The Passionate Foodie

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 01 Oct 2026 13:18:42 +0000

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Salt & Straw’s Halloween Series is back, bringing five spooky, candy filled flavors to scoop shops nationwide. Available through November 1, this year’s lineup leans into the playful side of Halloween, finding inspiration in everything from a trick or treater’s dream candy stash, to edible chocolate-covered creepy crawlers and nostalgic confections.

Additionally, on October 30 and 31, guests who trick or treat at Salt & Straw can also dress up their scoop with a free Halloween upgrade featuring black and orange sprinkles, whipped cream and a sugar cone, plus a limited edition sticker designed by Portland artist Mike Bennett, available while supplies last.

Flavors in The Halloween Series include:
The Great Candycopia – A trick or treater’s bag of chocolate candies including Crunch Bars, Reese’s, Snickers and Heath dumped into salted butterscotch ice cream, with chocolate feuilletine, peanut butter and BOOrbon vanilla toffee throughout.
Jack O’Lantern Pumpkin Bread – Pumpkin spiced ice cream with hunks of pumpkin bread and generous ribbons of whipped cream cheese frosting.
Witch’s Brew Fruit Punch Sherbet – A refreshing fruit punch sherbet bursting with orange flavored candy and finished with ribbons of sour candy apple.
Creepy Crawly Critters – Sweet green matcha ice cream scattered with candy coated chocolate crickets and toffee brittle mealworms, made in collaboration with Don Bugito. (Yes! There are real insects!)
Chocolate Graveyard Cookie Crumble (v) – Dairy free black cocoa coconut cream with black cocoa cookie crumbles and crimson swirls of vegan white chocolate frosting.

2) During the entire month of October, Maple & Ash in the Seaport will feature a cocktail with a cause for Breast Cancer Awareness Month: Second Chances with Grey Goose, housemade fig vermouth, spiced pear, cranberry-apple, and citrus. The cocktail costs $20 and with each purchased, Maple & Ash will donate $2 to The Ellie Fund in collaboration with Bacardi Limited.

3) Croatian Premium Wine Imports has announced their next Masterclass, focused on the region of Istria, on Tuesday, October 27 at 8 pm Eastern/5 pm Pacific. The class will start with an intro to Croatian regions and then focus on Istrian regions and winemaking as well as taste four wines: two whites – a Malvasia and a blend with Malvasia, followed by two reds – a coastal Teran as well as a Teran from Motovun, which have very different expressions.

No purchase is necessary. If you register HERE you will get a link to the Zoom video call, where they always take Q&As, or if you cannot join them, they will also send registrants the recording and slides.

If you want to taste the wines along with them during the Zoom, they are offering these four wines as an Istrian Masterclass Bundle at a 15% discount. East Coasters should order by October 15 to make sure they receive the wines in time for the Masterclass. The bundle includes:
Damjanic Malvazija
Franković Filiam Blend
Ritoša Teran
Fakin Teran

I've been to the Istria region, and loved their wines. Many people may know about the Dalmatia region, which is the most popular tourist destination in Croatia, but Istria is very worthy of your attention.

Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi: An Intriguing Sake Made with Marigold Yeast

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 29 Sep 2026 13:33:08 +0000

Most Sake is produced using Sake yeast, and there are a variety of commercial yeasts available, and each type has a specific profile. Other breweries may use native yeasts, although that's a riskier proposition, but can also create more unique aromas and flavors. And still other breweries have adopted the use of flower yeasts, derived from a variety of flowers and fruits. You can find flower yeasts from sunflowers, begonia, rhododendron, bananas, strawberries, apples, and more. New flower yeasts also continue to be produced.

The Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi ($36.95) is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose. The Amabuki Shuzo was founded in 1688, making it almost 340 years old, in the Saga Prefecture, which is located in the northern section of Kyushu Island. The brewery acquired its name from Mt. Amabuki, part of the Sefuri mountain range. The brewery's motto is "Onko Sousei," which means, “we learn from the past and create new and better things.” They also state, "We brew sake that makes you relax and enjoy your precious time."

The brewery also uses a variety of flower yeasts to make their Sake more unique, including strawberry yeast, banana yeast, sunflower yeast, begonia yeast, and more. This particular Sake was brewed with Marigold Yeast, providing some subtle elements of marigold in the aroma and flavors, which the brewery states includes "the sophisticated fragrance and robust flavor of marigold" which is presented well in warmed sake. In Japan, marigolds symbolize jealousy, despair, grief and sadness, although it can also symbolize passion and creativity.

The Sake was made from 100% Omachi rice, a pure rice strain which was discovered in 1859, and tends to make Sake which is more earthy and herbal, with high acidity. The rice has been polished down to 65%. As a Junmai, the Sake is made with only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin mold. As it is a Yamahai, it's made with an older method of production, using natural lactic acid in the air rather than adding commercial lactic acid. This tends to enhance the umami of the Sake, but is a riskier method of production.

The Amabuki only has a 15% ABV, and is also gluten-free, with no preservatives or additives. This is a Sake that can be served chilled, but is said to be especially good if served gently warmed or hot, which enhances the effects of the marigold yeast. On the nose, this Sake presents mild floral notes, with an underlying earthiness. On the palate, it's light to medium-bodied, with a complex blend of flavors, including plenty of umami notes, a subtle floral aspect, an earthy backbone, and hints of nuts. Good acidity and a lingering finish. Delicious and intriguing.

Suggested food pairings include grilled chicken and mushroom dishes, and I'm sure the umami element of the Sake would go great with mushrooms and truffles, as well as Italian dishes, especially made with tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Any food that possesses umami would probably also go well with this Sake.

I recommend the Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi, and it's a very good example of the impact of flower yeast on Sake, creating unique aromas and flavors, going beyond the usual commercial yeasts. Taste something different!

Rant: Don't Be A Cheapskate With Holiday Wines

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 28 Sep 2026 14:28:42 +0000

The holiday season nears, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other upcoming holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice for purchasing wines throughout this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate!

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone.

Please don't do it!

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way.

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you're providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort and money will elevate your party and bring more pleasure to your family, friends, and other guests. Isn't the holiday season the time to splurge a little more?

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano. I can help you impress your guests.

In addition, most wine stores offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines.

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009. It's an important enough issue to raise it once again.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 24 Sep 2026 12:41:46 +0000

1) For four decades, the National Mustard Museum has been sharing the history, humor, culture and downright magic of the "King of Condiments" with visitors from around the world. What began with Barry Levenson’s mustard collection has grown into a one-of-a-kind nonprofit museum dedicated to preserving an extraordinary collection and educating generations of mustard lovers.

As they celebrate this incredible milestone, they’re asking their friends, fans and fellow mustard enthusiasts to consider a $40 donation in honor of their 40th anniversary. Your donation helps keep the collection, education and magic of the King of Condiments alive for the next 40 years and beyond. Their goal is $10,000, and they are getting close to nearly half that goal, so they need more donors to help them out.

The National Mustard Museum is a nonprofit organization funded by donations from generous supporters like you. The museum does not receive profits from the gift shop. That means every donation makes a direct difference in helping us preserve this unique piece of culinary history and continue our mission for years to come. Forty years. Thousands of mustards. Countless visitors. One very special museum.

Whether you’ve visited them in person, fallen down the mustard rabbit hole online, attended National Mustard Day, or simply love what they do, they hope you’ll help them mark this momentous anniversary!

As a token of our appreciation, for the $40 donation you receive:
MFA Diploma (Master of Fine Accoutrements)
Commemorative sticker and a magnet
Name on their digital wall & museum wall

For the $400 donation you receive:
Gift Box of the Curator's favorites
Name on both walls

To Donate, please go HERE.

2) Are you a mustard lover? Are you intrigued about the history of mustard and its myriad of styles and flavors? Would you like to learn much more about mustard?

Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," will be teaching a one-night course, "Wurst Sausages & Best Mustards," through Arlington Community Education on Wednesday, October 21, from 6:30pm-8pm. Ken is the Head of Marketing for a local artisanal food distributor and a passionate devotee of all things vinegary & fermented. He's also on the board of the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, which sports a collection of over 6800 mustards, and which for the past 30+ years has conducted the Worldwide Mustard Competition featuring 500 entries facing off in 19 different categories.

The description of the class: "When attending a major sporting event or Oktoberfest, the aroma of sausages and hot dogs fills the air, accompanied by their essential partner: mustard. This tasting explores what makes a great condiment pairing, featuring award winners from the National Mustard Museum’s annual Worldwide Mustard Competition. Sample 12 domestic and imported mustards, from classic yellow to spicy brown and deli-style to bratwurst blends, paired with iconic New England hot dogs, sausages, and brats."

The cost of the class is $49 per person. To register for the class, go HERE.

3) Beginning this Saturday, September 26, AVRA Estiatorio will introduce weekend brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at its Back Bay location within the Lyrik Back Bay complex at 400 Newbury Street.

AVRA’s new brunch combines classic brunch favorites with the restaurant’s signature Mediterranean cuisine. Guests can choose from an à la carte selection of brunch favorites, including French toast with berries and cream cheese frosting ($21); eggs any style with home fries and bacon ($21); the AVRA omelette with Boursin cheese and baby spinach ($22); a Nova smoked salmon platter ($24); and a warm, butter-poached lobster roll served on brioche (MKT). A Bloody Mary bar cart will also circulate table-to-table.

For those looking to experience the flavors of AVRA, a three-course prix fixe menu ($41.95 per person) offers a selection of Mediterranean and Greek favorites. Starters include Greek salad, traditional Greek spreads, grilled calamari, and tuna or salmon tartare. Main courses include chicken paillard, charcoal grilled Mediterranean sea bass, and grilled salmon, followed by desserts including baklava, orange cake or fresh fruit. AVRA’s extensive all-day menu will also be available à la carte.

Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo: Mushroom Sake!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 22 Sep 2026 19:02:08 +0000

"Kinoko" is the Japanese term for "mushroom" and the above pictured Sake was specifically produced to pair very well with mushroom dishes. No mushrooms were used in the brewing of the Sake, but its prominent umami creates a synergistic effect with the natural umami of mushrooms, intensifying the overall taste.

The Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo ($39.95), a limited edition, is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and it intrigued me from the start. I bought a bottle, knowing I would soon be enjoying a Japanese stir-fry with steak and mushrooms, and wanting to experience this umami pairing. And it was amazing, a stellar pairing that elevated both the food and Sake.

The Suwa Shuzo, founded in 1859, was named after the local Shinto Suwa-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Suwa-no-Kami, a kami of valor and duty. The brewery is located in Chizu Town, in the Tottori Prefecture, which is a small town of only about 7,000 people and most of Chizu Town is covered by mountain forests.

The President of the brewery is Masahiko Touda, who has a passion for foraging and studying mushrooms, a "self-proclaimed fungi investigator," so the Kinoko Sake was a personal project for him. There is some conflicting information, noting that Touda is the brewery's Toji, master brewer, but other sources note that the Toji is Hakuma Kyoji. It seems clear that Touda was a Toji, for some period of time, and during that period created the Kinoko. He might have chosen to retire as Toji recently, and now Kyoji is the Toji.

The Sake was made from 100% local Tamasakae rice, a rare variety, first developed in 1954, which is mostly grown in the Shiga and Tottori Prefectures. This rice is known for producing rich, full-bodied, and savory Sake, with a prominent umami. As a Junmai Ginjo, the rice for the Kinoko needs to be polished down to at least 60%, but the brewery polishes it down to 50%, which is what Daiginjo is polished down to. However, the brewery chose not to make the Kinoko a Daiginjo. In addition, during production, they use a higher ratio of koji rice, intended to bring out notes of smoke, honey, and soy.

The Kinoko only has a 15% ABV, and is also vegan and gluten-free. This is also a Sake that can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, each temperature providing a different experience, emphasizing different elements of the Sake. The Kinoko possesses an intriguing nose of earthy elements, akin to mushrooms, as well as subtle hints of chocolate and caramel, although without any sweetness. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, rich and savory, with a dominant sense of umami, and a complex melange of subtle flavors, from cocoa to citrus. Excellent acidity and a lengthy, smooth and satisfying finish.

The stir fry, with its beech and shiitake mushrooms, and shaved steak, was an excellent pairing with the Kinoko Sake. The umami elements were enhanced, and it was such a satisfying taste. Touda-San definitely accomplished his objective, creating a Sake that kills it paired with mushrooms. This Sake would also be a great pairing with truffles, which also possess their own significant umami nature. I would also recommend this Sake for pairing with certain Italian cuisine, and not just those dishes with mushrooms. Ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese are rich in umami, and this Sake would intensify those tastes too. A mushroom pizza and the Kinoko would be a fine combination.

I highly recommend the Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo, and it's a very good example of how Sake pairs well with a wide variety of cuisines.

Celebrate International Plavac Mali Day!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 21 Sep 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Today is International Plavac Mali Day!

Five years ago, in 2021, the Croatian Wine Alliance, a group of global teams promoting Croatian wines led by the US-based duo, Aroma Wine Co., and Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., made September 21 to be International Plavac Mali Day. This collaboration is a public and private partnership among organizations from the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and Croatia – all dedicated to telling the many stories of this indigenous and predominant Croatian red variety.

Plavac Mali is a descendant of Zinfandel (aka Tribidrag or Crljenak kaštelanski) creating a natural hybrid with another indigenous variety, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces several styles of wines, from medium-bodied and easy-drinking, to elegant and robust wines. The aromas in Plavac mali are predominantly dark berries and Mediterranean herbs with expressive tannins, and mineral on the palate. Plavac Mali means ‘little blue’, referring to its appearance, small and dark blue berries.

I've twice visited Croatia, and written over 85 articles about my experiences in that beautiful and wondrous country, as well as Croatian wine experiences I've had locally. I learned much about Plavac Mali, having visited numerous vineyards and wineries, and tasted a variety of the wines. That diversity is compelling, as you can enjoy fresh and light Plavac Mali wines, as well as heavier, more robust wines that will age very well. So, you can enjoy Plavac Mali with a wide assortment of foods, just dependent on which style you prefer. If you enjoy red wine, you should experience the pleasures of Plavac Mali.

My article, Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali, provides more information about Plavac Mali, its origins, as well as the efforts to study and research this fascinating grape. In some respects, and despite the long history of Plavac Mali, there is still much to learn about this grape, and that that times, research and experimentation. As I said in that article, "This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world."

If you're interested in trying some Plavac Mali, Croatian Premium Wine Imports is offering a special Plavac Mali bundle, which includes 3 different Plavac Mali wines with a 15% discount. If you just want a single bottle of Plavac Mali, they offer over 20 different wines, and my personal favorites are from the Volarević winery.

How will you celebrate International Plavac Mali Wine Day?

National Monte Cristo Day: The Origins of This Delicious Sandwich

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 17 Sep 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Happy National Monte Cristo Day!

For over 100 years, the Monte Cristo has existed although the exact date of its invention is unknown. The sandwich holiday was established in 2015, by the Bennigan’s restaurant chain, to honor their own Monte Cristo sandwich, which is made with honey wheat bread, ham, roasted turkey, Swiss and American cheeses before it's batter-dipped, gently fried, and dusted with powdered sugar. It's also served with red raspberry preserves, if you wish to dip it.

A Monte Cristo sandwich is essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, it might be served with maple syrup, and so on.

I've long been fond of the Monte Cristo, although I prefer it as a savory variation. I don't want it covered by powdered sugar or syrup. What makes it special to me is the French toast bread, a great vehicle for the ham, turkey and cheese, but which also would make an excellent vehicle for plenty of other fillings as well. I enjoyed such variations as pastrami and cheese, chicken cutlets, and cheeseburger, each of which was elevated by the use of French toast. We need more sandwiches with French Toast as the bread!

No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it's believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, with numerous variations, that was likely invented in the late nineteenth century. Literally translated, "croque monsieur" basically means "mister crunch." The sandwich became famous when it appeared at a French cafe, Le Bel Âge, owned by Michel Lunarca, in Paris around 1910.

However, the croque-monsieur received almost no publicity in U.S. newspapers until about 1928, years after the Monte Cristo was created. The earliest reference I found to the croque-monsieur was in the Boston Evening Transcript (MA), April 11, 1908. There was an article about a lunch at a Paris restaurant, and one of the offerings was a croque-monsieur, for 50 cents, and the article noted, "We have no idea what croque monsieur or Orloff veal might be,..."

The next reference was from The Reading Eagle (PA), August 29, 1915, which discussed local women contributing recipes to a cookbook intended to help Belgian war sufferers. One contributor provided a recipe for croque-monsieur. And then there no other newspaper references until 1928.

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Although most sources allege the Monte Cristo was created during the 1920s, it seems more probable it was created during the 1910s, and maybe the later half of that decade. The earliest reference I found to this sandwich was in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1920, which printed a restaurant advertisement for Tait’s Downtown. The large ad detailed a Special After-Theater Supper, and listed numerous dishes of which you could choose two. Under Sandwiches, there was a mention of the Monte Cristo, although no explanation was given.

It also seems probable that the Monte Cristo originated in California, as all of the mentions of the sandwich during the 1920s and early 1930s indicated it was available in California, and there weren't any references to it being available elsewhere. A Hawaiian newspaper in 1929 provided a recipe for the Monte Cristo, but didn't indicate that any Hawaiian restaurants offered the sandwich. It's curious that no one has ever stepped forward to claim credit for inventing the sandwich.

The Los Angeles Times (CA), May 24, 1924 and Sacramento Union (CA), June 6, 1924, both printed the same recipe for the Monte Cristo Sandwich, the first newspapers to do so. The sandwiches contained only American full cream choice and slices of boiled ham, and not any turkey. The sandwiches though were dipped in egg and fried.

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 11, 1927, published a restaurant ad which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents, the same price as their Chicken Sandwich.

A reader submitted a recipe for the Monte Cristo sandwich to the San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 23, 1927. This recipe was different from the previous one, using pimento cheese with boiled ham. In addition, it called for a tablespoon of cocktail sauce. It too was dipped in beaten egg and fried.

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 27, 1927, provided another recipe, and also stated that the Monte Cristo was a “tearoom specialty.” This is the first recipe to use Swiss cheese with the boiled ham, although still no turkey.

The San Antonio Light (TX), October 18, 1928, Omaha Morning Bee-News (NE), October 19, 1928, and El Paso Times (TX), October 20, 1928, all briefly mentioned, “Snapshots of Hollywood collected at random: Seena Owen and Mae Sunday gossiping over a Monte Cristo sandwich at the Montmartre café.”

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), February 8, 1929, printed another recipe, called for a specific bread, the Langendorf Royal bread, a famous bread brand at that time. This recipe called for cream cheese, mashed with a little cream. It also asked for a slice of chicken or ham. Then, it's mentioned that it should be served with jelly or relish, the first time this addition is noted.

The Los Angeles Times (CA), August 9, 1929, provided a recipe almost exactly as they previously did on May 24, 1924, except this time they mentioned garnishing it with pickle slices.

The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 29, 1929, was the first non-California newspaper to provide a Monte Cristo recipe, but this was simply a copy of the one above from the Los Angeles Times.

The San Jose Evening News (CA), May 5, 1930, had an advertisement for a Coffee Shop with a partial menu, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents.

It wasn't until 1934, that it seems likely the Monte Cristo started being available outside of California. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 3, 1934, printed a recipe for the sandwich, provided by Chef Harry Micas. It was noted to be "an unusual sandwich," good for lunch or a midnight feast. First, the bread was covered in egg with milk or cream, and then fried. After that, the bread was topped with boiled ham, chicken meat and a slice of cheese. Finally, it was toasted under a broiler, and served with spiced apricot. This may be the first recipe calling for both ham and chicken (but not turkey). It's also the first that calls for milk or cream added to the egg before coating the bread.

The Des Moines Tribune (IA), December 22, 1934, in an ad for Harvest Bread, provided a recipe from Herman, the Health Chef. The recipe called for Swiss cheese and slices of Baked Virginia ham, but no poultry. The sandwich was also to be dipped in beaten egg, "similar to the method of making French toast." Curiously, the sandwich was served with tomato sauce, which is definitely a rarity for this sandwich.

The Los Angeles Times (CA), January 29, 1935, offered a recipe calling for Tillamook cheese and boiled ham. No poultry was included.

The San Diego Union (CA), March 19, 1936, published a recipe which called for boiled ham, sliced chicken and Kraft's American cheese. It also called for Nuco, "for spreading," although I'm unable to determine what that was. It also called for Snowdrift, "for deep frying," and that was a vegetable shortening commonly used for frying.

A brief mention in the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 7, 1936, noted, “Peter Lorre favors the Monte Cristo sandwich as an article of diet,..” Peter Lorre was a famous actor, having appeared in some classics such as Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon.

The Oakland Tribune (CA), September 20, 1936, discussed an upcoming Tribune Homemakers Forum, where Chef “Joe” Beyl of the Athens Club, would "present three of his most popular recipes for the late-supper menus: Lobster Thermidore, Monte Cristo Sandwich and Tomato Stuffed with Tuna.”

The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (1937) by John Sexton & Co., printed a recipe, by Frank Hurliman, for the Monte Cristo Sandwich. It only called for ham and cheese, with the addition of tomato, which was maybe the first such addition.

The Modesto Bee (CA), February 2, 1937, had its own recipe, and called for three slices of bread, making it more like a club sandwich. It called for boiled ham and cheese, as well as chicken, lamb, pork or turkey. The sandwich was then dipped in a blend of egg, salt, pepper, and milk before it was fried. This may be the first mention of the use of turkey for this sandwich.

The Highland Park News-Herald (CA), March 26, 1937, also had a recipe calling for three slices of bread, but it only called for cheese and Hormel's spiced luncheon meat. It was also served with Iris Currant jelly.

The Los Angeles Times (CA), November 25, 1937, also called for three slices of bread, with a layer of ham, topped with mustard, and a layer of turkey with mayonnaise. Curiously, the recipe didn't call for any cheese.

There was an interesting article in a London newspaper, dealing with a Monte Cristo sandwich served at the Warner's Bros film studio. The Daily Mirror (London), May 3, 1938, had a Hollywood page where the writer mentioned, “I often go to lunch at Warners,…because there is something on the menu there which I have never met anywhere else. It is called a Monte Cristo sandwich and it is no doubt very fattening and indigestible. But I keep on ordering it because I can never quite figure out how it’s made. It seems to be thin bread fried in a cheesy batter with thin slices of chicken and ham between. It is served on lettuce with a pickled peach and it is better and more elusive than it sounds.”

In a follow-up, The Daily Mirror (London), July 6, 1938, noted that Miss Gail Patrick, a famous actress who married the manager of the Brown Derby restaurant, had written down many of their best recipes. She provided the writer with their recipe for a Monte Cristo sandwich, which called for three slices of bread, ham, chicken and cheese. The sandwich pieces were set upon crisp lettuce, and a pickled peach was placed into the middle of the plate.

The Modesto Bee (CA), December 17, 1938, ran an ad for the Schurra’s restaurant, which stated, “Try Our Monte Cristo Sandwich. Something New and Different.”

The Standard Star (NY), September 29, 1939, provided advice for visitors to Holloywood, including, “Food: One of the first things you have when in California is a Monte Cristo sandwich. It is delicious and substantial, I might add. It is a club sandwich affair which has sliced chicken, a layer of melted cheese and then one of ham. The concoction is then dipped in an egg batter and fried in a deep fat. The results are very tasty.”

The St. Joseph Gazette (MO), February 12, 1941, published an ad for a hotel, which offered “Ladies’ Lunches” and their special that day was “Hot Monte Cristo Sandwich, vegetable, potatoes, salad, dessert, beverage” for 45 cents.

The Nevada State Journal (NV), September 17, 1942, ran an ad for a club which served supper snacks from 10:30pm to closing, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 75 cents.

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), January 18, 1948, published an ad for the Pago Pago restaurant, which had late evening specialties, including “The Monte Cristo Sandwich.”

The Minneapolis Star (MN), November 17, 1948, mentioned that local chef, Dale Kirkpatrick, named the Monte Cristo as his favorite. His recipe then called for only two slices of bread, with ham, cheese, and chicken or turkey. It was served with sweet pickle relish and potato chips.

Monte Cristo sandwiches in Australia! Maybe the first newspaper mention of this sandwich in Australia was in The Mercury (Tasmania, Australia), June 2, 1949, which had this brief recipe, calling only for ham and cheese.

The Galveston Daily News (TX), October 9, 1949, ran a restaurant ad, which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich, Olives, Sliced Tomato, and Potato Chips, for $1.

Over the next decades, the Monte Cristo's popularity would continue to grow, although currently, the sandwich has decreased in popularity and much fewer restaurants offer it on their menus. It's time for the sandwich to make a come-back, was well as for other sandwiches to use French Toast as their bread.

As I've shown, the Monte Cristo likely originated in California during the 1910s, and it seems to have taken about 15 years for the sandwich to be created in restaurants in other states. However, recipes to make the Monte Cristo were presented in a number of newspapers across the country for home cooks to try. We also see that the nature of the sandwich varied over the years, and continues to come in a number of variations. We may never know exactly who invented the sandwich, but we owe that person a debt for creating such a delicious sandwich.

Murray's Tavern: Croatian Wine Dinner

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 15 Sep 2026 14:51:50 +0000

Superb seafood and lamb, delicious and intriguing Croation wines. It was quite an event, and the attendees all seemed to thoroughly enjoy the wine dinner.

Recently, I was invited as a media guest to attend a Croatian Wine Dinner at Murray's Tavern in Revere. Owned and operated by brothers John and Greg Murray, the restaurant was established in May 2021, over five years ago. Their menu serves elevated classics, and is diverse and interesting, with some of their dishes include Spanish Octopus, Chicken Parmigiana Eggrolls, Irish Beef Stew, Chicken Schnitzel Piccata, Bolognese, Shrimp Scampi, and Skillet Mac and Cheese. They have a full liquor license and serve many local beers and their own inventive cocktails. It's a homey, neighborhood spot, a place for dinner for family and friends.

John Murray was one of the hosts of the dinner, and he's very personable and clearly has a true passion for wine and food.

Two of the other hosts were Mirena Bagur and Win Burke, the owners of Croatian Premium Wine Imports. For over five years, they have been importing over 100 Croatian wines into the U.S., and promoting Croatian wines all across the country. Through their website, you can get their wines delivered to most places across the country. I've known them since 2019, and they have become good friends.

I'm also an ardent fan of Croatian wines, and have traveled to Croatia twice with Mirena and Win, having visited about 35 wineries, and tasted over 600 Croatian wines. Croatia produces plenty of excellent wines, of all different types, including Whites, Reds, Sparkling, Rosé, and Orange Wines. You can check out my 85+ articles about Croatia in my compilation post, All About Croatia. Those articles cover a range of topics from Croatian cuisine to the history of Croatia, from wine reviews to winery visits. If you haven't tried Croatian wines, you should seek them out.

The guest chef for the wine dinner was Chef Johnny Sheehan, pictured above, whose primary restaurant is now at the Porto restaurant. Sheehan started working in restaurants at age 14, starting by washing dishes. He eventually graduated from Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Cambridge. He has worked in a number of restaurants in the Boston+ area. He has also visited Croatia, exploring its culinary scene, and worked with local chefs there. He spent time with Chef Sasa Began at the Labrax restaurant, located in Zadar, and this visit inspired the food menu for the Croatian Wine Dinner.

The menu was seafood-heavy, and as I love seafood, that was very appealing, and all of the seafood was prepared well, showcasing its flavors. His lamb dish was also excellent, and it's clear that Chef Sheehan is very talented.

The dinner began in the bar area, where all of the attendees, about 35 in all, could mingle, enjoy some wine, oysters and shrimp cocktail. There were two local oysters, Duxbury and Wellfleet, both with a green apple and apricot mignonette. I enjoyed both oysters, offering that tasty briny element, but my preference were the larger Wellfleet ones. The mignonette was a nice accent to the oysters, adding a hint of sweetness and some acidity.

The Shrimp Cocktail offered plump, tender shrimp with a slightly spicy cocktail sauce. A very good way to begin the wine dinner.

The first wine of the evening was the 2023 Volarević Pošip, and Pošip is a perfect choice for pairing with oysters and other seafood. The Volarević winery, in the Komarna region, is one of my favorites in Croatia. The Pošip for this wine was produced on the island of Korčula, which some claim was the birthplace of Marco Polo. The wine is complex, crisp, and compelling, with a fine melange of flavors, including citrus, peach, and a hint of almonds. It's medium-bodied and possesses a lengthy, pleasing finish. It's an excellent wine for summer weather or paired with seafood. With the briny oysters, it was a superb pairing!

After the oysters and shrimp, we were seated in the dining room and our first course was Pan Seared Scallops, with a corn puree, Chanterelle mushroom, and a summer succotash. A well balanced and delicious dish! The scallops were tender and sweet, and the corn puree was an excellent sauce (and I feel that scallops and corn is such a harmonious pairing). The earthy mushrooms provided a nice balance to the sweetness, along with some of the different elements of the succotash. The plating was also very enticing. A great start to the meal.

The wine pairing was the 2022 Zure Grk, from Korčula/Dalmatia. "Grk," which means "bitter" in Croatia, is also known as Grk Bijeli. It's a rare grape, and is primarily grown on the island of Korčula. Much of the Grk, which grows in sandy soils, evaded phylloxera because of those sandy soils. The grapes in this wine saw a bit of skin contact. It's a bigger white wine, smooth and tasty, with mild tannins, subtle fruit flavors and hints of spice. Complex and intriguing, it was one of my favorite wines of the dinner, and worked very well with the scallops.

The second course was Ahi Tuna Steak, with a strawberry balsamic reduction and insalata verde. The tender tuna, which was cooked perfectly, was delicious, especially with the sweetness of the reduction, and balanced out with the more bitter greens.

With the tuna, we enjoyed the 2023 Volarević Plavac Mali Rosé La Chic, which is produced from 100% Plavac Mali, the most dominant red grape in the Dalmatian region. It only sees stainless steel, and had a rich pink color. It's a dry and crisp Rosé, with bright red fruit flavors, especially strawberry and watermelon. A pleasant summery wine, and it did well with the tuna. It would probably be a good choice for Thanksgiving dinner as well.

The third course was Grilled Lamb Chops, with a salsa verde, smashed potato, and swiss chard. The three chops constituted a very hearty dish, and the lamb was tender and delicious, enhanced by the salsa verde. The lamb wasn't gamey at all, and was cooked just right, making quite a superb dish. This is a dish that calls for a bigger red wine, and that's what we received.

The 2022 Rizman Tribidrag is primarily produced from the native grape Tribidag, with a small percentage of Tempranillo. You might have tasted Tribidag before, as it has spread from Croatia to Italy and California. In Italy, it's known as Primitivo while in California, it's known as Zinfandel. Yes, Zinfandel, which is often seen as an American grape, actually originated in Croatia! The grapes for this wine were from the Komarna region, and the wine was aged in old French and American barrels for about 8-10 months. It's a bigger, bolder wine, with moderate tannins, and a complex blend of flavors, including ripe plums, black cherry, chocolate, and spice notes. A lengthy finish, well balanced, and perfect for lamb chops to steak. Why not try the original Zinfandel?

For dessert, I thoroughly enjoyed Grandma’s Chocolate Cake, with a cherry cola buttercream, almond brittle, and vanilla gelato. Such a delicious mix of textures and flavors, it actually seemed like a light dish. The buttercream was light and creamy, and the cake was moist and full of chocolate flavors. An excellent way to end the dinner.

With dessert, we drank the 2015 BIBICh Bas de Bas Crno, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Merlot. In an episode of No Reservations, Anthony Bourdain visited the BIBICh winery, and this wine was one of his top favorites. This wine, only made in certain vintages, is oaked for about 2 years. This is a powerhouse of a wine, yet with sufficient restraint so that it doesn't overwhelm. Bold tannins, strong black fruit flavors, a spicy backbone, and a lengthy finish. It's an impressive wine, well balanced, and would also pair well with a juicy steak or game meat.

After dessert, we were presented with one additional wine, the 2021 Crvik Amber Blaise, an orange/skin contact wine, made from the Malvasia Dubrovačka grape, which has existed since the time of the ancient Greeks. The grapes for this wine were fermented in a barrel, and then aged with the pomace for about eight months, and then aged for another four months without the pomace. I've previously enjoyed the 2017 vintage, and the 2021 vintage is very similar. The wine is complex and intriguing, with a fascinating melange of flavors, including peach, almonds, orange peel, floral notes, and a subtle mineral aspect. Excellent acidity, well-integrated tannins, and a lengthy finish. There is so much going on in each sip, and you could easily sit and savor a glass for hours, reveling in what can be found with each taste.

Many thanks to John Murray, Mirena Bagur, Win Burke, and Chef Johnny Sheehan, for presenting a fun, delicious and informative Croatian Wine dinner. So, I recommend that you dine at Murray's Tavern and Porto, and also order some Croatian wines from Croatian Premium Wine Imports.

Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 14 Sep 2026 12:34:37 +0000

Yesterday, I drove by the sight in North Reading where, in August, a 21-year-old man, alleged to be a drunk driver, rear ended another vehicle, killing a father and his 8-year old daughter. A horrific tragedy but one which could have been avoided if the young driver had followed a simple bit of advice.

DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!!!

For everyone else, let me once again give you this important advice. It couldn't be any simpler so please listen carefully. This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this holiday season. Please, please, please give this your full attention!

If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there's any, absolutely any, doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Any questions?

Once again, I step forward with probably my most important Rant of the Year. It's an absolutely vital issue for everyone who enjoys alcohol of any type, from wine to beer, from Scotch to hard cider. With the imminent advent of the holiday season we reach a potentially dangerous period for those people who over indulge, who drink too much at parties, feasts and gatherings. There is nothing wrong with that, and you can drink as much as you desire, as long as you give up your keys to someone who is sober, and you do not drive.

As I've said multiple times before, and which I'll repeat year after year, "If there is any question, no matter how small, whether you are too intoxicated to drive, then don't. If your family or friends think you have had too much to drink, don't drive. Just don't. It is not worth the risk by any calculation." Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please don't drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive!

Rationally, we all know the dangers of drinking and driving. We endanger our own lives as well as the lives of others. Every year, we hear multiple news reports about terrible auto accidents, some with fatalities, that occur because a driver was intoxicated. Families are torn apart, lives are ruined, and much more. Why don't we learn from all these incidents? Even if you don't get in an accident, you might get arrested for drunk driving, with all the attendant high costs, and not just economic. You might even end up in jail.

About 8,000 people were arrested for drunk driving in Massachusetts in 2024, and about 75% of those arrested were men. That's a huge figure, showing that far too many people still don't understand that they should not drink and drive. Did you know that if you only had two drinks in a hour, you might still have a blood alcohol level over the legal limit? How difficult is it to understand? DON'T DRINK & DRIVE! I'm sure drunk driving incidents in other states are just as significant.

As a more sobering statistic, 12,429 people (including over 280 children) in the U.S. were killed in drunk driving accidents in 2023. In 2021 and 2022, each year had seen over 13,000 fatalities, so the numbers have decreased a small amount, but that's obviously still far too many deaths. It needs to change and change now.

Each time you drink and drive, you endanger yourself, your passengers, pedestrians, cyclists, and people in other vehicles. Let someone else drive you, whether it be a friend or family. Take an Uber or public transportation. Leave your car where it is parked as you can always pick it up the next day. You have plenty of options so there is absolutely no reason to drink and drive. Be responsible.

I don't want to lose any family or friends this year due to a drunk driving accident. I don't think anyone wants to lose their loved ones either. Your family and friends would rather you didn't drink and drive as they don't you to die in a terrible drunk driving accident. So please just don't!

I should also add that this applies to driving while under the influence of any drug, from marijuana to cocaine. Drugs also negatively alter your driving abilities, and legally you can be charged with operating under the influence of those drugs, and not just alcohol.

DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 10 Sep 2026 14:37:10 +0000

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) The Boston Pizza Festival has announced the lineup of participating pizzerias set to take over City Hall Plaza when New England’s largest consumer pizza event returns on Saturday, September 19 and Sunday, September 20 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

This year’s festival will bring together a collection of celebrated pizzerias, local favorites, and pizza makers representing a variety of styles and traditions. From New Haven-style apizza and Neapolitan-inspired pies to Detroit-style pizza and creative modern interpretations, attendees will have the opportunity to sample their way through an impressive lineup over the course of the two-day event.

Participating pizzerias include: Sally’s Apizza, Evviva Trattoria, CeCarré Pizza & Provisions, Ciao! Pizza and Pasta, Wicked Cheesy, Pizza Taxi, Quattro, Peppino’s Pizza, Eataly, Annies Pizzeria, Nutella Paradise, Central Cafe, McGonagle’s Pub, Pizzeria Rustico, Know Your Roll, American Flatbread, Palencia’s Pizza, PaPPo’s Pizzeria & Pub, Copperdome Crust, Lala’s Neapolitan-ish Pizza, Motor City Pizza, Mamma Mia’s, Gio’s, and Fiero Forni.

Pizza Taxi is traveling from Vico Equense, Italy, to offer attendees the opportunity to experience authentic Italian pizza without leaving City Hall Plaza.

Each participating pizzeria will fire up handcrafted Fiero Group artisan ovens throughout the weekend to prepare fresh pies on-site. The Boston Pizza Festival will also team up with Sam Adams to offer beer selections available alongside wines from Vinzo’s Wine. Beyond the pizza, the two-day celebration will feature an interactive pizza-making demonstration with The Dough Connection, along with live music and entertainment throughout the weekend.

Tickets for the 2026 Boston Pizza Festival are now on sale. All guests must purchase a $10 Admission Ticket, which includes entry into the event and two pizza slices with any toppings of their choice. Additional slice packages, available exclusively as add-ons, allow attendees to customize their experience with options including The Love Triangle (3 slices), The Pizza Lover (5 slices), and The Whole Fam (10 slices). Add-on packages do not grant event entry on their own.

Admission will increase to $15 on September 19 and 20, the weekend of the event. For tickets and additional information, please visit www.bostonpizzafestival.com

2) In honor of National Bourbon Month, Vermilion, Michelin-starred chef John Fraser’s contemporary chophouse at Boston’s Winthrop Center, is offering a limited-time $35 Burger & Bourbon pairing throughout September. Available all day at the bar, the special includes Vermilion’s signature burger and an Angel’s Envy cocktail, a Smoked Old Fashioned.

Created by Executive Chef Justin Urso, Vermilion’s burger puts an elevated spin on a chophouse classic with ingredients including Pat LaFrieda beef, sourced from Fraser’s preferred butcher of more than 20 years, is freshly ground each day and formed in-house into 80/20 blend patties. Each burger is also served on a house-made brioche bun, baked fresh in Vermilion’s kitchen. The result is a carefully crafted burger that feels both indulgent and approachable, and an ideal match for bourbon.

3) Maple & Ash is bringing a fall favorite to its home in the Seaport: Prime Rib. Beginning September 13, on Sundays, from 5-10pm, the steakhouse will serve a weekly special on– fire-roasted black garlic prime rib with au jus, paired with creamed spinach and a bone marrow popover – on Sunday evenings ($95 per guest). Maple & Ash’s executive chef Jorge Campos will lead the team in butchering and dry-aging the decadent primal cuts of beef in-house.

Also beginning September 13, Maple & Ash will expand its dinner service to seven nights weekly, adding Sunday and Monday to its reservation availability. From it’s "I Don't Give a F*@K" tasting menu to its Boston-exclusive bar menu and á la carte signature creations, Maple & Ash will open nightly to serve guests in its dining room, bar and lounge area, as well as its recently debuted all-season terrace overlooking the Superette.

Rant: My Drinking Advice For Post-Labor Day

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 07 Sep 2026 13:07:55 +0000

Happy Labor Day!

Today is Labor Day, what many people see as the unofficial end of Summer, despite the fact that the official end isn't until September 22. Labor Day also presages changes in the wine and beverage world, beyond the fact it's grape harvest season, and consumers need to pay attention. There are opportunities now that they should take advantage of, to learn more about wine and other beverages, to experience different drinks, and to enjoy plenty of delicious drinks. I've compiled some drinking advice for the Fall and rest of the year.

1) Don't Stop Drinking Rosé
It's a myth that Rosé is only a Summer wine. The reality is that Rosé can and should be consumed year-round, no matter what the season, especially as it's excellent with food. Don't be fooled by those who try to claim it's only a seasonal wine. The better wine stores understand that Rosé is great all year round and thus they will stock Rosé throughout the year, even though many distributors don't push Rosé during this time. Thanksgiving is an excellent occasion for Rosé. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Stock Up On Rosé.

2) Celebrate International Port Wine Day on September 10

Port wine, produced in Portugal, comes in a variety of styles and types, from Ruby Port to Tawny Port, from White Port to Rosé Port. There are Vintage Ports as well as Ports of various ages, from 10 Years to 50 Years. This holiday is a great time to explore the wonders of Port wine, as well as its food pairings. For myself, Port and Blue Cheese is one of my favorites. You can learn much more about Port HERE, with links to my many Port articles, from the Origins of Port to numerous reviews.

3) Celebrate Sake Day on October 1
Nihonshu no Hi, known in English as Sake Day, originated over 40 years ago, in 1978, by a declaration of the Japan Sake Brewers Association and is now celebrated worldwide. Japanese Sake remains a niche beverage in the U.S. so this is a perfect day to learn more about it, to sample some delicious Sake, and understand its wonders. Some local restaurants and wine shops may offer Sake Day celebrations and you should avail yourselves of that opportunity. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Celebrate Sake Day!

4) Celebrate International Sherry Week in November
This year, International Sherry Week will be held from November 2-8. Sherry may be one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you're probably not drinking. It remains a tiny niche beverage in the U.S. and like Sake Day, this is a perfect opportunity to learn more about Sherry, to sample some delicious bottles, and understand its wonders. This will be at least a couple thousand Sherry events across the world. For more thoughts on Sherry, check out All About Sherry.

5) Don't Stress Over Thanksgiving Wines
The holidays are a stressful enough time that you really shouldn't add to your stress by worrying about the wine. Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they don't blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work and few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings." For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: Don't Stress Over Choosing Your Thanksgiving Wines.

6) Don't Be Cheap When Buying Holiday Wines
As the holidays approach, you might be planning to host parties for your family and friends. You might need a selection of wine for these celebrations. Price is usually a significant factor in your decision as to which wines to purchase. However, instead of buying just the cheapest wine at a shop, ask the staff at that store for their recommendations for the best value wines. They might be able to suggest wines you might not have considered, wines which offer excellent value as well as taste. These are also some great discount wine shops worthy of your attention, offering compelling wines at a low price point. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate.

7) During the Holidays, Pair Bubbly With Food

During the holiday season, many people will purchase Sparkling Wine, but for most people, it'll merely be for an apertif or for a celebratory toast. Yes, it's excellent on these occasions but it can be so much more! Many people don't realize that Sparkling Wine also pairs very well with a wide variety of foods, and can be consumed throughout the course of a meal, from appetizer to dessert. Take a chance and drink it with whatever they choose to eat, from seafood to steak, pasta to Chinese food. It's a versatile wine when it comes to food pairings, and it can be so delicious. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: During the Holidays, Pair Bubbly With Food.

8) DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!
This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this season. Please give this your full attention. If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there is any doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please do not drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive! For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE...OR ELSE!!

What post-Labor Day drinking advice would you like to add?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 03 Sep 2026 14:52:21 +0000

Amuse Bouche (Tomato in Maesil Syrup)
Zucchini Blossoms Tempura (Zucchini flowers stuffed with Maine lobster, Pink Berkeley Tie Die Tomato Jam)
Tomato Spaghetti (Costoluto Genovese, red shrimp, tobiko roe, and tomato dust)
Duck Confit (Smoked Speckled Roman tomato crème brûlée, summer squashes and phyllo crisp)
Tomato... Sweet Tomato... (Pineapple Heirloom Tomato and gooseberry mousse, basil cream, raspberry glaze)

The tasting menu is also available À la carte and can accommodate most allergies or diets

Cost: Four course tasting menu $95; Wine pairing available $45

You can make a Reservation HERE.

2) On September 1, Anna’s Taqueria introduced its newest mashup of two essential Mexican street food staples: the taquito burrito. Perfect for those whose appetites aren’t ready to commit to an Anna’s “super super” burrito experience on any given day, these perfectly snackable rollups are compact and built for those on-the-go. There are two options: grilled steak & cheese ($5.75 each) with fajita veggies wrapped in a flour tortilla, griddled until crispy, served with your pick of a housemade dipping sauce; and chipotle chicken ($4.75 each) with sweet peppers, fresh cilantro and chipotle sauce packed into a grilled flour with a choice of homemade dipping sauce.

There also is an option to dig into two taquito burritos ($9) of your choosing, or to package your taquito burrito bliss with tortilla chips and a fountain drink ($12).

Recent Food & Drink Highlights

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 01 Sep 2026 14:20:03 +0000

Today, I'd like to highlight of some of the foods and related-shops I've recently enjoyed. I want to spread the joy of some delicious dishes and worthy food shops.

Chicken Skin Crisps! I recently stopped at the World Market at Assembly Row in Somerville, a store which sells furniture, home decor, and lots of food, from all over the world. I was impressed with the variety of food and drinks you could find here, from chocolates to teas, Japanese goodies to English ones. I picked up several items, including the above, Flock Chicken Skin Crisps. They are made from chicken skins and "culinary seasonings." They also state they possess 13 grams of protein, no carbs, and no sugar. They were very crunchy and tasty, not too salty, and made for an excellent snack. They sell several other flavors as well, including Nashville Hot, Ranch, Buffalo, Barbecue, Teriyaki, and Dill Pickle.

Cal's Creamery, in Reading, offers delicious, homemade ice cream, and their Sundaes are especially delicious. They stock over 50 different flavors of ice cream, some seasonal, and you might find flavors such as Baklava, Salted Caramel Cow, Nutella Chip, Oreo Cheesecake, Cannoli, Saltz Pretz, and all of the usual regular flavors, like Vanilla, Chocolate and Strawberry. On many summer days, there's a line outside their ordering windows. You can eat outside at a few picnic tables, or dine inside at one of their interior tables.

Their Sundaes come in Small ($8.41) and Large ($9.35), and the Small comes with two scoops while the Large has three scoops. You can get scoops of all of the same ice cream, and get different flavors. I chose a Small, with scoops of Banana Cream Pie and Coconut Macaroon. You then have a choice of sauces, including Hot Fudge, Caramel, Peanut Butter, Pineapple, Salted Caramel and Strawberry. I opted for the Salted Caramel. Next, you can get home-made whipped cream or marshmallow, and then have the option for walnuts and a cherry. I chose whipped cream, nuts and the cherry. This might be a Small, but it's a hearty dish, and the ice cream is creamy and flavorful. And the whipped cream is a great addition, with a firm and creamy texture, and it's not overly sweet. Rather than lunch one day, why not have a delicious ice cream sundae?

I most often dine at Cappa's Trackside Kitchen, in Melrose, for breakfast. I especially love their Pancakes, although their egg dishes, including omelets, are very good as well. Very reasonably priced, good portions, and tasty food all combine to make this spot an excellent breakfast choice. They also serve Lunch, and I've recently gone there a few times to check it out. I ordered one of their Cheeseburgers, and got it with a side of Steak Fries, although I wasn't expecting what arrived. What huge slices of potato! A crunchy exterior with the softer potato interior. Such a tasty dish, and it's rare to find any restaurant serving these type of fries. The Cheeseburger was tasty as well.

You're unlikely to walk by The Bread Basket, in Danvers, as it's a bit off the beaten path, a side street off Maple Street where most of the businesses are located. However, it's well worth the short detour. It's a French bakery, which makes breads and pastries, croissants and cookies. I was intrigued by the loaf of Cinnamon Babka, which in the above photo is behind the Chocolate Chip Babka. It was a good choice, filled with lots of cinnamon flavor, permeating much of the loaf, and the bread itself was soft and with some crunch from its exterior. If you love cinnamon, this would be a great choice. As I was ready to leave with my purchase, one of the cooks put out a basket of fresh, hot baguettes, and I had to buy one. Once I got to my car, I tore off a piece of the baguette as I couldn't wait to taste it, especially as it was hot. And it was everything I wanted in such a baguette, a crusty exterior with a fluffy interior. If only I had some butter with me at the moment.

Also in Danvers, Tea Camilla is an independent tea shop, which sells over 150 loose-leaf teas and botanicals, as well as books, cups, candles, and other related items. What a huge selection of teas, including white, green, black, rooibos, and more. A number of the teas are flavored, and there's plenty of diversity in those flavors. You can purchase a packaged, small amount of the teas, often containing 1/2 to 1 ounce, or you can purchase a larger package. The small packages are a great way to try out the teas, to see if you like them or not. I ended up buying 6 different teas, including a Butterscotch White Tea, a Golden Tipped Yunnan Black Tea, and a Peach Oolong Tea. I've been using them to make iced tea, and I've loved all of the teas so far. The flavored teas are more subtle, and not overwhelming, and they don't present as sweet. You might think the Butterscotch would have been sweet, but it wasn't, and added more a creaminess to the tea, with the taste if butterscotch.

They also serve hot and cold teas, and will make a hot tea for you from any of the teas they sell. Everything is made from scratch, including the iced teas, so you have to wait a short time for you tea to be ready, but you'll be very pleased with the results.

Rant: Drink Like A Colonial!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 31 Aug 2026 06:30:00 +0000

How times have changed...

According to The Founding Foodies: How Washington, Jefferson and Franklin Revolutinized American Cuisine (2010) by Dave De Witt, during Colonial days, "The common belief was that strong drink made for a strong body and soul; alcohol was believed to be nutritious and healthful, and it was used in medications that could supposedly cure snakebite, frostbite, fever, cold, melancholy, and even a broken leg. Insurance companies raised their rates for nondrinkers, and hard liquor was even more popular in the colonies than in England."

The book continued, "Colonists drank twice as much as Americans do now." In addition, "Regular drinking was normal for all ages, and young students were given ale or hard cider for breakfast. Harvard College even had its own brewery. In courtrooms, all parties, judge and defendant included, passed around and shared bottles of liquor. Stagecoaches stopped every five miles to “water the horses and brandy the gentlemen.” Whiskey was served at house-raisings, huskings, reaping, land clearings, or whenever women gathered to quilt, sew, or perform other communal labor.

And interestingly, during the Revolutionary War, as England blocked shipments of molasses and rum, colonials had tough times. "For drinkers, times were so bad that they were forced to drink spruce and pumpkin beers." Contrast that with today when pumpkin beers are enormously popular, and can be found on store shelves as early as July.

As for the drinking habits of American today, a recent Gallup Poll provides disturbing news, which have been supported by numerous other recent articles on the same subject. The Gallup Poll stated, "The share of Americans who say they drink alcohol remains at a record-low 54% for the second consecutive year, the lowest reading in Gallup’s trend dating back to 1939." The article continued, "Self-reported drinking fell over the previous three years, from 62% in 2023 to 58% in 2024 and 54% in 2025, before holding steady this year."

One of the major reasons for this decline is that more people consider drinking to have negative health consequences. "Fifty-one percent of U.S. adults now believe drinking one or two alcoholic beverages a day is bad for one’s health. The figure is essentially unchanged from last year’s record-high 53% and marks only the second time since Gallup first asked the question in 2001 that a majority has expressed this view." Back in 2001, only 27% considered it unhealthy.

The decrease in alcohol consumption has other causes as well, such as the increased use of cannabis and the increased costs of alcohol due to tariffs and other factors.

One positive with this decline was noted. "As overall drinking has declined, the percentage of Americans who say they sometimes drink too much has also fallen, reaching a new low of 13%. Before 2000, more than 20% of Americans routinely reported overdrinking, including a record-high 35% in 1989."

If they consume alcohol, what are Americans drinking? Beer, at 36% is the most popular, followed closely by spirits at 32% and wine at 30%. During the past ten years, beer dropped 7 percentage points while liquor rose by 12 points, although wine has remained largely consistent. Gender plays a significant role in these percentages, with 56% of men, as opposed to 16% of women, preferring beer. 45% of women, as opposed to 15% of men, prefer wine. And 37% of women, as opposed to 26% of men, favor spirits.

So, here's some questions for discussion or contemplation:

Has your alcohol consumption decreased in recent years? If so, what are the reasons for the decrease? Health concerns? Cannabis consumption? Price? Other?
Do you prefer to drink beer, seltzers, wine or spirits? Has that preference changed in recent years?
What might cause you to increase your overall alcohol consumption?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 27 Aug 2026 12:42:36 +0000

Tickets are $135 per person and include the reception, five-course dinner, and all wine pairings. Please note that this event may feature community seating. Guests with allergies or dietary restrictions are encouraged to contact oliviap@tonnorestaurant.com in advance. Due to the nature of the curated menu, substitutions will not be available on the day of the event. Guests can secure their reservation via Tonno Wakefield’s Resy.

Rant: Wine & Beer, It's Not Just About Flavor

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 24 Aug 2026 06:30:00 +0000

Why do you enjoy wine and beer? And please be honest about your reasons.

When you read winer and beer reviews, when you speak to the staff at your local wine and beer shop, when you speak to family and friends, you'll generally learn about the various flavors in those beverages. Some will even rhapsodize with a lengthy litany of aromas and flavors they discern in these beverages, sometimes using descriptors which seem to make little sense to the casual drinker.

In all those descriptions though, one important element is usually omitted, possibly a legacy of our puritanical heritage. It's the dark secret of beer and wine consumption, that aspect we dare not speak aloud. However, it's a secret most of us share, and it makes little sense to conceal it. We shouldn't deny the reality behind our drinking.

Be honest. You can do it. Sure, you probably enjoy the aromas and flavors of your wine or beer, but we all know that you also enjoy wine and beer because it contains alcohol. You like that apparent sense of euphoria provided by alcohol. You revel in how alcohol makes you feel, altering your perception. Frankly, you probably wouldn't be drinking beer and wine if it didn't include alcohol. When is the last time you drank a non-alcoholic beer or wine? How often do you consume non-alcoholic beer or wine?

In the U.S., non-alcoholic wine and beer has become more popular but it still only accounts for less than 0.5% of overall alcohol retail sales. Some may drink non-alcoholic beverages because they believe it's healthier for them. However, I've heard plenty of complaints about the taste of non-alcoholic wine.

Maybe we should talk more about our enjoyment of alcohol in wine and beer, to stop hiding our reason in the shadows. It's an important element of what we drink so there's no need to deny it. It probably doesn't seem like proper etiquette to discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol. It seems more refined to discuss the various aromas and tastes rather than explore how the alcohol affected us. If we discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol, we might be perceived by others as having a problem.

Those who actually discuss such effects, like Anthony Bourdain, are usually seen as rebels and bad boys. However, as so many people actually enjoy the effects of alcohol, it should be the norm to openly discuss it. It shouldn't be perceived as bad. So step up and admit the truth, that you drink wine and beer, in part, because you like the effects of alcohol. It certainly isn't the only reason we enjoy these beverages, but it plays a significant factor. And maybe by discussing it, we can better avoid problems with the abuse of alcohol.

A History of Boston Jews, Kosher Restaurants, and Chinese Food

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 18 Aug 2026 16:38:30 +0000

It's a strong tradition, some even might say a sacred tradition, for Jews to enjoy Chinese food on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The connection of Jews to Chinese food extends back over 100 years, possibly even to the late 19th century. I want to explore some of the history of the connections of Boston's Jewish population, Kosher restaurants, Chinatown and Chinese cuisine.

A small number of Jews have lived in the Boston area since at least since the 18th century, but it wasn't until around 1880 that much more significant Jewish immigration to Boston began. Many thousands moved to the North End, especially around Salem Street, but in the 1890s, a number also moved to the area of Chinatown.

In comparison, Jewish immigration to New York City started much earlier, establishing a strong Jewish community. For example, the Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), November 19, 1867, noted there were about 40 Jewish restaurants in New York City. At that time, there weren't any Jewish restaurants in Boston, and wouldn't be for over twenty years.

The first Jewish restaurant in Boston wouldn't open until 1889. The Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), October 31, 1889, reported that a new Kosher restaurant “on an extensive scale” had just opened in Boston, “where the meat has been killed according to the law of Moses.” The name and location of the restaurant was not provided in the article. However, it seems likely that it was located in the North End, where most of the Jewish population in Boston was based.

It seems likely that five years later, this same restaurant was mentioned again, with a bit more detail, although the name of the restaurant wasn't provided. The Boston Globe (MA), January 7, 1894, stated, "The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome guests, the price of dinner being 40 cents." The 40-cent dinner consists of soup, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are 'everyday people.' There one might ask for 'noodle soup' and be understood by the pretty waiter, but not by the ordinary American. The new customer might receive a cup of tea or coffee when it is called for, but the everyday patron will have his in a cup."

By the mid-1890s, a number of Jews began settling or working on Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 28, 1896, printed an article that was subtitled, “Harrison Av Home of Many Jewish Merchants” Salem Street, in the North End, had a new rival for being the primary area for Jewish merchants. The article continued, "Harrison av, whose name suggests the word ‘Chinatown,’ is now, and has been for several years, offering extra inducements to purchasers of property for persons desiring to form a new settlement.” It was also noted, "This district had no Jewish families a few years ago. Now they are in full control...There are barber shops, butcher establishments, Jewish restaurants, furniture, new and second hand. Everything needed to successfully start housekeeping is for sale on a very small space of ground.” So, Jewish restaurants now existed in Chinatown.

The Boston Globe, September 5, 1896, mentioned that Salem Street, Lowell Street, and Harrison Avenue were all places where Kosher meat could be obtained.

Did the Jews of Harrison Avenue patronize the Chinese restaurants of that area? It's difficult to know for sure, but definitely seems possible. Much depends on how strongly the Jew wanted to eat kosher and whether they saw Chinese restaurants as acceptable under their dietary laws. At the very least, some Jews might have dined at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day, especially considering most other restaurants were closed.

As I mentioned in another article, Chinatown's restaurants on Christmas in 1897 were relatively empty. However, the Boston Globe, December 26, 1898, reported, “Down in Chinatown Christmas was observed in the ‘same old way.’ The Chinamen simply regard it as a pretty good time for business, and they are not so far out of the way, judging from last evening, for every restaurant in Chinatown was crowded by white folks.”

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that some of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options. If so, then the Jewish tradition in Boston of eating Chinese on Christmas extends back about 128 years!

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From 1900-1920, a number of Jewish Kosher restaurants would open in Chinatown, including one of the longest lasting, Prime Restaurant.

The Standard-Times, November 5, 1900, reported that Benjamin Holshanetsky, a Jewish restaurant keeper, had been charged with keeping liquor with intent to unlawfully sell the same. Police raided his searched his restaurant, with a warrant, and found 3 pint bottles of lager, a half pint of brandy, a bottle of cherries and rum, a small quantity of light wine, and several empty bottles, Benjamin claimed it was only for his family, but he was found guilty and fined $50.

The Boston Globe, May 18, 1901, published an ad, “Board and rooms for the summer season, everything first-class, salt water bathing, boating, fishing, etc; engage early. Mrs. Stone’s Kosher restaurant, 174 Chamber st, Boston.”

The Boston Globe, August 7, 1905, briefly noted that the Jewish section of Salem Street had a number of Jewish restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, March 3, 1906, posted this ad for Fewes Kosher Restaurant, located on 78 Kingston Street.

The Jewish Advocate, October 8, 1909, had this advertisement for Guterman's Restaurant, alleging it was "The Oldest and Best Kosher Restaurant in Boston." It was located at 94 Essex Street, which would have placed it on the Chinatown border. However, I haven't been able to find any additional information about this restaurant, such as the date they were established. It's thus can't confirm that it was the "oldest" Kosher restaurant in the city.

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The Jewish Advocate, October 28, 1920, provided maybe the first advertisement for the opening of Prime Restaurant, a new Kosher spot located in Chinatown, on 155 Harrison Avenue. The ad stated it was “where a real god meal will be served at all times.”

Prime Restaurant Co., was organized on September 17, 1920 and incorporated the next day. At this time, the area was a hub for the garment industry, which had strong Jewish involvement and investment. So, having a Kosher restaurant nearby was a benefit to many. Prime Restaurant would last for over 40 years!

The Jewish Advocate, September 21, 1922, published another ad for Prime, noting it was a Kosher Restaurant and Delicatessen, and "Meals Served at All Hours."

The Jewish Advocate, March 18, 1926, had another ad, recommending Jews patronize the restaurant for Passover. It was also noted that breakfast was served at 6am, and dinner at 10am.

The Jewish Advocate, April 22, 1926, had a short article on Joe Bullian, the manager of The Prime Restaurant. It was also noted that the owner of the restaurant was William Josephs and it "is now considered one of the leading Kosher restaurants in the city." It was also mentioned that copies of the Jewish Advocate would now be placed on every table at the restaurant for the customers.

The Jewish Advocate, May 10 and 17, 1928, mentioned that Prime was probably the largest Jewish restaurant in Boston and now have opened a strictly vegetarian restaurant at 11 Harrison Avenue, "The Only One of Its Kind in Boston."

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1930, promoted the restaurant for Passover meals, from Passover Suppers to Passover dishes at their Cafeteria and Vegetarian spots.

The Jewish Advocate, November 6, 1931, noted that Prime was "The Finest Jewish Restaurant in the Heart of the Theatrical and Business Center."

Another advertisement in The Jewish Advocate, September 15, 1936.

The Jewish Advocate, March 19, 1937, had a brief article about Prime Restaurant, stating it would offer strictly Kosher meals for Passover, "featuring special suppers and services at the first and second seders in their newly created Kosher Dining Room at 9 1/2 Harrison avenue (upstairs) with Rabbi B. Mostofsky certifying to the kashruth."

The Jewish Advocate, March 26, 1937, had an ad about their Passover meals.

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1938, noted that Prime would have a New Year Party for two nights.

The Jewish Advocate, February 17, 1939, had an ad, noting you could now dine and dance at the restaurant, which now had a "special floor show" and no cover charge.

Unfortunate news! The Boston Globe, July 26, 1939, reported that there had been a two-alarm fire at the five-story brick building located at 9 1/2-11-13 Harrison Avenue. The damages were estimated at about $10,000. The first two floors had been occupied by Prime Restaurant and had been filled with flames and smoke. There was also water and smoke damage to the upper floors.

The Boston Herald, August 11, 1940, had a notice of an auction of dining room and kitchen fixtures and equipment of the Prime Restaurant, likely due to the fire, smoke, and water damage. The restaurant was apparently closed for a time, but reopening in less than a year.

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1941, published an ad for the Prime Restaurant, noting it would re-open on April 11.

The Jewish Advocate, April 18, 1941, ran a brief article mentioning that the Prime Restaurant and Cocktail Bar had formally reopened last week. The proprietor was noted as being Willie Joseph. The article also stated, "The Cocktail Bar will be opened to the public April 22, serving the finest nationally advertised brands of ale, beer, and bonded liquors at popular prices."

Another ad for Prime in the Jewish Advocate, April 3, 1942. It was noted they now had a new dining room and banquet hall, which can accommodate over 300 people.

The Prime restaurant continues to promote itself for Passover in an ad in the Jewish Advocate, March 10, 1949.

The Jewish Advocate, November 7, 1957, mentioned Prime would serve Thanksgiving dinners.

The Boston Evening Globe, January 18, 1961, had an obituary for William Joseph, age 70, who was the Treasurer of the Prime Restaurant while his brother, Benjamin, was the President. Then, the Boston Globe, August 5, 1962, reported that Benjamin Joseph, age 62, had died too. He was noted as the former owner of the Prime Restaurant, and two other restaurants. The new owner of Prime had been Isaac Manski, who came to the U.S. in 1937 from Poland. The Boston Herald Traveler, July 13, 1967, reported that Isaac, aged 72, had died.

It's probably not a surprise then that Boston Herald, June 23, 1963, posted an ad for an auction of the equipment and furnishings for the Prime Restaurant. For over 40 years, Prime Restaurant, located in Chinatown, was one of the premiere Kosher restaurants in Boston. Because of its popularity, and location, many Jews spent time walking through Chinatown, and likely became curious about the Chinese restaurants.

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In Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History (2016) by James C. O’Connell, there was a mention of a Boston Globe article from 1916 discussing the myriad restaurants in the city. that mentioned there had been at that time about 218 Jewish owned restaurants, mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens. It was noted, "The number had grown from a single Jewish restaurant in 1894 to 218 in 1916, reflecting the immigrant influx to Boston. These restaurants were mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens, selling Eastern European bagels, borscht, chicken soup, smoked fish, latkes, and the like, usually meeting kosher standards.”

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A quick note: The Jewish Advocate was a weekly Jewish newspaper, established in 1902, serving Greater Boston and the New England area. It was an important source of information for the Jewish community, and helped to promote the idea of Jews patronizing Chinese restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, September 7, 1907, presented the first advertisement in their newspaper for a Chinese restaurant, the Hankow, on 19 Essex Street. The ad noted the cleanliness of the restaurant, and that it will become "one of the BEAUTY SPOTS of Boston." However, it seems it would be nearly 20 years before the Jewish Advocate would run another ad for a Chinese restaurant. This might indicate that Chinese restaurants weren't too popular with the Jewish community until the mid-1920s.

It wasn't until 1926 that the next advertisement for a Chinese restaurant was published. The Jewish Advocate, September 9, 1926, had an ad for the King Joy Chinese Restaurant, at 311 Union Street, The ad also wished a Happy New Year to the Jewish community, referring to Rosh Hashanah, which was celebrated from September 8-10, 1926. A burst of other Chinese restaurants would advertise in the newspaper during the rest of 1926. This might have been the beginning of the close connection between Jews and Chinese food in Boston.

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, presented an ad for China Rose, offering specials meals, including a Club Lunch for 45 cents, a Table D'Hote Dinner for 85 cents, and Sunday & Holiday Special for $1.25. Dancing was also available at the restaurant.

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, also had an ad for the Palm Garden, with similarly priced special meals. The restaurant also offered music, but didn't mention whether dancing was available as well.

The Jewish Advocate, September 23, 1926, published this ad for the Santung Restaurant, which offered a Special Luncheon every day, and also had dancing.

The Jewish Advocate, November 11, 1926, had an ad for the Tremont Gardens, noting you could dine and dance.

There was a brief article in the Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1926, which discussed the new opening of the Symphony Restaurant, alleged to be the largest Chinese restaurant in Boston. It was located adjacent to Symphony Hall on Huntington Avenue. "Indeed the management has spared no expense to make this 'the largest and most beautiful restaurant in New England.'" It was also claimed that it would have the largest dance floor in Boston. The article also noted, "Mr. Wallace Hong of New York, who has come to the Hub to manage the 'Symphony,' has many Jewish acquaintance here in town and looks forward to their patronage."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, published this ad for Young China, promoting its "Chicken Chow Mein."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, also had this ad, for the Si Woo Restaurant, noting it was taking New Year Reservations.

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, published this ad for Yen Ho, an "American-Chinese Restaurant de Luxe." The restaurant offered music and dancing, and its New Year reservations cost $5.00 per plate.

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, also had an ad for Chung Sai, promoting its New Year's Eve celebration.

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When did Chinese restaurants first offer dancing? The common legend is that around 1925, Joseph Rines, a famous Jewish musician, convinced the manager of the San Tung (or Santung) restaurant to install the first dance floor of any Chinese restaurant in Boston. Joseph Rines was born October 1, 1902 and would die on December 12, 1986.

The Jewish Advocate, August 19, 1926, mentioned, “It was only a few years ago that Joe Rines just out of high school gathered several other young men and organized a band. Then came the radio and his appearance several times a week through Jackson’s Cabin on Station WEEI and now he has under his direction five leading orchestras in several of the most exclusive resorts in New England.” Joe was obviously very talented and driven, coming very far in only a short time.

The Jewish Advocate, July 28, 1927, published the above photo of Joe Rines. The accompanying article noted that Rines had come from an unusual family of musicians. “His grandfather was the leader and owner of the first band in the city of Boston and his grandfather and uncle practically controlled all of the better type of musical organizations about the time that the first Boston Musicians’ Union was formed.” In addition, other family members, including uncles and cousins were also musicians. As for Joe, “While Joe can now play almost every instrument in his 10-piece orchestra he is not satisfied. His one ambition is to be able to play every instrument in his orchestra well.” Personally, Joe was married, his wife named Gertrude, and they had a 2 1/2 year old daughter, Barbara.

The Jewish Advocate, March 7, 1929, claimed that about 3 and ½ years ago, Joe Rines, had an intriguing idea. “The idea of a dance floor in a Chinese restaurant had not been tried in Boston until Mr. Rines persuaded the manager of the San Tung Restaurant to mix dance notes with chop suey and install a dance floor. The idea caught on, and it was a success from the first.” It was also said that this idea made him “the ‘Paul Whitman’ of Boston, master of jazz, and entertainer par excellence.” Currently, Joe is the maestro of the Metropolitan Theatre Orchestra.” He was also popular on the radio, and it was noted, “It is said that he individually handles more radio work than any other Boston musician and employs more than 100 men weekly.”

The Boston Herald, February 25, 1919, had an advertisement for the opening of the Santung Restaurant, at 241-243 Huntington Avenue. They offered music every evening.

Six years later, the Boston Herald, January 25, 1926, published the first ad for the Santung which mentioned dancing was now available at the restaurant. There was no mention of the involvement of Joe Rines, but that might have been expected.

However, in 1925, the Santung restaurant actually wasn't the first Chinese restaurant to offer dancing, so Joe Rines was not the first to recommend dancing.

The Boston Globe, December 30, 1920, had the above ad for the Grand Garden and their New Year's Eve Celebration which offered "Orchestra--Entertainment--Dancing--Favors, etc." This could be seen as a one-off, and that dancing was not the norm at this restaurant, simply something extra for New Year's.

However, the Boston Post, January 15, 1921 printed an ad for the new Nankin Garden, the “Latest American Chinese Restaurant,” located on Brighton Avenue, at the corner of Harvard Avenue and next door to Allston Theater. This restaurant offered dancing and a jazz orchestra, from 6:30pm-11:30pm, and it wasn't a one-off or holiday celebration. This might have been the first Chinese restaurant in Boston to offer dancing on a regular basis.

There was an ad in the Boston Herald, January 20, 1925, for the Grand Garden, an American & Chinese restaurant at 660 Washington Street, at the corner of Beach Street. This now was a Dine and Dance restaurant, and the ad predated, by a week, the Santung advertisement mentioning dancing.

The Boston Herald, May 16, 1925, printed ads from two Chinese-American restaurants. The first was for the Santung Restaurant, which offered music and dancing. The other was the Palm Garden, at 218 Huntington Avenue which also offered music and dancing.

The Boston Herald, September 16, 1925, posted an ad for China Rose, a Chinese-American restaurant at 1088 Boylston Street in Kenmore. The restaurant offered dancing, without a cover charge.

The Boston Herald, November 25, 1925, printed an ad for the Court Chinese Restaurant, located at 14 Hanover Street. The Chinese-American restaurant also had music and dancing.

So, it seems dancing at Chinese restaurants extends back to at least 1920, although it didn't become a regular feature of any Chinese restaurant until 1921, four years before Joe Rines allegedly introduced dancing at Boston Chinese restaurants at the Santung restaurant.

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During the 1920s and 1930s, the Jewish Advocate presented a handful of Chinese recipes, mostly Chop Suey, although some were more Americanized.

Maybe the first recipe was presented in the Jewish Advocate, September 6, 1928. The recipe was for "American Chicken Chop Suey."

The Jewish Advocate, May 16, 1929, presented the same recipe, but it's much easier to read. As you can see, it doesn't require any special Chinese ingredients.

As an aside, the Jewish Advocate, March 14, 1929, mentioned that at a local carnival, there would be a food demonstration by Alice Bradley of Miss Farmer's School of Cookery. Her demonstration would include Chicken Chop Suey and Chicken Chow Mein, both which would be Kosher. Unfortunately, her recipes were not published in the newspaper.

The Jewish Advocate, April 17, 1931, published a different American Chop Suey, which could be made with any type of meat. The most curious aspect of the recipe is that the Chop Suey was supposed to be poured over Rice Krispies!

The Jewish Advocate, July 7, 1933, had another recipe for Chinese Chop Suey, which now used a couple Chinese ingredients, such as bamboo shoots and soy sauce.

The Jewish Advocate, February 23, 1934, ran a lengthy article, titled Chinese Dishes for American Cookery by Barbara B. Brooks, Home Economics Dept, Kellogg Co. Battle Creek, Michigan. It stated, "Few of us would find time to cook many of the traditional dishes." In regards to Chop Suey, the article noted, "It was created by the Chinese in foreign lands to satisfy Western tastes." It continued, "Ingredients are cut into shoestring strips, tiny morsels, or flower-like bits. Seasoning is all important."; It also noted, "There are endless variations for making Chop Suey."

In the recipe above, Rokeach Nyafat was a pure vegetable shortening that was widely used as a kosher substitute for chicken fat.

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Finally, there were at least a couple restaurants which combined Jewish and Chinese foods, although they were generally prepared separately, and not as a fusion cuisine.

The Jewish Advocate, May 15, 1931, had an advertisement for Miller's Delicatessen and Lunch, in Brookline, which offered "Real Chop Suey To Take Out." Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find more information about the nature of the chop suey they sold.

The Boston Globe, October 12, 1952, published a help wanted ad for Counter Girls for the Chit Chat Snack Bar, at 58 Tyler Street. The Tufts Medical Journal, Vol 21 (1953) had the above ad for the spot, and again, it said little about the type of cuisine served there.

However, the Boston Traveler, March 16, 1956, had a brief article about the restaurant, noting it was under a combined Jewish and Chinese management team, and it featured the cuisine of both! The article stated, “Chop suey and hot pastrami are staples; blintzes and chow mein are featured; and the patrons are as polyglot as the menu.” So, it seemed the two cuisines were presented separately, and not as fusion. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much else about this restaurant, except that in October 1956, it was up for auction. So, it only was in operation for about four years.

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So, why did Jewish people embrace Chinese restaurants so closely? That question has been previously addressed by numerous articles in the media. First, in New York City, the Jewish and Chinese communities lived very close to each other. As for Boston, that was true as well, as Harrison Avenue, and other parts of Chinatown, became a popular spot for Jewish businesses, from the garment industry to Kosher restaurants. In addition, the Boston theater district was close to Chinatown, and numerous Jews involved in the entertainment industry would dine at Chinese restaurants.

Second, generally the Chinese community didn't discriminate against the Jews, but rather welcomed them. Jews faced discrimination from many other groups, so finding the Chinese to be amenable to them, to welcome them into their community was very appealing.

Third, Kashrut is the set of Jewish dietary laws that define which foods are kosher, and thus acceptable to eat, and which are treyf, unfit for consumption. One of the kashrut laws was that meat and milk shouldn't be mixed, and Chinese cuisine generally didn't violate that law. Although Chinese cuisine did serve pork and shellfish, which weren't considered kosher, the Chinese commonly chopped up the meat and seafood to tiny pieces, so it has harder to identify them. Jewish customers could convince themselves that they weren't eating anything forbidden, that they were consuming "safe treyf." Newer Jewish generations also started choosing not to follow kashrut, so they had no trouble with consuming Chinese food.

Fourth, the Jewish tradition of dining at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day extends back over 100 years, and may even extend to the late 19th century. In Boston, I previously noted that in 1898, Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day were packed with non-Asian diners.

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that a fair number of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options.

As Forrest Gump might have once said, "Jews and Chinese food go together like peas and carrots."

Rant: Stock Up On Rosé!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 17 Aug 2026 12:57:02 +0000

The end of summer nears and Labor Day is only three weeks away. So, now's the time to stock up on Rosé wine, to ensure you have plenty for the rest of the year.

Once Labor Day arrives, many wine shops will stop carrying Rosé until the springtime. Wine distributors will generally stop recommending Rosé to their accounts. You'll stop seeing advertisements for Rosé wine and most wine magazines won't run any Rosé articles. This is all part and parcel of the myth that Rosé is only a "summer wine."

The reality is that Rosé season doesn't exist! It's a pervasive myth, a wrongful stereotype, that spring and summer herald Rosé season. The simple fact is that Rosé is appropriate year-round, even in the deepest winter. Many of those perpetuating the myth of Rosé season know better, but they choose to ignore the truth. Stop deluding the public and embrace the reality of Rosé every month of the year.

Sure, a chilled Rosé can taste wonderful on a hot, summer day, but it can equally satisfy when you are at home during a snow storm. If you can drink white wine in the fall and winter, there's absolutely no reason you cannot drink Rosé too. It's extremely food friendly, and there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't enjoy it with the same roast chicken or seafood dish you serve in the summer or winter. Rosé is also an excellent choice for Thanksgiving, a wine that can pair well with many different dishes, and a type of wine I frequently recommend to customers at the wine shop where I work.

The situation has slowly improved during the last several years but significant change is still needed. There are some wine stores, like Victoria Hill in Melrose (where I work), which stock Rosé throughout the year and if your local shop doesn't, then you should recommend that they stock some. And if they don't bring in some Rosé, then seek elsewhere for this wine.

Share some Rosé this fall and winter with your friends, showing them the potential of this delicious wine. Don't ask if they want Rosé but just pour them a glass. Once they taste the wine, they'll probably come to the realization of what they have been missing.

We also need more wine writers to pen Rosé articles during the fall and winter, to persuade consumers that this pink wine is appropriate during every season, and not just during the summer. Raising consumer awareness is vital to spreading a passion for Rosé year round. We need to correct their vinous myth.

I drink Rosé wine year round and strongly encourage my readers to do so as well.

Happy 2nd Anniversary To Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Sat, 15 Aug 2026 11:20:14 +0000

Happy 2nd Anniversary, and Best Wishes for many more years to come, to the owners of Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose.

Today, Saturday, August 15, is their 2nd Anniversary. Two years ago, when I first met the new owners, Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, it was with a little trepidation as we discussed their plans for the shop. That's a normal situation for employees when new owners take on any existing business. It raises a number of questions in your mind. What's their objective for the business? How will the business change? Will the staff be retained?

As I've mentioned before, their initial answers were very positive, and uttered with complete sincerity, so that my trepidations soon vanished. They wanted the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits store. They certainly didn't want to turn it into a generic package or convenience store, and didn't want to add lottery or cigarettes. They also planned on retaining any of the staff who desired to work there. Finally, although there would be changes, they hoped it would only be positive ones, those which would further their primary objective.

During their first year, I was pleased that they lived up to everything they told me on that first day. All of the new owners were sincere and hardworking, fully open to suggestions from all of the staff. Now, two years later, I'm even more pleased with the direction of the shop. There have been additional changes during the past year, and more changes are planned for the future. And all of these changes have continued to enhancing their original objective.

If you've visited the shop during the past two years, you may have seen Puja, who's the primary owner of Victoria Hill, responsible for the day to day operations. She has been instrumental in helping it become a destination shop, not just a neighborhood store, a place which attracts people from all of the surrounding communities and not just Melrose. In large part, this is accomplished by offering products that aren't available at many other local wine and liquor shops, including the big box shops. The diversity of their selection continues to always expand, and have been greatly embraced by the customers. Puja constantly and actively seeks out new wines for the shop.

For example, the wine selections, numbering around 600, usually include offerings from over 25 different countries, including less commonly available wines from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Georgia, Armenia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Mexico, Palestine, Ukraine, Slovenia, Hungary, and more. Wines from additional countries are also added when good choices become available.

The first time I've ever tasted wines from Palestine and the Ukraine was when they became available at the shop. I hadn't previously seen them at any other local shop. These have been delicious wines, indicative of the potential of these lesser known wine producing countries. And many customers have indicated their happiness at being able to obtain these more unique wines.

To expand the wine selection, adding maybe another 50 or so wines, a couple new wooden wine shelves have been recently added. These shelves have not yet been stocked, but plans are in the works to fill them in the near future. One element of this plan is to expand the Italian wine section, adding even more red wines from all across Italy.

The shop also stocks about 350 "Natural Wines," a significant amount more than a year ago. The term "Natural Wines," is used as an overall designation for wines that are Biodynamic, organic, sustainable, or similarly produced, whether certified or not. To more easily locate the Natural wines, you simply have to check the wine price labels, shown above, and look for an "N" in the right hand corner. More Natural wines continue to be added all the time.

As the holiday season approaches, even more wines will be added, included more higher end wines, which are great gifts for family and friends. If you are seeking more unique wines to give as gifts, or want to drink something special at your holiday gatherings, come here and we can find something to meet your desires.

The store also carries a variety of interesting and delicious Sakes, including Junmai, Honjozo, Ginjo, Daiginjo, Sparkling Sake and more. There are even a few Natural Sakes, which are very uncommon. If you need help selecting Sake, just ask me while I'm working and I'll be more than willing to assist you. We'll likely have a Sake Tasting around the start of October to celebrate International Sake Day, which is on October 1.

There's a chiller unit, which mostly contains wines, including Sparkling wines, White wines, Rosé wines, Orange wines and even chillable Red wines.

Besides the diverse wine selection, the Beer chiller also contains an excellent assortment, about 200, of craft beers and ciders, many from New England breweries, as well as some of the usual favorites, from Modelo to Budweiser. New beers and ciders are added all the time, including seasonal selections. And yes, pumpkin beers are now being stocked! Customers have been very complimentary about the beer selection.

The Spirits selection, from whiskey to mezcal, rum to tequila, vodka to liqueurs, is diverse as well, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Chartreuse, although such spirits aren't always available as only limited amounts are received. For example of the diversity, there are now Gins from all over the world, such as from Greece, Japan, Ireland, Mexico and other countries and U.S. states. Local spirits can also be found, from producers such as Barr Hill and Short Path.

There are a number of snacks available, from popcorn to potato chips, chocolate to crackers. There is also a chiller containing a variety of cheese, including a few from one of my favorites, Tillamook.

I continue to conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday afternoon, from 1-4pm. The tastings showcase diverse wines, exposing many customers to wines, countries and grapes they have never previously sampled. Customers have been very appreciative of this approach, and open to tasting more unique wines. They have often found new favorite wines, buying wines they wouldn't have purchased on their own, wary of buying a wine they've never experienced or knew little about. There have also been plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience these new wines.

On Friday nights, there are also often additional tastings, mainly conducted by distributors, of Wine, Beer or Spirits. Please come by any of these tastings to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines, beers and spirits.

Many thanks go to Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, for creating an excellent store, for carrying a diverse and interesting selection, and for being open to suggestions. They have worked very hard during these past two years, and it has been a real pleasure to work for them.

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out this destination spot as you are likely to find plenty of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. And please come to the tastings and learn more about the wonders of wines, beer and spirits from all over the world!

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm;

Sunday: 10am-7pm.

Follow the shop on Facebook and Instagram

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 13 Aug 2026 16:48:47 +0000

Appetizers - made with comforting family recipes for avgolemono soup, grilled dolmades and Papou’s spanakopita
Pitas & Bowls - customizable options with house made pita bread or Greek rice, paired with hand stacked and slow roasted proteins such as Harissa Chicken, Spiced Lamb Meatballs, and Roasted Garlic and Miso Pork
Salads - three signature options Kri Kri Salad, Shredded Cabbage Salad, and Greek Caesar with options to add protein
Traditional Plates - hearty taverna style favorites such as Baked Lamb Shank, Chicken Lemonata, Taverna Eggplant, and Pastitsio
Blackboard Specials - a daily rotating sustainable selection of fish and seafood, and additions highlighting seasonally foraged ingredients
Sides - hand cut Greek fries, tomato rice, orzo salad, and green beans
Sweet Touches - house made ice cream in flavors such as Greek coffee, Vanilla & Olive Oil, Baklava and the Kri Kri Sundae with tahini caramel and candied sour cherries. There is also Chef’s personal homage to the historic Chelmsford Ginger Ale with a nostalgic float
Beverages - A selection of imported Greek beers and funky Greek wines by the glass and bottle, alongside Greek café beverages.

The intimate space has indoor seating for 36 and a seasonal outdoor patio space will debut later this summer. In addition to dining in, Kri Kri Grill is available for takeout, delivery and has a corporate and events catering program. Kri Kri Grill is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and will eventually be open 7 days a week with extended hours on Friday and Saturday.

An Early History of Anchovies On Pizza: The First Topping

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Tue, 11 Aug 2026 14:32:05 +0000

Do you like anchovies on pizza?

Nowadays, many people dislike anchovies on pizza, and the dominant topping is pepperoni. However, that wasn't always the case. In fact, anchovies were the first pizza topping in the U.S., and were very common in the early 20th century. And there were people who criticized anyone who didn't like anchovies on their pizza.

Anchovies were common on pizza in Naples before pizza ever came to the U.S. Anchovies were cheap, offered much umami flavor, and could be stored well for a lengthy time. When Neapolitans immigrants brought pizza to the U.S., it was only natural that many of those pizzas would be topped with anchovies. Otherwise, the pizzas were just topped with cheese. Pizza likely came to the U.S. in the late 19th century, although documentation of such first appears in the early 20th century.

One of the first newspaper articles mentioning Neapolitan pizza is found in the Boston Sunday Journal (MA), October 4, 1903. It stated, “Scattered through North and Prince streets and other portions of the Italian colony where Neapolitans congregate are occasional little shops with the words ‘Pizze Cavuie’ on the windows. The words mean simply ‘hot cakes’ in the Neapolitan dialect.” The article continued, “Neapolitans in Boston say that there are few places in the city to which the famous Naples specialty has been successfully transplanted.”

The article also described how the pizza was created, starting with a fat roll of dough that was flattened until was is a little thicker than a pancake and a little larger than an ordinary pie. The top of the pizza was then topped with bits of lard, Roman cheese, cooked tomatoes, and aregata, “.., the spicy, aromatic herb which is a favorite Italian seasoning.” This would have been a blend of dried herbs like oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme. The pizza would then be put it in an oven for two minutes.

A pizza cost 5-10 cents, dependent on its size. It was also noted that, “In Naples the price ranges from 10 cents down to a penny for little ones containing only a good-sized mouthful. A favorite cry for them at the doors of the bakeries in Naples is “Ca’ pummarola e alice,’ which is dialect for “with tomatoes and anchovy, some of them being made with anchovy there, though the fish is never added here.” So, it appears the first pizza spots in Boston offered only cheese pizza, without any anchovies.

About two years later, a very similar article appeared in the New York Herald (NY), June 18, 1905. It seems that the two articles might have been written by the same person, due to some of the same content, although part of the article was directed to New York. For example, it was said that there were only two places in New York where you could get “real genuine Neapolitan pizza.” It continued, “One is on Spring street and one on Gran. All the rest are Americanized substitutes.”

The article described how the pizza was made, and that mirrored the information from the Boston Sunday Journal article. The article also noted, “Pizze Cavuie means simply hot cakes. You won’t find the words in the dictionary, because they aren’t Italian, but Neapolitan dialect.” It was also said that anchovies weren't yet found on any New York pizzas.

A pizza definition. A book, Explanations of All Terms used in Cooking-Cellaring by Kurt Heppe (1908) provided the definition: “Pizza—a Neapolitan cake with oil, tomatoes and anchovies.” As we see, anchovies were considered a basic component of pizza.

There is then about a twenty year gap then in newspaper coverage concerning pizza, which mentions it numerous times but provides little detail. Anchovies likely became more common during this period, and by the late 1920s, were dominant. There would be a few exceptions during the late 1920s and 1930s, but they were more outliers.

The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), February 6, 1928, mentioned the opening of Dante’s Tavern, and some of their some specials included “pizza d’anchovies, pizza di sardi and pizza di formaggio.” Pizza with anchovies, sardines or cheese.

The Passaic Daily News (NJ), December 13, 1928, noted that pizza was a cake or pie that was topped by tomatoes, anchovies, and cheese.

The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, provided a bit more description. “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period.

The Record (NJ), July 1, 1933, added that in New York, “A pizza is an Italian pancake which comes in two sizes, the smaller about 14 inches in diameter and the larger fully two feet. With both go tomatoes, anchovies, cheese and other delicacies. The cost is 25 cents for one and 35 cents for the other. The pancakes are baked in a huge brick oven,…”

Pizza in California! The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1933, mentioned that Antonio Farina was “known as the greatest man cook in the Italian quarter…” The article continued, his special dish was pizza, “Pizza, made only in Naples, and Farina is the only man who can make it properly in San Francisco.” It added, "It’s a concoction of special dough, oil, cheese, tomatoes, thyme and many other more mysterious things. Sometimes anchovy is substituted for the cheese.”

The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such.

The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued, “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie."

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), April 26, 1935, provided a recipe for Italian Pie, or Pizza, and you can see anchovies were one of the ingredients. Other ingredients included tomatoes, garlic, cloves, pepper and olive oil. But, no cheese.

The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), September 6, 1935, had an PIC of ad for Colucci’s Pizzeria, noting it sold “Pizza with mazzarella, anchovies, fried pepper, mushrooms.” This is the first mention I found of adding mushrooms to a pizza.

The New York Post (NY), September 20, 1935, ran an article with the above title. The article stated, “The anchovy wing of pizza lovers rose up in protest today at the disclosure that a cop yesterday ate three Italian pizza which were not garnished and garlanded with anchovies.” It was also noted, “The glorious pizza, they said, is not at its best if it is made largely of cheese, or if sardines are substituted for anchovies.” H. Paynter, a “culinary sage of Riverdale,” was quoted as saying, “Without anchovies the otherwise delectable pizza is a barbarous dish fit for savages who would gobble sparrows uncooked and with the feathers on.” Mayor Laguardi was also asked for his opinion on this pizza matter and he stated, “They’re too doughy for my taste…But if you want my recipe, here it is. A piece of dough, cheese, tomatoes and anchovies.”

The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 5, 1936, printed an ad for Jerrys Tavern, noting "During Lent Try One of Jerry’s Pizza With Anchovies.”

The Hartford Courant (CT), March 19, 1936, mentioned, “The pizza cook cannot be any Italian. He must be a Neapolitan, for only in Naples does it reach its perfection. There is at least one Neapolitan making pizza in Hartford, and he’s an artist at his trade.” The article continued, “The foundation for pizza is a round piece of Italian bread dough…the filling, which consists of a layer of parmesan cheese, a layer of tomato paste, a generous scattering of grated red peppers, and a thorough dosing of olive oil. On top, anchovies are generally scattered.”

A pizza recipe was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. It stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe.

The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), June 22, 1937, stated that you should check out Lupo’s restaurant, a true Neapolitan food spot, to eat pizza. “A young fellow was working at a table rolling and smacking a piece of dough into a circle about twelve inches across. Then he put bits of lard on it, tomato sauce and anchovies (or mozzarella cheese, which was introduced into California by the father of Al Santoro, the sports writer), sprinkled it with the herb basil and parmesan cheese, lifted it with a wooden scoop and set it in the flaming oven.” The pizza then cooked for about 10 minutes.

Another recipe. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), July 7, 1937, provided a pizza recipe from Henry Armetta, a “famous movie actor” and master cook. The recipe stated that a pizza would be topped with “cut-up tomatoes, anchovies, French cheese, and sprinkle all over with olive oil and ‘aregano’, pepper and salt.”

The Times Herald Record (NY), August 19, 1937, had an advertisement for a Pizzeria on Prince and the pizza was “Furnished with Cheese. Fresh Tomato or Anchovies.”

The Owens Valley Progress Citizen (CA), November 26, 1937, mentioned Lupo's restaurant, which I previously mentioned. The article noted, “Tried a new dish at Lupo’s Restaurant Neapolitan Pizzeria on Kearny Street and was introduced to pizza (pronounced pizzsta) an Italian concoction that’s baked in an oven, contains the amazing combination of lard, tomato sauce, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and parmesan cheese. You eat it hot, and like pie.”

Another recipe. The Miami Herald (FL), April 1, 1938, provided a recipe from a Miami woman of Italian descent. It was mentioned, “Pizza Napoletana is an unusual bread, layered with tomatoes and anchovies and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, thyme and pepper and brushed over with olive oil before baking.”

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), October 21, 1938, provided a recipe for “Pizza (Hot Bread)." Once again, anchovies were a listed ingredient.

The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis.

Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."

The Journal (CT), January 28, 1939, ran an article from the Philadelphia Record. It noted that pizza was a "new delicacy." It added, “What is pizza? Well, it’s just a big open-faced pie, filled with tomatoes, anchovies, mozzarella, cheese, peppers, or what have you—and baked while you wait. You name your own delicacy and the pizza baker will drop it in. Then it comes out of the oven—all golden brown and crisp,…”

The article continued, “The most popular pizzeria (pizza bakery) in town is Fiore’s, 1653 E. Passayunk avenue.” And, “The reason for Fiore’s popularity is Derigi Cecchini, the pizza baker. He learned his trade as a boy in Naples, the birthplace of pizza.” Hands not silverware! It was also noted, “It’s cut into pie segments and eaten with hands. Don’t let Derigi see you eat it with a fork. His artistic Latin soul will be hurt.” It was also mentioned that “Musicians and show people are great pizza eaters.” Pizza was so popular in Philadelphia that in the last 8 months, 9 pizzerias had opened on Passyung Avenue and 8 others had opened in other sections of Little Italy.

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), February 17, 1939, noted, “…Italian tomato pie, a fromagenous delicacy of tomatoes, bread crust, anchovies, spice, bacon or whatever else happens to be around and likely looking. A new dish to Washington, it is made at the Little Dutch Tavern (extraordinary misnomer), at 1304 Pennsylvania-ave se, the only place south of Philadelphia where the exotic business is conducted.”

Their chef was Anthony Camposano and he provided a recipe. Anchovies are mentioned, but so is bacon as a possible topping. Finally, it was mentioned that pizza should only be eaten with your hands, and not any silverware.

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), February 22, 1939, printed this ad for the Neapolitan Kitchen, noting that Pizza came with a choice of cheese, anchovies or mushrooms.

The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies.

The Boston Globe (MA), July 28, 1939, provided a recipe for Pizza Neapolitena, noting four toppings for the pizza, which you could use individually or in any combination. Those choices included cheese, anchovies, sausage, and sardines.

The Daily Times (Iowa), October 19, 1939, had a brief review of a cookbook, Herbs for the Kitchen by Irma Goodrich Mazza. The cookbook was “devoted entirely to dishes which the author believes taste better when herbs are used.” In a recipe from Naples, pizza was noted as “—a raised bread dough covered lightly with anchovies, tomato and marjoram and baked in a hot oven.”

The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), October 26, 1939, printed the above ad for the Fairmount Café, which offered Pizza with Anchovies for 40 cents.

The Dayton Daily News (OH), October 26, 1939, mentioned Lupo’s restaurant in San Francisco, and the article stated; the pizza was “spread with olive oil or lard, anchovies or ham, tomato paste and cheese sometimes of several types.”

It generally wouldn't be until the 1940s that other pizza toppings, such as meatballs, sausage, and pepperoni started becoming available and more commonly known. Anchovies were king for almost forty years, but then hit a decline as other toppings started being added to pizza. Today, you can find pizza with almost any type of topping, although anchovies are often still available.

Rant: Ugly Food Deserves Love!

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 10 Aug 2026 12:31:32 +0000

"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."
--Confucius

In the food world, where Instagram is immensely popular, you've been fed a lie. You've been led to believe that only "beautiful" food is worthy of attention. Everything is done to make their food look as attractive as possible. If a stylish and compelling photo can't be taken of a dish, then it's ignored.

It's a shallow and insidious belief, and easily spreads beyond the food world, so that people begin to believe that outer beauty is most important in many other areas too. It teaches the wrong lesson. We need to battle this lie, and embrace the fact that even "ugly" food deserves love.

The photo above probably isn't "worthy" of Instagram because sausage gravy generally isn't seen as appealing on a picture. It's often considered an "ugly" food, and thus not worthy of attention. It doesn't look pretty, and some might think the gravy resembles something disgusting. However, this dish, a Hash Stack, from Nick & Andy's in Danvers, is pure comfort food, a delicious blend of flavors and textures, and definitely worthy of your attention. It's a combination of hash browns, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, cheese and sausage gravy. This "ugly" dish shouldn't be ignored as it possesses its own "inner beauty," a food for the soul.

Chain restaurants understand the appeal of "beautiful" food and their commercials, often using a food stylist, work hard to depict their foods in the best light. However, when you actually patronize those restaurants, what you get served probably doesn't resemble the beauty of their commercials. It's another type of lie, one pertinent to Instagram as well. Restaurants may help Instagrammers take the best photo of their food, although when you dine there, your dish might not actually look like those photos.

In addition, a photo doesn't tell you how a dish tastes. All you see is the outer shell, and not what is within. Beautiful food can lack sufficient flavor and taste. It might be too dry, too overcooked, too unbalanced, too salty, etc. And ugly food can be the opposite, some of the best food you've ever tasted. We need to look beyond appearances, to get to the heart of what is truly important. Would you rather eat something that is pretty and tasteless, or something ugly and flavorful?

We need to stop promoting the idea that only beautiful food is worthy. We need to embrace the myriad "beauty" that is found in all dishes, even if on the outside, they don't follow traditional images of beauty. "Ugly" food deserves just as much attention and we shouldn't settle for less.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 06 Aug 2026 17:01:31 +0000

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) August is packed with reasons to visit The Wellington as the Belmont Center neighborhood spot celebrates National Sandwich Month, and the height of New England's summer with new seasonal menu offerings available throughout the month.

In honor of National Sandwich Month, The Wellington is offering guests even more value during lunch service throughout August. Every Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., guests who order any lunch sandwich will receive their choice of fries or side salad, plus a complimentary rotating surprise second side.

The weekly rotating bonus side will feature seasonal favorites such as potato salad, seasoned rice, and corn ribs, giving guests something new to discover with each visit. The promotion is available with all lunch sandwiches, including the Caprese Sandwich, Fried Chicken Sandwich, and New York Bodega Chopped Cheese Sub.

As the Dog Days of Summer are amongst us, The Wellington is also introducing new seasonal dishes that showcase fresh ingredients and New England flavors.

New menu additions include:
Caprese Flatbread ($21) – Heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, oregano,maldon sea salt, drizzled with aged balsamic and EVOO
Pan-Seared Salmon ($36) – Pan seared faroe island salmon, sautéed heirloom tomatoes, native corn, potato gnocchi, basil (available gluten-free)
Shrimp & Corn Chowder ($18) – Summer corn and tender shrimp in a rich, creamy broth

Adding to the summer festivities, The Wellington continues to offer live entertainment throughout the weekend. Guests can enjoy Friday Night Live Music featuring Malin & Friends from 8:00-10:00 p.m., Saturday Night Live Music with Morningside Music Studio from 7:30-9:30 p.m., and the restaurant's popular Sunday Live Jazz Brunch from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., featuring live jazz from rotating artists alongside brunch favorites. Whether gathering for cocktails, dinner, or a leisurely weekend brunch, guests can pair The Wellington's seasonal menu with live local entertainment all weekend long.

"August is one of the best times of year to enjoy everything New England has to offer, from fresh seafood and local produce to relaxing afternoons and evenings spent outdoors," said Joe Arkinstall, General Manager of The Wellington. "We wanted to create a month filled with reasons for both our regular guests and first-time visitors to stop by, whether it's for lunch, happy hour, or dinner. These seasonal promotions and new menu additions celebrate the flavors of summer while giving guests something new to experience throughout the month."

Non-Rant: Recent Food Highlights

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Mon, 03 Aug 2026 14:50:00 +0000

There won't be a Rant today, but rather a highlight of some of the foods I've recently enjoyed. I'm just not in a mood for a Rant, and would rather spread the joy of some delicious dishes.

An Extra-Cheese Pizza from Prince Pizzeria in Saugus. I've been dining here since I was a child, and this year, the restaurant has celebrated their 65th Anniversary. Their pizza recipe has remained largely the same over all of those years, except for a slight change in the cheese blend. It once was an all-cheddar blend but now also has some mozzarella. It's reminiscent in some ways to Greek pizza, but forms its own unique style. I regularly have lunch here, enjoying pizza, or sometimes other tasty dishes, like their Meatballs Sliders.

The "Cadillac" Sandwich at Anthony's Italian Specialties in Stoneham. Chicken Cutlets, Prosciutto, Fresh Slices of Mozzarella, and a Balsamic Glaze. You can also opt for Roasted Red Peppers if you want. I got it on a braided roll, and it's a huge sandwich, which could feed two people, or one very hungry person. All of the sandwiches at Anthony's are known to be quite large, filled with plenty of meat and other toppings. Their Italian is a hugely popular, as is their Lobster Salad available only on Fridays. Everything tastes fresh, is reasonably priced for the quantity and quality, and quite delicious. This is also another spot that I have been visiting for many years.

Coffee Roll from Donuts With A Difference in Medford. This is my favorite donut shop, a very old-school spot which makes more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones you find at many other spots. They are made in-house so they are always fresh, and if you're lucky, they may even be served warm. When's the last time you had a warm donut at any donut shop? They are also inexpensive, and you can get a dozen donuts for only $19, which is half-the price at some other donut shops. Their coffee roll, which is quite large, costs under $3.00, and is one of my favorite choices. A soft, fresh texture, with the sweet glaze atop it, and plenty of cinnamon within.

Whoopie Pies from Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich. These aren't always available at the bakery, but when they are, I'm always sure to buy a few. They are small enough for a single person to enjoy, and the chocolate cake is soft, moist and full of chocolate flavor. The whipped filling is creamy and has just the right amount of sweetness. A nicely balanced treat, it's one of my favorite Whoopie pies north of Boston. I also have to mention their Ham & Cheese Croissants which may also be one of the best, with such a flaky and buttery croissant, and often is served warm. Anytime I visit the Ipswich area, I nearly always stop here. As you should too.

Fried Lobster Tails plate from the Clam Box in Ipswich. Only available on Fridays, the fried lobster tails are one of my favorites. I certainly love their other dishes, from Fried Clams to Fried Scallops, but this is my top favorite. Each piece is a half-lobster tail, with a crisp and clean fried coating over tender, sweet lobster. There is drawn butter for dipping too. You usually get at least 7 pieces of lobster, making for a hearty meal with French fries and onion rings. Others have their own favorite clam shacks, but the Clam Box remains my personal favorite.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

noreply@blogger.com (Richard Auffrey) — Thu, 30 Jul 2026 15:10:19 +0000

Serving fresh catch since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature $2 oysters from the East and West Coast in their bar area from 3-6pm. Across town, Joe’s Waterfront on Boston Harbor will showcase buck-a-shuck local oysters all day until they’re gone.

3) Salt & Straw ice cream’s Summer Pies flavor series has officially returned, including the addition of a brand new flavor, Peaches and Cream Galette. Co-founder and head ice cream maker Tyler Malek has once again reimagined classic pies as five standout ice cream flavors, churning their flaky crusts, jammy fillings, and custardy centers into a suite of craveable scoops – available now through August 27th.

Additionally, Salt & Straw is debuting a new frozen treat, the limited-edition Tacolate Milkshake – an indulgent spin-off of their viral Tacolate, the nostalgic and highly sought-after ice cream taco. Available starting this Saturday, August 1st through September 7th, the Tacolate Milkshake blends Cinnamon Snickerdoodle ice cream with a Tacolate and is finished with a chocolate drizzle, whipped cream, wildberry sugar dusting, and half a Tacolate topper.

Flavors in The Summer Pies Series include:
Peaches and Cream Galette – A brand new creation: fresh peach ice cream studded with hunks of a rustic peach galette, and ribboned with peach pie filling
Wild-Foraged Berry Slab Pie – The beloved returning flavor, featuring wild berry pie filling and bits of double-baked pie crust folded into salted vanilla ice cream
Wildflower Honey and Lemon Chess Pie – Cultured frozen yogurt studded with lemon chess pie, sweetened with wildflower honey and finished with a drizzle of housemade lemon curd
Gruyère and Tomato Custard Tart – A savory gruyère cheese and tomato jam tart, diced into bite-sized pieces and tossed into a salt and pepper custard ice cream
Coconut Cherry Pie with Almond Crust (v) – Sour cherry pie filling and shortbread almond crust folded into coconut cream