<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" media="screen" href="/~d/styles/atom10full.xsl"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" media="screen" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~d/styles/itemcontent.css"?><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:openSearch="http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearch/1.1/" xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr="http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0" gd:etag="W/&quot;A08ARXg4fCp7ImA9WhVTEE8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737</id><updated>2012-02-23T20:44:04.634Z</updated><category term="South Africa" /><category term="luxury game lodge" /><category term="White Umfolozi" /><category term="South Africa Ice Climb" /><category term="Makaza" /><category term="Leopard Mountain" /><category term="Ice climbing" /><category term="Cairngorms" /><category term="Eland" /><category term="Giants Castle" /><category term="Clean sweep" /><category term="South Africa Rock climb" /><category term="Rock Climbing" /><category term="Tower Ridge Guiding Scramble Scotland Ben Nevis" /><category term="Waterval Boven" /><category term="South Africa Sport Climbing" /><category term="Jetty Crag" /><category term="Welcome" /><title>Alan Halewood</title><subtitle type="html">Alan's blog showing his personal and working climbing.</subtitle><link rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/" /><link rel="next" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default?start-index=26&amp;max-results=25&amp;redirect=false&amp;v=2" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><generator version="7.00" uri="http://www.blogger.com">Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>867</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/AlanHalewood" /><feedburner:info xmlns:feedburner="http://rssnamespace.org/feedburner/ext/1.0" uri="alanhalewood" /><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="hub" href="http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/" /><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DkUCRHc4fyp7ImA9WhVTEE8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-4999355902441714026</id><published>2012-02-23T18:56:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-23T19:11:05.937Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-23T19:11:05.937Z</app:edited><title>Trading places</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5CXLeOcld5g/T0aOhedGWyI/AAAAAAAAHxs/2OxjHDsBByg/s1600/P1060616.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5CXLeOcld5g/T0aOhedGWyI/AAAAAAAAHxs/2OxjHDsBByg/s320/P1060616.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712409883127995170" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Warming up the team&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lpD5NfZwVp8/T0aOhOT9DWI/AAAAAAAAHxg/gxQCAXtlmUc/s1600/P1060623.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lpD5NfZwVp8/T0aOhOT9DWI/AAAAAAAAHxg/gxQCAXtlmUc/s320/P1060623.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712409878794669410" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Team Lodge in the ice wall&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dBYA_RtVC4o/T0aOgwr6iTI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/f2REuZNNo0M/s1600/P1060626.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dBYA_RtVC4o/T0aOgwr6iTI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/f2REuZNNo0M/s320/P1060626.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712409870842104114" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Placing a screw&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MKGNQ2ZELKY/T0aOgUIsH-I/AAAAAAAAHxI/7VWGnhZ0nYM/s1600/P1060630.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MKGNQ2ZELKY/T0aOgUIsH-I/AAAAAAAAHxI/7VWGnhZ0nYM/s320/P1060630.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712409863178166242" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;BD Express&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBbaTsRpFFw/T0aOgNkMijI/AAAAAAAAHw8/8eHav2R6Hx4/s1600/P1060632.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBbaTsRpFFw/T0aOgNkMijI/AAAAAAAAHw8/8eHav2R6Hx4/s320/P1060632.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712409861414488626" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Axes? Who needs 'em&lt;/div&gt;Today we traded places with the &lt;a href="http://www.adventurepeaks.com/"&gt;Adventure Peaks&lt;/a&gt; team. We headed West to &lt;a href="http://www.ice-factor.co.uk/"&gt;The Ice Factor&lt;/a&gt; and passed their bus heading east to the Cairngorms. &lt;div&gt;We had time for a little revision of yesterday's ropework and looked at the using a french prussik to back up a personal abseil before heading into the ice wall for 2 hours of technique work in the big fridge.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Things were brightening up enough for us to be shocked by the spring like conditions we could see in the Cairngorms as we headed back to &lt;a href="http://www.ice-factor.co.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt;. I've seen more snow in May!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-4999355902441714026?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/4999355902441714026/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=4999355902441714026" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4999355902441714026?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4999355902441714026?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/trading-places.html" title="Trading places" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5CXLeOcld5g/T0aOhedGWyI/AAAAAAAAHxs/2OxjHDsBByg/s72-c/P1060616.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;A08FRX49eyp7ImA9WhRaGU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-7170452961262839723</id><published>2012-02-22T16:43:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-22T16:56:54.063Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-22T16:56:54.063Z</app:edited><title>Tools for winter.... when it comes back... if.....</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MoCfKAZ-pK4/T0UdV1PxIpI/AAAAAAAAHww/49IokU0ffEU/s1600/P1060604.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MoCfKAZ-pK4/T0UdV1PxIpI/AAAAAAAAHww/49IokU0ffEU/s320/P1060604.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712003963297014418" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Precision&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPGlx0tV_r0/T0UdVo3CHzI/AAAAAAAAHwk/vkywFctfVG8/s1600/P1060611.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPGlx0tV_r0/T0UdVo3CHzI/AAAAAAAAHwk/vkywFctfVG8/s320/P1060611.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712003959972044594" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Posture&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bFjjqcam-hY/T0UdVHWuzTI/AAAAAAAAHwc/3bIEqCJqmjA/s1600/P1060612.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bFjjqcam-hY/T0UdVHWuzTI/AAAAAAAAHwc/3bIEqCJqmjA/s320/P1060612.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712003950978190642" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Picks&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_ABhH1GWI2U/T0UdU4L_yLI/AAAAAAAAHwM/34IS7ZwbRgA/s1600/P1060614.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_ABhH1GWI2U/T0UdU4L_yLI/AAAAAAAAHwM/34IS7ZwbRgA/s320/P1060614.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5712003946906634418" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;And v threads (ok...I ran out of 'p's)&lt;/div&gt;Day 3 of our Winter Climbing Into. at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; and things are not looking great. Rain all night and forecast for the morning and more mild gales. Still, never say die.&lt;div&gt;We began with couple of hours on the granite towers at the Lodge looking at simple climbing movement on off vertical ground. First in boots, then with crampons and finally with axes too.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Then we made a flying visit to a very sorry looking Coire an t Sneachda. There is not a single line complete in the coire and even the ice patches were looking smaller today. Also a lot of rock and ice fall due to the heavy thaw conditions- take care anywhere beneath the crags, let alone in the Gullies.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We used one of the remaining tongues of snow too look at bucket seats and buried axes- pitching up to a rock wall where we could learn to place pegs. Next to that was a convenient ice boss for the lads to use to create a couple of v threads. We linked these and abseiled down the snow slope to make a snow bollard for a second abseil before running for home.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;A good look at a range of tools for winter. Now.... if only it would pay use a visit. I have a funny feeling that we might get a cold March.....&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-7170452961262839723?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/7170452961262839723/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=7170452961262839723" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7170452961262839723?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7170452961262839723?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/tools-for-winter-when-it-comes-back-if.html" title="Tools for winter.... when it comes back... if....." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MoCfKAZ-pK4/T0UdV1PxIpI/AAAAAAAAHww/49IokU0ffEU/s72-c/P1060604.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUAEQHY4eCp7ImA9WhRaGEg.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-6484451794161274485</id><published>2012-02-21T19:38:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-21T19:48:21.830Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-21T19:48:21.830Z</app:edited><title>Take 20 seconds for LMRT...</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://lochabermrt.co.uk/"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 98px; height: 98px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmYEcURS-C0/T0PzeRmi8mI/AAAAAAAAHwA/NIHoBeCo2hQ/s320/58602_126730860709459_126730547376157_155964_4204188_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711676453882622562" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Please spare a 'Like' (or better still a few quid) for Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team's &lt;a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lochaber-Mountain-Rescue-Team/126730547376157?ref=ts"&gt;facebook page&lt;/a&gt;. Some good images, interesting video clips and you'll keep up to date with what's going on with the Team.&lt;div&gt;The hard working volunteers are there for us if we need them. They put in a great deal of time and effort to train for unfortunate incidents like &lt;a href="http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2012/02/20/climber-in-nevis-fall-is-in-serious-but-stable-condition"&gt;sunday's tragic accident&lt;/a&gt; on Ben Nevis and then may be out in all weathers on any day of the year on one of the busiest, serious and unforgiving patches in the UK.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;To visit their website click on the logo above. To make a donation (no matter how small or large) go &lt;a href="http://lochabermrt.co.uk/donate/"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-6484451794161274485?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/6484451794161274485/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=6484451794161274485" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6484451794161274485?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6484451794161274485?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/take-20-seconds-for-lmrt.html" title="Take 20 seconds for LMRT..." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmYEcURS-C0/T0PzeRmi8mI/AAAAAAAAHwA/NIHoBeCo2hQ/s72-c/58602_126730860709459_126730547376157_155964_4204188_n.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;A04ASXk6fCp7ImA9WhRaGEk.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-4556049062449938926</id><published>2012-02-21T18:36:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-21T18:45:48.714Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-21T18:45:48.714Z</app:edited><title>LEAN in Sneachda</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J75Qb-PIKyY/T0PlC-klPRI/AAAAAAAAHv0/0bFvbSdrNI4/s1600/P1060573.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J75Qb-PIKyY/T0PlC-klPRI/AAAAAAAAHv0/0bFvbSdrNI4/s320/P1060573.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711660591754853650" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Lean and Green&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XR5a0H0jvS8/T0PlCjlaowI/AAAAAAAAHvo/5bT29MqPNu8/s1600/P1060577.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 234px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XR5a0H0jvS8/T0PlCjlaowI/AAAAAAAAHvo/5bT29MqPNu8/s320/P1060577.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711660584510595842" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;But there's still a wee bit of nice ice&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NpLpV26TkfE/T0PlB91uBFI/AAAAAAAAHvc/w7KIB57uRhY/s1600/P1060595.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NpLpV26TkfE/T0PlB91uBFI/AAAAAAAAHvc/w7KIB57uRhY/s320/P1060595.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711660574378427474" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Jacob's Ladder&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8VAsUrDVV2s/T0PlBTHfsII/AAAAAAAAHvQ/4hlyikmrIzM/s1600/P1060596.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8VAsUrDVV2s/T0PlBTHfsII/AAAAAAAAHvQ/4hlyikmrIzM/s320/P1060596.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711660562910261378" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Waiting patiently&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UkTVspnQHCQ/T0PlBH-SgWI/AAAAAAAAHvE/MHYQ2LDdzJU/s1600/P1060599.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UkTVspnQHCQ/T0PlBH-SgWI/AAAAAAAAHvE/MHYQ2LDdzJU/s320/P1060599.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711660559918858594" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;We(s)t Coast glove technology&lt;/div&gt;Day 2 of my Intro to Winter Climbing Course for &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; and it was back to Coire an t Sneachda in slightly drier (but no cooler) conditions than yesterday. Our focus today was on getting an opportunity for Eamon and Mark  to place some gear and build some belays for themselves and walking in I could see snow reaching pretty much the whole way up Jacob's Ladder. &lt;div&gt;Derek had the same idea and we were happy to keep to our respective sides of the gully and avoid the crowds in Aladdin's Couloir and the Trident Gullys (and the rockfall we could hear). &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I seem to have an awful lot of grass on my axes and crampons for a winter climbing course though.......&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-4556049062449938926?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/4556049062449938926/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=4556049062449938926" title="2 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4556049062449938926?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4556049062449938926?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/lean-in-sneachda.html" title="LEAN in Sneachda" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J75Qb-PIKyY/T0PlC-klPRI/AAAAAAAAHv0/0bFvbSdrNI4/s72-c/P1060573.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D0MDQ309fSp7ImA9WhRaF0o.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-4920882321652803186</id><published>2012-02-20T21:48:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-20T22:04:32.365Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-20T22:04:32.365Z</app:edited><title>No other word for it but..... wet</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_yRJJzrbREw/T0LCk0mqlXI/AAAAAAAAHu4/c9NGkanSTaE/s1600/P1060571.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_yRJJzrbREw/T0LCk0mqlXI/AAAAAAAAHu4/c9NGkanSTaE/s320/P1060571.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711341215311107442" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Day 1 of a climbing course at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; today....&lt;div&gt;Forecast? Far from inspiring. Look out the window at breakfast? Whitish. Look out of the window at staff meeting? Hmm, sure its looking blacker. Looking into the Coire on the walk in? Ok now I can actually see the snow stripping in front of me!!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We jumped onto Spiral Gully which was thin ice/wet snow/frozen turf. It also got a lot thinner as most of the snow and ice changed to water and flowed down or blew up the gully as the day went on. Still 6 and a bit pitches of II/III today and I got to place an ice screw and the guys got to use their tools and a route under their belts.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Tomorrow we'll slow the pace and do a bit of teaching on some of what's left and wintery looking.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;The picture is of a member of the Irish team ahead of us. Bit different from the weekend.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-4920882321652803186?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/4920882321652803186/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=4920882321652803186" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4920882321652803186?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4920882321652803186?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/no-other-word-for-it-but-wet.html" title="No other word for it but..... wet" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_yRJJzrbREw/T0LCk0mqlXI/AAAAAAAAHu4/c9NGkanSTaE/s72-c/P1060571.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUYHRn4zeSp7ImA9WhRaFks.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-7697567912146603227</id><published>2012-02-18T21:06:00.006Z</published><updated>2012-02-19T14:52:17.081Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-19T14:52:17.081Z</app:edited><title>A WINTER weekend</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBw978iKAUs/T0AWH6KRdcI/AAAAAAAAHuo/7lH9fyY_NLQ/s1600/P1060462.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBw978iKAUs/T0AWH6KRdcI/AAAAAAAAHuo/7lH9fyY_NLQ/s320/P1060462.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588652633028034" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Digging in&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PcNtUFZkG0Q/T0AWG5UOTmI/AAAAAAAAHug/R0urtYQO824/s1600/P1060481.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PcNtUFZkG0Q/T0AWG5UOTmI/AAAAAAAAHug/R0urtYQO824/s320/P1060481.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588635226459746" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Home is a hole in the snow&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DsNX1GXtKrQ/T0AWGlERHAI/AAAAAAAAHuQ/aKiamyQIYeM/s1600/P1060493.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DsNX1GXtKrQ/T0AWGlERHAI/AAAAAAAAHuQ/aKiamyQIYeM/s320/P1060493.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588629790825474" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Night nav in wild weather&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ETvyn-ogSM/T0AWGI8Is3I/AAAAAAAAHuE/rmTEA-Mfqxc/s1600/P1060500.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ETvyn-ogSM/T0AWGI8Is3I/AAAAAAAAHuE/rmTEA-Mfqxc/s320/P1060500.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588622240527218" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Buried..... again....&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6QwkOkTaVdE/T0AVi-7uNVI/AAAAAAAAHt4/djndceCCdV0/s1600/P1060502.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6QwkOkTaVdE/T0AVi-7uNVI/AAAAAAAAHt4/djndceCCdV0/s320/P1060502.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588018259014994" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Help from without&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XdDMriN-wv4/T0AVipBTPSI/AAAAAAAAHto/gwgPuHYIO50/s1600/P1060504.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XdDMriN-wv4/T0AVipBTPSI/AAAAAAAAHto/gwgPuHYIO50/s320/P1060504.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710588012376833314" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Winter returns!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPfIsWXhYmY/T0AVhyhHHVI/AAAAAAAAHtg/FN1dohtofYY/s1600/P1060509.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPfIsWXhYmY/T0AVhyhHHVI/AAAAAAAAHtg/FN1dohtofYY/s320/P1060509.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710587997746306386" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Layers&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wRGXGG9gLc8/T0AVhNWC0OI/AAAAAAAAHtQ/Up0HnFqPfV0/s1600/P1060517.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wRGXGG9gLc8/T0AVhNWC0OI/AAAAAAAAHtQ/Up0HnFqPfV0/s320/P1060517.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710587987767775458" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Exploring the snowpack&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VHw2HTIrngQ/T0AVgvGTukI/AAAAAAAAHtE/HL4qKy_lYY4/s1600/P1060519.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 243px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VHw2HTIrngQ/T0AVgvGTukI/AAAAAAAAHtE/HL4qKy_lYY4/s320/P1060519.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710587979648711234" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Karl&lt;/div&gt;Just spent the last 2 days on the Winter Mountain Leader Training minibreak in the Cairngorms. We had a good dusting of snow and a cold wind yesterday as we headed up the west ridge of Coire nan Lochain then toured the rim of the coires to finish by popping around the back of Cairngorm to Ciste Mhearaidh.&lt;br /&gt;Here the team dug snowholes whilst Karl and I, ahem, adopted a nice in situ one. Digging, dinner and then time to go out for some poor vis nav. Cairngorm weather station recorded a gust of 102mph around the time we were staggering around in the rain. Its all done to good purpose as the team picked up a lot of tips on what does and doesn't work trying to navigate in foul weather and poor visibility.&lt;br /&gt;Karl grunted at some point early this morning and then let his language slip. The doorway was gone. The temperature had dropped and the rain turned to snow which had buried us completely. We dressed and dug ourselves out before following the rope we had left leading into each (now invisible) doorway to excavate the 3 group snowholes. After that we all took it in turns to keep entrances clear- they were filling in every 30-40 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;Up and packed we decided to make use of the fresh snow to compare a number of different practical tests to use (or maybe not use) when assessing snow conditions for safe travel. There were at least 3 clear layers in the snowpack and shears were easily observed on hand shear tests, trenching and tap testing. I approached the top of a walking rutschblock and the slope around it failed before I got anywhere near it.&lt;br /&gt;Then a final bit of navigation to get out before the weather went ballistic on cue and as forecast. We reviewed our experience and the course and said farewell to our students as the snow fell heavily at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; this afternoon.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37030766?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-7697567912146603227?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/7697567912146603227/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=7697567912146603227" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7697567912146603227?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7697567912146603227?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/winter-weekend.html" title="A WINTER weekend" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBw978iKAUs/T0AWH6KRdcI/AAAAAAAAHuo/7lH9fyY_NLQ/s72-c/P1060462.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkINRnY5cSp7ImA9WhRaFE8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-5079399265874143243</id><published>2012-02-16T18:39:00.002Z</published><updated>2012-02-16T19:29:57.829Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-16T19:29:57.829Z</app:edited><title>A spring day??</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uiEJqTTP68w/Tz1QFX0GJWI/AAAAAAAAHs4/032PZLB7Pno/s1600/P1060430.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uiEJqTTP68w/Tz1QFX0GJWI/AAAAAAAAHs4/032PZLB7Pno/s320/P1060430.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709807955797747042" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-szrSqINpi_E/Tz1QEi7dEUI/AAAAAAAAHsw/qRBYulEGCaI/s1600/P1060436.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-szrSqINpi_E/Tz1QEi7dEUI/AAAAAAAAHsw/qRBYulEGCaI/s320/P1060436.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709807941601530178" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT3t5k4mbKE/Tz1QEe86kiI/AAAAAAAAHsg/cvUEZTTeYvo/s1600/P1060437.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XT3t5k4mbKE/Tz1QEe86kiI/AAAAAAAAHsg/cvUEZTTeYvo/s320/P1060437.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709807940533916194" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--RxhBYUfozo/Tz1QDWG_WtI/AAAAAAAAHsY/FnXCu-7NlJo/s1600/P1060439.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--RxhBYUfozo/Tz1QDWG_WtI/AAAAAAAAHsY/FnXCu-7NlJo/s320/P1060439.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709807920980384466" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0x5zCfOQKA/Tz1QC-rZD-I/AAAAAAAAHsI/nhgYHgzieG8/s1600/P1060440.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 244px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0x5zCfOQKA/Tz1QC-rZD-I/AAAAAAAAHsI/nhgYHgzieG8/s320/P1060440.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709807914690613218" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;It started a bit murky in the Cairngorms today but was fine and pleasant by the end of the day. The clear vis gave me a chance to see how sorry for themselves the climbing and ski areas are looking (although to be fair the easier gully lines in Sneachda look pretty complete if thin and icey). We could do with some cold and some snow.&lt;div&gt;Day 4 of the &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; Winter ML Training was a mountain journey to put all the tools looked at yesterday into context and look at decision making. My group navigated into the little 'hidden' coire between Fiacaill a Coire an t Sneachda and Coire an Lochain. Here we looked at confidence roping and put a couple of pitches in to get out up the coire head wall.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Then it was over to the top of 'point 5' the wee gully left of the Goat Track to look at preparing the edge where there was a bit of a wind lip and descent by stomper and snow bollard. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We were joined by some brave folk who had decided to wander down the gully all tied onto one rope.... rather them than me!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Off on the mini break tomorrow.... now where shall we go snow holing?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36915524?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-5079399265874143243?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/5079399265874143243/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=5079399265874143243" title="2 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/5079399265874143243?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/5079399265874143243?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/spring-day.html" title="A spring day??" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uiEJqTTP68w/Tz1QFX0GJWI/AAAAAAAAHs4/032PZLB7Pno/s72-c/P1060430.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DE4GRX84fSp7ImA9WhRaE04.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-3706591582928628277</id><published>2012-02-15T19:50:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-15T20:15:24.135Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-15T20:15:24.135Z</app:edited><title>Day 3 and 4th Coire</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Y-b0DG8e6w/TzwRsNRej_I/AAAAAAAAHr8/OGE2uouT3bQ/s1600/P1060422.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Y-b0DG8e6w/TzwRsNRej_I/AAAAAAAAHr8/OGE2uouT3bQ/s320/P1060422.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709457878773829618" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Soggy&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w1qPbIBBpiw/TzwRqK0ocXI/AAAAAAAAHr0/Zx27lWAuPww/s1600/P1060423.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w1qPbIBBpiw/TzwRqK0ocXI/AAAAAAAAHr0/Zx27lWAuPww/s320/P1060423.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709457843756233074" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Stripping&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yFpkRHQe9Hk/TzwRp_Ht-xI/AAAAAAAAHrk/o9tcKfgVfzs/s1600/P1060424.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yFpkRHQe9Hk/TzwRp_Ht-xI/AAAAAAAAHrk/o9tcKfgVfzs/s320/P1060424.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709457840615062290" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Moist&lt;/div&gt;First it was Lochain, then Cas and Sneachda and today it was Coire Laoigh Mor for our Winter ML Trainees at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt;. It was what I think of as a 'nuts and bolts' day today. We were looking at various winter ropework tools such as: bucket seats, buried horizontal axes, stompers and snow bollards. The snow pack was pretty wet so I was particularly glad to have a thick long pair of rubber gloves to dig with!&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-3706591582928628277?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/3706591582928628277/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=3706591582928628277" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3706591582928628277?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3706591582928628277?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/day-3-and-4th-coire.html" title="Day 3 and 4th Coire" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Y-b0DG8e6w/TzwRsNRej_I/AAAAAAAAHr8/OGE2uouT3bQ/s72-c/P1060422.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;AkIGQnY-fCp7ImA9WhRaEkk.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-474617732303229071</id><published>2012-02-14T19:30:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-14T19:42:03.854Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-14T19:42:03.854Z</app:edited><title>Rime on day 2</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8IXUXHXHbnc/Tzq4RiccfMI/AAAAAAAAHrM/cAghO2vfxSM/s1600/P1060415.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8IXUXHXHbnc/Tzq4RiccfMI/AAAAAAAAHrM/cAghO2vfxSM/s320/P1060415.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709078089088924866" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;There's a horizon up there somewhere&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IRlYTUs88MU/Tzq4PwudrHI/AAAAAAAAHq8/On4n0cxtuTE/s1600/P1060418.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IRlYTUs88MU/Tzq4PwudrHI/AAAAAAAAHq8/On4n0cxtuTE/s320/P1060418.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709078058562858098" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Rime time&lt;/div&gt;Second day with the Winter ML Trainees at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; today and we headed for Coire Cas. On the way up we looked at contour features (important in winter as they may be the only information you get- even in poor vis you can feel changes in angle with your feet) and when we hit the snow we put crampons on early as part of discussing a learning progression for beginners.&lt;div&gt;On the side of the Ficaill a Coire Chais we carried on our cramponing and spoke to Mark Diggins of &lt;a href="http://www.sais.gov.uk/latest-forecasts.asp"&gt;SAIS&lt;/a&gt; about his work and what he'd discovered today.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Up to 1141 and a little navigation on the plateau (lots of rime about but it was dripping wet by early afternoon at that height) before dropping down windy col to the moraines. Here the team did a great impression of moles disappearing into the snow in 20 minutes digging the first 15 with an axe and the last 5 with a shovel for comparison.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36785181?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-474617732303229071?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/474617732303229071/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=474617732303229071" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/474617732303229071?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/474617732303229071?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/rime-on-day-2.html" title="Rime on day 2" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8IXUXHXHbnc/Tzq4RiccfMI/AAAAAAAAHrM/cAghO2vfxSM/s72-c/P1060415.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CEYGQXc9eyp7ImA9WhRaEUs.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-7483822556037967876</id><published>2012-02-13T19:30:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-13T19:42:00.963Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-13T19:42:00.963Z</app:edited><title>Winter ML Training</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3NUXpgQNPo/TzlmcbSoi6I/AAAAAAAAHqs/k4LqlWs_ZHs/s1600/P1060408.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3NUXpgQNPo/TzlmcbSoi6I/AAAAAAAAHqs/k4LqlWs_ZHs/s320/P1060408.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708706641217096610" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Learning to walk again&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oujeG4F-JRQ/TzlmbJ1zCiI/AAAAAAAAHqg/vsNDWwiZtU0/s1600/P1060409.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oujeG4F-JRQ/TzlmbJ1zCiI/AAAAAAAAHqg/vsNDWwiZtU0/s320/P1060409.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708706619352877602" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Nice follow through&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZuNSg7N7Yo/TzlmaaKsZQI/AAAAAAAAHqY/v0F28Zt8nSA/s1600/P1060412.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 243px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZuNSg7N7Yo/TzlmaaKsZQI/AAAAAAAAHqY/v0F28Zt8nSA/s320/P1060412.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708706606555620610" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Spot the old crown wall&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3wClTnPGOLs/TzlmaEGa4XI/AAAAAAAAHqI/RCZzFMbgeuc/s1600/P1060414.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3wClTnPGOLs/TzlmaEGa4XI/AAAAAAAAHqI/RCZzFMbgeuc/s320/P1060414.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5708706600632115570" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;A helping hand&lt;/div&gt;After a weekend off with the family I'm back at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; working Winter ML Training Course. Things look quite lean from low down but there was plenty of snow for us in Coire an Lochain today (there were a couple of teams playing on the ice bulges below the west end of the crags too).&lt;div&gt;Today was all about stepping, slipping and stopping slides... and how to present it to students.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-7483822556037967876?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/7483822556037967876/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=7483822556037967876" title="2 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7483822556037967876?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7483822556037967876?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/winter-ml-training.html" title="Winter ML Training" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3NUXpgQNPo/TzlmcbSoi6I/AAAAAAAAHqs/k4LqlWs_ZHs/s72-c/P1060408.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUYDR345eip7ImA9WhRbGEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-4540510194393813805</id><published>2012-02-10T11:09:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-10T11:26:16.022Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-10T11:26:16.022Z</app:edited><title>Looking after yourself on the East and the West</title><content type="html">This isn't a post about winter skills but more a plug for 2 friends. Most of the Instructors and climbers I know have niggling long term injuries and this pair can help you with problems if you've got them. Also why wait until its too late? Sports massage or a full body MOT could be really useful in the prevention of injury and maintenance of health and wellbeing.&lt;div&gt;On the west Jacqui is my local Private Physio who gets consulted by runners, Guides and Instructors in Lochaber so she is very familiar with the type of injuries active outdoors people get. She's helping me with my knees and is probably the best reason I can work this winter! &lt;a href="http://www.lochaberphysiotherapy.co.uk/"&gt; http://www.lochaberphysiotherapy.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;On the East Kirsty has been offering sports and remedial massage out of a base at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; for some time and there are few of the Instructors who haven't had sessions with her to aid in recovery and to keep them in a condition to enable them to go on the hill. A good session with Kirsty will help you recover from injury or aid in the maintenance of your body to prevent them happening.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.kirstywrightmassage.com/"&gt;http://www.kirstywrightmassage.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Stay well!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-4540510194393813805?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/4540510194393813805/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=4540510194393813805" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4540510194393813805?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/4540510194393813805?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/looking-after-yourself-on-east-and-west.html" title="Looking after yourself on the East and the West" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkQCRHo5fyp7ImA9WhRbGEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-7221916735639708595</id><published>2012-02-10T10:34:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-10T10:39:25.427Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-10T10:39:25.427Z</app:edited><title>Highs and lows of the last week</title><content type="html">Here is a 5 minute video of the MIC Assessment at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; this week. Many thanks to both the hard working candidates and the Assessment team for the week and good luck to the candidates in their future instructional careers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36513966?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-7221916735639708595?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/7221916735639708595/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=7221916735639708595" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7221916735639708595?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/7221916735639708595?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/highs-and-lows-of-last-week.html" title="Highs and lows of the last week" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUICSH4-cSp7ImA9WhRbGEw.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-2945256822560438791</id><published>2012-02-09T18:55:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-09T19:59:29.059Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-09T19:59:29.059Z</app:edited><title>All change again...</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1KQK3KVBq1Y/TzQXNTE-8XI/AAAAAAAAHp0/wsFeNZ1Jv5o/s1600/P1060371.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1KQK3KVBq1Y/TzQXNTE-8XI/AAAAAAAAHp0/wsFeNZ1Jv5o/s320/P1060371.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707212145012175218" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YuhFkDsE0U/TzQXMSainAI/AAAAAAAAHpo/tJkb7h3dRgQ/s1600/P1060372.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2YuhFkDsE0U/TzQXMSainAI/AAAAAAAAHpo/tJkb7h3dRgQ/s320/P1060372.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707212127654288386" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ussONoISKMg/TzQXLyJYLeI/AAAAAAAAHpc/qKFJznfhQIo/s1600/P1060394.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ussONoISKMg/TzQXLyJYLeI/AAAAAAAAHpc/qKFJznfhQIo/s320/P1060394.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707212118992367074" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zrqhlCXwyoo/TzQXLbsf56I/AAAAAAAAHpQ/u1p_N93PauY/s1600/P1060398.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 259px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zrqhlCXwyoo/TzQXLbsf56I/AAAAAAAAHpQ/u1p_N93PauY/s320/P1060398.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707212112965658530" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGZYg_nQd0Q/TzQXK5z6-7I/AAAAAAAAHpE/SMVlDPpo2c0/s1600/P1060405.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGZYg_nQd0Q/TzQXK5z6-7I/AAAAAAAAHpE/SMVlDPpo2c0/s1600/P1060405.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uGZYg_nQd0Q/TzQXK5z6-7I/AAAAAAAAHpE/SMVlDPpo2c0/s320/P1060405.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707212103869987762" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Final hill day for the MIC Candidates on Assessment at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; this week and it was a complete contrast to yesterday's first teaching day. The teams all heading in to a very mild and still Coire an t Sneachda for day 2 with the mock students. There has been a loss of snow and certainly where we were in Central Gully what looked like ice had entered what I called the 'fourth state' (not a gas, certainly not a solid and not quite liquid... but close). All is not lost though the ground was still frozen in many places and the cold WILL return. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Well done and thanks to all of the mock students who make this assessment experience possible for the candidates.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-2945256822560438791?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/2945256822560438791/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=2945256822560438791" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/2945256822560438791?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/2945256822560438791?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/all-change-again.html" title="All change again..." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1KQK3KVBq1Y/TzQXNTE-8XI/AAAAAAAAHp0/wsFeNZ1Jv5o/s72-c/P1060371.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkQCRX8yfSp7ImA9WhRbF04.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-8457320272774350371</id><published>2012-02-08T19:32:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-08T19:46:04.195Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-08T19:46:04.195Z</app:edited><title>A familiar feeling...</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0mS_pHyPpnY/TzLPxpvxaaI/AAAAAAAAHo8/-pkzzfLdWW8/s1600/P1060340.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0mS_pHyPpnY/TzLPxpvxaaI/AAAAAAAAHo8/-pkzzfLdWW8/s320/P1060340.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706852129758603682" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Walking in&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Mi-zXIT5HY/TzLPxSgYQqI/AAAAAAAAHos/SS7gcF8jZ6Y/s1600/P1060348.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Mi-zXIT5HY/TzLPxSgYQqI/AAAAAAAAHos/SS7gcF8jZ6Y/s320/P1060348.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706852123520025250" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Heading up in a breeze&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YO1XuBEvjog/TzLPw__aZOI/AAAAAAAAHog/dbqZ80ppFoY/s1600/P1060350.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YO1XuBEvjog/TzLPw__aZOI/AAAAAAAAHog/dbqZ80ppFoY/s320/P1060350.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706852118549914850" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Bealy building through the spindrift&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQY3ra_jqm4/TzLPwEKyizI/AAAAAAAAHoU/1ImuK1v7lus/s1600/P1060359.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQY3ra_jqm4/TzLPwEKyizI/AAAAAAAAHoU/1ImuK1v7lus/s320/P1060359.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706852102491507506" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;It looks black but there is a little firm snow and a good bit of verglas&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9oyjJjE94Es/TzLPv_v1fdI/AAAAAAAAHoI/XRVJz_4XuDE/s1600/P1060364.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9oyjJjE94Es/TzLPv_v1fdI/AAAAAAAAHoI/XRVJz_4XuDE/s320/P1060364.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706852101304712658" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Waiting to descend&lt;/div&gt;At least a familiar feeling this year... that of being blown sideways by a strong wind!&lt;div&gt;Today was the first of 2 teaching days for our MIC Candidates on assessment at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt;. Each one was presented with 2 &lt;a href="http://glenmorelodge.org.uk/free-training.asp"&gt;mock students&lt;/a&gt; (thanks to our volunteers) and had to make an assessment of their winter climbing ability and needs. Then all they had to do was to construct a suitable day for them given the conditions.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Walking in to Coire an t Sneachda was a wee bit of a mission with the path polished to a high glaze of ice and the wind doing its best to return you to the car park. Eventually 3 of the teams made it to the area below Jacob's Ladder having passed a number of climbers who had sacked it. All 3 of these candidates chose lines to the right of Jacob's and climbed a couple of pitches, before arranging abseils (no-one fancied facing what might be waiting for us on the plateau given the exfoliation we were getting from the gales and spindrift where we were). I joined the assessors soloing around on turf, thin ice and rock slabs to observe their approach to teaching winter climbing.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-8457320272774350371?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/8457320272774350371/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=8457320272774350371" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/8457320272774350371?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/8457320272774350371?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/familiar-feeling.html" title="A familiar feeling..." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0mS_pHyPpnY/TzLPxpvxaaI/AAAAAAAAHo8/-pkzzfLdWW8/s72-c/P1060340.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;Ak8DR3wyeCp7ImA9WhRbFkg.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-9060388622177668034</id><published>2012-02-07T23:06:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-07T23:54:36.290Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-07T23:54:36.290Z</app:edited><title>A trip back west</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qlJLzPevHrE/TzGwNGSq-4I/AAAAAAAAHn4/SFe8OsSogZ4/s1600/P1060278.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qlJLzPevHrE/TzGwNGSq-4I/AAAAAAAAHn4/SFe8OsSogZ4/s320/P1060278.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706535941928844162" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Derek at the top of Pitch 1 No.2 Gully Buttress (why did we rope up?)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IfNeSViMOSc/TzGwMQUjsMI/AAAAAAAAHns/3uGh8KdVHNs/s1600/P1060281.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IfNeSViMOSc/TzGwMQUjsMI/AAAAAAAAHns/3uGh8KdVHNs/s320/P1060281.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706535927441240258" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Start of Pitch 2- don't look at the belay :-(&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dqc4MIqdCGQ/TzGwMBPwO_I/AAAAAAAAHng/YV_kIyR3xbE/s1600/P1060288.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dqc4MIqdCGQ/TzGwMBPwO_I/AAAAAAAAHng/YV_kIyR3xbE/s320/P1060288.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706535923394558962" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Pitch 2 was just a snowfield so Derek gets pitch 3 too&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-jXyiMPiew/TzGwKom6qJI/AAAAAAAAHnY/HloRKWhQbPk/s1600/P1060318.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-jXyiMPiew/TzGwKom6qJI/AAAAAAAAHnY/HloRKWhQbPk/s320/P1060318.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706535899600955538" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Topping out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DRoc2DYPVD0/TzGwKEM46hI/AAAAAAAAHnI/QzFruGyhdqo/s1600/P1060324.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DRoc2DYPVD0/TzGwKEM46hI/AAAAAAAAHnI/QzFruGyhdqo/s320/P1060324.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706535889828112914" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Lovely day... again... I could get used to this!&lt;/div&gt;Day 2 of the MIC Assessment based at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; that I am observing and it was personal climbing. After an early start we arrived at a busy Ben Nevis and the candidates paired up each with an assessor and picked a route at Grade III minimum. After catching the chat and the setup Derek and I backed off to let them go and do their thing. To kill some time we went to do No.2 Gully Buttress and for some reason we took a rack and ropes.... the belays were mostly poor and the gear buried- but the climbing was good. We should have just soloed it and gone and done another route. &lt;div&gt;As it was we wanted to make sure we weren't going to hold the candidates up so we scratched and dug holes and frowned at screws in snow ice and nuts hammered into icey flared cracks... and then there was the spindrift on Derek's pitch. Its ok, he didn't need to see his feet anyway.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;There was a great deal of snow being deposited onto Northerly aspects throughout the day and many routes were attracting spindrift. This was collecting in isolated deposits and one of these avalanched at about 2 pm (a crown wall in No.3 Gully near the base of winter chimney that stretched halfway across the gully and was visible from the Ciste Lochan which the debris stopped only a couple of metres short of- no-one involved.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;People were climbing Green, Comb, White Line, Tower Ridge, Central Left and Right, Wendigo and the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder. The area around the Upper Cascade and Comb Gully Buttress were both holding a lot of ice too.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We dropped down No. 4 Gully and arrived for a late dinner back at the &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Lodge&lt;/a&gt; before the candidates were briefed on their students for tomorrow.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-9060388622177668034?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/9060388622177668034/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=9060388622177668034" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/9060388622177668034?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/9060388622177668034?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/trip-back-west.html" title="A trip back west" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qlJLzPevHrE/TzGwNGSq-4I/AAAAAAAAHn4/SFe8OsSogZ4/s72-c/P1060278.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUIBQ3Y6fCp7ImA9WhRbFUo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-5252169071096751771</id><published>2012-02-06T23:47:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-07T00:12:32.814Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-07T00:12:32.814Z</app:edited><title>MIC Assessment</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9fFImGP0mu4/TzBsUntDJuI/AAAAAAAAHm8/6NLlxtk7gQA/s1600/P1060175.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9fFImGP0mu4/TzBsUntDJuI/AAAAAAAAHm8/6NLlxtk7gQA/s320/P1060175.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706179829389534946" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0kbj9Hy4fg/TzBrCfyVyvI/AAAAAAAAHmo/qTklthD2C-E/s1600/P1060215.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0kbj9Hy4fg/TzBrCfyVyvI/AAAAAAAAHmo/qTklthD2C-E/s320/P1060215.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706178418514971378" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uRriwoqFPeM/TzBrA9wlh5I/AAAAAAAAHmg/DUoAsGxBB3s/s1600/P1060224.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uRriwoqFPeM/TzBrA9wlh5I/AAAAAAAAHmg/DUoAsGxBB3s/s320/P1060224.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706178392200939410" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F9FSbF3x9c8/TzBrAf-cf6I/AAAAAAAAHmY/vy7eh6WkA9s/s1600/P1060236.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F9FSbF3x9c8/TzBrAf-cf6I/AAAAAAAAHmY/vy7eh6WkA9s/s320/P1060236.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706178384206004130" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ts3gcQlqCzQ/TzBq_7o4ZVI/AAAAAAAAHmI/MQ1SBBSp3Jk/s320/P1060246.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706178374451881298" /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3XMUVrfch0A/TzBq_pfnfAI/AAAAAAAAHl8/3APVA15Dvh4/s1600/P1060257.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3XMUVrfch0A/TzBq_pfnfAI/AAAAAAAAHl8/3APVA15Dvh4/s320/P1060257.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706178369581186050" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Well this week I'm working again at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt;. I'm observing and MIC Assessment course as part of the training towards working on these courses in the future. Its fascinating getting inside the heads of the guys assessing people for the highest UK based Awarf in mountaineering and seeing the care and judgement that goes into the process. &lt;div&gt;I'm trying to keep the photography to a minimum as the candidates have quite enough self induced stress without me sticking a camera in their faces but today was a stunner. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We went to the climbing crag of the moment Creagan na Cho but we went with a mountaineering journey (our definition I/II ground with harnesses, ropes and 1 axe) In mind. Corker of a day it was too. We did observe a deal of slab around sitting on a nasty faceted layer giving very easy shears. "Ca canny loons" (go carefully guys) as my grandad used to say.   &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-5252169071096751771?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/5252169071096751771/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=5252169071096751771" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/5252169071096751771?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/5252169071096751771?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/mic-assessment.html" title="MIC Assessment" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9fFImGP0mu4/TzBsUntDJuI/AAAAAAAAHm8/6NLlxtk7gQA/s72-c/P1060175.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;A0QHQHg4fSp7ImA9WhRbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-1096193189139881503</id><published>2012-02-04T19:43:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-04T21:02:11.635Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-04T21:02:11.635Z</app:edited><title>...and by contrast...</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XfbD3m9kXXI/Ty2Ye6alcWI/AAAAAAAAHl0/692wie6RqhQ/s1600/P1060160.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XfbD3m9kXXI/Ty2Ye6alcWI/AAAAAAAAHl0/692wie6RqhQ/s320/P1060160.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705383959792546146" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Don't go ice!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KHyQ-a_J2ns/Ty2YeROeA1I/AAAAAAAAHlg/xXO-sTZvasI/s1600/P1060163.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 231px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KHyQ-a_J2ns/Ty2YeROeA1I/AAAAAAAAHlg/xXO-sTZvasI/s320/P1060163.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705383948735873874" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Walking in&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qXjfP-LfGlQ/Ty2YeRFzG_I/AAAAAAAAHlU/j_PTfLChGo0/s1600/P1060164.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qXjfP-LfGlQ/Ty2YeRFzG_I/AAAAAAAAHlU/j_PTfLChGo0/s320/P1060164.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705383948699507698" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Digging in&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vpBW0o61g8c/Ty2YeL2URGI/AAAAAAAAHlM/kmjx3aLEKHA/s1600/P1060169.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vpBW0o61g8c/Ty2YeL2URGI/AAAAAAAAHlM/kmjx3aLEKHA/s320/P1060169.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705383947292394594" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Transceivers&lt;/div&gt;Ok...its was vile today. Wind, rain, sleet and classic west coast ming. &lt;div&gt;Today I was working with &lt;a href="http://www.mcofs.org.uk/staff.asp"&gt;Heather&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href="http://www.digilbert.co.uk/"&gt;Di&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href="http://www.mcofs.org.uk/home.asp"&gt;Mountaineering Council of Scotland&lt;/a&gt; Avalanche Awareness Day.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Based at &lt;a href="http://www.glencoemountain.com/"&gt;Glencoe Mountain&lt;/a&gt; (thanks to the extremely helpful staff there for making us feel so welcome) we began with a presentation to set the scene. Our students ranged from occasional hillwalkers to a climber avalanched last season as he approached Stirling Bomber in Coire an t Sneachda and all wanted a framework to approach keeping themselves safe from this hazard in winter.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We stressed the importance of gathering information on: weather, the snowpack and the terrain expected. A process begun well before the day. Then observing the weather forecast and the &lt;a href="http://www.sais.gov.uk/index.asp"&gt;SAIS&lt;/a&gt; Forecast before deciding on the proposed route for the expected conditions. Next, on the hill, they would be constantly looking for clues that would confirm that forecast or make them reassess conditions- all still based on these same 3 areas; weather, snowpack and terrain. This is backed up with an  awareness of common pitfalls; heueristic traps such as assuming that because its normally ok here that it always will be, assuming that because someone else got away with it you will, or unwillingness to adopt a flexible approach and diverge from the original plan.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Unfortunately the chairlift was out of action owing to the high winds so it was a walk up the path for us into the ski area- past some rapidly thawing frozen waterfalls. Here our 3 teams all did some practical work. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;On the walk in we discussed observations we could make and how they fitted in with our expectations. Then we looked at a snow profile to understand a little bit more about the structure of the snowpack. We compared the utility and information given to us by a walking rutshblock, a quick pit with a hand shear test and simple trenching. I was keen to stress that such tests are limited to providing us with (often subjective) information at the immediate location where they are carried out and are only a small part of a larger dynamic process of information gathering. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Rather wet by now we moved to join the other teams, observing some possible safe or not so safe routes on the mountain given the conditions. The others were at the Transceiver park sponsored by &lt;a href="http://www.backcountryaccess.com/"&gt;BCA&lt;/a&gt; using the transceivers, probes and shovels kindly provided by them for the course. Then it was a wet walk down avoiding slipping on the ice hidden in the grass and heather.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Well done the team for staying focussed throughout a pretty vile day. The importance of this training was stressed to us today as we learnt of an injury to someone avalanched out of Boomerang Gully today- best wishes to them for a speedy recovery.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36203256?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-1096193189139881503?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/1096193189139881503/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=1096193189139881503" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/1096193189139881503?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/1096193189139881503?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/and-by-contrast.html" title="...and by contrast..." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XfbD3m9kXXI/Ty2Ye6alcWI/AAAAAAAAHl0/692wie6RqhQ/s72-c/P1060160.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;A0EBSHsyeip7ImA9WhRbE00.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-2227447502475085755</id><published>2012-02-03T22:53:00.000Z</published><updated>2012-02-03T22:54:19.592Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-03T22:54:19.592Z</app:edited><title>MIC Training last week- the video</title><content type="html">&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36166853?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-2227447502475085755?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/2227447502475085755/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=2227447502475085755" title="1 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/2227447502475085755?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/2227447502475085755?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/mic-training-last-week-video.html" title="MIC Training last week- the video" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkEAR386eyp7ImA9WhRbE0w.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-6601398088222410618</id><published>2012-02-03T22:13:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-03T23:10:46.113Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-03T23:10:46.113Z</app:edited><title>Last day of one course and more sun</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jG0zlC3_FCQ/TyxdfrVs8VI/AAAAAAAAHlA/75etGmsTmqE/s1600/P1060131.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jG0zlC3_FCQ/TyxdfrVs8VI/AAAAAAAAHlA/75etGmsTmqE/s320/P1060131.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705037626762654034" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Setting off to demo.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPC8TOv8mtY/TyxdfQLmKhI/AAAAAAAAHk0/ZBl2azEKXFo/s1600/P1060133.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPC8TOv8mtY/TyxdfQLmKhI/AAAAAAAAHk0/ZBl2azEKXFo/s320/P1060133.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705037619472509458" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Aaargh... bright light!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_yNTJZJImg/TyxdexU45cI/AAAAAAAAHko/Vol2qlLHpkA/s1600/P1060140.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_yNTJZJImg/TyxdexU45cI/AAAAAAAAHko/Vol2qlLHpkA/s320/P1060140.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705037611189986754" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;George hard at work supervising&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SDAjXtQPtXM/Tyxddw49K2I/AAAAAAAAHkc/gsreZDP3tyI/s1600/P1060156.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SDAjXtQPtXM/Tyxddw49K2I/AAAAAAAAHkc/gsreZDP3tyI/s320/P1060156.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705037593892957026" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;View across to Central Gully&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7EcPlZGKo8c/Tyxddn2oPDI/AAAAAAAAHkQ/ql2eU3_YE6s/s1600/P1060158.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7EcPlZGKo8c/Tyxddn2oPDI/AAAAAAAAHkQ/ql2eU3_YE6s/s1600/P1060158.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 226px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7EcPlZGKo8c/Tyxddn2oPDI/AAAAAAAAHkQ/ql2eU3_YE6s/s320/P1060158.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705037591467277362" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;MIC Trainee Course&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Last day of the MIC Training at &lt;a href="http://glenmorelodge.org.uk/index.asp"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; today and it was another stunner. Today the focus was on teaching winter climbing and the progressions possible and how to choose from them. We made the most of our time by heading for the Twin Ribs after an initial discussion on the skills sets that go into making a winter climber. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;On the Twin Ribs we worked on the possible uses of different ropework systems and methods of teaching lead climbing in winter. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;It was calm and sunny where we were but once the sun dipped behind the Fiacaill it got cold very quickly. Late in the afternoon we headed back to the &lt;a href="http://glenmorelodge.org.uk/index.asp"&gt;Lodge&lt;/a&gt; to review the day and discuss action plans with the future MICs.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Back in the west tonight... looks like it will be a wild one tomorrow!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;On another note a friend of a friend dropped a BD Express screw below Molar Canal on Aonach Mor today. If anyone wants to make him happy let me know if you find it.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-6601398088222410618?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/6601398088222410618/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=6601398088222410618" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6601398088222410618?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6601398088222410618?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/last-day-of-one-course-and-more-sun.html" title="Last day of one course and more sun" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jG0zlC3_FCQ/TyxdfrVs8VI/AAAAAAAAHlA/75etGmsTmqE/s72-c/P1060131.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D0MNQHg9fCp7ImA9WhRbEkw.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-3890856143929909105</id><published>2012-02-02T19:46:00.004Z</published><updated>2012-02-02T20:44:51.664Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-02T20:44:51.664Z</app:edited><title>Climbing!</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IczdHaqWORc/TyrxWeSZWpI/AAAAAAAAHkA/TldhHtG70AI/s1600/P1060093.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IczdHaqWORc/TyrxWeSZWpI/AAAAAAAAHkA/TldhHtG70AI/s320/P1060093.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704637246407793298" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Lemmings&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ocPARmI9VN4/TyrxWIJ1xBI/AAAAAAAAHj4/nnXla15uJa4/s1600/P1060100.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ocPARmI9VN4/TyrxWIJ1xBI/AAAAAAAAHj4/nnXla15uJa4/s1600/P1060100.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ocPARmI9VN4/TyrxWIJ1xBI/AAAAAAAAHj4/nnXla15uJa4/s320/P1060100.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704637240466326546" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Looking across The Slant&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gR-QmPyEW-4/TyrxViOTxqI/AAAAAAAAHjs/7F0COcRg91g/s1600/P1060114.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gR-QmPyEW-4/TyrxViOTxqI/AAAAAAAAHjs/7F0COcRg91g/s1600/P1060114.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gR-QmPyEW-4/TyrxViOTxqI/AAAAAAAAHjs/7F0COcRg91g/s320/P1060114.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704637230284523170" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;A rocky crux&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D_0EQqj25Cw/TyrxVe19o7I/AAAAAAAAHjc/8JRd3Skf7uk/s1600/P1060118.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D_0EQqj25Cw/TyrxVe19o7I/AAAAAAAAHjc/8JRd3Skf7uk/s1600/P1060118.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D_0EQqj25Cw/TyrxVe19o7I/AAAAAAAAHjc/8JRd3Skf7uk/s320/P1060118.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704637229377102770" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Topping out in the sun&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wgZ74E6st0w/TyrxVBb3IBI/AAAAAAAAHjU/uGha65ORC28/s1600/P1060121.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wgZ74E6st0w/TyrxVBb3IBI/AAAAAAAAHjU/uGha65ORC28/s320/P1060121.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704637221482995730" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Down time&lt;/div&gt;At last a bit of climbing... and what a day for it!&lt;div&gt;Today the MIC Training course at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; was out to look at personal climbing skills and guiding climbers using parallel rope technique. Phil took a team onto the arete to the left of the Runnel whilst Derek and I took our parties to the Mess of Pottage. There was a pair ahead of us established on the start of The Slant so I fell in behind to see where they went whilst Derek opted to make use of the good ground to the right of Jacob's ladder.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;As we were starting around the corner came 2 ropes of 3 people wandering up the gully with variable (but large) amounts of slack rope between them and an absence of gear. It's as if people feel that just being tied to someone else in a steep snowy gully confers some kind of safety to them rather than putting them all at an increased risk. After our experiments on gentler snow slopes than this yesterday (and with much more effective approaches to rope handling) our MIC Trainees were pretty aghast at this group.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Anyway... we made sure that we were all well out of the way in case a big ball of rope and people came down the Gully and carried on. The team on The Slant stayed on it which meant that we could get Hidden Chimney to ourselves. Its a bit boney (i.e. lots of rock showing through) but with some good firm snow on the ledges and chockstones. a few of the cracks were well iced up but Frances and Ash found plenty of good gear as they took turns to lead us up the route in 4 pitches. Topping out onto the plateau with very little wind (it was -9 C on the top today) was a real pleasure and with a little time in hand we opted to abseil down the now empty Jacob's Ladder (they survived) and make our way back to the &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Lodge&lt;/a&gt; to review the day.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-3890856143929909105?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/3890856143929909105/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=3890856143929909105" title="1 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3890856143929909105?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3890856143929909105?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/climbing.html" title="Climbing!" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IczdHaqWORc/TyrxWeSZWpI/AAAAAAAAHkA/TldhHtG70AI/s72-c/P1060093.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;AkUDQ3s7fSp7ImA9WhRbEU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-1329700722899397813</id><published>2012-02-01T20:08:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-02-01T20:31:12.505Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-02-01T20:31:12.505Z</app:edited><title>Keeping the team on a short rope</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JCb73fku2lc/TymfSsdV4yI/AAAAAAAAHjI/HHIzMv3h0YU/s1600/P1060069.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JCb73fku2lc/TymfSsdV4yI/AAAAAAAAHjI/HHIzMv3h0YU/s320/P1060069.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704265546562134818" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Coire and Lochain today&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jHAmQuVA8o/TymfR-9A0QI/AAAAAAAAHjA/hCFDo7Pxyf8/s1600/P1060070.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--jHAmQuVA8o/TymfR-9A0QI/AAAAAAAAHjA/hCFDo7Pxyf8/s320/P1060070.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704265534346940674" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Derek in flow on "flow"&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q26V0xWnSxE/TymfRpZL5EI/AAAAAAAAHis/Htoch4vv19Y/s1600/P1060075.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q26V0xWnSxE/TymfRpZL5EI/AAAAAAAAHis/Htoch4vv19Y/s320/P1060075.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704265528559526978" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Going up&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2cL3aNbBCuU/TymfRVt_8bI/AAAAAAAAHik/Fii1Pnbcx9g/s1600/P1060076.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2cL3aNbBCuU/TymfRVt_8bI/AAAAAAAAHik/Fii1Pnbcx9g/s320/P1060076.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704265523278115250" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Getting steeper&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXZ8u0Spe7A/TymfROyEisI/AAAAAAAAHiY/MeZYrAvuOU4/s1600/P1060086.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXZ8u0Spe7A/TymfROyEisI/AAAAAAAAHiY/MeZYrAvuOU4/s320/P1060086.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704265521416145602" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Going down&lt;/div&gt;We headed to Coire an Lochain today to look at short roping in winter with the MIC trainees. The Coire is quite boney looking (lots of rock showing through whilst at the same time the flat bits on the buttresses are covered in unconsolidated snow).&lt;div&gt;We began by getting them in the swing of things with a little one to one short roping on easy but quite firm slopes following on from a session I did at the &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Lodge&lt;/a&gt; last night. From here we added a second person to each team and looked at changing direction and moving up and down and all around in an appropriate fashion. Then with care we chose a section of slope with a safer runout and softer snow to 'test' our short roping to destruction. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Its a various serious undertaking to tie yourself to 2 other people on a steepish slope and deliberately slip to show them how difficult it can be to hold someone else. Even on quite moderate slopes with firm snow it was quite easy to send all of us into a slide (don't try this at home folks).&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;We looked at some quite specific use of snow anchors and then took the teams on a journey to apply all they had learnt both in ascent and descent. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Its worth pointing out that what you see here is short roping in a UK winter context. What we were looking at is different from the skills of moving together in an Alpine environment and, as the team discovered today, is a much misunderstood and judgement based activity. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Its not just about tying yourself to someone(s) else, either with or without coils in your hand, and romping up a snowy gully (and this approach has resulted in a number of serious accidents over recent years). It is about applying a wide range of tools appropriately to keep people safe and move them efficiently on the mountain. Our MIC Trainees have a great deal of experience of summer shortroping in the UK and climbing and mountaineering (some at very high grades) at home and abroad. They all finished the day with a strong grasp of how much they have to go out and learn. So I'd urge people to take care with trying to apply their understanding of these techniques without guidance and training from an appropriate person.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Sunshine and bitter cold all day today. Climbing tomorrow! :-)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-1329700722899397813?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/1329700722899397813/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=1329700722899397813" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/1329700722899397813?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/1329700722899397813?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/02/keeping-team-on-short-rope.html" title="Keeping the team on a short rope" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JCb73fku2lc/TymfSsdV4yI/AAAAAAAAHjI/HHIzMv3h0YU/s72-c/P1060069.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUADQHg9fSp7ImA9WhRbEEk.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-6458314053814947605</id><published>2012-01-31T21:27:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-01-31T22:09:31.665Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-01-31T22:09:31.665Z</app:edited><title>A little ice with that?</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBf1QefsOX0/Tyhj0hqrWaI/AAAAAAAAHiM/y39tEOXJkPA/s1600/P1060038.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBf1QefsOX0/Tyhj0hqrWaI/AAAAAAAAHiM/y39tEOXJkPA/s320/P1060038.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703918682106452386" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Wind transporting snow&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LcWrrjH0rw/Tyhj0MgWvbI/AAAAAAAAHiA/84vvtPtGPgQ/s1600/P1060045.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LcWrrjH0rw/Tyhj0MgWvbI/AAAAAAAAHiA/84vvtPtGPgQ/s320/P1060045.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703918676426014130" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;On the ice&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w21E3bY5eqg/TyhjzuIduLI/AAAAAAAAHh0/mGNPm7FJmqk/s1600/P1060054.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w21E3bY5eqg/TyhjzuIduLI/AAAAAAAAHh0/mGNPm7FJmqk/s320/P1060054.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703918668272744626" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;A white board in the Coire&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tP2IOlSLrwM/Tyhjze9sP4I/AAAAAAAAHho/JuRa6ryiqlM/s1600/P1060062.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tP2IOlSLrwM/Tyhjze9sP4I/AAAAAAAAHho/JuRa6ryiqlM/s320/P1060062.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703918664201027458" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Day 2 of the MIC Training at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; and today was all about the ice. Plan A was to head over to the Feith Buidhe but when the bus was rocking on it's springs in the Cas car park we reassessed the situation and headed into Coire an t Sneachda in search of ice.&lt;div&gt;After beating up against the wind we crept round the corner into the area near the flat ice and began by looking at improving the students ability to coach the use of crampons in a walking context. We worked through progressions on easy snow, firmer ice and turfy rocky ground before heading up to some ice bulges above the flat ice. Here we put a bottom rope up and used a short ice fall for the team to observe and give feedbaack on each others' movement. We finished with a session on placing screws on the lead and use of abalakovs (see George's &lt;a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4315"&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;A great deal of wind blown snow and plenty of people making good decisions avoiding gully lines with firm windslab building on the exits. There is a mitre high crown wall high in Coire Cas but &lt;a href="http://www.sotrg.co.uk/"&gt;Bill&lt;/a&gt; had a good day on the well scoured &lt;a href="http://www.scottishwinter.com/?tag=creagan-cha-no"&gt;Creagan Cha No&lt;/a&gt; after a bit of a battle against the wind to get there.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;lots of good articles on the BMC winter meet at the Lodge on UKC and the BMC website. Some superb climbers sending in the last week.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;And &lt;a href="http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/01/new-products-unveiled-at-ispo/"&gt;DMMs new range&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href="http://dmmclimbing.com/documents/NewProducts2012LowRes.pdf"&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; looks very interesting... although the Scottish Trad winter climber in me wishes there was a spike on the base of the Switch.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-6458314053814947605?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/6458314053814947605/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=6458314053814947605" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6458314053814947605?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/6458314053814947605?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/01/little-ice-with-that.html" title="A little ice with that?" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBf1QefsOX0/Tyhj0hqrWaI/AAAAAAAAHiM/y39tEOXJkPA/s72-c/P1060038.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEIMRnc7fCp7ImA9WhRUGUg.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-3590060559948808649</id><published>2012-01-30T20:17:00.003Z</published><updated>2012-01-30T20:49:47.904Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-01-30T20:49:47.904Z</app:edited><title>Look well to each step...</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nur2EBf__Us/TycBWm6o6nI/AAAAAAAAHhc/DYicSAi7yn4/s1600/P1060028.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nur2EBf__Us/TycBWm6o6nI/AAAAAAAAHhc/DYicSAi7yn4/s320/P1060028.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703528941003270770" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Said Whymper. It was good advice as I almost found out today. &lt;div&gt;It's a busy week at &lt;a href="http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/"&gt;Glenmore Lodge&lt;/a&gt; with Winter MLs, Intro. and Intermediate Ski Mountaineering, Winter Skills, Intro. Winter Climbing and Lead Climbing Courses all on the go. I'm working on an MIC Training course and the first day was spent refreshing and improving how we coach core winter skills and then moving on to how we introduce snow belays. I haven't cut many steps this year and its a skill I still find useful and important (people drop/break/forget crampons and even with them on a good step can give a great deal of confidence to someone who is tired, nervous or has a slight injury) so I was taking advantage of the practise time with those on the course on a steep slope. And then I looked up at the wrong moment.... and I was off. A poor step and not getting my foot quite right in it and I'm slipping and already thinking "self belay!!" And its not working... too hard... and I'm now starting to slide and i'm trying to go on autopilot: feet up, knees wide, bum up, shoulders rolled forwards, weight over the axe, elbows... look away from the adze.... don't apply too much pressure too soon and... it works.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I spend a lot of time talking about how much or how little time I spend teaching self arrest. If I have x hours to teach people to avoid becoming a casualty by falling whilst walking in winter I spend the vast bulk of that time focussing on the skill they should be able to use most effectively and practise lots.... walking. I'll spend some of the remaining time looking at preventing that initial slip becoming a slide.... a realistic self belay. I'll spend the least amount of time looking at the most complex skill that also takes the most time to practise and is therefore practised the least and is least (IMHO) likely to be effectively replicated in an emergency... self arrest. However I never ignore it. It looks like years of teaching it and therefore getting regular practise each winter season paid off today.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;But I'd still rather i'd looked well to the step....&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Quite apart from my incompetence there were some interesting things going on in the snow pack today (see the &lt;a href="http://www.sais.gov.uk/profile_search.asp?area_id=2&amp;amp;d_sdte=30&amp;amp;m_sdte=1&amp;amp;y_sdte=2012&amp;amp;d_edte=31&amp;amp;m_edte=1&amp;amp;y_edte=2012#"&gt;SAIS site&lt;/a&gt; and take a look at the temperature gradient in the snow profile). I heard 2 stories of people getting hit by debris from avalanches released most likely by others above them. You can see from the profile that there is some hard firm snow out there so being hit by that might not be as trivial as you might think. Stay aware and make good decisions....&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-3590060559948808649?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/3590060559948808649/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=3590060559948808649" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3590060559948808649?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/3590060559948808649?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/01/look-well-to-each-step.html" title="Look well to each step..." /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nur2EBf__Us/TycBWm6o6nI/AAAAAAAAHhc/DYicSAi7yn4/s72-c/P1060028.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CUMNQ304eyp7ImA9WhRUGEo.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-397947701665147271</id><published>2012-01-29T20:08:00.005Z</published><updated>2012-01-29T21:44:52.333Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-01-29T21:44:52.333Z</app:edited><title>Wind around the Nid</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVlVPb2tf28/TyWrmpGfmBI/AAAAAAAAHhU/WkJAnmk2gqA/s1600/P1060013.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVlVPb2tf28/TyWrmpGfmBI/AAAAAAAAHhU/WkJAnmk2gqA/s320/P1060013.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703153183491069970" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Investigating options&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cloxGuGkIMg/TyWrmcEdUGI/AAAAAAAAHhE/PhoiAp1TUVI/s1600/P1060017.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 224px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cloxGuGkIMg/TyWrmcEdUGI/AAAAAAAAHhE/PhoiAp1TUVI/s320/P1060017.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703153179992871010" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;A wee bit blowy&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RgUcuPTEHGo/TyWrmGj0xhI/AAAAAAAAHg4/1f7Pjgzv834/s1600/P1060024.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RgUcuPTEHGo/TyWrmGj0xhI/AAAAAAAAHg4/1f7Pjgzv834/s1600/P1060024.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RgUcuPTEHGo/TyWrmGj0xhI/AAAAAAAAHg4/1f7Pjgzv834/s320/P1060024.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5703153174218851858" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Can we go home now&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Day 2 of the &lt;a href="http://www.ami.org.uk/"&gt;AMI&lt;/a&gt; workshop today and the focus was on shortroping for UK mountaineering conditions. We were back on Aonach Mor and there was a sign at the ticket window warning us that there were high winds due after lunchtime and that the gondola might shut.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;We went to the Nid area and looked at spacing students on the rope and different methods of ascent and descent. We spent a good deal of time discussing how comfortable we were moving people with hand coils on different angles of slope and with different conditions underfoot and transitions from shortroping  into climbing situations. &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;The wind picked as as we had been warmed but we moved up to the top of the Nid Ridge looking at Abalakov/V Threads in some ice on the way. Finally we looked at getting 2 students down past a corniced edge. By now the wind was really quite strong and the snow was blowing straight down along the ridge. We finished our work and beat a retreat back to the top station to find the doors closed. :-( So it was wee walk down the hill for us.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Back East at Glenmore Lodge next week and finally might get a little climbing in!!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Big up to Greg Boswell for sending Don't Die of Ignorance on Ben Nevis today but climb of the season for me so far must be Nick Bullock, Guy Robertson and US visitor Bayard Russell's &lt;a href="http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=2611"&gt;second ascent of Guerdon Grooves&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35846094?title=0&amp;amp;byline=0&amp;amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-397947701665147271?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/397947701665147271/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=397947701665147271" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/397947701665147271?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/397947701665147271?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/01/wind-around-nid.html" title="Wind around the Nid" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVlVPb2tf28/TyWrmpGfmBI/AAAAAAAAHhU/WkJAnmk2gqA/s72-c/P1060013.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEICSX05cSp7ImA9WhRUF0o.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-8132670959867953433</id><published>2012-01-28T18:36:00.002Z</published><updated>2012-01-28T18:49:28.329Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2012-01-28T18:49:28.329Z</app:edited><title>Aonach Mor</title><content type="html">&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WzSjuEOKa0w/TyRDEBTMJ-I/AAAAAAAAHgo/71yXmNcP424/s1600/P1060008.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WzSjuEOKa0w/TyRDEBTMJ-I/AAAAAAAAHgo/71yXmNcP424/s320/P1060008.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5702756764505352162" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-REyIVNBrirU/TyRDEDfZn-I/AAAAAAAAHgg/MwC8g13lvhs/s1600/P1060009.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"&gt;&lt;img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-REyIVNBrirU/TyRDEDfZn-I/AAAAAAAAHgg/MwC8g13lvhs/s320/P1060009.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5702756765093437410" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Today I was running a the first day of an &lt;a href="http://www.ami.org.uk/"&gt;AMI&lt;/a&gt; weekend workshop for MIC Trainees. We went to Aonach Mor and after a brief chat about what people wanted to get out of the weekend took the &lt;a href="http://www.nevisrange.co.uk/"&gt;gondola&lt;/a&gt; up the mountain. We headed around to the west face and looked at issues involved in teaching climbing. We worked on both series and parallel ropework and the transition between the two as well as discussing progressions and 'winterising' student's climbing.&lt;div&gt;Nice calm weather without too much cloud and with the snow cover lasting more than a day or two now it's beginning to feel like winter has arrived properly at last.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7078134383480561737-8132670959867953433?l=alanhalewood.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/feeds/8132670959867953433/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=7078134383480561737&amp;postID=8132670959867953433" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/8132670959867953433?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/7078134383480561737/posts/default/8132670959867953433?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://alanhalewood.blogspot.com/2012/01/aonach-mor.html" title="Aonach Mor" /><author><name>Alan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="31" height="32" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nSKT0e9Ej7w/SYG9g-_oD7I/AAAAAAAACTs/uIH-fQyQXB0/S220/JpegCopy+of+Project1.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WzSjuEOKa0w/TyRDEBTMJ-I/AAAAAAAAHgo/71yXmNcP424/s72-c/P1060008.JPG" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>

