In addition to all the craziness that’s been going on around here, I decided to purchase a coverstitch machine. I’ve had my eye on procuring one for quite some time and I was finally able to treat myself to one and goodness gracious, let me tell you – I’m a convert. If you are unaware, this machine’s main function is for hemming knitwear. It does that whole double needle thing with what looks like a serged edge on the other side. It does more than just hemming, but yes, this is the sole purpose for why I really wanted one.

I had my eye on the Brother coverstitch machine – I was totally swayed by Elizabeth’s love for her coverstitch – and the Janome Coverpro. After reading Andrea’s take on the Janome, I opted to go for this little machine. The free arm and “Wow, it actually looks like a sewing machine, look at all that room on the right hand side of the machine” thing is what finally sealed the deal. I purchased the lower end newer version of the one Andrea has (the 900CPX rather than the 1000CP) and I’m totally thrilled with it. Mine is only capable of a double needle function (the Janome 1000CP and CPX have a triple needle function, but after much thought I didn’t really think this was something I would use) and I’m not able to move the needle for narrower or wider needle widths. I’m totally fine with this.

I decided not to go into a full-on review of this machine since I think Andrea did a first rate job of that here and if you were ever interested in purchasing a coverstitch machine, you should definitely hop on over to her blog and have a gander at what she has to say. Like Andrea, I didn’t want to spend a lot of money for one of the higher end models, but I still feel like I got a great deal for the money I did spend.

Additionally, I would like to state that I think coverstitch machines are a good investment only if you a) work with knits quite a bit and b) are completely dissatisfied with the hemming methods that your sewing machine can do. The more and more that I’ve come to work with knits, the more and more dissatisfied I was becoming with the hemming methods that work around not having a coverstitch, ie: twin needle hemming (mine always tunnels something awful and I always end up breaking the bobbin thread when I put the garment on, uggh!), blind hem stitching (one that I’ve become more attached to, but was still somewhat dissatisfied with) and finally self fabric or rib knit bands (my favorite of the three, but this method doesn’t translate to every style very well). I think its also worth stating that this machine doesn’t just magically work and not everything you do turns out perfectly. Like any other machine, it takes some getting used to and you’ll still have to invest in a few extra pieces for it to be able to do certain things better. Also, there are sergers out there that have a coverstitch function. I thought about going this route too, but ultimately, I LOATHE entirely changing settings and feet and needle plates and blah blah blah on my serger as it is and would rather smother myself with a pillow just have a separate coverstitch machine – though I know that not everyone feels this way so just do your homework if you ever plan to invest in one (PS ~ from what I’ve read, coverstitch machines are MUCH easier to thread than sergers, my own coverstitch being a complete cinch to thread).

Thoughts on coverstitch machines? Thoughts on hemming methods for knitwear?

I find that meeting people who share your passion wonderful. Meeting someone who shares your passion, has sewn practically everything, lives by you and is supportive of you is pretty much a needle in a haystack. But I’m here to say that it happens. I have a friend and mentor that is an insanely amazing woman. Leena has been around the sewing block. Lately when I’ve sewn something, I show her or I plan projects and get her input. I like getting her input because she gives me ideas for how to do this or that differently or maybe try this sewing technique or gives me her thoughts on color choice and style.

Leena is one of those types of people that would literally give you the shirt off her back if you needed it or probably if you didn’t need it too. She’s given me a TON of fabric from her amazing stash and then one day, she invited me over to pick out yarns because she wanted to weave me some fabric too. I know, I know! This is crazy, but yeah, these photos are of some fabric that she wove for me. Like on a loom with her bare hands and all. I really have no concept of how to weave fabric except to say that its pretty much magical and this is pretty much one of the nicest, most thoughtful gifts anyone has ever given me. Amazing, right?

I feel pretty spoiled and am quickly brainstorming a jacket to make out of it. Chanel style, cardigan jacket I think. What do you think? Do you have a sewing mentor in your life?

I know I’ve promised a lot of stuff lately and I’m still planning to deliver, but as I juggle several balls at the moment, I’ve been simply aching to tackle the Robson Trench. Tasia does it again! I swear this girl is building a wardrobe of patterns for the Everyday Wardrobe. Everyday wearable, chic, classic, feminine patterns. And since its been unusually cold here in Utah lately, but yet not cold enough to warrant a full on winter coat, you could say that I’m in dire need of a coat like this.

So the Robson is on my sewing table at the moment. I went to the 40% off sale at Designer’s Resource (another local fabric store that specializes in home dec) and scored a pretty fabulous charcoal grey super fine wool. Its a suiting weight and seriously, the perfect color for a trench. Am I right? Woot, woot! I’ve got buttons coming and I’ve decided to line my version (I plan to show a tutorial on this) and I’ll show you my progress as I work on this coat. I expect it will be a fairly quick sew because I’ve sewn several jackets lately – so many jackets! I think I could make a jacket in my sleep at this point! Ha!

What’s on your sewing table this weekend? Any plans for a Robson in your future?

Here’s a small fabric sample that I’m creating a hem on. I’ve turned the raw edge up 1/2″ and from there I’m going to turn it up a full inch meaning that my hem allowance in this case was 1 1/2″.

Apply the fusible web with the webby side down on the fabric. For some webs you’ll steam or iron it in place and for some, like the Wonder Tape, you just stick it on there and push it down. For my sample here, I’ve turned the 1″ portion of my hem allowance back and I’m applying it to the inside of what will become my hem.

Once you have the web in the place you want it, lift up the paper. For the Wonder Tape, this might be a bit tricky but just separate it carefully at the top and away you can go.

Now stick the remaining adhesive side to something else. In this case, I’m just turning up the hem that 1 inch and sticking it to the other side. Keep in mind though that this can be helpful for zippers, trims and other such things. You’ll press with steam in the place with your iron and then from there permanently stitch in place. Remember the fusible web is just a temporary baster. It keeps things from shifting about and makes sewing certain things together easier. The final step is permanently stitching whatever you’ve temporarily basted. Also, you can purchase my favorite fusible webs here in my shop!

So, what are some other applications that you might use this stuff in? I’ve just shown a hemline here and zippers which you can see in my Craftsy class. Some other places to consider is matching plaids and patterns on fabric. Instead of hand basting these sections, try the fusible web instead. One of my favorite places to use this is in the collar stand area on a classic button up shirt – in fact I’ll show this one in an upcoming tutorial. Easy peasy! Another favorite application: Whenever I have to stitch in the ditch, like in the case of a skirt or pant waistband, I put this stuff down on the inside/facing first and then go about stitching in the ditch. Prevents rippling, pulling, puckers and distortion. So much easier! I also used it in the neckline binding of my wrap dress version from the 2-in-1 sewalong.

Ready to give fusible web a try? If you use it, what are some things that you use it in?

Last year I purchased a Thread’s Insider pass (totally worth it by the way) and I found that there were all these videos on Industry Secrets by Louise Cutting. I’ve become a HUGE fan of Louise (she’s a genius!) and would love to one day attend one of her workshops because I think she just has so many great secrets and she goes about making things easy and fast instead of always trying to convert you to the long way of doing something. In one of the video sessions she talked about fusible web and how its one of those tools that she never lives without. Then I used it and I was converted! Seriously, this stuff has sooooooo many uses and I can’t even believe that for so long I discounted its existence. So let’s talk about what it is and a few myths that surround this product, shall we? Oh yes, we shall.

Fusible web is a temporary baster. This means that you can use it to temporarily baste anything in place. This can take the place of basting something by hand and I say “can” because there are times that you might want to baste by hand (but I pretty much don’t anymore, ha!). I use this product to temporarily baste the centered, slot seam zipper in place in my Craftsy class. Can I just say that for years I never used this zipper application because I felt that it was the hardest zipper application to get looking good. I dare you to take this zipper application out of your bag of tricks and try to get those topstitching lines perfectly even on each side of the zipper without the use of the fusible web. Wait, let me up that ante – do it without having to rip it out at least once or 5 times. Yeah. It’s really, stupidly hard. Really really. Then I was asked to do the Craftsy class and then they were like “we’ll need to do that centered slot seam zipper, ya know” and I was like “of course.” Inside I was quaking in my boots. Then I remembered the fusible web and the problem was solved! Temporarily baste that sucker in place and ha! The hardest zipper application is now the easiest and I’ve been using it all over the place lately. Plus you don’t have to hand baste it in place and end up getting threads caught in your topstitching that won’t come out or getting screwed up because your basting lines aren’t straight but yet your topstitching lines are supposed to be. Yup, I’m not a fan of hand basting this sucker in, if you couldn’t tell.

Anyway, there have been a few questions that have arisen from my use of this product on the Craftsy platform. So let’s chat about some of those too.

Myth: Fusible web will gum up your needle.
Fact: No, it won’t. Take my word for it because I actually use it! Ha! And I use it all the time. 100% NO GUMMING!

Myth: Fusible web can leave permanent web and gum on your fabric.
Fact: It doesn’t leave gum on your fabric and its not permanent really in any way. It’s temporary. You can even peel it off your fabric if you need to move something somewhere else – like a zipper. I’ve even used it on silk. Plus, unless you’re using this product the way that you’re not supposed to, you won’t be able to see where you’ve applied it anyway. Whenever and wherever you use fusible web, just know that its temporary and you need to permanently stitch it in place later on down the road. Plus, to add better to best, you can use the Wash Away Wonder Tape that’s in the shop and yeah, it actually washes away after the first use. I know, you can totally thank me later (snark!).

With that friends, I’ve since tried new brands of this fusible web and have put two of my absolute favorites in the shop: the Clover fusible web and Wonder Tape by Collins. The Clover brand works just like Steam-a-Seam, but I like it better because the tape that you pull away is just well easier to pull away. The Wonder Tape is just as awesome and doesn’t need steam or heat to set and it washes away, like I just said upstairs there. Slap it on your project, peel off the tape and temporarily baste whatever in place. Voila!

Tomorrow I’ll be back to show you some of my favorite applications of this product and hopefully you’ll be converted too! Thoughts on fusible web anyone? Are you a convert yet?

So anyway, today I have a treat for you. There’s a free class at Craftsy with your name on it. That’s right, your name. on. it. I taught the class and can I just state for the record, there is something completely unnerving about watching yourself on tv, or the internet as the case maybe. It’s surreal. It’s weird. It’s uncanny. I can’t get over it. Whatever. We shot the classes in November and Craftsy did their crafty thing and put it all together for you in a wonderful little package and its on……. Zipper Insertions! Hip Hip Hooray! The official name of the class is Mastering Zipper Techniques and I go through, step by step, how to insert a slot seam, invisible and lapped zipper all by machine. Plus there’s a class on how to handle the slot seam and invisible zipper with a lined/faced garment. I think there’s something in there for everyone. Even if you’re an intermediate sewer, its always fun to see how someone else does something, right? I think you’ll all enjoy yourselves and hopefully pick up a tip or two along the way. I had a ball doing it all!

And if nothing else, now you can experience what I sound like. And then you can ask yourself, “Wow, does she really sound like that?” To which I would say, “That’s funny. I asked myself the exact same thing.” And I did. Like I said, it’s different watching yourself on tv. Oh, how do movie stars do it? So hop on over to Craftsy and Zipper out! Don’t forget, this class is FREE! That’s right, I said FREE FREE FREE! Knock yourselves out! Yay!

Can I geek out for just a minute more too with y’all? I don’t know if I’ve ever stated this, but my absolute, hands down, favorite movie of all time is Bridget Jones’s Diary. I’m totally silly like that. So, on my plane trip to Denver to shoot this class guess what exploded in my bag – why my BLUE chalk pen of course. It wasn’t the white one or the pink one, no it was the blue one. And there was blue on nearly all of my sewing supplies that I brought for the taping. Yup. Blue. Blue soup. My god, is that blue soup/chalk pen? Why yes, yes it is. Thank you. Very. Much.

“Do I really sound like that?”
Sunni

Personally, I feel there is a difference between drafting and designing sewing patterns. When you draft a pattern, you are drafting a basic pattern from measurements or draping a pattern onto a dressform or another person’s body. Design is what you do with the pattern after you’ve got the basic pattern.

● In my book, there are several ways to go about getting the basic patterns. You can learn how to draft sewing patterns yourself, from your measurements. This can be an intimidating process to tackle without a teacher – ask me how I know. I’ve drafted several patterns before (still do), from my own measurements, and I have nothing against pattern drafting, but it can end up taking the same amount of time to fit a flat drafted pattern as it does a commercial pattern.
● You could also learn how to drape a basic sewing pattern onto a dressform – but wait. I don’t know about you, but my dress form is not a perfectly padded out version of my body. Sad, but true. So in essence my draped sewing pattern would fit my dressform, but I would have to refit it to fit me. Ha ha ha! Dressforms that are made to your measurements can cost a lot of money and though I’ve seen several people pad out their dressforms themselves, its not easy and it really does take two people to get it right. You need a draping buddy, friends.
● Additionally, you could pay someone to create a few basic patterns for you by either drafting from your measurements or draping them on your body. This is a great idea, if you have access to someone who knows how to draft sewing patterns and would be willing to work with you.
● You could also rub-off a favorite basic garment that you already have in your closet. Say you had a perfect t-shirt. Create a paper pattern from it and use it as a basis for manipulation.
● Or you can pick and choose some basic patterns from the pattern book or an independent pattern company, get the fit down and get started on your own pattern manipulation. This is the road that I’ve decided to take for this series because I feel its the most accessible.

So what’s all this basic pattern business? What defines a basic pattern? These are usually the types of patterns that are drafted and then turned into something else. The Fitting Shells put out by Vogue (dress and pants), McCall’s (btw, this one has cup sizes) and Butterick (misses and womens’) are great examples. But we must think broader too. A fitting shell will give you a basic bodice, sleeve and skirt, but what about pants, knits, jackets, coats and all of the other types of clothing out there? I think its a good idea to think about several options and take stock of the type of clothing that you wear the most.

Consider the Renfrew for t-shirts – this a great basic pattern that could easily turn into a tank top for summer, a cardigan, a hoodie, a dress, etc. What about the Clover from Colette Patterns? These little pants would be a great block for some skinny jeans. The Laurel that just came out – a great basic style semi fitted dress that could translate well into a simple button up shirt or even jacket. Yup, that’s right, I just said jacket from a dress! What you’re looking for in a basic pattern is simplicity in style and something that could be easily modified for different looks. There’s not a lot of gathering or pleating or design lines going on in the pattern but yet, you can envision some. That’s the idea! Usually basic patterns – with the exclusion of knits – have dart control meaning they have darts. Darts are what help create shape and so when you’re looking for some basic patterns, be aware that its normal to have darts. Look at the fitting shell (links above) – the bodice is darted, so is the skirt and in vintage patterns there are darts at the elbow on a sleeve. This is good because darts will give us the foundation to be able to manipulate the pattern, so look for that.

In my next post, I’ll be going over my own personal arsenal of great basic patterns and from there giving you more options for basic patterns from several different companies. In fact, you’ve probably got a lot of the same basic sewing patterns that I do. Pretty spiffy, right?

What are some great basic sewing patterns that you’ve found? What are the kinds/types of clothes that you wear the most?

Though I would love to talk more in depth about fit, I feel that this can be a fairly personal issue and it can change quite a bit from person to person. I say, get yourself a good fitting book, like this one, and start learning how to go about fitting your handmade garments better, especially basic patterns (more on this to come). As for what’s about to come up here, I think the realm of design seems to many, nothing less than mysterious. From the standpoint of a sewing enthusiast – someone who has never gone to fashion design school but is a mega geek about sewing (that’s me!) – I think it can be a tricky road to finding out just how one goes about trying to knock off looks and styles that inspire (and work) and even come up with a unique design all their own. So I’ve decided to start a new series here.

Pattern Play. I’m going to show you my progress as I start to create my own sewing patterns. Now wait a minute – Hold the phone!!!! Does this mean that I’m starting up my own pattern company? NO! I’m just going to show you my progress as I tackle designing my own sewing patterns for personal use.  Additionally, I’ve decided to do this from the vantage of the home sewer because quite frankly, that’s what I am and I’m proud of it.

I think the idea of playing designer appeals to so many of us that sew our own clothes because its one more outlet in the creative process of sewing. Not only that, but playing around with sewing patterns is really really fun. This series is all about exploration into new and exciting territory and about making it personal. Its also going to be about liberating oneself from the confines of the offerings in the pattern book and using your own imagination to come up with a design all your own.

I do hope that you are as excited as I am about this venture. Do you ever long to create some of your own designs or even recreate some of the designs from the pattern book with a pattern that already fits you? I have loads more to show and discuss with you so stay tuned for more excitement and fun!

Y’all seemed pretty keen on the idea of watching the progress of two tailored jackets – one traditionally hand tailored and the other fusibly tailored. I thought I would start this series with my thoughts on tailoring. Tailoring is a very ambiguous term these days and it seems to refer to a lot more than the art of making jackets. So let’s take down a few definitions shall we?

From the Wikipedia we get this:

“A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men’s clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men’s and women’s suits, coats, trousers, and similar garments, usually of wool, linen, or silk. The term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets. Retailers of tailored suits often take their services internationally, traveling to various cities, allowing the client to be measured locally. Traditional tailoring is called bespoke tailoring in the United Kingdom, where the heart of the trade is London’s Savile Row tailoring, and custom tailoring in the United States and Hong Kong. This is unlike made to measure which uses pre-existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is completely original and unique to each customer.”

This is very much in line with how I view tailoring. Especially the part about “a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets.” I think its important to set this distinction as I see the term tailoring thrown around a lot with regards to fit. Now this may be true of some garments – garments that are tailored to your lifestyle or tailored to your specific figure, but I’m referring to the construction techniques of a jacket. More importantly, I’m referring to the specific techniques used to shape certain areas of a jacket like the lapel, collar, shoulder, hem, sleeve cap, etc.

From what I know about tailoring, there are 3 methods: hand, machine and fusible. Many times, I intermix all three methods into one jacket. There are certain things that I just really love about hand tailoring, but other things I don’t. There are great advantages to machine and fusible tailoring too and like hand tailoring there are some things that I don’t think work as well as others but these are personal preferences and I believe will vary with your experience. Also, I truly believe that the fabric that is picked for a jacket project, will give you more direction on what tailoring method you use. For example, pad stitching on my Obsession Jacket – a cotton sateen – would have been disastrous! I am not an expert tailor and perfecting pad stitching on a smooth faced fabric is not high on my to master list. So going with a fusible method made a lot more sense to me.

In this series, I’ll be showing two of the three methods, hand and fusible. You can definitely mix and match elements from each jacket to use in one jacket of your own, but I’ll try to stick to the ideas for each with each separate jacket.

All that said, what is it specifically that scares you about tailoring a jacket? If you’ve never tried one, what is the most intimidating part about making a jacket? Any tips or tricks from you more experienced sewers?

You are most welcome to disagree, agree or other, but please keep your comments respectful of myself and others. Comments will be deleted that contain hostile or rude innuendo.