All about Chinchilla's

Tigger... The Inspiration

2011-05-04T01:04:00.000-07:00

RIP peace Tigger. Last night a beloved member of the family passed away. Although I am comforted by the fact that he was with his Brother, Mom and Dad at the time, as opposed to the Vet, It is still a very sad time. He was always one of the healthiest Chinchilla's, known for his love for apple branches, Lava Rock Chews, jumping from c...age to cage and up the walls. He was the most shy of the bunch but he always enjoyed a cuddle with his family.
Over the last month, he has had problems with his teeth and to spite the best efforts of our vet, Dr. Upjohn, he is now laying peacefully on my lap as he has been for the past 2 hours.
There are those who think of Chinchilla's as Rodents, but they truly have personalities of their own. I will truly miss Tigger's happy go lucky personality.
To anyone expecting me over the next few day, I apologise for any schedule hiccups that will result. I am now off to my Parents place in Barriere where Tigger will rest among the roses and tulips in my Mom's Garden.
I will always remember the day Tigger was born. We had no idea Aquarius was pregnant when we got her and Gizmo from the SPCA so the sight of his Brother scooter, all wet and tiny in the corner of the room, on a St Patrick's day Morning, was quite a surprise. Once Aquarius realised scooter was safe, Kathy and I watched as Tigger first came to this world. Now he is gone and our lives are richer for knowing him.

Possible Chinchilla Health Issues

2008-07-03T10:06:00.001-07:00

Please remember that, once signs of illness are being shown, chinchillas tend to decline very rapidly. An exotic veterinarian should be contacted regarding all illnesses. If at any time your chin seems listless, lethargic, or depressed or if your chin refuses to move or if movement appears to be painful, seek veterinary care immediately! Below, you will find more common health issues to be aware of if you own or plan to own chinchillas. This information is not to be used in place of veterinary advice.

TEETH

One of the main concerns with chinchillas or any other rodents is the health of their teeth. A rodent's teeth will continue to grow throughout their life span, which is why hay and chewing toys are essential items for your pet. Pine blocks, lava rocks, pumice, and hay are all used to file the teeth. A chinchilla's teeth should be dark orange. If this is not the case, a chin may have a calcium deficiency. With a high quality pellet and hay, this should not become a problem. Cuttlebone and other calcium supplements can be used, should you notice your chin's teeth are yellow or white. Additionally, the teeth are not connected to the jawbone. Rather, they are free floating and are set in the socket with connective tissue. Vitamin C helps to keep this tissue firm. Chewable Vitamin C or rosehips are recommended. Your chinchilla cannot have too much Vitamin C. Just as with humans, chinchillas will absorb as much Vitamin C as they need and pass what they do not need through waste. If this connective tissue becomes loose, tooth spurs may result. Tooth spurs can cause a loss of appetite, abscesses, and, in the worst cases, death. By observing your chinchilla while he eats, you should be able to easily see the warning signs of both tooth spurs and malocclusion. These signs generally consist of eating only half a pellet before dropping it, drooling, swiping at the mouth with front paws, and apparent choking. Watery eyes can also indicate malocclusion, as the roots of the upper molars rub on the back of the eyes. This causes the chinchilla to be in a considerable amount of pain. Malocclusion differs from teeth spurs in that it is when the upper and lower teeth overlap badly. It is sometimes necessary to have a chinchilla x-rayed to properly diagnose spurs and malocclusion. Malocclusion is thought to be a hereditary condition. With malocclusion and teeth spurs, regular teeth filing by a vet is required. Chinchillas with either problem should not be bred, though they can lead nearly normal lives.

CALCIUM

Of course, calcium is necessary for a chinchilla to have healthy teeth. However, too much calcium can be dangerous. Chins should get the required amount of calcium from a healthy diet of pellets and hay. Some chinnies may need an extra boost with an occasional cuttlebone or other calcium supplement. These should be given in moderation and only when necessary. Too much calcium can cause constipation, white deposits in the chin's urine, and bladder stones.

CONJUNCTIVITIS

Conjunctivitis, commonly referred to as "pink eye," can be passed easily between chinchillas and even between species. If you or one of your animals is infected, always wash your hands very thoroughly with hot water and antibacterial soap between contact. Eyes can be flushed with saline solution and a veterinarian can prescribe medication, such as Terramycin.

DIARRHEA

Diarrhea can be a symptom of many things. If you have changed food suddenly rather than gradually, if the chin is under stress (such as with pregnancy), if the chin has an internal parasite, or the chin has spurs or malocclusion, diarrhea can be a sign. If your chin has just started having diarrhea, it is best to have an experienced chin vet look at the animal and take a sample of stool to check for giardia and coccidia. These internal parasites can be cleared up with antibiotics. Your vet should also check your chinnie's teeth. If giardia, coccidia, spurs, or malocclusion are not present, your chinchilla should be given primarily hay and water. It is essential to keep your chin hydrated. You may want to put a bit of Pedialyte into your chin's water for added electrolytes. Treats should not be given, as they may upset the stomach. Charcoal from burnt toast can help to clear the digestive tract and stop the problem. Give a cracker size piece of burnt toast. Shredded wheat can also help. If the diarrhea does not clear up within two to three days, try giving your chin some cherry flavored Kaopectate for children. If the diarrhea does not clear up within a day or two with giving one or two doses of Kaopectate a day, you can try mixing 1/4 teaspoon of Metamucil in with one ounce of yogurt and feeding it to your chin. If the diarrhea still does not clear up within a day or two, your chin should go back to the vet for blood tests. Be sure to weigh your chin daily during this process. Weight loss can affect the over-all health of your chin and should be taken very seriously.

CONSTIPATION

Constipation can usually be diagnosed if your chinchilla has small, hard droppings that are thin and pointy. Additionally, chinchillas tend to pass droppings frequently. Therefore, if this becomes infrequent or if your chin is straining when attempting to pass stool, constipation is generally the cause. This can be caused by dehydration, improper diet (including too many treats), lack of exercise, stress, and even hairballs. Hairballs may be formed by normal grooming or by fur chewing. In cases of hairballs, this may be prevented by occasionally giving your chin dried papaya, fresh pineapple or papaya juice, or papaya enzyme. Petromalt can also be given. However, if you suspect that your chinchilla has a hairball, it is best to see a vet. If none of the most common symptoms of constipation are the cause, a more serious disease, such as kidney failure, may be the cause. Again, seek medical advice as soon as possible.

COPROPHRAGY

Chinchillas produce two types of waste: one for discarding waste and one for eating as a means of reprocessing nutrients. Eating droppings is essential for the health of the chinchilla. This process allows them to keep the bacteria and flora found in the intestines balanced. This balance assists in breaking down foods and is also the chins main source of Vitamin B.

GIARDIA

Chinchillas do have the giardia species in low numbers naturally. However, if a chin is under stress, in a dirty environment, has contaminated water, or has a lowered immune system caused by other illnesses or trauma, these giardia species can grow in number and cause disease. The symptoms can be anything from increased appetite, to decreased activity, diarrhea (or even constipation), and even collapse. In this case, diarrhea tends to be large wet stools that shine with mucous, are very squishy, and tend to be smeared on the surfaces of the cage. Your vet should be able to diagnose giardia with a fresh fecal smear. Treatment is usually recommended to be Flagyl, but it has been found that Albendazole or Fenbendazole work better. Flagyl kills no more than 50% of the parasite and has been implicated in liver failure in chinchillas. Albendozol and Fenbendazole usually kill the parasite after three days of treatment and do not seem to have bad side effects, as it is not absorbed into the blood stream. Albendazole and Fenbendazole sometimes cause a slight loss of appetite, but this passes. During treatment, be sure to keep your chinchilla hydrated and clean the cage often with good disinfectants.

COCCIDIA

Coccidiosis are harder to kill than giardia species tend to be. The symptoms can be weight loss, increased appetite, severe diarrhea accompanied by dehydration, and sometimes even some hidden bleeding. The diagnosis can be made with a fresh sample of feces. There are other tests that can be run as well, if your vet suspects coccidia and cannot spot it under a microscope. Treatment is general done with Sulfonamides. High nutrition foods and fluids are essential to the recovery process, as is the sterilization of the cage and the disposal of wooden houses or other cage accessories that may be harboring the coccidia.

HEART MURMURS

If your chinchilla seems to be getting tired or weak for no reason, you may wish to have your vet check the animal for a heart murmur. If a murmur is found in a young chinchilla, you may consider putting the chin on a combination of Vitamin C and Calcium with Calf Manna mixed into the pellets. If the murmur is found in an adult chinchilla, some people would recommend that you do not breed the animal. Instead, monitor the condition closely and reduce the sweets and fats given to the chin. Provide a low stress environment for your chinnie.

HAIR RINGS

Male chinchillas can suffer from hair rings. Hair rings are caused by fur becoming wrapped around the penis. This fur can tighten and cut off circulation, resulting in a life-threatening situation. Males can be checked for hair rings by extending the penis. This is more easily done by two people, as it can be difficult to properly hold the chin and still have one hand free to perform the check. If a hair ring is found, it may be possible to remove it by gently working it off with your fingers. In more difficult cases, it may be necessary to use water or jojoba oil to help loosen the hair for removal. Excessive cleaning of the genitals may be an indication that a male has a hair ring.

PREGNANCY

A good diet is essential to all chinchillas, but even more important to a pregnant or nursing chinchilla, since their diet is being passed to their babies. Providing high quality pellets and enough fresh timothy and alfalfa hay is very important. We generally give pregnant females a bit of calf manna and extra Vitamin C and cuttlebone, as well. All of these extra vitamins can help greatly. Additionally, we start giving raspberry leaves to pregnant chinchillas approximately a week to two weeks before the expected delivery date. Raspberry leaves help to make the uterine muscles stretch more easily and make birthing less difficult on the female, shortens labor, and helps stop bleeding after birthing. Keep in mind that it can take up to or over 24 hours for milk to initially come in. The pregnant or nursing chin should drink a large amount of water, which will stimulate milk production. If she is not drinking more water than usual, the best thing to do is to mix one half water with one half 100% cranberry or apple juice, with no sugar, vitamins, etc. added. It has been our experience that having this flavored water will generally encourage females to drink more. You can feel to determine whether or not a female has milk.

MASTITIS

Mastitis results in the teat being inflamed with possible swelling, redness, tenderness, and pain. Generally, the signs of mastitis appear three to four days after a female delivers. You may notice that the female runs away from her kits, nips at them when they try to feed, or cries out in pain when contact with the nipple is made. Examination may show broken skin or scabs where the kits have nipped. Mastitis will generally affect only one teat or one side. In total, the female has six teats with three teats on each side. However, these teats generally only produce milk "on demand." Therefore, if there are two kits, only two teats will produce milk. If one of these teats is affected by mastitis, rotating or supplementing the kits may be necessary. Mastitis may also result in infection, though it is easily cured with use of antibiotics prescribed by your vet. Mastitis tends to be reoccurring.

SUPPLEMENTING KITS

If supplementing becomes necessary, a mixture of goat's milk with a very small amount of Karo syrup and a drop of vanilla extract warmed up works well. As with all animals, the mother's milk is best, as it helps build up immunity.

Important Information about Pet store pets

2008-03-30T10:33:00.000-07:00

IMPORTANT: READ THIS BEFORE YOU BUY A PET STORE CHINCHILLA

While looking over the hot searches I ran across the topic of "Deaths at Petco" and it caught my attention. Being an animal lover with 6 PET Chinchilla's who are treated pretty much like royalty with 3 4 foot high interconnected cages and plenty of jumping room I found this article very disturbing. Although there was very little detailed information on how it happened I can only assume Hurley was in a healthy state prior to being brought in for grooming. I did a bit of a google search for "Deaths at Petco" and came up with a few tidbits buried among some dead links. One which was particularly disturbing was a letter from a Petco Employee to Petco Head office outlining various atrocities and animal mistreatment issues at her local Petco. It is quite a lengthy post so I will only post the link http://lou1982.blogspot.com/2007/12/to-whom-it-may-concern.html
It addition I found a post from Hanna in Boulder Co who witnessed some animal cruelty in her local Petco store http://newlyindonesian.blogspot.com/2008/02/i-went-into-petco-yesterday-to-wait-for.html

There was also a blog on the topic of PETA and an investigation they had done at a Petco store. Apparently Petco is now reducing their stock of life animals and replacing them with product. http://critternews.blogspot.com/2008/02/petco-to-decrease-live-animal-inventory.html

Then of course there is a blog about a Chow which was hung to death at a Utah Petco http://mrsanonymous-nain.blogspot.com/2007/12/beware-of-veterinary-malpractice-and.html

I live in Vancouver Canada and there isn't a Petco here, but we do have several Petsmarts as well as Petcetera. Neither of which I would ever support by purchasing animals there. I have seen Chinchilla's placed in small aquariums with bright lights above them and no shelter right by noisy birds. The problem being, chinchilla's are nocturnal and are very freaked out by loud noises.

My suggestion is, if you are looking at purchasing a pet, please check out the SPCA or your local animal rescue first. There are plenty of animals waiting for good homes. Supporting these pet stores by purchasing animals there only proliferates the cruelty. You may think you are saving an animal from a pet store, but the petstores will only bring in more replacements. If the animal becomes popular this will only lead to over crowding.

Here is the original blog which started this quest.

Don't Support Petco by Shopping There
Hello! My name is Hurley and on Saturday, March 22nd, 2008 I was taken into Petco to be groomed. Eight hours later I was dead. My human parents rushed me to an emergency vet hospital where I was drowning from the fluid that was filling my lungs and I was coughing up blood. Two vets consulted with my parents as they did everything they could to save my life. It was determined that they needed to end my suffering and so my parents made the agonizing decision to have me euthanized. Petco wants to pay for my vet bills, but they don't want to show my parents the video of me being groomed. Petco also doesn't feel that they should give my parents a reason as to what happened to me while I was in their care. If you think that this is a rare incident, please Google "animal deaths at Petco" and see the long history that Petco has of animal abuse and neglect. Don't let me die in vain. Please don't support Petco by shopping there.

Are you right for a chinchilla - is a chinchilla right for you?

2008-01-25T11:05:00.000-08:00

So you think a Chinchilla is adorable and you figure one would make a great pet. I would have to say I agree, they are adorable and they do make great pets. The thing is, before jumping into the purchase of a Chinchilla one needs to take their lifestyle and needs into consideration.

1. Chinchilla's spook easily. If you are in a house with Children, barking dogs or general loud noises, a chinchilla probably isn't for you.

2. Chinchilla's are nocturnal. Yes, they sleep during the day and are active at night. If you are bothered by the noise of running exercise wheels and bouncing do not get a Chinchilla.

3. Chinchilla's need space. Particularly vertical space. Do not by any means think a typical rabbit cage or large hamster cage will suffice. Chinchilla's NEED a tall cage to jump around in. Anything else is cruel.

4. Chinchilla's are a long term commitment as they can live up to 20 years. Please do not get a chinchilla if you cannot commit to that length of time. Chinchilla's do not adapt well to change. Giving them up after 5 or 6 years could be devastating for the chinchilla.

5. Yes Chinchilla's look cuddly. Not all Chinchilla's will want to cuddle with humans though. If you are getting a chinchilla for your own selfish cuddling needs.... get a dog instead.

6. Sometimes health issues pop up. If you cannot see forking out a few hundred to a few thousand dollars in vet bills, stay away from Chinchilla's and exotics of any kind. Make sure there is a vet which deals in Chinchilla's in your area.

As you can see, alot goes into having a Chinchilla as a pet (Notice I did not say "Owning a Chinchilla" because, truthfully, they will end up owning you :))

If you have determined you are right for a Chinchilla, take a look at the SPCA or local Chinchilla rescue. Breaders are sometimes cruel to their animals and that type of activity should not be supported. Chinchilla's are very loving creatures, and there are plenty of them in need of good homes.

Diet and Nutrition

2008-01-24T09:01:00.000-08:00

Some valuable information I found on the site of a New Zealand Chinchilla rescue http://www.freewebs.com/nzchinchilla-rescue/dietnutrution.htm

CONTENTS

* Understanding Chinchillas & Diet

    Amounts & What to Look At

    Daily Diet Percentage

    Consideration & Thought
    Pellet Types

* Chinchillas & Calcium

    How Calcium is Absorbed

    To Make Sure Your Chinchilla Will Benifit from the Calcium it is Given

* Healthy Supplements & Treats, Percentages

* Safe & Non Safe Woods & Chews
* Guaranteed
Analysis & Ingredients of Pellet Types

* A - Z Ingredient Terms
* Leave your Comments or Questions

Understanding Chinchillas & Diet

Whether people know, do not want
to know, realise it or not, most problems and illnesses that the
domestic chinchilla will suffer from is indirectly or directly caused by
dietary influences. Chinchillas
have
evolved and adapted to deal with a diet completely different from a
Rabbit and a Bird, Guinea Pig and other rodents, and so care must be
taken NOT
to feed Chinchillas
on another animals diet such as rabbit and/or guinea pig pellets which
is
quite common even with breeders sadly, but there is a warning with
doing that and consequences many people end up ignoring either because
of Lack of knowledge or not caring.

Many chinchilla owners
say that they cannot get their chinchilla to eat proper designed chinchilla
pellets, and so turn to mixed food, rabbit or guinea pig pellets. Please remember that chinchillas DO NOT
have a gall bladder so these foods are very unhealthy for them, causing so
many major problems either sooner or later, even without your knowledge if you
do not know what to look for, so it is very easy to say nothing is wrong, than
something is wrong.

The Main diet such as
pellets is the wrong place to take short cuts or the cheaper option as it is
called, if money is an issue DO NOT get a Chinchilla! Chinchillas
are complete junk addicts, very
much like so many of us with Takeout or Chocolate over broccoli, they
are abit like our Children you have to step in and give them what is
good for them not what they want (imagin the everyday Christmas Kids
would have if we did not), so Chinchillas are no different and
WILL stuff themselves with food that tastes nice or anything other than
Chinchilla Pellets, as chinchillas have NO regard to it's nutritional content, you
do not see them running to see what nurtition is in the food which is something to
keep in mind. This can be frustrating
for the person making an effort in making a healthy life for the Chinchilla! Some rescues, I have spent months trying to
change their food over to proper chinchilla Pellets, but eventually it gets
done by persistence and the thought of what I would rather for their health.

Avoid ALL seeds, they are high in fats and oils, TAKE them out if they are in the Pellets no questions asked.
Again chinchillas do not have a gall bladder and cannot
deal with the fat efficiently. This can lead to
conditions such as fatty liver disease which is eventually fatal. Many people add seeds i.e. bird mixes, or
seeds similar.

Chinchillas
in the wild will eat a variety of dry plants, dry shrubs and dry grasses.
They will consume (all dry not fresh) stalks, stems, leaves, shoots, fruits of
a certain cacti, seeds, bark of particular bushes and shurbs, and roots, depending on what time of year it is, but all of
this is from plants that will not grow at our 'normal level', nor will they grow just anywhere, something to keep in mind if you decide that you can feed your Chinchilla 'what you want'.
I have gone into their Wild Diet more, and also included photos of their
natural habitat under The Chinchilla.

I will also go through this in the Teeth section. Chinchillas
have 20 teeth, which all grow continuously throughout the life of a
chinchilla so chinchillas require food (such as good quality chinchilla pellets. Rabbit pellets are to soft for chinchillas) that
are hard and need allot of chewing, just as they would receive all the time in
their Wild Habitat. A diet that is too low in fibre and/or high in protein
(or equal amounts of Fibre and Protein) will not only eventually cause Liver
Failure and deficiencies, but will also result in the teeth not getting worn
down correctly, then problems will start.

Their
digestion is not very good at coping with rich foods, therefore treats need to
be kept to a strict minimum, or none at all.

Amounts & What to Look At

This really depends on age and the Chinchilla, chinchillas that
are very active will need more. Young
Chinchillas especially weaning ones will gorge like no tomorrow forcing health
problems and bad habits including behavioural problems such as using food as
security, so you want to be very strict.
Just observe your Chinchilla for a few weeks and see what the eating
habits are like or better yet find out from the people you are getting the chin from, and most importantly keep an eye on weight if they are not
eating that much and examine them regularly.

A normal healthy chinchilla that is not pregnant,
growing, recovering or sick, need about 2 tablespoons per Chinchilla, of good quality
Chinchilla Pellets a day. Pellets need
to be replaced by fresh pellets every day, to also avoid
deficiencies. It also helps to have a certain amount there as
you can then notice if a Chinchilla is ‘off’ it’s food. If the bowl is empty the next time you feed
it then you are not giving enough (keep in mind Females Seasons, Pregnancies
and Temperatures, babies or young ones that they are not gorging), so add a little more pellets to the usual amount you give,
but again be careful for young chinchillas.
If there are pellets left the next time you feed it then you are giving
too much, so cut back a little. Remember Chinchillas will not eat all
of their food at once, but over the day and night, they only eat until they are
full.

Look
for a very low protein, very high fiber content and a Vitamin A content of
roughly 14000iu/Kg (and no more). Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin, and
excessive levels can cause liver damage, remember what else you are feeding and
their possible levels as it all adds up. Please also check the expiry date on any
pellets and other things you buy for your chinchilla as Vitamin A degrades
quickly in storage, losing allot of its activity in a short amount of time, why
you should also ask or stay away from Vitamin products on special because of
expiries (products, depending, have a 3 month safety margin after the expiry
date as precaution, BUT this is still no good for Chinchillas). Vitamin
A will oxidize, the chinchilla’s body tries to remove this oxidized form from
its body, putting a high amount of stress on its body internally, which can
cause "yellow-fat disease".
This is a metabolic disease, which also has other causes like from
feeding to much protein. Store chin
pellets in a cool dry place to prevent oxidization of the Vitamin A, do NOT freeze, this is not dry unless you can freeze dry, the fridge is recommended.

Remember that
chinchillas will eat slightly less in the Summer, but more at Winter, Growth, Breeding
time, Pregnancy and Nursing.

HAY MUST be fed along with
the pellets every day. A good handful once a day
is enough per Chinchilla. It is very
important to change the Hay once a day and scrape up as much as the ‘old’ stuff
as you can, as moldy hay can lead to tummy upsets and fur fungus, so clean
up any discarded hay regularly.

Hay
provides a little bit of relief from stress, boredom (see ‘Fur Chewing’ in ‘Health’ for use of
it), excellent roughage, essential and properly balanced Vitamins and Minerals,
helps to break down other foods and aids the Chinchillas in the digestive
process, so it is an essential part of the diet. Hay must NOT be Fresh or ‘young' because this can
cause bloat (for this reason also to stay away from Grass and all Greens/Vegetables),
so the Hay should be allowed to ‘cure’ for about 5 months after harvest before
been fed to any chinchilla, and also look out for weevils. They do not harm the chin but take Nutrients
out of the Hay. Feed Hay within a year
of harvest to preserve the natural nutrients, any older and you can run into
problems like Diarrhoea and Deficiencies.
It must not be stored in plastic as mould will form. Machine or fast-dried
Hay is the best, the nutritional content in this way is improved, speak with a
farmer or if going to a Pet Store, request and ask questions.

Daily Diet
Percentage

This is the percentage of what a chinchilla’s daily
diet SHOULD be:

FATS & OIL - 3.5%

SUGAR – 4%

PROTEIN - 14%

FIBRE - 21.5%

Vitamin D - 32.400

Vitamin A - 14.000

Vitamin E – 80

IMPORTANT:
As you can see, seeds and Nuts (refer to “Suggestions for Healthy Supplements
& Treats”) are over 20% Fats & Oil,
but chins can ONLY have 3.5%, so imagine what
it is doing to them. Things like Millet
is also a big NO but many people including breeders feed it, it has 46%
Fats and Oils, Protein is also quite high in these ranging from 18% - 48%,
when a daily intake of Protein is only meant to be 14%. Remembering again about the Pellets and Hay
which will already be between 10% - 14% depending on brand.

Consideration &
Thought

Please
think before you
feed, EVERYTHING you feed your chinchilla
adds up it cannot be stressed enough, the ‘odd’ Raisin here and there – 70%
sugar compared to 4% in the daily intake, the odd Wheatbix here and there.

So
many say ‘but it is not much’ mostly because of how tiny the Raisin is in
appearance, it is very deceiving, it is what is in the foods not how small the food is. IT DOES add onto what is already in the
Pellets and Hay. Please look and think.

Proper
commercial designed Chinchilla Pellets and good Hay is all that is needed for a
chinchilla. As I said in another topic,
if a Chinchilla is Healthy extra nutrition is not needed, ONLY in times of
pregnancy, stress, sickness, growth and at a older age.

Pellet Types

I will say it
again, always feed proper Chinchilla Pellets (not Pet Shop mixes they make up)
never feed rabbit pellets, they have the wrong nutritional balance and since
rabbits are not even Rodents, they are completely different. There are
chinchilla pellets available on the market. The damage they cause to a
chinchillas insides, mostly Liver is not worth it, turning from damaging to
failure. I have dealt with so many cases
of Liver Failure it is saddening.
Depending on the Chinchilla it can happen at any time, and every case I
have dealt with all the people did not know their chinchilla or breeding
stock had it, an interesting issue to keep in mind. Rabbit Pellet feeding has been linked to:
small babies, less or no milk, deficiencies, behavioural problems, teeth
problems, heart failure, calcium excretion, still births, other organ failure, intestinal
problems, short life just to name a few.

;Here are photos
of different Pellets to show examples.
Good Quality, proper Chinchilla Pellets are Dark, the lighter the Pellet the less suitable it is for Chinchillas and should be avoided i.e. as you can see from the Rabbit Pellets pictured. The Complete/Mixed Food as you can just has a treat bonanza, treats are
meant as a occasional thing, been in a daily food does not make sense and will
eventually cause a mount of problems like fatty liver disease (hepatic
lipidosis), seizures, prolapsed intestine, deficiencies to name some. It also causes the Chin to become a selective a
feeder, this WILL happen, where the chin picks out all the treats,
eventually not eating all of the Pellets.
Proper plain commercial chinchilla pellets has everything that a Chinchilla
needs, since Chinchillas have a very special diet in the wild, straight Pellet
chinchilla food is especially made to even deal with pregnant or nursing needs,
there is no need for extras in the Pellets.

Good Quality Pellets - Nice and dark,          Complete Food, the coloured bits and            Rabbit/Guinea Pig Pellets - you can
simple, yet has EVERYTHING they                seeds are rubbish food, banana chips see there is nothing good in these just
need, you know it is getting just that            are occasional treats so why are they             by the apparence of them, compared                                              in a daily food? - An OK Pellet          to the Pellets made for Chinchillas.

Chinchillas & Calcium

Something I want to cover
briefly in the beginning of this is Calcium with Fits and Seizures. These are not necessarily because they need
Calcium, in the Health section I will go over the types and causes. In fact, if you are over doing the Calcium or
if it is not correct for chinchillas they may have them (depending on the
Chinchilla), also hereditary or genetic issues may be there, something you will
have to look into strictly. I will go over
briefly how Calcium is absorbed in this section.

In order for a Chinchilla
to have Healthy teeth and bones, the Calcium to Phosphorous in their diet needs
to be either 2:1, or equal parts.

You do not have to give
extra Calcium if your Chinchilla is healthy, it is a choice BUT a choice
you should have much thought in, as there are guide lines and points to follow
and to understand before attempting to give a Chinchilla extra Calcium.

Proper dedicated
commercial Chinchilla pellets are designed for these specific needs also, they
are nutritionally balanced and along with Hay which is already naturally
calcium to phosphorous balanced, is enough for a healthy chinchilla. A healthy chinchilla on this diet does not
need extra Calcium/supplements unless breeding, nursing, growth, sickness,
recovery etc, then they may need a little extra once to twice a week
supplementation.

If Calcium is just given
alone i.e. in the form of a Calcium block, Tablets etc, some still find their
Chinchillas are still getting teeth problems.
Again, if the calcium to phosphorous is not right, or to much
calcium is given (done very easily by giving supplements and calcium 3 or more
times a week and giving a wrong balance i.e. licks, blocks), it will just be expelled
by the body (magnesium imbalances cause calcium excretion also), if to much
Calcium is absorbed then allot of Calcium is removed, so you are in fact doing
the opposite of what you are trying to achieve!
A common sign of excretion is Calcified Urine, the shelves or litter,
dried Urine will appear ‘white’, the two photos below are an example of Calcified Urine:

Calcified Urine on News Paper, I have circled in pink where this is. Calcified Urine on Wood

Things like cuttlefish are
a very low dose of calcium and phosphorous, next to nothing in it so you are
safe with leaving that in the cage all the time, not only that it is perfect
for the teeth and back molars as it does not splinter like wood.

How Calcium is Absorbed

In basic, Calcium needs to
be ingested in an ionic form and also have phosphorous, vitamin D and D3
so it can be fully absorbed. Vitamin D
and D3 assists with absorbing Calcium through the intestinal wall into the
bloodstream, then to the bones.
That is
why you have to be careful what kind of Calcium is given and how it is given. Just because a product, Vet or reputable Pet Shop
says it is fine, does not mean it is, look into it and if you are unsure leave
it.

Bones cannot hold onto
extra Calcium, so daily calcium supplementation of any kind will confuse the body’s
system, again if lots of calcium is absorbed then lots is removed and can cause
a number of problems, with or without you knowing. Sadly in NZ most is without the person knowing.

Salt is a must to avoid
but it is also essential. It is already
in your chinchilla pellets and everything else you feed them, good quality
Chinchilla pellets already have enough salt so there is no need to add Salt and
Licks/Blocks of any kind. The down side and
risk of adding salt is it also causes calcium excretion (as explained above and below), leading to loss of bone density, cramps and other related calcium
deficiency problems.

To make sure your Chinchilla will
benefit from the calcium it is given

Stay away from phosphorus in phytate form,
i.e. Cereal products, Peanuts. This binds the calcium, preventing absorption.

Ensure that a chinchillas diet is correctly calcium
to phosphorus balanced, in the CORRECT BALANCE TOGETHER with Vitamin D,
D3, C and A and magnesium, very easily and simply done by sticking to Hay
and proper commercial dedicated Chinchilla Pellets, NOT mixed
Chinchilla food, rabbit or guinea pig pellets.

Give calcium supplement ONLY once to twice a week
(at the most) and ONLY if needed i.e. pregnancy, nursing, growth, and DO
NOT give any Calcium every day unless there is a medical reason in which
then should only be advised by a Vet.

Ensure any supplements are CORRECTLY balanced
for a chinchilla, not things that are for other animals i.e. Birds, Rats,
Rabbits, even check supplements that say are for chinchillas, make sure
they are also not made/put together by a Pet Shop regardless.

Keep the diet basic and watch treats,
supplements and other things (be strict as above) and keep the Salt to a
minimum avoiding Salt Licks/Blocks, your chinchilla may love these, but
remember salt is already in and added in EVERYTHING you feed to your
chinchilla, to much, it can cause loss of bone density and other related
calcium deficiency problems that can mimic symptoms of teeth problems i.e.
watery eyes.

Make sure you replace the Pellets and Hay Daily
with FRESH, and that the Pellets are well within the expiry date, are not
expired or close to expiry.

Healthy Supplements & Treats, Percentages

* Introduce all new foodstuff including treats very
slowly *

These are only some just
to give you something, do not think that all herbs and Natural foods are
suitable as they are not. Just because a
Chinchilla eats it, does not mean it is safe.
Again Chinchillas are complete Junk Addicts and love food, regardless of
whether it be good for them or not.

* Marshmallow Root A favourite with Chinchillas! Be warned
though this has a high amount of Vitamin A, but also has a high amount of
Vitamin B and thiamine which Chinchillas need. It is not only a tasty
treat but also can be used as a supplement for the respiratory system and
digestive tracts. A small piece once to twice a fortnight is enough.
For Chinchillas that have respiratory, kidney, other tract problems twice a
week until progress is made is fine. Perfect for females who have delivered as
it also soothes inflamed tissue, and it also has a natural calming affect which
can be great for stress or shock.

* Natural Liqourice Root This is something about only half the
Chinchillas like, it is very rich in nutrients so care must be taken to only
feed no more than 2 inches long once a week. But it is a very fibrous and
tough the serves the teeth as well as the digestive, nervous system, also great
for Ulcers and the stomach!

* Dried Herbs Depending on the herb and again the
Chinchilla, so check the suitability of them BEFORE feeding it. A good
pinch a few times a week per Chinchilla is fine. Some are a great source
of vitamins and minerals and are full of phyto-nutrients. To name some
and their benefits. For detoxing (great for after surgery): Dandelion,
Restharrow root, Cornflower petals or Nettles. For Heart and circulation:
Rosemary leaves, Raspberry leaves, Yarrow, Cornflower, or Marigold (also good
for Urine detox). For Diarrhoea: Blackberry Leaves. Remember that
these are just some herbs, and some of what they do for your chinchilla, some
have more than one benefit.

* Apple Tree Twigs with bark on before giving to a Chinchilla they should
first be prepared, clean them in warm water and then put in a oven to be ‘baked’, this kills off any bugs/larvae
and any live bacteria (leave the bark on).
Like anything that is
put for a Chinchilla to have must not be treated, glued or sprayed etc.
The Bark is safe so allow them to eat it, this is a excellent tasty fibrous
treat that keeps the back molars down, and they also have to ‘work’ for their treat and it resembles
closely to their natural diet and behaviour that they do in the wild. A
twig or two daily is fine to give, great Natural treat! See “Safe & Non Safe woods &
Chews”
for list of other woods and Chews, safe or toxic.

* Alfalfa Hay - Very high in calcium
and phosphorous and other nutrients, it is a tasty and healthy treat, but to
rich to be given regularly, so once to twice a week is plenty, but this also
depends on the individual but must be kept away from babies.

* Dried Rose Hips - A excellent daily
treat that is full of fibre and not harsh on the digestive as it is not
rich. One once a day is safe, great for teeth and keeps them amused for a
while!

* Mountain Ash Berries - Another
excellent treat that is very healthy and perfect for the teeth as well.
With Chinchillas that have sensitive digestive systems just feed one once a
week.

* Human Food - Once again, although
chinchillas LOVE biscuits and cereals etc, please use your common sense when
feeding them. Biscuits are extremely high in fat and sugar, and you are
not doing your chinchilla any favours if you feed them regularly. Some
sugar-coated cereals should be avoided too.

* Other suitable treats Raisins
(once a week if that), Banana chips (once a week to once a fortnight), Porridge
Oats (once a week), small piece of Apple (ONLY once a fortnight at the least to
once a month). Dried and unsweetened Papaya and Pineapple are very useful
in dealing with and also preventing fur balls. In them, they contain
small amounts of the enzyme papain which can help digest the fur in the
stomach. Be warned to only feed these sparingly if NOT at all and
keep an eye on the Sugar and Salt content of all treats given, remember that
everything soon adds up, and Chinchillas can get diabetes and other problems
from Sugar and Salt. Also these kinds of treats are abit to harsh
for their digestives, and you might have to deal with constipation or diarrhoea
or worse, Prolapsed Intestines. So these are best used as a remedy or for
mothers to be or mothers, or illnesses. Here is a sugar percentage to
give you a idea showing the sugar content of some dried fruits, again it is
best to look at the nutritional content of any treat for Salts, Sugar, Fats and
Oils before feeding as these are Warnings in a chinchillas diet:

- Banana chips 23%

- Raisins 70%

- Dates 60%

- Apple 37%

- Dried pineapple 86%

- Dried papaya 64%

Here is also the Fat
content in some Nuts and seeds which may be fed, but for very good reasons I
personally do not feed Sunflower seeds, Millet or Nuts, good advice I would
stay AWAY from these. For one, they are to high in Fats and Oils, this is far
to harsh for their delicate systems even as a occasional treat. Also as I
have said before they don't have a gall bladder so the liver has to work over
time, why they also MUST stay away from Raw hide (which is a meat product
anyway, Chinchillas are strictly herbivores!), Rabbit or guinea pig pellets.
This very delicate system is a good thing to keep in mind when choosing what
they have to eat both treat and main:

- Peanuts 52%
- Walnuts 68%
- Cashew Nut 50%

- Hazelnut 63%

- Pinenuts 69%

- Sunflower seed 47.5%

- Sesame Seed 57%

- Almonds 57%

- Brazil Nut 68%

- Millet 46%

Things like treat sticks,
either herb sticks or calcium sticks can be fed but are not the best and are
just that, unhealthy treats. They have the right amount of Calcium to
Phosphorous and other good nutrients but they do have extra sugars, salts,
other rubbish, seeds (as above, fats and oils), and are more just Junk to a
chinchillas diet. If they are fed they should be done so sparingly at one
stick over a 3 week period (depending, some chinchillas love them and will
gobble them up to fast), once every 2 -3 months and NO OTHER treats or
supplements should be fed.

* AVOID Green food such as Fresh Grass, Broccoli,
lettuce, cabbage, these foods are toxic for a Chinchillas system and have
caused Bloat, so they SHOULD NOT BE FED AT ALL! Other foods to STAY AWAY
from are other Veggies like carrots, peas, corn. Even dried corn, I know
many feed them and even books suggest them but they are a big NO NO!

* Mineral Blocks and Salts This is not necessary, as said their pellets
contain everything they need. If these are added to your chinchilla’s
diet be warned that they can cause fits and seizures, loss of bone density,
Heart failure, excessive calcium excretion leading to calcium
deficiencies. Even for pregnancy a supplement will already be given
so the mineral blocks and salt is not needed.

Going back to the
Chinchillas simple diet of proper commercial designed Chinchilla Pellets and
Hay, this contains everything that is required for a Chinchilla, if these are
fed then there will be no ill affects on their Health. Prevention is
always better with Chinchillas, they are not as tough as what people may think,
they are very good at hiding things and will seem normal and healthy if not
enough is known no matter what has been read or said. It can very easily
slip past no matter what the issue.

Here is a supplement
recipe that can be fed at one teaspoon ONCE A WEEK ONLY and only if
needed. This recipe is a completely balanced supplement:

Recipe no. 3 (provided by Debbie on CU).

1kg rolled oats

1kg wheat germ

1kg wheat bran

250g rye flakes

250g barley flakes

250g wheat flakes

250g quinoa flakes

150g golden linseed

15g calcium powder

10g "Arkvits" multivitamin & mineral supplement

Handful of dried nettles

IMPORTANT NOTE: Like I have said, if treats are fed even healthy ones, they should be done so
very sparingly with supplements. NZ does not have arkvits, so see a Exotics Specialist Vet for a
suitable multivitamin and mineral supplement. Check that the Vitamins,
calcium to phosphorous is correctly balanced and NOT out of Date.

Safe
& Non safe Woods & Chews

WOODS
THAT ARE NOT SAFE

All Stone
Fruit such as Peach, Apricot, Plum etc

Cashew

Birch

Cedar
(including litter cedar shavings)

Cherry

All
Citrus woods such as orange, grapefruit, lemon or lime (and stone)

Elderberry
bushes

Chestnut

Ebony

Box Elder

Sandalwood

Hydrangea

Eucalyptus

Spruce

Fir

Aralia Spinosa (Other names are devil's walking
stick or Hercules’ club)

Juniper

Greenheart

FRESH
CUT Pine or Pinecones

Beech

Yew


Oak (Bark
is safe and is used in remedies and as a treat)

Teak


Walnut

Iornwood

Rosewood


Black locust (Bean Shell is safe)

Ginko

Maple

Blackwood

Almond

Myrtle


Mahogany

Wenge


Cherry

Blackwood

Chinese Snake Tree

Cypress

Tallow

Chestnut

Limetree

Sycamore

OTHER TOXIC WOODS ARE MAN-MADE BOARD’S such as
Chipboard, Plywood, Block board, Fibreboard, Hardboard, Stirling board

WOODS THAT ARE SAFE

Cottonwood

Apple


Willow (BUT stick with Goat, Weeping or Pussy Willow)

Pear                                                                                                                            Mulberry


Crab-apple

Hazelnut

Elm


Araucariaceae

Rosaceae


Dogwood rose (dried rosehips are healthy
daily treats too!)

Chinese
Dogwood

Horse
Apple

Kiwi


Pine (kiln dried &
untreated with preservatives etc)

Pine
Cones that have been opened free of seeds, washed, baked and dried

Alderberry

Bamboo


Grape


Manzanita


Hawthorn


Magnolia


Pecan

These are safe BUT must be
untreated, organic, fungicide & insecticide free, and NOT glued,
stained or painted with ANYTHING!

IMPORTANT: I have also been told and
researched that these have been trialled and tested, so with that I hope no one
will use the not safe wood.

Personally I only stick to Apple,
Hazel, and untreated Pine (this for shelving).
I used to give Willow but I found myself with my
own chinchillas and rescues that Apple twigs/branches and Hazel is preferred
over it. In my own research, I found the
best time to get Hazel twigs / branches are before Mid Summer, for some reason
the Chinchillas seem to love it more at this time!

Apple twigs can also be used as a
daily treat with the Bark left on (the Bark part been the treat). To prepare
it wash them in warm water and then sun dry them for a day. After this you then put in a home oven to be
‘baked’ at 300 F (150 degrees C), this kills off any bugs/larvae and any live
bacteria, micro organisms in the wood. Watch that you do not to overdo the drying
process, drying it so much that the bark cracks and falls off, and also that you do not burn it. It is ok but not very enjoyable by the poor
Chin! Think of it as you eating burnt
toast.

Be Warned about wood used for
bedding, Cedar is
a common bedding and so are others that have “odour-reducing",
these are dangerous for Chinchillas, mice have even been known to die with
Cedar bedding. To many people do assume,
if there is a item in reputable pet shop that is been sold or/and it is widely
marketed, that it is safe for their pet.
This is not the case at all.
Items like Cedar (other wood that is not safe) can cause death or
suffering, with or without you knowing.
If a Chinchilla does survive it can get Brain Damage, Eye Disorders, Rashes, Respiratory
Problems, Liver Failure just to name a few.
People have also mistaken other symptoms for Dental problems, as Cedar (as
with other woods & bedding) can make the eyes watery, loss of appetite and
lose weight, even if the Chinchilla does not come into contact with it i.e. if
the Bedding is under a wire bottom out of reach.

PLEASE
NOTE: Watery eyes and other signs like this can mean a number of things
other than bedding or Dental, it could also mean a allergy or deficiency of
some kind, which will be in “Health, symptoms, possible causes, prevention
& cures”.

MORE CHEWING
HARZARDS IN OR OUT OF THE CAGE (please just use common sense): Electrical Wires, commercial Cardboard i.e.
scented toilet rolls, glue in some packing boxes etc, Cloth that strings,
Medicated Anti-Fungal Powder i.e. used for fur fungus in dust but while dusting
and after can get on chew toys, food etc so only use “Mycota” and only if
necessary (also see “Health, symptoms, possible causes, prevention & cures”)
and keep away from chew toys etc, Talcum Powder i.e. some put this in the dust
bath so I warn that this is a ‘respiratory irritant’, House Plants, Plastics.

OTHER
SAFE CHEWS: Cuttle Fish, Cholla, this is a dried cactus, great
for chinchillas also a treat, similar to what Cactuses they would chew on in
the wild but sorry NZ cannot get these unless it is one piece on a Bird Toy sold in Pet Shops, Pumice Stones, Mineral Stones OR
Calcium Blocks that have Phosphorous but watch how much and what it contains,
please see ‘Chinchillas and Calcium’ and ‘Diet & Nutrition’ about those
two, also Hay Cubes which sorry we don’t get in New Zealand.

These Safe Chews do not splinter like wood, I am
afraid with wood there is a chance of that, so try to provide lots more of
these kinds of Chews. Chinchillas that
already have teeth problems are best to stay away from woods (not the Barks,
they are fine) and kept to these types of Chews. Quality Chinchilla Pellets and Hard Treats
like Rose Hips naturally keep teeth warn down while eating.

Guaranteed Analysis & Ingredients Of Pellet

Types

Kaytee
Forti-Diet Chinchilla

Guaranteed Analysis
Moisture (max) 12.0%

Crude Protein (min) 18.0%

Crude Fat (min) 3.0%

Crude Fiber (max) 17.0%

Ingredients

Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Dehulled Soybean Meal,
Ground Oats, Ground Wheat, Ground Corn, Wheat Middlings, Dicalcium Phosphate, Dried Beet Pulp, Corn Oil, Dried Cane Molasses,
Wheat Germ Meal, Salt, DL-Methionine, Calcium Carbonate, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Magnesium
Oxide, Vitamin A Supplement, Choline Chloride, L-Lysine, Riboflavin (source of Vitamin B2), Ferrous
Carbonate, Ethoxyquin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Zinc Oxide, Manganous Oxide, Niacin,
Copper Oxide, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (source
of vitamin K activity), Cholecalciferol (source of vitamin
D3), Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Biotin, Folic Acid, Calcium Iodate, Cobalt
Carbonate, Sodium Selenite.

Vitakraft Chinchilla Pellets

Guaranteed Analysis

Crude Protein: 14.4% (Min.)

Crude Fat: 2.5% (Min.)

Crude Fiber: 20.5% (Max.)

Ash: 11.0% (Max.)

Moisture: 11% (Max)

Calcium: 1.1%

Phosphorus: 0.50%

Ingredients
Alfalfa
Meal, Oat Bran, Coarse Sunflower Meal, Wheat Bran, Corn Gluten, Sugarcane
Molasses, Coarse Rape Seed Meal, Calcium Carbonate, Retinylacetate (source of
Vitamin A), Dihydroxycholecalciferol (source of Vitamin D3, DL-a-Tocopherol
acetate (source of Vitamin E), Thiamine Monocitrate (source of Vitamin B1),
Riboflavin (source of Vitamin B2), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of Vitamin
B6), Cobalamine (source of Vitamin B12), Menadion (source of Vitamine K),
Nicotinic Acid, Panthotenic Acid, Folic Acid, Biotin, Copper Sulphate, Zinc
Sulphate, Mangan (II) Oxide, Iron Oxide, Calcium Iodide, Cobalt Iodide, Sodium
Selenite.

LM Chinchilla Food, Clasic Blend

Guaranteed Analysis

Crude Protein: 17% (Min.)

Crude Fat: 2.5% (Min.)

Crude Fiber: 18% (Max.)
Moisture: 11% (Max)

Ingredients
Dehydrated
Alfalfa Meal, Ground Oats, Ground Wheat, Soybean Meal, Linseed Meal, Dried
Whey, Dried Skimmed Milk, Maize Distillers Dried Grains with Solubles, Cane
Molasses, Sucrose, Wheat Middlings, Brewers Dried Yeast, Dextrose, Calcium
Carbonate, Calcium Phosphate, Meat and Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Blend of Animal
Fat and Vegetable Oil (Preserved with BHT and
Stabilized with Citric Acid), L-Lysine, dl Methionine, Choline Chloride,
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Fermentation Extract, Lactobacillus Acidophilus,
Vitamin A Acetate in Gelatin, d-Activated Animal Sterol (source of Vitamin D3),
Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (source of Vitamin K Activity), Calcium
Pantothenate, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Biotin, Niacin, Riboflavin, d-Alpha
Tocopheryl Acetate (source of Vitamin E), Vitamin b12 Supplement, Folic Acid,
Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochioride, Ethoxyquin (A Preservative),
Ground Limestone, Salt, Potassium Sulfate, Calcium Propionate (A preservative),
Lecithin, Manganese Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Oxide, Cobalt
Carbonate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite, Vegetable Oil, Natural and
Artificial Flavors, and Colour.

Important Note & Tip: Chinchillas are strict herbivores, things like Animal Fat, Fish, Meat and Bone Meal are one thing that should NOT be added to a Chinchilla Food! This is something important to look at when trying to decide what Pellet to feed. Another one that should not be added is Salt. Salt is already added in other things in the Ingredients.

Chinchillas
are not capable of digesting Sugar, breeders of all people should know this yet
they feed their chins Raisins, Banana chips, Pet Shop made Chinchilla
supplement, Apple and other foods inappropriately designed for chins and high
in sugar, weekly, and encourage this. Just
because it is fed does not mean it is good for them, and just because other
Rodents eat it does mean it is good for Chinchillas. Please pay attention
and read up, there is allot of misleading and improper info out on chins which
takes up most of the chin world.

A - Z Ingredient Terms

Alfalfa
Meal

Alfalfa meal is the finely ground product of the alfalfa
plant.

There are anti-nutritional factors (natural toxins) in
alfalfa-saponins, tannins and coumestral. Saponins have
a bitter taste and will irritate the lining of the mouth
and intestine. Alfalfa meal use in sow diets has declined
due to the possible effects of coumestral on reproductive
performance. Alfalfa meal also contains tannins. Tannins
and trypsin inhibitors bind proteins and inhibit protein
digestion.

Animal
By-Product Meal
Ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcass of slaughtered
mammals, including animal tissues, hair, hoof, horn, hide
trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents.

Animal
Fat

May come from mammals or poultry.

Animal Protein Products
This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Animal products (meat solubles, blood meal)

Marine products (fish meal)

Milk products (whey, casein).

Ascorbic acid

A synthetic form of Vitamin C.

BHA, BHT

BHA and BHT are both preservatives. BHA is butylated hydroxyanisole.
BHT is butylated hydroxytolune. Both have been associated
with liver damage, fetal abnormalities and metabolic stress,
and have a questionable relationship to cancer.

Beet
Pulp

Beet pulp is the dried residue of sugar production from
sugar beets. Dried beet pulp is commonly used in dairy
feeds plus dog and other fur bearing animal feeds. It
has 18-21 % crude fiber and 8 % crude protein.

Biotin

A natural B complex vitamin. Biotin functions as a coenzyme
for carbon dioxide transfer and hence is essential to
fat and carbohydrate metabolism. D-Biotin is a synthetic
form.

Brewers
Dried Yeast

The dried non-fermentative, non-extracted yeast of the
botanical classification Saccharomyces resulting as a
by-product from the brewing of beer and ale. It must contain
not less than 35% protein.

Calcium
carbonate

A natural form of calcium.

Calcium
pantothenate

A high potency, synthetic source of vitamin B5.

Choline
Chloride

Generally classified as a B-complex vitamin (referred
to as vitamin B4 in some publications), choline influences
the metabolism of carotene and vitamin A in animals.

Corn

Unspecified corn product. Not a complete AAFCO definition.

Corn
Gluten Meal

Corn gluten meal is the by-product of the manufacture
of corn syrup or starch. It is made up of the dried residue
after the bran, germ and starch have been removed. Corn
gluten meal has 60% crude protein which is comparable
to soybean meal. The nutritional problems with corn gluten
feed and meal is the same as those in whole corn. It is
deficient in lysine and can be contaminated with mycotoxins.

D-activated

Plant or animal sterol fractions
which have been vitamin D activated by ultra-violet light
or by other means (chemical).

D-Alpha Tocopheryl
Acetate

Natural
Vitamin E. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, which is
stored in the liver, muscle, adipose tissue, red blood
cells, and several vital organs and glands. Vitamin E,
a strong antioxidant, plays a starring role in protecting
body tissues from damaging free radicals as well as critical
functions in cellular respiration and for prolonging the
life of red blood cells.

DL-Methionine

Dl-methionine is an amino acid, which is used as a nutritional
supplement.

DL-Alpha Tocopheryl
Acetate

Synthesized
Vitamin E. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, which is
stored in the liver, muscle, adipose tissue, red blood
cells, and several vital organs and glands. Vitamin E,
a strong antioxidant, plays a starring role in protecting
body tissues from damaging free radicals as well as critical
functions in cellular respiration and for prolonging the
life of red blood cells.

Dehydrated
Having had the moisture removed by thermal means (heat).

Diamond V "XP"

Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast and the media on which
it was grown consisting of ground yellow corn, hominy
feed, corn gluten feed, wheat middlings, rye middlings,
diastatic malt and corn syrup, and cane molasses.
Has been shown to increase milk supply in cows.

Dicalcium
Phosphate

Supplemental calcium and phosphorus

Dried
Whey

Dried whey is the watery part of milk, separated out and
then dried. It is not less than 11 percent protein or
less than 61 percent lactose.

Ethoxyquin

Originally
developed for use in the rubber industry and used as a
pesticide, it is now used as a preservative in pet foods.
However, the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) will not
approve it for use in human products.

While
it may not be immediately threatening in pet diets, like
many other substances, ethoxyquin may contribute to "cummulative
biomass toxicity". The studies show that exposure
to moderate levels of ethoxyquin increase health risks.
The way cummulative biomass works is that the tissues
accumulate and store certain substances over an extended
period of time. Unlike other chemical and biochemical
compounds, the body doesn't flush them out. Because of
this, exposure at low levels of a substance for a long
period becomes an equivalent toxicity level to exposure
to a high level of the same substance over a short period.
There simply isn't enough research out there to determine
the 'safety' levels of the product. Studies would need
to be years long. If ethoxyquin functions like other pesticides
(which it is classified as), it will in fact produce cummulative
biomass toxicity.

Ethylenediamine
Dihydriodide
The forms of iodine most commonly used in animal feed
are calcium iodate, ethylenediamine dihydriodide (EDDI),
and potassium iodide.

Iodine is a key component in the formation of thyroid
hormones thyroxin and mono-, di-, and tri-iodothyronine.
Excessive ethylenediamine dihydriodide (EDDI) may interfere
with vitamin A metabolism.

Folic
Acid
Vitamin B9 is folic acid or Folicin. It is water soluble
and it is present in the foliage of certain plants and
is considered an anti-anemia vitamin. Folic acid is essential
for the production of red and white blood cells.

Forage
products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Alfalfa meal, dehydrated

Alfalfa hay, ground

Alfalfa meal, sun-cured

Coastal Bermuda grass hay

Corn plant, dehydrated

Dehydrated silage

(ensilage pellets)

Flax plant product

Ground grass

Lespedeza meal

Lespedeza stem meal

Soybean hay, ground

Germ

The embryo found in seeds and frequently separated from
the bran and starch endosperm during milling.

Grain
products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following (in any
of the normal forms such as whole, ground, cracked, screen-cracked,
flaked, kibbled, toasted, or heat-processed) at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Barley

Corn

Grain sorghum

Mixed feed oats

Oats

Rice

Rye

Triticale

Wheat

Ground
Corn

The entire corn kernel ground or chopped. It must contain
not more than 4% foreign material.

Lecithin

A specific phospholipid found in both plants and animals.
Soybeans and other oil bearing seeds are an excellent
source of lecithin. Lecithin displays excellent emulsifying,
wetting, and antioxidant properties.

Linseed
meal

The residue of flaxseed oil production, ground into a
meal.

Menadione Sodium
Bisulfite
Source of Vitamin K. Vitamin K is known as the
clotting vitamin, because without it blood would not clot.
Some studies indicate that it helps in maintaining strong
bones in elderly humans.

Menadione Sodium
Bisulfite Complex

More stable source of Vitamin K. Vitamin K is known as
the clotting vitamin, because without it blood would not
clot. Some studies indicate that it helps in maintaining
strong bones in elderly humans.

Menadione Dimethylpyrimidinol
Bisulfite
A stabilized form of Vitamin K3. Vitamin
K is known as the clotting vitamin, because without it
blood would not clot. Some studies indicate that it helps
in maintaining strong bones in elderly humans.

Middlings

A by-product of flour milling comprised of several grades
of granular particles containing different proportions
of the endosperm, bran, germ, and differing levels of
fiber.

Molasses
A thick, black liquid derived from the extraction of sugar
from sugar cane. Very high sucrose content

Molasses
Products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Beet molasses

Beet molasses, dried product

Beet pulp, dried, molasses

Cane molasses

Citrus molasses

Condensed molasses

Condensed solubles

Fermentation solubles

Molasses, distillers

Molasses, distillers, dried

Molasses yeast condensed

Solubles

Starch molasses

Niacin
A form of Vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 is required for cell
respiration, helps in the release of energy and metabolism
of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins, proper circulation
and healthy skin, functioning of the nervous system, and
normal secretion of bile and stomach fluids.

Nicotinic
Acid

This is a form of niacin, a B vitamin which, apart from
its use as a vitamin supplement in the treatment of niacin
deficiency, is also prescribed in the treatment of a large
number of disorders. High doses of the drug are used to
treat certain types of hyperlipidaemia (high levels of
fat in the blood), which may increase the risk of heart
disease. Nicotinic acid also has a vasodilator effect,
improving circulation to the fingers and toes.

Oat
Bran

The edible portion of the whole oat that is separated
by sifting from the flour.

Oat
Groats

Cleaned oats with the hulls removed.

Oat
Hulls

The outer covering of oats.

Plant
protein products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.
Algae
meal

Beans, dried

Canola meal

Coconut meal

Cottonseed cake

Cottonseed flakes

Cottonseed meal

Cottonseed meal, low gossypol

Cottonseed, whole

Linseed meal

Peanut meal

Peas

Rapeseed meal

Safflower meal

Soybean feed

Soybeans, ground

Soybean, heat-processed

Soybean meal

Soybean meal, kibbled

Soy flour

Soy grits

Soy protein concentrate

Sunflower meal, pressed, dehulled

Yeast, active dry

Yeast, brewers'

Yeast, primary dried

Yeast, culture

Yeast, dried

Yeast, torula dried

Processed
grain by-products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Brewers' dried grains

Buckwheat middlings

Condensed fermented corn

Condensed distillers' solubles

Corn bran

Corn flour

Corn germ meal

Corn gluten feed

Corn gluten meal

Corn grits

Distillers' dried grains

Distillers' dried grains/solubles

Distillers' dried solubles

Grain sorghum germ cake

Grain sorghum germ meal

Grain sorghum grits

Grain sorghum mill feed

Hominy feed

Malt sprouts

Oat groats

Oat meal, feeding

Pearl barley by-product

Peanut skins

Rice bran

Rice polishings

Rye middlings

Sorghum grain flour

Wheat bran

Wheat flour

Wheat germ meal

Wheat germ meal, defatted

Wheat middlings

Wheat mill run

Wheat red dog

Wheat shorts

Propionates

Calcium propionate and sodium propionate, were recently
evaluated by the FDA and although massive doses of these
preservatives did kill lab rats, the FDA labeled them
safe. Germany, however, has banned propionates. Propionic
acid is a fatty acid that exists naturally in everything
from apples to wood pulp. It works in two ways: It flavors
food and it inhibits mold growth. Recent research shows
propionic acid to be a safe preservative.

Pyridoxine
Hydrochloride

Vitamin B 6 - Vitamin B6, or pyridoxine, is a water-soluble
B vitamin that is important in the functioning of a host
of enzymes and amino acids.

Riboflavin

A water-soluble vitamin, helps the body release energy
from protein, fat, and carbohydrates during metabolism.

Rice
Bran

The pericarp or bran layer and germ of the rice, with
only such quantity of hull fragments, chipped, broken,
or brewer's rice, and calcium carbonate as is unavoidable
in the regular milling of edible rice.

Roughage
products

This is known as a collective feed term and legally the
food can include one or more of the following at any given
time and can change without notice to the consumer.

Almond hulls, ground

Apple pectin pulp, dried

Apple pomace, dried

Bagasse

Barley hulls

Barley mill by-product

Beet pulp, dried

Buckwheat hulls

Citrus meal, dried

Citrus pulp, dried

Citrus seed meal

Corncob fractions

Cottonseed hulls

Flax straw by-products

Husks

Malt hulls

Oat hulls

Oat mill by-product

Oat mill by-product, clipped

Peanut hulls

Rice hulls

Rice mill by-product

Rye mill run

Soybean hulls

Soybean mill feed

Soybean mill run

Sunflower hulls

Straw, ground

Tomato pomace, dried

Sodium
Nitrate

Widely used as a red coloring and preservative, produces
powerful carcinogenic substances known as nitrosamines.
People have died from accidental nitrite poisoning.

Soybean
Hulls
Consist primarily of the outer covering of the soybean.

Soybean
Meal

The product remaining after most or all of the oil has
been extracted from whole soybeans.

Sterols
Solid cyclic alcohols which are the major constituents
of the unsaponifiable portion of animal and vegetable
fats and oils.

(Definition of Saponify: to hydrolyze (a
fat) with alkali to form a soap and glycerol)

Sun
Cured
Sun-cured is left in the field until it is dry enough
to be processed. Then it is raked up, loaded into a truck
and taken to the processing facility. Hot-air dried alfalfa
is cut and trucked directly to the processing facility.
Each time the alfalfa is handled, nutritional losses will
occur, so hot-air dried alfalfa is better quality from
the start.

Thiamine

Vitamin B1, also called thiamine, is one of eight water-soluble
B vitamins. All B vitamins help the body to convert carbohydrates
into glucose (sugar), which is "burned" to produce
energy. These B vitamins, often referred to as B complex
vitamins, are essential in the breakdown of fats and protein.
B complex vitamins also play an important role in maintaining
muscle tone along the wall of the digestive tract and
promoting the health of the nervous system, skin, hair,
eyes, mouth, and liver. It may also be labeled as thiamine
hydrochloride or thiamine mononitrate.

Wheat
Bran

The coarse outer covering of the wheat kernel as separated
from cleaned and scoured wheat in the usual process of
commercial milling.

Vitamin
A

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin that is essential for
the function of all the organs in the body and is particularly
important for growth and development. Acetate is a retinol
form of vitamin A commonly used in supplements (this is
a synthetic form of vitamin A). Vitamin A is essential
for healthy eyes and vision, health of epithelial cells,
growth, a healthy reproductive system, protection against
infection, bone development and brain development. It
is also important for the maintenance of the proper functioning
of the immune system.

Vitamin
B12

Vitamin B12 is a member of the vitamin B complex. It contains
cobalt, and so is also known as cobalamin. Vitamin B12's
primary functions are in the formation of red blood cells
and the maintenence of a healthy nervous system. B12 is
necessary for the rapid synthesis of DNA during cell division.
This is especially important in tissues where cells are
dividing rapidly, particularly the bone marrow tissues
responsible for red blood cell formation.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, which is stored in
the liver, muscle, adipose tissue, red blood cells, and
several vital organs and glands. Vitamin E, a strong antioxidant,
plays a starring role in protecting body tissues from
damaging free radicals as well as critical functions in
cellular respiration and for prolonging the life of red
blood cells.

Zinc
Amino Acid Complex

Zinc, combined with select amino acids.

Most commonly used is Availa-Zn. Amino acids are the building
blocks of protein. Amino acids are involved in a number
of metabolic functions including protein synthesis. Zinc
is necessary for sense of taste and smell, is required
for the formation and activity of insulin, is an antioxidant
mineral, essential for many vital enzymatic processes,
is needed for a healthy reproductive and immune system,
for tissue renewal, maintenance of the skin and for healthy
bones and teeth. Zinc helps maintain the function of the
liver and the release of vitamin A. Zinc is required for
the development of the skeletal system, nervous system
and for brain function in the growing fetus. Excessive
calcium reduces zinc metabolism. Copper and iron are slightly
antagonistic to zinc. Dietary plant phytate/phytic acid
reduces zinc availability.

Zinc Methionine
Studies show that zinc methionine exhibits a superior
absorption rate when compared with many other forms of
zinc. Methionine is an amino acid with antioxidant activity
which assists detoxification. Methionine aids the metabolism
of Omega-3 essential fatty acids. Zinc is necessary for
sense of taste and smell, is required for the formation
and activity of insulin, is an antioxidant mineral, essential
for many vital enzymatic processes, is needed for a healthy
reproductive and immune system, for tissue renewal, maintenance
of the skin and for healthy bones and teeth. Zinc helps
maintain the function of the liver and the release of
vitamin A. Zinc is required for the development of the
skeletal system, nervous system and for brain function
in the growing fetus. Excessive calcium reduces zinc metabolism.
Copper and iron are slightly antagonistic to zinc. Dietary
plant phytate/phytic acid reduces zinc availability.

Zinc
Oxide

Zinc content in zinc oxide is 72%. It is usually the most
cost-efficient form of zinc. Zinc is necessary for sense
of taste and smell, is required for the formation and
activity of insulin, is an antioxidant mineral, essential
for many vital enzymatic processes, is needed for a healthy
reproductive and immune system, for tissue renewal, maintenance
of the skin and for healthy bones and teeth. Zinc helps
maintain the function of the liver and the release of
vitamin A. Zinc is required for the development of the
skeletal system, nervous system and for brain function
in the growing fetus. Excessive calcium reduces zinc metabolism.
Copper and iron are slightly antagonistic to zinc. Dietary
plant phytate/phytic acid reduces zinc availability.

Zinc
Sulfate
Usually manufactured from secondary zinc sources. Zinc

content in zinc sulfate is 35%. Zinc
is necessary for sense of taste and smell, is required
for the formation and activity of insulin, is an antioxidant
mineral, essential for many vital enzymatic processes,
is needed for a healthy reproductive and immune system,
for tissue renewal, maintenance of the skin and for healthy
bones and teeth. Zinc helps maintain the function of the
liver and the release of vitamin A. Zinc is required for
the development of the skeletal system, nervous system
and for brain function in the growing fetus. Excessive
calcium reduces zinc metabolism. Copper and iron are slightly
antagonistic to zinc. Dietary plant phytate/phytic acid
reduces zinc availability.

All about Chinchilla's

2008-01-24T08:48:00.001-08:00

We live in Canada and have 6 chinchilla's, we rescued the first two from the Vancouver SPCA and as it turns out the female was pregnant (One of the babies "Tigger" is pictured to the right). So then we had four. A few years later we decided to rescue two more from a local pet rescue (mom and baby girl)

This blog is all about chinchilla's. We realised there was alot of misinformation out there. There are articles telling people to feed their chin's things that are down right dangerous. Hopefully this blog will give you some valuable information and not become ONE OF THOSE OTHER BLOGS... you know the ones that tell you all sorts of crap.