2 minute pool tips

FAQ About Salt Chlorine Generators for Swimming Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs

2011-12-17T22:45:00.000-08:00

Let's talk about chemistry. Not pool water chemistry (yet), human chemistry.

Have you ever wondered why your body floats in the ocean?

It's from the extremely high salt density in the water. The salinity in the ocean is around 35,000 ppm. Some oceans, like the Dead Sea are much higher but, on average, that number is correct.

Your body has a certain amount of salinity also. It can be found in your saliva, your sweat and your tears. Your tears salinity is about 8,000 ppm.
This reason alone is a strong arguement for converting your pool to salt. When in a "fresh water" pool, there is little or no salt at all which brings your body out of it's natural comfort zone.

The salt in a "salt pool" refreshes your eyes and quenches your skin and hair. The salinity of a salt pool is around 3,200-3,600 ppm. It's not quite the same as your body but it's close.

Here are some of the most commonly asked questions about Salt Generators/Chlorinators:

Q: Is a salt pool like swimming in the ocean?
A: Not quite; There's a considerable difference between the salinity of the ocean (20,000-35,000 ppm) and a salt chlorinated pool (3,200 ppm). At 3,200 ppm, you genereally can't even taste the salt and, anything under 6,000 ppm is still considered "fresh water".

Q: Is the water still blue?
A: Yes, since the salt water system creates chlorine, the water is still blue and also very clear. The salt system gives your pool the water quality you have dreamed about diving into.

Q: Can a salt system be installed with my existing equipment?
A: Yes, since water is still considered fresh, it is compatible with all standard pool equipment including pumps, filters, heaters, pool sweeps, etc. It is advised that you check with the manufacturer of the salt chlorinator tp verify that you can use it with a stainless steel filter or a considerable amount of copper plumbing.

Q: Does salt "soften" the pool water?
A: Yes, this is one of the many benefits of the salt system.

Q: Will I save money?
A: The fact that you no longer need to use packaged pool chlorine will save you a significant amount of money in the long run. The most common reason people choose to install a salt system is because of the fantastic water quality and the effects it has on the bather's comfort level. Your body is in a more natural state with the salt.

Q: Will there be deposits left on the tile line?
A: Unless you are checking your pH levels on a daily basis, you will, unfortunately, experience some kind of buid-up. To help counter this, try some Scale-Tec. It will help break up calcium along the water line and tile. You should be scrubbing your tile line regularly already. If you keep up on this task, and maintain your pH, you will have no more work than normal.

Q: Will the pool be as sanitary as it would be with regular liquid chlorine?
A: Yes! Having a salt system means that you are manufacturing your own chlorine right in your own backyard. Not only are you creating chlorine in a cost effective way, you are constantly generating enough chlorine to keep your pool sanitary all the time. The salt generator is only converting salt to chlorine for as long as the pump is running. If you reduce the amount of time your pump runs each day, be sure to adjust the chlorine output accordingly.

I hope this article helps answer some of your questions about salt chlorine generators. If you have other questions, you can submit them as a comment and I will create a follow-up.

Tips for Proper Swimming Pool and Spa Water Testing

2011-09-02T23:04:00.000-07:00

Follow these tips to help you achieve the best possible pool and spa water testing results. Quality in/quality out.

Take water sample from at least 12" below surface
Carefully measure sample of water to be tested
Follow all instructions on test kit
Hold bottle vertically to ensure uniform drop size
Add drops slowly
Avoid handling tablets with fingers
Never interchange caps of reagent bottles
Never use finger as a cap
Thoroughly wash test tubes or cells between tests
Test frequently and maintain records
Do not add OTO reagents to pool!
Avoid exposing test reagents to sunlight, freezing or high temperatures for prolonged periods
Store test equipment properly. In a cool, dark area
Replace test chemicals at the start of each season

2011-08-30T11:31:00.000-07:00

Swimming Pool Filter Sizing

2011-08-30T11:23:00.000-07:00

There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about choosing the right swimming pool filter to be sure that you’re getting the best performance and clearest pool water. Filters are one example when bigger is better!

Flow Rate / Filter Ability = Filter Size

Filter Ability for the different types of filters are as follows:

D.E. = 2 GPM per square foot

Cartridge = 0.375 GPM per square foot

Sand = 15 GPM per square foot

Ex: 75 GPM

Filter size for D.E., Cartridge and Sand would be:

75 / 2 = D.E ……. 37.5 sq ft

75 / 0.375 = Catr. …. 200 sq ft

75 / 15 = Sand …… 5 sq ft

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool Spa and Hot Tub Heater Output Per Hour

2011-08-30T11:22:00.000-07:00

This article, as stated in the title, is about choosing the right heater to bring your pool, spa or hot tub water to the desired temperature.

Formula: Heater Output:

Pool Volume (gal.) x Temp Diff. X 8.33

Ex: 20,000 gal. pool that is 77 degrees and you want to

heat it to 83. It would be; 20,000 x 6 x 8.33 = 999,600. Thiss means that you would require a 1,000,000 BTU heater to get the pool up to temp in one hour.

Note: 1 BTU = 1 lb of water raised 1 degree F.

Note: 1 gal of water = 8.34 lbs.

To find heater input: Heater Output / Heater Efficiency

Ex: Heater output = 1,000,000 BTUs

Heater Efficiency = 80%

1,000,000 / .8 = 1,250,000BTUs (Heater Input)

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool Filter Ability Rate (FMR)

2011-08-30T11:21:00.000-07:00

DIY just like a Pro!

This article, as is stated in the title, is about figuring out the rate at which water will pass through the filter media. Measured in gallons per minute per square foot (GPM/sqft)

Formula:

Flow Rate / Filter size (in sq. ft.) = Filter Ability

Ex: Flow Rate = 111GPM

Filter Size = 55.5 sq. ft.

111 / 55.5 = 2GPM Filter Ability

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate Swimming Pool Flow Rate

2011-08-30T11:19:00.000-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about how to calculate the flow rate of the pool water running through your system. This is an important calculation upon which many other pool formulas are based. In commercials pools and spas this is regulated by the State or Local Environmental Health Services and minimum flow rates are required.

Formula:

Pool Volume (gal) / Turnover Rate (minutes) = Flow Rate in GPM

In California (at this writing) the required turnover rates are:

Pools = 360 minutes (or 6 hours)

Spas = 30 minutes (1/2 hour)

Ex: a 40,000 gal pool would be: 40,000 / 360 = 111 GPM

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate Turnover Rate for Swimming Pools and Spas

2011-08-30T11:18:00.000-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about calculating turnover rates. One “turnover” is the amount of time it would take for the volume of the pool or spa water to pass through the filtration system one time. Obviously, the water is constantly mixing and, therefore, not all of the water will be filtered in the time it takes for the total volume to pass through the system but that is not important. Turnover Rate is measured in hours.

Formula:

Pool Volume (gal) / Flow Rate (GPM) / 60 = Turnover Rate (Hours)

Ex: 40,000 gal pool with a flow rate of 111 GPM would be:

40,000 / 111 / 60 = 6 hour Turnover Rate

Spa or Hot Tub Water Changing Formula

2011-08-30T11:16:00.001-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about calculating how often you should change out, or dump, your spa water. How do you know when it’s no longer worthwhile to try to improve your spa or hot tub water using chemicals? When is it better and more cost effective to simply dump the water and start over? Use this simple formula to find out if you’re fighting a losing battle.

Formula:

Spa Volume (gal) / 3 / # of users per 24 hours = Days

Example: 2,000 gal spa with 50 users over a 24 hour period.

2,000 / 3 = 666/ 50 = 13 Days

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate the Amount of Water (Volume) in Your Swimming Pool or Spa Square or Rectangular

2011-08-30T11:15:00.000-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about finding out how much water is in your pool or spa. You need this number for anything you want to do to or with your pool or spa. From chemical additions to turnover rates, filter rates, water changes, heating, etc.

Formula:

Length x Width x Ave. Depth x 7.48 = Volume in Gallons

Or L x W x AD x 7.48 = V

Note: 1 cubic Foot = 7.48 Gallons

Note: Average Depth is found by adding the depth at the deepest and shallowest areas of the pool then dividing by 2.

Ex: a rectangular pool measuring 18’ x 36’ with a 3’ shallow end and a 9’ deep end would be

18 x 36 x 6 x 7.48 = 29,082 gal. It is perfectly acceptable to round this number to 29,000. Anything less than 500 gallons is not going to have a huge impact on a body of water this size.

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Know When to Add Chlorine to Your Pool or Spa,…and How Much

2011-08-30T11:12:00.001-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about when to add chlorine and how much you should be using. The formula we will be using is the same one that is used to calculate any chemical change in your pool or spa but we are looking at chlorine separately because it serves a different purpose in your pool than the chemicals, such as acid, do. It is used for sanitation and oxidation of organic matter.

Formula:

Amount of Chlorine (oz, lb, fl. oz, gal) x Pool Volume (gal) / 10 x Adjustment (PPM) / 1 = Total Amount needed

To get the first value, you must decide which type of chlorine you will be using and at which concentration levels.

Each has it’s own number to raise Free Chlorine (FC) by 1PPM, as follows:

Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo) 65% AC = 2.0 oz

Cal Hypo 70% AC = 1.9 oz

Cal Hypo 75% AC = 1.8 oz

Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine)

12% AC = 10.7 fl oz

10% AC = 12.8 fl oz

Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione (Dichlor)

56% AC = 2.38 oz

62% AC = 2.15 oz

Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (Trichlor)

90% AC = 1.5 oz

Lithium Hypochlorite (Lithium Hypo)

28% AC = 4.7 oz

35% AC = 3.8 oz

Chlorine Gas

100% AC = 1.3oz

For our example, we’ll just use liquid chlorine, or bleach at an AC level of 12%. Let’s say we’re standing over our 40,000 gal pool which has a chlorine reading of 1.0 PPM and we would like that number to be a 3 PPM.

Ex: 10.7 fl oz x 4 x 2 = 85.6 fl oz of liquid chlorine would be needed.

There are times when you will need to Super-chlorinate or Shock your pool or spa water. To calculate how much chlorine you will need to reach, what is called, “Breakpoint Chlorination”, you will need to measure, both, Free and Total Available Chlorine (FAC and TAC). If these numbers are not within 0.3 of each other, you need to shock.

Formula:

Step 1. TAC – FAC = Combined Active Chlorine (CAC)

Step 2. CAC x 10 = Adjustment

Step 3. Use the Chemical Adjustment Formula

Ex: Same pool as above but the FAC = 2.0 and TAC = 4.0

4.0 – 2.0 = 2.0

2.0 x 10 = 20.0

10.7 x 4 x 20 = 856 fl oz or 6.69 gallons of chlorine. Obviously, we can just use 7 gallons.

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Things to Know About Your Swimming Pool/Spa Filter

2011-08-30T11:11:00.000-07:00

This article will help you better understand your filter’s ability to remove matter from your pool’s water.

The Filter type, Filter Rate, Effectiveness and Media Life of each of the 3 types of pool filters is shown below.

Filter Media- Sand & Gravel:

Filter Rate= 1.5-5 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness: 50-100 Microns

Media Life: Top Layer = Yearly. Entire Media = 5-10 years.

Filter Media- High Rate Sand

Filter Rate= 12-20 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 25 Microns (clean filter)

Media Life= Top few inches= Yearly. Entire Media = 5-10 years.

Filter Media- D.E.

Filter Rate= 1-2 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 1-2 Microns

Media Life= 2 months

Filter Media- Cartridge

Filter Rate= .0375- 1.0 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 15 microns

Media Life= 6-36 months

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool/ Spa Water Problems, Causes, Solutions and Preventions

2011-08-30T11:08:00.000-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about the many commons problems found when maintaining a pool or spa, what may be the cause, common solutions and what you can do to prevent it happening to you again.

Problem: Cloudy Water

Possible Cause: Early algae growth, High pH, High Total

Alkalinity

Suggested Solution: See “Algae” section below, Lower

pH to 7.2-7.8, Lower Total

Alkalinity to 80-125

Preventative Maintenance: See “Algae” section below,

Maintain pH in ideal range,

Maintain Tot. Alk. in ideal

Range

Problem: Discolored Water

Possible Cause: Green/Hazy= algae, Green/Clear=

Copper or Iron,

Black/Purple/Red/Brown= Manganese

Suggested Solution: See “Algae” section below, Adjust

pH, Shock treat, Run filter,

continuously, until water is clear,

Use a metal remover followed by a

filter clean.

Preventative Maintenance: See “Algae” section below,

Maintain proper pH, Use a

sequestering agent

Problem: Algae

Possible Cause: Insufficient Chlorine

Suggested Solution: Adjust pH, Brush walls with steel

or nylon brush, shock, run filter

until water clears, clean filter. If

Yellow or Mustard algae- use an

algaecide.

Preventative Maintenance: Maintain a minimum free

chlorine reading of 1-3ppm

in all cases

Problem: Eye & Skin Irritation

Possible Cause: Improper pH, Chloramines

Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, See “Chlorine

Odor” below

Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH in 7.2-7.8

Range

Problem: Chlorine Odor

Possible Cause: Insufficient chlorine (The cause is,

not too much, but rather, not

enough chlorine.)

Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, shock pool

to 10ppm of Free Chlorine (use

DPD test kit)

Preventative Maintenance: Shock treat pool weekly

or bi-weekly in the

summer.

Problem: Scale Formation

Possible Cause: High pH, High Total Alkalinity, High

Calcium Hardness

Suggested Solution: Lower pH to 7.2-7.8, Lower Tot.

Alk. to 80-120, Use sequestering

agent, Partially drain pool

Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH at 7.2-7.8

range, Maintain T.A. at

80-120 range

(depending on type of

pool)

Problem: Corrosion of Metal Parts

Possible Cause: Low pH, Low Tot. Alk., Low Calcium

Hardness

Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, Raise Tot.

Alk. to ideal range, Raise

Calcium Hardness to ideal range

Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH at 7.2-7.8,

Maintain Tot. Alk. at 80

-120, Maintain Calcium

Hardness at 400-600

Ppm

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Characteristics of Chlorine in Your Pool and Spa Water

2011-08-30T11:05:00.001-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about the strength, types, physical properties of and pH effect of the different types of chlorine used in pools and spas. Also included are the same qualities of Bromine.

% of available chlorine:

Sodium Hypochlorite = 10-12%

Calcium Hypochlorite = 65-78%

Lithium Hypochlorite = 35%

Gas Chlorine = 100%

Trichlor = 90%

Dichlor = 56-63%

BCDMH Bromine = 27%

% of active strength:

Sod. Hypo. = 10-12%

Cal. Hypo. = 65-78%

Lith. Hypo. = 29%

Gas Chl. = 100%

Trichlor = >99%

Dichlor = >99%

Bromine = 95.5%

pH in 1% solution:

Sod. Hypo. = 13

Cal Hypo = 8.5-11

Lith Hypo = 10.8

Gas = 0

Trichlor = 2.8-3.5

Dichlor = 6.5-6.8

Bromine = 4.8

pH effect in water:

Sod Hypo = Raises

Cal Hypo = Raises

Lit Hypo = Raises

Gas = Lowers

Trichlor = Lowers

Dichlor = Neutral

Bromine = Lowers

Physical Appearance:

Sod Hypo = Liquid

Cal Hypo = Granular, Tabs, Brisquet

Lit Hypo = Granular

Gas = Gas

Trichlor = Granular, Tabs

Dichlor = Granular

Bromine = Tabs, Granular

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

Commercial Swimming Pool and Spa Bather Loads

2011-08-30T10:36:00.000-07:00

This article, as is stated in the title, is about calculating how many swimmers/bathers are allowed in any commercial body of water at any one time. The numbers are accurate for California pools and spas as of 8/01/10 per California State Code Title 22 #65521. Using these formulas will tell you how many bathers are allowed in your particular pool or spa.

Formula:

Bather Capacity- California

Spa Pool = 10 sq. ft. per bather

Other Pools = 20 sq. ft. per bather

Bather Capacity- Non Calif. Pools

Outdoor Pools = Deep End- 27 sq. ft./bather

Shallow end (<5ft)- 15 sq. ft./bather

Indoor Pools = Total Pool Surface Are = 24 sq. ft./bather

Maximum Daily Bather Load in a 24 hr Period = 4 x bather capacity

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM

http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Better Develop Your Pool Business by Improving Customer Communication Easily and Affordably

2011-08-29T22:32:00.000-07:00

Give Your Customers A Reason to Love You!

One of the trends that are developing throughout every industry is improved customer contact. Whether through auto-respond emails or a call center providing follow-up customers are wanting and expecting more. There are more and more options available to consumers and you need to be able to give them more. They want to be informed and updated as to what is going on with the pieces of their life they have entrusted to others. Life has become more and more specialized, meaning, simply, that people are becoming less tolerant of doing tasks themselves that they can just pay others to do but they want to be involved more than ever before.

You NEED to be making a regular connection with your customer base if you expect to keep them. It’s also extremely important if you want to be able to continue to grow your customer base.

Connecting with your customer when you are in the pool industry can take many forms. A lot of service companies use door hangers. Many are using newsletters, either monthly or quarterly. The drawback to door hangers is that they can take time to write a personal note, they cost money to design and print and, eventually, they lose their effect. I have also heard that many customers do not like them and actually, sometimes, find them annoying.

Newsletters are great but take time and money to write, print, fold, stuff and send. I recommend doing a quarterly newsletter. These are a wonderful opportunity to make a personal connection with customers and can be used to advertise product, equipment, run specials and remind customers that you reward referrals and other such information that you pass on. There are companies out there who charge a fee and will write a quarterly newsletter for you if writing is not your strong point or if you are pressed for time. These can be customized for your individual business with logos and specific messages you want to convey.

There is a better way, and easier way, to make a quick, effective, weekly connection with your customers. It can be used alone or in addition to either or both of the above methods. It provides more than just a weekly connection, though. It validates your worth to the customer. It shows them when you were there and what you found when you tested their water. They don’t know what these numbers and values mean but, they don’t need to! That’s why they have you! In fact, it does even more than validate, it reinforces and mandates your presence on their property each week. All at a premium that you have an opportunity to set, higher than you’re getting now and higher than the competition because you’re giving your customers more.

The service is called www.cpo2go.com. It also provides easy, one-click-email features to make emailing customers a snap. It records and logs all readings, dates and times of visits which allows for you to track chemical trends and helps keep track of employees and lost time throughout the day. It is also a calculator that figures the chemicals needed to balance the water based on the formulas used in the Langlier’s Saturation Index as well as chlorination tables and Break-Point, or Super Chlorination.

It takes less than 2 minutes per pool and does all of the things mentioned above in just a few clicks at each location. It is the cheapest most advanced and complete system ever created for the swimming pool industry.

The cost for all of this is only $6.99 per month!

Try it today for FREE for the first 30 days and decide for yourself…and introduce your customers to a new higher level of service.

Find Out How Your Pool Service Business Can Improve the Bottom Line

The Pros and Cons of Some of the Most Popular Pool Cleaners on the Market

2011-08-29T22:28:00.000-07:00

Owning a pool is hard work and expensive. There are many ways to make the care and maintenance easier and more affordable and putting a pool cleaner, or vacuum, in your water is one great way to help with the housekeeping.

The challenge is in choosing which cleaner to buy, both in style and function. There are three main kinds that I have experience with, Suction, Pressure and Robotic. I can help you decide which one is best for your situation and I can give you my “Pros and Cons” with regard to each one based on my real-world, day-in, day-out dealings with those that I have come across.

1. Suction-side cleaners: these are run off of the circulation pump and the hose either plugs directly into the skimmer port or to a designated line plumbed into the pool wall. They are great for fine debris and light leaf loads. Moderate amounts of heavier debris might warrant an in-line leaf bag, usually sold separately. Sand and dirt are sucked into the filter and trapped there. It is like vacuuming your pool everyday for as long as you’re running your circulation system. If you have a pool with a lot of heavy debris, this type of cleaner is not for you.

2. Pressure-side cleaners; these are powered by a booster pump through a designated line plumed into the pool wall. They are ideal for pool with heavy debris but they are not great for finer stuff. If you use one of these you will still need to vacuum as needed. The debris is trapped in a bag which is attached to the outside of the cleaner.

3. Robotic cleaners: these cleaners are put into the pool to clean then removed when it is done. These are plugged into a power outlet and the cord runs to a box that controls on/off and a timer feature. Some models offer more features. The robot goes into the pool and runs around the floor for as long as the timer has instructed it. These cleaners work in a way similar to a pressure side cleaner in that the debris is forced into a bag which is built into the cleaner. One major difference is that the bag filters much finer than the pressure side bag. This feature allows for the cleaners ability to pick up fine debris as well as the heavier leaves.

Based on the information I just gave you, it would seem that the robotic cleaner would be the way to go. It works in any pool, you have the benefit of it being easy to take in and out of the pool, it runs on its own power and it picks up all types of debris. The drawback is 2 things. First, because it is designed to operate independently, you are required to turn it on every time you want it to work. Also, it’s not designed to stay in the pool so you need to set it up each time you want to use it. The bigger sticking point for many pool owners is the price. They cost about twice as much as the other cleaners.

The pressure side cleaner can seem like a more economical choice if you already have a port plumbed for it. Keep in mind, though, that it costs money to operate the booster pump and as the pump ages; it’s just one more thing to replace when it fails.

Are Mineral-Based Alternatives To Chlorine Any Good? Do They Really Work?

2011-08-29T22:26:00.000-07:00

Take the Guess-work Out of Pool Water Chemistry!

In my experience, I have seen several pools which have used mineral-based sanitizers which are plumbed into the pools circulation/filtration system. What these devices are designed to do is not to replace the chlorine but to reduce the amount used for sanitation. Many of them allow for a chlorine reading of just .5ppm.

The 2 most common minerals used in the pool and spa water industry are Silver and Copper. Both have the ability to kill bacteria and silver has been used for over a hundred years for that purpose in the medical industry.

There is quite a bit of technical information about these devices but that can be found online and from the manufacturers but this article is written for the layman who wants to know one thing; do these things work. I have installed them and operate several pools with them so, I wouldn’t say I am the expert but, I am qualified to give you the benefit of my experience and my opinion.

The ones that use silver have given me much better results and have been more consistent. I have used algaecides which feature silver as their active ingredient and I know how well it works to choke off the algae and help prevent it from returning. There are 2 devices registered with the EPA that use silver. One uses colloidal silver released from beads. The other uses a form of silver salt. The second form of device also incorporates calcium carbonate which helps to control pH levels.

The copper based systems also work fairly well but you must be aware of the chlorine levels. Copper and chlorine used together can cause plaster staining. This can happen easily and quickly. It is extremely important to maintain low chlorine levels whenever introducing copper into the water, whether through a copper-based algaecide or a copper-based mineral sanitizer.

It is important to look for an EPA registration number when purchasing one of the above devices. Formerly they were not required to be registered but that has since changed and it is against regulations to market such a product without one.

Pool Water Chemistry, Simplified

Water Chemistry for Swimming Pools, Hot Tubs/ Spas. What You Need To Know

2011-08-29T22:22:00.000-07:00

If You're Not Using This Yet,...You SHould Be!

There is no more important element to maintaining a healthy, attractive and comfortable swimming/bathing environment than water chemistry.

Each time you add anything, in the way of chemicals, you are affecting more than just the reading you are trying to adjust.

Below is an easy-to-reference list of some of the most common balancing chemicals and how they effect each other:

Muriatic Acid is used to lower pH as well as Total Alkalinity.

To raise pH, Soda Ash is used which has an effect on Total Alkalinity albeit not as great.

To raise Total Alkalinity, Bicarbonate of Soda (or Sodium Bicarbonate, also known as Baking Soda) is the chemical you would use. This has a slight influence on your pH.

The most important thing to remember when adjusting either of these two factors is, always adjust Alkalinity first! If you need to lower your pH and you are starting with a Total Alkalinity that is at the lower end of the acceptable range (80-120ppm) you need to raise that number first.

Depending on the sanitizer you are using, that will effect your pH either raising or lowering it depending on the pH number associated with your sanitizer of choice.

Liquid Chlorine has a pH up around 13 which will cause your pH to rise when used. A good rule of thumb is to use 1 Quart of Muriatic Acid for every Gallon of Liquid Chlorine you put into the water to help counter that high pH value.

Granular Chlorine and Tabs both have a low pH so you need to keep an eye on your pH and Alkalinity levels to be sure that they do not get to low which would indicate that your water is too acidic.

There are many calculators available online as well as several different apps that calculate chemical dosing schedules but there is only one out there that takes ALL the factors into consideration when recommending adding anything to your pool or spa. Please take advantage of this site and use it for free for 30 days. After the free trial it only costs $3.99 per month. About the cost of one gallon of chlorine.

Try it FREE today!

Knowing How to Choose the Right Type of Filter For Your Swimming Pool's Needs

2011-08-29T22:11:00.000-07:00

Take Perfect Care of Your Pool Water

There are a few technical angles to figure out when selecting a filter for your pool system. There are also some new issues that are coming about as serious considerations for many pool owners.

The environment is at the fore-front of decisions we make daily. It is in the news daily and, whether you agree with it or not, there are laws being created to protect it. Environmental groups are being more vocal and their voices are being heard. Diatomaceous earth (commonly called D.E., for short) and sand filters are trying to be outlawed by groups whose job it is to protect the environment. These groups have been initiating and winning battles in various counties and the trend is spreading.

The issue with these 2 types of filters is that they both require backwashing. This is the process of running the water backwards through the filter to “rinse” the organic material, built up inside which is clogging and restricting the effectiveness of the filter, off. The process works well but the problem is where the water ends up. It goes to “waste” which is, to say, out into the sewers, water treatment plants and, ultimately, the back into our environment. Many backwash valves just end up pushing the water out onto lawns which leaves a mess of D.E. and chemically treated water in its wake. The D.E. is not healthy. It is a registered carcinogen and, if not for its rampant use in agriculture, would be illegal due to the health issues it presents. Sand filters do not produce any residue but still dump hundreds of gallons of pool water back into the environment. The water chemistry which is considered ideal for maintaining comfortable, healthy swimming conditions is anything but ideal in nature. The water is deadly to plants and animals. Remember, the goal in a swimming pool is to prevent living things from being a part of your pool.

Another issue with regard to backwashing is just that; the fact that you are taking hundreds of gallons of water out of your pool just to buy yourself some extra filter time. It is certainly convenient but water costs money, lots of money, depending where you live. And the price is going, and will continue to go, up. Any water you take out of your pool, you have to put back.

Depending on the area of the country in which you live, different filter systems are more or less popular. Here in California, cartridge filters are taking over as the filters of choice for the reasons listed here and other, good reasons. There are easy to clean and there is minimal mess. Maintenance consists of opening the filter tank, removing the elements and either hosing them off or soaking them overnight in a solution to break down oils. This needs to be done about every 6 months, more or less often based on specific considerations such as pool usage, surroundings, and filter size.

The other considerations when choosing a filtration system for your swimming pool are related to calculations based on Flow Rate, Filter Area, Filter Media Rate (FMR), plumbing size, pump size, Turnover Rate and other hydraulics which I recommend having a Licensed Swimming Pool Contractor figure out for you.

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What Swimming Pool Owners/Operators Should Know About Recreational Water Illness

2011-08-29T22:06:00.000-07:00

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Recreational Water Illnesses (RWI’s) are on the rise. The Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC, www.cdc.org) reports on disease outbreaks every two years and the increases in RWI’s have been alarming.

Among the most common illnesses related to commercial/public pools, spas, therapy pools, hot tubs and water parks are Cryptosporidium (Crypto), Shigella, Giardia, E. coli, Adenovirus, Hepatitis A, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Swimmer’s Ear, Legionnaires Disease, Molluscipoxvirus, Plantar Warts, and Athlete’s Foot.

Some of these terms are familiar, others, you’re not even sure how to pronounce, much less know what it is. At the very least, none of them are good and you certainly don’t want any of them mentioned in relation to your facility.

The really disappointing news is that, of the reported cases, nearly one quarter could have been prevented simply by having the proper level of sanitizer present in the water. Maintaining a healthy, safe environment for bathers doesn’t have to be difficult but it does require consistency and having a plan for when things happen.

The above bacterium, viruses and parasites are grouped into two categories, the first 6 are Fecal Related Illnesses or Enteric and the remaining 6 are Non-Enteric Illnesses.

Every facility should have a plan in place for enteric incidents. Every person who is responsible for the pool should know exactly what to do if there is a Fecal Accident. It should be taught, rehearsed and practiced by all pool staff and posted where everyone can see it.

The parasite, Crypto, is a growing problem due to a lack of knowledge and action by too many operators and facilities, as well as lax policies and/or enforcement of policies.

Crypto can live in properly sanitized water for 10.6 days. This makes it all the more important that everyone, involved, knows what to do in the case of a fecal accident. The parasite goes through two stages with the second stage being resistant to chlorine and has an incubation period of up to seven days. Affected bathers could have symptoms of diarrhea, cramping, fever and vomiting for up to 2 weeks. Patients with weaker immune systems, including young children or the elderly, may have the disease for life. As of this writing, there are no known drug treatments for Cryptosporidiosis.

Each of the above conditions can cause serious problems for bathers and can cost the facilities where they are contracted thousands of dollars due to refunds, fines and any legal settlements resulting from illnesses. Future revenues can also be affected due to bad press/publicity causing fewer future guests. Especially with users posting reviews online about their experiences, just imagine what one bad review could do to your hotel, motel, fitness club, or housing association.

“An ounce of knowledge is worth a pound of flesh”… don’t take any chances with your pool or the health and safety of your guests.

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Article by,

Jef Kirchmaier, CPO

5 Easy ways to Save Time and Money on Swimming Pool Care

2011-08-29T21:29:00.000-07:00

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· Keep all pump and skimmer baskets free of debris. Keeping the baskets free of leaves and other debris, you increase the flow rate through your system. This allows you to move more water in less time resulting in shorter run times and less work for your pump and motor.

· Oversize your filter and keep it clean. By increasing the filter area, you increase the flow through the filter as well as the time between filter cleans. Better filtration and increased flow make the system more efficient and allow for a reduction in chemical use. Also, the increased flow makes automatic cleaners, as well as manual vacuuming, work better and take less time.

· If you have a cover for your pool, use it. This can help in other ways, too, but by keeping debris out of the pool, you can reduce the amount of time you spend, physically cleaning up all the leaves, sand, dirt and other materials that can be deposited in the pool every time the wind blows. At the very least, remember to close it in the evenings before winds begin picking up. Covers can save you quite a bit on chemicals also. By keeping your pool covered during the day, you can keep the sun from burning off all of your chlorine. If you have a professional taking care of your pool, have the cover off when he/she gets there and do not have him/her close it. By having it open when they come, they don’t have to spend time opening it (keep in mind that everything you do to save them time, saves you money.) and, by not having them close it, you extend the life of the cover by not exposing it to fresh chemicals added during the visit.

· Make sure you are running your pool the right amount of time each day. Knowing how much water is in your pool and the rate of flow though your system you can then deduce how long to run your pump. Too long and its wasting energy. Too short and you’re asking your chemicals to do too much and spending too much time, physically, cleaning the pool. If you have a 20,000 gallon pool, you should be moving 20,000 gallons through your filter e very day.

· Make sure you’re not always playing catch-up. 90%, or more, of pool care is preventative. If you take care of your own pool, don’t put it off because things look good. Your pools water should always look good. If you have someone taking care of it for you, don’t assume they are doing nothing or that you don’t need them just because things look good. If you’re constantly battling cloudy or green water or algae continues to appear, you either need to increase your chemicals, clean your filter or be more thorough with the “house cleaning” (brushing, vacuuming, etc.) or some combination of the three.

· Using the above tips, you can save time, money and energy for both yourself and your pool professional. Enjoy!

Pool Water Care, Simplified!