Adventures in Dressmaking

How to Wear DIY: A red skirt and a winter nautical look

2012-01-27T05:10:00.000-08:00

Every January I ooh and aaah over the nautical looks that pop up at stores after the fall colors. It's so nice to see fresh, bright, contrasty looks like navy, red, white... and some fun icons like the occasional anchor. And some luggage tan shoes and accessories, and maybe a fisherman's sweater. The look is so classy and classic, very J.Crew or Land's End Canvas, although I saw some great stuff in this flavor last time I was at Old Navy, too. Oohhh, I love it!!

(If you follow me on Pinterest you know I love my stripes...)

Source: keikolynn.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: thistimeisacharm.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: atlantic-pacific.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: frecklesinapril.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

So now that it's not freeeeeezing all the time anymore, I was excited to pull out this skirt that I made a while back, and add some stripes and other pieces! Click to see it after the jump!
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Clothing sizes are weird. But so are the fits on patterns!

2012-01-26T05:43:00.000-08:00

Clothing sizes are weird--I know that's like the understatement of the decade. But let's talk about clothing (and pattern) sizes.

I've complained before how commercial pattern sizes are not only different than what we expect from storebought clothing, they are also meant to fit terribly. IMHO. I've even done a Sewing Circle on how to pick the right pattern size. But I read an article on Hello Giggles the other day about clothing sizes for store bought clothing, with a lot of good points and sources on the background. There was a recent NPR story about how stores have their own special sizing (we knew that, if we've ever compared Gap to Target to J.Crew or Forever 21 or anything...), and about the history of standardized sizing.

I knew this from what my professional dressmaker-mother has told me, but sizes were standardized (6, 8, 10, and so on) during WWII. Measurements were taken on young women, who were paid a small fee... many of these were poor 18-year-olds, so of course they were smaller than we are today. Here's more of the story:

"During 1939 and 1940, about 15,000 American women participated in a national survey conducted by the National Bureau of Home Economics of the U.S. Department of Agriculture…A technician took 59 measurements of each volunteer, who was dressed only in underwear.Volunteers were paid a small fee for participating…The purpose of the survey was to discover key measurements of the female body…and then to propose a sizing system based on this discovery."

Stores can change their sizes all they want, so we've gotten used to our 2012, well-fed American sizes. But, what does this mean for us, me and you readers of this blog?? Many of you sew your own clothes. I've been dealing with picking the right pattern size for some years, and I've got a system down for my fave patterns--but the stakes are high when you're cutting into fabric and putting your time into something, and you really want your project to turn out.

Sewing your own clothes and picking the right size = kinda a bigger deal than trying on clothes at a store and picking a size. Click to read after the jump--how I've worked out my system for doing this!
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A three-hour dress. I like to get creative.

2012-01-25T05:39:00.000-08:00

A three-hour dress could be a bad thing, I realize. But this one I'm really happy with!

I bought this simple rayon print at JoAnn on clearance, I think $1.50 a yard cuz it was half off the clearance price of $3 or $5/yard. I love the black/warm brown/navy/pink/red color combo! I wanted something relatively loose, a dress, not a top, but I was originally thinking a dolman sleeve or open sleeve. But I didn't have any patterns that were quite close enough, so I used this old standby.

Simplicity 2497--I've used it a million times but I never make it like the pictures on the cover show. This time, I didn't do the waistband and instead zigzagged some elastic to the seam allowance pressed up, and I made it shorter. I used the sleeves from view A and the rest was more like view C, although shorter. Since I had elastic instead of a waistband, I didn't need a zipper in the back so it just pulls over the head!

Click for the rest of the story after the jump!

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Sewing Circle: A lovely loose tunic

2012-01-24T05:39:00.000-08:00

Sewing Circle again! This time, Abby wrote me about finding a pattern for a top her sister would like. Inspired by this pin...

Source: shopbop.com via Sarah on Pinterest

She said:

Q: I've been thinking about making something fun for my sister. Her style is totally different from mine, and she loves loose-fitting, flowing tops as opposed to my close-fitting ones. That's actually good, because I'd like this little gift to be a surprise, and I can hardly surprise her if I'm taking measurements and having her try on muslins!

I found this beachy cover-up on her Pinterest board, and it's perfect for my ideas, but I can't seem to find a pattern for it. I love the open neck, the gathered drop skirt, and the pleating around the neckline. Also, I haven't worked with enough fabrics to be able to figure out what fabrics would work on a particular project, so I'd really appreciate a suggestion. Is this a cotton voile, or am I totally off? :)

Well, Abby...

A: That is sort of a tricky one to find a pattern for! I didn't find anything super duper close, but I found lots of sort of close ones. Keep in mind that it's easy to lengthen the top or the sleeves, or add the elastic band at the hips, so little details like that needn't deter you from some of them. And there are lots of patterns that have the same attitude/look that you might like straight from the package, so look at those, too, if you go to a fabric store--but take a look at these:

This New Look one--just make version B longer and add elastic. Cut the neck more V-like if you want.

Make the sleeves longer on version D, and add elastic.

I've made this as a dress before, but in a lighter-weight fabric it would work if you made the sleeves longer... (but be warned, the neckline is very low-cut! I'd say make it less so.)

Kinda funky BurdaStyle one. Add elastic, lengthen sleeves... (And I would recommend that you don’t put in the darts at all)

A Vogue one with huge sleeves. You don't have to give it the buttons--just don't cut down the center front.

It's constructed differently, but this Butterick is similar-looking. Make the sleeves simpler and tie the neck instead of button, maybe?

Whew! See, lots of options that could be tweaked, but none are perfect. As for fabrics, the original was probably a lightweight fine cotton like a voile, you'r right—unfortunately these are hard to find at JoAnn but they may have something seasonal for spring soon. you can also check the shirtings. I recommend you just find a soft, lightweight 100% cotton.

Readers, have you seen the perfect pattern? Do you have any tips for making such a lightweight, flowy top? Love to hear your ideas!

I've decided I need to learn to use Photoshop.

2012-01-23T05:29:00.000-08:00

I've decided I'm sort of pathetic. I'm a creative and visual and tech-saavy person, and yet... I don't do anything fancy to my blog post photos. I've been blogging for almost two and a half years, and my pictures have improved tremendously since I started but I still have a loooong way to go. Although I do have a relatively good camera--a Cannon Rebel--(I think I need a better lens, though, but have no idea what that means.)

But I really think I need to step things up with some photo editing. I currently use whatever came with my computer--Microsoft Picture Manager or something. It does a few things that I need, but... I really want my pictures to look cooler. Prettier. And in some cases, less yellow? I try and try and use manual settings on my camera but the colors so often look yellow when I take pictures in my house. I hate the light here. (It's okay, we're hopefully moving soon when we find a house to buy.)

(Both pics yellow even after editing. I did my best.) And sometimes they don't even turn out yellow, just... weird colors! I swear I'm trying!

Seriously, why does the surface of my white table look pink?!!?!?

And that's not even getting started on some of my How to Wear DIY pics outdoors... so dark! And so many greys and blacks in the colors! And it's not just cuz I'm wearing black and standing on the street. I mean the contrast, or base colors or something...

Annnnnnyway, I would LOVE to hear your thoughts and tips on photo editing!

My husband has Photoshop Elements on his computer with two monitors, so I'm pretty well set-up with the physical stuff but I'm not sure if Photoshop Elements is good enough? I don't plan on becoming totally pro, but will I be able to do everything I need to do with Elements, or do I need the real thing? I've also considered using Gimp, which is open-source and free but I understand very similar to Photoshop. Although I want to use widely circulated online tutorials for Photoshop, so the terminology might be confusing for a newb like me if it's not parallel. I'm also wondering--what's up with Photoshop Actions? Can I create my own if I find edits that I like, and want to do to several pictures?

I even started a Pinterest board with some tips and how-tos for Photoshop and photography. But just because I ran across them on my Pinterest home page... I would love some of you who know what you're talking about to recommend some sites I should check out!

Cuz I don't know what I'm talking about, I'm embarrassed to say. But I'm a DIY-er! I will learn to do stuff to my photos!

Anyone have any suggestions?

Sew What's New giveaway winner, very lucky reader...

2012-01-22T09:30:00.000-08:00

Hope you all had fun checking out Sew What's New--they do have an awesome selection of random cool fabrics! New and vintage, great prices.

So I'm excited to announce via Random.org that the winner of the giveway is...

#76, Ashley, who said: "Oh my, there is entirely too much good stuff to just choose one thing! The trims! The brocades! The buttons! The vintage feel of it all. Definitely adding Sew What's New to my favorite Etsy sites."

Congrats, Ashley! Sounds like you'll have a lot of fun using your gift card!

Ruffle skirt for a little one!

2012-01-20T05:57:00.000-08:00

Follow-up to my How to Wear DIY post last week--here's something I did with the leftover from the grey cross-over ruffle skirt I made myself! I used just a few inches of Ruffle Fabric for this simple little skirt for my cousin's daughter.

It's a suuuuper simple design, just gathered to the waistband and sewn together with a center back seam!

Wanna see how it looks on her? Yeah, me too, but...

(I don't have kids, so I'm not used to this... OMG, is it hard to get a 3-year-old to stand still for a photo! We snapped this one and she was DONE. So over it. On to the next present. So I didn't even bother trying to get a good pic of her in it, not wearing her new Scooby shirt, etc...)

She loooooooves Scooby. The old TV shows. It's pretty cute, she'll tell you about all the characters.

How to Wear DIY: Chunky homemade scarf made over

2012-01-19T05:37:00.000-08:00

How to Wear DIY today, although it's not that you need to see how I wear a scarf. We've most of us been wearing scarves for years. But this circle scarf thing is new for me, and I love how cute and trendy I can be while at the same time cozy and wearing something I made myself! Here I am in the scarf I made over last week.

See, the seam of the scarf ends isn't obvious at all! Even with my v-back sweater.

Sweater: Old Navy. Skirt: J.Crew. Belt: Charlotte Russe.

Boots: Fred Meyer. Earrings: ? Scarf: DIY! Made from one I knitted years ago

So thank you, scarf, for reminding me how much I love that J.Crew skirt.

Sewing Circle: A simple double-breasted jacket

2012-01-18T05:08:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Sewing Circle! This time, it's a question from Jennifer:

Q: Hi Suzannah, I have a sewing circle question:
I just fell in love with this jacket:

But I can't find a pattern that comes close - it looks so easy! Just three panels with darts in the front. But everything I find looks so complicated, there has to be a better option out there. Help me! Also, any tips for matching stripes?

Thanks!
Jenny

A: Hi Jenny, Thanks for reading, and thanks for your question!
Great question—that does look like a super simple pattern, why can’t we find something similar?!

You can make any pattern into a double-breasted one by adding width on one side, and adding curve to the neckline overlap piece to match the ModCloth one. AND make sure you re-center the buttons when you add a second row! The old center line of the coat, where the buttons were, is your new true center, so offset the two rows an equal distance from that.

I did find these similar patterns…

This New Look one. A little more shaped, and has princess seams you'd have to match stripes on...

Butterick B5712. Pretty simple, nice open neckline. Just add the extension for a double-breasted version! And give it longer sleeves.

I know, it looks SO 90's, but look at the construction--pretty similar! Butterick B5400. Can you believe they still sell this pattern? At least redraw the models, Butterick, jeez... The tapestry floral coat (ugh) at top left is closest--just add the double breast, and maybe don't round off the corners.

BurdaStyle (by Simplicity?) 7262. Also dated, but has similar structure. A few more seams to match stripes with...

Simplicity 6616, which has lots of combinations of the options on the package. Already has a double-breasted pattern included.

Kwik Sew 3258. Again, looks dated, but... without the pockets, you've got something similar! Although there's a center back seam to match the stripes on.

Does it look like any of those would work? None are the one-piece side dart bodice front, but… some are pretty simple.

And, of course, use a good sturdy fabric (I'd suggest a home dec twill or soft canvas) and don't forget to match the stripes! Have fun, this sounds like a super fun project...

Readers, what would you say? Have you seen the perfect pattern? Would you modify something like one of the ones above?

More little blogging tips

2012-01-17T05:10:00.000-08:00

Not long ago I posted about some things I've learned about sewing/home dec/crafty blogging. I really enjoyed hearing from some of you readers who are new bloggers or who read my blog and had ideas for me! I love how we can all help each other out!

So here are a few more little tips for ya. In addition to the first three I mentioned...

Suzannah's blogging tip #4: Search feature.

Please, oh, please, add a Search widget on your blog! On Blogger this is really easy--it's one of the widgets you can put anywhere you please. I have one on my right sidebar a few images down. It's really helpful if someone sees something on your blog but doesn't remember exactly when it was. Using keywords, people can find your posts. You want that, right!? Tags are helpful for this, too, but searching is way easier.

Suzannah's blogging tip #5: Make it easy for people to follow you.

There are so many great tools out there for following blogs (I just got a Bloglovin' account and love it! Here's my blog on it), so it's great to have lots of easy one-click ways for people to follow you. Blogger, Twitter, RSS, Bloglovin'... add buttons for people to connect with you!

Suzannah's blogging tip #6: Pinterest!

I looove Pinterest (duh. Who doesn't?). But, it's also a great way to introduce people to blogs! I've found a lot of fave blogs through it. So, take great pictures that people want to pin, for one, and you can create a board for your faves from your blog. A tutorials board, a board for special projects... when they're on Pinterest already, they're a lot easier for people to pass around and get linked back to you from! And, it's so much fun. You can also look at anything that's pinned from your blog, click on the link, and see all the pics people have pinned from your site!! And, you can get a Pin It! button for the bottom of your posts to make it even easier for people to pin your stuff.

Source: adventuresindressmaking.com via Tristie on Pinterest

Pretty lace and tee-into-tank makeover

2012-01-16T05:25:00.000-08:00

So, obvs, lace is totally in these days and is all over the place. But it's so hard to find lace at the fabric store that isn't super scratchy, and it's nice to have something more delicate for just a top.

I had this shirt from Charlotte Russe last winter (I think I paid $5 for it... weird sleeves. I wore it once) that was on the way to Goodwill, but I saved it because of the lovely lace!

Nice, eh? But even when I wore it it was kind of awkward to know what to wear under it. Black tank top? I guess, but what if it gets crooked... not the easiest to wear. But I knew I could turn it into its own tank top! You know the kind I'm talking about, right? Like this one from Banana Republic.

So I pulled out an old tee (I did't have any tanks I didn't want) from Forever 21 that was getting kind of old-looking, and combined the two.

I cut the lace top into a tank shape and overlayed it on the tee. I used a mannequin from my mom's studio, which was really helpful. I don't have a mannequin but for something like this it's almost a requirement!

I pinned and then zig-zagged the lace tank shape onto the tee.

Then I trimmed away the tee in the same shape, and used some FOE (fold-over elastic) to finish the edges. It's really good stuff for when you need a smooth, slightly shiny finish that doesn't look too clunky or homemade--and it's way easier than doing a narrow bias band or something! **see comments for where to buy!

I think it turned out really well! I'm looking forward to wearing it, not sure quite how yet... I'm thinking with a skirt! What do you think?

Okay, folks--last chance, the Facebook group is closing!

2012-01-15T06:33:00.000-08:00

Don't get me wrong, I'm very excited to have an actual Facebook PAGE that you can "Like" and get updates from and such, but I'm sad to leave the group behind! Some of you had added photos to it and such, and we had some good wall discussions on there!

But, to better things. Be sure to join the new Facebook page for Adventures in Dressmaking, cuz the group is no more. I'm closing it tonight. =(. I hope I can regain all the 547 members it had, and more, on the new page!

So please, check it out! Share pics, ask questions, get updates, have fun!

Sewing Circle: What can you make yourself?

2012-01-13T05:41:00.000-08:00

Sewing Circle again!

This time's a little more open... let's talk about where you draw the line between "I can make that!" and "Uh, no, totally worth the however-much-$ to pay for the storebought."

I got a great question from Lauren of Ren Was Here, wondering if there were ways to DIY some fave shirts from American Eagle. Read on...

Q: I love your segments on finding patterns to make something you saw in retail. I hate shelling out bucks to wear clothes that just don't fit great. Here are a couple of the shirts I like--are there any good patterns I could use to make my own? Also, I'm a very novice sewer! Thanks a heap!

A: Hi Lauren,
Thanks for your email, and thanks for reading! Wow, I haven’t checked out AE in quite a while… cute stuff! Those are both adorable. And good examples of what can and can’t be replicated at home:

The lace tank top could easily be done yourself, although you won’t find such nice cotton lace at JoAnn or most craft stores. You’d have to use polyester lace. Although, one easy project you could do would be buying a plain tank top (not a ribbed one) at Old Navy or somewhere super cheap, then cutting out lace of the exact same size as the front… although you also could buy some lightweight cotton and matching color lace, and make the whole thing at home with a simple top pattern or by tracing a tank top you have and like (but add plenty of seam allowance around all sides). McCall’s may have one, or use something like this from BurdaStyle:

The denim shirt. Nope, can’t make that at home. I mean, you could, but it’d be a relatively complicated pattern, and I think a big reason those are cute is the faded soft wash, which they do in big sandblaster machines or something. I love my denim shirt—got lucky and got it brand new donated by Target at Goodwill for $5. But I wear it all the time, so if you really want it I’d say treat yourself to the AE one!

And readers, what would you say? How do you draw the line, when you want something new?

I love seeing trendy pieces at the stores and making versions at home (remember all my J.Crew-ey ruffled tees from a couple years ago?). It's so FUN to make it yourself, and of course if you're on a tight budget like many of us are, it's much easier to pay a fraction of the cost for the materials.

And, as you sew more, your skills improve--but there are still some things I'd never want to make myself at home, because they'd be hard and wouldn't turn out the same.

My "storebought, please!" list includes:

Bras. I know I could make one, but it'd be more trouble than it's worth for me!
Jeans. I could make them, but all the wash and stitching and fit... I'll leave it to the pros.
Socks. Even when I could knit, I wasn't patient enough to use fine enough yarn to make anything that would fit in normal shoes or slippers.
This one goes either way--outerwear. Unless I have some great wool, or really want to try a pattern, I buy my coats. I'm pretty sure they can do better with the warm linings and make cozier coats than I can!

But, you all know, I LOVE to make stuff at home! I get inspired when I walk around the mall, and often don't buy anything (or just buy basics)--I love coming home and making something that, in some cases, is better for me or better quality than the store version. Tees, tanks, dresses, even sweater embellishments...

How do you decide what to DIY?

Double-time! How to Wear DIY: Ruffled skirt and custom cardi

2012-01-12T05:06:00.000-08:00

Here's a How to Wear DIY outfit with two pieces I made myself/did DIY treatments to...

First, the easy one. I don't think I did a post for it, but the sweater I'm wearing is a nice one from LOFT that I got at Goodwill despite the fact it was at least 1.5 sizes too big. I took it in using the tips I explain in this tutorial.

Next, the fun one! The skirt--crossover drape, pre-ruffled fabric so super easy... I made it and explained it in this tutorial using Ruffle Fabric! Only takes a little over a yard. Seriously check out that post for inspiration on ruffly goodness and how fun and easy it was to use the Ruffle Fabric!

When I made the skirt I was imagining it in a cute look for a party or dinner-type occasion. But, it's winter still, so... here's a take on it that's a little bit more practical for the season here in Oregon.

With the natural waist of the skirt, it'd be a shame to hide it with a layer over, so I tucked the sweater in! It's fun to show off the waist with a waist belt, but keep it warm enough with the long sleeves.

I love the back of the skirt, too. Those ruffles are so fun!

Earrings and tank: Forever 21. Necklaces and belt: Nordstrom Rack. Shoes: JC Penney.

Skirt: DIY, with Ruffle Fabric! Sweater: DIY, taken in from a LOFT one!

Before winter's over! A JCrew-ey glitter clutch

2012-01-11T05:03:00.000-08:00

Okay, so, kind of long story here... I had been meaning to do this project since I saw J.Crew's holiday catalog 2009. Yeah, 2009. I think it was this one:

They also had wallets, not sure when... and of course now they have glitter belts, iPhone cases, the works!

Anyway, I had a glitter/ModPodge phase (remember my DIY Christian Louboutin glitter heels? Awesome project...), and in, uh... February or March of 2010, I finally got around to glitter-ing this wallet I had. White leather wallet, got it at Goodwill Outlet.

Added a blend of ModPodge mixed with glitter and painted it on with a foam brush thing. So pretty!

I did both sides of the outside.

Anyway, I didn't post it because I figured it was too late in the season by the time I actually finished it. But now, glitter is EVERYWHERE, and hey, never too late for glitter, right?!

Although I probably should have posted this before New Year's Eve. Oops.

Point being, if you want something glitter-ey, DIY it! I highly recommend mixing ModPodge with glitter from JoAnn and spreading it on. The glitter doesn't fall off at all, and it's still plenty shiny and almost smooth to the touch. And this thing has lasted two years, and it's still looking okay!

Have you been into glitter this winter? Do any fun sparkly projects? ;)

Another infinity scarf makeover tutorial

2012-01-10T05:53:00.000-08:00

You remember this tutorial using a scarf I made from an old scarf that I never wore. I love how it turned out!

Same idea here--I made this chunky scarf during my knitting phase, sophomore year of college, probably? It was cute and all, but I associate it with the cropped corduroy blazers, crewneck wooly sweaters, and flared Hollister jeans I wore it with, and it was really long, and the fringe was so bulky and not elegant...

So I remade it. So glad those circle scarves are in right now, cuz this one was a perfect candidate for a remake! Wanna see how I did it? I doubt you need the step-by-step, but here are the pics anyway! ;)

Remove all the fringe pieces. You should have some pretty prominent gaps where they were looped through.

Using a large needle, connect the end of the scarf if you have one and a piece of fringe--or, just a couple pieces of fringe tied together. Or, of course, if you have more yarn, use that.

Going from loop to loop, sew the ends together!

At the edge, tie off with the other end of yarn, if you have one--if not, loop around and create a knot with the yarn piece itself.

Ta-da! Wear in loops as you choose!

Here's some chunky cowl-shaped scarf inspiration for you...

Source: the-streetstyle.tumblr.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: o-my-heart.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: theclothes.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Source: ticktockvintage.blogspot.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

New sponsor: All kinds of fabrics and goodies at great prices!

2012-01-09T05:42:00.000-08:00

Sorry, this giveaway is now closed. Check back soon for more!

Let's welcome a new sponsor! All kinds of fabrics, trims, and notions at Sew What's New Fabrics. Here's a little bit about them...

We are a long running family business started by Bebe the Patron Saint of Fabric Junkies. She loved fabric and loved to collect the finest fabrics made. Basically the store is her fabric stash, the biggest stash anyone has ever seen. We are located in an old bowling alley! We have fabrics from when she started to collect in the 40's all the way up to the 90's.

Our favorite fabrics are the fabrics on the dark side, the funky or weird fabrics, and those are the ones we sell the most. We have fabrics that retail for $29.99 other places that we sell for under $10, gorgeous upholstery fabrics that are $125 retail we have for $14. We have out of print Waverly, P. Kaufman, Ralph Lauren, Kravet and so much more. We carry upholstery and dressmaking fabrics (with a huge supply of rayon fabrics because I am little obsessed with them.) We are also starting to get into newer fabrics like felt just to keep it fresh.

I always tell online customers that what we have online is nowhere near what we have in store so please ask us...and don't get us started on the buttons. Bebe bought a button store in the late 1960's and we are still trying to organize! I'm Lily and Manny does the heavy lifting. Well we both do heavy lifting but he looks better doing it. :)

What a fun story! And can you imagine wandering around that bowling alley shopping for fabrics... so many choices! (If you live nearby, you could even stop by their Nyack, NY store!).

Here are some lovely fave fabrics from their Etsy shop... (click on each one for the listing)

OMG, drool... need these sequins!

And here are some of my fave blog vintage-ey items...

Can you imagine what great selection they have!?

Lucky, lucky you, readers--Sew What's New has generously offered a $50 gift card to one of my readers! To win, leave a comment on this post telling me what your fave item at Sew What's New is!

For extra entries, tell me about how you:

"Like" Sew What's New on Facebook
Follow them on Twitter
"Like" Adventures in Dressmaking on Facebook
Follow me on Twitter

You must be a follower of this blog (with whatever follow tool you please) to win. And I MUST have your email or some way to contact you if you win!!!!!!

Giveaway ends Saturday, January 22 and I'll announce the winner Sunday. Good luck!

And, for some instant gratification, get shopping on Sew What's New's Etsy shop before I beat you to it on some of those great fabrics!

Sewing Circle: A pattern for a 40's retro dress

2012-01-07T06:14:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Sewing Circle! This time, I'm sharing a question I got from Sarah, who emailed me with this dilemma...

Q: My name is Sarah and I am a graduate student who is slowly becoming a fairly competent sewing who is entranced by all thing vintage/retro. I have been following your blog for some time (great inspirations!) so I thought you might be the person to which I could bring this sort of question.

I am trying to figure out how to recreate this dress that Haley Atwell's character wore in the recent film Captain America (unfortunately the pictures I can gather from the Internet don't due justice to how stunning it appears on screen). I have looked around for some patterns (vintage and modern) which have the same general features, ie. v-neck, belted, fitted pencil (kind of wiggle-like) skirt and long sleeves (with perhaps a little puff, I can't quite tell), but I just can't seem to find any that capture the same spirit. Any ideas? Have you run across anything that seems similar or know where I could go to do some further investigating? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for your help and for all the great inspiration!

A: Hi Sarah,
Great question, and beautiful dress! I can’t find any patterns for something exactly like it, but there are definitely some vintage-inspired Vogue patterns that would give you the look.

When I look to copy something with a modern pattern, I look for the way the dress is constructed—that one has a v-neck darted bodice, pencil skirt, and puffed ¾ sleeves (you’ve got it in your descriotion!). And a collar overlay that I can’t quite figure out. So, with those items in mind, you can combine patterns to copy it as closely as possible, or you can just use a very similar pattern and it’ll be cute although not an exact replica.

Here are some ideas:

BY FAR the closest. Gather instead of dart the sleeves, and you can reshape the neckline to a true V. You might want to leave off the waistband and instead just make the bodice a little longer, like the original, or just cover it with a belt like she has.

Cool V detail, otherwise not the same:

V collar, otherwise very different construction:

Princess seams instead of darts, but again, just change the neck shape…

Cool neck detail:

Another cool neck treatment:

Hope one of those strikes your fancy, Sarah! Hope I’ve been somewhat helpful. Good luck recreating that beautiful dress!

Readers, what would you do?

How to find Adventures in Dressmaking in 2012

2012-01-07T05:23:00.000-08:00

So you may have seen I have a new blog pic... wahoo!

I was really hoping to get a new pic to use for the blog as well as my Twitter, Pinterest, etc. (I'm so happy with the pics Becky from Studio 623 Photography did! If you're in Portland and need photos, I highly recommend her!). Now that I have the new pic and the new blog design done by Nadine of Fox and Toad Design, I can be proud to tell you where to find and connect with Adventures in Dressmaking!

Connect

I share and invite you to share projects and ideas on the Adventures in Dressmaking Facebook page. Tons of you have Facebook, right? "Like" me! **BIG ANNOUNCEMENT: I'm closing the Adventures in Dressmaking Facebook Group and just started the page. Please make the switch if you followed before, I don't want to lose you!
I tweet about my blog posts and creative pursuits, as well as fun day-to-day stuff--follow me on Twitter!
I save inspiration pics to my pinboards on Pinterest. Looooove it.

Follow

Subscribe by email--most direct way to hear whenever I post. Enter your email address in the box on the left sidebar of this blog, under the Google profile pictures of followers...
RSS Feed? Right under that, use whichever tool you like. Left sidebar.
I recently started using Bloglovin' for myself and it's got to be one of the best ways to follow blogs. Adventures in Dressmaking is here if you want to add it to blogs you follow! I totally recommend Bloglovin'!
If you use Networked Blogs, here I am!
And, of course, you can follow me through Blogger! There should be buttons above and to the left of the blog, too...
There are probably a bunch of other ways to follow my posts... let me know if my blog doesn't work with your preferred method!

I used to think it was silly to have SO many ways to connect with fave blogs, but now I really appreciate it, and really see the value of the different kinds of networking and following sites. It's great to have different ways to stay in touch and see what's new!

So like I said, let me know if you need another method of following my blog, if something about it in particular doesn't work for you.

Tomorrow we'll be back to fun posts, I swear...

New page! Links and fave blogs

2012-01-06T06:06:00.000-08:00

Excited to announce I finally have a page of fave blogs and links I recommend! Took me long enough, eh? I got tired of the outdated blogroll I had on my right sidebar--too cluttered and a bunch of blogs from two years ago, not the ones I currently read. Now, I'm proud to present a current list I recommend you check out, categorized and everything!

You'll be able to find this list anytime on my linkbar, just below my header and above the post--and my linkbar could use some work, too. Do note that there's a link to my Etsy shop up there--also remnants of the beginning of my blogging life, I'll be closing my Etsy store after this month when my last listing expire. Until then, I would love if you'd check it out--three sets of 5-6 vintage patterns for $10 each! Super cute stuff.

Sorry for the personal plug, but I thought you'd like to know before ya miss out on those cool vintage pattern sets! Etsy! Me! Last chance this month! ;)

Anyways, the main point is, I now have a fave links page like I should have for ages. Yay!

How to Wear DIY: Summer-to-winter skirt

2012-01-05T06:09:00.000-08:00

Remember this skirt I upcycled late last summer? It was a thick t-shirt from I'm guessing the 90's.

Now it's a super comfy knit skirt, with elastic waist. I loved it this summer, but hadn't put it away with the summer clothes--good thing, cuz it made for a cute and winter-comfy outfit when I added substantial tights and several layers on top!

Tee and vest: Old Navy. Necklace: Forever 21. Jacket: Nordstrom Rack.

Boots: Steve Madden via Overstock.com. Skirt: DIY!

The tights make it cozy--so does the vest. Oh, and boots, the greatest invention winter has ever seen. I rotate my black, brown, and greige riding boots all fall and winter, with cozy socks and jeans or tights. Otherwise I would like die.

Oh, and the shirt-to-skirt tutorial? See it here if you want to try something similar sometime!

**Addition: So excited to be linking this post to Everybody, Everywear! My first time! I just saw the call for black and white outfits this month, and had just done this post, so... perfect! Check out all the black/white outfit inspirations...

My thoughts on the raw vegan diet... if you were wondering

2012-01-04T05:57:00.000-08:00

I don't talk about food much on here, although I see food and sewing and home dec and clothing trends and crafty projects as all sort of going together--but maybe that's because they're all interests of mine! But I have a very different diet than most people, and I don't want to weird anyone out.

I've mentioned a few times in other posts that I have a limited diet (like when I shared my exciting VitaMix purchase!). Sometimes I receive emails from people asking me what I mean about the "limited" part, because they're gluten-intolerant or vegan or dieting or whatever else. I don't know if I can be much help to those people, but I did figure I'd might as well tell you what my "weird diet" is. You won't judge me too much, right?

**Warning: looooooong post coming up.

I currently eat an approximately 90% raw vegan diet. Raw vegans don't eat any meat, dairy, eggs, or other animal products, nor do they eat any cooked vegetables, fruits, grains, legumes, nuts, or anything else that's been heated to about 105-115 degrees Fahrenheit Sounds pretty limited, right?

Source: mynewroots.blogspot.com via Mattie on Pinterest

A brief history

I've been vegetarian since I was 14 or so (except I always ate fish). It worked pretty much fine for me, I thought; I always ate my veggies and fruits and had a balanced diet. I had killer IBS, though, and took Tums all the time and went to a gastroenterologist who said nothing was physically wrong with me. I tried cutting out dairy for a week once in high school to see if it was a lactose intolerance but couldn't keep away from the ice cream and parmesan. I got tested for celiac disease and didn't have that, either.

I also put on a few pounds in grad school and was a little grumpy about it. I slowed down on eating cheese since I knew the ratio of nutritional value to fat was pretty bad, and why would I want to eat something that was bad for me? Oh, and I always used soy milk on my cereal and never drank actual milk, but ate plenty of fro yo and low fat ice cream and always thought vegans must be weird.

Source: choosingraw.com via Whitney on Pinterest

My introduction to raw veganism

But in January of 2010 my then-fiance and I met a new couple who were sometimes raw vegan. Again, the "that sounds weird..." alarm went off in my brain, but I listened, and borrowed some books about the diet. Sounded like it had all kinds of benefits, some more believable than others. Losing weight on it? Sure, I could believe that, but people also said it took away their migraines, menstrual cramps, fibromyalgia, diabetes, acne, fatigue, etc etc etc! Sounded great. I would love to need less sleep and feel great.

Pretty much immediately I tried the diet--it sounded fun! The recipes sounded delicious. I have a huge sweet tooth so all the delicious desserts made with raw nuts, dates, agave, cocoa power, fresh fruit, and all kinds of good stuff sounded amazing! I went to the store and bought raw ingredients, and didn't buy the normal stuff.

Source: mynewroots.blogspot.com via Katie on Pinterest

In the beginning...

That first week I ate fresh fruit smoothies for breakfast instead of cereal, had a huge salad for lunch instead of stir fry and rice or pasta with veggies or burrito or whatever else I would have had, and made exciting new recipes for dinner. Faves were cabbage wraps, collard green wraps, kale salad, anything with avocados, dried fruit for snacks... I also borrowed my parents' dehydrator and made dehydrated nut crackers that were WAY more delicious than anything Nabisco ever made.

I lost about 20 pounds over the next few months without changing my physical activity at all. And my IBS symptoms all went away immediately. Not since I was a kid have I had such a good... uhhh... digestive situation, if you know what I mean! I used to be constipated for up to 5 days. The raw vegan diet totally fixed that. And I was eating all the fresh fruits and veggies and nuts and homemade brownies and fruit cobblers and mousses and chocolate shake smoothies I wanted!

All this was happening at a time in my life when not much else was going on. I was newly engaged and we were living in a small apartment, and I didn't have a great job like I'd hoped I would when I finished grad school 6 months before. I was working part time and had recently started this blog, and was spending a lot of time watching 30 Rock while sewing. Learning new ways to make food was fun and exciting! And when summer came I went crazy picking berries and peaches, and ate LOTS of them.

Source: robynmiddleton.com via miss on Pinterest

Two years later...

It's been almost two years now, wow! Things have changed a little and I'm not as hard core about the raw vegan-ness of my diet, but I've worked out a system that works for me. I eat a lot of fresh veggies (I've toned it down on the fruit... all that sugar, even though it's natural, not super healthy), snack on nuts, eat the occasional egg, and make amazing salad dressings and raw vegan dips. I'm not vegan for moral reasons, but for health reasons, so I've been known to have a bite of something made with a little cooked or dried milk fat. I've found the things that make me feel bad, and the things that work okay but probably aren't that healthy for me.

What's most important to me now is that I don't eat any grains or dairy. Any--I can't do rice or gluten-free flour products or anything. I also don't want any refined (white) sugar, or any potatoes or corn (so starchy). Oh, or any meat, of course! I make exceptions sometimes for really good dark chocolate, and this one brand of corn chips made in Portland that are SOOOOO good. And I sometimes eat hummus, which is cooked.

Some raw vegans drink wine or distill their own alcohol, but I've never been a big drinker so now I just don't drink at all. I also don't do any caffeine, just cuz... I dunno, it's just easier that way. I love interesting herbal teas!

Source: healthyblenderrecipes.com via Laura on Pinterest

Eating out and the social aspects

It's hard to go out to eat, so I don't much (I can eat a few things at sushi track places, I can eat papaya salad at Thai places, and some places have tempting green salads), but I don't like restaurants much, anyway. And we loooove Thai food so when we have date nights we usually do that. I can get a green salad anywhere, hold the chicken, hold the croutons, hold the cheese, hold the whatever else, and only oil and vinegar for dressing on the side, but then it's just a $10 plate of lettuce and dried cranberries, and that hardly seems worth it.

I know everyone is different, so you may think I'm crazy, but honestly, it's not that hard for me to eat this way. I'm really happy with it!

My husband is not raw vegan (he tried it and lasted two weeks--he lost weight but then went to his grandparents' house and ate comfort food and gave up), but he likes everything I make and makes food for/with me. He doesn't eat red meat or much dairy, and only eats chicken or turkey once a week or so. And he's been into the weight loss diet from the 4-Hour Body, wherein you don't eat any grains or dairy or sugar including fruit, so he's limited, too right now.

Source: rawmazing.com via Chip on Pinterest

If you want to know more...

I don't recommend raw veganism to anyone because food is such a personal thing, and people won't change unless they really want to. All I can say is, if you have some weird problem that nothing else has helped, try it out and see what happens. Why not, right?

If you want to see some yummy pics and recipes about raw vegan food, here are my fave links:

Ani Phyo--she's amazing! Just came out with a raw Asian cookbook, yummm...
Alissa Cohen has some good beginner tips and a collection of great success stories
Alicia Silverstone, the actress of course, is one of the many raw vegan celebs and has a blog with a bunch of vegan inspiration
Rawmazing--beeeeeeutiful recipes and pics
Another talented sewing/crafty/(food!) blogger, Immer Wachsen, has gorgeous raw recipes and pics on her blog... check it out, you'll love her style!
Super stylish blogger Angela Hardison eats a lot of raw food and takes pics of her plates/meals. More pretties to look at!

It's been a while since I did a bunch of research on raw vegan tips and getting-started ideas, so I don't have a strong list for you there... but I'm sure you can Google it if you want to know more!

**Sorry for the loooooooong text-ey post! And, hope you don't think I'm too weird now! ;)

Any of you out there tried being raw vegan? Have any fave recipes to share or inspiring stories? =)

New year, new pics... and a dress you haven't seen!

2012-01-03T05:06:00.000-08:00

Did you notice the change to my left sidebar? I've got a new profile pic!

My lovely and talented wedding photographer-turned-friend Becky of Studio 623 Photography took these for me. It was hard to decide between them for what to use for the blog, my Twitter, Pinterest, etc.

Which reminds me, I've got to share the story of the dress with you!

Inspired by some of the romantic/retro-ey lacy things I've seen around stores recently, I went to JoAnn looking for something pretty to make a dress out of, hopefully to wear for the new blog pics. I was totally discouraged by the scratchy laces and too thin or too thick weights they had, until I realized what I needed was a stretch lace.

You've gotta love lace-covered dresses in cute colors...

ModCloth

Lace Affair

Fossil

I didn't find any of the perfect stretch lace at JoAnn, but they did have this super cute stretch net with polka dots woven in! Even better!

I used an old fave pattern for the bodice, Simplicity 2444, and scooped out the neckline. I also made the bodice about 2" shorter than the pattern called for, to make it a little more contemporary and funky.

The skirt is just gathered. What really makes the dress, I think, is the lining--it's a mostly cotton interlock from JoAnn, but it was more expensive than the fashion fabric! Like $12.99 a yard! I had a coupon, of course, so it was okay, but that's more than I usually spend on any fabric, much less lining. But it was so perfect.

I wanted to make it a pullover style, but when I tried that it was a little too loose. So I added a zipper in the center back, which was good because then when I added the brown velvet ribbon belt it was easy to just hand-stitch it in, not worrying about it not stretching over my head.

I love the little brown velvet bow at the waist! And the crocheted lace around the neck and sleeves. The velvet kind of makes it seasonal for winter, right? Haha. I look forward to wearing it to a party this winter or spring! Any recommendations for accessorizing?

2011 was a good year! Some faves...

2012-01-02T06:17:00.000-08:00

Hope you had a great New Year's celebration!!

As is customary this time of year, I'm thinking back on the past. I've had some fave projects this year, for sure!! Let's look through 2011 for my favorite creations of the past 12 months...

Loving my crazy red jeans upcycle. Wore them this holiday season!

Re-did and wore a scarf I made ages ago, into a contemporary cowl...

Seriously loving the fur-trimmed vest (tutorial!) I made from a men's sweater vest, and wore with my fave shirt...

Wore this work dress from last year in a fun new way...

Oh, and I got married! Yay! I made my dress, veil, shoe poufs, and all five bridesmaid dresses, and our flower girl's dress. And plenty of DIYs for the reception decor!

I used some Ruffle Fabric to make a seriously showy and festive dress for my bachelorette party (so much fun!)...

A few weeks earlier, I made a J.Crew-inspired party dress I got to wear as a bridesmaid in my friend's wedding (my first time as a bridesmaid, and wedding planner!). Felt pretty cute!

I did an upcycle I'm really proud of, a crazy 90's jumper into a pretty print dress...

And another recycled project, a chunky 90's tee into a great striped skirt...

In June, I made a half-lace dress inspired by an Anthro one for a lovely bridal shower my sweet friends held for me. Such a fun day! And I love the dress.

Last spring, I played around with silk scraps and made some Anthro-inspired pillows, and did tutorials for all of them...

And last winter, we moved into a new place in a cool neighborhood in Portland and I tried out a new color scheme (well, uh, because the apartment came with it). 'Course, since then, we've painted our room...

Here's to starting off 2012 on a good note!! My goals for the year include more blogging and sewing, of course, and hopefully spending more time reaching out to other bloggers and online tools. It's so awesome how many talented people there are out there!

What are your faves from 2011? Or ambitious sewing and crafty goals for 2012?

Happy (almost) New Year!!

2011-12-31T08:55:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

I learned a new term this year--evidently "NYE" is short for New Year's Eve? I thought people were talking about some fancy club or event in New York when I kept seeing it on Twitter.

Anyway, I hope you all have exciting plans for New Year's Eve. I'm happy to be hanging out with family including a sister-in-law who's home from school for the holiday, and we're going to a party and then probably just catching up after! Nothing too crazy. I get tired early. ;)

But the beginning of a new year does make you think. This is a good time for reflecting back, and making changes and goals for the future. And, thinking back on my year, I remember how grateful I am to have all of you out there, readers. I wanted to take this time to say thank you all so much for reading my blog. (!!!!) It truly means so much to me that you want to read the stories and posts I publish, and I am so happy to hear your comments and read your emails every day.

Source: lavenderandlilies.blogspot.com via Sparkle on Pinterest

A lot happened in my life in 2011, but I'll spare you the details. The high points: got a "real" job, moved, got married, honeymooned, and started house-hunting!

As for the stuff you care about? Some blog changes and improvements, for sure. I started tweeting more, had the blog slightly redesigned, and started my How to Wear DIY series that I'm so excited about. I love sharing how I incorporate homemade pieces into my everyday wardrobe and style. And I really I hope you all enjoy reading about how my DIY attitude influences my outfits.

My goals for 2012 include keeping up the blog and getting better at it! A year from now, I want to have an even better blog, and I hope you stick around and spread the word so that I'm able to get there!

What are your New Year's resolutions or goals for 2012? Maybe you want to sew for yourself more often, or make more home-cooked meals, or clean out your closet!, or whatever it is... I'd love to hear it!