Residential housing in December increased 6% to $198.5 billion (annual rate).  Single family housing advanced another 3% in December, and over the course of 2012 demonstrated remarkably steady growth, with gains reported in eleven out of the twelve months.  Multifamily housing showed a more varied pattern during 2012, but ended the year with a 15% gain in December.  Large multifamily projects that supported the December gain included two large apartment buildings in New York NY, valued at $500 million and $384 million respectively; a $213 million apartment building in Fort Lee NJ; a $125 million student housing project adjacent to Temple University in Philadelphia PA; and a $118 million renovation to an apartment complex in Venice CA.

The 2012 amount for residential building was $163.4 billion, up 29%, which marked a noteworthy change from the modest 4% gain registered in 2011.  Single family housing in 2012 climbed 29% in dollar terms, versus the 3% decline that was reported for 2011.  The regional pattern for single family housing in 2012 showed increases for all five major regions, as follows – the West, up 40%; the Midwest, up 32%; the South Atlantic, up 29%; the South Central, up 23%; and the Northeast, up 15%.  Multifamily housing in 2012 advanced 30%, showing additional growth on top of increases in 2010 (up 21%) and 2011 (up 34%).  By major region, multifamily housing registered this performance in 2012 – the West, up 46%; the Northeast, up 35%; the South Central and the South Atlantic, each up 27%; and the Midwest, up 10%.  The top five metropolitan areas in terms of the 2012 dollar amount of multifamily starts were – New York NY, up 45%; Washington DC, up 9%; Miami FL, up 128%; Los Angeles CA, up 48%; and Boston MA, up 22%.  The large increase for multifamily housing in the West was helped by the 48% gain for Los Angeles, as well as growth in such metropolitan areas as Seattle WA, up 36%; San Francisco CA, up 24%; Denver CO, up 87%; and Phoenix AZ, up 116%.

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Filter replacement of your furnace is part of responsible home ownership  This should be included as part of your regular home maintenance.  But this task, if deferred, can lead to a home system that’s inefficient and overworked, which can result in problems and expenses.

It’s simple and inexpensive, and taking care of it at least every three months can me an the difference between optimum comfort and avoidable repairs.

What Can Go Wrong

Most homes have some sort of furnace or heat pump, and many of those homes (especially newer ones) have combined heating, ventilation and air-conditioning or HVAC systems.  Each type uses some type of air filter or screen to prevent larger airborne particles (up to 40 microns) from entering the system and clogging sensitive machinery.  A system that has a dirty filter can suffer from pressure drop, which can lead to reduced air flow, or “blow-out,” resulting in no air infiltration at all.  Any of these conditions can cause the system to work harder to keep the home warm or cool (depending on the season and the setting).  And any mechanical component that has to work harder to run efficiently puts undue stress on the whole system, which can lead to premature failure, resulting in repair or replacement.

Also, a dirty filter that’s exposed to condensation can become damp, which can lead to mold growth that can be spread throughout the home by the HVAC system.  This can lead to serious health consequences, not to mention a compromised unit that will likely require servicing and may require replacement, depending on the severity of the moisture problem.

Types of Filters

Most HVAC and furnace filters are disposable, made of biodegradable paper or similar media, and shaped in cells, screens or fins designed to trap as much airborne debris as possible.  Filters can typically be purchased in economical multi-packs, and there are many types that will fit different models of furnace/HVAC units.  It’s important to use the appropriate filter for your unit; using the wrong filter that doesn’t fit the unit properly can create the same types of problems as having a dirty filter.  Your HVAC installer can show you where the filter goes and how to remove the old one and install a new one.  Your unit may also have an affixed label with directions for easy filter replacement.

How Often?

Your HVAC or furnace technician should service your unit once a year.  Because a furnace/HVAC unit contains moving parts, it’s important that belts are not cracked and dry, ventilation ductwork is not gapped, cracked or rusted, and components, such as coils and fans, are clog-free and adequately lubricated for unimpeded operation.  This sort of evaluation is best left to the professional, unless the homeowner has had the appropriate training.

The filter of the unit, especially if it’s an HVAC unit that will tend to get nearly year-round use, should be changed by the homeowner at least every three months, but possibly more often.

Check your filter’s condition and change it once a month if:

• You run your unit six months a year to year-round.
• You have pets.  Pet dander can become airborne and circulate through the home’s ventilation system just as typical household dust does.
• You have a large family.  More activity means more household dust, dirt and debris.
• You smoke indoors.
• You or someone in your household suffers from allergies or a respiratory condition.
• You live in a particularly windy area or experience high winds for extended periods, especially if there are no nearby shrubs or trees to provide a natural windbreak.
• You live in an area prone to or having recently experienced any wildfires.  Airborne ash outdoors will eventually find its way indoors.
• You have a fireplace that you occasionally use.
• You live on a working farm or ranch.  Dust and dirt that gets kicked up by outdoor work activity and/or large animals can be pulled into the home’s ventilation system, especially through open windows.
• You have a large garden.  Depending on its size and how often you work it, tilling soil, planting, pulling weeds, using herbicides and pesticides, and even watering mean that dirt, chemicals and condensation can be pulled into your home’s ventilation system.
• There is construction taking place around or near the home.  You may be installing a new roof or a pool, or perhaps a neighbor is building a home or addition.  Even if the activity is only temporary, dust and debris from worksites adjacent to or near the home can be sucked into the home’s ventilation system, and this increased activity can tax your HVAC system.

Change the filter immediately if:

• The filter is damaged.  Whether it happened inside the packaging or while being installed, a damaged filter that has bent fins, collapsed cells or holes will not work as well as an undamaged filter, especially if it allows system air to bypass the filter at any point.
• The filter is damp.  A filter affected by moisture intrusion, system condensation, or even high indoor humidity can quickly become moldy and spread airborne mold spores throughout the home via the ventilation system.
• There is evidence of microbial growth or mold on the filter.  Mold spores already infiltrating the home via the HVAC system are not only bad for the unit itself, but they can pose a health hazard for the family, ranging from an irritated respiratory system to a serious allergic reaction.  The musty smell produced by a moldy HVAC filter is also unpleasant and may take a while to completely eradicate from inside the home.  If you discover that you have moldy air filter, it’s important to have the cause investigated further.  An InterNACHI inspector or HVAC technician can help determine the problem so that it doesn’t recur.

Tips on Changing the Filter

• Turn off the unit before replacing the filter.
• Use the right filter for your unit and make sure it’s not damaged out of the package.
• Follow the directions for your unit to make sure you’re installing the filter properly.  For example, many filters use different colors for the front and back (or upstream and downstream flow) so that they’re not installed backwards.
• Make sure there aren’t any gaps around the filter frame.  If this is the case, you may have the wrong size filter, or the filter itself may be defective or damaged.
• Use a rag to clean up any residual dust before and after you replace the filter.
• Securely replace any levers, gaskets and/or seals.
• Turn the unit on and observe it while it’s operating to make sure the filter stays in place.
• Note the date of filter replacement in a convenient location for the next time you inspect it.  A filter that becomes dirty enough to change within a short period of time may indicate a problem with the unit or ventilation system, so monitoring how often the filter requires changing is important information for your technician to have.

Call a technician for servicing if:

• Your unit fails to turn back on.
• The fan is slow or makes excessive noise, or the fins are bent.
• The coils are excessively dusty or clogged.
• You notice moisture intrusion from an unknown source anywhere in the system.

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Attic access pull down ladders, also called attic pull-down stairways, are collapsible ladders that are permanently attached to the attic floor. Occupants can use these ladders to access their attics without being required to carry a portable ladder.

• cut bottom cord of structural truss. Often, homeowners will cut through a structural member in the field while installing a pull-down ladder, unknowingly weakening the structure. Structural members should not be modified in the field without an engineer’s approval;
• fastened with improper nails or screws. Homeowners often use drywall or deck screws rather than the standard 16d penny nails or ¼” x 3” lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and they may not support pull-down ladders;
• fastened with an insufficient number of nails or screws. Manufacturers provide a certain number of nails with instructions that they all be used, and they probably do this for a good reason. Inspectors should be wary of “place nail here” notices that are nowhere near any nails;
• lack of insulation. Hatches in many houses (especially older ones) are not likely to be weather-stripped and/or insulated. An uninsulated attic hatch allows air from the attic to flow freely into the home, which may cause the heating or cooling system to run overtime. An attic hatch cover box can be installed to increase energy savings;
• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage;
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders.
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously

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How to Qualify for an EEM

To qualify, homeowners must submit the house or construction plans for an energy audit, arranged by the prospective lender. The lender will then use the audit to determine which energy improvements will save more money than they cost. Specifically, the lender will want to see two things:

• that the monthly utility savings generated by the improvements are greater than the added monthly cost of the energy-efficient mortgage; and
• that the total savings are greater than the total costs over the lifetime of the improvement, including maintenance costs.

In some cases, an improvement that is not found to be cost-effective may be financed anyway if all of the improvements, together as a package, pass the cost-effectiveness test. The energy audit, which may cost several hundred dollars, may be financed as part of the EEM.

Types of Energy Efficient Mortgages

• Conventional EEMs, offered by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, are the most widely available EEMs. Homeowners can spend up to 15% of the appraised value of the home on energy improvements and thereby qualify for a loan that is 15% greater than they would have received under normal conditions. In addition to allowing the lender to increase the borrower’s loan by a dollar amount equal to the estimated energy savings, these loans also adjust the value of the home to reflect the value of the energy-efficiency measures. This perk removes the possibility that the real estate agent will ignore energy-efficient improvements while assessing the home’s value.
• Federal Housing Administration (FHA) EEMs allow lenders to add the costs required by energy improvements to a mortgage loan that has already been approved. These loans are available for site-built as well as for manufactured homes. The addition cannot exceed $4,000 or 5% of the value of the home, whichever is greater, up to a maximum of $8,000.
• The Veteran’s Administration (VA) EEM is restricted to qualified reservists, veterans, and other military personnel. The VA caps loans for energy-efficient improvements at between $3,000 and $6,000.
• ENERGY STAR® EEMs, while still under development, will incorporate the costs of energy-efficiency improvements into the loan itself, allowing borrowers to pay for those investments over the life of their loan, and to deduct the interest from their federal and state income taxes. Participating lenders also offer borrowers additional financial benefits beyond the value of the home energy savings, such as discounted mortgage rates, reduced loan fees, and assistance with closing costs.

To determine a home’s energy rating, an energy audit is conducted by an investigator who works in accordance with qualification standards created by the U.S. Department of Energy. The inspection takes into account everything from the types of insulation and windows installed, to the efficiency of the heating and cooling systems and other major appliances.

Lenders offer a number of different types of energy efficient mortgages to help borrowers afford energy-efficient improvements for their homes.

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Power tools always make a project go smoother and often much faster. You will likely get results that look for professional as well. Most power tools are sold as just the basic item. However, each type of power tool comes with some great accessories.

You will want to consider purchasing some of these accessories, especially if you plan to use your power tools often. In some cases, power tools are sold with an accessory kit. This is a great investment as it is often less expensive then purchasing individual accessories.

You may not know what accessories you are going to need down the road for a particular power tool. That can keep you from purchasing the power tool kit with accessories, then you may wish you had them down the road. Take some time to research the power tool you wish to purchase. Find out about the various accessories available and their use.

It is also a great idea to compare the price of the power tool with the accessory kit to the price of it without. If the difference in only a few dollars then get the accessories. If you find you won’t use them, you can always sell them to a friend or one of the online auction sites.

Drill bits are accessories you will have to purchase based on what you will be using the drill for as well as the materials you are drilling. Drill bits made of carbon are only recommended for use on wooden materials. A twisted drill bit and a braided point drill bit are very similar. The difference is the twisted bit is the same diameter throughout it, while a braided point gets thinner towards the bottom.

Countersink drill bits make the hole wider. This allows you to use flathead screws and get them flush with the material. This makes your project look more professional. A tile bit is especially designed for working with anything ceramic or glass. You should only use a tile bit at a very low speed. A chuck key is used to loosen or tighten the chuck. Generally a chuck key comes with your drill when you purchase it. You can by a replacement if necessary.

Routers are great power tools for detailing, carving, and engraving. There are hundreds of different tips for routers to choose from. You will have to do some investigating to purchase ones that will suite your particular project. A router table comes in very handy if you plan to use your router a great deal. It also helps you get the straightest cut.

A pair of saw horses is definitely useful when you are operating any type of saw that involves cutting materials that you can lay across them. They support both ends of the material at the same time so you can use both of your hands to operate the saw. To help you get the best possible cut, a laser guide is a wonderful accessory. It puts out an infrared light in a straight line for you to follow as you cut.

There are various grades of sandpaper to use on sanders. You need to make sure you use the proper grade for each project. A dust bag is an attachment helps to reduce the amount of dust by capturing it and holding it.

You can find power tool accessories at retail stores, on the internet, and at home improvement stores. You will need to purchase accessories that match the brand of power tool you purchased. It is a good idea to have the model number ready when you purchase power tool accessories, especially if it is an older model. There may be more than one type of accessory for a particular power tool and you won’t know which is for yours unless you have the model number to compare with the information on the packaging.

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Christmas may very well be the oldest holiday that is shared across the many cultures of the world; it is traditionally celebrated during the winter season (or even the warm summer season if you count Australia, where Christmas is celebrated as an official holiday).

Before Christmas was celebrated, people were finding time to celebrate in Europe during the winter holiday before the birth of Jesus Christ ever even occurred!

The Winter Solstice has always been a time to celebrate and rejoice; it is celebrated on December 21 in the northern hemisphere and it was after the Winter Solstice that the worst part of the year was behind them. It was at that point during the year that the days began to get longer, giving the people more time to spend outside on their crops and tending to their animals.

In Scandinavia during the Winter Solstice, men and their sons used to go in to the woods to cut a tree down. After the tree had been felled, a nicely sized log was cut out of it, and the men would carry the log back to the home. This log was dubbed a Yule Log, and the Yule log was burned in the fireplace. The entire time the Yule log burned, the family would feast. Often times the Yule log might burn for a whole twelve days! Of course, as the Yule log burned it sent sparks out of the hearth and as the sparks flew out of the fire place, the family would count the sparks and each spark stood for a farm animal (a cow, a goat, a pig, etc) that would be born on their property that year. It is important to note that farm animals were signs of wealth back then.

Saturnalia is a celebration of the Winter Solstice that occurred in ancient pagan Rome. Saturnalia was celebrated in honor of the god of agriculture, who was named Saturn. During the time of Saturnalia, the entire Roman empire is in a state of social disarray. Servants and peasants spend time with and celebrate the holiday with people of higher classes, which was a rarity back then.

The Saturnalia festival in itself can last as long as an entire week in Rome. During that time, people rejoiced all over the country of Rome. The phrase ‘eat, drink, and be merry’ was played out to its fullest. Shops and businesses are closed during the Festival of Saturnalia. Following the first week of Saturnalia, the festival itself usually ends, but the Saturnalia period itself does not end.

In addition to Saturn, the Roman god of agriculture, the Romans also worshiped an infant type god named Methra, who was carved out of a rock. On Mithra’s birthday, people also rejoiced, just as they did during Saturnalia. The day of this rock god’s birthday was one of the most sacred days of the year for the Roman people. It was a time for celebration and togetherness, and for family.

Merry Christmas From AJN Inspection Services!

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Sealants are used in through-wall joints in some form or another regardless of the basic principle of the joint design. How well the joint seals and performs is greatly influenced by the effectiveness of this seal. Also keep in mind that the degree of tightness may be less significant for the control of rain penetration in one system than in another.

A seal is intended to prevent the passage of liquids or gases through the space or a gap between two components being joined, despite the differential movements between them. Various systems are being employed in the attempt to achieve the required seal at joints in exterior walls. The most common use elastomeric sealants and materials, plastic caulking materials (mastics), or compressed gaskets.

We will deal with the use of elastomeric sealants, but much of what is discussed could apply equally well to other sealants and materials.

Elastomeric sealants - Wonderful products of today’s modern technology. Elastomeric sealants are viscous liquids that cure to an elastic material with high extensibility and good cohesive and adhesive characteristics. These properties make elastomeric sealants suitable for sealing joints in exterior walls. Elastomeric sealants are installed in the field under a wide variety of conditions, on many different substrates, by persons with varying degrees of interest and ability in performing their jobs. Elastomeric sealants, in service, may also be subjected to severe deformation or harsh environmental conditions. It’s important to understand the design of the joints in which elastomeric sealants are to be employed and must be carefully considered. Surface preparation and installation techniques are of utmost importance in the sealants performance. But the shape, dimensions and location of the sealants bead are of equal or greater importance.

Shape and Dimension of Elastomeric Sealants

The shape of cured elastomeric sealants can be changed by force. The fact is, sometimes not appreciated, is that its volume will remain constant. When deformed by a change in joint width, the shape of the cross-section of a sealants bead must change because its area must remain constant. A square bead, when extended, will “neck-in,” but in doing so the surfaces free to deform are extended more than the center of the material so that the adhesion stress at the edges of the sealants bead becomes quite high (Figure 1a).

Figure 1. Sealant Bead Cross-Sections

a. deformation of square bead
b. deformation of deep bead
c. undesirable bead shapes
d. deformation of recommended bead shape
e. corner bead shape
f. bead shape commonly found in joints

When any stress at any point exceeds the adhesion strength, failure of sealants begins. It can result in total failure of the sealants adhesion from what should be referred to as a “peeling” action. Because the free surfaces of a deep bead must deform far more than those of a shallow bead, the risk of the sealants failure increases with bead depth (Figure 1b). It should also be recognized that if the free surface at either side of the bead is not of sufficient width over-stressing and failure can originate at this surface (Figure 1c).

Observing the deformation of different sealants bead cross-sections shows that, in general, sealants should adhere only at opposite surfaces and that the free surfaces should be concave. The majority of the strain in a bead of this shape (Figure 1d) occurs in its central portion where the cohesive property of elastomeric sealants is generally good. This property can also be determined in advance. There is a greater area for adhesion with this shape and stresses at the corners of the bead remain relatively low, minimizing the risk of peeling. This basic shape should be used for all sealant heads, including situations where the two surfaces meet at right angles (Figure 1e). Although a sealants bead can seldom tolerate the same percentage strain in compression as in tension, this cross-section improves its potential performance.

The shape factor of the sealants beads has been the subject of considerable study and it appears that the best performance can be expected only when a proper shape is employed. Air bubbles in the body of a sealant bead should be prevented because they tend to cause a local stress concentration in sealants. This particular stress concentration causes a cohesive failure which may propagate down the length of the bead in a “ripping” action, even without a further change in the joint width.

For a number of reasons it appears that a sealants bead should be wider than the width indicated by the laboratory-determined extensibility factor and the anticipated movements of the elements being joined. Dimensional variations due to manufacturing and erection inaccuracies, usually discussed under the subject of tolerances, must also be considered when determining the design joint width.

Several conditions must be met to achieve a desirable sealant bead cross-section. The depth of the reglet to receive the sealant must be established by a properly shaped backing of compressible material to which the sealant will not adhere (e.g. foamed polyethylene rope). This backing must be pinched, attached, or held in some way to prevent its movement under the pressure exerted during installation of the sealant. Sealants must be forced into the reglet so that it fills the intended space completely and is forced into intimate contact with the surfaces to which it is to adhere.

To fill a reglet properly some of the sealant must be forced to flow in the reglet in advance of the gun nozzle (Figure 2). Only when this is done can the fluid sealant be forced to fill the reglet and gain intimate contact with the side surfaces. To produce a concave upper surface, the nozzle tip should be shaped accordingly or the joint surface tooled. The sealants bead shown in Figure 1f is frequently found in joints and is obviously the result of poor installation; it has little chance of successful performance.

Figure 2. Installation of sealants

Adhesion of sealants is difficult to predict. It depends upon the nature of the substrate, the surface conditions at the time of the sealants installation, and the quality of the workmanship, in addition to the properties of the sealant itself. Priming prior to the sealants application helps improve adhesion and is essential with some material combinations. It may be desirable in most instances if only to provide an opportunity for examining the surfaces before installation of the sealant. The sealants manufacturer’s instructions should be followed.

Regardless of its position in a joint, the best performance can only be obtained from sealants when the bead has the proper shape and dimensions, and when good installation techniques have been employed.

The Sealants Joint Design

Joints in exterior walls must not permit rain penetration, excessive heat flow, vapor migration or air leakage despite inevitable differential movements between the elements being joined.

Rain penetration can only occur when there is an opening through which the water can pass and a force or combination of forces acting to move it inward. Rain penetration can be prevented if a perfect seal can be achieved and maintained. A perfect seal is not necessary to prevent rain penetration. It can be prevented by designing the joint geometry in such a way that all the forces that can act to drive water inward are controlled. This actually prohibits the use of an air seal at the wet plane. A seal inward from the wet plane is necessary, however, to resist air leakage through the joint so that the inward air pressure drop, the major force acting to drive water inward, can be controlled. If the air seal is located where it cannot be wet, rain penetration will not occur even at minor failures of this seal.

Heat flow at a joint is generally insignificant because of the small area involved unless air leakage occurs. Heat transfer can be reduced by incorporating a dead air space or an insulating material in the joint. The best thermal performance at a joint, however, requires proper design of the edges of the units being joined.

Water vapor migration by diffusion is a slow process and can generally be ignored, especially if there is no exterior seal in the joint. Severe water vapor condensation can occur, however, if humid air is permitted to flow by convection into cold spaces in the joint or to leak through the joint and contact cold surfaces.

Air leakage problems of dirt and odor entry, cold drafts, increased heating and cooling costs, and difficulty in maintaining humidity control can be prevented only by complete air tightness. As this is often impractical, it is fortunate that these problems can be accepted to varying degrees, depending upon the building occupancy. Some interstitial condensation can also be tolerated, depending upon how much there is, where it occurs, the design of the joint, and the materials involved. It is best, naturally, to prevent air leakage as much as possible, since it is instrumental in a majority of wall problems. It should also be mentioned that it is the most difficult mechanism to control.

A study of the requirements of joints shows that the seal in a joint is necessary only for the control of air leakage and that its minor failures can generally be tolerated.

Durability of Sealants

The seal in a joint must provide continuity of the function of the units being joined, not only immediately following installation but also for as long a period as possible, preferably for the life of the building. As with most materials, the properties of elastomeric sealants unfortunately tend to change through time, and this may result in a loss of their ability to perform their required functions. Durability is not an inherent property of any material, but is achieved by protecting it from most of the factors that cause or accelerate its deterioration. The designer who is aware of these factors and of the fundamentals of environmental separation should be able to develop a joint in which deterioration of the sealant is prevented or at least its rate reduced to a minimum.

Sealants located at the exterior of joints are exposed to solar radiation. The ultra-violet radiation and high temperatures that result accelerate the photo, oxidative degradation process. In this position, at the exterior of a joint, sealants must perform in the portion of a wall that is subjected to the greatest range of temperature variation and, consequently, to the greatest differential movements. In cold weather the sealant will be subjected to extreme deformation when it is least able to adjust to movement. The sealant and the materials to which it adheres will be subjected to frequent wetting; and the migration of water to the interface between substrate and sealant is frequently responsible for severe reduction or loss of adhesion. A sealant bead exposed to view outside or inside is subject to attack by inquisitive fingers and other forms of physical abuse. To provide a long service life a sealant should be protected as much as possible from all these “tortures.”

The sealant located toward the interior of a joint is protected from solar radiation, extremes of temperature, and from physical abuse. The sealant bead is only required to resist air leakage if rain water does not contact it. When air leakage is controlled by the part of a wall inward of the thermal insulation, the differential movements at the air seal in the joint will be at an absolute minimum. Moisture accumulation at the seal from condensation should be prevented by adequate thermal performance of the wall and joints.

Sealants located at the interior can be installed from inside the building and work can proceed despite the erection of panels on floors above. They can also be installed under weather conditions that might prohibit sealing at the exterior. The difficulty of installing sealants in joints located behind columns, beams and floor edges must not, however, be overlooked during design. It is not essential that sealant installation be performed from the building interior, but it is essential that the sealant be located at a reasonable distance behind the exterior surface.

Sealants can be protected from the major factors influencing its deterioration when it is located toward the interior side of the joint.

The best joint performance can only be achieved by consideration of all the subjects relating to joints. A successful joint is a compromise based on a thorough analysis of the factors influencing its performance. It is even possible for an inexpensive material properly used to give service far superior to that of the best material improperly used. The best performance from many sealants and the total joint can be gained by following these simple rules:

1. Design the joint so that the seal is located where it will have the least critical function to perform.
2. Design to protect sealants from factors that may cause or accelerate its deterioration.
3. Determine the magnitude and nature of the differential movements that will occur at the joint.
4. Select the sealant and design its bead cross section and dimensions in accordance with its properties and the conditions to which it will be subjected, and ensure that it is properly installed.

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Costly Mistake #1: Thinking you can’t afford it. Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own homes.

Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make.  In fact, most homeowners would be broke at retirement if it wasn’t for one saving grace — the equity in their homes.  Furthermore, tax allowances favor home ownership.

Costly Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection.

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Pilot lights are small flames that are kept alight constantly in order to serve as an ignition source for a gas burner. Pilot lights are used on many natural gas and propane appliances, such as water heaters, clothes dryers, central heating systems, fireplaces and stoves.

Pilot lights are fueled by a small amount of gas released from the gas pipe. When the appliance is turned on, a valve releases more gas, which is ignited by the pilot light. The light may need to be re-lit from time to time after being extinguished on purpose or by accident. Modern alternatives to pilot lights include a high-voltage electric arc between two electrodes placed close to the gas flow, and a red-hot surface made from silicon carbide, silicon nitride, or another material that can withstand prolonged heat exposure. While most commercial kitchens still rely on pilot lights for ovens and grills, their residential counterparts typically use electrical ignitions.

Safety With Pilot Lights

Modern appliances that use pilot lights should be equipped with one or more of the following sensors types:

• a photo-resistor, which detects the light emitted by pilot lights;
• a thermometer, which detects the heat created by pilot lights; or
• a voltmeter, which detects the electrical current created by the heat of the flame as it warms a thermocouple.  A thermocouple is a device that creates a voltage related to the temperature difference at the junction of two different metals.

Natural gas and propane can usually be detected by building occupants by their odor, which is added to these naturally odorless fuels specifically to alert people to a lurking danger. Numerous injuries have been reported, however, when homeowners have tried to re-light a pilot light after the appliance’s malfunctioning sensor failed to stop the flow of gas into the room. Thermocouple are degraded by continued exposure to the pilot lights flame, which increases their electrical resistance and reduces their effectiveness as flame sensors. Periodic testing and replacement of these devices will mitigate the safety hazards posed by pilot light-equipped appliances.

While many inspectors and homeowners may not be aware of the danger, a number of houses are destroyed every year when a pilot light ignites the explosive gasses released from insecticide “bug bombs” and foggers. A fire erupted in a Newburgh, Ohio house after a man placed a roach fumigator under his kitchen sink and the fumes reached his oven’s pilot light. Even worse, when homeowners employ a recklessly large number of these foggers, they can generate enough gas to create a catastrophic explosion, and the determination of homeowners driven mad by cockroaches and fleas is occasionally enough incentive for them to employ such overkill. In one case, 19 foggers were unleashed in a 470-square foot San Diego home, filling the building with so much gas that the pilot light destroyed the home and launched shrapnel into the street. Fortunately, foggers are typically used in buildings that have been vacated. Three men were hospitalized, however, when an oven’s pilot light in a Thai restaurant in Perth, Australia ignited the gas released from 36 foggers – enough to blow the roof off the building in a massive explosion that rocked the suburban neighborhood, causing $500,000 in damages.

Pilot Lights and Energy Waste

Pilot lights are not needed for the majority of the time that they’re lit, which is how they waste a large amount of fuel. The exact amount of energy wasted depends on the unit, but various studies report that a pilot light burns $7.50 to $18 per month of natural gas, and even more for propane-fueled appliances. Pilot lights waste more than 20% of the gas used in the United States, according to Cornell Environmental Health and Safety. A constantly burning pilot light also adds heat to the house, which might be useful in the winter, but adds to the heat load in the summer and places an unnecessarily greater burden on the air-conditioning system. Even in the winter, the appliance may be located in a utility room or other area that doesn’t require heating. Also, typical pilot lights can generate 450 pounds of carbon dioxide – a greenhouse gas — over a six-month period.

If an appliance isn’t needed for a long period of time, its pilot light may be extinguished to save energy, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and reduce the risk of fire or explosion. Concerned homeowners can also purchase appliances equipped with the aforementioned alternatives to pilot lights. If they have any additional issues or concerns related to pilot lights or fuel-burning appliances, they should consult with an InterNACHI inspector during their next scheduled inspection.

Pilot lights are a somewhat antiquated technology plagued by fears concerning fire and energy waste.

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Central vacuum systems (sometimes called a whole-house vacuum system) are cleaning devices installed throughout a building. Located in the garage or basement, a canister receives dust and debris sucked by the force of a motor from wall outlets, which are located for the homeowner’s convenience.

Central vacuum systems boast some advantages over portable units, some of which are as follows:

• Central vacuum systems are long-lasting. Their motors can handle more usage than typical portable units. Warranties, too, are usually longer for central units.
• They are quiet. Because the motor is located outside the living area, users are not subjected to noise created by the motor, which can be excessive and stressful.
• Central vacuum systems can be retrofitted into older houses, or built into new construction.
• They are a good investment. Just as a kitchen renovation or new deck will make a home more valuable, many buyers will pay extra for a house equipped with a central vacuum.
• Central vacuum systems are hypo-allergenic. Unlike portable vacuums, which recycle air back into the room, dust-laden air is blown into the outdoors from central vacuum systems. One comprehensive study conducted at the University of California at Davis’ School of Medicine compared portable to central units and concluded that “a central vacuuming system would best provide [allergen removal] as it would be installed outside the living area of the dwelling and/or vented outdoors.”
• The central vacuum system is easy and safe to use. There is no heavy equipment to carry from room to room, and no electric cords to trip over or catch on furniture.

Types of central vacuum cleaners available include:

• cyclonic, in which air is spun in a canister and exhausted to the outdoors. Location is critical for these units, as it is possible for exhausted, debris-laden air to find its way back into the house through open windows. The filter must be removed and cleaned periodically;
• inverted filter, in which the dirt enters the central vacuum canister amidst a tornado-like swirl of air. The canister must be emptied periodically, and always outside of the home. Allergy sufferers may find disposal unpleasant, as mold and other debris become airborne; and
• disposable bag, in which dirt is sucked into a paper bag in the same fashion as for portable units. This is perhaps the cleanest and most hygienic method available, as mold spores, bacteria and other debris are physically separated and stored in a bag from which they cannot escape.

The disadvantages of central vacuum systems include:

• price. A good system can cost $1,500, which is significantly more expensive than even premium portable vacuum cleaners;
• damage caused by items sucked up inadvertently. With greater power comes higher risk that large items will be sucked up, potentially causing damage to the unit. Tales abound of units becoming jammed or broken when they swallow, often at the hands of children, broken jars of jelly, toilet water, and even pet birds. Portable units are usually too weak to readily suck up items that can cause them to break;
• a system compromised by weak suction.  Such a problem may be due to obstructed pipes or exhaust, an excessively dirty filter, or a full canister that needs to be emptied. If the unit does not operate at all, the motor might be broken, a breaker may have tripped, or the wiring may be defective.

Central vacuum systems are convenient, powerful and expensive home-cleaning devices.

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