a chef's journey to learn wine

Porto Hutcheson, Colheita 1999

2012-01-31T23:02:00.000-08:00

What is port, Porto or "port-styled wine"? Simply put, Porto is a fortified red wine coming from the Duoro region of Portugal.

Starting with the red part, Porto wines are usually a blend of the native varietals, of which there are literally hundreds. The wine laws are very old in the Duoro; in fact the Duoro is the oldest protected wine region in the world having had laws passed in 1756 to safeguard it's wines authenticity. And so, back in the day, perhaps there were winemakers dabbling in any of the hundreds of applicable varietals but these days the dominant ones are Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo in Spain), Touriga Francesa, and Touriga Nacional.

And what do I mean by fortified? Well as I said, the Duoro has some very old laws and several of these laws limit the quantity of Porto that can be produced in any given year. What does a port-producer do with the rest of the wine? Well some of it will be kept or sold as table wine (such as the famous Quinta de Crasto) but much of it will be distilled down to a local liqueur known as Aguardente. This is moonshine, in the most beautiful way. As it comes from the wine that it goes to fortify, the flavors will marry wonderfully but the real joy in adding the liqueur is that it stops the fermentation of the wine, leaving behind any residual sugar to remain as sugar.... acidic and playful tawny ports or sugary sweet candied ruby ports, it is the Aguardente that makes the wine what it becomes.

And so what of the Duoro? The Duoro is the name for both the wine-region and the massive river that carves it's way through northern Portugal. The wine gets produced in the wine-region which is inland from the coastal city of Porto and, back in the day, could only be transported down the mighty river by boat. Hence the fortified wine had to travel through Porto hence the name we give it.

And if you're wondering why the Portuguese couldn't ship the wine by anything other then the river? It's the canyon walls.... hundreds of miles of steep gorges hundreds of feet deep and in the 1700's and 1800's a daunting journey, especially compared with the relative calm of the river.

So what of Porto Hutcheson? In relative terms, Hutcheson is a new-comer; having been brought into the world in 1913 by Manuel de Almeida (http://www.porto-barros.pt/client/skins/english/site.htm). Manuel was a winemaker, yes indeed, but it seems to me that he was a businessman as well (perhaps above and beyond all else). Over the course of his career Manuel succeeded in not only opening Hutcheson, but keeping it open through 2 World Wars and a Great Depression. His grandson Manuel has succeeded and Hutcheson is still a family owned and operated endeavour.

1999 Porto Hutcheson Colheita

$35-40 USD *** Very Good Value ***

visual: clear with trace sediment; light ruby core with substantial orange-brick rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developing aromas of candied orange peel, light caramel, dates and figs, cranberry, raspberry juice, woodsy notes and a touch of clove finish
palate: clean; sweet, fully intense (pomegranate) acids, full alcohol, medium body, medium (soft, chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors with emphasis on red berry notes to start; cranberry, young raspberry, fresh strawberry, pomegranate followed by savory earthy flavors, wood notes and citrus peel. Very good balance, good structure and medium length
conclusion: this wine has probably peaked, but will hold for several years. Drink now to 2020
FOOD PAIRING: Vivid acids and high sugar levels can be a challenge; you will want to use some dairy to balance the acidity but keep your sweetness in the dessert to a minimum or risk making the port seem off-balance. Consider: dark chocolate torte with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, chevre ice-cream and star anise stewed plums

Manuel de Almeida was an impressive businessman: opening his own business and keeping it thriving through nearly insurmountable odds. No, he didn't just keep it running, he grew it... I often worry about what is or is not possible in this time of economic uncertainty, and yet the Universe keeps showing me examples of what IS.

More then we can ever hope for or imagine... and I can imagine alot~!

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Jean Foillard Beaujolais, Morgon "Cote du Py"

2012-01-09T15:48:00.000-08:00

Beaujolais; you may think you know the grape, but until you've tried the masterpieces of Jean Foillard, you really don't know what the varietal is capable of. Greatness.

Jean Foillard (courtesy of WineTerroirs.com)

Jean Foillard bought his vineyard in the appellation Morgon in the Cote du Py of Beaojolais in the early 1980s... the vineyard was in complete disarray and needed years of dedicated work before winemaking could even enter Jean's mind. Now visitors (like the fastidious Bertrand @ http://www.wineterroirs.com/) can stay in one of several private rooms in the chateau and enjoy the tasting room downstairs without fear of how to get back to the hotel after a bit too much joie-du-vie!

Early in Jean's career, he was introduced to Jules Chavet and became an un-official member of "La Bande à Marcel" (http://www.vin-bio-naturel.fr/morgon-cote-du-py-2009-domaine-jean-foillard-vin-rouge-beaujolais,fr,4,BJCP07.cfm). Chavet's mantra or philosophy was (a radical view for the time) that winemaking should be a natural process; he felt that great winemaking started in the vineyard with vigerous canopy management, absolutely no use of chemicals on the vines, low or no use of sulphur, etc etc. To Jean this all made sense and what's more; it makes sense in the glass.

If the appellation of Morgon in the Cote du Py region is known for one thing, it would have to be the soil. Crumbling granite and ancient schist are trademarks of the regions soil, even sandstone makes an appearance to enhance vines with a perfumed edge. The Gamay Noir for which the region is most famous is made what it is because of the soil it grows on (much like all great wines)... but this wine is dulled with the use of chemicals, it is masked with "designer yeasts" and it is ultimately foiled by filtration. To people like Jules Chavet and Jean Foillard it was simple logic: they as winemakers needed to do everything they could to allow maximum expression of Morgon in the bottle (or glass).

And so Jean does the work necessary in the vineyard to allow the fullest expression of the varietal and the terroir of his wines. This even extends to working with the barriques or foudres (3000L cask) himself; not that far out of his comfort zone as his father was a well-known cooper in the region. Every part of the winemaking process is integral to creating a final piece worthy of his efforts, much like every part of a puzzle is necessary to create a complete picture.

2009 Morgon "Cote du Py" by Jean Foillard

$40 CAD ***** BUY THIS IF YOU CAN *****

varietal: 100% Gamay Noir

age of vines: up to 100 years old!

cultivation: manual, completely organic and partially bio-dynamic (not-certified)

vinification: traditional carbonic maceration

aging: 12 months in neutral foudres (some up to 40 years old)

awards: 93 points, Stephen Tanzer

visual: clear; medium ruby core with light cherry rim and no bricking; faint sediment
nose: clean; fully intense and youthful bouquet of red cherries, young raspberries, light red currant, ripe strawberries, rose blossoms in Spring, red candies, fresh blueberries, light spice afternotes
palate: clean; dry, moderate (well integrated red currant and cranberry) acids, moderate-to light (soft, silky) tannins, light body, light alcohol (13.5%), moderate+ intense and youthful flavors that mimick well the nose; heavy emphasis on candied red berry notes typical for a Beaujolais but with a distinct minerally-earthy backbone. Excellent balance and structure, long length
conclusion: whilst this wine is drinking well now, because of the careful viticulture and age of vines this will age well for another decade. Drink 2011-2020; aging will develop earthy notes and the bright candied berries will soften
FOOD PAIRINGS: with the wine so young; the vibrant acidity and the bright red berries, duck is a natural! Consider bergamot smoked duck breast on celeriac and green apple rosti with steamed gai-lan (or swiss chard) with confit of sweet onion

Jean Foillard once explained how the huge foudres he uses are brought into his ancient and modest winecellar: they are taken apart and re-assembled in the cellar plank by plank. It is a meticulous job he stipulated, stressing the importance of every piece being brought back into alignment. It was also worthy of note that the work needed to be finished within 24 hours or the pieces would have shifted slightly, almost imperceptibly, and would never re-assemble properly.

It struck me as I read those words (thank you again Bertrand) that this was the same manner that Jean (and Jules Chavet and Marcel LaPierre and others) approached their work with the vineyard: everything has it's own place. It isn't the winemaker's job to impose his or her own sense of order to the vineyard, it is the winemaker's job to discover the vineyard's own sense of order.

My sense of order is, these days, imposed by a much greater force then my own.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN !!! SLAINTE !!! CHEERS !!!

Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux Superieur

2012-01-08T12:14:00.000-08:00

Alot of names for a little bottle of wine, and I can easily remember the days when this would have been daunting. Let me try and help you understand the label of this lovely (and relatively inexpensive) little way to enter the fiscally intimidating region of Bordeaux.

Chateau D'Arche in Ludon, Medoc

Firstly, Chateau D'Arche is a very well established chateau; it was classified as a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932 (explanation to follow) and for almost 20 years has been owned and managed by the owners of the prestigious Chateau Palmer (http://www.mahler-besse.com/). Chateau Palmer, a Grand Cru Classe, is exorbitantly expensive. To wit: a 1945 Chateau Palmer will auction for over $15,000 USD and it's only a 91-point wine.

I cannot afford Chateau Palmer. But that being said, I am more then willing to enjoy the work of Mähler-Besse (the owners) and their winemaker at a fraction of the cost.

Now as to the Cru Bourgeois: back in 1855 Emperor Napoleon mandated a classification of the chateau of Bordeaux for the Paris Exposition. The chateau were classified mostly according to the price of the wines and were not intended (we are taught) to be a judgement on quality. This list was divided into Premier Cru (First Class), Deuxiemes Cru (Second Class) and so on through Fifth Class.

Well very little has changed since that time with the exception that the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Agriculture created a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932. This list included 444 wineries that were thought to be of "high quality" and was divided into several tiers as well. This multi-tier system has since been annulled (as of 2008) and there is only one tier: Cru Bourgeois. This is supposed to indicate a high quality wine that was not on the official classification of 1855. Enough history?

Time for some geography~! What is the Haut-Medoc?? Please refer to my article http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/01/chateau-la-gorce-medoc-bordeaux-france.html . Suffice it to say that the Medoc region is Left Bank Bordeaux (which in general means the wine will have a significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon) and the Haut-Medoc has the highest ratio of Grand Cru chateau.

1999 Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc

Cru Bourgeois Superieur

$45 BCLDB **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

commune: Ludon-Medoc

blend: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere

age of vines: minimum 35 years

soil type: rich gravel

cultivation: completely manual without the use of any chemicals

vinification: traditional saignee method with 21 day maceration

aging: 12 months in 35% new French barriques

awards: 15.5/20 Vinum Wine Magazine

2 stars Le Guide Hachette des Vins

visual: clear; medium garnet core with light cherry-brick rim and slight sediment
nose: clean; fully intense and developed bouquet of red and black berries; cherries, black raspberries, blackberries, crisp red currant and cassis, intoxicating summer floral notes of roses, green peppers from the Carmenere and rich savory woodsy and earthy background
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (still crisp red currant) acids, moderate (well integrated and chalky) tannins, medium body, moderate+ alcohol (12.5%), moderate intensity and developed flavors similar to the nose with emphasis on the red berry flavors with a strong woodsy/oaky/earthy presence mid-palate. Good balance, very good structure, good length
conclusion: drinking well now, I have heard people say that this vintage will cellar to 2020... perhaps, but there will be no further development of flavors and one is in danger of losing the last of these zippy acids
FOOD PAIRINGS: as with any great Cab-Sauv blend, my natural inclination is to steak. As this is French, why not a classic Steak Frites with peppercorn demi-cream or even with Steak Tartare and roast elephant garlic jam as an appetizer?

Chateau D'Arche is not a Grand Cru wine, but it most certainly is Grand Cru skill utilized to it's fullest. The reward is in the glass!

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Xumek Reserve, San Juan, Argentina

2011-12-13T23:30:00.000-08:00

There is a hot, dry wind blowing through the San Juan province of Argentina. It blows down from the arid mountains; blasting the poor soil and taming the vegetation into subjugation.

It is the Zonda.

Zonda is the name for both the wind that blows relentlessly from May through November and also the valley that it lives in. It is this place, the Zonda Valley, that some of the most exciting viticulture in Argentina is taking place today.

Looking at San Juan province, it is located about 200 miles north of Mendoza province, which wine-lovers the world over have been falling in love with for the past decade or more. Mendoza is home to over 1100 wineries and is the largest wine production area in the country. San Juan is the second largest producer of wine not only in the country, but in all of South America... an area known recently more for it's oil and mineral exploration then for it's viticulture, San Juan is now a hotbed for winemaking activity .

And in that valley named Zonda, in the southern part of San Juan resting against the mighty Andes mountains, in the very upper reaches lies the relatively new winery known as Santa Sylvia. It was started by the Ezkanazi family who, in Argentina, are better known once again for mineral exploration then they are for winemaking... at least that used to be the case.

When Eziquiel Ezkanazi decided to build a winery, he used all of his families' experience in mineral exploration, banking, engineering.... what he did he did well and he only hired the best people. Among those persons-of-interest is none other then Mr Paul Hobbs~! Paul Hobbs was the wunderkinder who crafted Catena wines into one of the absolute crown jewels of the Argentinian wine industry, starting with them in the late 1980's when Malbec was a foreign word.

Now Paul has found himself on the edge of a new frontier; the outer edges of San Juan and a winery that boasts almost 500 acres of vines and almost the same in olives (I'm told the olive oil is extraordinary). Where Paul and Eziquiel can take us with this new adventure I can only guess. My educated guess however, is that this wine will quickly become a fixture in our Malbec oriented firmament.

2006 Xumek Malbec-Syrah

**** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

running mid-$30 range in BC, speciality wine stores only

100% estate grown, manually harvested

vines planted in 1995

visual: clear; ultra deep (full+ intense) garnet core with slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; fully intense developing bouquet of red and black cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black floral notes like irises, dark cocoa background, light Asian peppercorn finish
palate: clean, dry, moderate+ (currant/cassis) acids, moderate+ (smooth, silty) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick well the nose; emphasis on cinnamon/peppery finish (what I call Asian pepper) and deep earthy undercurrant. Extremely well balanced, excellent structure and long length
conclusion: showing much better then I would ever guess from 11-year vines.. drink now and enjoy this wine is peaking and will last another 18 months to possibly 3 years. Will NOT improve with further aging
FOOD PAIRINGS: all Argentians love barbeque; it's a fact. Well anyone would love a barbeque if it was paired with this wine~! Consider applewood smoked boneless beef rib on fried onion buns with celeriac remoulade and Xumek poached plum tomato

Worthy of note? Not only did Wine Access magazine (http://www.wineaccess.ca/) vote the Xumek Malbec as the "Champion Malbec of 2011", but the Argentinian Sommelier Association has voted the Xumek Syrah as one of the top 50 wines of the country~! As for the LittlestStudentofWine, she was was so moved by the wine she started yoga a little early.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Heartland wines by Ben Glaetzer

2011-11-12T18:03:00.000-08:00

Have you ever gotten together with your friends and done something exciting? Driven to Las Vegas, kayaked to SaltSpring Island, gone windsurfing in Mexico, started a winery...

Started a winery?!

Well that's Ben Glaetzer's idea of fun and he managed to wrangle together a posse of like-minded vinophiles such as Geoff Hardy, Grant Tillbrook and Scott Collett. These men are all leaders in their industry in Australia and their names inspire confidence.

Geoff Hardy is a fifth generation winemaker in South Australia and his children are even now being groomed to take a more pivotal role in his operations. Grant Tillbrook is a number-crunching wizard whose list of consulting jobs in Australian wineries is staggering... wine-making may be an art-form, but without the right numbers to support it, wineries are incredibly expensive propositions. That leaves Scott Collett whose family has been working with wine in the McLaren Vale for 50 years and show no signs of stopping.

An inspired group of individuals, but I've often heard it said that "too many chefs spoil the soup". In this instance, nothing could be further from the truth, and it must be due in part to it's captain: Ben Glaetzer.

Ben literally grew up in the wine industry; Ben's uncle John Glaetzer was the second employee at Wolf Blass Winery (see my article on Wolf Blass at http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/09/wolf-blass-gold-series-shiraz-viognier.html). Ben's father Colin is a renown winemaker who won the prestigious Winemaker of the Year award in Australia. Even Ben's two brothers are winemakers. One could say that genetics came into play when Ben's received the Quantas award for young winemaker of the year in 2004 and was called a "brilliant winemaker" by Robert Parker Jr.

So what does the award-winning winemaker do? He gathers a team of like-minded individuals and creates the Heartland brand of wines from South Australia (http://www.heartlandwines.com.au/) which still focus on quality, but with value being a high priority and not afraid to take a few risks in the vineyard.

Great pricing, great quality, and all from one of the most innovative winemakers in Australia today! What else do you want? Well I for one want to be able to drink the wine right away - as opposed to Ben's ultra-premium Amon-Ra which deserves ample cellaring. Done. All of these wines drink superbly right away and right from the bottle - I didn't even need to decant.

So what's the magical key to making wines like this: is it only due to the efforts of the massively gifted confederates? Much as some might like to say "yes", the truth is that terroir plays into the equation just as much (if not more) then anything else.

vineyards in Langhorne

Heartland wines are grown on two distinct properties; in the Langhorne Creek and on the Limestone Coast. The Langhorne Creek is about 70km, or an hour's drive, south-east of Adelaide in South Australia... it's a beautiful place that has been producing wine longer then almost anywhere in this country. Settlers came here in the early 1800's and by the 1850's a wine industry was already bustling. The area is known for the cooling effects that the local lake Alexandrina has on climate, and has been recognized as a "cool-climate" viticulture region.

a stickleback tree on the Limestone Coast

The Limestone Coast is almost 300km south-east from Adelaide and shares more in common with it's famous neighbour to the east: Coonawarra. The Limestone Coast soil has a high amount of oxidized iron in it's soil, creating what is known a terra rosa or red-soil. The region is also known as having very dry (even by Australian standards) summers which leads to stress on the vines... this stress is good stress, not like when your boss tells you that he's fired someone else in your department and left all of their work for you. This stress leads to reduced yields from the vines which means that there will be a greater concentration of flavors.

So Ben, Geoff, Grant and Scott decide that they want to use their powers of oenology for good in the world and create unique, well-crafted wines for a reasonable price. How to accomplish this? They source out regions which don't have aren't as well-known yet so they can afford to sell the yields for modest fees. The results speak for themselves.

2009 Heartland Stickleback Red

$18 *** Very Good Value ***

Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 45%, Shiraz 38%, Dolcetto 9%, Lagrein 8%

Region: Langhorne Creek 67%, Limestone Coast 33%

Vinification: fermented on skins for 5 days before pressing.

Malolactic fermentation in 2 and 3 year old oak barrels

Maturation: 12 months in 2 to 3 year old; French and American oak

visual: clear; fully intense plum/garnet core with slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; moderate+ to fully intense developing aromas of red and black currant, red and black raspberry, blueberries, slightly spicy earthy terroir
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (red raspberry) acids, moderate+ (soft chalky) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5% ABV), moderate+ intense youthful flavors that mimick well all the red and under ripe berry notes.... the Shiraz makes its presence known with the spicy finish and the Langrein helps with the fresh acids. Very good balance, and structure, medium+ to long length
conclusion: drinks well now but can cellar easily for until 2014. Will not develop appreciably
FOOD PAIRINGS: crisp red wines need a bit of fat; pair this wine with a Grilled ribeye steak with kosher seasalt and smoked paprika rub

2009 Heartland Shiraz

$25 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

Varietal: 100% Shiraz

Region: Langhorne Creek 95%, Limestone Coast 5%

Soil: Langhorne Creek: Sandy Loam, Limestone Coast: Grey marl over deep limestone

Age of vines: 16-18 years

Vinification: crushed, then pumped over twice a day. Ten days skin contact. Extended maceration

Maturation: 14 months in new to 4 year old; 70% French, 30% American oak hogshead barrels

visual: clear; moderate+ bruised plum/garnet core with slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of red berries, spicy black licorice (no, really, that's what it smells like to me), dark espresso and chocolate notes
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (raspberry/currant) acids, moderate (soft, silky) tannins, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking well the nose with emphasis on red currant, red raspberry with the spicy finish known for Shiraz. Very good balance, excellent structure with long length
conclusion: drinking well now, this wine will certainly reward cellaring for the next several years. Drink 2014-2018
FOOD PAIRINGS: a natural for lamb with it's lively acids, consider braised lamb shank with prosciutto-tomato and fresh sage reduction over parnsip and Yukon Gold potato mash

2009 Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon

$25 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Region: Langhorne Creek 73%, Limestone Coast 27%

Soil: Langhorne Creek: Sandy Loam, Limestone Coast: Grey marl over deep limestone

Age of vines: 12-15 years
Vinification: crushed into 10 tonne open fermenters, and left on skins to cold macerate for three days prior to yeast inoculation. The wine was pressed to oak for malolactic fermentation, then racked and returned to oak

Maturation: 12 months 2 to 4 year old; 80% French 20% American oak

visual: clear; fully intense garnet core with cherry rim
nose: clean; fully intense developing aromas of blackberry, warm winter spice, light tobacco and cigar box, light eucalyptus or menthol notes
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (red raspberry) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (soft, chalky) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5% ABV), moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose once again with emphasis on the red berry notes and a lingering earthy background... the terra rosa shows through. Excellent balance and structure, long length
conclusion: drinking well now, this wine also benefits from cellaring. Drink 2014 to 2018
FOOD PAIRINGS: rich red wine with a bit of zippy acids? Consider a Butter poached beef tenderloin with slightly spicy roast garlic compound butter

Heartland wineries on the map

And so I'm left at the end of a truly wonderful tasting asking the exact same question I did at the beginning. Which is mightier in winemaking: the winemaker or the terroir? Obviously the answer is more complicated then just black or white.. it's neither one nor the other. The truest joy in winemaking comes for the consumer when winemaker and terroir are working in unison as evidenced by the above.

My joy these days is measured by the LittlestStudentOfWine, who gave her smiles of approval when she smelled each and every one of these wines. My smiles were not far behind...

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Chateau de Montfaucon, Cotes du Rhone

2011-10-31T21:22:00.000-07:00

I've spoken alot in recent months about building something new; being "brave" as it were and pushing out on one's own to create a future.

What then would be my adjective for someone who is re-building their family history and creating a new family legacy?

This is the story with Rudolphe de Pins, current owner and winemaker at Chateau de Montfaucon (http://www.chateaumontfaucon.com/) in the Cotes-de-Rhone, southern France. A graduate of UC Davis in California, and then a part of the winemaking team at the prestigious Henschke vineyard in Barossa and Vieux Telegraphe in Châteauneuf du Pape, Rudolphe had a mountain of work when he took over Montfaucon in 1995. Luckily for him, a recent ancestor (Baron Louis) was the one who had begun the massive undertaking in the 1800's; renovating the facade of the massive keep and developing the vineyards.

It fell to Rudolphe, however, to develop the vines to the point where no longer did the family feel they needed to sell their grapes of Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise to other wineries. Rudolphe was determined, and had the training behind him to make his dreams reality. In 1995 Chateau de Montfaucon released it's first vintage in over a century and it was under Rudolphe's leadership.

Now the original 18 HA of vineyard have grown to over 45, with some vines over 90 years of age. Montfaucon is careful to keep low yields to ensure quality flavor concentration, and the variety of soils and over 15 varietals grown ensure great depth of flavor and layering. If there is one thing that really sets Montfaucon apart from many other wineries however, it is their technique of co-fermentation.

Co-incidentally, I read today about a winemaker in BC who applies the same techniques and has developed a cult following for the depth of flavor and layering in his wines. Sounds familiar~! Many winemakers when blending different varietals will ferment each one separately and then blend post-fermentation, even after aging. Rudolphe disagrees with this practice:

Rudolphe in the 15th century cellar

"In order to enhance the balance of the wine, we co-ferment up to five varieties in the same tank. This increases the exchange and integration of different grapes during the important fermentation time. By controlling temperature and time on skins, typically 8 to 14 days, I am looking to extract only soft and silky tannins."

Montfaucon on the map

What does all of this mean for the wine-drinker: for you the consumer? Rich flavors with approachable tannins and all for a reasonable price. These vineyards are literally across the river from Chateauneuf-du-Pape where the same blend triples in cost, and Rudolphe has the pedigree to charge those kind of prices. But he doesn't.

He's building something these days. He's building brand recognition. He's building a loyal following of consumers throughout the world. He's building, in other words, a future for his family.

2008 Cotes-du-Rhone, Chateau de Montfaucon

blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvedre and Counoise

$22 CAD **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

vine age: average 40 years with some to 90 years

soil type: varied with mainly calcareous pebbelstone on silty sandy soil, soil with clay and sandy soil

fermentation: co-fermentation typically 8 to 14 days

maturation: 18 months in concrete and French oak

visual: clear; dark plum core with slight cherry rim (faintest tint of brick)
nose: clean; medium+ to fully intense developing aromas of blackberry, red and black raspberry, rich earthy background, lifted dark florals from the Mourvedre, bruised plums
palate: clean; dry, moderate (very well balanced raspberry/cranberry) acids, moderate+ (well integrated and velvety) tannins, moderate+ alcohol (13.5%), moderate body, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on rich berry notes and warm earthy background. Excellent balance and structure with long length
conclusion: whilst drinking well now, this wine can age gracefully for several years yet will not develop appreciably
FOOD PAIRING: rich Cotes-de-Rhone pairs well with duck and game meats; always has and always will. This wine is no exception. Consider bergamot smoked duck breast over chorizo fried "dirty" rice with sweet pea-spinach emulsion and candied cranberries

This wine is a wonderful way to become acquainted with Cotes-de-Rhone flavors and aromas. Indeed, if it were up to me this would be required tasting for all aspiring wine stewards. It's not a terribly complicated wine but, in fact, that works in favor of the new wine-drinker. What a deliciously easy-drinking way to be introduced to this regions flavors. This is a typical blend made with a-typical care and attention to detail for the price. Are you more experienced with the region and the flavors? Then enjoy something that is Chateauneuf-du-pape quality and uses the same varietals but for one-third the price~!

This is the entry level wine for Rudolphe de Pins and Chateau de Montfaucon. The world of wine should be taking notice.

As always I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Three Saints Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, California

2011-10-23T15:21:00.000-07:00

I'm at that point in my life where hard-work and dedication are goals everyday: every time I read about someone who dared to break off on their own and build something that was theirs I am reminded that the only thing standing between myself and my success is me.

I'm in awe of people who seem to instinctually know this and live their lives accordingly; they dream of something and they make it happen. Kudos to people like you. You are inspirational.

Three Saints, Santa Ynez

Jim Dierberg is one of those inspirational people. Jim was born in a small town in Missouri and after college went to work at the local bank. The local bank went out of control and turned into a chain of 150 units across several states and Jim's salary increased accordingly, and so Jim did what every kid in Missouri dreams of (joking); he opened a winery.

Not content with just the Hermannhof winery, which became one of the best known wineries in the state... Jim and his wife Mary began scouring California for their new home and adventure. They ended up in the Santa Barbara AVA and why they chose to settle there I can well understand. Santa Barbara is comfortable; rolling hills meet the ocean and un-ending beaches... there's great farmland, cattle raising (*especially lamb), fishing. In fact, one of the only things I don't like about Santa Barbara is that there is a county-wide $2000 fine for smoking on the beach. Fairly draconian measures in my mind - but then again - I smoke cigars, don't I?

So Jim and Mary found Santa Barbara County appellation in the inland corner known as Santa Ynez Valley and there they started the Three Saints Vineyard (www.ThreeSaintsVineyard.com ). Many winemakers will argue that the area along the coastline is more prestigious, as it gets a heavy amount of fog and is eminently suitable to the growing of Pinot Noir. Santa Ynez however retains it's heat, and when Jim and Mary wanted to work with Southern Rhone varietals - they know they had the right spot.

The wineries' website gives the fullest explanation of their individual terroirs and I fear I wouldn't do them justice by plagiarizing and so I'll say: visit the website. It's a brief read full of useful information. One thing I don't think they give enough attention to is the vast amount of work that is done by hand in the vineyards. There are a staggering number of wineries in California who automate their viticulture work in order to reduce costs and (theoretically) increase quality... in some instances I've seen quality increase. Some.

2007 Three Saints Syrah

$20 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

time on skins: 20 days

aging: 15 months in neutral oak; 2 months on-the-lees

fining/filtration: light fining/ light filtration

production: 650 cases

visual: clear; dark inky-purple core with slight cherry rim (light bricking)
nose: clean; fully intense and developing aromas of bright red cherry, red raspberry, light cassis, blackberry and huge blueberry notes, savory baked earth
palate: clean; moderate (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky, silty) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.2% ABV), moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with nuances of leather, red meat, hints of dark coffee. Very good balance and structure, long length
conclusion: drink now to 2014, will not develop further in bottle
FOOD PAIRINGS: all of the berry notes and the bright, vibrant acidity make me want to pair this with duck~! Consider a Chinese 5-spice crispy skin duck breast on wild rice latkes with steamed Swiss chard...

2007 Three Saints "Steakhouse Red"

37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Malbec, 18% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc

$23 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

visual: clear; moderate+ to fully intense garnet core with substantial cherry/brick rim
nose: clean; moderate intense and developing aromas of baked earth, casis, red and black raspberry, worn leather, light savory herbs, a little spice on the finish (a good Bordeaux blend)
palate: clean; moderately intense red currant/cassis acids, moderate+ (chalky/silty) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol (14.7% ABV), moderately intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with the richness of the berries and the earth showcasing. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure and long length.
conclusion: drinking very well now and until 2014/15. Will not improve with further aging.
FOOD PAIRINGS: I wouldn't expect this with a $23 Bordeaux blend, but this has the balanced acids and finesse in it's structure to pair with beef tenderloin. Consider butter poached venison tenderloin "al rossini" with shaved black truffle on foie gras, potato rosti and apple puree

the view at Santa Ynez

A great showing of reasonably priced wines. I look forward to sampling more of their products in the near future~!

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot

2011-10-15T19:12:00.000-07:00

So I heard a story recently about an award-winning winemaker from South Africa who used to be a chartered accountant...

I waited patiently for the punchline.

There isn't one. It's a true story and Gyles Webb from Thelema Mountain Vineyards (www.Thelema.co.za) really used to be an accountant, but more then that he was (and is) a man with a passion: excellence in wine.

Thelema vineyards (arial view)

Gyles and his wife Barbara had dreamt of finding themselves the right spot in Stellenbosch to make the wine they knew they could make. It was a long search, but an abandoned fruit farm of approximately 157 ha became their new home. The farm had been long abandoned, and though grapes had once been grown there - there were none when the Webbs moved onto the property.

The amount of work that went into developing the land from fruit orchard to working winery was staggering and the Webbs aren't done yet~! In 2000 Thelema bought a 45 ha apple orchard in the Elgin Valley and began to convert it to cool-climate varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Thelema vineyards (tasting room)

But it was the 2006 Merlot that really caught my attention; deep, dark and delicious it's a uniquely rich version of the grape. Merlot of course is capable of many faces; from a soft and fruit-driven single varietal to a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon to a fully tannic and an intense dark berry and chocolate flavor profile. This showing from Thelema would certainly fall under the latter category and is brilliantly executed.

2006 Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot

$36 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

altitude: approximately 500 m

soil: Hutton: high proportion of decomposed granite

vines: planted 1988

maturation: 20 months oak (40% new)

visual: clear; fully intense bruised plum core with slightest cherry/brick rim
nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of blackberry, black cassis, black raspberry, light savory herbs and eucalyptus notes
palate: clean, dry, moderately intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (soft, smooth, silty) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5%), moderate+ intense and developed flavors similar to the nose with a distinct peppery finish. Very good to excellent balance and structure with long length
conclusion: I agree with the winemaker's notes that this wine is peaking now and should be enjoyed over the next 24 months. Will not improve with further aging.
FOOD PAIRINGS: a soft and smooth red wine with rich tannin structure screams red meat to me... I was thinking butter poached beef tenderloin with wild thyme roast BC mushrooms and crispy parnip chips but hey, that's just my style :)

I like hearing stories that end on a positive note; an accountant and his wife have a burning passion for wine. They search for their place in the world and work their a$$es off to make the land work and work with the land. Many of you know that I have a new light in my life; Clare Elizabeth (the LittlestStudentofWine). I understand the value of hard work and have a new-found comprehension for how and why people are willing to dedicate themselves to building something bigger then themselves.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Wolf Blass gold series Shiraz-Viognier

2011-09-11T21:31:00.000-07:00

I remember first seeing the name "Wolf Blass" on an Australian wine and thinking "That's a silly name for a winery." I had no idea that there really was a man named Wolf.

Well there really is a Wolf, and he's been making wine for longer then I've been alive... a long story made short; Wolf Blass was born in what was Eastern Germany in the 1930's and became the youngest person to ever earn the Kellermeister Diploma, or Master's degree in Eonology. He was just past twenty years of age.

Some might think that he had been born with the grapevine in hand... not so. In fact, Wolfgang fell into the wine industry quite by accident~! Wolf ran away from school as a teenager and was given an ultimatum by his parents: return to school or apprentice under a winemaker. Well, school wasn't really Wolf's thing you see - so there wasn't much of a choice for him, and the world of wine has changed as a result of that ultimatum.

Wolf Blass winery (http://www.wolfblass.com.au/) was one of the first wineries in Australia to start commercial production of Shiraz-Viognier. Shiraz, or Syrah as you may know it, has been grown to great success in South Australia for decades but what of Viognier?

Viognier is a relative newcomer to the Australian wine-scene and the blend of the two is really more then just a blend. Viognier is a white grape varietal that in it's youth has an abundance of floral aromas, and depending on where it's grown - will give rich fruit and floral palate with crisp acids. Aging the wine is a risk though as the floral notes tend to die quite quickly (sometimes under 5 years).

And then there is the blend which is more-then-a-blend; it's a co-fermentation. Anywhere from 2% to 8% of the grapes used in total production will be Viognier and it is this varietal which ends up preserving the blend's lively colors as well as fundamentally altering the flavor compounds and phenolics.

It was a risk when it was first conceived, and even today there are winemakers and sommeliers alike who will contest it's merits. To me, there are obvious joys to the co-fermentation and downfalls: a joy would be the lightness that Viognier brings and "tones-down" the South Australia Shiraz' natural inclination to big, bold, jammy characteristics. There are more floral notes of course, and to my palate a richer, more developed fruit profile. On the downside however, there is that tendency for the palate to diminish more quickly than normal... a well made Shiraz can easily last 10 years or more, but I find many Shiraz-Viognier will have lost their flavors in approximately 5.

2005 Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz-Viognier

Adelaide Hills, South Australia

$38 *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

varietals: 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier

maturation: 15 months in oak (18% new oak) with a small amount unoaked to retain freshness

visual: clear; fully intense bruised plum core with slightest brick rim
nose: clean; medium intensity and developed aromas of lifted dark florals (irises, lilies), dark berries (blackberries, black raspberry), light cigar tobacco, savory winter spices (allspice, clove, pepper), background of baked earth
palate: clean, dry, medium+ (red currant) acids, medium- (soft, velvety), tannins, medium body, medium- ABV (surprising considering it's 15%), medium intense and developed flavors mimicking the nose with particular emphasis on crisp red berries (red currant, red raspberry)... light florals mix well with restrained oaking and light spice notes. Very good balance, excellent structure and long length
conclusion: this wine has peaked, and if you still have a bottle - drink it now~! Enjoy 2009-2012
FOOD PAIRINGS: crisp, vibrant acids in a red wine with light floral notes and moderate tannins? I can certainly understand people who want to pair it with venison~! consider a Maple glazed venison flank steak (medium-rare) with pure Kentucky bourbon demi-glace, steamed spaghetti squash and wild mushroom ravioli... just a thought :)

To be honest, this was the first Wolf Blass wine that I've tried in years (and years). I can still remember the 1990's when they absolutely dominated the Canadian wine market and were simply the wine to drink. There was a reason for that: they were great wines for the price. I stopped to show myself that I'd grown beyond the "old favorites"... well maybe I've grown up enough to come back to those old favorites. After all, they became our favorites for a reason:

Quality.

As always I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Saint Cosme, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

2011-09-10T18:38:00.000-07:00

"Terroir" is a term, originally French, in winemaking that has come to mean all of the environmental impacts on the making of a wine; the land, the wind, the rain... even the winemaker is considered by many to be part of the terroir.

TheLittlestStudentOfWine

So my apologies, firstly, for not writing for the past few weeks. Many of you know that my wife and I have a new addition to the family: TheLittlestStudentOfWine. Absolute truth; she smells every wine I taste at home and has her own list of wrinkly noses to explain how much (or how little) she likes a wine. For instance the Hainle (http://www.hainle.com/) icewine Riesling or the Summerhill (http://www.summerhill.bc.ca/) late harvest Erenfelser gets a big smile each and every time. Overly cropped Shiraz? Usually a big wrinkly face.

But I digress.

Today I was reading the latest Decanter Magazine (http://www.decanter.com/) and lo-and-behold, most of the articles on California were about a movement in winemaking back to the concept of terroir... winemakers who are not afraid anymore to allow the land and the grape to express themselves. This may sound like common-sense, but sadly is not the case.

Many winemakers feel compelled by critics and points to make a wine "that-the-people-will-like", instead of a wine that they themselves will be proud of. There is chemical control, the addition of compounds, and many other "tricks" to manipulate a wine into being something other then what it wants to be. Think of it as plastic surgery for wine.

But there is that movement that Decanter is talking about, and the movement is growing.

And where did this concept come from again? France.

Arguably some of the most devote students to the concept to terroir are Louis and Cherry Barruol of Saint Cosme winery in Gigondas (http://www.saintcosme.com/). Louis is the inheritor of 14 generations of dedication to allowing the southern Rhone terroir express itself through his wines. In fact, his family home has an archaeological site with the oldest wine fermentation tank in southern France, dated at 2000 years old. Serious winemaking on this land~!

And serious about quality. Louis refutes the use of artificial yeasts during fermentation and is as sparse as can be with SO2 during production/bottling. I personally have seen poor results with winemakers who abhorred SO2 and then ended up with prematurely oxidized wines, but I am a new believer after tasting this vintage from Saint Cosme.

2007 Saint Cosme Chateauneuf-du-Pape

$65 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

vines: average age approximately 60 years

climate: cool and late-ripening

visual: clear; medium+ bruised plum core with slight cherry/brick rim
nose: clean; medium+ to fully intense; youthful and developing aromas; red and black cherries with definite candied notes, rich, savory winter spice background with lifted floral notes and hints of white pepper
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (young cherry/red currant) acids, moderate+ (fine, silty) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ to fully intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose; heavy emphasis on the young berry notes throughout. Excellent balance and structure with a long finish
conclusion: already starting to show exceptional promise, this wine will blossom into a superstar given a few more years; enjoy 2015-2028+
FOOD PAIRINGS: with the exciting acids and rich complexion, this wine would sing if paired with foie gras and beef... consider an oven roast tenderloin of beef with seared foie gras on Alsatian potato and leek croquette

Louis Barruol in his cellar

In Louis' own words:

"At Saint Cosme we usually work “à la main”. I want to make wines which express their terroir with purity and personality"

And he succeeds. A winery that has very little following outside of France (so far) is becoming known to industry insiders as one of the value wineries in the Southern Rhone. Do they have expensive wines... of course. Are they worth the money? You better believe it.

Bravo.

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Cabernet Franc

2011-08-14T18:09:00.000-07:00

Many of you know the immense respect I have for organic farmers (of all varieties). Organic farming is a real and genuine commitment to the land (and the consumers) to treat it with respect and approach it with some level of understanding.

How much more then, can I say for bio-dynamic viticulture? Or wineries who adopt zero-carbon emission standards, or make efforts to dramatically reduce their carbon footprint? The obvious answer is that I have the utmost respect for any business person who makes the effort, who takes the time to address our immediate and growing concern of limited resources on this planet and too few people grabbing at what there is.

I had thought that our government in British Columbia was forward thinking enough to share these sentiments.

Perhaps I was wrong.

Ezra Cipes, general manager

Summerhill Pyramid winery (www.summerhill.bc.ca) is a true destination-location in the south Okanagan Valley DVA. Stephen Cipes first came to this region in 1986 and felt that he had found the place to call home for himself and his family. 35 years later, the family has bound itself to the land and says categorically that they are lucky to be able to do so. Ezra Cipes, Stephen's son says:

"At Summerhill we have so much to celebrate. The quality of wine, food, and service that we are known for, and the good conscience we share knowing the care that goes into our products, truly brings us together as a family. I spend a lot of my life at work, and the love and friendship I share with the team at Summerhill helps me feel whole and like my life is well lived."

So knowing these sentiments from the Cipes family, knowing that they have worked diligently on their organic certification for all of the farms who provide the winery with it's grapes and also work towards bio-dynamic certification... knowing all of this and knowing the vast array of awards that have been earned by these craftsmen I was well and truly stunned to learn this month (August 2011) that the winery will be losing it's VQA status on one of their wines.

Why? What terrible thing could Summerhill have done?

They created a 3-Litre box for their wine.

Oh the (mock) horror of it all~! It's clearly stated in the province's Agricultural Food Choice and Quality Act, only bottled wine can be VQA. Never mind that Summerhill is using the exact same wine that goes into their bottles, or that there is a 76% reduction in the carbon footprinting vs bottles and corks for that same volume.

Stephen Cipes, owner

Just never mind.

...

Well actually I do mind. And so should you.

When business-people make the time and take the effort to be environmentally responsible, without encouragement from the government, we the people should be cheering them on~! The government should make a point of recognizing forward-thinking rather then castigating it.

But I imagine that Stephen Cipes and his family will continue to do what they do, and do it in their responsible and conscientious manner. They will continue to be the most-visited winery in Canada, and will continue to take their wines around the world garnering recognition from winemakers and sommeliers where-ever they go. They will continue to do business as they see fit, though without the support of the body that has the most reason to be supportive: when a single BC winery is this pro-active and produces this level of quality, it is the entire BC wine industry that gains standing in the global arena.

2007 Summerhill Pyramid winery small lot Cabernet Franc

Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia

$28.95 @ the winery

$29.95 @ http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

**** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

93 points - Best of Class, Gold Medal - Los Angeles International Wine & Spirit Awards 2011

450 cases produced

visual: clear with trace sediment; medium+ to fully intense bruised plum core with slight cherry and slightly brick rim
nose: clean; medium+ to fully intense developing bouquet of red and black raspberries, red and black currants, old worn leather, slight savory herbs such as thyme, traces of drying summer flowers and pink peppercorn
palate: clean; medium+ (lively red currant) acids, medium+ (slightly chalky and well integrated) tannins, medium body, medium ABV, medium+ to fully intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on the red berry flavors opening the palate; dark berries are still developing; excellent balance and structure with long length
conclusion: an excellent display of Okanagan terroir and the Cabernet-Franc varietal; drinking well now this wine will cellar for years and develop slightly in bottle over the next 24 months. Enjoy 2011-2016
FOOD PAIRINGS: the acids on this are very, very well balanced and as such have no need of excess fats. Consider a butter glazed beef tenderloin with grilled leeks and sweet-pea risotto

The plantings of Cabernet Franc come from Knollvine farms in the Okanagan Falls region. Summerhill was instrumental in many vineyards achieving their organic certification and after this beautiful showing, I look forward to sampling more of the honest work behind Canada's most-visited winery.

As always, I welcome your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Moon Curser, Border Vines "Bordeaux Blend", BC

2011-08-13T19:08:00.000-07:00

Bordeaux blends; a wine by any other name would smell as sweet? Well call the wine a Bordeaux blend, a "Meritage", "Mirage", "Occulus" or "Border Vines"... we're all talking about the same thing (more or less).

Bordeaux (France) is a winemaking region with a long history of craftsmanship going back to the 2nd century and the Romans. Today the region is perhaps best known for it's blended wines (which comprise more then 80% of all it's production). The red wines, which I'm focusing on today, are divided into two broad categories (which sommeliers will divide further): Right Bank and Left Bank.

Right Bank blends are generally more supple, drink younger, and can be enjoyed on their own or with food. These blends are always driven by a large portion of Merlot which will be 70% of the blend or more, with a smattering of Cabernet Franc and perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Left Bank blends are primarily Cabernet Sauvignon driven blends, also with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but also Petit Verdot and Malbec. These are the "Bordeaux Blends" that are most common in British Columbia, especially the Okanagan Valley DVA. An almost obscure varietal; Carménère has been virtually fazed out of the vineyards of Bordeaux and has taken root (forgive the pun) in the Central Valley of Chile to great success.

And then along comes a Moon Curser. A what? A winery from the Okanagan Valley (www.MoonCurser.com ) which started as Twisted Tree in 2005 and went through a true renaissance in 2010; it was reborn. The winery's parents Beata and Chris Tolley, who emigrated to our fair valley from the other side of the Rocky Mountains in Calgary, hired Vancouver designer and brand-specialist extraordinaire Bernie Hadley-Beauregard who's pedigree is as impressive as his multi-syllable name (just joking - some of the finest BC wineries to open or re-open in recent years including Blasted Church Vineyards, Dirty Laundry Winery, 8th Generation Winery and more have hired his expertise).

And what does Moon Curser have that warrants all this conversation?

the view from Moon Curser

A true Bordeaux blend, the Border Vines: Cabernet Sauvignon (29%), Carmenere (23%), Malbec (23%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The wine is grown in five Osoyoos East Bench vineyards, all within tractor-driving distance from one another.

We here in BC have many wineries producing Bordeaux blends, yet this is the only one including the rare Carménère . And why would this be? Carménère simply requires a longer summer season for ripening then most wineries have, with the exception of those at the southern end of the province at the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert: Moon Curser (with a few other notable exceptions).

2009 Border Vines bordeaux blend

$25 at the winery

$27 http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/ **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

visual: clear; fully intense royal purple or slightly inky core with slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing aromas of red raspberry and currant, light cranberry notes, pink peppercorn spice, light star anise and black currants
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (well integrated red currant) acids, moderate+ (soft and supple) tannins, moderate body, moderate ABV, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on the berry flavors throughout, soft finish of savory herbs with a slightly spicy finish. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ to long length on the palate
conclusion: this wine drinks very well now, and very well for the price~! Enjoy 2011-2014/15 but will not develop appreciably in bottle
FOOD PAIRINGS: great Bordeaux style wine calls for great beef (in my opinion). Serve this with a great grilled ribeye steak with kosher seasalt and extra-virgin olive oil, steamed swiss chard and new potatoes... not the most original food pairing ever, but sometimes we just need to get back to the classics

Moon Curser workers at night

If you haven't tried these wines before (in either incarnation) you will quickly be listing this as one of your classics... a "go-to" wine that easily expresses BC quality and BC terroir. Well done Moon Curser, and my thanks to John Schreiner (www.johnschreiner.blogspot.com) for his inspired and ever-diligent research.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Rosemount Estate Balmoral Syrah

2011-08-08T21:09:00.000-07:00

In the 1860's a young man from Germany came to the unknown; he came to Australia. Landing in the new seaport of Sydney (which had functioned as a port for the Aboriginal people for 30,000 years) Carl Brecht was determined to set his own future, and followed a little known road to the outer edges of the Hunter Valley. There, at the junction of the Wybong Creek and the Goulburn River he planted his vineyard and settled the savage land.

Fast-forward 100 years and another entrepreneur comes along in the Australian world of wine. In 1968, a visionary by the name of Bob Oatley purchased the long-standing vineyard of Rosemount Estate (www.RosemountEstate.com.au). Rosemount had enjoyed a lengthy position as one of the fine wine producers of Australia, but Bob wanted to take it further: he wanted to be the best. A worthy dream, but necessitating a rather huge amount of work, n'est-pas? Bob was up to the task of fulfilling his vision.

In 1975 Rosemount released their first wines; a 1974 Hunter Valley Semillion and Hermitage. They garnered a total 69 awards throughout Australia. Enough to qualify as being the best? In 1982 they took their 1980 Chardonnay and became the first Australians to ever with double-gold at the International Wine and Spirit Competition. Enough yet to feel like the best? In 1999, Rosemount became the first non-American winery to ever win winery of the year at the prestigious San Francisco International Wine Competition.

One would think that perhaps Bob would rest on his laurels.

One would be wrong.

In 2004 the 2002 Diamond Merlot wins the Merlot Trophy at the International Wine and Spirit Competition; one of the most highly recognized trophies for a varietal.

Bob Oatley has taken one property in 1966 and turned it into several properties ranging the width and breadth of the winemaking spectrum in both South Australia and New South Wales. One of the jewels in this crown would be the Balmoral Syrah produced in the McLaren Vale. Anyone who wants information on the discovery and formation of this part of South Australia, approximately 45 minutes drive north of Adelaide should read some of my earlier articles ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/02/penfolds-koonunga-hill-shiraz-cabernet.html ).

The winery in the McLaren in situated on three distinct areas that yield fruit of sufficient quality - the sandy loam soils near Blewitt Springs; the darker soils in McLaren Flat itself; and the red soils with underlying limestone found in the Seaview area (my thanks to www.TheWineDoctor.com ). The vines are generally between 50 and 100 years old, although sources say that there are still some patches over 100. By comparison, most vines in British Columbia are between 10 and 20 years old... the older the vines - the less they produce, but, the more concentrated the flavors. Most wineries will tear out vines before they reach 100 years old as they simply don't produce enough juice to be fiscal responsible. Bravo to the Bob Oatleys and (chief winemaker) Matt Kochs of the world~!

2002 Rosemount Estate "Balmoral" Syrah

$75 CAD ***** BUY THIS IF YOU CAN *****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

14.5% ABV

vineyard: 50 to 100 year old vines (small percentage over 100 years)

maturation: 24 months, American oak

visual: clear; fully intense violet-crimson core with slightest brick rim
nose: clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developed bouquet of drying red berries (red and black cherries, red and black raspberries, blackberries), rich white and slightly floral pink peppercorn, soft background of drying summer flowers, light savory herbaceousness, finish reminiscent of decadently rich dark cocoa
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (lively and brilliantly integrated red raspberry) acids, moderate (velvet soft and slightly chalky) tannins, moderate body, moderate alcohol, moderate+ intense and developed flavors that mimick the nose perfectly; the red berries burst on the palate with dark cocoa and peppercorn dominating the mid-palate and a ridiculously long finish of the American oak light vanilla notes and soft florals. EXCELLENT balance, structure and long long long length
conclusion: if you have cellared this properly, it is still drinking stupendously and will continue to do so for several years; enjoy this special wine present to 2015/17
FOOD PAIRINGS: I may be a heathen for this, but the depth of this wine's expression of terroir and varietal made me think to South Australian cuisine and culture, and I came up with braised lamb shank on caramelized shallot yam pave with olive oil fried arugula... the reasons for this are long and varied, but based upon drawing similarities from the food to the wine and vice-versa

As this was my first foray into Rosemount wines, I was duly impressed. I have nothing else to say other then that I can't wait to try more from the whole winemaking team.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

2011-08-07T12:17:00.000-07:00

So before I start to talk about Tinorn Creek winery again (www.Tinhorn.com), I think it's important to talk about Cabernet Franc; the much planted varietal that plays such a pivotal role in so many great red wine blends.

Cabernet Franc (courtesy Wikipedia)

Cabernet Franc is very closely related to Cabernet Sauvignon: in fact, Cab Franc is one of the parents. So what does this mean for flavor, color, aromas? Well of course there are going to be similarities; both are red wine varietals, both are deep in color though Cab Franc will be lighter in pigment (a trick to use in a blind tasting), both have the obvious red berry flavors though Cab Sauv will tend towards blackberry and plum and Cab Franc will tend towards (depending on where it's grown) raspberry and red currant and then for the aromas there are distinctive differences. Cab Franc has a unique vegetal quality which is accentuated by over-cropping and/or underexposure and will be perceived quite often as bell peppers and/or a "stemminess".

Now overcropping is something that any viticulturist can avoid if s/he wants to and is motivated towards. That being said, sometimes there are fiscal reasons for over-cropping and sometimes even viticulturists just don't care about quality - they care for quantity. Underexposure is a different matter altogether.

A winemaker can be motivated to the creation of quality wine, and yet the weather can choose not to co-operate (much like this Summer of 2011 in British Columbia).... by mid-August many winemakers and their vineyard managers are talking about being weeks behind schedule due to excessive cloud cover and mild temperatures. What to do? Well unfortunately, all the skill in the world can't fix something that goes awry in the vineyard.

Which brings us to one of the primary reasons why Cab Franc was planted and continues to be planted in the first place: it buds and ripens an easy week earlier then it's child Cab Sauv. One week may not seem like much difference, but in regions where late rains or hail are a reality, that week may make the difference between a successful harvest and a failure.

And where do we find great plantings of Cab Franc? Almost anywhere winemakers plant Cab Sauv and worry about not reaching phenolic ripeness; the Libournais region of Bordeaux (my much loved AOCs of St Emilion and Pomerol) and the Loire Valley of France, the north-east corner of Italy, parts of California and along the northern border of the United States, British Columbia, the Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County regions of Canada and throughout the New World.

So here in beautiful BC we are blessed with almost everything a winemaker could want, with the exception of a lengthy enough summer (in most places) for a winemaker to be able to "properly" cultivate Cab Sauv. What's a winemaker to do? Plant Cab Franc. This is done as insurance for the "Bordeaux-style" blendings for which we have garnered some recognition and, now, as a stand-alone single varietal- sometimes as a late-harvest wine and even as a rosé.

Tinhorn Creek is rather renown in British Columbia (and in Canada) for the quality of it's Cab Franc. To be completely honest though, the acknowledgements come not only for the quality - but for the absolutely reasonable price that they sell it for. Almost anyone these days can make a decent wine, given the right growing conditions... but it is a dying breed the winemaker who consistently sells a good product for a reasonable price.

2009 Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc

$19.99 at the winery *** Very Good Value ***

~~ For The Cellar ~~

14.8% ABV

viticulture: 100% from their Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench

maturation: 12 months in American oak barrels

awards:

2007 Cabernet Franc

SILVER Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, 2010
SILVER Taster’s Guild International Wine Judging, 2010
BRONZE Intervin International Wine Competition, 2009
BRONZE World Value Wine Competition, BTI, 2009

visual: clear; moderate bruised plum core with substantial cherry rim (slight amount of brick)
nose: clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red currants, early raspberries, savory herbs, green bell pepper, sweet wood notes
palate: clean; dry, moderate (well-integrated red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly green and grippy) tannins, moderate- body, moderate+ intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with pronounced savory vegetal notes, a long dry finish of red berries, dried mushrooms and sweet wood. Very good balance and structure, long length
conclusion: whilst this is already a good wine, it still needs some time to develop in bottle and become a great wine. Best (Fall) 2012-2016
FOOD PAIRINGS: I would work off the lighter body and almost delicate structure and use it much like a Burgundian Pinot Noir, pairing it with a traditional Bourguignon with wild BC mushrooms and local vension... I think the slightly vegetal quality will play well off of venison's gamey-ness, the wild mushrooms pull fungal qualities from the wine and the hint of cream and demi-glace balance the wine's moderate acids

Tinhorn's Diamondback vineyard

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Abuelo Anejo 7anos rum, Panama

2011-07-24T17:26:00.000-07:00

I love a good story... who doesn't? And what could be a better story then one of a stranger to a new land - defying the odds and making a success of himself?

In 1908 a young man by the name of Don Jose Varela Blanco landed in the newly established Republic of Panama by way of Spain. He ended up in the small town of Pese (population approximately 10,000) and opened the first sugar plantation amid the lush sugarcane fields rampant in that central part of the country. He did what many people (including myself) dream of: he opened a business, ran it well and started a family.

Fast forward almost 30 years and in 1936 Don Jose finally succumbed to the fervent wishes of his three sons (Jose Manuel, Plinio and Julio: los Hermanos Varela www.VarelaHermanos.com) and started the regions first sugarcane distillery.

Sugarcane has a long history in the Americas... turns out that Christopher Columbus brought sugarcane on his return visit and it turned into a massive cash crop virtually wherever it went. Sugarcane became such a commodity that France even traded part of what it controlled in my dear old Canada to the British Empire for their islands of Guadeloupe, Martinique and St. Lucia~!

Well times change, and sugar became overproduced and less of a commodity. It all came to a head for such countries as Cuba when the former Soviet Union dissolved and Cuba's sugar production found itself without a market. So what does one do with sugarcane when no one wants sugar? Make alcohol young man...

But alcohol isn't the only use... sugarcane actually gets used in non-alcoholic drinks, in food and candy, and nowadays in ethanol production. To wit - Brazil is the largest grower of sugarcane in the world and is also co-incidentally the largest producer of gasahol which is a blend of ethanol and gasoline.

Back to Abuelo rum and Varela Hermanos S.A., who made a name for themselves by creating a premium sugarcane spirit where before it had been rough and clumsy. The company, in it's third generation as a family owned and run business, now produces over 1,000,000 boxes of spirit annually or over 90% of the nation's liquer.

Now that's a good story.

Ron Abuelo Anejo 7-anos

$51 CAD (BC) *** Good Value ***

maturation: 7 years in small white oak barrels

visual: clear; light coppery-gold throughout
nose: clean; fully intense spice with orange zest, light clove notes and dried summer and exotic flowers... rich background of aged honey and light butterscotch... molasses is felt keenly
palate: clean; taste is reminiscent of a fine Scotch: light oaky-vanilla opens the palate to dried apple, dried florals and the faint buzz of orange peel in the background... the finish is smooth with a hint of spice sparking the tongue and a rich, robust earthiness. A sipper, I found the flavors turned to nothing quickly with too much ice and I much prefer this as a quality Scotch: neat. If you must add ice, let it be one cube only.
PAIRINGS: the sweetness in rum usually lends itself to certain types of cigars, but because to me this drinks like a Scotch then it must be paired with other cigars. Suggestions anyone??

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Zorzal Reserve, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina

2011-07-23T15:08:00.000-07:00

The Mendoza region in Argentina is no longer a region known only to South Americans and sommeliers... people the world over are rapidly coming to know the region's name as being synonymous with great quality Malbec, and usually for a great price as well.

Tupungato Department

But Mendoza is a huge region and with over 1200 wineries producing almost 2/3rds of Argentina's wine, people in the wine-industry are immersing themselves in the sub-regions of western Argentina where it boarders Chile and the Andes Mountains. One of these sub-regions calling for attention is Tupungato and the Valle de Uco.

Within the Valle de Uco is a new winery with high hopes. Zorzal winery (www.ZorzalWines.com) is the brain-child of Argentian wunderkinder winemakers Juan Pablo Michellini, his brother Maurizio and a small group of Calgarian investors. Zorzal books itself as being the highest elevation winery in all Mendoza at over 1300 metres. High elevation of course leads to the positive effects of cooler nights, greater differential in temperature between day and night and the (negative) possibility of under-ripened fruit.

But the fruit seem to be ripening just fine for Juan Pablo and Maurizio... Zorzal wines have been scoring very well in Argentina and around the world. At the 2010 Argentina wine awards, Zorzal wines were awarded a gold and bronze medal, as well as a trophy for their work with their Climax red blend. This came right on the heels of their showing at the Venus wine awards which saw them receiving both a gold medal and a double-gold. But it's not just South Americans taking note; the wine press was quite favorable in their review at the London Wine Festival 2011 as well.

Founded in 2007, Zorzal winery is a symbol of the dynamic growth happening in Mendoza today. The Tupungato Department where the winery is located is a small place; small in area and small in population. Named for the famous volcano rising out of the Andes, the population of Tupungato grew by an astounding 27% from 1991 to 2001. Why such staggering growth?

Zorzal winery

Viticulture.

Winemakers from the world over are excited about the possiblities in this region, and investors are literally lining up to cash in. This entire department is over 1000m, with little organic material in the rocky soil and an average rainfall less then 200 mm per year. What does all this mean?? It means wine-country, and Zorzal winery is proving that.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon - Malbec, Reserve
Zorzal estate winery, Tupungato, Mendoza

visual: clear; fully intense bruised plum core with slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of red and blue berries (red cherries, blueberries, slight black cherry, red raspberry and a hint of black raspberry), rich nuances of savory Mendoza herbs, light perfumed vanilla background
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (green, grippy) tannins, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose with prevelant red currant notes at the beginning and a distinct "Mendoza" savory herbaceousness and end notes of mocha and mild wintery spice. Medium+ body, Very good balance, Excellent structure, very good length
conclusion: this is a wine for the cellar... I don't think this starts to peak until 5 or 6 years old and so I would drink 2014-2019
PAIRINGS: once this wine has some age and is properly decanted, I would use this with lighter red meat dishes like coffee crusted CAB beef carpaccio with truffled aioli and grilled baguette

Zorzal winery

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

VistAlba Corte C by Carlos Pulenta, Mendoza, Argentina

2011-07-10T14:29:00.000-07:00

I've written about the Lujan de Coyo DOC of Mendoza, Argentina before... but am growing to learn more about this diverse area (as any good student should do).

I should start by saying that the province of Mendoza is a vast wine region. By comparison the province of British Columbia in Canada has approximately 210 wineries, yet Mendoza has over 1100. Yes, that's right: 1100 wineries producing more then 1 billion litres of wine; 70% of the total production of Argentina.

Wow.

courtesy Wikipedia: Lujan de Cuyo

Nestled in the north-west corner of Mendoza, situated against the mighty Cordón de Plata mountain range (and thus- Chile) is Lujan de Coyo DOC. I for one am glad that Mendoza/Argentina is smart enough to divide their intricate and infinite wine-region... it certainly makes my studies easier and more efficient, though I doubt they thought of me when they emulated the regional structure of France and the AOC system.

In Luyan de Coyo is an even smaller sub-region called VistAlba, and in this region a noted Argentian winemaker named Carlos Pulenta has set-up shop. Carlos' family has been involved in the wine industry here in Mendoza for generations, and Carlos himself was the former president and CEO of Salentein (a Dutch company with 3 bodegas). His recently constructed winery is constructed largely of marble, slate, inert concrete and dark woods and has received many favorable write-ups on it's architecture. Pulenta owns 53 hectares of red grapes around the winery, 80% of which is malbec planted in 1948 and the rest being more recent plantings of more Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda.

2008 VistAlba Corte C

Bodega VistAlba by Carlos Pulenta

15.1% ABV

$19 CAD (BC) *** Very Good Value ***

varietals: 78% Malbec, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Bonarda

maturation: 12 months in 20% new French oak (medium toast), 6 months in bottle at winery

visual: clear; fully intense deep purple core with slightest cherry/brick rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developing aromas of worn leather, drying black berries (currants, raspberries), lifted red berries (raspberries, cherries, strawberry), slight menthol-savory herb, soft dark floral
palate: clean; dry, medium+ (red currant) acids, medium+ to full (chalky and slightly green-grippy) tannins, medium+ body, medium+ to fully intense developing flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on cocoa and dark berries. Very good to excellent balance, very good structure, long- length
conclusion: 2008 is showing well, but would benefit from further aging. Drink 2013-2018
PAIRINGS: much like any Malbec blend, I would pair this wine with grilled red meat. Keep it simple to allow the rich aromatics of the wine to showcase, but use some fat to balance the relatively high acidity. Grilled ribeye steak with smoked seasalt and wild thyme butter

And so Carlos has returned to the family land and built himself something to be proud of. Not only a beautiful winery, with a 12-room inn and one of (if not the) most respected restaurants in the region: La Bourgogne. No, Carlos Pulenta and family haven't built a winery, they've created an experience.

As always, I look forward to hearing your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek vineyards, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

2011-07-03T14:57:00.000-07:00

I like to support local industry. I especially like supporting local industry when they are producing quality goods, but I love supporting local when they produce quality products in a responsible manner.

Let me introduce you to Tinhorn Creek vineyards (www.tinhorn.com).

Tinhorn creek is Canada's first carbon-neutral winery and, just as important, they produce quality wines. Sandra Oldfield is the newly appointed CEO and President of the winery, as well as wearing the hat of winemaker and so it truly is under the leadership and guidance of Sandra that Tinhorn Creek has become a fixture of BC winemaking.

2010 Pinot Gris

$18 ** Good Value **

Awards: SILVER - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011

Maturation: one third sur-lies for approximately 8-10 weeks, then blended with the rest. 100% stainless steel

nose: clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of dusty summer florals and orchardfruit with a light mineral backbone
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose. Good balance and structure, medium length
PAIRINGS: vibrant yet restrained acids made me think of a lighter flavored and less fatty fish such as our local shark; dogfish... try grilled shark with salsa verde and watch the grill bring dimension through contrast and the pungent herbaceousness of the salsa open the Pinot Gris naturally light herbal notes

2009 Chardonnay

$17 *** Very Good Value ***

Awards: SILVER - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010 JUDGES CHOICE International Value Wine Awards, Wine Access Magazine, 2010

Maturation: 28% in new French oak for 2-3 months

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas of buttery pear, light exotic fruit and grilled pineapple... very modern BC
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (very well balanced lemon zest) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose in a cool-climate manner... refreshing~! Very good balance and structure, medium length
PAIRINGS: with the acidity and nuanced buttery/exotic/stonefruit flavors my mind immediately went to roast turkey with white-truffled chestnuts and perhaps a savory focaccia, sage and apple stuffing... but that's just me

2010 Gewurztraminer

$18 *** Very Good Value ***

maturation: 4 weeks stainless steel

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and youthful traditional aromas: rich rosehips, lush lychee, grapefruit marmalade, apricot coulis
palate: clean; dry, fully intense (very well integrated green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking well the nose. Very good balance and structure, medium length
PAIRINGS: the rich flavors and strong structure allow this wine to be paired with stronger flavored foods, whilst the natural fruitiness will soften spicy food... consider this as a natural not only with Vietnamese or Thai foods, but also East Indian food from any number of regions (from vindaloo to tiki masala)... for myself I thought of grilled chicken with spicy peanut and cilantro dipping sauce

2008 2-bench white

$23 *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

AwardsSILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010

varietals: 44% Chardonnay, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Semillon, 12% Viognier, and 1% Muscat

maturation: Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in a stainless steel tank by itself, Semillon and Viognier were co-fermented together in stainless steel as were the Chardonnay and Muscat

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of papaya, ripe stonefruit, gala apples, strawberries and dried raisins
palate: clean, dry, moderate+ to fully intense (green apple and lemon balm) acids, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure with a long length
PAIRINGS: although this layering in this wine would do well with the lighter green curried dishes, my mind went to Provencal bouillabaise with slight spicy rouille and grilled flatbread

Kenn at work in the field

Sandra's husband, Kenn Oldfield chairman, owner and co-founder of Tinhorn Creek, started his career in Alberta working the oilfields. Not much to do with wine, but it must have given him the passion to work with something sustainable and more picturesque then Northern Alberta tarsands. Kenn worked 14 years in the oil industry before turning his attention to wine and by 1994 had taken all the courses necessary for a Master's degree in viticulture from the University of California at Davis.

Sandra just happens to be originally from California and it was here that she got her first taste of the industry - working at the noted Rodeney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma. Sandra eventually came back from her new home in BC and finished her Master's of Enology from UC Davis as well. Together, husband and wife have a powerful amount of learning, but it is perhaps their tie with their land that sets them most apart.

Many champions of great winemaking will talk about the necessity of working with their land; of the harmonious co-existence that should take place between viticulturist and vineyard. Sandra and Kenn have done more then talk about it.

TLC, The Land Conservancy has recognized their work in creating a balanced ecosystem where everyone and everything is taken as having importance. Indigenous flora has been replanted in the vineyard to allow the natural system of the terroir to function as it should, and animal corridors have been created as well. Tinhorn Creek has even taken the effort to source 90% of their bottles from within 500 km (a short distance in Canadian terms) and of that, 35-50% is recycled glass.

2008 Pinot Noir

$20 *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

maturation: old French oak 10 months, 24 months in bottle

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developing bouquet of dry dusty soil, layers of cherries, light herbaceousness and fungal-mushroomy notes... slightly spicy finish
palate: clean, dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick well the nose. Excellent balance and structure with medium+ length
PAIRINGS: Pinot Noir can be said to have one true food partner, and to me that is boeuf bourguignon... I would pair mine with spicy parmesan crisps

2008 Merlot

$18 *** Very Good Value ***

AwardsGOLD - All Canadian Wine Championships, 2011
GOLD - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010
SILVER - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
SILVER - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - New World International Wine Competition, 2011
SILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Pacific Rim International Wine Compeition, 2011
BRONZE - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011
Honourable Mention - International Wine & Spirit Competition, 2011
TOP100 - Vancouver Magazine Wine Awards, 2011

maturation: new to 3-year old French oak for 12 months

nose: clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing bouquet of cherries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, red and black currants, dry dusty soil, slightly hot cinnamon-peppery finish
palate: clean, dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with a restrained mushroom-fungal note. Good balance, Very good structure and long- length
PAIRINGS: good merlot needs good steak~~ I would grill a simple striploin and finish with an herbed butter and a Chiliwack corn salsa

2007 Oldfield Series Merlot

$25 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

AwardsGOLD - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - All Canadian Wine Competition
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2010
BRONZE - BC Wine Awards, 2010

varietals: 92% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Syrah

maturation: 8 months in 100% French oak (new to two year old), then 15 months in bottle

nose: clean; fully intense and developing bouquet of red and black cherries, strawberry compote, red and black currants, black roses, strong terroir
palate: clean, dry, moderate+ intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (very well integrated chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with the finish of old leather and light tobacco. Excellent balance and structure with long length
PAIRINGS: I said that a good merlot needs a good steak, and thus greatness deserves greatness: spend the money and buy the best ribeye or prime-rib you can... free-range, local, organic, Kobe if you can find it... then grill it with a hint of olive oil and sea-salt. That's it... maybe a piece of parsley for garnish **grin**

Tinhorn vines in autumn

I certainly do believe that supporting local industry is important for sustainable business to take place. That being said, I don't believe in supporting local just for the sake of supporting local. Local businesses, to me, need to provide a commodity that is competitive on a global level. Tinhorn Creek is doing that, and doing it in an environmental responsible manner. Tinhorn Creek has my business.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Silk Scarf winery (portfolio tasting), Summerland, Okanagan Valley DVA

2011-06-26T17:23:00.000-07:00

It's become a yearly pilgrimage for me; to visit the Silk Scarf winery in Summerland (www.SilkW.net) and talk wine for a couple of hours with Roie, the owner and winemaker.

Roie is a patient man, to be certain... he took the time to talk about his wines with me before I started school, then just after my Sommelier level 1 course, and then again after my Sommelier Level 2... each time taking the time it needed to answer my ever-developing questions and comments. I don't know that I've always had the patience with my customers at the Fox's Reach Liquor Store http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/ (where I have been Product Consultant for the past few months).

This Spring Roie and I sat again, with a multitude of wines, and sipped - and chatted - and sipped some more. I used to think that Roie's wines were world-class, but that was before I went to school for a year and a half... now I know they are.

2010 Ensemble Blanc
$22 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

varietals: Alsatian blending of Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Muscat (less then 1%)

nose: clean; fully intense developing bouquet of Bing cherries, honeyed red raspberries, rich summer florals and exotic fruit (some pineapple, guava and papaya)
palate: clean; moderate+ (cranberry/raspberry) acids, moderate+ developing flavors that mimick the nose. Superb balance, excellent structure and medium+ length
conclusion: very well made wine that drinks well now to 2015. Will not develop further in bottle
PAIRINGS: although the exotic floral notes in this wine would play well off of a variety of seafood dishes (paella certainly) - I immediately wanted to play off the dominant cherry notes (and there are layers of cherries in this wine) by serving it with duck; a simple roast duck with savory herbs and potato galette was my initial instinct

2010 Viognier

$22 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****
gold medal: 2010 All Canadian Wine Championship

nose: clean; fully intense developing bouquet of summer meadow flowers and layer upon layer of ripe stonefruit (apricot, peaches, nectarines, plums)
palate: clean; moderate+ intense (apricot) acids, moderate+ to fully intense developing flavors that mimick the nose with pronounced long cherry notes. Excellent balance and structure, and long, long length on the palate
conclusion: drinks superbly now to 2015. Will not develop further in bottle
PAIRINGS: rich exotic flavors and slight sweetness pair perfectly with traditional Thai and Vietnamese food... especially coconut and Thai basil braised chicken over red curry rice

2010 Riesling Muscat
12.5% ABV
$22 *** Very Good Value ***

varietals: 96% Riesling, 4% Muscat

nose: clean; moderate intensity and youthful aromas of early stonefruit, light minerality, young orchardfruit and cherry blossoms
palate: clean; moderate+ (sour cherry) acids, moderately intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure, medium length
conclusion: very good wine that drinks well 2012-2018 (and beyond). Will improve with aging until 2015 (and longer)
PAIRINGS: crisp and slightly tart, this wine is a natural for schnitzel, whether it be pork, veal or even chicken... I would prefer a pork schnitzel (for the fat) and finish it with a non-traditional Indian curry sauce

2010 Chardonnay
12% ABV
$22 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****
only 800 cases produced

maturation: 100% steeltank.

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas of classic (refined) Californian style Chardonnay with it's grilled pineapple, caramels and exotic fruit layering (mango, papaya, lychee)
palate: clean; moderate (crisp and lively apricot marmalade) acids, moderately intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ length
conclusion: drinks well now to 2016(+). May develop slightly over the next couple of years
PAIRINGS: all of these flavors take me back to an Irish chef I used to know who made the best butter braised rabbit on fresh farfalle pasta with wild thyme... the buttery rabbit is going to balance the lively acids and the wild thyme contrasts against the exotic fruit

2010 Saignee (rose)
$22 ***** BUY THIS NOW *****

varietals: 65% Syrah, 35% Merlot

nose: clean; light+ to medium intensity youthful aromas of rose petals, cherry blossoms with a distinct mineral backbone
palate: moderate+ (crisp, lively cranberry) acids, moderate+ intense youthful yet incredibly well integrated flavors mimicking the nose with nuances of orange zest and tangerine. Excellent balance and structure with long length
conclusion: drink now. drink often. drinks well now -2015, but will most likely not develop much further in bottle
PAIRINGS: Roie from Silk Scarf enjoys this with smoked salmon, and as he has had it many more times then I have, how can I argue? As for myself, I agree that this pairs well with fattier seafood; I was thinking more along the lines of grilled BC dungeoness crab... this wine will love flavors that come from the grill

2008 Ensemble Red
12.5% ABV

$38   *** Very Good Value ***

varietals:   Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc
maturation:   18 months in 60% French and 40% American oak (first generation)

nose: clean; fully intense and developing aromas of bold spicy Cab Franc to open followed by rich red berries (raspberry, strawberry), old leather, some dried berries (blueberry) and a slightly herbaceous finish
palate: clean; fully intense (sour cherry) acids, fully intense (grippy) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure with medium+ length
conclusion: very good wine that's a bit too young to drink well... drinks well 2013-2020++. Will continue to develop in bottle until 2015
PAIRINGS: a natural for baron of roast beef with rosemary and sage au jus and garlic-chevre mashed potato

2008 Shiraz
13.5% ABV

$38 *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ****

fermentation: on 3% Viognier skins (Cote Rotie style)

nose: clean; moderately intense developing aromas of light cocoa and coffee, dark berries (blackberry and saskatoon), finish of dark florals (iris, black roses)
palate: clean; fully intense (sour cherry-cranberry) acids, full- (chewy, silty) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance, excellent structure and long length
conclusion: still quite young for this wine... drinks well 2013-2020. Will continue to develop in the bottle at least until 2015
PAIRINGS: a natural pairing for venison... save this for the Fall and a braised venison shank with red-wine demi-glace and potato croquette with a rosemary-walnut crust

2008 Cabernet Franc
13.5% ABV

$33 ***** BUY THIS NOW *****

nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developing bouquet of red and black berries, rich earthy-mineral terroir, old worn leather
palate: clean; moderately intense (sour cherry) acids, moderate+ (chewy) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Excellent balance and structure with long, long length
conclusion: already drinking well, this wine will continue to develop in bottle until 2015 and will hold until 2020 (possibly longer)
PAIRINGS: a rich, bold wine that has enough elegance to sit beside a traditional Osso Bucco Milanese complete with the saffron risotto and white truffle shavings

A really wonderful way to spend part of an afternoon, and Summerland is quite a lovely spot to share some wine at any time of year. Silk Scarf now has food service during the summer months as well; with a menu focused on fresh, local, seasonal components that truly showcase themselves and the wines they are paired with.

If you still have any doubts as to whether or not you should make the time to stop in and visit Roie or his ever-cheerful wife, just take another look at their website and count the awards they have garnered over the past half-dozen years or recognize some of the restaurants who chose to give Silk Scarf winery a place of honor on their winelists.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Hainle Vineyards Estate Winery (reds), Peachland Appellation

2011-06-25T22:06:00.000-07:00

So now I'll talk a little about the Hainle Vineyards red wines; not all of them of course, as Walter has an impressive array of wines (in all colors), but the ones I got a chance to try. Mrs AStudentofWine and I ended up spending most of an afternoon back at Hainle (www.Hainle.com) and had a great conversation with Walter.

2009 Z3

12.5% ABV

$24.90 *** Very Good Value ***

varietals: Zweigelt, Baco Noir, Pinot Noir

visual: clear; deep purple/ruby core with the slightest cherry rim
nose: clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas; dark perfumed floral notes (irises and roses), cherry blossoms, red currants, stewed plums, red and black raspberries
palate: fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate+ (silky) tannins, moderate+ youthful flavors mimicking the nose with pronounced cocoa finish. Very good balance and structure, medium+ length
conclusion: quite young: cellar this for best results - drink 2015-2020++
PAIRINGS: while I wanted to play this wine off of it's merits from the Pinot Noir, Walter was quick to mention that this had received a silver medal at an Oyster Festival... Zweigelt and oysters? Apparently it's a natural~!

What is Zweigelt you ask? A natural question as it has only very, very recently come into existance and more recently into the public's eye. This is a cross between Blaufrankish and St Laurent developed in 1922 to bud later then the latter and ripen earlier then the former... with generous yields and a natural resistance to cold - this varietal is quickly catching on in cooler climates like Canada. In Austria it started gaining popularity with Professor Lenz Moser who made large plantings of it, and now Zweigelt is the most planted red-varietal in that country.

Zweigelt produces wines ranging from easy-drinking blends to single-vineyard that are capable of aging and great development. Austria, of course, has some very old vines already (over 60 years) and some of these wines are being hailed for their depth, nuanced finesse and longevity. In general, Zweigelt has deep pigment, bright acidity and full tannins.

2006 Zweigelt

13% ABV

$40 *** Very Good Value ***

visual: clear; moderate garnet core with cherry rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developing; port-like characteristics of dried berries, figs, aged honey and a distinct savory herb finish
palate: clean; fully intense (cranberry) acids, moderate (slightly grippy) tannins, moderately intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance, EXCELLENT structure, long length
conclusion: just starting to drink well now; drinks 2013-2020+
PAIRINGS: the savory qualities lend themselves naturally to venison, consider a flank steak which sears quickly and thus retains it's moisture and finish with a beurre blanc

2003 Zweigelt reserve

12.6% ABV

$140 **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

varietals: 60% Zweigelt, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon

visual: clear; light garnet core with medium orange/brick rim
nose: moderate+ intense and developing aromas with port-like and madiera-like qualities (the same dried berries, figs, honey and slight savory herbs) but this also a rich baked-earth and dark cocoa finish
palate: clean; fully intense (well-integrated cranberry) acids, moderate (soft, chewy) tannins, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with incredibly rich dark cocoa notes. Excellent balance and structure, long+ length
conclusion: this wine is still just a babe; drinks best 2018-2030 and beyond
PAIRINGS: with the finesse on this rich wine I would want to serve it with a beef carpaccio; the richness of beef is a natural for port/madiera flavors and I would want it raw for emphasis. Perhaps I would serve it with grilled bread as well, as the grill flavors will play off the berry notes through contrast

2003 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
13.5% ABV
$60 **** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ****

varietals: 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc
winner~!!! 3 years in a row: People's Choice Award, Kelowna

visual: clear; moderate+ garnet core with rich orange/brick rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developing bouquetof buttery red raspberries, black raspberries, light cassis, rich savory spices such as clove and allspice
palate: clean; moderate+ (well integrated cranberry and red raspberry) acids, moderate (soft chewy) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance, excellent structure, long length
conclusion: drinking well soon~! drinks 2015-2025+
PAIRINGS: stunning steak wine ~ with the acids as high as they are I would want a steak with some fat like a ribeye, perhaps with a roast garlic jam to accompany

On a personal note, I bought a bottle of this wine myself - to keep downstairs for a few years because I honestly don't think that I would be able to buy a wine of this quality - for this price - when it has matured properly.

2003 Syrah (unfiltered)
12.7% ABV
$60 **** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ****

visual: clear with slight sediment; deep garnet core with moderate cherry-brick rim
nose: clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing aromas with rich port qualities and a truffled mushroom earthiness, baked Saskatoon pie
palate: clean; fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate (soft chewy) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with long worn leather nuances and berry compote. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure and long length
conclusion: drinking well now; will develop to 2017/18, drink 2011-2023+
PAIRINGS: even though the acids were high, this is a refined enough wine that I thought of pairing it with a beef tenderloin with wild thyme and pink peppercorn compound butter... try searing the tenderloin in duck fat if you can find it at your local butcher's

2007 reserve Pinot Noir
12.8% ABV
$80 ***** BUY THIS WHEN AND IF YOU CAN *****

maturation: 40 months in 4th generation French oak (from Opus1)

visual: clear; moderate ruby core with cherry (and the slightest brick) rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developing aromas of rich earthy terroir, nuanced fungal notes (wild mushrooms and white truffle), pink peppercorns, light red berries, distinct herbaceous undertones
palate: clean; moderate+ (superbly integrated cranberry) acids, moderate+ (soft, silty) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with nuances of smoked meat, real beef jerky, stewed black raspberries and black cherries. Excellent balance and structure with long, long length on the palate
conclusion: can be enjoyed now to 2030, will continue to develop in the bottle until 2020
PAIRINGS: what goes better with a Burgundian style Pinot Noir then Boeuf Bourguignon???

It should be noted that even though this Pinot Noir was in oak for 40 months (an unheard-of long length of time), Walter took it to a competition within a month of bottling it... his wine was up against 450 other Pinots from around the world; some of the finest winemakers in the world competing. Guess who got first place? That's right... the German winemaker from Peachland appellation~!

Walter has told me that he will only sell a few cases a year for the next few years, as he doesn't think it's really ready to enjoy.... rated 99 points, but not quite good enough for Walter because it needs "just a bit more time". So if you want to try it, you'll have to go up to the winery and ask him nicely. Very very nicely.

Later that afternoon, as a special treat, Walter opened a back-vintage of Icewine. Walter of course knew that my wife was pregnant and not drinking (we had spent two afternoons together by this point), but he insisted on pouring a small glass and handing it to her, saying "for a thousand years women in Germany have been drinking Riesling when they are with child... "

She couldn't refuse, and about five minutes later I heard a little giggle from my wife "Clare likes it~!"

Apparently the littlest sommelier (Clare) has something of a fondness for Hainle Icewine (along with the population of China, where celebrities will appear in his tv ads for free).

1984 Riesling Icewine

12.9% ABV

$900 this wine is an experience

visual: clear; deep umber-amber caramel core moving to watery rim
nose: clean; fully intense (and still developing) bouquet of Solera system, dried raisins, butterscotch, salt water toffee, toasted almonds and a light brine-mineral undertone
palate: clean; fully intense (apricot) acids, fully intense and still developing flavors that mimic well the nose with the additions of apricot compote, tangerine zest, grapefruit marmalade and quince. Stunning balance and structure, ridiculously long length
conclusion: should you be lucky enough to have a bottle of this, it can be enjoyed now but will continue to develop in bottle for decades. Drink 2010-2050 (and possibly longer)
PAIRINGS: Icewine is difficult for some people to pair food with... keep it simple to let the wine showcase: consider a Perigordine (http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-make-french-perigordine-walnut-cake) which is like a walnut-angel food cake... garnish with a slightly tart raspberry coulis

Quite the list of wines to go through, and I really do feel fortunate to have had so much of Walter's time and patience. I had no idea, before a few months ago, that anyone in British Columbia (or even Canada) was making wines on this level. Now that I know - I'm filled with a confidence that just about anything is possible in our industry.

No one would have believed, even 10 years ago, that a winemaker from BC would make Pinot Noir that could beat the Burgundians at their own game. Well, the times have changed~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Hainle Vineyard Estate Winery (whites), Peachland Appellation, BC

2011-06-19T17:58:00.000-07:00

As many of you know, I was recently enamoured with the Hainle (Deep Creek vineyards) 2003 Pinot Blanc... a stunning example that revolutionized the way that I approach BC wines (http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/03/hainle-vineyards-peachland-okanagan.html). Well as fate would have it, Mrs AStudentofWine and I were up in the Peachland area a few weeks ago and so made the time to stop at Hainle and do a portfolio tasting.

Little did I know the size of the portfolio or I would have delegated more time (lol)~!

Hainle Vineyard Estate Winery (www.Hainle.com) is certified organic and partially bio-dynamic. What does this mean to the winemaker? Organic viticulture means the winery farms it's grapes without the use of artificial chemicals (pesticides, fertilizers and the like). Biodynamic viticulture follows the practices of Rudolph Steiner and the Demeter Association (www.Demeter.net) who advocate a "holistic" approach to grape-farming that believes strongly in a close association (spiritually) with the earth. For more information on bio-dynamic practices, please check out their website.

So what does this mean for you the consumer? Firstly it means that there is less of an impact on the earth itself during the farming process... chemicals (as we have all discovered) have a way of sticking in the earth until they latch themselves onto our food. From the food the chemicals will of course go into us; even the Romans learned their lesson from using lead-lining for their water aquaducts. When we will as a culture learn that spraying our food (and soon-to-be-drink) with chemicals is not in our best interest?

But there is more to organic viticulture then just the "chemical-or-organic" issue. What about the actually winemaking process itself, during which the addition of sulphites is neccessary (most would say) to prolong the life of the wine and allow it to mature, rather then age? In organic winemaking, the addition of sulphites is not allowed, meaning that usually organic wines need to be consumed within only a few years of being bottled.

Hainle Estate wines are different.

Walter Huber explained to me that he has come to the realization that he should stop releasing his white wines until they are 5 to 7 years old, and his red wines until they are 7 to 10 years old. I will certainly understand if your jaw just hit the floor (as mine certainly did when he told me this). Not only is this exceedingly rare in the organic winemaking world, but just as rare in the world of British Columbia winemaking. But then again, Walter is a rare winemaker.

Few and far between are the winemakers whose family roots go back in viticulture to the 1100s. Walter even explained to me how he is now reading and re-reading his grandfathers personal journal on viticulture and winemaking that he compiled at the end of his 50 years in the industry. A rare treasure for anyone to have.

And so here are the white wines that I tasted on my first day at Hainle... as I was having such a great time and enjoying my conversations with Walter so much - I ended up having to return the next day to taste reds!!

THE WHITES

2007 Gewurztraminer-Sauvignon Blanc

13.2% ABV, $20 *** Very Good Value ***

fermentation: stainless steel, extended time sur-lie

nose: clean; fully intense and developing of orchardfruit and stone fruit
palate: clean; fully intense (vibrant chokecherry) acids, fully intense and developing flavors which mimick well the nose. Very good structure and balance with long length
conclusion: far too young to truly enjoy now, I will save this and drink 2014-2020 (and possibly beyond)
PAIRINGS: a natural for pork cutlets ar even cold smoked duck~!

2007 (Zweigelt) Rose

13.5% ABV, $23 *** Very Good Value ***

fermentation: stainless steel, 7 months sur-lie

nose: clean; medium+ intense and developing with rich red berry notes, rhubarb compote and an earthy (almost mushroom-like) background
palate: clean, fully intense (sharp/aggressive cranberry) acids, medium+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose, Good balance, very good structure and long length
conclusion: whilst still young, this wine will drink well 2012-2015 and beyond
PAIRINGS: the delicate structure is a natural for poached white fish, such as poached with mushrooms and fresh tarragon (a French speciality)

2003 Riesling

(Johannesberg clone)

12.5% ABV, $40 **** EXCELLENT Value ****

fermentation: stainless steel, 7 months sur-lie

nose: clean; fully intense and developed bouquet in an incredibly Germanic style; diesel and plastic notes throughout with and end of slightly burnt honey and a lifted floral background
palate: medium intensity (flawlessly integrated lime) acids, medium intensity and developed flavors that mimick the nose (rich honey notes abound with a strong mineral backbone, varied citrus flavors and faint summer floral). Excellently balance and structure with medium+ to long length on the palate
conclusion: drinking well now, this wine has stunning potential to drink to 2020 and further
PAIRINGS: a natural counterpoint for the richness of raclette, this wine will bring balance to larger oysters as well and would do well with Oysters Rockefeller (oysters poached in cream with steamed spinach and crispy double-smoked bacon)

2007 Sauvignon Blanc

14.4% ABV, $27 *** Very Good Value ***

vines: planted in 2000

fermentation: small portion in old French oak, majority in stainless steel

nose: clean; fully intense and very young (developing) fume blanc style; notes of straw, hay, lemongrass and dried apples
palate: fully intense (lemon/lime) acids, medium+ intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose (rich apple flavors balance the citrus with an understated mineral backbone). Good balance, very good structure and long length
conclusion: best if you wait; this wine drinks well 2015-2020
PAIRINGS: the richness of Canadian Whitefish with a cream sauce would play well off the vibrant acids, but let this age and it would be a marvel with roast turkey and white-truffle chestnuts

2004 G2 Gewurztraminer-Riesling

12.5% ABV, $21.50 **** EXCELLENT Value ****

proportions: 55% Gewurztraminer

vines: Riesling planted 1972, possibly the oldest in North America

fermentation: stainless steel, 9 months sur-lie

nose: clean; fully intense and developed aromas of Germanic styled Riesling with the expected petrol-diesel-plastic notes and a delicate summer floral end
palate: clean; medium+ intense (lemon zest) acids, medium intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with rich dried apple and long integrated mineral notes, Very good balance, Excellent structure, Long length on the palate
conclusion: drinking well now and until 2020 (possibly 2025)
PAIRINGS: rich flavors pair well with richly flavored food - I immediately wanted to try this with a grilled Pacific dogfish (which is our local shark) and would have finished it with a sun-dried tomato and organic Italian parsley salsa. Loads of flavors, but this wine has dimension and balance and can handle alot from the food.... heavy grill flavors especially will bring a synergy to the wine

K1 - Kuitpo Vineyard by Geoff Hardy

2011-06-11T15:45:00.000-07:00

Bec Hardy

The first time I met Bec Hardy (daughter of Geoff) I knew it was going to be difficult not to like her... Bec has a gentle strength about her; a calm determination that could seem aggressive if it weren't for the brilliantly warm smile that seems a permanent part of her demeanor.

Bec and I met as she and her new husband were taking a week's honeymoon to do business with with Opimian society (www.opim.ca). Bec was making a whirlwind tour of Canada, with 5 stops in 5 different cities in 7 days (much like a rock-star?). I was fortunate enough to share about an hour with her at the prestigious Teahouse restaurant in Stanley Park, Vancouver (www.VancouverDine.ca), her last stop before returning home to K1 vineyards in South Australia.

Bec and I took the opportunity to discuss K1 vineyards' approach to several topics including how and why they choose their varietals, the development of the Asian wine market and the challenges of competitive pricing in a depressed global economy.

Geoff Hardy began K1 vineyards (www.K1.com.au) in the hills above Adelaide in 1987 with 30 acres of what was then considered by some to be "unsuitable land" for viticulture. Geoff was not to be swayed however and though it was untested land, Geoff had been active in the field since earning his diploma in Wine Production in 1977 and knew to trust his instincts. Geoff was certain that this (relatively) high altitude area would give a "cool-climate feel" to his wines.

Geoff planted Chardonnay, Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, for the white varietals and Pinot Noir, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Temperanillo and Tannat for the reds in the early 1990's. An impressive array of varietals for a winery that produces 8,000 cases per year. Geoff was ambitious however, and though he splits his time between consulting for wineries throughout the world and maintaining his role as General Manager, by the year 2005, Geoff had managed to introduce Viognier, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Gruner-Vetliner and Arnais.

Gruner-Vetliner or GruVe is a subject of some passion for Bec Hardy as she talks about the work that her family is doing. GruVe really is a newcomer to the Australian market, with the very first planting happening in 2004 and the Hardy family coming in second in 2005. Native to Austria, where over 30% of all plantings are Gruner, this varietal produces crisp white wines with vibrant acidity and (when made well) a rich and nuanced light floral bouquet. Bec and I agreed that no one in the wine industry would have taken the notion seriously even ten years ago: that someone would plant Austria's most prized varietal in Australia? And that it would turn out so well? And that Australians would go absolutely wacko for it, drinking it faster then anyone can produce it?

Well everyone is taking it seriously now.

And what about Pinot Noir, the heart-break grape? Once again, Australia wasn't renown for the finesse of this wine but Geoff Hardy used his accumulated 5 generations of winemaking skill to plant at over 300m, where the cooling breezes from the Gulf of Saint-Vincent moderate daytime temperatures. Bec says that her father is partial to the Pommard varietal which produces a lighter, more elegant style of wine and is best enjoyed at least a year after bottling (but Bec prefers it after 3 to 4 years). True enough, whilst this Pinot can't be compared to the wines of Beaune, Geoff is releasing product that is impressive in it's texture and balance and is a stunning value for the price.

And what of the emerging wine market that no one believed in 10 or 15 years ago? Asia is insatiable in it's desire for wines of quality these days. Gone are the days when the only thing that sold was Icewine - now winemakers from around the world are sending their best in everything they do. It's important to remember that Asia is still an emerging market however, and are easily swayed by big names...

Luckily for the Hardy family, they have that legacy. K1 vineyards sells approximately 20% of it's yearly inventory to Canada and all of it through the Opimian society. "Why?" I asked Bec, "Why would you choose to sell to the other side of the world?"

I think it's because the Hardy's have a fondness for the Canadian market. Because we "get" them. We understand the Hardy's dogged determination to pull something beautiful from the dusty soil... most of us are first or second-generation Canadians and know what it's like to start something from scratch - with grand ambitions and high hopes. It's a struggle. For any farmer anywhere in the world, it's a daily struggle and Canadians are linked closely with the land. We know what the Hardy's must go through to bring such understated elegance to the bottle and for such reasonable pricepoints.

And isn't it nice to be able to say that? In this day and age, when some winemakers charge exorbitant fees for wines that are hardly worth the price of admission - that a winemaking family now in it's 6th generation is willing to do the math necessary to charge a price based on the costs of production. I love a good Bordeaux vintage as much (or more) then the next man, but when wines reach $1000/bottle I find it hard to believe that the price is based on anything other then greed (and supply vs demand). It's much easier, I imagine, to simply calculate the cost of making a wine one year - and then charge what the market will bear based on that original cost... it's certainly easier, but it means alot to me that K1 is willing to do the math every year.

And what it means is that every year I will be going back to K1 releases with excitement and anticipation; whether it be to try a "cool-climate" Australian Chardonnay (a brilliant innovation that is bringing life back to Australian Chardonnay sales), or a classic Cab-Shiraz blend from their McLaren Vale property - the Hardy family is proving that in the world of winemaking, family businesses are worth supporting.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Inniskillin Discovery Series Zinfandel, Okanagan Valley DVA

2011-05-22T15:24:00.000-07:00

Zinfandel is one of the earliest recorded grape varietals for viticulture in the world... anthropologists have discovered evidence that places the first Zinfandel wines at approximately 6000 BC.

Six millenia of winemaking using just one varietal would lead one to think that it must be an incredibly popular varietal. Why haven't you heard of it before? Well it all likelihood it's because Zinfandel wasn't always and isn't always called by that name. In the Puglia region of southern Italy it's known as Primitivo, and it Croatia (from whence it is believed to have originated) it is known by the impressive title Crljenak Kaštelanski. And that's just the main names; Zinfandel actually has over 20 synonyms many of which bear absolutely no resemblance to the original.

So what's the story behind this grape? Well Zinfandel is thought to have been brought across to North America from Austria when the Austrian Empire held territory in Croatia (early 1800's). At that time, much American viticulture was centered around the Boston area (yes seriously) and done in greenhouses. And so began the American saga of the mighty Zin which went on to be planted to much success in California in the mid-1800's and then ripped out during the Prohibition Era of the 1920's and then replanted during the great growth period of Californian winemaking in the 1970's and 80's.

But who would think it would grow well in British Columbia? A serious question, worthy of serious consideration and a serious answer: No One. That's right, no one. When winemaking truly began to flourish in British Columbia in the 1990's, and the growth of new wineries was so remarkable that even the mighty John Schriener (http://johnschreiner.blogspot.com/) is known to have said on more then one occasion "It's growing so fast that even I find it hard to keep up." At that point in BC's winemaking - no one believed that Zinfandel could truly be grown to any great success in this climate.

Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos, British Columbia

No one should have told that to Inniskillin wineries *(www.Inniskillin.com) or their winemaker in the Okanagan Valley, Sandor Mayer. Vincor, which owns Inniskillin wineries, planted their first Zin vines at the Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos in 1999 and in 2002 they released their very first (small lot) vintage through their Discovery Series. The Discovery Series was started, in their words, with the express purpose of cultivating grape varietals not typically grown in the Okanagan. These releases are usually small in nature, and designed more to enlighten us to possibilities rather then a money-making scheme (in my eyes).

Well, although this wine is much more in keeping with a cold-climate wine then the fully intense flavors I'm used to from California's Santa Clara Mountains AVA, or the Dry Creek AVA, it is full of nuanced flavors, structure and balance. This is certainly it's own rendition of a classic grape passed down to us from the dusty past, and one that I'm very glad Inniskillin wineries and Sandor Mayer have taken the time to - discover again.

2005 Inniskillin Okanagan "Discovery Series" Zinfandel
www.Inniskillin.com

$29 CAD *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

vine age: 10 years

fermentation: on the skins for 14 days

maturation: 11 months in 60% French and 40% American oak

production: 550 cases

visual: clear; fully intense garnet core with substantial cherry/brick rim
nose: clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of worn leather, dried blackberries and black raspberries, pink peppercorn and light Thai chili spice, some warm winery spice like baked cinnamon
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (red and black currant) acids, moderate (slightly green and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and developed flavors that mimick well the nose with especially focus on the red and black currants, and soft cherry end notes. Very good balance and structure, medium- length
conclusion: if you have it - drink it now. The winemaker has stated that he believes this wine was best before 2010, but I find it still has some life left in it, just not for long. Lively acids, but the tannins are dying and the concentration is fading. Drink before the end of summer 2011
PAIRINGS: rich red wine for rich red meat. Consider any of your braised meat dishes like beef stroganoff as the cream will soften the acids and the fresh dill will bring a fading wine back to life

Primitivo, Zinfandel, I don't think it much matters what you call it.... people around the world have been enjoying this wine for thousands of years, and now BC winemakers are starting to let the terroir here express itself in a new and exciting way; through a venerable and well deserving grape. Thanks again Inniskillin ~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Cantina di Venosa, Aglianico

2011-05-21T17:32:00.000-07:00

Aglianico is one of those rare and slightly obscure varietals that too infrequently make the light of day in a place like Vancouver, British Columbia, over 9000 km away.

Aglianico is both the name for the volcanic soil and the grape which is grown to greatest success upon it... indeed, the most prized vineyards in the province of Potenza, Italy are in the Vulture area; standing in the shadow of the extinct volcano by the same name. And Aglianico has been grown here for not just years, or even centuries, but millenia: thousands of years. Originating in Greece (presumably), the grape has had a long and illustrious career here in the south of Italy, even becoming part of the world's original First Growth wine: Falernian.

Now Aglianico has found a new champion in Cantina di Venosa, a co-operative started in the 1950's in the Aglianico del Vulture D.O.C. which gained it's D.O.C. status in 1971. The grape is certainly the backbone of their production as the vineyards have an unobstructed view of the not-so-distant volcano. Since the 50's the co-operative has grown from only a handful of members to over 500, and yet has remained true to it's original mandate of preserving quality over quantity, and protecting the uniqueness of their prized varietal.

2007 Vignali Aglianico del Vulture D.O.C.

$30 CAD (not widely available) *** Very Good Value ***

www.CantinadiVenosa.it

vine age: 10 to 20 years old

fermentation: 7-8 days in stainless steel to dryness; malolactic in stainless steel

maturation: French barriques and Solvenian 50 hl barrels for 12 months

decanting: one hour should be sufficient

visual: clear; moderate garnet core with distinct cherry rim
nose: clean; moderately intense and developing aromas of leather, red and black berries, savory vanilla and dried herbs (thyme, rosemary, bay leaf)
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (crabapple/red currant) acids, moderate+ to full (chalky/grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure, moderate(+) length
conclusion: drinking well now with a good concentration of flavors and will develop for the next 2 years... drink 2012-2016
PAIRINGS: big flavors like this will work well with big food flavors; when I think of the region I naturally think of grilled sausage which also works because the naturally fattiness will balance the moderate acids in the wine

2007 Venosa "Terre di Orazio" Aglianico del Vulture

$35 CAD (not widely available in BC) *** Very Good to Excellent Value ****

vine age : 15 to 30 years old

fermentation : 8 to 10 days in stainless steel; malolactic in stainless steel

maturation : 15 months in French barriques and Slovenian 750 L casks

visual : clear; pale garnet core with substantial cherry rim
nose : clean; moderate+ intense and still developing aromas very similar to above but with spicy peppercorn endnotes and slightly hot alcohol
palate : clean; dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate+ (smooth/velvety) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate+ body, moderate+ intense and developing flavors with the same notes as the nose and with the same end palate of spicy peppercorns. Excellent structure and balance with medium+ length
conclusion : this is an excellent wine waiting to happen... great concentration of flavors with lively acids and smooth tannins make me think this will drink best in 3 to five years. Drink 2015-2020 and beyond
PAIRINGS : this wine wants the best red meat possible... consider dry rubbed ribeye steak with savory herbs and white truffle roast potato .... ribeyes have the fat to balance the acids, savory herbs will emphasize the light herbaceousness in the wine and the truffled fungal notes will emphasize through contrast

the view from Vulture volcano (courtesy Wikipedia)

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!

Melange Noir, Mt. Boucherie estate winery

2011-05-15T11:34:00.000-07:00

In a place where winemaking is a relatively new process, and most vineyards are keeping their history in years rather then decades or centuries, the Gidda family and Mt Boucherie estate winery are making their mark (http://www.mtboucheriewinery.com/) .

Mt Boucherie vineyard in West Kelowna

1968 was the inaugural year that saw them growing grapes for winemaking and now, over 40 years later, brothers Nirmal and Kaldeep are continuing to grow the family passion to greater heights. Although their state-of-the-art facility for processing, fermenting and bottling wine is in West Kelowna, British Columbia, the family now has over 300 acres of vineyards in the West Kelowna area, Okanagan Falls and Similkameen Valley near the township of Cawston. All of their wines are made using 100% estate sourced grapes to ensure quality can be guarded as closely as possible.

location of Cawston, Similkameen Valley DVA

Cawston has become a recently "hotbed" of viticulture activity and the Gidda family aren't the only ones sourcing new land there. Cawston has a population under 1000 and yet still has 2 fruit processing plants, the newer of which has been built solely for organic produce... the number of wineries and vineyard is growing by double digit percentages as well.

And what are these new vineyards growing? Well in Westbank one of the grapes of choice is Michurinetz, which is an Eastern European varietal extremely well suited to cold climates; high in acid it is now blended successfully with a varietal like Merlot which will balance the acidity and give some plushness to the thin juice. Michurinetz is also capable of greatness when the vines reach maturity, but in their youth can produce wines that are thin and acerbic. Marechal Foch, a hybrid developed in the early 1900's, was named in honor of one of the French generals instrumental in the peace treaty ending the First World War. This varietal also is grown successfully in Westbank and the Similkameen owing to it's cold-weather hardiness and also lends a vibrant acidity to blends...

2005 Melange-Noir summit reserve, Mt. Boucherie estate winery

West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia

http://www.mtboucheriewinery.com/

$22 CAD *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

varietals: 100% estate grown Marechal Foch, Michurinetz, Merlot and Gamay Noir. 14% ABV

fermentation: cold soak, then 7 days warm ferment

maturation: 19 months new and used French oak

visual: clear; fully intense purple-garnet with cherry-brick rim
nose: clean; fully intense and developed aromas of blackberries, dried saskatoons, dark cocoa, black florals, black cherries and cherry blossoms, black raspberry compote
palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (red/black currant) acids, moderate (green, grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and developed flavors of red and black currant, raspberry compote, blackberries, old leather, red and black cherries. Good balance, very good structure, medium length
conclusion: drink now to 2013; will not develop further and is already losing concentration of flavor
PAIRINGS: vibrant acids want some fat; I would use this for it's Gamay Noir and pair with boeuf bourguignon because the cream will balance the acids and the dried red berry flavors and aromas will love some red meat - consider using venison is you're daring and I think it will pay off~!

view from Mt Boucherie winery deck

An interesting blend from an established BC winery, this was a unique experience. Paired with the right food I believe this wine can truly sing, but I would really like to come back and try it again when the vines have had a chance to develop further.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!! SLAINTE~!!! CHEERS~!!!