Subaru & Toyota Summer Tips: When ‘Severe’ Is Just Normal

At All Wheel Drive Auto, we want to be transparent about what actually protects your Subaru or Toyota—and your wallet—in real-world driving.

As we roll into the warmer months, it’s the perfect time to revisit how you care for your car—especially with those long-planned road trips on the horizon. Most people aren’t aware that there are different driving categories that may apply to them. There’s “normal driving,” which is mostly used by manufacturers to advertise low maintenance costs. Then there’s “severe service driving,” which—believe it or not—applies to the majority of us.

What Is Severe Driving?

Most manufacturers define “severe driving” as:

• Frequent short trips, stop-and-go traffic, or extended idling (think summer errands and I-405)
• Driving in hot, cold, dusty, muddy, or humid conditions (hello Western Washington)
• Towing trailers or gear for road trips, camping, or water sports
• Mountain or coastal drives with elevation changes and winding roads
• Spirited or off-road adventures

Even if you’re not racing, summer driving can be hard on your vehicle. That’s why we lean on the severe service schedule—because it’s built for reality, not ideal conditions.

Why It Matters: Protect the Car You Depend On

When you rely on your Subaru or Toyota for work, family, or weekend getaways, preventative maintenance becomes essential.

Sure, longer factory intervals sound good on paper. And yes, “low cost of ownership” is a big selling point for new cars—which is exactly why those intervals are set where they are in the first place.

Delayed service may save a buck today—but it can cost more in the long term. We never want to have our customers’ vehicles go from what could be maintenance to a “repair” type situation.

Real-World Service Intervals That Make a Difference

• CVT Fluid: Subaru calls it “lifetime,” but if you tow, haul gear, or drive with heavier loads regularly, it should be replaced every 24,855 miles.
• Brake/Clutch Fluid: If you live in a humid climate or drive in elevation, replace every 15,000 miles or 15 months. Brake fluid absorbs moisture—quickly—and when combined with heat, that moisture can become acidic and corrosive.
• Air & Cabin Filters: Dusty summer roads and dry conditions clog filters faster—these should be changed more often to protect airflow and HVAC performance.
• Coolant: First replacement is around 11 years/137,500 miles, but the second drops to 6 years/75,000 miles—which always feels a little off. Why wait so long the first time only to do it more often later? If you’re towing, climbing mountain passes, or driving in hot weather, we recommend starting to think about your first coolant service around 60–70K miles.
• Differential Fluid: We still recommend every 15,000 miles or 15 months under heavy load, towing, or off-pavement driving.
• Alignment: While most tire manufacturers recommend every 6,000 miles, we suggest once per year or every 15K miles for most drivers. It’s a cheap way to protect tire life and handling.
• A/C Performance Check: Not blowing as cold as it used to? Even a small refrigerant leak can let moisture into the system—and that leads to corrosion or compressor damage.
• Tire Wear: Anything near 4/32nds should be considered not necessarily great for longer road trips, and anything under 3/32nds is considered worn and should be replaced.
  

Heat, Moisture & Load = Fluid Breakdown

Heat is one of the biggest stressors on your vehicle’s fluids. Add in short trips, stop-and-go traffic, moisture, or extra weight from towing or gear—and fluids like oil, coolant, and brake fluid break down faster than factory intervals account for.

What’s supposed to last a certain amount of  miles or time can lose its protective qualities much sooner—turning acidic, sludgy, or corrosive.

That’s why we recommend maintenance based on how you actually drive, not just ideal conditions.

🔧 Summer Subaru Tip Guide: Real-World Advice for Longevity

1. Match Maintenance to Your Driving Style
   A retired driver doing light trips around town? You may not need a CVT service yet.
   Towing gear or heading over the pass regularly? That changes things.
   We tailor your service to you, not just a number on the odometer.
2. Oil Change Intervals: Don’t Push It
   Heat, short trips, and A/C use all break oil down faster, causing it to become acidic and adding extra wear on gaskets, seals, and internal sealants.
   Shorter intervals also let us keep a better eye on fluid levels, leaks, and overall health—before things go sideways.
3. Space Out Services—We’ll Help You Prioritize
   Don’t try to fix everything at once. Let’s take a look at your vehicle, your driving habits, and what you actually need it to do.
   From there, we’ll build a step-by-step plan that makes sense for your schedule and your budget—without the overwhelm.
4. Going Over the Pass or Towing? Prep Now
   Elevation, heavy loads, and summer traffic all strain your car. Get a full inspection before your trip so you’re not dealing with roadside problems.
5. Watch Tire Wear in the Heat
   Hot roads + long drives = faster wear. Oils come to the surface of the pavement in heat, and if your tires are already low in the 5-4/32nds range, they’ll wear quickly.
6. Not Sure Where You’re At?
   If you’ve only had basic oil changes, or just aren’t sure where your overall vehicle health stands, a complete vehicle inspection might be a good idea.
7. Think of Maintenance Like A Habit
   The cars that last the longest aren’t always babied – they’re just cared for consistently. Neglect can build slowly until it can’t be ignored. Routine maintenance may not feel urgent but it’s what keeps you driving confidently and reliably for the long haul

Don’t Let Payments Replace Maintenance

With new vehicle prices higher than ever, it doesn’t make financial sense to jump ship at the first sign of maintenance needs. If your vehicle’s still a good candidate, we’ll help you invest in what you already own.

We’re here to build a smarter, more realistic service plan based on how you actually use your car.

Our goal is simple: Get you and your vehicle road trip ready, with service based on how you drive, planned out for your life, by tailored intervals based on your driving with thoughtful, spaced out planning. After all, you do drive our reputation.

Thanks for reading

-Joe Malinosky

The post Subaru & Toyota Summer Tips: When ‘Severe’ Is Just Normal appeared first on All Wheel Drive Auto.

For this post, I will mostly cover the 2011-2013 FB Engine found in the Forester, as I have written so much already about the EJ series head gaskets in prior posts. Questions we get at the shop include.

• What are the common causes?
• What are the typical costs?
• What can I do to avoid the issue?
• Do all Subarus leak oil?

I will do my best to cover some of these questions as best as possible. There are so many answers to these questions and to be able to answer we have to break it down by era, by generation of model, by engine type within a generation of model. So the purpose of this article I am going to focus on the 2009-2013 Forester as it’s a good example of a single generation of Forester but with many changes to engine configuration. For example, from a generational stand point a 2011 Forester is really the same platform as a 2009, but in 2011 the engine changed while the “platform” or generation of Forester stayed the same.   

When it comes to oil leaks what might be leaking oil on a 2009-2010 Forster with an EJ 2.5l is totally different than what might leak oil on a 2011-2013 Forester with a FB 2.5l even though they are technically the same size engine within the same generation of Forester. 

This is where you really owe it to yourself to take your Subaru to someone who understands all of these differences or the wrong leak may be identified, the wrong repairs estimated and the wrong repairs performed. This can both cost you money and possibly not fully correct your Subaru Forester’s oil leaks. 

For example an NA EJ 2.5l series engine will develop oil leaks from the head gaskets and that’s the single most common issue for that era of EJ engines, but has no timing cover to leak oil. There are other items such as cam seals, main seals, valve cover gaskets, oil pumps and more that can and will leak the head gaskets that just about everyone is going to need at some point in ownership..

Whereas an FB 2.5L engine’s most common oil leak is actually going to be from the timing cover and while it’s possible for a head gasket to leak it’s typically an internal leak and not one that leaks oil externally. We do also see a fair amount of cam case leaks as well. Some main seal leaks, some Valve cover leaks but again it’s the timing cover that’s going to fall into that its just a matter of time. I will add that when it comes to an oil leak from failed sealer rather than a seal or gasket, the single best practice is to change the oil on time and more importantly on time has to be based on how you and I mean you use the car, not the fantasy of what the maintenance booklet says with all sorts of fine print notes at the bottom, but instead real world how do you use your Subaru.  

But the casual or generalist type auto tech may not understand this and incorrectly suggest a more expensive head gasket repair on an FB when what the Subaru actually needs is just a timing cover reseal. 

There are also the challenges of the proper type of repair techniques, has anyone thought about if there is anything that can be done to limit the possibility of a repeat failure?  What sealers will be used, what’s the approach to cure time of the sealers?  

I cringe sometimes when I learn a customer had a Timing cover or cam case type repair made at the Subaru Dealer and it was done in one day,  as the instructions for the sealer calls for 24 hours of cure time. When the sealer isn’t allowed to cure the repair life will be shortened.

The Subaru FB Engines have many sensors and wiring that will be negatively affected by engine oil leaking onto them which can cause a check engine light and poor performance.

While repairing oil leaks on a modern Subaru is a somewhat common repair, the length of time in which the Subaru will go prior to needing repairs is once again predicated upon how the car is used and how your Subaru is maintained.  If you drive your Subaru in lots of stop and go traffic, make lots of short trips and you are changing your oil every 7000 miles you will have oil leaks sooner than a different Subaru driver making lots of extended freeway trips and changing the oil every 5000 miles. The longer the oil is in the car the more excess fuel will be collected into the crankcase and if the car is not driven in a way to get the fuel in the crankcase to convert to vapor and be burned off it will dilute the oil and attacks the sealer used to seal the timing cover, cam cases and portions of the head gaskets.   

Just like with the head gaskets we saw in the 1999-2012 EJ SOHC, the Subaru’s with low miles and slack oil changes always leak more and need the repairs based on mileage much earlier than a Subaru maintained based on how it’s used. 

There is no one size fits all maintenance requirement, there are only guidelines based on typical use. If you want the most value from your investment, maintaining it based on how you actually use the car is your best bet and no the Subaru dealer is not who you should ask. The single biggest misconception in auto repair and service is that the experts work at the dealer. This is like going to McDonald’s for fine dining. Dealers utilize the franchise model, they are more interested in the quick easy recall, maintenance services and begrudgingly make warranty repairs as they must. While some of the Techs may have skills, it requires a different mind set for a technician to work at a Dealer. The first rule is you can’t really care because if you do you will never make money and be able to sport your family. Next, anything you do to cost the manufacturer money is frowned upon and in many cases can cause people to lose jobs. 

I bring this up as theoretical ownership cost studies are the single biggest detriment to properly maintaining your car and in some cases when they are not as truthful as they should be can cause you to make an uniformed purchase and put service providers in the tricky spot of trying to educate car owners and the merits of proper maintenance VS only doing the minimum. Minimum effort in just about everything in life always yields the minimum results.  

Does every Subaru leak oil? 

More likely than not at some point in ownership of any car you own there is a pretty good chance there will be fluid leaks that need to be addressed. The utilization of the boxer engine for a low center of gravity and an overall safer platform puts the Subaru at a slight disadvantage to cars utilizing an inline or V design engine. This is only in terms of how an oil leak is perceived, not that the engine or platform is superior in a non Boxer configuration.

A small oil leak at a cam case, head gasket, valve cover gasket etc. on an inline 4 cylinder can take years from the very beginning of a leak until the leak is severe enough to drip on the ground, whereas a Subaru given its Engine configuration will drip on the ground at the very beginning.  Now add that there are wiring and sensors in close proximity to the oil dripping and we have a repair that’s going to need to be sooner in most cases.   

Costs to repair vary greatly depending on exactly where the leak is coming from and if anything was damaged as a result of a leak. The longer you put off a leak the more it’s going to cost, the longer you stretch out oil change intervals the more likely you will have a leak. For example if we catch a timing cover leak before the wiring to the Oil control solenoids or front 02 also known as the front Air Fuel sensor or even A/F sensor pictured below, we can save a Subaru owner hundreds of dollars vs repairing it only after the check engine light has come on and performance has suffered.

The FB Engine is still a 300,000 mile or longer platform, but its just not going to get there without proper maintenance and proper maintenance must always be done based on how you use your Subaru. 

 Thanks for reading 

-Justin Stobb

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A Question that I still seem to be asked quite often is did “Subaru ever fix the head gasket problem”  or do Subaru’s still blow Head gaskets. Its September of 2023, I wrote my first post about this in 2007  

 If you want to read other posts about Subaru Headgasket leaks and comments from other Subaru owners before reading this here are the two more common reads.

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gaskets-problems-explained-part-ii/

It’s such a simple question it seems, but the answer can be so complex if it’s an honest one.

Typically speaking to most Subaru owners or to someone doing research about a Subaru they are thinking about buying, this is usually about the 1st-3rd generation Subaru Legacy, Legacy Outback, Subaru Forester and Impreza with even more complexities in certain years. These initial problems will fall under the EJ series engines with variants the EJ2.51, 2, 3, 4, 9.  I am not going to call out the variants in this post for certain years and models as that would be very time consuming and this would become a book rather than a post. I will also add that for some EJ variants there are “versions” I mean why not have EJ2.55 versions 1-3, just for fun? 

There’s really a lot to cover here so I don’t know if one post is going to be enough to provide enough detail, but I am going to start with a little history, and this is through the eyes of a Subaru Technician.   

Subaru first introduced the 2.5l in 1995 in the Subaru Legacy Outback. This engine was available in 1996 in a more refined version of the Outback with increased ground clearance and more cargo space due to an elevated roof line.  The 2.5l was only available with an automatic transmission for the 1996 Model year meaning if you wanted the manual you were stuck with the smaller EJ2.2l engine. 

The first version of the 2.5l utilized a single layer composite type head gasket and was prone to the same external fluid leaks the 2.2ls were and in some cases would fail internally allowing combustion pressure and temperatures into the cooling system. If I was going to suggest an average life expectancy I would say 150k before they failed internally or were leaking so much oil onto the exhaust you were embarrassed to drive it aka the Subaru Smoke show at the traffic light.

In 1997 the Subaru Legacy GT, and Subaru Legacy Outback finally came with the EJ2.5l DOHC (Dual Overhead Cam) and a manual transmission; the power difference between the 2.2l and the EJ2.5l was very apparent especially in a manual in 1997-1999. The 1997 Model EJ2.5l utilized a MLS (multi layer steel) type gasket as the engine transitioned from hydraulic lash adjusted valve train to mechanical. The overall drivability of the EJ2.5l in 1997 was far improved over the 1995/1996 versions.  

Subaru’s sales began to grow with the Paul Hogan marketing and appeal of the Outback utility and Subaru went from being the weird car with the spare tire under the hood to what it’s known for now, AWD, utility, reliability, safety.

In about mid 1998 we started to see the 1997’s with the MLS gaskets with internal failures. Subaru was quick to come up with an updated version of the head gaskets. Thicker and with more layers these updates MLS gaskets fixed the problems that plagued the DOHC 2.5l produced from 1995-1999 in the Subaru Legacy, Legacy Outback, Legacy GT, Impreza RS and the Subaru Forester in 1998.  In my eyes Subaru’s updated head gaskets for this window of models resolved the problems that existed in these models in these years only. This of course assumes it was fixed properly which is quite an assumption given the complex problems that the flat rate pay system at a Dealership presents especially for any job done under warranty.

This is why Subarus repaired at my shop go years and years with no problems and why a Subaru owner having repairs done at s Subaru dealer regardless of being done under warranty or what’s called “customer pay”  may only get a year or two out of the repairs.

Moving on to the EJ2.5l SOHC and the huge problems Subaru began to have. This is the EJ2.52, EJ2.53 (mostly)

In 1999 the 1 year old Subaru Forester was equipped with the SOHC (Single Overhead Cam) 2.5l still has 16 valves just uses different Valve train geometry to open and close them and is equipped with the single layer steel and composite material type head gasket. The Subaru Forester in 1999 looks unchanged to the untrained eye with the exception of the change from the DOHC 2.5l to the SOHC version. 

In 2000 The Outback came out with its own name plate, no longer just a trim level of the Subaru Legacy the Subaru Outback was now its own model. This was also a complete refresh and brought with it the SOHC the Forester was equipped with in 1999. 

By the time the 2001’s were coming out we were seeing a ton of the 1999 Forester and 2000 Outback with external coolant leaks.  Leading to the WWP 99 campaign which was a total cop out by Subaru and I will add one that they also got away with.  This basically allowed Subaru to kick the can down the road and add stop leak aka “cooling system conditioner”  to the cooling system which stopped the coolant drips albeit it only for a while, but it sure didn’t keep these gaskets from leaking oil or failing internally over time.    

Subaru also updated the head gasket to one that looked exactly like the failed one and failed pretty much just as quickly as the original.  There are so many things I could go into here including years later Subaru’s with multiple doses of “cooling system conditioner”  ending up with clogged radiators and worse heater cores as the kick the can down the road chemicals when exposed to air during the course of the cooling system being opened up for a lengthy period of time for the inevitable head gasket repair will solidify like concrete.  

Subaru used in production the updated version of the head gasket which again solved nothing  up until 2009 in the Legacy and Outback.  2011 in the Impreza and 2010 in the Forester. 

Here is where the next few years get very complicated. 

2010-2012 Outback and legacy uses a MLS version of the head gasket found in the 2.5l, while this resolves any external oil and coolant leaks we have found they can and will fail internally around 120-150k and almost a guaranteed failure if the Subaru is ever ran low on coolant. These gaskets are also not backwards compatible due to design changes within the cylinder heads and cooling system. But also if well maintained may possibly never fail as in we have seen lots with up to 300k now.  So to review Subaru stuck with the composite gaskets from 1999 to 2009 as in a decade only to change to MLS but only for the Legacy and Outback and only for 3 model years.  

2010 Subaru Outback Example

In 2011 Subaru introduced the new kid, the FB2.5l engine and did what Subaru does best, put the new kid in the Forester. Let the Forester drivers work out the bugs before they put it into the flagship Subaru Outback. 

2011 Subaru Forester in For FB Oil Leaks

The Impreza gets the FB2.0l in 2012, same thing with the new Crosstrek aka lifted Impreza in 2013.  I Will sprinkle in the FA2.0 that starts out in the BRZ as well in 2012. 

So by 2013 the EJ series is all but gone with the exception of the WRX and STI and we are now talking about the FB engines with a few mentions of the FA’s. Confused yet?  Perfect… Let’s talk FB’s 

I kind of stopped taking questions on the Blog in regards to the FB’s because there are so many complexities, so many changes, updates etc.  it’s really hard to cover all of it, so I am also not going to try and cover all of it here either as this would also be another book rather than now a really long post. 

I want to pause a moment and go back in time to the EJ2.2l which many Subaru Fans and Owners alike believe was the best engine they ever made.  While I will agree with some of it I want to point out the 2.2l leaked oil (albeit later in life), it could also never exist with the current government mandated emissions and efficiency standards and that’s why it doesn’t exist and it’s also why the EJ continued to evolve until it couldn’t exist any longer and why we now have the FB’s.

So here I am now talking about the 2011 Subaru Forester with the 2.5l FB with 61,600 in front of me in the year 2014 and while there are zero signs of external or internal head gaskets failures it uses so much oil in between “stepped up” 3000 mile interval oil changes.  How do I even begin to comment to a reader of my blog about if Subaru fixed the head gasket problem?  I guess the answer is yes we hardly observed external oil leaks on FB equipped Subarus.  

Because I am trying to keep this post about head gaskets to answer that question I am not going to get into oil consumption or timing chain related issues only mention them. 

The FB series engines don’t have the type of head gasket related issues the EJ series engines did, I can say that with sincerity if someone asks me that question and I only answer that question I can say with absolute certainty the answer to the question “did Subaru ever fix that head gasket issue”  is well kind of. I can’t say yes and I can’t say no and here is why. 

The FB’s while not really known for head gasket leaks can and will leak oil from the Cam Cases and the Timing Cover and very much in the way the head gasket issues in the EJ’s affected different drivers at different intervals it’s the same with the FB’s the better maintained higher mileage vehicles are less affected then the lower mileage and or minimum amount of maintenance cars the later having issues as early as 30k. 

Subaru FB2.5 Engine Oil Leak

Here’s the elephant in the room, no, here’s the herd or parade of elephants in the room.

1. The FB engine utilizes timing chains and is a much more complicated or time consuming  power plant to work on. To repair the Cam Case leak the engine needs to come out and be torn down to the point where it’s not that much more work to do the head gaskets…. Should we not just do them now and know we won’t have to worry about this later or do we do a huge repair only to have a huge one we could have avoided be presented a couple of years later? What if it’s just a year later?  We also know that Timing chain stretch is a real problem that some Subarus can have, what about the timing chains? While still a significant expense done now while apart saves thousands of dollars vs having to replace them later. Timing chains to resolve a check engine light is a common repair due to stretch beyond initial learned value tolerance concerns present in the ECM
2. Because of what I just presented above the cost to reseal Cam Cases on a FB is a lot more expensive than a Head gasket repair on an EJ.  
3. If we don’t present the complete repair, are we providing the best service, if over the internet I don’t try to explain to readers all the whys and why nots am I really helping?
4. The FB Short Block and potential oil consumption issues pre and post repairs

So if you’re concerned about buying a FB equipped Subaru and wondering about Head Gasket leaks that’s probably not really going to be a concern. While a Cam Case leak can be an expensive repair. When its done right will last and there is no reason to shoot the horse because it’s hungry. The modern day version of this is to trade in a car that needs work for a new one. New cars come with big payments just waiting for service and repairs needed in time.

Have any questions about your Subaru ask away on this or any of the other posts here on this website in the comments section. Starting in November 2023 I will start answering your questions on my new Podcast.  I’ve found that its a lot easier and better for you to hear me speak rather than read my typos    

If you’re local to us and want a second opinion about your Subaru are here to help

Subaru & Toyota Service Appointments

Schedule your next service here or call: 425-828-3600 for Kirkland and 425 354 5200 for Bothell.

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We want to help you get to your destination and back trouble free! Here are some tips to help you have a successful road trip in your Subaru.

• Be sure to check your tires! Any tire at or below 2/32 of an inch of tread life remaining needs replacement. And don’t forget about your spare! Make sure your tire pressures are set to correct levels. This is a good idea all year around, but making sure all 5 are set at proper levels before prolonged road time is crucial to safety.
• If you are planning on towing anything with your Subaru, please understand just how much, or in reality, how little your Subaru can tow. Keep in mind your passenger & cargo in your Subaru when contemplating how much your going to put in a tow behind trailer.
• If you have a CVT Transmission, and plan on carrying a heavier load, or even doing some lite towing or off-roading, it would be advantageous to the life of the transmission to service the fluid. We are all aware that Subaru CVT’s can be a bit sensitive, and under “normal” service conditions, is not suppose to need service. If you check  your owners manual, there is a “severe service” section that states under towing or off-roading, the fluid should be changed every 24,500 miles.
• Rain in Summer can release oils out of the road materials and onto the road, while the rain makes it that much more slick. This goes back to making sure the tires on your Subaru are in good shape, but even the best tires need a responsive Driver. During the Summer months road construction also increases and you need to be cautious of that when traveling.
• If you don’t know when the last time your Subaru had a wheel alignment, there is no time like the present!
• Check all of your fluids and change as needed! During summer months fluids are at more risk of evaporation and breaking down under extreme temperatures. This can be especially true for brake fluid! If it has collected enough moisture, it can actually boil during heavy brake use, like coming down a mountain pass with a full load of family and gear. Brake fluid is required to be changed every 15,000 miles or 15 months. Carry a jug of coolant, or at least water to be on the safe side. The anti-boil property of Coolant can be put to the test during a long trip up a mountain pass, so making sure the proper mix of Ethylene Glycol to water is just as important in the Summer as it is in the Winter.
• Don’t forget about windshield washer solvent! Bugs on the windshield are tough to remove without cleaner. It’s also a good idea whenever you stop to refuel, that you scrub the windshield at the gas station as well using the fancy tool and the dirty water.
• Make sure you check that the AC is functioning properly before venturing out. While it may have been 60 degrees in Seattle when you left, temperatures in sunny California or even just Eastern Washington may be in the 80’s or 90’s. If you are traveling with a pet this is also very important to be able to control the cabin temperature.
• It goes without saying that if you bring the family dog on the trip you never leave him or her in the car unattended for long, and never without the windows down enough for fresh air. Both you and the dog will need extra water so plan accordingly.

While road trips can be a stressful undertaking, the good news is if you service your Subaru with us, your most likely you are ready to go. However, a quick call or email to see if there was anything we were monitoring on your Subaru, can also go a long way to avoiding surprises.

Remember – if you are due for scheduled maintenance, and if some of that may fall in the middle or end of your road trip, there is no penalty for doing your Subaru maintenance early.

If you are not local to us; hopefully you have a good relationship with Your Subaru service shop, and can obtain that information as well. Below is a link if you need to schedule any service or repair.

Thanks for reading and we wish you safe Summer travels! Here is a money saving offer for you if your do for service on your Subaru and are local to us.

– Joe Malinosky

The post Subaru Driving Tips Summer 2023 appeared first on All Wheel Drive Auto.

In a recent poll, it was found that Washington has the 11th roughest roads in the country; and as avid Subaru drivers, I am sure we will both see and feel these effects. These road hazards really can affect and increase the wear of your Subaru’s suspension system. 

When you look up the definition of Suspension, it states that it is “ a system of tires, tire air,  springs, shock absorbers, linkages and bushings that connects a vehicle to its wheels and allows relative motion between the two, and usually requires the items to be in alignment.” We should always to think of our vehicle’s suspension components as a set of things that are working together, not just individual components. Below are some examples of suspension components, and what their functions are, how we monitor their condition, and when it may be time to replace them.

Struts 

Typically, struts are constructed of a housing to provide structural support for the overall assembly and dampening unit (usually hydraulic). On most struts the bottom of the body attaches to the steering knuckle, which turns to a lower control arm through a lower ball joint. This integral component can affect handling, cornering, acceleration and yes even stopping distance.  

Anytime there are signs of fluid leaking from the Struts they really should be replaced, and other than a break or bend in the strut due to some sort of an accident, Fluid leaks are really the only visual sign indicating a strut replacement is warranted there is. 

From there it’s knowing how the car should perform Vs what it is doing now. These are some but not all of the indications that perhaps your Struts have become weak.

• Does your Subaru make you question your “sea legs” when making a lane change, or seem to sway excessively ?
• When going into or coming out of a corner do you feel safe and stable?
• In a sudden slow down from higher speeds or even low speeds to stop, does the car lean forward aggressively?
• Do you hear excessive noise over bumps or potholes?

Worn Subaru Strut Compared To New One

Leaking Subaru Strut

Bushings

These are usually round “cushions” made of several types of materials, with most common being rubber and polyurethane. They are mounted on vehicle suspension arms/linkages, that help control movement in the joints, absorb road bumps and reduce vibrations and noise. These items are usually installed in metal suspension arms called Front Lower Control Arms, Trailing Arms, Lateral Links, and Upper Control Arms to name a few. 

Besides visually monitoring the health of these items, when these items start to fail, you can usually hear or feel it. Some of things you can experience are the following:

• Your vehicle can make rattling noises when driven over rough or gravelly roads
• Clunks when you make sharp turns or hit the brakes 
• Feel a consistent shimmy or vibration from the front of the vehicle
• Can make the steering feel less responsive or loose

Torn Front Lower Control Arm Bushing

New Vs Old Subaru Suspension Front Lower Control Arm Bushing

Completely failed control arm bushing

Sway Bar & End Links

Also known as a stabilizer or anti-roll bar,  is usually mounted to the lower subframes with rubber bushings, and connects the suspension components on either side of the vehicle through small dog bone shaped items called End Links. These items help minimize body roll, and can make the steering feel “tight”. When failed, you can experience some of the following:

• Popping or knocking noises over bumps, most commonly from the front tire area
• Reduced handling if the end links are broken and no longer attached.

Sway Bar End Link Attached To Rear Lower Control Arm

Front & Rear Sway Bar Removed From Vehicle

Sway Bar Attached To Rear Frame

Tires

Tires and the amount of air in the tires are fundamental parts of the suspension system. Tires are the only part of the vehicle that are supposed to come in contact with the road, as well as being responsible for putting power to the ground, and help be responsible for stopping the vehicle. The easiest way to tell if a tire is bad is to visually inspect it, but can also include experiencing a low to moderate constant vibration, especially at higher speeds. 

• Visually inspect for worn tread depth under 3/32nds
• Uneven tread wear – usually caused by the Alignment of vehicle being out 
• Excessive vibration – when half worn, more material is missing from the tread, indicating the tires should be balanced
• Bulges, blisters, cracks or any interior metal cords showing
• Air pressure problems becoming more frequent
• Age of tires per the DOT number

Tire Gauge Showing Healthy Tire Tread

Measuring Tread Depth On Worn Tire

As always, any replacement of suspension components should start out with an inspection of the suspension system to make sure it is sound. It is possible that one of the suspension components has suffered as a result, and may have caused another item to become weak.  This will ensure your satisfaction with the money spent on enhancing the Subaru’s performance on the road.

Hope this gives you a little more insight into vehicle suspension on your Subaru. 

Whether you need to have your Subaru suspension repaired or inspected, you can do so at either of our locations; Kirkland and Bothell! You can choose which location in the drop down below. 

Thanks for reading.

– Joe Malinosky

The post Subaru Service – About Your Subaru Suspension System appeared first on All Wheel Drive Auto.

For many of us we are watching the traffic return to normal, more people back on the roads, and when the weekend comes, it’s time to be out and about in preparation for the holidays. For some this will also push many of us east, over the mountain passes for some skiing, or escape to some more sun, but we all will probably not escape the cold.  Your Subaru is the perfect vehicle for Winter, let’s get it ready!    

Just like it’s better to disconnect the hose from the spigot at your house before it freezes, it’s really better to service your Subaru prior to it freezing outside. While this season has already brought those temperatures, there really isn’t a wrong time to service your Subaru for Winter.  Be ready, this year has been full of distractions and it will be all too easy to skip this on accident.

This includes

*Testing the Coolant freeze protection level.

*Inspecting the condition of the coolant and cooling system including the PH levels.

*Checking and servicing as needed the engine oil.

*Checking the tires for tread depth and proper air pressure.

*Testing the battery. If its a 2015 and newer model Subaru and its still OE, replace it!

*Inspecting and ensuring all of your Subaru’s lights work so you can be seen in the dark.

*Checking the wipers for smearing, streaks or tears in the blade.

*Inspecting the rest of your Subaru’s vital fluids.

*Inspecting all rubber components including belts and hoses for age and wear.

Depending on how you will use your Subaru this winter, we may want to consider other items.

*Do you need Snow tires?

*Are winter wiper blades a better option for you?

*Do you have any long road trips planned to see family during the holiday season?

*If your Subaru has over 150k, have the hoses and radiator ever been replaced?

Items that seemed to work just fine yesterday, can quickly fail during or after a cold front rolls through, the most common things are weak batteries preventing your Subaru from starting and aged coolant hoses turning into a leak or worse an overheat situation. Understanding where your Subaru needs are ahead of winter is really the best way to get through it.

Keep in mind if you own a Subaru with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System, it’s not uncommon to see the light come on during a cold morning, as the temperature drops so does the tire pressure and it may need to be corrected.

Here are some tips for winter driving in the NW with your Subaru

*Try to have more than ½ a tank of gas as much as possible,  this minimizes condensation in the fuel tank and helps rear traction as well.

*Try not to drive in the snow if your tires have less than 4/32 of tread life remaining.

*When you shut the Subaru off for the night, first turn off your wipers and headlights.

*When you start your Subaru up cold in the morning or after it’s sat for the day, say up at the pass, make sure your wipers are off and the lights are off prior to starting this is not only good for the battery but it also prevents the wipers from becoming damaged.

*If you’re parked for the day and it’s frozen outside, lift your wipers off of your windshield so they don’t freeze to the windshield, be sure to put them back before you drive away.

*Make sure you have an emergency kit in the car especially if you are taking a road trip, this includes a blanket, water and a flashlight.

*Deicer is a great thing to have around this time of year, not only can you use it to deice the window, it can help with frozen door locks and stubborn doors, keeping a can not in your Subaru is the best advice here.

If you own a newer Model Subaru and you are looking for a tire chain alternative you might try the Auto Sock

 Remember after a trip up the pass, or after a lowland snow event it’s very important to wash your Subaru, the chemicals used to deice the roads can be very harmful to your Subaru’s exterior.

Whether you need to have your Subaru winterized or just need an oil change before the weather gets bad, we now have two locations available to serve you; Kirkland and Bothell! You can choose which location in the drop down below.  

– Joe Malinosky

The post Subaru Service, Make Sure Your Subaru Is Ready for Winter 2022 appeared first on All Wheel Drive Auto.

We want to help you get to your destination and back trouble free! Here are some tips to help you have a successful road trip in your Subaru.

• Be sure to check your tires and don’t forget about the spare! Any tire at or below 2/32 of an inch of tread life remaining needs replacement. Make sure your tire pressures are set to correct levels. This is a good idea all year around, but making sure all 5 are set at proper levels before prolonged road time is crucial to safety.
• Rain in Summer can cause more accidents than it does during Winter. This is because the heat of the Summer sun releases oils out of the road materials and onto the road, while the rain makes it that much more slick. This goes back to making sure the tires on your Subaru are in good shape, but even the best tires need a responsive Driver. During the Summer months road construction also increases and you need to be cautious of that when traveling.
• If you don’t know when the last time your Subaru had a wheel alignment, there is no time like the present.
• Check all of your fluids and change as needed! During summer months fluids are at more risk of evaporation and breaking down under extreme temperatures. This can be especially true for brake fluid! If it has collected enough moisture, it can actually boil during heavy brake use, like coming down a mountain pass with a full load of family and gear. Brake fluid is required to be changed every 15,000 miles or 15 months.
• Carry a jug of coolant, or at least water to be on the safe side. The anti-boil property of Coolant can be put to the test during a long trip up a mountain pass, so making sure the proper mix of Ethylene Glycol to water is just as important in the Summer as it is in the Winter.
• Don’t forget about windshield washer solvent! Bugs on the windshield are tough to remove without cleaner. It’s also a good idea whenever you stop to refuel, that you scrub the windshield at the gas station as well using the fancy tool and the dirty water.
• Make sure you check that the AC is functioning properly before venturing out. While it may have been 60 degrees in Seattle when you left, temperatures in sunny California or even just Eastern Washington may be in the 80’s or 90’s. If you are traveling with a pet this is also very important to be able to control the cabin temperature.
• When you begin to pack for your road trip, be sure you don’t overload your Subaru! Be mindful of how the load is being distributed if possible. It’s also a good idea to be sure that you can see out of all of the windows and if not, be comfortable using just the side view mirrors.
• If you are planning on towing anything with your Subaru, please understand just how much, or in reality, how little your Subaru can tow. Keep in mind your passenger & cargo in your Subaru when contemplating how much your going to put in a tow behind trailer.
• If you have a CVT Transmission, and plan on carrying a heavier load, or even doing some lite towing or off-roading, it would be advantageous to the life of the transmission to service the fluid. We are all aware that Subaru CVT’s can be a bit sensitive, and under “normal” service conditions, is not suppose to need service. If you check  your owners manual, there is a “severe service” section that states under towing or off-roading, the fluid should be changed every 24,500 miles.
• It goes without saying that if you bring the family dog on the trip you never leave him or her in the car unattended for long, and never without the windows down enough for fresh air. Both you and the dog will need extra water so plan accordingly.

Remember – if you are due for scheduled maintenance, and if some of that may fall in the middle or end of your road trip, there is no penalty for doing your Subaru maintenance early.

While road trips can be a stressful undertaking, the good news is if you service your Subaru with us, your most likely you are ready to go. However, a quick call or email to see if there was anything we were monitoring on your Subaru, can also go a long way to avoiding surprises.

If you are not local to us; hopefully you have a good relationship with Your Subaru service shop, and can obtain that information as well. Below is a link if you need to schedule any service or repair.

Thanks for reading and we wish you safe Summer travels!

-Joe Malinosky

The post Subaru Summer Driving Tips 2022 appeared first on All Wheel Drive Auto.