2011 Mountaineering Season

Expedition Availability

2012-01-25T10:28:00.000-09:00

The snow fall has been great in the Alaska Range this winter. We expect nice conditions in the mountains this season. Consider a custom climb with AMS.

EXPEDITIONS
Denali West Buttress April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 4 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 3 spaces available
May 13 - June 2:  FULL
May 21 - June 10:  FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17:  FULL
June 4 - June 24:  FULL
June 11 - July 1:  FULL
June 18 - July 8:  FULL
June 25 - July 15: 3 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 3 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 1 space available

Custom Denali Expeditions

Start dates: April 16 - July 2
A very limited number of dates are available for Private West Buttress Denali Expeditions, contact AMS for details.

Aconcagua

2012-01-23T14:29:00.000-09:00

Guide Tom Torkelson checked in with us today. Every one is happy and well, they arrived at highcamp today. They plan to summit tomorrow if the weather cooperates. If not they will wait until it does.

Bobbi

Aconcagua

2012-01-17T14:55:00.000-09:00

Guide Tom Torkelson check in today. The climb is going well, the weather has been perfect. They arrived in base camp on Saturday, rested and carried loads to Canada. Tonight will be their last night at base camp and tomorrow they will move to Canada. They are enjoying the comfort of their tent and the excellent food! We look forward to hearing more about the fun they are having.

Bobbi

Expedition Availability

2012-01-16T12:39:00.000-09:00

Greetings from cold snowy Talkeetna!

Last week was a busy week here in the office. Our Aconcagua Expedition launched, we are sure they are having fun! Also, a flurry of activity on the application front. Holidays are over, so it appears to be time to get ready to climb.

EXPEDITIONS

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 1 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17: FULL
June 4 - June 24: 1 space available
June 11 - July 1: FULL
June 18 - July 8: FULL
June 25 - July 15: 5 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 3 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 1 space available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

April 28 - May 14: 3 spaces available

Expedition Availability

2012-01-06T16:07:00.000-09:00

I hope everybody had a wonderful New Year's celebration. Talkeetna really does it up with fireworks (unregulated) going on everywhere. Despite temperatures staying well below zero everybody gets out and about to go to bonfires and watch fireworks. Here's the latest on availability for 2012 expeditions.

EXPEDITIONS

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17: FULL
June 4 - June 24: 1 space available
June 11 - July 1: 1 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 1 space available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 3 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 1 space available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

Happy New Year from AMS

2011-12-30T15:16:00.000-09:00

We'll never complain about the snow but we could use a little bit of a break! It is -8F today and still managing to snow. Here's Colby's trying to keep up the pace. We'll be enjoying the local New Year's festivities this weekend and will be closed on Monday. We'll reopen on Tuesday January 3, 2012.

Peace.

Beardy doesn't mind the cold and snow as long as he has a heat lamp and fresh lettuce.

Denali Video from 1997!

2011-12-28T13:47:00.001-09:00

We hope everybody had a wonderful Christmas and didn't overindulge too much on sugar plums. We have lots of snow and some cold temperatures here in Talkeetna.

Here is a video from a 1997 Cancer Survivors climb guided by AMS owners, Colby Coombs and Caitlin Palmer. The climb raised money to support a children's camp for kids with cancer. Half of the team were themselves cancer survivors and were climbing with family members and friends. Everybody made it to the summit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtXX4hqFpk

We will be closed on Monday January 2nd for New Year's Day recovery efforts. We will reopen on Tuesday January 3 at 9:00 AM.

Cheers and Happy New Year!

AMS wishes you a Merry Christmas

2011-12-23T10:49:00.002-09:00

We will be enjoying the long weekend and excellent skiing and therefore will be closed on Monday December 26th and will reopen on Tuesday morning at 9:00 AM. We look forward to talking with you.

Have a wonderful holiday,

From the AMS Winter Office Staff


Full moon over peaks on the Eldridge Glacier. Taken on a September 12-Day Mountaineering Course.

Expedition Availability

2011-12-22T15:13:00.000-09:00

EXPEDITIONS

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17: FULL
June 4 - June 24: 1 space available
June 11 - July 1: 2 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 1 space available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 3 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 1 space available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

Happy Solstice

2011-12-20T16:15:00.002-09:00

We wish you all the best this holiday season!

It's a serious white Christmas up here in Talkeetna and we are loving every minute of it. We hope your holidays are full of fun and we'll be thinking of you.

Colby trying to hang on to Rosie, Caitlin, Laura with a Christmas cactus and Lisle on top.

Here is an impromtu photo of the AMS winter staff. Office staffer, Bobbi missed out as she had headed back east for the holidays.

All the Best,
Laura, Caitlin, Colby and Bobbi

Denali Availability...dwindling

2011-12-16T10:14:00.000-09:00

The end of the year must get people thinking about next year...Denali Expeditions are filling steadily.

EXPEDITIONS

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17: FULL
June 4 - June 24: 2 spaces available
June 11 - July 1: 2 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 1 space available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 4 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 2 spaces available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

Guides in the Off-Season...

2011-12-14T09:23:00.000-09:00

Ever wonder what our guides do when they leave Talkeetna after working the climbing season? Here is one of the answers-- drive to the South Pole!

One of our long time lead guides, Tim Hewette (with unidentified female friend) works for Antarctic Logistics Expeditions. Here he prepares to drive 1000 KM to the South Pole. Notice the AMS vest-- our guides are proud of where they work!

Alaskan Mountaineering Gift Suggestions

2011-12-13T10:21:00.000-09:00

If you need a gift for the active people in your life, here are a few recommendations!

Gift Certificates for AMS Courses and Expeditions!

Give the gift of learning with a gift certificate for an AMS Mountaineering Course, Glacier Trek, Photography Workshop, Custom Climb or any of our offerings.

Gift Certificates are available in any amount.

Just call the office Monday through Friday 10-5:00 PM Alaska Time and we'll help you out. You can also email us!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org

Books Make Great Gifts

Colby Coombs is the author of Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide. If you've climbed Denali and want to explain it to your friends and family...this would be a good present for them to understand your climb.
We have signed copies available for sale through our office for $17.95 ($3.00 shipping)

Colby and fellow climber, Mike Wood wrote, Alaska: A Climbing Guide. Tempt yourself or your climbing partner with this book about climbs all over Alaska.
$24.95 plus shipping

You can purchase both books online through The Mountaineers.

Tom Bol, instructor for our newest course, Denali Photography Workshop, just released a new book: Adventure Sports Photography. If you know a photographer this guidebook can help them get the shot. Follow the link to purchase this book through Tom's website.

We've got HATS!

Call today and we'll mail an AMS hat in time for Christmas.
($12.00+$5.00 for shipping)

Lots of colors available.
The Trucker's hat is available in red only and has mesh in front.

AMS Mugs:
cheap and warm!

12 oz. mug - $5.00
20 oz. mug - $6.50
(plus shipping)

AMS Used Gear Sale
Saturday, December 17 12:00-6:00 PM
If you're in the Talkeetna area, then you don't want to miss our gear sale. A large assortment of winter camping and climbing gear will be available.

AMS Photo Workshop Guide Publishes Book!

2011-12-07T16:54:00.000-09:00

We pride ourselves on the highly skilled instructors at AMS and are always happy to share their achievements when they aren't guiding and teaching for us.
Tom Bol, instructor for our Denali Photography Workshop just released his first book: Adventure Sports Photography Creating~ Dramatic Images in Wild Places. It is chock full of awesome images including one of Colby Coombs (pg. 180) and one taken during our Photo Workshop (pg. 129) as well as clear instruction on how to get these great shots. This could make a great Christmas gift for the active photographer in your family.

Or you could give somebody the gift of learning:

Tom and Colby are teaching the Denali Photography Workshop August 20 to August 26, 2012. The class is one day longer so there is more time to photograph and learn from the best!

Expedition and Course Availability

2011-12-02T14:54:00.000-09:00

Along with a big dump of snow the last few days we got a big round of applications for Expeditions and Courses. Here's the latest...

EXPEDITIONS
Aconcagua, Argentina Normal Route
January 9 - 27, 2012: 2 spaces available

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 6 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: FULL
May 28 - June 17: FULL
June 4 - June 24: 2 spaces available
June 11 - July 1: 3 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 1 space available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 5 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 3 spaces available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

April 28 - May 14: 3 spaces available

Custom Denali Expeditions
Start dates: April 16 - July 2
A very limited number of dates are available for Private West Buttress Denali Expeditions, contact AMS for details.

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES
(We take nine students on 6 and 12 Day Mountaineering Courses and only six on the Advanced Mountaineering Course)

Advanced Mountaineering, 12 days

May 2 - 13, 5 spaces available

Mountaineering 6 Day

March 17-22
April 9 - 14
May 7 - 12
June 21 - 26
July 9 - 14
August 5 - 10
September 2 - 7

Mountaineering 12 Day

March 19- 30
April 23 - May 4
May 17 - 28
June 14 - 25
July 18 - 29
August 15 - 26
September 1 - 12

Denali Prep / Kahiltna Dome Expedition
June 1 - 10

WORKSHOPS

Denali Photo Workshop, 7 days

August 20 - 26: Price to be determined

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue -Workshop location is at the Matanuska Glacier.

April 7-8
July 21-22
August 18-19

WILDERNESS COURSES

Wilderness Backpacking Trek

July 6-9
August 5-8

Wilderness Backpacking Hike

July 21-27
August 10-16

CUSTOM GLACIER TREKS
Glacier Treks
Custom Treks in Denali National Park, Alaska Range 1-3 days, March-Sept • Call AMS for prices and details.

WILDERNESS MEDICINE COURSES

Wilderness First Responder

March 10-18 9 days:

WFR Recertification

March 24-26
March 30-April

Please view the full schedule on our website for more details and contact us if you have any questions.
Wishing you the best this autumn and we look forward to seeing you in the spring!

Denali West Buttress Update!

2011-11-29T13:34:00.002-09:00

We are having a busy couple of days, phone calls and applications to process. Here is a list of availability for our Denali West Buttress Climbs! Hope to see you in Talkeetna!

Denali West Buttress : 21 Days, $6400, 6 climbers:2-3 guides

April 27 - May 17    6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19    5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28   6 spaces available
May 11 - May 31 6 spaces available
May 13 - June 2   3 spaces available
May 21 - June 10    (FULL)
May 26 - June 15 1 space available
May 28 - June 17 1 space available
June 4 - June 24       3 spaces available
June 11 - July 1 3 spaces available
June 18 - July 8        1 space available
June 25 - July 15 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17 5 spaces available

Happy Thanksgiving

2011-11-23T12:48:00.000-09:00

It's another beautiful but cold day in Talkeetna--Minus eight degrees, brrrr!

We'll be warming our hearts and bellies celebrating the Thanksgiving holiday with family and friends. The AMS office will be closed tomorrow and Friday. We will reopen on Monday morning happily eating leftovers and ready to help answer your questions and process enrollments for 2012.

Alpine glow, full moon, snow....Alaska has it all!

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving from the AMS staff,
Colby, Caitlin, Laura and Bobbi

A visit with Barbra Washburn

2011-11-22T02:56:00.002-09:00

Caitlin and Colby, owners of AMS, recently visited Barbra Washburn during a visit back east for Thanksgiving. She recently turned 96 and showed no sign of slowing down. We chatted about her amazing life, her 60 years married to Bradford Washburn, and her first female ascents of Denali and Mt Hayes. In her typical New England manner she downplayed everything preferring to talk about Talkeetna and all her friends there.

Time to Learn~Time to Play!

2011-11-18T14:11:00.000-09:00

"Awesome instruction by true professionals! AMS sets the standard in Alaska Mountaineering!"

~ Otis R, Six-Day Mountaineering Course

Students learning to set up camp on an Advanced Mountaineering Course

It is a cold windy day in Talkeetna. The sky is blue and the mountains are seriously beautiful! Now is the perfect time to turn your climbing dreams into reality! A great way to start is to join us for a Six or Twelve Day Mountaineering Course. Or, perhaps you want to hone the skills you already have by taking an Advanced Mountaineering Course.

Six Day Mountaineering Course

The AMS six-day mountaineering course introduces people with little or no climbing experience to mountaineering in a challenging and remote glaciated environment. Moving and building camps, roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, avalanche transceiver searches, and mountain climbing techniques are all on the agenda. During this course participants will learn how to live comfortably in mountainous snow covered glaciated terrain and have an understanding of what it takes to pursue longer climbs in the Alaska Range. Six days is a short amount of time to cover a large number of topics, move camp, and climb a peak, so prepare to be a sponge for information.

$2100, max: 9 students: 3 instructors

March 17 - March 22

April 9 - April 14

May 7 - May 12

June 21 - June 26

July 9 - July 14

August 5 - August 10

September 2 - September 7

Twelve Day Mountaineering Course

The twelve-day course teaches all of the same skills as the six-day course but gives you more time and opportunity to practice the skills you've learned-- more time to ascend peaks, move camp to new areas and become even more comfortable with with life in the mountains.

$2900, 9 Students: 3 instructors

March 19 - May 30
April 23- May 4
May 17- May28

June 14 - June 25

July 18 - July 29

August 15 - August 26

September 1- September 12

Advanced Mountaineering Course

It is not necessary to have snow and ice mountaineering experience to take this course. It is designed for the student who already has a solid background of roped climbing experience, is comfortable in exposed locations, and familiar with belaying, building anchors, and rappelling. Winter camping and downhill skiing experience are encouraged but not necessary. The smaller class size will enable you to learn more and climb more!

$3100, 6 students: 2 instructors

May 2-May 13

Contact AMS for more information!

Expedition and Course Availability

2011-11-18T13:25:00.000-09:00

EXPEDITIONS
Aconcagua, Argentina Normal Route
January 9 - 27, 2012: 2 spaces available

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 6 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 3 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: 2 spaces available
May 28 - June 17: 3 spaces available
June 4 - June 24: 3 spaces available
June 11 - July 1: 3 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 2 spaces available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 5 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 3 spaces available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

Advanced Mountaineering, 12 days

May 2 - 13, 5 spaces available

Mountaineering 6 Day

March 17-22
April 9 - 14
May 7 - 12
June 21 - 26
July 9 - 14
August 5 - 10
September 2 - 7

Mountaineering 12 Day

March 19- 30
April 23 - May 4
May 17 - 28
June 14 - 25
July 18 - 29
August 15 - 26
September 1 - 12

Denali Prep / Kahiltna Dome Expedition
June 1 - 10

WORKSHOPS

Denali Photo Workshop, 7 days

August 20 - 26: Price to be determined

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue -Workshop location is at the Matanuska Glacier.

April 7-8
July 21-22
August 18-19

WILDERNESS COURSES

Wilderness Backpacking Trek

July 6-9
August 5-8

Wilderness Backpacking Hike

July 21-27
August 10-16

CUSTOM GLACIER TREKS
Glacier Treks
Custom Treks in Denali National Park, Alaska Range 1-3 days, March-Sept • Call AMS for prices and details.

WILDERNESS MEDICINE COURSES

Wilderness First Responder

March 10-18 9 days:

WFR Recertification

March 24-26
March 30-April
Please view the full schedule on our website for more details and contact us if you have any questions.
Wishing you the best this autumn and we look forward to seeing you in the spring!

Climbers Do Clean Up Well!

2011-11-09T15:09:00.000-09:00

You might not recognize AMS owners, Caitlin Palmer and Colby Coombs in their city clothes. They are in Washington DC and got a chance to speak with US Alaskan Senator, Lisa Murkowski on issues related to guiding on Denali.

Caitlin Palmer, Senator Murkowski and Colby Coombs

Expedition, Course and Workshop Availability Update

2011-11-04T15:28:00.001-08:00

We've added a new Denali West Buttress expedition starting May 8 to May 28th.

Full West Rib Expedition: We've changed our Upper West Rib to a Full West Rib. This expedition will depart the main Kahiltna at 7,800 feet and turn up the seldom visited NE fork of the Kahiltna. This will be a team of four with two guides attempting a challenging technical route up Denali's West Rib. May18-June 7, 3 spaces available.

EXPEDITIONS
Aconcagua, Argentina Normal Route
January 9 - 27, 2012: 2 spaces available

Denali West Buttress

April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available
April 29 - May 19: 6 spaces available
May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available
May 11 - 31: 6 spaces available
May 13 - June 2: 4 spaces available
May 21 - June 10: FULL
May 26 - June 15: 3 spaces available
May 28 - June 17: 3 spaces available
June 4 - June 24: 3 spaces available
June 11 - July 1: 3 spaces available
June 18 - July 8: 2 spaces available
June 25 - July 15: 6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17: 5 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

May 18 - June 7: 3 spaces available

Mt. Foraker — Sultana Ridge

Advanced Mountaineering, 12 days

May 2 - 13

Mountaineering 6 Day

March 17-22
April 9 - 14
May 7 - 12
June 21 - 26
July 9 - 14
August 5 - 10
September 2 - 7

Mountaineering 12 Day

March 19- 30
April 23 - May 4
May 17 - 28
June 14 - 25
July 18 - 29
August 15 - 26
September 1 - 12

Denali Prep / Kahiltna Dome Expedition
June 1 - 10

WORKSHOPS

Denali Photo Workshop, 7 days

August 20 - 26: Price to be determined

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue -Workshop location is at the Matanuska Glacier.

April 7-8
July 21-22
August 18-19

WILDERNESS COURSES

Wilderness Backpacking Trek

July 6-9
August 5-8

Wilderness Backpacking Hike

July 21-27
August 10-16

CUSTOM GLACIER TREKS
Glacier Treks
Custom Treks in Denali National Park, Alaska Range 1-3 days, March-Sept • Call AMS for prices and details.

WILDERNESS MEDICINE COURSES

Wilderness First Responder

March 10-18 9 days:

WFR Recertification

March 24-26
March 30-April
Please view the full schedule on our website for more details and contact us if you have any questions.
Wishing you the best this autumn and we look forward to seeing you in the spring!

April and May Expeditions on Denali and Foraker

2011-11-03T15:27:00.000-08:00

Interested in a Alaskan wilderness expedition?

Consider an early season climb on Denali's West Buttress, West Rib Routes or on Mount Foraker. Expeditions in late April and early May offer increased challenge because of the colder temperatures yet in exchange, you have an increase opportunity for solitude. AMS has been offering West Buttress climbs in April since 2008 and we've always had the summit to ourselves. We are offering the following early season climbs on the West Buttress: April 27, April 29 and May 8.

The Full West Rib climb begins at Kahiltna basecamp and moves into the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7,800 feet. Climbing the full rib is not attempted by many people, only the strong need apply. It is a steep, technical, committing expediton. We have three spaces available starting May 18th.

Mount Foraker, the third highest mountain in North America, sees fewer than 20 attempts each season. You'll start at the Kahiltna Base camp and cross the main Kahiltna to Mount Crosson. This is not as technical a climb as the West Rib yet remains a tremendous challenge. We have three spaces available for our April 28 Foraker Expedition.

Contact us for more information!


Mount Foraker as seen from Talkeetna

Aconcagua

2011-10-28T14:56:00.000-08:00

White Rocks

There is still time to join the Aconcagua expedition! Only 2 spots available.

Aconcagua, Argentina »

January 9 - 27, 2012

Normal Route, 19 days, $5200, 6 climbers: 2 guides

Denali Testimonial

2011-10-25T15:25:00.001-08:00

"Outstanding Experience - Once in a lifetime! The AMS team made it possible. The guides were first class and the logistics flawless. Well done and sincere thanks!"

T. Berman

The phones are ringing and emails are arriving, Denali is on lots of climber's minds. Today is a good day to give you an update on expeditions.

2012 EXPEDITIONS

Denali, West Buttress, 21 Days, $6,400

6 climbers: 2-3 guides

April 27 - May 17 - 6 spaces available!

April 29 - May 19 - 6 spaces available!

May 11 - 31 - 6 spaces available!

May 13 - June 2 - 6 spaces available!

May 21 - June 10 - Full!

May 26 - June 15 - only 4 spaces available!

May 28 - June 17 - only 3 spaces available!

June 4 - June 24 - only 4 spaces available!

June 11 - July 1 - only 3 spaces available!

June 18 - July 8 - only 2 spaces available!

June 25- July 15 - 6 spaces available!

June 27 - July 17 - 5 spaces available!

Come join us for a great climb.

Bobbi