The video below goes through the process I used for making the sawhorses.

This is the template I used in the video for the legs to get the curve. The image below is too big for one sheet of paper. You’ll have to print it out on two sheets and tape it together.

I use these all the time, not just for woodworking but also as legs for a short stool. If you enjoy content like this, please consider subscribing to our newsletter.

Leveling Furring Strips on Exterior Walls

The furring strips are the base we’ll install the siding on later. If we don’t level them out, there’s a good chance we’ll get some waves in the final look of the siding.

Starting around the Windows

I used the area around the windows as a reference point because I didn’t want to look down the wall and see a bowed-out area around the windows when the corrugated steel is installed.

Some of the furring strips above the window were touching the shiplap so they had to be trimmed.

Installing Reference String to Level the Wall

Mark off increments where you will attach string along the wall as a guide. I marked every 2 feet starting from the bottom.

Install nails and run the string across the side of the building.

Leveling the Furring Strips

I ended up using door and window shims to level the furring strips. They’re inexpensive when you buy the contractor pack.

Leveling Without Reference String

There were some areas, specifically around the front door and windows, that using leveling string wouldn’t work. With these I used the largest level I had to span reference areas, like the corners and wood around the door.

Installing J Channel Around the Windows and Door

There were two videos that really helped me with the installation of the J channel around the windows and door. The first one gives you quick fundamentals and the second one goes into a lot of details.

Tips:

• Do a test fit before you cut your corners.
• Take your time and watch how you cut the angles on the corner. Don’t cut that 45 degree in the wrong direction.
• Make sure to slide the corners so the metal overlaps with the other piece for a tight connection and professional look

Installing J Channel Where the Wall Meets the Soffit

From what I’ve seen online, you would normally cover the J Channel with an outside corner piece, but I’m going to use it like in the pictures below.

I had a hard time trying to find a resource on installing the J channel where the walls meet the soffit.  Despite that, I figured there were a couple of things to think of.

• The chances of driving rain getting in where the J channel meets the soffit are pretty slim to none.
• You have to account for the angle of the side and not the front and back.
• Using an overlapping technique on the corner is going to be easier than doing a 45 degree angle with the slope of the side.

You can use a piece of scrap J channel and scribe a line or an adjustable angle guide to get the angle you’ll cut on the J channel.

I ended up getting the angle close enough and got creative with some bending to make it look right, at least from a distance.

Nails didn’t work well on the furring strips.  I ended up using 1 ¼” exterior screws to attach both the J Channel and bottom drip edge.

Installing Drip Edge Base Trim for Corrugated Steel

This really isn’t necessary because the corrugated steel would hang inches from the gravel allowing any water to freely flow down without coming back onto the building. But hey, we’ve gone overboard in previous phases, why stop now?

Stapling Up the Bug Screen

If you just staple the screen up, there will be a gap between the drip edge and the screen. Fold the screen so it forms a flat surface on the bottom.

Drip Edge Install

When you do the install, it’s important to make sure the drip edge is level. Even though you won’t have the siding sit on the bottom of the drip edge, a level drip edge not only looks good but will give you a good reference for the siding install.

The following video helped me with details (around the 2 minute mark) of an outside corner drip edge install.

I spray painted the drip edge that would be seen after the install before installing it.

Install the drip edge 3/8 to ½ inch below the bottom of the shed wall.

Just like the J Channel install, I predrilled the drip edge and installed it with exterior grade screws. Using nails would be possible if the installation was on a different substrate like OSB or plywood. The furring strips over rigid foam had issues with providing enough resistance to easily drive nails in.

Make sure you overlap your drip edge if you have to use multiple pieces.

This part of the project was fairly inexpensive compared to others. I lucked out and was able to get my J channel on clearance.

Now that we have the J channel up and drip edge in place, we can move on to the siding prep and install. If you want content like this sent to your inbox when it’s available, please subscribe using the subscribe now area at the top right.

Below is the corresponding video to show you how to make the project and fix things when they go wrong.

The download for the Sketchup drawing I used in this project is near the end of the article. 

Materials 

Below are most of the items needed for this project.  I didn’t list the tools you’ll need or the optional things like paint and water proofing materials. 

• (4) 50lb bags of Quikrete 5000 
• QT Home House Numbers
• 4′ x 4′ sheet of ¾”concrete form material (see below for Concrete Form choices) 
• ½” concrete form material (see below for Void Area choices) 
• 2″ screws for form building 
• Concrete reinforcement – either wire mesh or rebar 
• At least 1″ diameter steel tube (optional for post) 
• Polyurethane Construction Adhesive 
• Solar Strip Light 
• ¼” Irrigation Tubing 

Choosing Material for the Concrete Form 

In the video and instruction, I’m using some hobby grade ¾” plywood I already had.  Your choice of concrete form material will affect the texture on your final project.  If you use plywood with a heavy grain pattern on it, there is a chance that pattern will show up in the concrete.  Using something like a melamine coated particle board will produce a smooth surface. 

Choosing Material for the Void Areas

I learned this this hard way.  There is a really good chance the void areas will not come out cleanly when you remove the form.  I used some 1/2″ plywood in my first experimental pillar.  The void area separated from the form and I spent a good amount of time chiseling out the plywood.  I’d recommend using ½” rigid foam.  Even if you have to remove it from the void, it’ll come out way easier than plywood.

LED Solar Mechanism Void 

We need to create a void in the top of the pillar that the LED solar mechanism will sit in.  When you measure out the void, 

• You want the solar mechanism to sit snugly on the sides in the void when you’re done.   
• Leave yourself between ¼ – 3/8 inch of space at the bottom where the mechanism will sit.  This will give you some wiggle room for the cables. 

Learn from my mistakes. 

• Make your void out of rigid foam.  It took a bit of time to get that wood block out of the concrete. 
• Measure a couple of times before making your void.  Although it’s a learning experience to chisel out the void to fit, you probably don’t need that question going through your head, “Am I going to mess this up?”  That’s what was going through my head for sure. 

Concrete Tips 

If you are unfamiliar with mixing concrete, the video below is a good place to start with fundamentals.

In this project I used Quikrete 5000 mix in 50lb bags.  The subsequent information is specific to that.  Here are the manufacturer’s instructions and specifications.

How Much Water Should I Use? 

The manufacturer’s instructions say that you should use 6 pints of water per 80lb bag of 5000 mix and not to exceed 10 pints.  Why is there such a range?  If you watched the video, it stated that the more water you use the weaker your concrete will be.  The manufacturer is saying that 6 pints is the ideal amount of water to use but realizes that you might need more to get the concrete to the workable consistency you need for your project. 

So, with a bit of simple math, this means that for the 50lb bags I used in the project video the range would be 3.75 – 6.25 pints of water.  I know, who uses pint?  Here’s a conversion to make it easier. 

3.75 – 6.25 pints = 7.5 – 12.5 cups 

If that’s still too much and you’re an eyeballing it type of person, you can use anywhere between 

½ a gallon to less than ¾ of a gallon of water 

Just remember to add a little bit of water at a time after that minimum recommended amount to get the concrete workable.  You’ll be surprised at how it will all of a sudden come together. 

How Long Should I Wait Before Taking the Concrete Out of the Form? 

You might assume that by using 5000 psi concrete mix means you get 5000 psi in compressive strength as soon as you see it harden in the form.  That is not the case.  For any concrete mix, the rated compressive strength is after 28 days of curing.   

You can see how this concrete mix cures and its compressive strength in the chart below.

When you are doing this project, the minimum time I would let the concrete sit in the form would be 3 days.  This will get you to 50% of the strength.  Even then, I would wait till the 7^th day before removing foam out of the void areas to be safe.  Better to wait and get minimal chip out on the void corners.

What if I Need to Apply a Smooth Coat to Fill Small Air Pockets? 

The mix I used for my skim coat was. 

• SikaLatex Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier 
• Portland Cement 

The concrete bonding adhesive instructions tell you to use it like water when mixing it with a cementitious, fancy word for cement like, product.  I mixed this with the Portland cement until it was the consistency of pancake batter. 

You can use a drywall joint knife to spread the skim coat.  There were some areas like inside the number void area that I had to apply the skim coat with my hands and scrape the area smooth. 

Let the skim coat set till the next day before sanding it. 

How do I Re-Connect the Wires? 

There are a couple of ways to reconnect the wires after you cut them.  The video below goes over a number of ways you can connect wires. 

Painting in the House Number Void 

When I initially set the house numbers in the void, it became quickly evident that something needed to be done to make the numbers more visible, either paint the numbers or paint behind the numbers.  I liked the stainless look of the numbers, so painting behind them it was. 

I decided on using a porch paint instead of masonry paint designed for vertical surfaces.  I’m sure you could use either one with success, but porch paint is designed to be walked on and exposed to the elements.  I’m hoping the extra durability of the porch paint will translate into a longer lasting product. 

I don’t have a brand preference but wanted a paint that didn’t have a gloss finish.  A high gloss paint behind the numbers would detract from the numbers. 

Installing the Numbers 

Here are some tips for installing the numbers 

• Mark a center line as a reference. 
• Use the installation spikes for the house numbers on the center reference line.   
• The number 1 was an odd one.  My first instinct was to center it but keeping with the tip above I think it looks better offset a little. 
• Do as many test layouts as you can and get your significant other as another set of eyes.   
• Use a nail to create a divot for your drill bit to go into.  This will keep your drill bit from moving around. 
• Start with the outside numbers and work your way to the center. 

Sketchup File 

This is the Sketchup file used in making the concrete pillar for the house number project.  There are 2 fronts for the form, one for 3 house numbers and one for 4 house numbers.  You will need to unzip the file after downloading it.

You can view this file using the SketchUp Desktop Viewer. 

How to open a SketchUp file in the SketchUp Desktop Viewer. 

This project file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International (CC BY-NC 4.0). 

Please use the following for attribution 

—————————————————
Adventures In DIY – Make an Epic Concrete Pillar with Backlit House Numbers
https://www.adventuresindiy.com
—————————————————

Closing Thoughts

This modern concrete pillar with backlit house numbers really pops in the day and night time. Last bit of advise, there are a couple of settings for the LED lights. You’ll have to select the constant on setting unless you want to mess with people and have them flash on and off every half second. Make sure you subscribe to our youtube channel and this website to make sure you get the latest content.

Pricing of this part and a project total are at the end of the article

The video below gives you an overview of this step.

Do I Need Soffit Venting?

The first thing that popped into my mind was, do I need venting for my soffits? 

No.  Soffit vents are traditionally part of the intake ventilation for venting an attic space and since there’s no attic in my “shed” structure it’s not something I need to worry about.

If it was necessary, the requirement for attic venting is 1 square foot of venting for every 300 square feet of attic space, and the total venting space should be at least shared equally between the soffit and roof vents.

If you really want to go down a rabbit hole of learning about ventilation, Ownes Corning put out a Ventilation Training Manual that’s worth reading, even if it’s to understand your house a little better.

Painting the Shiplap

It really wasn’t necessary to paint the shiplap before putting it up.  It came already primed and I could have painted it after putting it up.  The important thing is that you don’t install the primed shiplap and wait a long time to paint it with an exterior paint.  The primer isn’t meant to be exposed for a long period of time.

I really lucked out and came across this paint for $3 / gallon clearance.  I don’t really know the final paint color for the soffits so this will work great in the meantime.  Truthfully, it’ll stay this color…..

I started with the back of the shiplap first because why not when your paint is $3 a gallon.  A medium to heavy nap roller made short work of this.

Once the back dried enough, the shiplap was flipped over and the rabbeted part of the shiplap was painted with a brush.

Where to Start the Shiplap?

We wanted the shiplap to run horizontal from the front all the way to the back.  The question is where to start?  There were a couple of things I thought of when trying to decide on how to install the shiplap.

• One thing was certain, people would look at the front more than the back.
• Where did I want to make custom cuts?
• When I had to make custom cuts and create the shiplap rabbet, did I want to do it on longer pieces?

After doing some measurements, it was apparent there was going to be an 1 ½ strip that would have to be dealt with in the front.  If I started in the very front of the soffit working back, I would have to deal with long cutout on the 5^th course of shiplap. 

One of the problems I saw was that if I did this cutout where the thinner strip was along the front wall, I could only nail and glue it to the rafters.  Where if I did this strip at the front of the soffit area, I could glue and nail it to the sub-fascia 2 by lumber.  This would make sure there was less of a chance of the wood warping.

The final decision we made, cause I like to have my wife make sure I’m not just talking crazy, was to do a full course of shiplap along the front and back wall of the shed and do adjustment cuts at the very front, back and any side adjustments of the soffit area.

Putting in the Front Soffit Shiplap

With all that figured out, let’s get installing.  If you don’t want that shiplap going anywhere, use a combination of adhesive and nails.

The shiplap I’m using is a combination of 12′ and 8′ pieces.  Measure to cut a 12′ piece.  Make sure you are measuring to the center of a joist.

The tape measure kept coming unhooked, so I had to do the long measurement in two sections.

Just a side note, I’ve been using this Evolution Sliding Miter Saw for most of this project.  It’s been a solid performer the whole time.

I’m starting the first course installation with the longer board first, then moving to measuring and nailing in the shorter one.

When you install the other courses of shiplap, make sure you overlap the joints.  To make sure we do that, just alternate the side you’re doing the long cut boards on.

Bolstering Up the Sides Before Installing the Back Soffit

If we were installing the shiplap perpendicular the side rafter blocking there wouldn’t be a problem, but since we’re installing it parallel, we need to have something to nail to on the shed wall side.  We’ll layer up 2x4s on the side rafter to do this.

Apply a layer of glue, if you want to be excessive, between the first 2×4 layer and the second.

We’re doing this now before installing the first course of shiplap on the back side of the shed soffit.

Installing the Only Full Course of Shiplap on the Back Side

There’s only one full course of shiplap to install on the back soffit area.  Just make sure you pay attention to the orientation of your board.  Just like the front, do a long cut and short cut board.  We’ll come back and do all the custom cuts later.

Installing Full Course Shiplap for the Sides

Now we can start installing the shorter shiplap pieces along the sides of the shed.  We’re going to install pieces until there is 2 feet between the back shiplap course and the side courses.

Just like the other sides, use adhesive and galvanized brad nails to attach the shiplap.  Make sure you have the shiplap fit as close to the fascia edge as much as possible.

Doing Custom Cuts for the Front and Back Soffit

The front and back custom cuts are going to be the easiest.  It’s a matter of measuring the gap, ripping the shiplap and then installing it.

Make sure you’re keeping track of which side you need to rip the shiplap on!

Before you start gluing and nailing things in place, do yourself a favor and dry fit it.  I made that mistake once 😊

The back soffit custom install is the same as the front one.  It’s worth saying twice, watch the shiplap orientation when you do your rip cuts and make sure you do a dry fit.

Custom Cuts for the Side Soffits

The reason the cuts for the side soffits are more complicated is that we will have to replicate the rabbet on the one side of the shiplap. 

We’re only going to modify one side of the shiplap.  I chose to cut and modify the rabbet that faces down.

Measure the distance you want to do the cuts for.

Our soffit gap was right around 2 feet on one side and just over 2 feet on the other side.  For the sake of the article, we’ll look at the 2 foot side.  This means that we were going to remove right about ½ inch from each width of the 4 boards. 

One thing I didn’t account for was the 1/16 inch gap that’s created between the boards.  Because of that, I had to modify the last board put in to fit.  Instead of ½ inch I should have cut 9/16 off each board.

After trimming the board to width, use multiple passes with the tablesaw to make the rabbet.

It’s always good to use some off cuts and do test cuts to make sure it will look good.

Just like the other shiplap, you’ll glue and nail them in place.

You might notice some inconsistent gaps along the corner fascia area.  That will get hidden with some caulk in the next step.

Caulking Around the Seams

Last thing to do is caulk between the shiplap and fascia and where the long cut lengths meet the short ones.  Try not to fill in the nickel gap when you caulk where the shiplap buts up against each other.

Project Total

This was one of the more inexpensive parts of the shed build at right around $216.  I lucked out with finding the paint clearance for $3. 

If you want content like this sent to your inbox when it’s available, please subscribe using the subscribe now area at the top right.

The video below will give you an overview of the process.

Verifying and Modifying the Rough Opening

Make sure the rough opening is plumb and square.  Measure out the rough opening to make sure it’s square. Measuring diagonally will tell you how close to square you are. It’s easier with a friend by the way.

You can check for plumb with a level.

Also, measure the door to make sure it is ½ -¾ inch smaller than the rough opening.

My door is 80 ½ inches tall and the rough opening was 82 inches.  Manufacturer’s instructions recommends a 3/8 “ 1/2 inch gap at the top.  I used layers of OSB leftover from other parts of the build to reduce the gap to right around 81 inches.

Installing the Sill Pan

There are a couple of ways you can make your own sill pan but I ended up purchasing one made from high impact ABS plastic.

Fitting the Sill Pan

Put the corners from the kit in place.

Make sure to measure twice. You only get one cut with this.

Gluing the Sill Pan Together

Do a dry fit of everything before we glue up the sill pan.

Apply PVC Cement that comes with the kit to the recessed areas of the side pieces and the underside of the center piece where it overlaps the sides.

Finally Installing the Sill Pan

Apply 3 beads of silicon caulking to adhere the sill pan to the sill.

Press the sill pan into place.

Flashing the Sides of the Door Opening

If I used a water resistive barrier house wrap, like Tyvek, instead of treating the rigid foam as a WRB, there would be house wrap wrapped around to the inside of the rough opening.  To make up for this, we’re going to flash the sides.  Just like when we installed windows in the previous article, cut flashing the height of the door opening.

When you apply the flashing, make sure there is at least 2 inches of the flashing on the exterior.

Installing the Door

When I was researching how to install the door, I found this article by Fine Home Building to be very helpful.  What makes the door I purchased more of a pain to install is that it doesn’t have a fin on the exterior.  If I were to do this again, I would make sure the door has a fin, similar to the windows, even if I had to re-frame the opening to accommodate the different door.

Laying a Bead of Caulk on the Sill Pan

Right before you’re ready to install the door, lay a bead of caulk along the interior edge of the sill pan.  This will help with air infiltration.

We’re also going to apply a bead of caulk along the seams where the sill pan was glued for good measure.

Set the Door In-Place

Set the door in place, making sure the back of the door makes solid contact with the sealant we applied above.  This is where it gets a little tricky for me because my door doesn’t have fins to keep it flush with the exterior framing.  This is the time to call in your friends for help.

Shim the Door

Similar to installing the windows, it’s easier to share the videos that helped me.  The first one is installing a single door but provides good fundamentals.

This next one is good for understanding the gaps around the doors.

Just like when we were shimming the windows, take your time.  Double check that everything is level and plumb.  If it’s not, just loosen the screws and start again.

Install the Backer Rope and Seal the Outside

We’re going to use 1/2 inch backer rope, so we don’t have to fill the void between the door and rough opening with so much sealant.

Once that’s done, use some exterior grade sealant to fill the gap.

Making the Trim

The other trim around the windows is 1 1/4 inches in depth.  I want the trim around the door to mimic the windows but finding something premade that’s that depth is kind of a pain.  So, I’m using going to modify some 2×3 boards.  First cause their cheap and second cause their cheap.

The wood has a round over on the corners.  For our shed, I want sharper corners so I’m milling the wood on a tablesaw.

Modifying Trim to Fit the Door

Using a premade sill pan has caused the door to protrude about a 1/4 of an inch from being flush with the framing.  To compensate for this, I’m going to create a rabbet on the trim where it will overlap with the door frame.

I’m using a saw to do mine, but you could use a router if you had one.

The rabbet is cut so the trim will overlap the door frame about halfway making sure to keep a little space behind the hinge.

I’m pre-painting all sides of the board.  Even though we’ll caulk around the edges, this will help keep water from penetrating the wood if some gets behind it.

Install Trim Around the Door

Now it’s a matter of cutting the trim to fit and install it. For the corners, I’m just mitering them. I used screws to temporarily install the pieces to make sure they fit and then switched to nails.

I was using some nails that were 2 1/2 inches long at first, then I had an internal conversation and decided I didn’t want these ever coming off.  At that point, I swapped those out for some 4-inch galvanized nails.  Never coming off.

Caulking Around the Trim

To help combat water getting into the door area, we’ll caulk around the exterior and where the trim meets the door frame.  Remember to use an exterior rated caulk.

Painting the Doors

I did a two color paint job for the doors. White semi-gloss interior / exterior urethane alkyd enamel paint was used on the inside part of the door. For the exterior, I used Rustoleum Smoke Gray enamel paint.

To get started, we’ll need to loosen the security pin that is screwed in on the center of the hinges. Once this is done, the pins can be popped out and the doors removed.

Make it easy for yourself and remove the hinge and all the hardware from the door. Keep all the screws and hinges in a plastic bag so you don’t lose them.

I used a smooth foam roller to apply the white paint and a paint brush for the sides.

There was a series of painful events that were the reason it took me three tries to get the paint job done to my satisfaction. Well, I guess there is one silver lining is that you know if something like a fly lands on your paint and dies you just need to sand the surface till it’s smooth and paint again.

Before I get into the lessons, I used a Graco TrueCoat 360 DSP electric airless portable sprayer. I really like the sprayer for smaller jobs like this. Cleanup wasn’t that bad either.

Tips I Learned from Painting the Doors 3 Times

1. If you’re using Rustoleum from a can, thin it just a little bit. I put in about a 1/3 of a cup of paint thinner in the 32oz. Graco Flexliner bag. So you don’t have to do the calculation with Google, that’s 1/3 cup of thinner to 4 cups of paint. The more viscous fluid allows you to lay down a thinner coat for faster drying and smooth finish.
2. Start your paint sprayer on a lower setting and do some test runs.
3. Spray the paint with the doors laying flat. I didn’t do that for the first coat and didn’t do tip #1. I immediately saw paint building up and moving.
4. Protect your paint project while it dries. Make sure it has as little exposure to the elements as possible. If you can’t create a spray room like I did in the video, watch out for these things
   1. Sun. This accelerated the drying in one area on my door causing the paint to have a crackle affect.
   2. Night temperature fluctuations that cause condensation. Yes, that happened to me…..
   3. Wind. Try not to spray on a windy day.

Eventually I turned the inside of the shop into a spray booth with some plastic, thinned the paint and didn’t have a fly die on one of the doors.

Drilling the Secondary Door Bolts

The secondary door bolts are the sliding bolts that go into the door frame on the non primary door.

• Make the door flush with the front edge
• Mark the center of where the security pin touches the door frame
• Drill the hole for the pin with a slightly larger drill bit.

Installing the Lockset

If you’ve been following this series, you know by this point that this project is no longer just a shed to throw a lawnmower in. This will eventually be a focal point in the backyard and a selling feature for our house eventually. Because of this, we chose a more modern and not so cheap lockset.

What I liked about this lockset is the plate backing on the front and large square surround on the inside pieces. These features would allow me a little fudge factor.

Depending on your lockset, you’ll need to drill some holes. The kit will come with a template for this. The most time consuming piece for me was aligning the template with the predrilled holes on the doors.

It was really nerve wracking drilling the holes for the deadbolt area. What made it easier was the Ryobi lockset drill guide. All I can say is measure a whole bunch of times and take your time.

My door didn’t have a traditional striker plate area. The secondary door has an aluminum piece that is the length of the door. This is where the latch snaps into. I had to modify this area to get the latch to close effortlessly.

I had to do the same thing for the deadbolt area along with drilling the side of the door with a forsner bit. It’s not necessary to drill any deeper than needed for the deadbolt to catch.

Installing the Drip Edge Above the Door

The last thing to do is install a drip edge over the trim. This will help with water getting behind the trim and into the door frame.

The drip edge is a 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch piece of drip edge flashing. Use roofing nails to install it. When you nail it in place, nail in the top third of the flashing.

Costs

This part of the project cost $1,063.85 bringing the project total to $4,925.74. There are a couple of small items that need to be done before the siding can be put on. If you want content like this sent to your inbox when it’s available, please subscribe using the subscribe now area at the top right.

Below is the overview video for installing the windows in our work shed.

Originally, this article is what I used as a reminder for each of the installation steps.  All this is based off the original installation instructions from the manufacturer.  It now includes additional material so you can make informed decisions about your install.  A good start for any project is to do a web search to find the manufacturer’s installation instructions for your windows before starting.

I used this video as a reference for my install.

Rough Opening Verification

Measure the rough opening to make sure it’s at least ½ – ¾ inch larger than the window.

Make sure the rough opening is level and plumb.

Do a dry fit to confirm the window will fit.

Preparing the Opening

We’re going to install all the necessary flashing and shims before we install the windows.

Sill Flashing

I’m treating my wall as if it’s a water resistive barrier like a zip wall.  If you’re installing sill flashing on more of a traditional structure and you’re not using a flexible flashing as a sill pan, the video below will help you.

No matter what, if you want to be rock solid on your corners you could use a combination of window flashing corners and flashing tape.

Below is a video on how to use these flashing corners

With all that said, let’s get going on how Pella suggested I install the sill flashing.

Cut a piece of flashing tape so it’s 12 inches longer than the rough opening.  This is so the tape will go up 6 inches on each side of the sill.

Apply the flashing tape so there is at least 2 inches on the exterior and 6 inches up each side of the jambs.

Cut the corner flashing to match the picture below.

Jamb Flashing

Cut 2 pieces equal to the height of the opening.

Apply the flashing on each of the sides with at least 2 inches on the exterior.

Install the Bottom Shims

These shims are a chance to level the windows if there is any variance in the rough opening.  We’re looking to create a 1/4 – 3/8 inch gap at the bottom of the window.  I’m using a composite shim for this with the hope that if water gets in, they will be less affected by it.

The shims will be placed parallel with the rough opening.

Cut 4 pieces of the shim 1 inch long and 5/8 – 3/4 inch wide.  One set of 2 for each side. When you stack two pieces on top of each other you will get a 1/4 – 3/8 inch gap. In the case of the 4 foot windows, I used 3 sets shims for a little extra support.

You’ll shift the shims till they are level.

Make sure you leave a little gap in the front of the shims so they won’t touch the window flange.

Use flashing tape to attach the shims to prevent them from moving.

Setting the Window In Place

Now we’re going to put the window in place, check that everything is square and plumb and attach the window in place.

The manufacturer’s instruction didn’t mention using a silicon sealant but several references I looked at all used it.  So I decided to make it part of the install.

Apply a bead of silicon sealant on the sides and top of the window opening before setting the window in place. Don’t apply any to the bottom. This will give water a way to get out if for some reason some gets in around the window.

Set the window in place. Make sure you place the window on the shim spacers we installed previously.

Go inside the shed and make sure the window is centered side to side in the opening.

Put a screw in each of the top corners to hold the window in place.  Don’t over drive these.  We want to have a little play when plumbing and shimming in the next step.

The manufacturer suggested using screws with washers.  If you can find screws with a large head like the SPAX powerdrive, it will save you time but cost more.  I went with a #8 2 inch exterior screw and #10 stainless steel washer.

Plumbing and Shimming the Window

The video below really helped me learn how to shim the windows.

Remember to take your time with this.  It will affect how well the window will operate.

Part of shimming is checking to make sure your windows are plumb and square. I found the video below helpful.

Drive 2 more screws into the bottom corners of the nailing fin.

Double check the square and plumb one last time.

Finish Driving Fasteners in the Nailing Fin

Now it’s a matter of driving the rest of the screws in.

Flashing Outside the Window

We’re going to apply flashing on the sides and top of the outside fins of the windows.

Cut 2 pieces of flashing 4 inches longer than the fin sides.

Install the flashing to the sides so it covers the side fin and extends 2 inches above and below the side fin area.

Cut and install a piece of flashing on the top so it goes past at least 1 inch on both side flashing tape.

Sealing with Spray Foam

When you buy your spray foam, make sure it’s for doors and windows.  This foam is designed so it won’t push your doors and windows out of whack.

Don’t worry if your foam goes a little crazy.  It comes off of the vinyl frame pretty easy.

Cost

This was one of the most expensive parts of the build, mostly because of the windows I chose.  For example, the front windows are single panel dual pane with argon gas in between.   I could have cut some cost by choosing some different windows, but I’ll spend summers in this structure and I’m hoping the better windows help out.

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The video below goes over some of the reasons we’re going with a prehung door. Quite frankly the real reason is time. I talked about some of the weather concerns but there are a lot of features a prehung door provides that would be hard to replicate.

Why We Chose a Prehung Outward Swinging Door

We ended up purchasing a Reliabilt fiberglass 60 inch outward swinging double door. The unfortunate part is that with tax it came out to almost $770. Let’s take a look at what that’s getting us.

Security

It’s really hard to kick in an outward swinging door because the way the doors sit in the jamb. A potential pitfall of an outward swinging door is to not have security hinges. If you have normal hinges, a burglar can pop the pin from the hing and take the door off. We made sure we got security hinges.

Construction

I mentioned in the video that the shed front door will take a beating in the summer. Fiberglass doors are really durable products. Not only is the one we purchased Energy Star Certified but it will resist the dents and dings you would get with a steel door. It’s also white to help reflect the heat.

Paying for the Door

My wife and I believe in saving up money to purchase items. We’ve paid cash for each stage of this project. We paid for the door by

• Saving money each week – I give myself an allowance each week for random expenditures. I was able to save a majority of that.
• Selling items we no longer use – There were some tools and other items that we hadn’t used in a long time.
• Selling scrap, like aluminum, copper and components with metals – I was able to salvage around $70 by scrapping old electrical motors and other stuff collected over time.
  

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The video below will show you the overview of what we’re going to cover.

You’re probably wondering why I plan on installing exterior insulation.  I’m going to work in this structure during the summer and winters of Las Vegas.  That means hot, over 120 F some days, and really harsh winds in the winter.  Also….. I’m using this as a chance to learn carpentry on a small scale.

An important note – The best combination is to install a house wrap under the rigid insulation.  If you are doing this then it needs to be done before you bump out your windows.  I plan on doing stucco on the exterior which will have 2 layers of weather resistant paper under it as an additional water plane.

If you don’t plan on going overboard like me, you can just do the section on installing the OSB on the upper sections of the sides.

Finish the Install of OSB on the Side Walls

Just like the installation of the other sheathing we want to have a ½ inch gap at the top where the walls meet the roof.

To make it easy, I hammered in some nails to help line up the board.

Stop for a second and look at the section of the wall you’re going to install the OSB on.

Remember we need to install the OSB so it will meet another piece in the center of the interior studs.

Grab yourself an oversized piece of OSB and flip it over so the outside face is facing to the inside of the shed.

Line up that oversized piece of OSB with those marks we just made.

Mark the bottom of that piece where it overlaps with the already installed OSB on the wall.  This is going to give us the angle we need for the top.

Now you’ll line a piece of scrap wood so you can use a circular saw to cut the angled section.

Make sure you keep the scrap side of this cut.  We’ll be using it later as a template to cut the other pieces of OSB we’ll need.

Line up the oversized piece of OSB we just cut with the front wall and mark where it sits in the center of a stud.

Cut the OSB and nail it in place.

For the rest of the upper OSB panels you’re going to use the scrap side of that first cut as a guide.

You just need to measure the widest section of the area you want to fill in.

Find yourself a piece of OSB that is oversized like before.

Line up side edge of your guide with the side of the piece you want to cut.

Adjust it for the circular saw you’re using and cut away.

Bumping Out the Door and Window Areas for Rigid Foam Insulation

Like I talked about above, if the area you’re building requires you to use a weather resistant barrier (WRB), like house wrap, then you need to install that before you bump out the window and door areas.  The video below will help you with that install if you need it.

Back to the build.

Starting with the Door

Let’s make everything easy by using butt joints.  We’re going to start by measuring the door area for the 2x4s we’ll use.

From there we’ll cut the first pieces to length.  I’m doing the sides first but doing the sides or top and bottom first really doesn’t matter.

Small clamps are great for helping you hold the 2x4s in place while you nail them in place with galvanized nails.

Now all you have to do is repeat the process for the top and bottom bump outs.

Bumping Out the Windows for Rigid Foam

Doing the bump out for the windows is very similar to the door.  The one thing we’re going to do different is angle the bottom 2×4 so if water gets in, it will have an easy path out.  So I didn’t forget to do this I started with the top and bottom 2x4s instead of the sides like with the door.

Angling the Bottom 2×4 of the Windows

To get this angle we’re going to shave down one side of the top of the bottom 2×4 by 1/8″.

I used a hand plane to make my angle, but you can use a circular saw or table saw with the blade set at a slight angle to make the cut.

Don’t forget to install the bottom 2×4 so the downward angle is facing out.

Everything else is done just like the door install.

Costs

The sheathing for this part was done with scraps from the previous wall and roof sheathing.  It was the same for the galvanized nails.  Those were left over from a previous purchase.  Only thing I needed to buy was the 2x4s.

Hopefully this article helped you get started on building your shed.  If you found this interesting please think about signing up for our email list and get content sent straight to your email when it gets released. Also, we are on the social media sites above and YouTube.

The video below will give you an overview of what we’re going to cover.

Making and Installing the Fascia

Before we install the shingles let’s put the final fascia on.  Of course, because we added some extra thickness with the insulated roof panels, we need to make our own.  I would suggest using something at least ½ inch thick.

I plan on putting in a soffit so that needs to be added to the overall width of the fascia.  Let’s add everything up.

7 ½ ”  for the 2×8 rafter
+
2 ½” for the three layers of the insulated roof panels
+
½” for the soffit (I’m going to just use ½” plywood)
Total = 10 ½ ” width

Cutting the Fascia

Now we’re going to rip some 1/2″ 4 x 8 sheets of plywood in 10 1/2″ widths. If you have a table saw, cutting the fascia from the plywood will be quick.  Alternatively, you can use a guide and a circular saw like I’ve done.

My cuts weren’t all the same so I used a hand plane to make them pretty even.

Priming the Fascia

I’m priming the plywood on all sides before installation.  I’m doing this to possibly help reduce moisture absorption and make it easier to paint later.

Finding the Center of the Roof Edges

We’re going to measure the center of each side of the roof.  This is where we are going to join two boards together to span the length of each side.

Cutting the 45 Degree Angle for the Fascia Center

Where the two fascia boards meet in the center, we’re going to cut a 45 degree angle.  These boards are a little too big for my miter saw so I used a circular saw and speed square.

Don’t assume the mark on your circular saw is actually 45 degrees. Use the speed square to set the 45 degree angle.

Installing the Boards

I found it easier to install one board on the side first.  The method I used in the video was what I figured out installing these by myself.  If you have two people on ladders, this will go quick.

We’re doing simple butt joints at the corners for these fascia boards.  With that said, let’s do the sides of the roof first.

Line up the 45 degree cut with the center mark on the roof side.

Level the top board with the roof line.

Clamp the board to hold it in place and mark the end of the board so it’s flush with the edge of the face of the roof.

Cut the fascia board.

Now, it’s just a matter of lining things up again and screwing the fascia board in place.  I’m going with exterior screws but if you want to save a little money you can go with galvanized nails.

With the first board in place, now you’ll

• Line up the other board, with the 45 degree overlapping
• Mark the end
• Cut the fascia to fit
• Install it in place

You’ll do the same thing for the other side of the roof.

The only difference when you’re installing the fascia for the front and back edges of the roof is, you’re lining up your cuts on the end with the newly installed side fascia boards.

When I put up the fascia, I only used a one screw every 16-18 inches.  I did this in case something horribly went wrong with the setup.  Once everything was in place and looked good, I went back and put additional screws so there was a row of screws instead of just the one.

Installing the Drip Edge

We’re going to install the drip edge so it’s away from the fascia board.  I got this from watching a video from This Old House.  They recommended installing the drip edge a ½ inch away.  This wasn’t an option with the drip edge I had.  The one they used is an 8 inch drip edge, where mine is only 2 inches.

Code is that there must be at least 2 inches of drip edge onto the roof so this method of installation isn’t an option for me.

With that said, we’re going to

• Trim and overlap the drip edge 6-8 inches
• Apply some roof sealant at the overlap

Line up the drip edge flush with the edge, and nail it in place every 12 inches using galvanized roofing nails.

So, this is something that I should have done with my install.  I should have trimmed and bent the corners of the drip edge like in this Fine Homebuilding article.

Installing the Underlayment

The installation instructions for a low angle roof calls for the underlayment to be installed so there is an overlapping double layer.  I did all my cuts a little big (about 4 inches longer than the width of the roof) on the ground and then brought the cut sheet of felt on to the roof.

Rip a measured out sheet of the underlayment to 19 inches.  Lay down and nail in place a 19 inch starter strip of underlayment over the drip edge.  Just use enough nails to hold it in place.

On top of that we’re going to put down a full 39 inch underlayment strip.

Once the felt is in position, drive in a couple nails in the corners to hold it in place.

Nail the strip in place every 8 inches on the bottom and middle of the sheet.

The second layer we put on will be 17 inches from the bottom of that layer we just put on.

For the rest of the sheets of underlayment we’re going to install it 19 inches from the bottom of the previous layer.

I used two rolls of 40# (40 pound) roof felt, and was able to use full sheets on all the rows except one.  

I put the non-full sheet on the row before the last one.  It’s recommended to overlap the seam between the sheets 12 inches.

Once you get to the last full sheet at the top, do yourself a favor and align the front edge of the felt with the front edge of the roof.

Just like the other felt sheets, we’ll nail this last full sheet in the middle and bottom.

Now we’ll use the other half of that sheet we cut at the beginning.

Install that last half sheet by lining up the front edge.

Nail it in place on the front and bottom.

Now we need to trim the underlayment flush with the side of the roof. I don’t really feel confident the just cut away with a knife so I snapped a chalk line as a guide.

Installing the Drip Edge Flashing on the Sides

We’re going to cut one of the 10-foot pieces of flashing in half.  We’ll use this to overlap with the full pieces of flashing to span the 14 feet.

Before we start installing the flashing, we need to think how the overlap joint will look when you look at it from the front.

This will help you decide which piece to overlap and where you want it placed.

With this in mind, I installed the 5 foot section we cut above at the back side of the roof.  Line up the edge of the 5 foot section with installed drip edge on the back.

Make sure the flashing is snug against the roof and put a couple nails in place to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere.

Put some flashing sealant where the two pieces of flashing will overlap.

Make the front edge of the 10 foot piece of flashing flush with the front of the roof, and nail it in place every 8 – 10 inches.

Now just repeat the process for the other side.

Installing the Shingle Starter Strip

Normally you would just put a starter strip on the back edge of the roof, but I’m really worried about high winds in my area.  It’s not uncommon for us to have at least one day where the winds get to 50 – 60 mph.  To help combat this I’m installing the starter strip on all 4 corners of the roof deck.

If you do this too, start with the front and back, and then do the sides.

Also, make sure the starter strip extends 3/8 to 1/2 inch beyond the rake and eves.

Installing Asphalt Shingles

I’m using Owens Corning Supreme shingle, mostly because they are affordable and are easily found at your local big box store. For our region, we don’t need to worry about installing an ice and water shield.  If you are in one of those regions, take a look at your shingle instructions for that install.

Shingle Nailing Pattern

Before we nailing let’s talk about nailing patterns for installing the shingles. There are two different patterns, 4 nails and 6 nails. If you aren’t worried about high winds or have a steep slope (not this project), then the 4 nail pattern should be fine. Of course I’m an over-engineering freak so I’m doing the 6 nail version.

The thing to notice beside the vertical placement of the nails is how they’re centered between the tar strip and top of the cutouts between the tabs

Installing Dem Shingles

We’re going to start by installing the first coarse of shingles using full shingles. Make them flush with the starter shingles / strip you’ve put down.

So…I made the mistake of not doing layout lines after installing my first course of shingles. Doing layout lines is a matter of

• Measuring every 5 inches from the top of the first course
• Snap a chalk line

We’re doing the line every 5 inches because that’s the shingles have a 5 inch exposure.

Installing the Second Course

Starting with the second course we need to offset the starter shingle by 6 inches before continuing with full shingle sheets. You can lay the shingle 6 inches past the edge and the trim the excess overhang.

I’m not a roofer so I figured I’d mess up trimming the overhang so I trimmed 6 inches before putting the first shingle in place. If you use the same shingles I am, there is a notch in the middle of the tab you can use as reference.

Just make sure you’re using the chalk lines we made above as installation guides. This will make sure you have a 5 inch exposure on your shingles.

Third Course Through Sixth Course

Now it’s just a matter of shifting each subsequent course by 6 inches. At least that’s what they say in the instructions. What I did was do cuts at the

• Middle of the shingle tab using the cut mark
• Full shingle tab area

The diagram below will give you an overview of the different layers of shingles with 6 inches incrementally taken out.

Finishing the Installed Courses

Now we’re going to go back and use some of those off cuts to fill in the end of the courses.

Again, I’m not a roofer so I didn’t feel confident that I wouldn’t mess up the overhang on the side by trimming the edge after installing the shingle. So I

• Laid the shingle in place
• Marked where to cut it with a knife
• Cut the piece to fit
• Nailed it in place

Now you’re just going to rinse and repeat this process until you get to the top of the roof.

The Very Last Course

This very last course is going to be covered mostly by the front flashing. Like all the courses before we want a 5 inch exposure so we’re going to mark and snap a guide line.

Now we can mark, trim and nail the last course in place.

When you’re laying these out just remember to overlap any shingle seams. Since most of this course is going to be covered by the flashing in the front I didn’t put in spacing to make it look like the other courses. Also, I was quickly running out of shingles so this row was made from all the leftover cuts and scraps.

Installing the Front Edge Flashing

The edging for the front of the roof is some 3 inch by 3 inch angled flashing. The stuff I bought was originally brown so I used some white spray paint to make it match everything else.

Now we need to measure to find the center of the roof. From there we’ll be able to cut front flashing.

When your figuring out your cuts just remember you need to have a 6-8 inch overlap.

We’re going to use flashing adhesive on the side that will sit on the asphalt shingles.

Nail the flashing in every 12 inches. If you want to be extra cautious, you can put some of the flashing adhesive on the nail heads to seal them up.

Now that the roof is done we’re going to finish up a couple of things with the upper side walls and around the windows and doors next time. Below you’ll see the cost for this part of the project along with the running total.

Hopefully this article helped you get started on building your shed.  If you found this interesting please think about signing up for our email list and get content sent straight to your email when it gets released. Also, we are on the social media sites above and YouTube.

Below is the corresponding video with this article.

This shed is going to be where I build things.   That means I’ll be out there working in the hot Las Vegas summers and very windy winters.   I’m going to treat this structure like a small house when designing and building it.   If you just want to skip all this fanciness, then jump to the section on installing the first layer of roof decking and call it good.

Unvented Roof

Your everyday home typically has a vented roof, except in cathedral ceiling areas.   This means you have an attic where air can enter through vents in the soffit and exit in several ways like

• Ridge vent
• Attic vents

Vented Roof Diagram

Simply put, unvented roofs get rid of the vents and move the thermal, air control and moisture boundaries to the roof deck.

Unvented Roof Diagram

I know this is a very basic example so if you want to read more on the topic, I’ve put some additional reading for unvented roofs at the end of this article.

Figuring Out How Much Foam is Necessary

As I mentioned above, we live in the Las Vegas desert where it’s not uncommon for summers to be 115F and up.   I mostly wanted to have a thermal break between the layer of asphalt shingles and the inside of the structure.   So, I’ll be doing rigid foam above the roof sheathing with air-permeable insulation between the rafters.

What’s Your Climate Zone?

Before we look at how much rigid foam you’ll need, we need to figure out what climate zone you’re in.   You can use the map below to help you do that.

IRC Climate Zones

How Much Insulation Do You Need?

Next, we need to figure overall out how much insulation you need in your climate zone for a ceiling.   For this we’re going to use the table below from the 2018 IECC.

Ceiling R Values

How Much Rigid Foam Goes on Top of the Roof Deck?

Last thing we need to figure out is how much rigid foam will go on top of the first layer of OSB.   For that we’re going to use the 2015 IRC table from section R806.5 Unvented attic and unvented enclosed rafter assemblies.

You might have some questions about the three different types of rigid foam out there.

• Expanded polystyrene (EPS)
• Extruded polystyrene (XPS)
• Polyisocyanurate (polyiso)

Fine Homebuilding has a good article that explains the differences between them all.

Let’s Put This Roofing On

Installing the First Layer of Roof Sheathing

We’re going to install the first layer of 16/32 ( ½ inch) OSB using the diagram below as a guide.   If you are only installing one layer of OSB for the roof then I suggest using something thicker.

Remember: This is just a guide.   Always measure because wood will dry and twist and it takes less time to measure something than it does to go buy a new sheet of OSB.

First Layer of Roof Sheathing Dimensions

Nail every 6 inches on the outside and 12 inches in the center areas.

Cutting the Top Layer of OSB

I know it seems backwards but we’re going to cut the last layer of OSB now.   We’re doing this because when we put on the layer of foam we won’t be able to easily see the rafters.

Lay down chalk lines on the first layer of OSB at the center of the rafters.

Laying Chalk Line to Measure Top Layer of Roof Deck

Once you’ve got the chalk lines you can measure out the panels to cut.   Use the diagram and mark your measurements.

Top Layer of Roof Sheathing Dimensions

Measured Top Layer of OSB

I found it easier to mark the panels so I wouldn’t get confused.

Marking the Layout Diagram for Installation of Top Layer

Marking Top Layer of OSB for Installation Later

Installing the 2×4 Edging

For my climate zone I need to install a layer of rigid foam with an R-5 value.   Lucky for me 1 ½ inch thick expanded polystyrene (EPS) rigid foam insulation is R-5.78.   The rigid foam needs to have a border, and because it’s 1 ½ inches thick standard 2x4s can be used.

For my situation I’ll cut 16 foot 2x4s to fit the outside border of the first layer of OSB.

Truck Full of Rigid Foam and 2x4s

Cutting 2×4 Border with a Japanese Handsaw

Gluing 2×4 Border Before Screwing It In Place

Screwing 2×4 Border for Rigid Foam in Place

2×4 Border Ready for Rigid Foam

Installing the Rigid Foam and Top Layer of Roof Sheathing

My original plan was to install the layer of rigid foam first and then do the sheathing on top.   Only thing is it was windy that day.   The glue I was using didn’t set fast enough to hold the rigid foam panels in place, so I ended up installing the foam and OSB sheathing at the same time.

If you’re installing multiple layers of rigid foam, try not to overlap the seams.

Lay down a full sheet of rigid foam.   Optionally use some adhesive designed to use with rigid foam.

Putting Rigid Foam Adhesive on Roof Deck

Putting Rigid Foam In Place

Cut the next piece so you have a full row of rigid insulation in place.

Measuring to Cut Rigid Foam

You might have noticed there is aluminum foil faced up on the rigid foam, and ask if you should install the rigid foam with foil up or down.

It doesn’t matter.   In order to receive the benefits of the reflective foil, you need to have an air gap (usually ¾” ) between the foil layer and the one above it.

Cutting Rigid Foam with Japanese Ryoba Handsaw

Now that we have a full row of insulation, it’s time to use the diagram and pre-cut top OSB sheets.   If you’re using adhesive for your panels, put it on the bottom of OSB sheet.

Putting Adhesive on Bottom of Top OSB Layer

Put down an entire row of OSB and shifted it around to make sure everything is lined up.   Then nail every 6 inches on the outside edge that’s on top of the 2x4s.

Nailing the Outside Edge of the Top Layer of OSB

If you can easily figure out where the rafters are for any inside seams then use 3 ½’ exterior rated screws there.

Screwing OSB Seams with 3 1/2 inch Screws

Installing Last Panel on Roof

Now that all the sheets are in place and the edges are either nailed or screwed in, we need to screw the centers of the top OSB sheets.   You’re going to snap a chalk line where the rafters run.

Snapping a Chalk Line to Install Screws in the Center of Sheets

I found that I had to use a countersink bit when installing the screws.

Countersinking Before Driving Screws in Top OSB Layer

Driving Screw into Center Sections of the Panel

Sealing the Seams and Screw Holes

Now that everything is assembled we want to seal it up.   The ultimate way to do this is to put a layer of adhesive backed ice and water shield roll roofing underlayment.   I wasn’t able to find this so the next best thing was to make sure all the seams are sealed up.

With that in mind use some 6 inch peel and stick flashing membrane on all of the seams.

Installing the Long Strips of Membrane First

Give yourself a couple inches of overlap on the edge.

Flashing Overlapped Over the Edge

After you do the long strips move on to the short ones.

Rolling the Flashing Membrane with a Roller

I was using the small roller, that probably wasn’t designed to do this, I had.   It definitely took longer than if I had one of these babies 😊

Powertec J-Roller

Use some 9 inch peel and stick flashing membrane along the edge.

Installing Flashing Along the Edge of the Roof Deck

At first, I thought I would use one continuous piece all along the border.   I soon figured out that wasn’t happening.   It was too cumbersome going around the corners.

Instead I

• Cut the length about 6 inches past the corner edge
• Sliced the seam line from the corner
• Folded the two pieces over like you would a present

Cutting the Corner of the 9 Inch Flashing

Last thing we need to do is seal up the screw holes using some roof and flashing sealant.   It may seem a little overboard, but hey… we just spent the time to seal the seams.   Plus, it’s way cheaper and faster to use caulk for this.

Sealing Screw Holes with Roof and Flashing Sealant

At this point there are a couple small details that need to be taken care of.

• Painting and installing the fascia before shingling the roof
• Putting OSB on the upper wall area

Insulated Roof Panels Budget Totals

This was the most expensive part of the project so far.   If you wanted to cut some costs, you could not use the foam adhesive and save yourself $50.

Additional Reading

Unvented Roofs

• Building Science Corp – Unvented Roof Systems – https://buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0108-unvented-roof-systems/view
• Unvented Roof Assemblies for All Climates – https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates
• Field Testing of an Unvented Roof with Fibrous Insulation,… – https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy16osti/64999.pdf
• Insulating Unvented Roof Assemblies – https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2015/11/11/insulating-unvented-roof-assemblies
• Residential Provisions of the 2018 IECC – https://www.energycodes.gov/sites/default/files/becu/2018_IECC_residential.pdf
• https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/iecc2018/chapter-4-re-residential-energy-efficiency?site_type=public
• 5 Unvented attic and unvented enclosed rafter assemblies. – https://www.demilec.com/documents/Tech-Library/2015-IRC-R806.5.pdf