Show your children these magnificent winged creatures, and watch their eyes light up. Then tell them how this ranch is the reason there’s not a freeway up the Marin-Sonoma coast.

I won’t be posting again till late summer: I leave next week for Australia on a media tour, then I’ll be in Madagascar for a three-week TV shoot – at the furthest place on the globe from California. Pray for me. For some Father’s Day travel ideas, watch me on TV this Sunday, June 21, at 8am on the Susan Sikora Show, KBCW Channel 44/Cable 12. Happy summer!

If the parks close, they’ll get trashed—there’s no way to stop determined people from breaking into an open space. The existing threats are bad enough, but if this goes through, vandalism will be rampant and the threat of wildfires will increase exponentially, as unmonitored trespassers will inevitably light campfires. Extra and expensive law enforcement will be required in the long run. Then if the parks ever reopen, there will be huge clean-up costs. It’s far easier to maintain something than it is to clean it up. Take action now.

Parents need inexpensive places to take kids—especially during recessions—and state parks provide an invaluable educational and cultural resource. It costs $354 for a family of four to visit Disneyland for a single day. It costs $5 for a state park. The parks also draw overseas visitors, who inject vast sums into our broader economy.

There is a solution. A $10 vehicle-licensing fee would raise $282 million for the parks. In exchange, the public gets free access to all state parks. This had been proposed by retired legislator John Laird, but Don Perata killed it. Take a look at the last year’s plan: it’s time to resurrect it. Contact your state representative now.

The land belongs to the people. Stand up and claim what is ours. In the wise words of Joni Mitchell, you don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone. Let’s not find out.

For more on the story, check out what Frommer’s has to say, based on my report on 71miles.com.

The beauty shots begin in the foothills along Hwy 120, east of ugly Oakdale (the last chance for reasonably priced gas). Spring’s green grass has lately turned the color of lion’s fur, the color of summer. Century-old oaks dot hillsides where sheep and cattle graze—an image straight out of Virgil’s Eclogues.

The thing about the Sierra’s west slope is, you never know how high you’ve ascended until you reach an overlook, like this one, far above the Tuolumne River canyon. So subtle is the western rise, the only way to clock elevation change is to track the flora: oaks yield to pines, brown grass yields to green. Then you top out, the sky opens up, and distant blue ridgelines come into view.

Granite, trees, and water—the hallmarks of the Sierra. Now within the boundaries of Yosemite National Park, I pull off at mileage-marker 11 on Tioga Rd. Yosemite Creek cascades over granite slabs, bound for Yosemite Falls, the world’s fifth highest waterfall. Lying on a log wedged across the middle of the creek, I close my eyes and let the water’s roar surround me.

At Olmstead Point (mileage-marker 37), I skitter up a granite slab, sit tucked against a wind-gnarled foxtail pine, and watch the shadows play on Half Dome. The chiaroscuro of late-afternoon on the Sierra Crest is mesmerizing. After hurtling at break-neck pace across California, it takes time to apprehend such vastness, to expand my mind to accommodate grandeur. Yosemite is like that, mind-altering…trippy.

Tuolumne Meadows lies brown and muddy. The wildflowers have not sprung—summer comes late at 8800ft above the sea. Were it August, I’d scamper up Lembert Dome and watch the late-day sun paint the meadow orange. Instead I press on toward Tioga Pass—the highest stretch of pavement in all California—and plunge 3000 feet in 10 short miles toward Mono Lake. I’ll tell you more about that in a coming post.

If You Go: Staying in Yosemite Valley is the obvious choice. I recommend a simple rustic cabin with bath at Curry Village. Most rooms at the generic-motel-style Yosemite Lodge overlook a parking lot, but they have more amenities than Curry Village. The Ahwahnee is one of America’s great national park lodges; even if you don’t stay here, come for lunch in the grand dining room (dinner is overpriced). The Victorian-style Wawona Hotel feels like an old New England inn, but it’s far from Tioga Rd. The secret to scoring a room on short notice at all in-park properties is to telephone multiple times per day and ask about cancellations. You’d be amazed how often rooms open up. Alternatively stay at Evergreen Lodge, a compound of smartly decorated woodsy cabins near Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. I l-o-v-e this place.

Hike Table Rock Trail, in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The views of Napa Valley from Mount St Helena may be prettier in autumn when the vineyards change color, but springtime puts the beauty right at your feet. Literally. Look for purple lupine and popcorn flower poking up through the lush grass. The 2.2mi (one-way) trek begins at the south-summit parking area, off Hwy 29, north of Calistoga.

Bite into the season’s first ruby-red strawberries at Swanton Organic Berry Farm, on the San Mateo Coast. Pick your own—a great Saturday activity with the kids—or buy a basket at the old-fashioned self-service stand, which also carries homemade pies, strawberry lemonade, and terrific preserves. Swanton is the ideal stopover after a day exploring the beaches of the San Mateo Coast, or while driving northward from Santa Cruz on Hwy 1.

Spot newborn snowy egrets in the treetops of the Audubon Canyon Ranch. One of the Bay Area’s most sublime natural wonders, hundreds of egrets and great blue herons are courting and nesting in the treetops of the Audubon Canyon Ranch, in West Marin. If you’ve never seen these magnificent birds up close, now’s your chance. Read more.

I’ll be back in the States this May. Till then, happy travels! —John

No car? Fear not. Take Muni to Baker or Ocean beach. Baker Beach is often warmer and always sexier—you can tan nude at the north end (pack a slingshot to ward off the slack-jawed boys spying from the cliff tops). Ocean Beach’s saving graces are easy access and close proximity to the super-cool Camera Obscura and Louis’ Restaurant, the greasy-spoon diner with the million-dollar views.

Weekend traffic is horrendous in Stinson Beach, but not on a Thursday. Sprawling for three miles, Stinson is one of Northern California’s rare long, sandy strands. And it’s a primo spot for a beach party: not only are there freestanding fire grills, but alcohol is permitted on the beach (no glass). One caveat: Make sure your passengers aren’t the sort to get motion sick on tortuous Hwy 1.

If you can’t deal with bridge traffic or carsick friends, head south. Grey Whale Cove (aka Devil’s Slide) is California’s only state-sanctioned nude beach, and has sugary-soft white sand with stunning vistas. If bare breasts make you squeamish, continue two coves farther south to the locals’ favorite, Montara State Beach (aka McNee Ranch). Though it’s close to Hwy 1, the sand is long and wide, and at low tide, you can comb critter-packed tide pools.

Southern San Mateo County beaches have the most variety. Among the best: Gazos Creek State Beach is ideal for long walks down sandy strands—and it’s usually empty. If you long for New England-style beaches, those compact crescent-shaped rocky coves, head directly to Bean Hollow State Beach, the only dog-friendly beach this side of Half Moon Bay.

Gay boys and grlz have one (fabulous) choice: San Gregorio, the big daddy of Northern California gay beaches. Normally it’s sopped in by fog, but not this week. Head north of the state beach parking lot—way north—to the private lands where nudists have built driftwood shelters. (There’s an exclusive private parking area down a toll road on private property, but its location is the province of the gay underground. Ask your ‘mo friends, or park at the state beach and hoof it north.)

The best beach for off-leash dogs is Fort Funston, at SF’s southeastern edge. When you tire of playing fetch, you can watch hang gliders take their lives into their own hands. The best beaches for barbecues are in San Mateo. Read my tips on cooking over an open fire. It’s easier than you may think.

Beach days are rare. We live at the westernmost edge of Western civilization, at the very margin of land and sea, but we get so caught up in our day-to-day dramas that we forget to recognize what’s around us. The time is now. In the words of Horace: “Seize the day! lest the years imprison us.”

More beaches, hotels, restaurants, and hikes in San Francisco

The Sierra ski resorts are open at last. It’s time to plan a ski trip. If you haven’t been in a while, here’s a primer to help you tell one north Tahoe resort from the next. I much prefer the diversity of terrain in the north, but if you’re planning a visit to the south shore, check out my guide to skiing near South Lake Tahoe.

Ski midweek, if you can. Weekend crowds can get unbearable. If you must come on Saturday or Sunday, head to Homewood or Alpine Meadows. Check the weather before you set out. If it’s going to snow, note the snow level: warm storms mean higher snow levels, which can mean rain at the base areas of some resorts. When elevation matters, choose Squaw Valley or Mt Rose, or possibly Alpine Meadows.

Squaw Valley USA is North Tahoe’s mega resort, the most famous in California, and the top pick for kick-ass terrain. Spanning six peaks and a whopping 4300 acres, Squaw is gigantic – and incredibly diverse. Beginners do well here: unlike at other resorts, the bunny slopes are at mid-mountain, not the bottom, so first timers can get the killer lake views normally reserved experts while schussing down gentle, wide-open bowls. Intermediates dig the mellow groomers below Snow King Peak, but because of the hill’s aspect, the snow here tends to get wet fast; unless it’s cold, head to the north-facing Shirley Lake area. There’s night-skiing too, down the three-mile-long Mountain Run, route of the men’s Olympic downhill race. But Squaw’s big draw is its advanced and expert terrain. This is where Warren Miller shot many of his extreme-ski movies – to star in your own daredevil film, head for the Palisades, KT-22, or the gates behind Broken Arrrow. Alas, all this celebrity attracts a sometimes-ill-mannered crowd off adrenaline junkies and poseurs, earning Squaw the nickname ‘Squawllywood,’ but it’s worth braving the showoffs to ski this legendary resort. If you’re a style maven, you’ll dig Squaw’s base area, which has Tahoe’s highest concentration of chic boutiques and happening bars and restaurants. Wear a fur-trimmed parka and blend right in. Ladies: Squaw has introduced women-only ski clinics; call the resort for details.

The stats: 100 trails on 4,300 acres, rated 25% beginner, 45% intermediate, 30% advanced. Longest run 3 mi, base 6,200ft, summit 9,050ft. Lifts: 31, including a funitel, cable car, 7 high-speed chairs, and 18 fixed-grip chairs.

Alpine Meadows has a down-to-earth vibe, friendly service, and awesome terrain, including an open boundary to the surrounding backcountry (weather permitting). The locals’ favorite mountain, it’s also the unofficial telemarking hub of the Sierra Nevada. Best of all, there’s no glitz: you won’t see any fur, and you’ll likely spot somebody skiing in Levi’s, just like in the 1970s. And because it’s part of the Lake Tahoe watershed, there are no fancy-pants real-estate developments at the base area, just a lodge. How refreshing. On the slopes, expect wide-open bowls – some groomed, some not. If you’re an expert, you’ll find plenty of steeps and glades to keep your heart racing. When it’s time to kick back, head for the Ice Bar, a tiny order-at-the-window snack bar with outdoor seating in the snow. Very cool. If the weather’s not cooperating, head to the mid-mountain Chalet instead, order a hot sake, and warm your toes by the fireplace. Tip: Bring your camera to the top of the Lakeview chair and pose for pics with Alpine’s famous, super-cute ski-patrol pooches. Alpine has a comparatively small parking area; when the lot fills up, they turn cars away, which means that on a busy Saturday, there’s more acreage per skier here than anywhere else at Tahoe. Alpine also stays open longer than other local resorts, usually till Memorial Day, but sometimes until the 4th of July.
The stats: 100 trails on 2,000 acres, rated 25% beginner, 40% intermediate, 35% advanced. Longest run 2-1/2 mi, base 6,835ft, summit 8,637ft. Lifts: 12, including 2 high-speed chairs.

Homewood has the most jaw-droppingly stunning lake views of any Tahoe resort: if you wanted to, you could ski down the face of the mountain, across the road, and straight into Lake Tahoe. And because it lies just east of the Sierra Crest and is surrounded by dense pine forests, Homewood is the best-protected area in a storm. When other resorts’ chair lifts are on wind hold, the bull wheels keep turning at Homewood—and the snow falls nearly vertically. The amenities are decidedly old-school, with only one high-speed lift, but new owners are making big changes. For now, hardly anyone comes here, ticket prices are cheap enough for a young family to learn to ski, and—best of all—several days after a storm, you can still find untracked powder. For the most atmosphere, head to Hobbit Land, where intermediates can wind down narrow, tree-lined trails, while experts can veer off piste for some serious glade skiing. The food ain’t great (bring your own lunch) and the crowd can sometimes feel a little red-necky (wear blinders), but for my money Homewood is one of the best deals at Tahoe. Note: The portion of the mountain that’s visible from the road sometimes has no snow on it, but fear not: most of the mountain lies up high out of view. If you’re worried, call ahead.
The stats: 56 trails on 1,260 acres, rated 15% beginner, 50% intermediate, and 35% advanced. Longest run 2 mi, base elevation 6,230ft, summit 7,880ft. Lifts: 1 high-speed detachable quad, 3 chairs, 4 surface lifts.

Sugarbowl is the closest to the Bay Area, making it the top choice for daytrippers. Because it’s on the west side of the Sierra Crest, it gets hammered with snow, over 500 inches a year! But this blessing is also a curse: when it’s storming, the resort has no land features protecting it from the wind, causing white-out conditions. (Remember, this is essentially where the Donner Party got trapped.) But when the weather is clear, Sugarbowl is glorious, with three high peaks connected by a series of high-speed lifts. This is Tahoe’s original resort, dating back to the 1930s, and has a long tradition of gentility, so it’s great for families and beginners. For speedsters, there aren’t many long cruiser runs, but there are some ultra-challenging chutes and gullies: the terrain resembles that of Squaw Valley, but on a smaller scale. Sugarbowl is currently undergoing a boom, with new real estate going up left and right. Compared with the charming vintage-1940s Village Lodge at the old base area, with its modest mid-century Alpine architecture, the new Mt Judah main lodge looks prefab and ugly; for the most atmosphere, stick to the old side. If you’re making it a daytrip, plan three hours with no traffic from SF, versus three-and-a-half to other area resorts. There’s simple lodging at the village.
The stats: 84 trails on 1,500 acres, rated 17% beginner, 45% intermediate, 38% advanced. Longest run 3 mi, base 6,883ft, summit 8,383ft. Lifts: 12 chairs, including 4 high-speed quads.

Northstar-at-Tahoe is an intermediate skier’s dream resort, with acres of groomed trails and an extensive series of interconnected blue runs to explore. Advanced skiers will find plenty of steeps at Lookout Mountain, the resort’s newest area. The terrain looks a lot like Colorado, with thick stands of trees perfect for glade skiing. And after Homewood, Northstar is the best-protected resort in a storm. Alas, there are two major drawbacks to Northstar. Real-estate development is booming here unlike anywhere else at Tahoe, upping the chic factor of the resort, especially with the new Village and much-touted Ritz-Carlton that’s under construction (slated to open 2009). And all this growth means more and more people will pack the already-overcrowded slopes. Do not ski here on a weekend; with so many people jammed onto the hill, it’s simply not safe. But if you can time your trip for midweek, Northstar is a great destination resort for families, with extensive lodging options, from condos to hotel rooms, and alternative activities like ice skating and snowmobiling.
The stats: 72 trails on 2,420 acres, rated 25% beginner, 50% intermediate, 25% advanced. Longest run 2.9 mi, base 6,400ft, summit 8,600ft. Lifts: 17, including a gondola and 5 high-speed chairs.

Diamond Peak was built as an amenity for the residents of Incline Village, Nevada. Though it’s small, it’s one of the best places at Tahoe to learn to ski and offers terrific family packages that help keep costs way down. Most trails here skew toward lower- and mid-intermediate, but there are some surprisingly steep runs too. Advanced skiers, however, may grow bored after a half day on the small mountain. The southwesterly aspect of the hill means gorgeous lake views and lots of warm sun, but also causes the snow to melt sooner than at other resorts so the season here is short. If you’re staying in Incline and are new to skiing and riding, this is a perfect place. Otherwise head to Mt. Rose.
The stats: 29 trails on 655 acres, rated 18% beginniner, 46% intermediate, 36% advanced. Longest run 2.5 mi, base 6,700ft, summit 8,540ft. Lifts: 6, including 2 high-speed quads.

Mt. Rose has the highest base elevation of any Tahoe resort, which means it has north Lake Tahoe’s driest snow. (But this extreme height also means that there’s little protection from the wind during a storm, so stay away unless it’s sunny.) The hill’s aspect lets you follow the sun across the mountain all day, a nice plus on a cold day. There are two distinct areas of the mountain, with lots of terrain for intermediates, but the real prize at Mt. Rose are the new Chutes, a 200-acre section of expert-only, nearly vertical terrain that opened in the 2004-05 season, making Rose the new top spot for extreme steeps this side of Squaw. Because it’s squarely in Nevada, high above the northeast corner of Lake Tahoe, Mt. Rose is the nearest resort to Reno, but the furthest from the Bay Area, making it convenient only if you’re staying in Incline Village or if the weather at lower elevations is too warm.
The stats: 61 trails on 1,200 acres, rated 20% beginner, 30% intermediate, 40% advanced, 10% expert. Longest run 2.5 mi, base 8,260ft, summit 9,700ft. Lifts: 6, including 2 high-speed six packs.

Related: South Shore Ski Resorts