Hunting And Fishing

FLY FISHING

2016-07-24T05:18:00.000-07:00

LelandFly.com
Because you wanted to fly fish with the right stuff, We opened Fly Fishing Outfitters Fly Shop in San Francisco CA in 1985. Because you wanted to celebrate angling from anywhere in the world, We developed the most informative Fly Fishing Website in 1998. Because you wanted to improve your fly cast, We built the Leland Ranch and Casting Center in Sonoma CA in 2004. After 30 years your are our fishing buddies, and we only offer simplified choices and solutions to our fishing buddies. We SELL what WE FISH for on www.LelandFly.com. All product IN STOCK, READY TO FISH!

lucky shot

2016-07-20T06:31:00.000-07:00

Lucky Shot USA is a family owned business operating out of Orlando, FL. We repurpose US Military munitions, creating unique, collectible and functional consumer products. All of our products are proudly made in the USA.
Our bullet products are manufactured from 100% genuine, once fired bullets and bullet components, many of which we procured from US Military bases. THe 20MM, 25MM and 30MM cannon round products are made from casings that were once fired by US Military fighting vehicles and jet fighters and are also 100% genuine. These cannon rounds have been procured under special permission from the US Department of Defense and demilitarized according to their specifications. All of our products have been demilitarized, contain no active primer and are completely inert.

Archery Gear! Get It Here On BlackOvis.com

2016-07-13T03:49:00.002-07:00

Arrows have vastly changed over the years and manufactures continue to make small detailed changes every year to heighten our chance of success both on and off the field. Nowadays there are so many arrow options that you can shoot any hunting set-up that you prefer. You can stick ultra-lite and shoot a GoldTip Velocity or Easton Flatline, or you can hit hard and heavy by kicking into a Victory Archery VAP or Easton Full Metal Jacket carbon hunting arrows. If you’re finding a hard time selecting the right arrow, feel free to give our Archery Experts a call and we can put you in the right arrow to fit your needs. We can also cut and insert arrows to order for a small fee! Browse our wide selection of hunting arrows for sale below
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Archery Gear! Get It Here On BlackOvis.com

2016-07-13T03:41:00.002-07:00

DO you Know? How to Choosing The Best Compound Bow

Selecting A Compound Bow

Here are a few factors to bear in mind when buying a compound bow:

1 Keep Things Simple

If you are a novice, try to hunt for a bow that matches well with your body’s strength and proportions and consider all those extras down the road once you earn more experience. Despite all the industry yammer regarding the cutting-edge tech and the predatory bliss, but they are still a very simple hand-drawn weapon with some moving parts, usually fashioned out of usual materials. To put it short, any sort of technology really isn’t going to help you learn how to get complete command over compound bow any quicker than a simple, well designed one will.

2 Keep Your Physical Strength In Mind

Don’t go all starry eyed over a bow that claims to shoot arrows at 300 fps unless you really have the strength to pull its bowstring back enough to get that speed consistently. Despite the mechanical advantage of these advanced bows, you are still the powerhouse behind the string providing the power to make things work. Therefore, select one you can easily use and also one you can enjoy using.

Technical Considerations When Buying A Compound Bow

Axle Length

It is the total end to end length of the bow. Those with less axle length might be easier to maneuver, but many times harder to shoot and demand a lot more experience on the shooter’s part.

Draw Length

It is the total distance between the bowstring and the bow’s grip when the string is fully drawn. You can definitely adjust the draw length, but only up to a certain level, however, it is always wiser to choose one with the right draw length in the first place. If the length is too short, it will hurt your accuracy as maintaining reference points for aiming would become difficult. When the string is fully drawn, shooters have an anchor point, and a very short draw length can lead to a floating anchor point which would result in inconsistency between sots. A very short draw length can also result in an increased torque on the bow which can result in inaccuracy.
On the other hand, if the draw length would be too long, archers would naturally tend to lean their head back in order to see properly through the peep sight. That could result in an array of other problems like a bad back posture and shooting form. A bad shooting form can add torque and tension to the bow that leads to inaccuracy. In addition to that, this naturally results in a shooter’s bow arm, or the arm that is holding the bow, to extend more than it needs, which puts the shooters inner elbow right in the way of the string.

Brace Height

It is the distance from the bowstring and the bow’s grip at rest position, You might be tempted to go for lower brace height as it means much faster shooting speeds, but it will prove to be a lot difficult to shoot and a lot less forgiving. Seven inches is the most common brace height, however one should try out various brace heights before finalizing the purchase.

Draw Weight

It is the amount of energy required to bring the bow to a full draw and is usually calculated in pounds. Only go for a compound bow that you can easily pull back smoothly and slowly. What every archer, especially the hunters, needs to keep in mind, is the possibility of having to hold on to a full draw for a long period of time in wait of an opportune shot which could be really tough if you bow has too much draw weight. So it is important to match the draw weight to your strength. To check how much draw weight is right for you, test different bows and see if you can fully draw the string and hold it there for 30-40 seconds without your hands shaking. If you easily can, then that draw weight is right for you. Don’t worry about being underpowered if you plan to go hunting; a bow with 50 pounds of draw weight can easily kill a deer.
Compound bows also have a let-off, which helps reduce the pull archers have to exert and hold at a full draw of string. Therefore, when considering your compound bow’s draw weight, also look out for its let-off percentage.

Bow Weight

This is a must to consider if one plans to go hunting or even in any serious competitions. It might seem like the best option to go for a lighter one as it will be easy to carry around in the woods, but due to being frail, they also vibrate a lot more and hence is a lot more noisy.

Shooting Speed

Speed is a common talk among the archers and for the right reasons. Higher arrow shooting speed means more kinetic energy which means you can shoot heavier arrows at faster speeds that translate into greater penetration when hunting. Moreover, faster arrows shoot flatter, which helps in the downrange accuracy. Modern compound bows can shoot at more than 350 feet per second so do look for a good speed rating when making a purchase.

Bare vs. Ready-to-shoot

If you are a beginner, it is really important to understand the basic difference between a ready-to-use and bare bow. Compound bows are designed to use accessories like a sight, an arrow rest, or a quiver, etc. to make shooting a bit easier. Most ready-to-shoot bows that come in packages have all such necessary accessories already fixed to the bow. No doubt a bare bow can be fixed with accessories on a later stage, but it would require a lot of alterations and a lot more investment than buying a ready-to-shoot one.

Archery Gear! Get It Here On BlackOvis.com
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We are dedicated to assisting the victims of Human Trafficking.

2015-10-02T05:32:00.002-07:00

Good morning my friends

I have teamed up with west marine

Sales purchased with be used to Fund our safe house for children

Of sex trafficking

Here is the link of our project here in Virginia beach

Its Called the Butterfly house Facebook Website

We are dedicated to assisting the victims of Human Trafficking.

Bud Karas

Health>Mind+Body: Herbs we sell

2015-01-03T13:52:00.001-08:00

Health>Mind+Body: Herbs we sell: Listed below are Herbs i sell and endorse from there affiliate program The King of Medicinal Mushrooms, according to Sib...

Vengeance Crossbow

2014-08-28T16:48:00.000-07:00

At www.brownells.com

The Barnett Vengeance combines the center of gravity shift of a reverse-draw configuration with the reduced weight of the Carbon Lite Riser to provide a steady and accurate shot and arrow speeds up to 365fps. Vengeance features a 140lb draw weight, 18" power stroke, 7.9lb mass weight, 33.75" length, 23.35" width, adjustable pistol grip, and CROSSWIRE string and cable system. Package includes a premium illuminated scope, rope cocking device, Cross Carbon 3-arrow quiver, and 3-20" Headhunter arrows.

Baitfish and Fall Trolling For Walleye

2014-08-28T06:32:00.000-07:00

And Pike

You marking any bait? is a popular question many anglers ask when talking about trolling for walleye or pike. Finding baitfish schools being attacked by predators is an important angling skill for autumn trolling. Speaking with guides, our walleye & pike experts, about fishing large pods of baitfish as a piece of fish-holding structure gains perspective on your next trip on the water. Here are some of their observations on the importance of baitfish and tips on autumn trolling strategies.

The Walleye-Baitfish Autumn Migration
"In large lakes a large population of nomadic walleye live their whole life following and feeding on schools of bait," Baitfish, and following walleye, migrate in autumn from the main lake to bays and other winter-holding areas on our lake. Walleye start aggressively feeding on baitfish when the surface temperature reaches 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

In large lakes walleye-baitfish relationship is an example of how baitfish can be seen as a type of holding structure for walleye. Walleye will follow baitfish schools, gorging on them to build up energy reserves for the winter. Although bait is not structure in the truest sense of the word like that of a reef, conceptualizing schools of baitfish as a piece of structure will improve your catch rates this autumn.

Sonar and GPS to Find Baitfish
Rely on your GPS fish locator to locate baitfish and determine if the area holds walleye. While surveying the water, mark baitfish with waypoints. Once you locate plenty of walleye and gather sufficient data on their location in the water column, set up a trolling strategy accordingly.

Walleye-Baitfish Trolling Tactics
In the fall on the our lake run large crank-baits like Rapala's Deep Tail Dancer and Reef Runner's 800 Series as the fish are looking for a big meal…. run cranks above the arcs and schools of bait showing up on the sonar screen.

Working the outside edge of a school of bait catches more walleye. The lure is isolated and not hidden in the baitfish, making it an easy target.

Large walleye hunt in small packs. They wait for individual baitfish to fall out of line from a school and then pounce on the prey. Trolling crankbaits on the periphery puts them in an ambush zone.

Use planer boards to present baits with out spooking walleye. The in-line board gets the bait out and away from the boat, and into the face of actively feeding walleye.

Baitfish, Mid-Level Predators and PikeBeing a different predator, pike don't relate to baitfish schools exactly like walleye. Walleye and other mid-range predators likely attract pike more so than small-sized baitfish. When trolling, look for pike in the vicinity of other, smaller predators feeding on baitfish schools.

Marking Pike on Sonar
Baitfish are one of many details to constantly observes on your sonar, when marking plenty of shiners and perch schools in autumn. Pay attention to schools of shiners in relation to perch & walleye….Large, collected schools generally are a sign of peace and tranquility.

Take interest in an area when electronics display broken up bait. Usually this means predators like walleye are feeding on the bait, which in turn attracts pike looking to ambush the baitfish hunters.

Autumn Trolling Tactics
When identifying pike, go after them by running baits slightly above marked fish. Uninterested pike often move out of the way of the boat, but when aggressive they often bite on the first pass. Try a few trolling runs around the bait. Pattern is often one run outside the bait on the shallow-water side. Next, pass thought the pod of baitfish. Lastly, troll on the deep-water, outside edge of the pod. Repeat this pattern a few times before moving onto another spot.

When it comes to trolling baits, use Muskie Mania 13-inch Jakes and Ernies, Legend Perch Baits, and Hi-Fin Trophy Divers and mix it up between small baits and big baits. Fish often go on a pattern where they bite a certain size of bait for a few days. Then they suddenly won't touch them anymore and you need to change to something different to get the results your looking for.

The similarities in angling tactics between fishing for walleye and pike demonstrates finding baitfish and feeding predators are critical to autumn angling success. Yet, finding bait isn't enough. You must learn to effectively troll the large schools of baitfish and properly position baits in the strike zone. For many successful trolling anglers, this starts with seeing baitfish schools as a type of structure.

Game Cameras and Accessories

2014-08-27T16:17:00.002-07:00

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We love the outdoors as much as you do. It is our calling to provide you with everything you need for your next adventure. With an ever-growing selection of more than 15,000 items from hundreds of your favorite brands, the right product at the right price is our commitment to you… that and a service experience second to none.

Brownells

2014-08-26T11:41:00.000-07:00

Brownells is the worlds largest supplier of firearms accessories, gun parts & gunsmithing tools.

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Summer Walleyes

2014-08-24T07:59:00.004-07:00

ON Wawang Lake

If Ontario is best known for one fish it is without a doubt the delicious walleye. Trophy walleye fishing can be had at both ends of the province. In NW Ontario, Wawang Lake is a world class trophy walleye producer that rivals any other trophy walleye waters North America has to offer. Wawang Lake is a true gems of Northern Ontario and gives any angler a realistic shot at a fish of a lifetime. Rigging, bouncing bottom and casting or trolling minnow baits are extremely productive methods for catching big summer walleye.

Rigging
Many different styles of sinkers for rigging are available to anglers:
Banana shaped sinkers are most commonly used and often have internal rattles to imply extra vibration and sound to attract more walleye.
Slip sinkers such as the bell and egg styles are also good choices for any rigging techniques.
A Bait casting setup will work well but many prefer a spinning rod and reel. Preferably use a 7 foot medium action rod spooled up with 12 pound fire line. Next, attach a barrel swivel to the mainline and add an 8 pound fluorocarbon leader to your bait. Lengths of your leader will vary from 2-10 feet depending on bottom structure and where the fish are holding in the water column.
A great option during windy days is to deploy a drift sock and use your electric or even the main engine for small speed bursts to give yourself complete control of your drift.

When targeting walleyes with a rigging technique bites are most likely going to be very subtle. If you are constantly missing fish or if you find yourself losing fish immediately after hook up, open your bail and feed line to the fish when you detect a strike. As you are feeding the line accelerate your motor and quickly move your boat towards the fish and try to place yourself as vertical as possible to the fish. This will increase your hook up percentage by giving the fish a few extra seconds to totally commit to eating the bait and will also give you a much stronger hook set into the fish.

Bottom Bouncing
One of the most productive methods to cover water and locate schools of walleye is to drag a bottom bouncer followed by a colourful crawler harness. Work these bottom bouncers in an S pattern along rocky shorelines or sand flat when searching for early summer walleyes. Often these fish can be found exceptionally shallow and a bottom bouncer would be best switched to a split shot in 5 feet or less of water. Use either your main engine or electric motor to cruise these areas at speeds of 0.5 – 1.5 mph. When fish become finicky or pressured areas are targeted, incorporate speed bursts and neutral drops on turns to entice more strikes from docile fish. When selecting the right weight for your bottom bouncer, always use the rule of 1 oz for every 10 feet always use heavier weights in waters with current.

Another great method used to determine the weight needed is to always have your line in the water at a 45 degree angle. Using a heavier bottom bouncer is always a better choice rather than using a lighter weight. If the bouncers you are running are your heaviest and your bait is not making bottom contact simply add ¼ ounce split shots above the weight that is already in place on the bouncer.

Three-way rigging is another option for pounding the bottom of water bodies in search of walleyes. You can turn to this rig when electronics are indicating fish higher in the water column usually between 3-6 feet off bottom. Also be sure to match the length of lead to the sinker to the distance fish are appearing on screen. Often these are snag filled locations where walleye often roam. Remember to tie on a lighter line to your sinker than you have spooled on your mainline. This will result in only losing your sinker and not your entire rig resulting in loss of time and frustration over the course of the day or night. Crawler harnesses, leeches and minnows are but I find minnow baits to be most effective behind a three way swivel rig.

Minnow Baits
Anglers who use minnow baits on a regular basis will agree that big walleyes love them. Most have developed confidence in these plastics baits with hours of practice fine tuning the presentation. When targeting large walleye in use a very slow retrieve with small twitches. This has become a favorite method for hooking walleye along the shore especially fish that are tucked away in the rocks waiting to ambush schools of unsuspecting baitfish that swim by, on darker overcast days, along the rocky shoreline. Match your colors to forage available and when nothing seems to work switch to a bright color.

Monofilament line is recommended with a fluorocarbon leader when battling shore hugging walleye in areas that are riddled with rocks. The reason behind this method is that super lines such as Berkley’s Fire line will drive the bait much deeper than monofilament and the fluorocarbon leader is much stronger for rubbing on rocks than monofilament. When walleye are in these areas twitch these baits just over the heads of the fish and you'll be seeing a BIG difference on the amount of fish you'll be catching.

On you're next trip out on the water try some of these tips and be sure to observe safety

World's Largest Supplier of Firearms

2014-08-22T12:28:00.000-07:00

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Crab Salad

2014-08-22T08:54:00.001-07:00

with Tomatoes

Serves 4
Mixed salad greens, enough for a bed on 4 salad plates
1 1/4 - 1 1/2 lb. fresh Jonah crabmeat (claw and knuckle), lump crabmeat or king crabmeat
4 cups fresh local tomatoes cut into 1-11/4 inch cubes
1 cup thin sliced purple onion cut into about 1 inch lengths
4 lemon wedges, for garnish

Optional - we thought a sprinkling of fresh cooked corn kernels and some avocado slices would make this salad even better!

Vinaigrette
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 T honey
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 T rice wine vinegar
2 t fresh thyme, chopped, save 4 small sprigs for garnish
Pinch of salt and pepper
Shake ingredients in a closed container, like a ball jar, to emulsify

Scatter a bed of mixed greens on salad plates

Pile tomato and onions on top of greens

Place crabmeat on top and mix around with tomatoes a bit

Drizzle vinaigrette and garnish with lemon and thyme sprig

Summer Pike Points

2014-08-22T07:19:00.000-07:00

pike ON Woman Lake

Some points are definitely better than others when fishing for BIG pike! Reading water and being able to carry out a logical fishing approach is the most important part of the process. You can have the sharpest hooks, make the perfect cast and work your lure correctly but if you're fishing dead water, not much will happen. On structure like points especially, making good use of lure depth and fishing angles is really important. For the most part, points are things that stick out, with more than one side. A shoreline wall, for example, has only one surface. Depending on their shape and layout, a point can have four, five, even six 'lanes' or sides to work.

No matter the lake type, it's amazing how good points almost always have a similar mix of elements. For pike in the middle of the summer, the formula is actually really basic. So much so that is really has become cliché. We've heard it that many times! Put some deep water near it, on at least one of the sides. Add in some kind of lead-in cover like weeds or jumbled rock, and put it in a favorable location on the lake as it relates to travel, food and safety and you can hardly go wrong.

Some points are steeper than others, some deeper, some weedier and some shallower. Some have extended shelves or ledges and some drop much quicker into basin-type water. Like any other kind of spot, make sure you have a mixture of them to test out during the trip. If we had to pick six places to fish on a summer evening, at least three of them would be directly facing water as deep as forty feet with a big shelf and lots of new cabbage weeds. It seems like the longer summer drags on, those spots on the main channel side, main lake side or windiest side produce best. They're prominent, normally large and normally directly fishable with the boat over deep water the bulk of the time. You might swing the boat up into or near water that's 12, 14 or 16 feet deep, but water twice that depth is always a cast away.

It's been our experience that the largest, most noticeable projections with the most varied bottom type are the best. Smaller, more out of the way points produce big pike on occasion, but almost all the best big fish spots jump right out at you on a good map. They intersect spans of deep water, form travel barriers and just plain look 'fishy.' Are there spots on maps that look dynamite and turn out to be poor? We've fished lots over the years, for sure. But for the most part, good points are not hard to locate. Isolated, offshore structure with no shoreline links or spots for suspended pike take a lot more work to find and learn. Even a topo map of a lake with no depths will show you the major points to start checking.

Speaking of other types of spots (shoals/humps, open water, narrows, walls) good points are almost always the sum of their surrounding parts. In addition to the cover they have themselves, like weeds or boulders, they almost always have good and different areas very close by. Points where a lake branches off or narrows down are a good example. Points that stick out into deep water where you always mark or catch other kinds of fish like trout or walleye are another. With enough work and attention, you're going to find that the best points might not actually have pike right on them, but reasonably close by from one visit to the next.

Always try to fish a spot from a new direction or angle every time you come back to it. On points, you've normally got at least three choices: the tip of the point, the port side and the starboard side. Ideally, each should have it's own special character. Fish close to the rock itself, the bottom is like you'd expect: smooth, less than 20 feet deep and featureless. As you continue out towards the main lake from there, though, the bottom comes up to 15 feet, and suddenly gets rougher with more boulders, slabs of rock and lots of mixed weeds. That's normally the spot. Points are like any other fishing area in that they take time to learn once you've found a handful to try.

Crankbaits and spinnerbaits are two excellent choices for feeling around a spot and learning what it's like while keeping your boat off them. They cast a long way and generally come through rocks and weeds cleanly. With a crankbait, fouling it in weeds while you're learning your way around a point isn't a bad thing at all. Ripping it clean and/or letting it back out is a great trigger. With lures like Ernies and Depth Raiders, you can walk around cabbage and hit rocks over 15 feet down. Coontail weeds have always been harder to fish lures through than cabbage, even with weedless baits like spinnerbaits. If the weeds are thinner, weighted bucktails with smaller blades and less dressing also work well for working deeper parts of points. In the summer, you're normally better of fishing 15 feet and down for bigger pike, and all three lure types will get you there. As a bit of a sidebar, for cranking, long rods and long leaders really work best for me. Long, 'bullwhip' tosses with a leader 16 or 18 inches long saves your knot, saves your lure and saves big fish. It takes some getting used to, but long, tough casting leaders are the way to go for all-day bottom bouncing with crankbaits. Rods in the 8 to 9 foot range make it easy. That last couple feet of your line takes a lot of abuse cranking rocks and other cover.

Jigs are another good bait for picking points apart and feeling their ups and downs. A one ounce flippin jig with a trailer of some sort is great where weeds are thicker. Bucktails or twisters like you'd use for walleyes are just as good. Simply lifting the jig along and pausing it on bottom is a simple retrieve that works well. Popping a jig off a rock snag or ripping through weeds produces lots of pike.

You'll know you've got a winning point to revisit, invest time in and learn if you see or catch other types of fish off it. Walleye like the same points as pike. Without exception, the best pike points fished are also awesome spots for other species and in Wawang Lake this would be perch. Good points are naturally attractive to all kinds of fish, and in Ontario lakes are rivers, they're all over the place. Lots of favorite points will also produce great water fowl and wildlife photos. There's usually a diving duck, loon, kingfisher, heron, bear or other guest around for you to enjoy.

If you figure out that one part of the spot has a rocky ledge down 15 or 16 feet along one side, set up for long casts with a crankbait. Drive the lure down over a long retrieve, keep it moving and keep your rod tip low. Suspending lures like the Triple D are great here, running deep and staying deep.

If you find a small arm or finger of deep weeds off to one side, maybe try dropping a heavy spinnerbait or jig near it. Any type of presentation-related requirement is very case-specific. It's going to be your call to make as you learn the spot and what pike like on that type of water at that time of day or season. If size, cover, depth or wind warrants it, troll the spot. There are some days on big points in open water when it's simply blowing too hard to stay put and cast around. Trolling can be better. In the fall, this and freezing temperatures make the choice easier for you.

Good points for pike are almost always the same from lake to lake, and more than one type of point can be good and worth checking. As a final thought, and back-tracking a bit to investing time, reading and studying water, some great points are totally hidden. Underwater weeds that form a line that bends or juts out awkwardly are still very much 'points' in mind. So are extended rock flats off islands or shorelines. When you think about it, any and all types of structures have 'points' or 'pointed' elements to them. They may or may not be easily picked up watching the shoreline, islands or maps. A poor-looking rock face, weed bed or island might have a magic area sticking out from it. You'll only find it by putting in the time. GPS and even the best maps are pretty general. If things got missed. Drawing and marking on your own map is a quick fix.

With big pike, always remember that they're not going to be up and snapping every time you drop the trolling motor to fish. They're a tough fish to catch consistently in the summer. But when they do show up on a point and are active and in range, the results can be pretty awesome. Check your winners a lot, fish them at prime times, learn their ins, outs, ups and downs and you'll hit a big one.

More Images of Woman Lake

west marine

2014-08-20T14:59:00.001-07:00

I I am currently working with #WestMarine we carry a large selection if fishing gear here is some please check us out VIEW ALL FISHING

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ammonium >>>Sharks,

2014-08-19T18:48:00.002-07:00

Nitrogen Excretion and Osmotic Regulation All aquatic organisms must deal with the problem of maintaining internal homeostasis, a constant internal chemical environment in which that organism's enzymes can operate efficiently. As we saw earlier, this is largely a matter of osmoregulation, but other factors are involved also. Many marine organisms can get by with minimal osmoregulation since the oceans, where the enzymes evolved, are already a good environment; other marine organisms maintain their body fluids at ionic concentrations different from the surrounding ocean and must actively regulate ions. Freshwater also calls for active measures to maintain proper osmotic balance. One method to avoid having to deal with osmotic balance is to cover the body with an impermeable membrane. Many aquatic organisms do just that, but this protection is necessarily incomplete, because three other processes involve intimate contact between a water-permeable body membrane and the surrounding fluid. In addition, these three other processes demand large surface areas in order to occur at sufficient rates to satisfy bodily needs. These three processes are, of course, respiration, absorption of food, and nitrogen excretion. Well, actually, only respiration is required of all aquatic organisms; plants do not ingest food (although they do need to take up plant nutrients), and plants do not have to excrete nitrogenous wastes, since they posses the chemical machinery needed to incorporate N into amino acids.


*Nitrogen Excretion* We will consider the elimination of nitrogen first, a process technically known as excretion. Excretion is a necessary consequence of protein breakdown; when proteins are converted to carbohydrates to provide energy, the amino group is removed and must be dealt with. In the body, the amino group is quickly oxidized to form ammonia (or, at high body pH the ammonium ion). Ammonia is highly toxic and highly soluble in water. If the organism has a sufficient source of water, ammonia can simply excreted in the water. This is the course taken by many (if not most) aquatic organisms, particularly those in freshwater. In any event, ammonia must be dealt with quickly because of its toxicity. Ammonia will diffuse passively out of respiratory structures such as gills. It takes a lot of water to dissolve and flush ammonia, however, and each ammonia molecule carries only one nitrogen. Organisms with less fresh water available, such as some marine organisms and all terrestrial organisms, are not as likely to waste water excreting nitrogen one atom at a time. They will often invest some energy to convert the ammonia into urea, which is less toxic, has two nitrogen atoms, and therefore takes less water to excrete. Because it is less toxic, it can be allowed to accumulate in the blood to some extent, and many organisms have specialized organs to remove urea and other wastes from the blood and excrete them. Urea is commonly used as an excretory product in vertebrates, and is rarely used in invertebrates. Some organisms, such as sharks and snails, allow urea to accumulate in their blood to help with overall osmotic balance. Sharks, for instance, use urea in the blood to make them hyperosmotic in relation to seawater, thus they tend to gain water from the ocean and do not have to worry about dehydration. Some organisms go to greater lengths still to deal with nitrogen. Where water is at a real premium, even the low toxicity and reduced water loss possible with urea excretion is not enough. Uric acid is a purine even less toxic than urea, and it precipitates from solution, allowing the 4 nitrogen atoms per uric acid molecule to be excreted with just enough water so that the crystals don't scratch on the way out. It has evolved in two groups with major water loss problems - terrestrial invertebrates and egg-laying vertebrates (obviously an embryo can't just step out for a drink, and whatever it excretes is going to be very close by until hatching). Figure 1 shows the three common nitrogenous wastes. Figure 1. Common nitrogenous wastes of animals. Note that for each molecule excreted, ammonia will carry off 1 atom of N, urea 2, and uric acid 4. Ammonia is the most soluble, followed by urea and uric acid; the latter actually precipitates out of solution. *Osmotic Regulation* With the problems of respiration and nitrogen excretion settled (we will cover feeding later), we can now deal comprehensively with the issue of osmotic regulation. First, let's review the basic situations that aquatic organisms face. The most abundant of the salts found in the oceans is NaCl, sodium chloride or table salt. We measure salinity in terms of the number of grams of dissolved salts in 1000 g (one l) of seawater. Seawater ranges in salinity, but a useful approximation is 35 g/kg; or 35 parts per thousand or 3.5%. Places like the Great Salt Lake, certain tidal pools, etc., can have higher salinities; most freshwater systems have dramatically lower salinities. In seawater, the ions are dominated by Cl^- (19.353 gr/kg), Na⁺ (10.76 gr/kg), SO₄^-2 (2.712 gr/kg), Mg⁺² (1.294 gr/kg), Ca⁺² (0.413 gr/kg), K⁺ (0.387 gr/kg), HCO₃^- (0.142 gr/kg), Br^- (0.067 gr/kg), and Sr⁺² (0.008 gr/kg); other ions are present in trace amounts, including gold. Freshwater contains similar ions, but the amounts are highly variable and depend on season, amount of rainfall, type of rocks, etc. Imagine water of two different salinities. We say that the more saline solution is hypertonic (or hyperosmotic) in relation to the other, or that the less saline solution is hypotonic (or hypoosmotic) in relation to the other. If the salinities were the same, they would be isotonic (isosmotic). Osmoticity, then, is simply a comparison of the salinities (or, more accurately, the number of dissolved particles, including non-ionic compounds) of two solutions. It is important to remember that, in considering osmoticity, that you must have two different solutions to compare - it is a relative term. Organisms have, of course, internal osmotic levels which may differ from those outside the body. Basically, the same three possibilities mentioned above exist, and these are illustrated in Figure 2. hyper-osmotic hypo-osmotic iso-osmotic Figure 2. Three possible osmotic situations. Organisms in marine environments tend to be isotonic in relation to the seawater. In this case, they do not have to regulate ion levels, and are termed osmoconformers. They are typically restricted to narrow ranges of salinity (no great handicap in the ocean, where salinity changes are not common), and are thus termed stenohaline. Many marine organisms, both invertebrate and vertebrate, while they may be close to isotonic, will vary somewhat and need to regulate to a small extent. These organisms will have one or more of the adaptations listed below. Major exceptions to the above include sharks and marine tetrapod vertebrates. Sharks maintain an internal environment which is hypertonic to seawater. They raise their internal osmoticity by retaining urea in their blood. As a result of being hypertonic, they tend to gain water from the seawater through their gills and the lining of their guts. The excess water is excreted as a dilute urine. Marine tetrapod vertebrates, which evolved on land, have blood which is hypotonic to seawater. Since they breathe from the atmosphere directly, there are no respiratory surfaces in contact with the seawater, thus reducing the surface area over which water loss can occur. Still, these organisms do lose water when excreting urea (mammals) or uric acid (turtles, reptiles, birds), and when breathing; and they gain salt ions whenever they eat or drink. The only way for these organisms to obtain water is metabolically from the breakdown of carbohydrates, and by drinking seawater. This still leaves them facing net water loss and ion gain. There are two basic solutions to this problem. Turtles and birds have special salt glands (concentrations of chloride cells) near their eyes which actively pump Cl^- ions out of the body; Na⁺ ions follow. Thus, birds and turtles can drink seawater and pump the excess ions out of their bodies, retaining the water. Similar cells are located on the gills of those marine fish (or invertebrates) with hypotonic body fluids. Marine mammals have some of the most efficient kidneys known. Their kidneys can resorb most of the water from the urine, leaving a very concentrated solution of urea and salts to be excreted. They also are very efficient at removing water from the rectum, so that food wastes pass out with a minimum of water. By minimizing water loss in this way, marine mammals are able to survive on metabolic water. Freshwater organisms (and many estuarine organisms) are hypertonic in relation to the water and thus face a constant influx of water from the surrounding hypotonic medium; they can potentially lose important ions to that solution also. Therefore, the strategy among most freshwater organisms is to cover as much of the body as possible with an impermeable coat, and leave all water exchange to a relatively small number of cells. These cells will maintain the water balance, and the remaining cells are bathed in an isotonic solution. Cells can maintain osmotic balance by using ATP to pump Cl^- ions into the cell actively. These are the same chloride cells found in the salt glands of marine turtles, they just run in reverse. The inside of the cell becomes negatively charged, and other ions, such as Na⁺ come in because of this. Water that flows into the body of a freshwater organism moves into the blood and excreted as a dilute urine. Freshwater organisms, because of this active manipulation of their ionic balance, are called osmoregulators and are frequently tolerant of a wider range of osmotic concentrations, in other words, they are euryhaline. Finally, organisms in hypersaline environments such as the Great Salt Lake face problems similar to those of marine fish with hypotonic body fluids. They must actively pump chloride and other ions out of the body, and obtain water by drinking. Chloride cells are used by both marine and freshwater organisms to pump ions. In fish (both freshwater and marine), they are located on the gills (Fig 3). Because respiratory structures must have permeable surfaces for gas exchange, they are also a common place to put chloride cells on a body which is otherwise impervious to water flow. Another popular place is in the gut and kidneys; in both places ion concentrations are manipulated to get water to flow where the organism wants it to. Amphibians in freshwater locate these cells on their skin to absorb ions from the water. Chloride cells are also more common on organisms in habitats with changing salinity, such as temporary pools or tide pools. Aquatic mayfly larvae, which must use chloride calls on the gills (mayfly gills may be more osmoregulatory then respiratory in function) to pump ions into the body, increase the number of chloride cells as they move into more dilute water and decrease the number as the ionic concentration of the water increases. Figure 3. Diagrams of two hypothetical "fish," one in freshwater and one in saltwater. Main sites of ion exchange are the gills and the excretory organs (kidneys). Osmotic exchange also takes place across the lining of the gut (not shown here). The freshwater fish gains water but loses ions passively across the gills; to compensate, the gills actively pump in ions and the kidneys form a dilute urine. The saltwater fish gains ions and loses water across the gills; to compensate, water is ingested (along with salt), the gills actively pump ions out of the body, and a small amount of concentrated urine is formed. *Osmoregulation and the Transition Between Habitats* As a final note, let's consider the evolutionary history of how different groups of organisms have come to colonize all the available habitats in terms of osmoregulatory adaptations. Life originated in the oceans, and early organisms were probably isotonic, stenohaline, osmoconformers. Terrestrial arthropods, including insects, probably arose from marine arthropods which had developed water-saving adaptations in tidepools and other marginal marine habitats. Some of these organisms, i.e. insects, were later able to move into freshwater. Terrestrial vertebrates, on the other hand, no doubt arose from fish which had invaded freshwater. The freshwater fish had developed internal fluids more dilute than the oceans as a means of minimizing their osmotic regulatory needs in dilute freshwater, and the first terrestrial vertebrates, the amphibians, retained these relatively dilute body fluids. Vertebrate specialization on land required increased ability to deal with lack of water, and these water-conserving methods were useful when certain groups - marine turtles, crocodiles, birds, and mammals - returned to the sea. The main point here is that it was the osmoregulating groups that were able to colonize land, and this flexibility later allowed members of these groups to move into nearly all conceivable habitats (Fig. 4). Figure 4. Major groups of osmoregulating animals and the mechanisms evolved to allow them to control osmotic levels in their habitats. Amphibians excrete both ammonia and urea; reptiles both uric acid and urea; crocodiles (not shown) excrete all three. The failure of certain groups to make these transitions is also very interesting. Crustaceans, molluscs, echinoderms and a host of other marine groups have failed to move onto land. Those crustaceans and molluscs which have invaded terrestrial habitats are limited to moist areas, a consequence of the failure to develop efficient terrestrial respiratory structures comparable to the tracheal system of insects or the book lungs of arachnids. For the vast majority of marine organisms, however, the real problem is even deeper - the inability of the larval forms to survive in water with an ionic concentration much different from seawater. Most successful terrestrial organisms have elaborate mechanisms to protect the relatively delicate embryos from osmotic stress, while similar mechanisms are lacking for most marine phyla.

From > up > North

2014-08-19T13:32:00.004-07:00

Herb-Crusted Walleye

This is a quick and easy dinner solution that is a big hit at the table. You can use perch, walleye, tilapia, and probably any other kind of fish you'd like.

I find that everyone likes certain tastes, so feel free to spice it up however you like.

I will sometimes add more of the ingredients on top of the fish before putting in the oven for more flavor.

READY IN - 35 mins

Makes 4 servings

1/2 cup butter

2/3 cup finely crushed saltine crackers

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 pound walleye fillets

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Place butter in a 9x13-inch baking dish and melt butter in the oven while it heats.
Mix crushed crackers, Parmesan cheese, oregano, basil, salt, and garlic powder in a shallow bowl. Remove baking dish from oven and dip walleye fillets into butter; gently press fillets into crumb mixture to coat both sides of each fillet. Lay the breaded fillets into the baking dish.
Bake in the preheated oven until fish is opaque and flakes easily, 25 to 30 minutes.

PREP 10 mins
COOK 25 mins
READY IN 35 mins

2014-08-19T12:08:00.001-07:00

Firearm Maintenance: AR-15/M4 Reassembly

rifle parts

2014-08-18T16:41:00.001-07:00

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Fish Report From

2014-08-18T09:29:00.001-07:00

Andy Myers Lodge 4 August 2014

Weather has been relatively stable and pleasant with few, if any bugs. It has been a nice time to be in NW Ontario and the fishing the last several weeks has been very consistent which is all good because we've been full to maximum capacity with wonderful guests having a great time. Water temps have stabilized in the low to mid 70's ranging from 72-76 depending upon weather, wind, and area of the lake. Thermocline is thin at around 25-28'.

The walleye fishing can only be characterized and is being described by the guides as "stupid" meaning excellent and very easy with lots of quality fish in the slot and over 20-30" and as has been the case the past several years a bumper crop of eligible "eaters" 14-17". Spend your time on main lake basin humps, reefs points, and hard bottom areas just off of structures. While there are always some walleyes using the weeds and deeper grass, right now it is better now to target these areas during lowlight pm periods for any consistent success. Keep presentations simple with lindy rigging and jigging and no one should have any trouble catching walleyes on Eagle. As is the case this time of the season a number of live baits including crawlers, leeches, fathead and sucker minnows will catch fish but if you have big 3-5" pearl dace minnows in your bait bucket and you're on fish you should have an excellent day. Concentrate efforts on depths 20-30'. As we move through Mid August into early September expect the bite to slowly drop deeper as the thermocline does. If you are looking for eaters fish the concentrated schools and if you are targeting bigger fish or looking for a trophy look for smaller, loose pods, or isolated bigger hooks off to the sides or shallower/deeper of the bigger schools. The West Arm, Portage Bay, Viking Reef basin, Dead man's Reef, and walleye rock areas are all producing. The pm trolling bite is hitting a peak right now and the stable weather we're experiencing sets it up for day to day consistency. The stretch reef area, and Viking reef areas are two of the most consistent areas. Target depths of 50-80' with marked schools of baitfish running cranks off planer boards 8-15' down from 7-9;30 pm. Try some #9 flicker shads and Berkley flicker minnows besides the standard Rapalas, Storm, and Yozuris in cisco imitating patterns . The hotter and flatter the day the shallower and higher in the water column the fish tend to be especially the last hr of daylight. Expect fish boated to avg. 18-26" most evenings.

With the past several weeks of stable weather the musky activity has been good with a number of 50"+ boated weekly and lots of 38-47" fish. Sadly, even more big fish have been lost than boated as the fish are nipping with most strikes at boat side.
As far as locational patterns there is one common denominator, the fish are active but using a lot of diff types of structures and lure presentations even on the same day. The patterns are frustrating but simple....fish it all. Most action has been coming off reefs, rocks and rock related combos but go by and pass on a weed bed and you could be making a big mistake as some big fish have been encountered in weeds even in nook and cranny weed beds, small and seemingly insignificant especially if it has some reed, sand, or rock component to it or in often overlooked small coves. Then there's Big Muskies grabbing walleyes deep off the reefs. Get the idea? Those that have been most successful have been fishing not only the consistent named spots but also poking around on secondary spots.
Most action has been on cranks, minnow baits, rubber, and blades but the last week or so 80% of the eaters have been on blades and speed is key. If you can't keep up the pace with the bigger blades drop down in size and keep the speed up that's more important when it comes to actually getting fish to bite regardless of the bait style except for perhaps a Top water.
Considering the reports from across musky country the musky fishing on Eagle has been very good with always one of the best shots at a true Giant in NW Ontario and....with the way the season has progressed from spring to now, current and projected long range weather patterns, the steady increase in big fish action over the past 3-4 weeks, the stage is set for some of the best fishing coming up into the grand finale of the Fall Trophy Musky Hunts in Sept-Oct.

The Bass, Pike, and Lake Trout fishing has remained very consistent in patterns both locational and presentations with the previous end of July report with the exception of a few more bigger pike showing up shallow while casting for Muskies than in July. By next report expect that to increase, some big Smallmouth Bass should start moving up into bays and shallow humps, and a terrific pre spawn lake trout bite to start.
While we have had to regretfully turn away some last minute bookings in August because of full occupancy there are some scattered openings coming up at the end of Aug, Sept, Oct, to get in that much needed getaway at one of the most beautiful and productive times of the season.
We still have some prime time limited availability for the weeks Sept 6-13, 13-20, 20-27 & Oct 4-11, so Do Not Hesitate to call 1-888-727-5865 or emailinfo@andymyerslodge.com and come join us for a Trip of a Lifetime!!

Tight Lines
Julian
AML

Wawang Lake Resort fish report

2014-08-17T17:40:00.001-07:00

Summer Walleye: TIPS ON OUR DEEP CLEAR LAKE

Wawang Lake Resort

Thunder Bay, Unorganized, ON P0T

Canada

17AUG

The King group caught & released 57 trophy fish during their week of fishing – NICE!

It has been referred to as the dog days of summer, but we like to call it the summer walleye bonanza. July, August & into September are the best walleye producing months, and here is a quick explanation why.

During the summer, walleye drop to deeper water in large schools. Hundreds of fish group up together and hold, and move, on the edges of rock bars, the tops of deep hard bottomed flats, as well as over deep grass beds. Using your locator, and/or drifting these areas are both good ways to help locate these big schools of fish. Usually the fish are concentrated about 4-8 feet above the thermo-cline, in 20-40 feet of water. As the season progresses, and the water warms, the fish get deeper.
Walleye Jigs

Once located, the fish are easily caught. Jig/minnow, jig/crawler, or slip sinker rigs, like a lindy rig, are all good producers. Putting as many as 100 Walleyes in the boat is not uncommon, BIG fish are also caught at this time of year, as they seem to hold with the other fish at optimum depths. The use of an underwater camera can aid tremendously in searching out these fish. Some might call it cheating, but it’s more commonly refer to it as a technological advantage. A good locator only sees so much of the bottom, and most boats are rigged with a lesser A model of sonar, unable to pick up these schools of fish, especially if they are tight to the bottom. When found, a marker buoy, and good boat control are key to staying on the fish. Vertical jigging is a technique that is commonly used whenever possible on calm days, but on windy days, anchoring and slip bobbers, or drifting slip-sinker rigs with a drift sock can also produce good results. The schools of fish can move on these structures, so if your anchored and the bite slows, you will have to re-position on the fish.

Colors of jigs for fish on the clearer lakes can be critical at times, so be sure to carry colors like chartreuse, any of the foil colors, green, orange, yellow and even glow in the dark jigs. Dark colored jigs don’t seem to get near the attention that the brighter colors do. The amount of light that penetrates these depths is greatly reduced, making the dark colors harder for the eyes to locate. Brighter colors can be seen from a further distance, attracting more attention to them.

That brings up what time of day is best to target these schools of walleye. Heavy cloud cover will provide all day catching along with some of the best fishing you’ll ever exerience, but, clear, sunny skies it’s best to fish early morning to 12:00 pm and then 7:00 pm to dark. will be the best time to be out. However, we are dealing with fish so these times are not cut in stone. The flat calm sunny days can be the best of fishing, boat control is simplified, making it easy to stay right on top of the fish. Factors such as weak cold fronts and other various weather conditions, don’t seem to affect the deep walleyes as much as they do when the fish are shallow. Making the deep season bite fairly consistent.

Archery

2014-08-17T11:36:00.001-07:00

The Sportsman Warehouse

#Archery (G) is the #art, practice, or skill of propelling #arrows (G) with the use of a bow, from Latin #arcus. Historically, archery has been used for hunting and combat, while in modern times, its main use is that of a competitive #sport and recreational activity. A person who participates in archery is typically known as an "#archer" or a "#bowman", and one who is fond of or an expert at archery can be referred to as a #toxophilite (G)

#Bowandarrow (G)
While there is great variety in the construction details of bows (both historic and modern), all bows consist of a string attached to elastic limbs that store mechanical energy imparted by the user drawing the string. Bows may be broadly split into two categories: those drawn by pulling the string directly and those that use a mechanism to pull the string.
Directly drawn bows may be further divided based upon differences in the method of limb construction, notable examples being self bows, laminated bows and composite bows. Bows can also be classified by the bow shape of the limbs when unstrung; in contrast to simple straight bows, a recurve bow has tips that curve away from the archer when the bow is #unstrung. The cross-section of the limb also varies; the classic longbow is a tall bow with narrow limbs that are D-shaped in cross section, and the #flatbow has flat wide limbs that are approximately rectangular in cross-section. The classic D-shape comes from the use of the wood of the yew tree. The sap-wood is best suited to the tension on the back of the bow, and the heart-wood to the compression on the belly. Hence, a cross-section of a yew longbow shows the narrow, light-coloured sap-wood on the 'straight' part of the D, and the red/orange heartwood forms the curved part of the D, to balance the mechanical tension/compression stress. Cable-backed bows use cords as the back of the bow; the draw weight of the bow can be adjusted by changing the tension of the cable. They were widespread among Inuit who lacked easy access to good bow wood. One variety of cable-backed bow is the Penobscot bow or Wabenaki bow, invented by Frank Loring (Chief Big Thunder) about 1900. It consists of a small bow attached by cables on the back of a larger main bow.

Modern #recurvebow (Takedown)
Compound bows are designed to reduce the force required to hold the string at full draw, hence allowing the archer more time to aim with less muscular stress. Most compound designs use cams or elliptical wheels on the ends of the limbs to achieve this. A typical let-off is anywhere from 65%–80%. For example, a 60-pound bow with 80% let-off will only require 12 pounds of force to hold at full draw. Up to 99% let-off is possible. The compound bow was invented by Holless Wilbur Allen in the 1960s (a US patent was filed in 1966 and granted in 1969) and it has become the most widely used type of bow for all forms of archery in North America.
Mechanically drawn bows typically have a stock or other mounting, such as the crossbow. They are not limited by the strength of a single archer and larger varieties have been used as siege engines.

Arrow
The most common form of arrow consists of a shaft with an arrowhead attached to the front end and with fletchings and a nock attached to the other end. Arrows across time and history are normally carried in a container known as a quiver, which can take many different forms. Shafts of arrows are typically composed of solid wood, bamboo fiberglass, aluminium alloy, carbon fiber, or composite materials. Wooden arrows are prone to warping. Fiberglass arrows are brittle, but can be produced to uniform specifications easily. Aluminium shafts were a very popular high-performance choice in the latter half of the 20th century due to their straightness, lighter weight, and subsequently higher speed and flatter trajectories. #Carbonfiberarrowsbecame popular in the 1990s and are very light, flying even faster and flatter than aluminium arrows. Today, arrows made up of composite materials are the most popular tournament arrows at Olympic Events, especially the Easton X10 and A/C/E.
The arrowhead is the primary functional component of the arrow. Some arrows may simply use a sharpened tip of the solid shaft, but it is far more common for separate arrowheads to be made, usually from metal, stone, or other hard materials. The most commonly used forms are target points, field points, and #broadheads, although there are also other types, such as#bodkin, #judo, and #bluntheads.

Shield cut straight fletching – here the hen feathers are barred red
Fletching is traditionally made from bird feathers. Also solid plastic vanes and thin sheetlike spin vanes are used. They are attached near the nock (rear) end of the arrow with thin double sided tape, glue, or, traditionally, sinew. Three fletches is the most common configuration in all cultures, though as many as six have been used. Two will result in unstable arrow flight. When three-fletched the fletches are equally spaced around the shaft with one placed such that it is perpendicular to the bow when nocked on the string (though with modern equipment, variations are seen especially when using the modern spin vanes). This fletch is called the "index fletch" or "cock feather" (also known as "the odd vane out" or "the nocking vane") and the others are sometimes called the "hen feathers". Commonly, the #cockfeatheris of a different color. However, if archers are using fletching made of feather or similar material, they may use same color vanes, as different dyes can give varying stiffness to vanes, resulting in less precision. When four-fletched, often two opposing #fletches are cock feathers and occasionally the fletches are not evenly spaced.
The #fletching may be either parabolic (short feathers in a smooth parabolic curve) or shield (generally shaped like half of a narrow shield) cut and is often attached at an angle, known as helical fletching, to introduce a stabilizing spin to the arrow while in flight. Whether helicial or straight fletched, when natural fletching (bird feathers) are used it is critical that all feathers come from the same side of the bird. Oversized fletchings can be used to accentuate drag and thus limit the range of the arrow significantly; these arrows are called flu-flus. Misplacement of fletchings can often change the arrow's flight path dramatically.

Bow string
Dacron and other modern materials offer high strength for their weight and are used on most modern bows. Linen and other traditional materials are still used on traditional bows. Almost any fiber can be made into a bow string. The author of "Arab Archery" suggests the hide of a young, emaciated camel. Njál's saga describes the refusal of a wife, Hallgerður, to cut her hair in order to make an emergency bowstring for her husband, Gunnar Hámundarson, who is then killed.

Bracer, Finger tab and Thumb ring

A right-hand finger tab to protect the hand while the string is drawn.
Most archers wear a bracer (also known as an arm-guard) to protect the inside of the bow arm from being hit by the string and prevent clothing from catching the bow string. The bracer does not brace the arm; the word comes from the armoury term "brassard", meaning an armoured sleeve or badge. The Navajo people have developed highly ornamented bracers as non-functional items of adornment. Some archers (mostly women) also wear protection on their chests, called chestguards or plastrons. The myth of the Amazons was that they had one breast removed to solve this problem.Roger Ascham mentions one archer, presumably with an unusual shooting style, who wore a leather guard for his face.
The drawing digits are normally protected by a leather tab, glove, or thumb ring. A simple tab of leather is commonly used, as is a skeleton glove. Medieval Europeans probably used a complete leather glove.
Eurasiatic archers who used the thumb or Mongolian draw protected their thumbs, usually with leather according to the author of Arab Archery, but also with special rings of various hard materials. Many surviving Turkish and Chinese examples are works of considerable art. Some are so highly ornamented that the users could not have used them to loose an arrow. Possibly these were items of personal adornment, and hence value, remaining extant whilst leather had virtually no intrinsic value and would also deteriorate with time. In traditional Japanese archery a special glove is used, provided with a ridge which is used to draw the string.

Main article: Release Aid (Archery)
A release aid is a mechanical device designed to give a crisp and precise loose of arrows from a compound bow. In the most commonly used, the string is released by a finger-operated trigger mechanism, held in the archer's hand or attached to their wrist. In another type, known as a back-tension release, the string is automatically released when drawn to a pre-determined tension.

Stabiliser (archery)
#Stabilisers are mounted usually on the front of the bow below the handle and on the right side, below the handle to help aiming by keeping the bow steady.

A modern compound hunting bow
Using archery to take game animals is known as "bow hunting". Bow hunting differs markedly from hunting with firearms, as the distances between the hunter and the game are much shorter in order to ensure a humane kill. The skills and practices of bow hunting therefore emphasize very close approach to the prey, whether by still hunting, stalking, or waiting in a #blind or#treestand. In many countries, including much of the United States, bow hunting for large and small game is legal. Bow hunters generally enjoy longer seasons than are allowed with other forms of hunting such as black powder, shotgun, or rifle. Usually, compound bows are used for large game hunting and may feature fiber optic sights and other enhancements. Using a bow and arrow to take fish is known as "bow fishing"

Aluminium (material) - Used in modern archery for the production of arrows
Anchor point - a point to be touched by the draw hand or string when the bow is fully drawn and ready to shoot, usually a point on the archer's mouth, chin or nose
AMO (organization) - The Archery Manufacturers and Merchants Organization (now known as the ATA)
AMO length (measure) - A standardized length for measuring bow strings
Archer (practitioner) - One who practices Archery (a.k.a. bowman)
Archer's paradox (effect) - The effect produced by an arrow flexing as it leaves the bow
Archery (practice) - The practice of using a bow to shoot arrows
Arm guard (equipment) - A protective strap or sheath for an archer's forearm (a.k.a. bracer)
Arrow (equipment) - The main projectile in Archery
Arrowhead (equipment) - The front end of an arrow; also known as the head, point or tip
Arrow rest (equipment) - A device used to hold the arrow against the handle until it is released
ATA (organization) - The Archery Trade Association (formerly known as the AMO)
A.T.A (measure) - An acronym for "Axel-To-Axel", the length between the two pivotal axels which hold the cams onto the limbs on a compound bow.

Blunt (equipment) - An unsharpened arrowhead used for targets and small game
Bodkin point (equipment) - A sharp, pointed arrow head
Bolt (equipment) - A crossbow projectile; also called a quarrel
Boss (equipment) - A target, typically made from tightly compacted foam or straw
Bowman (practitioner) - One who practices Archery (a.k.a. Archer)
Bow (equipment) - An ancient weapon powered by elasticity used for hunting and sport
#Bowfishing (practice) - The use of archery equipment for catching fish
Bowhunting (practice) - The practice of taking game using archery
Bow string (equipment) - A fiber joining two ends of a bow for launching arrows
Bowyer (craftsman) - One who makes bows
#Brace (practice) - The act of attaching a bow string to a bow
Brace Height (measure) - the distance from the string to the pivot point of the bow's grip.
Bracer (equipment) - A protective strap or sheath for an archer's forearm (a.k.a. arm guard)
Broadhead (equipment) - A sharp-bladed hunting head
Bullseye (equipment) - The central area of a target, often for which a greater number of points may be scored when hit
Butts (location) - A practice field with mounds of earth used as targets
Button (equipment) - An adjustable spring-loaded contact for the arrow as it sits on the rest mounted in a perpendicular direction to the arrow.

Carbon fiber (material) - Used in modern archery for the production of arrows
Clicker (equipment) - A device used to indicate an archer's optimum draw length
Clout archery (practice) - A form of archery in which archers shoot arrows toward a flag (known as "the Clout") from a relatively long distance and are scored based on how close each arrow lands to the flag.
Cock feather (equipment) - A differently-colored fletch that indicates proper arrow alignment on the string (a.k.a. Index feather)
Composite bow (equipment) - A bow made from laminating various materials together
Compound bow (equipment) - A modern bow that uses a system of cables and pulleys
Crest (equipment) - Heraldic markings on an arrow used for identification or design
Crossbow (equipment) - A bow mounted on a stock that shoots bolts or Quarrels

Daikyu (equipment) - A Japanese longbow
Decurve bow (equipment) - A form of bow in which the unstrung tips curve toward the archer
Deflex bow (equipment) - A form of bow in which the entire length of the handle and limbs curve toward the archer
Drawing (practice) - The act of pulling an arrow against a bow string in readiness for shooting
Draw weight (measure) - The number of pounds of force required to draw a bow twenty-eight (28) inches

End (Practice) - A round of arrows shot during an archery event (rarely more than six arrows)
English longbow (equipment) - A powerful medieval bow; also known as the Welsh longbow

Fiberglass (material) - Used in modern archery equipment for the production of both bows and arrows
Field archery (practice) - Shooting at targets of unmarked distances in an open field
Field tip (equipment) - A practice head for targets
Finger Tab (equipment) - A small leather patch to protect the archer's fingers (a.k.a. Tab)
Fistmele (measure) - The proper distance between the handle of a bow and the bow string when the bow is strung (a.k.a. Brace Height)
Flatbow (equipment) - A non-recurved bow with a rectangular cross section
Fletching (equipment) - The stabilizing fins or vanes of an arrow (each individual fin is a fletch)
Fletcher (craftsman) - One who makes arrows
Flex (measure) - The amount of "bend" an arrow shaft provides; contrasted with Spine
Flu-Flu Arrow (equipment) - A specially designed short-range arrow
Footed arrow (equipment) - An arrow with a shaft composed of two types of wood

Game (target) - Non-domesticated animals hunted for food or sport
Glove (equipment) - Protective gear for an archer's fingers (a.k.a. Shooting glove)
Gungdo (practice) - The Korean art of archery

This is a List of #archery terms,
#Fletching showing index feather (a.k.a. cock feather - green) and hen feathers (pink)
#Hankyu (equipment) - A short Japanese bow
Head (equipment) - The front end of an #arrow; also known as the#arrowhead, point or #tip
Hen feather (equipment) - Name incorrectly given to the shaft feathers based on misunderstanding of 'cock' (leading) feather
Horse archer (practitioner) - An archer mounted on a horse

Index fletching (equipment) - A differently-colored fletch that indicates proper arrow alignment (a.k.a. Cock fletching)
Judo points (equipment) - A target and small-game head equipped with spring wires for easy location

Kisser (equipment) - A button used to indicate consistent vertical distance when drawing a bow
#Kyudo (practice) - The Japanese art of archery
Longbow (equipment) - A tall wooden bow with a ‘D’ shaped cross-section, approximately the same height as the archer, without significant recurve
Loose (practice) - The act of shooting an arrow from a bow (a.k.a. Release)
Laminated Bow (equipment) - A bow with different materials laminated together to make a single bow.
Limb (equipment) - The upper and lower arms of a bow.
Longrod (equipment) - Rod attached to the bow to dampen vibration.

Mounted archer (practitioner) - An archer mounted on a horse
#Mongoliandraw (practice) - The act of drawing a bow with one's thumb (a.k.a. Mongolian release)

Nock (equipment) - The notch at the rear end of an arrow; also the notches at the ends of the bow limbs to which the bowstring is attached, or looped over.
Nock (practice) - The act of setting an arrow in a bow
Nocking point (equipment) - The point on a bow string over which an arrow nock is placed

Overdrawn (measure) - A condition in which a bow string is too short for the bow; fistmele is exceeded

Plunger/Pressure button (equipment) - A device used to correct an arrow's flex at the point of release
#Point (equipment) - The front end of an arrow; also known as the arrowhead, head or tip
Poisons (equipment) - Toxic additions to arrow heads in order to increase hunting effectiveness

Quarrel (equipment) - A crossbow projectile; also called a bolt
Quiver (equipment) - A container for an archer's projectiles

#Recurvebow (equipment) - A form of bow in which the unstrung tips curve away from the archer
Reflex bow (equipment) - A form of bow in which the entire length of the handle and arms curve away from the archer
Release (practice) - The act of firing an arrow from a bow (a.k.a. Loose)
Rest (equipment) - A device used to hold the arrow against the handle until it is released (a.k.a. Arrow rest)
Riser (equipment) - The handle section of a Bow

Safety arrow (equipment) - Arrow with Wide tip or padded head for reenactments
Self bow (equipment) - A bow made from a single piece of material (normally wood)
Serving (equipment) - Extra thread wound around a bow string in order to support or protect the main fiber
Shaft (equipment) - The main structural element of an arrow
#Shaftment (equipment) part of the arrow upon which the fletchings lie
Shaft feathers (equipment) those two which oppose the cock feather
Shooting glove (equipment) - Protective gear for an archer's fingers
Spine (measure) - The stiffness of an arrow shaft; contrasted with Flex
Stabilizer/Stabiliser (equipment) - A weighted rod or set of rods used to provide balance to a bow
Stave (equipment) - A strip of wood from which a bow may be made
.Stacking

Tab (equipment) - A small leather patch to protect the archer's fingers (a.k.a. Finger tab)
Target (equipment) - General term for the intended destination of a shot arrow
#Targetarchery (practice) - Shooting at non-moving targets placed varying distances away
Target point (equipment) - Bullet-shaped practice head for targets
Target shooting (practice) - Competitive event that uses projectile weapons for tests of proficiency
Thumb ring (equipment) - Protective ring for an archer's thumb
#Tip (equipment) - Either (especially the top) end of the bow, as differentiated from the point of an arrow

#Upshot - The last shot in an archery contest.

#Vane (equipment) - The stabilizing fin of an arrow

#Wandshoot (practice) - An archery event in which arrows are shot at a slat of soft wood that is typically 6' tall and 2" wide
Welsh longbow (equipment) - A powerful medieval bow; also known as the English longbow
Wood (material) - The earliest material used for the construction of bows and arrows

#Yabusame (practice) - A type of mounted archery practiced in Japan
Yew (material) - A type of wood traditionally used to make bows[3]
#Yumi (equipment) - An asymmetric Japanese bow; includes both long and short varieties (daikyu and hankyu)

Fishing Tackle

2014-08-16T05:39:00.001-07:00

Spoons For Walleyes

When using spoons for walleyes, most anglers assume the method is vertically fishing heavy jigging spoons in deep water. With apologies to the heavy-metal brigade, when it comes to trolling spoons, thin is in.

Flutterspoons–thin, lightweight, flexible spoons commonly used by trout and salmon anglers–have superb applications for walleyes. Their use for walleyes originated among Great Lakes trollers pursuing salmon and trout, whereupon anglers began stumbling upon excellent catches of lunker walleyes. From there, the technique evolved into full-fledged systems for giant ‘eyes.

Flutterspoons have three main characteristics separating them from other lure families commonly used for walleyes: (1) they’re thin, lightweight, and have no diving characteristics of their own; therefore, some type of weight, diver, or diving lure is needed to take them down to the desired depth; (2) spoons run at higher speeds than most walleye presentations, with many performing admirably from just over 1 to about 3 mph, sometimes faster; and (3) spoons feature attractive combinations of wobble, flash, and color to trigger walleye strikes while quickly eliminating unproductive water.

Unlike wide casting spoons or thick casting spoons, flutterspoons are thin and flexible with little weight. Most are also relatively narrow. Minor size, shape, and thickness variations give each manufacturer’s models a unique blend of attributes.

While trout and salmon anglers frequently use a range of flutterspoon sizes, walleye fishermen tend to prefer the smaller sizes. For example, the standard size Michigan Stinger (Advance Tackle) is 3 3/4 inches long x 3/4 inches wide; the smaller Scorpion, a popular walleye lure, is only 2 1/4 inches long x 1/2 inches wide. Pro King Tackle offers the standard Pro King and smaller Pro Spoon. Wolverine Tackle’s Silver Streak features numerous models including the standard 300 series and the smaller Mini Streak 200 series. Day in and day out, the smaller versions of these spoons seem to trigger walleyes best, although, at times, slightly larger spoons, like the Silver Leaf Spoon now marketed by Erie Dearie, can be dynamite.

Flutterspoons also come in an extensive range of colors and hues with exotic names as colorful as their patterns. Two of the current rages on Lake Erie are Monkey Puke (green and gold) and Kevorkian or Dr. Death (a purple-pink combo considered deadly in deep water). Other areas, like Saginaw Bay, might favor different combos. As always, hot color patterns change throughout the seasons according to available forage, water clarity, and weather conditions.

Delivery Systems
Spoons allow faster fishing than spinners and most crankbaits, and they easily cover larger areas and at varied depths with the same rigging. Directional divers like Luhr-Jensen’s Dipsey Diver are perfectly geared to spoons. Angled divers tied in-line to your main line, with a 5- or 6-foot leader, will dive down at a preset, adjustable angle, either straight below the boat or at some angle to either side. This allows you to set out numerous rods, with planers set to dive down and out at different angles, to strain the water column.

Anglers also troll small spoons on a three-way rig, removing the traditional sinker and replacing it with a deep-diving crankbait like a Hot’N Tot. This takes the spoon down to the desired depth. Different crankbaits sizes can be used to target different depths. And obviously, it provides the chance to simultaneously trigger fish with two different lures and to experiment with different lure styles, colors, and actions. Some folks even squirt or rub a little scent on the spoon to, in their opinion, enhance its effectiveness.

Obviously, any weighting system can be used to take spoons down to desired depths, though some form of diving system–be it a three-way crankbait rig or a directional diving planer–seems to be the method of choice when trolling lightweight flutterspoons for walleyes on the Great Lakes.

Double-Splice Wind-On

2014-08-16T04:52:00.000-07:00

Eliminating Wind-On Confusion

We have found a method which I feel to be the easiest. Using this method, a wind-on can be made in minutes with the least amount of splicing, gluing, wrapping, etc., and the result will be an extremely compact and reliable wind-on.

With this simple method you are creating a splice over a splice. This double splice results in a extremely strong wind-on that can be made much shorter .

Double-Splice Wind-On

When Constructing the wind-on leaders as illustrated at right, keep the following in mind:
To prepare mono for splicing, squarely cut the end you are going to splice into the Dacron with a sharp knife. With a lighter, lightly heat the end to soften and then tap the end with a finger to form a slight rounded edge or mushroom effect. This will make splicing much easier.
It is not necessary to scratch or sand the mono leader before splicing, and it is not necessary to splice more than 12 inches.
Use very little Superglue, as the substance dries very hard, and if you apply too much the wind-on will be quite stiff-- making it difficult to get through the rigger release clips.
When finishing off the Dacron/mono connection with half-hitches, only do enough to cover the joint, and make them as neat as possible.
Wind-on leaders do not have to be changed with each catch or after each day of fishing. Treat them as you would any other leader or tackle. Check them for signs of wear and tear and replace if required.
When bringing a fish alongside, do not grab the wind-on where the Dacron covers the leader (actual splice). If grabbed here with enough pressure, the leader will slip out of the Dacron and everything is gone.
Danger! When bringing a fish alongside, there is potential for serious injury with wind-on leaders if the fish is so close to the boat that there is no line or leader in the water to create some resistance. If at this point the fish decides to take off and you pull the hook -- watch out. You have a bent rod and a reel probably in full drag. If the hook pulls, it's all coming back at you like it was shot from a crossbow.

This article first appeared in the 'Tips & Techniques' section of the September '96 issue of Marlin Magazine and is reprinted here with permission. Be sure to check out www.marlinmag.com for other outstanding sportfishing articles!

Since 1985, the Hunter Banks Co. has been fly fishing the South and serving as the regions full service fly fishing retailer focused on offering the best products and customer service in the industry.

We are proud to carry the premium fly fishing equipment from brands such as Simms, Sage, Orvis, Abel, Lamson, Rio, Scientific Anglers, Smith Optics, Nautilus, and many others. Our website features hundreds of fly fishing products of the highest quality. We ship all orders received before 2PM EST the same day with typical FedEx ground delivery reaching most East Coast customers in 3 days or less.

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FLY FISHING

2014-08-15T17:39:00.001-07:00

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SALTWATER FLIES
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ACCESSORIES
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