier over the past couple of days, they covered lots of classes, including: probing their campsite for crevasses, proper tent setup in the big/ remote mountains, sun protection, and emergency response. They are fortifying their walls and taking classes on the mega mid kitchen, food ID, and stove use, rope work, and snow camping, and discussing ice protection, anchors, and setup for glacier travel. They plan to move camp today!

They had light to moderate wet snow throughout the day, so they enjoyed classes at camp.

Webcam: Kahiltna Glacier

2026-05-05T20:58:00.005-08:00

Wondering what the weather is at Basecamp? This USGS webcam is set up on Mt. Foraker and looks across toward the SE Fork, main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier. "Basecamp" is located just outside the wilderness boundary on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.

This webcam is temperamental because it is very exposed to the elements and high winds, so enjoy it while it is up and running.

We now have three teams at Basecamp tonight, looks like they could have a clear and cool evening.

Cheers!

Custom Climbing Team flies in!

2026-05-05T17:33:00.000-08:00

Guide Ryan and Stuart

Custom climbing team led by Ryan Griffiths, with Stuart, flew into Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp this afternoon. They are ready to roll when climbing conditions allow. There will be many climbing options for them in there - we look forward to sending you updates!

Our First 2026 Denali Team Begins!

2026-05-05T17:30:00.002-08:00

The first AMS Denali Team of 2026 is a custom expedition led by Brady McGuire and Tate Hughes with a strong and motivated crew from Kodiak, AK. They had one day of the Talkeetna Hang and are in good company on the glacier. The first NPS Mountain Ranger patrol is a few days ahead of them, and they will look forward to seeing them higher on the mountain. We are stoked to begin the season with this incredible team.

6-Day Mountaineering Course - Loper, begins!

2026-05-05T17:10:00.002-08:00

The 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Ayla Loper and 2026 intern Peter, with Ethan and John, had a very productive day of waiting out the weather yesterday. Today, they were up and ready to go when the air taxi called them with good weather. They flew in with Talkeetna Air Taxi into the Alaska Range, to the Buckskin Glacier this afternoon. This team is very excited to be in the range and to learn a ton.

Instructor Ayla, Assistant Peter, John and Ethan

Excited to fly after a little hang time at the Talkeetna airport

12 Day Mountaineering Course- Kerner, update

2026-05-04T09:37:00.006-08:00

The 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by David Kerner and Claire Pennell is settling in and doing well.

Raining in Talkeetna means lots of snow in the Range! The course is staying near Kahiltna basecamp and working on camp skills like building a camp kitchen, cooking, and Glacier Travel and crevasse rescue on their first couple of days.

Kahiltna Glacier on a scattered clouds day

The Alaska Range is huge and remote! Flying in and being dropped off among the big mountains in deep, fresh snow can feel overwhelming when the plane flies away. Getting to work on building camp infrastructure keeps the group working together and focused on an objective, resulting in comfortable and useful shelters, which will be home away from home and are very cozy!
Hot drinks and meals quickly follow, along with classes, and plenty of adventure lie ahead.

Mountaineering students lay out a camp kitchen

Camp kitchen under construction

Counters for cooking and benches for sitting are carved out

The team now has a covered area for cooking, eating, and gathering for coursework!

Around Headquarters

2026-05-04T09:36:00.000-08:00

Here at AMS HQ, the snow continues to melt and the Guides and Instructors are packing and planning for upcoming courses, custom climbs, and our first Denali expedition!

Our new Intern Peter Sansbury arrived yesterday!

AMS staff, Claire, David, Tate and Brady packing food.

12 Day Mountaineering Course Launches

2026-05-03T15:11:00.002-08:00

Three stoked students with their instructors, David Kerner and Claire Pennell, flew into the Alaska Range to start 12 days of living and learning on snow and ice.

Their plan is to be dropped off at Kahiltna Glacier and traverse to the Pika Glacier. This is an exciting point-to-point route.

Gear Check... got everything?

Everybody practices Fixed Line Ascension prior to getting on the glacier.

Instructor David Kerner, Renner, Instructor Claire Pennell, Doug and Olivia

Wheels Up and Flying. Woot!

Backpacking in July

2026-04-24T09:57:00.000-08:00

We are offering three backpacking courses this summer.

Hike high in the tundra of the Talkeetna Mountains. Learn how to route find, adjust to the weather and terrain, choose and set up a cozy camp, cook delicious meals, and experience world-class scenery.

To apply, send in an AMS course application.

Backpacking Courses

Talkeetna Mountains
4-Day Backpacking
Maximum: 6 hikers, 2 instructors
$3,100, July 5 - 8

8-Day Backpacking
Maximum: 6 hikers, 2 instructors
$4,600, July 12 - 19

14-Day Backpacking
Maximum: 6 hikers, 2 instructors
$5,600, July 10 - 23

You should be fit and able to carry a backpack weighing 35-40 pounds. Camping experience is not required, but a willingness to learn is!

7 Day Mountaineering Course Returns

2026-04-23T14:04:00.000-08:00

Our Custom 7 Day mountaineering course led by Tyler Thompson returned early due to the tremendous snowfall in the Alaska Range. There was a small window to fly out and the duo decided to take it. A good call since it has been raining and snowing here in Talkeetna, elevation 370 feet, every day, so we know they are getting lots of snow at 5,000 feet and higher.

Their lessons continue here at AMS headquarters.

Brian and Guide, Tyler, flew into the Ruth Glacier on a sunny day

They got a lot of practice packing down the runway for their pickup.

AMS Headquarters yesterday, 4/22

Training continues on slighter drier and firmer land.