For the most part, the weather behaved itself in 2009 delivering plentiful water in the early months followed by a very warm, dry summer. With the cool nights and these warm days through September, helped by a touch of rain in mid-month, the grapes developed great depth of colour and extended the ripening process through to the middle of October, the harvest being one of the latest in recent years. This extended ‘hang time’ has created powerful but ripe tannins and levels of concentration not seen before. This is the reason why we have a great vintage on our hands – and it is also the source of its problems. Alarmed by high sugar levels in their grapes and fearing excessive alcohol levels some growers picked too early, some waited too long and others having harvested a perfect crop then proceeded to ‘work’ it as they usually do, producing wines that are over-extracted.

In fact, ‘over-extracted’ was a term frequently heard across Bordeaux during our visit – a term mostly associated with the vinification of Merlot. By pumping the wine over the ‘cap’, and plunging this cap of skins down into the fermenting mass, winemakers endeavour to extract as much colour and tannin as the wine can support, in order to tick the charm, balance and longevity boxes. In poor vintages, they have to work harder at it, but in great vintages (like 09), they needed to be a little less enthusiastic. We spotted a lot of over-enthusiasm in our tasting travels.

Across Bordeaux, we constantly heard the initials IPT mentioned, followed by a digit in the late 70s or mid 80s. Aware that this was some kind of ripeness index, it took but a few minutes to explode these initials into Indice des Polyphénols Totaux which, simply put, gives a measurement of the total tannins. The way these figures were bandied about, however, led us to believe that this was the ultimate panacea to understanding the relevance of a good summer, combined with a perfect harvest and total ripeness. When we asked of Cheval Blanc what was their IPT in 09 – so glibly did this flow from our tannin soaked lips, we were marginally taken aback by their total disregard for our new toy – dismissing this ‘index’ as just that, and in no way indicative of quality. Considering their wines were some of the best of the vintage, we decided not to continue elsewhere with this line of enquiry, in case we met similar, withering responses from others!

There is no doubt that 2009 is a great vintage, but it is one that surprised us by its variations. It is a vintage that needs very careful selection, because it is the it that one tries to put one’s finger on to define the essence of the vintage, that eludes us. Is it a Right Bank (Merlot) year or a Left Bank (Cabernet Sauvignon) year? This is the standard question to which, again, there is no clear answer for the 2009 vintage. We will however favour the left bank because fully ripened Cabernets returned alcohol levels of 13° to 13.5° degrees whereas the Merlots were frequently coming in at 14° or 14.5°. We did find that whenever we particularly liked a wine, it invariably contained at least 5% of Petit Verdot in the mix, and this tended to be on the Left Bank.

We found many wines with impressive concentration, mouth-feel, structure and texture, but it was when these component parts were allied to what we referred to as ‘freshness’- which is natural fruit acidity, that we found wines to truly excite.

The Market

There is a week in May when the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux organises all the Châteaux from one commune to show their wines under a marquee, winery roof or combination of the two, enabling us to tour and taste nearly all the grander estates within a few days. Normally, one would expect there to be around four thousand of the world’s wine buying elite, but to taste the 2009 vintage, the hotels in and around Bordeaux were heaving with a reported 6000 buyers, and we found ourselves rubbing shoulders with buyers from Bejing, Moscow, Fiji, Australia, US, Europe…and more. Indeed, the world and his wife were there. (Mr Chase, who several months ago in a light hearted moment, had signed himself in as coming from Ouzbékistan rather than the UK, cast nervous glances over his shoulder expecting to be warmly addressed in a language that could prove somewhat challenging.) The interest from established buyers and new markets is high, and this means that there will be a scramble for the very top wines. These Châteaux will undoubtedly play the ‘long game’ as far as releasing their prices is concerned, and we may be well into June before this happens. We will be joining the fray to secure what we can for Adnams’ customers. When it happens it will be fast and furious, so it would be best for all who would like a slice of the action, to let us know your needs well in advance. Send us your shopping lists, and preference will be given to regular customers. Do not expect any bargains at the top end, and prepare yourselves for a sharp intake of breath when you see how much they are going to charge !

If you would like to be on the receiving end of Rob Chase’s ‘Latest Releases’ emails, please let him know via rob.chase@adnams.co.uk – ASAP.

The Tastings

All the glamour and glitz lies at the top end of the market and there are some absolute showstoppers here. We particularly liked Lafite, Margaux and Haut Brion but Cheval Blanc was jaw droppingly supreme. Château Palmer stood out as did Ducru Beaucaillou,  Pichon-Lalande and the several Léovilles – namely Barton, Langoa and Las Cases. Their junior estates and second wines were equally impressive. We failed to get in to Latour and Ausone this year, but reports are of superlative wines.

A few days after our return from the week’s tasting (at least 48 hours of rest is needed before the taste buds can work effectively again) Alastair went down to his cellar and re-emerge with a bottle of 2000 Château Le Doyenné – a simple Premières Côtes de Bordeaux that he had originally bought ‘en primeur’, with only one thing in mind – pleasure. Ten years on, and it was a delight which served only to reinforce the Adnams belief that the real fun of a great year is in its ‘little’ wines, which can deliver what we all want – quality and value for money. A day or two prior to departure, Mr Chase indulged in a couple of wines from his cellar – in order, he insisted, to hone his palate prior to the annual Bordelais onslaught. The first bottle was the very junior 2005 Pézat from Château Teyssier in St Emilion. It cost a snip when purchased en primeur, and was outstanding value, as indeed was the 2000 Château Mazeris from Canon-Fronsac. Remarkable fruit and structurally perfect.

The Offer

The first part of the Adnams offer will consist of a selection of ‘Petits Châteaux’ which we urge you to indulge in without reservation. These wines will, in the next five to ten years, be the bottles you turn to when you want something special, without going over the top. This is where the value is. This is where the fun is. (Watch also this space for Monte Bello, Geyserville and Cornerstone (NZ) en primeurs).

The second part will consist of better known names such as Château d’Angludet or Château Chasse Spleen, which we anticipate selling in May.

The third and final part will consist of the top Châteaux and you need to let us know your interest here, as demand will exceed supply.

Other Things To Do In Bordeaux

During our recent visit we stayed in various locations…

The Hôtel de France in Libourne. Well appointed capacious rooms in a hotel that we picked not only for its comfort but its proximity to the train station, since we travelled by TGV. Libourne is centrally placed for visiting the region with St Emilion only 15 minutes away and the picturesque Bourg and Blaye regions not far to the north.

Before you get to Bourg you would pass through the Fronsac region and in the village of La Rivière lies (not unsurprisingly) the Château La Rivière. This is a very picturesque estate which now caters for wine tourists, and is the source of the Adnams Claret. Best suited to groups of friends, the rooms are very well appointed and you have sensational views over the Dordogne river. A tour of their vast cellars is a must (8.5 hectares of cellars!)

If you want to move from the right bank to the Médoc, then the preferred Adnams method is to avoid the Rocade or ring road around Bordeaux city, as it is frequently prone to long delays – and instead drive up to the town of Blaye on the right bank and catch the ferry across the mighty Gironde estuary to Lamarque which is only 15 minutes to the south of Pauillac. In Pauillac there is a modest hotel called the France & Angleterre. We always ask for rooms in the cheaper and less well appointed main building as they have views over the estuary, and from here you can watch the big ships navigating their way up and down this busy shipping lane. There is a selection of restaurants along the waterfront but the trendy place to eat around Pauillac is Le Vinale just outside town. (If you have the energy it’s but a 20 minute walk to get to Château Lynch Bages where they have a rather toy-town redevelopment of a French village going on behind the château. Le Vinale is to be found here). It is relaxed and unpretentious and, as far as we were concerned, the perfect place to finish up after a long days tasting.

The city of Bordeaux is now, after many years of development, a delightful place to visit, and the quay area infinitely more presentable than it used to be. At the top end of the Allée de Tournée is the opera house, and opposite is the newly restored, five star, Regent Hotel. Distinctly more modest and just beside the opera house, is the Hôtel des Quatre Soeurs, but both hotels place you within a stone’s throw of a favourite Adnams watering hole, the Brasserie Le Noaille. A great place from which to watch the world go by.

Alastair Marshall & Rob Chase, Spring 2010

- because we prefer to leave our footprints in the sand, not on the environment

Adnams and the coast are inextricably linked. It’s where Adnams is based, it’s central to our advertising campaigns and it’s where many of us have a lot of fun.  Unfortunately, some of our best-loved marine wildlife is under threat from the waste and litter in our seas. Hundreds of species of marine wildlife accidentally eat or become tangled up in litter. In addition to harming wildlife, litter on our beaches is hazardous to people and costs millions to clear up.

So, seven years ago we decided to ‘do our bit’ and signed up to the Marine Conservation Society’s Adopt-a-Beach scheme. Part of our commitment is to clean our adopted 1km stretch of Southwold’s beach (from Gun Hill to the Harbour) four times a year. The main Adnams Coastal Clean event of the year takes place in September as part of the annual MCS Beachwatch Big Weekend where the data collected is used for the annual MCS Beachwatch report.

During last year’s MCS Beachwatch survey weekend over 4,200 volunteers took part cleaning and surveying over 350 beaches and collecting over 3,000 bags of litter. Suffolk played a major part in this with Suffolk Coast and Heaths co-ordinating 29 groups surveying 22km of our beautiful coastline.  In Southwold, we had 80 people join us and managed to collect a whopping 60 bags of rubbish.

As you might expect from Adnams, we like to combine the serious nature of beachcleans with a little fun and reward. We’d love you to come and join us on Saturday 18 September. We meet at the Swan Hotel between 10.30 – 11am for a brief briefing and issue of equipment and then we head down to Gun Hill at 11am to begin our clean. We usually end up in the Harbour Inn for our pint of Adnams and fish & chips just before 1pm.

That’s about it – everyone welcome. Please email me at emma.hibbert@adnams.co.uk to book your place and receive your instructions for the day.

You can join our Seasonal Cellar club online or by phoning 01502 727222.

White wines

2008 Chablis Domaine de la Boissoneuse, Julien Brocard

Julien Brocard manages the family’s 180 hectares of vines around Préhy, which his father Jean-Marc build from scratch some forty years ago when a hectare of vines came with the hand of his childhood sweetheart, Claudine. Although Jean-Marc is officially retired, he continues to be a thorn in the side of his off-spring, and is always keen to greet visiting buyers from Adnams. Over the past decade, Adnams has been providing staff for a couple of days grape picking and tasting, and it was on one of these visits that we discovered the Boissonneuse. Exposed to biodynamic ideals at wine college, Julien was able to take on this particular vineyard as an organic trial receiving organic status some seven years ago. The wonderful salty tang of the air on a hot summer’s day, combined with endless fossilized shells on the ground, are testament to the fact that this was once an ocean. You can see the connection with the soil in this classic Chablis, which has a flinty minerality about it, with dry citrus extract This is unquestionably a wine for shelfish, oysters preferably.

2008 Malvasia, Birichino, Monterrey County

Birichino are John Locke, ex winemaker at Bonny Doon and Alex Krause from Ca Del Solo. Both hail from the ‘creative’ stable of maverick winemaker Randal Grahm and their efforts at a bone dry Malvasia has a quirky familiarity about it.. Malvasia is an ancient variety, and as far as we can tell, it worked its way over from the Greek city of Monemvassia (Malvasia seemingly a corruption of Monemvassia) to Italy, and thence to America in the boots of the Italian immigrant who smuggled it into California years ago. This particular clone of Malvasia is from Calabria in southern Italy, which had a long established Greek culture and history before the Roman Empire came on the scene. This is aromatic, with a hint of sweetness, which turns bone dry, and is a perfect wine to suit Asian cuisine or a simple roasted chicken with lemons, tarragon and garlic.

2008 Fiano, Bruno Fina, Sicilia

Bruno Fina spent the 1990’s running Sicily’s experimental cellar at Alcamo, applying radical techniques to Sicilian varieties in pursuit of their true vocation. He advises local growers on their plantings – so he knows where the best grapes are grown, and what they can do. This is his first venture with Fiano, and he doesn’t disappoint. If you like to try and enjoy something marginally different, this wine should invigorate the taste buds and inspire your culinary endeavors to yet greater heights. We are talking pasta here; cannoli is a Sicilian speciality – and all manner of sea-food, where cuttlefish, bream, bass, swordfish and sardines reign supreme.

2008 Moscatel Secco, Jorge Ortonez, Malaga

A very international effort in that Jorge Ordonez, who is a significant exporter of Spanish wines to the US, joined forces with the late Alois Kracher, Austrian guru of sensational sweet white wines, since suceeded by his son. Just an hour inland from Malaga and uphill by some 450 metres they chose ancient vines of Muscat of Alexandria cultivated on steep slopes. Low yields, hand harvested with just over half fermented in stainless steel tanks and the rest in oak barrels. The result is a fascinating and complex wine which is far more than just an aperitif. An excellent match with seafood but give it a moment on its own first to truly savour the enticing layers of flavour that it delivers. One of the most exciting wines that we have tasted this year.

2009 Riesling Gebling Weingut Felsner, Kremstal

The Felsner family estate is situated in the village of Rohrendorf at the eastern end of the Kremstal, where loess soil predominates. This is a unique, wind-blown, fine silty clay which is light and absorbs heat well; it is particularly suited to the Grüner Veltliners which Manfred and his sister Renate Felsner produce. The vineyards also extend to conglomerate rock, which is planted with Riesling. Manfred’s careful vineyard work has seen much work put into recultivating the steep slopes and old vines. His philosophy is to use minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery in order to preserve the authenticity of the terroir in the wines he produces. There is a high proportion of old vines on the estate, dating back a couple of generations, and this brings depth and complexity to the wines. There is a remarkable purity to the fruit in this wine. It beggars solitary contemplation but a simple dish like quiche Lorraine would go with it well.

2009 Sauvignon, Cloudy Bay, Marlborough

Still an iconic wine. Full in flavour, with pungent aromas of gooseberries and asparagus and with superb structure. There is no denying the continuing popularity of this wine, which is now owned by luxury goods giant LVMH (Louis Vuiton, Moet Hennesy), but it is having to fight harder nowadays to maintain its lofty position as there are an increasing number of pretenders to this throne. The name of the winery is taken from the local bay, which was named by Captain James Cook on his great voyage of discovery in the south seas. He sailed by and leaning overboard he noticed the silt laden waters and pronounced, rather literally, that this should be called ‘Cloudy Bay’. Not, as is usually supposed, to do with the brilliantly designed label of cloud shrouded mountains.

You could keep this wine for another six months and it would develop further and deliver even more interesting complexity. However, you will not be disappointed broaching a bottle now.

Red wines

2007 Pernand Vergelesses, Domaine Rapet

Located between Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the Pernand – Vergelesses vineyard, tucked away in the green surroundings of a quiet valley, begins at the foot of Corton hill. The Estate comprises 18 hectares of vines in the villages of Pernand – Vergelesses, Savigny les Beaune, Aloxe Corton and Beaune. The current members of a family business that dates back to at least 1765 are Vincent and Sylvette Rapet who manage the family’s vines paying great care to their management of their soil, they use a minimum of chemicals. Harvest is always by hand and the grapes are transported to the cellars in small crates to avoid bruising. The wine ferments for 15 days after which it matures in barrels- 20% of which are new, for a further 12 months. Cranberries, raspberries and oak structure. This is classic burgundian Pinot that is best shown off

2007 Vacqueyras ‘Le Rif’ La Ferme du Mont

Stephane Vedeau owns this 50 hectare estate and heads up a youthful team. Enthusiasm is the order of the day here. All the vines are cultivated with a regards to the environment and so no herbicides or pesticides are used. We visited the cellars on the day that the mobile bottling plant had arrived and France were playing in the world cup. It was chaos, we tasted in a corridor with people dashing to fetch capsules or to hurry over to the TV to catch up on the latest score. Stephane remained calm throughout and his wines shone through. Their Vacqueyras comes from manually harvested grapes. The grapes are then de-stemmed and put into tanks without yeast so the fermentations start slowly after 48hours at a temperature of 22 / 23°C. A small part of the wine Matures in oak barrel and the other part is traditionally matured in a vat. This wine is by no means shy and retiring and so you will need to get out the culinary equivalent of a whip and chair to keep this in check. Osso Bucco perhaps ?

2007 Almaroja Pirita, Charlie Allen, Arribes del Duero

We wondered what had happened to a wine trade colleague ‘Charlie’ Allen (real name Charlotte) as she had dropped below the radar of usual contact. She emerged a few years later having moved to a remote corner of Spain and single handedly taken on a vineyard of her own. Charlotte has 11 parcels of land, giving her a total of 14 hectares of vineyards. Her main grape variety is the local Juan García, but there are numerous others, including Tempranillo, Rufete, Malvasia, Bruñal, Puesto en Cruz, Bastardillo Chico and Tinta Madrid to name a few. In addition, there are 3 or 4 other white and reds varieties which neither Charlotte (nor anyone else as yet) can identify. These additional varieties give the wine increased complexity and depth of character. She works to organic principles (she hopes to obtain organic certification by 2012) and uses some biodynamic treatments, a philosophy which also influences practices in the winery – for example she always bottles with the new moon to bypass the need to filter. This wine has a wild quality about it that makes it stand out from the herd and would be right at home with a slice of top quality mature cheddar.

2005 Massaya ‘Silver Selection’ Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

The Lebanon is one of the very oldest of wine producing regions in the world and certainly the Phoenicians grew grapes here. The Bekaa valley is well suited to viticulture with a steady moderate climate during the summer and cold winters. An international collaboration between The Brunier bros of Chateauneuf estate Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Dominique Hebrard of St Emilion and the Lebanese brothers Sami & Ramzi Ghosn created a spectacular winery high in the hills of the war-torn Bekaa Valley. Rather romantically the name Massaya is the Arabic for the twilight in the Bekaa valley. Blending theRhone and Bordeaux varieties of Cinsault, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre which will spend almost two years maturing in cask before bottling they have come up with a unique and thoroughly enjoyable red. Treat this wine as if it were a cross between the Rhone and Bordeaux and match dishes to partner full flavoured but structured flavours.

2006 Three Cape Ladies, Warwick Vineyards, Stellenbosch

After the Anglo Boer war in 1902, Colonel William Alexander Gordon, Commanding Officer of the Warwickshire regiment decided against returning to England and bought the farm. He renamed it ‘Warwick’ as a tribute to his regiment . Warwick was purchased on April 1st 1964 by Stan Ratcliffe after an extensive search for the best ‘terroir’ in the Cape. It is good to break all the rules and make a wine from grapes grown in several different areas and this is what Warwick estate have done. You would have thought that the name would imply three separate grapes blended together but rather confusingly it is four! Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinotage and Merlot. The difference comes in the long barrel maturation (34 months) that this blend is given, making for a supple, full flavoured glassful of South Africa that is a bit special. We would, of course leap to recommend a bit of roast springbock with this but failing that roast lamb will do nicely.

2004 Shiraz, Juniper Estate, Margaret River

You’ll want to save this whopper Western Australian Shiraz, with its chocolate-rich, blackberry fruit, vanilla oak and spice for folks you want to impress. Winemaker Mark Messenger has won massive acclaim for the style, raising the reputation of Juniper Estate to something like that of its illustrious neighbours Cullens and Vasse Felix (with which it shares the gravelly loams and balmy microclimate and unique soil of the Wilyabrup Creek). The most notable difference between Juniper and its neighbours is the price of the wines themselves. Juniper keeps on winning medals and regularly beats the local competion but offers up its treasures at half the price of its neighbours. Long may it last. Drink this classic Shiraz with the finest steak or something baronial like haunch of venison.

You can join our Seasonal Cellar club online or by phoning 01502 727222.

White wines

2009 Viognier, Villa du Clos, Vin de Pays d’Oc

Stéphane Vedeau owns a 50 hectare estate in the Rhône and heads up a youthful team. Enthusiasm is the order of the day here. All the vines are cultivated with regard to the environment and so no herbicides or pesticides are used. Spreading his wings, he consults for other vignerons throughout the Languedoc and bottles some of the wines where he advises, like this one, under his own label. Hints of ginger and spices with some cloves from the new oak. Viognier is synonymous with viscosity and mouth-feel; this is no exception. Always hard to match with dishes because of its delicate peachy flavours and soft palate, perhaps this is the perfect wine for spicy oriental food.

2009 Laudun, Château Courac, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Blanc

Laudun is previously famous as the place where Hannibal forded the Rhône on his way to attack Rome and as the home of a local doctor who, out of curiosity, imported vines from the USA and unwittingly brought in the phyloxera plague that devastated the vineyards of Europe. Frédéric and Josephine Arnaud took on the 90 hectares estate of Château Courac in 1995 have, mercifully, no wish to add to the great feats of this small town beyond that of making great wine. This is made from scintillating, cold-fermented old-vine Clairette with its hint of spicy pears and food-friendly richness. We loved the grip of this wine and personally would use it as ‘contemplation’ wine but even then perhaps the odd slice of dried sausage (wild boar would be good) would set it off perfectly.

2008 Aligoté, Domaine Sarrazin

In any quiz, most people when asked to name the grapes of Burgundy, come up with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and if pushed, maybe Gamay. Aligoté has forever been the forgotten grape – but in this day of ubiquitous, global varietals – we rejoice in its individuality. The Sarrazins ply their trade from a very pretty, somewhat lost corner of the Côte Chalonnaise, 20 miles south of Beaune. Their cellars are in Charnailles, a hamlet next to the village of Jambles – a name to conjure with, being neither a French leg nor a quite a jumble! The family vineyards extend over 35 hectares, and although they are predominantly Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc merchants, they also have vines in Givry, Mercurey and Maranges. Their Aligoté vines are densely planted on the slopes around Charnailles in order to restrict yields to achieve around 60 hectolitres per hectare. This has a pretty, floral nose with enticing notes of crème brulée. The Aligoté’s hallmark acidity lifts and underscores the wine’s freshness, with its smooth, rich mouthfeel and peachy finish. Recommended with cold meats and freshly picked garden salads.

2008 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Fine Caillottes’ Domaine Pabiot

Jean Pabiot and son Alain are the proud guardians of a winemaking tradition stretching back six generations. Their sizeable domaine comprises an enviable portfolio of chalky Sauvignon Blanc vineyards in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Wines from the latter perfectly express the appellation’s classic smoky, minerally character, highlights perfectly the difference in soil, geology and climate to that of New Zealand, where the same grape has much more exotic tones. The grassy nuances and soft asparagus notes of this current vintage leave nothing to be desired. Great with goat cheeses, oysters and baked cod, in fact, if you visit the area, it is almost impossible to get away without sampling Pouilly or Sancerre with the famous Crotin de Chavignol goat’s cheese. Pick one that is neither soft and very fresh or, bullet hard, mature but ‘al dente’. The flavour is strong but not overpowering and will blend perfectly with a mineraly Sauvignon such as this.

2006 Riesling, The John Forrest Collection, Marlborough

Cheery Kiwi winemaker and micro- biologist John Forrest has assembled a range of wines reflecting his exuberant personality and on-going experimental quest to capture the ‘essence of place’. John is the original unreconstructed Riesling Man; he has been growing, experimenting and exhalting everything Riesling for the past eighteen years. He narrowed down umpteen of his Riesling sites to just two, finding that a combination of the fruit from both the stony, young soils from the Wairau River, and the free-draining Renwick soils satisfied his dream of making the ultimate Riesling. The Riesling picked from the Wairau provides the intensity, delicacy, minerality and citrus elements, while the latter brings the tropical richness. An unrivalled match with grilled fish, with its flavours of stone fruit, white peaches and lifted lemon zest. Why not over indulge and find another new world dry Riesling, from the Clare Valley in Australia for example, and try both side by side. This will, we hope, prove to you that dry Riesling is wonderful and in particular John Forrest is one of its greatest exponents.

2009 Pinot Gris, Sidewood Estate, Adelaide Hills

Sidewood Estate is a privately owned vineyard, nestled in the cool climate region of the Adelaide Hills in South Australia. Owen and Cassandra Inglis purchased the estate from the Lloyd Family of Coriole in 2004. Their grapes are carefully hand-picked from selected rows across their 300 acre estate. The aim is to create stylish and elegant wines that are focused on quality and underpinned by the impeccable wine making skills of Natasha Mooney, who has worked for some of the big and great in Australia as well further afield in Oregon. This newly release Pinot Gris was cold fermented, on its own yeasts, for between two and three weeks, and to make the difference, was left on its lees for several weeks, to take on complexity and character. Bottled after 5 months, this has orange blossom aromas, with lychees and guava on the palate. Worth mentioning is this Pinot Gris’ low sulphur and histamine levels. The Inglis family suggest drinking this with fleshy fish curry, or failing that, chowder.

Red wines

2009 Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Premiere Côte’ La Ferme du Mont

Stephane Vedeau owns this 50 hectare estate and heads up a youthful team. Enthusiasm is the order of the day here. All the vines are cultivated with a regards to the environment and so no herbicides or pesticides are used. We visited the cellars on the day that the mobile bottling plant had arrived and France were playing in the world cup. It was chaos, we tasted in a corridor with people dashing to fetch capsules or to hurry over to the TV to catch up on the latest score. Stephane remained calm throughout and his wines shone through. Première Côte is grown in the Village of Courthézon (one of the villages included in the appellation Chateauneuf du Pape). The soil is composed mainly by large pebbles. The region has a warm, dry climate, which is nonetheless modified by the influence of the powerful mistral wind. The combination of these factors permits an environmentally friendly approach to viticulture, with minimum intervention.

2007 ‘Les Grandes Crêtes’ Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc

Enough has been said about Stéphane Vedeau, perambulating wine consultant to southern Rhône and Languedoc vineyards. Although his influence in this wine should not be ignored, what sets Les Grandes Crêtes apart is the viticultural zone of the Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc. The Pic is a massive chunk of limestone, which forms the backdrop to the vineyards, manipulating and influencing the multiple microclimates to be found here, thus allowing Mourvèdre to ripen in the hotter spots, whilst cooler conditions can also be found for the Syrah. Grenache being a sun-seeking southern variety, is very much at home here. The vines are grown on rising ground at 400 meters above sea-level. This has lovely, defining acidity with bags of cassis and berried black fruit. This is crying out for a rustic casserole or maybe a liver and bacon hotpot.

2008 Monastrell, Casa Castillo, Jumilla

Propiedad Vitícola Casa Castillo (Julia Roch e Hijos) is a family owned property devoted to the husbandry of a two hundred hectare vineyard in the arid Murcia region of south-central Spain. Pioneers in Jumilla, Casa Castillo have been instrumental in showing the potential of this region. The wines produced are notable for their concentration of flavours and this is due to a particularly dry climate and surprisingly low night time temperatures which lead to small, flavour-packed grapes that are given the luxury of slow development, thanks to the cooler nights. The Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre or Mataro) grapes undergo a cool fermented then a short period of ageing in French and American oak for 3 – 6 months, which has concentrated its deep purple hue and its smoky black fruit and liquorice flavours. Lovely, velvety texture with good length and spicy finish. Do as they do in Jumilla and drink this with roast leg of sheep. You may be able to find some hogget at your local butcher as this is becoming increasingly popular, pack it with herbs and garlic and cook it long and slow. Just right with this flavour packed red.

2008 Trincadeira ‘Villa Santa’ Jaoa Portugal Ramos, Alentejo

Jao Portugal Ramos is a one man dynamo who has created a substantial winery, some 250 hectares of his own vineyards with even more under contract. Innovative yet mindful of good traditions, his winery is home to novel methods of getting more colour into his wines, yet stands alongside old fashioned foot-treading lagaars, and is a benchmark for Portuguese wines. The Trincadeira grape, known in the Douro as Tinta Amarela, has ripe and powerful fruit, with lovely spice / cinnamon tones from six months in new French oak. This impressive wine rather shows how far Portugal – the country and the man, have been able to push the boundaries of quality and interest in Alentejo wines. Although Portuguese cuisine is synonymous with sardines and bacalhau (dried and salted cod), one can always have too much a good thing and in this case it would not even be that. We would suggest game or simply roast beef.

2008 The Berry Box, Findlayson Family Vineyards, Stellenbosch

Edgebaston Wines are made by David Finlayson, third generation of Finlaysons, on the 22 hectares of family vineyards between Stellenbosch and Klapmuts. He strives to farm the land, grow the grapes and make the wine in as environmentally friendly manner as possible, whilst ensuring that each wine is world class. David, recently ex renown Glen Carlou winery, has made wines in Australia at Peter Lehmann, in New Zealand with Te Mata, and also at Château Margaux.. The vineyards are planted on the schale slopes of the Simonsberg range of hills, and face north east around to southeast. The family has become famous for its modern ‘fruit driven’ approach to winemaking, which is born out in this blend of five classic grape varieties that offer an unrestrained explosion of black fruit flavours. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Made with great care and attention, this shows masses of black fruit, yet set off by great elegance. Could be the best yet from the Findlayson stable – a new wave South African classic.

2007 Pinot Noir ‘The Tatty Bogler’ Bannockburn Estates, Otago

“The Forrest family have decamped from Marlborough way down south to Central Otago to make this superb, spicy, gamey and decidedly luscious Pinot Noir.” Jane MacQuitty, The Times. Well, not so much decamped as spread their wings to include planting a vineyard in Central Otago with partner Rob Robertson. Otago has become the area to grow Pinot; the new hot-spot in the world’s undying quest to establish a rival growing are to Burgundy. John Forrest is no fool, got to the party early, and bagged some great land upon which to plant vines in Waitaki in North Otago and Bannockburn in Central Otago – and Tattybogler Pinot Noir is the combined result. The former vineyard provides the sweet fruit with the textured earthiness of the latter. Rob Robertson was keen to invoke his Scottish ancestry, hence the wine’s unlikely name, with its reference to hobgoblin and crow scaring. This has the true sweet, red fruit edge of Pinot and is at its best when its natural fruit acidity can cut through rich dishes (boeuf bourguignon, Coq au vin, Shepherd’s pie) and let the fruit shine through.

You can join our Seasonal Cellar club online or by phoning 01502 727222.

You can join our Seasonal Cellar club online or by phoning 01502 727222.

White wines

2009 Chardonnay, Maison Mayol, Vin de Pays d’Oc

From an area more renown for mass production, it was a delight to come across this flavour-filled Chardonnay. Influenced by extraordinarily energized winemaking guru Stéphane Vedeau who is making wines of incredible charm in the southern Rhône, the very pure, ripe peachy / melon flavours of this wine are enhanced by the addition of a small percentage of barrel-aged wine. This comes from a selection of the estate’s best parcels of Chardonnay, grown on chalky hills along the Mediterranean, where yields are naturally restricted and the quality is heavily influenced by the cooling sea air. Stéphane has brilliantly married the geographic and climatic attributes of this estate, to his deft, winemaking skills. White wine with fish ? It certainly will be in this case – fry a couple of fresh plaice fillets with garlic in butter and serve with fresh beans and new potatoes for a classic food and wine pairing.

2009 Viognier ‘Le Jade’ Vin de Pays d’Oc

Winemaker Jean Veyrier heads up one of the best co-operative wineries in the Languedoc-Roussillon, namely Les Costières de Pomerols, near the mussel-beds of the Étang de Thau. He produces some very stylish wines, many of which garner high praise from US wine guru Robert Parker. Although growers’ co-operatives have historically had bad press, there are obvious exceptions, and this is one of them. The grapes undergo a maceration peliculaire for several hours before being pressed, with no contact with the air. The juice is then chilled and racked off its sediment twice, before it undergoes a temperature controlled fermentation at 16°C. With no malolactic fermentation, and an anaerobic and cold treatment approach, all the natural acidity and freshness are locked in. Surprisingly big peachy flavours to accompany roast pork.

2008 Folie de Roi, Pacherenc de Vic-Bilh Sec

This weird-sounding appellation effectively covers the same area as its red counterpart, Madiran, down in the south west of France. Pacherenc in local dialect means ‘posts in a row’ and Vic-Bihl, which refer to some nearby Pyrenean foothills. A fascinating mix of odd-ball varieties – Arrufiac, Courbu, and both Petit and Gros Manseng. These make for a complex array of fresh, fruity, floral and herby characters in this appealing dry white. Made by the ultra-reliable team at the Plaimont winery, who have an admirable focus on polishing the finer characteristics of the region’s local grape varieties, bringing intriguing styles to a wide audience. If ever you tire of drinking single varietals, then this is the wine to re-invigorate the jaded palate. Great as an aperitif, but equally good with cold meat and simple salads.

2009 Loios Branco, Joao Portugal Ramos, Alentejo

Joao Portugal Ramos is a one-man dynamo who has created a substantial winery, with some 250 hectares of his own, with yet more vineyards under contract. Joao’s Loios Branco is grown on the limestone clay and schist soils of the Alentejo, in central southern Portugal. It is made from two varietals, which, like most Portuguese grapes, are nigh on impossible to pronounce coherently: Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro. Both are hand-picked and cold fermented in his modern winery just out of Estremoz, which combines novel methods of getting more character into his wines, whilst standing alongside old fashioned foot treading lagars. Limes and minerality, with a crisp, fresh modern twist. Drink with grilled sardines or escabeche ­– cold marinated meats. Also perfect with gaspacho – similar to Spain’s gazpacho, except for the spelling!

2009 Viura, Principe de Viana, Navarra

Navarra’s Bodegas Principe de Viana was established in 1983 in Murchante, to the north of the region, it has a gleaming new, technologically advanced cellar and access to fruit grown over 1400 hectares. Viticultural management employs the world’s most modern and contemporary technology aiming for ideal vineyard development. Planting is controlled by GPS and laser marking, while computers monitor the soil’s humidity, local weather stations and daily plant growth data. Proving that big doesn’t mean bad, this fruit-driven style combines varietal character and friendly approachability. Enjoy with traditional vegetable stews, trout and even paella.

2008 Chardonnay ‘Highwood’ South Australia

It may be a cliché, but at this price, who cares? Rich flavours of tropical fruits, melons and cashews, framed by creamy French oak. Rob Dundon plundered his favourite McLaren Vale vineyards for this expensive-tasting Chardonnay. Since he left Hardy’s to set up on his own in a suite of grand bluestone cellars, this prolific winemaker has racked up an impressive tally of wine show medals, aided by ex-Maglieri assistant cellar overseer Scott McIntosh. The oak in this wine means that you should stay clear of matching it with a similarly treated food, smoked salmon or smoked chicken as the flavours would clash. Head for something more meaty – good, peppery, pork sausages should work a treat.

Red wines

2009 Domaine du Vieux Chene, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse

Beatrice and Jean Claude Bouche, owners of this domaine, are impassioned wine-makers. Together they manage their vineyards using organic farming methods, creating wines of great character. Just to the east of Orange, the Domaine du Vieux Chêne vineyards spread out on a slightly sloped and very rocky plateau. This location offers the wines the benefit of a beneficial microclimate thanks to an especially high yearly level of sunshine.  Simple steak /frites – so long as you have plenty of garlic butter on the steak.

2008 Minervois ‘Les Mégalithes’ Les Hauts de Montfort

Stephane Vedeau owns a 50 hectare estate in the Rhône and heads up a youthful team. Enthusiasm is the order of the day here. All the vines are cultivated with a regard to the environment and so no herbicides or pesticides are used. Spreading his wings he consults for other vignerons throughout the Languedoc and bottles some of the wines where he advises, like this one, under his own label. Made from old-vine Grenache, it has brambly spicey aromas, with cherries, violets and liquorice. The Roman legionaries introduced vines to this corner of the Languedoc, and it is said that Pline and Cicero were fans of Minervois. In an area that doesn’t attract a great deal of publicity, it is encouraging to find emerging winemakers plying their trade here, using great quality fruit from ancient vines. This is no shrinking violet so consider this with one of your first autumn stews.

2009 ‘La Mano’ Mencia Roble, Bierzo

The region of Bierzo is situated in northwest Spain just inland from Galicia. History shows that winemaking in the area dates back as far as visiting Greeks and Phoenecians. La Mano refers to the work done by the harvesters who collect the Mencia grapes which are then de-stemmed and crushed before being put into large stainless steel tanks where the pulp is macerated for 48 hours in order to extract maximum aromas and colour. After fermentation the wine goes to mature in barrels of American oak for three months before bottling. Simple bright red fruit flavours that put you in mind of cold ham and boiled new potatoes.

2009 Monty’s Tuscan Red, IGT, Toscana

The wine writer Monty Waldin put his money where his mouth was and made his own biodynamic wine in the Roussillon. After two successful vintages in France he now moves on to repeat the same exercise in Tuscany. Now married to an Italian and living in San Gimignano, Monty maintains it is quicker and cheaper to get to New York than it is to get to Perpignan!  His Tuscan Red is predomiantly Sangiovese with around 30% Merlot. Why dilute a truly iconic Tuscan varietal with a ubiquitous French variety like Merlot? Monty believes that Merlot, planted on clay rather than sandy soils where it produces hot and hollow wines, rounds out and softens the sometimes structurally challenging Sangiovese. We think he has got the blend just about right, and drank it recently with calves’ liver.  Stupendous.

2007 Zweigelt ‘Little J’ Jurtschitsch Sonnhof, Neiderösterreich

The estate of the Jurtschitsch family comprises some 74 hectares of prime vineyard sites around Langenlois. The Sonnhof, with cellars 14 meters below ground, was a winery for the neighbouring Franciscan monks until the 18^th century, and since 1868 the house has been owned by the Jurtscitsch Family. As early as the 1970’s they switched over to compost- and plant-litter-based fertilizers and also decided to use plant protection methods favorable to beneficial insects. Starting with 2006 the vineyard management has been in transition to controlled organic methods. Their four-stepped, gravity winery, built in 2000, circumvents the need for the grapes, juice or finished wine, ever having to come in contact with a pump.This Zweigelt is youthful, clear and concise, with varietal aromas of sweet and sour cherries and refined fruit flavors.  We would suggest drinking this with gulasch (given the proximity to Hungary) or Austria’s answer to fast-food – the schnitzel. The family suggests, more prosaically, it can be enjoyed with all red meats or Italian food like pasta or pizza.

2008 Merlot, Bodegas Gouguenheim, Mendoza

Rich and powerful; packed with gamey blackcurrant fruit, with aromas of plums, blackcurrants, chocolate and violets. Just the sort of calibre you’d expect from high priestess of Mendozan winemaking, Susana Balbo. It was her influence (and that of top agricultural engineer Professor Pedro Marchevsky) that led Cognac magnate Patricio Gouguenheim to the immaculate heights of the Valle Escondido in Tupungato, 70km from Mendoza. In the Andean foothills, yet at 1000 meters above sea level, the Valle Escondido has 320 days of sunshine a year, with essential irrigation coming from the mountains. Maybe it’s the altitude, or the purity of the air, or the endless sunshine that creates the intensity of aromas, but there is little doubt that this is a Merlot of great charm and intrinsic, varietal character. When in the Andes, eat what the Argentinians eat  – lots of red meat in the form of barbequed steaks and ribs. They are more influenced by European cooking than Latin American, so pasta and pizza, chorizo and empanadas (small pastries made from meat, cheese) are the order of the day.

You can join our Seasonal Cellar club online or by phoning 01502 727222.

Filippo Cassano in his Primitivo vineyard

Every Thursday morning the Adnams wine team tastes a range of products that have arrived over the preceeding week. We taste wine most of the time, around 40 bottles each week, although recently we have been delving into spirits. We are expanding our spirits range to celebrate the arrival of our very own Copperhouse spirits (have a look at our blog for more details).

During a recent tasting we sampled the Polvanera ‘14′ Primitivo from the Murge Hills in Puglia. It was a moment when the whole team ooed and aaahed and came to the same verdict… delicious! I contacted the winemaker, Filippo Cassano, immediately and a small parcel got underway from Italy, the first time he’s exported to the UK. Intrigued by the wine and the man who makes it, I decided to stop off at Polvanera during my Italian trip.

“Dense damson and plum aromas with silky, ripe blackberries on the palate. Beautifully uncluttered with pure fruit and softly structured tannins.”

Puglia is the most fertile agricultural area in Italy thanks in part to the mineral-laden soils and warm, dry air from the Balkans which enables healthy growing conditions. Wine production has varied over the years with some areas concentrating on bulk production and a much smaller number focused on regional varieties and quality wines. Filippo Cassano certainly falls into the latter category. He started his winemaking career at the tender age of 12 and graduated 6 years later. He purchased his first vineyards ten years ago and whilst everyone else seemed to be planting Cabernet, he was determined to create wines with indigenous varieties such as Primitivo.

Filippo tasting Polvanera

It is Primitivo vines that have produced the fruit for the Polvenara ‘14′. Filippo has now expanded his vineyards and purchased some old vine Primitivo to compliment his younger vines. Throughout the past decade he has farmed his land using organic principles and his vineyards have been certified as organic from 2008.

Filippo’s view on winemaking is simple; minimal intervention, just like his viticultural practices. He never employs oak in any of his wines, and as a result he gains wonderful pure, concentrated fruit flavours. His wines are also carefully aged in his cellars, which are dug out of the limestone and terra rossa soils to deliver perfect conditions for ageing. His ‘14′ spends 20 months in tank then a further 8 months in bottle. 2007 was a very hot and dry vintage, producing low yields and wines of superb concentration. Whilst at 14% abv the wine has balance of fruit and tannins and a real freshness.

Filippo recommends pouring the wine into a glass five minutes before enjoying, this will really get the aromas flying. I would recommend having two glasses, as you wont be able to wait five minutes for the second glass!

Try our ‘Taste of Primitivo‘ Case
Mixed case, 4 bottles of each of the wines below for £110

Polvanera 14 £11.99 – New and exclusive parcel
Pure and elegant Primitivo from a tiny producer in the Murge Hills, Puglia. Unoaked, highly concentrated and wonderfully balanced.

Primitivo de Puglia, A Mano £8.50 – Blockbuster oaked Primitivo from Puglia
Mark Shannon and Elvezia Sbalchiero fell in love with Puglia after making wines all over the world. Their focus is to combine the intrinsic quality of old vine Primitivo with oak, to produce a real blockbuster. Spicy, smoky with liquorice notes and plenty of red berry fruit. A beautifully contrasting style to the Polvanera.

Scotto Old Vines Zinfandel £9.99 – The American version of Primitivo
Old vine Zinfandel from Lodi, the place for award winning Zinfandel in California. Intense, lively black cherry fruit and a hint of pepper thanks to a dash of Syrah.

Click here to buy the 12-bottle case £110

At the time of our visit, the Primitivo vines were just starting to ripen

The Copper House distillery receives its first tanks – eight storage vessels expertly made by Machinery plant “ASTRA” in Lithuania. They were lifted into position by TEP Machinery movement.

Lorry arrives from Lithuania bearing the first few storage vessels.

The crane has arrived and is in position to begin moving the tanks

John, Head Distiller, looks on while the tanks are moved off the lorry.

The first tank (the 'low wines' vessel) is moved into position

The guys from TEP Machinery Movement have good heads for heights...

It's like threading a needle

Nearly there

Constant communication to the crane operator

John watches anxiously as the first of the eight tanks is lowered into position

Every move is controlled

Adnams Chairman Jonathan Adnams watches intently

Jonathan Adnams watches the first few tanks being lowered into position

It's all going to plan

Unhooking the 'low wines' tank from the crane is quite a stretch

John has his tape measure out...

Paul Hester, Brewery Engineer, looks on from a safe distance

Tank number two looms into view

A windless morning is ideal for the crane and tanks to remain steady

The team from TEP take great care to position the tanks gently and accurately.

The Copper House distillery has one of the best views in Southwold

It's that tape measure again...

It's going to fit in here

Number 3 tank is on its way up. Good view of The Swan's garden!

An unusual sight. Tank hovers above Southwold

Watching the decent

Tiny adjustments

Another lovely view from the distillery. It's now just after 1pm, and it's starting to cloud over.

Sean is capturing the action on our digital camcorder

John looks on...

More tanks are craned in

Tightly packed, but not yet in the correct position

The tanks are guided in by hand

Even though he's read the manual a thousand times, John's just checking something...

Fergus, our Head Brewer, has seen it all before

Tank number 7 arrives

It's starting to get a bit of a squeeze

Paul easing the tank on its way

Everyone gathers to witness the final tank being slotted into place

Lots of delicate manoeuvering is required, as well as good spatial awareness

It WILL go in

The final tank is almost there

John is relieved and delighted. All the tanks are safely in position.

Following our successful New Zealand, French, Spanish and several other sell-out  dinners, our latest adventure in wining & dining took us on a trip around the planet with Chris, Adnams Stamford Manager presenting a ‘staff favourites’ dinner evening.

Guests received a glass of the delicious sparkling Gotas de plata on arrival. Peter wowed us all once again with a delightful 5 course menu, consisting of a palate cleanser Tomato & basil essence. The reds, we decided, somewhat unconventionally to serve with the starter.

Home cured bresaola rocket salad & truffle oil, the combination of peppery rocket, rich bresaola and sublime truffle worked perfectly with the chosen reds, Chateau Barreyre, Valpolicella Ripasso Fasoli Gino and Tattybogler Pinot Noir. After this a palate cleanser of home made tangy peach sorbet was served, followed by pan fried sea bream – butternut squash puree – char grilled baby gems, accompanied with the whites, Malvasia Bianca, Paul Buisse Sauvignon and Domaine de L’harmonie Chablis.

Finally, if we had room for any more, a most beautiful assiette of a celebration of English strawberries ,strawberry sorbet, strawberry coulis, strawberry jelly, clotted cream and shortbread paired perfectly with the nectar peachiness of Coteaux Du Layon.

Dinner speaking is a tall order, even for the most experienced, however Chris pulled this off expertly. A superb talk that finished off the evening perfectly.

The evening was a huge success and much praise was given. A most enjoyable event. Already we have reservations for our forthcoming dinners. Look out for more coming soon from the Team at Adnams Stamford

Two Sardinian delights. Bottarga 'Sardinian caviar'. Best served thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil. Mirto is a liqueur made with wild myrtle berries, enjoy as a digestive.

Over a platter of seafood (tremendous Octopus) a debate raged about corks. Was our bottle showing at it’s best; Lucien adamantly thought not but it still took a good 10 minutes debate between us all before sending it back. If I did not have the benefit of the winemaker in front of me, I would have thought the wine was simply average. The second bottle illustrated why the call had been made – a more expressive, zingy wine and one that pleased Flavio and Lucien. The debate on closure is always in the air and this is a prime example of how corks can impact on a wine in a subtle way. At Adnams we support both cork and screw cap; both have their merits and drawbacks but perhaps that’s for a separate blog!

Wine cellars, Pallavicini

A couple of hours later we arrived at the gates of Principe Pallavicini. The Pallavicini’s aren’t your regular Roman family, they’re one of the oldest, noble-families in Italy. Their wine offices are full of rustic charm rather than noble shine, however. We sat down to taste with Carlo, their winemaker, and leisurely toured through 12 of their wines. A good chunk of time was taken discussing Malvasia, specifically, which Malvasia clone is best. I was informed that Malvasia Puntinata (which is used here, of course) was the right and proper one – full of aromatic, delicate tones.

Vintages are so influential in Italy and we tasted a great example. The “1670” Malvasia Semillon blend was strikingly different over 2 years. Okay, the blend had changed 10% in favour of Semillon but the wine was distinctly different:
2006 – silk, ripe fruit more akin to Riesling
2007 – ground white pepper aromas and citrus on the palate

Casa Romana vineyards, Pallavicini

Casa Romana Pallavicini’s premium red is a blockbuster blend of Cabernet and Petit Verdot, coming from a single site on the estate. If grapes could choose where to grow, this vineyard would as popular as Southwold beach on a summer’s day! Vines climb up the slopes of a volcanic cone and capture glorious sunshine and just enough breeze. On a clear day the Petit Verdot can see St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. I had to take their word for it as haze obstructed my view!

After walking the vineyards, admiring walnut and fig trees and seeing the Roman handy-work in the cellars, we had a short drive to a local restaurant. The highlight was a local delicacy of stuffed courgette flowers with ricotta and anchiovies. I’m still thinking of them as Ryan Air whisks us to Sardinia…

Walnuts... beautifully perfumed, they should be bottled!