Italian Sausage Ravioli paired with Barbera d’Alba. Barbera is one of Italy’s most planted grape varieties, with most plantings in Piemonte. The Barbera d’Alba DOC includes the town of Alba and extends on both sides of the Tanaro River and the surrounding Langhe hills. Agnolotti del Plin is a local specialty, fresh pasta filled with roasted meats. I took a variation and paired the Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba with Italian Sausage Ravioli and a Sugo Finto (meatless tomato and vegetable sauce). A classic wine pairing, what grows together goes together.

Barbera (bar-bare-ah)

Where Does it Grow in Italy

Barbera is grown throughout Italy, specifically Northern Italy in Piemonte. The epicenter of production is in the Monferrato Hills. Barbera d’Asti DOCG covers a large area of the Monferrato region, with Asti in the center of the appellation. The vineyards here are required to be planted on the hillsides below 2000 feet in elevation. The soils north of Asti are calcareous marls and sand known as Sabbie Astiane (Asti sands), and to the south, sandstones and compact calcareous marls known as Terre Bianche.

Barbera d’Alba DOC in the Langhe Hills around Alba is another noteworthy area of Barbera production. The appellation covers both sides of the Tanaro River. On the right bank, the production zone is almost identical to that of Barolo and Barbaresco. On the left bank, the appellation includes the hills of Roero. Vineyards are planted on the hillsides; the soils are layers of calcareous marls, sandstone, and sand.

Barbera Styles and Aroma and Flavor Profile

Barbera styles range from easy drinking, everyday bright, fresh, and juicy wines to richer, complex, structured, and oak-aged versions. The variety is known for high acidity and low tannins. Aromas and flavors in Barbera may include: cherry, plum, raspberry, violet, spices, herbs, and vanilla.

In general, Barbera d’Alba tends to be richer and fuller-bodied than styles from Barbera d’Asti.

Food Pairings with Barbera

Barbera food pairings: the local specialty “Agnolotti del Plin (pasta filled with roasted meats served with parmesan, nutmeg, and gravy, grilled and roasted chicken, sausages, and lamb, pasta bolognese, pasta filled with pumpkin and sage, braises with red meat and game, mushroom risotto, and pizza. In general, tomatoes and tomato sauces, sauces made with Madeira or Marsala, and herbs like sage, rosemary, nutmeg, and mace.

Pio Cesare

Pio Cesare was established in 1881 in the center of Alba. The winery is built on the ruins of Roman walls that are over 2000 years old. The estate owns and sustainably farms just over 170 acres of vineyards in Barolo, Barbaresco, and Colli Tortonesi – no chemicals are used on the vines. Federica Boffa is the fifth generation of the family and currently leads the continuing family style of Pio Cesare wines.

My Wine Tasting Notes

2022 Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba DOC, Piemonte, Italy
14.5% ABV | $30.00 | 100% Barbera

Bright medium ruby in color with aromas of spice, raspberry, plum, and blackberry. On the palate, medium(+) bodied, medium tannins, and medium(+) acidity. Notes of cherries, plum, spice, raspberry, blackberry with hints of licorice and toasted tobacco on the finish. The wine is well balance with good structure.

The grapes for the wine came from family-owned vineyards in Serraluga d’Alba, Sinio, Diano d’Alba, and Grinzane Cavour. The grape must spent 15 days of skin contact in stainless steel temperature controlled fermenters. The wine was aged for 18 months in french Allier oak, 30% in mid-toasted barriques that are half new and half one year old, the remaining 70% was aged in 20 to 50 hectoliter casks of Allier oak that are about 8 years old.

My Food Pairing Notes

I paired the Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba with Italian Sausage Ravioli and a Sugo Finto (meatless tomato and vegetable sauce) — a variation of the local specialty Agnolotti de Plin. The Italian Sausage Raviolis were perfect with the wine’s fruit flavors, high acidity, and smooth tannins. The acidity of the tomato sauce matched the wine’s acidity. Indeed, food and wine that evolve in a region often pair well at the table.

* The Italian Sausage Ravioli was purchased from a local pasta shop Pasta Mami and the Sugo Finto recipe is from Divina Cucina’s Recipes by Judy Witts Francini

Sources Used:Wine Scholar Guild,  The Wine Dine Dictionary, Victoria Moore,  What to Drink with What you Eat, Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page,  Italian Wine, Shelley Lindgren and Kate Leahy,  The World in a Wine Glass, Ray Isle, Pio Cesare

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Chicken Enchiladas and Tomatillo Sauce paired with Gavi made from the Cortese grape, one of Italy’s prominent white grape varieties. The Gavi DOCG, the most important appellation for the Cortese grape, lies in the southeast corner of Piemonte in the province of Alessandria. A small area of the DOCG borders Liguria to the south. According to “The Oxford Companion to Wine,” by Jancis Robinson, “Gavi was initially produced to serve the fish restaurants of Genoa and the Liguria coast.” While Gavi is an excellent pairing with fish, I paired the Picollo Ernesto Gavi del Comune di Gavi Rovereto with Chicken Enchiladas and Tomatillo Sauce.

Cortese (kort-tay-zay)

Where is it Grown

Cortese is primarily grown in Italy’s Piemonte in the Gavi DOCG surrounding the town of Gavi; it is the most important appellation for the Cortese grape. Other appellations in Piemonte that grow Cortese include: Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, and Piemonte DOC. Small plantings can be found outside of Italy in Australia, New Zealand, and California. (IdleWild Wines is a favorite California winery producing Piemonte-inspired wines, including Cortese.)

What is the Style and Flavor Profile

Cortese is generally dry, high acidity, and light-bodied. The flavor profile includes: lemon, lime, apple, melon, peaches, pears, minerals, almonds, and herbs.

What Foods Pair well with Cortese

Seafood, pesto, citrus or basil vinaigrette salads, light chicken and pasta dishes, and appetizers. Cortese’s acidity, lemon/lime, and mineral notes perfectly pair with seafood. The acidity and freshness of Cortese make it an overall food-friendly wine for food pairings or as an aperitif.

Picollo Ernesto Winery

Picollo Ernesto Winery was established in 1945 by Lorenzo Picollo. The property is situated among the hills surrounding the town of Gavi in southeastern Piemonte. The climate is more Mediterranean with maritime breezes than the northern part of Piemonte. The estate vineyards are 260 meters above sea level in Rovereto Gavi, a prestigious appellation area, with clay and rich marl soils, dry climate, and full sun exposure; an environment in which Cortese thrives. Over the years, the winemaking and daily management were passed down to Lorenzo’s son, Ernesto. The estate is currently in the hands of Gianlorenzo, Ernesto’s son and third generation.

My Wine Tasting Notes

2024 Picollo Ernesto Gavi, Del Comune di Gavi Revereto
13% abv | $19.99 | 100% Cortese

Pale straw in color with bright citrus aromas. On the palate medium bodied with medium (+) acidity. Notes of lemon, green apple, pear, minerality, and hints of almond and herbs on the finish.

The grapes were manually harvested from vineyards with mostly southern exposure. No pesticides or herbicides are used in the vineyards. The grapes were gently pressed with a pneumatic press in a controlled environment without the presence of oxygen. Fermentation is in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.

My Food Pairing

Chicken Enchiladas and Tomatillo Sauce have the weight, richness, and fresh flavors to pair with Picollo Ernesto Gavi del Comune di Gavi Rovereto. The acidity in the wine works well with the fresh, tart tomatillo sauce and cuts through the richness of the cheese. The 13% abv matches the weight of the chicken enchiladas. The recipe is from Eating Well – Chicken and Tomatillo Enchiladas Recipe.

Sources Used:
Picollo Ernesto Winery
Volio Imports
Wine Scholar Guild

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I’m on a journey to learn more about Italian wines, starting in Northern Italy. My goal is not only the wine adventure, but also to share what I discover along the way. To learn more about wine is to drink it and enjoy it with food around a table with family and friends. Diving deeper into wine — knowing where it is grown, how it is produced, and the people who craft it gives us a greater understanding and connection to what’s in the glass.

A quote from Rowan Jacobsen, an American Writer, I came across in  Karen MacNeil’s The Wine Bible perfectly highlights how I feel about wine.

“Wine trains us to think about the natural world and how place, time, people, and experience are powerfully connected. That’s how meaning is created.”

Come with me and explore the amazing world of wine beyond what’s just in the glass.

Piemonte

My Italian wine journey starts in Piemonte, located in northwestern Italy. Piemonte means “at the foot of the mountain” and is surrounded by mountains on three sides. The Ligurian Apennines and Maritime Alps to the south, the Alps bordering France to the west, and Valle d’Aosta and Switzerland to the north. To the east, Piemonte is landlocked by Lombardia and Emilia-Romagna.

Roero Arneis

Arneis is a white grape variety native to the Roero Hills. It was once almost extinct but was rescued in the 1970s by two prominent wine estates, Vietti and Bruno Giacosa. The Roero Hills are northwest of Alba and on the left bank of the Tanaro River. The main appellation of the Roero Hills is the Roero DOCG, focusing mainly on Arneis and Nebbiolo. Arneis holds the majority of the plantings over Nebbiolo.

The profile of Arneis is aromatic with floral, apricot, pear, and almond notes. The body and acidity are generally medium.

Bruno Giacosa

Bruno Giacosa was a third-generation winemaker from the Langhe wine region in Piemonte. He joined the family business at 15 and established a reputation for crafting outstanding single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco wines. He was instrumental in establishing Piemonte as a leading wine region. As mentioned above, he brought the Arneis indigenous grape variety back from near extinction along with Vietti. Bruno passed away in 2018. His daughter Bruna, now the fourth generation, continues her father’s legacy.

 Wine Tasting Notes

2023 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis DOCG
13.5% abv | $37.99 wine.com| 100% Arneis

Fresh with aromas of pears and chamomile. On the palate, medium bodied and acidity. Notes of lemon, tarragon, a stony minerality, and bitter almond. The mouthfeel is round with a lingering finish.

Food Pairing Notes

Italian Tuna Salad

My first pairing is an Italian Tuna Salad with fresh farmers market mixed greens, cannellini beans, celery, red pepper, and green olives.  The wine’s fresh character with lemon and mineral notes matches the salad’s freshness. The vinaigrette is light enough not to overpower the medium acidity in the wine. The creamy cannellini beans complement the smooth texture of the wine. Finally, the tuna is in balance with the weight (13.5% abv) of the wine.

Shrimp Risotto with Peas and Mint

My second pairing a Shrimp Risotto with Peas and Mint. The fresh elements of mint, spring peas, and lemon harmonize with the freshness of the wine. The creamy richness of the risotto and the mineral notes of the shrimp highlight similar notes in the wine.

Print

Italian Tuna Salad

A light summer dinner to pair with a glass of Italian Arneis from Piemonte.

Course Main Course, Salad

Cuisine Italian

Keyword Italian Tuna Salad

Servings 4

Author Jane, adapted from "Trattoria," Patricia Wells

Ingredients

• 7.76 oz White Tuna in olive oil, drained I used Ortiz tuna --it comes in a glass jar
• 4 medium celery hearts, thinly sliced
• 1 red bell pepper, chopped
• 3/4 cup cannellini beans, cooked and rinsed
• 1/3 cup green olives , sliced
• 1/4 cup Italian parsley, chopped
• 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• 4-5 handfuls mixed salad greens, including radicchio

Instructions

• In a jar mix the extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt and pepper. Set aside.
• In a medium bowl add the tuna and flake it with a fork. Add the celery, red bell pepper, cannellini beans, olives, and parsley. Gently mix. Add just enough vinaigrette to moisten the tuna and vegetables.
• In bowl, add the mixed greens and toss with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens.
• To serve, divide the mixed greens between 4 shallow bowls. Top the vegetables and tuna mixture between the 4 bowls. Drizzle with a little more vinaigrette.

Print

Shrimp Risotto with Peas and Mint

Course Main Course, Main Dishes and Wine Pairings, Seafood

Cuisine Italian

Keyword Shrimp Risotto with Peas and Mint

Servings 6

Author Jane, adapted from "Lush Life," Valerie Rice

Ingredients

Sautéing the Shrimp

• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons butter, chilled
• 1½ lb. shrimp, uncooked, peeled and deveined I used Costco Wild Argentine Red Shrimp 20/40 shrimp per pound.
• 1 lemon, zested and juiced

For the Risotto

• 8 cups Low Sodium Chicken Broth
• 3+ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup shallots, finely minced
• 2 cups Vialone Nano Rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 cups fresh garden peas or frozen organic petite peas
• 1/4 cup butter, chilled, cut into 4 pieces
• 1 cup Reggiano Parmigiano, freshly grated, divided
• mint leaves for garnish

Instructions

• In a large pot add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer.
• Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan melt 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Add the shrimp sauté until pink and cooked through. Add zest and juice from one lemon. Set aside.
• In a large bottomed high sided pot ( I used an enameled cast iron Le Creuset round 8 qt pot), heat 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and sauté until translucent, 3-5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the rice. Stirring to mix and coat the rice. When the rice is opaque and makes a faint popping sound about 2-3 minutes add the wine. Stir until the wine has evaporates about 1-2 minutes.
• With a large ladle, add about one cup of broth and stir continuously, until the broth has almost evaporated. Continue to add more broth one cup at a time until it is nearly cooked off before adding the next cup. Near the end, the risotto will look soupy but keep stirring. The entire process takes about 15-20 minutes. After you have added all the broth, remove the pot from the burner. Stir in the peas, shrimp, and cold butter. Add 1/2 cup grated parmigiano.
• To serve, portion in bowls and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of parmigiano. Garnish with mint leaves.

Sources Used:
Folio Wine
Wine Scholar Guild

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Chasing the winter blues away with a bowl of Turkey Sweet Potato Chili paired with Côte de Brouilly Beaujolais. It’s that time of year when I step outside and exclaim, “Baby, it’s so cold out here!” I just want to hibernate inside and cook up some comforting food. So how do you get the “comfort” without the heavy, weighty feeling of comfort food? Turkey Sweet Potato Chili is a lighter version of a traditional chili, substituting ground turkey for beef and adding good-for-you ingredients like sweet potatoes, quinoa, cilantro, and black beans. What better wine to pair this lightened-up chili than a low-tannin, fruity, and spicy Beaujolais Cru like Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly.  As Karen MacNeil says, ” Beaujolais is fruit and joy.”

Côte de Brouilly Beaujolais 

Côte de Brouilly is one of the ten distinctive Beaujolais Crus found in Northern Beaujolais. Côte de Brouilly earned its appellation status for its unique terroir and for producing quality wines. The vineyards are planted on the dormant Mont Brouilly volcano’s slopes and are surrounded by the vineyards of the larger Brouilly Cru.

Chateau Thivin

Château Thivin is the oldest estate on Mont Brouilly, dating back to the fifteenth century. The Geoffray family purchased the château in 1877 with two hectares of land. The estate has been passed down and is now in the 6th generation of the Geoffray family.

The certified organic vineyards for this wine are located on steep slopes with a 48% grade and have South, East, and Southeast exposures. The grapes are hand-harvested, traditional whole-cluster vinification, fermented for 6-12 days, and aged in oak foudres for 6 months before bottling.

Sources Used: Château Thivin and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant

Wine Tasting Notes

2023 Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly
13.5% abv | $37.00 Wholefoods | 100% Gamay

Fresh, fruity flavors of wild strawberries and cherries with hints of peony, herbs, minerals, and pepper. The wine is well balanced with medium body, tannins, and acidity. 

Food Pairing Notes

I refrigerated the wine for about 30 minutes before serving it with the chili. The slight chill on the wine enhanced the fruity character and brightened the acidity. The juicy, fruity notes in the wine matched the sweet potatoes in the chili, while the turkey, beans, and spices brought out the earthy components in the wine. The acidity of the tomatoes complimented the wine’s acidity. The overall weight of the wine and chili were in perfect balance. 

Shopping Links

Chili bowl from R. Woods Studio
Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Round Dutch Oven

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Mushroom Goat Cheese Pasta is the kind of food I want as summer has faded to fall. The temperatures don’t always reflect that seasonal change here in the south, but my mindset is firmly moving to the foods of fall.

I received an advance copy of “A Couple Cooks: 100 Recipes to Cook Together” by Sonja and Alex Overhiser of the food blog “A Couple Cooks.” I sampled a handful of recipes, but this mushroom pasta inspired me as fall sets in and summer lingers. While the mushrooms and pasta acknowledge the fall season, the goat cheese and white wine pairing still give a nod to those southern “summer” temperatures.

Wine Pairing

Graham Tatomer founded his winery in 2008 on California’s Central Coast with the tagline “California producer of dry riesling.”

Tatomer got his start in wine at 16, working at a Santa Barbara winery. His passion for wine grew. He moved to Austria and worked at Weingut Knoll, honing his knowledge of crafting Riesling and learning more about Grüner Veltliner. Today Tatomer produces Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and Pinot Noir. Tatomer Wines

A quote from the website:

“The sites that excite me have been the coldest ones, lending to wines of lighter weight, nuanced flavors, and bracing acidity. Riesling is the ultimate grape to pursue these characteristics. No other grape conveys its region’s character and varietal flavor with the power, focus, and beauty the way Riesling does. I have been fortunate enough to work with one of the oldest cold-climate Riesling sites still left in California, Lafond Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills. This site showed me that California’s coastal regions are cool enough for this grape variety.  I was hooked.”

 Wine Tasting Notes

2022 Tatomer Hinter der Mauer, Central Coast California
12.5% abv | $21.99 wine.com | 80% Grüner Veltliner and 20% Dry Riesling

Pale yellow in color with aromas of orchard fruit and citrus. On the palate, it is dry with flavor notes of green apple, lime zest, pear, wet stone, mint, and a hint of savory earthiness.

Food Pairing Notes

I adapted the recipe from “A Couple Cooks: 100 Recipes to Cook Together,” using fresh thyme leaves instead of sage, no truffle oil, and local fresh goat cheese with fennel and lavender. I felt a white wine like Tatomer’s Grüner Veltliner and Dry Riesling blend balanced the dish’s richness and met the tanginess and savoriness of the fresh goat cheese. The wine made for a good pairing with the acidity, freshness, and earthy notes. It was the perfect wine pairing as I transitioned to the flavors of fall while still feeling the temperatures of summer.

The Cookbook: A Couple Cooks: 100 Recipes to Cook Together

Disclosure: I received a copy of “A Couple Cooks: 100 Recipes to Cook Together,” as a media sample. All opinions are my own.

What is better than eating together? Cooking together, whether as a couple, family, or friends. A Couple Cooks: 100 Recipes to Cook Together brings the joy of cooking into the kitchen. The cookbook is organized by Everyday Dinners for 4, Meals for 2, and Gatherings for 4-8, with recipes for everyday, dinner parties, date nights, breakfast, baking projects, and cocktails. The photos will inspire you to plan your meals for the week ahead and nudge you enthusiastically into the kitchen to create delicious food to enjoy together. The cookbook is the perfect gift for newlyweds, college grads, parents teaching teens to cook, empty nesters, or couples looking for a date night menu. Release Date: October 15, 20024

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Fortress Marienberg overlooking the Main River and the famous Würzburger Stein Vineyard

Last Fall, I returned to a wine region I once called home, Franken (Franconia in English). I lived in Würzburg, the heart of the Franken wine-growing region. Here, steep hillside vineyards overlook the Main River. It is in Franken that my appreciation and love of wine began. Franken wines left a lasting impression on my wine-drinking palate. The wines produced here are primarily dry whites; Silvaner is the flagship variety, along with Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, White Pinot varieties, Bacchus, and Scheurebe, among other whites. Due to warming temperatures that help ripen the grapes, the rising red variety is Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).

Ann Krebiehl MW describes Franken wines perfectly (and why I am a fan) in her book, The Wines of Germany  – “Franken wines – Silvaner, Riesling, and Spätburgunder above all – are rarely loud.” They are subtle and nuanced, and therein lies their disarming and enduring beauty. Often slender, they convince with depth rather than power and are just like the landscape, illustrative of the soils.”

Vom Boden, a major U.S. importer of German wines, describes Franken wines as “famously, brutally dry” and “one thing is absolutely crystal-clear about Franconia, though: this is a region to watch.”  Vom Boden

My wine and food notes from Franken include visits to two wineries:  Weingut Hans Wirsching in Iphofen and Bickel-Stumpf in Frickenhausen.

Where is the Franken Wine-Growing Region

Franken is located in Northeast Germany and lies east of Frankfurt in Bavaria. Most of the 6100 hectares of vineyards are planted on south-facing slopes lining the Main River and its tributaries. Franken is bordered by the Rhön Hills in the north, the Steiger Forest in the east, the Tauber River Valley in the south, and the Spessart Hills in the west.

The region is divided into three districts:  Mainviereck (Main rectangle) to the west. Here, the soils are mainly red Buntsandstein (red sandstone).  The Franken heartland around Würzburg, Maindreieck (Main triangle), has primarily Muschelkalk soils (shell limestone). To the east, the Steigerwald has a low mountain range further from the Main river with Keuper soils (marl and limestone). 

map courtesy of wineguide.wein.plus

Weingut Hans Wirsching, Iphofen

Weingut Hans Wirsching is in Iphofen in the Bereich (district) of the Steigerwald. The estate dates back to 1630. The Wirsching success story begins in 1966 with the brothers Hans and Henrich Wirsching.

Hans (1921-1990) was an accomplished winemaker and cellar master. He is responsible for the trademark style – “fresh, reductive, elegant, and lean.” Heinrich (1933-  ) is a visionary and entrepreneur. Together, the brothers invested in prime vineyard locations, steep slopes, and a new production facility. Among the Wirsching vineyard holdings are the esteemed Julius-Echter-Berg, the Kronberg, Kammer, and Kalb.

Today, Heinrich remains the heart of the estate and family. He was even there on the day I visited. Today, his four children partner in the Weingut with Heinrich’s eldest daughter, Andrea, who is heading up the estate as general manager. Dr. Klaus-Peter Heigel is the winemaker. The estate is certified as a sustainable viticulture with “Fair’n Green,” which includes environmental protection, management, and corporate social responsibility. Glyphosate and insecticides are 100% banned from their vineyards, copper and artificial fertilizers. VDP member estate. Weingut Hans Wirsching

The Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg lies on the southwest side of the Schwanberg, a foothill of the Steigerwald. It is the hottest vineyard in Franken with a surface temperature of 70 degrees F. These Grosse Gewächse (Grand Cru) vineyards are south-facing with vineyard altitudes between 280-380 metres.

Wirsching Wines

A small selection of the wines I tasted on my visit.

Weingut Wirsching has just under 90 hectares of estate vineyards. A majority of the wines produced are dry whites, including Silvaner (40%), Riesling (20%), Scheurebe, White Pinot varieties (Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris), and about 15% of the wine production is red with a focus on Pinot Noir.

A quote from Wirsching’s website – “Silvaner – the Franconian, Riesling – the finest German grape variety, Scheurebe – the fruity specialty, Pinot – the future.”

Food and Wine Pairing

Wirsching currently offers two sparkling wines made using the traditional champagne method. A vintage Silvaner Extra Brut and the 2018 Heinrich Cuvée Prestige celebrating Dr. Heinrich’s 90th birthday.

2019 Hans Wirsching Silvaner Extra Brut
12.5% abv | 18,80 euros (approximately $20.50) | 100% Silvaner

A special cuvée of select Silvaner grapes with 36 months of lees aging in the bottle.

Tasting Notes: The wine is medium golden in color with fresh apple and pear aromas. On the palate, dry, with golden delicious apple and mineral notes and a creamy smooth texture.

Pairings: The perfect food wine. Appetizers of raw oysters highlighting the mineral notes, gougères (cheese puffs) stuffed with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and a fresh dill sprig, and Alsatian tarte flambée with smoky bacon and onion enhancing the brioche notes in the wine. But don’t stop sipping this sparkling with just appetizers; this wine will carry you through a meal of light fish or poultry and mild vegetable preparations with herbs.

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf, Frickenhausen

Matthias and Manuela Bickel-Stumpf

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf is the union of two family wine estates. In 1976, Remund Stumpf from Thüngersheim married Carmen Bickel from Frickenhausen. Both family wineries are located in the Bereich Maindreieck (Main Triangle) but on two different soil types:  Frickenhausen on Muschelkalk (shell limestone) and Thüngerheim on Buntsandstein (red sandstone). Bickel-Stumpf’s focus is Silvaner. Tasting their Silvaners from the different soil types is a excellent educational tasting experience.

Today, Carmen and Remund’s son Matthias and his wife Manuela manage the estate. Matthias is the winemaker, and Manuela is in charge of marketing and sales. VDP member estate. Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

A quote from Matthias Bickel-Stumpf – “For me, making wine is a thrill – and a pride. I want to accompany a product that brings people to the table and brings joy!”

The different soil types of Franken ; (left to right) buntsandstein (red sandstone), muschelkalk (shell limestone), and keuper (marl and limestone)

Vineyards overlooking Thüngersheim

Bickel-Stumpf Wine Tasting Notes

2019 Bickel-Stumpf Mönchshof GG,  Frickenhausen
13.5% abv | 36,00 euros (approximately $39.00) | 100% Silvaner

The south-facing Mönchshof vineyard is located on the steep slopes of the Main River at the edge of Frickenhausen. The light shell limestone soils reflect the sunlight and heat into the vines.

The wine is pale straw in color. Aromas of herbs, stones, pear, and lime. A rich mouthfeel on the palate with pear, Mirabelle, lime, minerals, and candied citrus peel. The finish is long with a clean elegance.

2019 Bickel-Stumpf Rothlauf GG, Thüngersheim
13.5% abv | 36,00 euros (approximately $39.00) | 100% Silvaner

The Rothlauf vineyard takes its name from a small gully at the steepest part of the Thüngersheim Johannisberg. The stony shell limestone soils are intermixed with the red sandstone that appears randomly at the surface. Here two geological formations from the Franconian Triassic period can be found side by side.

Pale straw in color. On the nose, aromas of herbs and minerals. On the palate, fine fresh acidity with a smooth mouthfeel and flavors of minerals, herbs, and lime. The finish is lean but elegant.

Food Pairing

I paired the Bickel-Stumpf Silvaners with a roasted trout with tomato, orange, and currant salsa. The trout complimented the wines with a similar weight, citrusy notes, a hint of sweetness, and earthy elements. Both Silvaners made for a lovely pairing with the trout – my favorite was the richer mouthfeel, mineral Mönchshof Silvaner.

Sources Used:
Weingut Hans Wirsching
Weingut Bickel-Stumpf
“The Wines of Germany,” Anne Krebiehl, MW

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Close your eyes and image it is August and you are in Provence. What do you see, smell, taste, and hear?

I see fields of sunflowers, groves of olive trees, vineyards, and overflowing stands of vegetables at farmer’s markets. I smell fragrant aromas of thyme, rosemary, lavender and the salty air of the Mediterranean Sea. I taste refreshing bright Provence Rosés, just picked tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, olives, olive oil, and fresh goat cheese. And I hear cheerful voices that are relaxing and enjoying summer in Provence.

This month the French Winophiles are dreaming of summer in Provence. Linda at My Full Wine Glass is our host, and you can be sure a taste of Provence with food and wine pairings will be my focus.

 Provence Food

Provencal food and cooking are centered around the produce and ingredients of the Mediterranean. The food traditions highlight the changing seasons, and the cuisine is simple but bursting with flavor. Classic dishes of Provence include; Bouillabaisse (a fish stew), Salade Nicoise, Ratatouille, Aioli, Tapenade, Soupe au Pistou, Chicken au Pastis, Olive and Rosemary Fougasse, Pissaladière (pizza-like), Daube (winter stew made from beef or wild boar), and Socca ( chickpea pancake) just to name a few.

Provence Wines

Provence is the oldest winemaking region on mainland France, dating back over 2600 years. 90% of the production is rosé, 5% is white, and 5% is red.

Provencal wine producers craft their rosé, white, and red wines in two specific styles. Vins de Soif are thirst-quenching wines. They are light in body, crisp, refreshing, and meant to be enjoyed as an aperitif. Vins de Gastronomie is deeper in color, fuller-bodied, and more structured. These wines are intended to be enjoyed with a meal.

White Grape Varieties
Varieties Native to Provence
Blanqueiron – neutral blending grape
Pascal – neutral, low alcohol
Picardan  – neutral, slightly musky, moderate acidity and alcohol
Varieties from South of France 
Bourboulenc – moderate alcohol and high acidity
Clairette Blanche – high alcohol and low acidity
Marsanne – high alcohol and moderate to low acidity
Picquepoul – moderate alcohol and high acidity
Roussanne – high alcohol and acidity
Terret Blanc – moderate alcohol and acidity
Viognier – high alcohol and moderate to low acidity
Varieties from other regions of France
Chardonnay – high alcohol, high extract, and low acidity
Sauvignon Blanc – moderate alcohol and high acidity
Sémillon – high alcohol, high extract, and moderate to low acidity
Varieties from Italy
Rolle – moderate alcohol and acidity
Ugni Blanc – moderate alcohol and acidity
Varieties of unknown origin
Grenache Blanc (Spain or Sardinia) – high alcohol and low acidity
Muscat à Petits Grains (Greek or Italian) – high alcohol, high extract, good to high acidity
Pignerol – banana and honey flavors, trending down
Spagnol – white table grape and trending down

Red Grape Varieties
Varieties Native to Provence
Braquet – light pigment, aromatic, and bright acidity
Folle Noire – blending grape for pigment and tannin
Varieties from Southern France
Calitor – low pigment and alcohol
Cinsault – moderate to low pigment, low tannin, and moderate acidity
Clairette Rose – high alcohol and low acidity
Counoise – low pigment and tannin and good acidity
Syrah – high pigment and tannin with moderate alcohol and acidity
Terret Noir – high acidity and aromatic
Varieties from other regions of France
Cabernet Sauvignon – high pigment, tannin, and acidity with moderate alcohol
Varieties from Spain
Carignan – high pigment, tannin, and acidity
Mourvèdre – high pigment, tannin, acidity, and alcohol

Nine Main Provence AOCs

courtesy of WineFolly.com

1. Côtes de Provence AOC – The largest AOC in Provence, it accounts for 75% of all the wine produced in Provence. Production is 90% rosé, 7% red, and 3% white.
2. Coteaux d’ Aix-en-Provence AOC – This is the second largest AOC in Provence. Approximately 84% of production is rosé, 11% red and 5% white.
3. Les Baux de Provence AOC – Les Baux de Provence is noted for the high number of organic and biodynamic producers. Red wine production leads at about 57%, rosé 39%, and white at 4%.
4. Coteaux Varois en Provence AOC – Here production is 88% rosé, 9% red and 3% white. Limestone hills and mountains protect the AOC. The region’s higher elevation produces more powerful rosés.
5. Palette AOC – This is the smallest AOC in Provence. Production is 44% red, 37% white, and 19% rosé.
6. Cassis AOC – The vineyards of the Cassis AOC are between the sea and the Massif des Calanques (high, deeply creviced limestone cliffs) that protect the vines from the Mistral. It is the only AOC in Provence that produces primarily white wine at 67%, 30% rosé, and 3% red. White Cassis is mainly a Marsanne-Clairette blend.
7. Bandol AOC – Most vineyards are on or near the Mediterranean coast. Bandol is one of Provence’s oldest wine-growing regions. After phylloxera hit in the 1880s, Mourvèdre became the region’s essential grape variety. Production in Bandol is 60% rosé, 30% red, and 10% white.
8. Bellet AOC – This AOC produces equal amounts of rosé, red, and white wines.
9. Coteaux de Pierrevert AOC This is the newest AOC in Provence and the most northern. The average altitude is about 1500 ft and has strong alpine influences. The wine style is more like the wines of the Rhône Valley. The production is 60% rosé, 30% red, and 10% white.

My Wine tasting Notes

2021 Sainte-Magdeleine Rosé, Côtes de Provence
13% abv | $32.00 Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant | 35% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah

• Côtes de Provence AOC
• “La Ciotat” vineyard is located halfway between Cassis and Bandol near the Mediterranean Sea
• 4.5 ha. of vineyards planted 1979-1999 with an average age of 30 years
• Soils are clay and limestone
• Organic certified

Medium(-) salmon in color. Aromas of red fruit, citrus, and thyme. On the palate, medium bodied and acidity. Notes of red berries, wild herbs, orange, a hint of peach, and a savory saline minerality finish. A refreshing rosé ideal for sipping and pairing with food. This is summer in a glass with images of Provence.

2021 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Blanc, Cassis
13% abv | Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant | 40% Marsanne, 30% Ugni Blanc, 25% Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc

• Cassis AOC
• 9 ha. of vineyards planted in 1972-2009 with an average age of 40 years
• Soils are clay and limestone
• Aging in stainless steel tanks and 2- 500L demi-muids on fine lees until spring or early summer, with no fining or filtration
• Organic certified

Medium yellow in color. Aromas of sea salt and wild herbs. On the palate, medium bodied and acidity. Notes of citrus, white peach, and saline minerality with a fennel finish. The texture is smooth and envelops the mouth with layers of flavors.

Taste of Provence Food and Wine Pairings

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Summer Roasted Vegetables with Socca

Roasted summer vegetables à la ratatouille is easier than the traditional method; served on top of the Provencal chickpea pancake, socca is a beautiful appetizer paired with a rosé from Provence.

Course Appetizer

Cuisine French

Keyword Summer Roasted Vegetables with Socca

Servings 4

Author Jane, adapted from "Veg Forward," Susan Spungen

Ingredients

• 1 small Japanese eggplants (4 oz.) cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
• 2 small green zucchini (10 oz. total) cut into 1/2-inch thick rounds if your zucchini is larger, quarter the zucchini before cutting into 1/2-inch thick pieces.
• 1 large sweet bell pepper cut into 1/2-inch thick strips
• 1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch thick rings
• 2 large garlic cloves, thinly slices
• 2+ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil + 2 teaspoons for tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon Kosher sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half
• 2 thick socca (recipe follows)
• 4 oz. fresh soft goat cheese
• flaky sea salt
• 10 basil leaves, torn
• extra virgin olive oil for a finishing drizzle

Instructions

• Preheat the oven to 425℉ with the oven rack in the middle.
• Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Add the eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onion, thyme, and garlic to the baking sheet. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over the vegetables and toss to coat them. In a small bowl add the cherry tomatoes and toss with 2 teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil and side aside.
• Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and roast for 25 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and turn and toss the vegetables around. Add and mix in the tomatoes with the rest of the vegetables. Return the baking sheet to the oven and roast for another 10-15 minutes
• Warm the socca in a hot oven on a baking sheet. Transfer the warm socca to a serving plate or large wooden cutting board. Sprinkle the crumbled goat cheese evenly over the socca and top with the warm roasted vegetables. Sprinkle with flake salt, basil, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

  To serve; cut into wedges.

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Lemon Chicken with Fennel, Olives and Herbes de Provence

An easy and elegant dinner with flavors of Provence and paired with a Cassis Blanc.

Course Main Dishes, Main Dishes and Wine Pairings

Cuisine French

Keyword Lemon Chciken with Fennel, Olives, and Herbes de Provence

Servings 4

Author Jane, adapted from "La Vie Rustic," Georgeanne Brennan

Ingredients

• 2 medium fennel bulbs with fronds reserve the fronds to use as a garnish
• 2 lemons, halved then cut each half into three wedges
• 1 teaspoon Kosher sea salt
• 6 chicken thighs, with or without skin
• 3 large garlic cloves, minced
• 1-½ teaspoon Herbes de Provence
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• grated lemon zest from one lemon
• 1/4 cup green olives, pitted

Instructions

• Cut the fennel bulb in half lengthwise. Cut each half into three wedges.
• In a large bowl, add the lemon wedges and sprinkle with salt. Add the chicken thighs, garlic, Herbes de Provence, and pepper. Turn and mix the ingredients. Set aside for 30 minutes for the flavors to infuse the chicken.
• In a heavy bottom Dutch oven (I used a Le Creuset) heat 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering and hot, add the chicken thighs (reserving the lemon, garlic and Herbs de Provence in the bowl) and sauté for about 5 minutes on each side or until lightly browned. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
• Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil to the Dutch oven and add the fennel. Reduce the heat to medium and sauté, stirring the fennel for about 8-10 minutes or until tender. Add the lemons, garlic, and Herbes de Provence and stir to combine. Add the wine and 1/2 cup of water to deglaze the pan. Return the chicken to the pot and cover. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 45 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
• To Serve: Garnish with the fennel fronds, lemon zest, and green olives.

Sources: Wine Scholar Guild, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Wine Folly

More Summer in Provence from the French Winophiles~

• “Wishing I were spending Summer in Provence with a Roche Bellemont Rose” on A Day in the Life on the Farm
• “Summertime Lobster Roll and a Provence Rosè” on Our Good Life
• “Summertime and the Living is Easy. Especially in Provençe” on Side Hustle Wino
• More than Rosé: Pairing a Provençal Red with a Smoked Paprika-Rubbed Pork Chop on Culinary Cam
• “A Taste of Provence: Food and Wine Pairings” on Always Ravenous
• “French Rosé Wine from Provence and beyond” on Wine Predator
• “Mourvèdre rules Bandol vineyards during summer in Provence” on My Full Wine Glass

The post A Taste of Provence: Food and Wine Pairings appeared first on Always Ravenous.

Sometimes, but not always, I lean more toward drinking white wine. Lately, a glass of white wine is in my hand. Maybe it’s the sweltering temperatures many of us are coming off of from the month of July. When Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles challenged the Wine Pairing Weekend group of writers to create “Unexpected White Wine Pairings,” I was ready to mix up my go-to white wine and food pairings with something more unexpected.
Curry Lamb paired with Viognier makes perfect sense as a food and wine pairing. At first thought, lamb would suggest a red wine pairing—something like a Syrah. As the wine pairing “experts” say, it’s not just the ingredients in a dish that drives the pairing, but also cooking methods and sauces.

Why Lamb Curry Paired with Viognier Works

Viognier is known for its luscious aromas of peach, apricot, nectarine, honey, musk, tangerine, citrus blossom, violet, acacia, cardamon, and minerals. In comparison, curry is a blend of fragrant spices like ginger, cumin, coriander, and turmeric.  Viognier and curry make for delicious aromatic pairing partners.
The cooking method of braising the lamb develops layers of flavors and a rich texture that matches the round body and mouthfeel of a flavorful Viognier.

My Wine Tasting Notes

2019 Michael Shaps, Viognier, Virgina
13% abv | $30.00 (2021 current vintage) Michael Shaps | 93% Viognier and 7% Riesling

Monticello AVA
100% stainless steel and aged 7 months
405 cases produced

Pale yellow in color. On the nose fresh inviting aromas of citrus, floral, and a hint of anise. On the palate medium body and acidity. Notes of citrus, nectarine, and anise. A clean tasting balanced wine.

2020 Maison Les Alexandrins, Viognier, France
13% abv | $15.00 (2022 current vintage) wine.com | 100% Viognier

Vin de France – vines at altitude mainly on the Coteaux d’Ardèche
100% stainless steel

Pale straw in color with a green hue. On the nose aromas of lemon-lime, pear, peach, and minerals. On the palate medium(-) body and acidity. Notes of pear and Meyer lemon with an unpleasant taste in the finish.

2018 Domaine Chirat Condrieu “Les Chays,” Viognier, Northern Rhône France
13.5% abv | $67.00 Total Wines |100% Viognier

Vineyard soils are 50% granite with biotite and 50% granite with muscovite
Hand harvested and whole bunch pressed
Barrel fermented with no malolactic fermentation
12 months of oak aging; 50% 500 L barrels, 50% 25 HI Austria Fouder and 10% new oak

Medium yellow in color with a hint of gold. Beautiful aromatics leap from the glass; honey, peach, ginger, tangerine, and a hint of mint. On the palate medium/medium(+) body and medium acidity. Floral notes with peach, apricot, acacia honey, ginger, and a hint of bitter orange and mint. A delightful example of  French Viognier from the Northern Rhône.

Which Viognier did I like the best with the lamb curry?

Viognier’s grape variety has a general taste profile, but where the grapes are grown and how the wine is vinified can result in very different wines.

Domaine Chirat Condrieu was my clear favorite with the lamb curry. The wine’s aromatics and flavors are layered and complex, and the fermentation and aging in oak of different sizes and ages results in a fuller and richer mouthfeel. These nuances contribute to making this my perfect pairing.

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Lamb Curry

Course Main Dishes, Main Dishes and Wine Pairings

Cuisine Indian

Servings 6

Author Jane, adapteted from "Patricia Wells at Home in Provence"

Ingredients

• 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 lbs. boneless leg of lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces, and removing excess fat
• kosher coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 medium white onions, thinly sliced
• 2-inch size pieces of ginger, skin removed and finely chopped
• 4 large cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 2 tablespoons ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon Aleppo Pepper flakes, medium hot
• 1 cup 2% Greek yogurt
• 1 large Granny Smith apple, grated
• cilantro, chopped - optional

Instructions

• In a large heavy dutch oven with a cover ( I used a Le Creuset pot), heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, brown the lamb - working in batches so the meat is not crowded. Adjust the heat as necessary to avoid burning the meat. When the lamb is browned on all sides about 10 minutes per batch, transfer to a platter with a tongs or large slotted spoon . Immediately season with salt and pepper. Repeat until all the lamb is browned, adding more olive oil as needed.
• Leave the remaining fat in the pot and adjust the heat to medium. Add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt. Stir the onions around to coat with the oil and scrape the bottom of the pot to loosen any browned bits from the meat. Cook for about 15 minutes or until the onions take on a golden color.
• Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Then add the cumin, coriander, turmeric, and Aleppo pepper flakes. Stir to combine. Add the lamb and any juices back to the pot, stir to combine. Add the yogurt, grated apple, and 1 cup of hot water, stir again to combine. The liquid should just cover the meat. Cover the pot and simmer gently for about 1½ hours or until the lamb is fork tender.
• Serve the lamb curry with Basmati rice and a French bistro carrot salad. Optional, garnish with cilantro.

More “Unexpected White Wine Pairings” from the Wine Pairing Weekend Group

Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “PBJ and Gewurtz? Say What?!!”

Cam of Culinary Cam shares “Pecorino Times Three: Two Cheeses and a Wine with a Lamb Burger”

Andrea of The Quirky Cork shares “Assyrtiko, Keftedes, and Salt”

David of Cooking Chat Shares “Grilled Filet Mignon with Mushrooms and White Wine”

Jane of Always Ravenous shares, “Lamb Curry paired with Viognier”

Gwendolyn Alley of Wine Predator shares“Yes, Sparkling Whites from Mendo’s Scharffenberger and Marche’s Mai Sentito Pair with Pizza!“

Robin (that’s me) of Crushed Grape Chronicles shares, “Sauvignon Blanc with Lamb and Cocoa?”

And Susannah with Avvinare shares “Pinot Grigio from Valadige and Shrimp with Green Sauce“

The post Lamb Curry Paired with Viognier appeared first on Always Ravenous.

Nicolas-Jay is the collaboration between two friends who love Pinot Noir. Jean-Nicolas Méo, owner and winemaker of Méo-Camuzet in the Côte D ‘Or, and Jay Boberg, music entrepreneur, and passionate oenophile, are cofounders of Nicolas-Jay. Their mutual interest in Oregon Pinot Noirs would eventually lead them to a partnership in the Nicolas-Jay Estate with the acquisition of Bishop Creek Vineyard in Willamette Valley in 2014.

This month the French Winophiles are exploring “French Wine Producers and Their New World Endeavors.” Cathie from Side Hustle Wino is our host. Scroll down for more articles from the #Winophile group of writers and bloggers. Join the Twitter chat, July 15th, 2023 at 11:00 AM  ET using hashtag #winophiles.

Nicolas-Jay – How it all Started

Jay Boberg and Jean-Nicolas Méo at Bishop Creek Vineyard
Photo courtesy of Nicolas-Jay.com

Jay and Jean-Nicolas became friends in 1988 when Jean-Nicolas was studying abroad in the United States. They shared many interests, including wine. Jean-Nicolas would return to Bourgogne to help run his family estate Méo-Camuzet. Jay would cofound seminal indie record label, IRS Records, and later become president of MCA Universal Records. Through the years, they remained friends. They both had a common interest in the potential and quality of Oregon Pinot Noirs. Jay had enjoyed Oregon Pinot Noir since 1983 and Jean-Nicolas since 1991 when he attended the International Pinot Noir Celebration in Willamette Valley.

Jay’s return visit to Willamette Valley in 2011 revitalized his interest in the region and inspired him to follow his lifelong passion for wine. He approached Jean-Nicolas about starting a small winery in Oregon together. Jean-Nicolas was intrigued to take his almost 25 years of winemaking experience at Meo-Camuzet and apply it to a new region, climate, soils, and vineyards. Nicolas-Jay was officially established in 2014 with the purchase of Bishop Creek Vineyard in the Willamette Valley.

Today Nicolas-Jay includes the organically farmed estate Bishop Creek Vineyard and 53 acres in the Dundee Hills.
Jean-Nicolas travels to Oregon, from his home in Bourgogne, for about two months each year, overseeing the viticulture and winemaking alongside Jay and Associate Winemaker Tracy Kendall.

For more information on Nicholas-Jay visit their website Nicolas-Jay

Nicolas-Jay Uniquely Oregon with an Old World Philosophy

Nicolas-Jay takes inspiration from Old-World wines, Jean-Nicolas’s experience at his family’s estate in Bourgogne, and crafts wines made with integrity for where the grapes are grown. There is savoriness, grace, and elegance to the wines.

– Nicolas-Jay Philosophy, as stated on their website
“We approach our winemaking with a steadfast belief in true artisanship, a passion for discovery and a deep respect for the land. We bring Burgundian traditions to our winemaking while aiming to express the natural elegance of Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
As stewards of the land, and passionate oenophiles, we endeavor to discover and reflect the unique terroir in our wine. Sharing our results makes the journey meaningful.”

My Tasting Notes

2018 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon
13.5% abv | ~$ 56.00 SRP | 100% Pinot Noir

The grapes are sourced from almost every AVA in Willamette Valley including: high-elevation Eola-Amity Hills, the foothills of the cool coastal range in McMinnville AVA, the warm red soils of the Dundee Hills and the Nicolas-Jay estate Bishop Creek vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton AVA.
Farming: Organic, Bio-Dynamic, and LIVE
Fermentation: Native Yeasts
Fining/filtration: None
Cooperage: 20% New French Oak

Medium ruby in color with aromas of fresh cherries and spices. On the palate good acidity with balanced fine silky tannins. Flavor notes of tart raspberry, cherry, orange zest, and cloves. The wine lives up to it’s Old World inspiration with elegance and a lingering savory finish.

My Food Pairing

I love these salmon cakes paired with the Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir, especially in the summer. If you can, use wild salmon (I made them with wild sockeye salmon). The recipe makes eight petite cakes for an appetizer or a light lunch/dinner.
The flavorful, rich salmon mixed with herbs and other earthy components match the same elements in the wine. The overall weight and elegance of the pairing are in harmony.

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Salmon Cakes

These salmon cakes are a fun summertime appetizer made with wild salmon and can be prepared ahead of time and baked off just before serving.

Course Appetizer

Cuisine American

Keyword Salmon Cakes

Servings 4 as an appetizer

Author Jane, adapted from"From the Earth to the Table," John Ash

Ingredients

Salmon Mixture

• 4 oz. fresh wild sockeye salmon, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 2 oz. fresh wild sockeye salmon, very finely chopped
• 2 oz. uncooked shrimp, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 egg white, beaten
• 1 tablespoon celery, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon sweet red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon scallion, finely diced
• 2 teaspoons lemon zest
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon heaping mayonnaise
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• kosher sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Sautéing

• 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs
• mild extra virgin olive oil

Instructions

• In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the salmon mixture.
• Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions and form 8 mini cakes (cakes should be no thicker than 1-inch). Place the cakes on a parchment lined baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.
• Just before sautéing the cakes, coat the cakes with the breadcrumbs that you have seasoned with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan add the oil to a depth of 1/8-inch. Heat the oil over medium-high heat and sauté the cakes for about 3 minutes per side. The cakes should be golden brown on each side, adjust the heat accordingly.

Sources Used: Nicolas-Jay, Méo-Camuzet, Somm TV

More from the French Winophiles~

• French Roots in Dundee Hills: Drouhin Reds with Lacquered Baby Back Ribs by Culinary Cam
• La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir and Les Cadrans de Lassegue Saint-Emilion Grand Cru: Two Jackson Family Wines from Two Countries Paired with Pork Roast by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
• Maison Joseph Drouhin: From Beaune to the Dundee Hills by Food Wine Click!
• Southeast Asian Flavors  Sizzle at Domaine Carneros by Wineivore
• Tablas Creek Patelin De Tablas Blanc + a Recipe by Tablas Creek Vineyard by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• The Sun Never Sets on Chandon by Side Hustle Wino

The post For the Love of Pinot Noir: An American-French Partnership in Oregon appeared first on Always Ravenous.

If you like wines that express a sense of place, purity of fruit, minerality, elegance, character, and are food-friendly and reasonably priced – Alsace wines should be in your glass. Alsace wines are always on my radar for all these reasons. Recently I discovered the wines of Domaine Mélanie Pfister under the helm of the 8th generation Mélanie Pfister.

Domaine Mélanie Pfister

Domaine Mélanie Pfister is located in Dahlenheim, just west of Strasbourg, in the northern part of Alsace in the Bas Rhin department (meaning lower Rhine River – the Rhine River flows north to the Baltic). Wine Map of Alsace

While the Vosges Mountains, to the west, act as a rain shadow and barrier to cooler weather in the southern part of Alsace, the climate is cooler in Dahlenheim at Domaine Pfister. The Vosges Mountains lay further away from the Pfister vineyards, providing less protection from cold and rain. The soils in this northern area are mainly marl and limestone, including Muschelkalk; the terroir is ideal for Riesling. Mélanie and her father, who still plays an active role, farm 25 acres of vineyards; 25% are Riesling.

Mélanie officially took over leadership at the Domaine in 2006 after internships at notable estates like Zind-Humbrecht (Alsace), Méo-Camuzet (Burgundy), Château Cheval Blanc (Saint Emilion), Château d’Yquem (Sauternes), and Craggy Range (New Zealand).

Timeline Under Mélanie Pfister Leadership

• 2005 – Mélanie crafts the first “Cuvée 8” (now called Mel), a blended wine to commemorate that she is the eighth generation to make wine at Domaine Pfister)
• After the 2010 harvest – Breaks ground on a new cellar
• 2018 – Decides to farm 100% organically
• 2019 – Introduces a new label design that gives each wine an acronym deriving from its vineyard name and adds her name to the domain name
• 2021 First certified organic vintage

Domaine Mélanie Pfister’s Wine Styles

Typically, 15 different wines are made each year. The wines are fermented dry and bottled with a minimum addition of sulfur. Indigenous yeast is preferred; however, Mélanie does reserve the right to use non-aromatic cultured yeasts in problematic years. The wines are made and aged in tanks except for the higher-end Pinot Noir “Rahn” and Pinot Gris “Silb,” which spend time in wood. The base wines spend almost a year aging on their lees, and the upper-range wines age 18-24 months before bottling. Average production is about 5000 cases annually.

In 2012, Mélanie wrote the following about her family’s style of wine –
“The house style appeared itself as the style of wine my parents and grandparents like to drink: aromatic, well-balanced, rather dry style of wines. As a matter of fact, my grandfather used to say, “Finally, I am probably the one who drinks the most of my wines, so I craft the wines I like!” – no concession he like dry wines.”

Tasting and Food Pairing Notes

Domaine Pfister’s wines are imported with Vintage ’59 Imports. Check the website for distribution and request the wines at your local wine shop. 

2019 Mélanie Pfister Breit Blanc de Blanc, Extra Brut, Alsace France
12.5% abv | $28.00 SRP | 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc

“Breit” comes from Hangenbriete, the name of the vineyard. Mélanie’s father first made crémant in the early 1980s. The wine ages on its lees for at least 24 months (most French crémant spends only nine months on its lees). Depending on what vintage you have, there are three to four disgorgements of a given year’s crémant, actual lees aging could be up to 36 months. This wine spent 29 months on its lees. It is a single vintage wine without any older reserve wine additions. The annual average production is 800 cases. The dosage is 3-4 grams per liter.

My Tasting Notes: The Breit Crémant is a delightful and elegant wine. The lively, fine bubbles and balanced fresh acidity, in combination with notes of orchard apples, citrus, chalk, and minerals, deliver a well-structured wine with a flavorful lingering finish.

Food Pairings: Ideal as an aperitif and with appetizers. The wine can easily carry through to entrees of light seafood, and poultry, fried chicken, and sushi.

My Pairing: A Charcuterie Board of triple crème brie, Ossau-Iraty, prosciutto, salami, cucumbers, strawberries, blueberries, Marcona almonds, and fig jam. Inspiration from That Cheese Plate Will Change Your Life.

2020 Mélanie Pfister Paar, Alsace France
12.5% abv | $24.00 SRP | 50% Pinot Blanc and 50% Auxerrois

“Paar” is German for pair, the two varietals in the wine. The vineyard is about six acres on mainly clay soils. The vines were planted by Mélanie’s grandfather and father in 1973 and ’74, with a small portion dating back to the 1960s. The Pinot Blanc gives freshness, floral notes, and moderate acidity. The Auxerrois contributes fat and spice to the blend. The annual average production is 500 cases. The current vintage is 2021.

My Tasting Notes: This is an easy everyday wine. The first encounter is the beautiful citrus, floral, and mineral aromas. On the palate, freshness with welcoming acidity and flavors of lime and minerals. The texture is supple with a long lingering finish.

Food Pairings: The perfect aperitif wine and one to accompany simple dinners of salads, pasta, poultry, and fish.

My Pairing: A twist on a classic French bistro salad, Smoked Salmon Potato Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette (recipe below).

2018 Mélanie Pfister Berg Riesling, Alsace France
13% abv | $35.00 SRP | 100% Riesling

“Berg” is another German word meaning mountain; the grapes come from hillside vineyards—the Pfister estate farms six plots of Riesling totaling just over three acres of vines. The soils are a clay-limestone mix, locally known as “Muschelkalk, a geological term referring to the middle Triassic period. The clay gives Riesling its body, and the calcareous limestone provides finesse, focus, and length to the wine. The annual average production is 900 cases. The current vintage is 2021.

My Tasting Notes: Citrus, minerals, and orchard fruit aromas are followed by bright acidity on the palate with flavor notes of citrus, peach, apple, salinity, and minerals. The texture is chalky with a nice lingering finish.

Food Pairings: This wine pairs lovely with chicken or pork, sautéd apples or peaches, sole with herbs and a light lemon sauce, or a classic Alsatian braised sauerkraut with mixed meats.

My Pairing: Chicken Curry Bowl with snow peas, mango, and a squeeze of lime (recipe below).

Sources Used: Vintage ’59 Imports and The New French Wine, Wine Scholar Guild

Previous Food & Wine Adventures in Alsace on Always Ravenous – Women Behind the Wine: Domaine Weinbach, Catherine Faller, Tips & Recipes for Alsace Pairings, Crémant d’ Alsace Paired with Summer Fish Menus

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Smoked Salmon Potato Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

Course Salad, Side Dish

Cuisine French

Keyword Smoked Salmon Potato Salad

Servings 8

Author Jane, adapted from, "Plat du Jour," Susan Herrmann Loomis

Ingredients

• 3 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
• 3 (divided) teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 4 tablespoons shallots, thinly slices
• 1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive oil (medium) I like "California Olive Ranch," Global Blend
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium red onion, about 4 oz. thinly sliced
• 6 oz. cold smoked salmon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup Italian parsley, chopped

Instructions

• In a large saucepan, add the potatoes and cover them by 2-inches of cold water. Add 2 teaspoons of the kosher salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until almost tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes.
• Optional - Soak the red onion slices in cold water for about 10 minutes to remove some of the sharp bitterness. Drain well and dry, before adding them to the salad.
• While the potatoes cook, whisk the vinegar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, mustard, shallots, black pepper, and extra virgin olive oil in a large serving bowl.
• When the potatoes are just cool enough to handle, slice them in 1/2-inch thick rounds and gently fold them into the vinaigrette. Fold in the red onions and smoked salmon, and parsley. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.

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Curry Coconut Chicken with Sugar Snap Peas, Mango, and Lime

Course Main Course, Main Dishes and Wine Pairings

Cuisine American

Keyword Curry Coconut Chicken

Servings 4

Author Jane, adpated from "What's Gaby Cooking"

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium white onion, finely chopped
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1-½ lb. chicken breasts, boneless and skinless, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons curry powder, mild
• 1 15-oz can tomatoes, diced
• 1 13.5 oz. can coconut milk, full fat
• 1 teaspoon tomato paste
• 1-1/2 cups sugar snap peas
• 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt
• limes, cooked brown rice, cilantro, slices of fresh mango

Instructions

• Preheat a large sauté pan with olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and red bell pepper, sauté for about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 30 seconds longer.
• Add the chicken and curry powder, sauté and stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes until golden.
• Add the can of tomatoes, coconut milk, tomato paste, and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer until chicken is completely cooked and liquid is thickened. Add the sugar snap peas and stir for another 2 minutes. Taste and adjust for salt.
• Serve in individual shallow bowls. Spoon chicken over the brown rice and garnish with chopped cilantro, a squeeze of lime juice, and mango slices.

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