Otto Ristorante

While everyone else was returning to work after the Christmas break Dylan and I had an extra week off to enjoy some downtime and make the most of summer before kicking off another busy year. And while everyone else was at work the smart thing to do was book a long lunch at a restaurant with water views.

Located on the waterfront at Woolloomooloo wharf Otto was the obvious choice. Owned by the Fink Group who also own Quay and co-own The Bridge Room, Otto has been a mainstay of the Sydney dining scene for the last 15 years. The food is modern Italian and the setting picturesque. With both indoor and outdoor dining options you’d be mad not to dine outside on such a glorious summer’s day.

Menu

Mojito ($19.00) and Hendrick’s gin & tonic ($19.00).

Protected by the sun and with a cool breeze coming off the water, dining al fresco never felt so good. It had been close to ten years since we’d last dined at Otto and we were well overdue a return visit. We felt lucky to be dining in such a sensational setting both mid-week and during the day when the restaurant is less crowded. Being the middle of summer a few cocktails were in order – a favoured mojito for him and a refreshing Hendrick’s gin and tonic for me.

Mojito and Hendrick’s gin & tonic

Affettato – truffle salami, San Daniele Prosciutto, wagyu bresaola, pork crackling ($29.00).

A meal at an Italian restaurant has to start with salumi or antipasti. It’s the rule. Ordering from the ‘assaggi’ section of the menu (which comes before the Antipasti and translates to ‘tastings’) we chose the cured meats because no one does them better than the Italians. A large cheeseboard with the selection of meats was cleverly placed on a pizza stand to leave room on the table.

Salami had a lovely mix of fermented pork and chunks of pork fat punctuated with black peppercorns and decadent, earthy truffle. Prosciutto had flavour in spades and was sliced to the perfect thickness making each piece an event in itself. Wagyu bresaola had as much flavour as it did depth of colour, cured with such a deft touch it was meltingly soft and rich at the same time. A great offset to the silky cured meats was pork crackling. It didn’t just bring texture and crunch it was utterly moreish.

Affettato – truffle salami, San Daniele Prosciutto, wagyu bresaola, pork crackling

Spaghettini – tomato infused fresh egg long pasta, spanner crab meat, chilli, garlic, bread crumbs ($30.00).

Moving on from the ‘assaggi’ next up had to be ‘paste’ and it was the promise of spanner crab that saw me order the spaghettini. Beautiful long fresh egg pasta was reminiscent of hokkien noodles with a similar shape and rich orange hue, but it was the amalgamation of the ingredients that grabbed focus in this dish. Crab, chilli, garlic and bread all work so well together and with such sensational, hearty pasta at the core everything was able to live up to expectations. An exceptional dish.

Spaghettini – tomato infused fresh egg long pasta, spanner crab meat, chilli, garlic, bread crumbs

Strozzapreti – twisted pasta, king prawns, garlic, chilli, black olives in a tomato and calamari sauce ($30.00).

Dylan also ordered pasta but opted for the bolder flavoured strozzapreti (which really does translate to ‘priest strangler’ due to its unique shape, reminiscent of a priest’s collar). Again we had superbly cooked al dente pasta coated in a tomato and calamari sauce which is made with a tomato passata and minced calamari to add another level of dimension to the sauce. Tossed with perfectly cooked prawns, garlic, red chilli, black olives and fresh basil it offered such a rich umami feel that Dylan loves so much, he was in heaven. This is a dish that has been on the menu for a very long time and for good reason.

Strozzapreti – twisted pasta, king prawns, garlic, chilli, black olives in a tomato and calamari sauce

Vitello ‘Parmigiana’ – crumbed veal backstrap, napolitana sauce, buffalo mozzarella, semi-dried cherry tomatoes, parmesan crisps, basil ($40.00).

If you thought a platter of cured meats and pasta would lead to dessert you’d be mistaken. We set out for a long lunch and we intended to make the most of it. For main it was the parmigiana for me. Parmigiana is one of the greatest fried foods on earth. It’s often done poorly but when done well it can make you realise why plain old schnitzel is not always enough.

Veal backstrap was flattened, crumbed and fried to perfection. Showing great restraint the level of sauce offered allowed the stunning veal to remain the star of the show. Buffalo mozzarella was melted over the top and then the dish got a little fancy with semi-dried tomatoes that added a sharp tomato element – sweet and full of flavour, with parmesan crisps adding both colour, texture and saltiness. It was a twist on an Italian classic too often bastardised in pubs. It was an outstanding rendition.

Vitello ‘Parmigiana’ – crumbed veal backstrap, napolitana sauce, buffalo mozzarella, semi-dried cherry tomatoes, parmesan crisps, basil

Agnello – White Pyrenees lamb rump, roasted cauliflower, semi-dried tomatoes, yoghurt, 10 year old balsamic, mint ($43.00).

More often than not Dylan will order beef so it’s nice to see him order something different for a change. The lamb rump was sliced and laid on a bed of small pieces of heavily roasted cauliflower. Blobs of yoghurt dotted the dish but it was the blushing pink of the lamb rump, cooked just to our liking that was in the limelight. Shards of mint and healthy hits of semi-dried tomato did so well to extend the flavours of lamb produced by the charred skin, melting fat and juicy meat. There was a lot going on but in such a calm and precise way it would outplay many beef dishes.

Agnello – White Pyrenees lamb rump, roasted cauliflower, semi-dried tomatoes, yoghurt, 10 year old balsamic, mint

Affogato – vanilla bean gelato topped with espresso, Nocello liqueur ($19.00).

When it comes to dessert it’s not often that Dylan and I are on the same page. But with the sun beating down neither of us fancied a heavy dessert and both opted for an affogato; a dessert the combines gelato with both alcohol and coffee.

At Otto you don’t get one measly scoop of gelato. Heck you don’t get two. You get a generous (and delightful) three scoops of heavenly gelato with visible flecks of vanilla and a silky texture. The espresso shot was decent for a restaurant (the Italians generally get espresso right) and the Nocello, an Italian liqueur made from walnuts and hazelnuts, served in a chilled glass and ample to ‘drown’ the gelato with a rich nuttiness, reminding me that affogatos really are a marvellous thing.

Affogato – vanilla bean gelato topped with espresso, Nocello liqueur

And so we came to the end of our long lunch. Best friends, incredible food and an outstanding location, you can’t ask for much more than that. Head chef Richard Ptacnik may not be Italian but he sure knows how to cook it. The food at Otto is traditional Italian with a slight twist, and Sydney is all the more better for it. We just need to plot our return before another ten years passes us by.

Otto Ristorante
Shop 8, 6 Cowper Wharf Road
Woolloomooloo NSW
(02) 9368 7488
Otto Ristorante Website

Rosetta

Rosetta is the only Rockpool Group restaurant that we were yet to dine at – and that is only because it happens to be interstate. But for New Year’s Eve we decided to do things a little different and celebrate down in Melbourne. To make it more ‘fun’ we decided it would have to be a road trip. Our convoy (2 cars is a convoy, right?) set off in the wee hours of Tuesday morning so we had time to get to our hotel, freshen up and head out on the town.

When planning ahead, as Lex & I tend to do, a booking for dinner was a must. We had to ensure the restaurant would be open and able to accommodate a large group too. Rosetta just happened to tick all of these boxes so we booked it in as it seemed a great way to finish off the day after a 10 hour drive. Although we had heard mixed reviews about the place we were still keen to go and try it for ourselves.

Spaghetti – Pipies with white wine, chilli and garlic ($35.00).

When it came to the menu it seemed we had a diverse group, Lex & I were the only ones to be considering pasta & a main as everyone else was being sensible with thoughts of entrées and pasta, or shared anitpasti and pastas. Once I had decided I wanted pasta to start I began to whittle down the list of candidates before settling on the spaghetti with pipies, mostly because as of late seafood pastas have just been spot on for me.

I took the first pipi out of its shell and gave it a try, it was sweet and salty, a great little gem. Working quickly I popped them all out of their shells to get them in the sauce and pasta. There was quite a body to the emulsion and it clung to the spaghetti well, the pasta itself was cooked al dente as it should be. It was a great combo, a very slight hint of chilli and a good amount of acid from the white wine melded well with the pipies. My only issue was by the end of the dish the level of salt felt a bit too much.

Spaghetti – Pipies with white wine, chilli and garlic

Tagliarini Neri – with warm spanner crab, fresh chilli and lemon ($35.00).

Following suit Lex also started with a pasta, and just like me it was a process of elimination that was employed to come to a final choice of squid ink tagliarini. When it came to looks I had food envy right away, a generous pile of creamy white spanner crab sitting on top of black pasta made for a visually stunning dish. Even more impressive than presentation the flavour just wowed us both. The lemon helped accentuate the delicate sweetness of the stunning crab and the chilli paired ever so well with the clean salty squid ink in the pasta to make this dish a real winner and quite easily the dish of the night.

Tagliarini Neri – with warm spanner crab, fresh chilli and lemon

Agnello – Hay baked lamb rack with braised peas and prosciutto ($49.00).

For a change I decided I should skip the steak option and go for something different and it was the lamb rack that really stood out as a suitable replacement for my beloved beef. When it arrived a smile came across my face as I took stock of how awesome it looked. Quite a generous portion and impeccably cooked, the lamb was so soft and succulent and there was only the faintest hint of the hay it had been baked in. Continuing on with the good flavours was the superb combo of peas and prosciutto, sweet freshness from peas and salty richness from prosciutto.

Agnello – Hay baked lamb rack with braised peas and prosciutto

Tagliata di Manzo – Charcoal grilled Rangers Valley flank steak with pesto trapanese ($42.00).

With the idea of sharing our mains Lex was generous enough to order the flank steak so I wouldn’t have to miss out on my beef hit. The steak itself was spot on, a great amount of char and cooked to a blushing medium rare, there was a bit of extra bite from being flank but that is to be expected and something I rather enjoy.

For me the trapanese was great, it was full of real big hitters, olives, garlic, basil and balsamic vinegar, but for Lex the sheer amount of balsamic swamped everything and became the one thing that took over. Because she was unable to finish it I took it upon myself to, and even for me the sauce became too much to handle by the end.

Tagliata di Manzo – Charcoal grilled Rangers Valley flank steak with pesto trapanese

Patate – Crispy potatoes with rosemary salt ($10.00).

Somehow we were convinced by our waiter to order sides. We were reluctant but had our arms twisted enough to settle on roast potatoes, but not just one serve, two! Definitely bonus point to our waiter in getting the sides in there, and by the time they arrived we knew they were never going to be finished. Large portions and a great little number to plonk on your plate to drink up leftover juices. As expected they were crisp and fluffy but there were just far too many for even the group of seven to finish.

Patate – Crispy potatoes with rosemary salt

Medium Strawberry Mascarpone Cake ($90.00).

Little did most of the group know there had been some secret squirrel business going on and as it was Archit’s birthday a cake had been organised. It wasn’t just any cake but Catherine Adams’ ever impressive Strawberry Mascarpone Cake! Presented to Archit with candle flickering away and a massive white disk with chocolate writing. He was suitably surprised with this number.

After being divvied up (by the kitchen) I got stuck into my sizeable portion and was met with a cake that became an instant favourite. Layers of ultra soft cake, super creamy and slightly tart mascarpone and slices of fresh strawberry made up the middle with flakes of dehydrated strawberry coating the outer. I just loved every little bit of it.

Medium Strawberry Mascarpone Cake

We feel we made a rookie mistake with our mains, it would have been a much better idea to start our order with some antipasti, followed by main sized pastas and finish with dessert but it was our own fault for not thinking it through. A few in the group felt the main sized pastas were the same size as the entrée versions which never leaves a good impression – and nobody wants to feel like they are being short changed when the prices are up there. Food aside the service was faultless, attentive and knowledgeable, easily the best part of the restaurant and it was able to make up for the odd miss here and there with the food.

Rosetta Ristorante
Crown Melbourne
8 Whiteman Street
Southbank VIC 3000
(03) 8648 1999
Rosetta Ristorante Website

Chin Chin Main Bar

One of the very best things about Chin Chin has to be the variety of dishes. Their focus spans the cuisine of South-East Asia which is vast and contains some of the best flavours on earth. A lot of my favourite dishes come from this part of the world. Being our third or fourth visit we diversified and only ordered dishes we’d not yet tried. We hadn’t even planned this visit, we were happily walking up Flinders Lane to try and get in a late breakfast at one of our Melbourne mainstays Cumulus Inc. but as fate would have it the line was out the door and we were told their breakfast service would finish before we got a table.

We did a quick one-eighty and strolled down the lane to Chin Chin for what was no longer brunch, but an early lunch. Being nice and early meant no wait time at all, we were seated almost instantly. It’s never too early for wine when on holidays (even though it was a working holiday for me) so a couple of glasses of the lovely house white were ordered while we looked at the menu. A dish that was recommended on our very first visit was the crispy barramundi so we knew that was on the list, but as for the rest it was really just a matter of seeing what took our fancy.

Wok Fried Salt & Pepper Squid with Nuoc Cham & Vietnamese Mint ($14.00 – small).

For once we started out sensibly and went with the small serving of salt & pepper squid after seeing how good it looked at another table. If all squid/calamari was as incredible as this you would order it every time you saw it on a menu. Light and crisp, the floured batter had the right amount of seasoning and with the almost silky squid it was sublime, and even though I’m not a huge fan of Vietnamese mint it was the perfect addition. Probably the best salt and pepper squid I’ve ever had.

Wok Fried Salt & Pepper Squid with Nuoc Cham & Vietnamese Mint

Grilled Roti Madtarbak filled with Indian Spiced Beef & a Cucumber Relish ($12.00).

Loving roti, beef, Indian spices and cucumber Lex made sure we ordered the madtarbak this time round. Being grilled the roti was suitably crunchy, reminiscent of a spicy samosa but a bit more giving and it was quite adept at keeping the filling in place. Not only was the minced beef adequately spiced with cumin, coriander, turmeric and cardamom but there were also glass noodles, onions and spinach (I think) filling out the little squares. Balancing the great mix of spices was the cucumber relish, albeit a tad heavy on the vinegar side for Lex to truly love it.

Grilled Roti Madtarbak filled with Indian Spiced Beef & a Cucumber Relish

Crispy Barramundi and Green Apple Salad with Caramelised Pork, Chilli & Lemongrass ($26.00).

Since the waitress’ recommendation on our first visit (which we didn’t take up at the time) we’ve wanted to come back and try barramundi and pork, making this our most anticipated Chin Chin dish of all time. Anyone who knows me would be aware that if there was a choice between fish or pork I’d rate the fish as highly as a lettuce leaf in comparison to my beloved pork, so having them in the same dish would be a new thing.

Gelatinous and supremely sticky the pork was a hit, big flavours all round that were kept in check by the sweet and sour elements in the salad. Quite opposite to the pork was the fish, impeccably cooked and holding up to its crispy namesake. The barramundi was awesome and to my surprise it was an even better match to the apple and herb salad. What element was my fave? It had to be the pork but only by a smidge.

Crispy Barramundi and Green Apple Salad with Caramelised Pork, Chilli & Lemongrass

Pad Kaphrao – Stir Fry of Minced Free Range Chicken, Silken Eggplant & Baby Corn with Holy Basil, Oyster Sauce & Scud Chilli ($25.00).

Our final dish was again something different, but familiar all the same. It was the mention of scuds that caught my attention as I love both the heat and the flavour they impart. It may appear similar to larb gai in that minced chicken is used but to keen Thai food lovers out there the name gives it away – this is Thai basil chicken.

Both fried and fresh holy basil created the backbone that could be tasted throughout the dish and the soy and oyster sauces gave it a subtle richness. Though it was the silky eggplant and heat from the scuds that made this stand out from other Pad Kaphraos I’ve had in the past.

Pad Kaphrao – Stir Fry of Minced Free Range Chicken, Silken Eggplant & Baby Corn with Holy Basil, Oyster Sauce & Scud Chilli

Another big tick once again. We were impressed by everything we ate (and drank) at Chin Chin. In fact, there is yet to be a single dish on the menu we wouldn’t hesitate to order again. Another important thing to note is that we are slowly learning the right amount of food to order here. This time around we were only slightly over the limit, which was a nice change. If Cumulus Inc. is our breakfast/brunch Melbourne mainstay then I would have to say that Chin Chin holds the lunchtime spot with ease.

Chin Chin Cookbooks

Chin Chin
125 Flinders Lane
Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 8663 2000
Chin Chin Website

The Town Mouse

There are all kinds of friends in life and when you are into food like we are some of the best are your dining buddies; you go to every new place with them, get terribly drunk at your regular haunts with them and suggest places you MUST eat at, around town and interstate, when not dining with them.

Mr O. as he loves to be called on this blog is one of those friends, and a place he would often wax lyrical about was The Town Mouse. I think he may be more of a regular in some Melbourne joints than I am in ANY Sydney restaurant, but his suggestions are always on point and when he says we MUST go somewhere, we listen.

When it comes to booking at The Town Mouse (which isn’t a necessity as they have many tables set aside for walk-ins, but when travelling from interstate you don’t want to risk missing out) you can choose to sit at a table or at the bar. As we only locked in our trip at short notice all that was available was a spot at the bar. Mr. O only ever sits at the bar so it can’t be all that bad.

Perched up on bar stools that felt a tad too small, right in the middle of the bar we got to work checking out if the dishes that had been suggested were still on offer. Thankfully the lion’s share of big hitters were available so it was time to begin.

Smoked duck liver parfait, pickled cucumber & crisp potato ($3.50).

With the menu split into concise sections we began at the beginning in the aptly named section TO START. Duck liver parfait may well be one of the best things on the planet, but smoking something so decadent cranks it up that little bit further. There was level upon level of awesome going on in this little starter, smoky rich creamy parfait, lightly pickled cucumber that retained its crispness and a mix of toasted nuts all layered onto a wafer-thin crisped slice of potato, it was out of this world amazing.

Smoked duck liver parfait, pickled cucumber & crisp potato

Goat’s cheese profiterole, caraway, thyme & our honey ($3.50).

In the same way that any liver parfait draws us in, goat’s cheese tends to do the same, so it was a given that we were going to order their little puffs of choux pastry piped full of goat’s cheese goodness. Glued to the plate with honey sourced from the hive on their roof, sprinklings of caraway and thyme all combined for a welcome change from a sweet profiterole. Creamy, salty and wonderfully tart the goat’s cheese mousse was great and the classic combination with honey made for a light treat.

Goat’s cheese profiterole, caraway, thyme & our honey

Shaved calamari, oyster cream, dill & fermented apple juice ($15.00).

Moving into the RAW section saw the calamari dish ordered and when it arrived it really surprised with how elegant it looked, so much precision and delicate work had gone into the plate it was a shame we had to mess it all up. Like wisps of sea air the meticulously shaved calamari had been cooked sous vide and added an essence of the ocean but it was the little dollops of oyster cream that brought the seafood feel to the dish. Mini matchsticks of green apple contrasted the fermented apple juice and much the same with dill fronds bright and fresh to go with the dill oil swirling about. A single ‘noodle’ of salted cucumber added that final touch to really make this a superbly put together dish.

Shaved calamari, oyster cream, dill & fermented apple juice

Caramelised cauliflower, yoghurt, lemon & vadouvan ($11.00).

One of the many recommendations we had been given was the cauliflower, it was our only pick from the VEGETABLES section because we were told it was the best cauliflower dish ever created. Supremely caramelised there was not a single overly burnt part anywhere to be seen just dark golden edges bursting with flavour. Adding to the roasted nature of the dish were hits from cumin, fenugreek and mustard coming from the vadouvan with some toasted almond flakes for good measure. To counter the spices was lemon and yoghurt in the base of the bowl and to finish a scattering of parsley. I loved every bit of it and all the textures at play. It was great but not quite the best ever.

Caramelised cauliflower, yoghurt, lemon & vadouvan

Smoked pork jowl, hispi cabbage, hazelnut & sour pear ($24.00).

Getting near the pointy end of the menu MEAT & FISH feature in all their glory. Yet another recommendation had us go for the smoked pork jowl, ruling out the duck and black angus for mains. I love pork jowl, it’s fatty, juicy and just all kinds of happy on a plate; my all-time favourite version being Quay’s rendition sitting under a maltose crackling. Smoking meats can dry them out and ruin it or – as was the case here – lift them to immeasurable heights. Although quite heavy on the smoke the richness of the jowl was able to handle it, and when combined with a touch of sour pear or even a sliver of pickled onion a balance was met that I thoroughly enjoyed.

Smoked pork jowl, hispi cabbage, hazelnut & sour pear

Buttermilk poached pear, walnut, caramel, roast chocolate & pear sorbet ($15.00).

It was time for DESSERT. There was one dish that Lex wanted to order above any other – the buttermilk poached pear. For me I had no idea about this dish prior to our visit and Lex only wanted it having seen it pop up on social media. Neither of us knew it had been featured on MasterChef until our waiter told us about its popularity post stardom and how it was to come off the menu finally. This night was the last it was to be on the menu, Lex’s stars had aligned, she would get her wish of trying this dish.

Pear desserts are my kind of thing; often less sweet than other fruit desserts and they have such a unique texture and clean precise flavour. Beautiful in presentation fine slivers of pear skin were draped over the pear sorbet and together they wowed with perfect and differing tones of pear. Piped around the sorbet was the incredible roast white chocolate ganache that was sweet but not overpoweringly so, and hiding below the ring the poached pieces done so in buttermilk made for a smoother than raw pear texture while retaining some bite, with the poaching imparting a faint but very much desired milky essence. Salted caramel just boosted everything and the walnuts – done three ways: toasted, crumbed and as a praline – all varied greatly in feel and taste. So many elements that mesh together spectacularly well and we felt privileged to try it on its final night.

Buttermilk poached pear, walnut, caramel, roast chocolate & pear sorbet

Elderflower sherbet, rosemary & vermouth ($6.00).

To counter whatever level of sweetness the pear dish would bring I felt like something super light and refreshing, and hence was suggested the elderflower sherbet by our waiter. When it arrived I almost mistook it for mashed potato but closer inspection showed it to be the dessert we had ordered. Floral and sweet the elderflower sherbet was light and delicately creamy and the sweet vermouth worked surprisingly well at giving the whole dessert added sweetness and some herbal spicy tones to go with the finely ground rosemary. Happily this did exactly what I had hoped and allowed me to finish on a refreshing note.

Elderflower sherbet, rosemary & vermouth

After a little over 90 minutes eating away and sipping on wine the bar stools had definitely taken their toll with quite a case of numb bum setting in. That being said it was such a great place to be for the duration of our meal, it was super cool chatting away to the staff as they worked their magic behind the bar and bringing out our dishes. They offered great wine pairing suggestions, were impressively knowledgeable about the menu as well as how much to order.

We will definitely be heading back next time we are in town. We may go with a larger group and book a table so we can chillax a bit more and take up a little more space, but most likely it will be with Mr. O and the three of us will be back up at the bar enjoying every single second of it.

Street tables

The Town Mouse
312 Drummond Street
Carlton VIC 3000
(03) 9347 3312
http://www.thetownmouse.com.au/

Outdoor Seating

On previous trips to Melbourne we had noticed the Bowery to Williamsburg sign a few times on our way to one place or another and finally our curiosity got the better of us. Being a Friday morning it was the CBD office workers that were the majority in the cafe but it was still quite easy to get a spot.

Almost all of the seating is shared, with a long table able to accommodate around 12 people and a few other smaller tables inside for good measure. We were seated and given our menus, coffee orders were taken (strong lattes) and we began perusing the selection. It was harder than I thought as they serve quite a different fare compared to a typical Australian cafe, this was New York style through and through.

Padre Coffee Strong Latte with Hershey’s Kisses ($3.80)

Strong Latte & Hershey’s Kisses

Good Morning Cubano Sandwich – ham hock / fried egg / pickles / mustard / Swiss cheese on challah ($12.00)

Yes, I will admit it, I ordered the cubano because of the movie Chef. I knew very little about them before I watched it, but afterwards all I wanted was one of those sandwiches in my mouth. It turns out finding them is hard, way harder than it should be anyway. The whole concept of their Good Morning Cubano Sandwich seemed to be tailored to my tastes, it was only the egg I wasn’t too keen on, but without it they couldn’t really call it a ‘Good Morning’ sandwich.

Generously filled with soft and salty ham hock there was a lot going on and I really enjoyed the first half, a bit of pickle here, a nice dose of mustard there with some stringy cheese binding it all together but after a while my non-breakfast eating stomach was done. It was a nice sandwich, but not awesome enough for me to keep eating regardless of how full I was. In the end it was just too much to finish.

Good Morning Cubano Sandwich – ham hock / fried egg / pickles / mustard / Swiss cheese on challah

Shakshouka Baked Eggs – Broccoli / sesame breaded eggplant / haloumi / fresh herbs ($18.00).

Lex was torn between the mushroom ragout and the baked eggs, and when she decided on the baked eggs she was then torn between smoked salmon or the vegetarian option of broccoli. It was the haloumi that sealed the deal and Lex went for the vego option. When it arrived we both looked at each other and gave a little gasp, this thing was massive.

Although the haloumi was the draw card for Lex I think it was the sesame breaded eggplant that claimed top spot here, juicy and soft the eggplant worked so well with the toasted sesame coating. Both the eggs and cheese were good but we both hoped the tomato sauce would have had more of a spice kick to it. Much was the same with the bread – it was a great little number but missing the all-important ability to soak up the sauce and yolk. There was nothing wrong with the dish, on the contrary each element was great, but the sum was not greater than its parts.

Shakshouka Baked Eggs – Broccoli / sesame breaded eggplant / haloumi / fresh herbs

What I love about this place the most is the purity of the menu, there are no ‘Aussie’ compromises (except good coffee) and by keeping to this they offer something quite unique. We both thought our dishes were good but lacked that final touch to be great. That being said we wouldn’t hesitate to come back next time we are in the neighbourhood. And another thing worth noting is that this was only the breakfast menu. Having taken a peak at the lunch menu I noticed a few things that caught my eye, none more so than the Philly Cheese Steak; next visit I will be making sure I order one of those puppies.

Bowery to Williamsburg
16 Oliver Lane
Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9077 0162
Bowery to Williamsburg Facebook Page

Hare and Grace

When Dylan had to fly down to Melbourne for work there was one thing on my mind, a sneaky weekend feasting in one of our favourite cities. And so it came to be that I flew down to Melbourne on Thursday and headed straight for Hare & Grace.

Hare & Grace was Raymond Capaldi’s restaurant located in the forecourt of the Rialto. Sadly the restaurant has closed since our visit as the owners of the Rialto decided to develop the forecourt and Capaldi sold his business to them. It’s a sad state of affairs indeed as Hare & Grace was one of the best meals we experienced in 2014.

Dining Room

Stepping into Hare & Grace is like falling down the rabbit hole. Designed by Joost Bakker of Greenhouse by Joost fame, the space is dimly lit, there are bunches of twigs hanging from the ceiling (roots to the world above?), the tables are large and rustic and the walls are bedecked with sketches of animals.

Our waiter was friendly and extremely knowledgeable without being overfamiliar. Upon hearing I wasn’t drinking for the evening he asked about my likes and dislikes and came back with a mocktail that suited me to a tee. He also chose the perfect wine to accompany Dylan’s meal.

BREAD AND BUTTER (Complimentary).

Flying down to Melbourne mid-afternoon I’d missed out on a proper meal for lunch and was famished. With perfect timing to avoid turning hangry a wicker basket of sliced sourdough and soy & linseed bread arrived, accompanied with a quenelle of butter. Super fluffy with a beautiful crust the bread was delicious on its own but even better smeared with the butter that had been whipped with honey.

Bread and Butter

DEHYDRATED CARROT, ORANGE PEEL, WALNUT ($21.00).

It was curiosity that made me choose a vegetarian entree. I was curious to see how a dish of dehydrated carrot with orange peel and walnut would be served. A bed of walnut powder made using maltodextrin was our first glimpse into the world of molecular gastronomy that Raymond Capaldi is known for. It smacked my senses with the essence of walnut but then disintegrated moments later. Glazed carrots, dehydrated for an hour and cooked in veal jus (not a vegetarian dish after all) saw the natural sweetness of carrots enveloped in the buttery, savoury jus. While apple infused in orange sherry vinegar added sweetness kept in check with acidity. Each component on its own was outstanding but combined to produce a spectacular dish of earthy character with hints of sweetness and nuttiness.

Dehydrated Carrot, Orange Peel, Walnut

CONFIT SPRING ONION, WHITE PROSCIUTTO, MUSHROOM KETCHUP ($18.00).

Meanwhile the promise of white prosciutto – aka lardo or pork back fat – was too much for Dylan to go past. A plate of beige contrasted my bright starter and I wasn’t sure what I would think of Dylan’s dish. Spring onion, both raw & crisp and roasted & buttery, brought contrasting textures and onion flavouring which married well with the ‘mushroom ketchup’ of shiitake cream vinaigrette, all of which helped balance the unctuous white prosciutto. In similar fashion to my entree we loved each element though the white prosciutto that simply melted on the tongue was clearly the star of the dish.

Confit Spring Onion, White Prosciutto, Mushroom Ketchup

NAVARIN OF LAMB, RASPBERRY, PEAS, BEETROOT, WATERCRESS, MINT YOGHURT ($39.00).

Although tempted by the selection of steaks on offer I couldn’t go past the lamb. A navarin is a French ragout dating back to the 1800’s and the perfect dish for Spring lamb. What I wasn’t expecting was a dish plated as prettily as this. Tender and succulent the braised lamb was the perfect partner for tart raspberries, zingy peas, earthy beetroot, peppery watercress and the mint yoghurt. Each accompaniment added its own flair to the dish but I waxed lyrical about the lamb and raspberry combination for days afterward. This dish is what it’s all about – great produce, technique and marriage of flavours. Happiness on a plate.

Navarin of Lamb, Raspberry, Peas, Beetroot, Watercress, Mint Yoghurt,

100 DAY PASTURE FED, PREMIUM ANGUS SIRLOIN, 300 GRM, CLARE VALLEY GOLD, SA ($41.00).

No points for guessing what Dylan’s main of choice would be – beef of course. The only question was which cut? With a Sher Wagyu burger, Angus eye fillet (grain fed), Angus sirloin (pasture fed) and rib eye (grass fed) all options.

Pasture fed was the in-between and how Dylan settled on the Angus sirloin. Accompaniments also had to be decided upon but with so many options Dylan agreed with our waiter’s suggestion of both the horseradish and the chimichurri which Dylan’s been addicted to of late. The sirloin was cooked superbly, flavourful and tender, and I loved the intensity of the char.

100 Day Pasture Fed, Premium Angus Sirloin, 300 gram, Clare Valley Gold, SA

Accompanied by a bowl of wonderfully cooked shoestring fries and another bowl of butter lettuce this was a generous main meal and saw Dylan a very happy man.

French Fries

MIXED SALAD LEAVES, PEAR, WALNUT VINAIGRETTE ($10.00).

Dylan always likes a refreshing salad with a rich beef dish and so a side salad was required. What he didn’t realise at the time was his beef was already accompanied by butter lettuce dressed in a vinaigrette and so the side salad was redundant. Yes it did its job and the pear and walnut was enjoyable, though not for me and Dylan felt it wasn’t worth the money.

Mixed Salad Leaves, Pear, Walnut Vinaigrette

MASH ‘N’ GRAVY, 50/50 UNSALTED BUTTER, MEAT JUICE ($10.00).

I absolutely love mashed potato and thought there would be nothing better than a side of mash to go with my lamb. Our waiter agreed and so I felt no guilt in ordering a bowl of mash all to myself. Hare & Grace’s mash ‘n’ gravy is half potato and half butter. Yes, you read right. Half butter. This bowl of decadence is quite simply heaven on earth. But it’s not just the creamiest mash ever, it’s also doused in meat juices. Quite possibly the best mash I have ever eaten. Better than the truffle mash and Paris mash I’ve eaten in some of Sydney’s top restaurants. Vegetarians you’re absolutely missing out.

Mash ‘n’ Gravy, 50/50 Unsalted Butter, Meat Juice

PAVE OF CHOCOLATE, TRIPLE MILK SORBET, PEDRO JIMENEZ JELLY, CHOCOLATE SOIL ($15.00).

Dessert to be shared can often be a difficult decision but not this time around. Chocolate for her. PX for him. A great combination the pave of chocolate was lush and decadent, softened with the triple milk sorbet and indisputably PX jelly. Each element on its own was completely awesome but together made for one of Dylan’s favourite desserts and one we’d both happily devour again and again.

Pave of Chocolate, Triple Milk Sorbet, Pedro Jimenez Jelly, Chocolate Soil

Espresso ($4.00).

Ending a meal with a coffee is the perfect digestive and almost a must as far as I am concerned. While not a huge fan of Vittoria beans when there is a good barista involved it can be a decent coffee which was the case here. Served with a piece of pistachio biscotti and you can be sure I was a very happy customer.

Espresso & Pistachio Biscotti

Sadly Hare & Grace is no more and we only dined there once during its five year existence but that one meal was one of our favourites of 2014. Capaldi signalled he was stepping away from the kitchen, though we since hear he’s joined A25 Pizzeria. You all know how much Dylan and I love our pizza so no doubt that will make its way on to our Melbourne eating wish list.

Hare and Grace Mural

Hare & Grace
525 Collins Street
Melbourne VIC 3000
(03) 9629 6755
Hare & Grace Facebook Page

Black Star Pastry

After a morning workout at trampoline land, Sky Zone, what better way to spend the afternoon that a long lunch at Da Mario followed by dessert at Black Star Pastry. Yes, that is indeed how I planned our Saturday morning adventure to the inner west with Arch & Mim. After all, life is all about balance

Black Star Pastry is no news to Sydneysiders. Their strawberry watermelon cake has got to be one of the most Intagrammed desserts in Sydney. But if you have been living under a rock for the last eight years then let me introduce you. Christopher Thé is the brainchild behind Black Star Pastry, which he opened back in 2008 after years of experience in some of Sydney’s top kitchens.

Black Star Pastry Rosebery

Following the success of the Newtown original, Christopher opened another Black Star Pastry in Rosebery in 2014. The Rosebery cafe is just around the corner from Kitchen By Mike, Da Mario, Sky Zone and Dylan’s old apartment, though when he lived there the area was an industrial wasteland (imagine how awesome our locality would be had we bought that place!)

The cafe in Rosebery was positively jam-packed when we arrived and we were quite lucky to secure a table after only a short wait. The system is a little odd if you ask me. We had lined up at the counter to order only to be told there was table service. But on returning to our table we waited and waited and waited. Granted the cafe was busy but it took an age to be served. It would make more sense to us for orders to be placed at the counter (where you get to gander at all the desserts before ordering) and then food brought out to the tables.

[As an aside, on a return visit we noticed table numbers and assumed the system had changed – and it had, for the better. All orders are now placed at the counter, cold food handed straight over and a number taken back to the table for hot food to be brought out. This is a much better system.]

Counter

Strawberry and Watermelon Cake ($7.50).

The infamous strawberry and watermelon cake! It is hard to resist and delightfully so. Layers of almond dacquoise, watermelon and rosewater cream, decorated with strawberries, pistachio slivers and rose petals.

Strawberry and Watermelon Cake

I’m unsure if it’s the slightly crisp, refreshing watermelon or the freshly whipped cream, but there is just something about the combination that makes this cake greater than the sum of its parts. It’s so light and delicate you could eat it all year round. And it’s a taste sensation. A beautiful dessert and absolute masterpiece.

Strawberry and Watermelon Cake

Salted Caramel Pannacotta ($6.00).

Dylan chose a very Dylan style dessert with the salted caramel pannacotta. Served in a small plastic dessert cup the pannacotta wasn’t able to wobble on the plate like you would see in a restaurant but that didn’t take too much away. The set custard produced a wonderfully silky and light pannacotta, with visible flecks of vanilla bean throughout. Topped with a layer of lightly salted caramel jelly and gold leaf decoration for good measure. It’s not what I would call a salted caramel pannacotta as such but it is an enjoyable little pot nonetheless.

Salted Caramel Pannacotta

Orange and Almond Cake with Persian Fig ($4.50).

The strawberry watermelon cake was undoubtedly making an appearance but the difficulty lay in deciding what second dessert to order (because life would be boring if we only had one dessert each!) The final sweet treat to feature was an orange and almond cake with Persian fig. I’ve made a number of flourless orange cakes at home but using oranges from my garden I often find the cake a little too ‘wet’ and in need of more cooking time. Black Star’s flourless orange cake is fragrant and all importantly fluffy with a beautiful crumb not often seen in these types of cakes. Decorated with cream cheese icing, figs, pistachios and rose petals it’s another picturesque dessert that kicks goals in the flavour stakes.

Orange and Almond Cake with Persian Fig

Although constantly crowded the quality of Black Star’s desserts makes it worth the wait, the money and definitely worth every single calorie. The fact that it’s located a short stroll from our favourite pizzeria makes for a dangerous combination.

Black Star Pastry
C1 85-113 Dunning Avenue
Rosebery NSW 2018
(02) 9557 8656
Black Star Pastry Website

View into Restaurant

When we got word that Kylie was moving her restaurant to Potts Point we lamented the fact that we had not returned since our very first visit (and very first blog post) nearly 5 years ago. It just so happened we spotted an Instagram by Kylie saying that for the last 19 days of service they would have a special farewell menu comprising the dishes synonymous with the restaurant. Without hesitation we booked (no, we did not know they had taken bookings for some time) our spot ready for one last hurrah in the original location.

Kylie’s handwritten specials menu was so hard to read with her large flowing cursive that I had to hand it over to Lex. In what ended up being a team effort we got our heads around it and could see it was made up of all the dishes that have been the mainstays on the menu over the years with quite a lot more native Australian ingredients appearing. A lot of the dishes were ones we had tried in our original banquet with a few new classics filling it out nicely.

Kylie’s Banquet – $95 per person

• Homemade Chinese Pickles
• Sashimi of Hiramasa Kingfish with Mat Lindsay’s Dressing
• Crispy House Cricket & Prawn Wontons with Sweet Chilli Sauce
• Steamed Vegetable Dumplings with Warrigal Greens
• Crisp Organic Salt Bush Cakes
• Wok Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with Beef & Black Bean
• Sung Choi Bao of Certified-Free Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms
• Homestyle Fried Biodynamic Eggs with Organic Tamari & Homemade XO
• Steamed Fillet of Snapper with Ginger & Shallot
• Steamed Organic Chinese Greens with Organic Tamari
• Red-Braised, Caramelised Flinders Island Wallaby Tail with Black Bean & Chilli
• Crisp Skin Duck with Orange & Quandong
• Poached Organic Pears, Crème Fraiche & Macadamia Praline

Homemade Chinese Pickles.

Although we were having the banquet there was no running order given and each dish was introduced as it came. First up were homemade Chinese pickles using Kylie’s grandfather’s recipe. On top were wonton wrappers puffed and crisp with a dusting of pepper. They were mega crunchy and we loved them. All of the vegetables were doused in chilli oil making them nice and warming, and everything was well pickled. There was cabbage, carrot, cucumber, daikon and radish and I was lucky enough to claim almost all of these as Lex and Em are not fans of pickles.

Homemade Chinese Pickles

Sashimi of Hiramasa Kingfish with Mat Lindsay’s Dressing.

Mat Lindsay’s legacy at Billy Kwong lives on through his amazing sashimi dressing. It is simple with hints of sweetness, some salt from soy and zing from ginger. Dressed in the wonderful concoction was my favourite of all sashimi, Hiramasa Kingfish. Super delicate with its distinctive texture, the sweetness of the fish and the dressing were perfect together while the soy and ginger gave it a little extra depth. Superb.

Sashimi of Hiramasa Kingfish with Mat Lindsay’s Dressing

Crispy House Cricket & Prawn Wontons with Sweet Chilli Sauce.

Other than being asked if there were any foods or ingredients we didn’t like (Em vetoed oysters) the only other question was if we were too squeamish to try the cricket and prawn wontons. We were all game so next up we were getting our daily dose of insect. If there was not a deep-fried little critter propped on top of each wonton you would have never know there was anything different about them.

Crispy House Cricket & Prawn Wontons with Sweet Chilli Sauce

After a healthy dip in the sweet chilli dipping sauce I went to get the whole thing in my mouth, but that was a fail, so I bit it in half and was hit with big chunks of juicy prawn meat. My second attempt included the cricket and to be honest there was no way to tell if it was there or not as the wontons were so crispy and the steamed prawn so flavoursome.

Crispy House Cricket & Prawn Wontons with Sweet Chilli Sauce

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings with Warrigal Greens.

Translucent and piping hot the dumplings arrived and we could see the greens were such a deep rich colour through the dumpling skin, it was evident that it was going to be a great filling. They were lovely soft dumplings and yes the native greens were stellar. The dipping sauce of Shaoxing wine and chilli was just the thing to pair with the herbaceous grassy greens, but I would not recommend sampling the dipping sauce just on its own, it was not as pleasant as I thought it may have been.

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings with Warrigal Greens

Crisp Organic Salt Bush Cakes.

Continuing along with the native Australian ingredient theme next up we had the salt bush cakes. I’m not sure what I had in mind but they were quite different to what I had expected, the crescent-shaped pastries made with biodynamic wheat flour and lots of butter were crumbly and the filling itself also had great crunch. While the cakes were quite good I was instantly drawn to the housemade chilli that was fresh, packed a little heat and was something I wanted to put on every dish that we had coming up.

Crisp Organic Salt Bush Cakes

Wok Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with Beef & Black Bean.

When reading the specials menu I misread the description of the noodle rolls and had thought these were going to be egg rolls so as they arrived my perplexed look had Lex needing to explain they were rice noodle rolls, fried off in the wok to make the silky noodles crisp on the outside. Inside there was a marvellous little stuffing of braised beef, mushrooms and shallots and on top a black bean sauce, celery cress and super fine threads of chilli. These were superb, one of my favourite Billy Kwong dishes to date.

Wok Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with Beef & Black Bean

Sung Choi Bao of Certified-Free Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms.

With the minor morsels done it was time for the more substantial dishes to start flowing and first up was the pork sung choi bao an all-time favourite of mine and something I make versions of at home quite often. Iceberg lettuce cups at the ready I loaded up on more of the magical housemade chilli, some mint and coriander and then stuffed as much of the juicy pork filling in as I dared.

Sung Choi Bao of Certified-Free Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms

Making a right proper mess is how I think you must eat sung choi bao, either that or I am terrible at eating it correctly. Light on the flavourings it was really all left to the pork to shine and be accentuated by the spice from the ginger, earthiness of mushrooms, sweetness of carrot and clean crunch of bean sprouts.

Sung Choi Bao of Certified-Free Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms

Homestyle Fried Biodynamic Eggs with Organic Tamari & Homemade XO.

Of all the dishes at Billy Kwong the fried egg was one Lex & I had been hoping would make it onto the banquet menu. When we saw Kylie making this dish on Kylie Kwong: Heart and Soul we knew we had to try it one day. It seemed this was our lucky day. So simple yet stunning there are so many adjectives to use for the eggs: crisp, fluffy, gooey and runny are just a few, and all of them things that this dish is, and all at the same time. Not only did we have amazing egg there was a kick from the chilli and wonderfully rich XO that both complimented the sensational egg.

Homestyle Fried Biodynamic Eggs with Organic Tamari & Homemade XO

Steamed Fillet of Snapper with Ginger & Shallot.

A dish that both Lex & I were very familiar with was the steamed snapper. When we were on the hunt for different ways to cook fish at home we came across this recipe in Kylie’s Simple Chinese Cooking and after a very successful first attempt we proceeded to make it on a regular basis. Of all the types of fish she suggests to use snapper is by far the best option, it steams marvellously and when done just right it comes apart in large flakes and is ever so silky and delicate. Both the shallot and coriander lift the dish but my favourite is the white pepper and ginger combination that really seals the deal for me with this one.

Steamed Fillet of Snapper with Ginger & Shallot

Steamed Organic Chinese Greens with Organic Tamari.

What would a banquet be without a plate of lovely steamed greens? Swimming in an organic tamari dressing the bok choy, gai larn and choy sum each added their own nuances to a dish that is the perfect lead up to the more heavy mains that were to come.

Steamed Organic Chinese Greens with Organic Tamari

Red-Braised, Caramelised Flinders Island Wallaby Tail with Black Bean & Chilli.

When it comes to Australian ingredients wallaby would have to be up there as one that I doubt very few people would have ever thought of as a food let alone dined in a restaurant that served it. Lex & I had our first taste of wallaby at Vue De Monde in 2013 and we had heard of Billy Kwong serving it not too long after that.

Red-Braised, Caramelised Flinders Island Wallaby Tail with Black Bean & Chilli

Treated in much the same manner as you would ox tail, the wallaby tail was slow braised for hours and served in a rich broth and topped with a generous amount of black beans. Again as with other cuts of this kind the meat fell apart at the slightest touch and was rich and juicy. It was a nice dish but my two issues were that the flavour seemed to be masked too much behind the black beans, and there were so many bones that it took some work to pick through to the good bits.

Red-Braised, Caramelised Flinders Island Wallaby Tail with Black Bean & Chilli

Crisp Skin Duck with Orange & Quandong.

And finally the pièce de résistance was the infamous crisp skin duck. This revision’s main point of difference was the addition of yet another Australian native the quandong, and the unique dessert fruit really made itself known throughout the dish with its tart sweetness. As the name suggests the skin was ever so crisp and nicely charred, the flesh packed full of flavour just as I remembered it. However my preference would have to be with the older version of the dish, it was so redolent of spice and only softened by the citrus sauce whereas this version was too sweet to be as enjoyable.

Crisp Skin Duck with Orange & Quandong

Poached Organic Pears, Crème Fraiche & Macadamia Praline.

After twelve courses it was only natural to have one more in the form of a dessert. Just as last time we had simple pears in their soothing poaching juices but whereas last time there was a big hit of spice this time it was more subdued and all the better for it. Keeping with the light theme the crème fraiche kept the sweetness in check and the final nod towards Australian native ingredients was in the form of some seriously addictive macadamia praline.

Poached Organic Pears, Crème Fraiche & Macadamia Praline

If we had thought it through we probably would not have gone with the banquet due to the sheer size of it but moderation is not something we know when it comes to dining out. Our mindset of going all out to ensure we don’t miss anything means we are often a little too indulgent but on the flipside it means we never go away wishing we had tried something.

If we were to compare our two visits I would have to say I preferred most of what we had on our first visit over the updated versions we had this time around. The main reason is that I felt some dishes had lost their purity or were taken a bit further in the flavour stakes to their detriment. There wasn’t a single dish I disliked but it didn’t have the same impact as it had 5 years earlier. Time to check it out in the new location then.

Billy Kwong
Shop 3, 355 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
(02) 9332 3300
Billy Kwong Website

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Four Frogs Creperie

The last time we were in Melbourne we sussed out the crepe offering at Roule Galette which wasn’t too shabby at all, but I was keen to find a crepiere closer to home to satisfy my crepe cravings. And when in the space of just a few days a handful of people told me about Four Frogs I took it as a sign. We set off on a Sunday morning adventure over to the north shore with our friends Arch & Mim in search of delicious galettes and crepes.

Four Frogs was opened by four Frenchmen who came to Sydney and loved everything it had to offer. With them they brought a little bit of France. Florian Guillemard, Four Frogs’ founder hails from Bretagne (Brittany) where the crepe originated.

Having heard good things we weren’t surprised to find the place bustling when we arrived. But good things come to those who wait and we were happy to soak up the glorious sunshine while we did. In the end the wait was only about ten minutes, if that.

Crepe making action

Latte ($3.50).

We were off to a good start with French speaking waiters. The next thing to do was decide whether to choose savoury galettes or sweet crepes. Easy, both! But while I wake up and am already thinking about breakfast, having just dreamed about breakfast, and no doubt planning lunch in the back of my mind, Dylan needs one thing to kick start the day. Coffee. And although we’d had a coffee before we left home some days require multiple coffees. If you’re like Dylan and need a coffee (or two) and you manage to resist pairing your galette with a cider or a milkshake I am pleased to report that Four Frogs make a decent coffee.

Latte

Spinach, feta, mushroom & avocado galette ($14.00).

I’m a bit of a sucker for cheese and spinach (just ask Dylan, EVERY TIME we go to a festival/concert/football/event and there is a gozleme stall I am in there in a flash) and so I was instantly drawn to the spinach, feta, mushroom and avocado galette. I know, I know, it’s not traditional, but we’re not in France so I’m sure it’s ok!

The galette came out golden brown and piping hot. The buckwheat crepe was delicate and whisper thin, nicely golden and crisp without being dry. I loved the combination of fresh spinach leaves with lightly wilted ones, buttery mushrooms, salty kick from the feta and creaminess of the avocado. Spinach and feta are a classic combination but the earthy mushrooms and creamy avo made it well rounded. A fresh squeeze of lemon added that perfect acidic finish.

Spinach, feta, mushroom & avocado galette

Salted caramel milkshake ($5.50 kids / $6.50 regular).

And because I wasn’t drinking and therefore not downing a cider with my galette, my drink of choice was one of my favourites, a salted caramel milkshake. Now being a yo-yo dieter that I am I don’t drink milkshakes too often. But when I do I want it to be worth every calorie and there are two things it needs to be: creamy and flavourful. Tick and tick. This kids size milkshake (damn, should have got the regular size) was nice and rich on the caramel front with the perfect amount of salt to offset the sweetness, plus it was super creamy. Unfortunately for me I downed it in a few gulps.

Salted caramel milkshake

Prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella & parmesan ($16.00).

Dylan probably would have been satisfied with just a coffee (seriously, who doesn’t like breakfast – or brunch for that matter?!?!) but after much consideration he finally chose the prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella and parmesan galette. It was nice to see the galette come out with the prosciutto in prime position on top and not hidden away or non-existent. Another solid galette the prosciutto was shaved and fresher than the usual deli fare. Having said that the galette fell a little short in comparison to my vego option; it needed a little extra oomph from the mozzarella to match the salty prosciutto and tart tomato.

Prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella & parmesan galette

Special – banana, maple syrup, vanilla bean mascarpone, almond praline ($16.00).

Dylan’s “I don’t have room for dessert” mantra *almost* made me feel too guilty to order a sweet crepe. But then I decided that would be rather foolish of me. And Dylan said he’d have “a bite” so immediately all guilt washed away. The choice wasn’t easy but after much deliberation – and consultation with the waitress – we settled on the special. It was the maple syrup that hooked Dylan but for me it was the almond praline that sealed the deal.

Two superbly cooked crepes with chewy praline, tart mascarpone and a spot on amount of fresh banana and maple syrup made for an excellent sweet treat. I’m not usually a maple syrup fan but this was one instance where the perfect drizzle of syrup just made the dessert. Loved every mouthful (and next time I am not sharing).

Banana, maple syrup, vanilla bean mascarpone, almond praline

I’ve considered going back to Four Frogs on a number of occasions but it’s just that little bit too far away for me to pop in to and I’m yet to make it back. Having said that if anyone is keen for a crepe date I am in! And if you have any other creperie recommendations around Sydney let me know!

Four Frogs Creperie
175 Avenue Road
Mosman NSW 2088
(02) 9960 1555
Four Frogs Creperie Website

Sweet Belem Cake Boutique

I’d always heard Sydney’s best Portuguese tarts could be found at Sweet Belem but I never realised they were located in Petersham. That changed for the better over a feast at The Oxford Tavern. Demolishing a platter of meats and relaxing with a few drinks our friend Lil started telling us a little more about her suburb. As soon as the words Sweet Belem came out of her mouth I couldn’t think of anything but Portuguese tarts and how I could possibly get my hands on one.

Moments later when she uttered the words ‘just down the road’ all my Christmases came true. And so we happened upon Sweet Belem cake boutique where windows and cabinets were piled high with all kinds of sweet treats. I had my heart – and eyes – set on one thing. No points for guessing what.

Portuguese tarts

Belem tart ($3.30)

Back at Lil’s came the moment of truth. I could hear the shatter of pastry as I bit in and flakes went flying. The shell comprised layer upon layer of the most deliciously crisp, flaky pastry, yielding and making way for the egg custard which was suitably caramelised on top yet still slightly wobbly in the centre. Nuances of the cinnamon dusting married so well to the utterly divine custard. It was an absolutely heavenly tart.

Belem tarts

I have to agree with the masses – these are the best Portuguese tarts I’ve had the pleasure of eating. It was probably for the best that I didn’t buy a dozen as they wouldn’t have lasted too long at all. Lucky for me, now I know where to find Sydney’s best.

Sweet Belem
35B New Canterbury Road
Petersham NSW 2049
(02) 9572 6685

Menu wall

I can’t say the old Oxford Tavern is a place I ever visited. But the new digs is somewhere I’ve wanted to suss out for a while, especially since Jamie Thomas installed ‘Black Betty’ the smoker. A catch up with friends was the perfect excuse for a Sunday sesh. And what better way to spend a Sunday sesh than in a sunny courtyard with smoked meats, beers and a band?!

Arriving just before noon we were greeted by locked doors. The Oxford Tavern doesn’t open until midday on Sundays and we were early. I spotted Josh from Cafe Ish out front while we waited, he was clearly keen too. It didn’t take long for a crowd to gather and by the time the doors opened there were people everywhere. Shortly after that the place was packed.

Black Betty

Having dined at Papi Chulo earlier in the week it was going to be an interesting one. I know each place does their own thing but at the end of the day they’re both smokehouses to some extent (Papi Chulo is a smokehouse and The Oxford Tavern has a smoker out back but has a rather extensive menu totally separate from the smoker). It’s difficult not to compare the two, especially when having eaten at both in such a short period of time.

BBQ meats

As soon as we’d secured a table for the crew Dylan and I were off to order for the four of us who had arrived ahead of the rest. With a cabinet full of blackened, smoked meats the choice could easily have been overwhelming. But instead our order was simple, “Jamie, there are 4 of us, we want a bit of everything. Do it!”

Selection of meats and salad

Smoked pork snag ($7.00).

Not knowing where to start I grabbed a piece of the smoked pork snag. It was something that was not quite chorizo and not kransky, but a smoked pork sausage that brought the best of both worlds to the party. Smoked well and full of flavour, it was heavy on the paprika and garlic without ever being too much to handle. A world class snag that would hold its own against much of the competition.

Smoked pork snag

Pork ribs with honey Jack Daniels, black treacle and American mustard ($7.00 per 100g).

Next up was the special of the day, pork ribs marinaded in honey Jack Daniels, black treacle and American mustard. With a glossy sheen from the marinade and the smoking process leaving a vibrant pink hue they looked enticing. The pork ribs were well seasoned and a great flavour combination with a slight tang and beautiful sweetness from the black treacle. This was just the start of a messy affair as there was no leaving meat on these little babies, everyone in sight was gnawing away at the bones.

Pork ribs with honey Jack Daniels, black treacle and American mustard

Lamb ribs ($6.00 per 100g).

Continuing on with the rib theme I dove in to the lamb ribs. These beauties blew me away with their juicy, succulent meat that simply oozed flavour. Lamb fat is one of those things that for me absolutely has to be super hot and super tasty or I just can’t eat it. There was no need to worry about that here though as these lamb ribs were cooked so damn nicely the fat just melted in the mouth. Incredible.

Lamb ribs

Smoked 1/4 chook ($8.00).

Taking a slight detour from the heavier meats I decided to go for the chicken next which had been fairly low on my agenda. Well, the chicken sure as hell surprised me. The pure genius of a smoker is that it can take the most overused protein in Australian households and make it ooze flavour. Case in point, the amazing chook that was on offer. It is hard to explain how much depth Black Betty added to the humble chicken. BBQ chickens have come a long way over the years but this was next level.

Smoked 1/4 chook

Beef brisket ($8.00 per 100g).

Heading into the home straight I was into the beef brisket. I’ve had a lot of poor renditions of beef brisket in my time and have been searching for something to fill the beef brisket hole in my heart that Mable’s Smokehouse created when I couldn’t stay in New York and forever devour their smoked meats. Could this be it? Well, Jamie Thomas sure is the master. With its indelible ‘smoke ring’ the beef brisket looked stellar and hit the spot on the smoky factor, had a wonderful texture, was juicy and meltingly tender.

Beef brisket

Pulled pork ($6.00 per 100g).

While licking my lips after the brisket I couldn’t forget the pulled pork. I saved the bread roll to pack full of pork as that is always an epic combo. Long strands of pulled pork were tender, luscious and delicious. Yet while it was a fantastic pulled pork, for me this was the one area Papi Chulo won over The Oxford, with their pulled pork leading the pack in the flavour stakes.

Pulled pork

Kale and edamame salad ($6.00).

To balance out all that meat we had a little coleslaw and kale salad on the side. I avoided the coleslaw as Dylan dubbed it not Lex-friendly (though he rated it highly) and dove in to the greens. Broccoli, kale and beans brought some freshness, lightness and crunch to the otherwise protein packed meal. A Bloody Mary or three washed the lot down beautifully.

Bloody Mary

Deep fried Gaytime ($9.00).

Now after all that meat you might think we were done and dusted. Don’t be silly. There was a deep fried Gaytime to be had. I can’t say ‘The Jelly Wrestle’ dessert spiked any interest but there were a few of us keen to see just what a deep fried 60s ice cream classic would be like. A bit of fun, yes. Better than the original? No.

Deep fried Gaytime

The Oxford’s courtyard is a great spot to sit back and enjoy a few drinks. Throw the likes of Papa Pilko And The Binrats into the mix and you’re in for an absolutely cracking afternoon. As for the smokehouse comparison, they are each awesome in their own right and I’d happily eat at both any day of the week. But on this occasion it was The Oxford for all things smoky and Papi Chulo for all the non-smoky dishes.

The Carrington may be gone but I’m glad Jamie’s got his new thing at The Oxford. The man knows food and the Drink n Dine group know pubs. Together they make an amazing team. Let’s hope they replace The Carrington with another classic in its midst.

Papa Pilko And The Binrats

The Oxford Tavern
1 New Canterbury Road
Petersham NSW 2049
(02) 8019 9351
The Oxford Tavern Website

Cho Cho San

Cho Cho San is the second joint venture of restaurateur Sam Christie and chef Jonathon Barthelmess (the first being The Apollo). Ever since opening in June the interwebs has been filled with smoked duck steamed buns, Petuna ocean trout, fried chicken and udon. With Japanese being one of Dylan and my favourite cuisines we had to get there to suss out the fusion factor.

I’ll admit it. I was disappointed not to see the duck buns on the menu. Why remove them from the menu when everyone is writing about them? That’s just not fair. With no duck buns on the menu and three rather stuffed chums following our epic session at Papi Chulo, ordering became a little difficult. We decided to order light.

Cho Cho San Entrance

Beef tataki, wild rice, ginger dressing ($18.00).

It started with beef. Beef tataki – a Japanese classic and one of Dylan and my favourite dishes. The slivers of beef short rib were ribboned with fat and looked a treat. Though having said that it looked quite different to normal as the sauce was in the bottom of the bowl and we’re more familiar with seeing meat bathing in a pool of sauce. Nevertheless we were curious. Lurking beneath the beef was the wild rice and citrus dressing which was big and bold, but I felt a slight disconnect between the beef and the dressing, the beef didn’t taste marinated or as tender as one would hope and the lack of searing threw us. A different take on a beef tataki, that’s for sure, but one that left us underwhelmed.

Beef tataki, wild rice, ginger dressing

Hiramasa Kingfish, daikon, soy ($20.00).

To continue with the not so heavy dishes Dylan had to order the kingfish which arrived next and looked quite splendid with a mountain of thinly grated daikon on top. Where the beef tataki missed the mark the kingfish hit home runs. Even though it was thickly sliced the silky sweet fish sung and there was nothing that was going to stop this from being a wonderful dish. Accentuating the already marvellous dish was egg yolk soy swirling in the bottom of the bowl, giving an already stellar dish another smashing texture. Beautiful produce can speak for itself, but these insightful additions made this fish king.

Hiramasa Kingfish, daikon, soy

Hokkaido scallops, corn, house-cured katsuobushi ($18.00).

Em’s choice, from the ‘raw’ section of the menu, was scallops presented thinly sliced on a bed of corn puree and nori paste with a decent scattering of bonito flakes on top. It was evident to see the quality of the scallops though sadly we found the bold flavours of the nori and bonito overpowering. The sweetness from the corn was also a dominant factor and while the elements on their own were exceptional the accompaniments overshone the natural delicate sweetness of the scallops making them feel lost in a sea of big flavours. I couldn’t help but feel disappointed.

Hokkaido scallops, corn, house-cured katsuobushi

Udon noodles, pork, chilli ($15.00).

Udon are one of my favourite noodles of all time and regardless of how much we’d scoffed at lunch the udon was to make an appearance at dinner. Pleasingly al dente noodles tossed with coarsely minced pork – perhaps a twist on an Italian bolognese – with blitzed tofu for a creamy touch and a sprinkling of sesame seeds and spring onion to finish. It was everything I wanted it to be: rich, hearty, umami. The chilli was rather mild to begin with but grew with the progression of the dish – it was definitely not a punch in the face kind of heat but a milder, tummy warming heat. And while I doubt you’ve ever find anything like this in Japan I would quite happily devour a bowl of this often. Japanese comfort food.

Udon noodles, pork, chilli

Calamari, lime ponzu ($16.00).

Our final dish took me by surprise, although I’d read the menu and knew the ingredients of the dish, when the calamari arrived at the table I was a little taken aback. I’m not sure why but I wasn’t expecting it to be served as it was. Probably because I’ve not had octopus like this in a Japanese restaurant before. Lime ponzu dressing was fragrant and zesty but couldn’t do much for the chewy, rubbery calamari. Sadly this was the entire table’s least favourite dish of the night.

Calamari, lime ponzu

The Scandinavian aesthetic and atmosphere of the space are great. The udon fantastic. But with all the hype my somewhat high expectations weren’t really met. I’m glad I’ve been and am curious to return and see what other interesting dishes the team are plating up. But for the whole I wouldn’t rush back, unless of course I had a craving for that udon dish. That dish is definitely worthy of a repeat visit.

Cho Cho San Dining Room

Cho Cho San
73 Macleay Street
Potts Point NSW 2011
(02) 9331 6601
Cho Cho San Website

Papi Chulo Entrance

Following on from our weekend away in the Hunter Valley we had two weeks of holidays booked for a Sydney ‘staycation’ and one place we were quite keen to hit was Papi Chulo, partly because we were heading to Oxford Tavern for a taste of what ‘Black Betty’ has to offer a few days later and of course what better way to spend a day than to travel by ferry on our beautiful harbour.

As soon as we opened the door the aromas of smoking, meats and barbeque sauce came at us thick and fast and oh boy was it intoxicatingly good. That is the perfect way to feel when you enter a smokehouse and grill and it really set the mood from the outset. Light and bright the entire space is well designed and very inviting, little tables here and there, generous spaces up at the bar and a wonderful view out to Manly Cove made for a picturesque setting.

Manly Cove

Set menu for 2+ – $65.00 per person

• Pea guacamole with tortilla chips
• DIY Kingfish ceviche tostada, jalapeño, lime
• Smoked hot wings, comeback sauce
• Roast cauliflower, romesco, parmesan, brown butter crumbs
• Grilled Fremantle octopus, crispy pork, green apple, kale
• Papi Chulo BBQ platter
• Vietnamese coleslaw
• Curly fries
• Warm chocolate chip cookie, vanilla malt ice cream, butterscotch sauce, macadamia brittle
• Strawberry sundae, shortbread ice cream, strawberries, meringue, macadamia shortbread

Papi Chulo Menu

We knew we needed a BBQ platter, the rest was just an added bonus. So with the set menu you get the best of it all, a great selection of what Papi Chulo offers. Not only was America’s Deep South represented but South America too with ceviche and tortillas on the menu – it is an ode to The Americas in a way.

Papi Chulo Bar

Pea guacamole with tortilla chips.

I’ll preface this with saying I had never seen or even heard of a guacamole made with peas before but let me tell you it was a revelation. Texturally it was just as you would expect from a guacamole but then the similarities fade, the peas were so vibrant and fresh and lime woke them up even further (if that is possible).

Pea guacamole

It was zingy, fresh and so moreish we couldn’t stop. Great little additions of crisp fried onions and a sprinkling of micro herbs sealed the deal completely and all of this was scooped up with the house made tortilla chips. Still warm and deftly salted they suited the peas and made for a superb way to start.

Tortilla chips

DIY Kingfish ceviche tostada, jalapeño, lime.

Seeing as we knew our hands would be getting quite messy from the BBQ platter still to come the make your own element of this dish suited us just fine. I adore kingfish so it was great to see it used in a Mexican kind of way. There was a nice level of heat produced by the fresh jalapeños and while the chilli fiend in me would have loved more I knew it was exactly what the dish needed. Complementing the kingfish and the chilli was a perfect amount of sweetness from pineapple and a fresh burst from the compressed celery which also added such a wonderful texture. Both the crisp toasted tortillas and lettuce were adept at carrying the ceviche yet each offered their own nuances to the dish.

DIY Kingfish ceviche tostada, jalapeño, lime

Smoked hot wings, comeback sauce.

How can you tell if someone knows how to deep fry something? You just look at the amount of oil left behind. When we saw the smoked hot wings it was evident these were cooked with great skill. Not a single wing had any oily feel to it, the dry rub seasoning was intact and they were juicy as one would hope. Again my tolerance for chilli meant that these were not even close to what I’d call ‘hot’ but it didn’t matter because they tasted so damn good, the smoking really added some complexity and it was all rounded off nicely with the comeback sauce that comprised of chilli powder and super creamy mayonnaise.

Smoked hot wings, comeback sauce

Roast cauliflower, romesco, parmesan, brown butter crumbs.

If there is only one way to get people to eat cauliflower I bet this is it, not that you could probably tell it was cauliflower at first thanks to the massive mound of grated Parmesan encompassing the whole dish. Charred and crunchy there was something magical about the cauliflower that had me going back for more. Part of it was due to the creamy romesco with its nutty undertone and sweet red capsicum front as well as the addictive crumbs that soaked up all of the brown butter they were cooked in. Best cauliflower ever.

Roast cauliflower, romesco, parmesan, brown butter crumbs

Grilled Fremantle octopus, crispy pork, green apple, kale.

To be honest I am not the greatest fan of octopus of any kind because it is so damn hard to find it done right. Braised and then barbequed for added complexity the Papi crew did well to create a pleasant dish where the octopus wasn’t tough and chewy but instead quite soft (compared to most) and easy to eat. The whole dish was reminiscent of a Thai beef salad with onion, mint, parsley and the sweet & sour of green apple filling the Thai profile but with some crisp pork nubbins giving a really good depth to everything. If I am honest it was the pork I enjoyed the most here.

Grilled Fremantle octopus, crispy pork, green apple, kale

Papi Chulo BBQ platter.

The reason to go to Papi Chulo is the Papi Chulo BBQ platter. Everything is cooked ‘low and slow’, hot smoked over wood for a minimum of six hours. A combination of Suffolk lamb ribs with Papi’s BBQ sauce, 150g each of Ranger’s Valley wagyu brisket, pulled Kurobuta pork shoulder, and smoked maple black pepper pork belly, as well as super soft sugary buns for good measure.

Deciding to start messy I was right into the lamb ribs. Wonderfully smoked and coated in a thick honey bbq marinade they were very good but lacking temperature to make the excessive fat palatable. More smoke was needed so the pork belly was up next. Again the temperature was quite low and coupled with it being dry it was everyone’s least favourite. Hoping things would pick up I portioned up the brisket and gave it a go. I am happy to report it was superb, soft and supple, dipped in the bbq sauce was a winner. Finally it was time for the pulled pork and finally we had a hit. Perfectly cooked and oozing flavour the pork shoulder and sauce stuffed into a tiny bun was super.

Papi Chulo BBQ platter

Vietnamese coleslaw.

With Lex being the avid condiment hater a coleslaw is something she would never normally eat, but as it was set down on the table we could see it was no ordinary sloppy sauced-to-the-max coleslaw but a vibrant mix of crisp vegetables and herbs. As per its namesake the sauce was quite Vietnamese with equal parts lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar and white vinegar. While vinegar is Lex’s worst enemy it was so subdued everyone got along fine. Shredded cabbage both purple and green, sliced onion along with mint and coriander worked so well with the sauce it was the best coleslaw Lex had ever had and it was up there on my list too.

Vietnamese coleslaw

Curly fries.

Fries, but curly. If you’d never had them before you would probably be wondering why everyone loves them so much, they are just fries. You’d be wrong. I’m sure there is no scientific reason for the love of curly fries but they always seem to be better than regular fries. Heavily curled with great crunch and well-seasoned these did taste better than normal fries, and that is just fact.

Curly fries

Warm chocolate chip cookie, vanilla malt ice cream, butterscotch sauce, macadamia brittle.

Not only does the set menu include a vast selection of dishes as well as the BBQ platter but you even get dessert. Seeing as there were three of us that meant two to share and after the amount of food we had already consumed that was plenty.

First up was the cookie, and it was quite a monster drizzled with a rich butterscotch sauce, topped with ice cream and generous sprinkling of macadamia brittle. Since I am not big on the whole cookie thing I found it way too sugary and buttery, it wasn’t under cooked but just felt unfinished. When eaten together with the smashing vanilla malt ice cream it was pleasant but my favourite part was the salted caramelesque sauce.

Warm chocolate chip cookie, vanilla malt ice cream, butterscotch sauce, macadamia brittle

Strawberry sundae, shortbread ice cream, strawberries, meringue, macadamia shortbread.

While cookies aren’t my thing meringue is so the strawberry sundae was a perfect dessert in my books. By using both fresh and freeze dried strawberries the dish had a depth to it that carried through each and every mouthful. Meringue and super cool shortbread ice cream worked like magic as did the actual shortbread. Quite a playful dessert and most importantly it was refreshing and the best thing to finish on.

Strawberry sundae, shortbread ice cream, strawberries, meringue, macadamia shortbread

Although we had come for the whole barbecue smokehouse thing we found it was all of the other savoury courses that outshone the meat platter by a good margin. Everything was there ready to work so well with the smoked meats but a lack of temperature and general dryness meant it was not able to go toe-to-toe with all the other offerings.

Papi Chulo Dining Room

That being said every other savoury dish we had was a knockout, a collection of tastes from not only the Americas but around the world really surprised us and it was these dishes that make me want to go back. I am also sure the BBQ platter can and will be better next time, but we will have to see if ‘Black Betty’ at the Oxford Tavern can take the crown.

Papi Chulo Dining Room

With a few hours to kill before dinner at Cho Cho San we needed somewhere to chill and seeing as we were in Manly we knew it had to be 4 Pines Brewery for a few local craft beers before heading back to Sydney Cove. After a number of Pale Ales and even some Hefeweizen on my part and a few ESB’s for Em it was time to head across the road and jump on the ferry for the trip back.

One of the best things about the ferry at this time in the afternoon is watching the sun go down as you head back to Circular Quay, it is quite a magnificent scene and something everyone needs to see for themselves. I ? Sydney.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Papi Chulo
22-23 Manly Wharf
Manly NSW 2095
(02) 9240 3000
Papi Chulo Website

4Fourteen

Back in 2011 we dined at The Four in Hand Dining Room and have always talked about checking out 4Fourteen. But we talk about a lot of restaurants and of course it just ended up on that never ending list of ours. When the New Yorkers were in town they’d flagged 4Fourteen as a place they’d like to visit. So all these years later we finally got to tick 4Fourteen off the list.

Iggy’s Bread with Butter ($2.50).

With Iggy’s bread on the menu I have to admit I was expecting a slice of Iggy’s unbeatable sourdough. I wasn’t expecting a bread roll and have to admit I was disappointed. Quite firm and dry the bread roll didn’t live up to Iggy’s sourdough standards. I probably should have saved it to mop up all the delicious juices from the mains but when bread lands on the table I jump straight in. Oh well, next time.

4Fourteen Bar

Ham Hock and Cheese Croquette, Mustard Crème Fraîche ($4.50 each).

Before we got into meat, meat and more meat we kicked things off with some ham and cheese croquettes that Marcos just couldn’t go past. They arrived smelling wonderful and cutely presented in an egg carton offcut. With their rectangular shape reminiscent of fish fingers I had to throw my expectations out the window. There was no fish here.

Ham and cheese certainly are a marriage made in heaven and the ham hock brought its wonderful smoky and robust flavour to the gooey melted cheese counterpart. A quenelle of mustard crème fraîche helped cut through the richness of the deep fried batons. A classic flavour combination yes, but they had nothing on those lamb croquettes we devoured at County Dining.

Ham Hock and Cheese Croquette, Mustard Crème Fraîche

Pork Belly, Pumpkin, Charred Onions, Prosciutto ($32.00).

Somehow the pork belly left the kitchen early. In a rather dimly lit restaurant it wasn’t easy to spot at first but as Dylan started snapping pics he realised something was amiss. Just as he did a waiter came flying back from the kitchen – clearly they knew the dish hadn’t meant to leave the kitchen when it did – there was still cling wrap encasing the pork. Delicately removed before we had a chance to dig in, no harm done.

Before us was a cylinder of glazed pork belly, brussels sprouts (one of my favourite vegetables – yes, even as a kid I loved them!), cubes of pumpkin and charred, caramelised onions. The veggies balanced the pork well and it was nice to see pork belly done in such a different way to the norm. With both the sprouts and onions charred there was a wonderful caramelisation going on that worked nicely with the salty prosciutto and buttery soft pork belly round.

Pork Belly, Pumpkin, Charred Onions, Prosciutto

Liquorice Beef Brisket, Pickled Veg, Fried Bread ($38.00 small).

Golden and glistening fried bread was the first thing I noticed as the brisket hit the table. But the aromas coming from the dish were beef, beef and more beef. My favourite protein. A thick slab of brisket slow cooked until it fell apart at the slightest nudge. Liquorice added to the beefiness in ways I’ll never understand but always appreciate, with that little hint of aniseed. Pickled veg sounded like a great addition to cut through the richness of the beef but as always I avoided anything pickled and let the others get their daily dose of veg while I devoured more glorious, tender beef brisket and crunchy, buttery, fried sourdough.

Liquorice Beef Brisket, Pickled Veg, Fried Bread

Slow Braised Whole Lamb Shoulder, Mustard and Herb Crust ($72.00).

But wait, there was more meat. Yes we possibly ordered a little heavy on the meat front but we couldn’t decide between the pork or beef and everyone wanted the lamb. Ahh the lamb. Slow braised lamb shoulder to be precise. Colin Fassnidge is most known for his skills with the almighty pig, but don’t overlook the lamb. Under a blanket of herbs the whole lamb shoulder was served in a rather large Dutch oven with a pair of tongs for dishing up.

Slow braised for six hours the lamb shoulder was melt in the mouth tender and easily the best protein of the night. It was lovely to have a simple braise provide so much satisfaction. All elements helped make this the wonderful dish that it was. Making sure you got some parsley and mint from the herb crust with the lamb ensured it was nice and bright, and the light hints of mustard helped it much the same, resulting in a well balanced and not too heavy dish.

Slow Braised Whole Lamb Shoulder, Mustard and Herb Crust

Charred Salt Crust Sweet Potato, Smoked Potato Mayonnaise ($12.00).

With all that meat we had to have some veggies. There’s nothing quite like root vegetables to go with hearty Irish fare and the charred salt crust sweet potato was a great side. Blackened and charred on the outside, buttery and soft on the inside. Quite a simple dish using nice technique, the salt crust drew moisture out to help crisp up the skin, resulting in a salty, crisp, addictive number taking sweet potato to the next level. Quite content without any condiments I left the mayonnaise to the others who tell me the sweet potato was even better with the smoky and creamy mayo (I’ll take their word for it).

Charred Salt Crust Sweet Potato, Smoked Potato Mayonnaise

Colcannon ($10.00).

And of all root vegetables there is nothing that comes close to the potato. From jacket potatoes to boiled spuds, potato salad to potato bake, and chips to mash, the humble potato is the most versatile veggie of them all and no one knows that more than the Irish. Colcannon is where it is at. Potatoes, cream, butter. Add some cavolo nero and spring onion, sprinkle with parsley. One mouthful of this took me straight back to The Four in Hand. Best.

Colcannon

White Chocolate Sandwich, Dulce de Leche ($16.00).

When it came time for dessert not everyone was keen. I on the other hand knew exactly what I wanted and greedily wanted it all to myself. An ice cream sandwich, who can go past that? Plus dulce de leche gets me every time. Sandwiched between two wafer-thin slithers of golden tuile was a slab of white chocolate ice cream, held in place with dulche de leche. The toffee-like shards of tuile were dark in colour and deep in flavour, rich dulche de leche brought sweetness to the ultra creamy white chocolate ice cream, and an extra splodge of dulce de leche made this a great dessert. Despite the sweet caramel this wasn’t an overly sweet dessert, though it was nice and indulgent all the same. And yes, I even shared

White Chocolate Sandwich, Dulce de Leche

At the end of the night I was satisfied but left a little underwhelmed. I’d heard so many great things about the place I was expecting it to knock my socks off. But with the likes of Nomad and MoVida opening up not far away there’s so much competition in Surry Hills these days I don’t think I’d rush back. Don’t get me wrong the food is enjoyable but I’d rather head to The Four in Hand for my next fix.

4Fourteen Entrance

4Fourteen
414 Bourke Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
(02) 9331 5399
4 Fourteen Website

Entrance

If there is one annoying character trait I find in regards to dining out it would be that I dislike bandwagon jumping for the latest restaurant opening. I actively avoid quite a lot of new places in the first weeks because of this. El Loco was one such place, there was so much blogger attention during the first few months I just didn’t want to go. Now if we fast-forward a few years (oops) it was time to make my maiden voyage.

Being quite the Mexican food lover I was torn between what to get. Should I load up on tacos or mix and match my way to a more comprehensive sampling? Knowing we had quite a big day of eating and drinking ahead of us I opted for a couple of tacos and a quesadilla, nothing too crazy but at least it had some diversity.

El Yucateco sauce range

Chorizo Quesadilla – Chorizo, jalapeño and cheese quesadilla with chipotle mayo ($6.00).

The decision of what to eat first once the food arrived was made easy with the quesadilla served hot and the tacos not so much. It was exactly as advertised, both the chorizo and jalapeños wrapped tightly in melted cheese and the tortilla browned and crisp. The cheese, while not offering a huge amount in the flavour department, really hit the spot on the texture front – oozy and melted keeping everything in place. Although the pickled jalapeños were likely not house made I was still a fan. But it was the paprika front and centre in the chorizo (house made or not) that made it all work and when charred – as this was – everything just popped. Without the mayo it was good, with the mayo even better as it added some moisture to combat the slight dryness.

Chorizo Quesadilla – Chorizo, jalapeño and cheese quesadilla with chipotle mayo

Al Pastor – spit roasted pork, pineapple salsa, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo ($5.00).

Somewhat bucking the trend of pulled pork the guys at El Loco do their pork a bit differently and to good effect. Cubes of fried spit roasted pork replaced juicy pulled pork and for me it went down a treat; pork is a wonderful ingredient and I love seeing it cooked in different ways. Just like the quesadilla it was the sauces that pulled this together and the added sweetness of the pineapple worked well to offset the spice of the pork to make quite a nice taco.

Al Pastor – spit roasted pork, pineapple salsa, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo

Carne Asada – lemongrass beef, queso fresca, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo ($5.00).

Beef is usually my go-to in all but Mexican (with pork holding that spot) and I was hoping for something amazing that could take pork down a notch or two. It was actually the queso fresco that I noticed first with its unique texture and a mild but distinctive taste but for me the beef was a little bit underwhelming when expecting Mexican flavours. I felt the lemongrass and spice blend made it more suited to a san choy bow with the overarching sweetness and lemongrass freshness than a taco. Not a bad little taco but not something I’d bother ordering again.

Carne Asada – lemongrass beef, queso fresca, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo

Camaron – prawn, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo ($5.00).

Lex’s taco choice was the prawn number, and it was definitely a wise decision. First and foremost the prawns were awesome, grilled and slightly charred but not overcooked at all. Both the Lime and coriander dominated in a good way as they matched the grilled prawns so well. While the prawns on their own were a tad dry it was the salsa verde and pico de gallo that brought moisture and wrapped this up into a super tasty taco. The char gave the prawns a great barbecued flavour to ensure they stayed front and centre in the flavour stakes, making this one to order again.

Camaron – prawn, cabbage, coriander, spring onions, salsa verde and pico de gallo

One thing worth mentioning is the tortillas, I am quite a fan of the El Loco version and they reminded me of the ones we have eaten in the US. White corn tortillas are my favourite of the bunch and it was quite satisfying eating them again. My one gripe is with the taco filling being so liquidy they fall apart easily and you tend to make quite a lot of mess. I would love it if they did what we saw in the US and use two tortillas per taco to ensure it all stays together and you are not left scrambling for napkins or making a trip to the washrooms to clean taco stains from your clothing.

Bar

Overall I enjoyed El Loco, perfectly casual with cheap and easy food that ticks all the boxes for the cuisine. Next time I need to try the mystery taco because, well, why not? It could be the most amazing taco of my life or something completey opposite, but that’s all the fun. Other than my gripes about the mess factor I feel there is nothing bad to say about the place, it’s almost as cheap as it gets, the food is tasty and the atmosphere is relaxed.

Kitchen

El Loco
64 Foveaux Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
(02) 9211 4945
El Loco Website

County Dining

We first met Heather Moore in her managerial role at Bacchus Restaurant in early 2012. Heather is one of those hospitality folk who just ‘get it’. She’s a welcoming host who ensures her guests are well looked after. When I heard Heather was opening her own restaurant with Chef Jamie Ryan I couldn’t wait to check it out.

Our good friends, Novocastrians Steve & Sally had dined at County Dining not long after it opened and confirmed what I had suspected, I needed to pay County Dining a visit. Unfortunately when Dylan headed to Newcastle to attend a beer festival the three of them decided to lunch at County Dining. I missed out again. I finally rectified the situation after a weekend in the Hunter Valley with the New Yorkers. Dylan and I popped on over to Morpeth (a 40 minute drive from Pokolbin / 2 hour drive from Sydney) for a long overdue catch up with Steve & Sally.

County Dining is located in the historic Arnotts Bakehouse building. Morpeth Sourdough occupies the ground floor along with County’s kitchen, while the dining room is located upstairs and half a dozen tables are situated on the balcony overlooking the main street of Morpeth. It’s a fantastic spot for a long lunch.

County Dining – Historic Arnott Bakehouse

roasted olives ($6.00).

When you’re all set for a long lunch and the first section of the menu reads ‘grazing’ there was no guessing what we’d order – one of everything. Juicy, fat and flavourful these little olive nuggets kicked things off with an oomph.

roasted olives

bone marrow on toast ($12.00 for 3).

The starter I was the least excited about was the bone marrow. I’ve had mixed experiences – at times I’ve adored it but at times I’ve also been greatly disappointed. Of course the starter I was the least excited about was the one that stole the show. Holy moly this is exactly how bone marrow should be served if you ask me. Less jelly-like in texture than most bone marrow I’ve tasted; here it was chopped up and served closer to a spread consistency. Suddenly I realised that one piece of toast smothered with heavenly bone marrow wasn’t enough. Next time I might just order this all to myself.

bone marrow on toast

pumpkin thyme arancini ($14.00 for 4).

The third grazing dish was a finger food classic, arancini balls. Four gorgeous, golden arancini nestled in an egg carton offcut. I loved the presentation and fortunately the flavours followed suit. Suitably crisp the arancini didn’t disappoint with a flavoursome pumpkin and thyme filling.

pumpkin thyme arancini

lamb neck croquettes ($15.00 for 4).

Another deep fried piece of goodness was the lamb neck croquette, also served in a mini egg carton. Just like the arancini before them the croquette had a crisp, golden crumb and a flavourful filling. I was rather pleased with the texture of the lamb which wasn’t minced as you might expect. A delicious savoury croquette that rounded out the starters nicely. Absolutely stunning.

lamb neck croquettes

mushroom bolognaise, white polenta, parmesan, balsamic ($22.00).

Now because we’d eaten a three course lunch at Muse Kitchen the day before, followed by a four course cook-up for dinner, and even then still polished off a huge fry-up for breakfast (can you sense the theme to this weekend away?), I wisely selected a ‘small plate’ for my main.

I’m not usually one to choose vegetarian mains but the mushroom bolognaise grabbed my attention. A medley of mushrooms with flavour in spades the ‘bolognaise’ kicked goals. A bed of delicately flavoured white polenta brought a nice texture to the dish and was just the right platform for the hearty mushroom. A little parmesan and balsamic to finish was all that was needed.

mushroom bolognaise, white polenta, parmesan, balsamic

pickled pork belly, croquette, root vegetables, cider buerre blanc ($34.00).

The boys were keen for pork belly but the word ‘pickled’ meant I was steering clear. Unfortunately Dylan was not in luck with his pork belly as the majority of the slab was fat. I was disappointed for him that there was so little meat. The pork itself was only mildly pickled but the root vegetables were full on – some of the most intense pickles Dylan’s had. He only wishes there was more meat to offset the pickles.

pickled pork belly, croquette, root vegetables, cider buerre blanc

polenta chips, tomato relish, parmesan (Complimentary).

Both white and yellow polenta made an appearance in my meal. Gigantic polenta chips were kindly sent out from the kitchen to accompany our mains. What I love about polenta chips is their crisp and crunchy outer and tender innards. Finished with a good grating of parmesan cheese and accompanied by a rather lovely house made tomato relish. Delightful.

polenta chips, tomato relish, parmesan

pommes puree, truffle oil, pangrattato (Complimentary).

Everyone loves mashed potato and the addition of truffle oil and pangrattato can only make things better. The mash felt a little overworked for our liking and the truffle oil a little on the light side leaving the potato outshone by the polenta chips.

pommes puree, truffle oil, pangrattato

leaves from our garden, salad cream (Complimentary).

Another complimentary side was a lovely little side salad made with leaves from County Dining’s garden. Purple kale made this salad stand out. Not your run-of-the-mill side salad leaf the kale brought great bite and of course a brilliant splash of colour.

leaves from our garden, salad cream

apple tarte tatin, butterscotch sauce, crème fraîche sorbet ($15.00).

Shortly into my main I was thinking there was no possible way I would be eating dessert. Ha! I don’t even know myself. After a short interval and calling up of my dessert stomach I was ready to go. I instantly decided I wanted the tarte tatin but spent a few moments weighing up my options… if I’d had the room I would have liked to have ordered one of everything.

As the desserts reached the table I was struck with the incredible aromas of baked apples, caramel and cinnamon. I was on to a good thing. Apple tarte tatin is a classic that warms my heart. This rendition was spot on with the balance between the buttery base and caramelised apples perfect. A scoop of zingy crème fraîche sorbet was a nice lighter alternative to a creamy vanilla ice cream. I’d definitely order this again.

apple tarte tatin, butterscotch sauce, crème fraîche sorbet

coconut panna cotta, pineapple shards, citrus curd ($15.00).

The panna cotta sounded like it would be right up Dylan’s alley – coconut, panna cotta, pineapple and citrus. It was however a little different to what we had both expected. Visually quite stunning the panna cotta in the centre of the plate was actually composed of two layers – a creamy coconut layer at the base and a lighter layer on top. The wafer thin pineapple shards, citrus curd and diced pineapple added a nice level of sweet tartness. It was the chocolate soil that seemed out of place to me. What I envisioned being quite a tropical dessert had this extra layer that quite simply could have been stripped away.

coconut panna cotta, pineapple shards, citrus curd

Sitting on the balcony, watching the world go by is a fantastic way to spend a lazy Saturday afternoon. County Dining is a great spot for lunch. Every single grazing plate blew me away, my mushroom dish was stellar and my apple tarte tatin was simply the icing on the cake. Dylan didn’t fare as well with his main or dessert but his previous experience with Steve & Sally was as great as my first experience and we will definitely be returning.

Lounge

County Dining
148 Swan Street
Morpeth NSW 2321
(02) 4934 4343
County Dining Website

Muse Kitchen

When Marcos & Missy made plans to visit from NYC we decided a trip to the Hunter was required. Our group hired a luxurious architect-designed house and left Sydney for the weekend. We decided it would be best to have lunch out and about during our day touring the wineries, and Muse Kitchen seemed the best fit for our group of 10 adults of varying appetites and a 10 month old.

Muse Kitchen, located in the courtyard of Keith Tulloch Winery, is Troy Rhoades-Brown’s more casual restaurant in the Hunter Valley, with Muse at Hungerford Hill Winery his fine diner. Troy sources produce as locally as possible, supporting those who are as passionate about produce as he is. The menu is seasonal and driven by what is available – it’s short and to the point. You’ll find half a dozen appetisers, a few entrees and a few mains to choose from (plus dessert and cheese of course).

The restaurant makes you feel like you’re in a friend’s country style kitchen. It’s warm and welcoming with wooden floorboards, stunning white washed dining tables and chairs and a huge clock on the wall. It’s shabby chic and I love it.

Menus

Organic Ciabatta served warm, caramelised onion, aged balsamic ($12.00).

A few serves of ciabatta were ordered for everyone to nibble on while the rest of our meal was being prepared. The chunky ciabatta was served warm, on a board with a mini copper pot of luscious caramelised onion and the usual dipping condiments of olive oil and an aged balsamic which Dylan felt was the biggest flavoured balsamic he’s ever had. Not your ordinary bread fare.

Organic Ciabatta served warm, caramelised onion, aged balsamic

Fraser Isle Spanner Crab Orecchiette Pasta, lemon, garlic, parsley ($22.00).

Most of our dining companions opted to order a main only. But for a few of us at the indulgent end of the table we were ordering entrees and mains while already sussing out the dessert menu! For once it was an easy choice for me, the crab orecchiette being right up my alley. A jumble of beautifully sweet spanner crab and silky, al dente orecchiette made for a delightful starter. Slithers of radish and a scattering of peas complemented the bountiful seafood dish nicely.

Fraser Isle Spanner Crab Orecchiette Pasta, lemon, garlic, parsley

Pan Fried North Queensland Prawns, Andrew Thomas verjuice butter, tarragon, fennel ($22.00).

Dylan chose prawns to begin, and I was quite pleased he did as I’d convinced him to go halves in our entrees. Magnificently cooked the king prawns were the hero of this dish, allowed to shine in all their sweet, juicy glory. Simply pan fried and doused in a gorgeous verjuice (from Andrew Thomas’ winery just down the road) butter sauce, with that unique zinginess only tarragon can bring. The only thing missing was more of that ciabatta to mop up all of the delicious juices.

Pan Fried North Queensland Prawns, Andrew Thomas verjuice butter, tarragon, fennel

Roasted Corn Fed Chicken Breast, quinoa, raisins, pumpkin, honey, jus ($36.00).

I absolutely adore chicken but find restaurants often don’t have it on their menus, favouring duck and other poultry instead. But there is something about chicken that I just love. This dish is a prime example why. Succulent chicken that tasted like real chicken. Crisp skin, buttery pumpkin puree, sweet raisins and nutty quinoa added varying textures and flavours, accentuating the stunning chicken. Marcos also had this dish and exclaimed it was the best chicken he’d ever eaten in his entire life.

Roasted Corn Fed Chicken Breast, quinoa, raisins, pumpkin, honey, jus

Roasted Rump and Braised Neck of Lamb, potato puree, horseradish ($38.00).

Dylan’s main was completely different to mine and gorgeous in its own right. The lamb had an incredible depth of flavour with both roasted rump and braised neck of lamb on the plate which juxtaposed each other immensely – the braised neck with its sheer intensity and the rump with its pure, lean offering. Shavings of horseradish were adored yet simply not enough to go head to head with the strong lamb. Both the greenery and mash were fitting in a dish where lamb was so dominant. A remarkable dish.

Roasted Rump and Braised Neck of Lamb, potato puree, horseradish

Caramelised Brussels Sprouts, marinated feta, mint, seeded mustard ($12.00).

Marcos has his eye on the brussels and I was never going to argue. I was that child who LOVED brussels. Yes, that child who ate each leaf one by one to savour them! Here they were caramelised and crisp, paired with creamy feta, a mild chilli sauce and a few fresh sprout and mint leaves. These would convert every single other child out there who hated brussels growing up!

Caramelised Brussels Sprouts, marinated feta, mint, seeded mustard

Young Mixed Leaves, white wine vinaigrette ($8.00).

Side salads are a must for Dylan and so it was the mixed leaves with a vinaigrette dressing made its way to our table. Not simply ‘young mixed leaves’ but with slices of pickles, radish and a scattering of pomegranate seeds to keep things interesting. Though high on Dylan’s ordering agenda let’s just say the brussels stole the show and the salad hardly got a look in.

Young Mixed Leaves, white wine vinaigrette

Chocolate, Banana, Caramelised Pecan, vanilla ice cream, puffed rice, date ($14.00).

When it came to desserts I just had to go for the banana, I’m still in my banana dessert obsession phase. But before I dug in I had a mouthful of Jason’s trifle. Oh my goodness the little doughnut was full of cinnamon sugar goodness. I had a little food envy on this one and I hadn’t even started mine.

Luckily my dessert was just as good. Banana and pecans are a classic combination and this was no exception. Caramelised pecans, ripe banana and puffed rice for texture. A sphere of chocolate hid creamy vanilla ice cream while hints of mint were a nice touch. A pleasant way to end a wonderful meal.

Chocolate, Banana, Caramelised Pecan, vanilla ice cream, puffed rice, date

Muse Kitchen is my kind of lunch destination. The setting is beautiful and the food incredibly tasty, well portioned and value for money. Plus of course you’re in the Hunter and it’s a rather stunning place in itself.

Muse Kitchen

Muse Kitchen
Keith Tulloch Winery
Corner Hermitage and Deasys Roads
Pokolbin NSW 2320
(02) 4998 7899
Muse Kitchen Website

Guillaume

If there was a more anticipated reopening in the Sydney restaurant scene than Guillaume Brahimi’s self-titled Guillaume I have not seen it. After 12 years at Bennelong the December 31st closure was quite a public affair but thankfully ‘only’ 8 months later the French inspired Modern Australian establishment was ready to reopen.

And open just in time for Em’s birthday it did. Our group of six secured a table two weeks after opening. As is the norm nobody even glanced at the à la carte menu, it was the degustation all round. It was quite pleasing to see the emphasis on the source of key produce noted on the menu. All that was left to decide on were drinks. Negronis and glasses of champagne started the evening off brilliantly and it was time to get the show on the road.

Negroni

Degustation – $175.00 per person / with matching wines $255.00 per person

• Yellowfin Tuna (Coffs Harbour, New South Wales), basil, soy, mustard seed
• Royale of Globe Artichoke (Werribee South, Victoria), truffle, mud crab, barigoule vinaigrette
• Marron (Donnybrook, Western Australia), pork cheek, broadbeans, cauliflower, sea spray
• Patagonian Toothfish (Glacier 51, Heard Island, Australian Antarctic), salsify, Jamón ibérico, endive, globe artichoke
• Truffle Risotto (Manjimup, Western Australia)
• Robbins Island Full Blood Wagyu (North Western tip of Tasmania), shimeji mushrooms, baby spinach, merlot sauce
• Blood Orange Sorbet (Griffith, New South Wales)
• Vanilla Bean (Madagascar), crème brûlée, green apple, doughnut

Amuse-bouche.

With the menu in front of us we could see some of the classics had made the cut but a lot less than we first thought. Ahead of the first dish a lovely little amuse appeared in two parts. Firstly a steamed Crystal Bay prawn wrapped in basil leaves and adorned with sterling caviar. Indeed there was that luxurious salty tinge of caviar but this was all about the prawn; bursting with juices and flavour it was a great way to start.

Not only did we have an amazing prawn there was a spanner crab, finger lime, coriander and avocado mousse to accompany it. With an instant vibrancy from coriander and popping finger lime followed by light, sweet spanner crab. The smooth and creamy avocado brought it together to form the perfect match that was simply stunning.

Amuse-bouche

Yellowfin Tuna (Coffs Harbour, New South Wales), basil, soy, mustard seed.

Probably the most well-known Guillaume at Bennelong dish to make the move to the new site was the yellowfin tuna. A dish that epitomises the food at Guillaume – purity and precision. Such a harmonious balance between the fresh sweet zest of basil, textural sweet meaty tuna and light vinaigrette with hints of mustard. Surprisingly even the lettuce had its place, adding freshness plus some extra crunch. It is easy to see why this dish remains on the menu after so many years.

Yellowfin Tuna (Coffs Harbour, New South Wales), basil, soy, mustard seed

Royale of Globe Artichoke (Werribee South, Victoria), truffle, mud crab, barigoule vinaigrette.

Another classic Guillaume at Bennelong dish is the royale of globe artichoke, but this time it had additional decadence of black truffles. As we expected the royale of globe artichoke was out of this world, an insanely smooth mousse; both creamy and fluffy yet dense at the same time. Although quite sharp the vinaigrette was never too dominant and worked well with the velvety mousse. Once more we were amazed by the incredible brunoise vegetables, but it was the truffle that truly pulled everything together and made this one of the stand-out dishes of the evening.

Royale of Globe Artichoke (Werribee South, Victoria), truffle, mud crab, barigoule vinaigrette

Scallop, Jerusalem artichoke, truffle, chicken jus.

Continuing on the truffle theme was a little something extra not on the menu. Swimming in a sea of incredibly silky chicken jus was a small mound of supple Jerusalem artichoke with a perfectly pan fried scallop, a disc of black truffle and a sprinkling of chives for good measure. This dish could do no wrong – there was not a single component I wouldn’t happily stuff myself silly with and everything went so well together – faultless is the best way I can put it.

Scallop, Jerusalem artichoke, truffle, chicken jus

Marron (Donnybrook, Western Australia), pork cheek, broadbeans, cauliflower, sea spray.

While a tad sad there weren’t more truffles to devour with the marron all can be forgiven with the inclusion of pork. It was a long time before I experienced a pairing of pork and seafood but when I did it was a revelation. This dish was no different. Texturally the pork cheek and marron tail were a complete match, yet the marron was sweet and had great bite while the pork was salty and ever so soft. Extra bursts of salt where added by the sea spray and the cauliflower purée brought a much loved pepperiness.

Marron (Donnybrook, Western Australia), pork cheek, broadbeans, cauliflower, sea spray

Patagonian Toothfish (Glacier 51, Heard Island, Australian Antarctic), salsify, Jamón ibérico, endive, globe artichoke.

Not having eaten Patagonian Toothfish previously I was quite curious about the fish I have heard of many times before by one of its trade names, Chilean Sea Bass. Grilled to utter perfection with a golden, crispy outer the white waxy flesh surprised with its smooth buttery texture and clean flavour. Jamón ibérico sealed the deal giving a salty richness that would otherwise be missing from the fish. My favourite touch was the Pedro Ximenez jus that worked equally well with the jamón as it did the toothfish.

Patagonian Toothfish (Glacier 51, Heard Island, Australian Antarctic), salsify, Jamón ibérico, endive, globe artichoke

Truffle Risotto (Manjimup, Western Australia).

Although I was saddened there was only a shaving of truffle on the scallop dish the luscious risotto made up for it. Wafting from afar the warm earthiness of the truffles encompassed the whole table and I was trying hard to not jump in as soon as it hit the table. Expecting only truffle in the risotto it was a pleasant surprise to see quite a generous pile of fresh truffle on top. Velvety and ever so creamy the risotto was superb. Hearty and truly something I would eat every night of the week, the fresh truffle only accentuated this, making this my number one risotto of all time.

Truffle Risotto (Manjimup, Western Australia)

Robbins Island Full Blood Wagyu (North Western tip of Tasmania), shimeji mushrooms, baby spinach, merlot sauce.

The way to my heart is with beef, and Full Blood Wagyu is pretty much the perfect way to get my attention. Red wine jus is a sauce I only order at restaurants I am confident will do it justice as I’ve had many bad renditions that have nearly scarred me for life. A very pleasant looking dish made even better by the addition of a large dollop of infamous Paris mash – the quintessential side for a dish of this calibre. Soft and delicate the Wagyu came apart with ease, buttery mushrooms and spinach worked wonders with it. Big and intense the merlot jus was teetering on being overpowering but when used sparingly it really did hit the spot.

Robbins Island Full Blood Wagyu (North Western tip of Tasmania), shimeji mushrooms, baby spinach, merlot sauce

Blood Orange Sorbet (Griffith, New South Wales).

With one amuse, six scripted courses and one additional surprise dish done and dusted it was clearly time for a palate cleanser, and boy was the blood orange sorbet just what the doctor ordered. Crisp and fresh with a fragrant sweetness but also bitter and tart as you get with Campari. It went down a treat and really set us up for the final dish of the night.

Blood Orange Sorbet (Griffith, New South Wales)

Vanilla Bean (Madagascar), crème brûlée, green apple, doughnut.

Upon first seeing the menu I was a little disappointed we wouldn’t be getting a soufflé but I have a soft spot for crème brûlée so I was able to cope. Split into three very distinct parts we had silky custard in the wonderfully set crème brûlée that was bursting with the pure flavour of vanilla; a tiny doughnut that was heavily crusted in cinnamon sugar, crispy on the outside and fluffy in the centre; and an incredibly soothing sorbet of green apple resting upon Granny Smith batons. It was all stunning but my favourite part was combining the custard and sorbet to get that zing you do from a Splice ice-cream.

Vanilla Bean (Madagascar), crème brûlée, green apple, doughnut

Of course no degustation is complete without coffee and petits fours and the selection that came to the table was quite comprehensive, although it did create some tension with everyone vying for their favourites. There was a lemon tart, pistachio macaron, opera cake, passionfruit jube, salted caramel, vanilla macaron, chocolate tart and blackcurrant jube.

Petits Fours

As it was Em’s birthday the jubes were all hers and the rest of us were left to fight over the remaining treats. Each and every one was well executed setting the bar quite high in the petits fours arena. For me it was the salted caramel that shone through as the winner and Lex definitely agreed.

Upstairs dining room

Full to the brim and with smiles on our faces we took stock of the evening and in my opinion this topped our experience at Guillaume at Bennelong with ease. Yes the dining room still had the occasional waft of fresh paint come along but that is the only bad thing I have to say about the space. It is fresh, vibrant and inviting and doesn’t suffer from feeling too formal or a place you cannot sit back and relax to enjoy your evening.

Happy Birthday Em!

Guillaume

Guillaume
92 Hargrave Street
Paddington NSW 2021
(02) 9302 5222
Guillaume Website

Manhattan Bridge

We didn’t go to New York with the intention of blogging (other than the Michelin starred restaurants that is). But when we thought about how much research we had done before we left and how many awesome places we discovered (most through recommendations) we decided we should write about them.

And so… a year after our encounter, here are our thoughts about a hell of a lot of the New York eats and drinks we experienced and some of our adventures in one of the world’s most amazing cities.

Most of the photos below are happy snaps that I took on my phone to Instagram so please excuse the poor quality.

We New York.

Co.

As soon as we landed in New York I was eager to hit the streets and suss out the neighbourhood. I was craving pizza. Fortunately our Airbnb host mentioned a number of local restaurants worth visiting and one of them happened to be a pizza place. That’s how we ended up at Co. (pronounced Company) in Chelsea. The place was packed and we were lucky to get a table. Margherita, Boscaiola and Meatball were polished off swiftly. A fantastic wood fired pizza, with a crisp, bubbly base and few toppings. The margherita was my favourite. Washed down with homemade ‘fountain soda’ (I wish we called soft drink ‘fountain soda’ in Australia!) and followed by a delightfully indulgent chocolate almond butter tart with bruleed marshmallow cream and cocoa twig.

Co. – Margherita Pizza

Co.
230 Ninth Avenue
New York NY 10001
United States ?
+1 212 243 1105
Co. Website

Sullivan Street Bakery

Breakfast on our first morning in NYC was at Co.’s next door neighbour, Sullivan Street Bakery (owned by Jim Lahey who also owns Co.) How was our first coffee in NYC? Not bad. Dylan’s thoughts on his large flat white however were less promising “it tastes like warm milk.” Breakfast on the other hand was a beautiful egg, prosciutto and basil roll. The bread itself had a thin crust and soft, chewy centre. We returned a few days later and were also pleased with the egg and prosciutto brioche.

Sullivan Street Bakery – Egg & Prosciutto Brioche Panino

Sullivan Street Bakery
236 Ninth Avenue
New York NY 10001
United States ?
+1 212 929 5900
Sullivan Street Bakery Website

Eleni’s New York

A walk down the high line took us to the Chelsea Markets. A building that was originally the National Biscuit Company factory (where the Oreo was created!) the markets house dozens of food stores including a bakery, doughnut store, fruit shop, fromagerie, wine store and even a kitchenware store. Eleni’s is a nut free (and kosher certified) bakery specialising in brightly coloured, absolutely exquisite cookies. But they also bake cupcakes. The red velvet was particularly good.

Eleni’s New York – Red Velvet Cupcake

Eleni’s New York
75 Ninth Avenue
New York NY 10001
United States
Eleni’s New York Website

Smorgasburg

Smorgasburg is imperative when you visit NYC. Aussie expat Marcos took us to Smorgasburg for lunch. He knew I would love it. He was right. Better than any food market I have ever been to in Australia, Smorgasburg has 100 vendors and is on every Saturday (there are also flea markets run by the same group at various locations). La Esquina tortas (outstanding), The Bolivian Llama Party passionfruit lemonade (carbonated on the spot and out of this world) and Dough donuts (toasted coconut blew my mind). Food heaven. There’s no other way of putting it.

Smorgasburg

Smorgasburg (Williamsburg)
East River State Park
90 Kent Avenue
(at North 7th Street)
Brooklyn NY 11211
United States
Smorgasburg Website

La Esquina

We may not have made it to one of the La Esquina outlets per se, but we did have a torta at Smorgasburg and tacos delivered direct to our hotel room. The chicken torta with its crusty baguette, nicely seasoned chicken schnitzel, spanish onion, tomato, avocado, lettuce, black bean spread and chipotle mayo was everything you want a sandwich to be; full of flavour, fresh, well balanced. Taco offerings were similar – fresh, light and flavoursome.

La Esquina – Chicken Torta

La Esquina
114 Kenmare Street
New York NY 10012
United States
La Esquina Website

The Bolivian Llama Party

I was drawn to The Bolivian Llama Party food stall at Smorgasburg because of its awesome name. I’d already settled on a La Esquina torta but was hunting down a drink. When I saw a dude carbonating drinks at the stand I knew what I had to have. Sweet passionfruit lemonade soda made right in front of my eyes. Real fruit and naturally sweetened. The perfect accompaniment to my Mexican sandwich.

The Bolivian Llama Party – Passionfruit Lemonade Soda

The Bolivian Llama Party
27 North 6th Street
Brooklyn NY 11211
United States
The Bolivian Llama Party on Facebook

Dough

I couldn’t leave Smorgasburg without a donut. I’d heard ALL about Dough donuts and my eyes were almost bulging out of my head when I spotted the donut stand from a mile away. Eeeeep how to decide on a flavour?! Plain for Dylan and toasted coconut for me. Like Krispy Kreme but a thousand times better. Fluffier, lighter, more flavoursome. Incredible. Smashed them in nanoseconds. Happiest girl in the world.

Dough – Toasted Coconut Donut

Dough
305 Franklin Avenue
Brooklyn NY 11238
United States
+1 347 533 7544
Dough on Facebook

Mable’s Smokehouse & Banquet Hall

The bride and groom to be (the people who brought us to NY in the first place) organised a few pre-wedding dinners for their Australian family and friends. One of the destinations was a carnivore’s delight. You all know I don’t like vinegar and have never been sure I’d ever like ribs because of the sauce factor. Luckily for me our hosts knew the perfect place for a southern BBQ feast. You order at the counter and food is brought out on red cafeteria style plastic trays. Platters of meat. Beef brisket (so so so good), pulled pork, sausages, ribs, candied yams (sweet potato with marshmallow!!), mac ‘n’ cheese and Wonder Bread, deliciously soft, sugary white sliced bread. I’ve finally found the perfect BBQ that is Lex friendly. Texan BBQ. I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Mable’s Smokehouse & Banquet Hall – DeLuxe Platter

Mable’s Smokehouse & Banquet Hall
44 Berry Street
Brooklyn NY 11211
United States
+1 718 218 6655
Mable’s Smokehouse & Banquet Hall Website

The Counting Room

A bar in Brooklyn with a sweet cocktail list and table service. It can get rather loud so not the place to be if you’re after conversation. Stylish, spacious, great cocktails.

The Counting Room

The Counting Room
44 Berry Street
Brooklyn NY 11211
United States
+1 718 599 1860
The Counting Room Website

Café Grumpy

In the search for good coffee we sought advice and recommendations from friends and every form of social media. A Twitter suggestion saw us head a few blocks down town to Café Grumpy. The cafe is quite small and the food offering limited to a pastry cabinet. The tomato and cheese focaccia was seasoned well with the perfect crispness and just the right amount of squidgyness every good focaccia should have. As for the coffee, it was the best we’d had to date in NYC.

Café Grumpy – Tomato Focaccia

Café Grumpy
224 West 20th Street
New York NY 10011
United States
+1 212 255 5511
Café Grumpy Website

Billy’s Bakery

Billy’s Bakery tempted me from the minute I set eyes on the store as I wandered down 9th Avenue. A picnic in Central Park was just the excuse I was looking for to buy cupcakes. Mini cupcakes tend to be a little dry and lacklustre but Billy’s mini red velvets weren’t bad at all.

Billy’s Bakery – Mini Red Velvet Cupcakes

Billy’s Bakery
184 9th Avenue
(between 21st and 22nd)
New York NY 10011
United States
+1 212 647 9956
Billy’s Bakery Website

Dylan’s Candy Bar

Dylan’s Candy Bar was a must during our New York adventures. First of all the store is called Dylan’s Candy Bar (little did I know it’s named after Dylan Lauren, daughter of Ralph Lauren). Second of all they stock PEZ and I love PEZ. The store is full of candy of all different colours, shapes and sizes. They’ve got personalised EVERYTHING (though nothing with Lex on it) and a whole range of Dylan’s Candy Bar merchandise. It isn’t cheap but it’s worth a visit.

Dylan’s Candy Bar

Dylan’s Candy Bar
1011 Third Avenue
New York NY 10021
+1 646 735 0078
Dylan’s Candy Bar Website

Starbucks

We had walked past many Starbucks during our time in New York (they’re literally everywhere you look) and decided we had to do it at least once. Our first Starbucks experience on American soil was less than pleasant. I still don’t understand filter coffee over ice. Second time around I opted for an espresso frappacino (much better) and Dylan did the smart thing and added milk to his filter iced coffee.

Starbucks – A drink for ‘Dilon’

Starbucks
Starbucks Website

Birreria

A friend had told me about a rooftop bar at Eataly where first you have to find the lift to be able to get to it. To be honest the lift isn’t all that tricky to find but once you do locate it and make your way up to the roof you’re in for a real treat. The first night we went to Birreria we couldn’t see much but we did feast on a wonderful meal of cured meats, an heirloom tomato salad and beer braised pork shoulder. But let’s be honest, the main reason to go to Birreria is the beer. In collaboration with a few other brewers Birreria brews a number of unfiltered, unpasteurised and naturally carbonated Cask Ales on site. They also have a number of Dog Fish Head (Dylan’s favourite American craft brewer) beers on tap. It goes without saying we returned a few times. During the day, with the retractable roof open, the views of the NYC skyline are pretty cool.

Birreria

Birreria
Eataly
200 Fifth Avenue
New York NY 10010
United States
+1 212 937 8910
Birreria Website

Cafeteria

Breakfast was the one meal I had the least amount of recommendations for. We came across Cafeteria on an Urbanspoon search and decided to check it out. Typical breakfast fair and typical milky American lattes. Service was smashing and I was quite impressed with my stack of lemon ricotta pancakes.

Cafeteria – Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

Cafeteria
119 7th Avenue
New York NY 10010
United States
+1 212 414 1717
Cafeteria Website

Shake Shack

It took us a few days to actually get to Shake Shack, but once we tasted their burgers there was no turning back. We feasted at Shake Shack another two times during our stay. They are without a doubt the best tasting fast food burger I’ve ever eaten. When we returned to Australia I decided to see how they’d compare with one of Australia’s best.

Shake Shack – ShackBurger – Cheeseburger topped with lettuce, tomato and ShackSauce

Nathan’s Famous

Not knowing anything about baseball we decided we should go see the Yankees play (I was seriously keen to see an ice hockey game but we were there in the off season). And no visit to Yankee Stadium is complete without a Nathan’s Famous hotdog. With a soft, sweet bun and nicely smoked, lean hot dog it was exactly what I expected of an American hot dog – delicious. Nathan’s Famous can actually be found all over the country (with the original hot dog stand having opened in 1916!)

Nathan’s Famous

Nathan’s Famous (Yankee Stadium)
Yankee Stadium
One East 161st Street
Bronx NY 10451
United States
Nathan’s Famous Website

Foragers

With a lunch reservation at three Michelin starred Le Bernardin we only wanted something small to get through the morning. Foragers was within walking distance of our apartment and considering it was pouring down outside we didn’t want to travel too far. After much confusion over coffees (don’t ever ask for a flat white in America!) we ended up with lattes and pastries. My chocolate croissant was crisp and flaky with a good amount of chocolate in the middle. The coffees on the other hand were typical American lattes… warm milk.

Foragers – Chocolate Croissant and Latte

Foragers (Chelsea)
233 8th Avenue
New York NY 10011
United States
+1 212 243 8888
Foragers Website

Le Bernardin

Le Bernardin was one of our three all out no holding back dining experiences in New York. An exceptional three Michelin starred restaurant focussing on seafood. You can read all about our feast here.

Le Bernardin – Scallop – Barely Cooked Scallop, Brown Butter Dashi

Le Bernardin
155 West 51st Street
New York NY 10019
United States
+1 212 554 1515
Le Bernardin Website

Playwright Celtic Pub

We scored tickets to The Book of Mormon and were looking for a place for a pre-show feed. But following an afternoon at the Museum of Modern Art we were fast running out of time. We stumbled across the Playwright Celtic Pub and so it was. A few drinks and a huge plate of buffalo wings were required. Just the scent of them was enough for me… too much vinegar. But the rest of the crew were scoffing them so I can only presume they were decent. If you want to suss out a typical Irish pub, but with an American touch, this is it.

Playwright Celtic Pub – Buffalo Wings with Blue Cheese Sauce

Playwright Celtic Pub
732 8th Avenue
New York NY 10036
United States
+1 212 354 8404
Playwright Celtic Pub Website

Dunkin’ Donuts

Having grown up seeing Dunkin’ Donuts all over the big screen I had to try one for myself. I didn’t expect much but I’ve got to say they were pretty damn good. Quite soft and fluffy with a reasonably good chocolate glaze. And sprinkles!! Devouring these late at night in the drizzling rain on our walk back to the apartment from the Rockefeller Centre was totally worth it.

Dunkin’ Donuts – Chocolate Frosted Donut with Sprinkles

Dunkin’ Donuts
30 Rockefeller Plaza
New York NY 10112
United States
+1 212 333 4412
Dunkin’ Donuts Website

McDonald’s

Yes, there had to be one visit to McDonald’s. And yes, I am including it in this blog post. Dylan and I probably eat McDonald’s twice a year but when spending a day at Woodbury Common Premium Outlets (in the middle of nowhere) the food court options are limited. Hence, this was to be our one American McDonald’s experience. I ordered a Big Mac (with no sauce, as usual) and Dylan ordered a Quarter Pounder. Other than Americans calling burgers “sandwiches” there really wasn’t any difference in flavour or texture. Yep, that fast food burger tastes the same on the other side of the world.

McDonald’s – Big Mac

McDonald’s
Woodbury Common Premium Outlets
501 Food Court
Central Valley NY 10917
United States
+1 845 928 2040
McDonald’s Website

Häagen-Dazs

Because we were all shopped out before the bus was due to take us back to Manhattan we decided ice cream was required. I don’t think I’ve really ever had Häagen-Dazs before but I was pleasantly surprised. A rich Belgian chocolate ice cream with a creamy consistency. Not overly sugary or fake as I find most mass produced ice creams.

Häagen-Dazs – Belgian Chocolate

Häagen-Dazs
Woodbury Common Premium Outlets
511 Food Court
Central Valley NY 10917
United States
+1 845 928 8419
Häagen-Dazs Website

momofuku ssäm bar

One whole pork butt, ten friends, an hour of demolition. Read more about our momofuku ssäm bar meal.

momofuku ssäm bar – bo ssäm

momofuku ssäm bar
207 2nd Avenue
(at 13th Street)
New York NY 10003
United States
momofuku ssäm bar Website

momofuku milk bar

Eeep! I was so excited to get my hands on momofuku milk bar cookies. And then on our last morning in New York when we had run out of cash we returned to buy supplies for friends back home. A gazillion cookies and crack pie were purchased. But I also had to get a cereal milk soft serve. Let me mention I hate soggy cereal. Whenever I eat cereal (which, admittedly is not often these days) I scoff the cereal as quickly as possibly to ensure I’m eating crunchy cereal and am not left with soggy bits and cereal infused milk. But as much as I hate soggy cereal I realised I’ve been missing out all these years. Cereal milk… turned into ice cream is out of this world. Don’t forget to add cornflakes for crunch.

momofuku milk bar – cereal milk soft serve

momofuku milk bar
251 East 13th Street
(corner of 13th Street and 2nd Avenue)
New York NY 10003
United States
+1 347 577 9504
momofuku milk bar Website

Bar Veloce

Out on the town one night we came across Bar Veloce, a wine bar with a solid list of Italian wines (and a few French ones thrown in for good measure). The waiters certainly know their wines and were more than happy to take the time to chat with us about our preferences and budget, and recommend a wine accordingly. We were impressed.

Bar Veloce

Bar Veloce
175 2nd Avenue
(between 11th and 12th Street)
New York NY 10003
United States
+1 212 260 3200
Bar Veloce Website

Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen

Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen was another bar we came across when bar hopping. The boys were happy with the beer options (they’ve got about two dozen beers on tap and just as many bottled) and the girls were of course happy with the cocktail menu. Beer also features throughout the food menu and I hear good things about their beer battered fish and chips.

Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen – Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA

Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen
87 2nd Avenue
New York NY 10003
United States
+1 646 606 2384
Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen Website

Sugar and Plumm

Catching up with a high school friend saw us venture to the Upper West Side for brunch. Woah the Upper West Side is so very different from Chelsea/West Village where we’d been staying. It’s primarily a residential area and far less chaotic than mid-town. Sugar and Plumm, ‘purveyors of yumm’, is a cafe and patisserie with a gift shop of tempting treats. Their buckwheat crêpes are light and flavourful.

Sugar and Plumm – buckwheat crêpe with spinach and mushroom

Sugar and Plumm
377 Amsterdam Avenue
New York NY 10024
United States
+1 212 787 8778
Sugar and Plumm Website

Eleven Madison Park

Eleven Madison Park was the one and only restaurant I really truly could not miss out on while in New York. Fortunately for me we scored a reservation. The result was the best dining experience of my life.

Eleven Madison Park – Carrot – Tartare with Rye Bread and Condiments

Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Avenue
New York NY 10010
United States
+1 212 889 0905
Eleven Madison Park Website

Marea

What do you do after lunch at Eleven Madison Park? Many would go home and lie down, most probably wouldn’t eat for the rest of the day. But I do things a little differently. When the boys took off for the bucks night I met up with the girls and we went off to Marea. Little did I think about how difficult it would be to consume a three course meal after EMP. Shrimp pasta and sea scallop dishes were both absolutely divine but sadly I couldn’t bring myself to eat my dessert. I’ve never been so full in my life – never not taken a single mouthful of a dish. Lucky for the other girls who devoured the extra dessert in next to no time. Deserving of its two Michelin stars and definitely deserved more stomach space than I afforded it.

Marea – Sea Scallops

Marea
240 Central Park South
New York NY 10021
United States
+1 212 582 5100
Marea Website

Barcade

I didn’t make it to Barcade myself however the guys who did tell me it is AWESOME. A place where it seems appearances don’t matter, a dodgy building with minimal thought about it. Instead all thought is put into what matters most, the content. Over 30 local craft beers and 50 classic arcade game machines to play, at the price of a quarter a game, this is gamers’ heaven.

Barcade

Barcade
388 Union Avenue
Brooklyn NY 11211
United States
+1 718 302 6464
Barcade Website

Levain Bakery

“Do you like cookies?” Was the question posed by a friend of a friend. Do I ever. My eyes lit up as I was told about Levain, a little bakery on the Upper West Side where the cookies are huge. 6 ounces of cookie (which is roughly 170grams). I made it my mission to make it to Levain. The hardest part was deciding what cookie to get. Not being much of a breakfast person, or a cookie fiend, Dylan wasn’t all that interested. But I convinced him he had to eat and so I chose a slice of Sour Cream Coffee Cake (which is impressively measured for slicing using the inch-thick blade of the knife) and an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie. The pound cake was dense and moist with a beautiful crumb. And the cookie, well the cookie was one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of eating.

Levain Bakery – Oatmeal Raisin Cookie

Levain Bakery
167 West 74th Street
New York NY 10023
United States
+1 212 874 6080
Levain Bakery Website

Stumptown Coffee

Stumptown Coffee is definitely one of the best coffee spots we came across in NYC. Though we had mixed results depending on who the barista was on the day, the worst coffee was still a thousand times better than most ‘warm milk’ coffees we experienced throughout our travels. The selection of pastries was also rather impressive and totally delectable.

Stumptown Coffee – Croissant and Strong Latte

Stumptown Coffee
18 West 29th Street
New York NY 10016
United States
+1 646 214 5749
Stumptown Coffee Website

2 Bros. Pizza

Lunch before an afternoon wedding. What to have? We decided to check out the $1 pizza place we’d spotted not far from our apartment. Though you may think we could be risking life and limb on a slice of $1 dodgy pizza before a wedding, with the queues this place had every time we passed by we weren’t concerned. Slices of margherita and pepperoni pizza were piping hot straight out of the oven and nicely balanced with the base, tomato and cheese ratio. Seconds were a must.

2 Bros. Pizza – Margherita Pizza

2 Bros. Pizza
542 9th Avenue
New York NY 10018
United States
+1 212 695 2642
2 Bros. Pizza Website

Artichoke Basille’s Pizza

Artichoke Basille’s Pizza is a pizza place we were keen to suss out. They’re not Chicago-style deep dish but they are deep nonetheless. We had to order the Artichoke Pizza – a deep deep deep base with cream sauce, artichoke hearts, spinach, mozzarella and pecorino. Simply irresistible. Their Staten Island Pie with meatballs and ricotta cheese is also an epic pizza. The good news is if you can’t finish them, both are delicious cold and also reheat well. Will definitely head back when we make it back to NYC.

Artichoke Basille’s Pizza – Artichoke Pizza

Artichoke Basille’s Pizza
114 10th Avenue
New York NY 10011
United States
+1 212 792 9200
Artichoke Basille’s Pizza Website

Bouchon Bakery

Thomas Keller is one of Dylan’s favourite chefs. Yet sadly when budgets were worked and reworked we couldn’t squeeze in a meal at Per Se. So to ensure we didn’t miss out altogether we popped into Mr Keller’s patisserie, Bouchon Bakery. Display after display of beautiful pastries were staring at me, tempting me. Through a process of elimination we settled on a Bouchon Oh Oh and Chocolate Eclair. Stunning and categorically divine.

Bouchon Bakery – Bouchon Oh Oh and Chocolate Eclair

Bouchon Bakery
1 Rockefeller Plaza
New York NY 10020
United States
+1 212 782 3890
Bouchon Bakery Website

Korilla BBQ

Food truck!!! It was pure luck that as we walked out of Birreria one day there just happened to be a food truck right in front of us. Korilla (rhymes with tortilla not gorilla) BBQ is a Korean and Mexican fusion food truck. Having just downed a large quantity of beer and cider we decided to share… step one choose your ‘vehicle’ (red leaf lettuce salad bowl, wrap, chosun rice bowl), step two choose your rice (sticky rice or bacon kimchi fried rice), step three choose a protein (ribeye, spicy pork, chicken, tofu), step four choose your cheese and pico (monterray jack cheese, salsa fresca), step five choose from the kimchi pickle bar (red kimchi, cukes, daikon, slaw), step six add sauce (korilla sauce, korean bbq sauce, kimchi juice, korean hot sauce, k’illa) and step seven add some vegies (squash, bean sprouts, cukes, carrots). The result? The best freakin fusion buritto ever.

Korilla BBQ – Dylan and the Korilla BBQ truck

Korilla BBQ
Location Varies
New York NY
United States
Korean BBQ Website

Economy Candy

The groom knows I collect PEZ and told me about this awesome candy store that has been around sine 1937. And so it was that Dylan and I ended up at Economy Candy. It may be a smallish store but they make the most of the space they have with candy stacked from floor to ceiling. They stock everything from Wonka gobstoppers, runts, jujubes and nerds to candy bars such as Oh Henry, Tootsie Roll, Big Hunk, Butterfinger and Twizzler through to m&m’s in every colour of the rainbow. Plus of course they have a pretty sweet selection of PEZ. I may have gone a little crazy and spent a bucket load of money here (I did buy over a kilo of m&m’s… there were 21 colours and I wanted some of each) but I was a very happy (fat) kid in a candy store.

Economy Candy

Economy Candy
108 Rivington Street
New York NY 10002
United States
+1 212 254 1531
Economy Candy Website

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita was recommended to me by a handful of people. Tacombi started selling tacos out of a converted VW Kombi, but the Kombi is now permanently parked in a converted garage in Nolita where the masses flock for tacos and cocktails. Each taco comes with two soft tortillas which enabled Dylan and I to cheat and subdivide the filling onto a tortilla each and try twice as many flavours. Barbacoa, pork belly, crispy fish and pollo con mole were all superb. But what also impressed was the guacamole con totopos. Not just ordinary corn chips, the totopos are made in house and are incredibly flavoursome and crunchy.

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita
267 Elizabeth Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 917 727 0179
Tacombi at Fonda Nolita Website

Mother’s Ruin

All are welcome at Mother’s Ruin, a small bar with no attitude. With a mixed crowd, a bar tender dressed as a pirate while another (male) sported a coconut bikini, it’s a bustling bar. Take your pick and sit at the bar or at one of the spots along the counter that runs the length of the wall. Reasonably priced drinks and a short bar food menu – while I can’t vouch for the food everything that we saw (and smelt) coming out of the kitchen sure looked the goods.

Mother’s Ruin

Mother’s Ruin
18 Spring Street
New York NY 10012
United States
Mother’s Ruin Website

The Ten Bells

The Ten Bells was a recommendation from Traci of Woollahra’s Wine Library. Named after a pub in London where Jack the Ripper was said to have met his victims, The Ten Bells is a U-shaped wine bar serving oysters, tapas, charcuterie and cheese to go alongside all the wine. What we loved about The Ten Bells was the lack of snobbery and the pure passion for wine. They’ll chat with you as much or as little as you want about wine.

The Ten Bells

The Ten Bells
247 Broome Street
New York NY 10002
United States
+1 212 228 4450
The Ten Bells Website

Russ & Daughters

Joel Russ emigrated from Eastern Europe to America in 1905. In 1914 he opened J Russ International Appetizers which moved to its current location in 1920. In 1933 he renamed the store Russ & Daughters when his three daughters became partners in the business. They sell smoked fish, caviar and speciality foods and have been doing so since inception. A smoked salmon bagel was high on my agenda. Only a few minutes walk from our hotel in Nolita we ended up at Russ & Daughters for breakfast one morning. We kept things fairly simple with a poppy seed bagel, schmear of plain cream cheese (there are about nine different choices), smoked salmon, and capers. Without a doubt one of the best smoked salmon bagels. A must stop when you’re in New York.

Russ & Daughters – Smoked Salmon Poppy Seed Bagel with Cream Cheese & Capers

Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston Street
New York NY 10002
United States
+1 212 475 4880
Russ & Daughters Website

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop

Big Gay Ice Cream. Trust me, this place is an essential dessert destination when you’re in New York. The food truck has been roaming the streets since 2009 with stores popping up in the East Village in 2011 and then the West Village in 2012. It was the East Village store we’d made our way to after some locals told us we really had to do it. After a quick chat with the staff Dylan and I both ordered the Salty Pimp. A combination of vanilla soft serve that’s pumped full of thick dulce de leche, sprinkled with sea salt and dipped in chocolate. What makes it so good? The sum is greater than its parts. It’s sweet, salty, creamy and crunchy all in one and is quite frankly the best soft serve in the world.

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop
125 East 7th Street
New York NY 10009
United States
+1 212 533 9333
Big Gay Ice Cream Shop

wd~50

The final Michelin starred restaurant dining experience of our New York trip was to be Wylie Dufesne’s wd~50. It was an incredible evening of molecular gastronomy.

wd~50

wd~50
50 Clinton Street
New York NY 10002
United States
+1 212 477 2900
wd~50 Website

Clinton St. Baking Company

Most of our meals were based on recommendations. Clinton St. Baking Company was a recommendation from friends of the groom’s. They’d sent us to Big Gay Ice Cream so we knew we could trust their recommendations. The only thing they’d warned us about was the epically long wait. We were fortunate to be there mid-week so only had to wait about 20 minutes for a table. I had fried chicken and waffles on my wish list but soon discovered they’re on the lunch time menu. So while Dylan opted for a savoury brekkie of Huevos Rancheros I went for something sweet. The stack of pancakes were light and fluffy, topped with fresh banana, walnuts for crunch and a superb warm maple butter sauce.

Clinton St. Baking Company – Pancakes with Warm Maple Butter, Banana & Walnut

Clinton St. Baking Company
4 Clinton Street
New York NY 10002
United States
+1 646 602 6263
Clinton St. Baking Company Website

Minetta Tavern

Dating back to 1937 Minetta Tavern is said to be a cross between a Parisian steakhouse and a classic New York City tavern. They do a mean burger. Dylan put their Black Label Burger head to head with one of Sydney’s best. You can read more here.

Minetta Tavern – Black Label Burger – selection of prime dry-aged beef cuts with caramelized onions and pommes frites

Minetta Tavern
113 MacDougal Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 475 3850
Minetta Tavern Website

Rice To Riches

One of the things I love most about New York is that restaurants, cafes and food outlets in general don’t try to be everything to everyone. Take Rice To Riches for example, all they sell is rice pudding. Yep, that’s right, a store dedicated to rice pudding – over 20 flavours of rice pudding! Both the ‘Fluent In French Toast’ and ‘Cinnamon Sling’ got our tick of approval. And with signs in the store exclaiming ‘Dieting Optional’ and ‘No Skinny Bitches’ what’s not to love?!

Rice To Riches – Fluent In French Toast and Cinnamon Sling

Rice To Riches
37 Spring Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 274 0008
Rice To Riches Website

230 Fifth

230 Fifth is New York’s largest roof top bar. The space may be large but it doesn’t feel overly big with palm trees, planter boxes and tables and chairs breaking the space up nicely. The bar attracts a mixed crowd but is not overly pretentious. With great views of the city skyline, music pumping and cocktails priced around the $15 mark it makes for a fun afternoon.

230 Fifth – The view

230 Fifth
230 5th Avenue
New York NY 10001
United States
+1 212 725 4300
230 Fifth Website

Fig & Olive

Catching up with a girlfriend from high school she booked dinner at one of her favourites. Fig & Olive is about “passion for the best olive oils, flavors and cuisine from the Riviera & Coastal regions of the South of France, Italy and Spain.” The restaurant in the Meatpacking District is a beautiful space and the food doesn’t miss a beat. The selection of crostini we shared were scrumptious and both the ravioli and sea scallop dishes thoroughly enjoyable.

Fig & Olive – Sea Scallops

Fig & Olive
420 West 13th Street
New York NY 10014
United States
+1 212 924 1200
Fig & Olive Website

Le Bain

Following dinner at Fig & Olive my friend Sarah took us to Le Bain. Another roof top bar but one that is rather different to 230 Fifth. With astroturf, a spa and disco ball Le Bain is a little more ‘look at me’ than the chic 230 Fifth. But having said that it has magnificent views of Manhattan. The only shame was the food inspectors had been through just before our arrival and as they are super strict in New York and there was a question over one small thing (I believe it was the pre-cut fruit for cocktails sitting on the bench) they were shut down for the evening, only able to serve ‘pre-mixed’ drinks. I’ll have to head back to try the crepes from their crêperie another time.

Le Bain – The view

Le Bain
The Standard
848 Washington Street
New York NY 10014
United States
+1 212 645 4646
Le Bain Website

Brass Monkey

Brass Monkey is a pub in the Meatpacking District with a long list of beers (both bottled and on tap). There’s a rather large beer garden on the roof which is the perfect place to while away an evening… that is until around a gazillion university students celebrating the end of exams rock up. It was here I had my first lobster roll. And while it’s an absolutely terrible photo the roll was awesome. Super soft bun lathered in butter and piled high with juicy, sweet lobster and crunchy celery. And a side of potato chips (crisps) may just be my new favourite thing.

Brass Monkey – Lobster Roll

Brass Monkey
55 Little West 12th Street
New York NY 10014
United States
+1 212 675 6686
Brass Monkey Website

Café Habana

We felt we hadn’t had enough Mexican during our stay so we decided one of our last brekkies had to be at Cafe Habana. An old-school diner Cafe Habana has around a dozen things on the breakfast menu, all of which sound good. My Huevos con Chorizo may not look like much but this generous plate of scrambled eggs with spicy Mexican sausage and black beans was a simple, hearty and totally satisfying breakfast. And that gigantic portion will only set you back US$7.50!

Café Habana – Huevos con Chorizo

Café Habana
17 Prince Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 625 2001
Café Habana Website

Parm

Who doesn’t like chicken parmigiana? When a friend told me about Parm, a 1950s inspired diner in Nolita, I just knew I had to suss it out. The menu is short and to the point. I knew exactly what I wanted. Chicken parm. Succulent chicken in a gorgeous crumb, sweet tomato, fresh basil leaves and stringy mozzarella. Yes, this is what a good sandwich is all about. This is Italian-American food at its best. I’ve also heard very good things about their sister restaurant next door, Torrisi Italian Specialities but we’d run out of time on this trip.

Parm – Chicken Parm Roll

Parm
248 Mulberry Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 993 7189
Parm Website

taïm

I can’t remember who recommended taïm to me. But to whoever it was, thank you. taïm is a falafel and smoothie bar that was opened by homesick Israeli husband and wife team Chef Einat Admony and Stefan Nafziger in 2005. They sell, you guessed it, falafel. Choose from sandwiches, platters or salads. Pitas stuffed with freshly fried falafel (here with ‘green’ falafel – the traditional parsley, coriander and mint), hummus, Israeli salad, pickled cabbage and tahini. This smashed any falafel I’ve had in Australia out of the ballpark. Fresh, light, full of flavour. Even Dylan was impressed.

taïm – Falafel Sandwich

taïm
45 Spring Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 219 0600
taïm Website

Lombardi’s Pizza

Our final night in New York. What to eat? We couldn’t decide between pizza or Mexican. The boutique hotel we stayed in (the absolutely incredible The Nolitan) didn’t have room service, but they did have the option to order food from nearby restaurants and have it delivered. Pizza AND Mexican, ok! You may be wondering whether New York’s oldest pizzeria has still got it. I can’t vouch for what the pizza was like back in 1897 when they opened, but I can tell you these days the pizza is simply beautiful. Fresh tomatoes, gorgeous mozzarella and a nicely charred crust. The original and no doubt one of the best.

Lombardi’s Pizza – Margherita Pizza

Lombardi’s Pizza
32 Spring Street
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 941 7994
Lombardi’s Pizza Website

Ruby’s Cafe

Funnily enough for our last breakfast in New York we ended up at an Australian cafe. We were in search of good coffee so we decided to suss out what the Aussies are up to in New York. And of course it was one of the best coffees we’d had in the two weeks we ate our way around the city. Their rendition of avo on toast also doesn’t go astray.

Ruby’s Cafe – Avo Toast

Ruby’s Cafe
219 Mulberry Street
(between Spring and Prince St)
New York NY 10012
United States
+1 212 925 5755
Ruby’s Cafe Website

Gramercy Terrace

I will admit I was nervous about our last meal in New York. I hadn’t been able to tick off half the places I wanted to go. And the last meal was out of our hands. We were meeting the bride and groom for one last catch up but we didn’t know where we were going. Lucky for us they know their city and knew where to take us. Gramercy Terrace was not on my radar but that’s the beauty of dining with locals. And what would a last meal in New York be without a burger (Gramercy Terrace is run by the Union Square Hospitality Group after all… the same group who own Shake Shack). The North American Bison (Buffalo) Burger was my kind of burger. It comes with the melted cheese oozing over the pattie, and the tomato, lettuce and all other toppings are served on the side. Add as much or as little of each as you like. A rather fitting meal for our last in New York.

Gramercy Terrace – North American Bison Burger

Gramercy Terrace
Gramercy Park Hotel
2 Lexington Avenue
New York NY 10010
United States
+1 212 920 3300
Gramercy Terrace Website

And there you have it. A little snippet of our two week holiday in the world’s most incredible city. Our friend Marcos always says New York is the world’s best city and Australia the best country. After only two weeks in New York I have to agree with him.

Hartsyard

Hartsyard is Gregory Llewellyn and Naomi Hart’s ‘urban homestead’. A restaurant with a focus on seasonal produce and nose-to-tail cooking with a focus on Southern American cuisine. Think fried chicken, biscuits (similar to British scones) and crazy desserts. It’s a little bit American and a little bit inner-west.

Hartsyard is one of those places I’d heard A LOT about. I’d read multiple critic and blogger reviews and been teased with sumptuous looking Instagram photos for far too long. After lunch at Mary’s and nibbles at The Stinking Bishops we set off for dinner at Hartsyard to see what all the fuss was about.

School Prawn Popcorn, espelette pepper, sour cream, lemon ($16.00).

Popcorn was unexpectedly… popcorn. Ok that might seem obvious now but ‘popcorn’ has appeared on so many menus in recent years and has only been tiny nuggets of food, not the real deal. So I was sort of expecting battered school prawns in some crazy form. Nevertheless the guys at Hartsyard surprised me. The popcorn complemented the school prawns well, the saltiness offset by a squeeze of lemon and dip in sour cream. While it wasn’t what I was expecting it was a pretty cool dish. I was impressed.

School Prawn Popcorn, espelette pepper, sour cream, lemon

Crispy Pig Tails, buttermilk dressing, pickles, hot sauce ($21.00).

Next up was the crispy pig tails. Served as two discs with a crisp outer and juicy porky centre, this dish was a little on the salty side and didn’t quite hit the spot. Accompaniments of buttermilk dressing, pickles and ‘hot sauce’ – which sadly wasn’t hot at all – paired well but couldn’t compensate the overall saltiness for me.

Crispy Pig Tails, buttermilk dressing, pickles, hot sauce

Fried Chicken, buttermilk biscuit, low country sausage gravy ($29.00).

Having asked our waiter how much to order we’d culled a main dish and were down to two – fried chicken and short rib. I’d heard great things about Hartsyard’s fried chicken and it was one of the dishes I’d travelled to Newtown for. Sadly, I am sorry to say, the chicken didn’t live up to the ‘best fried chicken’ hype. Yes it had a lovely golden batter which shattered at the bite, and the meat was succulent but the sausage gravy did nothing for me and I honestly felt it missed the mark (or maybe I missed the point).

Fried Chicken, buttermilk biscuit, low country sausage gravy

Short Rib, brussel sprouts, king oyster mushroom, onion, chilli ($35.00).

The final main was beef short rib. I’ll be honest and admit we were all starting to feel full by this stage. We’d polished off burgers, fries and beers at Mary’s followed by cheese and wine at The Stinking Bishops. Another main was set to push us to our limits.

The beef short rib smelt amazing. I knew my eyes were bigger than my tummy but those delicious wafts of beef had me ready for more. A full bodied sauce made with molasses, Tabasco and Worchestershire. It was a tasty tasty sauce and the meat was nice and tender. The tendon brought a wonderful crunch and I liked the addition of the cauliflower, cheddar and steak sauce. But we couldn’t finish it. There were precious desserts to make room for.

Short Rib, brussel sprouts, king oyster mushroom, onion, chilli

Mint Slice, chocolate aero, mint chocolate-chip ice-cream, blueberry ($18.00).

Call us crazy but after all that food we were still ready to order dessert. After all, other than the fried chicken Hartsyard’s desserts were the other thing on my hit list. The pie of the day had sold out so we opted to share the mint slice and a HY Soft Serve.

The mint slice was visually stunning. A combination of blueberry powder, blueberries, mint ice cream, baby mint leaves, and various forms of chocolate – crumb, delice, cream, ganache. Beautifully plated and wonderfully balanced. A nice nod to one of Australia’s favourite biscuits. Absolutely gorgeous.

Mint Slice, chocolate aero, mint chocolate-chip ice-cream, blueberry

HY Soft Serve – Violet Crumble – Honeycomb soft serve, honeycomb chunks, dark chocolate dip, crystallised violets and salted chocolate fudge ($14.00).

Countless HY Soft Serves have appeared in my Instagram feed over the months (years?!) and I was quite pleased the flavour combo of the week was Violet Crumble. Another little nod to an Aussie favourite. An old school wafer ice-cream cone filled with honeycomb soft serve, honeycomb chunks poking out all over the shop, dunked in rich dark chocolate and finished with pretty crystallised violets and a drizzle of salted chocolate fudge. Epic and totally worth it.

HY Soft Serve – Violet Crumble – Honeycomb soft serve, honeycomb chunks, dark chocolate dip, crystallised violets and salted chocolate fudge

Overall I found Hartsyard a little hit and miss. Perhaps my expectations of the fried chicken were far too high. But those school prawns and desserts were smashing. I love their philosophy and am keen to head back and try more of their menu… hopefully on a less full stomach next time.

Hartsyard
33 Enmore Road
Newtown NSW 2042
(02) 8068 1473
Hartsyard Website