The title says it all really. La Maison Victor magazine has just released its virgin version in English! This is exciting news and I can imagine not a small task to create an entirely english version of an already established sewing magazine. But they did and we are luckier for it! Just last year, I found a beautiful dress pattern in the French version of La Maison Victor and a very very nice sewing buddy in Europe mailed me a copy of the pattern in exchange for fabric. Because sewing friends are the best friends. And no longer do we have to pester our sew pals or try and figure out why Google translates ‘pattern’ in French to ‘boss’! Of course I gladly signed up as a willing promoter of their first issue on the World Blog Tour. Inside there are a handful of patterns, not as many as the French version but this is okay because there seems to be good variety so far and it’s only a baby. It needs time to grow.

I chose the ‘Solange’ dress and I’ll just cut to the chase by saying that I didn’t expect to love it THIS much. Because it’s a basic and I struggle with this concept. Solange is a short sleeved, shift-dress with pockets and an exposed zipper at the back, meant for stable knits like french terry and friends. I didn’t have any French terry or stable knit fabrics but thought, since the bones were good, why not try and make it in something drapey. I didn’t want to go buy fabric and, to be fair, I just wanted slouchy, loungey goodness. As someone who has worn the same outfit of yoga pants and a black turtleneck all winter because a) I don’t believe in winter sewing b) mild life slump and health issues, I’ve been desperate for something fresh but not quite ready for full spring sewing. So I shopped my stash and found this featherweight grey marle jersey perfectly perfect to lift me out of black turtle stupor!

I was in no mood for fuss so I paired back (savaged) the pattern and eliminated the bust dart, left off the pockets to reduce bulk and did without the centre back closure. Call it laziness or design inspiration; I decided to leave the neckline and arms unhemmed and coverstitched the hem only. Partly, I really liked the unhemmed length of the sleeves when I tried it on and figured that, being delicate and silky, it worked to just go from fabric to skin without any bulk or fuss. It’s raw! Primal. Grrrr.

Already I love it. And I completely underestimated a t-shirt dress as an unexpected closet hero; ridiculously versatile. It goes with everything! You can wear it knotted at the waist with high waist jeans or leave it dress length with a blazer or over jeans with a kimono or by itself (with a slip underneath because its sheer and I’m a layyydddyyyy). Also, because its featherweight I can wear it tucked in and not have any bulky bunchiness.

P A T T E R N  Solange Dress from La Maison Victor

F A B R I C  Grey marle jersey from The Fabric Store

S I Z E 10

L OV E D  super quick sew (entirely on the overlocker / coverstitch) and the end result.

M O D S  Cut the back piece on the fold, eliminated pockets and back closure.

F I N I S H E S  Raw edges mostly.

N E X T  T I M E  I think I need a few of these.

I can’t think of any better excuse than to dust off the blogwebs on this fine autumnal day to join in the Indiesew Spring / Summer collection blog tour. I’m sharing my newly beloved Ogden Cami by True Bias. And she’s a good un’.

I’ve been thinking a lot of lately about what a truly awesome time in history it is to be sewing a hand-made wardrobe. When I first started sewing clothes for myself, a few years ago, I never imagined there would come a time when I lost all interest in shopping. Unless we’re talking about fabric / patterns / accessories to go with hand-made wardrobe. I honestly can’t remember the last time I stepped inside a Westfield to buy an outfit. So weird. And weirder still is I don’t feel like I’m making any compromise or sacrifice at all, sewing my own clothes. Being spoilt for choice when it comes to sewing patterns has a lot to do with it! A generation or two ago there a small core group of pattern companies, who may or may not have taken cues from mainstream fashion (highly debatable). I’m sure I would have hated the lack of choice back then, especially if it was a case of be clothed in handmades or go naked. But now, in 2017 there are so many new indie sewing pattern designers I almost can’t keep up. We are so lucky to have such variety of patterns, beautiful fabrics and niche sewing businesses, like Indiesew, popping up exclusively for us sewists.

We have much to catch up on. I have been sewing sewing sewing like a mad woman all year but just not blogging blogging blogging apparently. I’ve also changed track pretty heavily when it comes to style and the choices I’m making for my hand-made wardrobe. I’ve been buying lots of solid fabrics, hardly any prints and god forbid…linen! At some point in the last few months, maybe with impending Me Made May, I had a light bulb moment and realised that if I devoted a month or two to sewing some boring ‘staples’, filling the gaps in my wardrobe with good base items then maybe it would be more fun to supplement it with frivolous sews. Because at least I would have something to wear them with. It seems to be working and my resistance to basics is lifting! I’ve recently sewn black culottes, skinny jeans, cream palazzos, navy cropped pants. Basically, the basics.

Which brings me to today’s business which is to heavily plug the Ogden Cami slash camis in general. And why you should sew one. I have the bottoms department fairly well covered now but tops is another thing. I don’t even know what I like to wear on top any more! To give you some idea of my lack of idea, I sewed this kimono about two years ago. It has remained mostly unworn and not just because of the funny thing about not wearing garments before they’re safely photographed but also because I just didn’t know what to wear with it or under it. And buying wasn’t an option obvs. So there it sat! Step in…Ogden Cami. Hellooooo! Like everyone else has been saying, it’s the luxy staple my wardrobe has been crying out for.

The art of the cami is a fine one. And in my now-cami-knowledgable opinion the perfect cami is not too blousy, not too fitted so that it can be enjoyed tucked in or out. The Ogden hits that sweet spot, as you can see here I started with it out and eventually tucked it in. This kind of versatility is pretty great, especially if you find yourself with an almost entirely highwaisted wardrobe. Proportions are everything.

The Ogden is a relatively quick make…I was expecting it to be super quick but it took a few hours, possibly because I decided to french seam the insides because I didn’t want to change overlocker thread. I’m sure by the second or third, you could be in a good rhythm and knock one out in under 2 hours? Maybe I am just slow. Anyway, the instructions are friendly, there’s also a sewalong if you prefer more visuals but it’s pretty straightforward. The only mod I made was to reduce the strap width by 1/4″. I like a delicate cami strap, just aesthetics is all! Of course I will sew an army of Ogdens now, in fact I have another cut already…

Now seems like as good a time as ever to confess that this whole outfit is made by yours truly, bar underwear and shoes. After my first successful foray into DIY jeans, I thought I would have a go at knocking off a favourite pair of RTW skinny jeans that I paid a lot of money for but now doesn’t count because I’ve got the pattern and it’s mine to knock off forever mwahaha. These jeans are really deserving of their own post, which will come. They were like the third child I never birthed. And threatened to abandon by the roadside. However, what I will say for now is that this denim is noteworthy in itself. It’s from Indiesew and truly one of the nicest denim fabrics I’ve seen, sewn and worn. It’s soft, but snug and hasn’t bagged out so far.

This little Kimono I also knocked off a RTW piece of a friend’s. I loved the cocoon shape. I picked up a little of this jaw dropping printed silk from Emma One Sock a few years ago and it’s certainly magical but also crazy slippery and never stays on my shoulders, which I kind of hate. When I took these photos, it was billowing and slipping off and wind was blowing it off and my hair all over my face and it was a sensory overload!

I hope you’re inspired to DIY your own Ogden Cami! Be sure to check out the rest of the makers and their makes on the Indiesew spring / summer collection, tour line-up below:

It’s Spring it’s Spring! Out with the old, in with a new hand-made swimsuit. And a new format to sooth our information bombarded brains; instead of flipping back and forth between image and text, you can look at pretty pictures and leave (it’s o.k. I get it) or if you’re interested in the specs or just here for the dulcet tones of my blogging voice, it’s all business as usual below…

It’s no secret I’m fond of swimsuits. I’ve been pinning them mercilessly here for years, for no other reason than that I love swimwear fabric, I love prints and I love what a brand new swimsuit symbolises. A feeling of freedom; holidays at the beach, an early morning bodysurf, letting hair dry salty and tangled, that ferocious hunger that only an ocean swim can bring. A sensory summer love fest! Maybe there’s a repressed surf chick in here somewhere, only now she’s more about eco-tan than real tans and simulated ‘beach scenarios’.

You could understand I nearly flat lined when Heather from Closet Case Files announced that 1. she was creating a bustier swimsuit pattern and 2. would I be okay with being it’s namesake. Ummmm…access to bustier swimsuits at the press of a peddle forever? Let’s be clear here. It would be a honour to be the muse for any pattern; but a bustier bikini. Well, that really is the penultimate. And sure, it marries all the very best things about this sewing blogging community but it’s also an uhhhhhmazing pattern. One that I would recommend to you even if it were called the Jessica or the Savannah. Without further ado, my Sophie Swimsuit experience:

P A T T E R N  Sophie Swimsuit

F A B R I C  Floral Lycra + Stripe Lycra (similar here) Pitt Trading & Tessuti are current hot spots for beautiful swimwear fabric.

S I Z E  Bra 6 / cup 4. Briefs 8

P R O C E S S  The pattern comes with an option of an accompanying video tutorial. I love this idea, being a visual learner, and can’t help but think how cool it would be if every pattern came with a video option. Having produced a small video tutorial this year, and knowing the amount of time energy that goes into it, this would be pretty hard to sustain, but still. I used the video tutorial the entire way and glanced at the printed instructions for backup in only a few sections. As a bonus, it was kinda like me and Heather, hanging out, sewing a ‘kini in my loungeroom!

L O V E D  the fiddliness of the bra cup section. Having to be so meticulous and slow inserting the underwire channels, top-stitching the edges and threading the wire, is as close to sewing zen as I’ll ever get. The way Heather explains the process there’s no room for guessing. The result is 100% professional and you finish knowing you got new skillz!

F I T T I N G  As per the instructions I chose a size 6 for the bikini top, based on my under-bust measurement. Lovely. Here’s my advice: be a good sewist now and don’t play guessing games with Heather’s cup sizing chart, ok. She knows what she’s talking about. Especially don’t try and make connections between her cup sizing 1,2,3,4, and A,B,C,D, etc, like I did. My measurements put me between cup size 4 and 5 and I was all, nah-uh, there’s no way I’m a D/E cup. No, no, no. Just follow the chart. I cut out my size “”3″” cup, completely. Out of fabric, contrast, moulding, lining, everything. Luckily, you construct the moulding first, so you can try it on in the mirror to see if it will go around a boob. The size three covered like, half a boob. I had to go back and re-cut the entire bra in the 4. Even this felt like a major sizing compromise but now I think I could do with trying the size 5 cup. Hoping the 4 might become forgiving towards summer; more salads less roasts etc.

The fit of the bikini bottoms is bang on. Having made several high waist bikinis (here & here) I feel I am in a position to say that this is by far the most comfortable and secure. Assuming, you like a proper high-waisted bikini, that is. I cannot stand it when something claims to be high-waisted, only to sit an inch or two below the navel. Just no. A high-waist should rest on or over a navel, like this one, in my opinion. There it serves many purposes but mainly to act like secret spanx.

M O D S  I widened the centre front and back panels on the bottoms and reduced width of the side panels for more floral less stripe ~ Made slightly thinner bikini straps using the dimensions and process from this tutorial ~ Added boning to the side seams on bikini top. I was introduced to the idea here and really liked the extra stability it provides for not too much fuss to insert.

D E S I G N  N O T E S  You know it’s love (or something else) when you change the colour of the thread in your coverstitch / zigzag to jump from the floral to the stripe section. I also made three straps for the bikini top in total, the one you see here which stretches from one side of the bra hook to the other, plus another two separate straps out of the stripe for a neckband that ties up. A girl has to have options.

N E X T  T I M E  If it wasn’t perfection already, Heather’s gone done released a bonus download for a long-line version of the bikini top. Check out omg this one. I would definitely add boning again on the side seams and possibly along the two vertical below-bust seams, like I notice quite a few RTW versions have. How many swimsuits does one girl need? Guys, I’ve thought long and hard about this and…oh look mustard, floral zimmerman lycra!

I am so happy culottes are still around. I love that they’re re-spawning too, into a slightly thinner flared version I believe is getting around by the alias ‘cropped pants’. I have no idea, really, but their lengthy fashion term means this: we are spoilt for culotte sewing patterns! There’s so many so I’ll just mention a special few. There’s the Winslow culottes, with some serious pleatage going on and some very cool versions around. There’s the Galleria culottes; sleek and classic, not unlike their designer Sasha. There’s the newly released Emerson crop pant, which seems to sit somewhere between a culotte and it’s slender cropped cousin mentioned. There’s these you see here, the Style Arc Erin Woven culottes, plus a million more.

When choosing a culotte pattern, it’s important to know where you stand on pleats. You can have no pleats, a dash of pleats, or shimmy right on down to pleat town. These are your options and it’s a personal choice but consider this: pleats add volume, not just in the pleat itself but that extra fabric all has to end up in the width of the pants at the base too. I’m partial to some detailing at the front, yes, but also aware it’s only one hop and a pleat away from the culottes-come-parachute look at any time.

On the scale of pleats, the Erin culottes sit nicely around the middle. Literally. The slanted side pockets become part of the side pleats and then there’s a hidden, deeper pleat in centre front. The result gives some interest and detail whilst maintaining a mostly flat front. The pattern makes up beautifully in a drapey woven, as you can see in this white crepe version from the original pattern. But then I was also moved by Sallieoh’s version made from fabric with obvious body. After my first two forays into culottes were more novelty (egg yolk and upholstery) than wearable I decided to get serious and make pair that I would wear.

For the fabric, I was imagining something subtle and textured to make a classic winter culotte to pair with cosy knitwear. This cotton blend from The Fabric Store, triggered a vague sense of out of body-ness at the realisation I was about to buy something so khaki and muted. However, the combination of colour, knobbly texture and good bottom weight made them look decidedly un-hand-made, which I suspect is why I wear them all the time.

Sizing wise, I made my usual Style Arc size 8 (normally vogue 12ish, to give you an idea of the difference). They ended up roomy enough that I had to take them in through the waist and hips. The one thing I didn’t love about the pattern is the curved waistband. I feel like the way the fabric is sitting at the front pleats, it really wants to be hanging off a straight waistband and then sit on the waist. I feel like comfort-wise I want things to sit high waisted or on the hips, not in between. However because the pattern is designed to sit at the natural waist, it makes sense to have a curved waistband. I suspect it’s also better suited to lighter fabrics that won’t drag on the waistband, as in the original pattern version. A good press might help too, who was responsible for that?

The only mod I made was to add welt pockets using this tutorial. It’s my go to! There’s nothing, apart from a good solid stitch in the ditch, that feels as sexy as getting a welt pocket right. It’s legit. Any day now, my welt pocket scout badge will turn up in the mail, I can feel it. Like all new skills in sewing, underwires, invisible zippers, flys…welt pockets are only made intimidating by sewing folklore. It’s not to be trusted because they’re not to be feared. Once you get your first you’ll want to welt all the things, it’s natural. But try your first welt not on your actual garment…

Like Burdastyle, Style Arc instructions were once always light on the illustrations side, but I’ve noticed their more recent patterns include more diagrams at crucial steps, which is ever so nice. This may or may not be related to having some trouble with part of the instructions for the centre front here. As you can see the pleats meet in the middle instead of overlapping like they’re supposed to. The effect is okay, but if you’re making these, follow the instructions, don’t refer to mine for a visual!

I love this top patternnn! After the Birkin flares, I believe it’s the second staple in the history of my hand-made wardrobe. It filled a gap I didn’t even know I had! At the start of winter I was so SO close to buying a turtleneck. But I am ever so happy I decided to DIY instead of buy. The pattern is the Papercut Rise & Fall turtleneck. This is the Rise version in a scrumptious mid weight merino jersey with lycra from here, and it’s fab. Firstly, it’s a quick sew, less than 2 hours from start to finish including cutting. I sewed it entirely on the overlocker, then coverstitched the hems; which always makes for a happy sewist. And lastly, fit wise, it’s everything you could want for in a store bought turtleneck.As is habit now, I did some preliminary sleuthing and found that while most said they loved the pattern, they wished they had sized down. I sized down and the fit through the body is perfection. The only mod I made was to add 1″ to the sleeves. Next time I would add 2″ to the sleeves and 1-2″ to the hems but if you have regular length arms this wouldn’t be necessary. Now I’m dreaming of another version with above elbow length sleeves, in a stripe.

There’s nothing else to add, it has kept me toasty warm through a mild Brisbane winter and I need 100 more.

Pattern: Named Apila Shorts + self-drafted overlay

Fabric: Stretch cotton from The Fabric Store + silk for overlay

Size: 38

I’m not sure what’s happening to time but as I get closer to thirty, it feels like I’m living in a vacuum. I made this skirt in September last year, SEPTEMBER!  I stole the idea directly from this skirt, which I had pinned to a summer sewing ideas board even before that. It was one of those ideas that probably wouldn’t have come to fruition if I didn’t accidentally find the perfect fabric. I would never have gone looking something sheer and panelled but as it happened I was searching for something else on Etsy, possibly trims, and came across it.

Buying fabric online is a game of roulette I like to play. It either goes one of two ways: the fabric turns up and it’s exactly what you were hoping, or it turns up and you realise the monitor lied, the texture is weird and it smells like old person. Happily, this fabric was the former! I’ve bought a few pieces from Lazy Ruler before and never been disappointed with the quality. They always seem to source some truly unique fabrics from who knows where. This one is absolutely d.i.v.i.n.e; a beautiful natural coloured slubby silk with sections of sheer organza-like something in between. It was sold in panels so I figured the length would be good for a midi skirt and two panels would be enough to go around front and back with some sort of pleatage. Plus an extra panel incase of f&$* ups.

As for a plan…nada! I thought a good place to start was to find a high waisted pattern for the undershorts, with a side zipper and a relatively slim leg so as not so have too much volume with my volume. The Named Apila shorts were perfect! I had the pattern in the stash from a bulk buy-up of their second pattern collection, which I am still yet to make up anything from …Ailakki jumpsuit, Vanamo two-piece. Heart eyes! Shame face.

Construction wise, I made up the shorts all but attaching the waist band and inserting the zipper. Separately, I made up the overlay of the skirt, starting with some teensy french side seams, leaving them open from the zipper point. Then I measured out the pleats and basted them in place mostly even! The waistband I constructed out a section of one of the slubby parts of the silk from the spare panel piece. To attach everything together I sandwiched the overlay between the shorts and waistband.

To put in the zipper took a little wizardry. Somehow, and I’m still not exactly sure how, I managed to insert the zipper through both the over-lay and the shorts and continue the french seam in the skirt down the side seams. It’s held together with pixie dust! Really. I’ve had to reinforce this section once already and the waist band is about to fray on the inside. Still, I broke the cardinal rule of sewing blogging and wore this many many times before it made it here, which is to say I love her so!

Filler post! With bonus hand-make! So I thought it might be interesting to share a side project from last year while I’m in the process of shooting some recent springy / summery sews. It’s a rambling tale, one that I haven’t properly dissected until now, but the abbreviated version is that last year, I was randomly approached by a US publishing company with the possibility of creating an open-ended sewing book of sorts. As in, a book of my designs, with sewing patterns in the back. Initially the publisher didn’t realise that all the hand-makes I share on the blog, are sewn from other people’s patterns…which is pretty obvious when you actually read the posts. So it started off as a flippin exciting and viable idea to looking like a very expensive and high risk one from the publishers end, as I would have had to outsource alllll the pattern drafting and grading. Turns out, several quotes later, this service is massively expensive here (and rightly so, there’s a freakin lot of work and skill involved) and multiplied by 8-10 different designs, the publisher came to the conclusion that their allocated budget wouldn’t come close to covering it. This all took place over a several month period in which I worked with a local service to have one design trialled and drafted into actual pattern form, to suss out costs and time involved. Answer: A LOT and A LOT. We left on good terms with the lines open for the future in case of any less costly book ideas (insert cry-laugh face).

I learned so much. The whole process was equal parts frustrating and interesting. Firstly, I now know I am not remotely interested in the technical aspect of drafting patterns. That is a good thing to realise. The design and concept side of things, yes. The technicalities, no. Happy to outsource drafting and grading forever and always, if in future I wanted to produce sewing patterns, which is looking unlikely. For those who actually do this crazy shit for a living, I am in awe. Mucho respect to our beloved independent pattern companies: Closet Case Files, True Bias, Baste and Gather etc etc etc…all of you!

The creative process is basically one big tussle, ain’t it? Even when it’s just you and you. One of my fav popular musings on it ~ This is Awesome! This is tricky. This is shit. I am shit. This might be okay. This is Awesome! ~ So true. And when you’re trying to get your ideas out of your head and into someone else’s, it’s adds a whole new dimension. Words on their own weren’t enough to convey the idea, sketches didn’t quite reach either and in the end we arrived at an agreement of how this particular dress should sit and fit and move from a combination of talking it out, sketches and fabric swatches. We did four or five muslins, which maybe could have been two or three, had we muslined the dress in a similar fabric to the actual version, something lightly and floaty, rather than stiff calico. As you can imagine, it was kind of hard to gauge how the actual fabric might fall.

And the result? A dress that is actually pretty close to what I was imagining. Which was: a loose fit, high-ish necked bodice with kimono sleeves / dropped shoulder, a front placket, gathered waist, raised slightly higher in front and lower at the back, round knee length-ish hem scooped up at the side, french seamed with bias bound neck and armsicles and waist seam. And a cherry on top. I sewed up this sample size in this silk crepe de chine print from The Fabric Store but I actually think it might work better in a solid, since some of the features get lost. Am I allowed to confess, after all that, that I’m not totally in love with it? Don’t slap me. I’m actually okay with this. Seeing it come to life from an idea was irrevocably the coolest thing ever.

To be honest, when it didn’t all go ahead, of course I was disheartened but a little part of me was relieved. The timing was not great. I’m not sure I really had the creative energy to devote to such a massive project last year, with my littlest man still at home. So, I’ve filed this one away in the box of life experiences! And the dress and pattern are just kinda chillin with their homies for now. As always, I love to hear your thoughts…and am curious…would you actually wear this dress? What’s working / not working?

Hi lady loves! I have a fresh-off-the machine dress to share with you today. It was a happy experiment. I wasn’t sure I would be in love with it since it feels like a pretty major deviation from my usual style (whatever that is) but I’ve worn it on two separate occasions already this week so I know what we have is real…

Last post I mentioned The Reformation as the mother source of all spring / summer sewing inspo. I would like to make all the things but have had a particular dress, similar to this one and this one, on my mind for a while now. I also kind of love this whole colour block / 90’s heels combination that designers like Maryam Nassir Zadeh are playing with. And so I thought, what is fashion without risk? So I give you rusty metallic sack dress with lavender block heels. Work with me here.

Pattern-wise, this dress is loosely based on a RTW piece, which I do buy every now and then. A healthy hand-made wardrobe can be supplemented with thoughtful RTW. I really believe that. The original dress is a plain-as denim shift with highish neck and a scooped out back and a hem that hits above the knee. It’s nothing fancy, but I’m in it 2 out of 7 days every week. So I did what any stealthy sewist would do and copied the pattern. Also it was ridiculously priced for what it is, but now it’s justified because I can replicate it forever and ever.

To get from that dress to this one, I kept the original neckline and back and extended the side seams straight down and out. I wasn’t originally going to give it a split up the sides but when I tried it on mid-sewing without the split there was too much sackness going on and it needed something extra. Skin, mostly. And I think that is what I’m loving about the style and why it feels so feminine to wear is it’s a little bit shapeless, a little bit demure and then BAM, leg.

Now if you wanted to make something similar I realise this is all a bit unhelpful. Fret not. Before I decided to base this dress on a RTW piece, which was more laziness than anything, I was going to start from scratch and modify a pattern to get to the same dress. The Tessuti Kate top would be my first pick; from there you would extend it to dress length and scoop out the back. I feel like it would be a simple modification from any woven A-line tank top or dress pattern, like the Wiksten tank or the Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank. I so desperately would love to share the pattern with you somehow. But I feels that could be bad creative karma.

How did we get this far without talking about the fabric? Synthetic. All the way. No idea what is in it but it pressed well, and holds a crease, as you can see. I found her at The Fabric Store and she lured me in with her slinky rust metallic luxeness. Up close the texture is almost like mini scales, which you can’t see in these pics and I didn’t manage to get a photo of. It was actually raining here so I was grateful to even get a couple of decent shots and not end up with a fro.

The co-ords are back! And I like to think they’ve had a little coming-of-age: less kitsch, more chic. Right now I’m feeling deeply inspired by all things The Reformation: colours, silhouettes, 70’s off the shoulder, 90’s sundresses. And I’m not sure if it’s because fashion seems to be drawing so much influence from previous decades at the moment, but I’m discovering that nearly all of the RTW versions have a matching sewing pattern out there somewhere. If there’s not a new one, there’s a vintage one. I’ve been hungrily pinning fabrics, patterns and inspiration to a summer sewing moodboard (feel free to pilfer). On that note, I think i’ll just keep sewing summer clothes. All year. Because Winter is not coming. Which is equal parts unnerving and convenient. Unnerving because we’re screwed. And convenient because now there’s no more FOMO about being in opposite sewing seasons to everrrryone else. Sometimes it feels that way…all arrone…down here in the southern hemisphere. Happy Spring y’all!
The top is another version of vintage Simplicity pattern 9967. If you’re looking for this pattern, keep a close eye on Etsy or Ebay. When I bought this one there were several others available from other sellers. Plus it was cheap too, so I don’t think it’s a particularly rare pattern.  The fabric is a silk crepe de chine from The Fabric Store (they’re online now). Originally I was thinking maybe a kimono but then realised I would get the most mileage out of two co-ordinating separates, which could be worn together as a grown up romper.

I’ve only sewn up two patterns from Pattern Runway, but it’s enough to knows I like them. My first foray was these scalloped shorts, which surprisingly have become one of my most worn hand-made items and have recently been retired due to structural instability (literally, falling apart at the seams). That their heir, version no.3, is already cut out, is telling of how I feel about them. And now a new one! These paperbag waist babies; a Pattern Runway freebie that I am rather smitten with, from the pages of beloved Aussie eco-fashion magazine, Peppermint. It’s so exciting when you discover a pattern with the whole package…beautiful drafting, interesting design features and pretty insides. It really make this whole hand-made wardrobe business a legit and preferable alternative to buying clothes! Why wouldn’t you bother?

What makes a beautiful pattern? Or better still, a sew-again pattern? Good drafting and fit always. They tend to determine whether a hand-made garment becomes a much-loved garment and if it gets worn at all, regularly or demoted. Personally I feel it’s the smaller details that really make a piece sing; a facing here, a french seam there. We all have our favourite pattern companies too, the ones you know you can rely on to leave you satisfied.

I had good feels about these. Design wise, they are simple but have enough special details to elevate them from shorts to Le Shorts. French seamed pockets; not necessary but a delight! Faced hem bands, scooped ever so slightly up into the side seams. A paperbag waist with drawstring…ok, that’s enough (fans face). And the process! No guesswork. This I like. Everything lined up. This I also like. It was interesting to see the waist section come together…I know by now that the instructions from Pattern Runway patterns are always great. So I just trusted and followed them like a diligent, well behaved sewer.

I went for self fabric ties with little brass stoppers, which are actually a bit clunky and pelt my thighs when I walk. I do love the effect of using ropey cord for the drawstring, like the pattern version. The shorts really look nice in a solid fabric too, and the design details are more obvious. Oh understitching, you complete me! It’s like a little pause where you get to tune out and zone into something small and detailed. Much the same joy as top-stitching jeans brings. One thing I am never sure of is when you turn your facing and seam away from the main fabric in preparation to understitch, sometimes they get you to jump straight into the understitching without pressing first and other times you press the facing and seam away first. I prefer to press away first as I never feel totally confident that that I will understitch accurately with billowy unpressed fabric. Is there a right way?

Construction notes 

• The pattern asks for 28mm elastic. Couldn’t find this width and received a puzzled look from the lady at Spotlight. 25mm ended up being perfect…not sure if this was a typo.
• Before stitching the button holes (or punching in eyelets) in the waistband, I was graced with the sewers foresight to interface this area. An especially good idea when sewing silk.
• Instead of top-stitching the hem facing down, like the pattern asks, I thought I should honour this fabric with an invisible (mostly) hem.
• Epic sad face: when my serger ate up fabric, going around the curve of the crotch seams. It kept munching into the fabric before I could usher it out of the way!

I appreciate that this style is not everyone’s beef. But if you love the concept of a high waist and mid thigh length you will love the result. Personally I think I would like an extra inch in length…

Well, last week was a week of firsts…hand-made jeans: check. First online class: check. Wait, what? So if I’ve been a little quiet on social media in the last month it’s because I’ve been beavering away planning, sewing, filming and putting together an online sewing class for this DIY Leather Bucket Bag. Eeeeeee!

This all came about quite serendipitously. I was approached by Skillshare late last year about the idea of putting together an online sewing class, covering the subject of ‘whatever I like’. So in the spirit of 2016 I said yes first and freaked out later. At first it was suggested that I could teach a learn-to-sew style class…even after sewing for over six years, the idea of being considered an authority on sewing fundamentals is not my beef. But pass me an obscure material and an idea for a high-risk DIY and I’ll run with it, any day!

One would dare say leather bucket bags are trending right now and to be honest, for quite a while I was going to buy one. But then I thought, how hard could it be? It’s just a rectangle plus a circle with straps and a cord. I drafted up a template. Bought a beautiful hide, some basic leather working tools, did some research and got to it! Argh, of course there were hurdles along the way. And then the filming… my god. As a mostly-introvert, speaking my thoughts aloud on camera for 8 + hours (and having to make sense and not do weird faces) was intense. Oh and the part where I punch a hole in the exact place I tell everyone not to punch it. Le sigh. But the result: pure leather bucket bag deliciousness and a class that I am so excited and proud to share with you!

 In the class you will learn:

• how to sew leather using a domestic / home sewing machine

• how to set up your machine and the different types of stitches required

• how to use basic leather working tools

• how to create a custom metallic monogram and leather tassels

You will come away with your own hand-crafted, personalised and damn-fine-looking bucket bag and also new knowledge and confidence to sew with leather; a typically “tricky” material. Spoiler: it’s not tricky. Of course I would be honoured / love you (maybe forever) to enrol in my class and DIY yourself a leather bucket bag. If you enrol via this link, Skillshare will give you a month of premium membership for free!

Hullo! Today is the final stop on the Indiesew Spring Collection Tour and I am here representing #teambirkinflares! That’s right. Made some jeans (dusts knuckles on shoulder). And I fully credit Lauren and her jeans drafting prowess with the fact that these may be the best fitting pair of pants I’ve ever owned. The idea that I made them, is too ridiculous. It’s a dream. I’ve been coveting a pair of the high-waisted Birkin’s for myself after seeing everyone else’s (see Kelly’s and Oona’s and Sara’s and…) and it can only be described as divine timing that Indiesew’s Spring Collection Tour came when it did.  I already had the pattern in my stash but without a deadline I’m sure I would have simultaneously avoided and pined for them all season. Sewing pants is traditionally, not my thing and jeans…JEANS are were THE PINNACLE! I mean, who makes their own jeans? Really.

If you’re curious or tempted to sew jeans, it is really worth having a go. Actually, I don’t think this can be considered having a ‘go’; with Lauren’s impeccable and beginner friendly instructions, it’s impossible to come out the other side with anything but a pair of beautifully finished, store-bought-looking jeans. For me the biggest concern was fit. I so wanted to believe it was possible to make a pair of jeans with perfect-fit. It seemed like an absurd undertaking to sew a pair of jeans that could end up with a less than satisfactory fit. Still, it was a possibility. I had to TRUST.

Specifically I was worried about sizing. Anyone who’s ever bought a pair of jeans that were a ‘great’ fit in store only to have them bag-out after a few wears, knows, it’s a grief that runs deep. This happened to me again and again until I figured out that a pair of jeans needs to be borderline too tight in the change-room, to be a perfect fit once they relax. This is a terrible idea if the jeans have no stretch. However, I was feeling confident that the denim I was using for my Birkin’s, the dreamy, US-milled, 11.5 ounce, Cone Mills denim (currently sold out but others available), was going to follow the rules. I measured a 28 across both waist and hips which is my normal RTW jeans size. But before cutting, I did some considerable Birkin Flare sizing research (stalking your blogs) to gauge whether to size down or not. A problem I often run into with pants is that being a little taller I need the ‘seat depth’ of the larger size but the hip width of a smaller size. So, I figured it was safer to go the 28 and take the sides in; an adjustment I was confident I could deal with.

This is where the ingenious instructions made it even easier to get the fit right. By having you baste the side seams together, once all the main parts, back yoke, fly, front pockets, are complete, there’s no ‘I think they will still fit like this after I put the fly in’. It’s a guarantee! Instead of a 5/8″ seam I basted my side seams together with a 7/8″ seam. I’m guessing that taking this much off actually put them at the equivalent of a 27 which, combined with the seat depth of the 28, was just right. But having taken so much out of the sides, looking at the above photo I feel I could have moved the pockets closer to the centre back seam. When it came to attaching the waistband, I re-marked it with the size 27 markings and basted it first to make sure I could eat lunch. I can. I know ‘perfect’ is a dirty word that we sewists don’t flash around willy nilly but when the fit is wriggle-in, jump up and down, get-into-dem-jeans-dance p.e.r.f.e.c.t, you’re allowed to scream it from the mountain tops!

One thing I really enjoy about the sewing process is making design decisions. Which colour buttons? Contrast hem? I love putting thought into this stuff! But it can be kind of paralysing. That’s when we pass responsibility over to Instagram. I was actually looking forward to sewing a “basic” for once because I thought it meant time-out from decision making. I mean, jeans are jeans. There’s just a button and some top-stitching, right? Err, no. It went more like this…silver or copper button? Rivets or no rivets? Neutral or gold top-stitching? Plain or embellished pockets? Wait, what sort of pockets, welts? It was popping a cork on a red I didn’t even know I had! I knew I wanted a dark blue denim and preferred neutral / invisible top stitching, like this pair. I went with plain pockets from the size below with a (conspiracy) theory that smaller pockets make your ass look smaller. I chose a muted brass button over copper because I didn’t want it to be a stand-out feature. I deepened the hem to 2.5″ because I thought it looked, um, rad. That’s what the kids were saying in the 70’s right? And I decided no rivets because they detracted from the minimalist, dress jean vibe I was going for.

Usually an up-coming fly section is enough to induce mild fight or flight. But the instructions for inserting the fly here were uh-mazing. And yes you were all right, top stitching IS fun, even without an edge-stitch foot. Having the Baste + Gather Facebook group available is invaluable, especially when you panic over why your zip is 3″ longer than in the pictures (you shorten it later). There were only two sections in the entire thing I couldn’t figure out. One, was how to remove the extra teeth from the zipper using the pliers. I tried. My burly dad tried. In the end I just grabbed a quick-unpick and sliced off the extra teeth, solved! The other was transferring the fly top stitching guide lines to the fabric. I’m still not sure what method everyone else was using but I couldn’t see how I would get the chalk pen to go through my easy-trace onto the jeans below. So I traced over the lines in chalk pen, flipped it off and then rubbed off the markings onto the jean and went back over it. Genius! Or maybe we were supposed to do that.

There were so many tips and tricks I learned along the way. Things I would never think of doing. Having now sewn the Birkins, these are a few that really made a difference to the sewing process and my enjoyment levels:

• Hammering the back of the belt loops flat before sewing made them really easy to sew to the jeans with bar tacks.
• Using a couple of layers of folded denim to level out the foot when sewing the belt loops to the jeans.
• If you don’t have fray-check you can carefully melt the ends of the belt loops with, um, fire.
• If your machine doesn’t love sewing the button hole with top-stitch thread, you can feed two spools of normal thread into the needle instead – this worked a treat on both the button hole and all the bar tacks for the belt loops.
• Double sided tape is a great alternative for sticking the back pockets in place, pre-sewing.

Get your copy of the pattern here.