2011 Turkey/Africa

The End

2011-06-29T15:25:00.001-07:00

Photo gallery will be published to www.genosajko.com in the near future.

Thank you for reading our story.

Home Sweet Home

2011-06-29T15:24:00.001-07:00

Flight time from Boston - 66 minutes. Time taken to deplane, clear customs and get luggage - 16 minutes. At the airport, our driver and car were waiting. Thanks Paul D. Time from airport to home - 33 minutes. Waiting in the driveway with the garage door open for someone to bring us our keys because my sister-in-law locked all the interior doors. Priceless.

Boston to Halifax

2011-06-29T02:00:00.001-07:00

0456. Final moving day.

Europe as always was great. If only they could figure out that water is water and not carbonated or mineral (or gas as they call it) water. And use ice, plenty of ice.

Lisa speaks of Frankfurt and Lufthansa

2011-06-28T23:58:00.000-07:00

Nearly ready to start leg 4 of the 'it seemed like a good idea at the time' interminable homeward journey. The weather in Frankfurt is just awesome... A heatwave has been besetting western Europe and it's supposed to reach 37 today. However, we're now safely ensconced within the air-conditioned luxury of the lufthansa First Class Terminal. Oh my. A personal assistant to greet you at the door and take your passports to check you in, a private no-waiting security check, unlimited premum snacks (cashews, macadamia nuts and cherries,oh my!), made to order drinks, buffet and a la carte dining, and bathtubs!!! I don't think I'm a snob but good heavens I like perks :-). Oh yeah, and the PA will collect us for our 6:15pm flight around 5:45 to takes to the CAR to drive to the plane. Hahahahaha. Love it.

We didn't do much in Frankfurt, though it appears to be a lovely green city. We walked by the river for a bit- very hot, but pretty, had a quick bite to eat, then returned to the hotel for a welcome, but somewhat unexpected, nap. We were both zonked.

When we got going again, we wound up at an Irish pub for supper. Still very very hot out at 8pm, but this spot was open air and quite busy so we enjoyed it. After walking around a bit more, we noticed that our hotel was on the edge of the red light district. It was still light at 10pm when we headed back after dinner so it didn't make much difference, but there certainly were a few tawdry shops around. And possible hookers, lol.

Slept well despite the nap, and had ambitions to be up early to explore a bit more but didn't quite make it. We did get out to the Jewish museum for an hour or so, which would have been a lot more engaging had I spoken German. Really interesting displays, with lots of German-only text, so all I could do was look at the pictures. Would like to have got to the museum of money but it was too far away for this lightning trip. And I was lucky to get Geno into another museum at all - I think I burned him out in Turkey.

Lufthansa First Class Lounge

2011-06-28T23:17:00.000-07:00

As we approach the airport, the taxi driver takes us onto a private ramp/area of the airport. The entrance to the lounge. The car door opens and we are given a warm greeting.

Then we are escorted inside to the ticket desk. We do the formalities, then go through security, ie xray and pat down with the magic wand.

From there were are escorted into the lounge. It has a marvelous bar, relaxation area, sitting area, private offices fully equipped, cigar room with N/C cigars, dining room with both a la carte and buffet, spa, showers, sleeping rooms, and who knows what else as I don't have time to walk around the whole place.

I am asked if I would like a drink. Yes please. Vodka and grapefruit in a tall glass full of ice, extra pulp. No problem. It was terrific! I do have time for a few more...

But first, I gotta pee.

I'm back. Too much info? The wash room is ridiculous. Shoe shine machines. The sink and "business" areas separated by super quiet automatic sliding glass doors. Doors open and close just like on the set of "Get Smart".

"Thank you!" I was just interrupted by another Vodka and grapefruit.

Anyway, walking back from the washrooms I checked out the shower rooms, equipped with bath robes, slippers, etc. Two of the rooms have a large bath tub.

I then cruised through the dining area. There is even a big meat slicer where you an get a slice of meat to your specifications.

The cigar room, cool. I'm going to skip that room.

Bar menu infinite. Paul, check this out.

The only thing not included here is the spa. The massage chairs are included but that seems so impersonal.

So Lisa suggests we should do lunch. I ordered calamari and schnitzel from the menu. Half way thru my schnitzel we are interrupted - "Ms. Murphy, your bath is ready". And she up and leaves me with my schnitzel, which by the way I thought was going to be wiener schnitzel. I finished my lunch alone, had a few shrimp, and was done.

Hmmm, I should have a shower.

So I went to the lady at the desk to inquire. I said, "I'm told you are the lady to see about a shower". She told me to take room number one. There are four rooms, as I approached them, all the doors were opened except number one, so I opened it to see a half naked Lisa. She says she locked it. Right. I didn't see any pool boys around so maybe she did think she locked it. Maybe the lady thought I was looking for Lisa and gave me her room number. Who knows. Well since I'm here I thought we might as well - have a shower!

As I strip down to get in the shower, the room has a bath tub on one end, a shower on he other end, the door opens. Two ladies look in, apologize, and me there with my wiener schnitzel at my side. Lisa laughs and closes the door. Says she did think she locked it, again. Right. Complicated locks? The shower was great.

Lisa stole a duck.

Back in the lounge... Time passes...

"Mr. Sajko << name pronounced perfectly as it always is in Europe >>
and
Ms. Murphy,
your car is ready to take you to the plane."

We head down a flight of stairs to passport control, two guys at a desk who look pretty bored, stamp stamp, out the door to the waiting driver and Porche, and away we go, through double gated security. We are now on the tarmac. We navigate a few lanes, around a few corners, around a bunch of planes and then turn in where our plane is.

From here, up an elevator to the first class ramp onto the plane. Our chauffeur is given the security wand check before he is allow to take us and our luggage into the plane. He stows our luggage and wishes us farewell.

Oblivious to us, everyone is already on the plane and ready to go, including the other 6 first class passengers. Time for drinks before we head our for our seven and a half hour flight to Boston.

Caviar is the appetizer. Lisa doesn't like fish, but this isn't fish, this is pre-fish. Hmm, wonder if I can sell that angle to her...

Frankfurt Tag Zwei

2011-06-28T23:00:00.000-07:00

Lazy day.

Turns out we did have time for a quick visit to the Jewish Museum. It was in a formerly well off Jewish home in the Jewish district near the river. Of all the museums I've visited over the years, this was the most somber. The Jewish people have been discriminated against and persecuted since the beginning of time, so most of the displays are of suffering and despair and their fight for survival.

Note the make of the typewriter...

Seems our hotel that lisa booked is in the red light district. I am not talking traffic lights but trafficking lights. Thee are sex shops between ice cream parlors and MacDonalds. Check the view outside our main lobby.

Only plan, 2pm pickup for drive to the airport, specifically, Lufthansa first class lounge before our flight to Boston. Seems we leave here around 6pm and get their at 8pm. Now that is a fast plane!

Short walk...

2011-06-27T13:05:00.001-07:00

Went for a short walk, mainly to get a beer. Stopped at Riley's Irish Pub. What did we order? A couple of Coronas.

I see so many Mercedes here. I see many BMWs including Z3's and Z4's; not noticing as many Volkswagens. What's up with all the German cars on the road?

10:15pm, not dark yet. They are further north than we are so they get (to my estimation) an extra hour of daylight during the longest days of the year. Of course that means their shortest days would be an hour less than ours.

Still so tired... Snore...

Victoria Hotel

Frankfurt am Main in the PM

2011-06-27T10:42:00.001-07:00

Now low on sleep, Lisa and I went for a walk around Frankfurt am Main. We headed the Der Main River. We walked up one side of the river and back the other way.

I got one on one with my friends. They seemed skittish.

Momma didn't seem to trust me.

It was hot. Over 35C at last check, in the 40s tomorrow. Europe is having a heat way with temperatures 10C above normal. That is where the NS heat is. Now that we have solved the problem, expect a fix in the weather over the next couple of days.

Wart hog statue in Frankfurt. Why?

There are bikes everywhere. Young, old, cheapo bikes, road bikes, people getting around the way they should in a city - without a car. Nice to see.

Found a place that was my lemon sherbet or what ever it is. Oh so yummy.

Found a place for a beer and light lunch.

Back to the hotel for a short (we thought) nap. Awoke at 730 pm. Still hot and bright. I expect sunset near 10pm, it is summer hear. We have wireless internet in the room, faster than any wired or any connection I have experienced back home.

Istanbul to Frankfurt

2011-06-27T03:28:00.001-07:00

Just like getting on the plane, we get off on the runway and bus to the terminal. I've been on more buses on this trip than I have been in the last 30 years.

Got our boarding pass, go to our gate, again the xray security check is at each gate. I thought it dumb on the way to South Africa, but now after thinking it through, it is more efficient. Rather than a single line where all passengers queue, and where passengers with 3 hours to wait get in the way of those with short connections, this system allows you to get in and to the gate quickly where you are then checked. For the second time I am sure, as you a checked as you enter the airport, whether a passenger or a well wisher.

Boarding...

My thoughts of Turkey again. 16th largest economy in the world. They are aiming at top 10 in the next 12 years - 2023 their 100th anniversary as a republic.

They are the second or third most sought after tourist destination, 26 million last year, 31 million estimated this year, aiming for 50 million.

There is so much to see and do here. Whether it be cultural, religious, adventure, sailing, historic... I'm impressed.

"I'll be back."

The flight was smooth, the food great, we were a bit tired. Cab ride from the airport - fun. All the cabs are Mercedes. He had it going 160km/hr or 100mph. Fast!!!

Hotel room is great. Time to shower and get organized. We only have 24 hours in Frankfurt.

Out Of Africa...

2011-06-27T02:57:00.001-07:00

As we fly out of Africa, a trip we will never forget, a trip we were fortunate enough to share with our neighbors and friends Nancy and Paul, I leave you some images taken by Lisa. They are really great...

Johanusburg to Istanbul

2011-06-27T02:55:00.001-07:00

After getting our boarding pass, the four of us parked and we alternated washroom breaks and shopping sprees. Got another shot glass. 30ZAR or under $5CDN. Then it was time to part our ways. It has been great. Hugs all around. Paul and I have a new secret handshake. He's having trouble with the final finger twiddle but with some practice he'll get it.

They are going home via London, we via Istanbul, Frankfurt, Boston. Guess whose travel agent needs a kick on the pants.

The plane ride was very comfortable, an Airbus A330-300. It had lie flats, all very new, nicer than the older A330-200 we went down to South Africa on.

We ate a nice meal, had drinks, endured more than average turbulence, I could see lightening storms below us for an hour or so, watched some TV(Big Bang Theory, always funny) and got some sleep.

British Airways to Johanusburg

2011-06-26T23:55:00.000-07:00

We were nearly last in line to check in. Yet we got middle and window and Paul and Nancy got middle and window behind us. When we were ready to roll, there was no one in the aisle seat to the left of Lisa so she moved over. I pointed out to Paul that It really isn't that bad back here as he squeezed out of the row with the the of them. Chuckle chuckle. lol

After getting to a transfer point in the airport, we had to wait. The Turkish Air desk won't open for another hour. It is a big room with chairs and a snack machine. Ridiculous. We can't move from here without a boarding pass. And even more ridiculous, once we get it we go through security. We just got off a plane, and followed a corridor with no contact with anyone but other passengers on the plane - so why do we need to go through security again. I smell make work project.

Our other option, which I would exercise if the wait was more than an hour was to leave security and go to the checking desk and get a ticket. Of course then we would have to go through security. Doh!

Bye bye Victoria Falls

2011-06-26T03:54:00.001-07:00

So-so breakfast this morning. Eggs Benedict yesterday was perfect, absolutely perfect. Today the eggs were near yokeless. After last minute packing, settling of the bill, we waited for &Beyond to pick us up for the trip to the airport.

On the way to the airport, a BMW raced by us. A hundred meters up the road were three police and a speed trap. One guy had the radar gun, the other a yellow flag which he waved at the speeder (to stop), and the third guy - I don't know. Maybe he writes the tickets.

Anyway, he waved and waved the flag, jumped out into the road, and the speeder pressed on the accelerator and was gone. Our driver laughed. "He escaped." I guess you are supposed to stop for the yellow flag waving police officer. How ridiculous. They had a police pickup truck parked to the side. Should they not have a cop up the road a way, a small distance from the radar gun?

A kilometer or so later there was a police chicane barricade. The white
BMW was no where to be seen. This road block had nothing to do with the speed trap, and obviously the trappers don't have a radio to talk to the blockers.

The airport was a zoo. We shrink wrapped our luggage just in case we were forced to check. We weren't.

Now we wait for a couple of hours for the plane. Paul is out running around trying to get his authenticity papers signed that says his crocodile wallet was made from farmed and not wild crocks.

I sit here, with free wi-fi. Whoo hoo!!!

Packing...

2011-06-25T12:39:00.001-07:00

Dinner was ok. Had the crock tail. Taste like chicken. Packing. Tomorrow is moving day...

Victoria Falls.

2011-06-25T08:42:00.001-07:00

Second largest falls in the world. Niagra Falls in Canada is third. We were guided for the day by a nice fellow name Mtulesi. He was our driver from Botswana yesterday.

We visited the falls. At times we needed a poncho. We were lucky, usually this time of year you get wet near the Zambia End.

The falls were spectacular. And we got a bit wet. The Olympus E3 is splash proof so water on it except the lens as ok with me.

After the falls, we walked the Victoria Falls Bridge, took some pics of the falls, watched some bungee and other foolish jump related activities.

Pictures from the bridge.

After that we went to an open street market. I never in my life found anything as aggressive as this. Every display owner asking me to look, asking me to buy, asking me for an offer. I got an offer for my Columbia Hat for any stone carving. The hat, years old, travelled Jamaica, Costa Rica, Greece, Turkey, Florida, South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and even Zambia since I went past the half way point on the bridge. I'm sure it may have been elsewhere as well, an easy wash hat, I wasn't giving it up.

Many told me they liked my New Balance and they would trade. One guy wanted my socks. I stood firm. No. Paul wasn't as tough and they got his sneakers and hat. He walked back into the hotel shoeless.

After a nice lunch at African Hide, we shopped some more, I helped Paul. I was worried he may lose his drawers.

I bought a hippo, two wart hogs, and a four pack of wart hog shot glasses. I started collecting shot glasses recently from places we travel to. It was a necessity. One poker night at out place, we were doing shooters, with one shot glass. Unacceptable.

Tonight we return to the African Hide for dinner. Great menu, great prices. They will have my table waiting for me. Crock, wart hog, osterich, kudu and other such dishes are on the menu. Yummy.

Victoria Falls FYI If your are interested. As always, click to enlarge.

Last game drive and goodbye Botswana

2011-06-24T12:45:00.001-07:00

This morning's drive was typical for this camp. Not as "gamey" as the other two camps. None-the-less, as I've mentioned before, there is always something to see.

Our first significant encounter was a wildebeest.

Then we met up with a herd of elephants. Paul wanted to get them to mock charge. So we went off road and into the herd. We met up with a large old momma with a very large tusk and either a new growing replacement tusk or a broken tusk. No matter what we did, except for a bit of posturing, she and they wanted nothing to do with us and so they kept retreating. Figuring we were just interrupting there foraging and peaceful existence, we drove away.

Then we headed for water to see some hippos. Can never get enough hippo.

It is interesting and funny now they hang out in the water, all resting their heads on one or two others.

Here we were joined by two other jeeps and we all have drinks and snacks and watched the hippos.

On our way back to camp, we saw other animals and birds.

Back at camp, we ate breakfast, packed and headed for the airport. Basal and Sindy were on the same plane with us going to the same hotel in Victoria Falls, but via a different travel agent. Same pilot and plane that got us to Kwara Lagoon. The ride was a bit rough, but felt smoother and safer than the turbulence you feel on a large jet. At times we dropped or swooped or got blown sideways by the wind. All very relaxing when compared to he bumps of the jeeps.

Fifty minutes later we landed in Kasane where our driver awaited us for the drive across the border into Zimbabwe. The visa cost us $75US each. We (Canadians) must have done something to piss them off.

Once across, a 45 minutes drive on a two lane highway to Victoria Falls. On either side of the highway you could see elephants, wart hogs and other animals. They often cross the road. This city which exists in the middle of the Victoria Falls National Park has a population of sixty thousand.

As we approached the hotel, three wart hogs were at the side of the road near or in a crosswalk. They cross after we passed by. Too funny!

In the past couple of weeks, they have had elephant problems, idiot kids teasing them, stoning them. There have also been two deaths here lately from pissed off elephants. Once again, we don't go out when it is dark. Wild animals visit the hotel grounds.

The Ilala hotel is quite nice, we had dinner, quite nice, I had a duck appetizer and a wart hog main. Quite nice.

Off to the room to catch up on the blogging and get some sleep. Tomorrow we visit the falls.

Kwando River Cruise

2011-06-23T23:55:00.000-07:00

We opted for the cruise this afternoon. Started early that we could do sundowners at the bar.

On the water, hippos started popping there heads out, taunting us to get a good pic. And it was hit and miss. Bali and PD were really good at showing us where they were moving once under. But they can hold their bath for over 6 minutes so we never know shown they will come up. And if they don't want to be seen, they head for the reeds on the shore.

Then Lisa spots one sun bathing on the shore. We gather on top to look. We wake him up so off he goes.

I spotted one later. Looked like a lot of things around here - wood. He too got up and split.

And as we continued, more and more hippos popped up here and there. Saw a baby crock as well.

(our tent)

For sundowners, Lisa got behind the bar (again) and started making margaritas. For me they hand squeezed OJ so I could add Absolut and ice.

Got back to our room, we had the Doane's laundry and we assumed they had ours. Seems they can't remember their room number, they put 7, we got their bloomers. We are number 7.

Tomorrow, last drive then off to the airstrip.

Game Drive #4

2011-06-23T23:11:00.000-07:00

0600... Good morning...

And yes it was. I got 9 hours sleep last night, better than my usual 6-7. The night was cool, the air crisp, and the familiar sounds were present. Hippos honking, I think best describes it. Honk, pause, honk honk honk honk honk. Then maybe a snort. Some splashing. Then it starts again with a hippo across the water. Very peaceful.

The morning was beautiful. We haven't seen rain since we left Halifax (home) nearly a month ago. Sunrise as beautiful as sunset.

Very early in our ride Lisa spots tracks. Porcupine tracks they are. As everyone is looking down at them, immediately to the right is a large elephant. No more than two meters from the jeep. It was going to cross the road as we turned around the bend. Luckily we didn't collide. Luckily it was as startled as we. It stepped back a stride, then another, then turned and split. Man! I wish I was ready for that one with my wide angle G10. Just when you get complacent or you think you've seen it all... Another unique experience. I'll never forget how big and how close we were to this animal. This is what I got by the time I got the G10 out. Too little too late. Had the 560mm Oly in my hands but that would have given me snout hairs.

Next we ran into some giraffes.

And then I almost got the second best perfect impala shot. The very best was left in Sandibe. Nope, he ducked. However, I should be able to make a shot out of this.

From there we went on the lookout for hippos, crocks and wild dogs. Wild dogs are the one animal we have yet to see and we really badly want to see them.

We found hippos. They were I the water and also on their way out of the water. Once out, they don't waste time. These large animals don't lollygag like elephants, they trot just like our dog Spinner. They don't like hanging out on dry ground so they move with a purpose.

After the hippos, we found the old den the dogs used to use. Mom I.n now carrying and so they have obviously moved to another of their dens or built a new one, and we don't known where it is.

As we drove, we viewed many more animals.

We then stopped for drinks and pumping requirements.

In this area, we continue to see termite mounds. But they are bigger, ie more above ground here. They need to stay above the water table. It still amazes me how they contribute to the lay of the land, how they contribute to the island oasises.

The tree below is the Baobab tree. The trunk enormous. And sheen you are under it, wow, the whole tress is enormous.

Back at camp after breakfast (which we eat at noonish, one of our 6 meals a day), we saw a solitary elephant across the channel. Two plus weeks in Turkey, I think I kept my weight constant. We walked so much. Here you eat, sit on a drive, eat, repeat, sleep, repeat... I had to move one hole on my belt. Typically that's 5-10 pounds. More work for when I get home.

While typing this, the rest of the gaggle was still at the lounge. And more elephants appeared. Here are some of the images Lisa got.

Paul, you should come over for Thmo-dynamics and study their solar. lol

Game Drive #3

2011-06-22T23:44:00.000-07:00

A mostly uneventful drive, finally. Saw the usual animals, saw a few new birds, and we stopped often to discuss termites, aardvarks, prey and victim behavior especially in relation to the parents of the victim.

Bali our guide is engaged. The custom here is that the groom pays a dowry to the parents of the bride. The payment is in cattle. The people who broker the deal are the brides uncles. What it is, is payback for raising their daughter.

(Notice the large termite mound.)

Let's say a young girl grows up and gets some high school education. To go to high school one needs buy uniforms and pay transportation. When money is needed, cattle are sold. If then parents don't have the cattle, the uncles kick in - knowing that when the girl gets married, they will be paid back.

So let's say a young man gets engaged. The uncles decide the dowry based on what it cost to raise the girl. Let's say it is 14 cattle. The young man needs to come up with 14 cattle. Not money to buy the cattle; but the actual cattle.

Getting the cattle isn't easy. First there is availability. Cattle are only sold when an owner needs money. So one needs to find available cattle. When someone finds available cattle, more than one person wants it so an auction takes place. Highest bidder wins. So if you ask the young man when will you be getting married. They do not know. There are so many variables.

(Bali and PD)

An early dinner, tomorrow morning another drive, tomorrow afternoon we are on a boat cruise looking for hippos and crocks.

Game Drive #2

2011-06-22T23:11:00.000-07:00

Up before dawn. 0545. It is dark. It is cold. The hippos were all over the place last night. You could the the splashing and groaning. Time to get dressed. Two pairs of socks, leggings, pants. Arm "leggings" for lack of a better word, long sleeve cycling shirt, cycling shirt on top of that, cycling sweater on top of that, cycling vest on top of that. Bandana and a balaclava type fleece neck warmer (ie a toque with a hole in the top). That has to be warm enough. On the jeep awaited a hot water bottle and a blanket to cover my legs with. I was warm. I was ready. I assume the others were as well. ;) If curious about any of the other three, check their blog site.

Along with the usual assortment of animals I've noted almost daily, we also came across a herd of Cape Buffalo. That was neat.

We also came upon a pair of ostriches. And all in between we saw many birds. Pretty birds, birds of prey. In the trees, on the ground, taking off as we approach, and in the sky.

Lisa has taken a special interest in the birds and she can now spot and name many of them. Her interest is spreading to me. I don't necessarily need to be able to identify them, I just want to photograph them.

At times with the shaky jeep, moving people on the jeep including me, the guides stopping too late after frightening the birds or stopping such that a branch obfuscates my view. Not easy. Then you need to get the light just right. Before nine or after five, and never behind or to close to the sides of the birds.

We then went down to the water for a drink and snacks and parked at the edge where we watched a pod of hippos. Very cool.

On our way back to camp, Lisa spotted a vulture. Then two. Then three. Then countless more. In the tress, in the air, circling. We heading for the circling. Under a tree ahead we saw over a dozen of them. We barreled ahead, a mistake, I should have yelled stop. Because they up and flew away. Because we were moving, no good photos of the event. Under the tree I found a solitary hoof which we identified as a buffalo hoof.

Bali then continued on toward the circling. We went off road. The jeeps at this camp suck. Two large spare tires under our feet, not enough storage compartments, and just plain old army looking issue. They were not Land Rovers or Toyotas. They were not made to go through water. There is no water to go through here, just sand filled roads. Anyway, we went off road. We drove over bushes, small trees, stumps, whatever. Most of the small stuff stood back up after we passed over it. Again we were making our own roads. Fun, fun, fun. Some of the small stuff was 4 feet high. Substantial stuff.

The prize, a watering hole, a bush, vultures in the air, on trees, on the ground. And a jackal eating away at a large buffalo carcass. Large rib cage exposed, most of it eaten. We figured our arrival chased away a couple of lions. We saw the tracks. This gave the jackal (who was as nervous as the hyena the other day) a chance to eat. The vultures took their picks as well, and at times he hushed them away.

On the way back to camp we also spotted a Steinbeck antelope. Looks and hops just like a little bunny rabbit. They are the size of a small dog. A rare find.

Finally we came across the Roan antelope. All in all a good morning.

Kwando Lagoon Drive #1

2011-06-21T23:44:00.000-07:00

As we set out on our first drive here, I thought about how hard it may be for out guide Bali and out tracker PD because by now seeing a zebra or elephant is old hat. Guess what, it never gets old. They presented us with new and exciting experiences.

We saw many of the same animals and birds.

Then they spotted some wart hogs on a termite mound and headed there. As we approached, the typical thing with these hogs happened. They saw us, the five, seems there are always five, and ran away. Mom first, three kiddies, and big daddy. Seems we usually only see them from a distance, and only their ass ends.

We approached the mound and stopped. We then noticed a large old hog with his head sticking out of a hole, and three others in another hole. Covered in dirt/dust. Eventually two more bolted and headed "for the hills". Boy can they run. And finally big daddy got out, stared us down and split. Very cool. Same old animal, new experience.

Further down the road we enter a field with elephants. Yup, another elephant story. We can across two adolescents. The older of the two postured with us, mock charged, we didn't budge. The younger one seemed to just eat and play and copy the older sibling.

We drove ahead further and came across the rest of the herd. There were a couple of really small young ones. Now they started backing off slowly. A couple of the bigs ones staring us down and trumpeting. Scary noise. As we watched, they pushed the young ones back a bit and other other ten or so formed a straight line across us fro left to right, most of them facing us. Then they froze in their tracks and went silent. Some of them with their trunks high up in the air. Smelling us we were told.

As I type I hear the grunts of the hippos outside my window. Cool.

Anyway, they then did a mock charge in unison. Very scary. All these beasts charging at once, will they stop. We started the jeep and were ready to bolt, but they stopped. Turned around and left. Same old animals, new experience.

After sundowners, on our way back to camp, with the the lights on and PD shining the big light left, then right, then up into the trees, then back - searching for any predators that may be lying in wait - when we spotted these two green eyes in the woods. Off road we went, as always, on the chase to see what this was. We found it, a small cat, we think it was a Caracal.

Back at camp as we drank at the bar awaiting dinner, off the deck in the water we here a grunt and the splash. One of the guides flashes a light. And there it was, a huge huge hippo coming up to our lounge. We are told he visits this time every night. He was huge. He was then spooked and I couldn't believe how an animal this size could turn on a dime and get back in the water. A few seconds later blow water from his nose out into the night air.

We were then told that a leopard visited the bar three days ago while the bartender was cleaning up. He froze, stood still, ie froze, stared him down until the leopard left. That is what you are supposed to do. Only food runs. We were also told he did a uniform change after that.

We were also told this is the camp to view wild dogs. A couple of weeks ago while all the jeeps were out looking for them. They came to camp and killed an impala right there off the bar deck. Staff called the trackers to let them know what they were looking for was right here at camp. They raced back.

We met a lovely couple from Malaysia, Sindy and Basil. I hope i spelled their names correctly. They are on a pretty big adventure of there own. They are Nikon people. Gotta love Nikon people. lol

We've heard many stories, tomorrow we make more of our own.

Last LK Drive

2011-06-21T23:11:00.000-07:00

This morning we headed out for our last drive, and the airstrip would be our last stop at 1050.

We dropped by the cheetah kill to find a hyena feasting away. We watched him for a while. He was very skittish. He got up a few times and ran away, and then returned, or circled the bush. He was not happy with the location of the kill. Eventually he dragged the carcass across the road. He wanted to get away in case the three cheetahs return. As always, we witness these animals from literally 10 yards away, give or take.

A lioness was spotted by another jeep so off we went. I thought this a big mistake, but everyone was all about the cat so a muttered to myself at best and went along. We never did find the cat.

I then suggested we return to the hyena. The reason why... It has a kill, many animals will be at tracked to it. They will come and challenge the hyena. What a better way to see animals than to have them come to you and in a live arena demonstrate their interactions and conflicts.

We couldn't find the hyena or the carcass. He must have dragged it a long way away.

So off to the airstrip for final good byes. The Plane was our largest yet. It had a turbine driven prop instead of piston driven. An 8 seater plus 2 pilot seats. We had to make 3 touchdowns before we landed at Kwando Lagoon on our 4th landing.

Along the way we met on the plane a lovely couple from Connecticut on their honeymoon. They were having a great time.

At Kwando Lagoon we checked in, got our very large and spacious rooms and had time for a short rest before our evening drive. This place was newly renovated, the rooms have many many lights; but not a plug. Again we have communal charging by giving up our electronics/batteries to staff. At Little Kwara, during our stay there, Paul's battery got switched, accidentally of course, but unacceptable under any circumstances. Come on, we have a ceiling fan. Charging electronics all day would take less energy by a long shot when compared to running the ceiling fan. If I ever come back to Africa, and in hope I do, a plug in my room will be a show stopper.

The camp

Our tent

Little Kwara 4th night drive

2011-06-20T23:55:00.000-07:00

During the afternoon, more animals visited our yard.

Red Billed Hornbill

While at the lodge waiting for the drive, our wart hogs visited. I could have practically touched them they are so close to us.

Both previous afternoon/night drives have been eventful here at LK. So we expected the same again. And it was. Once getting out on the road, Hobbs and Mike spotted cheetah tracks, multiple ones. We followed the tracks. They stopped and got out of the vehicle and looked around. The took out their binoculars and scanned the surroundings. They knew by the lay of the land where the cheetahs would be. After all, this is flat land with tall grass, cheetah territory. We went cross country, though swaps to an mound with a hill. They got out, checked the mound no tracks. More cross country, and some chat on the radio with two other jeeps. Bingo, they triangulated on our guides data and we got them.

When we arrived on the site, we found a large male Red Lechwe, an antelope - dead. In the woods on a mound a few yards away, two leopards. They are typically skittish. We parked and waited along with two other jeeps.

After a while, they came out, slowly, cautiously. And then they resumed feeding. Then a third came out. Hobbs recognized them. They were brothers.

They took turns eating, sometimes alone, sometimes in pairs, sometimes all at once. The rest of the time, lying down resting. They were eating with a purpose. They were eating quickly. Who knows when a lion or jackal or hyena would come upon them. They could defend themselves against most of these animals; but, as we were told, cheetahs are smart. They know they are great hunters and can score another meal. Better that than get injured in a fight.

You will notice they will not puncture the stomach. Too stinky etc, that's for others, not them.

At one point the three jumped to their feet at looked into the distance. A noise startled them. It was another Red Lechwe in the distance in the tall grass. They couldn't see it, but they heard it. Amazing. Once they figured there was no threat, they were back at it.

Back at the ranch, another great meal. Tomorrow 0600 game drive ending at the airstrip formour flight to our third camp - Kwando Lagoon.

Little Kwara channel cruise

2011-06-20T23:11:00.000-07:00

Our tent this morning. Love the warm light.

What was blocking the path from our tent to the main lounge for breakfast. Hobbs came over and escort us slowly past the large elephant.

This morning we went for a cruise, down meandering waterways on a two level momtorized boat. We passed on the dugout canoe type of experience. Nice ride, saw many birds, saw hippos under the water in his little cove. And we saw the rare Sitatunga, an antelope.

We saw a tree full of canaries last night, and today we saw a tree full of Meyers parrots. Very colorful. Very cool.

Hobbs, our guide.

Lisa was spotting birds left and right. I think she is turning into a birder...

The drive back, mostly via streams of water. Feet up, this was deep enough to flood the floor. You may have noticed the air intake on these jeeps is on the driver side above the bonnet. That is the only part of the jeep that should not go underwater.

Little K third drive

2011-06-19T23:33:00.000-07:00

This drive started as all the others in Little Kwara. We drove towards the airstrip, over a total of three bridges and followed a meandering waterway. Then we spotted a Sable Antelope. A rare sighting, they are very shy.

As we continued our drive, we spotted and identified numerous and good looking birds. One of the other couples at camp are birders. The gentleman told me he was shooting with a 300 2.8 lens, 2X converter, on a 7D making for a reach of 960mm. He said that is the minimum for birding. They have their own guide and jeep and their whole time here is birding.

Again we saw many animals. Elephants, giraffes, jackals, zebras etc. On a strip along side a water channel that we were driving were two elephants. As we drove the channel we got closer to him, and when we were perpendicular to him where is was grazing, he paid attention to us. We stopped the engine and stared at him.. He stared at us.

One should not look away in the jungle, only prey looks away (as it runs). Predators look straight at their prey. He kept looking at us. Hobbs turned on the engine reved it and turned it off. The elephant scooted away in a hurry. We won.

After our sundowners, drinks in the jungle, we headed for home. Hobbs and Mike are really good at what they do. They spotted leopard tracks on the road. We followed. Then we spotted her. Mike now got off his front seat onto the bonnet and climbed into the front seat. You don't sit in the spotter seat once it gets dicey.

The leopard then turned and ran into the woods. So did we, off road into the woods in the dark. They kept following the trail. We were now in the woods, no road, nothing. Hobbs was in a hurry. We dodged trees, whent around logs, ran over brush. Deeper and deeper we went. Everytime we thought we were stymied, eg. a big tree ahead, Hobbs found a crack to the left or the right. All the time he was calling in our progress to other jeeps hoping they could get over here and help us track and find the leopard. They were too far away. Then we found her. Engine off.

We sat and watched her. She sat and watched us, and then into the brush behind her she went. Hobbs said hold on and we went like a bat in hell around more trees, over big logs, around a corner or two and then stopped. Engine off, lights scanning. There she appeared behind a termite mound. Looked at us, and then into the woods again. The woods were now too thick for us to continue persuit especially without other jeep support should we get stuck. Adventure over.

Headed for home again. The place is full of paths so quickly we hit one after emerging from the woods and on the road again we were.

Near camp we stopped, engine and lights off. The stars, the sky, it never gets old. And listen to the crickets and frogs. The frogs make sounds like xylophones. Then just before camp, a hippo strolled by inthe dark. Huge. Another great drive.

After dinner and my 4th double screwdriver of the day (afternoon tea, sundowner and dinner), the staff gave us a concert of their indigenous music and dance. Bravo.

Off to bed. We are doing the cruise on the delta in the morning.