2013 Mountaineering Season

Another Summit

2013-06-17T21:33:00.001-08:00

AMS guide Greg Collins called in a little while ago from the Summit. His team climbed the Upper West Rib of Denali.

We also heard that AMS guides Todd Tumolo and Dusty Eroh climbed the Cassin Ridge of Denali. They summitted last night and are on their way down.

AMS guide Josh Hoeschen and his team will be leaving base camp in 5-6 hours to start their trek to camp 1 at the bottom of Ski Hill during the coldest part of the night.

Scenes from AMS

2013-06-17T10:46:00.001-08:00

Here are some photos in and out of the mountains. We have a Denali Expedition departing today; they are busy gear checking and they fly at 5:00 PM.

Photo of Paul on the summit of Denali, June 7; his seventh and final summit. This is was his third attempt on Denali.

Trixie lounging in the side yard at AMS HQ...she prefers the couch!

Guide Dustin Horton and climber Ryan going over gear.

Guide Josh Hoeschen checking his list.

Intern Jake enjoying the sunshine and tent set up.

Intern Becky checking guy lines on tents.

Always doing the exciting and glamorous work: AMS Owner Colby Coombs unpacks the long awaited duffel bags.

A picture of the recently returned students from their 12-day Mountaineering Course.

A mass of AMS teams on the summit from June 7, 2013

AMS instructor Brian Skean leading a rope team on the Kahiltna Glacier. The 12 Day Mountaineering Course spent their time on the Kahiltna Glacier.

More Denali Updates!

2013-06-16T17:24:00.000-08:00

There's a bunch of AMS folks at the 14K camp.

Hamill's 6/10 team arrived at the 14,000 foot base camp today and they are joining Corn's Custom Denali team as well as Bunch's 6/3 team. Bunch and Corn should be moving up to high camp tomorrow. Hamill's team will do a back carry to retreive their gear at the 13,500 cache. Then they might take a rest day or do a front carry to the 16,200 ridge.

Collin's West Rib team called in and they are "happily installed at their high camp" at 16,200 feet on the West Rib. They have a bomb-proof camp fortified with a snow cave. Tomorrow they will make their summit attempt.

Here are some photographs (taken in prior years) of the scene at 14K and the West Rib.

Ascending the headwall; see 14 K camp waaay below.

Fish Eye view of 14 K camp; headwall in the background.

NPS Rangers write the weather forecast each day.

The kitchen cook tent or 'posh', as it is called. It is the gathering place for all meals.

Climbers on the West Rib Route.

West Rib Route

Another view of 14K camp. Those are climbers entering camp, Mount Hunter in the background.

Janes 6/14 West Buttress Calls In

2013-06-16T11:57:00.002-08:00

Mike Janes' 6/14 team did a carry from their camp at bottom of Ski Hill (7,800 feet) to 10,500 feet. Then they descended back to camp where they are probably having dinner and going to sleep.

Teams are on a night schedule as it is cooler and makes for better conditions on the glacier. Keep in mind we have about 21 hours of daylight now and the weather has been 'severe clear' so it is actually quite hot on the glaciers.

They did a single carry (all of their gear) from base camp (where they landed) to 7,800 feet. Now they take half of their gear and front carry to a point higher on the mountain. This allows them to acclimate...by climbing higher during the day and returning to camp to sleep...then they move up to a higher camp the next day. They will continue this process all the way to 17,000 feet....so really they are climbing the mountain twice!

Tomorrow they will move up to 11,000 foot camp then do a backcarry to 10,500 to pick up their cache.

Weather continues to be beautiful. You can check current conditions and statistics with the National Park Service.

Here are some photos from the area between 7800 and 9500 feet.

Rope team ascending ski hill

Enlarge this photo and you can see the 7,800 camp below.

Denali in background, kitchen tent in foreground as seen from 7800 camp.

Here's a good example of the loads people are carrying and pulling.

Muldrow Centenniial Climb Update

2013-06-15T15:01:00.002-08:00

AMS Guide Hunter Dahlberg, leading the Muldrow Centennial Expedition checked in with us today. Today they carried to the upper ice fall. They are resting at the lower ice fall. They are making great headway. The weather and traveling conditions have been perfect. The team is having a great time!

A previous team on the icefalls

Runyan 12 Day Mountaineeing Course Returns

2013-06-15T11:25:00.001-08:00

AMS guides Greg Runyan, Brian Skean and students just returned from Kahiltna Glacier. The group was happy to return to beautiful summer weather. They are busy sorting gear, hanging tents and eating watermelon.

Hamill 6/5 West Buttress

2013-06-15T08:55:00.003-08:00

AMS Guide Mike Hamill checked in last night. The team is enjoying great weather. Today they plan to backcarry and tomorrow front carry from 11K camp and then move to 14K. The conditions on the lower glacier are perfect. The entire team is strong and enjoying themselves.

AMS Janes 6/14 Denali West Buttress

2013-06-14T21:11:00.002-08:00

AMS Guides Mike Janes, Alex Stroud and their team are on the Kahiltnta Glacier! They departed this afternoon, all set to go after an excellent afternoon together.

This is another international team representing Albania, Germany, Great Britain, an the United States. They had a busy day completing all their day one tasks. They enjoyed the warm summer weather but were anxious to get on their way.

I am sure they have enjoyed their first nights meal (veggie and steak stir- fry with rice) and are settled in their sleeping bags for the night right now. They will switch to night schedule to travel the lower portion of the climb, to take advantage of the cool temperatures.

Gjergi, Gerti, Iglin, Charles, Jon, Guide Alex Stroud, Boris, Guide Mike Janes

Denali Updates!

2013-06-14T11:27:00.002-08:00

The Muldrow Centennial Team just called, they are all fine and having a great time. They moved camp to the lower ice fall. They are on night schedule now. Tonight they will move the cache up the ice fall, tomorrow night they will move camp.

Greg Collins Upper, West Rib team is at 14K camp. The team doing fine. They are acclimatizing before moving higher.

Wes Bunch's team is at 14K camp also acclimatizing. They are all doing fine, and taking a well deserved rest day.

More teams to 14K

2013-06-12T19:10:00.000-08:00

AMS Guide Noah Ronczkowski (Greg Collins Upper West Rib Expedition) called in from 14K this afternoon. They are all doing well and are installed at 14K camp. They will start scouting the route up to their high camp tomorrow most likely.

Wes Bunch called in tonight as well. He and his team had a very efficient move up to camp today. They have a fun next few days planned out getting their kit moved up onto the 16K ridge, resting, practicing the skills they will need on the fixed lines and the 16 ridge. They will certainly have a rest day in the schedule I'm sure as well.

All of the other teams at 14K are doing well Noah said.

Call From 14K

2013-06-11T17:12:00.000-08:00

AMS guide Dan Corn just called in from 14K. They had a nice move day today. The entire crew is feeling strong. They are planning on back carrying tomorrow.

Wes Bunch and his team carried all the way to 14K today. Dan and his team are safeguarding their cache and will undoubtedly be helping Wes and his team as they roll into 14K (weather depending) camp.

What's Going On...

2013-06-11T16:42:00.000-08:00

It is another beautiful day and the climbers who got off Denali yesterday are departing AMS for various points south.

We have another Denali Expedition departing on June 14.

Muldrow Centennial Climb checked in and they are at McGonagall Pass. This is where their mountain gear and food was freighted, via dog team, this past March. It will take them a couple of days to sort the food and gear and put it on their backs and in their sleds. The mountaineering portion of their adventure is about to begin.

Here are some photos from the route taken about 10 years ago...

We heard that the river crossing was very mellow and that was a big relief.

The view looking back toward Wonder Lake from McGonagall Pass.

And the view of the Muldrow Glacier from McGonagall.

Colby and daughter enjoying some watermelon...

Colby is holding the Summit Certificate for Paul H. who completed his seventh summit with Colby on June 7.

Evening Update

2013-06-10T17:57:00.003-08:00

5/24 Todd Tumolo and Dusty Eroh's Yang expedition is getting picked up from base camp right now and should be back in Talkeetna around 6:30 PM.

Greg Collin's West Rib team is at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress doing acclimatization climb and checking out the conditions.

Dan Corn's Custom Expedition is also at 11,000 feet and all are doing well.

Hamill's 6/10 Expedition Off to climb the Hill!

2013-06-10T17:07:00.000-08:00

In the midst of all of the returning climbers, AMS Guides Mike Hamill and Larry Holmgren and their team flew into base camp this afternoon. They are looking strong and ready!

Guide Mike with Chris, Jen, Jared, Kim, Steve, Mike and Guide Larry (hope Mike changes out of those flip flops.)

Opp's 5/25 Eating Watermelon

2013-06-10T15:03:00.003-08:00

Yummy!

AMS Guide, Adam Fabrikant sporting a new tan.

Muz

Gayland

Guide Mark Postle

In Bound from Base Camp

2013-06-10T14:19:00.000-08:00

Returned: Coombs' 6/1 Custom Expedition with Paul returned.

Returned: Postle 5/27 Expedition returned; they are checking into their rooms now.

Enroute: 5/25 Opp...here soon!

5/24 Yang is getting picked up from base camp at 5:00 PM.

Big Celebrations in town tonight!!!

Here's some pictures of the scene and a couple of summit!

Dirk starts sorting gear.

The list of names in red of all the returning climbers....and watermelon to help them ease back into summer.

One month ago there was snow here...

Lots of teams on the summit on June 7, 2013

Guides Galore: Mike Gardner, Mark Postle, Colby Coombs, Dusty Eroh, Todd Tumolo, Travis McAlpine
100th Anniversary of the first Ascent of Denali and we've got six AMS guides on top!

Denali Skills Workshop Today

2013-06-09T18:02:00.003-08:00

On this beautiful day team members of Mike Hamill's June 10 expedition took a skill workshop with Alex and Becky. It too often that one can wear shorts but photographs don't lie. It is 75 degrees and sunny....and we get about 20 hours of this weather! Tomorrow this group will do their gear check, National Park Service orientation and weather permitting, fly at 5:00 PM.

Intern Becky King oversees the z-pulley system.

Instructor Alex Stroud works with the students.

12 Day Mountaineering Course Checks In

2013-06-09T17:54:00.003-08:00

Guide Greg Runyan called in from the Kahiltna Glacier where they are having great weather and lots of fun. There are many objectives to climb in this area. Thus far they have climbed on Mount Frances. They moved camp up glacier and then spent an afternoon skiing. A big 'Happy Birthday' to Amy who enjoyed snow ice cream made by her fellow students.

Tomorrow they are going to try a peak called Radio Tower and the next day they will do some ice climbing. Lots of learning and lots of fun.

Here's a picture of Mount Frances taken from Kahiltna Base Camp; I'm not sure what route they climb, they can fill you in with detail upon their return.

Denali Updates

2013-06-09T14:55:00.000-08:00

Mainer, Sidle and Paul N. have returned to beautiful downtown Talkeetna today. Yup, that's pretty fast but remember they were on Everest just 3 weeks ago and were acclimated and in super-fit shape.

According to Guide Keith Sidle of Mainer's 6/3 team...the 6/4 Bunch team is "fit and frisky" and was moving up to 11,000 foot camp. Glacier conditions remain good.

We were just sent these photos taken by Tom Walker showing the crew on the Muldrow Centennial Climb starting out. They have about a 25 mile hike across tundra and a couple of river crossings to reach the glacier. Tom is the author of a new book about Harry Karstens, called The Seventy Mile Kid: The Lost Legacy of Harry Karstens and the First Ascent of Mount McKinley.

Here's the 10-member team about to start crossing the McKinely River.

Those are sleds on their backs which they will need once they reach the Muldrow Glacier.

As we hear from other teams we will update the blog. It is a beautiful day (once again) and you can check the current weather and other climbing statistics here.

Mainer, 6/2 Expedition

2013-06-08T16:15:00.000-08:00

AMS Guide Aaron Mainer called to let us know that he and climber Paul N. were returning from the summit. They reached the summit in less than 6 hours, a remarkable time. Congratulations on a great job! This team came to climb Denali within 3 weeks of climbing Mt. Everest, so they had some advantages with acclimatization and a high fitness level, which helps them move very quickly on Denali.

Runyan 12 Day Mountaineering Course

2013-06-08T15:46:00.002-08:00

AMS Instructors Greg Runyan and Brian Skean and students flew to the southeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier late on Wednesday, June 5. The group was delayed due to weather in Talkeetna and conducted classes here at AMS, before the skies cleared enough for their flight. We know that these instructors will teach them many new skills and ensure that they have time to practice them.

Vero, Instructors Greg Runyan,Brian Skean, Karim, Amy, Yi-Pei and Chris

AMS Guide Dan Corn Team Checks in

2013-06-08T13:50:00.001-08:00

AMS Guide Dan Corn phoned in just now. They are at the 11,000 camp and all are feeling strong and doing very well!

They are enjoying the wonderful weather. They are traveling on night schedule, moving while the snow conditions are firmest and the temperatures are coolest and most comfortable.

All are well with AMS teams all Denali's West Buttress!

Muldrow Centennial Expedition

2013-06-08T13:19:00.000-08:00

The months of preparations and planning are now complete. The Centennial Muldrow Team led by AMS guides Hunter Dahlberg, Elliot Gaddy, Dustin English, & Paige Brady boarded a bus to Denali National Park this morning to begin their expedition.

The team is comprised of family members of the original 1913 Expedition. The 1913 Expedition team members were Walter Harper, Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum. Our team is comprised of Dan Hopkins (Hudson Stuck's great nephew), Ken Karstens and Ray Schuenemann (direct descendents of Harry Karstens), Dana Wright (direct descendent of Walter Harper), Sam Tatum (direct descendent of Robert Tatum), Sam Alexander (an Alaska Native who grew up in Ft Yukon, where Hudson organized the expedition). They have done a tremendous amount of organizing to gather this team together to make this happen, they are a strong and energetic team and ready for their adventure ahead.

Our team will be following in the footsteps of their heritage by climbing the Muldrow route up Denali from the North Side. We are thrilled to be part of this adventure.

Ken, Guides Hunter Dalhberg, Dustin English, Sam, Sam, Dana, Dan, Ray, Guides Elliot Gaddy; Paige Brady

Transportation to the Park

Loading the bus that will take them to their trail head near Wonder Lake.

Denali Updates

2013-06-08T11:49:00.002-08:00

AMS Guide Nate Opp 5/25 checked in from high camp.

All AMS 4 AMS teams are fine and back at High camp, safe and sound from the summit!

After a successful summit they plan a mellow return to base camp. We expect to see them in Talkeetna on Monday!

AMS Guides have reported that Guides Wes Bunch and Beth Cleary's 6/3 team is doing fine, they are at 7,800' camp and making their way upwards and enjoying each others company and the fine weather.

4 more AMS summits

2013-06-07T20:07:00.000-08:00

AMS guides, Mark Postle and Travis McAlpine just called in from a completely windless summit.

Mark said there hasn't been a breath of wind all day.

AMS guides Nate Opp and Adam Fabrikant had already summitted and were already walking back to across the Football field on their way back to High Camp.

Colby Coombs and Michael Gardner, along with Paul Hameister, was arriving on the top as I was talking with Mark.

Todd Tumolo and Dustin Eroh were minutes away from the top as well with their crew from Taiwan.

Congrats to all of you!!

All of these teams will head back to camp tonight and will sleep in tomorrow. They will all start the journey back to base camp on Saturday and will not be back to Talkeetna until Sunday or Monday at the absolute earliest.