Stuttgart is well known for Mercedes and Porsche but it’s also the small but wonderful capital of Swabia. Lying in a beautiful southern region of Germany, it’s the home of pretzels, good wine, festivals and fast cars. For some people, it’s everything they need.

Things to See and Do

Architecture

It’s wonderful to walk through Stuttgart’s streets and to enjoy the beautiful landscape. Because of its location, you can do most within walking distance and in a short time you can visit expansive squares, gorgeous castles and buildings of different architecture styles.

Photo by jonk on Flickr.

Above you can see the wonderful Castle Place (Schlossplatz) in the heart of Stuttgart. In the back of the castle you find the Castle Garden, the Opera, and the world famous ballet. If you are interested in culture, make sure you check out inside in these awesome buildings. Otherwise, it’s a great space during a sunny day to eat an ice cream or just hang out and people watch.

Wilhelma Zoo

There are a lot beautiful zoos worldwide, but I love the Wilhelma because it’s also known as the “Alhambra of the Neckar” (a river of Stuttgart). The atmosphere of the animals and plants in front of such fantastic architecture in the Moorish style in the center of Stuttgart is extraordinary.

You can gaze upon more than 10,000 animals, exotic plants, and garden art exhibits as well as many beautiful hiding places to relax. It is not just a zoo but a botanical garden and a historical park of the 19^th century. The park is the size of 40 football pitches and while you’re there, you can relax and view the beautiful landscaping.

Mercedes-Benz and Porsche Museums

I can’t really tell you which museum is better, as they’re both fantastic highlights of architecture. If you have enough time I would recommend to visit both, otherwise you have to choose which kind of cars you prefer. I promise you though, both museums are very interesting just for the engineering value, even if you aren’t a huge car lover.

If you are looking for other museums also, Stuttgart has you covered. For example the House of History, “Staatsgalerie”, and the Dinosaur museum are very interesting and popular.

Karlshöhe

One of the most beautiful places in Stuttgart is the Karlshöhe. It’s a 343 metre high mountain in Stuttgart’s South West. For the most rewarding route, you can  climb up through the vineyards, and you’ll get a beautiful view over Stuttgart. If you visit this beautiful place during the day you can enjoy a beer and a “red” sausage in the beer garden (only open in summer). If you visit by night you can also enjoy a beautiful sunset overlooking Stuttgart.

To reach the top of Karlshöhe’s you can start at Tübinger Street by climbing some of the various stairs, called “Stäffeles” that are used to connect the town and the upper housings besides the vineyards. The “Stäffele” called Willy-Reichert-Staffel is the best one to climb to reach the Karlshöhe.

Shop off the beaten path

Stuttgart offers a lot of opportunities to spend your money! But if you want to have a look for something a bit more extraordinary, I would advise you to buy something from the Stuttgart based fashion label “Blutsgeschwister” (Breitestr 4) or to have a look into the fashion store with the name “Kauf dich Glücklich”, what means more or less “Shop till you are happy”! (Lange Straße 6).

Celebrations & Events

There are many fascinating events in the city. In the summer for example you can enjoy the Summer Celebration with music, food, and drinks. The Wine Village is also very popular, with the wine of the surrounded regions on offer to sample.

But my highlight is the Christmas Market in December with its small cabanas with hot wine, a lot of food, crafts, Christmas accessories and jewelry. It is world famous and not to be missed during the winter months.

Food and Drink

Stuttgart offers food for everyone. You can get typical German food but also find cuisine from kitchens all over the world.

Stäffele

The Stäffele in Stuttgart offers real German Food served in a traditional atmosphere. In my opinion they have the best German Kitchen with good German Beer in Stuttgart. You know, there are many traditional restaurants, but the Stäffele is the best.

The atmosphere is awesome, the service is great and the food is fantastic. Everything here is freshly made. In my opinion it is really difficult to find a perfect restaurant, but this is pretty close and you can get a main dish for less than €10.

Pane e Vino

If you would like to eat traditional Italian food, I recommend Pane e Vino. Two old Italian gentlemen greet you with a lot of spirit and their handmade pasta and pizza with a well matched wine. If you’d prefer just a drink, it’s also possible to just have a glass of wine at the bar.

If you are interested, one of the gentlemen will regale you with stories about their life and consumption and let you test their fancy food. A main dish will cost from €10.

Café Heller

It’s not only a café, as you can have breakfast until 4pm, there’s handmade cake and a daily choice of freshly prepared food. It’s a very nice cafe to sit outside and enjoy the good weather. Often we went there to have breakfast and then we saw the menu of daily food and switched to lunch! You can have breakfast here from €4 and main dishes from €7.

How to get to Stuttgart

It is easy to get to Stuttgart from everywhere in Europe, with most major airlines flying there. All major air carriers and some low cost airlines like TuiFly and Air Berlin fly to Stuttgart. Additionally, the city is also well connected by rail, with Deutsche Bahn (DB) connections to all over Germany, France and the Netherlands . There is also an S-Bahn train connection from the airport to the city that only costs 3,40 euros.

Getting around in Stuttgart

You can reach most of the beautiful highlights of Stuttgart by foot, but if you don’t feel like walking, the public transportation in Stuttgart is awesome. A day ticket for one person costs €6.30 and a single ticket is €1.90 for two hours in the city. If you would like to leave the center you can also take a day ticket and use the trains or S-Bahn. To take a taxi is a bit more expensive and you’ll pay €10-12 for a 10 min ride.

Where to stay

Stuttgart has a really good selection of accommodation on offer. You can stay in every kind of hotel or hostel, but Ibis hotels are perfect for city trips. It’s not high class, but it is ok and one night for two person costs €59 normally. You’ll find them in the city centre, making them a good choice for location.

Otherwise you can take a Motel One, but you have to take the metro to get to the centre (10 min) and it costs about €45. Check out the hotel booking sites for ideas on prices and features.

Budget

Accommodation is the main expense in Stuttgart. But you can get a room for low in a lot of hostels. Food and alcohol are ok, and usually a main dish doesn’t cost more than €10. Fortunately most attractions, beside the museums, are free to visit.

Conclusion

Stuttgart is a wonderful city that’s not too large to take on in a weekend. It’s a city with many highlights in nature, architecture, culture, food, wine and beer. For a different side of Germany, it’s definitely worth a quick jaunt to explore.

Things to See and Do

Children’s Museum

If have kids with you, the Children’s Museum is a must-see. If you don’t have kids, you should visit anyway.

Photo by clarkmaxwell on Flickr.

The Indianapolis Children’s Musuem is one of the best in the world, with exhibits covering a wide range of topics that are educational, interactive, and interesting, all at the same time. You know you’ve found the right building when a dinosaur is smashing into it.

Broad Ripple

Take a stroll through Broad Ripple Village, a few miles north of Downtown.

The pedestrian-friendly streets and canal-straddling sidewalks boast some of the region’s best shopping and eating spots.

Speedway

The Indianapolis Motor Speedway is the only local icon visible from space, which should draw you to its size for its own merits.

Photo by danielmorrison on Flickr.

Even if you don’t visit Indy during the biggest race, the 500, you can still explore the unique racing museum and the vast center of the loop.

The Canal

The White River Canal snakes through the area slightly south of Downtown, connecting the Eiteljorg Museum, the Indiana State Museum, and the NCAA Museum in a carefully designed route ornamented with art and classical architecture.

Just as exciting as the endpoint is the ride itself, whether you’re jogging, riding a one, two, four, or six-seater bike, or pedaling a paddle-boat.

Food and Drink

Goose the Market

Directly north of Downtown is small but valuable deli, oddly named Goose the Market. In it, you can find a variety of fresh, premium, and exotic meats, as well as sandwiches made with said meats.

Photo by kimmanleyort on Flickr.

The downstairs sports a cozy bar and some tables for wine-tasting, but be warned: there’s not much room. Prepare for it to be swamped at lunch, even if you’re just grabbing some of their famous gelato.

Yats

Yats, with several locations in the greater Indianapolis area, is becoming a local legend. For a couple bucks, you get a heaping plateful of Cajun food.

The menu is somewhat random but always guarantees a mildly spicy combination of rices, beans, and meats.

3 Days in Paris

The City Market is a historic building a few blocks from the center of Downtown. It buzzes at lunchtime, when government workers and other locals flock to the assembly of eateries inside this vast, hollow building. My favorite is the crepe place, 3 Days in Paris. You can order either a healthy, egg-based breakfast crepe or an indulgent desert crepe.

Sun King

Sun King Brewing has quickly become Indy’s proudest local brewery. The beer is relatively cheap and very unique. Fridays are a special hotspot, when locals pick up “growlers” of the brews for an astounding $5.

Photo by Indiana Public Media on Flickr.

How to get there

By plane

Airline passengers will have the luxury of passing through a brand-new terminal, built in 2008. The wings are typical but the center is a giant, open hub sure to relieve you of stress developed on your cramped plane ride. Getting downtown is as easy as hitching a ride on a frequent bus line.

By bus

If you’re lucky enough to live in the scenic Midwest, you may be able to take the Megabus, a low-cost, regional bus line that lets you travel through major Midwestern cities for less than $50 a trip. Greyhound will be at least double the price, but offers more amenities and greater reach.

By car

Driving to Indianapolis is a terrific idea if you’re planning on being mobile and versatile while here. See below for more advice about driving in Indianapolis.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Indianapolis. Click on the markers to see the sight listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View 48 hours in Indianapolis in a larger map

Get around in Indianapolis

By bus

The bus system, IndyGo, works in a spoke system. Buses depart from downtown to metropolitan locations, especially on the northside. If you’re staying downtown and looking to explore some of the close-but-not-that-close attractions in Indianapolis, IndyGo can be a time and money saver.

Biking

Indianapolis has been working in improving their biking environment for the past few years, adding lanes and marking them clearly. Biking is most useful if you’re staying on the Northside and traveling downtown, or vice versa. The Monon Trail runs from 146th in Carmel all the way down to 10th street in Indy, and is always full of joggers, bikers, and dog-walkers.

Walking

If your housing, entertainment and business stops are all in the downtown area, walking can relieve all your traffic-related stress. No tickets, parking, or planning to worry about.

By car

Since approximately 2008, the Indiana Department of Transportation has been hard at work revamping the interstate surrounding the city. Plus, the City of Indianapolis has been improving streets in preparation for Superbowl XLI. Indianapolis is very car-friendly. Traffic is light and the streets are clearly organized.

Where to stay

Hotels

The Conrad is nestled amidst Circle Center Mall in the heart of Downtown, a block from the Indiana Repertoire Theater and Downtown’s most prized eateries.

The JW Marriott is the newest building to dominate the Indy skyline. Its exterior is covered completely in one-way mirrors, reflecting a bright, blue tint you won’t lose sight of. It’s conveniently connected via skywalk to the Indiana Convention Center.

AirBnB

Indianapolis may not have the ritzy, modern houses of larger metropolitan areas, but there are many historic districts in Indy with beds and rooms to rent on the fast-growing online travel site.

Hostels

Indianapolis doesn’t sport a huge offering of hostels, but for those looking for temporary or long-term housing, Indy Hostel is a cozy house south of Broad Ripple with homely features like a garden and patio.

Budget

Indianapolis is super-affordable for visitors. Hotel prices, especially, are way below the national average. You can get a cheap meal for under $7, a moderately nice one at $15, and a fine one starting at $25 a person.

Conclusion

Indianapolis is often over-looked as a less impressive younger sibling to Chicago. In reality, the Crossroads of America sports many unique features and attractions, all at an affordable rate. For an insider’s guide on the Super Bowl this year in 2012, check out my post over on the TravelProducts.com blog.

Having moved out to Extremadura, Spain, in September of last year I kept hearing an awful lot from locals about the mysterious state of Andalusia and its capital Seville to the south. It was only a chance weekend road trip however, and an opportunity to roam the heart of the city itself, that I became fully acquainted.

Navigating Seville’s winding cobbled streets and happening upon glorious building after glorious building, I suddenly understood what all the fuss was about. Here was a city that not only dazzled in the stifling Spanish heat but also reveled in the grand splendour of two bygone ages: the Moorish Era and the Golden Age.

Needless to say, fuelled by the wine and cerveza of its buzzing terraces, it didn’t take me more than 48 hours to fall in love with Seville or the friendly sevillanos that call the city home. I doubt it’ll take you much longer either.

Things to See and Do

Plaza de España

In a city of 700,000 people (Spain’s third largest) there’s no shortage of things to do. A great place to start however (and a good spot to get your bearings) is at the centre of the Plaza de España, made famous from the 1929 World’s Fair as the home of the Spanish pavilion.

It’s free to enter and walk around the ring of mosaics, each one dedicated to a separate province in Spain, and Star Wars geeks might also be interested to know that the central bridge here was used in Episode II: Attack of the Clones. Be sure to have a wander in the adjacent Maria Luisa Park too and take shelter under some of its huge palms.

Cathedral of Seville

The history behind Seville’s magnificent Cathedral, otherwise known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, is pretty lengthy and complicated. A visit here, on the other hand, needn’t be either.

When it was finished in the 16^th century the Cathedral of Seville upstaged the Hagia Sophia as the largest in the world. None of that scale is lost today. Walk around the building, the whole 11,520 square metres of it, and marvel at its size. Home to no less than 80 chapels as well as Spain’s longest nave, the €8 fee to get in here is decent value. Watch out too for the remains of Christopher Columbus, the conquistador part responsible for such opulence.

Barrio Santa Cruz

Seville’s Jewish quarter, Barrio Santa Cruz, is best visited after a trip to the Cathedral (given its close proximity) and best discovered on foot. Famed as the most picturesque and elegant of Seville’s neighbourhoods, it’s easy to get lost in the narrow alleyways here for hours on end only to surface out onto beautiful tree-laden squares like Santa Cruz and Dona Elvira.

Among the stores here selling tourist stuff centred on Flamenco and bull fighting you can find some neat little artisan shops too.

Real Alcáza de Seville

Originally a fort built by the Moors to protect their city of “Sbiliya”, the Alcáza later morphed into a fantastic palace beset with ponds, courtyards, patios and baths.

Shell out the €8.50 to get inside and you can even set foot in the room where Columbus’ voyage to Asia, erm, America, was planned.

Food and Drink

Tapas reigns supreme in this part of Spain and unluckily for this vegetarian as does meat. Aside from the more typical Spanish tapas you’ll find anywhere in the country – like patatas bravas (potatoes in a spicy sauce) and tortilla (Spanish omelet) – the best thing to try in Seville is the jámon (ham).

La Giralda

Not the monument of the same name but rather a chic little eatery residing on Seville’s street of endless tapas joints, Mateas Gargo. Here you can try solomillo al whiskey (beef steak in whisky) with a strong glass of jerez (sherry). Not too expensive (tapas here range from €5-10), the view of La Giralda, the bell tower of the Cathedral, makes this a popular spot.

Habanita

This vegetarian restaurant (well not strictly – it still has meat options) in the centre of the city saved my bones one evening after I’d worked up quite a hunger during the day.

It might be a bit tougher to find (its closer to the University of Seville) than the centrally located La Giralda, but it’s worth it for mains like the spinach lasagne, platefuls of fried yucca and some rather refreshing Sangria. Head on Saturday night as it closes on Sundays.

Bar Alfalfa

Thanks to its buzzing atmosphere (locals and tourists alike), Bar Alfafa has not only become one of my favourite nightspots in Seville, but possibly the whole of Spain.

From the outside it looks like it might be a squeeze but step inside however and it’s even tighter than it first appears. This is partly why it looks brilliant at night when the locals spill out on to the street. It also has amazing (and cheap) pan con tomate (bruschetta).

El Rinconcillo

After receiving a lot of attention from having featured on the Food Network in the US I was a little hesitant about trying El Rinconcillo. Arriving here however and stepping foot inside the quaint old building its home to, I was quickly swept away with the atmosphere and chatter going on around me.

It might have been impossible to find a seat, but I didn’t really care when I had a glass of wine in my hand and watched as the bartenders chalked up my order on the board above the bar. If you dream of drinking in a “traditional Spanish bar” this is it.

How to get there

Just a two-hour car journey south for myself, Seville is easily accessible for other farther flung visitors with Sevilla International Airport (which handles several flights a day from the UK and Europe) a short 25-minute ride out from the centre of the city.

If you’re heading here from other parts of Spain it’s worth looking into Spain’s Renfe train network and Avanza bus routes as there is frequent service between all main Spanish cities and Seville.

There are plenty of budget flights available from the UK (with return tickets under £100) while train and bus tickets within Spain (depending on the point of departure) generally cost around €20-30 one-way.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Seville. Click on the markers to see the sight listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View 48 hours in Seville in a larger map

Get around in Seville

Despite its large size, everything worth seeing in Seville is condensed into the centre of the city with most attractions in easy walking distance of each other. A word of warning though: head in the Sevillian summer and walking far will be the last thing on your mind.

Thankfully the city’s bus and metro system is cheap and easy to ride and tickets can be purchased at kiosks and stations all around Seville. Just recently the tram system has expanded to more sites in the city too.

Where to stay

Seville has plenty of cool hostels to stay for a couple of nights with most centrally located and easily accessible from the airport, bus and train stations.

The Garden Backpacker

A friend recommended Garden Backpacker to me but browse the net and you’ll find plenty of other rave reviews about this place. Located in Santa Cruz, this hostel is in the heart of the action and features really cheap dorm stays (€8-10 a night – privates around €20) as well as a free daily walking tour. An excellent chill out hostel with a very relaxed and friendly vibe – oh and make sure you try the free sangria!

Hotel Abanico

A traditional Andalusian hotel, Hotel Abanico is a comfortable and decently priced place to stay very close to the Cathedral, the Alcáza and Santa Cruz.

There are no dorm options here but a shared four room private costs around €17 per person per night with a private single ensuite ranging from €40-50. Features a free coffee shop and wifi making it a great low-key option if you’re looking to escape the hostel vibe.

Budget

Fortunately Seville is a bit cheaper than Madrid and Barcelona, with most landmarks cheaper to enter. You can save money here by visiting in the cooler months and walking, rather than riding on public transport, around the city.

The biggest expense in Seville is most likely to be food and drink (yet restaurants and bars here are still a fraction cheaper than Spain’s bigger cities). You can save yourself some pennies by filling up on hostel or hotel breakfasts (many of these are included in the room cost) and buying lunch at supermarkets like Dia or M.A.S.

Conclusion

It’s hard not to visit Seville and not want to come back. The city’s fantastic architecture, buzzing bar scene and baking sun make this, in my opinion, an incredibly underrated world city that few people take the time to discover.

I loved it so much here – and felt my 48 hours so short – that I’ve decided to relocate to Andalusia myself so that I can visit the city a lot more often!

Not just in everyday life in London, but also to help me plan and manage my travels. Following on from my review of the ASUS Eee Pad Slider, I took on another bit of travel kit to see how it fairs in the wild.

What the Lumia does great

Running on Microsoft’s Windows Phone 7.5, the Lumia 800 is the first Nokia phone to come to market with this OS. This means it benefits from the great People centric features and usability improvements that make up this operating system designed to challenge Google’s Android and Apple’s iOS.

From the People hub, you can see everything your friends on Twitter, Facebook and Linkedin have been up to and reply to them or retweet them. It also keeps a record of your most frequent contacts so you can easily call them, message them or tweet them.

The maps function on the Lumia works pretty bloody well also. It’s provided by Bing Maps, and the amount of detail you can bring up is quite impressive. Everything from building names, suburb names, tube lines etc can all be viewed. And I like the way that when you search for an address it zooms out from your current location, pans across the map and then zooms in on the address for you. Very slick.

What makes the Lumia awesome for travel

After getting this puppy home the first thing I did was loaded up the Marketplace and started getting my usual slew of apps on the go. I installed the London Travel app first, so that I could find my way home from the various pubs around town I tend to frequent.

This app does a really good job of navigating the maze that can sometimes be Transport for London. It not only plans transport routes around the city but also things like nearby bus stops/train stations, departure boards for buses and how much you have left on your Oyster card. Pretty nifty and actually better than any other London travel app I’ve used before.

Being me, I need TripIt. It makes keeping track of flights and accommodation a cinch. There’s a Windows Phone version of their app and it works just great, showing everything you need to make sure you get to Gatwick in time.

Need to know how many Polish Zloty you can get for £100 for the weekend? The XE currency app has you sorted, meaning you’ll never get ripped by a taxi driving telling you “twenty, very good price” again.

Having friends back in Australia, I’m constantly checking the time to find out if they’re up and about to chat to. The world clock app on Windows Phone has actually made the task of telling the time into a bit of a fun, globetrotting exercise. You put your cities in and they’re then plotted on a world map. As you flick through the cities, the map moves and centres on that location. Very well done.

What the Lumia does not so great

Unfortunately this phone doesn’t quite hit all the marks, and there were a few things that stopped me being totally in love with it. The biggest being battery life. It went dead on me by 11pm one Friday night and because this phone isn’t ubiquitous, no one I was with had a charger. Even just sitting in my pocket all day at work, it ate up all the juice. Not sure if an update is coming for the phone to fix this or not.

I’m a huge user of Instagram on iPhone. It’s the best photo sharing app around and I am totally attached to it’s filters, sharing to twitter/Facebook, etc. I never took as many photos on my phone as I do now before Instagram. Suffice to say, there’s no Instagram on Windows Phone. I know this is just an app ecosystem thing and it’ll get there eventually, but right now it’s an adoption blocker for me.

The integration of twitter right into the phone works great. Being able to sync your numbers to twitter users and being notified of mentions in the Me hub is great. Only thing is if you are mentioned in a tweet with a lot of other people, you can’t reply to all, the phone only let’s you reply to the person that tweeted you. As someone whose social life is heavily on twitter, this made me cringe a bit.

I’m a huge music fan (those albums above aren’t mine mind you, as if Shirley Bassey), and the fact that the earphones that come with the Lumia 800 don’t have volume control or the ability to skip tracks was a real pain. I’d have to take the phone out of my pocket and manually change the volume.

Could I replace my iPhone?

I’m so far invested in the iOS platform and accustomed to the iPhone that I’m sorry to say, I wouldn’t be able to replace it with the Lumia 800. I really want to, because Windows Phone is a beautiful interface. But I’m used to having a silent switch on my iPhone. I’m used to being able to adjust volume and I need Instagram, so swapping to the Lumia was out of the question for me.

Final Thoughts

All round, it’s a damn good smartphone. The screen is glossy, clear and displays everything amazingly well. The interface is easy to use and is super intuitive. In terms of keeping your travels hassle free, it ticks all the boxes and would easily see you through a trip.

For a light iPhone user or someone with a Blackberry (let’s face it, they’re rubbish), this phone would be a sensational alternative. It’ll keep you up to speed on Facebook and not lost on the Tube, all at the same time looking the piece for the dapper lad or lass about town.

On our recent trip to Beirut with bmi, we got the opportunity to drive 1.5 hours out of the city to survey this super impressive site of Roman ruins and as you ascend the steps and below the towering columns, the sheer size of this place starts to become apparent. The ruins of Heliopolis (as the Romans called it – Sun City) in Baalbek were the site of massive temples dedicated to the gods Jupiter and Bacchus and date back to the 2nd century AD.

Unlike a lot of other Roman ruins throughout Europe that are merely stones scattered about the place, you actually get a feel for how everything looked as you walk through the remains of the hexagonal forecourt that opens up into the Great Court, as seen below.

The Great Court is the wide open space in front of the Temple of Jupiter and is dotted with stones the size of telephone boxes etched with ancient swirling carvings and columns both upright and toppled. You make your way around and then up the wide, broken and uneven stone steps to ascend into the remains of the Temple of Jupiter.

It’s now that you survey the expansive foundation of what was the pinnacle of dedication to the god of Jupiter. The six Corinthian pillars still standing from the temple tower over you some 20 metres, and you can picture in your mind how they surrounded the temple, casting an imposing shadow over Heliopolis. Interesting fact, eight of these columns were disassembled in the 6th century and sent to Istanbul (then Constantinople) to build the Hagia Sophia. It always blows me away how far flung the Roman Empire was.

Peering out over the ledge between the columns, you get an eyeful of the surprising completeness of Jupiter’s neighbour, the Temple of Bacchus. Looking over at it and watching the other visitors gingerly navigate the outside of it makes you think “phwoar, how do we get over there I want to go traipsing around in THAT thing!”

I had seen my fair share of Roman ruins in London and a few in Beirut itself, but seeing something this big, intact, really got me excited. It was like everything you see in history books about Ancient Rome. It just blew me away how big it was and the superb condition it was in.

The sheer size of the temple floors you as your walk inside it. The walls are so exquisitely decorated and the tops of the pillars still retain ornate carvings etched by skilled artists thousands of years ago. This photo below gives you and idea of the scale of this temple.

An impression of the layout of Baalbek in Roman times – Temple of Bacchus on the left, Temple of Jupiter on the right. Image from Wikipedia

The ruins are well signposted in Baalbek and once you’ve been dropped off, avoid the hawkers selling Hezbollah t-shirts and pay your 12,000 LL entry to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The souks inside the town itself make for an interesting contrast after your hour or two inside the ruins, where you can find all manner of Lebanese souvenirs, jewellery, metalwork, ceramics and clothing. There’s no shortage of good little street-side shwarma places to satisfy the hunger you’ve worked up clambering over centuries old stones either.

Baalbek definitely doesn’t feel like Beirut, as this is a very different part of the country. It’s inland, close to Syria and smack-bang in the middle of where the Hezbollah have a strong following. However you’ll still find smiling faces and friendly local shopkeepers that can speak enough English to get you by – undoubtedly a common theme across Lebanon.

Since January, we’ve brought you 19 guides to spending 48 hours in cities around the world. Nineteen! In addition to that, we also published loads of travel tips and photo posts to keep your want for travel simmering throughout the year. So without further adieu, here’s a breakdown of highlights from each quarter.

January, February and March

I kicked off January with a post about the virtues of hostel accommodation and travelled to Venice in February for the weekend, adding to Milan in our guides for Italy.

In March, I travelled to Norway for a few days and wrote a guide on spending 48 hours in the capital of Oslo.

April, May and June

April saw us partner up with Turismo de Portugal on a trip to Porto in the north of Portugal. This was my first blog trip and I was stoked to get involved with a travel company for the first time. Whilst out there, I also visited the historic town of Guimaraes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Budapest was covered in May, and this post stirred up a bit of controversy via Lonely Planet’s twitter feed.

In June I went back to Australia for a week to visit some family and passed through Dubai on the way there. The result was our first Middle Eastern guide with 48 hours in Dubai.

To close up the first half of the year, I wrote about how to prepare for your first solo weekend trip to help you get yourself ready if you haven’t done a short break trip before.

July, August and September

August was a busy month –  packed with trips to very different parts of Europe. Early on in the month was a weekend trip with bmi to Moscow to visit the Kremlin, Red Square and experience Russian culture. Finishing up the month was a trip to Skåne with Visit Sweden and fourbgb with a few other bloggers from the UK to explore the southern part of Sweden.

August also saw our first guest writers come to 48 Hour Adventure. Kate Hopper was our inaugural writer, and she brought us a cracking guide to Edinburgh. This was closely followed up by a guide on Hamburg by Julie Falconer, a fellow Londoner and travel blogger.

When September rolled around, we published an excellent guide to Seattle by another guest writer, Annie Bettis. I also wrote about the Flemish city of Ghent and European beer.

October, November and December

October brought us our second guide from the Middle East with a feature on Amman by the superbly talented Fraser Balaam and in November, we got another tip-top contribution from Kate Hopper with her piece on Dubrovnik. November also saw us add another new guest blogger to the fray when Frankie wrote 48 hours in Perpignan.

December wrapped up 2011 with 2 very different trips in conjunction with more travel companies. First up was a trip to Glasgow with Thistle Hotels and Big Mouth Media. The publishing of this guide meant we now have the two major Scottish cities taken care of.
Finally in the second half of December, I published a third Middle Eastern guide with Beirut after travelling there as part of another really successful trip with our mates at bmi. Expect more content from this trip in the coming weeks.

What’s planned for 2012?

First cab off the rank is a trip to Tunis in January with fellow Aussie, Chris of The Aussie Nomad. I’m excited to check out the Roman ruins, French colonial influence, souks and see how the city feels post revolution earlier this year. Then coming up in March I’ll be going to Hamburg with Generator Hostels to check out their new hostel there and report back on the nightlife in Hamburg.

There’s lots more planned, so stay tuned and I hope you’ve had a cracking Christmas and your NYE is filled with merriment!

With Lebanon’s religious make-up consisting of 60% Muslim and 40% Christian, it’s a country in the region that stands on its own two feet with its own special identity, rugged countryside and gorgeous coastline to explore.

Things to See and Do

Beirut is a city with a mash of different cultures all living harmoniously in one very densely populated city. Mosques and churches exist side by side in a fog of shisha smoke, car exhaust fumes and thoughts of “wait, I can drink beer here? And I’m still in the Middle East?”. Oh yes my friend.

The thumping nightlife that supports this teasing thought will keep you powering on till 3am, and that kebab you usually go lusting after will be replaced with the real deal, a Lebanese shwarma. Prepared by a bloke that has been doing it long before the word “doner” even existed in Britain.

Downtown Beirut

As the jewel in this very cosmopolitan city, the downtown area is the nicely maintained, recently built part of Beirut adorned with fashionable boutiques, the Government quarter and the most important mosques and churches.

By deviating one block back off the main streets, ruins of Roman baths can be found excavated right next to brand new developments, highlighting the historical significance of this city.

As you wander around, you’re constantly honked at by taxis who jump to the conclusion that you’re crazy to be walking around the city. You can gaze into some of the lavishly appointed accessory stores, aimed at rich Emirati wives looking for a way to show their wealth with diamond encrusted high heels and leather handbags worth thousands of dollars.

Beirut Souks

Built on the site of the original souks in Beirut, the Beirut Souks shopping mall has recently become the number 1 shopping destination in the city. Maintaining the casual open-air experience of a traditional Middle Eastern souk, it’s a great way to ease into the city before delving deeper into the neighbourhoods and more hectic markets dotted around Beirut.

Al-Amin Mosque

Without a doubt the most iconic landmark in the skyline, the Al-Amin Mosque is one of the newer Muslim places of worship in the city and to say that it is of significance is an understatement and a half.

Creating an imposing profile from all angles, the mosque is lit up brightly at night and the four minarets tower over the blue domes like watchmen standing guard over a prized possession.

If you’re a guy, you can take off your shoes and go for a wander inside and really get a feel for the sheer size of this mosque. The silence really creates an atmosphere that fosters self-reflection and contemplation.

Pigeon Rocks

A natural attraction in Beirut on the coastline, the Pigeon Rocks are named so because of the people that dive off the rocks and into the ocean looking like pigeons when they make the perilous jump.

Not exactly something worth getting super excited over, but worth the short taxi ride over to the busy area near the American University in Beirut (AUB) to check it out for yourself and drink in the atmosphere around it.

Jeita Grotto

Quite an experience this one. The Jeita Grotto is made up of an upper and a lower grotto of cavernous cathedral like spaces inside the mountain that have been carved out by an underground river over tens of thousands of years.

The upper grotto consists of a suspended walkway that starts off level with the floor of the cavern, before dropping away below you revealing a deep void below and opening up above you to become almost 150 metres from top to bottom in the deepest parts.
The lower grotto is a different story altogether. It’s flooded with the underground river responsible for creating the caverns and can only be explored by boat. You get punted deep up the river for about 5-7 minutes to observe the high ceilings of the naturally formed sculptures above before returning safely to dry land.

You take a cable car up the valley to the upper grotto first, then you can either walk down or take the cheesy motorised train down to the lower grotto. Don’t bother with the “sound and light theatre” as it’s just a bunch of still photos put to music.

Unfortunately I didn’t get any photos inside the grottoes as the authorities are SUPER sensitive about cameras/camera flashes damaging the stalactites/stalagmites.

Byblos

Located 37 km north of Beirut, the ancient site of Byblos is absolutely teeming with thousands of years of history and makes for a great half day trip out of the chaos of the city, commonly paired with the Jeita Grotto. Everything from Phonecian, Roman, Crusader era and Ottoman history settlements have been unearthed here.

Inhabited since 6000 BC, Byblos is one of the only continually human occupied cities on earth and one of the rare sites where all periods of human history are represented. Pretty epic.

Food and Drink

Now, onto the glue that will piece together your perfect weekender in Beirut. An urban culinary treasure chest awaits you of tabbouleh, hummus, the local Almaza beer and flatbread.

The two main places to hit up for bars and restaurants in Beirut are Gemmayze and Makdissi St in Hamra. Here are a few of my favourites for you to explore.

Gemmayze

Located just Martyr’s Square and the Al-Amin Mosque, Gemmayze is a neighbourhood of bars and constantly changing restaurants. I’ve recommended just a few below for you to try out in this area known for its French colonial architecture.

Bar Louie

A (very) smoky bar with stained glass windows and high ceilings, Bar Louie is packed wall to wall with locals and sustains a very friendly vibe all night long with ease. Live bands are the fixture here, playing jazz and blues into the wee hours and creating a frenzy on the dancefloor of smiling faces.

Grab yourself a cheap local Almaza beer and hit the dancefloor to get your groove on. When there’s a live band playing, $10 USD will be added to your bill, but the bands are wicked and always up for audience involvement (when we went, a random blonde chick got on stage and belted out a number with the band!).

Dragonfly

Opened in 2004, Dragonfly is the kind of bar with confident attitude you’d find tucked away in Shoreditch in London or a back alley in Melbourne. The staff are super laid back, make some cracking cocktails and are always up for a bit of banter and to find out where you’re from.

Bookshelves line the walls and pot plants hang from the ceiling in this shoebox of a bar on the main drag of Gemmayze. There’s even an old 70′s TV (you know the ones with wood panelling on the side?) in the corner playing a video of a roaring fire to keep you company till close at 3am.

Makdissi St (Hamra)

Once you’ve mastered Gemmayze, head here for the next level of Beirut nightlife. In Hamra, you can find the right watering hole for any kind of night out and then polish it all off with some local street grub.

One of the hottest places in Beirut to go out is Makdissi St in Hamra. It’s dotted with quiet haunts, tiny little bars down laneways heaving with people and exploding out onto the street and even a shisha cafe or two.

DePRAGUE

This dimly lit lounge is a favourite with students. With cheap meals, free wifi till 8pm and a very low key atmosphere, there’s a clear reason why. The menus are made of old A5 sized ring bound notebooks with metal covers and handwriting, adding that industrial feel to your ordering experience.

All the tables, couches and armchairs are vintage and the walls are adorned with local art and shelves filled with old books and records. This feels more like a rich former French colonial fat-cat left his rumpus room in the middle of Hamra for you to drink beer in.

The food menu features an extensive mix of traditional Lebanese food with influences from around the world. During my visit, I tried the Beef Beyrouthie (above) – beef mince with onion, tomato and lemon juice, flat bread and hummus. Cost – 14,0000 LL.

MAIN St

A far cry from DePRAGUE – this place is modern, features clean lines and a big open frontage. Entering in off the street, this bar feels more like it’s been forklifted from downtown Chicago than a street in the neighbouring country to Syria.

Social upright stool seating greets you inside, ideal for perching up with a few mates for a round or two while you scope out the following day’s activities on the free wifi (ask for login).

MAIN St features a ma-hoosive bar, easily capable of whipping up any cocktail you can think of. The cheery bar staff all speak Grade A English, and will surely talk you into trying their renowned Espresso Martini. The DJ lays out jazz inspired Arabic and pop music while you slowly empty out the small bowl of complimentary mixed nuts that accompany your drink, a standard custom in Lebanon.

How to get there

bmi fly twice daily to Beirut, making them the best choice to get over to the Lebanese capital and explore the country. Fares start at £409 GBP and are non-stop, taking just under 5 hours from London Heathrow.

And if you’ve got the dosh, bmi’s business class service is a great way to make the journey that much more comfortable with dedicated check-in, lounge access in Heathrow and all the perks onboard. Check out their mega luxurious seats in the A321 cabin, perfect to recline in and get a few hours sleep before launching yourself upon Beirut.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Beirut. Click on the markers to see the sight listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View 48 hours in Beirut in a larger map

Get around in Beirut

Beirut has no metro or rail system of any kind and a bus system best left to the locals, making a taxi the only real option for getting around. The good news is that they’re cheap and plentiful, but do make sure you bargain with the driver and agree on a price before getting in.

Where to stay

After a heavy day of schlepping around Roman ruins and eating hummus, you need a comfortable, inviting place to come home to. The Four Seasons Beirut makes for the ideal way to forget the pavement you pounded or the ruins you scaled by relaxing in their spa, lounging around the rooftop pool or just taking in the view from the balcony in your room.

Each room is lavishly appointed with soft lighting and modest furnishings, and no attention is spared in the detail. The beds (and let’s face it, this is the most important part of a hotel room) are cushy, soft and take care of you real nice until it’s time to up and at it again the next morning.

Before venturing out into the sunshine each day, make sure you take advantage of the sumptuous breakfast on offer at the Four Seasons which always includes a spread of labneh with cheeses, hummus and flatbread.

Budget

Lebanon’s official currency is the Lebanese Pound (or Lira, abbreviated to LL), but most places will accept USD also and give you change in LL.
At time of writing, £1 GBP = 2,353 LL and $1 USD = 1,505 LL.

A beer will set you back about 5,000 LL and most meals are around the 14,000-20,000 LL mark.

An important thing to note about cash is about being quoted on price. Always make sure when you’re quoted a price (from a taxi driver for example) that you clarify whether that price is in USD or LL. Always clarify whether “twenty-five” means 25,000 LL or $25 USD.

Conclusion

Being so isolated yet so influenced by Western and Arabic cultures, I visited Beirut with a fully open mind. I wasn’t expecting total seclusion nor was I expecting out-and-out displays of liberalism.

What I found was a country of friendly people, incredible food and so much significant history that you can cover the entire evolution of man just in this one stretch of the Mediterranean coastline. Coupled with the good weather, it makes Beirut a rewarding destination for a long weekend in the Middle East.

Most of those things are pretty accurate about Scotland, and most people when they visit the northern neighbour of England hit up Edinburgh only and then high tail it back home. A few weeks ago I got to visit a different side of Scotland that was filled with maritime and industrial history, really friendly people and a cracking pace of nightlife that sets the standard that side of Hadrian’s Wall.

Things to See and Do

There’s a few things in Glasgow that are worth spending the day visiting. The things that make Glasgow significant and have shaped it’s development of the past couple of hundred years, most notably through the industrial revolution.

Glasgow Cathedral

At a ripe old age of 700 years and without the massive grandeur of English cathedrals, Glasgow Cathedral isn’t the most jaw-dropping piece of architecture you’ll come across.

It’s very much of the understated Gothic style that doesn’t say “whoa check me out, I’m the result of hundreds of years of religious wealth” and you’d think “hmm, it looks pretty dirty”, but it’s meant to look that way. To you know, fool you a bit, because inside is where this place really knocks you for six.

The cathedral actually consists of two distinct separate parts – an upper and a lower church, each feeling a bit different as you wander through the centre aisle. At the very back, there’s also an undercroft/crypt type series of rooms that loops around the back underside of the cathedral with incredible vaulted ceilings that give you that “this is where some taboo, medieval skullduggery took place” kind of feeling. Definitely worth checking out. Free too.

Riverside Museum

Ships! Trains! Trams! This is where the story of travel and transport in Scotland is told, at Glasgow’s new Riverside Museum on the banks of the Clyde.

Here you’ll find a complete wall covered in different models of cars, a massive steam train that was once used in South Africa during apartheid times and more info about bikes than you thought you could learn under one roof.

It’s a bit of a way out of the centre of the city, but the new 100 bus takes you straight there from Central Station. The Riverside Museum is another free attraction. Doing alright cash wise so far aren’t we?

Glasgow City Centre

As far as British cities go, Glasgow is pretty bloody hilly. It reminds me a lot of Melbourne, with its undulating rivers of pavement and pedestrianised shopping streets. There’s lots to check out by just wandering the streets around Central Station, but make sure you check out the centrepiece of town in George Square.

And get this for a street name – Sauchiehall Street. I was originally like “soor-cheee-hall?” as I mentioned where we might venture down towards after dinner with a very sheepish look on my face. It wasn’t long before I was corrected by a local who said “no love, it’s sockie-hall street” with a soothing yet coarse Glaswegian accent. Schooled, I was. 

West End

The West End is the real hip part of Glasgow. Breaking free of the repetitive slew of chain bars in the city centre, the West End is where you’ll find some more unique places to spend your Scottish sterling putting away a vodka and Irn Bru or two.

Ashton Lane in Glasgow’s West End

All up and down the main drag of Byres Road you’ll find cool little vintage shops, frozen yogurt places and Japanese/Mexican fusion cafes.  Venture off into one of the laneways to find some more hidden away gems like the vintage market in Ashton Lane on weekends.

Check out the Food and Drink section below to get the full lowdown of the bars and restaurants I liked in the West End. Jayne also did a good job of articulating what’s cool about Glasgow’s west end over on her blog here.

Food and Drink

This is where Glasgow rolls out the red carpet and invites you in for a whiskey to warm your belly. After you’ve learnt all about Colin MacRae’s rallying antics at the Riverside Museum, it’s time for some eats and a few jars. And I’m not talking deep-friend Mars bars or a Munchy Box.

How to get there

Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland and is located about 400 miles north of London. For a leisurely 4 and a bit hour journey, you should definitely check out getting the train there. It means arriving right in the middle of the city with no “airport to town” transfer hassle. Booking in advance usually yields the cheapest fares, and the guys over at Red Spotted Hanky will make sure you get them.

Alternatively, you can always check out flights to Glasgow on easyJet, bmi and BA from all major European airports.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Glasgow. Click on the markers to see the sight listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View 48 hours in Glasgow in a larger map

Get around in Glasgow

Glasgow is served by one of the oldest subway systems in Europe, having opened in 1896 and only being beaten by the London Underground and the Budapest Metro.

It runs in a circular (clockwise and anti-clockwise) route under the city and connects the central part of Glasgow to the west end and other key areas. It’s orange, cheap, cheerfully 80′s and reminds me of a miniaturised version of the London tube. The only way to get around Glasgow.

Where to stay

Glasgow is abound with accommodation choice – from budget hostels to expansive opulent five star luxury pads, there’s no shortage here. But all anyone really wants is somewhere nice to lay their head at night though, right? And the Thistle Hotel Glasgow is the affordable choice that hits all the right notes and gets the job done.

Centrally located in the city and right near Cowcaddens subway station, the Thistle boasts 300 spacious, functional rooms for you to call home for a weekend. The super comfortable beds will leave you well rested and the friendly staff that will make you feel welcome to no end.

Breakfast here is an occasion in itself. Served in the large Annlann Restaurant, a never ending buffet of Scottish delights welcomes you each morning. I stuffed myself silly with eggs, bacon, beans, hash browns and toast both mornings –  and because you’re in Scotland, you can sample some haggis for breakfast as well, tick that one off!

They’ve got a great winter break deal going on right now. For just £39 per room per night, you can stay in the centre of Glasgow in comfort on the cheap. Valid for stays until 29th February 2012.

Budget

Being a city way up in the northern part of the UK, you can expect much cheaper prices than London. A round of drinks for the four of us never exceeded £15 and a main meal was never more than £12 usually. A pint will be around £3 if not just under.

Conclusion

I must say that I approached our trip to Glasgow with skepticism and trepidation, as no one I knew ever really had anything amazing to say about the city. On the first night these concerns were totally dashed as I encountered friendly locals, bars with decor that made me feel like I was enjoying a drink in my own private lounge room, and a compact city I could easily get a feel for in a few days.

For a taste of Scotland that doesn’t centre around a big castle on a rock, Glasgow is the working class bigger brother that has a stomping student vibe, easy to use public transport and a quirky mix of new and old.

Disclosure: I travelled to Glasgow as a guest of Big Mouth Media and Thistle Hotels but as always, opinions are my own.

My rule of thumb during winter is to head south. Anywhere on the Mediterranean is generally a good bet and will yield a bit of sunshine and at least a few degrees warmer than everywhere else. Based on my research, here’s a selection of cities I’ll be looking to hit up for cheap holidays during 2012 once the duvet/doona/blanket (depending on where you hail from) and couch starts to look like a better option.

Barcelona

A timeless classic. Home of the street performer, souvenir selling gauntlet that is La Ramblas, Barca is a city sprawling with culture, delicious food and history. Sporting bucket-loads of sunshine, a heaving nightlife and architecture that looks more like an acid trip courtesy of Gaudi, there’s never really a time of year when this city isn’t great to visit.

Photo by www.flickr.com/aigle_dore

Wander around the narrow laneways of the El Born area and find yourself a nice pintxos joint for some late night snacks and a few bottles of Estrella. Have a look at our 48 hours in Barcelona guide for all the info you need to plan your trip to the Catalan capital.

Tangier

A mix of Spanish and Moroccan cultures, Tangier is the first city you step foot on in North Africa after you disembark from the ferry over from Spain. On the northern tip of Morocco, it’s been an important city for the Moroccan Berbers for centuries and has been sliced between the Spanish and the French repeatedly during colonial times.

Tangier is one of the most important cities in Morocco, and has undergone a boom in recent years with loads of seaside resorts popping up. With highs of 16-17 degrees through winter, Tangier is a top destination to head down to to soak up the culture and sunshine.

Photo by abbeyh

Nice

The glitzy jewel on the Cote d’Azur, Nice is that quintessential southern French city that people think of when they think “the south of France”. The beaches are all stony, but you’re not here to go for a dip anyway. In winter, it’s about enjoying the finer things, like lots of splendid French wine and locally caught seafood.

Nice is home to a number of great museums, with reportedly some of the finest collections outside of Paris. When you’re done, waltz along the long beachside boulevards and meander around the many beautiful squares in town before settling into a tucked away cafe for a few cheeky apertifs.

Photos by coda and sweetsia.

Nice also is home to an impressive Russian Orthodox cathedral, something you wouldn’t expect to find in the south of France hey? Due to Nice’s close proximity to Monaco, you’d be worth taking a train across to the casino packed playground for the super-wealthy as well to see what all the fuss is about.

For more ideas, check out what Timeout thinks are 10 great things to do in Nice.

Tunis

With the revolution over and done with, Tunisia is open for business. Along with Marrakech and Beirut, Tunis is a former French North African colony and maintains all the hallmarks to give you that “this is where the French Foreign Legion come to buy their cigars between killing cobras in the desert” kind of feel.

Photo by http://www.flickr.com/photos/hisgett/

Here it’s all about the souks, the mosques and admiring the French colonial architecture. For history buffs, take a train 15 km north to check out the extensive Roman ruins in Carthage. Tunis is thankfully super easy to get around in with the metro system, and from recent reports tourism is flourishing, making right now a great time to explore this melting pot of French, Arabic, Roman and African influences.

Where do you usually take off to for a break when winter settles in?

Disclosure: this post contains a paid link for First Choice holidays.

Perpignan probably isn’t everyone’s first choice for a weekend break in the south of France, but then Perpignan isn’t your average French city. The richly historic city’s near identity crisis as a Catalan stronghold in France means it has the character, food and culture to make it a serious contender for a 48-hour get away, helped further by its easy accessibility from the UK and its welcoming warm Mediterranean climate.

Things to See and Do

Perpignan’s population of 300,000 are mostly sprawled out away from the city’s centre, which is made up of a picturesque old town and a more modern business and shopping districts. Though the shops and restaurants are decent enough for a quick look in the newer parts of town, head to the old town to explore the history and culture of French Catalonia that gives Perpignan its unique character.

Le Castillet

Slap bang in the middle of the city centre and on the cusp between old and new Perpignan, is the Castillet, which refers to the impressive looking turret of a fourteenth century gateway to the city.

Entry for a handful of Euros gains you access to enjoy the views at the top and also visit the Catalan Museum of Popular Arts, which is dedicated to celebrating Languedoc-Roussilon’s Catalan history, culture and crafts.

Cathédrale St-Jean

Sticking with Perpignanais buildings originating from the 1300s, head further into the old town to Place Léon Gambetta and you’ll find the city’s Cathédrale Saint-Jean.

A beautifully crafted cathedral, pop inside to marvel at the interior architecture which features striking Catalan ornaments and a wooden crucifix believed to date back to the 1400s.

Campo Santo

Around the corner to the rear of the cathedral you will stumble upon one of the oldest cemeteries in France, Campo Santo; a surprisingly quiet and peaceful place to rest in an alcove for a few moments and remark upon the dramatic white marble gothic architecture. It is also reportedly the only cloister-cemetery in the country.

Palais des Rois de Majorque

Overlooking Perpignan from the south is the Palais des Rois de Majorque, or the Palace of the Kings of Majorca and it is worth a climb up the hill for a visit. Parts of the palace are believed to be as old as the late thirteenth century but the chunky walls you now see are a little younger, from the late 1600s. An impressive royal palace in its time its architecture has hints of Moorish, Arabic and Spanish influences. There are often art or photo exhibitions on display within the Palace buildings so keep an eye out for anything good on when there.

Before you descend back down, take a moment to sit among the palm trees outside the Palace and admire the view which stretches all the way to the seasonally snow capped Pyrenees. Though be warned, thanks to these picturesque mountains there is often a “tranmuntana” wind blowing down through the streets of Perpignan so don’t let this catch you unaware on your way down or up to the Palace.

Arab and Romany Quarter

As you climb down from the Palace and head west you’ll find yourself in a less touristy part of the old town now predominantly populated by Arab and Romany families which throws in additional flavours to the French-Catalan recipe of Perpignan.

This is where you’ll find a decent north African coffee or kebab and a reasonably priced bag of delicious baklava. There are also animated daily markets in Place Joseph Cassanyes where you can buy any kind of spice or herb under the sun or you may choose to try some of the delicious cooked market stall food as a cheap lunch or snack.

Collioure

Fancy escaping the city briefly to explore a different part of French Catalonia? A 25-minute train ride (trains run roughly every hour) or a half hour car journey towards the Spanish border will take you to a small but historically important coastal town popular with Perpignan locals, Spanish neighbours and tourists alike for its views, beachfront restaurants and relaxed atmosphere.

Walk along the sea front before climbing a few steps to reach Notre-Dame-des-Anges church and look back at the view of the town. For more historical exploring head to the impressive Chateau Royal de Collioure, a one time strategically important palace and fortress for centuries of French and Spanish royals, emperors and battles in the region. It is believed that there has been a palace on the site since the Roman Empire.

A popular source of inspiration to many famous artists over the years, including Pablo Picasso, Collioure works hard to maintain its arty air. It’s easy to get lost in the town’s alleyways, which house art galleries, and boutique shops. Before heading back to the city lights of Perpignan maybe grab a seat at a seafront bar to enjoy a glass of Banyuls, the locally grown sweet red wine.

Food and Drink

The best of two European cuisines join forces in Perpignan making it very hard to have a bad meal. Both Catalan Tapas and traditional French dishes will also feature locally renowned ingredients such as figs and olives and most dishes will be accompanied by the Catalan Pa Amb Tomaquet, finely chopped tomatoes spread in oil on fresh bread. Seafood features on many menus thanks to Perpignan’s proximity to the coast as well as duck and other more unusual poultry meats.

Wine lists in Perpignan are often as long if not longer than the food menu and will certainly feature local Languedoc wines, however don’t overlook the Catalan beers on offer in (sadly) relatively few bars (head off the beaten track or towards Place des Espanades to increase your chances of supping a Cap D’Ona Blanche). You’ll find Banyuls and other sweet wines often accompany all courses of a meal eaten by les Perpignanais not just desert and the French institution of l’apero (aperitif before a meal) is very much alive and well in Perpignan.

For a special dinner, and you don’t mind risking getting lost in a maze of old town alleyways head to Le Figuier, on Rue Le Figuier , which is near Cathedrale St Jean, where menus on blackboards, animated waiters and the finest local cooking will guarantee a delicious French-Catalan fusion experience.

How to get there

Ryanair run daily flights to Perpignan from London Stansted from February/March to the end of September and depending on when you go and how far in advance you book fares will range from between £20 to £120 return. If you’re visiting outside of these months you may need to fly Air France from Paris or look at landing at another airport in the south of the country.

Unlike other Ryanair city airports, Perpignan-Rivesaltes airport genuinely is very close to Perpignan city (about 4km) and for a couple of Euros a bus will take you from the airport to either Perpignan bus station or Perpignan train station, both of which are excellently located and connected should you be arriving by dry land. A taxi from the airport to the centre of Perpignan will set you back around 25 Euros.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Perpignan. Click on the markers to see the sight listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View Perpignan, France in a larger map

Get around in Perpignan

Thanks to its compact layout, manageable size and romantically curving and entwining streets, walking is the perfect mode of transport in Perpignan to take in the sights and sounds. Taxis can be flagged down but they aren’t cheap and if you do venture away from the city centre check out trains and buses as French public transport is surprisingly efficient and cheap, even in the Catalan south!

Perpignan also has its own bike hire cycle scheme similar to the Barclays Bikes in London, known as BIP (Bicyclette Perpignan)

Where to stay

Perpignan has all the French budget hotel stalwarts Etap, Hotel Ibis and Formule 1, and all are fairly well situated to walk around the city. Hostelling International lists one hostel, again located fairly centrally, though there are a limited number of private rooms.

Higher end hotels are also easy to find but if you’re up for something different check out some of the self-catering options run by English speaking ex-pats.

Budget

Like the rest of France, it is fair to say that Perpignan isn’t as cheap as it used to be thanks to the economic climate; in the last year even the locals have started to grumble about rises in prices now that it has started to affect the French national institution of eating out on the cheap. That said most restaurants will offer a very reasonably priced (and more often than not superbly cooked) Menu du Jour for 15 – 25 Euros which will get you 2 -3 courses and a glass of wine.

Groceries and public transport should be cheaper than in the UK but a night on the beers is no longer the bargain it once was with bars charging around 3-4 Euros or more for un demi, which thanks to today’s exchange rate may not fill you with an immediate joie de vivre.

Conclusion

Spend 48 hours in Perpignan and you will experience a different type of French city, one that provides fascinating history, a melange of cultures and delicious cuisine all with a Catalan twist.

As the fiercely proud centre of French Catalonia there is a certain je ne sais quoi and energy to Perpignan: marvel at the road signs in both languages, be amused how the cars beep outsider number plates and should you be there when the local rugby team USA Perpignan, known as “Les Catalanes”, win a big game then you’ll struggle not to get lost in the French Catalan party spirit.

Featured photo provided by Eole via flickr.