Alison Young's Beauty Bible

On when to apply a face mask...

2009-11-18T11:48:13+00:00

My skin has definitely improved since splashing out on various Elemis, Decleor and Gatineau products... but I am hoping that you can give me some advice regarding what is probably a very daft question. If I use a mask, should I be applying a toner BEFORE or AFTER???

Alison: This is a really good question and one I've never actually had in my 15 years here! You definitely get the star award for best question that a lot of people may think has an obvious answer, but in actual fact most people do this wrong.

A mask must be applied to thoroughly clean skin. So it should be at least cleansed and toned, if not cleansed, toned, exfoliated and toned again as well! If it's a leave-on mask, such as Decleor Hydra Floral or Gatineau Melatogenine that you can leave on through the night, then you can actually go to bed in it.

If you don't want to do this and you'd prefer to continue with your night-time treatments after about 15 minutes of the mask sinking in, then you should wipe off the excess with toner. If there is a lot of mask to remove, such as with a clay mask, you should then take it off with either warm, wet cotton wool or a warm, damp cloth. Then follow with toner and your night time treatments.

On which water-based products to use...

2009-11-11T10:45:43+00:00

I've just been put on oxygen therapy and the doctor has said I'm free to use whatever creams/cosmetics I want as long as they are water based rather than petroleum based. I would be grateful if you could point me in the right direction.

I have dry skin and very dark circles, so any advice as to a moisturiser which is water based and something to cover the dark circles would be very helpful.

Alison: If you can't use petroleum-based products then that includes all mineral oil derivatives as well. The ranges we have that are petroleum oil-free and water-based are Elemis, A'kin, Liz Earle and AD Skin Synergy.

If it's a moisturiser that you're looking for, then try a light formula from A'kin. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream fits into this too and can be used on the eye area as well.

To cover the dark circles, you could try Bare Escentuals Concealer as this is just a pure, 100% natural pigment.

For bumps on the forehead and an oily T-zone...

2009-11-06T12:31:37+00:00

I'm a 25 year-old guy and have an oily T-zone but normal everywhere else. I also have bumps on my forehead. At the moment I'm using Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish - this was working to start with but now I'm not seeing any results. What skincare range would be best for me to start to use?

Alison: Try Elemis Tri-Enzyme skincare range - this sounds perfect for you. This system is specifically for those bumps that develop from a poor conditioned skin. So they should help to buff away the dead skin cells, while leaving you with a smoother finish.

Don't worry if you feel a mild tingle when you first use these products as that is the enzymes working. You'll find it reassuring as it's just a sign that it's actually working. The cool tingle should disappear after a while. I'm a huge fan of the products as they leave my skin looking nice and smooth. I even use the Facial Wash every single day.

On a complete skincare routine for mature skin...

2009-11-02T17:37:53+00:00

I'm 56 and have basically never used anything other than soap and water to clean my face. I do use a night cream but that's all. I have combination skin and just a couple of very fine lines around my eyes. I'm confused as to what would be the best beauty routine for me though.

I don't wear any make up other than mascara and lipstick but do wear a 50+ sun block when I go on holiday as I have a couple of blotches which were due to a lot of sun bathing when I was a teenager. Can you help with a good beauty routine for me please?

Alison: Obviously you've been conscious of SPF factors in recent years which is fantastic. On a daily basis and through the winter you could use Ultrasun SPF 30 Day Cream. This should help to prevent future damage and is great especially for more mature skin. UltraSun also have an SPF50 if you want a higher SPF - and all their range offers all-day protection.

There are an awful lot of ranges to choose from, but when you haven't used anything before it's best not to jump into anything too complicated. Start off with Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish, Superskin Moisturiser and Superskin Concentrate.

This would be best to start you off on, particularly because of your age group. Start off on this simple routine and if you want to go on further and get more results on lines or your eyes, then I can suggest other products and ranges for you. See how you get on, and how you enjoy the Liz Earle products too.

On replacing exfoliating gloves...

2009-10-30T08:30:00+00:00

Could you tell me if exfoliation gloves ever need replacing? I have some I purchased from Liz Earle and find them very good.

Alison: Yes, they will need replacing at some point. You'll just find that the fabric loops, which have the exfoliating properties, will snap at some point.

Basically, if you feel that they are still exfoliating and working really well, then you can carry on using them. Just wash them every now and then (maybe a little scrub a couple of times a month) in something like ABC Skinwash or an antiseptic that you already have at home, like mild Savlon, just to make sure that no bacteria is building up on them over time. Rinse them thoroughly afterwards.

For skin drying out from swimming...

2009-10-27T17:11:27+00:00

I'm a woman of 45 and I go swimming 2/3 times a week. I find that it's really drying out my skin, especially around the eyes, cheeks and mouth area, which in turn is causing more fine wrinkles to form. I've very sensitive and fine skin, but it has always looked youthful until I took up swimming. I presently use the Gatineau Melatogenine range, but this does not seem to be enough.

Is there an intense treatment you can recommend to rehydrate my skin initially and keep it rehydrated and protected in the future, especially when I'm swimming?

Alison: Your skincare routine sounds excellent to me! So keep this routine at home and take a few products to the swimming pool with you, such as the Decleor Angelique Balm or Angelique Oil. Put either of these on before you actually get into the pool and see which works best.

These won't be removed in the pool like an emulsion would, which is why the moisturisers that you're currently using aren't protecting your skin before you go into the swimming pool. So, the Oil or Balm will work well as a pre-swim treatment.

When you get out of the pool, you can also add a couple of drops on the skin underneath your favourite Gatineau products, if you want to. For the perfect combination, put a little bit of the oil on first and then a little bit of the balm on top. Plus, you will need to apply more than you would at home because you want it to act like a barrier.

Don't worry, it shouldn't be that visible!

For covering and helping to clear up breakouts...

2009-10-23T11:10:04+01:00

I'm 25 with PCOS, so as you can imagine my skin never looks healthy and glowing. I always have breakouts on my chin (and can’t remember the last time I didn’t have to use concealer.) I've now started getting breakouts occasionally on my forehead and cheeks. Please can you advise the best beauty regime for me.

Also because I'm 25, should I be thinking of anti ageing products? If possible could you also recommend the best concealer to cover blemishes?

Alison: The best concealer to cover blemishes would be the Amazing Cosmetics Concealer. Apply over a primer, such as Smashbox Photo Finish, if you need it to go on smoothly. Also, the best way to cover spots is to layer. So, you should finish with a powder make-up that you then use all over the face, such as from Laura Geller or Bare Escentuals. This will help it to look more natural without showing the concealer underneath.

The good news is that you have been diagnosed. As you progress through treatment the skin will calm down. In the meantime make sure that you avoid exfoliating - you don't want to make your skin any more active than it already is.

Your skin is being driven to be overactive by a hormonal imbalance. So, don't do a lot of masks or a lot of steaming. If you do want to exfoliate or use a mask, I'd limit it to once a month, or twice maximum. Don't use dermabrasion, go for a gentle exfoliant instead.

On a daily basis, use Australian Body Care Skinwash in the shower as an antibacterial wash. You can still use a cleanser and toner or an all-in-one formula. Use On a Clear Day from Philosophy on more stubborn areas. Origins, newly returned to QVC, have a fantastic spot cream that should be coming back too.

Remember that on the chin area, much as you really don't want to, you should apply moisturiser every single morning and every single night. This should help it to balance out as the more you starve it of moisture or stimulate it, the more it won't balance. So anything light and hydrating would be great.

If you're worried about anti-ageing, use the Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream day and night all over the face and neck.

How to file nails properly...

2009-10-19T21:52:17+01:00

The tips of some of my nails look like this (~) - what do I do please as I would like them to be straight? I wear nail polishes by Leighton Denny and Nails Inc every other day and on others they have just ProStrong. My friends can't believe the transformation in 8 weeks - rhat's how long it's been since I last bit my nails.

Alison: I think the problem here is with how you file your nails. You may be not filing them correctly or using a soft emery board that's not giving a good enough quality file at the end of the nail.

I'd recommend the Nails Inc glass nail file or the Leighton Denny crystal nail file to achieve that smooth, filled-in finish at the end of the nail. Also, make sure your paint your nail colours, as well as your base and top coats and cuticle oil, to the very end of your nails and underneath the tip of the nail to seal it in. This should help to keep them strong and prevent them from snagging.

As your nails are growing up from the nail bed, you may want to add an extra layer of your ProStrong Nail Strengthener to the end of your nails, where it can become more fragile. If this doesn't work, then you could try the ProStrong building formulas to help thicken and seal the end of the nail - such as capsules of ProStrong Nail Thickening Serum once a week smoothed on to the end of the naked nail. You can use these underneath your Leighton Denny nail varnishes.

For dry, sensitive hands with nails breaking constantly...

2009-10-16T15:49:01+01:00

I'm 36 and over the last 12 months my hands are getting very dry and sensitive, especially the fingers. The nails keep breaking and I have hard dry skin around the nail which becomes very sore and hurts. Is there anything that you could recommend?

Alison: Firstly it would be good to try to find out what is causing this. You haven't mentioned what your job is or if your hands are in and out of a lot of chemicals or irritants.

So, I'd recommend you use something really gentle, such as an A'kin Handwash as they don't contain ingredients that a lot of people can be allergic to. Then when your skin becomes irritated as you've described use L'Occitane 100% Shea Butter as this only contains one ingredient. That way we're lowering the amount of potential allergens that are on the skin.

Do bare in mind, however, that this skin irritation could have been triggered off by something. If you are really concerned about it then you must consult your doctor and he may be able to prescribe something for you that you can use alongside your beauty routine.

For chicken pock-like marks on the face and chest area...

2009-10-15T11:11:42+01:00

I'm 37 and use either Decleor or Elemis products. Recently during the sunny weather, I've developed chicken pock-like spots on my face and chest area as well as on my arms, but they seem to be "inverted". Don't know what they are or what to use. Can you help?

Alison: I would like you to check these with the doctor because if you were on holiday, there are some skin infections that can be picked up from the sand, lilos, public baths, towels etc. It shouldn't be anything to worry about but if it is this, then you doctor should be able to sort it out for you very quickly.

In the meantime in your beauty routine, you should keep using the skincare products that you've been happy with. However, I’d add ABC Skinwash and use this daily in the shower on your face and body.