A Blogography of Photography

The Complete Nepal Collection

2013-04-15T01:12:00.002-07:00

Here is the complete collection of all my Nepal blog postings for easy reference including an annotated picture of the Himalayan peaks as viewed from Tengboche Monastery, Tengboche, Nepal.

Kathmandu Rickshaws

Kathmandu Street Life

The Most Dangerous Airport in the World

Lukla - The Starting Point of our Himalayan Trek

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 1 - Lukla to Phakding

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 2 - Phakding to Monjo

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 3 - Monjo to Namche Bazaar

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 4 - Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 5 - Tengboche to Namche Bazaar

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 6 - Namche Bazaar to Phakding

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 7 - Phakding to Lukla

Guest Blog Spot - Nepal Everest Trek by Chan Suit Yoo

Boudhanath

Durbar Square

Bungamati

Video Interview on Behind The Lens Discussing the Nepal Trek

Bungamati, Nepal

2013-04-12T22:03:00.000-07:00

10km south of Kathmandu stands a small village called Bungamati where hundreds of master wood carvers and sculpture producers live and work. Visitors often encounter the smiling teeth and welcoming hand of artisans working in their houses, offering their artifacts. Regardless of the rapid changes in lifestyle of the urban population and the globalized way of living, the Bungamati locals have remained untouched by modern waves and are living the simple, rural life that they know best.

Visiting there in the late afternoon when the light is soft and subdued is best for photography and the locals are generally very amenable for portraits to be taken as they work on their weaving or wood carvings. There is also the Temple of Macchindranath in the centre of the village which provides a central focus.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal

2013-04-12T17:02:00.001-07:00

Kathmandu Durbar Square, or Basantapur Durbar Square is the plaza in front of the old royal palace of the Kathmandu Kingdom. It is one of three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Durbar square is surrounded with spectacular architecture and vividly showcases the skills of the Newar artists and craftsmen over several centuries. The royal palace was originally situated at Dattaraya square and was only later moved to the Durbar square location. The Kathmandu Durbar Square holds the palaces of the Malla and Shah kings who ruled over the city. Along with these palaces, the square also surrounds quadrangles revealing courtyards and temples. The square is presently known as Hanuman Dhoka, a name derived from the statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, near the entrance of the palace.

Boudhanath

2013-04-12T07:42:00.000-07:00

Boudhanath (also called Boudha, Bouddhanath or Baudhanath or the Khāsa Caitya) is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu (Yambu), Nepal. It is known as Khāsti in Nepal Bhasa Jyarung Khasyor in Tamang language or as Bauddha by modern speakers of Nepali. Located about 11 km (6.8 miles) from the center and northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu, the stupa's massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. The Buddhist stupa of Boudhanath dominates the skyline. The ancient Stupa is one of the largest in the world.

The influx of large populations of refugees from Tibet has seen the construction of over 50 Tibetan Gompas (Monasteries) around Boudhanath. As of 1979, Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Along with Swayambhunath, it is one of the most popular tourist sites in the Kathmandu area. The Stupa is on the ancient trade route from Tibet which enters the Kathmandu Valley by the village of Sankhu in the northeast corner, passes by Boudnath Stupa to the ancient and smaller stupa of Cā-bahī (often called 'Little Boudnath'). It then turns directly south, heading over the Bagmati river to Patan - thus bypassing the main city of Kathmandu (which was a later foundation). Tibetan merchants have rested and offered prayers here for many centuries. When refugees entered Nepal from Tibet in the 1950s, many decided to live around Bouddhanath. The Stupa is said to entomb the remains of Kassapa Buddha.

Spotlight - By Behind The Lens

2013-04-07T20:28:00.000-07:00

Peter Tan who has successfully been running his live interview series, called Behind The Lens, for almost one year now approached me with the idea of doing an online interview session. This would hopefully cater to a larger audience and particularly those people who could not make the live sessions held in Kuala Lumpur.

Here are the complete set of video interviews recorded covering my focus on landscape and travel photography.

EP1 - Introduction

EP1 - Portfolio

EP1 - Nepal Trek

EP1 - On Location

EP1 - Back from Nepal

EP1 - What's In My Bag?

Guest Blog Spot - Nepal Everest Trek (Lukla to Tengboche) by Chan Suit Yoo

2013-04-06T23:24:00.001-07:00

My very first guest blogger on the HighlanderImages Photography Blog …. and yes … I'm pleased to say it's my wife, Suit Yoo. She wanted to post an article on her experience on the recent Nepal trek we did and provide a "women's perspective" on this type of trek. Including all the useful tips and advice on what it is like, what to take, what to wear, what the accommodation is like and importantly the vital information you ladies are all going to ask about …. yes … the toilet facilities!

Nepal Everest Trek ( Lukla to Tengboche)

by Chan Suit Yoo, 6th April 2013

It was sometime in early January 2013 that my dear husband Stuart told me that he would like to go on a Photosafari trek in Nepal on 15 March 2013 and he asked me to join him. Through all these decades together he has constantly challenged me to adventures that I (a 100% city girl) would never have dreamed of doing. He convinced me with his “Now or Never” statement since we are already in our mid fifties. Being a quite pampered mid 50 city girl who is so used to good things and comfort in life, my first concern was the quality of the accommodation and toilet facilities . I was not so worried if I am fit enough to do it but more worried if I can sleep and my daily routine.

So I googled and found plenty of information about the treks and the scenery but little information about the facilities. So here it goes, my little 2 cents worth of tips and information about the Everest treks from Lukla to Tengboche (3,900m) to add on to Stuart wonderful pictures and description of our day to day trekking. Bear in mind that we were there in mid March so it was much colder.

Preparation

Training

Our organizer told us it is a easy walk in the park and there is not much training needed. Stuart and I did not believe him. I am a lady of "so so" fitness who only started exercising when I retired 5 years ago. 2x a week at home - 30 min on the cross trainer and 1 hour of yoga. From mid January onwards, I exercised 2x a week at home - 50 mins on the cross trainer covering 5.8 km each time and 1 hour of stretching and yoga plus once a week of 2 hours walking on the jungle treks in Bukit kiara covering about 4 km each time. I trekked with my 2 trekking sticks which are a life saver when trekking in Nepal. So I had 2 months of training and I could feel myself getting fitter.

List of things to bring

Our organizer told us our luggage are to be carried by the porter and is restricted to 25 kilos in total for 2 of us. My girlfriend Karen lend me a big rucksack and I prepared a list of things to bring for our 7 days trekking .

Day wear

dry fit T-shirts (or less as you don’t really need to change every day) ,
2 pairs of dry fit pants,
1 woolly jumper (very important as it is extremely cold)
my timberland wind/rain proof jacket with hood and 1 pair of RM5 daisho rain pants. If you do not have a rain proof jacket just buy the disposable RM5 raincoat from Daisho or Guardian.
a warm scarf for your neck, a woolly beanie hat (or a nepalese beanie < RM10 in Kathmandu),
a pair sunglasses and a good hat (I brought my Korean super visor),
a waist pouch to put your cash and passport (remember to put these important stuff in a waterproof ziplock bag), 2 energy bar/chocolate, your camera and mobile phone, tissues, wet ones and hand sanitizer. Better to have side pockets in pouch for small bottles of water,
Water bottles
3 or 4 pairs of warm thick socks and your very well tested water proof trekking boots (not so old one as the glue may split). If you have new shoes , remember to break in the shoes at least 1 month before your trip.
Disposable underwear and for ladies your change of bra.
Your very trusted 2 trekking sticks that can save your life if you practise using it the correct way.

Night wear /use

2 thermal long sleeve tops and 1 pair of thermal long pants, can get from Uniglo.
1 pair of thick pyjama (lounge) pants also from uniglo and another woolly cardigan
a pair of really thick woolly socks that you can wear with a pair of light casual shoes (we brought the RM5 Daisho rubber slippers that can double up as slippers in the bathroom as the bathroom/toilet floors are very dirty).
Pillow case and very importantly a sleeping bag, (thickness depending on the time of the year you go). If you are fussy like me, a single bedsheet. Your sleeping bag is very important as it can keep you clean and warm so you can sleep in the freezing temperature room as there is no heating.
A torch.
A quick dry towel (just in case you get a chance to have hot showers which is rare)
A small thermos to fill hot water.

Other comforts

Lots of wet wipes (those that remove makeup and sunblock on your face) and those for your body and intimate parts as you have little chance to get hot water (some of the places water is heated by solar panel so it is weather dependent)
Toilet paper (not provided for in most lodges)
Tissue paper
Small bottle of hand sanitizer (life saver as you may not get water to wash your hands after using the toilet)
Toiletries – small bottle of face cleanser and toner (if you get hot water ),lots of moisturizers, small bottle of shampoo and conditioner (just in case you get a chance of wash your hair), shower gel, lots of body cream, lip gloss / sun protection
Lots of high UV 50+++ sunblock for your face and neck.
A nail clipper or nail polisher just in case your toe nails gives you problems with the shoes.
Camera
Medicines that may save your life – high altitude tables (diamox), ciprofloxin antibiodics (for flu, inflamed bites, or in my case serious diarrhoea), immodium, allergy pills, cold decongestant pills, charcoal pills, panadols, plaster, muscle ache oilments, rehydration salts (oralite), antiseptic cream and maybe a small first aid bag.
Comfort food (like sambal/chilli/noodles) or drinks (chocolate/milo/nestum), some biscuits , energy bars and chocolate .
Your vitamins and supplements ( lots of people catch colds so I had 1000mg of vitamin C a day).
If you have space bring some sweets for the local children and they will love you.
A plastic tumbler and water disinfection tablet. Soak tablet in tumbler for clean water to rinse your mouth when you get into the lodge.

Tips

Organise all your clothing (day and night), medicine, and supplies in individual ziplock bags and press out all the air so that it is tight and easy to pack. Bring an extra plastic bag for dirty /wet clothing. You can get these vacuum plastic bags at Daisho at RM5 per pack.
Don’t need to bring change of clothing every day as you may not need it since it is so cold. I did not bring any makeup as it is too cold to bother with it. But sunblock is very important. Your wet wipes are a must so don’t forget to bring lots. Do not need to wear any earrings or jewellery as it is too much trouble and no one cares how you look.
Food - Don’t need to bring tin food unless you are fussy as most of the time the food served is quite edible. Fried noodles with vegetables and chicken, fried rice, curry chicken , dhal,delicious little momo chicken dumplings , some good lodges even served eggs (cooked any style) with sausages, American, continental or local breakfast. Most main course cost about 300 to 400 rupees (28 rupees to RM1), coffee and tea about 100 to 200 rupees and hot water about 20 to 30 rupees.
If you are like us who do not quite enjoy group tours, then go for private trekking with your own guide and porter and book directly in the internet with the reputable trekking companies in Nepal and they can arrange for more comfortable accommodation for you .
Remember to use 2 trekking sticks as it gives you stability and can save you from slipping or falling plus it helps you to drag yourself up steep slopes. Buy your trekking sticks here in KL so you can practice using them.
When I reached Lukla on the return trek, I was silly enough to let my guard down and eat red meat - I had a buffalo steak. DON’T as I had bad stomach ache after that and in Kathmandu I had Korean bbq meat wrapped in raw lettuce which add on to my sufferings. I ended up having diarrhoea for 3 days.
Drink bottled waters. Cost 20 rupees (RM 0.7 ) in Lukla but 200 rupees ( RM 7) in Tengboche.
Shopping - You can buy most of your trekking stuffs in Kathmandu. North star dry fit pants and shirts at 1200 rupees each (RM43), Columbian socks at RM9, backpacks etc, etc. For the ladies buy pashmina shawls 1st grade fine pashmina is around RM230, 2^nd grade pashmina at RM93. 100% cashmere cardigan RM 140 plus plenty of semi precious stones jewellery.
Do it while you are young or when your children are all grown up (like us) when they do not need you anymore. As it can be a dangerous trip since you will be in one of the most dangerous airport in the world (Lukla) plus the treks are tough and can be treacherous at some points. Remember to buy TRAVEL INSURANCE that includes Nepal trekking. We bought ours directly from Axa at 25% rebate.
Do not hesitate or be embarrassed to take plenty of stops throughout the walk to drink water and have a pieces of chocolate or energy bar or reward yourself with a cup of ginger tea at the teahouse after 2 hours of trekking. Do not rush as it is important to take it slowly. At the last stretch to Tengboche I had to stop after every 25 steps to breathe as the air was so thin and that stretch was so steep. This went on and on for 3 hours. Some turn up with pale white face and grey bluish lips. So do not be embarrassed as the locals stop to rest too. It is not because you are not fit but it is the high altitude.
If you have bad headaches in the middle of the night it is symptom of altitude sickness. Most people easily recovered from it after a night rest. Stuart and I had it in Namche (3500m) and mine went on till the next morning when I had to take a diamox pill to stop it. So do not keep quiet if you do not feel well as it is important that you take care of yourself throughout the treks.
It is important to have a good Sherpa (porter) or guide who is there to hold your hands when you need him. My very trusted porter, Gunkarei, was always walking 2 steps behind me and would be there to hold on to me when I slipped. He would be there when I need my jumper and water and to show me the safe path to go. Towards the end of my trekking, I became quite attached to my very faithful and trusted Sherpa who saved me from falling twice.

Accommodation and Toilet Facilities

Most of the lodges (except for Tengboche) have attached bathroom and western style toilets which are reasonably clean, not smelly but not absolutely hotel clean. Most of them do not provide toilet paper or toiletries. Not all of them have hot water as most of the lodges use solar heater so availability and temperature of hot water is weather dependent. If you pay more you can get gas heated water (guaranteed hot). There is no heating in the room, the walls and windows are mainly thin so it can be miserably cold. The lodges provide 2 single beds with mattress and a pillow and a blanket (if you insist they will provide 2 blankets). So be prepared for the cold.

Phakding – attached bathroom with no hot water and no water towards evening.
Monjo – attached bathroom, normal room 600 rupees but we paid an extra 200 rupees ( RM7) per room for gas heated water, however limited to only 5 rooms.
Namche Bazaar – attached bathroom with queen sized bed and heated blanket. We paid an extra US15 per room as our organizer has only a budget of US20 which is for a normal room with no hot water.
Tengboche – common toilet with no bathroom and sink shared by 10 rooms so no hot water at all and very basic room. No shower and didnt brush our teeth that morning!!!

Royal Sherpa Lodge, Phakding

Mount Kailash Lodge, Monjo

Panorama Lodge, Namche Bazaar

Hotel Himalayan, Tengboche

Sunrise Valley Lodge, Lukla

Toilet Facilites along the treks.

There are some public toilets along the treks but very basic wooden hut with wooden planks and a hole in the middle. Not horribly smelly (like in China) but bearable. Not a lovely sight though. Or if you stop at a tea house for drinks, you can try to ask to use their toilet which will have a squat or western toilet and most of them are not smelly but bearably clean. Or like me twice in the treks I had to go behind the bushes (make sure you don’t fall over the cliff).

Summary

The view along the way is spectacular. The experience is challenging and it is a real endurance test to your mind and your body. As one climber we met said "It's good for the body and soul" when your mind is focussed just on the walk and the scenery. We climbed steep slopes, walk through slippery rocks, cross suspension bridges over deep ravines and rivers but it is not too frightening as your mind is focused on just crossing and not the danger below. The food is not bad, quite edible and you eat to give you the energy. The accommodation is bearable if you are prepared and do not mind a few nights without shower so it is very important to bring lots of wet wipes and warm clothing.

If you give yourself 2 months of training and your body is reasonably fit it is not impossible as you will be surprised what your body can do even if you are in your mid 50's like us. My girlfriend went wild with the shopping in Kathmandu for pashmina, trekking gears and semi-precious stones, so be sure to bring extra cash.

All in all it is tough but totally bearable and doable and when you see Mt Everest it makes the whole trip all worth while. How many people in the world have faced the mightiest, most majestic and tallest mountain in the world, Mt Everest in person. It may be from far but we did it in person and we were physically there.

That was my adventure of a life time.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 7 - Phakding to Lukla

2013-04-06T20:15:00.000-07:00

It was freezing cold when we arose for the last day's trek from Phakding to Lukla and we all huddled around the log fire with our hot tea to get some warmth in us before heading out after breakfast. As we headed off down the trail out of Phakding we passed once again through the agriculturally rich area beside the Dudh Kosi River and the many small villages along the way.

We passed the many Mani stones, Buddhist stupas, small monasteries and brightly painted prayer wheels beside the trail, these colourful items providing some good photo opportunities.

The small villages and surrounding field were all neatly tended with vegetables and rice being grown. We stopped at a small shop to buy some water and the lady owner insisted on me photographing her and her baby which of course I duly complied with. Next to the shop a lady was busy laying out some chilli seeds to dry in the sun. There were again many large trains of donkeys heading down the trail this morning obviously to load back up with goods from Lukla.

After a dull start to the morning it became a pleasant day for the walk back down the valley. Beautiful white tree blossom and blue, alpine style flowers could be seen in the fields beside the trail and as we made our way through the small villages it was interesting to watch some of the locals working and the children playing. Everything is done by hand here and a group of men were busy mending a bridge supporting wall, chisseling large rocks by hand.

Soon we were getting close to Lukla and the end of our long trek and once again the trail started to ascend from the valley floor up towards Lukla. I was interested to watch a couple of local boys play table tennis outside their house. A small group of Nepalese policemen marched down the trail past me all dressed up in their smart uniforms - obviously rushing off to an incident of major Himalayan importance. The last section was steep but as we were in sight of the finish line we made Lukla in good time. It was a great feeling to cross under the arch at the edge of Lukla after 7 days of constant trekking over rough, steep trails. We reached our lodge and sat down for a late lunch and celebratory Everest beer and Everest burger. Our trusty porter, Gunga Rai, had been invaluable in carrying our gear in the rucksack and also he stuck very close to Suit Yoo the whole route assisting her over some difficult sections.

It was a great feeling to cross under the arch at the edge of Lukla marking the start/end of the trail after 7 days of constant trekking over rough, steep trails. We reached our lodge and sat down for a late lunch and celebratory Everest beer and Everest burger. Our trusty sherpa porter, Gunga Rai, had been invaluable in carrying all our gear in the rucksack and also sticking close to Suit Yoo like a shadow the whole route assisting her over some difficult sections. Suit Yoo had become quite attached to him and I was afraid I may have to buy him a ticket to Malaysia to continue to follow my wife everywhere!

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 6 - Namche Bazaar to Phakding

2013-04-05T23:28:00.001-07:00

After a good night's rest at the Panorama Hotel in Namche Bazaar it was time to start the trek back down the steep trail towards the Dudh Kosi River again. The weather was cloudy as we left Namche so it was not ideal for photography. People were already out herding dzo or goats, sweeping the path outside their house or washing clothes - no rest here for these hardy locals. Soon we passed the check point at the outskirts of Namche Bazaar then it was on down to the river.

The steep trail down from Namche Bazaar back down to the Dudh Kosi River was made in good time. As the weather was cloudy so we couldn't see Mount Everest from the viewpoint as we had seen on on the way up. Again we had to cross the exciting high suspension bridge, again crowded with trekkers, dzo, goats and porters.

It was then a good relatively flat walk back down the river and across a couple of more suspension bridges to Jorasalle and Monjo. Although overcast the river views were beautiful making it a pleasant walk. We made Monjo in good time and stopped at the Mount Kailash Lodge for lunch, just in time as the rain had now started.

After lunch the rain persisted so we donned our wet weather gear and set out for the last 2 hours towards Phakding. It was a wet, cold and miserable trek back to Phakding where once again we stayed at the Royal (not-so-Royal) Sherpa Lodge. It was a struggle to get our wet gear dried out, with us all huddled round the single log fire in the middle of the main room. Once again it was a cold night with no hot water or shower.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 5 - Tengboche to Namche Bazaar

2013-04-05T21:56:00.000-07:00

As dawn broke in Tengboche the chanting sounds from the monastery resumed so I was up and out to capture the early morning light. I was glad to be up and moving to keep warm as it had been an uncomfortable night in the unheated room (or freezer!). Outside the air was sub zero and there was ice and snow on the ground as I climbed a small ridge behind Tengboche to hopefully get a better view of Mount Everest and a panoramic view over Tengboche. In the early morning blue light the mountains looked spectacular with Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar and Ama Dablam all standing our clearly.

The climb up the small ridge had left me absolutely breathless - at this altitude the least bit of exercise was really difficult due to the reduced oxygen. The local sherpas have a significant advantage in that their haemoglobin can carry around 50% more oxygen than other people …. I spoke to a climber heading up towards Everest Base Camp and he called it cheating! As I headed back into Tengboche the early morning light was wonderful as I took in all the mountains surrounding this area, the peaks bathed in a bright golden light as if they were on fire.

Later in the morning as the light grew stronger large trains of yaks could be seen heading through the village, past the monastery and on down the trail back to Namche Bazaar to collect more goods to bring up hill. The yaks could be differentiated from the dzo seen commonly on the trails by their heavier build and large, thick hair. Yak physiology is well adapted to high altitudes, having larger lungs and heart than cattle found at lower altitudes, as well as greater capacity for transporting oxygen through their blood. Conversely, yaks do not thrive at lower altitudes, and begin to suffer from heat exhaustion above 15 deg C. This is why we only really saw yaks from Namche Bazaar and higher. Further adaptations to the cold include a thick layer of subcutaneous fat and an almost total lack of sweat glands.

Soon it was time to start the slow return trek back down the steep gradient to the Dudh Kosi River, over the suspension bridge then back up the other side and on to Namche Bazaar ... it was going to be a long and arduous day. Heading down the hill was a lot faster than the upward struggle the day before and soon we were back down at the river for a brief tea stop before crossing the river and tackling the climb back up the trail at the other side.

The climb up the trail at the other side of the river was very steep and unrelenting. Due to the lack of oxygen and the cold I had come down with the previous day I was really struggling for air and eventually had to relent and give my camera bag to the porter. He simple popped this on top of the rucksack he was already carrying and nonchalantly walked up the hill - amazing!

We stopped for lunch of noodles and a rest at a small village at the very top of the steep slope and before the relatively flat section that ran on to Namche Bazaar. I actually ordered a coke to go with my noodles - having not drunk a coke in the last ten years I was somewhat surprised but my body was apparently craving the sugar rush. By the time we were getting close to Namche Bazaar the clouds had come down and visibility was reduced. It was a welcome relief to once again stay at the Panorama hotel where a hot shower was most appreciated, some good food and a night in a good bed with an electric blanket.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 4 - Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

2013-04-05T05:39:00.000-07:00

We started early again from Namche Bazaar, leaving the comfort of the Panorama Hotel, and headed up the first section of the day's trek which was a steep uphill section. But the trail soon levelled off and with the bright clear sunny day and blue skies we were soon experiencing some of the best Himalayan mountain vistas yet.

Looking up the Khumbu Valley we had clear views of Mount Everest and the surrounding peaks such as Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar and Ama Dablam. Along this section we passed two beautiful Buddhist stupas. We stopped for some tea at a small tea house which also had local jewellery for sale … and I thought I had managed to get my wife away from the shops!

Soon however we were once again descending back down to the Dudh Kosi River to make a final river crossing before making the steep ascent up to Tengboche. It seemed somewhat unfair to lose all that altitude we had gained only to go up again to Tengboche. Snow lay in a few places on the north facing slopes.

We stopped for lunch and a short rest at a small restaurant at the river and then started the long tough climb up the other side to reach Tengboche. As usual there were many yak and dzo trains carrying goods along this trail but the most amazing thing was to watch some of the porters haul huge beams timber, probably weighing more than 80kg, up the very steep hill.

After a couple of hours of hard slog uphill panting for breath with the high altitude we eventually reached Tengboche. It was already cold when we arrived at our lodge for the evening and it was to get even colder during the night, dropping to -11 deg C.

Tengboche consists only of a few lodges, a bakery and the monastery but offers a great close up view of Everest and the other peaks. We had enough daylight left on arrival to make a visit to the Tengboche Monastery, a World heritage site and were lucky enough to catch a ceremony with all the monks chanting along with bells, drums and horns - listen to the audio recording below.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 3 - Monjo to Namche Bazaar

2013-04-05T01:18:00.004-07:00

The overnight stay at the Mount Kailash Lodge in Monjo was certainly more comfortable than the previous night at the Royal Sherpa Lodge in Phakding … this time we had hot water and good food service. We were again up early and I took an early morning walk in the crisp clear air to grab some photos. There was even some ice on the ground indicating how cold it was.

We passed through Monjo and very soon came to the Sagarmatha Park Head Quarters where we had to have our trekking passes checked. After the checkpoint it was a steep downhill section over a set of rocky steps and back down to the Dudh Kosi River and a couple of river crossings over suspension bridges, the first one bringing us to Jorsalle which is a common stopping point for an overnight stay on this trek.

As we passed through Jorsalle and followed the river up the Khumbu Valley the scenery just started getting better and better. Again there were many porters on the trail as were there yaks, dzo, donkeys and goats. It was interesting to see the porters use their small stick as a prop for their heavy load when they needed a rest. We also passed a small army post with two soldiers busily mending the fence all dressed in full camouflage gear of course!

The walk alongside the Dudh Kosi River was really wonderful and relatively flat so made it an easy start to the day. This was not to last long as we soon reached a branch in the river where the trail rose steeply on the right to reach a high crossing point. This suspension bridge was the highest and most spectacular of all the bridges yet and this one seems to be covered in prayer flags.

After this suspension bridge crossing the trail then became very steep and it was to be this way for the next few hours as we struggled up the rough trail towards Namche Bazaar. However the scenery was absolutely stunning with high, snow capped mountains, a bright blue sky and a panoramic view back down the Khumbu Valley to the Dudh Kosi River.

Approximately half way up the steep trail to Namche Bazaar there was a viewpoint which at last gave us a tantalising view of Mount Everest for the first time. A small gap through the trees looked straight up the valley with Everest right at the end. This made it all worthwhile and after an expensive orange sold to us by a local girl who had set up a small "orange shop" at the viewpoint it was time to slog up the last few kilometres to reach our overnight stop at Namche Bazaar.

There were large trains of donkeys and dzo heading up the trail as we climbed so that gave us a great excuse to rest and let them pass.

After the checkpoint at the outskirts of Namche Bazaar we stopped at a small tea house for a welcome refreshment. The inside of the tea house was simple with log fired cooking and heating.

The last few steps up to Namche Bazaar were particularly steep and the going was tough to make it up this last section. The mountain range to the south was stunning though and had some large icy glaciers cascading down the steep side.

We eventually arrived exhausted at the very comfortable Panorama Hotel where we enjoyed hot showers, a great meal and the luxury of an electric blanket. The owner of the hotel, Sherap J. Sherpa, and his wife were great hosts and made us very welcome - highly recommended for anyone visiting this area. We all sat round a large wooden table in the main dining room with a large log fire burning and ate our dinner to the sounds of traditional Nepalese music.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 2 - Phakding to Monjo

2013-04-04T02:49:00.003-07:00

We stayed at the Royal Sherpa Lodge in Phakding …. and I'm still trying to figure out what was "Royal" about it. By evening time as soon as the sun set it got very cold and with no heating in the lodge, other than a log fire in the middle of the main room, the bedrooms were very cold. Further to that we had no hot water so we had to forego a shower that evening. Food was simple and it took 2 hours to make dinner, after which it was a case of warming yourself at the log fire then off to bed, fully clothed and with hat on to stay warm under the two blankets.

In the morning we were up early, had a simple breakfast, then it was off on up the trail towards Monjo just short of Jorsalle. As we passed through Monjo there were small shops selling water and snacks including the popular momo which was a type of steamed dumpling. We also passed a small tailor shop with the tailor already at work.

Just after we left Phakding we had to make a large river crossing over a suspension bridge shared as usual with yaks, dzo and porters. There were a number of suspension bridge crossings to come on this section of the trail. The trail then followed the Dudh Kosi River up the valley offering up wonderful views of the mountains. The colour of the river was bright, aquamarine blue from all the minerals being washed down from the mountains. The boulders in this river were enormous, some the size of a large house.

We passed through some small villages where we saw children walking to school, some even being transported on horse to the school. More prayer wheels, prayer flags, yaks, dzo, goats and donkeys …. it was becoming a routine now.

The further up the Khumbu Valley we walked however the scenery just got better. We stopped for lunch at the Waterfall View Lodge having some local tea (yak milk tea and ginger tea) with a large bowl of steaming hot noodle soup which was most welcome.

Just before Monjo the trail made a steep decline to the river for a small fixed bridge crossing and here we encountered a large train of donkeys taking bottles of gas up the trail. There were a few small stone huts at the river next to the bridge which made for a good photograph. Once we climbed up the other side negotiating the steep stone steps we were in Monjo where we stayed for one night.

Monjo was a pleasant small, rural village with a few lodges, small shops, a school and a small monastery perched on a rocky outcrop. Neatly cultivated fields growing vegetables and rice were dotted around the side of the hill. The mountains at the back of the village were spectacular and topped with snow making for some great views.

I met a couple of the local kids while walking up to the monastery and was very surprised at their command of English - obviously a very good school in Monjo. I was further surprised to hear the the older boy's name was Angus! I told him this was a name from my country.

The Trail to Tengboche - Day 1 - Lukla to Phakding

2013-04-04T00:43:00.000-07:00

Having reached Lukla, and survived the most dangerous airport in the world, we were now ready to start our 4 day trek up to Tengboche at 3,900m and then 3 day trek back. Tengboche was half way up the Everest Base Camp Trail, the base camp being at 5,500m and another 3 days trek past Tengboche. After some local lunch we arranged the sherpa porters and with our trekking guide Bir Bador we headed out through the town and onto the gentle first half day trek to Phakding. At the end of the town there is an arch marking the start of the Everest Base Camp Trail and the stone trail initially descends steeply making it an easy start to the trek. From Lukla to Phakding there is a drop in elevation of around 200m. It was mentally noted however that this easy first section would soon to become the difficult final section on our return to Lukla!

This trail ran through numerous small rural villages surrounded by stepped, cultivated fields growing rice and vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, and potatoes. There were also a number of tea houses and small shops to stop at for refreshments and snacks.

Dzo, a hybrid between yak and domestic cattle, were commonly seen on the trail carrying goods up towards Phakding and beyond. Donkeys were also commonly used and we came across large "donkey trains" heading up or down the trail, usually fully laden on the route up with large bags of goods, gas bottles, etc and coming back down the trail empty ready for the next load. Also, a common sight on the trek were numerous porters, both male and female, young and old, carrying large loads of goods up the trail. We soon got used to listening for the bells of the dzo or donkey trains and moved to one side of the trail to allow them to pass. Occasionally we would see small horses on the trail usually being used to transport people rather than goods.

Prayer wheels were a very common sight on the Everest Base Camp Trail These were brightly painted and inscribed and came in all sizes, some having their own building to house them. A prayer wheel is a cylindrical "wheel" on a spindle made from metal, wood, stone, leather or coarse cotton. Traditionally, the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is written in Newari language (Ranjana script) on the outside of the wheel. Also sometimes depicted are Dakinis, Protectors and very often the 8 auspicious symbols Ashtamangala. According to the Tibetan Buddhist tradition based on the lineage texts regarding prayer wheels, spinning such a wheel will have much the same meritorious effect as orally reciting the prayers. There were also occasional small monasteries and Buddhist stupas along the trail.

Along the paths of regions under the influence of Tibetan or Nepalese Buddhism the traveller is often confronted with Mani walls and these were commonly seen all along the Everest Base Camp Trail. These stone structures comprise intricately carved stone tablets, most with the inscription "Om Mani Padme Hum" which loosely translates to "Hail to the jewel in the lotus". These walls should be passed or circumvented from the left side, the clockwise direction in which the earth and the universe revolve, according to Buddhist doctrine. They are sometimes close to a temple or chorten, sometimes completely isolated and range from a few metres to a kilometre long and one to two metres high. They are built of rubble and sand and faced with mani stones engraved in the elegant Nepalese/Tibetan script.

The trail eventually came down close to the Dudh Kosi River and followed this to Phakding where we would spend the first night. The scenery of river, valley and rugged mountains was beautiful and many of the trees in the fields were in blossom adding to this beauty. It reminded me somewhat of Scotland (without the good whisky I may add!) although on a much larger scale. The mountains were no doubt higher … the highest mountain in Scotland being Ben Nevis at 1,344m and of course Mount Everest here (but yet to see) at 8,848m - some six and a half times the size!!

Lukla - The Starting Point of our Himalayan Trek

2013-03-30T22:41:00.001-07:00

Lukla is a town in the Khumbu area of the Solukhumbu District in the Sagarmatha Zone of north-eastern Nepal. Situated at 2,860 metres (9,383 ft), it is a popular place for visitors to the Himalayas near Mount Everest to arrive. Although Lukla means place with many goats and sheep, few are found in the area these days.

Lukla contains a small airport servicing the region, and a variety of shops and lodges catering to tourists and trekkers, providing western-style meals and trail supplies.

From Lukla, most trekkers will take two days to reach Namche Bazaar, both an interesting village and an altitude acclimatization stop for those continuing on.

The Most Dangerous Airport in the World

2013-03-30T02:03:00.001-07:00

Lukla Airport, now known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport, is rated as one of the most dangerous airports in the world and a program titled "Most Extreme Airports" broadcast in the History Channel in 2010, rated the airport as the most dangerous airport in the world.

So this was to be our arrival point for this start of our 7 day Himalayan trek up the Everest Base Camp trail - as if the trek was not hard enough we had to survive the landing and then the take-off from this incredible runway.

The airport is popular because Lukla is the place where most people start the climb to Mount Everest Base Camp. There are daily flights between Lukla and Kathmandu during daylight hours, in good weather. Although the flying distance is short, rain commonly occurs in Lukla while the sun is shining brightly in Kathmandu. High winds, cloud cover and changing visibility often mean flights can be delayed or the airport closed completely. The airport is contained within a chain link fence and patrolled by the Nepali armed police or civil police around the clock.

The airport's paved asphalt runway is only accessible to helicopters and small, fixed-wing, short-takeoff-and-landing aircraft, such as the De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter or Dornier Do 228. Tara Air also operates two Pilatus PC-6 Turbo Porter aircraft that visit Lukla on a charter basis. The runway is 460 by 20 m (1,510 by 66 ft) with a 12% gradient. The elevation of the airport is 2,800 m (9,200 ft).

Aircraft can only use runway 06 for landings and runway 24 for takeoffs. Due to the terrain, there is no prospect of a successful go-around on short final. There is high terrain immediately after the northern end of the runway and a steeply angled drop, of about 2,000 m (6,600 ft) at the southern end of the runway, into the valley below. The apron has four stands and there is one helipad located 140 m (460 ft) from the control tower. No landing aids are available and the only air traffic service is an Aerodrome Flight Information Service.

The video below shows a typical landing at the airport.

Kathmandu Street Life

2013-03-27T06:50:00.001-07:00

Kathmandu in Nepal is the stepping stone to many of the Himalayan mountain treks and it is usual for visitors to spend a few days here before or after heading to the many popular trekking areas in the mountains. Kathmandu is the gateway to tourism in Nepal and is also the nerve center of the country’s economy. It has the most advanced infrastructure of any urban area in Nepal, and its economy is focused on tourism, which accounted for 3.8% of Nepal's GDP in 1995–96. (Tourism in Kathmandu declined thereafter during a period of political unrest, but since then has improved.)

The city has around 2.5 million population and sits at a height of 1,400m in the Kathmandu Valley in central Nepal. It is a bustling, chaotic city with poor roads and infrastructure but offers some great photo opportunities of daily life.

Kathmandu Rickshaws

2013-03-27T06:38:00.000-07:00

Rickshaws are still in daily use in Kathmandu, Nepal and they can be seen plying the many narrow, rough streets of the city carrying people and goods. They are usually brightly painted and sometimes decorated with flowers and garlands.

Beng Mealea - Lost Temple in the Jungle

2013-03-12T01:09:00.001-07:00

Beng Mealea was built in the Angkor style and is located about 40 km east of the main group of temples at Angkor in Cambodia. It was built as a Hindu temple, but there are some carvings depicting buddhist motifs. Its primary material is sandstone and it is largely unrestored, with trees and thick brush thriving amidst its towers and courtyards and many of its stones lying in great heaps. For years it was difficult to reach, but a road recently built to the temple complex of Koh Ker passes Beng Mealea and more visitors are coming to the site, as it is 77 km from Siem Reap by road.

Like Ta Phrom the Beng Mealea temple has been overgrown extensively by the jungle but unlike Ta Phrom you can explore this temple without the many tourists you get at Ta Phrom and the other Angkor temples.

The history of the temple is unknown and it can be dated only by its architectural style, identical to Angkor Wat, so scholars assumed it was built during the reign of king Suryavarman II in the early 12th century. Smaller in size than Angkor Wat, the king's main monument, Beng Mealea nonetheless ranks among the Khmer empire's larger temples: the gallery which forms the outer enclosure of the temple is 181 m by 152 m. It was the center of a town, surrounded by a moat 1025 m by 875 m large and 45 m wide.

Beng Mealea is oriented toward the east, but has entranceways from the other three cardinal directions. The basic layout is three enclosing galleries around a central sanctuary, collapsed at present. The enclosures are tied with "cruciform cloisters", like Angkor Wat. Structures known as libraries lie to the right and left of the avenue that leads in from the east. There is extensive carving of scenes from Hindu mythology, including the Churning of the Sea of Milk and Vishnu being borne by the bird god Garuda. Causeways have long balustrades formed by bodies of the seven-headed Naga serpent.

It was built mostly of sandstone: Beng Mealea is only 7 km far from the angkorian sandstone quarries of Phnom Kulen, as the crow flies. Presumably sandstone blocks used for Angkor were transported along artificial water canals and passed from here. Despite of lack of information, the quality of architecture and decorations has drawn the attention of French scholars just from its discovery.

Koh Ker - An Ancient Capital of the Khmer Empire

2013-03-05T23:59:00.000-08:00

About 100km northeast of Angkor in Cambodia lies the ancient Angkorian site of Koh Ker which was the capital of the Khmer empire between 928 and 944 under King Jayavarman IV and his son Hasavarman II. In this area a vast number of temples were built and with the recent clearing of the many land mines this has opened up this area for exploration by visitors. It is around a 3 hour drive from Siem Reap but if you are interested in exploring overgrown temples devoid of the usual tourist throngs you get at Angkor then it is certainly a worthwhile visit.

In the centre of the Koh Ker area is Prasat Thom, a 30m tall stepped temple rising above the flat plain and surrounding forest. Arriving at this pyramidal temple as I emerged from the trees after walking through the tumbledown entranceways and monuments reminded me of a scene from movies like Tomb Raider or Raiders of the Lost Ark.

Across the site of Koh Ker, there are many prasat or tower sanctuaries. A couple still feature an enormous linga on a yoni that provides space for several people. The outlet for the water that was sanctified by running it over the linga can be seen in the outside wall of one of them. In other cases, three prasat stand next to each other, dedicated to Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. Most of them are surrounded by libraries and enclosures, many also had moats. At that time, the roofs were still made of wood. Today, only the holes for the beams remain in the stone structures.

In late 2011, the remote location drew media attention worldwide when Sotheby's, an auction house specializing in the antiquities trade, attempted to sell a statue of a mythic Khmer Empire warrior. In March 2012, the US and Cambodian governments filed court documents to seize the statue that they purport was illegally removed from the site. A twin statue, also linked to the Koh Ker site, is on display at the Norton Simon Museum in California.

Kbal Spean - "The River of a Thousand Lingas"

2013-02-27T20:05:00.001-08:00

On the slopes of the Kulen Hills in north east Cambodia and around 25km from the main temples at Angkor lies an archeological site consisting stone carvings in the sandstone formations of the river bed and banks known as Kbal Spean ("Bridge Head" in Khmer). It is also known as "The River of a Thousand Lingas" which are the stone carved bumps and is the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva. It is believed that the Siem Reap River flowing into Angkor is blessed by the sacred lingas over which it flows. There are also many different mythological motifs carved in the rocks including the depiction of gods Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma, Lakshimi, Rama and Hanuman as well as cows, frogs and crocodiles.

The archeological site was discovered in 1969 by the ethologist Jean Boulbet but further exploration of the site was curtailed due to the Cambodian Civil War until 1989 when the site was safe to visit.

The carvings were started during the reign of King Suryavarman I and ended with the reign of King Udayadityavarman II, these two kings ruling between the 11th and 12th centuries.. The 1,000 lingas were attributed to a minister of Suryavarman I during the 11th century and these were carved by hermits living in the area.

The sculptures carved in the river bed and banks depict many Hindu mythological scenes and symbols and when the water level decreases there are also inscriptions which get exposed. The common theme of these sculptures is about creation as defined in Hindu mythology with Lord Vishnu lying on a serpent in a reclining pose on the ocean of milk, the lotus flower emerging from Vishnu's navel which bears the god Brahma, the creator.

Jungle City

2013-02-27T03:37:00.000-08:00

"The city is not a concrete jungle, it is a human zoo."

Desmond Morris (b. 1928), British anthropologist. The Human Zoo, introduction (1969).

Tin Dredge TT5

2013-02-24T19:40:00.000-08:00

Tin mining is one of Malaysia’s oldest and most successful industries. In the 1600s, this industry started to thrive in Kedah, Perak and Selangor. Over the centuries, tin was extracted in huge quantities from both open cast and deeper mines. Dredges were commonly used to extract the tin. Today, there are only about three old dredges left in the country, and this one at Chenderoh, near Tanjong Tualang, Perak, has been preserved. In Feb 2008, it was opened to the public for tours.

The first tin dredge was introduced in Malaysia in 1913 by Malayan Tin Dredging Ltd and started operations in Batu Gajah, Perak. It was steam-powered, using 280-litre buckets that could dig to a depth of 15 metres. The company acquired four dredges and by 1924 was the largest tin dredging company in the world. In 1926, a sister company, Southern Malayan Tin Dredging Ltd was formed, and operated a further five tin dredges between Batu Gajah and Tanjong Tualang.

This fifth dredge, the Tanjung Tualang Dredge No.5 (TT5) was designed and built by F.W. Payne in 1938 in England. It is located approximately 9 kilometres south of Batu Gajah on the Tanjong Tualang road. The dredge was in operation for 44 years, until August 1982, when a drop in tin prices made the dredge uneconomicaly viable.

The pontoon of the dredge is 75m long, 20m wide, and is three storeys high. The total weight of the dredge is 4,500 tonnes. It is essentially a floating factory where buckets on a chain scoop earth deep from the pond. These buckets were then transported up to an area high in the body of the dredge. It was moved by means of a 1.5km long cable, worked from the control area.

The dredge would run on diesel generated electricity 24 hours a day, in two shifts with approximately 20 workers per shift. The conveyor buckets would dig the tin-bearing soil and transport it upwards, emptying the contents into an oscillating drum. The tin would then be extracted through a system of jigs and screens, leaving the excess material to be disposed of via a system of chutes at the back of the dredge.

During the heyday of the tin mining industry, 40 dredges were operated in Perak, with a record of 105 working in 1929 in the whole of the peninsula. This particular dredge stopped work around 1983 after more than 40 years of service.

The TT5 tin dredge is currently owned by the Perak State Government. It is of enormous heritage value as the last remaining tin dredge of its kind in Malaysia. A committee was formed at the end of 2010 to save, preserve and enhance TT5 tin dredge so that it could showcase Malaysia's tin mining past through tourism and education. This has resulted in a "Save the Dredge" campaign in order to raise funds for restoration of the dredge. The TT5 tin dredge is open from 8:30am to 7pm daily, including weekends and public holidays with an entrance fee of RM10.

Angkor Thom, West Gate.

2013-02-23T00:03:00.001-08:00

The West Gate of Angkor Thom is probably the least used gate of the Angkor Thom complex in Cambodia but well worth the visit. I had my tuk-tuk driver drop me at the South gate then walked the 3km along the path to the West Gate which was a wonderful walk and a great way to arrive at the West Gate. As I approached the West Gate along the wooded path the large carved stone heads of the gate eventually came into view through the trees. It was late afternoon and with the soft, diffused light reflecting off the stone edifices this created an almost mythical, fantasy world into which I had arrived.

Preah Rup

2013-02-21T02:18:00.000-08:00

Preah Rup is a temple at Angkor, Cambodia built as the state temple of Khmer king Rajendravarman and dedicated in 961 or early 962. It is a temple mountain of combined brick, laterite and sandstone construction.

The temple’s name is a comparatively modern one meaning "turn the body". This reflects the common belief among Cambodians that funerals were conducted at the temple, with the ashes of the body being ritually rotated in different directions as the service progressed.

Located just south of the East Baray, or eastern reservoir, Preah Rup is aligned on a north-south axis with the East Mebon temple, which is located on what was an artificial island in the baray. The East Mebon was also a creation of the reign of Rajendravarman.

Preah Rup's extensive laterite and brick give it a pleasing reddish tone that is heightened by early morning and late afternoon sunlight. The temple has a square lay-out and two perimeter walls. The outer enclosure is a platform bounded by a laterite wall, 117 meters N-S by 127 meters E-W. A laterite causeway gives entry from the east; unfortunately, a modern road cuts across it. The four external gopuras are cross-shaped, having a central brick section (consisting of three rooms flanked by two independent passageways) and a sandstone vestibule on both sides. To either side inside the eastern gate is a group of three towers aligned north to south. One of the towers appears to have never been built or to have been dismantled later, however they are later additions, probably by Jayavarman V. Further ahead, through another gate, libraries lie to either side of the walkway on the second platform. Just before the entrance there is a stone "cistern", but scholars believe it was a basement for a Nandi bronze statue rather than being used for cremation ceremonies.

There is also a series of long distinct galleries running along each side, a distinctive feature of 10th century architecture that would be substituted by a continuous gallery from Ta Keo onward. The final squared pyramid, measuring 50 m at its base, rises in three steep tiers a dozen metres in height to a 35 m square platform at the summit. The lowest tier is symmetrically surrounded by 12 small shrines. At the top, five towers are arranged in a quincunx, one at each corner of the square and one in the centre. Deities carved as bas-reliefs stand guard at either side of the central tower’s eastern door; its other doors are false doors. The southwest tower once contained a statue of Lakshmi the northwest tower a statue of Uma, the southeast tower a statue of Vishnu and the northeast tower a statue of Shiva. The last one has an inscription on door jambs that dates from Jayavarman V and is the only proof of his reign at Angkor.

Preah Rup was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and it is probably located on a former shivaite ashram built by Yasovarman I in the previous century. Perhaps it was standing at the centre of a new capital city built by Rajendravarman, with the southern dike of East Baray as northern city limit, but nothing of the dwellings survived and this "eastern city hypothesis" by Philippe Stern was never confirmed by archeological discoveries.

Prasat Preah Vihear

2013-02-17T05:21:00.001-08:00

Away from the normal tourist temple areas of Angkor you can find some unique and incredibly interesting remote temples in Cambodia which are uncluttered by tourists allowing you to feel like a real first-time explorer. One such temple, and one which is one of the more remote locations, is Prasat Preah Vihear. Preah Vihear Temple is a Hindu temple built during the reign of Khmer Empire, that is situated on top of a 525-metre (1,722 ft) cliff in the Dangrek Mountains, in the Preah Vihear province, Cambodia. In 1962, following a lengthy dispute between Thailand and Cambodia over ownership, the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in The Hague awarded the temple to Cambodia. Because of these past disputes there is still a heavy military presence at the temple site with bunkers, dugouts and many soldiers on the hilltop.

Prasat Preah Vihear has the most spectacular setting of all the temples built during the six-centuries-long Khmer Empire with a view for many miles over the plains of North Cambodia. As a key edifice of the empire's spiritual life, it was supported and modified by successive kings and so bears elements of several architectural styles. Preah Vihear is unusual among Khmer temples in being constructed along a long north-south axis, rather than having the conventional rectangular plan with orientation toward the east. The temple gives its name to Cambodia's Preah Vihear province, in which it is now located, as well as the Khao Phra Wihan National Park which borders it in Thailand's Sisaket province and through which the temple is most easily accessible. On July 7, 2008, Preah Vihear was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The temple was built at the top of Pey Tadi, a steep cliff in the range of the Dangrek Mountains which are the natural border between Thailand and Cambodia. Hence, the temple is located exactly at the watershed border line between Thailand and Cambodia. The ancient entrance passage and stairs to the temple was built from Thailand's highland side of the mountain up to the cliff, NOT from Cambodia's very low plain side. Hundred years ago, Cambodia was a part of Thailand (known as Kingdom of Siam) until France colonization period before World War 1. Following that period, the Colonial Cambodia and Thailand both declared the occupation of the temple site.

The Temple was listed by Thailand as being in Bhumsrol village of Bueng Malu sub-district (now merged with Sao Thong Chai sub-district), in Kantharalak district of the Sisaket province of eastern Thailand. It is 110 km from the Mueang Si Sa Ket district, the center of Si Sa Ket province.

The Temple was also listed by Cambodia as being in Svay Chrum Village, Kan Tout Commune, in Choam Khsant District of Preah Vihear province of northern Cambodia. The temple is 140 km from Angkor Wat and 320 km from Phnom Penh.

After the ICJ ruled in 1962 that only the Temple building belonged to Cambodia. While the direct way to access the temple is always from Thailand. This verdict has given hard time to both countries ever since.

Construction of the first temple on the site began in the early 9th century; both then and in the following centuries it was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva in his manifestations as the mountain gods Sikharesvara and Bhadresvara. The earliest surviving parts of the temple, however, date from the Koh Ker period in the early 10th century, when the empire's capital was at the city of that name. Today, elements of the Banteay Srei style of the late 10th century can be seen, but most of the temple was constructed during the reigns of the Khmer kings Suryavarman I (1002–1050) and Suryavarman II (1113–1150). An inscription found at the temple provides a detailed account of Suryavarman II studying sacred rituals, celebrating religious festivals and making gifts, including white parasols, golden bowls and elephants to his spiritual advisor, the aged Brahmin Divakarapandita. The Brahmin himself took an interest in the temple, according to the inscription, donating to it a golden statue of a dancing Shiva known as "Nataraja". In the wake of the decline of Hinduism in the region the site was converted to use by Buddhists.

The temple complex runs 800 m (2,600 ft) along a north-south axis facing the plains to the north, from which it is now cut off by the international border. It consists essentially of a causeway and steps rising up the hill towards the sanctuary, which sits on the clifftop at the southern end of the complex (120 m/390 ft above the northern end of the complex, 525 m/1,722 ft above the Cambodian plain and 625 m/2,051 ft above sea level). Although this structure is very different from the temple mountains found at Angkor, it serves the same purpose as a stylised representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods.

The approach to the sanctuary is punctuated by five gopuras (these are conventionally numbered from the sanctuary outwards, so gopura five is the first to be reached by visitors). Each of the gopuras before the courtyards is reached by a set of steps, and so marks a change in height which increases their impact. The gopuras also block a visitor's view of the next part of the temple until they pass through the gateway, making it impossible to see the complex as a whole from any one point.

The fifth gopura, in the Koh Ker style, retains traces of the red paint with which it was once decorated, although the tiled roof has now disappeared. The fourth gopura is later, from the Khleang/Baphuon periods, and has on its southern outer pediment, "one of the masterpieces of Preah Vihear" (Freeman, p. 162) : a depiction of the Churning of the Sea of Milk. The third is the largest, and is also flanked by two halls. The sanctuary is reached via two successive courtyards, in the outer of which are two libraries.

On July 8, 2008, the World Heritage Committee decided to add Prasat Preah Vihear, along with 26 other sites, to the World Heritage Site list, despite several protests from Thailand, since the map implied Cambodian ownership of disputed land next to the temple.

As the process of Heritage-listing began, Cambodia announced its intention to apply for World Heritage inscription by UNESCO. Thailand protested that it should be a joint-effort and UNESCO deferred debate at its 2007 meeting.

Following this, both Cambodia and Thailand were in full agreement that Preah Vihear Temple had "Outstanding Universal Value" and should be inscribed on the World heritage List as soon as possible. The two nations agreed that Cambodia should propose the site for formal inscription on the World Heritage List at the 32nd session of the World Heritage Committee in 2008 with the active support of Thailand. This led to a redrawing of the map of the area for proposed inscription, leaving only the temple and its immediate environs.

However, Thailand's political opposition launched an attack on this revised plan claiming the inclusion of Preah Vihear could nevertheless "consume" the overlapping disputed area near the temple. In response to the political pressure at home, the Thai government withdrew its formal support for the listing of Preah Vihear Temple as a World Heritage site.

Cambodia continued with the application for World Heritage status and, despite official Thai protests, on July 7, 2008, Preah Vihear Temple was inscribed on the list of World Heritage sites.

The renewed national boundary dispute since 2008 has been a reminder that despite the World Heritage ideals of conservation for all humanity, operating a World Heritage site often requires use of national authority at odds with the local cultures and natural diversity of the landscape. Prior to the listing, Cambodia considered Preah Vihear to be part of a Protected Landscape (IUCN category V), defined as "Nationally significant natural and semi-natural landscapes which must be maintained to provide opportunities for recreation." However, Category V is generally defined as "Land, with coast and seas as appropriate, where the interaction of people and nature over time has produced an area of distinct character with significant aesthetic, cultural and/or ecological value, and often with high biological diversity. Safeguarding the integrity of this traditional interaction is vital to the protection, maintenance and evolution of such an area."