Allez Rock Climbing

Gravical 2012!

2012-01-09T09:23:00.000-08:00

Chris Sharma Deep Water Solo-ing

2012-01-09T09:20:00.001-08:00

Dave Macleod

2012-01-09T09:19:00.001-08:00

Chris Sharma Onsighting Proper Soul (5.14a) New River Gorge

2012-01-02T12:16:00.001-08:00

Download our Apps

2011-12-28T23:29:00.000-08:00

1) iPhone app: http://itunes.apple.com/my/app/bloapp/id436962200?mt=8

2) Android app: https://market.android.com/details?id=com.infindo.bloapp.activities

3) Nokia Ovi Store app: http://store.ovi.com/content/236863

Beauty of the climb

2011-12-27T11:09:00.000-08:00

Climbing Specific Conditioning at Onsight Climbing Center

2011-12-25T10:04:00.000-08:00

In collaboration with SCA, Onsight was offering the chance of a lifetime to be trained by Tonderai Katiyo and Florian Escoffier!

Tonde is a World Cup route-setter and has conducted training workshops for Japan, China and Hong Kong.

The 1-hour training sessions are short, intensive and meant for Novice and Intermediate Level climbers.

11 High intensive Station that focuses on training a climber specific body part to make them a better climber.

Arms, Back, Core training that trains and help to improve not only the climber strength but balance as well.

Figure of 8 Belaying Device

2011-12-23T09:56:00.000-08:00

Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment, although it does not provide enough holding power for this to be recommended.

It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation. A square eight, used in rescue applications, is better for rappelling than the traditional 8.

Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Holding the brake hand off to the side twists the rope, whereas holding the brake hand straight down, parallel to the body, allows a controlled descent without twisting the rope.

An 8 descender can wear a rope quicker than a tube style belay/rappel device because of the many bends it puts into the rope. Many sport climbers also avoid them because of the extra bulk an 8 puts on the rack. However, many ice climbers prefer to use the 8, because it is much easier to thread with stiff or frozen rope.

Download our free app at Nokia Ovi Store

2011-12-23T09:49:00.000-08:00

Link: http://store.ovi.com/content/236863

How to Choose a Belay Device

2011-12-14T21:22:00.000-08:00

If you're going to do any climbing beyond bouldering, you need to know how to belay. Belaying is one of the most critical of climbing skills because you have your partner's safety—and possibly even his or her life—in your hands.

In belaying, you control the rope's movement to protect the climber at the other end. You can do this without a belay device but having one definitely makes the job easier. A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. The device, plus the belayer's quick "braking hand" (which locks off the free end of the rope), stops the climber's fall.

Types of Belay/Rappel Devices

Assorted belay devices are available. Which one you choose depends on the kind of climbing you do.

Tubular

These models are the most widely used belay devices. Their shape is best described as an oversized thimble with twin holes in the bottom. The rope is folded and pushed through the device and clipped with a locking carabiner to the belayer or directly to the anchor. The bend in the rope and its contact with the device put friction on the rope to slow it down. These devices are suitable for any kind of climbing.

Advantages: Tubes or cones are compact, light and easy to use. They work with many rope diameters and can accommodate single or double ropes. They don't twist or kink ropes and they can be used for rappelling as well as belaying.

Disadvantage: Some people, especially lighter-weight climbers, find tubular belay devices to be slow for rappelling.

Example: The Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is probably the most popular tubular device on the market. All such devices have a plastic or aluminum loop on one end to keep the device attached to the carabiner when you insert or remove the rope.

Self-Braking

Self-braking belay devices have a camming mechanism that locks down on the rope when a sudden force is applied to it. They operate much like your car's seatbelts. The rope is threaded through the inside of the device, which is clipped to the anchor or the belayer. These devices are used mainly for sport climbing, either at gyms or climbing areas.

Advantages: These devices help the belayer to stop the climber's fall, though they still require a bit of tension from the braking hand to initiate the self-braking function. They feed rope smoothly and make it easy to lower the climber in a controlled manner.

Disadvantage: Self-braking devices can put high shock loads on climbing protection during a fall. As a result, they are not recommended for lead trad climbing and are best suited for use with extremely secure top-rope anchors. They should be used only with supple, 10 to 12mm single ropes. They are not recommended for use with wet or icy ropes.

Example: The Petzl Grigri is a very popular self-braking device used in many gyms and by sport climbers.

Figure 8

These are shaped like the number 8, as the name implies, with one larger and one smaller hole. A bight (bend) of rope is fed through the large hole and looped around the outside of the small hole till it rests on the "neck" of the figure 8. The small hole is clipped to the climber or anchor. Figure 8s are frequently used for search and rescue, caving and traditional climbing as rappel devices. As belay devices, they are limited to top-roped situations.

Advantages: Figure 8s are efficient and smooth for rappelling. They dissipate heat efficiently and can be used with just about any rope diameter.

Disadvantage: As belay devices, figure 8s offer inadequate braking for anything but top-roping (unless used like a belay plate with rope going only through the small hole). They also require more attention and more force from the belayer's hand than other devices, and they put a twist in the climbing rope, which can make rope handling difficult.

Example: The Black Diamond Super 8 can be used for belaying as well as rappelling.

Malaysia Rock Climbing Indoor Walls and Gyms

2011-12-13T11:14:00.000-08:00

Here's a list of places where you can experience Some Rock Climbing in Malaysia

Johor

Petit Climbing Center
432, Jalan Saujana Utama
81750 Plentong, Johor
019-7166222
http://arinpetit.blogspot.com

Freestanding bouldering wall at 3.8 meter height 20 meters of wide including roofs, dihedral, multiple overhangs and face climb.

ROCKWORLD
7b,Jalan Tanjong 1,Taman Desa
Cemelang, Johor
Johor Bahru, Malaysia 81100
012-7729300
Rockworld

Putrajaya

PutraClimb
Challenge Park 2, Jalan P5 Precint 20
Putrajaya, Malaysia
http://www.putraclimb.com

Massive overhangs, up to 25 meters. 50 Lead anchors.Lead walls range from moderate to very difficult. French 6A to 7C or more. Bouldering wall for beginner and advanced.

Shah Alam

Shah Alam Exteme Park
Jalan Lompat Pagar 13/37,Seksyen 13
Shah Alam, 40100 Malaysia
http://www.facebook.com/ShahAlamExtremePark

Malaysia’s premium multisport facility includes paintball, skating, biking, climbing and bouldering located at Section 13,Shah Alam, Selangor Darul
Ehsan. Features 3 freestanding Boulder blocks and a 2-poded freestanding Climbing Wall. Total climbing area 525m2, total bouldering area 320m2.

Kuala Lumpur

Camp 5
EZ501, 5th Floor, 1
Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama
47800, Petaling Jaya. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
603 784 555 61
http://camp5.com

2500m2 Indoor climbing wall, top rope walls from 8 to 13m height, 8m trad rock-like wall,lead walls from 16 to 20m. Massive comp wall. 400 m2 of bouldering, with a 5m top out and 2 caves

First World Hotel / Theme Park
69000 Genting Highlands,
Pahang, Malaysia
Indoor climbing wall

MadMonkeyz Climbing Gym
19-1, Jalan Metro Wangsa, Wangsa Maju
Section 2, Wangsa Maju
Kuala Lumpur, Setapak, Malaysia 53300
+603 4142 0698
http://www.madmonkeyz.my/

MadMonkeyz Climbing in Malaysia is dedicated to bouldering and movement training for climbing. Located at Wangsa Maju, Madmonkeyz is accessible by public transportation and is open 7 days a week offering great routes and a comfortable atmosphere to train in.

Kota Kinabalu

Sabah Indoor Climbing Centre
Likas Sports Complex
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia 88300
(006) 0148511400
http://sicc.com.my

Sabah's first indoor centre

Climbing Dictionary 'C'

2011-12-13T11:05:00.000-08:00

Cam
Short for camming device, removable, portable protection that helps arrest a climbers fall.

Campus
1)to work out on a campus board.
2) to climb with feet dangling as if using a campus board.

Campus board
a runged ladderlike training device used to train for climbing. Originated by the Late Wolfgang Guillich, this simple device has been largely responsible for advances in climbing difficulty around the world.

Carabiner
A metal ring with a spring-loaded gate used to attach the rope to protection, and many other things.

Cave
A roof enclosed on two sides.

Chalk
white drying agent used to keep a climbers hands dry. Sometimes called "white courage" 2. (vb.) to apply chalk to hands.

Chalk Bag
A small bag with a stiff rim worn clipped to the harness or around the waist on a belt and used to hold chalk. Allows the climber to access chalk while climbing.

Chalk Up
Putting chalk on the hands before or while on a climb.

Chicken Wing
A type of arm bar useful in off widths and tight chimneys. Bend arm at elbow so that hand touches shoulder. Insert in crack and push against opposite sides. Works especially well vertically in squeeze chimneys, with elbow pointing up and pressing against one side of chimney, and heel of hand against the other side. 2.(v.) To Chicken Wing: bad climbing form on a face climb where the climber's elbows point out and back at an awkward angle.

Chickenhead
A knobby feature (resembling a chicken's head) which provides excellent holds for hands or feet.

Chimney
1)A parallel sided constriction wider than body width.
2) To climb a chimney.

Chipping
The act of altering the rock by breaking it. Almost universally shunned by climbers, but still performed by those whose bodies and egos are too weak to meet the challenge of a climb.

Chock
A generic term for all passive protection that can be wedged into a crack or slot in the rock, i.e., wired nuts, slung nuts, hexes, stoppers, wedges, etc. . .

Choss
loose, bad quality rock.

Class 1
Denotes walking where no special footwear is required. One of six classes describing travel in the mountains.

Class 2
Denotes trail walking where it is advisable to have boots or other sturdy footwear. One of six classes describing travel in the mountains.

Class 3
Denotes scrambling involving the use of the hands as well as the feet, but where a rope is not needed. More commonly used to describe climbing without a rope, especially when the climbers have a rope.

Class 4
requiring use of hands as well as feet, sometimes referred to as scrambling, but where a rope is advisable because a fall would likely result in serious injury or death. Class 4 is a step below technical rock climbing (Class 5), which involves more difficult climbing and requires the use of protection devices. For a rock climber to describe something as fourth class usually means that it is easy.

Class 5
Technical rock climbing requiring the use of rope and protection, and where only one climber moves at a time while belayed by another climber. This is why the Yosemite Decimal System starts at 5.0.

Class 6
Direct aid. When the Yosemite Decimal System was first devised, free climbs were rated from 5.0 to 5.9, and the next rating up was 6.0, the point at which you had to hang on the rope. The decimal system never caught on for aid. (See aid ratings.)

Clean
1) To remove protection devices (gear). On a multipitch climb, the climber who seconds (follows the leader), takes out all of the removable gear placed by the leader.
2) A clean climb, or a climb that “goes clean” is one that can be done without using a hammer to pound in pitons or mashies. This method is called clean because it does not damage the rock.
3) adj. To complete a climb or project without hang-dogging or falling, especially on top-rope.

Cleaning Tool
A metal tool used in the extraction of protection that has become stuck in the rock.

Clipping
The act of putting a carabiner onto a bold, the rope, or a piece of protection. 'Clipping!' is a common call to indicate to the belayer that you are about to pull up rope to make a clip.

Clipstick
Stick Clip

Clove Hitch
Knot often used to tie a rope to a carabiner.

Cold shut
A type of fixed anchor composed of bent bar stock. Cold shuts, or "shuts," may be open (simply a bent hook that cradles the rope) or closed (welded into a complete loop of metal). Open shuts may be gated to keep the rope from popping out or not. While some types of shuts are still often installed atop (mostly) single-pitch climbs, they have fallen somewhat out favor. Reasons for this include a perceived strength weakness and their short lifespan relative to other types of anchors.

Commitment
A term used to define how hard a climb is.

Copperhead
Aid device made of a malleable copper alloy and slung on swaged wire cable, used to hammer into shallow grooves and slots in the rock. When pounded with a hammer and chisel, they deform to fit the shape of the rock. These are typically left fixed because they are difficult to remove without damaging the rock.

Cow's Tail
A sling girth-hitched onto the harness attachment point.

Crack
An inwards split or break in a rock face.

Crack climbing
the act of climbing continuous cracks in the rock often requiring specific techniques and protection methods.

Crampons
Meal spikes which attach onto climbing boots to allow a firm grip on snow or ice.

Crank
Slang for pulling on a hold at your maximum power.

Crash pad
See bouldering pad.

Crater
to fall off a climb to the ground.

Crimp
to grip in a way such that fingertips contact the hold with knuckles raised slightly.

Crimper
a small edged hold which is conducive to crimping.

Cross Threaded
When the thread on a carabiner's locking mechanism's is not twisting freely, usually due to it being tightened up whilst loaded. This can be very hard to unscrew.

Cross through
a reach with hand or foot that crosses the line of the other appendage.

Crucifix move
A strenuous stemming move using the arms instead of the legs; the upper body is locked by applying outward pressure on the hands at anything up to shoulder level, allowing the feet to be brought over a bulge or blank section. Often used in conjunction with standard stemming to tackle wide chimneys.

Crux
the most crucial, difficult part of the climb.

Cruxy
A climb is said to be cruxy if it has several hard sections interspersed with rather easy sections.

Mad Rock Men's Mugen Tech Performance Velcro Shoe

2011-12-12T10:11:00.000-08:00

The next-gen version of Mad Rock's groundbreaking Mugen model boasts our new nature-friendly hemp lining and added performance because of the Mad Rock Power Upper and 3-D midsole. With its understated looks and environmental bona-fides. If you are looking for a feel-good, eco-friendly rock shoe with limit-shattering performance, step right up. Think New Mugen on Steriods.

Material:

leather
Rubber sole
Featuring the stickiest new Science Friction rubber
Premium leather upper
Hemp lining limits stretch

Recommanded use:

Bouldering
Sport
Gym
Competition

Buy Here

Knots: The Fisherman's Knot

2011-12-12T09:44:00.000-08:00

The fisherman's knot is a bend (a knot for joining two lines) with a symmetrical structure consisting of two overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other.

The fisherman's knot is also known as the true lover's knot, perhaps because of the intimately symmetrical way the two ropes join together. Although diagrams of this knot can look quite confusing, it is really a very simple one because it consists merely of two overhand knots that are pulled together and "stop" each other.

The double fisherman's knot or grapevine knot is a bend, or a knot used to join two lengths of rope. This knot and the triple fisherman's knot are the variations used most often in climbing, arboriculture, and search and rescue. The knot is formed by tying a double overhand knot, in its strangle knot form, with each end around the opposite line's standing part.

A primary use of this knot is to form high strength loops of cord for connecting pieces of a climber's protection system. Another common use for this knot is to back up a critical knot, such as a harness tie-in knot or single-line rappel rigs. In this use, the running end is tied around the standing end of the rope, so that it cannot slip back through the knot.This knot, along with the basic fisherman's knot can be used to join the ends of a necklace cord. The two double overhand knots are left separated, and in this way the length of the necklace can be adjusted without breaking or untying the strand.

Seven Summits - The highest mountains of each continent

2011-12-12T09:00:00.000-08:00

Summit	Height (m)	Continent	Range	Country
Kilimanjaro (Kibo Summit)	5,895 (19,341 ft)	Africa	Kilimanjaro	Tanzania
Vinson Massif	4,897 (16,500 ft)	Antarctica	Ellsworth Mountains	n/a (claimed by Chile)
Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)	4,884 (16,024 ft)	Oceania	The Sudirman Range	Indonesia
Everest	8,848 (29,035 ft)	Asia	Himalayas	Nepal
Elbrus	5,642 (18,510 ft)	Europe	Caucasus	Russian Federation
Mount McKinley (Denali)	6,194 (20,320 ft)	North America	Alaska Range	United States
Aconcagua	6,962 (22,841 ft)	South America	Andes	Argentina

Professional Climber: Chris Sharma

2011-12-10T10:14:00.000-08:00

Chris Omprakash Sharma started rock climbing when he was 12 at the Pacific Edge climbing gym. At age 14, Sharma won the Bouldering Nationals. A year later, he completed a 5.14c climb, which was the highest-rated climb in North America at the time. Sharma then moved to Bishop, California,where he climbed The Mandala, a bouldering problem rated V12.

In July 2001, Sharma completed the extension of the established route Biographie in Ceüse, located in the Hautes-Alpes Department of France and renamed it Realization, ignoring the European tradition that equippers and not climbers name routes outside the US. At the time of the first ascent, Biographie was widely considered to be the first consensus 5.15 (9a+) in the world. He has since established or completed many routes at or above 5.15, including La Rambla and Es Pontas (a deep water soloing project in Mallorca). In 2008 Sharma climbed the 250-foot line (76 m), Jumbo Love, at Clark Mountain in California, claiming 5.15b for the grade.

Mountains: Mount Kilimanjaro

2011-12-10T10:02:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa, located in Northeast Tanzania, near the Kenya border. Kilimanjaro is an extinct volcano, and is one of the most massive in the world. It towers 15,000 feet above the surrounding arid plains, and 2.5 square miles of its surface are over 18,500 feet. Beneath its ice dome, snow extends down long gullies that have been eroded in the mountain sides. The ice cap, which formed 11,000 years ago, has retreated significantly in recent years, as much as 80% in the last century. Scientists expect it to be gone within the early half of the 21st Century.

Kilimanjaro, with its three volcanic cones, Kibo, Mawenzi, and Shira, is a dormant volcano in Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania and the highest mountain in Africa at 5,895 metres or 19,341 feet above sea level (the Uhuru Peak/Kibo Peak).

Kilimanjaro is composed of three distinct volcanic cones: Kibo 5,895 m (19,341 ft); Mawenzi 5,149 m (16,893 ft); and Shira 3,962 m (13,000 ft). Uhuru Peak is the highest summit on Kibo's crater rim.

It is unknown where the name Kilimanjaro originates, but a number of theories exist. European explorers had adopted the name by 1860 and reported that it was its Swahili name, with Kilimanjaro breaking into Kilima (Swahili for "hill, little mountain") and Njaro, whose supposed origin varies according to the theories—according to some it is an ancient Swahili word for white or for shining, or for the non-Swahili origin, a word from the Kichagga language, the word jaro meaning "caravan". The problem with all these is that they cannot explain why the diminutive kilima is used instead of the proper word for mountain, mlima.

Climbing Dictionary 'B'

2011-12-09T09:31:00.000-08:00

Back clean
When leading, to remove superfluous gear from below for anticipated use higher on the pitch, most often when aid climbing by simply reaching back or below to clean. Mindy decided to back clean the last two TCUs she had placed to save them for the centimeter-wide crack out the big roof.

Back step
1. A foot position relative to its foothold wherein the climber uses the outside edge of the toe box, instead of the big toe, inside edge, heel, instep, etc.
2. To use the outside edge of one's foot on a foothold.
3. (the rope) to place a foot or leg between the rope and the rock in such a way as to make entanglement and, subsequently, an upside-down fall more likely. Dude! Watch your right foot! Don't back step the rope!

Bail
To give up and rappel or otherwise get off the route because of weather, darkness, or difficulties. “We both tried and fell on the crux several times, so we bailed.” “We didn’t want to finish in the dark, so we bailed.”

Bail Biner
A carabiner left behind when rappelling or lowering off of a climb, usually left on a single bolt or other protection device mid-pitch.

Bandolier
A short sling with a padding worn over the shoulder by the leader to hold a rack that is too big to be accommodated by gear loops.

Barn door
When the body swings away from the rock from two or more pivot points (usually one hand and one foot) due to the angle. Can occur on a steep lieback as well. Difficult to recover from and often results in a fall.

Base Camp
The lowest fixed camp on a long route or other journey.

Belay
1. the process of paying out the rope to the lead climber, or taking in rope for a follower, while he/she climbs, and of protecting the climber in the event of a fall. Belaying allows a climber to fall and live to try again.
2. the place where a climber belays, and the anchor is set up attaching the climber to the rock, normally at the beginning and end of each pitch. (See belay station.) Also, a session of belaying.

Belay Device
A device that attaches to the climber’s harness through which the rope is threaded for belaying. Its primary purpose is to create friction quickly in the event of a fall so the belayer can stop the rope, which stops the leader’s fall, simply by pulling against the device. The device creates a ‘hairpin’ turn in the rope at all times and allows the belayer to pay out or take in slack freely, and to stop or brake the rope in an instant. Common belay devices: ATC, GriGri, Sticht Plate

Belay Monkey
Any person recruited for the task of belaying for long periods of time. Similar to Belay Betty; usually a non-climbing female recruited to belay a significant other.

Belay Station
A secure stance consisting of an anchor, a rope, and a belayer with a belay device. The place where a belayer sits, stands or hangs while belaying.

Belay on
When the belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on". (At least in the US, "belay on" would only confuse the hell out of a British climber who prefers to hear "Climb when ready").

Belayer
A person who is belaying a climber.

Beta
Information about a route.

Betaflash
1. A clean first ascent with no falls after having received beta. (This contrasts an onsightflash, a clean ascent with no prior knowledge of the route.
2. to perform a betaflash.

Big wall
A large expanse of steep rock taking a minimum of three days to climb with conventional methods (free and aid climbing, hauling a bag with food water and shelter). El Cap and Half Dome in Yosemite Valley are big walls though both have routes that have been climbed in less than a day. The majority of routes on both require three to eight days to climb. Washington Column, Sentinel, and Leaning Tower are usually not referred to as a big walls. 2. (adj.) Of or pertaining to a big wall. (e.g., big wall climbing gear).

Biner
Slang for carabiner, a metal ring with a spring-loaded gate used to attach the rope to protection, and many other things. (See carabiner.)

Bird Beak
A thin hook used as protection in small cracks and pockets.

Bivouac
1. a place to spend the night.
2. to spend the night, often in an unexpected location. Slang: Bivy

Bivy
Slang for Bivouac. A place to spend the night. 2.(vb.) to spend the night, often in an unexpected location.

Bolt
A permanent anchor in the rock installed individually as a protection device, or with other bolts or protection devices as an anchor. The bolt is a metal shaft 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch or 5/16 inch in diameter (common sizes), driven into a hole drilled by the climber, and equipped with a hanger to attach a carabiner. Generally, no one installs 1/4 inch bolts anymore, and because most of them are more than 25 years old, they should not be used when found. Occasionally they can be pried out by hand, or break under body weight.

Bomb-bay
Describes a chimney (or sometimes lesser crack) that opens at the bottom toward the ground, similar to the bomb-bay doors on a B-52 aircraft.

Bomber
A corruption of "bombproof" meaning very secure.

Bombproof
Very secure, unlikely to move even when subjected to great force.

Bong
An extra-wide-angled piton used primarily in the early days of big wall climbing.

Booty
gear left behind for the taking, usually either from a previous party bailing on a route or accidentally fixing gear.

Boulder
A big rock typically climbed without a rope. May be head high to over 30 feet. Each boulder may have many distinct routes. Boulder problems are often top roped (See top rope), but climbing without a rope is thought to be better style. To boulder or to go bouldering is to climb boulder problems.

Bouldering Pad
A mat three to four inches thick, and roughly four feet square placed on the ground under a boulderer to cushion a fall. Usually made of layers of foam of various densities and covered with heavy, durable nylon and equipped with straps so that it can be folded in half and carried from place to place on the climber’s back. Also known as a crash pad.

Bouncing
Sport climbing technique used to regain the rock after falling and the climber is hanging free and out of reach of the rock. The climber climbs the rope hand over hand (very strenuous), and then drops. At the instant the climber lets go, the belayer hauls in slack thereby raising the climber. Repeating this process eventually brings the climber back to the rock. Also known as boinking, and to superman (compare with batman).

Bowline knot
One of the two common knots for tying in to the climbing harness (after the Figure 8 knot). Used by some experienced climbers for indoor and sport climbing because it is easier to untie after repeated loadings. Can be tied with one hand. Should be periodically re-tightened and the loose end MUST be secured with a Stopper knot - it may pull through the loop otherwise. "The rabbit goes out of the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole" is a commonly used phrase that provides hints on how to tie the bowline knot.

Brachiate
To swing from one hold to another by the arms.

Brake Hand
The hand that holds the rope on the opposite side of the belay device to the climber.

Brain Bucket
Climbing helmet

Brèche
A notch in a ridge

Bridging
Climbing manouver involving arching the legs across a gap to put pressure on two opposing holds or walls. See also: Stemming.

Bucket
big handhold that is easy to hold onto. Usually a depression, hole or scoop (concave) in the rock. See also jug.

Bump
To move from one hand hold to another with the same hand in a sequential move, typically from an intermediate hold in a linear fashion.

Buildering
To climb on buildings or manmade structures. Often done for training for rock climbing.

Buttress
A part of the mountain or rock formation that stands out from the main face. May also be used to describe the corner of a rock formation, e.g., the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.

Arc'teryx R300 Climbing Harness

2011-12-09T08:39:00.000-08:00

Features:

Wide swami belt and leg loops are constructed with Warp Strength Technology (WST) from ARCTERYX that provides maximum support and strength at vastly reduced weight Four gear loops a non-structural haul loop Wear safety markers on belay loop and tie-in points Sure Fit elasticized leg loop connectors provide a snug fit Stretchy mesh storage bag. Self-locking 7075 T6 aluminum buckle at the waist provides an extra margin of safety by allowing adjustments while maintaining the proper double-back configuration

Specifications:

Weight: 109 ounces Haul loop and 4 Gear loops.

Buy Here:

Singapore Rock Climbing Walls and Gyms

2011-12-09T01:58:00.000-08:00

Here's a list of places where you can experience Some Rock Climbing in Singapore:

1) PA Water Venture Pasir Ris

125 Elias Road

Singapore 519926

http://www.water-venture.org.sg/

with 13m and 15m wall Great for speed climbing and lead climbing with a great scenery of Pasir Ris beach. Equipment provided.

2) BorderX Pte Ltd

181 Orchard Road, #04-22

Singapore, 238896 Singapore

+65 68844870

http://www.borderx.com.sg

Standing at 30m in height, it is home to the world\'s tallest indoor via ferrata climbing wall. The wall also has three lanes of rock climbing, ranging from 5A to 6B in difficulty. Safety on these climbing lanes are managed via auto belay units.

3) Climb Asia Climbing Centre Pte Ltd

60 Tessensohn Road

c/o: Civil Service Club

Singapore 217664

(65) 6292 7701

http://www.climb-asia.com

With a 20m wide indoor climbing wall - 9m high; 9 lanes outdoor high wall - 15 meters; indoor bouldering cave

4) Yishun Safra Climbing Centre

60 Yishun Avenue 4

Singapore, Singapore 769027

Singapore's largest outdoor climbing facility with walls ranging in heights of 15 to 25 metres, a free-form crack wall with two crack climbs of varying width and a chimney climb feature to simulate climbing on natural rocks. And also two floors of indoor bouldering.

5) Climbers Laboratory

48 Toh Guan Rd East #05-152 Enterprise Hub

608586 Singapore

+65- 6515 9363

http://www.exponentasia.com.sg

2 Levels of bouldering, 15 meter wall and 28 meter high wall. 28 Climbing Lanes of 8 metres T-Wall Panels using Triax System

6) Climbers Laboratory 2

Kallang Ture

66 Kampong Bugis #08-01

Kallang Rivergreen Building

Singapore 338987

tel: 62993520

http://www.exponentasia.com.sg/component/content/article/2-news/17-e-climb.html

7) Kinetics Climbing Pte Ltd

160 Paya Lebar Road #02-07, Orion @ Paya Lebar

Singapore, 409022 Singapore

+65 67456426

http://www.kineticsclimbing.com.sg

Climbing solutions for all your climbing needs! An air-conditioned indoor bouldering and top rope climbing centre. Frequently updated routes, Kinetics caters to both beginners and climbing enthusiasts. We also offer various courses and technique clinics conducted by our certified and experienced instructors.

8) Onsight Climbing

100 Guillemard Road, Guillemard Village

Singapore 399718

+65 6348 8272

http://onsight.com.sg

9) Safra Toa Payoh

293 Toa Payoh Lorong 6

Singapore 319387

130 sq m surface, 12 m speed climbing training wall

10) Shines Outdoor

1208 upper boon keng road

Singapore, 387312 Singapore

68417030

www.shinesoutdoor.com

11m by 5m wall. Climbing orientation and climbing level 1 & 2.

11) The Rock School

850 New Upper Changi Road

Singapore, 467352 Singapore

(+65) 91199003

www.therockschool.sg

The Rock School is Singapore’s first climbing centre designed, constructed and dedicated to kids of ages 4 to 14 years old. We aim to promote the sport of Rock Climbing in a fun and safe environment. Besides training kids to rock climb in a safe and fun environment, educational elements are also included in activities and programs. In addition, time for family bonding is a significant part of The Rock School focus.

12) Ubin Lagoon Resort

Signature Lifestyle Pte Ltd

600 Punggol Seventeenth Ave

Singapore 63367001

135 sq m of indoor climbing surface. No access to climbing wall without prior booking

Belaying Devices : Petzl Grigri

2011-12-09T00:59:00.000-08:00

A Gri-gri is a belay device that automatically locks the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the self-locking mechanism, modified belay techniques are widely used. Gri-gri's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow less rope slippage when catching a hard fall. They are a proprietary design by Petzl. The Gri-gri is a preferred device for belaying the follower directly off the anchor because lowering the follower is quite easy. Trango sells a similar self-locking belay device called the Cinch that is rated to work on ropes 9.4 to 11 mm (the Gri-Gri is rated from 10 to 11 mm).

Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Gri-gri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. This increases the amount of force exerted on the anchor which, in turn, increases the chance of anchor failure.

Mechanism of operation

The Grigri works by locking when sudden acceleration occurs to the rope (like in a fall), therefore making it an automatic belay device unlike traditional belay devices such as a Sticht plate or an ATC. The device acts like an automobile seat belt, if you move the rope slowly you can run the rope through the Grigri without it locking but a shock load locks the device so rope won't run. One of the criticisms of automatic belay devices is that they can lead to a false sense of security. The automatic functionality may result in the belayer being less attentive to the climber than with a more traditional belay device. However, like any tool, proper training is required for proper use.

Pros and cons of use

Some climbers feel that the Grigri is only suitable for top rope climbing and not lead climbing due to the auto-locking feature, though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking mechanism. This practice does compromise the added margin of safety that the GriGri contributes to the belay over more traditional belay devices, though release of the device during a fall will still allow the device to lock normally. Users can and should learn how to feed rope without holding the device open, though learning to quickly and confidently disengage the braking mechanism is important for a safe belay, as accidental locking of the Grigri can cause problems for the leader that may lead to a fall. Petzl has released information on how rope should be fed through in a lead climb, including how to let slack out quickly so that the climber can clip a quickdraw on a sport route.

While designed as a belay device, big wall climbers have invented novel ways to use the Grigri that are not recommended by the manufacturer. For example some big wall soloists use the Grigri (sometime slightly modified but not necessarily) as a self-feeding hands-free self-belay device. In big wall situations, the Grigri allows for hands-free belaying on long aid pitches while the rest of the party does other things. It can also be used by the second to self-belay while jumaring the rope as one half of the ascender pair; the leader can belay the second hands-free allowing the leader to haul, take pictures, or do other chores; the second can use it to lower out while following a traverse.

The Grigri is heavier and more expensive than other belay devices. Many climbers aim to reduce weight on their harness (equipment attached to the harness is known as a "rack") as much as possible as it can drain energy. However, there are applications where only an automatic belay device will work. The Grigri has a lower limit for the rope size for which the clutch will engage. This makes it unusable with many of today's skinny ropes - like those used in many alpine applications.

Many novice climbers make the mistake of thinking that an auto locking device such as the Grigri, Cinch or Eddy can make up for a lack of belaying skill. This is not true, and does cause accidents. It is very important correct training is received before belaying with any device commences.

Knots: Figure-of-Eight

2011-12-09T00:39:00.000-08:00

The figure-eight knot is a type of knot. It is very important in both sailing and rock climbing as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices. Unlike the overhand knot, which will bind iron-hard under strain, often requiring the rope to be cut, the figure of eight can be easily untied after even the greatest strain.

Different types of figure-eight knots

Double figure-eight knot

Double figure-eight knot (figure-eight loop) is used like an overhand loop knot. This type of knot can be used in prusik climbing when used in conjunction with a climbing harness, a climbing rope, and locking carabiner designed for climbing, to ascend or descend with minimal equipment and effort.

Figure-eight splice knot

Figure-eight splice knot is used to quickly and effectively "splice" together two ropes, not necessarily of equal diameter. This knot is tied starting with a loose figure eight knot on one rope (the larger-diameter one if unequal), and threading of the other rope's running end through the first figure eight, starting at the first figure-eight's running end and paralleling the path of the first rope through the figure eight until the second's ropes running end lies parallel against first's standing end. The result is two figure-eight knots, each partly inside the other and tightening its hold on the other when they are pulled in opposite directions. This can be a permanent or temporary splice. While it precludes the ropes' slipping relative to each other, it is a typical knot in having less strength than the straight ropes.

Tying

When used as a stopper knot, the figure eight takes a more compact tightened form.
Make a bight in a rope
Twist it around half a turn away from the working end
Bring the working end around from below, then through the loop from above
Pull

or like how we remember;

Make an alien (create a loop).
Choke it (wrap one end around the alien's "neck").
Poke it in the eye (push the end through the "alien" loop).

Among other uses, it's very popular as a "tie in" for attaching the climbing rope to your harness.

The 14 "eight-thousanders"

2011-12-08T07:26:00.000-08:00

NO.	Summit	Elevation	Country	Range	Parent range	Continent
1	Everest	8,848m	Nepal-China	Mahalangur Himal	Himalayas	Asia
2	K2	8,611m	Pakistan-China	Karakoram	Himalayas	Asia
3	Kangchenjunga	8,586m	Nepal-India		Himalayas	Asia
4	Lhotse	8,511m	Nepal-China	Mahalangur Himal	Himalayas	Asia
5	Makalu	8,463m	Nepal-China	Mahalangur Himal	Himalayas	Asia
6	Cho Oyu	8,201m	Nepal-China	Mahalangur Himal	Himalayas	Asia
7	Dhaulagiri	8,167m	Nepal	Dhaulagiri Himal	Himalayas	Asia
8	Manaslu	8,163m	Nepal	Mansiri Himal	Himalayas	Asia
9	Nanga Parbat	8,125m	Pakistan		Himalayas	Asia
10	Annapurna	8,091m	Nepal		Himalayas	Asia
11	Gasherbrum I	8,068m	Pakistan-China	Karakoram	Himalayas	Asia
12	Broad Peak	8,047m	Pakistan-China	Karakoram	Himalayas	Asia
13	Gasherbrum II	8,035m	Pakistan-China	Karakoram	Himalayas	Asia
14	Shishapangma	8,012m	China	Jugal Himal	Himalayas	Asia

Climbing Dictionary 'A'

2011-12-08T07:16:00.000-08:00

American death triangle
An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor.

Abalakov thread
A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also called as V-thread.

Ablation zone
The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.

Abseil
The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

ACR (Alpine Cock Ring)
An anchor method similar to a cordelette but that is dynamically equalizing. It employs a cord and a rappel ring.

Adze
A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.

Allez
French for "Go!" Used to encourage climbers to push on.

Alpine knee
To use your knee as a way to gain ground on a climb.

Alpine start
To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.

Altitude sickness
A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.

Anchor
An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope.

Approach
The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arête
A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward facing corner on a steep rock face

Arête, a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion
A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.

Ascend
To climb a rope using aid device.

Ascent
A completed climb. 'Everest was one of my many ascents.' 2. v. The upward [not vertical] movement or progress [not motion] of a climber. Antonym: descent.

Ascender
A device for ascending on a rope.

Aspect
The direction in which a slope faces.

ATC
A proprietary belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Has become common term used to describe any tubular belay devices.

Atomic belay
A fast method for setting up a two-point anchor in sport climbing, using the climbing rope to attach to the anchor points.

Autoblock
A prusik used as a one-way clutch or pulley. Used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. a.k.a. French prusik or "Machard" prusik.