60 Trips Kayaking Puget Sound & the San Juans Islands by Rob Casey

Trip #26 - Skagit River Delta - La Connor

2012-02-20T11:42:00.000-08:00

The Skagit River Delta chapter is quite extensive and includes Goat and Ika Islands, La Connor, and several river channels to the south. Here's an image of the Rainbow Bridge in La Connor. There's a new Cascadia Marine Trail campsite just below the bridge on the right (or east) side in Pioneer Park. Also below the bridge is the only easy water access via a boat ramp in La Connor. For more info on the campsite check out www.wwta.org.

La Connor is a great place to grab a bite, a beer, and/or stock up for a trip while in town.

The image below of the wire fish sculpture is in the town of La Connor. We couldn't find any info on whether it's ok to launch there. The current rips through there on big exchanges and it's most often used by commercial fishermen.

Trip #28 - Deception Pass State Park

2012-02-17T18:13:00.000-08:00

Only 1.5 hours from Seattle, Deception Pass State Park is one of my favorite destinations. It's known for it's swift tidal current and rapids which squeeze through a narrow a canyon with an large rock island in the middle. Currents can run up to 8 knots and changes directions a few times a day. River like features such as whirlpools, eddylines, standing waves, and boils draw experienced paddlers, clubs, and kayak schools to the pass to learn and enjoy the water.

DP as we call it, also has varied terrain which can appeal to paddlers of all skill levels. Not far from the fast curent areas are protected coves and bays, pocket beaches, caves, extensive kelp beds, rock formations, and sandy beaches. One can paddle in the park without ever sensing any current or difficult paddlling. I love to take my SUP there and when lucky surf up to 5' standing waves in Canoe Pass on the ebb at lower tides. The waves build when strong NW swell coming in from the Strait of Juan de Fuca collides with the ebb current in the pass.

Most common put-ins are Bowman Bay and Cornet Bay. Both are protected launches each with their own features. Those wanting to travel through the pass or play in the rapids use a Current Table to determine the best time to travel, which launch to use, etc. For example, if the current is flooding (coming in) but will taper off by noon, you'll launch at Bowman Bay, take the flood through the pass and when the current tapers off and begins to ebb (going out) you'd take the current back out towards Bowman Bay.

Terms to know:
Ebb: outgoing current
Flood: incoming current
Slack: period of little or no current in between each cycle. Lasts 5-30 minutes.
Current Tables: Find online or in print in most tide table books. Sample Here.

Tip: If launching from Bowman Bay, portage over the sandy isthmus on the south side of the bay to more easily access the current below Canoe Pass.

Here's a few images from less common perspectives in the pass.

Trip #23 Hood Canal - Quilcene

2012-02-16T14:56:00.000-08:00

Located within an hour of Seattle, Hood Canal is known for its' oysters, quiet beaches, epic views of the Olympic Mountains, and tiny towns such as Lilliwaup, Brinnon, and Potlatch. Quilcene on the northwest end is tucked inside two bays - Dabob and Quilcene Bays. Most often, the water is calm. Mudflats empty at low tides requiring the paddler to plan their route prior to departure.

From Quilcene, launch from the Herb Beck Marina south of town, or from the Pt Whitney Shellfish Labs beach. The Pt Whitney beach is strewn with oysters. I once saw a guy trying to get in his newly built wood strip kayak in a few feet of water to avoid scratching the hull. Another method is to bring along those foam pool noodles to launch on if this is an issue for you. I'd recommend booties or shoes while walking on the beach.

Beach Launch from the Herb Beck Marina.

Low Tides & Mudflats of Puget Sound

2012-02-13T11:43:00.000-08:00

In a 2/12 posting on my paddling blog Stoke Magazine titled "9 Tips for Paddling Safely wth Tides," I offered tips on how to avoid getting stuck in mudflats on low tides. Below is a list of areas in and around Puget Sound which are worth paying attention to if you're planning on paddling there.

General rule of thumb if planning of paddling in these areas - find out the minimum tide level to safely paddle there and launch on a rising tide.

South Sound -
There are quite a few inlets, bays, and coves here which completely dry out during lower tides. This is only a short list..
- Nisqually Reach / Delta, Trip #4.
- Woodward Bay (inside Henderson Inlet), Trip #3.
- Eld Inlet, Trip #2.
- Kopachuck State Park & Cutts Island, Trip #7.
- Gig Harbor, Trip #9

Mid Sound -
- Eagle Harbor / Bainbridge, Trip #13 & 14.
- Duwamish Waterway, Trip #16.
- Everett Harbor, Trip #21.
- Central Hood Canal, Trip 23 (mostly river mouths - Hamma Hamma, Dosewallips, etc).

North Sound -
- Skagit River Delta, Trip #26.
- Deception Pass State Park, Trip #28 (Cornet Bay, Bowman Bay).
- Chuckanut Bay, Trip #31 (Larabee St Park south.)
- Padilla Bay.
- Warm Beach (between Camano Island and the mainland).
- Lummi Island north to Sandy Point and south near Eliza Island.

Olympic Peninsula -
- Indian Island, Trip #34 (southern section).
- Discovery Bay, (south end).
- Dungeness Spit, Trip #38.
- Sequim Bay, Trip 37, (by casino).

San Juan Islands -
- Lopez Island, Fishermen's Bay, Trip 44.
- Orcas Island, (Eastsound area).

Gulf Islands -
- Sooke Harbor, Trip #54, (inner shorelines).
- Saltspring Island, Ganges Harbor.
- Pender Island, Trip 60 (various coves and inlets).

Other:
- Willapa Bay and eastern and northern Long Beach Peninsula.
- Columbia River from mouth upriver approx 10 miles.
- Grays Harbor.
- mouth of the Physt River inside of Pillar Point on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
- north of Bellingham near US/CA border.

Woodward Bay, South Sound.

Nisqually Reach, South Sound.

Trip #9 Gig Harbor to Olalla

2012-02-11T21:05:00.001-08:00

Located on Colvos Passage and the Kitsap Peninsula, Olalla is halfway between Southworth and Gig Harbor. Once known for it's strawberry crop which ripened earlier than other regions on Puget Sound, the 'town' consists of one small convenience store (closed at time of writing). We passed through here on July 4th 2011 while updating this book and were excited to see the locals sunning on the low tide beaches, fishing, boating, etc. The little inlet which dries out at low tide is also the boat ramp.

Olalla is a little over 6 miles from Gig Harbor to the south, and the same for Southworth to the north. The Current in Colvos Passage runs mostly north, so think of that when planning a trip here.

Find NOAA Nautical Charts Online

2012-02-08T12:46:00.000-08:00

If you're seeking charts for trips, check out NOAA's online site for a quick peek and/or to download.

Check it out.. http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mcd/OnLineViewer.html

Trip #50 - Patos Island

2012-02-08T10:15:00.000-08:00

Located a little over 4 miles from the north tip of Orcas Island, Patos Island offers the boater or paddler relative solitude, epic views, a protected gunkhole, and curvy sandstone rock formations. The paddle from Orcas to Patos can be easy if the wind and currents coorperate, or rather hardcore if not. Definitely a trip for experienced paddlers. We rated it 'Exposed' given the remoteness of the island and the potential difficulty to get there.

From Saturna Island in the BC Gulf Islands, the crossing is only 2.7 miles but that's through Haro Strait which can also be easy, or not due to fast moving current squeezing between the islands.

Despite the feeling of solitude from this image, in the height of summer on a weekend there were 8 or so boats moored in tiny Active Cove. The tent on the point was huge, could probably hold up to 7 and behind it tons of camping and food supplies scattered on the grassy point out of view.

Satellite View of Patos, Here.

Trip #44 - Obstruction Pass

2012-02-07T19:12:00.000-08:00

Obstruction Pass (and island) are located between Orcas Island and Blakely Island. Sometimes swift current flows on both sides of the island giving you an easy free ride or if you time the currents poorly, a long hard slog to your destination.

Obstruction Pass Recreational site, (a former State Park) is located on the southern tip of Orcas Island and has a Cascadia Marine Trail site. Obstruction Pass has several access points from Doe Bay to the north, a public boat ramp across from the island on Orcas, and to the south, Lopez Island.

The following are images of the Leiber Haven Resort on Orcas which is adjacent to the public boat ramp.

Surf in the San Juans?

2012-02-07T13:10:00.000-08:00

For years, I've heard for San Juan Island locals talk of catching surf off the islands' southern sections. I've spoken to two longboarders and one surf kayaker who have confirmed this. Last summer a prone paddler boarder friend said he caught a really long ride on a waist high wave in False Bay. And it's not surprising given it's location near the eastern opening of the Strait of Juan de Fuca which also delivers surfable swells to the west side of Whidbey Island. For those not familiar with NW surfing, the shorelines along both the Canadian and US side of the Strait have been popular surfing spots for years. For locals, waves must be a relief as getting to traditional surfing areas in BC or WA from the island is quite the trek. San Juan Island is Trip #52 in the book.

The image below is from the SW tip of San Juan Island in September.

Washington Water Trails Association - WWTA

2012-01-30T21:54:00.000-08:00

Since 1990, the Washington Water Trails Association has been helping secure public access and human powered watercraft campsites throughout Puget Sound, Willapa Bay, the Columbia River, the Snake River, and the lakes bordering Seattle.

Trails include:

- Cascadia Marine Trail.
- Lakes-To-Locks Water Trail.
- Willapa Bay Trail.
- Lower Columbia River Water Trail.
- Northwest Discovery Water Trail.

The Cascadia Marine Trail, one of the more popular water trails of the WWTA includes over 140 miles of water from Olympia to the Canadian boarder. By becoming a member (starts at $35 a year), you can have access to their online maps, travel info and details regarding each site. Below is a the page for the San Juan Islands. The triangles are the WWTA campsites for the region.

San Juan Islands:
http://www.wwta.org/trails/CMT/campsites/san_juans/

Yakima River Canyon

2012-01-29T14:43:00.000-08:00

Yakima River Canyon is one of Wa State's most scenic river paddles and is great for all skill levels. A 1.5 hour drive east of Seattle and located directly south of Ellensburg on Highway 821 (Canyon Road), the river can be easily accessed from I-90. Driving south of the interstate, you begin to drop into the canyon within a few miles. Immediately you will enjoy it's steep grassy hillsides and winding two lane route which parallels the river. The river is also known as a 'Blue Ribbon' fly fishing and catch and release only river. Drift boats are common as are fishermen along it's bushy shores. Red's Fly Shop is located in the canyon and can assist with any fishing questions.

The best guidebook for the trip is "PaddlingWashington: 100 Flatwater and Whitewater Routes in Wahsington State and the Inland Northwest," by Rich Landers and Dan Hansen and published by Mountaineers Books. Click HERE for ordering info.

The canyon route is a Class 1 section of the river, meaning it moves but has few rapids and small riffles to worry about and thus doesn't require much or any river experience. That said, always wear a lifejacket and appropiate immersion clothing for the water and air temperature. The river is very popular in summer with rafters. I'm hoping to try it this year on a SUP with rubber fins.

Details from the book:

- Distance: 19 miles

- Time: 6 hours.

- Season: Year Around (note early summer flows can be swift).

- Shuttle: 20 miles, pavement.

- Class 1+.

- Hazards: Heavy wind, strainers, scattered rapids.

- Info: BLM in Spokane.

- Maps: USGS Ellensburg South, Kittitas, Wymer

- Put In: Ringer, 2.5 miles below I-90.

- Take-out: BLM Roza Recreation Area.

- Camping: Several spots along the river, mostly BLM land.

- More Info & Contact #'s: Public Lands.

- BLM Site & Map of Area: HERE.

Learn more about river paddling from local author, Jeff Bennett. His book "The Essential Whitewater Kayaker" by McGraw hill is a good one. My SUP book also has a solid chapter dedicated to river paddling.

Trip #27 Hope and Skagit Islands

2012-01-27T21:15:00.000-08:00

Only 1.5 hours north of Seattle Hope (North) and Skagit Islands provide easy paddling access and the feeling of being much further away. Both of the undeveloped islands are small, uncrowded, and have multiple access points from 6 different launches. The Cascadia Marine Trail has a cozy campsite on Skagit's northeast side overlooking tiny Kiket Island. During strong tidal exchanges a small tidal rapid rips between both islands which at night can be a pleasant sound. The site is on top of a ancient shell midden, one of few still left in the region. Note: Hope Island (south) is near Olympia, Trip #5.

Currents also rush in between Hope Island and Ala Spit on Whidbey Island. Friends have experienced waves there from the wind opposing the swift current. Time your travel with the currents, and you can have a fun ride through each of these rapids.

Launches:
- Deception Pass State Park - Bowman Bay.
- Deception Pass State Park - Cornet Bay.
- Ala Spit, NE Whidbey Island. (Cascadia Marine Trail campsite)
- Snee-oosh Beach (west of La Connor).
- La Connor.
- Mike's Beach Resort (Rawlins Road south of La Connor).

You'll experience the most current approaching from Deception Pass or Cornet Bay. Time the currents for the flood and flow through the Pass or east of Cornet for a free ride nearly to the islands. Ala Spit is the easiest access to Hope, with only a few hundred yard crossing to the island. There's a Cascadia Marine Trail campsite (pictured) on Ala Spit.

Get more info from the Washington Water Trails Association's Cascadia Marine Water Trail - HERE.

Ala Spit WWTA Campsite View South

Looking north from Ala Spit to Hope Island.

Packing on Skagit Is looking East to Kliket Island.

Walking Your Kayak, Canoe, or SUP on the WA or BC Ferries

2012-01-24T21:46:00.000-08:00

In the first editions of this book, Randel Washburne wrote of walking his kayak on the ferry for a few trips. In updating the book, I found this is still possible on Washington State Ferries and BC Ferries and costs the same fee as a motorcycle. The passenger only ferries will not take kayaks unless they can be stowed away as an inflatable. Some routes such as the San Juans are free on the way back so many paddle there from the mainland, then ride free back home.

WA State ferries ask you to follow these simple rules:

- Arrive one hour early. Consider an earlier arrive during peak summer periods.

- Move to the front of the line and wait with the motorcycles and bicyclers.

- Use a cart to more efficiently carry your kayak and gear.

- Have your kayak ready to board the ferry efficiently without any issues.

- You will be the first off, so be ready when the ferry lands.

Several ferry landings have public access adjacent docks or easily accessed beaches. Others require walking your kayak a short distance to the water. Make sure to scout or confirm your launch prior to departure as things change and public access is becoming harder to come by.

Nadja Baker and her husband wheel their kayak to the shore a few blocks from their house in Anacortes. They paddle to several destinations from there but carry wheels in case poor weather changes their plans and requires a ferry ride back home.

Consider using a wheel or cart system that can be broken down and placed in a hatch or on your deck. SUPs have several innovative wheel systems, see my Stoke Magazine blog posting on this topic:

http://stokemagazine.blogspot.com/2012/01/10-wheels-for-sups.html

Also confirm overnight parking info at your ferry departure location. Some require fees and a Discovery Pass for State Parks. Downtown Seattle used to have parking in lots across from Alaskan Way. But the tunnel construction and demise of the viaduct will change this, thus we didn't list it in the book.

Here's a short list of ferry landings which have easy access launches:

- Kingston.

Launch below the short flight of stairs on the north side of the parking lot. Or wheel your boat through past the terminal restrooms to launch in the marina in the bay adjacent to the dock.

- Edmonds.

Wheel your boat down the dock and exit on the left or north side into the public beach park.

- Southworth.

Wheel your boat up the slight hill about 300 yards, then take a hard near 180 degree right to follow the single lane paved road which parallels the ferry dock to the north. There's a nice sandy beach at the end right next to the ferry.

- Vashon.

Access the beach below the Mexican restraunt on the left or east side of the dock.

- Mukilteo.

There's a small beach park on the east or right side of the dock with parking if needed.

- Keystone.

Wheel your boat to the right off the dock and into the gravel public boat ramp lot. Launch into the protected bay adjacent to the ferry.

- Port Angeles (Blackball Ferry).

Wheel your boat about a half block left or east of the dock at Hollywood Beach adjacent to the Red Lion Inn. The restraunt there has a good salmon dinner.

- Lummi Island.

From the mainland use the public lot behind the store adjacent or north of the dock. Bring cash for the ferry (no cards accepted).

- Bainbridge.

Wheel your boat up the dock past the toll booths. Aim towards the left side of the road and at the top of the hill, approx 400yds, take a left at the Eagle Harbor Condos. At the bottom of the hill before the condos take the footpath to the beach, approx 300yds.

Useful Links:
WA State Ferries: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/
BC Ferries: http://www.bcferries.com/

Kayak Wheel Systems:
- NW Outdoor Center, https://www.nwoc.com/shop/category.asp?catid=22
- Kayak Academy, http://tinyurl.com/6qp7668

SUP Wheel Systems:
- See My SUP Blog - Stoke Magazine.

Trip # 29 - Burrows Island

2012-01-22T18:46:00.000-08:00

Located a short distance off Fidalgo Island and city of Anacortes, Burrows offers a quick wilderness escape. From Skyline Marina at Anacortes, the paddle is about 5 minutes to the undeveloped island. Many also appoach Burrows as a stopping off point when paddling between Anacortes and Deception Pass.

On the eastern shore, there's a Cascadia Marine Water Trail site with one of the best outhouses around. The campsite is perched 20 feet above the little protected cove well protected from southerly and northerly winds. A lighthouse is on the western shore above the water on a rocky cliff. You can land there in the rocky nook on the north side of the lighthouse.

Currents at Burrows are quite strong and friends have spoken of a standing wave on the southern shore in certain conditions. Private Allen Island borders Burrows on it's south side. Circumnavigating Burrows can take about 1.5hrs if you're in a hurry or longer, which recommended. The island's rocky shores and madrona and fir lined forests make it a very scenic paddle or stopover.

Make sure to check the current table for the area prior to launching. Wind can funnel through both the north and south sides of the island. Wind vs current can create route conditions.

Street park is available by Skyline Marina and in the dirt pay lot by the water.

Washington Water Trails link to Burrows for more info, HERE.

Alice Bight, location of the WWTA campsite.

West side of island.

Trip #11 - Maury Island - Vashon

2012-01-10T22:39:00.000-08:00

There's few places in Puget Sound where you can portage across an island. On Vashon Island, you have the opportunity to do this whether it's to escape rough waters for calm, access other parts of the island, or get to other destinations nearby without having to paddle all the way around the island.

Native peoples used Vashon's portage to save time in travelling throughout Puget Sound and by Captain Vancouver's accounts, used the narrow strip to funnel and catch birds using tall poles and nets. This view is from above the tiny town of Dockton on Maury Island, Vashon's southeastern extension.

Trip #11 orginates from Saltwater State Park in Des Moines south of Seattle, and crosses Puget Sound to the Pt Robinson Lighthouse on Maury Island. There are Cascadia Marine Trail campsites at both Saltwater State Park and Pt Robinson.

Vashon's Portage seen from Maury Island.

Trip #43 - Indian Island - Portage Beach & Port Hadlock

2012-01-03T18:47:00.000-08:00

Trip #43 - Indian Island is one of the most picturesque trips in the book with so many sights in such a short distance. The trip has multiple launches, moving current to protected inlets, two Cascadia Marine Trail campsites, and a hidden Naval base which may or may not have a Nuclear arsenal stored behind it's thick canopy of forest.

North of the bridge on Indian Island.

In the old book, Indian and Marrowstone Islands were one trip, but I find this area so interesting that I split them into two trips. Portage Beach is a new wwta site, and we added the Port Hadlock launch which is alongside our favorite restraunt, the Ajax Cafe. Here's a few pics from the Port Townsend Canal side of the island.

South of bridge by WWTA site.

Port Hadlock

Trip 43 - Indian Island's Causeway

2011-12-30T22:38:00.000-08:00

In the first two editions of this book, Trip #43 listed a causeway located under the roadway of the isthmus separating Indian and Marrowstone Islands. It was suggested that with enough water you could get a tidal push through the causeway to each side.

We researched the causeway last summer and found that due to years of barnacle build-up in the pipes, there is no way any paddler could make it through without sraping or bumping their heads while in a prone position. In otherwords, I wouldn't recommend trying - sketchy!

Portaging over the causeway is the best bet. Time the tides so they're high, otherwise you'll have 200-300 yards of sludging through thick mud on both sides. While going over, watch for traffic, local residents drive through this stretch quickly to shorten their commutes from the mainland.

Looking north from causeway.

Looking from north to south.

Freshwater Bay to the Elwha River, Trip #40

2011-12-16T22:58:00.000-08:00

A new trip in the book, I've been paddling from Freshwater Bay (aka FWB) to the Elwha River for a few years. Located along the Strait of Juan de Fuca west of Port Angeles, this trip offers on calm days a beautiful paddle through several miles of kelp beds and undeveloped shoreline. We rated the trip Exposed, as it can also get quite rough mostly towards the Elwha end, so strong paddling experience is required to do the whole trip. The one way distance Freshwater Bay boat ramp to the Elwha River mouth is 4 miles.

Launching at the Freshwater Bay boat ramp, a Clallam County Park, there's plenty of parking for day use only. Paddle east either along the shoreline or 'Bee' line it to the Elwha straight across the bay. If you choosenot to go to the Elwha, the bay provides lots of exploring and can be done so with less experience on mellow days. You'll experience different conditions there - either super mellow or huge seas requring expert paddling skills. The bay can get rough on northerly winds, and I've actually surfed waist high waves at the FWB boat ramp. Friends who guide kayakers through there for Adventures Through Kayaking in Port Angeles, talk of a bay wide gyro or eddy formed off Observatory Point on the west end of the bay from westerly swell or westerly winds. If you feel you're 'bucking' or going against current - adjust your strategy or course direction to get out of the current.

The Elwha River's two dams are currently being removed as part of the largest dam removal project in North America. Many hope the sediment built up behing the dams will flow to the mouth rebuilding it's now rocky beaches. Watch the dam removal process in real time from webcams, Here.

The river's mouth can like FWB be either glassy or quite rough. Surfers who love big hollow fast waves surf here. Waves break in very shallow water as little as 3'. If you wipeout, you're falling on knee high rocks. I've seen 6' faces come out of completely flat water off the mouth - scary! The surfing vibe here can be quite 'local' and rather aggressive, so make sure you know surfer's etiquette and can negotiate large surf in whatever craft you're paddling. A rip can occur off the mouth on the ebb - remember to paddle perpendicular to the current to escape the pull out to the Strait.

On small or now swell days surfers usually aren't present and you can paddle right up the mouth with ease. About an eighth of a mile up stream, you'll encounter a small class 2 rapid which be surfed at higher water levels. Stay off the shore on the east side of the river as it's Lower Klallam Tribal land and is often enforced.

In May, the Da Fuca Downwinder, a 13 mile paddling race goes from the boat ramp at FWB to Port Angeles. Click HERE for race info.

Prior to launching for this trip, check the ocean swell size and direction. Also check wind direction and tides. The Strait winds goes most often East or West, and in winter North or Northwesterly. Large ocean swell can seriously affect your paddle, particuliarly closer to the Elwha. Summer low tides at the FWB boat ramp can mean a long haul to the water. Low tides at the Elwha are great for exploring the gravel river channels at the mouth.

Alternative Trip: #41 FWB to the Salt Creek Rec Area. Exposed.

A few sites to look at to help prepare for your trip:
Surf WA
NOAA La Perouse Buoy at the mouth of the Strait. Check for swell size.
NOAA Marine Forecast for WA State. Check for 'Central Strait' wind conditions.
Surf Etiquette - There's several sites available, here's one to get acquainted with.
Adventures Through Kayaking - This Port Angeles kayaking shop offers tours of FWB.

Getting There: Drive west from Port Angeles on Hwy 101. Take the Hwy 112 junction (at the Junction Roadhouse) right and follow for approx 10 miles. Look for FWB boat ramp signs on your right. Follow FWB road to the shore.

Images below Clockwise: FWB in summer; Elwha River above the mouth; Elwha River at the mouth on a calm day; Elwha River mouth on a rough day seen from FWB.

Freshwater Bay going west.

Jory paddling the Elwha.

Mouth of the Elwha on a calm day.

Elwha River mouth on a stormy day, looking east.

Kopachuck State Park & Cutts Island, Trip #7

2011-12-16T11:21:00.000-08:00

Kopachuck is in South Puget Sound south of Gig Harbor about 8 ish miles. Tiny Raft Island nearly dries out during lower tides in summer allowing walking access from the main section of the park. Easily accessed from Highway 16 & Tacoma Narrows, the park also has a Cascadia Marine Trail campsite, day use, and is a great place to paddle to all year round.

You can launch from Fox Island, Horsehead Inlet, or from other points north of the park. For a longer trip, consider paddling in from Tacoma using the flood current. See more info in the book, Trip #7.

Raft Island from Kopachuck St Park.