Friends, today I have a special giveaway! If you were here yesterday when I posted about my jacket, you’ll know that I just finished this jacket from Janet Pray’s Craftsy class Sew Better, Sew Faster. Janet contacted me last week and agreed to allow me to giveaway a free pass to her class, which includes not only her brilliant sewing techniques in action but also a copy of the pattern Jacket Express.

During the class, Janet utilizes wooden pressing tools and since I was so happy to see this (since its not something you see that often these days) I decided I would throw in a tailor board from the shop. That’s right. If you win this, you’ll win the free pass to the Craftsy class and the collapsible tailor board from my shop! Additionally, this giveaway is open to anyone, anywhere so don’t hesitate to put your name in the hat for this one.

To enter the giveaway, just leave me a comment and I’ll be back on Friday to announce a winner chosen at random! Yay!

When Janet Pray’s Craftsy class landed itself in my email inbox, I immediately enrolled. For those of you who don’t know, Janet Pray is the niece of Margaret Islander of Islander Sewing. Additionally Janet is the founder of the American Sewing Expo which truly is an amazing sewing conference and expo held every year in Novi, Michigan. I was fortunate to attend and teach a little at last year’s expo and of course, I met Janet. Janet is one of those rare people who are unbelievably supportive of the sewing community so for me, it was a no-brainer to enroll in her course.

So, let’s talk a little bit about this class and the jacket pattern that comes with it, shall we? The Craftsy class itself, Sew Better, Sew Faster, is based off of the Islander Sewing System, which is all about bringing industry techniques and tips to the home sewing masses. This is something that Margaret Islander came up with and Janet continues on with today. I had heard about Islander Sewing and I’ve been meaning to purchase a video or two from the website and just hadn’t gotten around to it, so I felt the Craftsy class would be a good jumping point. In the class you learn about sewing pinless and nothing is hand basted, meaning that you don’t pin the pattern pieces together first and then sew them together and everything is sewn by machine. Additionally, Janet talks about sewing ergonomics and how to best achieve a workstation that resembles that of something in the industry, which in turn means better posture, less stress on certain body points and well, faster sewing. Janet shows how to correctly utilize wooden sewing tools like a tailor board and a clapper (this was awesome!!!) and she utilizes the serger and a gravity steam iron (I’m green with envy for that tool). She talks about topstitching and shows techniques and tips for getting better topstitching results. When all was said and done, this class was right up my alley!

Then there’s the pattern, Jacket Express. I was skeptical at first about using the pattern only because as I started to cut out my size, I got a look at the small manual that came with the pattern. I noticed that there were different seam allowances for different pieces and at first, I was kind of put off by this because I usually don’t even read pattern directions when it comes to sewing. But I forged on and I’m glad I did because this pattern is expertly drafted. The fit, for me, is spot on too. I didn’t make a muslin and look, this pattern fits me right out of the envelope!

Deets on the jacket: I made the x-small, which is kind of sad because the pattern itself doesn’t go any smaller and really I’m an average girl size, I think. I made it up in some great italian linen from Yellow Bird Fabrics and I used a heavy Coats and Clarks thread for the topstitching. And actually, can I just say that I loathe topstitching thread? If you get the heavyweight or denim kind its such a pain in the butt and its hard on my machine and its hard to gauge the tension with and I’ve pretty much decided that I’m never using it again. Yup, I hate it that much!!! I ended up unpicking a bunch of topstitching throughout the jacket and it was no fun! Anyway, back to the jacket. The jacket went together wonderfully except for a few places where I wasn’t paying attention, which was my own silly fault. I sewed the entire jacket without the use of pins – can you believe that? I can’t. I’m terribly impressed with myself. Ha ha! The welt pockets were awesome!!! as were the sleeve cuffs (which I’ve folded up and out of my summery way). Then of course, I’m sure you noticed that my version is collarless. I opted not to put in the collar as I loved the look of the collarless version so much. Instead I drafted a back neck facing and added it to the front facing before attaching it to the jacket.

Verdict: The class and the pattern are well worth the money. This jacket has a long and wearable life in my closet. Its a mite too warm for the summers around here, however on a cool night I’ll be good to go. Since I went for a basic color, it will work well in the fall and spring as well. I’m pretty sure I’ll be reaching for it all the time. Its that comfortable and its that good.

On a final note, Janet contacted me and gave me some goodies to give to all of you. First off, enjoy 20% off the class when you click through this link. Additionally, I was able to procure a free class for one of you, so I’ll be having a giveaway of Janet’s class tomorrow! Stay tuned for that!

So, what do you think? Do you sew without pins? Ever tried the Islander Sewing methods?

I can’t believe its already June around here, can you? Where did 2013 already go? Sheesh! I’ve been slaving away in my sewing room – no seriously, slaving away. Here’s a small result of my efforts this past week. I’ve been working my way through Janet Pray’s Craftsy class and I’m pretty excited to share my review of the class with you…next week. Sometimes I swear, when I learn new techniques its like before I learned it, I was living in the dark ages of sewing. I’ll talk more about it on Monday.

Today, and every few Fridays from now on (notice I said few, meaning not every Friday), I’ll be doing a link roundup. I know I used to do “Stitching Spotlights,” but I’ve been wanting to change the format up and so I just did. There’s always so much going on in the online sewing world that, really, its just not fair if it doesn’t get more link love from someone and whenever my favorite bloggers round up links on their blog, I always find fascinating new blogs to read and sewing circles to participate in. So here goes:

Project Sewn. People, this was awesome. If you didn’t catch Project Sewn, then head on over and take a look at season one. I found some new stylin sewing bloggers (Sophie from Cirque du Bebe being one – this girl is on fire!!!) and I was totally impressed with the creations, the amazing sewing and it was just plain old fabulous.

Ummmmm…..if you are living in a cave, then you haven’t heard of the new bombshell swimsuit pattern put out by Closet Case Files. It’s totally bombed the sewing sphere (in a good way) and its totally time you all tried your hand at a swimsuit. They are really fun to make and they sew up fast and easy. This reminds me, I still need to show you my green polka dot swimsuit from last year….

Have you seen the latest By Hand London pattern offering? Its a marvelously modern jacket. I’ll admit that while I didn’t totally get into the Elisalex dress and Charlotte skirt, I am all over this pattern. It’s so rad! I want it NOW!

I hope y’all are participating in Karen’s Pajama Party. I am. I already purchased the Tofino pattern (speaking of minx, that Tasia and her patterns) and I’ve already made 4 pj pants. Yup. It’s seriously that great. I was skeptical about another pj pant pattern, but if you’ve tried as many pj pant patterns as I have, and then you try your hand at the Tofino, you’ll know exactly what I mean.

Have you seen Thread Theory patterns? They are men’s sewing patterns that boast some lovely classic, yet sleek designs. They have one pattern out at the moment, with 3 more coming soon. Seriously spectacular, considering the sad state that is men’s sewing patterns these days.

That’s all for this episode of Friday Favorites. Do you have any links that you would like to share? Any fun sewing patterns or online sewing news that we should know about? Leave ‘em in the comments! Have a great weekend everyone!

Hey Everyone! Just thought I would pop in and tell you that I did a guest post over on Christine Haynes’ blog, City Stitching. Its all about fabric stashing and how to overcome being a fabric hoarder. I would LOVE to hear your thoughts on this as, of course, I have a fabric purchasing problem. Several events have really illuminated this guest post for me as late. I’m truly beginning to realize that the upkeep, time and effort that goes into keeping a substantial fabric stash is well, a lot of work. Work that I could be putting into actually making garments or sewing projects from the stash! Oiy! Anyway, hop on over and give it a read.

And the winner for the free access pass to the Beginner Serging Craftsy class is Sarah, who said:

Thank you for your post on sergers! I hadn’t really considered one because I thought they would be too expensive and difficult to use. But you convinced me to give it a try and I ordered an American Home serger. I would love to win the class, but will definitely sign up for it regardless!

I think the class will be the perfect thing for Sarah and her new serger, what do you think? Additionally, Amy Alan asked me to give you all a link to receive 50% off the Beginner Serging class (this makes the class a whopping $20, awesome right?)! Click here to claim your 50% from this class.

Thanks everyone for participating! Sergers (or overlockers) unite!

This is the endless wonder that is Vogue 1027. It is such an amazing dress. On my last trip to Joann, they were having a pattern sale. Vogue patterns were $3.99 and so I decided to flip through the pattern book and see if there was a pattern that I didn’t yet own needed. I saw this Donna Karen dress and thought, “If ever there was a time that I needed a knit dress in my life, that time is now.” So I grabbed it right up in my size. Then I went home and got on Pattern Review and read the myriad reviews on this pattern. Even though I do find the Pattern Review site rather hard to navigate, I always do this because the information from sewers like me and you is just so invaluable. I definitely need to be better about reviewing sewing patterns on there because I find so much great information on that site. Anyway, I found that this pattern runs rather large. Actually, I find that with all the knitwear patterns put out by the Big 4 but that is a discussion for another time. After reading many of the reviews, I decided to go down 2 sizes. Perfect fit.

Not surprising since this is a knit dress, but you know, still. Makes me feel like the queen of everything. I made only a couple of small changes to the final dress. I decided to do a contrasting knit band for the neckline – used the selvedge of my fabric for this. I did this to make this version look a little sportier, you know, more everyday wearable. I also decided on a high- low hem (or a mullet hem if you will), a very popular trend for the past year or so and one that I’ve been really liking myself. Makes me feel kind of modern….

This dress pattern is very well engineered. It has in seam pockets – normally something I abhore – but they extend up into the waistline in this really nifty way and so they don’t flop about idiotically when you have something like your credit card or keys in them. Definitely a cue that many other patterns – including those for wovens – could take a lesson from. Also there is an elastic waistline stay in it. At first I was doubting that I would even need this, but actually it creates less tension on the bodice which is about the only thing carrying that heavy skirt.

The fabric here is from lowpricefabrics.com (I love this online fabric store) and its a rayon/spandex 4 way stretch knit. Its so amazingly comfortable. Oiy! Pajama dress more like. And at $5 a yard – what is not to love? Admittedly I’m not normally a knit dress sort of girl. Whenever I’ve tried them on in stores, I find the knit to be extremely thin, very clingy and it looks like something my washer would chew up in a second. So its really refreshing to find such an easy alternative to knit dresses. Additionally, if you get an all over print fabric, this hides a multitude of sins, not the least of which is wrinkles.

I always say this, but I think I’m going to make one more of these dresses. I’ve already got the plan in mind and even the fabric, so I just need to cut it out and sew it up. I’ll keep you posted on that front. Here’s to the summer that’s just ahead!

So there were a few of you in the comments from my last post on my serger that mentioned that you had a serger/overlocker and were frightened to death of it. Believe me, I was the exact same way when I purchased my serger, though I have to admit that I was so overjoyed when I got it I immediately went home and spent several hours learning how to thread it. My serger purchase also came with a free class for using my serger, so I signed up for the class and was so happy that I went and learned a few tricks for my serger and serging in general. So when Amy Alan of Really Handmade contacted me and asked if I wanted to giveaway a free access pass to her class on serging to one of my readers, well, how could I say no?

Do y’all know Amy? If you don’t, can I suggest that you head on over to her blog and take a gander at this amazing plaid Anise Jacket. I don’t think I need to tell you, but planning and sewing a plaid jacket is not an easy venture, but just look at the plaid matching on this lovely. It’s truly amazing – would you just take a look at the plaid line-up along the sleeve. Sigh….so gorgeous. I’m a sucker for plaids and I love this jacket. Amy is an amazing seamstress. Additionally, Amy teaches the class on Beginner Serging on Craftsy! So for those of you who are ready to take your serging to the next level or even are frightened to death of using your serger, you need to go check out Amy’s class. Or you could just win the class here! Yay!

So for a chance to win a free access pass to Beginner Serging on Craftsy, all you have to do is leave a comment. Wouldn’t hurt if you left a comment on the kind of serger you have and how long you’ve had it either. And that’s it! I’ll be leaving this giveaway open til Monday (May 27) and then from there I’ll announce a winner, picked at random. OK, friends enter away!

I am of the opinion that everyone should just go get a serger. Yup. I lived without one for way too long and I was completely in the dark as to how much they cost and how much they really are worth to a garment sewer. Sergers just make life easier and believe me when I tell you, I am not kidding. Since I’m a Thread’s Insider (seriously, just go get a membership now!) I have access to all of Louise Cutting’s Industry Insider Technique videos – this is totally worth the membership by the way, Louise is a GENIUS! I love her! Anyway, I remember in one of the videos she says something to the effect of how great and easy it is to use a serger and how no sewer should really be without one because the days of finishing seam allowances without one are over. I agree 1,000,000%! I finish seam allowances with my serger nearly 100% of the time now (occasionally I’ll do a french seam on linings, but otherwise, I’m a serger girl).

So let’s talk about what I was never able to seem to find out before I just went out and bought my serger a few years back. You can get a decent serger for fairly inexpensive these days. Mine was a whopping $275. Yup. You can drop your jaw too if you’ve been thinking that sergers will cost you an arm and a leg and you have to give up your firstborn for one. You can and should be able to purchase a decent serger for something in the $300 – $500 range. My sewing machine was considerably more than that, so when I found out that sergers weren’t all that expensive I kept wondering why I had waited so long.

Then I went out and purchased the Babylock Lauren. It’s the entry level Babylock serger. Now, I’m not going to say that this is the serger for you, but I’m happy with it. It finishes my seam allowances like a champ. Sometimes we have small issues going over bulky areas, but for the most part its fine. Its actually one of the easier ones to thread and I say that having threaded many sergers for students and threaded the ones at Yellow Bird Fabrics a few times. It has a pretty good narrow hem on it that I use from time to time to finish a lining hem. It’s got four threads, differential feed and you know, that’s pretty much it. With sergers you can get crazy and spend money on a really really nice one (like the Babylocks that thread themselves….sigh….) but the end game is pretty much the same – it finishes your seam allowances so that you can spend your time perfecting other sewing techniques. And when it comes to seam allowances, a serger really really does save you time. The daunting task of finishing seam allowances all of a sudden is not daunting anymore. It reduces time spent doing that to like 1/4 of the time you would spend finishing those silly seam allowances. In fact, I remember the times before I had a serger and I would wander around in a fog just thinking about how long it was going to take me to finish the seam allowances on any garment. Now I don’t even think about it. I just do it and its done.

So, when I first purchased my serger, immediately after I had done the deed and paid the money, I was reading a certain blog (which I’ll not name, but held in very high regard at the time) that went into great detail about how even though they had sergers on their premises that they were “rarely used” because they were totally into finishing their seams the old fashioned way. And it wasn’t just one blog post, it was like several blog posts where they kept mentioning that and their sort of “higher ground” for not being in the serger crowd. So then I had instant buyer’s remorse for being one of those that invested in a serger and every time I went to serge a seam I would feel instant guilt because I wasn’t doing it the “higher ground” way.

Friends, this is BOGUS! Look, I totally understand if you don’t have the money to invest in a serger right now – I empathize. Just know that there are entry level model sergers that do the job just fine, so maybe you won’t have to save up quite as much money as you were thinking. Otherwise, serging just makes life easier. Thank you – I’m a “lower ground” sewer and I’m proud to admit it!

What are your thoughts on sergers? Been saving up thinking that sergers are going to cost you thousands of dollars? Are you a “lower ground” sewer?

In addition to all the craziness that’s been going on around here, I decided to purchase a coverstitch machine. I’ve had my eye on procuring one for quite some time and I was finally able to treat myself to one and goodness gracious, let me tell you – I’m a convert. If you are unaware, this machine’s main function is for hemming knitwear. It does that whole double needle thing with what looks like a serged edge on the other side. It does more than just hemming, but yes, this is the sole purpose for why I really wanted one.

I had my eye on the Brother coverstitch machine – I was totally swayed by Elizabeth’s love for her coverstitch – and the Janome Coverpro. After reading Andrea’s take on the Janome, I opted to go for this little machine. The free arm and “Wow, it actually looks like a sewing machine, look at all that room on the right hand side of the machine” thing is what finally sealed the deal. I purchased the lower end newer version of the one Andrea has (the 900CPX rather than the 1000CP) and I’m totally thrilled with it. Mine is only capable of a double needle function (the Janome 1000CP and CPX have a triple needle function, but after much thought I didn’t really think this was something I would use) and I’m not able to move the needle for narrower or wider needle widths. I’m totally fine with this.

I decided not to go into a full-on review of this machine since I think Andrea did a first rate job of that here and if you were ever interested in purchasing a coverstitch machine, you should definitely hop on over to her blog and have a gander at what she has to say. Like Andrea, I didn’t want to spend a lot of money for one of the higher end models, but I still feel like I got a great deal for the money I did spend.

Additionally, I would like to state that I think coverstitch machines are a good investment only if you a) work with knits quite a bit and b) are completely dissatisfied with the hemming methods that your sewing machine can do. The more and more that I’ve come to work with knits, the more and more dissatisfied I was becoming with the hemming methods that work around not having a coverstitch, ie: twin needle hemming (mine always tunnels something awful and I always end up breaking the bobbin thread when I put the garment on, uggh!), blind hem stitching (one that I’ve become more attached to, but was still somewhat dissatisfied with) and finally self fabric or rib knit bands (my favorite of the three, but this method doesn’t translate to every style very well). I think its also worth stating that this machine doesn’t just magically work and not everything you do turns out perfectly. Like any other machine, it takes some getting used to and you’ll still have to invest in a few extra pieces for it to be able to do certain things better. Also, there are sergers out there that have a coverstitch function. I thought about going this route too, but ultimately, I LOATHE entirely changing settings and feet and needle plates and blah blah blah on my serger as it is and would rather smother myself with a pillow just have a separate coverstitch machine – though I know that not everyone feels this way so just do your homework if you ever plan to invest in one (PS ~ from what I’ve read, coverstitch machines are MUCH easier to thread than sergers, my own coverstitch being a complete cinch to thread).

Thoughts on coverstitch machines? Thoughts on hemming methods for knitwear?

I find that meeting people who share your passion wonderful. Meeting someone who shares your passion, has sewn practically everything, lives by you and is supportive of you is pretty much a needle in a haystack. But I’m here to say that it happens. I have a friend and mentor that is an insanely amazing woman. Leena has been around the sewing block. Lately when I’ve sewn something, I show her or I plan projects and get her input. I like getting her input because she gives me ideas for how to do this or that differently or maybe try this sewing technique or gives me her thoughts on color choice and style.

Leena is one of those types of people that would literally give you the shirt off her back if you needed it or probably if you didn’t need it too. She’s given me a TON of fabric from her amazing stash and then one day, she invited me over to pick out yarns because she wanted to weave me some fabric too. I know, I know! This is crazy, but yeah, these photos are of some fabric that she wove for me. Like on a loom with her bare hands and all. I really have no concept of how to weave fabric except to say that its pretty much magical and this is pretty much one of the nicest, most thoughtful gifts anyone has ever given me. Amazing, right?

I feel pretty spoiled and am quickly brainstorming a jacket to make out of it. Chanel style, cardigan jacket I think. What do you think? Do you have a sewing mentor in your life?