Old Tube Technology Gives Way To RAM

Running new programs were quite different then than they are now. RAM simply didn’t exist. It took days of rewiring the computer before you could run a new program. In the days of the Cold War, this just wasn’t acceptable. In an arms race of that magnitude, any edge that could be gained was taken.

Enter the Williams Tube in 1948. It was first run in the Manchester Baby, and represented a major benchmark for the computer industry. Now, instead of taking days to run a new program, it only took a matter of hours.

RAM Leaves the Tubes for Solid State

Core Memory was the first solid state form of RAM available, and was introduced in the 1950s. This was highly popular and cheap to make, and lasted well into the 1970s, even after the first DRAM chipset was released. Essentially, core memory was magnetic rings threaded on wires that ran vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

In 1970, Intel introduced the first DRAM chipset. It was implemented by using transistor technology that had already in many cases usurped the vacuum tubes. It only held a little over 1000 bits, but its much smaller size, lower energy consumption and increased speed spelled disaster for the magnetic cores.

Fortran Gives Way to Magnetic Storage

The 1970s also represented a quantum leap in computer storage. The ability to store data on magnetic tape was discovered, and it was much more convenient than the cumbersome Fortran cards. Back then, if you dropped your stack of Fortrans, you had the monumental task of putting them back in order. Along with fixing that problem, magnetic tape condensed the data into a much smaller size.

Examining the possibilities of magnetic storage led to innovations such as magnetic drums and eventually the magnetic platters that we know today. CD technology briefly threatened magnetic hard drive storage for a time in the 1980s, but eventually magnetic platters regained their position as the primary means of storage on computers.

All the same, the possibilities for the future hold that optical storage similar to CDs is likely to once again usurp magnetic hard drives. Light simply is the fastest speed we can work with, and it won’t be long before magnetic platters go the way of Fortran.

Basic DRAM—DIMMs and RIMMs

DRAM is the root type for the RAM technology that is currently available, and it comes in two major forms: DIMMs and RIMMs. Also, DIMMs for SDRAM and DDR are completely different animals. The SDRAM has 168 pins, and the DDR has 184, which means that they won’t fit in the same slots. These are important distinctions that you will encounter when buying new RAM chipsets.

DIMMs are 64 bit, but if your motherboard has a dual-channel configuration, you will have to use them in pairs to get the most out of them. Usually, you can simply add a new chipset to your computer as long as it matches what’s already installed.

RIMMs are only 16 bit components, but they run faster than standard DDR DIMMs. To get the most out of them, you will want to install them in pairs on a dual-channel 32 bit interface.

Synchronous DRAM, or SDRAM

Synchronous DRAM, aka SDRAM was an improvement over the older EDO DRAM, but it’s not related in any way to it. Whereas the older technology maxed out at 50 MHz, SDRAM can reach 133 MHz and potentially 180 MHz. This technology is on its way out in favor of DDR and RDRAM, thanks to the faster speeds of processors.

Double Data Rate SDRAM, aka DDR

DDR, or Double Data Rate SDRAM is, as its name suggests, twice as fast as standard SDRAM. It accomplishes this by making the data transfers on both the up and down tick in a clock cycle. That is, if it runs at 333 MHz, it’s more accurately working at 166 MHz on the up tick and 166 MHz on the down tick.

RDRAM, or Rambus DRAM

Rambus DRAM (RDRAM) is a serial bus memory type, and comes in four types: PC600, PC700, PC800 and PC1066. This is at this time the top of the line memory, but isn’t as easily implemented in all computers as DDR, because these computers use a parallel bus.

Memory modules are removable hardware additions to your computer that are dedicated to facilitating your operating speed. They have no other task, so they’re efficient at what they do. They are also the first place your computer goes to temporarily store data while it loads your documents and programs.

Now, let’s compare this to virtual memory.

Virtual memory is sectors in your hard drive that are set aside to be used as RAM. Your hard drive performs many functions other than provide RAM, and quite often, the space set aside for virtual memory is fragmented. It’s incredibly difficult trying to get contiguous paging files. Besides, the hard drive was simply not designed physically to be efficient as a RAM source.

The thing is, whereas the data follows straightforward channels to read and write on memory modules, hard drives use a moving laser beam to read and write. Naturally, anything that’s physically moving is going to mean a slower information transfer in the best of circumstances. Now, add this to the likelihood that your paging files probably aren’t contiguous, and consequently, your laser is going to have to move further to read and write on these files. This eats up even more time.

Really, the simplest way to have reasonably fast virtual memory is to have a secondary hard drive that starts off clean with this purpose. Before any other data gets written on it, you should set all of your virtual memory paging files on this hard drive. Then you can store and back up all you want on your secondary hard drive. Of course, because there are still moving parts involved, it still won’t give you nearly the speed that a good memory module will for a fraction of the price.

Megabytes and gigabytes are measurements of storage in the computer world. In terms of memory cards, it’s how much temporary information they can hold before they reach capacity. What it ultimately does is buy time for a program to load.

It works pretty much like a bus or airplane terminal. It allows for an orderly flow of information (passengers) into the bus or airplane. This order prevents congestion, which makes the available speed work more efficiently.

The unit of speed in computer memory is megahertz, or MHz. The higher this number is, the faster the module or processor actually works. This is why you may see processors and modules of the same type and by the same company sell for different prices. You may also notice a performance difference between these memory modules and processors once installed. The difference in MHz is the reason why.

Back to the analogy of the bus or airplane terminal, MHz is basically how quickly everyone can potentially walk. They can move faster, but they may not necessarily get to where they’re supposed to be any quicker. Let’s say that you go to a bus station and it’s crowded. Your terminal’s on the other side of the station.

With a bit more space in the room, you can come closer to your maximum walking speed, right? This is precisely what megabytes and gigabytes provide for your computer’s information: a little elbow room and the ability to possibly run instead of walk.

If you’re running Windows Vista or Windows 7, you don’t have to install anything new on your computer or buy anything. You already have the Windows Memory Diagnostics tool that you can access by clicking on Start and typing “memory” in the Run box. You will then have two options: either restart your computer now and run the tool, or run the tool on your next restart.

If you’re not running Vista or Windows 7, the best free software options are Memtest86 and DocMemory. Between the two, Memtest86 is the best, and it’s an x86 compatible memory tester. That is to say that it detects 32 bit PC memory platforms. If you’re a computer user and don’t have any intention of starting a computer repair shop, these are your best options.

If you are thinking about going into business as a repair technician, there are several commercial software and hardware products to choose from. If you’re going into business, they’re well worth the cost to buy them, they tend to work much more quickly than the free software. Memorytesters, PC-Doctor, PC Diagnostics and Ultra-X are at the top of the list.

This is where computer memory finder programs like ours are useful. Basically, when you shop at a computer memory website such as ours, all you have to know is the manufacturer, make and model of your computer. An example would be Dell (manufacturer) Dimension (make or product) 4600 (model).

This information is prominently displayed on your computer’s case. If you’re running a desktop computer, it’s all right next to your power button. If you’re running a laptop, it’s usually prominently displayed somewhere near your keyboard. You can jot this information on a piece of scrap paper so when you shop, you don’t have to search for it.

Then, all you have to do is enter the manufacturer, make and model in the appropriate fields in the computer memory finder tool on the website. Then, it will automatically find a list of compatible memory upgrades for you from their database. All you have to do then is decide which one you want.

There are some computer memory websites that have the option to automatically scan your computer and do all the legwork for you. They do this by downloading a cookie on your computer which can seek the information you need to choose compatible upgrades. Usually there isn’t a malware threat associated with this process, but it’s not compatible with all operating systems. Often, an automatic memory finder is only compatible with a Windows OS or a Mac OS, and hardly ever will you find one for Linux based operating systems.

Simply put, partitioning your hard drive keeps your personal files separate from your operating system files, making it much easier to retrieve them if your OS craps out or if you want to change to an Open Source Operating System. It also naturally organizes your file structure so that you can easily back up your files and so that they’re not in the way when Windows is looking for operating files.

Windows Operating Systems come with the ability to partition your hard drive built in, but honestly, it’s quicker and easier if you use a third party disk-partitioning program if you’re running XP. Windows Vista allows you to create new partitions (called “volumes”) pretty easily with the Disk Management utility. Just press the Windows key, type in diskmgmt.msc and press Enter to open. Click on an existing volume and select Shrink Volume. Then you can pick what size your new volumes are going to be.

If you’re still running XP, the free option is Partition Logic by Andy McLaughlin. Otherwise, you will want to use Norton’s PartitionMagic or Acronis’s Disk Director. If you’re truly feeling adventurous, you can reinstall Windows and partition it during the set up. The thing is, between the install and about 8 hours of updating, restarting, etc., the time you spend really isn’t worth it. Well, I suppose you could claim a small amount of geek cred for doing it that way.

• No Beep or activity—lack of power (unplugged), loose card or wiring short.
• 1 Short Beep—Computer is fine, POST test normal.
• 2 Short Beeps—POST test error, error code will be displayed on screen.
• Continuous, Long Beep—lack of power, wiring short or loose card.
• Repetitive, Short Beeps—lack of power, wiring short or loose card.
• 1 Long and 1 Short Beep—Motherboard problem.
• 1 Long and 2 Short Beeps—Video display problem (mono/CGA display).
• 1 Long and 3 Short Beeps—Video display problem (EGA).
• 3 Long Beeps—Keyboard or Keyboard card problem.
• 1 Beep and Blank or Garbled Display—Video display problem.

In terms of what you as the consumer can deal with, the first 5 beep codes are what you should be most interested in. With the codes involving lack of power, the first thing you should do is make sure that your computer is firmly plugged in. You should also make sure that your video and memory cards are firmly plugged in to the motherboard. If these actions don’t fix the problem, you may have to replace the power cable or other wires in your computer.

The two Short Beeps beep code can vary greatly as to whether you can handle it or not. RAM issues fall under this category, but so do a great number of other issues that you possibly don’t have the skills, tools or facilities to deal with.

As to the rest of the beep codes, they signify one of two things. Either you will have to take your computer to the shop, or you might have to prepare to buy a new computer. The choice here depends on if your computer is still under warranty. Replacing a motherboard, for instance, can be more expensive than buying a new computer if it isn’t under warranty.

Looking at Intel’s Offerings

Intel became famous for its Pentium and later its Celeron processors. Currently, Intel’s top offerings are the Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition for desktops and the 2nd Generation Intel Core i7 Mobile Processor Extreme Edition.

Respectively, they offer up to 3.73 GHz (with the TurboBoost technology working) of processing speed for the desktop and 2.0 GHz for the laptop. Of course, they’re going to cost more than their other available processors, but the difference in speed will show a major improvement in your processing speed.

Looking at AMD’s Offerings

The current top of the line product from AMD is the Athlon II x4 processor for desktop and the E350 APU for notebooks. The processing speeds for these processors are 3.1 GHz for the Athlong II x4 and 1.6 GHz for the E350. Again, these are the current top-shelf processors, so an upgrade will probably show a significant change in your operating speed, but they’re going to cost you extra.

Comparing the Two Manufacturers

Ultimately, the choice you make between these computer processor manufacturers will depend largely on a number of factors beyond their processing speed. By and large, though, Intel is still the top pick in terms of overall performance and speed.

Here is a list of AMI’s beep codes and a brief description of what they each mean. If you saw my previous post on beep codes, you know that they’re a diagnostic tool that operates early in the computer’s booting process.

• 1 short beep is a DRAM refresh failure
• 2 short beeps is a parity circuit failure
• 3 short beeps is a Base 64K RAM failure
• 4 short beeps is a system timer failure
• 5 short beeps is a processor failure
• 6 short beeps is a keyboard controller gate A20 failure
• 7 short beeps is a virtual mode exception problem
• 8 short beeps is a display memory read/write test fail
• 9 short beeps is a ROM BIOS checksum failure
• 10 short beeps is a CMOS shutdown read/write failure
• 11 short beeps is a cache memory problem
• 1 long and 3 short beeps is a conventional/extended memory failure
• 1 long and 8 short beeps is a display/retrace test failure

Now, I’m sure that after you’ve read this, you’re thinking, “What can I do with this?” I wouldn’t recommend in most cases that you try to actually repair what’s causing the errors. Most computer boards are too sensitive for untrained users to work on. What you can do, though, is figure out how much it’s going to cost you to fix it.

The beep codes that are RAM related mean that you will have to buy a new RAM card and install it. Piece of cake, you lucky dog—head over to 4allmemory.com and you’ll be on your way. The rest mean ultimately that there’s a problem with your computer’s motherboard. In cases such as this, it’s best that you let a technician fix it, if it’s under warranty. If it’s not under warranty, you are in most cases better off buying a new computer.