Nowhere is this more obvious than their oil filters and how they have changed, superseded and morphed through the last few years.

The O.E. oil filter you buy for your older model Subaru today looks nothing like the one it came with or was installed for years, but in Subaru’s quest to keep things simple they have decided to not make available the older oil filters, but instead have shrank the size of the filter and dropped the older part numbers from production and inventory.

Pictured below are the last 3 oil filters used by Subaru for the 4 cylinder model.  The black one in the middle was first used on the 2002 WRX turbo models, the reason for this is the Turbo models exhaust system runs very close to the oil filter and it was necessary to shrink the filter down to keep the oil filter from getting to hot and thus increasing the oil and engine temperature.   Here is where things have gone from there, we used to install the black filter on the turbo models, the white filter on everything else except for the H6 and the Loyale.   Then Subaru dropped the white filter from production, but wait a minute any one can see the white filter is bigger!   The oil filter now used by Subaru on all 4 cylinder models is the blue one, which is even a little smaller than the black one and yes still much smaller than the white one that was used on your non Turbo model Subaru for years. I also want to point out the location on the engine for the oil filter on the 4 cylinder Subaru models has not changed since the Legacy came out in 1989.

If you own a Turbo model Subaru and don’t change your oil and filter at least every 4,000 miles you will most likely buy a Turbo or worse an engine, this is the current theme in the 2005 and newer Legacy GT, Forester XT and Outback XT models.

Before there is any argument about synthetic oil and oil analysis, the oil filter used by Subaru is very small and will not last the 7,000 miles your synthetic  oil may last, oil analysis has no way of catching the slow clogging of the oil feed line to the turbo.  Damage from extending the oil changes can happen very gradually over time or can ruin your trip in mere seconds and be very costly.

If you change your oil twice a year versus 3 to 4 times a year you will save roughly $800.00 over a ten year period.  The bad news is you will most likely buy a Turbo and the Turbo will cost over $1200.00, just for the part!  Add to that labor, gaskets and the possibility of the Turbo damaging the Engine just for fun.

If you own a older model Subaru (pre 2005) and the dealer is now installing the blue filter you are now cutting the filtering capacity and oil capacity down from how it was originally designed, and if you exceed the ability of the filter to filter, it doesn’t filter and contaminants in the oil will circulate around in the oil rather than be caught in the filter, this is done as the filter becomes restricted by the bypass to protect the engine from ever being starved for engine oil.

Subaru changed the exhaust lay out of the header pipe in all of their four cylinder models to resemble the Turbo models and now all of the 4 cylinder models have the exhaust system running very close to the oil filter rather than on the turbo models.   So all current production models get the small oil filter as such there is no need for Subaru to keep making available the bigger oil filter even if it would be more beneficial to your 2004 Outback or your 1992 Legacy.

At our shop we use the Blue filters on cars still covered under A Subaru warranty to just keep things simple, and try to explain that the ramifications of going to long with the little blue filter won’t show up until the car is out of Warranty and its all your car.  We install a large oil filter on models that don’t have a turbo or newer exhaust system.  For turbo and 05 and later models we use a filter closer in design to the black filter as the Blue filter leaves a lot to be desired and anyone (minus the engineer who designed it) when holding the blue and black filters in their hands side by side will agree the quality of the filter is just not the same as it used to be.

The good news is Subaru did lower the price of the blue filter a little.

When I see things like this I will always try to find a solution to deliver more value than just going along with a corporations desire to cut costs.  While I will also never claim to be as clever as the engineers, I will also never lose the argument that reducing oil capacity and filtering capacity is a bad idea.  I kind of seriously doubt accounting ever consulted the engineers anyways.

Thanks for reading

Justin

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

Things to look at on your Subaru now that the leaves are starting to turn color are as follows.

The engine oil level and condition should be inspected, if it has been longer than a few months since it has been changed now is the time.

Engine coolant should be inspected for level, proper freeze protection and for any signs of contamination.

The wiper blades should be checked for streaking, tears and cracks.  Windshield washer fluid should be checked for level and freeze protection as well.

Tires should be checked for the proper pressure, wear, punctures (screws and nails) and for weather checking this is also a good time to consider rotating and balancing the tires as well.

All of the lights should be checked for proper function and the head light lenses inspected for any signs of dulling or pitting as this can be corrected and greatly improve night time visibility.

If the Subaru is due for any maintenance such as the transmission fluid or differential fluids being serviced now is the time, as starting out the cold part of the year with fresh fluids will go a long way in protecting the devices the fluids are intended to lubricate.

The coolant hoses and accessory drive belts should be inspected and replaced if the hoses feel soft or crunchy, or if the belts are cracked or frayed.

This is a good time to inspect the spare tire, vehicle jack and lug wrench, a flat spare tire really won’t do you much good.

The battery should be serviced and tested; the charging and starting systems looked at as well including the battery cables.

These are just a few examples of ways to get your Subaru ready for fall and winter; a little preventative maintenance can go a long way towards a trouble free Fall and Winter driving season.

Thanks for reading

Justin

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

Ken will be there, camping out, taking pictures and handing out goodies here and there.

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

If you haven’t already read the post your Subaru check engine light explained I would encourage you to, as I am only going to try and cover things not already talked about or will be expanding on the previous article.

I have received a lot of comments about the previous post and as I answer Question under Subaru Repair on all experts everyday as well as talking to our local customers.  I have a good feel for what is going through the minds of many Subaru owners wherever they may live. 

The first thing I really want to stress here is that a good thorough analysis of a codes set in regards to a check engine light is always better than plugging in a code reader at a parts house. You can go to the doctor and have your blood pressure checked and they can inform you it’s high, here are some pills or you can have further tests done to determine the cause of the condition and any symptoms.   Knowing the code set in the ECM’s (Engine Control Module) memory is like knowing you have a fever, when why is the answer that is needed.  The choice is really yours to make and a cheap or free check engine light scan does not necessarily equal value.  There is the old saying you get what you pay for.  

Next there are hundreds of possible codes, thousands of possibilities and only one light, can you imagine an airplane having one light for all of its many engine management systems?  There should be a check engine light pertaining to the engine, its sensors and control devices necessary for proper engine function and another light for Emissions control devices and the systems that monitor those devices.  But that is not the system we have nor does it appear that this is going to change anytime soon.

It is far more complicated than most understand, any many cars go without ever being properly diagnosed and repaired.  The biggest area of confusion is that some believe the light comes on at a preset interval, but the reality is there is no check engine light on your 1996 and newer Subaru that comes on at a predetermined mileage or time frame. The second is that some times the light will go on and off for months as a result of programming, monitors, drive cycle events, temperature and the nature of electricity.  Most of the time the car will seem to run ok and that is a result of what is called adaptive strategy, this is the ability of the ECM to overcome faulty sensors, intake leaks and even some misfires.   

I would say that less than 35% of the industry actually understands how an OBDII system actually works and I guarantee you that not one person behind a parts counter with a code reader understands what a catalyst monitor is and what are the parameters of the monitoring system.  So why should they give any advice at all in regards to a check engine light, is there any value in there opinion?   In the portion of states that have a vehicle emissions programs the Technicians that are licensed by the state to diagnose and repair emission related problems are a leg up on Technicians that are not required to maintain there license and thus their education.

The Check Engine light is more about the Emissions systems on the car then it is the actual engine itself.  If the Technician working on the car is not an Authorized Emissions Specialist he or she may not have received the proper training or is defiantly not going to be as up to date as a Technician that is staying current.  I often find that when I talk to my customers about what is truly involved in the diagnoses and drive cycle after repair, most had no idea just how complicated it can be to truly diagnose, repair and than verify that repair.  

The check engine light comes on and a code is stored in the computers memory, the engine may or may not feel any different.  this is really where the confusion starts.  A loose gas cap can cause a “check engine light” but what on earth does the gas cap have to do with the engine?   I wish there were two lights and two legs to the the system one being a check engine light and the other being the check emissions light.  But the federal government was afraid of creating confusion with multiple systems, yes in 1996 The government decided we needed a standardized system. I agree that we needed some standardization , but the intent was to clean up the air and this attempt has largely failed.  The single biggest problem is lack of enforcement.  I hear so often that a Dealership told a driver the light was no big deal when the real secret is there are a lot of items on a newer car that are under warranty for a much longer period of time than most drivers are aware of.  Or I hear about a check engine light being on for three years with only maybe some confused partial attempt at repairs usually done by scanning it at the local parts store and installing one or two suspected “bad ” parts.      But there is only one light and there is no way to know if the check engine  light is on because of a loose gas cap or a failed coolant temperature sensor without a proper diagnoses  or at a minimum a code scan, one will let excessive hydrocarbons into the atmosphere in the way of raw fuel vapor and the other may leave you stranded.  

Here are some tips for 1996 and newer Subaru vehicles that will hopefully help.

On the dashboard of your car there are many different colors of light.  Lets break down the different colors and what they each mean. The turn signals are green and just like a traffic signal green means go.  The check engine light, ATF temperature light are yellow and yellow means proceed with caution.  The oil light & battery light are red and mean stop driving the car.  The additional aspect of the check engine and transmission temperature lights is the ability to flash which is basically an indication to stop driving the car.   If your check engine light starts flashing you need to have the car looked at as soon as possible.  

Consider purchasing a basic code scanner yourself if you have a diagnosed emissions related problem that you cannot afford to repair.  For example a Catalyst system may cost upwards of $1200.00 to repair and that could be a hard pill to swallow.  But since there is only one light how will you know if anything comes up? This is when I suggest a basic code scanner, if something new comes up on a weekly or biweekly scan you will know to have it diagnosed.   Keep in mind a code is only the starting point.

There are two different types of codes component and conditional codes, here are some of the most common codes we deal with and the process that needs to be done to truly get to the bottom of the code.

P0440 Evaporative emissions leak.  The ECM monitors the Evaporative system pressure and through the monitoring system believes there to be low or no pressure, the most common cause is a loose gas cap but a leak any where else in the system can cause this as well, typically a smoke generation machine is used to look for leaks in the Evaporative Emissions system A smoke machine can cost over $1000.00 and has on going cost in the way of the what ever is used to create the smoke such as mineral oil.  So why on one hand a loose gas cap is pretty easy to figure out, connecting a smoke machine to the proper ports in the Evaporative Emissions system then look for leaks, the Evaporative system runs from the fuel tank to the engine compartment stopping at the purge canister, vent solenoid and other components as well.  If no leaks are found there are other possibilities such as electronics not turning on or off as they should.  This could be anything from a failed solenoid, faulty wiring or problem with the vehicles computer. 

P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.  My favorite, Here is why the code is set.  Starting in 1996 every vehicle for sale in the U.S. had to have a way of monitoring Catalyst function.  The job of the Catalytic Converter is to take Carbon Monoxide (a by product of internal combustion) and convert some of it back to Oxygen, this is done with three precious metals, temperature & fuel mixture.  There is an Oxygen Sensor, or O2 sensor mounted in front of the Catalyst and one after.  The ECM (Engine Control Module) uses data from the O2 sensors to know if the Catalyst is doing its job of creating Oxygen.  Now the ECM does not constantly monitor the Catalyst system, this starts to get a bit complicated but depending on how the vehicle is being driven it is not always possible for the Catalyst to function properly as such in the ECM’s programming it will only monitor the Catalyst function after certain events have been met in a drive cycle.  Once the ECM is looking at Catalyst it uses the voltage values created by the front and rear O2 sensors to determine if the Catalyst is working with in the programmed threshold.  there are a couple of ways to properly test a Catalyst, but the most accurate way is to do a Catalytic Converter efficiency test.  This test involves running the vehicle until it is up to temperature, then install a 4 or 5 gas analyzer probe into the tail pipe of the exhaust, then shutting the vehicle off, disabling spark and fuel (to keep the vehicle from starting), injecting propane into the intake manifold, and cranking the vehicle over and obtaining the readings from the gas analyzer.  The reason for the test procedure is to remove the ECM, Mixture and O2 sensors from the loop, to purely test the Catalyst’s ability to function and it is a pass or fail test with a few Grey areas.  It is not possible to simulate this test with a generic scan tool in the Auto parts store parking lot.  A failed Catalyst is just one of many possible causes of this code and at the time of writing this article the list price for a one piece Catalytic Converter (found in most 1999 to 2004 models) from Subaru was $974.00 not including labor or gaskets.  If the Catalyst is not the cause which is very possible and the culprit is a O2 sensor there are other possible ramifications of not repairing the vehicle properly. If the Catalyst has failed, reasons as to why need to be investigated to avoid a quick repeat of the failure.  The number one cause we see at the shop is a failed head gasket allowing coolant into the exhaust and degrading the Catalytic Converter and or 02 sensors.  But we have also seen contaminated  gas, slow O2 sensors, and Mixture problems cause this as well.  You have to remember the Catalyst function is measured by the ECM as seen through the “eyes” of the O2 sensors.  If you live in Washington State and fail an Emissions test as a result of a check engine light and a PO420 code set, you can request they perform a tail pipe test and if it passes so should your car.  Why is this?  There is chatter that there is a disconnect in some cases between oxygen content in the exhaust and cars that will still run below the legal “measured” tail pipe Emissions standards for that year. 

In Washington state there is a limit an owner has to pay to obtain a waiver in lieu of making a vehicle pass the test and the vehicle is tested every 2 years.  The repair waiver is is granted as long as repairs and or diagnoses are done in the attempt of making the vehicle pass and this work is done by an authorized Washington state department of ecology emissions specialist.  This only applies to unmodified vehicles and is up to the state to decide if you qualify.  Other states have similar programs, and you should check the department of ecology website for the state you reside in for current information. 

P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, Cylinders 1 through 4 misfire also usually a flashing check engine light will occur as well.  On a second generation Subaru Engine the most common cause would be spark plug tube seals that have allowed oil onto the spark plug wires and plugs, but we also see a fair amount of failed coils, plug wires, spark plugs and some models with an injector failure.  From there a burnt valve, broken ring, rodent chewed wiring and gasket leaks are all examples of things that can cause a misfire code as well.  A flashing check engine light really means you should not drive the car as damage can occur to the Catalyst, rod bearings, head gaskets and the list goes on. 

So one day the light comes on and the gas cap is found loose, but the next time the light comes on tightening the gas cap doesn’t fix it.  Frustrated vehicle owners take cars in to have the check engine light  repaired and it is, for a couple of months but then comes on again.  The owner than takes the car back to the shop where the service advisor, owner  or Technician has the task of trying to explain that most likely its just a new problem.  This is a very common situation that happens and there are a wide variety of reasons as to why this happens.  This is one of the single biggest reasons you should have a place you take your car to for all your service needs.  Taking it to shop A and then to shop B three months later will typically not yield the best results.  If you have lost confidence in a shop on a repeated check engine light situation that is understandable.  A good repair shop will document what codes are set each time the car comes in what was done to diagnose and or repair the condition if it is a different code each time it is most likely a different issue each time.  If there is an ongoing issue keeping one shop involved is a better way to go in most cases.   There are always exceptions to this and only works if the shop you are taking your car too is familiar with the brand.  Sometimes it takes a significant amount of time to diagnose certain conditions that may trigger a check engine light.  A general repair shop is going to have a disadvantage in some cases over a specialist in one make of vehicle.  As we specialize in Subaru we have a huge advantage over the shop down the street that works on every type car that comes in.  Dealership service departments are all about profit and productivity and are generally a bad choice for a problem child that will take a lot of time to get to the bottom of, its just not what they are good at. 

Auto repair is not an exact science, sometimes a good diagnoses is a process of elimination and can be very time consuming as well as frustrating for both driver and shop alike, but it doesn’t have to be that way, a better understanding about how the systems actually work can go along way to clearing up confusion.

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

Whichever name they go by, the joint’s job is basically to allow flex or movement out of the drive axle and pretty much every front wheel drive or in the case of your Subaru, All Wheel Drive utilizes this design.   The job of the CV boot is to keep the lubricating grease inside the joints and the environment out of the joints as well. 

The boots are made out of rubber and do not last forever just like belts and hoses wear out, crack or become weak with age and time so do the axle boots.  The right side CV boot on the front of most non turbo 4 cylinder models is the most prone to failure as it sits very close to the exhaust and heat plays a part in the failure.   Typically when this boot fails grease is sprayed onto the exhaust and causes a very strong smell.    There are many different ways in which a CV boot can fail from clamp failure a full rip or tear of the boot.   The single best way to approach this repair is to re boot the existing O.E. Subaru axle prior to the CV joint failing.  Repairing the boot failure prior to the joint running out of grease, or dirt and grit entering the joint will allow a more economical and a better, longer lasting repair than what I am about to talk about next.

A very typical thing we see is a tire or general repair shop taking out an axle for a CV boot failure and installing a “Brand New made in China” axle.  This can start a lot of trouble in many cases.  The quality of the CV axles made in China is very suspect to say the least.     We have seen everything from vibrations at idle and very pronounced vibrations under load to boots that last just a year before they tear open again as compared to the original boots that lasted 5 to 6 years on average.     Now as the suspension ages the boots may not last as long as the first set of boots but a boot that won’t make it a year without issue is really low quality.   Vibration problems can be a biggie with aftermarket axles as well this can be under acceleration, turning or even just at idle.   Excessive play in the inner joint allows the inner portion of the joint to move back and forwards within the inner joint housing is typically the cause of this. 

Next is the one size fits all axle we see so often, with the incorrect inner sealing ring installed.   We have seen this cause premature failure of wheel bearings by not providing the proper seal where the CV axle fits into the wheel bearing, seals and hub.    Aftermarket parts vendors try to keep costs down by eliminating part numbers and providing one axle that can be used in both ABS(Anti Lock Brake System) and Non ABS both.  The difference being the Toner ring installed on the axle outer CV joint.  The toner ring spins with the axle; a sensor interprets this as a speed and inputs information back to the ABS module.  By coming up with an axle that can physically be installed in either application the Aftermarket parts maker has reduced its inventory and production costs, good for their business but not so good for your Subaru.  A large supplier of axles has also decided that because the older 2 wheel drive axle used by Subaru many years ago which was larger in size and believed to be stronger, has decided for you that your newer Subaru should have a 2 Wheel drive axle installed regardless of the fact that this puts the inner cv boot much closer to the exhaust and it will fail very quickly the 2 wheel drive axle in the earlier years was larger in diameter than the AWD axles.

Remanufactured axles have mostly gone away, Subaru has had a here now gone tomorrow Remanufactured axle program that has had some quality control issues as well and they are a bit pricey.  A new axle from Subaru is typically over $500.00 and not always available.  There used to be better solutions but the flood of cheap priced aftermarket parts brought down the price to repair but really brought down the quality of the repair with it.

It is much easier to just swap out axles and there are plenty of shops that employ Tech’s that may be scared of taking apart the axle or may not have the right tools to do the job.  Or a shop may look at the potential profit of installing a low cost axle and not care that much about how long the repair lasts.  Another real possibility is just plain lack of understanding.  The O.E. Subaru axle that came in the car when it was new is much superior in quality to anything that can be purchased in the aftermarket and much better than a Subaru Remanufactured axle as well.  Catching the boot failure early when the boot is starting to crack will keep the costs down and yield a much better repair. 

This is another reason to not take your Subaru to a quick lube center for an oil change, while they  will always catch a dirty air filter and suggets a transmission flush,  but since they can’t repair cv boots, they won’t know what to look for, if they look at all.

Below are some pictures of some axles.

This is an AWD axle next to a 2WD axle, you can see the difference in size.

New Cv boot on an original Subaru axle

A torn open inner boot and a joint that has grit and grime inside of it now.

New Cv boot installed on the inner joint of an O.E. Subaru axle 

Thanks for reading

Justin

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

Here is a link to an article written about Stacy Anderson with Organized Innovations.  Stacey has also authored a book as well.  Way to Go Stacey!!

http://www.pnwlocalnews.com/east_king/bel/lifestyle/52677882.html

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

One big example of this is with aftermarket thermostats, we have yet to see one that even comes close to looking and functioning like the original Subaru part.  Now the effects of installing a lesser quality part may not be immediately known, there is no way that installing the below pictured component in lieu of the O.E. Subaru part is going to do your Subaru any bit of good.   The cooling system in a Subaru really has no margin for error and should always be in the best condition it can if you want to avoid costly repairs. 

The O.E Subaru is on the left, the aftermarket on the right there is really no comparison here.

A thermostat plays a much bigger role than it did in the past as vehicles now have both mechanical and electronic controls.  A weak part in the system can make it difficult for the vehicle’s computer to help regulate or maintain engine temperature based on its programming if the part that was originally installed has been taken out in favor of a thermostat that is not up to the task.  The thermostat starts to open as the cooling system temperature rises, then when the coolant in contact with the thermostat reaches the desired temperature it opens fully to allow full coolant flow.

This alone does not keep the vehicle’s cooling system from reaching the boiling point; the computer also plays a major role by monitoring coolant temperature with readings from the coolant temperature sensor and turning on the cooling fans when the temperature gets to the desired readings that are to be maintained.   A weak thermostat may affect the amount of time the cooling fans are on, and we have seen an aftermarket thermostat cause a “cooling fan rationality check” (PO483) code to be set by the vehicles computer and the check engine light to be illuminated as a result.  The computer is programmed to maintain the temperature for the best fuel economy possible and to help lower the vehicle’s emissions readings.

The cost to you for a thermostat could vary by only a couple of dollars in most cases, but the reason a general repair shop may revert to an aftermarket part is that the cost to them for an aftermarket thermostat will be much less than the O.E. Subaru part. The typical cost for an aftermarket thermostat is generally half the price of the Subaru part.  A good independent Subaru repair shop like All Wheel Drive Auto will know the right parts to use in your car, where we can save you some money, and where there is just no Substitute for the Original parts that came on your Subaru.

Thanks for reading

Justin

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

Through the years a lot has changed about diagnostic procedures and more importantly the tools in which are used to help a Technician reach the right conclusions.   Pictured below are the three different Subaru Select monitors that have been in use.  The current version is part scan tool and part pc based platform that also gives us the ability to re-flash a Subaru vehicles ECM (Engine Control Module).  This is an important distinction between us and some of the other shops around, we believe in staying current with the diagnostic tools and procedures to keep you Subaru running its best.

Some Subaru problems pertaining to performance and check engine lights have been addressed with a logic update much in the same way a bug in a pc is resolved with a software update.  This is true of some of the other systems in the car as well.  We believe this is a very important service to offer our customers and a great way to truly fix problems other shops may not be able to take care of.

The Subaru Select Monitor “the original” was capable of reading codes, and one line of data could be read at a time as well as a series of lights to indicate function of various components.

The Subaru Select Monitor II came out in time for OBD II (On Board Diagnostics two) and is a big step up from the Select monitor, being able to read multiple lines of data, tap into other systems the ability to graph sensor readings and it has a built in volt ohm meter with digital oscilloscope.  The Subaru select monitor II has the ability to re-flash the ECM as well with the proper flash cartridge.

The Subaru Select Monitor III is part Pc and part scan tool or pass through device.  The Scan tool has a built in flash memory card and can be used as a “flight recorder” meaning sensor readings can be recorded over the course of a test drive and later uploaded to the PC where the data can be looked at by the diagnosing technician. The new version of the Select Monitor also allows the technician to graph sensor data,  look at multiple lines of data (more than ever before) Reflash the Vehicle’s Computer, program remotes and is a great needed tool to diagnose modern Subaru problems.

We believe one sign of a great repair shop is staying current to offer the best service possible.

Thanks for reading

Justin

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

The timing belt has a big job to do it must keep the camshafts spinning in time with the crank shaft.  This is so the valves open up at the proper time in the combustion cycle in correlation with air and fuel coming in, compression and spark exploding the mixture and the exhaust valves opening up to release the leftovers.  At the same time the timing belt needs to turn the water pump and be able to self adjust in current models.  Over time the rubber stretches out above the tensioner’s ability to keep it tight under all load conditions and just like your tires the rubber belt will age, wear and crack and ultimately could break. 

A worn or stretched timing belt can cause performance issues as well as increased fuel consumption, not in miles per gallon but in miles per tank.

Every vehicle manufacturer provides a warranty so long as the maintenance is done, every car company also has a breakdown of vehicle maintenance such as 30/60/90k service with a clear break down of what should be inspected and replaced at particular service intervals.  But what is not understood is it does not look good to list a lot of items to be replaced.  Meaning if you are Subaru or any other car company it doesn’t pay to be truly honest of all of the potential service needs because your car will be perceived to cost more to own than the next and a lot of people make buying decisions based on cost of ownership studies provided by JD Powers, and consumer reports to name a couple.  Subaru and every other car maker leaves it up to whoever is servicing the car to inform or “sell the customer” on items not listed in the maintenance booklet.  This is nothing new to the industry but is one aspect of maintenance if not done correctly can have some serious ramifications.

There are many different levels of parts quality, some shops will gravitate to the lowest cost part and as long as its new and lasts the standard warranty period of one year that’s all that matters to them.   Next the skill level of Techs can vary greatly as well.  If you are calling around for the best price on a service you really need to understand there may be a difference in the quality of the service your Subaru will receive having the timing belt done isn’t nearly as good as having it done completely with quality components by Technicians that really know what to look out for on your Subaru.

We approach this the right way, service your Subaru so there are no problems later by doing the job complete so there is no reason to go back in one or two years later.  We offer a lower price than the Dealer service department but in some cases will be priced higher than a tire store offering a timing belt replacement.  This is going to be a typical situation across the country, independent Subaru repair shops will typically be lower priced than a dealer service department but more expensive than “John Doe’s auto” and that is typically because we know the right parts to use and take pride in offering the best service possible.  John Doe may not realize the green idler pulley is going to fail, or that there is a service bulletin pertaining to the timing belt tensioner and bracket.

The timing belt should be replaced at the 105k interval but the procedure to replace the belt is more complex than just replacing the belt.  Part of the timing belt replacement procedure is to remove the timing belt and inspect the timing components.  If after inspection any or all of the timing components are found to be questionable they should be done.  This includes the timing belt tensioner, timing belt idlers, water pump, and cam and crank seals.   The large expense of replacing the timing belt is the labor but once the Technician is behind the timing covers there are a lot of things that can be done to limit forward going ownership costs.  We hear all the time about the dealer or another shop replacing the timing belt and leaving a tensioner to fail at a later date.  This first picture shows what can happen when a timing belt tensioner is left to chance.  This tensioner was ignored by a Dealer service department in another state only to fail 6 months later and the cost was significant as the timing belt came off and valve train damage was done.  What could have been done for $152.00 or so (depending on the dealers mark up above list price) Turned into a $2000.00 valve job plus the cost of the tensioner, damaged timing belt and the time without a functioning Subaru.   

The idea of replacing the timing belt only and thinking the tensioner or idlers are going to last another 105k without any issue is a gamble.  I am not suggesting that every part needs to be done every time but in the case of the timing belt tensioner it really is a must replace in my opinion or you are just inviting a problem.

This is a picture of a first generation 2.5l that need to be inspected as part of a quality timing belt replacement procedure.

You can see that there is a lot more to a timing belt than just the belt, all of the components that are located behind the timing covers and that can affect the life of the timing belt all need to be inspected.  Notice the way the timing belt is putting pressure on the water pump (the part with the hose attached on the right)

These are the components of a second Generation 2.5l The idler on the right has been superseded to the one in the middle but can still be used.

Next is a picture showing the difference between the O.E. Timing belt idler and one made by an aftermarket parts company.  The original part used and the one superseded by Subaru call for a double bearing type idler and this one shown in the picture is a far cry from a part that “meets or exceeds” original parts manufacture.  

No matter how you look at it, the parts in the two pictures above are not of the same quality and if you aren’t careful you could end up with the green one and worse for the same price as the one next to it.  If it lasts the warranty period but not much longer it will cost more to correct it a second time. 

There is no need to sacrifice quality when saving money.  A good independent Subaru repair shop can save you money over a higher priced dealer service department and do much more for less.   That is what we offer at All Wheel Drive Auto, complete repairs you can rely on.

Bookmark It

Hide Sites

The 2000 to 2004 Subaru Legacy, Legacy GT and Outback have had some problems with leaks at both the high side hose from the AC compressor to the Condenser (mounted in front of the radiator) and the Low side AC hose from the Compressor to the Evaporator core (in the Dash area).   These leaks should be caught early to prevent non function or worse a system that works while it is low on refrigerants and oil as well.

A standard AC service usually runs $129.99 from now until the end of June we are going to offer this service for $99.99.  This service includes a before and after performance test, leak test, complete recovery and recycle of refrigerant in the vehicle, evacuation of the system to remove moisture and increase AC system performance, new oil and refrigerant back into the system.  If during the test we find a leak is present we will bring this to your attention as just like a hole in a tire, if it isn’t repaired it will just leak back out.  Not to mention that a leaking AC system is very hard on the environment as well.

Call 425 828 3600 to schedule an appointment or via email service@allwheeldriveauto.com

Bookmark It

Hide Sites