aboutdogs

Puppy Training Program--Introduction

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 13:31:00 +0000

This is the first in a series of posts on early puppy training. When discussing dog training I believe personal experience is important, the most interesting theory doesn't mean a thing if you cannot demonstrate positive benefit in real training with real dogs. So, from time to time I will be sharing video and "how to" stories about puppy training.

However, I do not want personal experience to be the main focus of this series. I plan to present some research on puppies and general research on brain development in mammals to support a comprehensive approach to early puppy training.

In "The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior" Clarence Pfaffenberger tells the story of how he improved the success rate of Guide Dog for the Blind puppies from 9% to 90%.

Pfaffenberger took information on the critical periods in the development of puppies that Scott and Fuller discovered in their research at Bar Harbor and made changes in how Guide Dogs for the Blind was raising pups and selecting breeding stock. I believe similar improvements in the quality of the successful dogs from a breeding program are possible if we take into account recent research on brain development and learning theory.

I believe what we present, when we present it and how we present it to our pup is very important and over the next couple of weeks I will attempt to establish a sound basis in scientific research to support my beliefs.

Teach Your Pup to Retrieve, a Motivational Approach

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Mon, 28 Jan 2008 23:15:00 +0000

Whether you are raising a pup for hunting or competition, or you simply want to play Frisbee with the family dog, the play retrieve provides a fun outlet for exercise, is useful for rewarding the dog in training, and lays a foundation for advanced training.

Almost all dogs have some natural interest in retrieving. Your job is to bring that out and develop it to a high degree. Daily play retrieving sessions can begin as soon as you bring your pup home from the litter at around eight weeks. Just remember that your puppy’s attention span is very short, so end each session while your pup wants more — don’t keep going until she gets tired of the game. These methods work with grown dogs, too.

Typically, pups will show one of three different responses when introduced to retrieving. Some pups will chase a thrown or rolled object but not pick it up; some will chase it, pick it up, and run away with it; and a very few will chase it, pick it up, and return it to you. Most of the well-bred retrievers I have started as pups would chase and pick up; very few would actually return something to me at first.

These actions make up the components of a retrieve. Your puppy’s initial response shows you what you need to work on, and in what order, to develop a full retrieve in the pup. First, you need to stimulate the desire to chase. Once your pup will chase, you need to find an object your pup wants to possess or carry. And finally, you need to teach your pup to bring the object back to you. We will work on each segment individually and try to keep them in balance.

Stimulate the chase or prey drive.

Restrain your pup and tease her with a rolled sock or tennis ball and when she is trying hard to grab it, roll it out about two feet in front of her and let her go. If the pup runs to chase it, great; repeat several times. Sometimes an odd-shaped toy that bounces unpredictably will excite a pup.

Alternately, allow the pup to run loose as you drag a sock or ball on a string in front of her to tease her and when she is excited, toss or roll the object low and out in front her. Remember, your pup’s vision is not fully developed at eight weeks so if you toss too high or too far your pup will lose sight of the object.

Your teasing and a little tug a war should stimulate the pup’s prey drive and encourage your pup to chase what you throw.

Now that he's chasing, find something he wants to pick up.

If your pup will chase but doesn’t pick up what you are throwing, throw something else. You may have to try several different objects until you find one your pup likes to pick up and carry. If your pup is not interested in your new store-bought puppy bumpers, try squeaky toys, knotted socks, or Kong toys. Some pups like empty plastic soda bottles with some of the air squeezed out and the lid put back on. If you cannot find a toy the pup likes, let the pup pick something out. Just watch your pup and see what he is getting into around the house. I have started a couple of pups retrieving my old shoes. Once they get into the game you can switch them to objects you want him to retrieve.

When he will chase and pick up, teach him to return to you.

With all pups, work on teaching your pup to come to you when called in sessions separate from the retrieving sessions. Food treats work well with most pups for teaching a quick recall. Sometimes if you place the pup on the ground in a new area and run away calling to him, the pup will come to you.

In addition to using treats to get your pup to return to you, watch where he goes when he runs off with his thrown toy. Many pups will try to run to a safe spot with their toy when they pick it up. Some will return to their bed or doggie mat. Work with that. Sit on the floor near the dog bed and throw his first retrieves. When he returns to the bed you can praise and reward him with a treat for the good retrieve.

Now, this is important: do not grab and take the toy from your pup as soon as he returns. If you do this, he is not going to want to return to you. Instead, when the pup returns, get a hold of him and praise or treat him, but let him keep the toy. When he gives it up you can throw it again. You can also work with two toys. Once your pup returns and he has had a chance to enjoy your praise for that retrieve, tease him with the second; when he drops the first toy you can throw the next.

When should you teach your pup to wait for a command to retrieve?

If you find you have a physically tough pup with very high retrieving drive, begin to teach your pup to wait for your cue to go as soon as he is retrieving and really into the game. Hold the pup in a sit until he stops struggling before you cue and release him to retrieve. He will learn that sitting calmly brings the opportunity to retrieve, thrashing wildly doesn’t. A sensitive pup with soft or medium retrieve drive doesn’t need early practice waiting to be sent. Let this pup go for the retrieve as soon as you throw as it helps build his drive.

What about birds and the hunting pup?

Birdyness and retrieving desire are two different things. If you are raising a retriever for hunting you need to develop both. Make sure you introduce your dog to birds right away, preferably before he is 12 weeks old. Once he shows interest in the birds, throw some bird marks for him from time to time as he grows up as long as he is not too rough with them. If he gets too rough, put the birds away until after force fetch.

With a little effort and a few minutes of play each day you can teach your pup to retrieve. A solid play retrieve offers a fun way to get good exercise and helps build a close working relationship with your pup. You and your pup will reap the benefits throughout his whole life.

Pat Nolan

Article Questioning Modern Breeding Practices in Purebred Dogs

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Sat, 22 Dec 2007 05:08:00 +0000

A client sent a link to an interesting article titled:

"A new direction for kennel club regulations and breed standards" Can Vet J. 2007 September; 48(9): 953–965. published in The Canadian Veterinary Journal by Koharik Arman

Here is the link: http://tinyurl.com/2yhfvb http://tinyurl.com/2yhfvb

In it the author offers a four step plan for establishing a unique breed. He goes on to point out that continuing on that path leads to real peril for the bred. Here is part of his conclusion:

"The health of purebred dogs is such that the level of occurrence of genetically inherited defects is unacceptably high (31). Many changes within breed associations must be initiated to improve this welfare situation: this must be made a priority. Changes should include the following: 1) revision of Breed Standards so that equal emphasis is placed on function, utility, and type, 2) discouragement of selection for physical traits that are overtly detrimental to breed health, 3) obtaining of breed registries to introduce new genetics in all breeds, 4) institution of regulations on Founder population numbers of new breeds and upper COI limits allowable in registered dogs, and 5) the use of modern technology to monitor breeder compliance with new regulations. As stated by the late Dr. George Padgett, “if we want to make any impact in controlling genetic disease in dogs, we must agree that an ethical approach is based on fairness, openness, and honesty. While traditions are important to us and should remain important, they should be changed if they conflict with the exercise of our ethics as dog breeders” (32). "
Can Vet J. 2007 September; 48(9): 953–965. published in The Canadian Veterinary Journal by Koharik Arman

Interesting reading. I will post again on this article.

Pat

Training video, Teaching Hold

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:27:00 +0000

From time to time I will be posting video clips here before I release them elsewhere. I have one today. This clip is a nice overview of the the steps I use in teaching hold with the e-collar. The hold portion of force fetch is taught in separate sessions but at the same time as the force fetch. Then, about the time the dog is reaching out and to the ground in her force fetch sessions she should be holding and moving well and you can combine the two. I tried what are for me a couple of new techniques with this video. I used Ulead to capture and Camtasia to edit and add captions.

Teaching Hold with E-collar, Ponderosa Kennels and Maryland Dog Trainer Pat Nolan

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:15:00 +0000

I like this mix better than the first version of this video posted.

Motivating Retrievers

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Sat, 15 Dec 2007 13:34:00 +0000

In "Fetch and Carry" published in 1894 author B. Waters said:

"Much that is demanded of the dog in servitude (obedience) is contrary to his nature and inclination. He will work with endless enthusiasm and effort when in pursuit of prey. On the contrary, while he dearly likes man's companionship, he detests menial servitude. Only by making work accessory to the pursuit of game, and so blending the two that he cannot discern where either begins or ends, can his best effort be engaged..."

In the field training of retrievers the good dogs do not really need us to motivate them to retrieve. The field work has enough built in rewards for any dog that is worth training. The dog gets to run, jump, swim, retrieve and carry bumpers and birds. We really don't need to work at providing any other rewards.

However, in the yard (obedience) and in the training for blind retrieves for hunting and trial retrievers the work to reward ratio is such that we need to actively provide extra rewards.

Likewise, there is nothing intrinsically rewarding for a dog in finding drugs or a lost person or in the straight sits and fronts required of competition obedience training.

What's a trainer to do?

My next post will look at the problem of motivating performance and maintaining a good training attitude in field, obedience and working dogs.

Pat

Why I Train

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Fri, 14 Dec 2007 03:30:00 +0000

A friend asked a group of trainers on a Yahoo discussion group why we train dogs. I thought about it a bit and wrote a short answer. This answer is not nearly complete, I will add to it in the next few weeks.

Pat

Hi Donald,

Awhile back you asked for reasons why we train. I have thought much
about your question but refrained from answering for the same
reason I don't sing in public. In my mind my answer is beautiful and poetic, once committed to paper the words seem off key and not what I’d hoped.

However, because my choice to train field trial retrievers has in many ways set the course of my life, it’s too important a question to ignore. So here goes.

Why do I train retrievers?

For me the Retriever Field trial is the most challenging technically of all the dog sports. The competition is tough; there are many dogs entered in every trial that could win.

The dogs are unique and the tests so challenging that training must be tweaked for each dog. With varying terrain and test design every weekend, training is necessarily ongoing. Retriever training never becomes old or routine; it requires creativity in design and execution. The retriever is never “finished,” and after 25 years, I am still learning how to train them.

I have been privileged to work with dogs that continue to impress me with their athletic skills, their determination to follow through on a task, and their willingness to engage in partnership with me in a project that has arbitrary rules.

And I train retrievers because the experience has enlarged and enriched my life in so many ways. In the course of training and campaigning retrievers, I have:

… driven tree-canopied roads in Florida and marveled at controlled-burn pine forest, managed for quail …

… competed in custom-dug training ponds while keeping one eye open for gators …

… trained in the tiered ponds left by beavers as they worked their way down stream, building a new dam each time they worked off all the easy timber …

… seen the roads washed out when these ponds eventually fail in domino effect when the earliest ponds give way from abandonment …

… watched my children catch northern pike in the lake next to our summer training grounds in Northern Ontario, in answer to the loons calling us to fish every evening …

… trained in bug net suits to keep the biting flies and mosquitoes from driving us out of the country ...

… worked dogs in the eastern Sierras in ponds bordered by lush grasses, green from the irrigation water diverted to feed them, this surrounded by desert …

… seen a Merlin, America’s smallest falcon, tail chase a song bird through a meadow …

… witnessed an immature Bald eagle drive an Osprey off a pond in a battle for fishing rights …

… followed a moose calf for a half mile down a dirt logging road before it found just the right spot to reenter the woods …

… stood by my truck, the sun setting, soaking in the contentment that comes from physical labor and a day well spent, the evening songs of spring peepers punctuated by the thumping of tails and the crunch of kibble as the dogs finish their meal. ( added)

…crawled down a hedge row with my dog, surrounded by the cacophony of thousands of snow geese barking and yelping as they tumble in, landing all around us turning the cut corn field white.

… caught a glimpse of a mountain lion looping up a trail disappearing into the shadows one morning ...

… watched in awe as courting Red tail hawks flew death-defying aerial displays …

… trained on rolling Vermont dairy farms and in the sand hills of the Carolinas …

… tried to avoid, at one time or another, fire ants, water moccasins, black bears, alligators, rattlesnakes, sun burn, and frost bite, and …

… driven all night to get to a trial or to get home to my family.

Why do I train retrievers?

For all the above, and because the retriever sports have allowed me to earn a living and raise my family while working in the most beautiful of all offices, with dogs I admire, and people I enjoy.

Dog Tricks-- Fly's Rope trick, using Place, Fetch, Step or Hold

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 20:09:00 +0000

In this clip Fly is learning a new trick. Here she has to combine the use of her feet and her retrieve to pull a rope and then hold the rope. She has some trouble in this video, she is still learning the trick.

Dog Trick- Fly stacking rings

www.PonderosaKennels.com (www.PonderosaKennels.com) — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 20:02:00 +0000

This is a dog training clip showing a retiever working a child's ring stacking toy. Fly is a five year old Labrador retriever, she was 2 years old when this was filmed. Training this trick requires obedience, fetch, directional signals. Shot in the spring of 2005 with Pat Nolan