360renos

Backerboard for Ceramic tile

2013-04-10T06:48:00.001-04:00

Are you confused about the many options that are available to use as a backerboard when you want to lay ceramic tile?

Here is some great info from North American Tile to help understand the different systems and applications
http://www.ontariotile.com/backerboard.html

Dave
Owner - 360renos.ca

The Old Fashioned Way, Long Before Wallboard Panels ....


Mud Wall (Started): Wall mortar beds could be built plumb to fix ANY imperfections or uneveness on a vertical surface.	Mud Wall (Finished): Skilled and experienced tradepeople were required for this kind of work

But now we have backerboard, and as the construction industry evolved other products were developed to create similar results in less time. Cement Board ultimately replaced the old way of doing things. Cement Board Units (CBU) were installed over top the studs with either a vapor barrier behind the cement board panel, or a moisture proof membrane was applied over top the cement board. This became the industry standard for ceramic tile or stone installation in wet or moist areas.
After awhile, other products came on the market that made the installation of backer board even easier. GreenBoard was one of them. Basically it is a glorified gypsum board which was never able to resist moisture as it claimed. Garbage in ANY wet area of application. DenShield was also a gypsum product which seemed to have a high succcess rate IF installed as recommended by the manufacturer.

Moisture has always been the greatest concern and the determining factor for failure or success of any ceramic tile installation in showers, saunas, tub surrounds etc. WEDI Board is waterproof, light-weight and super easy to install. Basically, the choices are many but it's important to understand which product to use for each installation requirement.
Most backerboards are an acceptable addition to floor installations, but never assume they stiffen or strengthen a floor. They are a good base for bonding and may act as an uncoupling membrane ... BUT they will not reduce deflection. That can only be accomplished with plywood, solid blocking, added support under the floor or additional (larger) joists.
Each ceramic tile or stone installation is unique as are the methods and materials used to create every individual sysytem. So before you start loading up the shopping cart .... find the correct solution for your project.

Remember to ensure all your studs are plumb and flat before installing the backerboard. Unlike the old fashioned mortar walls which could be applied plumb and flat ... backerboards will follow the contours created by your existing studs or other surfaces.

Backer Board for Floors

Cement Board for Floor Application ... WRONG!	This photo was sent in by Brian (forum moderator) and clearly shows the WRONG WAY to install ANY floor panel. In this case there are combined factors headed for failure. The cement board isn't set into a bed of mortar, and there is an underlayment (1/4" mahogany) which isn't meant to be part of a ceramic or stone tile system.
Most backerboards used for floor applications must be set into a thin bed of thinset mortar. This application of mortar is meant to fill in voids that usually exist between various layers thus removing the possibility of deflection. Screws or other recommended fasteners are still required for a mechanical bond.	Visit the links below for each manufacturer's recommendations.

The following product descriptions are quoted in part from each manufacturer's website.
To find out how professional contractors feel about these and other products ...
Visit our Discussion Forum

Kerdi Board	Kerdi Board"Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD gives an absolutely level substrate with straight and precisely angled inside and outside corners, providing an instant base for a perfect tile covering." See my shower project using Kerdi Board Schlüter-KERDI-BOARD(click for more information)
WEDI	WEDI consists of a Styrofoam Brand Foam insulation core coated on both sides with a fibreglass mesh and polymer-modified mortar. The core is extruded polystyrene consisting of a closed cell membrane throughout, making it 100% waterproof. WEDI Corp. (click for more information)
Durock	Durock is 1/2" or 5/16" thick and can be applied over 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 3/4" oriented strand board (osb) using a latex modified thinset. Use a 1/4" square-notched trowel to spread the mortar. Place underlayment with joints staggered from subfloor joints. Leave about a 1/8" gap at all edges and fasten underlayment with 1-1/2" hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails or 1-1/4" Durock Brand Wood Screws spaced 8" in both directions. Try not nail or screw into joists. Use fiberglass mesh tape on all the seams and then smoothed with latex modified thinset. When 1/2" or 5/8" Durock is used in underlayment applications, follow the same procedures as above. CGC Inc. (click for more information)
WonderBoard	WonderBoard (1/2") has been rated by the Tile Council of America (TCA) for use as part of a ceramic tile installation system for plywood subfloors with 24" o.c. joists and 23/32" exterior grade plywood. Similar to the other CBU's, WonderBoard must also be installed into a bed of fresh latex modified mortar, seams staggered, screwed or nailed every 8" o.c. and the seams taped with 2" fiber glass mesh tape and leveled with mortar. Custom Building Products (click for more information)
HardiBacker	HardiBacker contains portland cement, ground sand, cellulose fiber, and selected additives. HARDIBACKER ® ceramic tile backerboard contains no asbestos or formaldehyde. James Hardie North America (click for more information)
PermaBase	PermaBase can be fastened with either a 1-1/2" galvanized roofing nail or 1-1/4" cement backer board type screws are used with wood framing. If you are attaching the PermaBase to 20 gauge or heavier metal framing, use 1-5/8" S-12 cement backer board screws. DO NOT use typical drywall screws. On the walls and floor/countertops, attach fasteners 8" o.c. in each direction. On the ceilings it's 6" o.c. in each direction. As you apply pieces of PermaBase next to one another, leave a gap of 1/8". You will pre-fill this gap with mortar during the taping process. You will need tape the seams with a 2" wide alkali resistant mesh tape. Using your trowel, pre-fill the gaps between the boards and coat the area with your mortar. Place the mesh tape over the joint and remove excess material using your trowel. You can use a typical drywall utility knife score and snap the PermaBase cement board. Turn board over and make a second pass of this cut. The edge will be clean and smooth. National Gypsum Company (click for more information)
PRO-Backerboard	PRO-Backerboard is a light weight cementitious backer unit (cbu) designed to provide a long lasting, moisture resistant and economical substrate for ceramic tile. BPB (click for more information)
Fiberock	Fiberock is engineered to meet both water and indentation resistance needs under resilient flooring, carpeting, hardwood, laminate flooring and ceramic tile. This all-purpose underlayment - manufactured from a specially engineered combination of gypsum and cellulose fibers. It resists water damage such as the swelling and warping often seen with wood products. CGC (click for more information)
DensShield®	DensShield® tile backer is a mold-resistant tile backer board with fiberglass-mat facings and a unique acrylic coating that blocks moisture from entering the wall or floor cavity. Georgian Pacific (click for more information)
GREENE-BOARD	GREENE-BOARD is a better environmental alternative and upgrade to replace gypsum drywall and cement backer boards for walls, floors and counter tops. Meets and exceeds, IRC, ASTM and ANSI standards. JONA Panel Sales (click for more information)

'Get It In Writing'

2013-04-07T15:49:00.000-04:00

360renos is helping a customer that did not get a written contract for their Kitchen renovation. The project has gone bad and the home owner has kicked the contractor off the project.

Home owners always should have signed contract for projects.
Always 'Get it in Writing'!

http://www.hiringacontractor.com/en/index.html

Dave
Owner 360renos.ca

Fixing Condensation Behind Basement Insulation

2013-03-10T11:22:00.002-04:00

A great question a from a homeowner in Alberta

Hi all,

This is our second winter in a newly built house. The basement was insulated with a layer of poly against the concrete and framing done about 2-3 inches off the wall. One layer of fiberglass batting is running horizontally and set in between the concrete/poly and the framing. A a second layer of batting is then running vertically between the framing for a total of two layers. There is then another layer of poly on the inside sealing it off. So it is concrete - poly - horizontal batting - framing - vertical batting - poly.

The problem is moisture has found a way in and there is considerable condensation between the poly and the horizontal batting. There is frost formation and it has condensed enough to seep out the bottom (which is how we noticed the problem).

I've opened up a few areas to assess, but am wondering what the best way to resolve this is? The ground will still be cold for another month or two (we're in Winnipeg) so I'm not sure if it's best to wait for things to warm up and the frost melts, or if this is urgent enough where I should start trying to rip out insulation now? A lot of insulation is actually frozen to that layer of poly on the concrete so it'll be messy.

Thanks for any advice.

This is a very common problem even here in Ontario
Below is my response to him.

I would leave it for now. let it warm up, then tear out all the insulation out and start fresh

Not sure of the National Building Codes for your area so you should find out before replacing materials to ensure it is completed correctly. I'm in Ontario so we use the OBC

You want an air barrier membrane against the foundation wall not a vapour barrier.

The poly vapour barrier only goes on the warm side of the insulation. What you currently have lets any warm air that enters the insulated area to condense and form water droplets and then freeze to the foundation wall. The warm air has nowhere to escape and gets trapped between the two layers of vapour barrier.

One area that is quite often missed and most likely is a cause for issue is to ensure when the new vapour gets installed that EVERY SINGLE entry point for warm air is either taped, and/or acoustic sealed. This includes the header area especially. No warm air behind the vapour barrier means no moisture/water damage.

A little reading that may help with understanding some correct ways to insulate
http://www.mah.gov.on.ca/Asset8275.aspx?method=1

Hope this helps answer some questions

Dave 360renos.ca

Working for Cash - Some thoughts

2013-02-17T10:56:00.001-05:00

Great article from the site Canadian Contractor.ca

http://www.canadiancontractor.ca/uncategorized/working-for-cash-some-thoughts

Cash-only mentality ruining home improvement scene

2012-11-09T07:43:00.001-05:00

Why do home owners continue to take chance with their homes?

Why would you let someone work on your home that is worth $200,000, $400,000 or higher just to save a few hundered dollars of HST

From damaged bathtubs, broken personal items to the dog running off we've heard it all and these accidents leave the home owner with no recourse to recoup money to pay for the damage

The home owner got to save a few bucks because they entered an agreement under the table with a company but, ends up spending hundreds and thousands to repair incorrect work or damage to their properties.

A company on your property not paying its taxes is not going to re-imburse the home owner if their trucks leak oil on your inter-lock driveway or puts a ladder through a window

Why would a company care about it's quality of work and adhere to best practices if the home owner doesn't care? No chance they will offer a warranty for their work and if they do they would not honour it as they wont be back if the home owner called.

Why would a company risk their business, livleyhood and that of their employees?
www.cra-arc.gc.ca/nwsrm/c...

Time for homeowners and business to turn this trend around -
www.househunting.ca/homes...
Dave
360renos.ca
http://www.handycanadian.com/local/contractor/8347

Basement Insualtion Systems

2012-10-28T17:41:00.001-04:00

Great info for Best Practices when insulating basements udring a renovation

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems

Dave
360renos.ca

Here we grow again

2012-03-17T07:29:00.000-04:00

Here we grow again - 360renos.ca seeking for an Electrical Contractor for residential projects.

Please contact me via e-mail

Thanks,
Dave

360renos

Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

2012-02-01T07:01:00.001-05:00

CMHC - Hiring A Contractor

Great advice from Canada Housing and Mortgage
Original Article

At some time, most homeowners will hire someone for repairs or renovations. Even a homeowner experienced in home repairs may have to hire a contractor or renovator because of the size or level of difficulty of the job. This fact sheet will help you choose a contractor and work effectively and fairly with the contractor to achieve the results you desire.

Who Do You Hire?

Once you have decided to renovate and know, or at least have a good idea of, what you want, choosing a contractor or renovator is a crucial decision. It’s not something you should rush into.

The contractor you hire should have the technical, business and interpersonal skills, the tools and the experience needed to do the job you want done. Hire a contractor who has experience with projects similar to yours. This contractor will know what materials and techniques are needed for your work; and even better, about problems with similar work — and how to solve them.

For large renovation projects, you can hire a renovator to take charge of the whole job since many renovation contracting companies are set up to handle both design and renovation work. You may hire an architect, architectural technologist (depending on the size of the project) or a designer to prepare your project’s plans for permit application and then invite contractors or renovators to submit a quotation based on these plans. These professionals may also provide their services to oversee your project, which may include obtaining all necessary permits, hiring a contractor(s) and the supervision of the work.

Finding and Choosing a Contractor

Start by looking for several suitable contractors. A good source of referrals may be a family member, friend, or neighbour who has had similar work completed. They can tell you about the dependability of the contractors they worked with, the quality of the work and their overall experience with that company. Other sources are your local homebuilder and renovator associations; local building supply stores; in some municipalities, your local building department; and through contractors' websites on the Internet.

Discuss your project with a few potential contractors to get their advice and suggestions on how they would do the work. At the first meeting, some may give you a rough estimate of costs, depending on the project’s scope and complexity. The first meeting is usually more to get to know the contractor and the contractor’s work. Unless you have been able to check out the contractor ahead of time you should not sign anything or pay anything at this stage.

You want to find out as much as you can, so ask a lot of questions, such as:

How long have you been in business?
What work are you, or your subcontractors, licensed to do, e.g., electrical, plumbing?
What kind of work do you specialize in?
Have you done a similar job before?
Will you use your own crew for the work or will you subcontract all or part of the job?
How would you handle a specific problem related to this project (e.g., installing kitchen cabinets on your sloping floor)?
How will you deal with the health and energy efficiency aspects of the job?
How and when do you clean up, particularly fine dust?
What work schedule will you follow?
What kind of warranty do you offer and what does it cover?
Do you carry workers’ compensation and liability insurance?
Will you provide a written contract?
Will you take out all required permits (e.g., building, plumbing, electrical)?

You won’t offend reputable firms with questions. If a contractor doesn’t seem to know much about the technical details of the job or doesn’t want to talk about them, you may have the wrong contractor.

If the contractor plans to do the whole job alone, make sure he or she has all the necessary skills and qualifications.

Most importantly, be sure you can get along with the contractor. If you cannot communicate effectively with the contractor, things can get very tense in a lengthy project. You want a contractor who will explain what’s going on as the project takes shape, who will discuss problems reasonably and who will work with you to make the result as good as it can be.

You also want someone who’s willing and able to help you refine your plans where possible, resulting in a more desirable and cost-effective project. A contractor who is knowledgeable about the type of work you’re doing should be able to suggest ways to get what you want and meet your budget.

The best proof of quality is satisfied customers. The contractors you decide to meet with should have references from at least three previous clients who have had similar work done. Don’t accept the references at face value. Phone them and ask about their experience with the contractor and their tradespeople and ask them if they were satisfied with the quality of the work. Were there any problems? Did the contractor keep them informed throughout the project? Did the contractor’s crew keep a clean work site? Was the work done on schedule? Were there changes to the scope of the work and if so how were they handled? Would they hire the contractor again or recommend the company to friends or family?

If the previous clients are willing, visit them to see the finished job. Their willingness itself is usually a sign that they were satisfied. Check with your local Better Business Bureau. It records complaints about contractors in your community.

Getting Estimates or Proposals

How many estimates do you need? There are no hard and fast rules here. Some consumers prefer to get a number of bids before making a decision. Others find that after the interview process, there is one contractor they strongly prefer and only ask that contractor to submit a formal written estimate or proposal. What really matters is that you end up feeling that you have adequate information to make the right choice of contractor.

As a general rule, with the proper drawings and specifications, three estimates will usually provide sufficient information for you to make a decision. To get estimates, especially for substantial projects, you’ll need good-quality drawings and detailed specifications. You can either use an architect or designer, or you can hire a renovator who offers design services as well as renovation services. In this latter case, the drawings can become part of the overall contract if you hire the renovator for the entire job. But you don’t have to use the same renovator for the work. Should you choose to use the set of drawings provided by this renovator to obtain other estimates, you may be required to pay for them.

Even with a small project, a set of written specifications is needed. Be as specific as you can: what type of flooring, what kind and brand of doors and windows, what kind of finishes you want.

For a large project, it can take two to three weeks for a contractor to prepare an estimate. Ask the contractor to submit it in person so you can discuss the estimate with them. Compare the estimate carefully and make sure that everything you ask for is in the estimate. It should include everything that the contractor will have to do to complete the job. Assume that anything not listed is not included in the price. As well, make sure the contractor provides you with a construction schedule.

In some cases, a contractor will give you a “fixed price” quote. A fixed price includes all the materials, labour, equipment and fees, plus contingencies, overhead and profit. In some cases allowances are established for items which you have yet to select, e.g., flooring and light fixtures. The allowance, which is only an estimate, is later adjusted once you have made your final selection.

If it is difficult to estimate just how much the job will cost — for example, for an old house that might need extra work — you can use the “cost-plus method” for contracts.

In a cost-plus contract, you pay the contractor the actual cost for labour, materials, equipment and a percentage for overhead and profit. Cost-plus contracts leave costs open-ended, so it’s best to set a limit so costs don’t get out of hand.

Remember, renovation may uncover hidden problems, so make sure you include a contingency budget to cover unforeseen costs.

Another option is a design-build contract, in which a renovator designs and carries out the whole project. You can use either a fixed price or cost-plus contract, again with a set cost limit.

Don’t automatically choose the contractor who gives the lowest estimate. It may be unrealistically low. The contractor may not have understood the project, may be underestimating what it will take to complete the work, or simply trying to get a price advantage over the competitors. In any case, you could risk unexpected and additional costs, or you may end up with a job that leaves you unsatisfied.

Look for a fair price. Factor in any differences in what the contractors are offering and the skills they bring to the job. Then add the intangibles: reputation, willingness to make suggestions and offer advice, the likelihood of standing behind the work. Choose the contractor you feel will give you the best overall value for your money.

Get it in Writing

Do not be tempted by a contractor who doesn’t have an address, doesn’t want a written contract and offers a discount if you pay cash. This type of underground economy transaction involves many risks and pitfalls that offset any savings to the homeowner.

For example, contractors who insist on cash may be unlicensed and uninsured; and without a written contract your cash advances are unprotected. They could neglect to get the required permits or inspections. Product warranties may not be valid if a recognized contractor does not install the items.

As well, an underground contractor may do poor work and create health and safety problems. If one of the contractor’s crew is improperly trained, is injured on the job or damages your property or a neighbour’s property, your homeowner’s insurance policy might not cover you and you could be liable.

A cash deal may leave you with no legal recourse if something goes wrong or the work isn’t satisfactory, or if the contractor walks off the job without finishing it. In fact, it makes it difficult for you to prove the contractor was ever there. And after you have paid the contractor, you may find that materials haven’t been paid for or workers haven’t been paid — and you are responsible for the bills. For your own protection and peace of mind, it’s best to deal in a legal and responsible way — always get it in writing.

The Contract

A detailed written contract between you and the contractor you hire is essential to any renovation or home repair project, no matter its size. Even the smallest job should be put in writing. For detailed information as to what should be included in a contract, making payments and to see an example of a contract refer to the About Your House titled "Sample Renovation Contract".

Completion Certificate

When the job is finished, the contractor may ask you to sign a certificate of completion. Don’t sign it until you have thoroughly inspected the work. If the contractor has to return later to finish a few minor details, you should note this, and if appropriate, hold back a portion of the payment to cover the outstanding work.

Professional contractors offer a warranty on their work and will come back if something goes wrong.

Holdbacks

There are three types of holdbacks:

Builders Lien Holdback — This type of holdback is intended to provide homeowners with protection should subcontractors or suppliers place liens against the property to secure payment for work performed, and who may not have been paid by the general contractor, for their services. This allows a period of time, after the project is substantially completed, for them to make any required claim. At times, the general contractor will arrange for these funds to be held in trust by a lawyer. Where there are no subcontractors or suppliers involved with the project, this requirement will not apply.
Note: The Builders Lien Holdback funds cannot be used to correct deficiencies. Each province has its own regulations regarding this type of holdback.Verify with your provincial authority for such rules or regulations in your area.
Deficiency Holdback — When a project is substantially complete, there will often be a number of items that are incomplete and/or which may need to be corrected. It is a standard procedure to hold back a reasonable amount of money (e.g., cost per item or a percentage of the total cost of the project) to cover the cost for these items. Once these items have been satisfactorily completed, complete payment is forwarded to your contractor.
Seasonal or Delivery Holdback — Depending on the time of the year (season) that your project is carried out, there may be items that cannot be completed (i.e., exterior painting, landscaping, etc.) and/or there may be products/material that are not readily available. In these situations, it is standard procedure to hold back payment(s) equaling the cost of the items remaining to be completed.

Working with your Contractor

Once the job is under way, you’ll see a lot of your contractor and the crew. The job will go much better if there is mutual respect and you co-operate with them. Talk with the contractor, so you know what’s going on and what might be needed from you — an empty driveway so the delivery van can bring in the new bathtub, for example. But don’t call every five minutes. Make a list of your questions and save them for a time which you are both available.

In spite of a clear, detailed contract, disputes can, and occasionally do, arise for any number of reasons. Good communication can go a long way in settling any disagreements between you and your contractor. As a first step, you should sit down together to discuss the problem calmly and seek a solution that you both can live with comfortably. This is usually the fastest, least expensive and ultimately, most satisfactory approach.

Try to be reasonable. Don’t overreact if something is wrong. Allow sufficient time for a response. As well, things the contractor can’t control, like bad weather and backordered components, can delay the job, so leave a little leeway in your schedule for them.

If these steps have not helped, you can follow the dispute resolution method, or mediator as identified in the contract. Architects and construction arbitrators are often used to settle any disputes.

As a last resort, and in cases where things are going so badly that the project seems unworkable, you have the option of cancelling the contract. This is why it’s wise to put a termination clause in the contract. You’ll likely have to pay to get out of the deal, so it’s best to agree on the cancellation penalty before you start.

If you think that some of the work is not up to local building standards, report it in writing to the appropriate inspection department, with a copy to your contractor. If the work doesn’t meet building code requirements, the contractor should have to correct it at his or her expense.

Also, you can report poor workmanship and unsatisfactory business practices to the government department that granted the contractor a business licence, where applicable.

Consumer Protection Laws

There are several laws protecting consumers. Provincial and territorial consumer affairs or consumer relations departments usually administer consumer protection laws. They can help you resolve problems between you and your contractor. Sometimes a phone call is enough, but a letter outlining the problem (giving names, dates, addresses and details) is often required before any action can be taken.

The consumer protection authority may send a building inspector to examine the work. The inspector’s report may be enough to settle the dispute. If not, the consumer protection office may provide mediation. The power of a government consumer protection office is a strong incentive for settlement. If it isn’t and legal action is required, the consumer protection office will give you further advice and assistance.

The Better Business Bureau, a monitoring agency maintained by the business community, will also handle consumer complaints and mediate disputes and try to get a fair settlement.

If legal action is necessary, you may be able to take the contractor to small claims court without having to hire a lawyer or the complications and delays of a formal court case. Although small claims court is relaxed and informal, its decisions are binding. The size of the claim you can make depends on the province or territory where you live. Your local courthouse can give you this information and direct you to the office that handles small claims cases.

About Insurance

It’s important to make sure the contractor has workers’ compensation and third-party liability insurance for all the people on the job and damage they may cause ($2 million is standard, this may not be the case in rural areas). Your local homebuilders’ association is a good source of information for what is standard in your area. Don’t just take the contractor’s word — ask to see a certificate and check to make sure it’s current. Don’t accept or assume any liability for the contractor or trades people.

As for your liability, your homeowner’s insurance policy may cover you during a project done by a renovator but you should always advise your insurance provider of any renovation work ahead of time. However, if you’re acting as your own general contractor and employing trades people, your policy won’t automatically cover you. You’ll have to ask your insurance company for temporary coverage, which will likely involve a small extra premium. Again, make sure any tradespeople you hire have their own insurance.

Checklist — Hiring a Contractor

What to do first
	Write a description of the work you want done, with as much detail as possible.
	Check with your municipal building department to ensure that the work can be done and if zoning approval or any special permits are required.
Find a contractor
	Ask friends and neighbours for recommendations.
	Get names from your family members, friends, local homebuilder and renovator associations, building supply outlets and, in some municipalities, your local building department.
	Ask contractors for their business licence number and check with the local licensing office and the firm’s insurance company for public liability and property damage insurance and workers’ compensation.
	Ask for references from past customers.
	Check with the Better Business Bureau for complaints against the contractor.
Establishing the cost: getting estimates or proposals
	Number of estimates or proposals: __1 __2 __3 Do you have:
	A complete description of the work to be done by the selected contractor?
	Samples and literature showing different products that could be used?
	Depending on the size of the project, plans or sketches and specifications of the work to be completed?
The contract should contain
	Correct and complete address of the property where the work will be done.
	Your name and address.
	Contractor’s name, address, telephone and GST numbers.
	Detailed description of the work, plans (or sketches) and a detailed specification of the materials (type, quality, model) to be used.
	The right to retain a lien holdback as specified in provincial law.
	A clause stating that work will conform to the requirements of all applicable codes, such as building, safety and fire codes.
	Start and completion dates.
	The price and payment schedule (keep in mind the lien and seasonal holdbacks).
	Agreement on who (homeowner or contractor) is responsible for all necessary permits, licenses, inspections and certificates.
Contractor’s responsibilities include:
	Public liability insurance.
	Property damage insurance.
	Identifying any necessary permits and ensuring all legal requirements are satisfied.
	Workers’ compensation for all employees of the contractor or subcontractors.
	All work carried out under the contractor, including work done by subcontractors.
	Removal of construction debris when the job is finished.
	Warranties on all contractor supplied work and materials (in addition to manufacturer’s warranties) for a period of at least one year.
Homeowner’s responsibilities include:
	Ensuring that all contracted work conforms to zoning bylaws.
	Ensuring adequate working space and freedom of movement for workers, and use of utilities.
	Ensuring prompt payment according to the requirements of the law and the holdback and payment schedule.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Great Article by Mike holmes

2011-12-23T07:09:00.001-05:00

Take a word of advice from Mike Holmes, Canada’s most veneered general contractor of all times.

It amazes me, after doing my television show all these years, that I’m still seeing homeowners making the same knucklehead mistakes over and over. The big one — the one that starts a chain of events ending in disappointment and frustration — is the notion that they want the renovation done “fast” and they want it done “cheap.” And let’s face it:, in the renovation game, fast and cheap add up to just one thing — crap.

Mike Holmes

Before you start flipping through the Yellow Pages and calling every contractor in the book, let’s get your expectations on the right planet. You should expect that in this day and age, skilled contractors are in high demand: good contractors are very, very busy.

This means when you do start phoning contractors, don’t be surprised that they don’t immediately answer their phones — they are probably standing on a ladder somewhere with their hands full when you call. Don’t take it personally or assume they are not interested in talking to you, but contractors won’t answer their cell phones every time it rings. Constant interruptions slow down a jobsite. For this reason alone, most contractors wait until they are away from the jobsite before they return your calls.

Depending on the volume of messages they get, it can take at least a few days to get back to you because your average licensed tradesperson is in business as an owner-operator. This means that they do all the work themselves and also do their own bookings. A slow response time is not necessarily a bad sign: it shows that they are in demand and it is a pretty good indicator that they are going to be well worth the wait.

It’s also important to understand that good contractors are booked at least two to four months in advance. If you feel you can’t wait, remember this: Bad contractors are always available right away — because they are not in demand, or worse, because they are more than willing to bump their current renovation in progress to get started on yours. Odds are, that situation will come back to haunt you when, halfway into your renovation, the same contractor will bump you in favor of his latest customer.

If a contractor says he will “try to fit you in as soon as he can” and to “please be patient,” take that as a sign that he isn’t going to take shortcuts on his current project just to get to yours that much sooner. High-quality work takes time. You also don’t want that same contractor to turn around and rush your job just to get to his next one.

Let’s talk about the other part of the consumer equation: cheap. No one wants to spend more than he has to on a renovation, but as the saying goes, “You get what you pay for.”

How much is the right amount? That requires some work on your part, because it means getting as many quotes as possible. In the end, you may get a few extremely high quotes and a few extremely low quotes, and most likely you will get the majority of quotes that fall around the same price. Chances are, one of those middle quotes will be the right price.

The higher quotes sometimes reflect the skill level of the contractor or the price that the market demands for certain contractors who have a reputation for outstanding-quality work. Extremely low quotes often mean that the contractor doesn’t have the experience to properly quote the job, let alone know what it will take to do the job properly, or that he knows how to take shortcuts with your home in order to undercut the legitimate competitors.

So as you start planning your project, be prepared to wait for the right contractor and understand that there are ways to find the right price for the renovation you want.

Source: HGTV

New 360renos.ca Brochure

2011-11-12T17:20:00.001-05:00

Awesome new brochure designed and printed by the great folks at Sureprint.ca in Orleans

If your a Realtor, Interior Designer or Decorator, Home Staging and Property Scene specialist send me an e-mail if you would like a professional brochure that you can include in your client packages.

360renos offers many services which can help your clients who may be in need of a small fix repair or painting project that is needed to sell their home quickly.

My brochure outlines what we offer and my quotes are always free!

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

LED Light Bulb Cost and Return on Investment

2011-11-05T08:51:00.000-04:00

The LED bulb I bought was pricey at $29.98 but like CFL's they will come down over time and as more manufactures come on-line. I sure wouldn't want to re-lamp my entire home in one shot. I will do it though as existing bulbs burn out.

Another area I was very impressed was the many varieties of LED bulbs available for the numerous applications out there. LED bulbs available as floods, PAR 20, GU 10, etc. I love it that my customers don't have to retro fit light fixtures to accommodate the new bulbs. I haven't seen any 3 way LED bulbs though.

So I did some math on the LED ROI because my curiosity got peaked upon reflection of the bulb cost.

For a lamp that's on six hours a day, that would give us 12 watts x 6 hours x 365 = 26.3 kWh. At $.092 per kWh (mid -peak price) that's $2.42 a year to operate. Subtract that from $12.09 (incandescent cost) and that's a savings of $9.67 a year.

The bulbs packaging says it has a lifespan of 25,000 hours, it should theoretically last for about 11 years in this application. Over 11 years, we would otherwise have to buy 22 incandescents, for a cost of $16.50, or about $1.50 each year. With the annual savings of $9.67 in energy and $1.50 in bulbs, the LED will pay for itself in just under three years.

Not bad!

I could see these bulbs being very beneficial in commercial applications which need a lot of light. It would be a huge cost savings for them.

I'm definitely looking forward to being able to provide my customers with an alternative lighting solutions now.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

New LED light bulbs are brighter and more efficient

2011-11-03T07:36:00.002-04:00

I just installed our first LED light bulb in our home.

Yes those same idea as a LED flashlight that has many little bulbs. Those numerous bulbs make a bright light shine from your flashlight now work very well in a household bulb.

I'm very impressed with the new product for numerous reasons.

The 60 watt equivalent only uses 12 watts of electricity and emits a very warm soft white light. Very similar to regular incandescent bulbs.

It turns on at full intensity instantly which those CFL's sure don't. Sure great for stairways!

The LED bulbs can be used in dimming light fixtures which most CFL's aren't. And the LED dimmable bulb does not hum like a dimming CFL.

These bulbs are reported to last 20 plus years which makes changing the open concept 2nd story ceiling fixture less of a hassle.

One test will be our cold Canadian winters. How will they work in the porch light at -20C? As you know heading out on a cold winter morning it would be nice to have some light.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

New Edinburgh - MacKay St Rec Room Project

2011-10-15T10:19:00.001-04:00

We went from a home that had an unfinished basement and leaking foundation (which you can read in my previous post) to a great additional space for our customers family.

Enjoy the pictures of the progression of the project.

Drywall taping and mudding

Electrical panel and communications center closet finished.

Wiring for pot lights. Drop ceiling installation. Door installation

Pot light installation

Baseboard, door and window trim

Another couple of days and the carpet will be installed

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Leaking Home Foundation

2011-10-01T00:35:00.004-04:00

360renos was getting ready to start a New Edinburgh basement Rec Room project when we found 25' of leaking foundation walls.

A picture speaks a thousand words!

But we had the moldy and rotted materials removed, cleaned up, repaired and dried out over the course of two weeks.

Then we got to rebuild from the ground up and improve upon the existing structure.

New tar paper and the framing was upgraded to 2x4's from the original 2x3's

New upgraded R14 Roxul insulation and vapour barrier.

New drywall, corner beads and taping.

Stayed tuned for more when we finish completing the basement.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Cost Effective Home Renovating

2011-07-14T09:32:00.000-04:00

When you buy a home, somewhere along the line you will be faced with the prospect of doing some home renovations. The good news however is, there are many ways accomplishing cost effective home renovations.

All you actually need to do is sit down, take a deep breath and begin to make a list of all the renovations you feel your home may need. At first, do not worry about putting a cost to these renovations, but rather make an accurate and detailed list of everything which you feel may be in need of renovation.

Once you have completed the list, try to prioritise it according to which of these renovations you feel are the most necessary taking into consideration the impact each of these renovations may have on the lifestyle of the homes occupants and on the look of the home as well.

When you look at this list and should you have been honest with yourself, you will soon realise that the renovations which are likely to have the most impact on the appearance of the home and more likely the comfort of its inhabitants are likely to be the more affordable and achievable ones.

Things such as a fresh coat of paint, cupboard renovations and even faucet and fitting renovations or replacements are guaranteed to have a great effect. These in reality are some of the smaller renovations which you may have chosen, but they truly have a great impact not only on living conditions but the value of the home as well.

More often than not one tends to want to tackle all of the renovations you wish done at once, but by breaking it down into a list and prioritising it, you are able to gain perspective and see that it is all possible in stages.

By handling the tasks one by one you reduce the initial cost shock and once you see the difference the smaller changes you make have made you will be more willing and able to take on the bigger ones.

Ezine Articles

Dave - 360renos

Swanson Lightning™ Levels

2011-05-04T14:29:00.001-04:00

Great idea for those dimly light basements!

You would think that many more manufacturers would have figured this one out a long time ago but Swanson put it on the market first. Swanson Lightning™ Levels, from 6" to 48" that have little LED lights to light up the vials when you are having trouble seeing the bubble either at night or in a dark workspace. Sears is supposed to carry them.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Paint a Brick Fireplace

2011-04-13T19:32:00.002-04:00

This is still a controversial decorating subject, but if you've got an ugly, dated brick fireplace, for goodness sake - paint it! I'm not talking about beautiful red brick, Georgian style fireplaces, I'm talking about dingy brown and grey, 1960s and 1970s units.

Honestly, giving it a couple of coats of paint will completely lighten and brighten your room, and possibly even increase your home's value.

This brick fireplace with log storage was painted last year for a customer and still looks great today.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Handy Weather & Renovation Tool

2011-04-02T22:36:00.001-04:00

Handy Weather Tool from joneakes.com and his Home Improvements news letter.

As the weather flirts around below and above freezing, it can get quite difficult to know just what you can do and what restrictions the weather might put on your projects.

Now is the most critical time of the year to use the database that I developed last year together with CTV. If you go to the Weather page on CTV.CA, check out your local short and long term forcast, then scroll to the bottom, you will see this little box that allows you to choose your project, then your material and it will tell you immediately any critical weather restrictions for that specific material: must stay dry x hours -- no freezing weather for x hours -- minimum and maximum temperatures for application and curing -- and more.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Renovator's council chair favours renewing Reno Tax Credit

2011-03-29T06:32:00.000-04:00

The proposed resumption of the Home Renovation Tax Credit was big news lost in the uproar that followed the unveiling of the Conservative Party's 2011 budget, but we are likely to hear a lot more about it.

The old program had been very successful, managing a rare marriage of stimulating an economy while promoting more earth-friendly ideals.

The Canadian Revenue Agency said more than three million Canadians -almost a third of the owner-occupied housing market -took advantage of the program, each saving an average of $700. Added to the 2011 budget ostensibly at the request of the New Democratic Party, the tax credit is a good bet to reappear when a federal budget is finally approved.
The chairman of the Canadian Renovator's Council, Mike Martin, was happy to hear it may be continued. "From what I've been hearing it's a great program. I am very happy they were going to extend it," he said.

In addition to chairing both the Canadian council and the Ontario Renovator's Council, Martin runs Luxury Renovations, an award-winning Ottawa-based company.
While the renovation program had been accused of not helping lower-class households or being too complicated, Martin said the program held no surprises.

"You have to go about it the right way, you have to follow all the guidelines to a tee."
Martin said there was benefit to making small changes as well as large ones.
The program would allow for up to 15 per cent of the cost of renovations to be claimed, to a maximum of $1,350, against a homeowner's taxes.

While the gain for the taxpayer is evident, Martin says the inherent structure of the program will provide a boost to the renovation industry.

"The best part about it is they have to show receipts from the contractor and that deters the underground economy," he said.

The council estimates 75 per cent of home renovations are done under the table, a fact he attributes to the implementation of the HST. "The underground economy is devastating our industry."

From the Ottawa Citizen

Dave Bennett
Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Renovation priorities are the first step

2011-03-22T21:28:00.000-04:00

Article by Hammer & Nail

For many homeowners, renovations can make for a long-term process that takes place in stages over a number of years. Decisions are driven by what needs to be done, how much money is available, and personal preferences.

If you will be renovating in stages, the Greater Vancouver Home Builders' Association says it makes sense at the outset establishing long-term priorities. Among the considerations it recommends:

- Decide how long you plan to stay in your home. Five, 10 or 15 years? More? The answer to that question will influence the renovations you undertake, the time frame for the work and the amount of money you will want to spend.

- Evaluate your overall space needs, now and for the future. How will they change over time? Do you have children whose needs for space may change? Do you have aging parents who might move in with you in the future? Can you find extra space within the existing framework of your home, in the attic or the basement?

- Evaluate the condition of your house. Go through it with a renovator or home inspector, listing repairs and replacements that might be required over the coming years.

- Make a list of your renovation objectives. Divide the list between the things you need in the short term (a new bathroom, for instance) and the things you would like to have (perhaps incorporating a spare bedroom into the master bedroom with an ensuite bathroom.)

- Develop a financial overview. Your renovator can advise you on the approximate costs of repairs and renovations. You can also contact suppliers and subcontractors for information. Next, determine where the money will come from, and how much you can afford.

- Be prepared to make trade-offs. Experienced renovators advise homeowners to find the balance between lifestyle improvements and repairs/ replacements needed to keep your home in good shape.

For instance, you may want to redo the bathroom and include a skylight to brighten it. But if your roof is in poor condition, it may be better to repair it and install a skylight first, and renovate the bathroom later.

- Consider the impact of a renovation. If you plan extensive renovations over time, careful planning will help to minimize inconveniences and disruptions to your household.

- Build into one phase what you need in the next. By planning ahead, you will get the best out of your renovation dollars and save money in the long run.

For instance, for a few extra dollars, your renovator might be able to install the connections for a future bathroom in the basement while renovating an existing bathroom on another floor.

- Put your plan in writing.

Dave Bennett
Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Will Navan make it into the Top 5 Finalists?

2011-03-15T18:36:00.000-04:00

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

Will Navan make it into the Top 5 Finalists?

Watch CBC Hockey Night in Canada

Saturday March 19th 10:30pm for the revealing of the Kraft Hockeyville Top 5 Finalists

IF WE MAKE IT

VOTE FOR NAVAN

(Unlimited voting and calling)

from Saturday March 19th11:00pm to Monday March 21st11:59pm

Toll free # 1-866-533-806

www.krafthockeyville.ca

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

2011-03-09T06:29:00.000-05:00

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

NAVAN MADE IT INTO THE TOP 10 FINALISTS

Let the voting begin!

from Tuesday March 8th 9:00pm

to Sunday March 13th 11:59pm

VOTE FOR NAVAN

Vote often…voting is unlimited!

Call toll free # 1-866-533-8066

or online www.krafthockeyville.ca

Be part of the team! Let’s win this together!

Hockey Day in Navan Feb 27th

2011-02-19T12:16:00.000-05:00

Choosing Glue

2011-02-18T10:43:00.000-05:00

As 360renos owner and contractor there is a wide array of glues and adhesives available that can be daunting. Use the wrong one on a project and it may not work as intended or worse yet ruin the materials your are fastening.

A little help form and a great article courtesy of Jon Eakes

Choosing Glue:

Before you_buy any glue you need to consider the following questions:

IS THIS GLUE_JOB STRUCTURAL OR NON-STRUCTURAL?
Some glues are rigid after curing while others remain flexible. No flexible glue should be used for a structural joint as it can slip. Hence no flexible glues like silicone or contact cement for building the structure of a chair.

WHAT ENVIRONMENT ARE YOU IN WHEN YOU USE THIS GLUE -- TEMPERATURE - HUMIDITY - WATER?
All glues have upper and lower temperature limitations, read the labels.
Some glues evaporate off solvents or water to cure -- too high humidity in the_room can slow or stop such evaporation. Some glues have chemical reactions that cure differently with different air temperatures but humidity has no affect on the cure -- like the epoxies. Other actually require humidity and will not cure without a minimum of humidity -- like silicone and polyurethane. In really dry environments, like Calgary, you may have to mist the surface first or mist the glue or sealant after application to start the cure.

HOW WELL DO THE TWO PIECES FIT TOGETHER?
Some glues are able to fill gaps and still be strong, like PL Premium (Polyurethane) and epoxies -- while others require a very tight fitting joint, like white glue, contact cement and super glues.

DOES THE GLUE YOU CHOOSE ADHERE TO BOTH THE PIECES TO BE JOINED?
Only contact cement will glue leather to glass well, white glue can do it fairly. Foam insulation will not accept any solvent based adhesive. Check compatibility.

HOW FAST DO YOU NEED THE GLUE TO GRAB, THEN TO CURE?
This is the basic difference between white and yellow woodworking glues. If you need a lot of time to put several pieces together, use the White glue -- if you need to liberate your clamps quickly, use the Yellow glue. Yes Yellow is stronger than White, but both are stronger than wood so strength is a non-issue.
Some glues are really instant -- like the super glues -- others have a quick grab and then a longer cure, like the thick glues for attaching molding without nails -- some are actually timed for the grab, like 5 minute or 60 minute epoxy, both of which require 24 hours for cure.

MUST IT BE WATERPROOF AFTER THE CURE?
Most glues cannot hold up to a lot of rain, but some are made for outdoor use and others even for underwater applications.

Answer all of those questions and your choice for the proper adhesive will be quickly narrowed down. Yes there are some almost universal glues, but these never do the_job quite as well as a specialty glue made for what you want to do.

Some Important Glues:

Although I was showing about 20 glues at the Laval show, here are the ones that caught people's attention:

Quick Grab glue for moldings -- with "Quick Grab" or "Instant Grab" written on the container, these adhesives are specially formulated for putting on moldings with few or no nails. They are very thick and create great suction when pushed into place. Unlike regular construction adhesives, they do not slip or pull away, unless the wall or molding is very crooked. Usually one or two nails, or wood supports for about an hour is all that is required to get them to hold. Give them 24 hours to totally cure before playing with the molding. Prior to these glues coming on the market we could only do this with contact cement, and that was touchy because you cannot reposition to get it in exactly the right place.

They even have a clean "Quick Grab" double sided tape available.

Water based contact cement -- Speaking of contact cement, water based contact cement is thinner than solvent based, doesn't smell (or_burn) and is actually stronger than solvent based contact cement. It costs more per can but less per square inch because it spreads further. For some reason people always think that the old solvent based contact cement is better -- not true. Always prime the edge of particle board with a coat of water based contact cement several hours before trying to apply iron on tapes to the edges. It will soak deep into the fibres and present an ideal anchored surface to the tape iron on adhesive -- never to come off again.

Underwater glues -- Yes you can fix things in the rain, or inside the swimming pool. Although some Marine epoxies are now in the stores, the best formulations I have ever found are only found on the web,www.MrStickys.com with rigid and flexible formulations that really work. There are two important details to working underwater -- use steel wool to clean and scrape the surface first, otherwise you are trying to glue to the algae -- work the epoxy mix onto the surface, slowly pushing away the water. At first it "skates" across the surface and then it begins to adhere because you are pushing the water out of the way. You can see and feel when you are getting adhesion. Without that "working in" there is water between you and the surface, and no long term adhesion. The water won't bother the epoxy but you do need to squeeze it out of the clean joint.

PLPremium vs PLPolyurethane -- PLPremium adhesive (we tend to call it an adhesive not glue when we get to construction applications, but the two words are really the same) is considered the Cadillac of construction adhesives. Waterproof when cured, it cures rock_hard so it can fill gaps or even support objects, is sandable and paintable and now comes in an "extreme" formulation 4 times stronger again! So what is PLPolyurethane that looks the same? This is the same basic material, but formulated to cure like a piece of flexible rubber. Although it adheres magnificently like glue, its flexibility makes it unsuitable for any structural use -- but it is the best of the caulkings (also called sealants) when used to seal up a building gap because it can stretch with building movement without breaking loose and will last 50 years.

Dave Bennett

Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

CFLs - The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

2011-02-04T12:46:00.000-05:00

Starting in 2012, stores across Canada will begin phasing out the sale of incandescent light bulbs under the terms of a federal ban announced in 2007. The ban is expected to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by more than six million tonnes a year and save homeowners about $60 annually in electricity costs.

Compact fluorescent bulbs are vastly more efficient. They use up to 75 per cent less energy than incandescent bulbs, which means reduced greenhouse gas emissions from energy plants. Fluorescent bulbs also last up to 10 times longer.

Fluorescent bulbs are extremely energy-efficient, using up to 75 per cent less energy than incandescent bulbs. (Associated Press)

The effects of the ban on incandescents are being felt first in British Columbia, which is a year head of the rest of the country with its provincially mandated phaseout having begun in January 2011.

Both the federal and provincial moves dovetail with those of other jurisdictions around the world. In 2007, Australia became the first country to ban the incandescent bulb, followed shortly after by the European Union. As of Sept. 1, 2009, the EU ended the manufacture and import of 100-watt and frosted incandescent light bulbs. Clear bulbs will be banned progressively, until all traditional bulbs disappear from stores across Europe in 2012.

The reason such bans have been introducted is because of the technology used in each type of light bulb.

Incandescents work by heating a filament inside a tube until it is white hot and gives off light. But more than 90 per cent of the energy involved in that process escapes as heat.

Fluorescent bulbs, on the other hand, use only a small amount of electricity to excite the gas (mercury vapour) inside the tube. The gas then gives off invisible ultraviolet light, which bounces off the phosphor coating inside the bulb to produce visible light.

While there is no debate over the merits of fluorescent bulbs when it comes to greenhouse gas reduction, there is rising concern over their disposal because they contain mercury.

The problem with mercury

Chronic exposure to mercury — a naturally-occurring element and a known neurotoxin — can damage the brain, spinal cord, kidneys and liver.

"Mercury can impair the ability to feel, see, move and taste and can cause numbness and tunnel vision. Long-term exposure can lead to progressively worse symptoms and ultimately personality changes, stupor and in extreme cases, coma or death," according to Health Canada.

Further, Health Canada says recent research suggests that even at low levels, mercury can have adverse health impacts on the cardiovascular and immune system.

While no mercury is released when the bulbs are in use, taking precautions when throwing them out is important. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates that three per cent of the total mercury in discarded fluorescent lamps is released to the atmosphere when they break during transportation to a disposal facility. Other researchers estimate emissions are as high as 17 per cent.

If a fluorescent bulb ends up in a landfill, the mercury can leech into the surrounding soil or be released into the atmosphere. If it is incinerated, the amount of mercury released into the atmosphere may be higher, according to Health Canada.

While fluorescent bulbs contain about five milligrams of mercury — less than in a watch battery, according to Natural Resources Canada — Health Canada recommends that items containing mercury be treated as hazardous waste.

Disposal varies across country

In Canada, the provinces are responsible for setting regulations around the disposal of household hazardous waste, but municipalities most often carry out the actual disposal.

Disposal programs vary from municipality to municipality, with some offering collection programs specifically for mercury-containing products, such as fluorescent bulbs, in which the mercury is captured and recycled. Other municipalities collect mercury-containing products as part of their general household hazardous waste program.

Not surprisingly, the Federation of Canadian Municipalities has said it would like manufacturers of fluorescent bulbs to assume the cost and responsibility for recycling them.

But new research suggests there may be a way to avoid the problem of mercury disposal altogether. McGill University scientists, for example, are experimenting with a new type of light bulb that uses electrodes made of carbon nanotubes, which would allow mercury to be replaced with water.

Courtesy CBC News

Dave Bennett

Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso