The Passionate Foodie

Rant: Wine & Beer, It's Not Just About Flavor

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 24 Aug 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Why do you enjoy wine and beer? And please be honest about your reasons.

When you read winer and beer reviews, when you speak to the staff at your local wine and beer shop, when you speak to family and friends, you'll generally learn about the various flavors in those beverages. Some will even rhapsodize with a lengthy litany of aromas and flavors they discern in these beverages, sometimes using descriptors which seem to make little sense to the casual drinker.

In all those descriptions though, one important element is usually omitted, possibly a legacy of our puritanical heritage. It's the dark secret of beer and wine consumption, that aspect we dare not speak aloud. However, it's a secret most of us share, and it makes little sense to conceal it. We shouldn't deny the reality behind our drinking.

Be honest. You can do it. Sure, you probably enjoy the aromas and flavors of your wine or beer, but we all know that you also enjoy wine and beer because it contains alcohol. You like that apparent sense of euphoria provided by alcohol. You revel in how alcohol makes you feel, altering your perception. Frankly, you probably wouldn't be drinking beer and wine if it didn't include alcohol. When is the last time you drank a non-alcoholic beer or wine? How often do you consume non-alcoholic beer or wine?

In the U.S., non-alcoholic wine and beer has become more popular but it still only accounts for less than 0.5% of overall alcohol retail sales. Some may drink non-alcoholic beverages because they believe it's healthier for them. However, I've heard plenty of complaints about the taste of non-alcoholic wine.

Maybe we should talk more about our enjoyment of alcohol in wine and beer, to stop hiding our reason in the shadows. It's an important element of what we drink so there's no need to deny it. It probably doesn't seem like proper etiquette to discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol. It seems more refined to discuss the various aromas and tastes rather than explore how the alcohol affected us. If we discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol, we might be perceived by others as having a problem.

Those who actually discuss such effects, like Anthony Bourdain, are usually seen as rebels and bad boys. However, as so many people actually enjoy the effects of alcohol, it should be the norm to openly discuss it. It shouldn't be perceived as bad. So step up and admit the truth, that you drink wine and beer, in part, because you like the effects of alcohol. It certainly isn't the only reason we enjoy these beverages, but it plays a significant factor. And maybe by discussing it, we can better avoid problems with the abuse of alcohol.

A History of Boston Jews, Kosher Restaurants, and Chinese Food

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 18 Aug 2026 16:38:30 +0000

It's a strong tradition, some even might say a sacred tradition, for Jews to enjoy Chinese food on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The connection of Jews to Chinese food extends back over 100 years, possibly even to the late 19th century. I want to explore some of the history of the connections of Boston's Jewish population, Kosher restaurants, Chinatown and Chinese cuisine.

A small number of Jews have lived in the Boston area since at least since the 18th century, but it wasn't until around 1880 that much more significant Jewish immigration to Boston began. Many thousands moved to the North End, especially around Salem Street, but in the 1890s, a number also moved to the area of Chinatown.

In comparison, Jewish immigration to New York City started much earlier, establishing a strong Jewish community. For example, the Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), November 19, 1867, noted there were about 40 Jewish restaurants in New York City. At that time, there weren't any Jewish restaurants in Boston, and wouldn't be for over twenty years.

The first Jewish restaurant in Boston wouldn't open until 1889. The Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), October 31, 1889, reported that a new Kosher restaurant “on an extensive scale” had just opened in Boston, “where the meat has been killed according to the law of Moses.” The name and location of the restaurant was not provided in the article. However, it seems likely that it was located in the North End, where most of the Jewish population in Boston was based.

It seems likely that five years later, this same restaurant was mentioned again, with a bit more detail, although the name of the restaurant wasn't provided. The Boston Globe (MA), January 7, 1894, stated, "The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome guests, the price of dinner being 40 cents." The 40-cent dinner consists of soup, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are 'everyday people.' There one might ask for 'noodle soup' and be understood by the pretty waiter, but not by the ordinary American. The new customer might receive a cup of tea or coffee when it is called for, but the everyday patron will have his in a cup."

By the mid-1890s, a number of Jews began settling or working on Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 28, 1896, printed an article that was subtitled, “Harrison Av Home of Many Jewish Merchants” Salem Street, in the North End, had a new rival for being the primary area for Jewish merchants. The article continued, "Harrison av, whose name suggests the word ‘Chinatown,’ is now, and has been for several years, offering extra inducements to purchasers of property for persons desiring to form a new settlement.” It was also noted, "This district had no Jewish families a few years ago. Now they are in full control...There are barber shops, butcher establishments, Jewish restaurants, furniture, new and second hand. Everything needed to successfully start housekeeping is for sale on a very small space of ground.” So, Jewish restaurants now existed in Chinatown.

The Boston Globe, September 5, 1896, mentioned that Salem Street, Lowell Street, and Harrison Avenue were all places where Kosher meat could be obtained.

Did the Jews of Harrison Avenue patronize the Chinese restaurants of that area? It's difficult to know for sure, but definitely seems possible. Much depends on how strongly the Jew wanted to eat kosher and whether they saw Chinese restaurants as acceptable under their dietary laws. At the very least, some Jews might have dined at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day, especially considering most other restaurants were closed.

As I mentioned in another article, Chinatown's restaurants on Christmas in 1897 were relatively empty. However, the Boston Globe, December 26, 1898, reported, “Down in Chinatown Christmas was observed in the ‘same old way.’ The Chinamen simply regard it as a pretty good time for business, and they are not so far out of the way, judging from last evening, for every restaurant in Chinatown was crowded by white folks.”

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that some of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options. If so, then the Jewish tradition in Boston of eating Chinese on Christmas extends back about 128 years!

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From 1900-1920, a number of Jewish Kosher restaurants would open in Chinatown, including one of the longest lasting, Prime Restaurant.

The Standard-Times, November 5, 1900, reported that Benjamin Holshanetsky, a Jewish restaurant keeper, had been charged with keeping liquor with intent to unlawfully sell the same. Police raided his searched his restaurant, with a warrant, and found 3 pint bottles of lager, a half pint of brandy, a bottle of cherries and rum, a small quantity of light wine, and several empty bottles, Benjamin claimed it was only for his family, but he was found guilty and fined $50.

The Boston Globe, May 18, 1901, published an ad, “Board and rooms for the summer season, everything first-class, salt water bathing, boating, fishing, etc; engage early. Mrs. Stone’s Kosher restaurant, 174 Chamber st, Boston.”

The Boston Globe, August 7, 1905, briefly noted that the Jewish section of Salem Street had a number of Jewish restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, March 3, 1906, posted this ad for Fewes Kosher Restaurant, located on 78 Kingston Street.

The Jewish Advocate, October 8, 1909, had this advertisement for Guterman's Restaurant, alleging it was "The Oldest and Best Kosher Restaurant in Boston." It was located at 94 Essex Street, which would have placed it on the Chinatown border. However, I haven't been able to find any additional information about this restaurant, such as the date they were established. It's thus can't confirm that it was the "oldest" Kosher restaurant in the city.

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The Jewish Advocate, October 28, 1920, provided maybe the first advertisement for the opening of Prime Restaurant, a new Kosher spot located in Chinatown, on 155 Harrison Avenue. The ad stated it was “where a real god meal will be served at all times.”

Prime Restaurant Co., was organized on September 17, 1920 and incorporated the next day. At this time, the area was a hub for the garment industry, which had strong Jewish involvement and investment. So, having a Kosher restaurant nearby was a benefit to many. Prime Restaurant would last for over 40 years!

The Jewish Advocate, September 21, 1922, published another ad for Prime, noting it was a Kosher Restaurant and Delicatessen, and "Meals Served at All Hours."

The Jewish Advocate, March 18, 1926, had another ad, recommending Jews patronize the restaurant for Passover. It was also noted that breakfast was served at 6am, and dinner at 10am.

The Jewish Advocate, April 22, 1926, had a short article on Joe Bullian, the manager of The Prime Restaurant. It was also noted that the owner of the restaurant was William Josephs and it "is now considered one of the leading Kosher restaurants in the city." It was also mentioned that copies of the Jewish Advocate would now be placed on every table at the restaurant for the customers.

The Jewish Advocate, May 10 and 17, 1928, mentioned that Prime was probably the largest Jewish restaurant in Boston and now have opened a strictly vegetarian restaurant at 11 Harrison Avenue, "The Only One of Its Kind in Boston."

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1930, promoted the restaurant for Passover meals, from Passover Suppers to Passover dishes at their Cafeteria and Vegetarian spots.

The Jewish Advocate, November 6, 1931, noted that Prime was "The Finest Jewish Restaurant in the Heart of the Theatrical and Business Center."

Another advertisement in The Jewish Advocate, September 15, 1936.

The Jewish Advocate, March 19, 1937, had a brief article about Prime Restaurant, stating it would offer strictly Kosher meals for Passover, "featuring special suppers and services at the first and second seders in their newly created Kosher Dining Room at 9 1/2 Harrison avenue (upstairs) with Rabbi B. Mostofsky certifying to the kashruth."

The Jewish Advocate, March 26, 1937, had an ad about their Passover meals.

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1938, noted that Prime would have a New Year Party for two nights.

The Jewish Advocate, February 17, 1939, had an ad, noting you could now dine and dance at the restaurant, which now had a "special floor show" and no cover charge.

Unfortunate news! The Boston Globe, July 26, 1939, reported that there had been a two-alarm fire at the five-story brick building located at 9 1/2-11-13 Harrison Avenue. The damages were estimated at about $10,000. The first two floors had been occupied by Prime Restaurant and had been filled with flames and smoke. There was also water and smoke damage to the upper floors.

The Boston Herald, August 11, 1940, had a notice of an auction of dining room and kitchen fixtures and equipment of the Prime Restaurant, likely due to the fire, smoke, and water damage. The restaurant was apparently closed for a time, but reopening in less than a year.

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1941, published an ad for the Prime Restaurant, noting it would re-open on April 11.

The Jewish Advocate, April 18, 1941, ran a brief article mentioning that the Prime Restaurant and Cocktail Bar had formally reopened last week. The proprietor was noted as being Willie Joseph. The article also stated, "The Cocktail Bar will be opened to the public April 22, serving the finest nationally advertised brands of ale, beer, and bonded liquors at popular prices."

Another ad for Prime in the Jewish Advocate, April 3, 1942. It was noted they now had a new dining room and banquet hall, which can accommodate over 300 people.

The Prime restaurant continues to promote itself for Passover in an ad in the Jewish Advocate, March 10, 1949.

The Jewish Advocate, November 7, 1957, mentioned Prime would serve Thanksgiving dinners.

The Boston Evening Globe, January 18, 1961, had an obituary for William Joseph, age 70, who was the Treasurer of the Prime Restaurant while his brother, Benjamin, was the President. Then, the Boston Globe, August 5, 1962, reported that Benjamin Joseph, age 62, had died too. He was noted as the former owner of the Prime Restaurant, and two other restaurants. The new owner of Prime had been Isaac Manski, who came to the U.S. in 1937 from Poland. The Boston Herald Traveler, July 13, 1967, reported that Isaac, aged 72, had died.

It's probably not a surprise then that Boston Herald, June 23, 1963, posted an ad for an auction of the equipment and furnishings for the Prime Restaurant. For over 40 years, Prime Restaurant, located in Chinatown, was one of the premiere Kosher restaurants in Boston. Because of its popularity, and location, many Jews spent time walking through Chinatown, and likely became curious about the Chinese restaurants.

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In Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History (2016) by James C. O’Connell, there was a mention of a Boston Globe article from 1916 discussing the myriad restaurants in the city. that mentioned there had been at that time about 218 Jewish owned restaurants, mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens. It was noted, "The number had grown from a single Jewish restaurant in 1894 to 218 in 1916, reflecting the immigrant influx to Boston. These restaurants were mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens, selling Eastern European bagels, borscht, chicken soup, smoked fish, latkes, and the like, usually meeting kosher standards.”

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A quick note: The Jewish Advocate was a weekly Jewish newspaper, established in 1902, serving Greater Boston and the New England area. It was an important source of information for the Jewish community, and helped to promote the idea of Jews patronizing Chinese restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, September 7, 1907, presented the first advertisement in their newspaper for a Chinese restaurant, the Hankow, on 19 Essex Street. The ad noted the cleanliness of the restaurant, and that it will become "one of the BEAUTY SPOTS of Boston." However, it seems it would be nearly 20 years before the Jewish Advocate would run another ad for a Chinese restaurant. This might indicate that Chinese restaurants weren't too popular with the Jewish community until the mid-1920s.

It wasn't until 1926 that the next advertisement for a Chinese restaurant was published. The Jewish Advocate, September 9, 1926, had an ad for the King Joy Chinese Restaurant, at 311 Union Street, The ad also wished a Happy New Year to the Jewish community, referring to Rosh Hashanah, which was celebrated from September 8-10, 1926. A burst of other Chinese restaurants would advertise in the newspaper during the rest of 1926. This might have been the beginning of the close connection between Jews and Chinese food in Boston.

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, presented an ad for China Rose, offering specials meals, including a Club Lunch for 45 cents, a Table D'Hote Dinner for 85 cents, and Sunday & Holiday Special for $1.25. Dancing was also available at the restaurant.

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, also had an ad for the Palm Garden, with similarly priced special meals. The restaurant also offered music, but didn't mention whether dancing was available as well.

The Jewish Advocate, September 23, 1926, published this ad for the Santung Restaurant, which offered a Special Luncheon every day, and also had dancing.

The Jewish Advocate, November 11, 1926, had an ad for the Tremont Gardens, noting you could dine and dance.

There was a brief article in the Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1926, which discussed the new opening of the Symphony Restaurant, alleged to be the largest Chinese restaurant in Boston. It was located adjacent to Symphony Hall on Huntington Avenue. "Indeed the management has spared no expense to make this 'the largest and most beautiful restaurant in New England.'" It was also claimed that it would have the largest dance floor in Boston. The article also noted, "Mr. Wallace Hong of New York, who has come to the Hub to manage the 'Symphony,' has many Jewish acquaintance here in town and looks forward to their patronage."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, published this ad for Young China, promoting its "Chicken Chow Mein."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, also had this ad, for the Si Woo Restaurant, noting it was taking New Year Reservations.

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, published this ad for Yen Ho, an "American-Chinese Restaurant de Luxe." The restaurant offered music and dancing, and its New Year reservations cost $5.00 per plate.

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, also had an ad for Chung Sai, promoting its New Year's Eve celebration.

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When did Chinese restaurants first offer dancing? The common legend is that around 1925, Joseph Rines, a famous Jewish musician, convinced the manager of the San Tung (or Santung) restaurant to install the first dance floor of any Chinese restaurant in Boston. Joseph Rines was born October 1, 1902 and would die on December 12, 1986.

The Jewish Advocate, August 19, 1926, mentioned, “It was only a few years ago that Joe Rines just out of high school gathered several other young men and organized a band. Then came the radio and his appearance several times a week through Jackson’s Cabin on Station WEEI and now he has under his direction five leading orchestras in several of the most exclusive resorts in New England.” Joe was obviously very talented and driven, coming very far in only a short time.

The Jewish Advocate, July 28, 1927, published the above photo of Joe Rines. The accompanying article noted that Rines had come from an unusual family of musicians. “His grandfather was the leader and owner of the first band in the city of Boston and his grandfather and uncle practically controlled all of the better type of musical organizations about the time that the first Boston Musicians’ Union was formed.” In addition, other family members, including uncles and cousins were also musicians. As for Joe, “While Joe can now play almost every instrument in his 10-piece orchestra he is not satisfied. His one ambition is to be able to play every instrument in his orchestra well.” Personally, Joe was married, his wife named Gertrude, and they had a 2 1/2 year old daughter, Barbara.

The Jewish Advocate, March 7, 1929, claimed that about 3 and ½ years ago, Joe Rines, had an intriguing idea. “The idea of a dance floor in a Chinese restaurant had not been tried in Boston until Mr. Rines persuaded the manager of the San Tung Restaurant to mix dance notes with chop suey and install a dance floor. The idea caught on, and it was a success from the first.” It was also said that this idea made him “the ‘Paul Whitman’ of Boston, master of jazz, and entertainer par excellence.” Currently, Joe is the maestro of the Metropolitan Theatre Orchestra.” He was also popular on the radio, and it was noted, “It is said that he individually handles more radio work than any other Boston musician and employs more than 100 men weekly.”

The Boston Herald, February 25, 1919, had an advertisement for the opening of the Santung Restaurant, at 241-243 Huntington Avenue. They offered music every evening.

Six years later, the Boston Herald, January 25, 1926, published the first ad for the Santung which mentioned dancing was now available at the restaurant. There was no mention of the involvement of Joe Rines, but that might have been expected.

However, in 1925, the Santung restaurant actually wasn't the first Chinese restaurant to offer dancing, so Joe Rines was not the first to recommend dancing.

The Boston Globe, December 30, 1920, had the above ad for the Grand Garden and their New Year's Eve Celebration which offered "Orchestra--Entertainment--Dancing--Favors, etc." This could be seen as a one-off, and that dancing was not the norm at this restaurant, simply something extra for New Year's.

However, the Boston Post, January 15, 1921 printed an ad for the new Nankin Garden, the “Latest American Chinese Restaurant,” located on Brighton Avenue, at the corner of Harvard Avenue and next door to Allston Theater. This restaurant offered dancing and a jazz orchestra, from 6:30pm-11:30pm, and it wasn't a one-off or holiday celebration. This might have been the first Chinese restaurant in Boston to offer dancing on a regular basis.

There was an ad in the Boston Herald, January 20, 1925, for the Grand Garden, an American & Chinese restaurant at 660 Washington Street, at the corner of Beach Street. This now was a Dine and Dance restaurant, and the ad predated, by a week, the Santung advertisement mentioning dancing.

The Boston Herald, May 16, 1925, printed ads from two Chinese-American restaurants. The first was for the Santung Restaurant, which offered music and dancing. The other was the Palm Garden, at 218 Huntington Avenue which also offered music and dancing.

The Boston Herald, September 16, 1925, posted an ad for China Rose, a Chinese-American restaurant at 1088 Boylston Street in Kenmore. The restaurant offered dancing, without a cover charge.

The Boston Herald, November 25, 1925, printed an ad for the Court Chinese Restaurant, located at 14 Hanover Street. The Chinese-American restaurant also had music and dancing.

So, it seems dancing at Chinese restaurants extends back to at least 1920, although it didn't become a regular feature of any Chinese restaurant until 1921, four years before Joe Rines allegedly introduced dancing at Boston Chinese restaurants at the Santung restaurant.

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During the 1920s and 1930s, the Jewish Advocate presented a handful of Chinese recipes, mostly Chop Suey, although some were more Americanized.

Maybe the first recipe was presented in the Jewish Advocate, September 6, 1928. The recipe was for "American Chicken Chop Suey."

The Jewish Advocate, May 16, 1929, presented the same recipe, but it's much easier to read. As you can see, it doesn't require any special Chinese ingredients.

As an aside, the Jewish Advocate, March 14, 1929, mentioned that at a local carnival, there would be a food demonstration by Alice Bradley of Miss Farmer's School of Cookery. Her demonstration would include Chicken Chop Suey and Chicken Chow Mein, both which would be Kosher. Unfortunately, her recipes were not published in the newspaper.

The Jewish Advocate, April 17, 1931, published a different American Chop Suey, which could be made with any type of meat. The most curious aspect of the recipe is that the Chop Suey was supposed to be poured over Rice Krispies!

The Jewish Advocate, July 7, 1933, had another recipe for Chinese Chop Suey, which now used a couple Chinese ingredients, such as bamboo shoots and soy sauce.

The Jewish Advocate, February 23, 1934, ran a lengthy article, titled Chinese Dishes for American Cookery by Barbara B. Brooks, Home Economics Dept, Kellogg Co. Battle Creek, Michigan. It stated, "Few of us would find time to cook many of the traditional dishes." In regards to Chop Suey, the article noted, "It was created by the Chinese in foreign lands to satisfy Western tastes." It continued, "Ingredients are cut into shoestring strips, tiny morsels, or flower-like bits. Seasoning is all important."; It also noted, "There are endless variations for making Chop Suey."

In the recipe above, Rokeach Nyafat was a pure vegetable shortening that was widely used as a kosher substitute for chicken fat.

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Finally, there were at least a couple restaurants which combined Jewish and Chinese foods, although they were generally prepared separately, and not as a fusion cuisine.

The Jewish Advocate, May 15, 1931, had an advertisement for Miller's Delicatessen and Lunch, in Brookline, which offered "Real Chop Suey To Take Out." Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find more information about the nature of the chop suey they sold.

The Boston Globe, October 12, 1952, published a help wanted ad for Counter Girls for the Chit Chat Snack Bar, at 58 Tyler Street. The Tufts Medical Journal, Vol 21 (1953) had the above ad for the spot, and again, it said little about the type of cuisine served there.

However, the Boston Traveler, March 16, 1956, had a brief article about the restaurant, noting it was under a combined Jewish and Chinese management team, and it featured the cuisine of both! The article stated, “Chop suey and hot pastrami are staples; blintzes and chow mein are featured; and the patrons are as polyglot as the menu.” So, it seemed the two cuisines were presented separately, and not as fusion. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much else about this restaurant, except that in October 1956, it was up for auction. So, it only was in operation for about four years.

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So, why did Jewish people embrace Chinese restaurants so closely? That question has been previously addressed by numerous articles in the media. First, in New York City, the Jewish and Chinese communities lived very close to each other. As for Boston, that was true as well, as Harrison Avenue, and other parts of Chinatown, became a popular spot for Jewish businesses, from the garment industry to Kosher restaurants. In addition, the Boston theater district was close to Chinatown, and numerous Jews involved in the entertainment industry would dine at Chinese restaurants.

Second, generally the Chinese community didn't discriminate against the Jews, but rather welcomed them. Jews faced discrimination from many other groups, so finding the Chinese to be amenable to them, to welcome them into their community was very appealing.

Third, Kashrut is the set of Jewish dietary laws that define which foods are kosher, and thus acceptable to eat, and which are treyf, unfit for consumption. One of the kashrut laws was that meat and milk shouldn't be mixed, and Chinese cuisine generally didn't violate that law. Although Chinese cuisine did serve pork and shellfish, which weren't considered kosher, the Chinese commonly chopped up the meat and seafood to tiny pieces, so it has harder to identify them. Jewish customers could convince themselves that they weren't eating anything forbidden, that they were consuming "safe treyf." Newer Jewish generations also started choosing not to follow kashrut, so they had no trouble with consuming Chinese food.

Fourth, the Jewish tradition of dining at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day extends back over 100 years, and may even extend to the late 19th century. In Boston, I previously noted that in 1898, Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day were packed with non-Asian diners.

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that a fair number of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options.

As Forrest Gump might have once said, "Jews and Chinese food go together like peas and carrots."

Rant: Stock Up On Rosé!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 17 Aug 2026 12:57:02 +0000

The end of summer nears and Labor Day is only three weeks away. So, now's the time to stock up on Rosé wine, to ensure you have plenty for the rest of the year.

Once Labor Day arrives, many wine shops will stop carrying Rosé until the springtime. Wine distributors will generally stop recommending Rosé to their accounts. You'll stop seeing advertisements for Rosé wine and most wine magazines won't run any Rosé articles. This is all part and parcel of the myth that Rosé is only a "summer wine."

The reality is that Rosé season doesn't exist! It's a pervasive myth, a wrongful stereotype, that spring and summer herald Rosé season. The simple fact is that Rosé is appropriate year-round, even in the deepest winter. Many of those perpetuating the myth of Rosé season know better, but they choose to ignore the truth. Stop deluding the public and embrace the reality of Rosé every month of the year.

Sure, a chilled Rosé can taste wonderful on a hot, summer day, but it can equally satisfy when you are at home during a snow storm. If you can drink white wine in the fall and winter, there's absolutely no reason you cannot drink Rosé too. It's extremely food friendly, and there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't enjoy it with the same roast chicken or seafood dish you serve in the summer or winter. Rosé is also an excellent choice for Thanksgiving, a wine that can pair well with many different dishes, and a type of wine I frequently recommend to customers at the wine shop where I work.

The situation has slowly improved during the last several years but significant change is still needed. There are some wine stores, like Victoria Hill in Melrose (where I work), which stock Rosé throughout the year and if your local shop doesn't, then you should recommend that they stock some. And if they don't bring in some Rosé, then seek elsewhere for this wine.

Share some Rosé this fall and winter with your friends, showing them the potential of this delicious wine. Don't ask if they want Rosé but just pour them a glass. Once they taste the wine, they'll probably come to the realization of what they have been missing.

We also need more wine writers to pen Rosé articles during the fall and winter, to persuade consumers that this pink wine is appropriate during every season, and not just during the summer. Raising consumer awareness is vital to spreading a passion for Rosé year round. We need to correct their vinous myth.

I drink Rosé wine year round and strongly encourage my readers to do so as well.

Happy 2nd Anniversary To Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Sat, 15 Aug 2026 11:20:14 +0000

Happy 2nd Anniversary, and Best Wishes for many more years to come, to the owners of Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose.

Today, Saturday, August 15, is their 2nd Anniversary. Two years ago, when I first met the new owners, Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, it was with a little trepidation as we discussed their plans for the shop. That's a normal situation for employees when new owners take on any existing business. It raises a number of questions in your mind. What's their objective for the business? How will the business change? Will the staff be retained?

As I've mentioned before, their initial answers were very positive, and uttered with complete sincerity, so that my trepidations soon vanished. They wanted the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits store. They certainly didn't want to turn it into a generic package or convenience store, and didn't want to add lottery or cigarettes. They also planned on retaining any of the staff who desired to work there. Finally, although there would be changes, they hoped it would only be positive ones, those which would further their primary objective.

During their first year, I was pleased that they lived up to everything they told me on that first day. All of the new owners were sincere and hardworking, fully open to suggestions from all of the staff. Now, two years later, I'm even more pleased with the direction of the shop. There have been additional changes during the past year, and more changes are planned for the future. And all of these changes have continued to enhancing their original objective.

If you've visited the shop during the past two years, you may have seen Puja, who's the primary owner of Victoria Hill, responsible for the day to day operations. She has been instrumental in helping it become a destination shop, not just a neighborhood store, a place which attracts people from all of the surrounding communities and not just Melrose. In large part, this is accomplished by offering products that aren't available at many other local wine and liquor shops, including the big box shops. The diversity of their selection continues to always expand, and have been greatly embraced by the customers. Puja constantly and actively seeks out new wines for the shop.

For example, the wine selections, numbering around 600, usually include offerings from over 25 different countries, including less commonly available wines from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Georgia, Armenia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Mexico, Palestine, Ukraine, Slovenia, Hungary, and more. Wines from additional countries are also added when good choices become available.

The first time I've ever tasted wines from Palestine and the Ukraine was when they became available at the shop. I hadn't previously seen them at any other local shop. These have been delicious wines, indicative of the potential of these lesser known wine producing countries. And many customers have indicated their happiness at being able to obtain these more unique wines.

To expand the wine selection, adding maybe another 50 or so wines, a couple new wooden wine shelves have been recently added. These shelves have not yet been stocked, but plans are in the works to fill them in the near future. One element of this plan is to expand the Italian wine section, adding even more red wines from all across Italy.

The shop also stocks about 350 "Natural Wines," a significant amount more than a year ago. The term "Natural Wines," is used as an overall designation for wines that are Biodynamic, organic, sustainable, or similarly produced, whether certified or not. To more easily locate the Natural wines, you simply have to check the wine price labels, shown above, and look for an "N" in the right hand corner. More Natural wines continue to be added all the time.

As the holiday season approaches, even more wines will be added, included more higher end wines, which are great gifts for family and friends. If you are seeking more unique wines to give as gifts, or want to drink something special at your holiday gatherings, come here and we can find something to meet your desires.

The store also carries a variety of interesting and delicious Sakes, including Junmai, Honjozo, Ginjo, Daiginjo, Sparkling Sake and more. There are even a few Natural Sakes, which are very uncommon. If you need help selecting Sake, just ask me while I'm working and I'll be more than willing to assist you. We'll likely have a Sake Tasting around the start of October to celebrate International Sake Day, which is on October 1.

There's a chiller unit, which mostly contains wines, including Sparkling wines, White wines, Rosé wines, Orange wines and even chillable Red wines.

Besides the diverse wine selection, the Beer chiller also contains an excellent assortment, about 200, of craft beers and ciders, many from New England breweries, as well as some of the usual favorites, from Modelo to Budweiser. New beers and ciders are added all the time, including seasonal selections. And yes, pumpkin beers are now being stocked! Customers have been very complimentary about the beer selection.

The Spirits selection, from whiskey to mezcal, rum to tequila, vodka to liqueurs, is diverse as well, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Chartreuse, although such spirits aren't always available as only limited amounts are received. For example of the diversity, there are now Gins from all over the world, such as from Greece, Japan, Ireland, Mexico and other countries and U.S. states. Local spirits can also be found, from producers such as Barr Hill and Short Path.

There are a number of snacks available, from popcorn to potato chips, chocolate to crackers. There is also a chiller containing a variety of cheese, including a few from one of my favorites, Tillamook.

I continue to conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday afternoon, from 1-4pm. The tastings showcase diverse wines, exposing many customers to wines, countries and grapes they have never previously sampled. Customers have been very appreciative of this approach, and open to tasting more unique wines. They have often found new favorite wines, buying wines they wouldn't have purchased on their own, wary of buying a wine they've never experienced or knew little about. There have also been plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience these new wines.

On Friday nights, there are also often additional tastings, mainly conducted by distributors, of Wine, Beer or Spirits. Please come by any of these tastings to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines, beers and spirits.

Many thanks go to Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, for creating an excellent store, for carrying a diverse and interesting selection, and for being open to suggestions. They have worked very hard during these past two years, and it has been a real pleasure to work for them.

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out this destination spot as you are likely to find plenty of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. And please come to the tastings and learn more about the wonders of wines, beer and spirits from all over the world!

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm;

Sunday: 10am-7pm.

Follow the shop on Facebook and Instagram

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 13 Aug 2026 16:48:47 +0000

Appetizers - made with comforting family recipes for avgolemono soup, grilled dolmades and Papou’s spanakopita
Pitas & Bowls - customizable options with house made pita bread or Greek rice, paired with hand stacked and slow roasted proteins such as Harissa Chicken, Spiced Lamb Meatballs, and Roasted Garlic and Miso Pork
Salads - three signature options Kri Kri Salad, Shredded Cabbage Salad, and Greek Caesar with options to add protein
Traditional Plates - hearty taverna style favorites such as Baked Lamb Shank, Chicken Lemonata, Taverna Eggplant, and Pastitsio
Blackboard Specials - a daily rotating sustainable selection of fish and seafood, and additions highlighting seasonally foraged ingredients
Sides - hand cut Greek fries, tomato rice, orzo salad, and green beans
Sweet Touches - house made ice cream in flavors such as Greek coffee, Vanilla & Olive Oil, Baklava and the Kri Kri Sundae with tahini caramel and candied sour cherries. There is also Chef’s personal homage to the historic Chelmsford Ginger Ale with a nostalgic float
Beverages - A selection of imported Greek beers and funky Greek wines by the glass and bottle, alongside Greek café beverages.

The intimate space has indoor seating for 36 and a seasonal outdoor patio space will debut later this summer. In addition to dining in, Kri Kri Grill is available for takeout, delivery and has a corporate and events catering program. Kri Kri Grill is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and will eventually be open 7 days a week with extended hours on Friday and Saturday.

An Early History of Anchovies On Pizza: The First Topping

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 11 Aug 2026 14:32:05 +0000

Do you like anchovies on pizza?

Nowadays, many people dislike anchovies on pizza, and the dominant topping is pepperoni. However, that wasn't always the case. In fact, anchovies were the first pizza topping in the U.S., and were very common in the early 20th century. And there were people who criticized anyone who didn't like anchovies on their pizza.

Anchovies were common on pizza in Naples before pizza ever came to the U.S. Anchovies were cheap, offered much umami flavor, and could be stored well for a lengthy time. When Neapolitans immigrants brought pizza to the U.S., it was only natural that many of those pizzas would be topped with anchovies. Otherwise, the pizzas were just topped with cheese. Pizza likely came to the U.S. in the late 19th century, although documentation of such first appears in the early 20th century.

One of the first newspaper articles mentioning Neapolitan pizza is found in the Boston Sunday Journal (MA), October 4, 1903. It stated, “Scattered through North and Prince streets and other portions of the Italian colony where Neapolitans congregate are occasional little shops with the words ‘Pizze Cavuie’ on the windows. The words mean simply ‘hot cakes’ in the Neapolitan dialect.” The article continued, “Neapolitans in Boston say that there are few places in the city to which the famous Naples specialty has been successfully transplanted.”

The article also described how the pizza was created, starting with a fat roll of dough that was flattened until was is a little thicker than a pancake and a little larger than an ordinary pie. The top of the pizza was then topped with bits of lard, Roman cheese, cooked tomatoes, and aregata, “.., the spicy, aromatic herb which is a favorite Italian seasoning.” This would have been a blend of dried herbs like oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme. The pizza would then be put it in an oven for two minutes.

A pizza cost 5-10 cents, dependent on its size. It was also noted that, “In Naples the price ranges from 10 cents down to a penny for little ones containing only a good-sized mouthful. A favorite cry for them at the doors of the bakeries in Naples is “Ca’ pummarola e alice,’ which is dialect for “with tomatoes and anchovy, some of them being made with anchovy there, though the fish is never added here.” So, it appears the first pizza spots in Boston offered only cheese pizza, without any anchovies.

About two years later, a very similar article appeared in the New York Herald (NY), June 18, 1905. It seems that the two articles might have been written by the same person, due to some of the same content, although part of the article was directed to New York. For example, it was said that there were only two places in New York where you could get “real genuine Neapolitan pizza.” It continued, “One is on Spring street and one on Gran. All the rest are Americanized substitutes.”

The article described how the pizza was made, and that mirrored the information from the Boston Sunday Journal article. The article also noted, “Pizze Cavuie means simply hot cakes. You won’t find the words in the dictionary, because they aren’t Italian, but Neapolitan dialect.” It was also said that anchovies weren't yet found on any New York pizzas.

A pizza definition. A book, Explanations of All Terms used in Cooking-Cellaring by Kurt Heppe (1908) provided the definition: “Pizza—a Neapolitan cake with oil, tomatoes and anchovies.” As we see, anchovies were considered a basic component of pizza.

There is then about a twenty year gap then in newspaper coverage concerning pizza, which mentions it numerous times but provides little detail. Anchovies likely became more common during this period, and by the late 1920s, were dominant. There would be a few exceptions during the late 1920s and 1930s, but they were more outliers.

The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), February 6, 1928, mentioned the opening of Dante’s Tavern, and some of their some specials included “pizza d’anchovies, pizza di sardi and pizza di formaggio.” Pizza with anchovies, sardines or cheese.

The Passaic Daily News (NJ), December 13, 1928, noted that pizza was a cake or pie that was topped by tomatoes, anchovies, and cheese.

The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, provided a bit more description. “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period.

The Record (NJ), July 1, 1933, added that in New York, “A pizza is an Italian pancake which comes in two sizes, the smaller about 14 inches in diameter and the larger fully two feet. With both go tomatoes, anchovies, cheese and other delicacies. The cost is 25 cents for one and 35 cents for the other. The pancakes are baked in a huge brick oven,…”

Pizza in California! The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1933, mentioned that Antonio Farina was “known as the greatest man cook in the Italian quarter…” The article continued, his special dish was pizza, “Pizza, made only in Naples, and Farina is the only man who can make it properly in San Francisco.” It added, "It’s a concoction of special dough, oil, cheese, tomatoes, thyme and many other more mysterious things. Sometimes anchovy is substituted for the cheese.”

The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such.

The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued, “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie."

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), April 26, 1935, provided a recipe for Italian Pie, or Pizza, and you can see anchovies were one of the ingredients. Other ingredients included tomatoes, garlic, cloves, pepper and olive oil. But, no cheese.

The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), September 6, 1935, had an PIC of ad for Colucci’s Pizzeria, noting it sold “Pizza with mazzarella, anchovies, fried pepper, mushrooms.” This is the first mention I found of adding mushrooms to a pizza.

The New York Post (NY), September 20, 1935, ran an article with the above title. The article stated, “The anchovy wing of pizza lovers rose up in protest today at the disclosure that a cop yesterday ate three Italian pizza which were not garnished and garlanded with anchovies.” It was also noted, “The glorious pizza, they said, is not at its best if it is made largely of cheese, or if sardines are substituted for anchovies.” H. Paynter, a “culinary sage of Riverdale,” was quoted as saying, “Without anchovies the otherwise delectable pizza is a barbarous dish fit for savages who would gobble sparrows uncooked and with the feathers on.” Mayor Laguardi was also asked for his opinion on this pizza matter and he stated, “They’re too doughy for my taste…But if you want my recipe, here it is. A piece of dough, cheese, tomatoes and anchovies.”

The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 5, 1936, printed an ad for Jerrys Tavern, noting "During Lent Try One of Jerry’s Pizza With Anchovies.”

The Hartford Courant (CT), March 19, 1936, mentioned, “The pizza cook cannot be any Italian. He must be a Neapolitan, for only in Naples does it reach its perfection. There is at least one Neapolitan making pizza in Hartford, and he’s an artist at his trade.” The article continued, “The foundation for pizza is a round piece of Italian bread dough…the filling, which consists of a layer of parmesan cheese, a layer of tomato paste, a generous scattering of grated red peppers, and a thorough dosing of olive oil. On top, anchovies are generally scattered.”

A pizza recipe was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. It stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe.

The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), June 22, 1937, stated that you should check out Lupo’s restaurant, a true Neapolitan food spot, to eat pizza. “A young fellow was working at a table rolling and smacking a piece of dough into a circle about twelve inches across. Then he put bits of lard on it, tomato sauce and anchovies (or mozzarella cheese, which was introduced into California by the father of Al Santoro, the sports writer), sprinkled it with the herb basil and parmesan cheese, lifted it with a wooden scoop and set it in the flaming oven.” The pizza then cooked for about 10 minutes.

Another recipe. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), July 7, 1937, provided a pizza recipe from Henry Armetta, a “famous movie actor” and master cook. The recipe stated that a pizza would be topped with “cut-up tomatoes, anchovies, French cheese, and sprinkle all over with olive oil and ‘aregano’, pepper and salt.”

The Times Herald Record (NY), August 19, 1937, had an advertisement for a Pizzeria on Prince and the pizza was “Furnished with Cheese. Fresh Tomato or Anchovies.”

The Owens Valley Progress Citizen (CA), November 26, 1937, mentioned Lupo's restaurant, which I previously mentioned. The article noted, “Tried a new dish at Lupo’s Restaurant Neapolitan Pizzeria on Kearny Street and was introduced to pizza (pronounced pizzsta) an Italian concoction that’s baked in an oven, contains the amazing combination of lard, tomato sauce, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and parmesan cheese. You eat it hot, and like pie.”

Another recipe. The Miami Herald (FL), April 1, 1938, provided a recipe from a Miami woman of Italian descent. It was mentioned, “Pizza Napoletana is an unusual bread, layered with tomatoes and anchovies and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, thyme and pepper and brushed over with olive oil before baking.”

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), October 21, 1938, provided a recipe for “Pizza (Hot Bread)." Once again, anchovies were a listed ingredient.

The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis.

Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."

The Journal (CT), January 28, 1939, ran an article from the Philadelphia Record. It noted that pizza was a "new delicacy." It added, “What is pizza? Well, it’s just a big open-faced pie, filled with tomatoes, anchovies, mozzarella, cheese, peppers, or what have you—and baked while you wait. You name your own delicacy and the pizza baker will drop it in. Then it comes out of the oven—all golden brown and crisp,…”

The article continued, “The most popular pizzeria (pizza bakery) in town is Fiore’s, 1653 E. Passayunk avenue.” And, “The reason for Fiore’s popularity is Derigi Cecchini, the pizza baker. He learned his trade as a boy in Naples, the birthplace of pizza.” Hands not silverware! It was also noted, “It’s cut into pie segments and eaten with hands. Don’t let Derigi see you eat it with a fork. His artistic Latin soul will be hurt.” It was also mentioned that “Musicians and show people are great pizza eaters.” Pizza was so popular in Philadelphia that in the last 8 months, 9 pizzerias had opened on Passyung Avenue and 8 others had opened in other sections of Little Italy.

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), February 17, 1939, noted, “…Italian tomato pie, a fromagenous delicacy of tomatoes, bread crust, anchovies, spice, bacon or whatever else happens to be around and likely looking. A new dish to Washington, it is made at the Little Dutch Tavern (extraordinary misnomer), at 1304 Pennsylvania-ave se, the only place south of Philadelphia where the exotic business is conducted.”

Their chef was Anthony Camposano and he provided a recipe. Anchovies are mentioned, but so is bacon as a possible topping. Finally, it was mentioned that pizza should only be eaten with your hands, and not any silverware.

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), February 22, 1939, printed this ad for the Neapolitan Kitchen, noting that Pizza came with a choice of cheese, anchovies or mushrooms.

The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies.

The Boston Globe (MA), July 28, 1939, provided a recipe for Pizza Neapolitena, noting four toppings for the pizza, which you could use individually or in any combination. Those choices included cheese, anchovies, sausage, and sardines.

The Daily Times (Iowa), October 19, 1939, had a brief review of a cookbook, Herbs for the Kitchen by Irma Goodrich Mazza. The cookbook was “devoted entirely to dishes which the author believes taste better when herbs are used.” In a recipe from Naples, pizza was noted as “—a raised bread dough covered lightly with anchovies, tomato and marjoram and baked in a hot oven.”

The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), October 26, 1939, printed the above ad for the Fairmount Café, which offered Pizza with Anchovies for 40 cents.

The Dayton Daily News (OH), October 26, 1939, mentioned Lupo’s restaurant in San Francisco, and the article stated; the pizza was “spread with olive oil or lard, anchovies or ham, tomato paste and cheese sometimes of several types.”

It generally wouldn't be until the 1940s that other pizza toppings, such as meatballs, sausage, and pepperoni started becoming available and more commonly known. Anchovies were king for almost forty years, but then hit a decline as other toppings started being added to pizza. Today, you can find pizza with almost any type of topping, although anchovies are often still available.

Rant: Ugly Food Deserves Love!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 10 Aug 2026 12:31:32 +0000

"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."
--Confucius

In the food world, where Instagram is immensely popular, you've been fed a lie. You've been led to believe that only "beautiful" food is worthy of attention. Everything is done to make their food look as attractive as possible. If a stylish and compelling photo can't be taken of a dish, then it's ignored.

It's a shallow and insidious belief, and easily spreads beyond the food world, so that people begin to believe that outer beauty is most important in many other areas too. It teaches the wrong lesson. We need to battle this lie, and embrace the fact that even "ugly" food deserves love.

The photo above probably isn't "worthy" of Instagram because sausage gravy generally isn't seen as appealing on a picture. It's often considered an "ugly" food, and thus not worthy of attention. It doesn't look pretty, and some might think the gravy resembles something disgusting. However, this dish, a Hash Stack, from Nick & Andy's in Danvers, is pure comfort food, a delicious blend of flavors and textures, and definitely worthy of your attention. It's a combination of hash browns, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, cheese and sausage gravy. This "ugly" dish shouldn't be ignored as it possesses its own "inner beauty," a food for the soul.

Chain restaurants understand the appeal of "beautiful" food and their commercials, often using a food stylist, work hard to depict their foods in the best light. However, when you actually patronize those restaurants, what you get served probably doesn't resemble the beauty of their commercials. It's another type of lie, one pertinent to Instagram as well. Restaurants may help Instagrammers take the best photo of their food, although when you dine there, your dish might not actually look like those photos.

In addition, a photo doesn't tell you how a dish tastes. All you see is the outer shell, and not what is within. Beautiful food can lack sufficient flavor and taste. It might be too dry, too overcooked, too unbalanced, too salty, etc. And ugly food can be the opposite, some of the best food you've ever tasted. We need to look beyond appearances, to get to the heart of what is truly important. Would you rather eat something that is pretty and tasteless, or something ugly and flavorful?

We need to stop promoting the idea that only beautiful food is worthy. We need to embrace the myriad "beauty" that is found in all dishes, even if on the outside, they don't follow traditional images of beauty. "Ugly" food deserves just as much attention and we shouldn't settle for less.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 06 Aug 2026 17:01:31 +0000

Non-Rant: Recent Food Highlights

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 03 Aug 2026 14:50:00 +0000

There won't be a Rant today, but rather a highlight of some of the foods I've recently enjoyed. I'm just not in a mood for a Rant, and would rather spread the joy of some delicious dishes.

An Extra-Cheese Pizza from Prince Pizzeria in Saugus. I've been dining here since I was a child, and this year, the restaurant has celebrated their 65th Anniversary. Their pizza recipe has remained largely the same over all of those years, except for a slight change in the cheese blend. It once was an all-cheddar blend but now also has some mozzarella. It's reminiscent in some ways to Greek pizza, but forms its own unique style. I regularly have lunch here, enjoying pizza, or sometimes other tasty dishes, like their Meatballs Sliders.

The "Cadillac" Sandwich at Anthony's Italian Specialties in Stoneham. Chicken Cutlets, Prosciutto, Fresh Slices of Mozzarella, and a Balsamic Glaze. You can also opt for Roasted Red Peppers if you want. I got it on a braided roll, and it's a huge sandwich, which could feed two people, or one very hungry person. All of the sandwiches at Anthony's are known to be quite large, filled with plenty of meat and other toppings. Their Italian is a hugely popular, as is their Lobster Salad available only on Fridays. Everything tastes fresh, is reasonably priced for the quantity and quality, and quite delicious. This is also another spot that I have been visiting for many years.

Coffee Roll from Donuts With A Difference in Medford. This is my favorite donut shop, a very old-school spot which makes more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones you find at many other spots. They are made in-house so they are always fresh, and if you're lucky, they may even be served warm. When's the last time you had a warm donut at any donut shop? They are also inexpensive, and you can get a dozen donuts for only $19, which is half-the price at some other donut shops. Their coffee roll, which is quite large, costs under $3.00, and is one of my favorite choices. A soft, fresh texture, with the sweet glaze atop it, and plenty of cinnamon within.

Whoopie Pies from Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich. These aren't always available at the bakery, but when they are, I'm always sure to buy a few. They are small enough for a single person to enjoy, and the chocolate cake is soft, moist and full of chocolate flavor. The whipped filling is creamy and has just the right amount of sweetness. A nicely balanced treat, it's one of my favorite Whoopie pies north of Boston. I also have to mention their Ham & Cheese Croissants which may also be one of the best, with such a flaky and buttery croissant, and often is served warm. Anytime I visit the Ipswich area, I nearly always stop here. As you should too.

Fried Lobster Tails plate from the Clam Box in Ipswich. Only available on Fridays, the fried lobster tails are one of my favorites. I certainly love their other dishes, from Fried Clams to Fried Scallops, but this is my top favorite. Each piece is a half-lobster tail, with a crisp and clean fried coating over tender, sweet lobster. There is drawn butter for dipping too. You usually get at least 7 pieces of lobster, making for a hearty meal with French fries and onion rings. Others have their own favorite clam shacks, but the Clam Box remains my personal favorite.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 30 Jul 2026 15:10:19 +0000

Serving fresh catch since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature $2 oysters from the East and West Coast in their bar area from 3-6pm. Across town, Joe’s Waterfront on Boston Harbor will showcase buck-a-shuck local oysters all day until they’re gone.

3) Salt & Straw ice cream’s Summer Pies flavor series has officially returned, including the addition of a brand new flavor, Peaches and Cream Galette. Co-founder and head ice cream maker Tyler Malek has once again reimagined classic pies as five standout ice cream flavors, churning their flaky crusts, jammy fillings, and custardy centers into a suite of craveable scoops – available now through August 27th.

Additionally, Salt & Straw is debuting a new frozen treat, the limited-edition Tacolate Milkshake – an indulgent spin-off of their viral Tacolate, the nostalgic and highly sought-after ice cream taco. Available starting this Saturday, August 1st through September 7th, the Tacolate Milkshake blends Cinnamon Snickerdoodle ice cream with a Tacolate and is finished with a chocolate drizzle, whipped cream, wildberry sugar dusting, and half a Tacolate topper.

Flavors in The Summer Pies Series include:
Peaches and Cream Galette – A brand new creation: fresh peach ice cream studded with hunks of a rustic peach galette, and ribboned with peach pie filling
Wild-Foraged Berry Slab Pie – The beloved returning flavor, featuring wild berry pie filling and bits of double-baked pie crust folded into salted vanilla ice cream
Wildflower Honey and Lemon Chess Pie – Cultured frozen yogurt studded with lemon chess pie, sweetened with wildflower honey and finished with a drizzle of housemade lemon curd
Gruyère and Tomato Custard Tart – A savory gruyère cheese and tomato jam tart, diced into bite-sized pieces and tossed into a salt and pepper custard ice cream
Coconut Cherry Pie with Almond Crust (v) – Sour cherry pie filling and shortbread almond crust folded into coconut cream

Rant: Celebrate World Baijiu Day!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 27 Jul 2026 06:00:00 +0000

This August, there are a number of drink holidays, including: August 7: International Beer Day, August 13: National Prosecco Day, August 16: National Rum Day, August 18: National Pinot Noir Day, and August 30: National Cabernet Sauvignon Day. The basic idea behind such days is to promote a grape, wine, beer, spirit or cocktail, and savvy marketers take the opportunity to highlight and push their products. However, do we really need all of these drink holidays?

For the more popular choices, like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Prosecco, I don't think we need a special day to showcase these grapes or wine types. Nearly every wine consumer knows about those grapes. So, as they're already popular, we should instead shine a spotlight on grapes that are more worthy of attention, grapes which are less popular or less known. There are plenty of under-appreciated grapes and wine types, such as Assyrtiko, Rkatsiteli, Pošip, Baga, Mavrud, Manzanilla Sherry and many more, which would benefit greatly from their own special day.

We also don't need a day just to celebrate Beer or Rum, as again, they are already well known to consumers. There are other alcoholic beverages worthy of more attention, who need greater recognition with consumers, from Sake to Shochu. These niche spirits need the publicity, to boost awareness and sales.

I would much rather see days celebrating the drink underdogs, helping to gain them recognition and new fans. I want people to broaden their palates, and taste something new for them. They need to be enticed to step out of their comfort zone. For example, Sake is still vastly under appreciated in the U.S. so having a day that celebrates and promotes it makes sense. Did you know International Sake Day, which is celebrated each year on October 1, has existed since 1978, nearly 50 years? That makes it far older than nearly all of the other wine and drink holidays.

On Saturday, August 9, we should celebrate the 12th Anniversary of World Baijiu Day, a holiday created by Jim Boyce, who runs the nightlife blog Beijing Boyce and wine blog Grape Wall of China. The intent of this holiday is to raise awareness of Baijiu, to highlight its wonders beyond the borders of China. Even though Baijiu is the most popular spirit in the world, most Americans know little, if anything about it.

As I've said before, Baijiu seems to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world, both having a reputation for funkiness which turns off some people, while others become fervent fans. It's a fascinating beverage, with much diversity of flavor and taste, and I strongly encourage everyone to seek it out and sample some of its wonders.

When is the last time you saw a drink writer pen an article about Baijiu? It's a rarity, indicating that more attention needs to be paid to this spirit. Not enough people are writing and talking about this unique beverage, despite its intriguing history, production methods, and customs. We need to change this and World Baijiu Day is an important way to help spread the word, and maybe entice more writers to talk about Baijiu, and for more consumers to sample Baijiu in cocktails on its own.

Over the years, I've written sixteen articles about Baijiu, covering a diverse selection of topics, from Baijiu reviews to a the detailed explanation of its production methods. This is a great place to start your education about Baijiu.

Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1)
Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)
Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)
Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)
Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)
Vinn Bajiu: Made in Portland
Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus
World Baijiu Day: August 9
Taizi Baijiu: A New Zealand Treasure
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 1)
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 2)

Rant: Stop Drink Hate

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen: World Baijiu Day & Dine Out Boston

Luzhou Laojiao: Mainstreaming Baijiu With Cocktails

Baijiu Pop-Ups at Backbar: Learn About This Fascinating Chinese Spirit

A Baijiu Class with Derek Sandhaus

In celebration of World Baijiu Day, there will be events held all over the world, from Beijing to Auckland, Dublin to Stockholm. In the U.S., there will be Baijiu events in Baltimore, Chicago, Dallas, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, New York City, Portland (OR), San Francisco, San Jose, Scottsdale, and Washington, D.C.

In the Boston area, Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Kendall Square, Cambridge, will once again celebrate World Baijiu Day. They will be celebrating with two ways to discover China’s most iconic spirit. First, you can try their seasonal Baijiu cocktail, the Eastern Sun, smoky Baijiu and Mezcal meet juicy passion fruit and lime. Second, you can explore a Baijiu flight highlighting a range of distinctive aromas and flavors. Sumiao states, "Whether you’re a curious first-timer or already a baijiu fan, join us in Kendall Square and experience the world’s most-consumed spirit in a fresh and approachable way." They also have three Baijiu cocktails on their regular menu, including the Fung Wah, Perpetual Motion, and Red Ruby.

Baijiu is becoming more readily available at liquor shops in the U.S., though previously you might not have even realized it existed. There's a distillery in Connecticut, the Branford Distillery, which produces a Gaoliang Baijiu. The Oversea Distillery, in Maryland, produces two Baijiu bottles, including a Light Aroma Baijiu and an Aged 6 Years Baijiu. Baijiu may be hugely popular in Asia but it needs much greater exposure in the rest of the world, including in the U.S. It's a unique and delicious spirit and well worth seeking out. This is a Drink Day that I wholeheartedly support and hope that everyone else takes this opportunity to acquaint themselves with Baijiu.

Expand your palate and try something different and more unique. Drink some Baijiu and celebrate World Baijiu Day!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 23 Jul 2026 16:11:33 +0000

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) In celebration of National Ice Cream Month in July, Maple & Ash, in the Seaport, has teamed up with the iconic Cabot’s Ice Cream (Newton) to give its popular Sundae Service a temporary twist with local flavor. Through August 18, Maple & Ash will swap a scoop of its usual Neapolitan trio in its Sundae Tower for a customized flavor created by Cabot’s just for the occasion: a brown sugar-bourbon icy delight infused with chopped dark chocolate.

Presented on high tea platters, Maple & Ash’s signature Sundae Tower is a nostalgic DIY ice cream sundae inspired by Chef-Owner Danny Grant’s mother, who, during his childhood, was famous for her movie nights paired with sundaes. With a scoop on Cabot’s on top with chocolate and vanilla down below, create a dream dessert with toppings ranging from hot fudge to peanut butter cups, sprinkles, brownie brittle, gummy bears, seasonal fruit, and more.

COST: Sundae Tower: $25.00

2) As thousands flock to the North End for Boston's iconic 116th Fisherman's Feast, Prezza is bringing the celebration to the table with a limited-time seafood menu inspired by one of the city's most cherished Italian traditions. From August 1 through August 16, guests can indulge in six seafood specials available à la carte, making it easy to enjoy a full feast or mix and match favorites while taking in the excitement of the annual celebration.

The ‘Fisherman’s Feast’ menu includes:
· Oysters with Cucumber Mignonette and Cocktail Sauce - $24
· Fried Clams with Lemon Caper Aioli - Market Price
· Scallop Crudo with Cara Cara Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette, and Calabrian Chilis - $24
· White Anchovy Crostini with Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes, and Olive Tapenade - $24
· Octopus Carpaccio with Baby Arugula, Citrus Vinaigrette, Salsa Verde, and Calabrian Chilis - $26
· Grilled Lobster Tail with Creamy Corn Lobster Tart and Onion Rings - Market Price

To complement the seafood specials, Prezza will also feature a limited-time Spritz Menu throughout the celebration, offering refreshing Italian-inspired cocktails perfect for summer sipping. Guests can choose from:
· Aperol Spritz
· Hugo Spritz
· Campari Spritz
· Sarti Rosa Spritz
· Select Spritz
· Limoncello Spritz
· Cucumber Spritz
· Mayan Spritz

To help guests make the most of the festivities, Prezza will also offer extended hours during the Feast's busiest weekend, opening Saturday, August 15 from 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM and Sunday, August 16 from 12:00 PM – 8:00 PM.

3) Salt & Straw is making its long-awaited Boston debut with a menu created just for the city. Opening tomorrow, July 24, in Boston’s Seaport District, the cult-favorite artisan ice cream brand’s new New England scoop shop launches with exclusive Boston-inspired flavors, the return of one of its most beloved limited-edition creations, and a line-up of the signature favorites that have made Salt & Straw an ice cream destination.

Leading the opening is the exclusive Boston Cream Pie flavor, featuring vanilla chiffon cake ice cream with a dark chocolate fudge swirl and vanilla bean custard, a tribute to the city's most iconic dessert. Also available in Boston is the regional Pistachio & Ricotta Cannoli, which celebrates Boston's vibrant Italian American community, made with pistachio ice cream, ricotta ribbons, crisp cannoli shell pieces, and candied nuts. Opening weekend will also mark the return of the beloved Cool Dog, co-founder and head ice cream maker Tyler Malek's playful reimagining of the nostalgic frozen treat. It features rum-spiked Double Fold Vanilla ice cream, silky crème anglaise, and rich dark chocolate fudge tucked inside a vanilla cake bun, finished with coffee whipped cream and rainbow sprinkles. Its return is a celebratory nod to the imaginative, unexpected creations that Salt & Straw is known for.

The opening has been years in the making for co-founders Kim & Tyler Malek, and makes one of Salt & Straw’s most anticipated East Coast debuts, which is located within Commonwealth Pier in the heart of the Seaport. The Boston shop will be open from 11am-11pm each day.

"Boston has been a city we've admired for its incredible food culture, rich history, and deep sense of community," says CEO and co-founder Kim Malek. "There's an authenticity here that feels incredibly aligned with who we are as a company. We couldn't be more excited to open our shop, build relationships with local makers and organizations, and create a gathering place where people can connect for years to come."

"Boston is a city with so many iconic flavors and traditions, but it also champions innovation," says co-founder Tyler Malek. "That's exactly what inspires us. We love diving into a city's culinary history while discovering the people who are shaping what's next. We can't wait to create flavors and collaborations that celebrate everything that makes Boston so special."

The Boston shop will be a home for Salt & Straw's thoughtfully crafted, classic flavor menu and monthly rotating series—including August’s Summer Pies Series (launching 7/24), an annual celebration of beloved pies turned into scoopable “a la mode” flavors— which showcase artisanal ingredients sourced from longtime purveyor partners, local farms, and housemade components.

Signature favorites include Chocolate Gooey Brownie, featuring brownie bites that stay perfectly chewy thanks to housemade marshmallow fluff; Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons, and Strawberry & Coconut Water Sherbet, made with fresh berries and dairy-free ingredients. The scoop shop will also offer viral fan favorites items like The Tacolate (created in partnership with Taco Bell), and The Cake, inspired by the brand’s beloved Birthday Cake & Blackberries flavor.

I have previously visited Salt & Straw in Portland and loved their ice cream and unique flavor combinations, so I'm excited for this new shop in Boston.

Rant: Sparking A Flame in Wine Consumers

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 20 Jul 2026 06:30:00 +0000

"I'd rather that wine writers tried to deepen people's love of wine,..."
--Reading Between The Wines by Terry Theise

Wine writers can easily provide sterile reviews of wines, with a few descriptors, possibly using flavors that are unfamiliar to many consumers. For example, how many general consumers know what gooseberries taste like? These reviews might also provide their own point score, letter grade or similar ranking. Such a ranking doesn't provide much information about what a consumer will experience with such a wine. If a reader trusts your judgment, after having assessed your reviews over a length of time, then they might select a wine based on your recommendation.

There may be a better way.

Employees at a wine store can also offer more sterile advice. They may tell customers how many points a wine scored, or they can recite a cold list of basic wine descriptors. That will certainly lead to some wine sales, but there are probably wines that can't be sold in this manner.

There may be a better way.

Something is missing in both of these situations: Passion!

Sterile advice might help to sell a wine, but you don't imbue a passion for wine into those consumers. You're treating wine as a mere commodity, like any other, and making consumers treat it as one as well. You'e not sparking a fire of excitement within consumers, not getting them to fall deeper in love with wine. And that's what's needed, getting more consumers not only to drink specific wines, but to get passionate about it, to embrace its diversity, beauty, and mystery.

Not all consumers will be amenable to embracing that passion. Trying to assess who is amenable can be an effort, but it pays off in the end. Each consumer you inspire with that passion will likely spread that passion to others. With all the recent talk of decreases in wine consumption, then spreading a passion for wine is even more important.

Why do you write about wine? Why do you work in a wine store? Is it merely a job? Or do you do it because you have a passion for wine? If you possess that passion, then why don't you try to share your passion with others, rather than just write sterile reviews of try to sell wine without the use of passion?

I've worked in a wine shop for over fourteen years, and been writing about wine for over 20 years. When I offer a wine recommendation with passion, rather than points, I often see a clear difference in the eyes of the consumer. Their eyes take on the spark of passion that is found within my own. They are no longer buying just a commodity, but they have found an experience, an emotional connection which will last far longer than that bottle of wine. They get excited to buy wine, desirous of tasting different ones.

Think back to your own wine mentors and friends. I bet those who most inspired you were those who shared their passion for wine with you. If all they did was provide you wine scores, I very much doubt they would have become significant inspirations for you. So infuse life into your writing and your words, and let your passion spark a wildfire in others.

2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray: Loire Bubbly & Mussels

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 14 Jul 2026 13:59:42 +0000

This past Friday night, I enjoyed a dinner of mussels at home, having purchased them earlier that day at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market in Ipswich. They were organic PEI Mussels, which were rope grown, for only $7.49 for a bag. I love mussels, steamed in a flavorful broth, and accompanied by a crusty bread for sopping up the broth.

Wild mussels have been consumed for thousands of years and farmed mussels extend back at least to the 12th century, when they were cultivated in the waters off the coast of France. The Pilgrims probably feasted on mussels during the first Thanksgiving. Farmed mussels are one of the most sustainable forms of aquaculture. They are easy and quick to grow, better than probably any other bivalve. They are also filter feeders, which eat algae, plankton and other microscopic sea creatures, and help to purify the water. They make the oceans cleaner which is a great benefit.

Mussels are also a healthy choice, one of the best seafoods you can consume. They are a good source of protein, with the added benefit of being low in calories and saturated fats. In some respects, that makes it a better choice than beef. In addition, mussels are a good source of selenium, vitamin B12, zinc and folate. Most importantly, mussels also possess a significant amount of Omega-3 fatty acids, which is important in reducing the risk of heart disease. A 3 ounce portion of mussels contains about 700 milligrams of Omega-3s, placing it high on the list of seafood with significant amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, mussels have a far less risk of mercury and PCBs. In many ways, mussels are an excellent nutritious choice and should be a regular visitor to your dinner plate.

To accompany the mussels, I selected a bottle of bubbly from the Loire region of France, the 2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray (about $27), which is supposed to be an excellent pairing for seafood, from oysters to crab. I received this bottle as a media sample.

Although the Domaine Pichot winery was established in 1996, the history of the Pichot family extends back to at least 1739, when they were restaurateurs. They purchased their first vineyards around 1770, so they could supply their restaurant with wine. When Domaine Pichot was founded, the family brought together three family vineyards: Coteau de la Biche, Le Peu de la Moriette, and Le Marigny. The vines are generally about 30 years old, and are planted with only Chenin Blanc. Their vineyards are organic and certified sustainable.

The Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray is produced from grapes, about 35 years old, from a small, 1.5 hectare vineyard within the Le Marigny site. The soil in this vineyard is limestone and flint. The sparkling wine is made in the méthode traditionnelle (like Champagne), with fermentation in 70% in stainless steel and 30% in 400 liter used barrels, followed by two years on fine lees in the bottle. No dosage is used. Only 6,000 bottles are produced each year.

On the nose, the wine was expressive, with notes of white flowers and stone fruit, and in the glass, there were plenty of tiny bubbles. On the palate, it was elegant and crisp, fresh and flavorful, dry and pleasing. It possessed a complex melange of flavors, including peach and green apple, a subtle nuttiness, a touch of toast, and hints of baking spice. The finish was persistent and satisfying, and each sip beckoned you to take another. It paired very well with the mussels, and I could easily see it pairing well with other seafood too. This bubbly over-delivers for its price point, and I heartily recommend it.

A Tavola: A Birthday Celebration

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 13 Jul 2026 13:57:37 +0000

This past weekend I celebrated my birthday, and enjoyed some special meals and wines, both at home and at a restaurant. It's a tradition that I can select any restaurant I want to celebrate and this year I chose A Tavola, in Winchester, which is one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants. Chef Joe Carli prepares excellent Italian cuisine, especially his pasta dishes, with many local ingredients. His wine list is all Italian, and presents a diverse range of choices, at all price points.

My birthday dinner was as delicious as usual, and a strong standout was the local Striped Bass, probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. A Tavola continues to receive my highest recommendation. If you want to dine outside, they have a nice patio, or if you dine inside, you could make a reservation for the Chef's Counter, and watch Chef Joe work his culinary magic in the kitchen.

While perusing the wine list, I sought a light-style red wine and the 2023 Fuedo di Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato ($50) caught my eye. I love Sicilian Frappato wines and I knew it would be the light-style I desired. It's an organic wine, with bright red fruit flavors, enhanced by subtle spice notes, with good acidity. Food friendly and tasty.

There were two appetizer specials and we opted for both of them. The Grilled Peaches ($18) were presented with Speck and Whipped Ricotta, and topped by a drizzle of hot honey. A delightful blend of flavors and textures, from the lightly charred peaches to the salty speck, from the creamy ricotta to the slightly spicy and sweet honey. A fine summer dish.

The Striper Crudo ($18), served with crisp wonton chips, was another fine summer dish. The hearty amount of chunks of local striped bass were firm and fresh, with plenty of acidity, and were seasoned just right. The wonton chips were an excellent vehicle for the crudo.

The standout of the dinner was the local Striped Bass ($39), and as I mentioned earlier, it's probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. It was served with local, fresh corn, tomatoes, and potatoes. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a nice exterior sear, adding a fine crunch, and the interior was silky and moist, flavorful and a pure delight. The corn, tomatoes and potatoes added to the dish, including some sweetness and acidity, and the dish was a true taste of the summer. Highly recommended!

The Bucatini ($34), with foraged mushrooms, roasted garlic, white miso, and creamy burrata, is one of my favorite dishes on their regular menu. The pasta is made in-house, and has an excellent firm texture. The mushrooms and miso add some earthiness and plenty of umami, while the garlic adds a nice flavor. The creamy burrata adds a creamy texture to the dish, helping to balance the earthiness. A week balanced and delicious dish.

After dinner, I opted for a Black Manhattan ($17), one of their barrel aged cocktails, which is made with Bourbon and Cynar (an Italian Amaro). The bitterness of the Cynar helps to balance the sweetness of the Bourbon. A Tavola also offers other barrel aged cocktails, including Negroni, Tequila Manhattan, and Boulevardier.

And for dessert, I chose the Strawberry Shortcake ($14), with white cake and whipped cream. A tasty way to end the meal, with sweet strawberries, a light cake and creamy whipped cream.

I left the restaurant, fully sated, and pleased that Chef Joe's cuisine remains consistently excellent.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 09 Jul 2026 13:27:26 +0000

Revival Kitchen - Kimchi Sausage
Little Sage - Chicken & Rabe with Vinegar Sweet Peppers
Il Casale - Avellinese Sausage, Broccoli Rabe Marmellata, on Bao bun with Potato Sticks
Merai - Kapow Hot Dog
State Park - Texas Hot Links
Formaggio Kitchen - Boudin Noir
Puritan Oyster Bar - Bacon & Scallop Boudin Blanc
Amba - Harissa Lamb Sausage
Geppetto - Porchetta Style Provolone Brat

There will also be fruit mustards, herb mustards, pepper mustards, deli mustards, sweet mustards, Dijon & more presented by Mustard Maestro Ken Zuckerman! And beverage sampling from Widowmaker Brewery and Whistlepig Distillery, along with beer and cocktails featuring Bacardi & Patron to purchase.

The Cost is Adults $30 ($33.85 w processing fee) and Kids $10 ($12.51 w fee).

Tickets and Info can be found HERE.

2) Wednesday, July 15, marks National Hot Dog Day and the Silhouette Lounge will honor the occasion by serving up $1 hot dogs all day, from 4pm-1am, while supplies last. Limit of one $1 hot dog per person with the purchase of a beverage on July 15.

The Sil also is here to remind everyone about their once-in-a-lifetime offer: free links for ink. Here’s how it works: Get permanently tatted up – keep the body part PG-13 – with any Sil-related insignia (inspired by its logo, signature art like the winged rat, its namesake, etc.) and your indelible love will be rewarded with a free hot dog per visit for life. And these aren’t just any hot dogs, these are “Sil Dogs” – all-beef franks nestled in their buns served with packets of ketchup, mustard, and relish.

3) Also for National Hot Dog Day, Fuddruckers, in Reading, is offering $1 Hot Dogs all day on July 15th, while supplies last. This is for Dine In only, and you are limited to 3 hot dogs per transaction. This deal includes unlimited produce and condiments from their topping bar, but Specialty toppings cost extra.

Rant: Conduct Food & Drink Rituals

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 06 Jul 2026 06:30:00 +0000

A person selects a bottle of wine, and uses a corkscrew to open it. They then gently pour the wine into a decanter, allowing it to sit for a time. Once they pour their glass of wine, they swirl the wine in the glass and then smell it, assessing the aromas. Then, they take a small sip of the wine, swishing it around their mouth, inhaling a bit of air. Finally, they pour themselves a glass of the wine, ready to drink it and judge the quality of the wine.

Another person watches the above person open this wine, and when their own glass is poured, they immediately take a couple good gulps. If both people were asked to rate the wine, it's likely that the first person would rate the wine higher than the second person. Why? There can be a significant psychological reason for this difference, but not something most people consider.

This situation is illustrative of a greater principle, showcasing the power of ritual.

"Rituals have a surprising degree of influence over how people experience what comes next."

In the journal Psychological Science, Kathleen Vohs, Yajin Wang, Francesca Gino, and Michael I. Norton published the results of a study based on four experiments analyzing the effect of rituals on food and drink consumption. Their experiments involved items including chocolate, lemonade and carrots, though they believed their results extended to all types of food and drink.

They concluded that: "Rituals enhance consumption enjoyment due to the greater involvement they prompt in the experience." In addition, personal involvement in the specific ritual generally garners more enhanced pleasure than merely observing the ritual. That provides a fascinating insight into our eating and drinking habits, one which I believe has validity.

In my example at the top of the article, the first person conducted a ritual for opening and pouring their wine. This was their usual procedure for most any bottle of wine. And that ritual likely affected how they experienced the wine, tending to make them rate it higher than others. The second person didn't engage in any rituals, sipping gulping the wine in their glass. They weren't as involved in the process, and thus didn't engage in any rituals that might have enhanced their experience.

Taste does not contain only a sensory aspect. Part of our appreciation of the taste of food and drink is psychological. It's why eating and drinking with friends is usually better than doing it alone. It's why wine you drink on vacation can sometimes taste so much better than the same wine you later have at home. It seems logical then that rituals, which can build a deeper emotional connection, will make food and drink taste better. Such rituals involve you more closely to the entire experience, investing yourself deeper into everything. And rituals are often easy to do, requiring only a little time and effort.

What food and drink rituals do you perform? What is your favorite ritual?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 02 Jul 2026 16:06:44 +0000

Rant: Why Boston Restaurants Should Emulate Tokyo Restaurants

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 29 Jun 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Should Boston restaurants specialize more? Are Boston restaurant menus too large?

Let's begin with a couple interesting statistics and comparisons. In Boston, which has an approximate population of 674,000, there are about 4300 restaurants, which roughly works out to 1 restaurant per 156 people. In Tokyo, which has an approximate population of 14.2 Million, there are about 300,000 restaurants, which roughly works out to 1 restaurant per 47 people.

The culinary scene in Tokyo is renowned throughout the world. In Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture (2015) by Matt Goulding, he wrote: "There are a dozen factors that make Japanese food so special—ingredient obsession, technical precision, thousands of years of meticulous refinement—but chief among them is one simple concept: specialization." Matt got a bit more down to earth, adding "...in Japan, the secret to success is choosing one thing and doing it really fucking well." In Super Sushi Ramen Express (2016) by Michael Booth, he commented on Tokyo restaurants. "Many of them specialize in just one style of cooking, or even just one dish. And this is the key, I think, to the unparalleled wealth of Tokyo's dining scene."

Maybe this type of specialization would benefit Boston restaurants.

How many Boston restaurants specialize in one type of food, carrying only a very limited menu? Very few. Most have far larger menus, providing numerous choices so they will appeal to a broader audience. Consider the numerous Asian restaurants which offer Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and other Asian cuisines on a single menu. Do you actually receive the best food from such spots? Probably not. Do the restaurants employ true experts in all of those cuisines? Probably not. With such a huge menu, how can you be assured of the freshness of all of the ingredients? You probably can't. The food might be good, but it rarely excels.

Now, consider that 311 Omakase, which received Boston's only Michelin Star last year, is a more specialized restaurant, offering only an omakase experience of Japanese cuisine. And a number of the other Michelin recommended restaurants in Boston also tend to be more specialized, at least concentrating on a single type of cuisine, from Korean to Thai.

Why do so few Boston area restaurants specialize? I think the primary reason has to do with the average restaurant goer who feels entitled that they should be able to get almost anything they want at any restaurant. Rather than enjoying what is offered on the menu, some complain about what isn't there. And that outcry has caused some restaurants to give in to their demands, expanding their menu to include items that might have been outside of their original concept.

It's a tough position for restaurants. I'm sure some would love to specialize, to have a more limited menu but financially that can be very difficult. Yet with a more limited menu, the quality of what was offered could potentially be increased. Those chefs could excel at what they produce, creating an even better product. However, the main problem becomes trying to transform the customer base to be more accepting of such limited menus. Customers need to be convinced that higher quality food, from more specialized restaurants, needs their support and patronage.

We must throw our support to these brave restaurants which take the risk to be more specialized. We need to convince our fellow diners that they too should support such restaurants. People have to stop thinking that a restaurant menu must cater to every customer's desires. A restaurant serving multiple different cuisines can't possibly provide top quality food for their entire voluminous menu. Customers must accept a restaurant menu's limitations, and savor what is available.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 25 Jun 2026 15:14:59 +0000

Fried Chicken Street Vendors in Boston

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 23 Jun 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Imagine you're walking down a street in downtown Boston, and you see a man on the corner, a street vendor, holding a basket full of fried chicken. Would you purchase a piece?

Over 100 years ago, that was an actual option!

The Boston Globe, February 9, 1908, published a lengthy article about "street lunch men," who sold hot dogs, chestnuts, fried smelts, and fried chicken. These vendors did a good business because the service was very quick, much faster than dining at a restaurant, and the food was very inexpensive. So, there were plenty of street vendors, competing for the many customers.

However, a few weeks prior to this article, the city of Boston instituted a new law where these numerous vendors had to obtain a license, and pay a $5 fee, to sell food on the streets. In addition, their sales were now being restricted to specific streets. This drastically reduced the number of street vendors, although the numbers might have increased after a time, when they realized the fee was relatively small, compared to their potential profits.

These street vendors could make a significant profit, from 100-300%, depending on the specific night and the specific product. For example, it was estimated that it cost a hot dog vendor about 20 cents to buy 18 raw hot dogs (one pound) and rolls, but that the vendor could sell each dog for 5 cents, generating sales of 90 cents, making a profit of 70 cents. A good hot dog vendor could thus make $35-$45 a week (about $1200-$1600 in today's dollars). The roast chestnut vendors could make even more money, from $40-$90 a week!

The article continued, "A choice delicacy of the curb lunch is fried chicken. It is the top liner, too, as to price, commanding double and in some instances, triple the rate of the more plebeian edibles of the street." Nowadays, hot dog and sausage carts are popular on the streets of Boston, but have you ever seen a fried chicken cart? Sure, there are food trucks that sell fried chicken, but what about small carts? Or even just a man carrying a basket of fried chicken? There are plenty of hot dog and sausage carts near Fenway Park, but I've never seen a fried chicken cart or basket there.

Back around 1908, nearly all of the fried chicken vendors were black men, and they had to pay the $5 fee for a license to sell. Unlike the hot dog vendors, the fried chicken vendors generally didn't limit themselves to any particular curb spot, but kept on the move, following where the customers might be. "Garbed in a short coat and long apron of white, and carrying on one arm a capacious basket, in which is his supply of chicken, he flits about from place to place on those downtown streets of the city...." Rather than have a stall or cart, they simply carried their chicken in a basket, allowing them to easily travel around with their food for sale.

What were the economics of this business? The article writer spoke to one of the chicken vendors, learning the fascinating details. The vendor had started the night having first purchased 50 chickens, totaling 135 pounds, at ten cents a pound, making his total cost $13.50. Each chicken could then be cut into six pieces, making a total of 300 pieces, and once fried, each piece would sell for 10 cents. That generated total sales of $30.00, making a profit of $16.50. And it only took that vendor two hours to sell out of his chicken. A fried chicken vendor could make as much, if not more, than a roast chestnut vendor.

Unfortunately, the article didn't describe how the fried chicken was prepared. It seems likely that the vendor fried the chicken at his home, but did he do the actual frying, or did some other member of his family, such as his wife, fry the chicken, or at least assist in its preparation? In addition, how long did it take to prepare all that chicken, such as frying 300 pieces? Plus, were the various vendors using different recipes to make their fried chicken, and thus were certain vendors considered to be superior due to their recipe?

The photo at the top of this article is of John B. Campbell, who lived in the West End, and who was known as "the original fried chicken man of Boston." He was the first fried chicken vendor in Boston, and had been working as such in the West End for several years. "He was patronized quite largely by actors and actresses from the vaudeville houses and popular-priced theatres who stop at West End hotels during their engagements here and take a piece or two of his fried chicken with them to their rooms for lunch."

Unfortunately, I've been unable to locate any more information about John Campbell, although I suspect his story would be quite fascinating. What led him to become a fried chicken vendor? How long, after 1908, did he continue to sell fried chicken? Did he assist the other fried chicken vendors, or were they viewed as competition? Did his family get involved in the business? So many answered questions.

Today, it probably would be impossible for any street vendor to obtain a license, especially because of hygiene restrictions, to sell fried chicken out of a basket on the streets of Boston. However, it's an intriguing piece of Boston history as well as local black history.

Rant: Touch Your Food & Enjoy It More

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 06:30:00 +0000

I don't believe it's a coincidence that some of our favorite foods, from burgers to hot dogs, lobster rolls to tacos, pizza to French fries, are held in our hands as we eat them. With summer here, we will likely enjoy more of these such foods.

When we pick up these foods with our hands and bite into them, this creates a greater connection between us and our food. There isn't an intermediary of metal, wood or plastic utensils which might interfere with our enjoyment of these foods. Although of course there are some people who do eat such foods with a knife and fork. This may create a disconnect between them and that food.

This is all a psychological issue, and one which most people don't even think about except on an unconscious level. They understand the enjoyment of these foods and can describe in the detail many of the reasons for such, except they will rarely mention that part of the reason, and probably an important element, is that they can touch the food.

Eating with your hands can even lead to you licking your fingers, savoring the sauce, condiments, cheese, frosting, and other items that might accumulate on your skin. There's a greater intimacy involved in eating food with your hands, one which we appreciate though usually on a deeper level. Yes, you can enjoy food which you eat with a knife and fork, but there is something more satisfyingly primal with being able to use your hands.

What may make us think more closely about this issue is when we are confronted with a situation outside of the norm, when we are unable to eat a certain item with our hands that usually we should be able to do so. For example, if you order a warm buttered lobster roll, but the roll falls apart, making it almost impossible to eat it as a sandwich. Or if you order a burger, with lots of extra ingredients, but it's too large, too thick for you to bite, or too messy to eat with your hands. There's a real sense of disappointment with these food fails, as you actually wanted to eat them with your hands but were thwarted in doing so.

You lose part of the essential aspect of the dish, the direct connection of flesh to food. I'm not sure all restaurants understand how certain foods should not require utensils to enjoy, that part of the allure is being able to hold them in your hands as you eat them. Do your own test at home. Try eating some foods with your hands and then try eating that same food with utensils. And I bet, if you're being honest, you will notice a difference and prefer using just your hands.

And of course, there are plenty of foods which are not meant to be eaten with your hands. You can't eat soup with your hands. Sometimes you need a knife to cut your steak. But, if you can eat something with your hands, then do so.

Touch your food and enjoy it more!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 06:30:00 +0000

“Father’s Day is all about celebrating the dads and father figures who make life sweeter, and we’re excited to do that in true Kane’s fashion,” said Maria Delios, Co-Owner of Kane’s Donuts. “Partnering with Vitamin Sea Brewing brings together two local favorites for a fun, limited-edition donut perfect for the holiday.”

“Partnering with Kane’s Donuts for Father’s Day was a natural fit,” said Dino Funari, Co-Founder of Vitamin Sea Brewing. “They’re a beloved local brand with an incredible following, and we loved the idea of creating something fun, seasonal, and unexpected for dads to enjoy.”

The Vitamin Sea Summer Donut will be available in limited quantities at all three Kane’s locations.

Rant: Eliminate Cuisine Stereotypes!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 15 Jun 2026 07:00:00 +0000

I don't like sushi because I hate raw fish!

We probably all know people who have made a statement like that, or something similar such as "I don't like Thai food because it's too spicy" or "I don't like Indian cuisine because I hate curry." Maybe some of you even have made such statements yourself. Yet are those statements truly accurate, or do they evidence a lack of knowledge about those cuisines? Are these people perpetuating stereotypes about these cuisines? Would these people actually enjoy aspects of these cuisines if they truly understood the cuisine and were willing to take a chance on it?

For example, the above photo depicts three different types of sushi, specifically maki rolls. Not one of those rolls contains raw fish. In fact, only one of them even has cooked seafood, the Shrimp Tempura Maki. The other two rolls are Sweet Potato Tempura and Chicken Tempura. There are plenty of other sushi options that don't include raw fish, so you shouldn't stereotype it as only consisting of raw fish.

Many people refer to Indian or Thai cuisine as if it were a single, monolithic cuisine. They fail to realize that most, if not all, national cuisines actually consist of numerous regional cuisines, and those can vary quite widely from each other. There is not a unified Indian or Thai cuisine. There is also not a unified Italian or Mexican cuisine. Rather, they all are a plethora of regional cuisines. Not all Indian cuisines and dishes use curry and not all Thai dishes are spicy.

This came to my mind again for me while I was reading Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine One Plate at a Time (2013) by Adrian Miller. There was a passage, "Americans tend to identify immigrant cuisines more by ethnicity, nationality, and race than by place. We use the terms “Chinese food” and “Italian food” instead of “Cantonese Province food” or “Southern Italy food.”

You must open up your mind and broaden your culinary knowledge. It's an easy solution, to educate yourself so you don't stereotype any cuisine. If you dislike raw fish, go to a sushi restaurant and ask what sushi doesn't include raw fish. If you dislike curry, check out an Indian restaurant and let them explain all of the dishes that don't use curry. If you dislike spicy Thai, check out a Thai restaurant and find out all the non-spicy dishes they carry. You will probably be surprised by all the choices you actually have, despite your dislike of one element of their cuisine. You might even find some new favorite dishes.

Though you might think your stereotype only affects you, that's not always the case. You might be part of a group of family or friends trying to decide on which restaurant to go. You might nix the idea of attending a certain restaurant because of your stereotype, thus denying everyone else the chance to dine there. Is that really fair? No, I don't think so. In addition, such stereotypes can hurt those restaurants, and the restaurant industry already has plenty of obstacles. Your stereotypes can reinforce the stereotypes of others, preventing even more people from dining at certain places.

Learn about those cuisines you think you hate, and maybe you will realize they are far more diverse than you realize.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 07:00:00 +0000