tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3408519389567697982026-08-01T17:13:13.188-07:00African Cichlids FishSome Cichlids are mouth brooders and some are egg layers and they can be rather cranky, aggressive however they are the most popular fresh water home hobby fish of all time;further they are worth the effort; with many beautiful species occurring naturally in Asia, Africa, North, Central and South America when you start try to replicate their natural environment; did you know cichlids can be trained to eat out of your hand cichlids are very intelligent.JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.comBlogger62125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-43827095728418557872014-02-06T15:24:00.000-08:002014-02-06T15:51:54.180-08:00South American Cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: small;"> <b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Basic
Information</span></b></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kingdom: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Animalia</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phylum:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Chordata</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Class:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Actinopterygii</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Order:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Perciformes</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Family:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Pomacanthidae</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Common Name: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Scientific Name:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Pomacanthidae</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Origin:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Amazon in Southern America</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fresh Water Angelfish:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Tropical species of cichlid</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Diet:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Omnivore-Remember
if they can wrap their mouth around it they will eat it</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Size (L):</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> 7cm - 30cm (3in - 12in)</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Water Type:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Fresh Water</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Optimum pH Level:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> 6.5
– 6.9</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Life Span:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> 6
- 15 years</span></span><br />
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Conservation Status:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> <u>Threatened
in the Wild</u></span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Colors:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Black, White, Brown, Yellow,
Orange, Purple, Silver, Grey</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Skin Type:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Scales</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Favorite Food:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Frozen Shrimp, Worms, Flakes,
Aquatic Plants and Young Fish</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Habitat:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Warm Fresh Water Rivers </span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Average Size Egg Laying:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> 100 to 500 Eggs</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> lay their eggs on a flat leaf or on
underwater logs and</span> <span style="font-family: Arial;">hatch
in a couple of days of being laid</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">The Fry:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (known as baby angelfish) will feed
off and remain attached to the eggs yolk and sack for week</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fresh Angelfish: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">When 7 days old the angelfish fry
detach from their egg sacks and become free swimming.</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Main Prey:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Smaller
Fish, Algae, Plankton and Eating Particles of Food Found in the Water and Aquatic
Plants</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Predators:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Young
Fish, Smaller Fish, Invertebrates</span></span><br />
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Distinctive Features:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Head & body shape & their
body markings</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">: Has more triangular shape and will
commonly only grow to a few inches in length. Their body shape allows them to
hide from predators in rocks and aquatic plants</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Behavior:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Semi Aggressive</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Breed for Life</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">: it has been establish and observed
that if one of the angelfish breeding partner dies the remaining angelfish will
not bread again</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Temperature Freshwater Angelfish: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">temperature range of 74 F to 78 F for
display</span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Temperature Freshwater Angelfish: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">temperature of 80 F for spawning</span></span><br />
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Males and females look the same
until breeding, both sexes have an organ called a papilla located between their
anal and ventral fins when she is carrying eggs, her papilla becomes slightly
enlarged and has a blunt tip but this certainly not fool proof; you will know
when she starts laying eggs </span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> <b><u><span style="color: red;">Are Not Community Fish</span></u><span style="color: red;">:</span></b> freshwater angelfish can live with a variety of
other tropical species only while they are very young, freshwater angelfish
become territorial and aggressive as they mature for this reason, it's better
to house them in their own separate tank </span></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Require
Specific Tank Conditions:</span></b> <span style="font-family: Arial;">keep angelfish in the largest size tank you can purchase 50 gallon or
greater and make sure you have a good filtration system that doesn't create
excessive currents in the water since angels aren't the most agile swimmers
pretty to look at but they are real klutz; the right water conditions can
lessen stress on your freshwater angelfish and will keep them in good health</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">General Care of Freshwater Angelfish</span></b></span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium Size:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> actual aquarium size is relatively
important and the number of freshwater angelfish per gallon is absolutely critical.
This figure varies depending on several factors. </span></span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Obviously,
size has a lot to do with carrying capacity. Other variables that affect this include
pH, temperature, feeding practices, water changing volume, water changing
frequency, strain of angelfish being kept and the overall quality of angelfish
you desire to raise or maintain.</span></span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Keep
in mind, the number of angelfish per gallon a tank can handle, will vary
immensely from one situation to another. The following would be a very general
guideline.</span></span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nickel
size body of 1 freshwater angelfish per gallon</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Quarter
size body 1 freshwater angelfish per 2 gallons</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Silver
dollar size body1 freshwater angelfish per 3 gallons</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Full
grown 1 breeding pair 40 gallon tank</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium
Filter: Good biological filtration can be easily obtained a number of ways. Freshwater
Angelfish body shapes are not designed for efficient swimming; therefore gentle
aquarium filtration is preferred and required. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lots
of water movement will stress your freshwater angelfish somewhat and will cause
slower growth due to the increased energy expended to swim against a current. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Angels
plus Sponge filters are ideal for fish hatchery situations, where expense is a
concern. In show tanks, under gravel filters works well. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">In
a densely populated tank this should be avoided, a whole-tank filter is a very
effective option. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">A
very effective secondary filter that will not clog is a fluidized bed filter.
In general, the limiting factor for angelfish carrying capacity is not
biological filtration. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">It
is dissolved organics and high bacterial loads that develop from keeping too
many fish in a tank, overfeeding or changing too little water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Large,
frequent water changes are the easiest way to lower these dissolved organic and
bacterial levels. Sophisticated systems will sometimes incorporate the use of
ozone, foam fractionation and U.V. filters to accomplish the lowering of these
organic and bacterial loads, </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium
Temperature: Angelfish have a tolerance to a wide range of aquarium
temperatures, but immune system response is best at higher temperatures.
Therefore, if your fish husbandry is less than ideal, you will have more
problems at lower temperatures. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">80°
F is a good start for a hatchery situation. Mid to upper seventies is fine for
show tanks. As a cold blooded animal, angelfish will live longer at lower
temps. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Higher
temperatures will promote faster growth, more frequent breeding, better immune
system response and shorter life spans.</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Feeding
Angelfish: Feeding is more of an art, than a science. No one can tell you
exactly how much food to put in an aquarium. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
ideal amount will change everyday as the angelfish grow, and will be different
with varying temperature, pH, maintenance schedules and frequency of feedings. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Good
observation is the key. Overfeeding angelfish is worse than underfeeding. Feed
a variety of high quality foods and observe the aquarium and the angelfish
closely when feeding. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">If
you want to feed a superior fish food, try making your own paste fish food. We
have a great fish paste food recipe.</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Angelfish
Fry - For the first 3 weeks of their life you will find it difficult to raise
any number of high quality angelfish with anything other than live foods such
as live baby brine shrimp or microworms. Are feed these exclusively for the
first 4-5 weeks. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Introduction
of a new fish food usually requires that it be introduced gradually. Angelfish
should be voracious eaters when they are healthy and properly fed.</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">As
exciting as raising young angelfish can be, it is a great disservice to the
species and the hobby to perpetuate the genes of lower quality angelfish. Look
here for more information on how to produce quality angelfish breeding stock.</span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Quarantine:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Angelfish are affected by viruses,
bacteria and parasites that sometimes have little or no effect on fish other
than a few South American cichlids. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">However,
with freshwater angelfish some of these can cause death within a day or two. Others
will simply cause nagging problems that never cease. The only good way to
prevent the introduction of these problems is to properly quarantine every
fish, plant or other aquatic animal that was obtained from any other source.</span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">A
single micro-droplet of water from an aquarium containing a disease, can infect
a healthy aquarium, so the quarantine tank should be in a separate room with
its own net, siphon, water bucket, etc. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">When
the quarantined fish look healthy after a few weeks, you will then have to test
for hidden diseases that the quarantined fish may be resistant to. The best way
to test for this is with a microscope. If you don't have access to one, then
next best is to introduce one dispensable fish from a healthy tank into the
quarantine tank and wait a couple weeks to see if the introduced fish gets
sick. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">If
it doesn't, then there is a fairly good chance that the quarantined fish are
safe for introduction to your regular tanks. Check this out for more details on
how to quarantine fish.</span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Disease: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">following are the diseases that most
commonly infect freshwater angelfish.</span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Virus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">: A Potentially deadly disease. It
is highly infectious. All exposed angelfish that are not immune will come down
with symptoms within 2-3 days of exposure, usually quicker. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">If
you suspect that a quarantined fish has this, you should destroy the fish. The
risk is too great to keep such a fish around. There is no medication for this
virus. The fish's immune system must be relied upon for the cure. Symptoms: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Clamped fins, excess slime, listless
with nose pointed up slightly</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">, usually towards the back of the aquarium. It has an
approximately 3 week infectious period. This disease is so undesirable, because
if an angelfish survives the virus, it will likely become a carrier for up to
six months. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">This
can put an freshwater angelfish breeding operation out of business very
quickly. These symptoms can also be caused by other infectious diseases which
may be secondary or tertiary infections; that are unrelated to the virus. The
object is to keep the angelfish comfortable while giving the immune system time
to kick in. Remove any bright lights from the aquarium and treat with an
antibiotic to prevent secondary infections.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Flagellates: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Protozoans such as these cause
persistent trouble in situations where angelfish are stressed. Hexamita is one
that is very prevalent. It is thought to be present in all angelfish, at least
in small numbers, and an outbreak is what you're trying to prevent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">It
appears to explode in numbers if the fish are too crowded, overfed or being
overly stressed by some other situation in the aquarium. Stressing your angelfish
is what you need to avoid. Symptoms: If the angelfish is still eating, they
will pass white, chalky feces. </span></div>
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</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Appetite Will Decrease</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">: No external symptoms will appear
on the angelfish. They are prone to secondary infections of bacteria and other
parasites when in this weakened condition. To cure, relieve stress and then
raise the tank temperature to 95° F for 7-10 days and medicate with
metronidazole, or a medicated food that contains it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Parasites:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The ones that cause the biggest
problems with angelfish are a nematode known as Capillaria, and gill flukes. Many
others can be present, but these two are the most common. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
only way to positively identify a parasite is to have a microscope and the
know-how to examine gill samples, skin scraping, and fecal samples. This is
beyond the average aquarist, so generally it is recommend a heat treatment to
help the angelfish fend off the parasitic infestation. </span></div>
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</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Try
95° F. for 7-10 days if you suspect a parasite. If there is no response within
that time, then it is likely something else, or a combination of pathogens.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> C</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">apillaria symptoms:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The infected angelfish will have no
appetite. They will commonly mouth their fish food and spit it out. The
angelfish get progressively thinner until they die. Capillaria is a round worm
that is hair-like, and up to an inch long. It is diagnosed by worm eggs in the
feces. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> <b>C</b></span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">apillaria Worm:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> egg is oval with a cork-like plug
in each end. Severe capillaria infections are almost always accompanied with
outbreaks of hexamita in the infected angelfish. This makes diagnosis and treatment
even more difficult. For gill flukes, capillaria, or nematodes, treat with a
medicated flake designed to de-worm.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Freshwater Angelfish Medicine
Cabinet:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> If you
need to order medications after your angelfish have a problem, it may be too
late. It's a good idea to have the basic medications on hand. Keep them stored
cool, dry and dark and they will last long past the normal expiration dates.
This is what we recommend that you have in your angelfish care arsenal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Disease Dip</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> - Disinfectant for wounds, scrapes
& abrasions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Broad spectrum Antibiotic</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> - A couple to cover a wider range</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Internal
parasite eliminator - Metronidazole, Praziquantel and Fenbendazole are the main
medications.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Metronidazole
- To combat hexamita and spironucleus, two protozoans that are common problems.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ich Control</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> - use No-ParaIch.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Medicated Foods designed to treat
bacteria</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">, worms and
flagellates.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Although
there are many other valuable medications, these will cover most of the more
common angelfish problems. The medicated foods are especially important.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium
Temperature for Fish Disease Treatment: As stated above, high temperatures are
useful when treating parasite problems. Be careful, for there are many people
who recommend heat for bacterial or viral infections. Their poor advice will
most likely kill your angelfish. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Bacteria
and viruses thrive at higher temperatures and multiply at much faster rates. If
you suspect an external bacterial problem, treatment is the application of the
proper antibiotic. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> T</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">his
can only be determined by culturing the bacteria in an incubator, identifying
it, and then testing to see what anti-biotic will kill it. If you can't do
that, then start out with broad spectrum antibiotics such as Kanamycin Sulfate
or Bifuran. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sometimes,
combinations of antibiotics are good choices to broaden the treatment even
further. If it's an internal bacterium,
identification of the bacteria will require an angelfish to be sacrificed in
order to get a fresh sample of the internal bacteria. Treatment for internal
bacteria must be by intramuscular injection or by feeding a medicated fish food
with the proper antibiotic in it. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0in; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">In
some cases a skin-adsorbing antibiotic such as Kanamycin will work, but it is
no going to be as effective as getting the antibiotic into the fish's body. Of
course, the freshwater angelfish must be eating well for a medicated fish food
to work.</span></div>
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JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-32783626623664891822012-06-09T09:22:00.000-07:002012-06-09T11:14:11.379-07:00South American Pike Dwarf Cichlid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJQB6CIe1euQN3fIWsCNs_0Pqk6LNhjcyH4-mok4XCf7S577sRjnJhK1aEX3z-ASLfYo91ZiN7haQxA0eNhxUw06MAeprB2yEj2pmVXaOMC8xgLn2Pa_MpvDNAwVdtWMIoit27zexk0I/s1600/a127-01-Crenicichla+regani%252C+the+gentle+pike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJQB6CIe1euQN3fIWsCNs_0Pqk6LNhjcyH4-mok4XCf7S577sRjnJhK1aEX3z-ASLfYo91ZiN7haQxA0eNhxUw06MAeprB2yEj2pmVXaOMC8xgLn2Pa_MpvDNAwVdtWMIoit27zexk0I/s400/a127-01-Crenicichla+regani%252C+the+gentle+pike.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Dwarf <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crenicichla" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Crenicichla">Pike Cichlid</a></span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">South <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.8833333333,-77.0166666667&spn=10.0,10.0&q=38.8833333333,-77.0166666667%20%28United%20States%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="United States">American</a> dwarf <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crenicichla" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Crenicichla">pike cichlid</a>; dwarf
pike <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Cichlid">cichlids</a> intriguing group of vigorous, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Predation" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Predation">predatory</a> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dwarf_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Dwarf cichlid">dwarf cichlids</a> they
belong to the. Majority of this species is found in the South American <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amazon_rainforest" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Amazon rainforest">Amazon
region</a> where they inhabit rivers, streams, lakes and pools but pike cichlids
over most of the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="South America">South American continent</a>. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">To the south, they have inhabited coast to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-3.13333333333,-59.9083333333&spn=0.1,0.1&q=-3.13333333333,-59.9083333333%20%28Rio%20Negro%20%28Amazon%29%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Rio Negro (Amazon)">Rio Negro</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> in the central regions of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Argentina</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, just north of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-41.81015,-68.90627&spn=1.0,1.0&q=-41.81015,-68.90627%20%28Patagonia%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Patagonia">Patagonia</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. To the north, their habitat includes </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Colombia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Venezuela</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Guyana</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">island</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trinidad</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> however the pike cichlids are never found west of the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-32.6527777778,-70.0111111111&spn=0.1,0.1&q=-32.6527777778,-70.0111111111%20%28Andes%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Andes">Andes</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIFerhHGasywz5GXPCao37vlGIK4C3f73GZ9lvEx9xCR9u26hP9hVAj242GphcAtIr8ttspwPkHQhe7OZC6vZaWoEgj_6m6A1WLx5oNkme1LQrefNPIzjPymKVHT9xsnhHzTOvgOCero/s1600/images-dwarf+cichlid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIFerhHGasywz5GXPCao37vlGIK4C3f73GZ9lvEx9xCR9u26hP9hVAj242GphcAtIr8ttspwPkHQhe7OZC6vZaWoEgj_6m6A1WLx5oNkme1LQrefNPIzjPymKVHT9xsnhHzTOvgOCero/s400/images-dwarf+cichlid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">South American <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dwarf_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Dwarf cichlid">Dwarf Cichlid</a></span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Most pike cichlids require and are warm
water fishes that require high temperatures in <a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/pike.php"><span style="color: black;">their aquarium</span></a>, but there are a few notable exceptions to
this rule. The Argentinean <i>Crenicichla lacustris </i>and the Uruguayan <i>Crenicichla
scotti </i>are for instance found in colder environments and will appreciate
lower temperatures in the aquarium. It is therefore important to study the
species you are interested in before you bring them home; do not assume that
all pike cichlids have the same preferences or requirements. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Description </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When you look at a pike cichlid, you can
clearly see that this is a capable predator. A majority of the species sports
an elongated body that ends in a broad, protrusible mouth. This body shape can
be observed regardless of whether you are looking at a huge 24 inch specimen or
one of the petite dwarf species that grow no bigger than 3-4 inches. Species
that grow to be roughly 6-10 inches as adults are considered medium-sized pike
cichlids. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Hunting technique </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The most commonly observed hunting technique
among pike cichlids is witness as ambushing this has been described the
pike will lurk behind a rock or sunken tree branches until an unsuspecting prey
ventures close enough. The pike will then carry out a rapid, forceful chase to
seize its prey. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you keep your pike cichlids in a large
enough aquarium and feed them live food you will be able to enjoy this dynamic
natural behavior. Pike cichlids will naturally require rocks, driftwood
etcetera in the aquarium to hide among. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A majority of the pike cichlid species feed
primarily on fish, but a number of species have developed in other directions.
The Brazilian pike cichlids named <i>Crenicichla compressiceps</i> and <i>Crenicichla
cyclostoma </i>have for instance specialized in catching insects. </span><br />
<br />
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<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Keeping Pike Cichlids in
home aquariums </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many aquarists believe that pike cichlids
are superb aggressive death machines that can only be housed alone and that
will viciously attack each other as well as any other fish regardless of size
and temperament. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It is true that pike cichlids are highly
skilled predators that will feed on a wide assortment of prey and it is also
true that they can be really aggressive in captivity but if you are willing to
learn more about pike cichlids before you purchase them you will see that there
are many ways for the aquarist to handle this potential aggressiveness and set
up a well functioning pike cichlid aquarium where the amount of aggression is
kept at a minimum. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbZRaZ2HDZTMHtKzLa425N6oTUu_yNnVkhX_qYVQoxknMW_jYG6g4ke2Dm1FHjPbqgDtgotI1nQYWOYp6xat5Od1mixQBwayJEhV9lts4V-x3nPx3g5uPmVqWV8O06wHK33O68NSY6N4/s1600/images-Compressiceps+Dwarf+Pike+Cichlid4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbZRaZ2HDZTMHtKzLa425N6oTUu_yNnVkhX_qYVQoxknMW_jYG6g4ke2Dm1FHjPbqgDtgotI1nQYWOYp6xat5Od1mixQBwayJEhV9lts4V-x3nPx3g5uPmVqWV8O06wHK33O68NSY6N4/s1600/images-Compressiceps+Dwarf+Pike+Cichlid4.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many cichlids are renowned for being keen on
redecorating their home; frequently ruining planted plants in the process. Pike
cichlids are however equipped with a jaw structure that makes moving, pulling
and tugging difficult for them, and they will therefore usually leave the <a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/pike.php"><span style="color: black;">aquarium decoration</span></a> alone. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">They can still dig up the occasional plant,
but compared to for instance the Central American Cichlasoma cichlids, they are
on friendly terms with the plant life in the aquarium. If problems still occur,
switch from planted plants to species that can be anchored on drift wood and
rocks or left floating. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Aquarium size </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The recommended aquarium size will depend on
which pike cichlid species you chose and how many specimens you wish to keep
together. Their size if your fish and the presence of any <a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/pike.php"><span style="color: black;">tank mates</span></a> will naturally also effect how small the aquarium
can be. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If your aquarium is no bigger than 30
gallons, it is advisable to choose small and comparatively peaceful species
such as <i>Crenicichla notophthalmus</i>,<i> Crenicichla regani </i>or<i>
Crenicichla urosema</i>. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNqE85HuOiSAA2oxbP2zOsQ_hX0QnavvNah2vHxFibyxl2BpYxUhm0c2LIzUJ_mm2mC8Mv_AvURfgW46Pgk3G__rtr2n-10cIDJqXQOi8qEzI8YB-n651CI7EspIAkWxijyMJAce3QZw/s1600/images-sharing+with+pike+cichlid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFNqE85HuOiSAA2oxbP2zOsQ_hX0QnavvNah2vHxFibyxl2BpYxUhm0c2LIzUJ_mm2mC8Mv_AvURfgW46Pgk3G__rtr2n-10cIDJqXQOi8qEzI8YB-n651CI7EspIAkWxijyMJAce3QZw/s1600/images-sharing+with+pike+cichlid.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">More aggressive dwarf species, e.g. <i>Crenicichla
compressiceps</i>, should not be kept in aquariums smaller than 55 gallons due
to their temperament. Keep in mind that small aquariums are harder to maintain
than big aquariums, especially when feeding live and frozen foods. Using bigger
aquariums than the bare minimum will help you keep the water quality up.</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Instead of aggressive dwarf species, a 55
gallon aquarium can be used to house mid-sized and comparatively peaceful
species such as <i>Crenicichla britskii</i>, <i>Crenicichla geayi </i>and <i>Crenicichla</i>
<i>cf. menesezi</i>. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If your aquarium is even bigger, you can
have your pick among most pike cichlids, except for really big ones such as <i>Crenicichla
johanna</i>,<i> Crenicichla lugubris </i>and the huge<i> Crenicichla sp. Xingu
I</i> (commonly known as Orange pike cichlids), which can only be housed in 125
gallon aquariums or bigger. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you are in the process of choosing
between two aquariums of different size for your pike cichlids, always go for
the bigger one. In a large and roomy aquarium, pike cichlids will exhibit a
much broader repertoire of natural behaviors. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Water quality </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf cichlids should only be kept by aquarists
capable of keeping the water quality up in the aquarium, since they are very
sensitive to poor water quality and will die of you allow the water quality to
drop. The same is true for the big, small-scaled species of the
Lugubris-group. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The native environment for dwarf pikes and
Lugubris species are the black waters of the Amazon where the amounts of
pollution and bacteria are very low. Such conditions, including the correct
water hardiness and pH-value, must be mimicked in the aquarium. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKyRCMJFiOAdCyzUp3NaRBu6iwdoEqbi-_s3pEPV9HqG4x0GdDqTW_SWUo8Sp8_0g_IUqCVXvAqMlQdGcpZqaFXYo-teimig3fmnFZFP3zBlvtJimlPu0MWcfTRRUWqYMkFSFYGoFjfE/s1600/images-Dwarf+green+pike+cichlids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKyRCMJFiOAdCyzUp3NaRBu6iwdoEqbi-_s3pEPV9HqG4x0GdDqTW_SWUo8Sp8_0g_IUqCVXvAqMlQdGcpZqaFXYo-teimig3fmnFZFP3zBlvtJimlPu0MWcfTRRUWqYMkFSFYGoFjfE/s400/images-Dwarf+green+pike+cichlids.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rare Green Pike Cichlid</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Even a small increase in the levels of
organic waste in the aquarium can lead to hole-in-the-head disease in big pike
cichlids, while the less resilient dwarf species simply die. Powerful
filtration must be combined with large and frequent water changes if you want
to house these species, and this is something that you have to devote yourself
to year round, not simply when you have the time. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you want a hardier type of pike cichlid,
you can for instance select one of the medium sized cichlids of the Saxatilis-group.
These cichlids are known to adapt to most types of tap water as long as you use
normal water treatment stay clear of the extremes. Saxatilis cichlids can even
breed in captivity without much coaxing. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Always research the species you are interested
in order to find out which environment they hail from and which water
parameters they require. Generally speaking, black water species need really <a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/pike.php"><span style="color: black;">soft water</span></a> where the pH-value is kept between 5 and 6. This
is especially important if you want to breed pike cichlids from this
environment. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Feeding </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If your pike cichlids are wild caught, they
may refuse to eat prepared food and you must be prepared to provide them with
live, or at the least frozen, meaty foods. Wild caught pike cichlids can be
trained to accept cichlid pellets, but it will require patients and
persistence. Juveniles are usually much easier to convert than adult specimens. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Captive bred pike cichlids have normally been trained to accept cichlid pellets
from a young age and are therefore easier to feed than wild caught
specimens. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Even if you obtain pike cichlids that accept
cichlid pellets, it is however a good idea to provide them with a varied diet
where pellets are combined with live and frozen foods. You can for instance
give your pike cichlids crustaceans, live earthworms and live fish. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Your pike cichlids will be much happier in
the aquarium if they are allowed to carry out their normal feeding behaviors,
and risk of nutritional deficiency will also be reduced. Keeping pike cichlids
on a diet consisting of nothing but cichlid <b><u><span style="color: red;">pellets
have been linked to hole-in-the-head disease</span></u></b>, but more research
is necessary before we can know for sure if this link is valid or if it is a
mere coincidence. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Handling pike
aggression </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">There are several things that you can do in
order to reduce the risk of violence in the aquarium when keeping pike
cichlids. To begin with, pike cichlids should naturally never be combined with
small fish species or small crustaceans since they will be considered food. The
pike cichlid is after all a predatory fish. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The pike cichlid can be really aggressive
toward members of the same species but the amount of violence can be reduced by
choosing specimens of roughly the same size. If you want to house pike cichlids
with other species, ideally pick species with different shapes and colors to
make it clear for the pike cichlids that these fishes belong to a completely
different group of fish and that there is no need to fight them.</span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Adding PVC tubes that you have glued gravel
or rock too make sure the glue is non toxic in the aquarium set up - this is a
splendid way of reducing aggression in a pike cichlid aquarium since it makes
it possible for each fish to retreat and stay away from the others instead of
violently trying to take over the entire aquarium. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">There should be at least one tube for each
fish and the tube must be wide enough to comfortably house the fish. Adding
more tubes than fish is definitely recommended since this will prevent fighting
over the tubes themselves. If you find PVC tubes unsightly, you can obtain
hollow pieces of driftwood instead or decorate the PVC tubes using pebbles and
plants. </span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Breeding Pike Cichlids </span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you have never bred any pike cichlids
before, one of the Saxatilis species is a good choice since they are not that
tricky to breed in captivity. These fishes are also known as Spangled Pikes; a
group of sturdy species very popular among aquarists since they are less fuzzy than
the sensitive dwarf cichlids and not as space consuming as the biggest
species. </span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Saxatilis cichlids are cave spawners and you
should therefore provide them with a suitable cave in the aquarium if you want
them to breed. The female will deposit adhese eggs inside the cave and they
will stick to the cave wall where they are easy to safe-guard. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The female will care for the eggs will the
male fends of intruders. You should therefore let the parents stay with their
offspring; they are devoted parents and will not eat eggs or fry. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">They will even keep other adult fish at bay.
Saxatilis eggs normally hatch within 4 days and the fry will be free swimming
within another 4 days. The exact time will depend on water temperature. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Newly hatched <b><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/cichlid/pike.php"><span style="color: red;">brine shrimp</span></a></span></b> is a suitable first food for the fry
and you can then gradually increase the size of the brine shrimp as the fry
grow bigger. Large fry will readily devour small fry, so if you want a high
survival rate the fry must be segregated by size. If you do not segregate the
fry, it will eventually lead to a much biased sex ratio. </span><br />
<br />
<b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Species of Apistogramma and smaller Cichlasoma</span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> types dominate my tanks, but on a recent trip to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cleveland</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> for the Ohio Cichlid Association Cichlid
Extravaganza I found none listed on the showroom bulletin board. What I did
find were "dwarf" pikes (genus Crenicichla), so just out of curiosity
I went to check them out. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">After looking at three pairs of Crenicichla
regani Ploeg, 1989, I decided to purchase only one 3" pair. Little did I
know I would later regret that decision. At the time I simply figured that they
would make a nice addition to a large display tank, and I would have something
different to show club members when I arrived back home.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">
Always having been told that pike cichlids would accept only live foods, I
purchased a couple dozen feeder guppies and placed them along with the pikes in
a 76 liters (20-gallon), slate bottom tank just to grow them out. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A half-dozen
10 cm (4") clay flowerpots or use PVC-pipe were placed in different locations about the
tank. I cut an entranceway in each just large enough for the fish to enter, as
I normally do with apistos. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A few floating killifish-type
"mops" were added along with a large handful of Java moss. No gravel
or any other type of substrate was used; two jumbo bubble-up box filters
completed the setup. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">All I had to do was sit back and watch the fighting, as I
was sure they would kill each other sooner or later. And sure enough the male
began chasing the female relentlessly about the tank; I felt so sorry for her
that he was removed to an adjacent tank, and both were forgotten. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">After another
two months or so, I noticed both displaying through the glass sidewalls.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Eight months after their birth, the F1's are
now spawning and rearing fry in regular tap water<br />
<br />
Given their interest in each other, I returned the male to the main tank, but a
clear glass divider was inserted to separate him from the female. Both live
baby brine shrimp and frozen brine shrimp were accepted greedily. All this time
the pair was maintained in regular tap water with a hardness of 170 ppm and a
pH of 7.5 at a temperature of 26°C (78°F).</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Next I removed 80% of the water, replacing
it with purified RO water at a temperature of 22°C (72°F). This drastic change
quickly brought down the tank temperature to 23°C (74°F) with a hardness of 40
ppm and a pH of 6.0. Over the next two days the temperature returned to 26°C
(78°F), and the female's belly developed a rosy hue. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The divider was then removed and since
nothing violent resulted I left the pair together overnight. The next morning
the male was patrolling the tank, but the female was nowhere to be seen. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hours later I could wait no longer and began
lifting the pots to locate her carcass assuming the worse but instead was
delighted to find her hiding under one of them, guarding a clutch of
beige-colored eggs hanging from the ceiling by fine, short threads. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The male was then immediately transferred to
his previous home. Nothing else much was observed for the next five days until
I finally noticed wrigglers on the slate bottom under the pot, guarded
carefully by the attentive female.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
<b>Crenicichla regani</b><br />
Crenicichlia regani female from the Rio Trombetas caring for her fry </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Cichlids Yearbook 6, page 75. Fish and
Photo by Frank Warzel.<br />
<br />
By this time the male had reached about 10 cm (4") in length, the female 9
cm (3.5"). He had a light tan ground color with a very dark lateral
stripe; the pointed dorsal and anal fins were pale orange edged in
bluish-black. The female had more rounded unpaired fins; the dorsal fin
contained an extensive black blotch surrounded by a starkly contrasting white
border. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Five days later I finally observed the fry
swimming about the tank, herded along in a small tight school by the female. At
this time freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii were provided, and soon after
all the fry were observed with pink, distended bellies. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The original feeder guppies were still for
the most part present and unbothered; however, guppy fry disappeared as quickly
as they were born. After only two months the pike fry were already 2.5 cm
(1") in length and removed to their own tank where the water was gradually
converted back to regular tap water. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The parents were then reunited and have
never fought since. For their second spawn I left them together. The female
guarded the eggs and wrigglers, with the male joining in the care of the
free-swimming fry. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">I am thankful for this, as I believe that
there is no greater pleasure in the hobby than seeing a devoted pair leading
young around their tank. I should have taken all three pairs, but I had no idea
that they would spawn. I have since learned that my pair is the only of the
three to survive.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
<b>About a dozen adults can be grown out
and maintained in a 76 liters</b><br />
<br />
Eight months after their birth, the F1's are now spawning and rearing fry in
regular tap water. One thing I've noticed is that each individual male and
female is somehow unique in appearance. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Interestingly, some of the fry are much more
colorful than the parents. At this time the original pair has not changed in
size, but the female now has four black blotches that run together but are all
encircled by the white margin in the dorsal fin. In the year-old females, the
markings in the dorsal are quite variable (see Warzel, 1996).<br />
<br />
I call Crenicichla regani the "gentle pike," because about a dozen
adults can be grown out and maintained in a 76 liters (20-gal "long")
along with some dither fish with no problems whatsoever. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Of a hatch of about 100 fry, I get about 65%
males, which isn't bad though the females are much better looking. I don't have
a community display tank, but I believe the "gentle pike" would be a
welcome addition to any display of small to medium-sized South American
cichlids.<br />
<br />
Many thanks to Mike Zebrowski of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Michigan</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> for collecting the wild fish in the Rio Purus of
Brazil and to Wayne Leibel who encouraged me in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cleveland</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to obtain at least one pair.<br />
References</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
Warzel, F.; 1996; Variation in Crenicichla regani. The
Cichlids Yearbook 6:74-79.© Copyright 1998 Don Zilliox, all rights reserved<br />
<br />
Citation:<br />
<br />
Zilliox, Don. (</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">October 21, 1999</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">). "Crenicichla regani, the gentle pike".
The Cichlid Room Companion. Retrieved on </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">June 09, 2012</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, from: http://www.cichlidae.com/article.php?id=127. </span><br />
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-48118147354110014562012-06-03T12:33:00.002-07:002012-06-03T12:33:56.668-07:00Site Map-Drawf Flag Cichlid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/care-of-live-aquarium-plants.html" title="Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html" title="Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-grow-daphnia-for-aquarium.html" title="How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-good-and-bad-algae.html" title="Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
10/
<span class="lcount">1 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/10/live-crickets-care-breeding-and-feeding.html" title="Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
12/
<span class="lcount">10 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/congress-chooses-hells-fury.html" title="Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish">
Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blue-dolphin-cichlid-lipid-metallic.html" title="Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish">
Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/c-frontosa-cichlid-cant-deal-with.html" title="C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish">
C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/african-jewelfish-diet-reproduction-ph.html" title="African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish">
African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" title="Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/eggs-everywhere-what-do-i-do.html" title="&#8220;Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html" title="Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish">
Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html" title="Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="99"><div class="lhead">
2012/
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<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
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</tr>
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<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
01/
<span class="lcount">7 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html" title="Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America
Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids |
African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-too-identify-fin-rot.html" title="FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish">
FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html" title="Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-kept-freshwater-cichlids.html" title="Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html" title="South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish">
South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
02/
<span class="lcount">8 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html" title="Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html" title="Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish">
Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html" title="Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish">
Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/etroplus-maculatus-india-and-sri-lanka.html" title="Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/iranocichla-hormuzensis-iran-cichlid.html" title="Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/anubias-nana-pette-beautiful-anubias.html" title="Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/vallisneria-spiralis-italian-vals.html" title="Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html" title="Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish">
Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
03/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/electric-yellow-lab-cichlid-is-lake.html" title="Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish">
Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/courtship-in-monogamous-convict-cichlid.html" title="Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African Cichlids Fish">
Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are
individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African
Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/convict-cichlid-archocentrus-cichlidae.html" title="Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
06/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/easy-to-raise-easy-to-breed-peaceful.html" title="Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/html-site-map-homepage-last-updated.html" title="Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/breeding-stomatepia-pindu.html" title="Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish">
Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/" title="African Cichlids Fish">
African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_03_01_archive.html" title="March 2012 | African Cichlids Fish">
March 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_02_01_archive.html" title="February 2012 | African Cichlids Fish">
February 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_01_01_archive.html" title="January 2012 | African Cichlids Fish">
January 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_12_01_archive.html" title="December 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
December 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html" title="October 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
October 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_01_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_01_archive.html" title="August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_13_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_11_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_10_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_04_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_02_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_29_archive.html" title="August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
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2011/
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<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
08/
<span class="lcount">2 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/guide-to-stocking-tropical-freshwater.html" title="A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-keep-lake-malawi-african.html" title="Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
09/
<span class="lcount">27 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquariums-for-restaurants-and-bars_13.html" title="Cichlids Aquariums for Restaurantsand Bars | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids Aquariums for Restaurantsand Bars | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_23.html" title="Firemouth Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Firemouth Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishes-in-relation-to-world-of-feng.html" title="Fishes Relationship To Feng Shui | African Cichlids Fish">
Fishes Relationship To Feng Shui | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/liquid-rubber-for-ponds-and-plywood.html" title="Save Ton Of Money Build Your Own Aquarumin Liquid Rubber For Ponds and Plywood Application | African Cichlids Fish">
Save Ton Of Money Build Your Own Aquarumin Liquid Rubber For Ponds and Plywood Application | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/glass-aquariums_13.html" title="Cichlids Glass Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids Glass Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tilapia_23.html" title="Tilapia Oscar Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Tilapia Oscar Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/proper-temperature-for-tropical.html" title="Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater | African Cichlids Fish">
Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-upkeep-basics.html" title="Aquarium Upkeep Basics | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Upkeep Basics | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-raise-white-worms-for-aquarium.html" title="How To Raise White Worms for Fun and Profit | African Cichlids Fish">
How To Raise White Worms for Fun and Profit | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/brighten-up-your-saltwater-aquarium_13.html" title="Saltwater Aquarium Natural Decorations | African Cichlids Fish">
Saltwater Aquarium Natural Decorations | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-equipment-do-i-need-to-become-fish_13.html" title="Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder? | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder? | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-get-rid-of-green-hair-algae-in.html" title="Aquarium-How To Get Rid Of Green Hair Algae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium-How To Get Rid Of Green Hair Algae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_13.html" title="Yucatan's Cichlid Firemouth | African Cichlids Fish">
Yucatan's Cichlid Firemouth | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishville-secrets-and-cheats_13.html" title="FishVille Insider Secrets, Strategies, Help Tips and Tricks - Beginning Steps | African Cichlids Fish">
FishVille Insider Secrets, Strategies, Help Tips and Tricks - Beginning Steps | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-ornaments-can-you-put-in-your_13.html" title="Cichlids-What Ornaments Can You Put in Your Cichlids Aquarium | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-What Ornaments Can You Put in Your Cichlids Aquarium | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/avoid-black-algae-in-your-fish-tank.html" title="Cichlids- Avoid Black Algae In Your Fish Tank | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids- Avoid Black Algae In Your Fish Tank | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/is-fish-tank-light-harmful-for-your_13.html" title="Cichlids - Is Fish Tank Light Harmful For Your Fish? | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids - Is Fish Tank Light Harmful For Your Fish? | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tropical-fish-white-spot.html" title="Cichlids-White Spot Disease Is Called Ich | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-White Spot Disease Is Called Ich | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/here-are-some-fish-diseases-that-can.html" title="Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-fish-breeding-things-to_11.html" title="Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-raising-and-breeding-cichlid_11.html" title="Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-hard-water-stains-on-home_04.html" title="How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/care-of-live-aquarium-plants.html" title="Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html" title="Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-grow-daphnia-for-aquarium.html" title="How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-good-and-bad-algae.html" title="Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
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<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
10/
<span class="lcount">1 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/10/live-crickets-care-breeding-and-feeding.html" title="Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
12/
<span class="lcount">10 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/congress-chooses-hells-fury.html" title="Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish">
Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blue-dolphin-cichlid-lipid-metallic.html" title="Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish">
Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/c-frontosa-cichlid-cant-deal-with.html" title="C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish">
C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/african-jewelfish-diet-reproduction-ph.html" title="African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish">
African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" title="Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/eggs-everywhere-what-do-i-do.html" title="&#8220;Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html" title="Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish">
Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html" title="Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="99"><div class="lhead">
2012/
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<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
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<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
01/
<span class="lcount">7 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html" title="Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America
Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids |
African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-too-identify-fin-rot.html" title="FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish">
FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html" title="Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-kept-freshwater-cichlids.html" title="Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html" title="South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish">
South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
02/
<span class="lcount">8 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html" title="Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html" title="Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish">
Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html" title="Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish">
Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/etroplus-maculatus-india-and-sri-lanka.html" title="Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/iranocichla-hormuzensis-iran-cichlid.html" title="Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/anubias-nana-pette-beautiful-anubias.html" title="Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/vallisneria-spiralis-italian-vals.html" title="Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html" title="Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish">
Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
03/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/electric-yellow-lab-cichlid-is-lake.html" title="Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish">
Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/courtship-in-monogamous-convict-cichlid.html" title="Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African Cichlids Fish">
Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are
individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African
Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/convict-cichlid-archocentrus-cichlidae.html" title="Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
06/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/easy-to-raise-easy-to-breed-peaceful.html" title="Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/html-site-map-homepage-last-updated.html" title="Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/breeding-stomatepia-pindu.html" title="Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish">
Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/" title="African Cichlids Fish">
African Cichlids Fish
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March 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
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February 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
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January 2012 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_12_01_archive.html" title="December 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
December 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html" title="October 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
October 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
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<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_01_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_01_archive.html" title="August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_13_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_11_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_10_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_04_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_02_archive.html" title="September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
September 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_29_archive.html" title="August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish">
August 2011 | African Cichlids Fish
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2011/
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08/
<span class="lcount">2 pages</span></div>
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<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/guide-to-stocking-tropical-freshwater.html" title="A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
A Guide To Stocking Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-keep-lake-malawi-african.html" title="Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-How to Keep Lake Malawi African Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
09/
<span class="lcount">27 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquariums-for-restaurants-and-bars_13.html" title="Cichlids Aquariums for Restaurantsand Bars | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids Aquariums for Restaurantsand Bars | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_23.html" title="Firemouth Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Firemouth Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishes-in-relation-to-world-of-feng.html" title="Fishes Relationship To Feng Shui | African Cichlids Fish">
Fishes Relationship To Feng Shui | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/liquid-rubber-for-ponds-and-plywood.html" title="Save Ton Of Money Build Your Own Aquarumin Liquid Rubber For Ponds and Plywood Application | African Cichlids Fish">
Save Ton Of Money Build Your Own Aquarumin Liquid Rubber For Ponds and Plywood Application | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/glass-aquariums_13.html" title="Cichlids Glass Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids Glass Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tilapia_23.html" title="Tilapia Oscar Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Tilapia Oscar Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/proper-temperature-for-tropical.html" title="Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater | African Cichlids Fish">
Proper Temperature for Tropical Aquariums Freshwater | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-upkeep-basics.html" title="Aquarium Upkeep Basics | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Upkeep Basics | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-raise-white-worms-for-aquarium.html" title="How To Raise White Worms for Fun and Profit | African Cichlids Fish">
How To Raise White Worms for Fun and Profit | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/brighten-up-your-saltwater-aquarium_13.html" title="Saltwater Aquarium Natural Decorations | African Cichlids Fish">
Saltwater Aquarium Natural Decorations | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-equipment-do-i-need-to-become-fish_13.html" title="Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder? | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids -What Equipment Do I Need To Become A Fish Breeder? | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-get-rid-of-green-hair-algae-in.html" title="Aquarium-How To Get Rid Of Green Hair Algae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium-How To Get Rid Of Green Hair Algae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_13.html" title="Yucatan's Cichlid Firemouth | African Cichlids Fish">
Yucatan's Cichlid Firemouth | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishville-secrets-and-cheats_13.html" title="FishVille Insider Secrets, Strategies, Help Tips and Tricks - Beginning Steps | African Cichlids Fish">
FishVille Insider Secrets, Strategies, Help Tips and Tricks - Beginning Steps | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-ornaments-can-you-put-in-your_13.html" title="Cichlids-What Ornaments Can You Put in Your Cichlids Aquarium | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-What Ornaments Can You Put in Your Cichlids Aquarium | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/avoid-black-algae-in-your-fish-tank.html" title="Cichlids- Avoid Black Algae In Your Fish Tank | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids- Avoid Black Algae In Your Fish Tank | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/is-fish-tank-light-harmful-for-your_13.html" title="Cichlids - Is Fish Tank Light Harmful For Your Fish? | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids - Is Fish Tank Light Harmful For Your Fish? | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tropical-fish-white-spot.html" title="Cichlids-White Spot Disease Is Called Ich | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-White Spot Disease Is Called Ich | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/here-are-some-fish-diseases-that-can.html" title="Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlids-Here are Some Fish Diseases that can also Affect Humans | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-fish-breeding-things-to_11.html" title="Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid Fish Breeding: Things to Remember | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-raising-and-breeding-cichlid_11.html" title="Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid-Tips For Raising and Breeding Cichlid Fry | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-hard-water-stains-on-home_04.html" title="How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish">
How to Remove Hard Water Stains on Home Aquariums | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/care-of-live-aquarium-plants.html" title="Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Care of Live Home Aquarium Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html" title="Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Driftwood | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-grow-daphnia-for-aquarium.html" title="How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
How To Grow Water Fleas For Your Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-good-and-bad-algae.html" title="Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Good and Bad Algae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
10/
<span class="lcount">1 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/10/live-crickets-care-breeding-and-feeding.html" title="Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Crickets Selling, Care-Breeding-Feeding African Cichlid Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
12/
<span class="lcount">10 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/congress-chooses-hells-fury.html" title="Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish">
Congress Chooses Hell's Fury | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blue-dolphin-cichlid-lipid-metallic.html" title="Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish">
Blue Dolphin Cichlids-Blue Moorii Lipid Metallic-Blue | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/c-frontosa-cichlid-cant-deal-with.html" title="C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish">
C. Frontosa Cichlid Can't Deal With Loneliness | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/african-jewelfish-diet-reproduction-ph.html" title="African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish">
African Jewelfish, Diet, Reproduction, pH Requirements | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" title="Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/eggs-everywhere-what-do-i-do.html" title="&#8220;Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
“Eggs Everywhere What Do I Do- Jack Dempsey Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html" title="Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish">
Blood Parrot Cichlid Anatomical Deformities | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html" title="Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Keeping and Breeding Green Terror Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="99"><div class="lhead">
2012/
</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
01/
<span class="lcount">7 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html" title="Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Cichlid Types-Africian Cichlids, Central America Cichlids, South America
Cichlids, North America Cichlids, Asian Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids |
African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-too-identify-fin-rot.html" title="FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish">
FISH ILLNESS- Fin Rot | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html" title="Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish">
Live Plants for Cichlids-Aquarium Plants-Care-Information for Floaing Plants | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html" title="Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Site Map: African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-kept-freshwater-cichlids.html" title="Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html" title="South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish">
South America Cichlids-apistos | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html" title="Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish">
Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
02/
<span class="lcount">8 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html" title="Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html" title="Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish">
Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html" title="Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish">
Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass, | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/etroplus-maculatus-india-and-sri-lanka.html" title="Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/iranocichla-hormuzensis-iran-cichlid.html" title="Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/anubias-nana-pette-beautiful-anubias.html" title="Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish">
Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/vallisneria-spiralis-italian-vals.html" title="Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html" title="Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish">
Nitrate Balancing Act | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
03/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/electric-yellow-lab-cichlid-is-lake.html" title="Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish">
Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/courtship-in-monogamous-convict-cichlid.html" title="Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African Cichlids Fish">
Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are
individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates? | African
Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/convict-cichlid-archocentrus-cichlidae.html" title="Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish">
Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lbullet"> </td>
<td class="lpart" colspan="98"><div class="lhead">
06/
<span class="lcount">3 pages</span></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/easy-to-raise-easy-to-breed-peaceful.html" title="Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish">
Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/html-site-map-homepage-last-updated.html" title="Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish">
Sitemap African Cichlids Fish | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="lpage"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/06/breeding-stomatepia-pindu.html" title="Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish">
Breeding Stomatepia pindu | African Cichlids Fish
</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-84784782164890056532012-06-03T12:13:00.000-07:002012-06-03T12:13:01.889-07:00Easy to Raise, Easy to Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdmDeOOEzm65ndNvsFmLEPMxgn5MJrzaLSzn0kk2EPHGP1FeJ0CkdtsieSS5dfcqnpW6S03JgICsDEOMh_RFkqJYYWAkctX8V9-RrcqGHkN7vF2kyuf2VMu89WK1NIOukOB5T1AQD9Vc/s1600/images-Dwarf+Flag+Cichlid+-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdmDeOOEzm65ndNvsFmLEPMxgn5MJrzaLSzn0kk2EPHGP1FeJ0CkdtsieSS5dfcqnpW6S03JgICsDEOMh_RFkqJYYWAkctX8V9-RrcqGHkN7vF2kyuf2VMu89WK1NIOukOB5T1AQD9Vc/s400/images-Dwarf+Flag+Cichlid+-6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="rg_ctlv"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Dwarf Flag Cichlid</b></span> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laetacara_curviceps" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Laetacara curviceps">Dwarf flag cichlid</a> t</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">his is one of the easiest
<a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dwarf_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Dwarf cichlid">dwarf Cichlids</a> to breed. I had a pair in a 20 gal. <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=tropicalfreshwatercommunityaquarium">community
tank</a> spawn without even realizing it. I noticed all the other <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show-aquarium-fish.php">fish</a> at the other
end of the <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=fishtankguide">tank</a>
with the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlid </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">male standing guard, while the female </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlid </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">swam around with her brood
behind her. I now have a pair in 10 gal. tank and <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=fishfeeding">feed</a> them a good <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=feedingaquariumfish">diet</a> and
they look as if they are ready to spawn again. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The color change in the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlid </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">male is
magnificent. Slightly acidic <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=distilledwaterintheaquarium">water</a>,
good diet, plenty of <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumplants">plants</a> and <a href="http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumrocks">rocks</a>, and success
is pretty much guaranteed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Food and feeding</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Cichlid">cichlids</a> always does best
on live or frozen foods. Earthworms, chopped finely, blood worms, brine shrimp,
and tubifex will bring out their full coloration.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Maximum size in aquariums
(min-max):</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/lzV72LCbGeI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">10 gallon minimum or </span>37.854
117 84 liters<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;"> max<span> </span>50 gallon=</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12pt;">189.3
liters</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span> </span>Recommended <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="PH">pH</a> of water for Dwarf flag
cichlid:</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span> </span>6 - 7.8</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Hard water">Water hardness</a> (<a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DGH" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="DGH">dGH</a>) should be between:</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span> </span>0 - 18 °N</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span><span></span>Recommended water temperature for Dwarf flag cichlid:</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span> </span>22 - 28 °C -71.6 - 82.4 °F </span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spawn_%28biology%29" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Spawn (biology)">Fish</a>' compatibility within the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Species" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Species">species</a>:<span> </span>peaceful </span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span>Compatibility (temperament to other fish
species):<span> </span>peaceful </span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span>Preferred swimming area in the aquarium: <span></span>Bottom levels</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span></span>How </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlid</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> species reproduces: <span></span>Spawning</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">So Easy to Raise, Easy to
Breed-Peaceful Dwarf Flag Cichlids</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Origin </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf Flag Cichlids</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> this species originates
from:</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="South America">South America</a> </span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlids
originate from the Amazon tributaries in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">South America</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;"></span><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><b>Sexing</b> </span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dwarf flag cichlid </span>male is usually more brightly colored with extended dorsal and anal fins.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breeding</span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">Laetacara
curviceps will breed at a very young age. The pair should be conditioned on
live foods and the male will then commence to clean a spawning site, flat rocks
or a section of tank glass is the usual places. After a few days of spawning
the eggs should hatch but the fry will not be free swimmers until 5-7 days
later. The parents will share their duties of protecting the fry and sometimes
will move them in their mouths around the tank. The fry should be fed newly
hatched brine shrimp or crushed flake initially.</span><div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps, aka the
flag acara or dwarf flag cichlid is a dwarf cichlid lives in habits off
forested area streams or in sluggish tributaries and swamps off the main river
channels or slow-moving rivers and streams as well as ponds and lakes in the
vicinity of the Brazilian Amazon Basin. Flag acaras are commonly kept in
aquariums though they were more popular in the past; nowadays other dwarf
cichlids like apistos and rams have become the predominate favorites.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps is one
of several Laetacara species. All are small and make good aquarium inhabitants.
Several different species can be found at times through specialty organizations
like the <a href="http://www.dwarfcichlid.com/www.cichlid.org">American
Cichlid Association</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">This beautiful little
species was previously included in the genus Aequidens and is referred to as
such in older literature. The current genus name Laetacara was erected in 1986,
and is derived from the Latin word 'Laetus', meaning happy. This was settled
upon as the species it contains are often referred to as 'smiling' acaras, in
reference to the distinctive markings around their mouthparts. There are a
handful of undescribed species that have been tentatively placed in the genus.
L. sp. "Buckelkopf" and L. sp. "Orangeflossen", in
particular have achieved a fair degree of popularity in the hobby.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/kLigP9HzSuI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;">Characteristics</span></strong><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> of living
in the home aquarium</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 1:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
Selecting the Laetacara curviceps<b> </b>species
is worthy choice; the flag acara very peaceful compared to most cichlids; </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 2:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Flag
acara will not uproot plants and well planted aquarium will be greatly
appreciated and is necessary for this dwarf cichlid;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 3:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps<b> <i><u><span style="color: red;">adult male and female size</span></u></i></b>
adult male can measure 3.6" (9cm). Females are smaller, approximately
2.8" (7cm).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 4: <i><u><span style="color: red;">pH water range</span></u></i></span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Flag acara prefers slightly acidic conditions,
recommendation in the range 5.5-7.0.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 5: <i><u><span style="color: red;">Water hardness</span></u></i></span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> 2-10°dH</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 6:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Recommended
<b><i><u><span style="color: red;">water temperature</span></u></i></b> for Flag acara 24 - 29
°C ( 76 °F - 84 °F )</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 7:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
Add a number of broad leaved sword plants as well as a thicket of java moss and
some floating water sprite and they will soon be ready to spawn.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 8:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Dwarf
flag cichlid require slightly soft and acidic water but are sometimes tolerant
of different conditions however it is important to try to keep water conditions
as close to their natural habitat as they experience in the wild.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 9:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Flag
acaras are ideal for communities with other peaceful Amazon fish;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 10:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Flag
acara <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">tank mates</span></u></i></b> could be <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">tetras and apistos</span></u></i></b>. However, you must be
careful in <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">selecting Dwarf flag cichlids tank mates</span></u></i></b>
as they are <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">easily bullied</span></u></i></b> by more
aggressive fish, even those that are <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">much smaller</span></u></i></b>
<b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Remember Laetacara curviceps species is shy and easily
intimidated and breeding will be limited if at all.</span></u></i></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 11: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tank
size should be at least 30 gallon or larger the larger the aquarium the easier
to keep your tanks eco system balanced and clean conversely the smaller the
aquarium the more difficult it is to <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">maintain water
quality, water flow, pH levels, temperature and build-ups of nitrogenous waste</span></u></i></b>;
you will be required to indulged in 1000% more work for a 10 gallon or 38 liter
tank than you will need to do on 100 gallon or 379 liter tank. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/uYKZy8BRiFY?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps Diet and Food</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Flag acara do best on live
or frozen foods. </span></b></u></div>
</li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">earthworms chopped finely; </span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">blood worms;</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">brine shrimp live or frozen; </span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">white worms will bring out their full
coloration;</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">water fleas</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><i><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Avoid tubifex worms</span></u></i></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> they have been linked to bacteria that kill
cichlids.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lifespan Dwarf flag cichlids</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Anticipated and expected
lifespan is 2-4 years.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breeding Laetacara curviceps </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 1:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps<b>, </b>flag acaras will pair up
at a very young age as small as one and a half inches. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 2:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The
dwarf flag cichlid will flare at each other when pairing up and will later swim
together and breed and they usually will stay with their mate for the rest of
their lives. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 3:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps<b> </b>it never takes much to
trigger the breeding of flag acaras. Clear-cut beneficial living conditions are
more often enough;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 4:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
For the flag acaras warm and clean water is mandatory and plentiful live food is
necessary; </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Steps to Successful Eggs, Hatching, Wigglers, Free
Swimming Young <span> </span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 1: </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara
curviceps prefer their eggs are usually laid on a leaf or upright structure or
on a flat surface but they can also dig a hole and spawn directly on gravel or
sand.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 2:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Five
to seven days the eggs will hatch and become wiggler; this is when the hatchling
dwarf flag cichlid have hatched out of their eggs but are still attached to the
spawning surface feeding off their yolk sacs which are attached to their
stomachs. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 3:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Subsequently
when the five to seven days of being wigglers have past the fish have almost
completely consumed their yolk sacs and become free swimming. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 4:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps free swimming young is very small but they can normally eat newborn
brine shrimp as their first food and crushed flakes. Laetacara curviceps young
can also be fed liquid fry food which is available at most fish or pet stores
with <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">good care</span></u></i></b> and <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">frequent
water changes</span></u><span style="color: red;"> </span></i></b>you can <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">raise quite a few from a single spawn</span></u></i></b> and
sell the young.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps Parenting Skills</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 1:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Both
parents take turns guarding and protecting their eggs, wigglers, and fry. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 2:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps are dedicated as the parents however they sometimes become confused
and eat their own eggs. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 3:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Laetacara
curviceps<b> i</b>f they become fearful for
their brood's safety, Laetacara curviceps will pick up the fry in their mouth
and move them across the tank and some times the scoop up the eggs for no
apparent reason other than to take the eggs for a swim about.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 4:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The
flag acaras will take turns moving the fry, one standing guard over the already
moved young. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Step 5:</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The
fry are protected by their parents until they are moderately large and can fend
for themselves.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqxxRzzw1iMfnzgeKTJkwjH2DS7RtMpLceggBPPH_IjVy8XZubKcZsgpI6eg9ISqlxTYoQnTUYwReO2LDnAXmmDpkPpFEU70Gwm-fECiJgQVzZpI04vWsC1ZnDutoX43AvUkADbHML-I/s1600/images-Dwarf+Flag+Cichlid+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqxxRzzw1iMfnzgeKTJkwjH2DS7RtMpLceggBPPH_IjVy8XZubKcZsgpI6eg9ISqlxTYoQnTUYwReO2LDnAXmmDpkPpFEU70Gwm-fECiJgQVzZpI04vWsC1ZnDutoX43AvUkADbHML-I/s1600/images-Dwarf+Flag+Cichlid+2.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><b><i><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">From Wikipedia, the free
encyclopedia</span></u></i></b></div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Laetacara curviceps</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Scientific classification</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kingdom: <span> </span>Animalia</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phylum: <span> </span>Chordata</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Class: <span> </span>Actinopterygii</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Order: <span> </span>Perciformes</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Family: <span> </span>Cichlidae</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Subfamily: <span> </span>Cichlasomatinae</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Genus: <span> </span>Laetacara</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Species: <span> </span>L. curviceps</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: Arial;">Binomial name: Laetacara
curviceps</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-76467710308261758042012-06-02T11:50:00.001-07:002012-06-02T12:21:33.200-07:00Sitemap African Cichlids Fish<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-85246388602207409162012-06-02T10:45:00.000-07:002012-06-02T10:52:23.810-07:00Breeding Stomatepia pindu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA60uXnGaU3NHQJdGvXpXR2dcXjER4iPpo4n_OfsmKsV7gmdVLuo11kDnQIlheGuIG5Cp8HAqU9xxthpjnBB2SlUQyYvUvI_VLnV00U9hKoiOJxzJsK3Cus_h5AIu3HFgly6ZZpeNjCU/s1600/images-Stomatepia+pindu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA60uXnGaU3NHQJdGvXpXR2dcXjER4iPpo4n_OfsmKsV7gmdVLuo11kDnQIlheGuIG5Cp8HAqU9xxthpjnBB2SlUQyYvUvI_VLnV00U9hKoiOJxzJsK3Cus_h5AIu3HFgly6ZZpeNjCU/s400/images-Stomatepia+pindu.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u><b><span style="font-size: small;">Breeding <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pindu" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Pindu">Stomatepia pindu</a></span></b></u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Barombi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Mbo</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia pindu is a
mouthbrooding cichlid prevalent to Barombi Mbo, a lake located in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cameroon</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/West_Africa" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="West Africa">West
Africa</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cameroon</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> is famous for its rich collection of different
volcanoes that have been dormant or at least semi-dormant long enough to turn
into crater lakes. Barombi Mbo is such a crate lake, and due to its isolated
location, a lot of endemic species has evolved here. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">There are currently 11
described endemic cichlid species in the lake and more are expected to be found
once the lake becomes more thoroughly explored by fish experts. Barombi Mbo is
not a big lake; it’s only 2.5 km across. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The crater is however very
deep and the maximal water depth of the lake is 110 meters. Since there are no
major currents in the lake, only the top 40 meters contains enough oxygen to
sustain fish and other vertebrates. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Barombi Mbo Cichlids</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/H0605z8vQtw?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">All the cichlid species <b><u><span style="color: red;">in Barombi Mbo
are believed to hail from one single species that lived in the lake 10,000
years ago</span></u></b>. This species have now turned into no less than four
different genera: </span><b><u><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konia_%28fish%29" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Konia (fish)">Konia</a></span></span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">, Myaka, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pungu" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Pungu">Pungu</a> and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stomatepia" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Stomatepia">Stomatepia</a></span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you want to keep cichlids
from Barombi Mbo, you can for instance look for </span><b><u><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Konia</span></span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> eisentrauti, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myaka" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Myaka">Myaka myaka</a>, Pungu maclerani, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leka_keppe" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Leka keppe">Sarotherodon lohbergeri</a>,
Stomatepia mariae or Stomatepia pindu</span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia pindu is
naturally also a great alternative, and this article will focus on how
aquarists can breed this interesting species in their aquariums. Getting
Stomatepia pindu to spawn in <b><u><span style="color: red;">captivity is important</span></u></b>, because the <b><u><span style="color: red;">species is
listed as Critically Endangered in the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IUCN_Red_List" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="IUCN Red List">IUCN Red List of Threatened Species</a></span></u></b>. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;">The wild population should therefore not be
harvested for the aquarium market and only captive bred specimens should be
kept by hobby aquarists</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcqt_86wUwjoh5vfUzdiWTZpuGgUV8D-RTbsTdopxuEKI2LVJ9otxOMwBgXebkqIbIPYRv4koK_RvUwKFvHNkwSOCHVCAosIIzl_lD8IrR68NMs5GLLiId-0DPID-G_InTEUEo1pXgII/s1600/images-Stomatepia+mongo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcqt_86wUwjoh5vfUzdiWTZpuGgUV8D-RTbsTdopxuEKI2LVJ9otxOMwBgXebkqIbIPYRv4koK_RvUwKFvHNkwSOCHVCAosIIzl_lD8IrR68NMs5GLLiId-0DPID-G_InTEUEo1pXgII/s400/images-Stomatepia+mongo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia mongo</span></b></span></u></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breeding Stomatepia pindu</span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breed Stomatepia pindu;</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Keep the water high alkalinity A <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="PH">pH</a> of 8.2 and
relatively hard water is recommended and required.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Water temperature 25-28 degrees C range </span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Include good hiding spots like caves in the set
up and try to mimic the natural Stomatepia pindu habitat as closely as
possible.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">During the actual spawning, the couple will
simply leave their sheltered spots and spawn throughout the aquarium. </span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia pindu they do not dig out any nests,
clean a spawning site or similar. </span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia pindu female will release the eggs
and the male will promptly fertilize them. </span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia pindu female will pick up the eggs
and keep them protected inside her mouth.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">When the fry has been released by the female,
you can start feeding them powdered flake food, micro worms and newly
hatched brine shrimp.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">During the first few spawning, it is common for
the female to eat the eggs or spit out her offspring prematurely. Don’t
loose heart when this happens; it will get better after the initial spawning.</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia</span></u></b></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia</span></u></b></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</span></u></b></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia mongo</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Scientific classification</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kingdom: Animalia</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phylum: Chordata</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Class: Actinopterygii</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Order: Perciformes</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Family: Cichlidae</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Subfamily: Pseudocrenilabrinae</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tribe: Tilapiini</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Genus: Stomatepia</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stomatepia is a genus of
fishes in the cichlid family. <b><u><span style="color: red;">The three species are all endemic to </span></u></b></span><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Lake</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Barombi</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> Mbo in western </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Cameroon</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">. They are critically endangered because of pollution and
sedimentation due to human activities, and potentially also by large emissions
of carbon dioxide (CO2) from the lake's bottom (compare </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Lake</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Nyos</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">). </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Konia</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">, Myaka and Pungu are three other equally threatened genera of cichlids
that also are endemic to </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Lake</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> </span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Barombi</span></u></b><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;"> Mbo.</span></u></b></div>
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-25888510639538535142012-03-27T15:17:00.006-07:002013-06-16T13:27:08.005-07:00Labidochromis caeruleus, Malawi Cichlids-Electric yellow<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Labidochromis caeruleus, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-13.95,33.7&spn=10.0,10.0&q=-13.95,33.7%20%28Malawi%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Malawi">Malawi</a> cichlids-Electric yellow</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_yellow_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Electric yellow cichlid">Electric Yellow Cichlid</a> this fish is from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-12.1833333333,34.3666666667&spn=0.1,0.1&q=-12.1833333333,34.3666666667%20%28Lake%20Malawi%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Lake Malawi">Lake Malawi</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> are territorial by nature, and</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">their <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Aquarium">aquarium</a> should be aquascaped with plenty of rocks to provide caves and ample hiding places for female electric yellow lab.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Most of the fish contained in this category are mouth brooders and are relatively easy to breed. Appropriate levels of salt and trace elements should be added to the aquarium to promote proper health.</span></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Labidochromis_caeruleus" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Labidochromis caeruleus">Labidochromis caeruleus</a></span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The naturally occurring yellow morph of L. caeruleus is popular with aquarium hobbyists.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.wikipedia.org/" rel="homepage" target="_blank" title="Wikipedia">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</a></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Wikipedia Conservation status</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Least Concern (IUCN 3.1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_classification" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Biological classification">Scientific classification</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Kingdom: Animalia</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Phylum: Chordata</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Class: Actinopterygii</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Order: Perciformes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Family: Cichlidae</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Genus: Labidochromis</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Species: L. caeruleus</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Binomial name</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Labidochromis caeruleus</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Fryer, 1956</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8OqjpTocHuhEGfsKyh00KCNgJhSxakIgb4Tl5CwQuJKAmDO7CLrpUeIw3X82_X43xBcdJDT3tfanG7F68dqygJnGtk_u8dhsIK9CBWk-LWzGB06FCW_ewaAq_3rP2mPkcMD2J59b0Eo/s1600/images-Yellow+Labidochromis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8OqjpTocHuhEGfsKyh00KCNgJhSxakIgb4Tl5CwQuJKAmDO7CLrpUeIw3X82_X43xBcdJDT3tfanG7F68dqygJnGtk_u8dhsIK9CBWk-LWzGB06FCW_ewaAq_3rP2mPkcMD2J59b0Eo/s400/images-Yellow+Labidochromis.jpg" width="400" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Lake Malawian Cichlid-Yellow Lab</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Labidochromis caeruleus is a species of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Cichlid">cichlid fish</a> that is endemic to the central western coastal region of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_Africa" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="East Africa">East Africa</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. It is also known as lemon yellow lab, the blue streak hap, the electric yellow or yellow prince, depending on the colors morph. A naturally occurring yellow-colored variant from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nkhata</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Bay</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> is one of the most popular cichlids amongst aquarium hobbyists.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">This species is a <b><u><span style="color: red;">maternal mouthbrooder, meaning the eggs are carried, hatch, and develop in the mother’s mouth (buccal cavity), for about 28 days</span></u></b>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">These fish are ovophiles and the male will excavate a pit in the sand within his territory, in which the female lays the eggs; the female then takes these eggs into her mouth for fertilization.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">Electric yellows</span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> inhabit water with a <b><u><span style="color: red;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="PH">pH</a> between 7.8 and 8.9</span></u></b> and an <b><u><span style="color: red;">ideal temperature range of 23–26 °C (73.4–78.8 °F).</span></u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium care</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Electric yellows are peaceful compared to most other African cichlids. Despite this, like all cichlids from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, they are best kept in specialist cichlid aquariums with other <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbuna" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Mbuna">Mbuna</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">As with most cichlids, electric yellows should not be kept with freshwater community aquarium species such as Zebra Danios or <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_tetra" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Neon tetra">Neon Tetras</a>, they may nip the finnage of other species, and are not recommended for freshwater community aquariums because of the differences in the natural habitats between cichlids and other fish species. In an aquarium setting, their natural habitat of rocks and caves should be emulated. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Their diet should consist mostly of prepared cichlid pellets or flakes, supplemented with foods like krill, brine shrimp, and Spirulina flakes. Restrain from feeding these cichlids feeder goldfish, as they are likely carrying diseases that will cause harm to your cichlids</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallon</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Care Level: Easy</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Tank Conditions: 72-82°F; pH 7.8-8.5;</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">KH 10-15</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Max. Size In Aquarium: Up to 5"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Color Form: Yellow</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Temperament: Semi-aggressive</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Diet: Omnivore</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Compatibility: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Origin: Farm Raised, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Thailand</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Family: Cichlidae</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Electric Yellow African Cichlid is also known as the <b><u><span style="color: red;">Yellow Lab</span></u></b> or <b><u><span style="color: red;">Electric Yellow Lab</span></u></b> and gets its rather unusual name as a result of its brilliant yellow coloration, setting it apart from other cichlids. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Electric yellow</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Considered a new species and referred to commercially as <span class="title">Labidochromis caeruleus</span> or (Labidochromis tanganicae}, this cichlid lives in the waters of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> between the islands of Charo and Mbowe. <b><u><span style="color: red;">First displayed</span></u></b> at </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Burundi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> in the <b><u><span style="color: red;">early 1980's</span></u></b> and exported from there, the Electric Yellow was mistakenly believed to come from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Tanganyika</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Small immature <b><u><span style="color: red;">Electric Yellows</span></u></b> will often not show the vivid black striping on the fins until they mature and age. This cichlid is a peaceful and shy cichlid when compared to the temperament of other African Cichlids.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Electric Yellow Cichlids would be considered semi-aggressive in standard fresh water aquarium. The aquarium should include a sandy bottom, robust plants, caves, and rocks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The female Electric Yellow lays her eggs on the surface of rocks and then scoops them into her mouth where they brood for 18 days to 28 days before being released.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Electric Yellow Lab needs both meaty foods and greens such as brine shrimp, blood worms, and quality flake or pellet food containing vegetable matter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Approximate purchase size: will be small: 1" to 1-1/2" or medium: 2" to 3".</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: Arial;">L. caeruleus</span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> is understandably one of the more popular Cichlids in the hobby, always being in demand. This is due to its bright yellow coloring and its more docile temperament. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">This latter attribute makes this African Cichlid a compatible tank mate for virtually hundreds of other Lake Malawian Cichlids. Dearest to the hearts of many cichlidophiles, this mbuna gets housed with peacocks, feather fins, lamprologus, and of course other mbuna. Its omnivorous diet also makes it a versatile addition to just about any setup.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The "Electric Yellow" morph is just one of almost a dozen different morphologies seen in this species through out the lake. Labidochromis caeruleus ''Electric yellow'' female these other morphs go unnoticed, ignored, or forgotten by most hobbyists because of the omnipresent availability of the "Electric Yellow". </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">This color variant, while more rare in the lake, enjoys a distribution in the hobby that would easily out number the wild population by probably several hundred-fold. In fact, the "Electric Yellow" that is so popular today was only recently discovered (about 15 years ago). The discovery and subsequent public offering of this mbuna constitutes a very colorful tale.</span></div>
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<tr style="color: black;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">L. caeruleus</span></u>n</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">L. caeruleus was first identified in 1956 by G. Fryer. He described this fish as normally being white, with a black stripe through the dorsal fin, which would become a pale blue cast in breeding males (probably the morph from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nkhata Bay</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Believe it or not, this species was named caeruleus (meaning "blue" in Latin) for this very reason. It wasn't until around 1980 that this xanthic color variant was discovered by Stuart Grant and his divers. Grant et. al supposedly discovered a small colony of "Electric Yellows" at Lion's </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cove</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Labidochromis caeruleus ''Electric yellow'' male Stuart Grant only collected a few specimens, but refused to mass-collect and export them because of the population's small numbers, fearing that they would be pushed into extinction. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Then two Swedish collectors paying a visit to Stuart Grant noticed these beautiful, bright yellow mbuna in his tanks and requested that he collect and export some for them. The story is that when he declined, these two Swedes bribed some of his divers, who knew right where they were located. They then returned to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sweden</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> with two yellow labs, unbeknownst to Grant</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">From what I have read, these two yellow labs were then given as a gift to Pierre Brichard, who was very impressed by them. This is where the story gets really interesting: Brichard then took them back to his fishing operation in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Burundi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, along </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Tanganyika</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (of all places!) and bred some 20,000 fish, all related to that pair. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Quite amazing, and he did this in less than six years time. Then, in 1986 he made them available to the public, selling them for a hefty price from what I hear. Brichard ended up making a good dollar off that pair, while Stuart Grant on </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, who found the fish in the first place, was left holding the bag.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The story of the yellow lab doesn't end here, my friends. When Brichard put his yellow labs on the market in 1986, he called them "<b><u><span style="color: red;">Labidochromis tanganicae</span></u></b>", which caused immense confusion among hobbyists; was this a Tanganyikan Labidocrhomis species, or had Brichard collected this "new" Labidochromis from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and raised it in his ponds on </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake Tanganyika</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">? Eventually the issue was settled, but it did cause quite a commotion. And to think, that most yellow labs in the hobby all descended from that <b><u><span style="color: red;">single, illicit pair</span></u></b>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stuart did capture 22 fish later on but had a bit of a spill and only a few were left. These were given to Gary Kratchovil in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">San Antonio</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">TX</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. You'll see him offer F1 stock from time to time. Labidochromis caeruleus ''Electric yellow'' male, a couple of years ago, a friend of a friend bought some F1 yellow labs that had been pond-raised in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Africa</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Surprisingly, they were no better in quality than other good yellow labs that we have seen! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">There are plenty of bad strains out there - some with lots of black on the body and face. There is a morph with a whitish belly that is not as attractive. Don't be mislead into thinking that is a man-made strain. This is a naturally occurring morph that comes from Lion's Cove, along side the yellow lab we all know.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Electric yellow</span>-</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">yellow lab</span></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I mention this because I have heard a lot of people bag on yellow labs and breeders, suggesting that they have been over-bred. True, there are many breeders out there that are not patient or careful and put up for sale anything that hatches. BUT, a fish can be bred for hundreds of generations and still retain is beauty and fitness, as demonstrated by Pierre Brichard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">In fact, some of the most spectacular fish you will ever see - you know, the ones that win all the shows - have been line bred. The best looking progeny from each generation are pulled out and then bred to each other. Sometimes, the best genes aren't those that come from the lake (F0), but from a carefully maintained line. This isn't unethical, in my opinion. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">These people are simply selecting the more desirable traits and retaining them. If you find this reprehensible, next time you see a black-barred yellow lab next to a clean one, ask yourself which you'd rather own, or purchase for that matter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Labidochromis caeruleus ''Electric yellow'' male before concluding, let me say a few words about this fish's behavior in both the wild as well as captivity. L. caeruleus is an omnivore, feeding primarily upon insects, snails, and mollusks; however, in the aquarium, this fish can be fed a wide assortment of foods. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I personally recommend a good Spirulina based flake food with occasional frozen food supplements, or alternatively, The European Shrimp Mix; these insectivores wander through their rocky biotope, never lingering at any particular spot, and it seems they are tolerated in the territories of most other species.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">L. caeruleus prefer dark caves, but they are always careful to inspect the ceiling for prey. Likewise, in the aquarium, rock work, and particularly honeycomb limestone (aka holey rock), is appreciated. </span></div>
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<tr style="color: black;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">L. caeruleus</span></u></span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Notice in the picture above how this female is hiding from the male, anxious to induce her to spawn with him. The hole is too small for him, but not for her! This provides her an opportunity to escape his aggressive entreaties when she is not interested or ready to spawn and as already mentioned, L. caeruleus has a very wide distribution in the lake, with the yellow morph occurring between Charo and Lions Cove on the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> side of the lake, at a depth of 20 meters. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Broods usually number between 15 and 20 fry; with incubation periods lasting typically 28 days. Males tend to have much more black on their pelvic and anal fins, and are usually 1/3 larger than females at adulthood. The second picture in this article is of a female and the rest are of a male. For more distinguishing photographs, look here.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">References</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Kasembe (2005). Labidochromis caeruleus. 2006. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. IUCN 2006. www.iucnredlist.org. Retrieved on </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">12 May 2006</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">“Labidochromis caeruleus". Integrated Taxonomic Information System. Retrieved </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">June 22, 2005</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Labidochromis caeruleus on FishBase.</span></div>
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JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-57438777955506882232012-03-25T23:17:00.002-07:002012-03-27T16:22:47.084-07:00Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid; what are individual convict saying to rejected and selected mates?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzDX4KM7Uc8G5CMLwoqVTIL_7z41487DBF-bqiR2VyedsQwzk1i3lWnIP4qGEJbjHQJk68TXIjB6lhtixI-bHdDtBImsIn7X9HZ3VWbHPVthC4_fqFZkkwMG7QhEqTEXJnWd-kUNObd4/s1600/images-Convict+Cichlid+%28Amatitlania+nigrofasciata+%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzDX4KM7Uc8G5CMLwoqVTIL_7z41487DBF-bqiR2VyedsQwzk1i3lWnIP4qGEJbjHQJk68TXIjB6lhtixI-bHdDtBImsIn7X9HZ3VWbHPVthC4_fqFZkkwMG7QhEqTEXJnWd-kUNObd4/s400/images-Convict+Cichlid+%28Amatitlania+nigrofasciata+%29.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Abstract-Courtship in the monogamous convict cichlid;</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">NICK SANTANGELO</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biology" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Biology">Biological Sciences</a>, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.6071666667,-75.379&spn=0.01,0.01&q=40.6071666667,-75.379%20%28Lehigh%20University%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Lehigh University">Lehigh University</a>, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.6261111111,-75.3755555556&spn=0.1,0.1&q=40.6261111111,-75.3755555556%20%28Bethlehem%2C%20Pennsylvania%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="Bethlehem, Pennsylvania">Bethlehem, PA</a>, U.S.A.</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">(Received 22 January 2003; initial acceptance 20 June 2003;</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">final acceptance 11 February 2004; published online 11 November 2004; MS. number: A9528R)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><u><span style="color: red; font-family: AdvP9794;">ABSTRACT</span></u></b></span></div><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">I examined the relation between courtship and mate choice in convict cichlids by presenting females with the option of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Courtship" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Courtship">courting</a> and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spawn_%28biology%29" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Spawn (biology)">spawning</a> with one of two <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Male" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Male">males</a> that were isolated from each other. I quantified the amount of courtship performed by females towards males they selected as mates and males they rejected, and the amount of courtship performed by each male towards the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Female" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Female">female</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I measured courtship using two rates: (1) daily courtship rate, the total number of courtship events per number of days until spawning; and (2) contact courtship rate, the total number of courtship events per day per total time spent with a given individual. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Females showed similar contact courtship rates to each male, whereas both types of courtship rates between females and only rejected males were significantly and positively correlated. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Females showed a no significant tendency to select larger males. Females spent significantly more time with the males they selected and therefore females’ daily courtship rate towards selected males was significantly higher than that towards rejected males. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Although females showed a preference early in their search for the male they eventually selected, they continued to spend time with, and court, the rejected male until spawning with the selected male, indicating that females continuously assess males throughout their search. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Male courtship differed from female courtship in that while the daily courtship rates towards the females did not differ significantly between males, the contact courtship rate of rejected males was significantly higher than that of selected males. Thus, rejected males may court more because they know they are not the preferred male, or selected males may court less because they know they are the preferred male, or a combination of both.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">2004 <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.theassociationwebsite.com/" rel="homepage" target="_blank" title="The Association">The Association</a> for the Study of Animal Behaviour. Published by <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.elsevier.com/" rel="homepage" target="_blank" title="Elsevier">Elsevier</a> Ltd. <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_rights_reserved" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="All rights reserved">All rights reserved</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=d4b05ab6-b993-4d4b-a9dc-878c86f5c0c4" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-74820095582883160192012-03-08T18:52:00.006-08:002012-03-09T08:36:38.382-08:00Aquarium Fish, Convict Cichlid-Archocentrus Cichlidae<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSI36zQib6j5kt7X-P3EN19sgVhhZFj5K3SMXaXGI1UKS_UkFJE3_3mpUDn1x2bWxJxv4egfWpTBzmFjz41_fHw-rXla2ymrXt8Ako8JWPVykL9vYbvd652wo88uXZ4lBHtg5m3-IkK0/s1600/images-Convict+Cichlid+pair+with+their+babies34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSI36zQib6j5kt7X-P3EN19sgVhhZFj5K3SMXaXGI1UKS_UkFJE3_3mpUDn1x2bWxJxv4egfWpTBzmFjz41_fHw-rXla2ymrXt8Ako8JWPVykL9vYbvd652wo88uXZ4lBHtg5m3-IkK0/s400/images-Convict+Cichlid+pair+with+their+babies34.jpg" width="369" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Male and Female Convict Cichlids With Fry</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium fish, the most popular aquarium fish is Convict Cichlid gets its name from the distinctive </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">6 to nine</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> stripes that make them easily identifiable from any other <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropical_fish" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Tropical fish">tropical fish</a> and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convict_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Convict cichlid">Convict cichlid</a> markings resemble 19<sup>th</sup> century prison uniforms worn by the inmates.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict cichlid are carnivorous, herbivore this animal needs their greens </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict Cichlid</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> eat a variety of common <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium_fish_feed" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Aquarium fish feed">fish food</a> and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Plant">plants</a> and have no special dietary needs. Their habitat does not need anything special although they do prefer a natural colored gravel bottom with large rocks and caves like structures, such as clay flower pot with hole in the bottom and use floating aquatic <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Plant">plant</a> <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html">vegetation is always necessary</a> to help with dimming lights from your aquarium hood lights and set your hood lights with and inexpensive timer that will automatically shut off the lights after being on for eight hours remember this <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Cichlid">cichlid</a> thrives in low light.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plant in substructure Amazon swords,</span> <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Christmas moss</span></a> <span style="font-family: Arial;">and lie on top of your substructure moss balls further (never ever use plastic flower pot when the female lays her eggs she won’t know the difference between plastic or clay but her eggs will not adhere to the plastic surface) for the convict cichlid remember this <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Fish">fish</a> is a heavy digger and tearing up plants is a given but plants are necessary for the cichlid overall growth and development. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The Convict Cichlid is a tropical fish and prefers warm water that is in the range of 74 to 80 <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fahrenheit" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Fahrenheit">degrees Fahrenheit</a>, so the aquarium will require a good, reliable aquarium heater. Because the <b><u>convict cichlid nature to dig in the gravel, under gravel filters do not make the best filters for Convict Cichlids</u></b>. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">You should choose <b><i><u><span style="color: blue;">a good <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_%28aquarium%29" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Filter (aquarium)">canister filter</a></span></u></i></b> because your convict cichlid will be breeding; I use <b><i><u><span style="color: blue;">Aquaripure because it eliminates weekly water changes and keeps my aquariums nitrate balanced</span></u></i></b> so I’m able to maintain and breed all types of tropical fish. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/W1I4nD7oC_M/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/W1I4nD7oC_M&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/W1I4nD7oC_M&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><u><span style="font-family: Arial;">Originally I purchased Aquaripure because it reduced water changes, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="PH">pH</a> and disease problems</span></u></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> that were occurring in my tanks; the breeding of my fish just happen because their water conditions had became so much better the nitrate, pH were in balance; I know this because I test my water routinely.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Convict Cichlid Require Large Amount of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Aquarium">Aquarium</a> Real-estate as Their Own</span>. </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The biggest concern with these fish is that they are territorial. They will get along well with other fish of the same breed but there must be enough room for them in the aquarium. While these fish do not grow as large as other tropical fish, like Tiger Oscars, they still need their space; convicts will attack other fish if they are not kept in a large enough aquariums. It is not uncommon for them to attack other aggressive tropical fish including much larger fish like Oscars. These fish will fight and can inflict damage to each other if they are provided enough space to allow them to claim their own territories. Providing enough space for convict will also allow them to grow to their full size and they will be much healthier long term.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict Cichlids is one of the easiest Cichlids to breed and are a great choice for the first-time breeder; aquarium of at least <b><i><u><span style="color: blue;">60 gallons in size or 227.124707 liters</span></u></i></b>; if you provide convicts with a good diet and they will soon spawn with out any extra special care from the aquarium owner. The pair will chose a flat surface which can be a rock inside your tank or the top of their cave and females will lay hundreds of eggs. Both the male and female will protect the eggs and fry.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict Cichlids Are Most Studied Fish World Wide</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">With a few precautions, this <b><i><u>fresh water fish </u></i></b>the convict cichlid makes a great fish for anyone who wants to keep tropical fish. Many enthusiasts continue to keep them because their unique appearance and easy care makes them highly desirable. Once the basics of tropical fish care and handling is understood, some may choose to expand their set-up to include larger tropical fish like African Cichlids or Asian Cichlids or even <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seawater" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Seawater">Salt Water</a> Fish.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">What is the Best Convict Cichlid Food to Use? – Your Need to Understand Benefits Convict Cichlid Effective Diet</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict cichlid in their <b><i><u><span style="color: blue;">natural habitats, this species feeds on crustaceans, (definition crustaceans: class of mandibulate arthropods including: lobsters; crayfish; crabs; shrimps; woodlice; barnacles; decapods; water fleas;) small fish, insects, various worms, plants and algae;</span></u></i></b> further social status and associated stress can affect digestive function in convict cichlids. Providing the best cichlid food for your convict is one responsibility that an owner makes to his or her cichlids. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aside from providing the best environment, food is basically one of the most important needs of fish that must be given importance. It is the key to their survival. Most of the time, it is the essential tool for their growth, reproduction and appearances. Nevertheless, large number of cichlid species being sold today in the market has diverse feeding requirement. Thus, it is hard to identify what is the best food to give them. The food that you give them need not only satisfy their hunger. But also provide proper nutrition for them to use in their lives.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Good source of protein are live crickets, they eat insect larvae, so go buy a pack of frozen (not freeze dried) bloodworms. They will enjoy those. Floating cichlid pellets aren't a terribly good staple diet anyway because they tend to cause constipation if used alone. As well as wet frozen bloodworms, you could also try frozen krill, frozen brine shrimps and chopped seafood of various types (prawn, clam, and squid). Some people have success using freeze-dried foods but in over 35 years of fishkeeping I have yet to own a fish that enjoyed them! Hence I recommend the wet frozen foods you store in the freezer. All fishes go wild for these. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">So I'd buy a small package and try them out first if I were you I would also feed them live white worms and live brine shrimp. They usually contain multivitamins to promote good health. This has the tendency to boost their immune systems as well as help improve the digestive function. These are manufactured to make feeding these to cichlids easier and less stressful for you. The food supplement it contains make it considerable important nutritional source for your pets. Convict cichlid like salad this will be obtained by them munching on algae and aquatic plants. You need to feed them spirulina in flake form or frozen spirulina. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Algae are food that most herbivorous fish feed on. They can be fed, in the forms of wafers, balls or discs, to provide vegetable-enriched nutrients to your pets. Look for those that are infused with spirulina which is a food supplement widely known for as blue-green algae. They also have excellent nutritional and healing qualities. It is rich in protein, vitamin B-12, Beta Carotene, essential fatty acids and minerals. Herbivorous cichlids need this algae food for strength, stamina and longevity. These are fairly inexpensive, making it a practical food choice.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Processed dry fish flakes, pellets, granules or balls are common food for the fish. They are also the cheapest. In selecting the food to buy, you need to look for those that are packed with meat and vegetables. Select those that are with various nutrients needed by your pets. These nutrients include omega-3 fatty acids for additional energy and fast growth as well as vitamin C for good health. Color enhancers are also added to bring about better coloration to your fish. Others contain different nutrients that add to the needed nourishments.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Organic foods that are fresh and live are important to the health of your fish they are great sources of protein. However do not feed your convicts live feeder fish in addition, be cautious over the live food you buy because they are not always clean or disease free. I use to feed my sale water ells live feeders and my ells would die in a year or two, when I stopped feeding live feeders my ells are now nine years old. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The best cichlid food should not only diminish the cichlid’s cravings; it needs to provide the proper nutrients that are necessary for them to prolong their health and life. Most of the time, feeding is treated as an obligation; but since this is an integral part of the living thing’s existence, it is best to be given utmost consideration and thought; after all, that is a call to responsible ownership of pets.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxM8c4jRVczqugHJOROBjC_-V9dVnFx2oxZ7XTXCwWDFIXF_J5v1dhh0SOeyN7F6rRxtEoPyO_3KrQQ_HzDqoCkQFijLO2QNlAEIjsMgak68mHbINPT72oGB1l_x-UPBNdXUYG20ld_TY/s1600/images-Convict+Cichlid+-+Proper+Care,+Breeding,.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxM8c4jRVczqugHJOROBjC_-V9dVnFx2oxZ7XTXCwWDFIXF_J5v1dhh0SOeyN7F6rRxtEoPyO_3KrQQ_HzDqoCkQFijLO2QNlAEIjsMgak68mHbINPT72oGB1l_x-UPBNdXUYG20ld_TY/s400/images-Convict+Cichlid+-+Proper+Care,+Breeding,.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Monogamous Convict Cichlids Spanning Male and Female Cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Scientific Classification</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kingdom: Animalia</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phylum: Chordata</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Class: Actinopterygii</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Order: Perciformes</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Family: Cichlidae</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Subfamily: Cichlasomatinae</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Genus: Archocentrus</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Archocentrus is a small genus of cichlid fishes from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. The genus currently contains 3 species It formerly included 7 of the species now included in the genus Cryptoheros, as well as the convict cichlid, now included in the genus Amatitlania. The Rainbow Cichlid, Archocentrus multispinosus, was formerly included in the genus Herotilapia. A 2008 study led by Oldrich Rican suggested that the Rainbow Cichlid is actually more closely related to the Jack Dempsey (genus Rocio) and the cichlids of the genus Astatheros than to the other Archocentrus cichlids, and thus under consideration to be moved back to the genus Herotilapia</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXiv8YQK6-aMvX3RxHdYScru2hyVGZo2TpIMrYkDEPnZIkh-o56ZuGacj4ERUK7S9VZjjutDepdr8ue9OodrBXxNU_TE01rQbMXLisdtaaL3Eanr3uW7qUxaB1o5snLdsIfpQlZ_YVHE/s1600/images-convict+Cichlid+-caves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXiv8YQK6-aMvX3RxHdYScru2hyVGZo2TpIMrYkDEPnZIkh-o56ZuGacj4ERUK7S9VZjjutDepdr8ue9OodrBXxNU_TE01rQbMXLisdtaaL3Eanr3uW7qUxaB1o5snLdsIfpQlZ_YVHE/s400/images-convict+Cichlid+-caves.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Convict Cichlids in Caves</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Species</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Archocentrus centrarchus Gill, 1877</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Rainbow cichlid, Archocentrus multispinosus, Günther, 1867</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Archocentrus spinosissimus Vaillant & Pellegrin, 1902</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Taxonomy</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Albert Günther originally described the species in 1867 after Frederick DuCane Godman and Osbert Salvin collected specimens in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4] In 2007, the species was moved from the genus Archocentrus to a new genus, Amatitlania based on Juan Schmitter-Soto's study of Archocentus species. However, a 2008 study led by Oldrich Rican proposed moving the species in Cryptoheros and Amatitlania, including Amatitlania nigrofasciata into the genus Hypsophrys.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpgFKk39s6iREg1Die3CLu6c29EBjNuUVbyyyb40tuyhkyVnUlJYeSzs0T7FNctoIeD2y95vz6AX4Wi8arr8oe3YMAXFyAk5L7F0RBQlm5j688OqYoPhkQShS7omcO8myCE3oh_2eRR8/s1600/images-+Female+Central+American+Convict+Cichlid..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpgFKk39s6iREg1Die3CLu6c29EBjNuUVbyyyb40tuyhkyVnUlJYeSzs0T7FNctoIeD2y95vz6AX4Wi8arr8oe3YMAXFyAk5L7F0RBQlm5j688OqYoPhkQShS7omcO8myCE3oh_2eRR8/s400/images-+Female+Central+American+Convict+Cichlid..jpg" width="356" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Female Convict Cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The convict cichlid displays significant color variation across its range. Some of these regional variants are now considered different species In the cichlid-keeping hobby, Rusty Wessel collected one such fish Amatitlania siquia "Honduran Red Point" from a stream in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Honduras</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. The Honduran Red Point Convict ranges from Atlantic Honduras south to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Costa Rica</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Other new species formerly included in A. nigrofasciata are:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Amatitlania coatepeque, from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lake</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Coatepeque</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">El Salvador</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, and</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Amatitlania kanna, from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Panama</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">'s Atlantic coast</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The type species, A. nigrofasciata, which used to cover all these species, is restricted to the northern population ranging from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">El Salvador</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Guatemala</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> on the Pacific coast and from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Honduras</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Guatemala</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> on the Atlantic coast</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">A number of synonyms exist for this species including: Archocentrus nigrofasciatus, Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum, Cryptoheros nigrofasciatus and Heros nigrofasciatus.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Etymology</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The common name convict cichlid is, like the species name, derived from the vertical black stripes on the fishes body and their similarity to the striped prison uniforms of British convicts. Similarly, the species epithet nigrofasciatus literally means black-striped.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Description</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The wild-type of the species has 8–9 black vertical bars on a blue-grey body, along with a dark blotch on the operculum. Juvenile convict cichlids are monomorphic until they reach sexual maturity. Unusually for fish, the female is more highly colored. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Convict Cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The male is mostly gray with light black stripes along the body. Males are larger than females, and they have more pointed ventral, dorsal and anal fins which often extend into filaments. In addition, older males frequently develop vestigial fatty lumps on their foreheads. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">She has more intense black bands across the body, and pink to orange colouration in the ventral region and on the dorsal fin. The average standard length of mature males in the wild ranged from 6.3–6.6 centimeters, while breeding–sized females ranged from 4.2–5.5 centimeters. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The maximum standard length has been reported to be 10 centimeters, with total length near 12 centimeters (4.7 in). Body weight has been reported to range from 34–36 grams (1.2–1.3 oz). </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Selective breeding has resulted in a leucistic strain of convict cichlids, in which the dark barring of the wild type is absent. These are also known as white convicts, pink convicts, gold convicts and A. nigrofasciata "Kongo",. The leucistic colouration is caused by a mutation in an autosomal gene and is recessively inherited</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Range and habitat</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">A female convict cichlid caught on a hook and line in the heated outflow of a coal power plant in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Victoria</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Australia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict cichlids are endemic to the lakes and streams of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. In particular, the species occurs along the eastern coast of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Guatemala</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Costa Rica</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, and on the western coast from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Honduras</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Panama</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Convict cichlids prefer moving water nd are most frequently found in habitats with cover in the form of rocks or sunken branches. Convict cichlids are relatively tolerant of cool water, an ability which has allowed the species to colonies volcanic lakes at elevations of 1,500 meters (4,900 ft). At four natural habitats of the convict cichlid in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Costa Rica</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, the pH was found to range from 6.6–7.8, while GH ranged from 63 to 77 ppm CaCO3. The daily water temperature ranged from 26–29 °C (79–84 °F).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Feral populations</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The species also occurs outside its natural range in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Australia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">: in the warm effluent of power stations in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Victoria</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, and in tropical Queensland.[21] In addition to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Australia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, the species has been introduced to </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Réunion</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Japan</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mexico</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Taiwan</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">USA</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Feeding</span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Close up of a male convict cichlid showing teeth</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">In natural habitats, the species feeds on crustaceans, small fish, insects, various worms, plants and algae. Social status and associated stress can affect digestive function in convict cichlids.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Reproduction</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The species can reach sexual maturity at as young as 16 weeks, though sexual maturity more commonly occurs at 6 months. Sexually mature convicts form monogamous pairs and spawn in caves or crevices. In the wild, the fish excavate caves by moving earth from underneath large stones. Females lay the eggs on the upper or side surfaces of the cave to which they adhere.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breeding</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Like most cichlids, convicts brood (exhibit parental care of) both eggs and free-swimming fry.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">After fertilization the eggs hatch after approximately 72 hours. During that time, the parents expel intruders and potential egg predators from around the nest. They also fan the eggs, moving water with their fins over the clutch to bring oxygen to the eggs. They fan the eggs both day and night, using their sense of smell to recognize the presence of the eggs in the dark, and keeping their pelvic fins in contact with the eggs to remain at the right distance for fanning. The parents also recognize each other via their sense of smell, and sniff out and react to the presence of potential predators.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VXuvdIBhXjdl8ySjAbUZTLQ5c9VPgBqPz8KKPJBwG69z-YvAyyHjYsl28whSpCBuTpL2aQLbfgWhqg6_BYDn2E1N5AG7q1wrzOTiXs5jmMmQh5Fqj1I-gh8eKJKzOm5SNkqghHv6x4o/s1600/images-female+convict+with+fry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VXuvdIBhXjdl8ySjAbUZTLQ5c9VPgBqPz8KKPJBwG69z-YvAyyHjYsl28whSpCBuTpL2aQLbfgWhqg6_BYDn2E1N5AG7q1wrzOTiXs5jmMmQh5Fqj1I-gh8eKJKzOm5SNkqghHv6x4o/s400/images-female+convict+with+fry.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Wild Caught Female Convict Cichlid w/Fry</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">After hatching, a further 72 hours is required for the larvae to absorb their yolk sacs and develop their fins prior to becoming free-swimming fry. While in this free swimming stage, fry forage during daylight in a dense school and return to the cave or crevice for the night. Like other cichlids, the parents also retrieve their young just before dark, sucking up three or four fry at a time into their mouth, swimming back to the nest, and spitting the young into it. The parents do this in anticipation of night arrival, using an internal time sense to know that night is approaching, as shown by laboratory experiments in which convict cichlids continued to retrieve even before nights that were not preceded by any signal such as dim light. During the night, the fry bunch up at the bottom of the cave or nest, where the parents fan them.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Both parents remain involved in guarding the fry from brood predators and engage in behaviors to assist feeding such as moving leaves or fin digging. Brood care of eggs, larvae and free-swimming juveniles in the wild can last 4–6 weeks and occurs only once per season for the majority of females. In contrast, females in aquariums are known to breed many times per year with short intervals of 12–13 days between broods, as long as suitable rocks or similar surfaces are available for them to lay their eggs on,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">In captivity, breeding pairs of convict cichlids have been demonstrated to adopt similarly aged fry from other parents. In other cichlids it has been suggested this behavior may reduce predation on the fry belonging to the adoptive parents, through a dilution effect.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquarium care</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Convict cichlids are easily maintained and bred in aquaria. Decorate the aquarium to mimic the natural environment and include rocks and artificial caves for breeding. The species is an unfussy omnivore and most types of prepared fish foods are readily accepted. The species also consumes aquatic plants. Convict cichlids are aggressively territorial during breeding and pairs are best kept alone. Brood care is reduced in aquarium strains. Due to the species' tendency to dig, external filtration is superior to undergravel filter systems. Its relatively small size, along with ease of keeping and breeding, make the convict an ideal cichlid for beginners and advanced aquarists alike interested in observing pair bonds and brood care.</span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">References</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ "Convict and Jack Dempsey placed in new genera". Archived from the original on 2007-12-28. Retrieved 2008-06-27.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ "Archocentrus - Fish Base". Retrieved 2008-10-07.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Schmitter-Soto, J. (2007). Zootaxa: A systematic revision of the genus Archocentrus (Perciformes:Cichlidae), with a description of two new Genera and six new species. Magnolia Press. p. 43. ISBN 978-1-86977-160-7.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Heijns, W. (July 2009). "Central American heroine cichlids, a phylogenetic approach". Cichlid News. pp. 14–22.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ "Archocentrus centrarchus - Fish Base". Retrieved 2008-10-07.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ "Archocentrus multispinosus - Fish Base". Retrieved 2008-10-07.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ "Archocentrus spinosissimus - Fish Base". Retrieved 2008-10-07.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d e f g h Froese, Rainer, and Daniel Pauly, eds. (2006). "Archocentrus nigrofasciatus" in FishBase. April 2006 version.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ ITIS Report. "Archocentrus nigrofasciatus". Integrated Taxonomic Information System. Retrieved 2007-03-30.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Robins CR, Bailey RM, Bond CE, Brooker JR, Lachner EA, Lea RN, Scott WB (1991) World fishes important to North Americans. Exclusive of species from the continental waters of the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">United States</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Canada</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Am. Fish. Soc. Spec. Publ. 21: p. 243.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Günther A (1866) On the fishes of the states of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, founded upon specimens collected in fresh and marine waters of various parts of that country by Messrs. Salvin and Godman and Capt. J. M. Dow. Proc. Zool. Soc. Lond. 600–604.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d "Convict and Jack Dempsey placed in new genera". Archived from the original on </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">December 28, 2007</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Retrieved 2008-06-27.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Heijns, W. (July 2009). "Central American heroine cichlids, a phylogenetic approach". Cichlid News. pp. 14–22.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Heijns W (2001) A convict from the Volcano Cichlid Room Companion Ed. Juan Miguel Artigas Azas.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Azas JMA (2002) Cryptoheros, The Small Central American Cichlids Cichlid Room Companion Ed. Juan Miguel Artigas Azas.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Wessel R (2006) The Honduran Red Point: A beautiful blue convict-type species from </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Honduras</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Tropical Fish Hobbyist 54: 104–106.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Borstein R (2005) Archocentrus sp. "Honduran Red Point" Greater </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Chicago</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Cichlid Association</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors.. "Archocentrus nigrofasciatus, synonyms". FishBase. Retrieved 2007-03-30.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b Juan Miguel Artigas Azas. "Cryptoheros nigrofasciatus (Günther, 1867)". The Cichlid Room Companion. Retrieved 2007-03-30.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Innes, William (1966). Exotic Aquarium Fishes. p. 395.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d e f g Wisenden BD (1995) Reproductive behavior of free-ranging convict cichlids, Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum Environmental Biology of Fishes 43: 121–134.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d e f Riehl, Rüdiger. Editor.; Baensch, HA (1996. 5th Edn.). Aquarium Atlas. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Germany</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">: Tetra Press. ISBN 3-88244-050-3.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d e Sands D (1994) A fishkeepers guide to Central American cichlids. Tetra Press. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Belgium</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> pg 59–60.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Kullander, S.O., 2003. Cichlidae (Cichlids). p. 605-654. In: R.E. Reis, S.O. Kullander and C.J. Ferraris, Jr. (eds.) Checklist of the Freshwater Fishes of South and </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Central America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Porto Alegre</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">: EDIPUCRS, Brasil.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Itzkovich J, Rothbard S, Hulata G (1981) Inheritance of pink body colouration in cichlasoma nigrofasciatum Günther (Pisces, Cichlidae). Genetica 55: 15–16.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Conkel, D (1993) Cichlids of North and Central America T.F.H. Publications, Inc., </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">USA</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ a b c d Loiselle, Paul V. (1995). The Cichlid Aquarium. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Germany</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">: Tetra Press. ISBN 1-56465-146-0.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Koehn JD, MacKenzie RF (2004) Priority management actions for alien freshwater fish species in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Australia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">New Zealand</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research 38: 457–472.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; no text was provided for refs named http:.2F.2Ftw.news.yahoo.com.2F.25E4.25B9.259D.25E9.2596.2593.25E9.25AD.259A.25E5.25A3.2593.25E5.25A2.2583-.25E6.2581.2590.25E6.2588.2590.25E6.2597.25A5.25E6.259C.2588.25E6.25BD.25AD.25E6.259C.2580.25E5.25BC.25B7.25E5.258B.25A2.25E5.25A4.2596.25E4.25BE.2586.25E7.25A8.25AE-203525543.html; see Help:Cite errors/Cite error references no text</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Yamamoto MN, Tagawa AW (2000) </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hawai'i</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">'s native and exotic freshwater animals. Mutual Publishing, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Honolulu</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. p. 200</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Page LM, Burr BM (1991) A field guide to freshwater fishes of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">North America</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> north of </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mexico</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Houghton Mifflin Company, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Boston</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. p. 432</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Earley RL, Blumer LS, Grober MS (2004) The gall of subordination: changes in gall bladder function associated with social stress Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences 271: 7–13.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Keenleyside MHA (1991) Parental Care. In: Cichlid Fishes: behavior, ecology and evolution Chapman and Hall, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">London</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. p. 191-208.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Reebs, S.G., and Colgan, P.W., 1991, Nocturnal care of eggs and circadian rhythms of fanning activity in two normally diurnal cichlid fishes, Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum and Herotilapia multispinosa, Animal Behavior 41: 303–311</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Reebs, S.G., and Colgan, P.W., 1992, Proximal cues for nocturnal egg care in convict cichlids, Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum, Animal Behavior 43: 209–214.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Reebs, S.G., 1994, Nocturnal mate recognition and nest guarding by female convict cichlids (Pisces, Cichlidae: Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum), Ethology 96: 303–312</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Noakes DLG (1991) Ontogeny of behavior in cichlids. In: Cichlid Fishes: behavior, ecology and evolution Chapman and Hall, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">London</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. p. 209-224.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Wisenden BD (1994) Factors affecting male mate desertion in the bi parental cichlid fish (Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum) in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Costa Rica</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. Behavioral Ecology 5: 439–447.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Reebs, S.G., 1994, The anticipation of night by fry-retrieving convict cichlids, Animal Behavior 48: 89–95.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Lavery, R.J., and Reebs, S.G., 1994, Effect of mate removal on current and subsequent parental care in the convict cichlid (Pisces: Cichlidae), Ethology 97: 265–277.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Wisenden DB (1993) Female convict cichlids adjust gonadal investment in current reproduction in response to relative risk of brood predation. Canadian Journal of Zoology 71: 252–256.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Espmark Y, Knudsen T (2001) Intraspecific brood adoption in the convict cichlid with respect to fry of two color morphs Journal of Fish Biology 59: 504–514.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Nelson CTJ, Elwood RW (1997) Parental state and offspring recognition in the bi parental cichlid fish Pelvicachromis pulcher. Animal Behavior 54: 803–809.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> ^ Mills D, Vevers G (1989) The Tetra encyclopedia of freshwater tropical aquarium fishes. Tetra Press, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">New Jersey</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div></div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=9618fdf5-3085-4e6d-83e3-3fc448e88cac" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-59373993910949193692012-02-26T17:58:00.009-08:002018-03-27T08:59:06.673-07:00Wolf cichlid -parachromis, dovii, guapote, rainbow bass,<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Wolf Cichlid- <span style="font-family: "arial";"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parachromis" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Parachromis">parachromis,</a> dovii</span></b></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parachromis_dovii" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Parachromis dovii">Wolf Cichlid</a> a <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Fish">fish</a> by any other name this fish is called <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parachromis" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Parachromis">parachromis</a> dovii, Dovii, Parachromis, Guapote, Leopard Cichlid or sport fishermen refer to this cichlid as Rainbow Bass or the Gold Bass. The name Dovii is paradoxical regarding this fish as it name implies means <b><i><u>peace dove</u></i></b> the Wolf Cichlid is not peaceful fish. The Wolf is playful, curious, and intelligent; this is one of the few cichlids that can be trained to be hand fed. In the areas where this cichlid is naturally occurring they are usually referred to as guapote (guapote blanco) or lagunero in Spanish and as rainbow or gold bass in <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_language" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="English language">English speaking</a> regions all these names are describing just one fish and that is the wolf cichlid or in the US they are usually refereed to as dovii.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The wolf cichlid is one of the largest growing of the cichlidae family; The dovii is somewhat similar in appearance to the jaguar cichlid (<a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parachromis_managuensis" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Parachromis managuensis">Parachromis managuensis</a>), however the dovii is larger and stockier, and a dark, solid, unbroken band runs horizontally thought the flank of the fish; in contrast jaguar cichlid possesses a series of large spots along the flank. Base color of the Wolf cichlid is gold, and well-kept specimens will take on a beautiful lavender color. They have random black spots all over their body and the young juveniles are gold with a black horizontal stripe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Big and mean best describes this wolf cichlid. Dovii are known for their aggression, so tank mates need to compete with their temperament and size. It is recommended that these fish are kept in a large species tank with no tank mates to avoid issues. They will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth, and will not hesitate to beat or kill more docile tank mates.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Feed pellets, frozen foods like silversides and krill, and earthworms on occasion. This fish is a substrate <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spawn_%28biology%29" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Spawn (biology)">spawners</a>. Wolf <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Cichlid">Cichlids</a> are widely regarded as one of the most vicious cichlids available to aquarists; though many specimens may not live up to this reputation they are still considered wolf cichlid as extremely, strong and powerful cichlid with winning personality. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Breeding can be achieved with very little effort and no specific requirements are needed for breeding purposes. As long as <b><u>water conditions</u></b> are <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html">maintained at a desirable high quality</a>, I use nitrates denitrator freshwater filtering systems in my opinion this type of filter is worth every penny what we as hobbyists fail to mention is the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algae_scrubber" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Algae scrubber">nitrate filter</a> will greatly reduce the need for water changes in your fish tanks, saving you time, money, and reducing the stress on your Wolf Cichlids a <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breeding_pair" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Breeding pair">breeding pair</a> of such fish will readily spawn. The aquarium must be large 250 minimum to 500 gallon for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of its genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that produce large amounts of body waste. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial";">dovii Breeding/Reproduction</span></b></span><span style="font-family: "arial";"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid has been bred in captivity. They are substrate spawners and both parents will care for the young. When a pair is formed out of a group, the male should not be too hard on the female. Often times a male will excessively beat up on the female. In this case a divider with the bottom open just large enough to let the eggs be fertilized would be needed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The female will lay over 1,000 of eggs that hatch in 5 days. The fry are free swimming in a few more days. The young can eat baby brine and other meaty preparations, and offer larger sized foods as they grow. Sort the fry by size as they grow as well, or the larger siblings will eat the smaller ones. The Wolf Cichlid is <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sexual_maturity" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Sexual maturity">sexually mature</a> at 10 to 14 months and will spawn about every 4 weeks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">To enhance the likelihood of acquiring a breeding pair, purchase several healthy very young and active juveniles at a young age (between 1” -2”) and grow these specimens until sexual maturity. Generally, you should have at least two breeding pairs. These fish will noticeably become more aggressive and territorial, Remove all other fish at this point and keep the newly formed breeding pair separate. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">When a breeding pair had been successfully established, the male will begin to court the female by displaying his erect finnage to the female as he tries to impress her in an attempt for her to accept his mating invitation. The pair will begin to clean a flat surface if the female is responsive of the male's previous <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mating" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Mating">courting behavior</a>. The female will then lay approximately 1000 - 2000 orange colored eggs which will then be fertilized by the male wolf cichlid. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The eggs will be vigorously guarded by both Dovii, parents and the amount of parental care is always shown to the eggs as well as the fry. When the eggs 'hatch' after approximately 5 -7 days as you can see in the video, both parents fan the eggs, the eggs should hatch after about 4 days into what we call "wrigglers"; the offspring (known as wrigglers in this stage in development) wrigglers cannot swim, consequently the name, and the wigglers do not need to be fed, because each wriggler has a yolk sac attached to their stomach and the wigglers feed off their yolk sack. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The wriggler stage lasts approximately 5 days, after which the fry become free swimming. Further it is not uncommon for one or both wolf parents will often transport the young into pre dug pits and are guarded the pit and again dig another pit and move the young again. Once the fry only become free swimming you will need to start feeding the fry; the best thing to feed the fry is frozen baby brine shrimp and quality high protein pellets ground to fine powder. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The fry will begin to swim in approximately 7 days and should be fed with baby brine shrimp or alike. If you would like to rear these fry, they should be removed at this point as they will later be consumed by both parents as the female becomes due to spawn once more. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp until the stage where they are large enough to consume white worm, daphnia and other live foods.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">When you purchase your young wolf fish in an attempt to acquire a breeding pair, try to buy fish from different sources. There is a high probability that when buying fish from the same source, fish will be from the same parents (siblings). Breeding fish in this manner may form offspring with genetic disorders usually associated with interbreeding; always buy your young wolf fish are of a similar size.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial";">dovii Aquarium</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The aquarium should be large (250 gallons or 947.35295 liters or 500 gallons or 1892.7059 liters) for a breeding pair of wolf cichlids. As with all members of this genus, these fish are large and heavily built cichlids that are aggressive and highly territorial. Decor could be kept to a minimum in such an aquarium and sand or fine gravel should be used as the main substrate. If you desire some landscaping either glue rock together or use a very large flower pots placed on it side if you want to include caves for female Dovii; for the substrate use many pieces of flat slate or rock should also be included for the female to lay her eggs upon; remember this fish is a digger and prefers to rearrange their habit. Include large moss balls or ping pond balls this is highly intelligent fish and suffer from extreme curiosity and boredom always leads to aggression.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial";">wolf cichlid Care and Feeding</span></b></span><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The wolf cichlid or dovii is a carnivore, a predator that feeds on primarily other smaller fish, along with crustaceans and insects in the wild. In the aquarium they can have a pellet base foods but must be supplemented with fish, shrimp, earthworms, and other meaty foods; they prefer floating foods according to one fish keeper. Consider only feeding them frozen, since live fish can carry disease, unless you are willing to grow a ton of feeders on your own. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Keep in mind that giving them live foods makes them much more aggressive naturally. Fed them no more than 3 times a day and feed them only enough food they can eat in 5 minutes. Then do not feed them for 1.5 to 2 days once every other week this is the same as in the wild. Further this will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. All fish require vitamins and supplements added to their foods.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Remember this is a big cichlid that requires a lot of free swimming space, a tank of over 120 gallons is suggested for their long term care. Ideally 150 gallons for a female and 200 gallons for a male should be provided and over 300 gallons if you attempt to breed them. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. The female wolf cichlid requires and needs many hiding places to protect herself from the male wolf cichlid. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Provide lots of rocks, bog wood and tunnels to dig under with sandy or fine gravel substrate. Put large heavy rocks on the glass, not on the substrate because they dig under everything and falling rocks can crack your glass aquarium and scratch your acrylic tank. Glue desired rock formations together or your Wolf Cichlid will have other plans for your perfectly placed rock tower, just leave some rocks and stuff for them to move that where the large moss ball and ping pong balls come in; Decorating with tough plants is also possible, though strong light levels can cause algae growth. Do water changes of Water changes of 20 - 40% up to twice a week, give or take depending on your water quality.</span></div>
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<tr height="17"> <td class="xl24" height="17" style="height: 12.75pt; width: 91pt;" width="121"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>dovii Diet </b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The Parachromis are not fussy eaters and will readily accept most food substances offered. Cichlid pellets are a good daily food. Diet should be varied however. Offer a variety of insect, including white worms, crickets (for larger specimens). Chopped meat can also be offered along with frozen finely chopped chicken no bones, frozen halibut, frozen salmon, frozen krill, <a href="http://www.hikariusa.com/mak%20or%20copy%20to%20your%20browser">small/medium silkworms are for medium and large aquarium fish of all types of cichlids excellent for Oscars, Cichlids,</a> Large Angelfish, Barbs and many more; according to many animal experts, Silkworms are one of the healthiest insects you can feed your fish and other pets. Silkworms are low in fat content, are a high source of Calcium, Protein, Iron, Magnesium, Sodium and Vitamins B1, B2, and B3. Silkworms; do provide the essential variety required to maintain healthy cichlids. <b><i><u>but never beef heart (due to its high fat content)</u></i></b> along with prawn, wheat germ, Hikari Tropical Food Sticks and high quality pellet carnivore food.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Supplement your meat-eating fish's diet with this complete nutritional package. Carnivore diets generally lack a lot of necessary elements. Food Sticks fill in the remaining gaps by providing a full assortment of essential vitamins and minerals to promote health and enhance coloration and (/frozen) Silversides frozen fish. Frozen fish is a much preferred method of feeding fish as many "feeder fish" carry the risk of the introducing disease into your aquarium, possibly harming your breeding wolf cichlid. I can speak to this I feed my Moray Ells and my Ribbon Ells feeder fish and approximately year they would die when I stopped feeding (feeder fish) to my ells and only frozen fish I’m happy to say they are doing fine and are now approximately eight year old. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Sexing</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Females tend to be smaller than males but in some cases can grow just as big or as bigger than their spawn mates. The gold/yellow coloration is more prominent in the females, especially during courtship, breeding and raising fry. The male's dorsal and ventral fins are also much more elongated than the female's. Males tend to have more spots and will take on a beautiful lavender color comport varies on individual females or males and situations but aggression is usually to be expected during courtship and spawning periods.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Water chemistry</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">pH</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> of 7.0 - 8.0 preferably; </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Temperature</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> of 23.9-27.8°C (75 -82 °F)</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Water Hardness</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> 15-20 °d</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Stocking Ratio</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">1:1 M:F</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Size of Wolf Cichlid</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">65-72 cm (25.6-30.") This fish grows to a length of 30" (72 cm).</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Diet</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Carnivore</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Pellet Foods</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Flake Foods</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Live Food</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Life Span Wolf Cichlid</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">8-12 years</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Wild Wolf Cichlid Habitat</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Central America</span><span style="font-family: "arial";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Family</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Cichlidae</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Parachromis dovii</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Parachromis dovii</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Scientific classification</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Kingdom: Animalia</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Phylum: Chordata</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Class: Actinopterygii</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Order: Perciformes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Family: Cichlidae</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Subfamily: Cichlasomatinae</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Genus: Parachromis</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Species: P. dovii</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Binomial name</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Parachromis dovii</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">(Günther, 1864)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Infection/Diseases </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The dovii cichlids are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for 3 days. If that does not cure the Ich, then the fish needs to be treated with copper (remove any water conditioners). Several copper based fish medications are available for Ich. Copper use must be kept within the proper levels, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s suggestions. A copper test can be used to keep the proper levels. You can also combine increasing the temperature with an Ich medication treatment. Intestinal disease can be treated with metronidazol.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Wolf Cichlid Water Region:</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> Top, Middle or Bottom: These fish will swim in the middle areas of the aquarium.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Social Behaviors:</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> This is not a community fish, it is a predator that is territorial and aggressive and even more aggressive when spawning. The Wolf Cichlid can be kept alone, or as a mated pair. Other Wolf Cichlids in the tank will be killed by the dominant male.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">This fish can only be kept with larger fish that have the same temperament and cannot be swallowed. The Wolf Cichlid will even try to consume a larger fish that is mellower than it by ripping it to pieces if it cannot swallow it whole. The mixed aquarium must be hundreds of gallons with rocks used to form natural territory borders and lots of hiding places for the other fish. It is not suggested to house them with any other fish and they are best served in a species specific tank. If you live in a warm area, they can be kept in a pond.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Sexual Differences:</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> Males are larger, and the females are mostly yellow.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial";">Availability:</span></b><span style="font-family: "arial";"> The Wolf Cichlid or Dovii Cichlid are sometimes available online and sometimes in fish stores. They will run about $10.00 USD for 2” very young dovii juveniles and if you raise dovii you too should sell at 1.5" to 2".</span></div>
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JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-17819305939108419152012-02-23T12:43:00.008-08:002012-02-23T18:53:52.998-08:00Nitrate Balancing Act<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWf_RgKaCx6_HzFRnxhTb885-NxczOLzCJha1hKfBsoa7U8zAyzKYBAz9MNxEIffp4oGZ_dnFcBr_jXz_8Kn-C2QWlAMxuGbIG8kAb4thF_s7FXxfwG4dCx0VyZrHX28zNmiXc0BtTko/s1600/newgif.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWf_RgKaCx6_HzFRnxhTb885-NxczOLzCJha1hKfBsoa7U8zAyzKYBAz9MNxEIffp4oGZ_dnFcBr_jXz_8Kn-C2QWlAMxuGbIG8kAb4thF_s7FXxfwG4dCx0VyZrHX28zNmiXc0BtTko/s1600/newgif.gif" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nitrates are a by-product of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrite" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Nitrite">nitrite</a> from the temporary bacteria and fungus i.e. <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algae" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Algae">algae</a> union of two <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacteria" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Bacteria">bacterial</a> cells during which one cell transfers part or all of its genome to the other during the latter stages of the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_cycle" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Nitrogen cycle">nitrogen cycle</a>, and will be present to some degree in all aquariums.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Debris created from decaying plant material or food, dirty filters, over-feeding, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Fish">fish</a> over-stocking the aquarium, water tempter the hotter the water temperature the lower the oxygen level in the water; lights help produce algae all these things contribute to increased production of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrate" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Nitrate">nitrates</a>. </span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_w8Q4z0DtrDiS3s13KUlVX387VkNhBVTe3KUumArBI8Tz0Q0bOl8rGsD3rRYUhExQ0hXSt4feKPUPPieljihXY89L5i_gP9eM1rOD_fqwSDjLUpPUmnELanUTCzlz9FGygh6MyDCxXg/s1600/images-filter+will+prevent+the+nitrogen+cycle+from+getting+out+of+balance..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_w8Q4z0DtrDiS3s13KUlVX387VkNhBVTe3KUumArBI8Tz0Q0bOl8rGsD3rRYUhExQ0hXSt4feKPUPPieljihXY89L5i_gP9eM1rOD_fqwSDjLUpPUmnELanUTCzlz9FGygh6MyDCxXg/s400/images-filter+will+prevent+the+nitrogen+cycle+from+getting+out+of+balance..jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="rg_hn st" id="rg_hn"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Filters will prevent the nitrogen cycle from getting out of balance.</span></b></div><div class="rg_ahr"><br />
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</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nitrates and Algae</span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Elevated nitrates are a significant contributor to undesirable algae growth. Nitrate levels as low as 10 <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parts-per_notation" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Parts-per notation">ppm</a> will promote algae growth. Algae blooms in newly setup tanks are usually due to elevated nitrate levels. Plants utilize nitrates, if nitrates rise faster than the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Plant">plants</a> can use them, the plants can become overgrown with algae, ultimately leading to the plants failure.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nitrates and Water</span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Before adding water to your aquarium test your <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Tap water">tap water</a> for nitrates so you know if your tap water nitrates levels are unusually high in your water source. Unfortunately water used to fill the aquarium often has nitrates in it; in the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.8833333333,-77.0166666667&spn=10.0,10.0&q=38.8833333333,-77.0166666667%20%28United%20States%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" target="_blank" title="United States">United States</a></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, your drinking water may have nitrates as high as 40 ppm. If nitrates are above 10 ppm, you must use other water sources that are free of nitrates.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/kAu9Z6Ehzb8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Desired Level</span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm. In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 40 pm at all times, preferably below 25 ppm. If you are breeding fish or you are battling algae growth, keep nitrates below 10 ppm.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">How to Reduce Nitrates</span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Unlike ammonia and nitrites, the bacteria that remove nitrates do not like oxygen rich environments. Therefore, conventional filters do not harbor the bacteria that remove nitrates. Although special filters do exist and they will remove nitrates, such devices are usually expensive compared to other filtration units; nitrates denitrator freshwater filtering systems in my opinion this type of filter is worth every penny what we fail to mention is <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algae_scrubber" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Algae scrubber">nitrate filter</a> will greatly reduce the need for water changes in your <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Aquarium">fish tanks</a>, saving you time, money, and reducing the stress on your aquarium fish. However, there are steps you can take immediately to keep nitrates at lower levels.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Keep your aquarium clean – Waste, algae ultimately produces nitrates; the cleaner your aquarium the fewer nitrates are produced.</span></span></li>
</ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Overfeeding your fish – Feed your fish only enough food that the fish can consume in 5 minutes after five minutes use your net to fish out any food that has not been eaten. Overfeeding is a significant contributor to excess nitrates and other undesirable wastes; such as phosphates.</span></span></li>
</ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Water changes – Performing weekly 20% regular water changes with water that has little or no nitrates will lower the overall nitrate level in the tank. <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverse_osmosis" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Reverse osmosis">RO/DI</a> water system is another choice for keeping nitrate levels low.</span></span></li>
</ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Always keep live plants – Live plants utilize nitrates, and will help keep nitrates in check.</span></span></li>
</ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Use nitrogen removing filter media – Instead of denitrator or special filter, use special media in the filter you have. Although they will not lower nitrates dramatically, if used together with other methods the net result will be beneficial</span></span></li>
</ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">The significance of nitrates in the aquarium is arguably less understood by <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishkeeping" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Fishkeeping">fish keepers</a> than the effect of ammonia and nitrites. Although nitrates are not directly lethal in the way ammonia or nitrites are, over time high levels of nitrate have a negative effect on fish, plants and the aquarium environment in general.</span></span></li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Effect on Fish</span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fish will feel the impact of nitrates by the time the levels reach 100 ppm, particularly if levels remain there. The resulting stress leaves the fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce; if you are trying to breed your fish you absolutely have to keep the nitrate levels low.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">High nitrate levels are in particular harmful to fry and young immature fish; further it will affect their growth. Furthermore, conditions that cause elevated nitrates always cause decreased oxygen levels in the water which further stress the fish or kills them.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=e6de9a6b-c3a2-45ee-980e-10130c781c3f" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-65162775198714722692012-02-21T14:30:00.000-08:002012-02-21T14:40:44.080-08:00Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals, Another Great Plant for Convict Cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0IYgfVehais5eMAdZvsHUsgZZ1ikxBmQH-pEZVdRM9IWf60GOkTHh86C4-wIsRmcmpKlIeVHHC2ECT_XS9sSfcyEMO1mMJw0PZ5dGjdv-JwM6MYyqyoaO96kQ0QFc0USr3aR-76nOmE/s1600/DSC00252-Vallisneria+Spiralis,+Italian+Vals2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0IYgfVehais5eMAdZvsHUsgZZ1ikxBmQH-pEZVdRM9IWf60GOkTHh86C4-wIsRmcmpKlIeVHHC2ECT_XS9sSfcyEMO1mMJw0PZ5dGjdv-JwM6MYyqyoaO96kQ0QFc0USr3aR-76nOmE/s400/DSC00252-Vallisneria+Spiralis,+Italian+Vals2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Vallisneria Spiralis, Italian Vals</b></span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallisneria_spiralis" rel="wikipedia" title="Vallisneria spiralis">Vallisneria Spiralis</a> or as most people know them as Italian <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=46.6166666667,9.18333333333&spn=0.1,0.1&q=46.6166666667,9.18333333333%20%28Vals%2C%20Switzerland%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Vals, Switzerland">Vals</a> are wonderful tall background plants. They do well in just about all water types and lighting, from soft to hard and low light to high light. With Vallisneria Spiralis you can cut the leaves to any size without damaging the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" title="Plant">plant</a> which makes them great for small, large, tall, and short tanks.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Light Needs:</b> Low to moderate</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Family:</b> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrocharitaceae" rel="wikipedia" title="Hydrocharitaceae">Hydrocharitaceae</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Region:</b> Asia</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Size:</b> 30-55+ cm</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Growth Rate:</b> Fast</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If you are considering buying you should receive 3 Rooted plants, leaves are approx. 15" to 20" tall.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9IPBl8OD09JHv_6yYU96XxVNI0iNdCPIFqcH4CJxC53OZoCkdwOGrv0MoI73zNZN4wv0ECmsmhFI8iEnP-ck4ZI-QVYGH8G3q__NEB3R-e6ASycKhJBCDvKUzRlN-1kGHO6AgJ1pjGo/s1600/images-Vallisneria+Spiralis,+Italian+Vals,1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9IPBl8OD09JHv_6yYU96XxVNI0iNdCPIFqcH4CJxC53OZoCkdwOGrv0MoI73zNZN4wv0ECmsmhFI8iEnP-ck4ZI-QVYGH8G3q__NEB3R-e6ASycKhJBCDvKUzRlN-1kGHO6AgJ1pjGo/s400/images-Vallisneria+Spiralis,+Italian+Vals,1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Italian Vals, Another <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Comet" rel="wikipedia" title="Great Comet">Great</a> Plant for Convict Cichlids </b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><b><u>By Bob Fenner</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallisneria" rel="wikipedia" title="Vallisneria">Vallisneria</a> americana, a Jungle Val. in aquarium and in Florida in a drainage ditch</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Amongst the most hardy and undemanding <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquatic_plant" rel="wikipedia" title="Aquatic plant">aquatic plants</a>, Vallisnerias are easily grown in most aquariums. Their easy requirements are nutrient bearing gravel, lots of light and careful initial planting (with their white crown bases barely above gravel.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vals are great for backgrounds, tank sides and central areas where high relief is desired. The genus is probably the most widely offered in the hobby; and the lowest cost to purchase and cultivate. Don't worry about killing them off, you will probably have to periodically thin out these plants to reduce their dense thickets.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/45dAiV6jVNo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Distribution & Classification</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The genus is widely distributed over a large part of the globe, fresh to brackish, tropics to semi-temperate, naturally and through human introduction.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisneriaare members of the monocotyledon family Hydrocharitaceae. This group that should be familiar to aquatic horticulturists as it also contains other important genera; <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elodea" rel="wikipedia" title="Elodea">Elodea</a> (anacharis), the beautiful heart-shaped Limnobium and notorious <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrilla" rel="wikipedia" title="Hydrilla">Hydrilla verticillata</a>, among others.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Vallisnerias are superficially similar to the equally popular and appropriate arrowheads, genus <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagittaria" rel="wikipedia" title="Sagittaria">Sagittaria</a>. These look-alikes have pointier leaves, whiter, thicker roots and different venation in their leaf structure. Sag's typically bear darker green, stiffer leaves than vals.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There are about ten species of Vallisnerias, but good luck sorting them out. There is much confusion in the trade and literature on the common and scientific naming of these species and their hybrids and sport mutations. But as <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.last.fm/music/William%2BShakespeare" rel="lastfm" title="William Shakespeare">William Shakespeare</a> wrote, "what's in a name"? Don't let labels dissuade you from trying the vals; they're all good.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>The Players: </b>Vallisneria spiralisLinnaeus is the beginning of the 'name game' trouble. This plant is named for the long spiraling stalk of its female flowers, but among its many synonyms and cultivar varieties are many surprisingly different structural types.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">V. spiralis has one sub-form, termed "forma tortafolia", a sport mutation labeled V. tortissima and other 'contortionist' races that are variously sold as "spiral, corkscrew, twisted..."; Val in the trade. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The common names for the "parent" species include "tape grass" and "straight Val". Does this seem confused? You bet. There are many sports worldwide that have been named for variations in their leaves; <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallisneria_spiralis" rel="wikipedia" title="Vallisneria spiralis">Vallisneria spiralis</a> forma portugalensis, V. s. forma nana, V. s. forma pusilla, V. s. forma gracilis. And the fun doesn't stop there; synonyms (invalid same species names) Vallisneria americana, V. jaquinii, V. linnei, V. minor are only the beginning of misnomers (see Roe). I'll never complain about African cichlids again.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">V. spiralis plants can be distinguished from other vals and Sagittarias on the basis of the 'veins' in their leaves. They have five "ribs" which end parallel at the leaf tip. The middle vein is flanked by one thick and one thin vein near the leaf edge.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anyway, all of the V. spiralis same species and varieties are very good aquarium plants. Some stay less than a foot high with leaves about a quarter inch, others get to about twice as tall and wide. Some have straight, others varyingly tightly corkscrew wound leafing. Here's an image of V. spiralis in an aquarium.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisneria gigantea Graebner is like its name sounds the 'true' giant val. This is the largest species, growing to over six feet; for larger aquaria or even sub-tropical ponds. It originated in New Guinea and the Philippines, but we grow it outside all year round in my home-town of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=32.715,-117.1625&spn=0.1,0.1&q=32.715,-117.1625%20%28San%20Diego%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="San Diego">San Diego, California</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Leaves with seven veins, available sometimes in a beautiful red which changes back to green with increased lighting. This species is best blind potted to facilitate moving, re-fertilization.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisneria asiaticaMiki, 1934. Naturally distributed in temperate areas of Asia. Ribbon-like non-twisted leaves, 16-24 "; long, up to 1/3; " wide. Imported since 1970, often sold as V. spiralis; don't you hate common names?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisneria neotropicalisMarie Victoria, 1943. Distribution Southern U.S., Cuba. Color deep green to reddish. Often offered as American, giant, Italian Val in the west. To five foot long; large tanks only. One large central mid-rib with 4 long veins in every leaf.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Cultivation Notes</b>:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisneriaen moderate <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" title="PH">pH</a>'s (6-7.5); most species do well in tropical temperatures, 72-86 <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fahrenheit" rel="wikipedia" title="Fahrenheit">degrees Fahrenheit</a>. <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V._gigantea" rel="wikipedia" title="V. gigantea">V. gigantea</a> will grow into the fifties. As regards mineral content, the water should not be too hard, a KH of 15 degrees or lower is best. Should your water start too hard from its source, you might consider mixing it with non-hard water (R.O., deionized), use of an acidifying agent, or transfer 'old' water from another system.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Substrate size and depth, with or without undergravel filter use is relatively unimportant. Silica sand or washed gravel will do with no supplementation other than fish wastes generally necessary or desirable. The larger species I would blind pot to facilitate moving and re-fertilizing, others do fine without utilizing peat, soil or other media placed under the gravel. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Care in planting is far more important; take care to not bury more than the root base of these plants, nor to get gravel between and amongst their leaf base. To plant gently drag the plants' roots under the gravel pulling the crown above the gravel at its white base.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lighting cannot be practically too great in terms of strength or duration. The best light source for these and other specialty live-plant tanks is still full-spectrum fluorescents (e.g. Vita-lite), but most types of illumination will sustain these plants; if your plants don't seem to be growing, increase duration; where in doubt, extend the daylight.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Propagation: </b>Occurs via two mechanisms, sexual by flowering and asexually through vegetative 'runners'.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vallisnerias are dioecious, with separate male and female flowering plants. These flowers appear on special stems that can grow as much as 2 cm. (1/2 inch) per hour. The male flower spathe is short and releases male flowers near the base of the plant that rise to the surface pollinating the long-stalked female flowers. On fertilizing these coil and ripen underwater.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Display, Competition: </b>The genus Vallisneria grows and shows well with those other hardy favorites the Cryptocorynes (crypts), Ceratopteris (water fern), Hygrophilas, Aponogetons, elodeas, and the South American Swordplants in the genus Echinodorus.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Some other writers and friends have stated that for whatever reasons that the genera Sagittaria and Vallisneria do not mix well in the same system. Perhaps sags prefer higher calcium concentrations than vals; maybe one produces allelopathogenic chemicals that mal-affect the other? To my experience there are no difficulties in mixing the two; I've done it and seen many instances of other folks growing them together, luxuriantly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Collecting Your Own: </b>Can be done as various varieties are to be found around the world. The usual words of caution here: 1) Check for permits in your area. 2) Do not, for any reason, place/replace plant stocks where they can 'get loose' in the wild 3) Do carefully inspect wild-collected plants, dip in alum, potassium permanganate, other prepared solution to remove unwanted pests, pollution and parasites and 4) definitely quarantine for a good two weeks plus...</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Conclusion: </b>Despite the perplexing naming, cross common-naming of the various vals, these are rightly the most popular aquarium plants. They are tolerant of an amazing range of water qualities, lighting conditions and quantities and do just fine with any type of substrate and simple fish 'manure' fertilization.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Simply plant them crown-out of the gravel in an area where you want something tall, and watch them grow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Bibliography/Further: </b>Baensch, Hans A. Aquarium Atlas, Vol. 2. Tetra Press, 1212 pgs.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Brown, Phillip J. 1977. Vallisneria. TFH 4/77.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Brunner, Gerhard. 1973. Aquarium Plants. T.F.H. Publ., N.J.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Gasser, Robert A. 1979. Contortionist Val. FAMA 2/79.</div><div class="MsoNormal">James, Barry. 1986. A Fishkeepers Guide to Aquarium Plants. Tetra Press, Salamander Books, U.K.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Prescott, G.W. 1969 How to Know the Aquatic Plants. Wm C. Brown Co., Iowa.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Roe, Colin D. 1967. A Manual of Aquarium Plants. Shirley Aquatics, Ltd.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Stodola, Jiri. 1967. Encyclopedia of Water Plants. T.F.H. Publ., N.J.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Related FAQs: Vallisneria Plants for the Aquarium Garden, Pond Plants and Planting, </div><div class="MsoNormal">Related Articles: Live Plants for Aquariums,</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Aquarium Gardener Series</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Genus Vallisneria Linne</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Graphics: </b>Two transparencies of the highly variable V. spiralis, labeled and sold as "jungle Val" in the western U.S.. The first clearly shows asexual reproduction via 'runners', as well as the namesake 'spiral' female flower stalk. The outdoors picture is from southern Florida where this plant is a contaminant (unwanted foreign species) growing in a drainage canal. 3) For comparison the more stout, bluish green-bean colored Sagittaria (S. sagittifolia). 4,5) Two poor aquarium shots of V. spiralis tortifolia showing the off its beautiful twisted appearance.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=3322df23-6308-4a41-837a-cc1757fa9f82" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-23689120543889373022012-02-21T13:18:00.000-08:002012-02-21T13:28:06.583-08:00Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxLL_X67JGtqgWOtBtj3aRuCsbhR462lmAzelwtOOjlRE7eGOu1YFYt9cfciwxgi33ysessyWAaSBVVmk8wSFCwbIXI0LB6DifOdCv_fQ_aOshazQJ1_uIeRzXmUIDP-Rjy5aXt0Vo_A/s1600/images-CHRISTMAS+MOSS%252C+Vesicularia+montagnei%252C1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxLL_X67JGtqgWOtBtj3aRuCsbhR462lmAzelwtOOjlRE7eGOu1YFYt9cfciwxgi33ysessyWAaSBVVmk8wSFCwbIXI0LB6DifOdCv_fQ_aOshazQJ1_uIeRzXmUIDP-Rjy5aXt0Vo_A/s400/images-CHRISTMAS+MOSS%252C+Vesicularia+montagnei%252C1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Convict Cichlids Christmas Moss, Vesicutaria montagnei</b></span></td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Montagnei, Beautiful Moss. The <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.history.com/topics/christmas" rel="historycom" title="Christmas">Christmas</a> moss is a wonderful moss originally seen in Japanese <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium" rel="wikipedia" title="Aquarium">aquariums</a> and known as ''<a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amazon_rainforest" rel="wikipedia" title="Amazon rainforest">Amazonia</a> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Java_moss" rel="wikipedia" title="Java moss">Willow Moss</a>'' or ''Christmas moss'', because of its side branch structure which look like fir tree branches or <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christmas_tree" rel="wikipedia" title="Christmas tree">Christmas trees</a> this is a moss that will help your convict cichlids thrive. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Hardiness:</b> Easy</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Light Needs:</b> Low</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Plant Structure:</b> Moss / Fern</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Family:</b> Hypnaceae</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Genus:</b> Vesicularia</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Size:</b> Infinite</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Growth Rate:</b> Slow</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhynvVBqFiuy_Vee_G_6LFrUgQvC2F-hnMs4LbCadfk3osb6WajnU9lGnDt2RKW9Z9zDMQXumv8QUYQL94yuYhSlBAW9x26y0Y2IjQWd5P6sA-OtSvepQZvscGT7KhRQoMSV3PNfuNhyo/s1600/images-CHRISTMAS+MOSS%252C+Vesicularia+montagnei%252C2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhynvVBqFiuy_Vee_G_6LFrUgQvC2F-hnMs4LbCadfk3osb6WajnU9lGnDt2RKW9Z9zDMQXumv8QUYQL94yuYhSlBAW9x26y0Y2IjQWd5P6sA-OtSvepQZvscGT7KhRQoMSV3PNfuNhyo/s400/images-CHRISTMAS+MOSS%252C+Vesicularia+montagnei%252C2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Vesicutaria montagnei-Xmas Moss</b></span></td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size: 20pt;">REQUEST</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">Christmas Moss education November 2, 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Darlene Harrison from <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.7630555556,-86.3877777778&spn=0.1,0.1&q=39.7630555556,-86.3877777778%20%28Avon%2C%20Indiana%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Avon, Indiana">Avon, IN</a> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.history.com/topics/states" rel="historycom" title="The States">United States</a> </div><div class="MsoNormal">I myself haven't grown this moss yet. I'm considering buying it so I looked up some information. What I learned is below. Hope it's accurate. I'll let you know if not.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Lighting</b></div><div class="MsoNormal">It can grow in different light levels. I grow my moss very well with a 11W PC light over the 30cm tank. As a general rule, the higher the light, the faster the moss grow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Fertilizer</b></div><div class="MsoNormal">With or without additional fertilizer, the moss will still grow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>CO2</b></div><div class="MsoNormal">With or without additional CO2, the moss will still grow.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Water Temperature</b></div><div class="MsoNormal">In general, most of the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moss" rel="wikipedia" title="Moss">mosses</a> grow better in a slightly cooler water temperature of less than 28C (82.4F).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Aquascaping</b></div><div class="MsoNormal">The beauty of the moss is best presented when it is grown attached to something, example, rocks, driftwood, or as a background moss wall. Though it will still grow even if you just dump it into a container, you can't really see the beauty of it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>If you purchase</b> you would be buying 1 portion which is 2" by 2"</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.rottentomatoes.com/celebrity/common" rel="rottentomatoes" title="Common">Common</a> Name:</b> Christmas Moss, Xmas Moss</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Scientific Name:</b> Vesicularia montagnei</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Geographic Location:</b> Unknown</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Temperature:</b> 65F-77F</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" title="PH">pH</a>:</b> 5.0-7.5</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Light:</b> Low (1.5WPG) to High (3WPG+)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Growth:</b> Slow</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Difficulty:</b> Beginner</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Christmas Moss is as mysterious as some of the other mosses in the aquarium hobby. There is no consensus on its geographic origins and even the scientific name has a tendency to change. Its growth habits and appearance are just as varied. When grown attached to a piece of driftwood or rock, it forms triangular fronds in the shape of Christmas trees (hence the common name). </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If allowed to grow free floating, it tends to have a much less organized appearance and the triangular fronds are much less pronounced. In this form, it is often confused for the much more common Java Moss. In lower light, it grows much less densely, and again, is often much less organized in structure and only under higher light conditions, attached or anchored to an object, does Christmas Moss show its true structure. It will form a pillowy bush of triangular fronds that is very attractive and undemanding.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This moss is very easy to grow in the aquarium, as it will grow with almost any amount of light. Although not as hardy as the legendary Java Moss, it will survive with low light and no CO2. Growth will not be the ideal structure and will be considerably slower, but it will still live. Like other mosses, Christmas Moss prefers cooler temperatures, under 77F. Over this, it tends to suffer, growing more slowly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As an aquascaping element, its uses are limited to covering hardscape (rocks, driftwood) or creating a moss wall. A moss wall is created by sandwiching the moss between two pieces of mesh and placing this in the back or sides of a tank. The moss eventually grows through the mesh and covers it up, creating a wall of attractive triangular fronds (as seen in the picture above). It can be used as a carpeting plant; however this is not recommended, as it easily gets choked with mulm and debris and becomes an algae magnet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Christmas Moss is best bought from other hobbyists who have it growing under ideal conditions in their own aquariums (thus making identification easier). Getting it in a local pet store or online can be risky, as Java Moss can be passed off as Christmas Moss at less than reputable establishments. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Christmas Moss can be identified by its more regular branching pattern and slightly different leaf shape. In the picture below, the moss on the left is Java Moss and on the right is Christmas Moss.Shrimp and fish fry use it as cover and it is also an excellent source of food for both, harboring tiny infusoria (bugs). Overall, Christmas Moss is an excellent plant for covering hardscape, filling in gaps, and creating living backdrops in any aquarium.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=196ba090-b839-4472-9667-3277c4127168" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-72392595705723042302012-02-21T12:31:00.002-08:002012-02-21T12:39:33.673-08:00Anubias Nana Pette, Beautiful anubias specie for Convict Cichlid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpAKdNEcFAkz5yZhDumqfhArORLJ8gcHgM5V7VpAh_aJ8rGMeXMmn6jfavwXj8rSutIZzuvDREjfR7Zuv9C0sVuIDvdMLEoWwSzi_SVqJXznbE3nkIeaMQl0dDYrJfi4GZ4XrEIbDjJg/s1600/images-ANUBIAS+NANA+PETITE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpAKdNEcFAkz5yZhDumqfhArORLJ8gcHgM5V7VpAh_aJ8rGMeXMmn6jfavwXj8rSutIZzuvDREjfR7Zuv9C0sVuIDvdMLEoWwSzi_SVqJXznbE3nkIeaMQl0dDYrJfi4GZ4XrEIbDjJg/s400/images-ANUBIAS+NANA+PETITE.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anubias" rel="wikipedia" title="Anubias">Anubias</a> Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Live Aquarium Plants; <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-Light_%28G.I._Joe%29" rel="wikipedia" title="Low-Light (G.I. Joe)">Low Light</a> Plants; <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anubias_barteri_var._nana" rel="wikipedia" title="Anubias barteri var. nana">ANUBIAS NANA</a> PETITE, Beautiful anubias specie</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias Barteri Var. Nana 'Petite'. Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie. The leaves average around the size of finger nail which makes it great for nano tanks or to dress up small pieces of driftwood. They do great from low light to high <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_tank" rel="wikipedia" title="Light tank">light tanks</a>. Attach them to driftwood, aquarium decorations, or <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" title="Plant">plant</a> in your substrate. This plant does well in almost any water type and lighting again this is great plant for your <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" title="South America">South American</a> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convict_cichlid" rel="wikipedia" title="Convict cichlid">Convict</a> cichlids because the convict cichlid requires low light and this plant grows well in low light; remember to purchase a cheap automatic timer so your tank lights will be turned off after running for no more than 7 hours. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5C0jC-Wi3blir9GoJsLVkG78NT099aO9-h6hLkjn4FNRegBCid_m01sanuuzYhaKXN9eJsp-q67gP_Rpz2seAXMkV6KnV9mxIr3gwvFVkcBYCool2KIjjtSsQ_uVwtf1MgNSXjxpL3WM/s1600/images-ANUBIAS+NANA+PETITE-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5C0jC-Wi3blir9GoJsLVkG78NT099aO9-h6hLkjn4FNRegBCid_m01sanuuzYhaKXN9eJsp-q67gP_Rpz2seAXMkV6KnV9mxIr3gwvFVkcBYCool2KIjjtSsQ_uVwtf1MgNSXjxpL3WM/s400/images-ANUBIAS+NANA+PETITE-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Anubias petite is one of the smallest anubias specie</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardiness_zone" rel="wikipedia" title="Hardiness zone">Hardiness</a>:</b> Very Easy</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Light Needs:</b> Low</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Plant Structure:</b> Rhizome</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Family:</b> Araceae</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Genus:</b> Anubias</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Region:</b> Cultivar</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Location:</b> Cultivar</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Size:</b> 3-5cm (1-2in) tall</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Family:</b> Araceae</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Continent:</b> Cultivar</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_height" rel="wikipedia" title="Human height">Height</a>:</b> 3-5 cm</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Width:</b><b> </b> 5-10+ cm</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Light requirements:</b> very low-high</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Temperature:</b> 20-30 °C</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardness" rel="wikipedia" title="Hardness">Hardness</a> tolerance:</b> very soft or very hard</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" title="PH">pH</a> tolerance:</b> 6-8</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Growth:</b> very slow</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Demands:</b> easy</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This is a very rare find. This Anubia is a hybrid miniature nana. It only needs low light, it's hardy and very easy to grow. Each plant is less than the size of a 50 cent piece full grown!! The Nana Petite is ideally suitable for miniature aquascapes for small aquariums.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Description</b></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">Home Plantpedia Search Results Anubias nana var. 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana var. 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Background History</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Nicknamed by hobbyists as "nana petite", Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’ is a neat little plant that has become a favorite low maintenance mid-ground plant. Originally cultivated from the Anubias barteri var. nana, the petite version exhibits very condense and compact leaf growth.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is not demanding and fills up the little empty spaces in between nooks and crannies. Best of all this tiny plant can be moved around since it is best tied onto small rocks or small pieces of driftwood.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana ‘Petite’ has great aquascaping potential for just about every aquarium, but can be especially useful in nano aquascapes.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Growth Characteristics</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is composed of several small leaves and a hard stalks stem called a <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhizome" rel="wikipedia" title="Rhizome">rhizome</a>. The entire plant grows to approximately 2 inch wide by 2 inch tall (5 cm). The ½ inch wide (1 cm) leaves are beautifully round and dark green. These tiny leaves sprout from a rhizome which extends roots that anchor the plant to rocks and the substrate.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Like most Anubias species, Anubias nana ‘Petite’ does not require much attention. Regular water changes and the occasional dose of fertilizers will keep this plant healthy. It grows well in a wide range of water conditions, but grows fastest in cool water, high light and carbon dioxide inject setups. In lower light conditions, it is truly a low maintenance plant and will continue to grow slowly (1-2 leaves a month).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A recommend trimming once a month allows new leaves to grow. Anubias nana ‘Petite’ are susceptible to black brush <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algae" rel="wikipedia" title="Algae">algae</a> [<a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bachelor_of_Business_Administration" rel="wikipedia" title="Bachelor of Business Administration">BBA</a>], and Green spot algae [GSA]. This can be an eyesore but it is easily remedied. Trim any algae infected leaves, and soak in 1 part bleach to 20 parts water. The thin filaments of the algae infesting the plant will start to whiten. At this point remove and rinse the Anubias nana ‘Petite’ and its leaves with a few drops of anti-chlorine. Rub each leaf off of the dying algae. One final freshwater rinse will clean off the leaves completely.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is easily propagated by splitting a healthy rhizome, ensuring both halves contain at least three leaves.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Aquascaping Application</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana ‘Petite’ looks best in groups of at least 3 plants. Attach the rhizome to driftwood using thread or fishing line. Small Rocks may be also attached, which provides greater mobility in rearrange an aquascape later.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Aquascapers often plant this plant in smaller bunches at the base of driftwood or stones, or they may attempted to create a large Anubias nana ‘Petite’ retaining-like wall serves as a borders against other plants. Aquascapers also enjoy pairing Anubias nana ‘Petite’ with other species of larger species of Anubias to fill in open pockets of space or Anubias nana ‘Petite’ is a versatile plant in nano aquascapes. It can serve as a foreground or a background plant.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anubias nana 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Plant Profile</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Scientific Name:</b> Anubias nana var. 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Common Name:</b> Anubias nana 'Petite'</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Difficulty:</b> Very Easy</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>CO2 Requirements:</b> Very Low</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Lighting Requirements:</b> Low</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Plant Arrangement:</b> Foreground</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Growth Rate:</b> Slow</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Family: </b>Araceae</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Genus:</b> Anubias</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Origin:</b> Undefined/Unknown</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Plant Type:</b> Rhizome</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water" rel="wikipedia" title="Hard water">Water Hardness</a>:</b> Medium (GH = 9-13 <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.hulu.com/desperate-housewives" rel="hulu" title="Desperate Housewives - Full Episodes and Clips streaming online for free">dH</a>)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Accessories for this product..</b>.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or Professional Plant Anchors)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><u style="color: blue;">www.AquariumPlants.com</u>: SUBSTRATE VITALIZATION</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Reviews for Anubias nana ‘Petite’</b></span><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span> </b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">so cute! January 31, 2012</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Kelly from Stockton, CA United States </div><div class="MsoNormal">This nana the second time was very very healthy and pretty good sized, no pot as I thought I was getting, but I got 5 small bunches which is better.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Beautiful and hardy July 7, 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Yemanou from New Hampshire </div><div class="MsoNormal">I bought these for a low tech 10 gallon with LED lights and no CO2. I fixed the plants with rubberbands on lavarocks (which I bought from home depot barbecue section). After three months they doubled in size and are now well anchored in the lava rock, which allows me to easily move them around with the rock. The look beautiful in dark green and are very dense. I already cut the stem and am growing new plants. These grow well under average light conditions and without CO2.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Nice little plant February 20, 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Simon Houle from Elko, NV United States </div><div class="MsoNormal">I ordered 3 of these and only received 2. I was billed for 3. Never got a reply to the email I sent aqueriumplant.com the day I received the plants. Otherwise, those are nice looking anubias; many leaves’ dying but some new growth after 1 month under 2 watt/gallons.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Awesome Little Plants! October 23, 2010</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Iain from Mill Creek, WA United States </div><div class="MsoNormal">True to their name, these guys are small and very compact. While I've only been in the hobby since January 2010, and while there have been some plants that I have not been able to keep alive, it has been great to watch these plants grow and grow! I struggled to figure out where to put them at first, since all my other plants tower over them, I found putting them in pieces of (freshwater aquarium safe) rock. They rooted quickly to the rock and seem to flourish in it! Although, I can't seem to keep algae from growing on the leaves... Great plant can't go wrong with this one!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Excellent aquarium plant! October 22, 2010</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Hasan Karaahmet from Istanbul, Turkey </div><div class="MsoNormal">When you're ordering perishable aquatic plants, their ability to survive in an air-tight, dark, often too hot or too cold packaging and without a lot of nutrients for at least 2-3 days is of utmost importance. This plant came to me in nearly top condition on the 4th day, unlike the Pelia (fully dead) that I had also ordered. That alone should give you a good idea of how hardy this plant is.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It is a small, short plant that grows very slowly. I've had mine for about two months now and I'd say it's grown by only about 5-10%. No CO2, no fertilizer, low-medium light. If you have carpeting in mind, you'll need to order this in numbers.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">My sample is about half an inch tall, with another 1/2 inch going into the short root system. Ecliptic shape with an avg. diameter of 1 inch. It's dark green in color, suggestive of a lot of chlorophyll and efficient photosynthesis. Leaves are small but very hardy. Most forms of algae cannot accumulate on them and most species of fish won't eat them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If you purchased this plant you would be buying 1 rooted plant that will have 12+ leaves. Approx size is 1.5" x 1.5".</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=05a1b612-6045-43ba-ae64-9ea99807e5a7" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-17262219735009177472012-02-21T10:42:00.002-08:002012-02-21T10:47:38.620-08:00Aquarium Plant Easy Fast Growing, Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, Substrate Vitalization<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPY4aAvWKBEJtTLOOSeDVD_aR45M7hmFF41Vr1IJdlQmgjOALiwJ0AfcxG2_Q72UNB_DiR9ThDRQOQOHmLg0xMc3i85doS4jBp_xkwLuL8gYZFDzu4KhNdSbcqT2e_xTuP3f939wv_ib0/s1600/Anacharis+narrow+Leaf%252C+Egeria+Nanas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPY4aAvWKBEJtTLOOSeDVD_aR45M7hmFF41Vr1IJdlQmgjOALiwJ0AfcxG2_Q72UNB_DiR9ThDRQOQOHmLg0xMc3i85doS4jBp_xkwLuL8gYZFDzu4KhNdSbcqT2e_xTuP3f939wv_ib0/s400/Anacharis+narrow+Leaf%252C+Egeria+Nanas.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" title="South America">South America</a> Egeria najas aka Anacharis narrow leaf </b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" title="South America">South America</a> Egeria najas also known as Anacharis narrow leaf is very similar to the very popular common Anacharis (E. densa) but has narrow leaves that sprout from a more delicate thin stalk. The leaves may curl downward slightly at the ends. These <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant" rel="wikipedia" title="Plant">plants</a> can be planted in the substrate plant with anchor weight or can remain floating at the surface. <span style="font-size: small;"><b>Anacharis narrow leaf </b></span> plant is easy to grow; grows well in low or medium light and <span style="color: blue;">this plant is great for South America Convict cichlids, Chocolate cichlids</span> where you must use only low lights' on a cheap timer convict cichlid require low light environment and the lights should never be left on more than 7 hours.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Just like Common Anacharis it makes an <u style="color: blue;">ideal <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquatic_plant" rel="wikipedia" title="Aquatic plant">aquatic plant</a> for beginners</u> as it is one of the easier plants to keep. It is a terrific oxygenating plant and will do wonders for the inhabitants of your aquarium by adding oxygen and by using up excess nitrates that could harm your inhabitants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Hardiness: Easy</div><div class="MsoNormal">Light Needs: Low to Medium</div><div class="MsoNormal">Plant Structure: Stem</div><div class="MsoNormal">Family: Hydrocharitaceae</div><div class="MsoNormal">Genus: Egeria</div><div class="MsoNormal">Region: South America</div><div class="MsoNormal">Growth rate: Very fast</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">You are buying 1 bunch, approx. 6 stems, Plant weight included with all bunched plants.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anacharis Narrow Leaf (Egeria najas)</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Description: Narow Leaf Anacharis </div><div class="MsoNormal">Common Name: Narow Leaf Anacharis</div><div class="MsoNormal">Family Name: Hydrocharitacea</div><div class="MsoNormal">Native To: South America</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lighting: Low Light to Medium</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" title="PH">pH</a>: 7.0</div><div class="MsoNormal">Growth Demands: Easy</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_life-form" rel="wikipedia" title="Plant life-form">Growth Form</a>: Stem</div><div class="MsoNormal">Growth Rate: Fast</div><div class="MsoNormal">True Aquatic: Yes</div><div class="MsoNormal">Placement in Tank: Background</div><div class="MsoNormal">Available As: Bunch</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Egeria najas is a good plant for beginners, and its rapid growth helps create a balance in the aquarium from the start. It can also help prevent algae because it absorbs a great number of nutrients from the water. The plant secretes antibiotic substances which can help prevent blue-green algae (a type of bacteria). The growth rate depends largely on the amount of light and nutrition available. Growth does not stop in unfavorable conditions, but the plant turns light in color and the tendrils grow thin.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><u>www.AquariumPlants.com</u> own: <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Substrate_%28aquarium%29" rel="wikipedia" title="Substrate (aquarium)">SUBSTRATE</a> VITALIZATION </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Accessories for this product...</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">Lead Weights (not pure) Plant Anchors (quantity of 10) or add Professional Plant Anchors </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>REVIEWS of Anacharis narrow Leaf, Egeria Nanas, </b></span> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Generous bunch, very healthy June 22, 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Arlen from Canada </div><div class="MsoNormal">I received a very nice, fat bunch, which was very healthy and vigorous. A nice addition to the tank. Thanks!!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Clean, great shape October 7, 2010</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Liz from ID, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.history.com/topics/states" rel="historycom" title="The States">USA</a> </div><div class="MsoNormal">I ordered and received 5 generous bunches; each about 8 inches long. The nicest specimens I've seen.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Uhhhh-mazing! March 13, 2010</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Kenzie from <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=46.6019444444,-120.507777778&spn=0.1,0.1&q=46.6019444444,-120.507777778%20%28Yakima%2C%20Washington%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Yakima, Washington">Yakima, WA</a> United States </div><div class="MsoNormal">I ordered 3 of these for my 10 gallon "jungle" and love 'em! They seem to add a lot of texture to the aquarium and make it very exotic. I will defiantly be ordering from you guys again, Thanks!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Great Starter Plant! February 21, 2009</div><div class="MsoNormal">Reviewer: Jan Burroughs from <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=41.5961111111,-90.3563888889&spn=0.1,0.1&q=41.5961111111,-90.3563888889%20%28Le%20Claire%2C%20Iowa%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Le Claire, Iowa">Le Claire</a>, IA United States </div><div class="MsoNormal">I am new to aqua gardening and recently ordered 4 of these plants. They arrived in great condition and within a week I could see new growth. - Awesome starter plant - thanks so much!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Aquarium Plants</div><div class="MsoNormal">Aquarium Plants - Bunched Plants</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=ec72a6f0-933f-4cb8-862c-6182294e18e7" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-11603769807906360602012-02-16T16:13:00.000-08:002012-02-16T17:24:22.153-08:00Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran, Asian Cichlid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiek1HBB2uMlIFDO6egGdX_QTXd1zpvWG5MJD2QAelM-sZDh0fR7_nqcvUGAQi06sT_YrgkP04f7gVBmlN5zUxENlOkxnFo3OSqczD0f9daHzJP6JTF5quJguq_14LXsORra1JjaEergO4/s1600/07_iran2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiek1HBB2uMlIFDO6egGdX_QTXd1zpvWG5MJD2QAelM-sZDh0fR7_nqcvUGAQi06sT_YrgkP04f7gVBmlN5zUxENlOkxnFo3OSqczD0f9daHzJP6JTF5quJguq_14LXsORra1JjaEergO4/s400/07_iran2009.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=8647656053306431502"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran Cichlid</b></span></a></td></tr>
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In pursuit of rare <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish" rel="wikipedia" title="Fish">fish</a> scarcity does not necessarily translate into a <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Species" rel="wikipedia" title="Species">species</a> being difficult or interesting to maintain; if you are fortunate to possess a group of the uncommon and fascinating <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" title="Cichlid">cichlid</a> like <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iranocichla" rel="wikipedia" title="Iranocichla">Iranocichla hormuzensis</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Your first challenge will undoubtedly be locating Iranocichla hormuzensis and once you have found Iranocichla hormuzensis take a picture or post to you tube as cichlid picture or pictures tropical fish; breeding-Iranocichla hormuzensis will be discouraging;<b>Iranocichla hormuzensis.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQgKXbq9qeyWI7M4ErzdPej4A9NLgEosaiA52WHskv8d7Lk_c5xwpvEpLnBNMSh_t8zJhXwLvKBhNlpCf2fwm9W5S5lQNwEgcnZaCEeoe25XhZc_JkNIxu2SdG9ujWcjbtJdAV1e_kHg/s1600/08_iran2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQgKXbq9qeyWI7M4ErzdPej4A9NLgEosaiA52WHskv8d7Lk_c5xwpvEpLnBNMSh_t8zJhXwLvKBhNlpCf2fwm9W5S5lQNwEgcnZaCEeoe25XhZc_JkNIxu2SdG9ujWcjbtJdAV1e_kHg/s400/08_iran2009.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Collecting Iranocichla hormuzensis Iran Cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis is the only cichlid found in <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=35.6833333333,51.4166666667&spn=10.0,10.0&q=35.6833333333,51.4166666667%20%28Iran%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Iran">Iran</a> and is the lone member of the genus (monotypic). It is a maternal mouthbrooder with an extremely limited range along the southern coast of Iran being restricted to rivers draining into the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=26.5666666667,56.25&spn=1.0,1.0&q=26.5666666667,56.25%20%28Strait%20of%20Hormuz%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Strait of Hormuz">Strait of Hormuz</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/8eHEWDWLc58?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The word "river" can be misleading as you have seen in pictures of this species being collected in ankle deep <a class="zem_slink" href="http://www.business.com/office-equipment-and-supplies/office-water/" rel="businesscom" title="Water">water</a> flowing at a snail's pace. Every <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterway" rel="wikipedia" title="Waterway">waterway</a> seems to be slightly different, ranging in width from 1-50 meters. Often the streams will experience diminished flow rates and will settle into pools. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/9HXDJbfnFBA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div></div><div class="MsoNormal">Some years the pools may have fish and others they do not. The parameters of the water of its habitat vary wildly in regards to both salinity and temperature. This is a large portion of the challenge in keeping this fish. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Normally when you learn a fish comes from a system of fluctuating measurements and associate it with a species that is easy to keep and a little bit more tolerant of the water when what we put into their tanks isn't perfect. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://1.gvt0.com/vi/TRIfI8c26_U/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRIfI8c26_U&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRIfI8c26_U&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The challenge is not in the daily maintenance of Iranocichla hormuzensis but in matching those conditions when trying to induce spawning. These waterways have not been studied as extensively as most leaving many gaps in regards to addressing their water quality needs. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A large portion of the terrain in close proximity to these rivers, consist of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_dome" rel="wikipedia" title="Salt dome">salt domes</a>. This can cause to the water to be highly saline. Consequently, any influx of freshwater into the system will cause the salinity level to fluctuate. These are mostly small bodies of water and I would consider the conditions to be anything but stable. In addition, the water found in several oases where this fish is found, consists of pure <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresh_water" rel="wikipedia" title="Fresh water">fresh water</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGxZSGrizfQiweHXlW7TPBGH9LPkschgapdb5tP10lDscnXBixzetu9lEqTUPy4omr6mcLlvfuxm1HQxqgNfCOA0MTvf3Ai1O6OCBN-ryGjahvS8BmfNjF0F9sihvTPesYrHUZ9FC-iU/s1600/10_iran2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGxZSGrizfQiweHXlW7TPBGH9LPkschgapdb5tP10lDscnXBixzetu9lEqTUPy4omr6mcLlvfuxm1HQxqgNfCOA0MTvf3Ai1O6OCBN-ryGjahvS8BmfNjF0F9sihvTPesYrHUZ9FC-iU/s400/10_iran2009.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Notice I. hormuzensis teeth</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal">If challenging water conditions were not enough, the area is exposed to extreme temperature changes. Winter temperatures range from 12-30 C while in summer this environment can swell up to 44+ C. Unlike many of the waterways associated with other cichlids, there is very little vegetation along the banks to provide any shade. This combined with the reduced water levels in the summer make for tough living.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">When discussions concerning the state of the fish in its native waterways with several people, including several prominent ichthyologists. Some think the fish is in serious peril because farmers are using the water for irrigation and industrialization of the region. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Iranocichla hormuzensis Fin Coloring</b></td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The other camp maintains that the fish is not at any greater risk than they previously faced based on limited distribution and tough environmental conditions. The thought process is that the region is so undesirable and desolate that it has escaped the industrialization found elsewhere. Without treatment, the water is too salty to be used for farming. We have not heard much middle ground and the opinions seem to be far apart.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis is an absolutely stunning fish when it matures. Iranocichla hormuzensis is relatively small at a maximum length of about 4". While somewhat undersized, it possesses a very stout body. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Juveniles are slightly elongated and one can clearly see the convex shape of the head developing early on. At this point, any hints of future coloration are non-existent. The young maintain a silver-green coloration with no pigmentation in the fins. Iranocichla hormuzensis their body exhibits 7- 11 vertical bars that become less obvious as the fish matures. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorsal_fin" rel="wikipedia" title="Dorsal fin">dorsal fin</a> contains an easily recognizable tilapia spot. In the description of the species, it is stated that males can be differentiated from females by a greater head length, larger <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_anatomy" rel="wikipedia" title="Fish anatomy">pelvic fins</a>, and greater interorbital width, but frankly I was unable to accurately sex these fish until they began to display certain behavior and color changes and when looking closely, you will begin to notice white spots on the silver fish. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Slowly the male begins to exhibit darkening shades of gray until it appears as a light black. When in breeding dress, the male is intensely black with white and turquoise iridescent spots scattered throughout the body and caudal fin and there are no spots on either the anal or pelvic fins; further the dorsal contains some spots, and has white banding that occurs in the otherwise black fin. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Speckling on the body begins behind the gill plate while the cranial region is black. If you look at other images and read through some of the limited source material available, you will find that males also appear with a <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_body" rel="wikipedia" title="Black body">black body</a> and a brick-red lower side along with the bottom portion of the jaw. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The species description mentions both of these variants without further elaboration on potential reasons for the differences. It could be diet, water condition, or locale variants, but all of this is simply non validated speculation. As additional taxonomic work is done with this cichlid you can fill some of the gaps in your knowledge base.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The females maintain the silver coloration and vertical barring and seem to darken a little bit but it is just very light gray without all the spotting. Unlike the males, the tilapia spot is easily seen in the females. The differentiation in hues of the females to a swaggering male makes could make a stunning display.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla</div><div class="MsoNormal">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla</div><div class="MsoNormal">Scientific classification</div><div class="MsoNormal">Kingdom: Animalia</div><div class="MsoNormal">Phylum: Chordata</div><div class="MsoNormal">Class: Actinopterygii</div><div class="MsoNormal">Order: Perciformes</div><div class="MsoNormal">Family: Cichlidae</div><div class="MsoNormal">Subfamily: Pseudocrenilabrinae</div><div class="MsoNormal">Tribe: Tilapiini</div><div class="MsoNormal">Genus: Iranocichla</div><div class="MsoNormal">Coad, 1982</div><div class="MsoNormal">Species: Iranocichla hormuzensis (Coad, 1982)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis is a species of mouthbrooding fish from the cichlid family. It is the only member of its genus, and reaches a length of about 10 centimetres (3.9 in).[1] It is restricted to freshwater and brackish habitats in southern Iran. It is the only species of cichlid native to this country, and among the few cichlids native to Asia. Although it has not been rated by the IUCN, some authorities believe it is highly threatened.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> ^ a b Froese, Rainer, and Daniel Pauly, eds. (2006); Species of Iranocichla- in FishBase; April 2006 version.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Stub icon: This tilapiine cichlid-related article is a stub. Iranocichla hormuzensis (Coad, 1982)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>By Dave Hansen</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I acquired my "group" of fish in November 2007. I say group, but it was only four individuals. This is a species I had been chasing for a number of years and was always near the top of my "must have" list. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I was appreciative to obtain Iranocichla hormuzensis, but will admit only having four individuals made me feel a little nervous. I was unsure of how to maintain them so this really didn't give me very much room for error.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis had just been released from the mother about 7 days previous to them coming into my possession and were extremely tiny. When I first gazed into the bag I couldn't even see the fry at all. I poured the contents of the bag into a coffee cup hoping it would be easier to see them. I made out 4 sets of tiny black eyes and breathed a sigh of relief.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I am not a scientist and the idea of playing chemist with water parameters had me a bit anxious. The key factor I was trying to determine was the salt content of the water. I had a couple of weeks to prep and enrolled the help of my fellow fish geek, Nick Andreola, to figure out how I was going to set the tank up. </div><div class="MsoNormal">The actual physical setup was easy; I prepared a 113 liter long as I would for any other cichlid I had maintained. I used a slightly oversized hang on the back filter and because I knew the fish were small I used a sponge over the intake tube to keep from siphoning them up into it. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Further I employed pool filter sand as the substrate and dotted it with several medium size pieces of holey rock and tied in some artificial silk plants. These fish are accustomed to warm water, so I submerged a heater into the tank and set the thermostat for 23C.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I filled the tank with water and looked at the volume of water and said to myself, "now what?" I had done as much research as possible on the specific waterways where these fish were found and as I mentioned earlier it varies wildly. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Even if I had exact readings, I had no idea how that would actually be executed in the tank. Nick was on the case though. I had total confidence he would figure this out for me. He called me to discuss and after listening to him explain in great detail; I had no idea what he was talking about. I don't think Stephen Hawking would know what he was talking about! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Nick had a mouthful of equations and numbers and you need this measuring device and oh by the way do you have access to an electron smasher? Maybe I added the last part, but this was giving me a headache. If these fish can't survive in my tank how in the heck will they avoid disappearing in the wild? </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I hung up with Nick and told him I would call him later after I absorbed his information. Hopefully he isn't still sitting by the phone. It took a little longer than it should have, but I decided to reach out to the few other hobbyists I knew of who had kept them to uncover their maintenance secrets. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I asked three people and got three different answers. One of them kept them in pure freshwater, another said a large soup spoon of salt per gallon, and the other said a small palm worth per gallon. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Great, what are your local tap water conditions; what size are the soup spoons in Europe, and how big are your hands? After fretting over this for a couple of weeks I decide I will use a soup spoon worth of salt per gallon. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I went to grab a spoon from the drawer and my wife asked what I was doing. I went into great detail to demonstrate how smart I was and I was using this spoon to salt the tank. "You are not using one of my nice spoons for your tanks" was her reply. She handed me a tablespoon from an old cutlery set and said I could have that one. So after weeks of research and discussion I am using a tablespoon of salt per gallon.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I had the tank prepared for a week before I received the fish. Once they were in my hands I slowly acclimated them to their home. I was in my fishroom constantly, checking on, and trying to count the four of them. I was never able to get above three and lost the one very early on and this kicked my stress level up a notch.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The fish has an elongated intestinal tract consistent with an algae based diet (Lamboj, pers comm.). I fed crushed spirulina flake for quite some time. Growth was slow, but they were growing and I considered this was a positive sign and of course during this point it came time to do my first water change. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I drained about 30% of the tank into a bucket and then poured the bucket into a gallon milk jug to precisely measure how much water I had taken out of the tank. I was determined to replace the salt content grain for grain. Half the water ended up on the floor as I was pouring it into the milk jugs. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis was my first foray into any type of fishkeeping involving salt and it wasn't going well. I have had prouder moments in the hobby than this disaster in the making. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Water was seeping all over the floor and I had no idea how much salt to replenish. Keep in mind how difficult the conditions are that these fish exist in the wild and this makes all of this obsessing bordering on silly. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I was living in the moment though and determined to do this right. In hindsight I am sure a little less/more salt wouldn't have bothered them much. I now use guesstimation and mix some salt and water into a bucket to fill the tank back up. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I mixed it well and proceeded to siphon the water into the tank from the bucket. The bucket was empty. I looked in the pail and 90% of the salt had stayed in the bottom of the bucket. I walked over and shut the door to the fishroom; I didn't need my family witnessing this spectacle. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I grabbed the hose and went about filling the tank back up. I reached for the spoon, estimated what I needed to get close, and called it good. I attentively watched the fish for the next couple of hours waiting for them to keel over from the shock to their system they must surely have been experiencing. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Amazingly they survived their first water change; subsequent water changes went much smoother and I operated under the motto, "What doesn't kill them only makes them stronger". I drained the water, added dechlor, and slowly filled the water up and added salt as I was filling and it worked fine; as I discovered while tinkering with water parameters, these fish appear to be extremely hardy.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I had no false illusions that this trio would be breeding anytime soon. The dialogue I had developed with the other hobbyists, keeping I. hormuzensis was a wonderful source of information. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It would be around 24 months before I could expect them to breed. I was concentrating on maintaining healthy fish while focused on water changes and feeding. Three fish in a 113 liter tank was not taxing the filtration system at all, but I performed a rigorous schedule of 30% weekly water changes. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In addition to the spirulina flake I introduced algae tabs and the occasional protein flake which were greedily consumed. The fish were putting on size and aggression was not yet an issue. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Despite no dithers or target fish in the aquarium they were not a shy species at all. I enjoyed watching them slowly develop. After a year, one of the individuals began transforming from silver to a light gray. Over a few months the coloration became a darker and darker gray until eventually the body was light black and the speckling became a bit more prominent during this time frame as well. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There were still no signs of real aggression but this developing male had one side of the tank to himself and the other two tended to keep to the other side. All three would move freely without any aggression issues but the tendency of the group was to stay on their own sides. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The male was really coming into his own in regards to his coloration and was now in full bloom. This did not translate into any courting behavior though. Several months went by and the other two fish were starting to spar somewhat. As time drew on, a full out battle between the two females ensued. The two females spent several weeks rushing at each other and jaw locking. I was observing this closely as I could not afford to lose any of the fish. Despite the battle royal no visible damage was being done to either fish. Eventually this activity subsided and one of the females was now hanging out with the male in his rock pile. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">By no means were they exhibiting pairing behavior, but were definitely getting along enough to allow each other in the same area. The other fish stayed in her half of the tank. I have not seen any fighting between those two since that one frenzied period. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The male was now in breeding coloration at all times and could be seen displaying to the female often. He would sashay across the tank and court the other female as well. This went on for several weeks before I actually witnessed a female with buccal cavity full of eggs. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Over several months I had a female holding three times and never more than a week. The next time it happened I decided I would strip the eggs and tumble them. Unfortunately there has not been a next time. While the male has maintained his vibrant hues and occasionally shimmies up to a female, there has been almost zero courting behavior.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">More time passes I determine it is time to start tinkering with some water parameters to see if I can trigger a spawning. The nervousness I exhibited a couple of years ago is now gone and I am not too concerned about playing mad scientist. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Many fish will spawn during a rainy season because they have learned that along with the rain come enhanced food sources. The first thing I do is to slowly lower the salt content in the tank. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Once lowered, I would maintain it for at least a month. By the time I have tweaked it down as far as I felt comfortable with; the salt levels were about 25% of the original quantity. This wasn't working. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Next I varied the diet and begin feeding mosquito larvae I was collecting in a bucket outside. I also increased the frequency of the protein flake. With little effect, I tried a different brand of food, again, with no luck. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The next factor to alter was temperature. I began by lowering the temperature of the heater and eventually turned it off. The lowest temperature the water reached was about 18C. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I also proceeded to alter the salt content again as I was experimenting with the temperature. Once this failed to trigger any responses I began to crank the temperature up and had the heater up to 31C before deciding not to go any higher. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I will admit while I was frustrated it was an enjoyable challenge as well. These fish were making me work to entice a spawning and I was having fun trying to outsmart them. After many months of this I still had nothing as far as spawns, but still had 3 healthy fish that appeared no worse for wear.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I reached out to a friend who wasn't having any luck and he was able to pass along 4 females from his group all in the name of getting this species to breed. While there has been increased courting behavior only one spawn has been witnessed and it was aborted several days later. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The shifting of parameters has resumed and different variations are being attempted. I have a friend who has proven he can spawn almost anything. He lives close by and we have moved the fish over to his house so he is working with them as well. It is more important to me to achieve a spawn and be able to share these fish than it is to keep them in my fishroom just for the sake of having them.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The slightly alarming sequel to my story is that most of the other known groups in captivity have stopped spawning and no one is producing any fry.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Iranocichla hormuzensis has been the most challenging fish I have kept to date and I am as enthusiastic today about them as I was when I was lucky enough to obtain them. It is an absolutely stunning fish that would be the highlight of any collection.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> I hope the attempts to spawn this fish are successful and more people will get the opportunity to enjoy them. This will only lead to more awareness of a beautiful cichlid and assist in expanding our knowledge base. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640487699"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton® Meter, Multi-Parameter" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image003.jpg" width="51" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Oakton« pH TESTR™ 10" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image004.jpg" width="43" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488350"><span style="text-decoration: none;"></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Oakton« pH Eco Testr™ 2" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image005.jpg" width="100" /></a><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245268"><span style="text-decoration: none;"></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516428"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="H-Series H138 Elite miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set" border="0" height="96" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image006.jpg" width="100" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516426"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="H-Series H135 Professional miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set" border="0" height="96" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image007.jpg" width="100" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516424"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="H-Series H130 One-Point miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set" border="0" height="96" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image008.jpg" width="100" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640487699">pH Pocket Pal Tester</a><br />
$62.99</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488350">Oakton« pH TESTR™ 10</a><br />
$98.05</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245268">Oakton« pH Eco Testr™ 2</a><br />
$68.89</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516428">H-Series H138 Elite miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set</a><br />
$299.00</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516426">H-Series H135 Professional miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set</a><br />
$249.00</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640516424">H-Series H130 One-Point miniLab ISFET pH Meter with Calibration Buffer Set</a><br />
$199.00</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="margin-top: 3.75pt;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=1160376980790636060" id="cond" name="cond"></a>Conductivity Testers</h3>Quick, Reliable Conductivity Testers<br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640244699"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton« Conductivity Testr™ High Range, 0-19.90MS/CM, OAKTON" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image009.jpg" width="90" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245250"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton« Conductivity Testr™ Low Range, 0-1990US/CM" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image009.jpg" width="90" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488356"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Conductivity Tester, Pocket Pal™" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image010.jpg" width="54" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640244699">Oakton« Conductivity Testr™ High Range, 0-19.90MS/CM, OAKTON</a><br />
$66.25</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245250">Oakton« Conductivity Testr™ Low Range, 0-1990US/CM</a><br />
$66.25</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488356">Conductivity Tester, Pocket Pal™</a><br />
$72.25</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="margin-top: 3.75pt;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=1160376980790636060" id="tds" name="tds"></a>TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) Testers</h3>Quick, reliable TDS testers for a wide range of applications<br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245254"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton« Total Dissolved Solids Eco Testr™, Low Range, 0-1990 PPM" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image011.jpg" width="90" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245267"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton« Total Dissolved Solids Eco Testr™, High Range, 0-10.00 PPT" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image011.jpg" width="90" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488357"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Pocket Pal TDS Tester (10-1990 TDS)" border="0" height="88" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image012.jpg" width="100" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245254">Oakton« Total Dissolved Solids Eco Testr™, Low Range, 0-1990 PPM</a><br />
$66.25</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245267">Oakton« Total Dissolved Solids Eco Testr™, High Range, 0-10.00 PPT</a><br />
$66.25</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488357">Pocket Pal TDS Tester (10-1990 TDS)</a><br />
$72.25</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="margin-top: 3.75pt;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=1160376980790636060" id="orp" name="orp"></a>ORP (Oxidation-Reduction Potential) Testers</h3>Quick, reliable ORP testers for a wide range of applications<br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245252"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="ORP Testr® 10" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image013.jpg" width="33" /></span></a></div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640224302"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="ORP Pocket Pal™ Tester" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image014.jpg" width="51" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245252">ORP Testr® 10</a><br />
$211.00</div></td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640224302">ORP Pocket Pal™ Tester</a><br />
$111.00</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="margin-top: 3.75pt;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=1160376980790636060" id="salinity" name="salinity"></a>Salinity Testers</h3>Quick, reliable Salinity tester for a wide range of applications<br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245261"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Oakton® Low Range Salinity Tester, 0 - 10.00ppt" border="0" height="100" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image015.jpg" width="29" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640245261">Oakton® Low Range Salinity Tester, 0 - 10.00ppt</a><br />
$115.00</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="margin-top: 3.75pt;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=340851938956769798&postID=1160376980790636060" id="temp" name="temp"></a>Temperature Testers</h3>Quick, reliable Temperature tester for a wide range of applications<br />
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<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488355"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><img alt="Pocket Pal Temperature Tester" border="0" height="85" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JCPREV%7E1.JC-/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image016.jpg" width="100" /></span></a></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 0.75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.hach.com/product.detail-overview.jsa?id=7640488355">Pocket Pal Temperature Tester</a><br />
$60.89</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -0.75in;"><br />
</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=32410df5-b7cf-4577-b2fc-6a2bb8a99d02" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-76503638335839428272012-02-14T18:57:00.000-08:002012-02-16T09:43:44.383-08:00Etroplus maculatus- India and Sri Lanka, Asian Cichlid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIpSwq0wwGeBAQqR5XY5aMxsFkxZoKzTPNseTsm_6fhp4kl0f6VC8xpee6VFl1ufG7-5LRityf0GAMbn58aKkg_FTnAA8t_f73lUv2a2GxYnqXJWuDI9yw3GyIhQ4w5X7UjQVBCtoe7w/s1600/images-Orange+Chromide+-+Etroplus+maculatus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIpSwq0wwGeBAQqR5XY5aMxsFkxZoKzTPNseTsm_6fhp4kl0f6VC8xpee6VFl1ufG7-5LRityf0GAMbn58aKkg_FTnAA8t_f73lUv2a2GxYnqXJWuDI9yw3GyIhQ4w5X7UjQVBCtoe7w/s400/images-Orange+Chromide+-+Etroplus+maculatus.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etroplus" rel="wikipedia" title="Etroplus">Etroplus</a> maculatus,</b><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_chromide" rel="wikipedia" title="Orange chromide">Orange Chromide</a></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etroplus" rel="wikipedia" title="Etroplus">Etroplus</a> maculatus</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_chromide" rel="wikipedia" title="Orange chromide">Orange Chromide</a> </b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html">These species live</a> in the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brackish_water" rel="wikipedia" title="Brackish water">brackish water</a> estuaries and lagoons of India and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=6.9,79.9&spn=10.0,10.0&q=6.9,79.9%20%28Sri%20Lanka%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Sri Lanka">Sri Lanka</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Two or three species, belonging to the genus Etroplus, are found on the Asian Continent.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/PNZdRRCvHBE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SYN:</b> Chaetodon maculatus, Etroplus coruchi</div><div class="MsoNormal">PD: <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html">Slightly elongated, oval-shaped fish and the body is yellow to bright orange</a> in color with several rows of small red-orange spots that mark the body; there are three, short transverse bars are located near the mid-section of the body and the lower sections of the body could be marked with a large black areas. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/_9Iv-83sfmM/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_9Iv-83sfmM&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_9Iv-83sfmM&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The belly is usually light orange while the fins are transparent with an orange tint and the fins are held close to the body and the tail is slightly forked; further their eye is dark and large and the pelvic and anal fin is usually black.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SIZE:</b> To 3.5" (9 cm)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SS:</b> None</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>HAB</b>: Southwestern Asia; inhabits shallow areas of coastal, brackish rivers and lagoons in India and Sri Lanka.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>S:</b> bottom, middle</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>TANK:</b> A 24" (50 cm) tank with a capacity of 15 gallons (57 L) can be used. Use a fine gravel or preferably coral sand bottom with scattered rocks. Supply shelter and retreats with rocks, wood, and roots. Plants that can tolerate brackish water can be used. The tank should be in a position to receive morning sunlight.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>WATER</b>: <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH" rel="wikipedia" title="PH">pH 7</a>-9 (8.0), 5-30 DH (18), 68-84°F (20-29°C). A 1 to 1.5% addition of salt is recommended. This can be accomplished by adding 7.5 to 11 TSP. of salt to 10 gallons of water (10-15 g of salt/10 L).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SB:</b> A peaceful, non-destructive cichlid that can be kept in a brackish water <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community_aquarium" rel="wikipedia" title="Community aquarium">community tank</a>. The Orange Chromide can also be kept in a freshwater community tank, <b><i><u><span style="color: #3366ff;">although salt must be added.</span></u></i></b> <i>Orange Chromide is best</i> kept in pairs and let pairs select themselves and from a selection of 6-8 juveniles; they pair form monogamous bonds and later nuclear families.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SC:</b> Livebearers, Danios, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celebes_rainbow" rel="wikipedia" title="Celebes rainbow">Celebes Rainbow</a> fish, other Rainbow fish, Chanda, Halfbeaks, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brachygobius" rel="wikipedia" title="Brachygobius">Brachygobius</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>FOOD:</b> Algae; live; brine shrimp, other crustaceans; whit worms; tablets; flakes; pellets. Feeding <i>Orange Chromide </i>this species should be feed color-enhancing foods fortified with beta-carotene this will bring out its reddish hues.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>SEX:</b> Males have a red edge to their anal dorsal and <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_anatomy" rel="wikipedia" title="Fish anatomy">caudal fins</a>, and generally have brighter colors and these differences are somewhat unreliable.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>BREEDING:</b> An addition of a small amount of sea water and a slight increase in temperature will help initiate the spawning. 200-300 eggs are laid on previously cleaned rocks, wood, and roots. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>EGGS</b>: The black eggs adhere to the surface in short little stems and both parents guard the eggs with hatch in 3-6 days. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spawn_%28biology%29" rel="wikipedia" title="Spawn (biology)">FRY</a>:</b> The fry are taken to pits where the parents continue their care and the fry attach themselves to the flanks of the parents where they appear to receive some sort of nourishment perhaps similar to Discus. The fry are free-swimming a few days after and can be raised on Artesia nuclei and rotifers. Be sure to keep an adequate amount of salt in the water so the eggs or the fry are not to suffer from fungal infections. The fry are slow-growing and very sensitive to changes in water conditions. Parental care may continue for up to four months.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>BP:</b> 7. Breeding is moderately difficult.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>R:</b> If the Orange Chromide is keep in fresh water without any salt, their colors will fade, as will their appetites and they will be subject to fungal infections. The Orange Chromide serves as a cleaner fish for the Banded Chromide. This fish is very sensitive to changes in water chemistry, thus try to perform very frequent, small water changes instead of occasional large ones. This timid fish needs retreats and hiding places in order to develop its attractive colors. There are two common color variations, the original orange strain, and a golden strain.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>DC:</b> 5. an attractive, but delicate species that is a good candidate for a peaceful, brackish-water community tank.</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=4306608a-9dee-4d37-8390-c06ccf493ace" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-12390950421762007432012-01-29T21:39:00.000-08:002012-02-01T10:58:31.725-08:00Aquarium Fish-Keeping Cichlids, Breeding cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"></span> <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Group Cichlids-Photo by georgiaaquarium.org</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">People begin keeping <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresh_water" style="color: orange;" title="Fresh water">fresh water</a><span style="color: orange;"> </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" style="color: orange;" title="Cichlid">cichlids</a><span style="color: orange;"> </span>a</b>nd purchase new aquarium because of their beauty. With the variety of colors and shapes, it's not unlike saltwater <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium" style="color: #bf9000;" title="Aquarium">fish tank</a><span style="color: #bf9000;"> </span></b>without the fuss and expense of <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seawater" rel="wikipedia" title="Seawater">salt water</a> tank, without the salt or the upkeep of salt <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_tank" style="color: orange;" title="Water tank">water fish</a></b><span style="color: orange;"> </span>tank!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">However before long, some people become interested in breeding <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" title="Cichlid">cichlids</a>, rather than just having them. Quite often this is due to the cichlids breeding without any intervention on the aquarist's part, who thereafter becomes interested in keeping the next batch of fry.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">By and large, the majority of African cichlids are mouthbrooders. This means that the <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egg_%28biology%29" style="color: orange;" title="Egg (biology)">eggs</a></b> are actually brooded in one of the parents' <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mouth" style="color: #e69138;" title="Mouth">mouth</a><span style="color: #e69138;"> </span></b>- typically the female cichlid's <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mouth" rel="wikipedia" title="Mouth">mouth</a>. Other types of cichlids (<b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_dwellers" style="color: #e69138;" title="Shell dwellers">shell dwellers</a></b> for example) they are egglayer cichlids. How do you get your cichlids to breed? How can you protect the female, and ensure that the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egg_%28biology%29" rel="wikipedia" title="Egg (biology)">eggs</a> hatch successfully? And then how do you protect the young from hungry predators?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">The first step in breeding cichlids is to obtain fish that will breed. While this may seem obvious, it's not as simple as obtaining a male and female of the same species of tropical fish. With African cichlids, it's much better to obtain a harem, quite often referred to as a <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bird_colony" style="color: orange;" title="Bird colony">breeding colony</a></b>. If you only have a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">When you have your breeding colony, you'll want to give them a good environment. Have plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices that the cichlids can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother with aquarium plants; they'll only be removed by the cichlids!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">To get your African cichlids in breeding condition, you need to feed them well. I've always found spirulina flakes to be excellent quality food, as well as the occasional earthworm, white worm or crickets and live bay shrimp.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">When the fish are ready to breed, you'll notice the male chase the female and do a mating dance, which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will drop eggs, and then proceed to pick them up in her mouth. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">The male will <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilisation" title="Fertilisation">fertilize</a> them. It has been theorized that this is where the 'egg spots' come into play. The egg spots are the small round yellowish spots on the male's anal fin. Many feel that when the male shimmies, these look like eggs that the female hasn't yet collected. She attempts to, and the eggs that are in her mouth are able to be fertilized by the male.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">The process will be repeated a number of times, until the female loses interest (just like people!). If the eggs weren't properly fertilized, they will be disposed of. If they're fertilized, they will be kept until the eggs are hatched and the yolk sacks have disappeared. This can take from three to five weeks.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">If you want to keep the baby cichlids, I strongly suggest that you remove the female to a comfortable tank for the female cichlid a place of her own. This can be a smaller tank, with some rockwork for her to hide in. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">You don't need to feed her, although when the eggs hatch (you'll see the wigglers in her mouth) you may want to toss in a very small amount of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium_fish_feed" title="Aquarium fish feed">flake food</a>. She may pick at it for the sake of the fry. There will be a follow-up article explaining how to strip the female cichlid, a process necessary if she won't release the eggs or if she eats them.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">To feed the babies, you can crush up some <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium_fish_feed" rel="wikipedia" title="Aquarium fish feed">flake food</a> into a fine powder. Take a little, mix it with water. Then suck it into a straw of piece of aquarium tubing. Then insert it into the water near the swimming cichlid fry, and release it for them to eat.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Allow the female cichlid to feed back to health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the fry with her for at least 1 week.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">There are over 160 genera and more than 900 species of Cichlids with newly discovered species reported on a regular basis. This group offers a huge diversity of color, behavior, size, and body shape. Cichlids are widespread throughout the world, including </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Africa</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_America" rel="wikipedia" title="South America">South America</a></span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Asia</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_America" rel="wikipedia" title="Central America">Central America</a></span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, and even </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">North America</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">All these Cichlids come from only one family, Cichlidae, and thus are separated in this book by the geographical area from which they are found. Most Cichlids kept in captivity come from the Great African <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rift_Valley_lakes" rel="wikipedia" title="Rift Valley lakes">Rift Lakes</a>, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-12.1833333333,34.3666666667&spn=0.1,0.1&q=-12.1833333333,34.3666666667%20%28Lake%20Malawi%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Lake Malawi">Lake Malawi</a> or <a class="zem_slink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-6.5,29.8333333333&spn=0.1,0.1&q=-6.5,29.8333333333%20%28Lake%20Tanganyika%29&t=h" rel="geolocation" title="Lake Tanganyika">Lake Tanganyika</a>; various African rivers, the <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amazon_Basin" rel="wikipedia" title="Amazon Basin">Amazon Basin</a> in South America, or Central America.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_behavior" rel="wikipedia" title="Social behavior">SOCIAL BEHAVIOR</a></span></b></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></b></span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/3wDEfS2hVkc?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">The <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichlid" rel="wikipedia" title="Cichlid">Cichlid Family</a> includes a huge, diverse group of fish. Thus, it is difficult to make generalizations about this family. However, it is safe to say that many cichlids have a tendency towards aggressive behavior. This conduct can be attributed to cichlids' highly developed brood care. Other cichlids are shoaling fish which are best kept in groups like </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">PAIRING:</span></b>- several different types of bonds are formed between male and female cichlids. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/adcygbcqzxI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">These include the following:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Monogamy-The female and the male remain together after spawning.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Polygyny- The male stays together with several females</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Polyandry- The female bonds with several males. This form of pairing is rare.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Agamy- No lasting bond is formed between the pair and they separate right after spawning.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">BROOD CARE</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Cichlids take care of their young in several different ways. Six "family" forms are common among cichlid parents. <br />
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Nuclear or Parental Family: Both parents equally share the duties of caring for the young. Nuclear families are usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders, although exceptions are common. It is generally very difficult to distinguish between the sexes. <br />
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Matriarch/Patriarch Family: The female watches over the brood, while the male defends the territory. When the fry become free-swimming, the parents bear the tasks of parenthood equally. This family form is usually formed by monogamous, open-water brooders. Sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is common.<br />
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Patriarch/Matriarch or Male-with-Harem Family: The male defends a large territory, which includes multiple spawning sites of several females. Each female assumes the responsibility of her own brood. The male is polygamous, and clear sexual dimorphism is present. This form takes place among cavity brooders.<br />
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Matriarch Family: No bond is formed between the pair. The female cares and guards the eggs and the fry. In this family pattern, the fish are agamous and usually the female is an Ovophile mouthbrooder.<br />
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Patriarch Family: As with the Matriarch Family, no bond is formed between the parents. The male carries the eggs and the fry. No sexual dimorphism or dichromatism can be found. Only one mouthbrooder forms a true patriarch family, Sarotherodon melanothe row.<br />
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Extended Family: The parents as well as the offspring of previous spawning care for the young. Extended Families are formed by cavity brooders of </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Lake Tanganyika</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, including the fish belonging to the genera Julidochromis and Neolamprologus. <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">BREEDING<br />
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Cichlids have highly developed brood care and reproductive behavior. Nearly all Cichlids lay their eggs on some substrate, whether it be rocks, plants, or sand. Cichlids are now characterized into two breeding groups; Open and Shelter Brooders.<br />
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Open brooders lay eggs on an open surface, such as rocks, sand, and plants. The eggs can number as high as 10,000 from one laying. These eggs are usually small and clump together. Clear sexual dimorphism and dichromatism is usually evident. Examples of open water brooders include Pterophyllum, Symphysodon, and most species of Cichlasoma.<br />
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Shelter brooders can be divided up into two groups; cavity brooders and mouth brooders. Thereby in general, shelter brooders lay substantially less eggs, usually not more than 300, and have larger more colorful eggs. These fish are easier to sex because males are larger and more colorful.<br />
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Cavity brooders lay their eggs in caves. The parents participate in brood care and may become aggressive towards other fish while caring for the eggs and the fry. Examples of cavity brooders include Apistogramma, Julidochromis, Neolamprologus, and Pelvicachromis.<br />
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Mouth-brooders are fish that, at some point during brood care, will take their eggs or the fry into their mouths. Mouth-brooders are divided up into two further categories depending on when the parents take the eggs/fry are taken into the mouth. <br />
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Ovophile or "egg-loving" mouth-brooders - The male makes a pit in his territory, where the eggs are laid. The eggs are sucked up into the female's mouth usually, but occasionally, during spawning. After hatching the fry remain in the safety of the mother's mouth until they can fend for themselves. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">The male, of some of these species, often has colorful, oval-shaped marks on its anal fin. These spots serve an important role in the fertilization of the eggs and are known as egg spots or egg dummies. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">After the female has laid her eggs and sucks them into her mouth. She sees the eggs spots on the males, and thinking they were eggs she missed, will try to suck them up. At this moment the male releases sperm which the female sucks up into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs. Such as Ovophile mouthbrooders include- Aulonocara, Haplochromis, and Pseudotropheus.<br />
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Larvophile or "larvae-loving" mouth-brooders lay their eggs on a substrate. After the eggs hatch, the female picks up the fry and keeps them in her mouth. Sometimes the parental protection stops after the fry are released from the mouth; Examples of Larvophile mouth-brooders are Geophagus and Sarotherodon.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DUMMY-EGG SPOTS</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Many cichlids, especially those of </span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Lake Malawi</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">, have colored patches on the anal fin which serve to aid spawning. These patches are known as egg-spots, dummy eggs, egg dummies, or false egg spots. These spots are especially important in the fertilization of the real eggs. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">When the female takes the real eggs into her mouth, the male spreads his anal fin, displaying his egg spots. The female sees these and sucks at them assuming that they are real eggs. At that moment the male releases sperm, which the female sucks into her mouth, thus fertilizing the eggs.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">FEEDING</span></b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"> </span><object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/_yxSuNYJU_s/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_yxSuNYJU_s&fs=1&source=uds" /> <param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /> <embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_yxSuNYJU_s&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div><br />
<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Since there is such a variety of cichlid species, cichlids have a wide range of feeding habits. However most cichlids have an enormous appetite and are easily fed. <br />
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Omnivorous cichlids make up the greatest majority of cichlids. In nature, these fish feed mostly on insects, crustaceans, and worms, but at times also eat plants. Thus in aquaria these species should be offered a mixed diet of live foods, flakes foods, and plant or vegetable matter. Examples of omnivorous cichlids include Cichlasomines, many West African species, Angelfish, and Herosspecies. <br />
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Carnivorous cichlids are predatory species which are specialized for eating other fish. Generally these species will eat small tank mates, although not fish of a similar size. In aquaria, carnivorous cichlids can be fed live fish, worms, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans, but also some will accept pellets, tablets, and large flakes. Examples of carnivorous cichlids are many Haplochromines, Pike Cichlids (genus Crenicichla), Cyphotilapia and Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) species.<br />
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Herbivorous cichlids are species that prefer to feed on plant matter. These fish will eat live aquarium plants. In aquaria, herbivorous cichlids feed on plant-based flake and pellet foods, plants, and vegetables. Some species will also feed on live foods. Examples of herbivorous cichlids include some of the Tilapia species and majority of the Mbuna cichlids are herbivores, Pseudotropheus crabro, – A Malawi Cichlid, The Peacock cichlids. <br />
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Some species of herbivorous cichlids feed on the thick algae growing on rocks. Living in the algae are micro-organisms and crustaceans known as Aufwuchs. Types of cichlids that consume the algae and the Aufwuchs living within include Lake Malawi Mbunas and Lake Tanganyika Tropheus. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">STRIPPING</span></b></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"> </span></b></span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/4aIlNLBhU78?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Once we have a case in which stripping must be performed, there are some rules to follow in order to make it safer for you and your fish. <b style="color: #e69138;"><i><u>B</u></i></b><b><i style="color: #e69138;"><u>efore handling the female WASH YOUR HANDS ALL THE WAY TO YOUR ELBOWS THOUGHTLY WITH SOAP AND WATER AND DRY OFF be sure to wet your hands in the tank, dry fingers can damage the protective mucus or even tear scales apart. </u></i></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Hold her body firmly but without pressing it, and use a wide bowl to keep the head under the water while you gently open her mouth with a paper clip, Q-tip, etc., and allow the eggs to fall to the bottom. It’s been most peoples experience with few exceptions, rarely do they get any viable fry when stripped the next day after spawning. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Tahoma;">Most people prefer to wait at least five days, after the eggs have hatched and then place them inside their filter. Most people prefer using the "hang on" type of filter that returns the water to the tank as a small waterfall. They place the eggs in a net (to avoid the waterfall dragging them) so they receive a continuous flow of clear oxygenated water.<br />
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Any white, fungused eggs must be quickly removed away from the viable ones. Survival rates are over 90%. Of course breeders will develop techniques and skills that fit their tank set up and the species they keep.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</script></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-52027979014949136682012-01-18T00:52:00.007-08:002012-03-27T17:14:37.877-07:00Site Map: African Cichlids Fish<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6s8xBoSL3aL9XbBsObCADgR-8v5fcsSyMvHONTzcJvISrhQxjJmCOLqNNKYc4XKeUQeMshOTGpRvXlz0cMzBz7Iu8t6G3erMOfZv5AqhNDh2jc7zEPIDc2AP2-N1ZD0fft9hKmSVAZGQ/s640/images-site+map.jpg" width="489" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div id="cont"><h1> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XML" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="XML">XML</a> <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Site_map" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Site map">Sitemap</a></h1><h3><a href="http://pro.xml-sitemaps.com/"><span style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(255, 0, 0); color: white;">PRO</span>.xml-sitemaps.com</a> Total <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uniform_Resource_Locator" rel="wikipedia" target="_blank" title="Uniform Resource Locator">URLs</a> in this sitemap file: 72</h3><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th><br />
</th><th>URL</th><th>Last Modified</th><th>Change Frequency</th><th>Priority</th></tr>
<tr><td>1</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>1.0000</td></tr>
<tr><td>2</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/aquarium-plant-easy-fast-growing.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>3</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/convict-cichlids-christmas-moss.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>4</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/nitrate-balancing-act.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>5</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/electric-yellow-lab-cichlid-is-lake.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/electric-yellow-lab-cichlid-is-lake.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>6</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/courtship-in-monogamous-convict-cichlid.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/courtship-in-monogamous-convict-cichlid.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>7</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/convict-cichlid-archocentrus-cichlidae.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/03/convict-cichlid-archocentrus-cichlidae.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>8</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/wolf-cichlid-parachromis-dovii.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>9</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/cichlid-types-africian-central-america.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>10</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-too-identify-fin-rot.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-too-identify-fin-rot.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>11</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquariums-for-restaurants-and-bars_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquariums-for-restaurants-and-bars_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>12</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_23.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_23.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>13</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/liquid-rubber-for-ponds-and-plywood.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/liquid-rubber-for-ponds-and-plywood.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>14</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blood-parrot-cichlid-anatomical.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>15</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blue-dolphin-cichlid-lipid-metallic.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/blue-dolphin-cichlid-lipid-metallic.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>16</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/african-jewelfish-diet-reproduction-ph.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/african-jewelfish-diet-reproduction-ph.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>17</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/10/live-crickets-care-breeding-and-feeding.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/10/live-crickets-care-breeding-and-feeding.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>18</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_03_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_03_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>19</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_02_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_02_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>20</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/vallisneria-spiralis-italian-vals.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/vallisneria-spiralis-italian-vals.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>21</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/anubias-nana-pette-beautiful-anubias.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/anubias-nana-pette-beautiful-anubias.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>22</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/iranocichla-hormuzensis-iran-cichlid.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/iranocichla-hormuzensis-iran-cichlid.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>23</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/etroplus-maculatus-india-and-sri-lanka.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/02/etroplus-maculatus-india-and-sri-lanka.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>24</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_01_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012_01_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>25</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-kept-freshwater-cichlids.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-kept-freshwater-cichlids.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>26</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>27</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>28</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>29</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>30</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_12_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_12_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>31</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>32</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>33</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/eggs-everywhere-what-do-i-do.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/eggs-everywhere-what-do-i-do.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>34</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/c-frontosa-cichlid-cant-deal-with.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/c-frontosa-cichlid-cant-deal-with.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>35</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/congress-chooses-hells-fury.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/congress-chooses-hells-fury.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>36</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/keeping-and-breeding-green-terror.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>37</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/site-map-african-cichlids-fish.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>38</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_10_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>39</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>40</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-raise-white-worms-for-aquarium.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-raise-white-worms-for-aquarium.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>41</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tilapia_23.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tilapia_23.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>42</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/african-cichlids-fish.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/african-cichlids-fish.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>43</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-get-rid-of-green-hair-algae-in.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-get-rid-of-green-hair-algae-in.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>44</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/brighten-up-your-saltwater-aquarium_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/brighten-up-your-saltwater-aquarium_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>45</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/glass-aquariums_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/glass-aquariums_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>46</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-equipment-do-i-need-to-become-fish_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-equipment-do-i-need-to-become-fish_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>47</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-firemouth_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>48</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishville-secrets-and-cheats_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishville-secrets-and-cheats_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>49</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-ornaments-can-you-put-in-your_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/what-ornaments-can-you-put-in-your_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>50</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/avoid-black-algae-in-your-fish-tank.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/avoid-black-algae-in-your-fish-tank.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>51</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/is-fish-tank-light-harmful-for-your_13.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/is-fish-tank-light-harmful-for-your_13.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>52</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tropical-fish-white-spot.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tropical-fish-white-spot.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>53</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/here-are-some-fish-diseases-that-can.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/here-are-some-fish-diseases-that-can.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>54</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-fish-breeding-things-to_11.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/cichlid-fish-breeding-things-to_11.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>55</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-raising-and-breeding-cichlid_11.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-raising-and-breeding-cichlid_11.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>56</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-hard-water-stains-on-home_04.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-hard-water-stains-on-home_04.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>57</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/care-of-live-aquarium-plants.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/care-of-live-aquarium-plants.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>58</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_01_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_01_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.8000</td></tr>
<tr><td>59</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/diy-driftwood-for-aquarium_04.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>60</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/proper-temperature-for-tropical.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/proper-temperature-for-tropical.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>61</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishes-in-relation-to-world-of-feng.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/fishes-in-relation-to-world-of-feng.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>62</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-upkeep-basics.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-upkeep-basics.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>63</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-grow-daphnia-for-aquarium.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-grow-daphnia-for-aquarium.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>64</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-good-and-bad-algae.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/09/aquarium-good-and-bad-algae.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>65</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_13_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_13_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>66</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_11_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_11_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>67</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_10_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_10_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>68</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_04_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_04_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>69</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_02_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_09_02_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>70</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_29_archive.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011_08_29_archive.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>71</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/guide-to-stocking-tropical-freshwater.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/guide-to-stocking-tropical-freshwater.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
<tr><td>72</td><td><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-keep-lake-malawi-african.html">http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-keep-lake-malawi-african.html</a></td><td>2012-03-27T23:22:47+00:00</td><td>daily</td><td>0.6400</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDaZADqMisXmJGKSyB7e7msVxYumz6ZkSWsGBA-6xtqmRbfLD_I-EcT61H5g5xxGQfVRSxT_zHc31UAeeEF8vNVsjgZcDJ2YTdZKTnn1KVkjAdmkcg_xLRuVTneuueH6xBcpqbUtwP0p8/s1600/finrot4-Cichlid+tail+and+fin+rot.jpg-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDaZADqMisXmJGKSyB7e7msVxYumz6ZkSWsGBA-6xtqmRbfLD_I-EcT61H5g5xxGQfVRSxT_zHc31UAeeEF8vNVsjgZcDJ2YTdZKTnn1KVkjAdmkcg_xLRuVTneuueH6xBcpqbUtwP0p8/s400/finrot4-Cichlid+tail+and+fin+rot.jpg-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Cichlid Fin and Tail <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fin_rot" rel="wikipedia" style="color: black;" title="Fin rot">Fin Rot</a> </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fin_rot" rel="wikipedia" title="Fin rot"> <span style="color: black;">Photo By en.wikipedis.org/wiki/Fin_rot</span></a></b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Fish illness-fin rot is a general term for necrotic loss of fin tissue, resulting in split or ragged fins. It is usually the edge of the fin that is attacked, although occasionally a hole may appear in the middle of the fin. The appearance of fin rot can vary between a distinct, semi-circular “bite” shape and a “shredded” effect and this is true for any <b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish" rel="wikipedia" title="Fish">fish</a></b><b><span style="color: black;"> whether </span></b><b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koi" rel="wikipedia" title="Koi">Koi</a>, Cichlids, Goldfish, Betta.Fish, </b><b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neon_tetra" rel="wikipedia" title="Neon tetra">Neon Tetra</a>'s</b><b><span style="color: black;">.</span></b></span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><u><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Fin Rot Reddening or <i>Inflamation</i></span></b></u><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/GLpczx7pOvE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><span style="font-size: small;">Inflammation in humans is primary cause of heart failure what had been discovered inflammation in any animal can be deadly. The informational edge of the lesion is usually opaque or whitish. In advanced cases there may be some reddening or <b><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inflammation" rel="wikipedia" style="color: black;" title="Inflammation">inflammation</a><span style="color: orange;"><span style="color: black;">.</span> </span></b>The main threat from this fish disease is, if left untreated fin rot can slowly eat away the entire fin along with the fin rays and start to invade the fish’s body, leading to peduncle disease if the <b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_anatomy" rel="wikipedia" title="Fish anatomy">caudal (tail) fin</a></b> is involved, or saddleback ulcer if the dorsal (top) fin is affected.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Koi Fin Rot</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Fin rot is a bacterial disease involving opportunistic bacteria such as <i><b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aeromonas" rel="wikipedia" title="Aeromonas">Aeromonas</a>, <a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pseudomonas" rel="wikipedia" title="Pseudomonas">Pseudomonas</a></b> </i>or <b><span style="color: orange;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flexibacter" rel="wikipedia" title="Flexibacter">Flexibacter</a></span><span style="color: #e69138;"> </span></b>that abound in all aquatic environments. Secondary fungal infections are not uncommon and can cause unremitting problems. Fin rot is the easiest symptom to see. The edges of the fins are ragged, torn and missing. Often the areas where the rotting is occurring is red and <b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inflammation" rel="wikipedia" title="Inflammation">inflamed</a></b> with infection. Left to run its coarse the fins can be eaten totally away leaving the fish unable to swim properly often causing death.<br />
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Sometimes fin rot is accompanied by fungus that feeds off the dead tissue left behind by the infection. If the cause of the fin rot is taken away the fungus should go away on its own but we do have fungus medications that can relieve the symptom quicker.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">A severe infection of the caudal fin of a koi; there is extensive inflammation around the lesion extending into the body of the fish. This fish recovered and surprisingly the fin did partially re-grow, with the two halves knitting back together</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">Leading Edge of the Lesion </span></b></u></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Typical fin rot affecting the <b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorsal_fin" rel="wikipedia" title="Dorsal fin">dorsal fin</a></b> of a koi. On the leading edge of the lesion is an area of white <b style="color: black;"><a class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necrosis" rel="wikipedia" title="Necrosis">necrotic tissue</a></b>. Surrounding this is a large area of inflamed, infected tissue. The front fin ray has been exposed and destroyed. The infection has reached the fish's body</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">A extreme example of fin rot of the caudal fin. The white necrotic region of the fin edge is clearly visible. The whole of the fin is very red and inflamed. The infection has entered the body of the fish resulting in raised scales</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://3.gvt0.com/vi/_aOZbBXIXjs/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_aOZbBXIXjs&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_aOZbBXIXjs&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fin Rot Is Usually Caused By </b></span></u><b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Sustained </u><u>Stress</u></span></b><br />
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</u></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">With very few exceptions, virtually all cases are precipitated by sustained stress, fear or poor water conditions and quality. In my opinion curing fin rot; you should change 1/3 of your aquarium water and add fresh water and aquarium salt. Directions are the aquarium salt bag or box in 3 day you will remove 1/3 of your tank water add fresh water and aquarium salt you will repeat this process for 2 weeks. Aquarium salt is a natural healing agent for fish.</span></div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=b19c1ab3-7d35-4eb5-84e6-6d2d7482e237" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a><script type="text/javascript">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><i><u>Floating Plants</u></i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Floating plants do serve useful and integral purpose in the aquarium unfortunately some aquarists regard floating plants as unwanted pests. However floating plants do perform a effective principle for aquariums. They offer shade for fish from the glare of the aquarium lights, and can provide a sanctuary for newly born young fish; if there are any Gourami in the aquarium they utilize fragments of the floating aquarium plants when building their bubble-nests.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">In the aquarium and surface natural waters; the <u>top of the water and surface above</u> it is the <u>best place for light and gas exchange</u>. Most plants, even when rooted in the substrate, try to send their leaves and stem close to the surface to take advantage of this prime aquatic real estate. Some plants have evolved to spend their entire lives floating in the water; several have even given up their roots finding them to be unnecessary in this environment.</span></div>
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<u><i><b><span style="font-size: large;">Floating Plants in the Aquarium are Useful</span></b></i></u><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><u><i><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b></i></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Floating plants in particular for breeding purposes and providing hiding places for fry</span><span style="font-size: small;">. They can also be used to shade parts of the aquarium if needed. And they can be quite useful if you want plants in a bare bottom tank. Several floating plants are commonly found for sale for both aquariums and ponds with <u>varying degrees of ease of growth and usefulness for the aquarium.</u></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Azolla</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Azolla is a floating fern. There are about 6 living species in the genus, though more than 25 species have been recognized in fossils. Azolla is <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">used in ponds</span></u></i></b>, (if you have Koi think about these) and can be difficult to grow in the aquarium. Low water movement, nutrient rich waters, and high lighting are recommended for their growth. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">1.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Azolla caroliniana, </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">2.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Filiculoides, </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">3.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Mexicana are native to some parts of </span><span style="font-size: small;">North America</span><span style="font-size: small;">. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">4.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">A pinnnata is considered an invasive plant on the federal noxious weeds list. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">5.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Many Azolla have become noxious weeds in different countries across the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Unlike many plants that get in to the noxious weed list, Azolla are actually quite useful. Azolla have an interesting symbiotic relationship with a blue-green algae Anabaena azollae. Because of this relationship and the nitrogen fixing ability of the blue-green algae, Azolla are used as a green fertilizer. They are also supposed to be <u>nutritious with a high level of protein and are used for livestock and even eaten by people.<b><i><span style="color: red;"></span></i></b></u></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Ceratophyllum</span></u></b></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></u></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="rg_ctlv">Hornwort, Ceratophyllum</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;"></span></u></b><span style="font-size: small;">Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums. <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets.</span></u></i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Hornwort is unique in that it will <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">never develop roots</span></u></i></b>. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die.</span></u></i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels</span></u></i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;">. In <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">lower light it will be brighter green and thinner</span></u></i></b>. In <b><i><span style="color: red;">higher light the plant gets bushier</span></i></b> and can get <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">red tints particularly in the stem</span></u></i></b>. In fact <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium</span></u></i></b> and pretty much anywhere else. Though a <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">native of </span></u></i></b><b><i><u><span style="color: red;">North America</span></u></i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;">, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Ceratophyllaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Eichhornia crassipes</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Water hyacinth is a beautiful flowering plant, originally from </span><span style="font-size: small;">South America<b><u> a</u></b></span><span style="font-size: small;">nd used mainly <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">in ponds</span></u></i></b>. E. azurea is listed on the federal noxious weed list but E. crassipes is listed as a noxious weed in many states and countries. It’s one of the most problematic of the invasive weeds in the world. It can fully cover a lake or pond from shore to shore.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Water hyacinth isn’t a practical plant for most aquariums. The plant can get quite tall if it does well and it usually doesn’t inside anyway. Considering its invasiveness, possible illegality in many states, and the fact it isn’t a practical plant in most aquariums, I would not suggest using it.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Lemnaceae family</span></u></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHavRGcGoHE7jd2QovLXqwaKG4n5u9Vc-q5QuS9bP2nHzxXXyUMsyHwaJ5uVA0BUo_H0gzMDopN97lBUHuEWt2Qx7YRAWmJD05LWpGwFxTcsfYOPONEmx0QTlbMuDWnKFXPqqIX82Eer0/s1600/images-duckweed%252C+duckweed%252C+least+duckweed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHavRGcGoHE7jd2QovLXqwaKG4n5u9Vc-q5QuS9bP2nHzxXXyUMsyHwaJ5uVA0BUo_H0gzMDopN97lBUHuEWt2Qx7YRAWmJD05LWpGwFxTcsfYOPONEmx0QTlbMuDWnKFXPqqIX82Eer0/s400/images-duckweed%252C+duckweed%252C+least+duckweed.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lemnaceae family-duckweed</span></span></u></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">duckweeds</span></u></i></b> and their close relatives are some of the most well known of aquatic plants, seeming to occur just about everywhere there’s water worldwide. Often duckweeds can become a pest in the home aquarium, but they can also be useful and aquarists have used them pretty much since there has been aquariums.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The duckweed plants are all small but come in several sizes of very small. The smallest are the <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Wolffia</span></u></i></b>. These tiny plants are the smallest known flowering plants in the world with tiny leaves 1 to 1.5 millimeters. Wolffia are sometimes called water meal because of their small size. Unlike the larger duckweeds, <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Wolffia don’t have roots</span></u></i></b>. This is a neat plant to have in the aquarium but very <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">hard to keep because most fish seem to think their on the menu and ypur fish will eat them</span></u></i></b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8oUoeK4FQEjEdQRa6E2ifm209SmCjG92vjq2G6kQTnwnToqFGNEHBtNP61IMh3HQCpczYihv4dwNkamY6xyaAuNec7iEbMM4T-dmNOtBdKoN_rHWE2BNLG-OXc1LYXyp6_yFIM_Sfgc/s1600/images-small+as+duck+weed+is-Wolffia+is+even+smaller+%2528a+nice+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8oUoeK4FQEjEdQRa6E2ifm209SmCjG92vjq2G6kQTnwnToqFGNEHBtNP61IMh3HQCpczYihv4dwNkamY6xyaAuNec7iEbMM4T-dmNOtBdKoN_rHWE2BNLG-OXc1LYXyp6_yFIM_Sfgc/s400/images-small+as+duck+weed+is-Wolffia+is+even+smaller+%2528a+nice+comparison.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: black;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i><u>Wolffia</u></i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The most common and middle sized duckweeds are the genus Lemna which have more than a dozen species. <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Duckweed </span></u></i></b>is usually very <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">easy to grow in the aquarium</span></u></i></b> though I have had tanks where it just <u>didn’t want to grow</u>; some sources <u>indicate this can mean there are nutritional deficiencies in the water.</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Duckweed can look different in different aquariums, sometimes having very long roots hanging down in the tank, in other tanks fish may nibble on the roots keeping them very short. Sometimes duckweed may drop its roots making a mess of the bottom of the tank. Some aquarists use string or other barriers at the top of the tank to try to keep <u>duckweed roped in to a specific area. </u>The best way to control duckweed, if you don’t have a duckweed eating fish, is to <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">remove the excess plants by hand</span></u></i></b>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Larger duckweeds include Spirodela and Landoltia. These are similar to the Lemna. Often in the wild and sometimes in the aquarium you will end up with several different types of duckweed growing in the same place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>Limnobium</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Frogbit is another plant <u style="color: red;">common for ponds</u> that can grow in the aquarium. There are <span style="color: black;">two species that may be available L. laevigatum, from Central and </span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">South America</span><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> and L. spongia from </span><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">North America</span><span style="font-size: small;">. The plants are very similar in appearance. Both look like very large duckweed but they aren’t closely related. In fact they are from the family Hydrocharitaceae and are related to such diverse looking plants as Blyxa, Najas, Elodea and Vallisneria.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u>Frogbit will need good lighting to grow in the aquarium</u></span><span style="font-size: small;">. If it likes your tank <u>it can grow quickly and will have to be regularly thinned</u>. <u>Daughter plants grow on stolons to the sides of the plants.</u> Also remember these plants can have very long roots which in most aquariums will easily reach to the substrate where they will be happy to anchor. <u>Remember that under these plants it will be shady</u>. Be sure to plan where they <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">frogbit will sit on the surface of the aquarium accordingly.</span></u></i></b></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyTbiL0pYTZonGHoEZ3w63zTKVHYyTptZzIkR5pfgL0RtExwpyid8ycm9nHFiccB-7ZXhwmg_XXBPpYv6mlgB1WqoJNNhZYvfek2vE7aF2n6FdjNbw2JfATeIiOlRZ-jIr90Gd8fiAQw/s1600/images-amazon+frogbit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyTbiL0pYTZonGHoEZ3w63zTKVHYyTptZzIkR5pfgL0RtExwpyid8ycm9nHFiccB-7ZXhwmg_XXBPpYv6mlgB1WqoJNNhZYvfek2vE7aF2n6FdjNbw2JfATeIiOlRZ-jIr90Gd8fiAQw/s400/images-amazon+frogbit.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Amazon Frogbit</b></span></td></tr>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Pistia stratiotes</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Water lettuce is another <u>plant used often in ponds</u>. As the common name implies this plant looks like a head of lettuce sitting on top of the water with roots hanging below. Like water hyacinth you have to consider the height of the plant out of the water when considering it for the aquarium. It would probably work better in an open tank than one with a cover. This is <u>not an easy plant to grow in the aquarium and it needs a great deal of light</u>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">There is some debate about whether water lettuce is a native plant in the </span><span style="font-size: small;">US</span><span style="font-size: small;"> or not, but either way it has been here a long time, since the first recorded observation was in 1765. It has caused problems as an invasive weed in some places and is listed in some states.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Riccia</span></u></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojrV2JnQvt7Yk1r24A42-VbSPPv0sJANsp9ZayNYGsELdaLW0GtaQrLNQaXepSEOSfgVvLASOQtqPzfle8VtxNJBffAwz7jaoKvun2EqhCWWi_D64AvElxv03ee3RNgbSF3FTpYYNeSE/s1600/images-Riccia+fluitans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojrV2JnQvt7Yk1r24A42-VbSPPv0sJANsp9ZayNYGsELdaLW0GtaQrLNQaXepSEOSfgVvLASOQtqPzfle8VtxNJBffAwz7jaoKvun2EqhCWWi_D64AvElxv03ee3RNgbSF3FTpYYNeSE/s400/images-Riccia+fluitans.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><u><b><span class="rg_ctlv">Riccia fluitans Aquatic floating</span></b></u></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sL5FKaU4OJNYmINlQb6qZCFulFvzHTyyYRF7RRaoz8PnkbV4VWMiWQlZZJYwgsHZ-f61Z7N0F01mYIQlSVgzkxPCYJ6yoH-7g6k49vL4KRM53LmbMYy3nJOO7c5DktZKKAOmvjawKSk/s1600/images-Riccia+fluitans+whose+common+name+is+crystalwort+is+an+aquatic+floating.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sL5FKaU4OJNYmINlQb6qZCFulFvzHTyyYRF7RRaoz8PnkbV4VWMiWQlZZJYwgsHZ-f61Z7N0F01mYIQlSVgzkxPCYJ6yoH-7g6k49vL4KRM53LmbMYy3nJOO7c5DktZKKAOmvjawKSk/s400/images-Riccia+fluitans+whose+common+name+is+crystalwort+is+an+aquatic+floating.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="rg_ctlv"><u><b>Riccia fluitans common name is crystalwortused as lawn</b></u></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Riccia fluitans is a <u>liverwort that’s been getting a lot of attention lately</u> as a ground cover. Tied to <u>rocks it does make an attractive lawn plant in the aquarium</u>, but for years it’s been used as it <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">grows naturally, floating</span></u></i></b>. In the past this plant was commonly called <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">crystalwort</span></u></i></b> and is referenced in aquarium literature from at least as early as the late 1800’s. It’s a particularly <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">useful plant in the breeding of some fish</span></u></i></b>. The dense mats can hide tiny fry, much better than even other floating plants or can be used on bottom aquarium as lawn or growing over rocks.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Salvinia</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Salvinia is another floating fern most often <u>used in ponds</u>. It is interesting in that the “roots” seen floating below the plant is actually a modified leaf. There are considered to be 10 species of Salvinia. None of them are native to the </span><span style="font-size: small;">United States</span><span style="font-size: small;"> though they are in the country now. 4 species are on the federal noxious weed list. They are also invasive in many other countries. Salvinia will sometimes grow in an aquarium under the right conditions but considering their status I would advise against growing them at this point.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Utricularia</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u>Bladderworts are very interesting carnivorous plants</u></span><span style="font-size: small;">, several of which you can keep in the aquarium. There are over <u>200 species of bladderworts</u> world wide living both in the water and in moist environments. These can look like several other <u>aquatic plants with their fine feathery leaves, but unlike the similar looking plants, bladderworts have tiny bladders</u>. These small <u>bladders capture tiny insects and crustaceans, sometimes even very tiny fish fry</u>, depending on the type and size of the plant.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I’ve found bladderworts to be somewhat temperamental in the aquarium. Some are <u>not very attractive and look more like hair algae with a few very tiny bladders thrown in</u>. These types seem to grow about as well as hair algae in the aquarium and are generally a nuisance. Other more attractive bladderworts can be somewhat temperamental, growing well for some time then deciding to fade away, popping up again several months later. In tanks with added CO2 I’ve noticed they don’t play the fading away trick. I have noticed in the tanks I’ve put the bladderworts in with additional CO2 that the leaf growth isn’t as thick as the tanks without added CO2.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u>Bladderworts don’t usually flower in the aquarium</u></span><span style="font-size: small;"> but if they do the small and lovely flowers grow above the water. Depending on the species the flowers can range from yellow to violet.</span></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)</span></b></u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg77fH_1K5q_zTEFFWD74KijTDAOZ37s_oFDisDI2odSREL-n-3vCbScSbjyQkABHx1bznPgyF_O48sTNMp1nDyZhMrZbbc5VZTvqQGJB59LduWHJDV4DACEUbBUeG-ROp4KP749QNWI/s1600/index-moss+balls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg77fH_1K5q_zTEFFWD74KijTDAOZ37s_oFDisDI2odSREL-n-3vCbScSbjyQkABHx1bznPgyF_O48sTNMp1nDyZhMrZbbc5VZTvqQGJB59LduWHJDV4DACEUbBUeG-ROp4KP749QNWI/s400/index-moss+balls.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><u><b>Moss Ball (Chladophora aegagropila)</b></u></span></td></tr>
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Moss Ball<br />
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Due to variations within species, your item may not look identical to the image provided.<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li> <span style="font-size: small;">QUICK STATS</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li> Care Level: Easy</li>
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<li> Lighting: Moderate to High</li>
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<li> Placement: Foreground</li>
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<li> Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 3-8, pH 6.8-7.5</li>
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<li> Propogation: Division</li>
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<li> Color Form: Green</li>
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<li> Supplements: High Quality Aquarium Fertilizer</li>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li> Origin: Farm Raised, USA</li>
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<li> Family: Cladophorales</li>
</ul>
All fishes love the Moss Ball-(although not floating plant this is highly recommended) Moss ball is a spongy velvet-like green algae ball that in the wild is found around Japan and Northern Europe. They were once thought to be extremely slow growing, but recent studies suggest that the growth can be accelerated by providing more nutrients. In its natural habitat, they are moved around by undercurrents and sink or rise in order to receive plenty of light to carry out photosynthesis.<br />
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b></u><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ld6Oq3UXDno?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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The Moss Ball requires moderate to high lighting, approximately 3 watts per gallon provided by full spectrum (5000-7000K) bulbs. The temperature of the water should be between 72°-82°F, with an alkalinity of 3-8 dKH and a neutral pH.<br />
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The Moss Ball propagates by division. It starts with a division line which progresses to the splitting off of a smaller new Moss Ball.; approximate purchase size is small: 1" to 1 -3/4" compared to when they start growing.<br />
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<b><u><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Summery</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">There’s a large selection of <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">floating plants</span></u></i></b> that can be <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">used in the aquarium</span></u></i></b> for a variety of purposes. Sometimes these plants can be overlooked when deciding what to put in your tank but the floating plants have a lot to offer. Floating plants can be useful for utilitarian purposes like <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">breeding your fish</span></u></i></b> or using plants in a bare bottom tank. Some of them have very fast growth and can be used to help clean up your tank. Floating plants can bring the beauty and interest of long hanging roots to your pristinely Aquascape planted tank. And <u>floating plants can add something uniquely unusual</u> for the collector, <u>like the carnivorous bladderwort</u>. There are many more floating plant species and many more uses for them than I could possibly cover in one column, but perhaps this brief review will encourage you to try some of them in your aquarium.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Originally appeared in the June 2007 issue of</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine</span></div>
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-22682325038834764582012-01-04T02:01:00.000-08:002012-01-31T11:27:20.055-08:00South America Cichlids-apistos<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ewECxyAeHmI4XJoWSGiGLOCd2qvFoZ5EmqHcUpK3rfsxPYREVYrebQvHSyHdIwp2P3xBmK42NllZ3C3cxonTcYji-USB_PrEIzoqcderjcsPRGtt4jGinNaEXgUnRzHAnY5mf3xqJLw/s1600/images-Apistos+South+American+Dwarf+Cichlid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ewECxyAeHmI4XJoWSGiGLOCd2qvFoZ5EmqHcUpK3rfsxPYREVYrebQvHSyHdIwp2P3xBmK42NllZ3C3cxonTcYji-USB_PrEIzoqcderjcsPRGtt4jGinNaEXgUnRzHAnY5mf3xqJLw/s400/images-Apistos+South+American+Dwarf+Cichlid.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid </span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Apistos South American Dwarf Cichlid Genus Apistogramma;there are volumes of material regarding aquarium literature discussing tank size and how it relates to the apistogramma. Most of the literature implies large tanks should be for large fish and small tanks for small fish; one line in particular stated the apistos are perfect for apartment <i><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html" style="color: blue;">dwelling hobbyists because you can keep them in small tanks</a></b></i> tens and fifteens; well, this is true to a certain extent you can keep them in small tanks and they will live and breed there but what you won’t see, is <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html" style="color: blue;">apistos as they really are in nature defending territories and protecting areas against other males and bully females</a>; further you will<span style="color: blue;"> </span><i style="background-color: white; color: blue;"><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html">experience high unnatural death rate for your Apistos in small fish tank.</a></b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">A Male Apistogramma cacatuoides there is a German dwarf cichlid researcher Dr. Uwe Romer has found by studying apisto populations in the wild that these little fish live in a fairly crowded environment; with perhaps as many as a thousand fish in an area of nine square meters, with leaf litter up to one meter thick on the bottom. You can’t duplicate these conditions in a small aquarium, but you can in a large one he recommends keep your fish in tanks from no less than <i><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" style="color: #3d85c6;">40 gallon or 152 liters to 150 gallon or 658 liters aquariums</a></b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Large tanks provide many advantages; they are easier to maintain the proper pH and hardness. It is also easier to control the effects of ammonia and nitrites. Lastly, you will see the fish act in a way that more closely resembles their behavior in the wild. As an example, many as 125 of A. juruensis living in a 40 gallon aquarium and around 500 of A. cacatuoides living and doing well in a 150 gallon aquarium.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Of course, to have this many fish in a tank it must have the correct environment. To achieve this in one of two ways your aquariums have either lots of cured drift wood, rocks (i.e. granite) and live plants or live plants, cured driftwood, river rocks and leaf litter can be moss balls. Follow the usual precautions with the wood and rocks make sure they are clean (sterilizing is always required) and with rocks, <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">(never use)</span></u></i></b> use just any type of rocks that will alter the chemistry of your tank water like rocks with limestone in them use sterilized river rock or granite this requires boiling them and then placing them in large bucket of clean water for several days pour off the old water and rinse them daily add new clean water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">There are hundred of aquatic plants that can be used like Anubias- Sword plants are a good choice for the new hobbyist; since they tend to grow quite well even in less than optimal conditions. Dwarf Hairgrass. Pygmy Chain Swords, Indian Fern, Java Fern, Water Sprite, Moss Balls, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and Dwarf Hairgrass. For spawning caves, very small plastic seeding planting pots or small ceramic pots they are available in most nurseries. They are cheaper than other sold in aquarium shops and you can get them in green which blend in with their environment. As often as not, though, the fish will spawn on a rock or log or plant leaves; but put the caves in the fish really like them caves make them feel safe and secure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Water</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">most important component for apisto aquarium is the water</span></u></i></b>. There are three things about the <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">water MUST be accurate</span></u></i></b>;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">1.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Hardness, </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">2.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>pH, </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">3.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Cleanliness.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Is your water not quite good enough for apistos without any conditioning at all (100ppm hardness and a pH of 6.5 and run it through an R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) filter. Ion exchange is OK but if you are still not satisfied recharge them and run through again you probably won’t wear out the membrane in the R.O. filter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The pH level in an aquarium is a measure of the tank's acidity. Most fish do best with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, but many aquarium keepers have difficulty maintaining these levels. With careful tank management, however, you can maintain the pH at a healthy level.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Tips & Warnings</b></span></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Fish can thrive in a range of pH levels. Most will do well a full point above or below their recommended "ideal." You should only use chemical pH-altering substances if the pH is several numbers away from where it should be.</span></li>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">If you have difficulty regulating the pH in your aquarium, you may have either hard or soft water. Consider buying fish that naturally thrive in the pH level of your water.</span></li>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Rapid changes in pH can be dangerous to fish. If your aquarium pH is off, avoid rapidly changing it. Huge alterations in pH are far more likely to kill your fish than an incorrect pH. </span></li>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lights & Live Plants</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Lights should be dim this can be attained through Ceratophyllum which floats on top of water;<b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Hornwort is a very common feathery leaved aquarium plant that will grow well in many aquariums</span></u></i></b>. Hornwort also stands up to many fish that may have tendencies to include salads in their diets. </span></h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">Hornwort is unique in that it will never develop roots. You can put the plant in bunches in the back of your tank and it can look nice that way but the plant will roots just won’t ever form and if you try to place any part of hornwort under the substrate, that portion will die. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Hornwort can grow under lower and higher light levels. In lower light it will be brighter green and thinner. In higher light the plant gets bushier and can get red tints particularly in the stem. In fact hornwort is usually very easy to grow in the aquarium and pretty much anywhere else. Though a native of North America, this plant has been introduced in many parts of the world where it’s become a problematic weed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The Ceratophy llaceae have their own family and its relationship to other plants is still undetermined. They seem to be confusing plants for botanists, the number of different species isn’t certain either. Earlier sources argued at 1 or 2, newer sources list 6 or 7; but over 30 have been described, though many of those are almost certainly the same highly variable plants. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Although there are some very competent apisto keepers who use straight R.O. water for their fish, mix with tap water to achieve a desired hardness of 10ppm. Next I treat the water with Sodium Bisulfate to bring the pH down to 4.5. Also use peat in filters as well as leaves (either Oak or Birch) to bring the pH down. However, I have found that the peat and the leaves don’t get the pH as low as I like, so I supplement with Sodium Bisulfate. I like to A Female Apistogramma cacatuoides.end up with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 for most of my fish. However, the fish in the A. pertensis and A. iniridae complex seem to like it lower, around 4.5 pH.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Water cleanliness means three things: filtration, water changes, and feeding. I prefer biological filters. Most aquarium manufacturers sponge filter media just don’t have enough surface area to keep my apisto tanks clean, or they require too much maintenance if you have a lot of tanks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The filters I use are made up of glass partitions that separate one part of the tank from the rest and essentially turning in into a trickle filter. Next I mix peat into the bottom half layer of rock. Water changes are done once every week to nine days with my conditioned R.O. water resulting in the tanks staying nice and clean.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Feeding</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The feeding part of the equation is simple. I feed only live baby brine shrimp twice a day and only as much as they can eat in five minutes or so. I know some apisto keepers who practically count the number of shrimp they put in the tank, but it is actually very important not to over feed because uneaten live shrimp breaks down quickly and apistos are very susceptible to bacterial infections caused by dirty water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Species</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Now that you have some idea as to the keeping of apistos some species of apisto are a bit more forgiving than others. Apistogramma cacatuoides, A. steindachneri, A. macmasteri, and A. sp. Schwarzsaum are all good fish for beginners. However, if given the right aquarium conditions, most apistos will adjust adequately to the aquarium environment.</span></div>
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</div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-15178313800319906542012-01-01T15:20:00.000-08:002012-01-31T11:26:35.778-08:00Dwarf Cichlids-Laetacara curviceps<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="MsoNormal"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUDPtw2x3NA-ySFRUtT48G3vwqMVS8CruA9KQ16yPCPia71fGeMK1bAu0Om98L2s1znkw-4fHyjSaYw_o3iIHpPzVfOMH4fqscu7qVf-ceVG_u8wIK7Gf1q9meSnHu1epGfAfTFckbXs/s1600/images-Laetacara+curviceps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUDPtw2x3NA-ySFRUtT48G3vwqMVS8CruA9KQ16yPCPia71fGeMK1bAu0Om98L2s1znkw-4fHyjSaYw_o3iIHpPzVfOMH4fqscu7qVf-ceVG_u8wIK7Gf1q9meSnHu1epGfAfTFckbXs/s400/images-Laetacara+curviceps.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Laetacara curviceps-Flag acara-Dwarf Flag Cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Laetacara curviceps, aka the flag acara or dwarf flag cichlid is a dwarf cichlid from South American.</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This fish lives in habits off forested area streams or in sluggish tributaries and swamps off the main river channels or slow-moving rivers and streams as well as ponds and<a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html"> <b style="color: #674ea7;"><i><span style="color: blue;">lakes in the vicinity of the Brazilian Amazon Basin</span>.</i></b></a> Flag acaras are commonly kept in aquariums though they were more popular in the past; nowadays other dwarf cichlids like apistos and rams have become the predominate favorites.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><u><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/dwarf-cichlids.html" style="color: blue;">Laetacara curviceps is one of several Laetacara species</a><span style="color: blue;">.</span></b></u> All are small and make good aquarium inhabitants. Several different species can be found at times through specialty organizations like the <a href="http://www.dwarfcichlid.com/www.cichlid.org">American Cichlid Association</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">This beautiful little species was previously included in the genus Aequidens and is referred to as such in older literature. The current genus name Laetacara was erected in 1986, and is derived from the Latin word 'Laetus', meaning happy. This was settled upon as the species it contains are often referred to as 'smiling' acaras, in reference to the<u><i><b><span style="color: #0b5394;"> </span><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" style="color: #0b5394;">distinctive markings around their mouthparts</a></b></i></u>. There are a handful of undescribed species that have been tentatively placed in the genus. L. sp. "Buckelkopf" and L. sp. "Orangeflossen", in particular have achieved a fair degree of popularity in the hobby.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Characteristics</b><b> Living in Home Aquarium</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 1:</b> Selecting the Laetacara curviceps<b> </b>species is worthy choice; the flag acara very peaceful compared to most cichlids; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 2:</b> Flag acara will not uproot plants and well planted aquarium will be greatly appreciated and is necessary for this dwarf cichlid;</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 3:</b> Laetacara curviceps<b> <i><u><span style="color: red;">adult male and female size</span></u></i></b> adult male can measure 3.6" (9cm). Females are smaller, approximately 2.8" (7cm).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 4: <i><u><span style="color: red;">pH water range</span></u></i></b> Flag acara prefers slightly acidic conditions, recommendation in the range 5.5-7.0.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 5: <i><u><span style="color: red;">Water hardness</span></u></i></b> 2-10°dH</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 6:</b> Recommended <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">water temperature</span></u></i></b> for Flag acara 24 - 29 °C ( 76 °F - 84 °F )</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 7:</b> Add a number of broad leaved sword plants as well as a thicket of java moss and some floating water sprite and they will soon be ready to spawn.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 8:</b> Dwarf flag cichlid require slightly soft and acidic water but are sometimes tolerant of different conditions however it is important to try to keep water conditions as close to their natural habitat as they experience in the wild.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 9:</b> Flag acaras are ideal for communities with other peaceful Amazon fish;</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 10:</b> Flag acara <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">tank mates</span></u></i></b> could be <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">tetras and apistos</span></u></i></b>. However, you must be careful in <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">selecting Dwarf flag cichlids tank mates</span></u></i></b> as they are <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">easily bullied</span></u></i></b> by more aggressive fish, even those that are <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">much smaller</span></u></i></b> <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Remember Laetacara curviceps species is shy and easily intimidated and breeding will be limited if at all.</span></u></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 11: </b>Tank size should be at least 30 gallon or larger the larger the aquarium the easier to keep your tanks eco system balanced and clean conversely the smaller the aquarium the more difficult it is to <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">maintain water quality, water flow, pH levels, temperature and build-ups of nitrogenous waste</span></u></i></b>; you will be required to indulged in 1000% more work for a <u><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" style="color: blue;">10 gallon or <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">38</span> liter tank than you will need to do on 100 gallonor <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">379</span> liter tank</a><span style="color: blue;">.</span></b><b> </b></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/hnXsV2wRqOA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Great video however it is in German</b></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"> <b>L</b></span><b><span style="font-size: large;">aetacara curviceps Diet and Food</span></b> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Flag acara do best on live or frozen foods. </div><ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal">earthworms chopped finely; </li>
<li class="MsoNormal">blood worms;</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">brine shrimp live or frozen; </li>
<li class="MsoNormal">white worms will bring out their full coloration;</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">water fleas</li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Avoid tubifex worms</span></u></i></b> they have been linked to bacteria that kill cichlids.</li>
</ol><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lifespan Dwarf flag cichlids</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anticipated and expected lifespan is 2-4 years.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Breeding Laetacara curviceps </b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 1:</b> Laetacara curviceps<b>, </b>flag acaras will pair up at a very young age as small as one and a half inches. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 2:</b> The dwarf flag cichlid will flare at each other when pairing up and will later swim together and breed and they usually will stay with their mate for the rest of their lives. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 3:</b> Laetacara curviceps<b> </b>it never takes much to trigger the breeding of flag acaras. Clear-cut beneficial living conditions are more often enough;</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 4:</b> For the flag acaras warm and clean water is mandatory and plentiful live food is necessary; </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Qs5UJ9PWz4I?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Steps to Successful Eggs, Hatching, Wigglers, Free Swimming Young </b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 1: </b>Laetacara curviceps prefer their eggs are usually laid on a leaf or upright structure or on a flat surface but they can also dig a hole and spawn directly on gravel or sand.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 2:</b> Five to seven days the eggs will hatch and become wiggler; this is when the hatchling dwarf flag cichlid have hatched out of their eggs but are still attached to the spawning surface feeding off their yolk sacs which are attached to their stomachs. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 3:</b> Subsequently when the five to seven days of being wigglers have past the fish have almost completely consumed their yolk sacs and become free swimming. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 4:</b> Laetacara curviceps free swimming young is very small but they can normally eat newborn brine shrimp as their first food and crushed flakes. Laetacara curviceps young can also be fed liquid fry food which is available at most fish or pet stores with <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">good care</span></u></i></b> and <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">frequent water changes</span></u><span style="color: red;"> </span></i></b>you can <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">raise quite a few from a single spawn</span></u></i></b> and sell the young it can be profitable.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/jEnJDylg7rY?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Laetacara curviceps Parenting Skills</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 1:</b> Both parents take turns guarding and protecting their eggs, wigglers, and fry. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 2:</b> Laetacara curviceps are dedicated as the parents however they sometimes become confused and eat their own eggs. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 3:</b> Laetacara curviceps<b> i</b>f they become fearful for their brood's safety, Laetacara curviceps will pick up the fry in their mouth and move them across the tank and some times the scoop up the eggs for no apparent reason other than to take the eggs for a swim about.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 4:</b> The flag acaras will take turns moving the fry, one standing guard over the already moved young. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Step 5:</b> The fry are protected by their parents until they are moderately large and can fend for themselves.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><u>From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</u></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">Laetacara curviceps</div><div class="MsoNormal">Scientific classification</div><div class="MsoNormal">Kingdom: Animalia</div><div class="MsoNormal">Phylum: Chordata</div><div class="MsoNormal">Class: Actinopterygii</div><div class="MsoNormal">Order: Perciformes</div><div class="MsoNormal">Family: Cichlidae</div><div class="MsoNormal">Subfamily: Cichlasomatinae</div><div class="MsoNormal">Genus: Laetacara</div><div class="MsoNormal">Species: L. curviceps</div><div class="MsoNormal">Binomial name: Laetacara curviceps</div><div class="zemanta-pixie" style="height: 15px; margin-top: 10px;"><a class="zemanta-pixie-a" href="http://www.zemanta.com/" title="Enhanced by Zemanta"><img alt="Enhanced by Zemanta" class="zemanta-pixie-img" src="http://img.zemanta.com/zemified_e.png?x-id=9dbcf10c-6f16-455d-944c-01bc9a50435a" style="border: medium none; float: right;" /></a><script type="text/javascript">
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</script></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-2594397188012005562011-12-31T21:11:00.000-08:002012-01-31T11:27:52.693-08:00Dwarf Cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Dwarf Cichlids </b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h1><i><span style="font-size: 18pt;"></span></i></h1><span style="font-size: small;">Dwarf cichlids are found in Africa and South America. The most well known dwarf cichlid species are the <b>South American and belong to the genus <i>Apistogramma</i><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html" style="color: blue;"> laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf</a><span style="color: blue;">.</span></b> These cichlids live in the Amazon region and some species have also been found in Venezuela. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>1. Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (<i>Apistogramma agassizi</i>)</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: small;">1.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (<i>Apistogramma agassizi</i>) </span></div><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJqWvCVC-mmmWBbt_p3D5s62TFP6F_zMC-407ZQrETRU_-s8xhG1kSfhQAkkTdBzlY9WoJN7G5fZ80JKO_G7hg9L7f0ziXTxdrBAYcgRQAv4sutlQGBvnrhNJi_7qu04wCNq_0L3Mvok/s1600/images-Blue+Apistogramma+%2528Apistogramma+trifasciata%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJqWvCVC-mmmWBbt_p3D5s62TFP6F_zMC-407ZQrETRU_-s8xhG1kSfhQAkkTdBzlY9WoJN7G5fZ80JKO_G7hg9L7f0ziXTxdrBAYcgRQAv4sutlQGBvnrhNJi_7qu04wCNq_0L3Mvok/s400/images-Blue+Apistogramma+%2528Apistogramma+trifasciata%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>2. Blue Apistogramma (<i>Apistogramma trifasciata</i>)</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: small;">2.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Blue Apistogramma </span>Dwarf Cichlid<b> </b><span style="font-size: small;">(<i>Apistogramma trifasciata</i>)</span></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitxryIYd8EEZRP494xwl9B5ONY1nU9SlDGcT_kZOjbOBrGunC5nv0bl0-Hpv4yY_8VXS2AtK3dJow6kBZTvEg95xdF9fYL9RrFgqQkBgNZYW4dLJsbqOXC5_8LCZCH-dYJAS8Zn5dhCF8/s1600/images-Cockatoo+Dwarf+Cichlid+%2528Apistogramma+cacatuoides%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitxryIYd8EEZRP494xwl9B5ONY1nU9SlDGcT_kZOjbOBrGunC5nv0bl0-Hpv4yY_8VXS2AtK3dJow6kBZTvEg95xdF9fYL9RrFgqQkBgNZYW4dLJsbqOXC5_8LCZCH-dYJAS8Zn5dhCF8/s400/images-Cockatoo+Dwarf+Cichlid+%2528Apistogramma+cacatuoides%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>3. Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides)</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: small;">3.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid (<i>Apistogramma cacatuoides</i>)</span></div><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeRkSfD_rPU_2Wo-09IZzeZ8i17trACgO0bI2zeiBVH9KD4267mxVtzWFGymanjvcC8sclArWhHT3VRKqbHf72CZx6eW3Ms-_ENZnI6XyL9Vb2bIle2CubAWCy0HJY0MEDRxg0cKotZ0/s1600/index-Yellow+Dwarf+Cichlid+%2528Apistogramma+borellii%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeRkSfD_rPU_2Wo-09IZzeZ8i17trACgO0bI2zeiBVH9KD4267mxVtzWFGymanjvcC8sclArWhHT3VRKqbHf72CZx6eW3Ms-_ENZnI6XyL9Vb2bIle2CubAWCy0HJY0MEDRxg0cKotZ0/s400/index-Yellow+Dwarf+Cichlid+%2528Apistogramma+borellii%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>4 Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (<i>Apistogramma borellii</i>) </b></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: small;">4.<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (<i>Apistogramma borellii</i>). <span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are the most common type dwarf cichlids kept in the home aquarium. </span></div><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><span style="font-size: small;">In the wild;<u style="color: blue;"><i><b> <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2011/12/normal-0-microsoftinternetexplorer4.html" style="color: blue;">Apistogramma dwarf cichlids habitat </a></b></i></u><span style="color: blue;">is</span> in soft acidic waters, and you must keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.8 in <span class="klink"><span style="color: black;">the aquarium</span></span> and make sure that the water is soft. </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/YXsfKOU0gfo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The male Apistogramma cichlids will grow too approximately <i style="color: red;"><u><b>three inches or 7.62 cm</b></u></i> and the females are usually <u style="color: red;"><i><b>one and half inches or 3.81 cm </b></i></u>in size; this makes it possible to house dwarf cichlids in smaller aquarium <u style="color: red;"><i><b>minim size can be 30 gallon or 114 liters </b></i></u>any smaller you will be working yourself to death; remember the smaller the aquarium the more water changes and extreme upkeep is always required for small tanks; you should <i><u><b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/apistos-south-american-dwarf-cichlid.html" style="color: blue;">not house dwarf cichlids in any type of small aquarium water quality and pH is absolute must for this dwarf cichlid-Apistogramma cichlids and care would be exaggerated in small tank</a><span style="color: blue;">.</span></b></u></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">However most dwarf cichlids are extremely sensitive to water and pH quality than their larger cousins and it will be hard to keep the water quality fine enough in a very small aquarium. Due to their sensitivity <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Apistogramma Dwarf cichlids are never recommended to aquarists without previous aquarium experience</span></u></i></b>.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Apistogramma dwarf cichlids are quite docile but they will defend their territory during spawning. Just like many other cichlids, Apistogramma species and are great parents will care for their offspring. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The male Apistogramma will claim a territory and protect it, and several females will care for the <span class="klink"><span style="color: black;">fry</span></span> in small nests within this territory. The nests are usually quite basic, like holes in the sand or a little pile of leaf litter. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Each female will defend her own spawning site against all others. If you keep bottom dwelling <span class="klink"><span style="color: black;">fish</span></span> species, like catfish, with your Apistogramma dwarf cichlids you must remove them from the aquarium when the dwarf cichlids begin to spawning. Dwarf cichlids are known to pick out the eyes of intruding fish species.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">One of the most commonly kept dwarf cichlids <b><i><u><span style="color: red;">from </span></u></i></b><b><i><u><span style="color: red;">Africa</span></u></i></b><b><i><u><span style="color: red;"> is </span></u></i></b><i><b><u><span style="color: red; font-style: normal;">Pelvicachromis pulcher</span></u></b></i><b><i><u><span style="color: red;">, the Kribensis cichlid</span></u></i></b>. A male Kribensis can reach a size of 10 centimeters (4 inches) while the females 5 centimeters or (2 inches) and they always are much smaller than the males. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXBlsGGnCY8iK6vyLGEaaTz2vmX3GwlYKldMVR5HsVqokrkYJLaagyra9lgfgXJzIkcBbRrldMUP4aZK763Hdl3hBuIZagm0Q7YfmxqltXoiQxK6pKEbF2MaOa7saorZG4oUUyq3g_74/s1600/images-Pelvicachromis+pulcher-+Kribensis+cichlids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFXBlsGGnCY8iK6vyLGEaaTz2vmX3GwlYKldMVR5HsVqokrkYJLaagyra9lgfgXJzIkcBbRrldMUP4aZK763Hdl3hBuIZagm0Q7YfmxqltXoiQxK6pKEbF2MaOa7saorZG4oUUyq3g_74/s400/images-Pelvicachromis+pulcher-+Kribensis+cichlids.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>African Dwarf Cichlid is <i>Pelvicachromis pulcher-</i> Kribensis cichlid</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: 14pt;"></span><span style="font-size: small;">African Dwarf Cichlid is <i>Pelvicachromis pulcher-</i> Kribensis cichlid</span></li>
</ol><span style="font-size: small;">Unlike a lot of the commonly kept African cichlids, this cichlid does not originate from any of the Great Rift Valley lakes. Kribensis is instead found in the Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Populations of P. pulcher </span><span style="font-size: small;">prefers rivers with fast running shallow water;they </span><span style="font-size: small;">also have occurred outside its natural range in Hawaii, as a USA by-product of the ornamental fish trade; </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Pelvicachromis pulcher is native to southern Nigeria and to coastal areas of Cameroon, where it occurs in warm (24–26 °C or 75–79 °F), acidic to neutral (pH 5.6–6.2), soft water (12–22 mg L-1 CaCO3). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">If you want to keep Kribensis cichlids, you should house them in a well planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places since this resembles the <span class="klink"><span style="color: black;">natural environment</span></span> for Kribensis cichlids. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Drift wood and rocks can also be used to create hiding places. Kribensis cichlids will work well with each other or in a community aquarium. They will claim territories, but these are so small that territorial fights will be unusual. Unlike many larger African cichlids, Kribensis cichlids are not very found of digging. </span><br />
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</script></div></div>JCPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05835090849568734444noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-340851938956769798.post-27119226153388190612011-12-31T14:58:00.000-08:002012-01-31T11:28:39.458-08:00Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig99VOEmgSMrbebPOxt-4-XEzNv3kBk1UAhz1IxakRUwGyBui29R7n_dbUBqjI4BMR-1pBpIAqqvRdqLkIB8hwE652IUemhzDs3HuA800QQMHV2PRlOMK3gf9uF5NxwTdyJyXM2CaSzIU/s1600/images-new+fish+tank+setup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig99VOEmgSMrbebPOxt-4-XEzNv3kBk1UAhz1IxakRUwGyBui29R7n_dbUBqjI4BMR-1pBpIAqqvRdqLkIB8hwE652IUemhzDs3HuA800QQMHV2PRlOMK3gf9uF5NxwTdyJyXM2CaSzIU/s400/images-new+fish+tank+setup.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Set-Up New Aquarium Dwarf Cichlids</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h1><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">This article will only point out a few things that are important to keep in mind when you are about to set up a new aquarium. For more details, I recommend you <span style="color: red;">download FREE the e-book </span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: red;">called</span> </span><a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/ebook.html" style="color: blue;">“Tropical Fish”</a><span style="color: blue;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">from the forum,</span></span></h1><br />
Downloading the book is completely free of charge and will provide you with much more comprehensive information about how to set up and maintain an aquarium. By spending some time reading up on the subject <b><a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/laetacara-curviceps-flag-acara-dwarf.html" style="color: blue;">you can save yourself a lot of problems (and money!)</a></b> in the long run. A lot of new aquarists lose interest in the hobby when all the fish in their newly set up aquarium suddenly goes belly up, and this is sad because in most cases, this type of sudden fish death can be easily prevented. <br />
<h2><span style="font-size: x-large;">Location and surface</span></h2>If you plan on using <a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquarium/settingup.php"><span class="klink"><span style="color: black; text-decoration: none;">electrical equipment</span></span></a>, e.g. airstones, heaters etcetera in your aquarium it must naturally be placed where you have access to electricity. Placing an aquarium where it will be <a href="http://africancichlidsfish.blogspot.com/2012/01/aquarium-floating-plants-care.html"><i style="color: blue;"><b>exposed to sunlight</b></i> </a>is not a good idea since this will promote excessive algae growth. It is also important to keep in mind that a filled aquarium is really empty and normal your normal furniture may be not be strong enough to keep it up. Getting an aquarium stand or special aquarium furniture is therefore recommended for mid-sized aquariums and bigger. <br />
<h2><span style="font-size: large;">Safety </span></h2>Every thing that will go into your aquarium should be thoroughly washed to prevent disease and pollution from entering your aquarium. Use hot water and bleach rather than detergents, and meticulously wash away all traces of bleach afterwards. Gravel must be carefully rinsed unless you want the water to get really cloudy. Living things such as plants and fish can be dipped in saltwater to kill of external parasites and bacteria.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Water treatment</span></b><br />
If you use chlorinated tap water you must add a dechlorinator before you use it for your aquarium since chlorine and chloramines damage the gills of your fish and kills of beneficial bacteria. You can purchase a dechlorinator intended for aquarium use in your local fish store. A less expensive way of treating the water is to mix a lot of air into it when you pour it into a bucket (e.g. by tilting the bucket) and then leave it to rest for 24 hours.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/n-wyEeTZPIE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><b><span style="font-size: small;">Filling the aquarium</span></b><br />
Do not begin filling your aquarium anywhere else than in its intended place because it will become really heavy. When you have added the gravel, place a dish or similar on top of it and pour the water onto the dish instead of directly onto the gravel. This will divert the water and stir up less debris. Fill the aquarium half way up, plant any plants and add aquarium decoration, and then proceed to fill it all the way up. <br />
<h2><span style="font-size: small;">Equipment </span></h2>Connect all your equipment and leave the gadgets running for 24 hours. This will give you time to make sure that everything works as it should. <br />
<h2><span style="font-size: large;">Cycling </span></h2>Cycling is the process where you cultivate large amounts of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium. These bacteria will help you keep the water quality up by converting dangerous fish waste into a less dangerous substance and maintaining an aquarium without these helpful bacteria is really difficult. Many beginner aquarists are not aware of the necessity of cycling and this is one of the main reasons behind sudden fish death in newly set up aquariums. I therefore strongly advise you to read one of the articles about how to cycle the aquarium. It is not difficult at all and it will save you a lot of trouble in the long run. <span style="color: red;">You can also download the FREE e-book </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12pt;"><a href="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/ebook.html" style="color: blue;">“Tropical Fish”</a><span style="color: blue;"> </span></span> from the forum (for free) and follow the cycling guide.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Acclimatising your new fishes </span></b><br />
Start by introducing a small number of fish during the cycling process (unless you opt for a fishless cycle) and then gradually introduce more and more fish over the course of several weeks. This will prevent the water quality in your aquarium to drop sharply. When you arrive home with a bag of fish, leave the bag floating in the aquarium to prevent sharp changes in temperature. After roughly 15 minutes, open the bag and pour some aquarium water into it. DO NOT allow any water from the bag to escape into your aquarium water since it can carry disease. After an additional 15 minutes, open the bag again and add some more water. This process will give the fish a chance to gradually grow accustomed to the water chemistry in your aquarium. Wait for 15 more minutes before you use a net to catch the fish and let it into the aquarium. Discard the bag with the pet shop water.<br />
<div class="zemanta-related"><h6 class="zemanta-related-title" style="font-size: 1em; margin: 1em 0 0 0;">Related articles</h6><ul class="zemanta-article-ul"><li class="zemanta-article-ul-li"><a href="http://donjohnmmaglasang.wordpress.com/2011/10/26/general-fish-care-tips/">General Fish Care Tips</a> (donjohnmmaglasang.wordpress.com)</li>
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