AlwaysEating

Brooklyn Eats Recap

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 23:30:00 +0000

Last week, the 12th Annual Brooklyn Eats festival was held at the Brooklyn Navy Yard while the wind and rain swirled around outside. A somewhat difficult venue to get to, once inside there was plenty to keep guests busy. As mentioned in an earlier post, there were dozens of restaurants, bars and other vendors here to provide a well-rounded taste of Brooklyn. From soul food to slow-roasted ribs there was plenty of variety. Unfortunately, living in Brooklyn I was a little underwhelmed by the quality of the food. It didn't seem representative of all the great food available in this food-centric borough. A few top notch restaurants like Buttermilk Channel and Palo Santo were participating, but what about the top spots in Park Slope, Williamsburg, Carrol Gardens and beyond? A number of Mexican and soul food spots provided unnecessary repetition, but when it came to dessert I welcomed the many confections available.

I made my way through the somewhat confusing two floor layout, sampling a good amount of the savory dishes and chatting away with some of the chefs and owners. My clear cut favorite was Buttermilk Channel's Cider-glazed Baby Back Ribs with Housemade pickles. The tender, fall-off-the-bone rib seemed to be a crowd favorite and I personally thought the accompanying bread and butter pickles were delicious. More tasting notes below:

Abigail Cafe and Wine Bar: Mini Meatballs with Roasted Squash and Pomegranate Glaze. The meatballs were good, but nothing spectacular and the squash was too mushy.
Bussaco: Duck Confit and Brussels Sprout 'Bubble and Squeak.' Tasty, tender, but underseasoned. More importantly, new chef, Kevin Adey is preparing his own charcuterie, has lowered prices and plans for future beer dinners.
Fonda: Mollette con Adobo (essentially a rich, braised pork). Quite spicy, with a deep smokey flavor. This dish made me want to check out the restaurant.
Palo Santo: Bluefish Tacos. Delicious tacos, but suffered from the ridiculous amount of oil from the fish and braising liquid, rendering the freshly made tortillas soggy and broken.
Scottadito Osteria Toscana: Proscuitto Sfizi. Unfortunately, this was the worst bite I had all night, so bad I actually spit it out. Impossible to chew with no bite to it whatsoever.
Umi Nom: Stir Fried Rice Noodles. A bit bland and disappointing compared to their Chinese sausage at another event a few months back.
Vue Restaurant & Lounge: Roasted Filet Mignon with Caramelized Onions, Bacon and Everything Crust. The same exact dish at the Metromix Hot Plates, not as good this time due to the temperature.
Waterfont Ale House: Southwest BBQ Turkey Meatloaf Slider with Corn-Black Bean Salsa. This bite looked promising, but was way too smokey. It was cooked with a smokey beer and way too much cumin was used for my taste.

As for the sweet stuff, everything I had was quite good. From the Red Velvet Cupcakes at The Cakeman Raven table, to the trio of sweet small bites from The Sweet Tooth (my favorite was the Red Velvet Cheesecake.) However, one dessert really stood out from all the rest, the "Big Apple" Trio from the New York City College of Technology culinary students. Three aspiring pastry chefs created this dish with the guidance of their professors and it was eye opening. A layer of apple cider pana cotta, pomagranate and apple (cobbler?) with a maple chip and financier to top it all off. The flavors of fall really came through in this dish and technically it was spot on. The event was topped off with a delicious scotch cocktail called the Spicy Pete from Clover Club and an array of beers from Shmaltz Brewing Company, Sixpoint and Brooklyn Brewery.

Thanks to the kind folks at the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce for putting together this event and having me as their guest. Additional photo recap below.

The King's Carriage House: Be Forewarned

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:59:00 +0000

I don't want to go into some lengthy bashing review of any restaurant, even when I can safely say I just had one of my worst dining experiences in NYC, but I feel the need to vent and hopefully save some future diners from a mistake. I've eaten at a wide range of places, from the corner deli to white linen, fine dining establishments, some meals excellent, others not so much. However, a recent family party (for 13) at the King's Carriage House on the UES left me in complete shock. Worried initially by the dated decor, empty restaurant and menu that seems to have been from 30 years ago I kept my composure and my hopes up. It was a family party anyway, time to celebrate, catch up and enjoy each others company.

Easier said than done unfortunately. From the seemingly out of the freezer hors d'oeuvres to the vinaigrette drenched salad with slimy poached pears, the meal was off to an unfortunate start. Topped off by gruff, clueless servers in an overly cramped room and I was crossing my fingers (as were other diners) that the entree and wine would make up for everything. Too bad for us. Overcooked Filet Mignon, duck breast with un-rendered skin, and pan-seared salmon that was probably the only thing done to a satisfactory state. To our astonishment the server never even asked anyone how they would like their steak prepared. Moreover, the duck, beyond overcooked, was served slimy skin side down on a bed of salty vegetables and cut in half to reveal just how poorly cooked it was. It was a scary example of improper technique and made me think the kitchen was devoid of all culinary knowledge. All topped off by overflowing wine that would have been better served in a dorm room than in a restaurant. Shocking for any restaurant, especially at this price.

We all persevered though, laughing, talking and putting aside the food (literally in my case). Of course the meal was topped off with being rushed out of the private dining area by those stern faced servers, but at the very least I can say I've taken one for the team. How this place has earned 4/5 stars on Yelp (only 5 reviews) and a score of 21, 25, 23 in the 2009 Zagat guide is beyond my comprehension, but it certainly begs the question, how much can you trust Zagat nowadays anyway?
251 E. 82nd Street, New York, NY 10028, 212-734-5490, Reservations - Probably Not Necessary, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($40-70/person)

Bill's Bar & Burger: Deserving of the Hype?

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 14:57:00 +0000

This year more than any past years has been all about burgers (and pizza and hot dogs). Everyone's favorite meal for lunch, dinner and anything in between. We've seen a $26 burger become all the rage at Minetta Tavern. Shake Shack released plans for world domination and burger mania from Burger Bashes to articles on the art and classification of burgers have filled the food media landscape. With that said, it's no surprise that Bill's Bar & Burger, from Steven Hanson's BR Guest Restaurants, was welcomed onto the scene with open arms. What is surprising is how quickly writers across the city are ready to claim it the best burger around, if not a close second. Of course, with this hype comes the desire to check it out, so last week I dropped in, after much back-and-forth tweeting with the restaurant (@billsnyc by the way). I met Wined & Dined as well as other eager burger fans, while Josh Ozersky just happened to be entertaining the Zagat's over burgers and beers.

The menu focuses on burgers, but you can also get a hot dog or grouper sandwich. Personally, I would find it difficult to order a fish sandwich amongst a sea of griddled meat patties and dogs, but apparently it is pretty good. We were seated in the back room, a very simply decorated space, with checkered tablecloths, flat screen TVs and no lingering stale beer smell from previous tenant, The Hog Pit. Our servers were surprisingly attentive considering how busy the restaurant was, but they were a bit too attentive. It became a bit awkward when we placed our order while two overly eager servers starred us down. Of course they were doing their job, but they can probably ease up just a tad and will likely do so as they get more comfortable.

Moving on, the burgers. We ordered the Sunset & Vine, Classic with cheese, Fries and Veggie Fries. The burgers are all cooked medium-well, a somewhat unfortunate cook temperature, but likely done since the burgers are just so thin it is hard to meet individual requests. As can be seen on Serious Eats, the burger is prepared with the smash technique, the process of taking the loosely packed ball of meat and smashing it against the griddle to really ensure a generous char. The burgers arrived, the Sunset & Vine with cheese, lettuce, tomato and special sauce all on a squishy sesame seed studded bun. The burger hangs over the edge of the bun and at first glance looks a little beat up. It's so thin that the edges are really just crispy bits of ground beef. Diving in, it was good. Great? Not at all. I tried it with the vegetables, then without. With some of the sauce on, with some of it taken off. When it came down to it, I just didn't get much meat flavor no matter what the combination. Was it tasty, absolutely. The saltiness of the beef and American cheese combined with the mayo-bbq sauce based special sauce all worked well, but I was left wanting more meat, particularly something more juicy as the thin patty was rather dry. Same feelings on the Bill's Classic with cheese. While the salt level was a little lower, this burger is the same as above without the special sauce, it was still lacking for me. Don't get me wrong, the burger was tasty and if in the area I would definitely come back, but this is no destination burger in my opinion.

The sides were also a bit frustrating. Simple fries, lightly seasoned were good, but far from great and underseasoned, bland and watery veggie fries. The latter, just a poorly executed version of vegetable tempura that couldn't be saved with ketchup or mustard. In addition, Disco Fries and Onions Rings are also available and may be the better choices. Looking to really go for the trifecta (and accurately make a Shake Shack comparison) we ordered up a Black & White Shake. The shake was quite delicious, served with extra wide straws it is easy to slurp this up quickly so be forewarned. Other offerings include Oreo, Peanut Butter Banana Fluff and a variety of alcohol infused versions.

While there were some major flaws for me with the burger and sides I would say Bill's is a legitimate stop, but not close to overtaking Shake Shack as the best burger in the city. Next time I visit Bill's I'll have to go for the Fat Cat, a gut-bomb of a burger, with two smaller patties, caramelized onions and American cheese all sandwiched between an English muffin (not my bun of choice). Certainly not a simple, understated burger that I generally opt for, but I can't imagine it doesn't taste good.
22 Ninth Ave., at 13th St., 212-414-3003, Reservations - Accepted, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($6-20/person)

(photo courtesy of Thrillist)

12th Annual Brooklyn Eats Festival is Tomorrow!

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:18:00 +0000

Looking for something to do tomorrow? Well if you like eating, drinking and Brooklyn head over to the Brooklyn Navy Yard for a chance to sample bites and beverages from a wide variety of Brooklyn establishments. Tickets are not cheap, running for $125 at the door, or $110 purchased prior here. The event begins at 6pm and ends around 8:30pm so scrap those dinner plans you had and join in on the fun. Per the press release participating restaurants, bars and vendors include:

Restaurants:

A Bistro, Abigail Café and Wine Bar, Abigail Kirsch Stage 6 at Steiner Studios, Abu’s Homestyle Bakery, A.O.C. Bistro, Aunt Suzie’s Restaurant, Bussaco, Buttermilk Channel, Café on Clinton, Cake Man Raven, Downtown Atlantic Restaurant, Fonda, Fresh Fanatic, Get Fresh Table and Market, La Stalla, Los Pollitos II, Madiba Restaurant, Magnolia Restaurant & Bar, Maria’s Mexican Bistro, Mazzat, New York City College of Technology’s Hospitality Management, Oaxaca, Palo Santo, Pilar Cuban Eatery, Provence en Boite, Scottadito Osteria Toscana, Soul Spot, Soul Sister Quisine, The Sweet Tooth, Tangs Natural, Trattoria Mangia, Trois Pommes Pâtisserie, Waterfront Ale House

Bars:

Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn Roasting Company, Brouwerij Lane, Clover Club, Gotham City Lounge, Hena Coffee, Sixpoint Craft Ales, Southern Wine and Spirits of New York, Michael-Towne Wines and Spirits

Institutions:

Brooklyn Artists Waterfront Coalition, Brooklyn Center for the Performing Arts, Heart of Brooklyn, Museum of Contemporary African Diasporan Arts, Patricia F. Robinson Music Studio, St. Ann’s Warehouse

Note: A portion of the proceeds will go to the Brooklyn Eats Scholarship Fund.

The Vanderbilt is Here to Stay

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 00:36:00 +0000

Prospect Heights is one of the burgeoning neighborhoods in Brooklyn. With new restaurants, bars and condo developments it is quickly becoming one of the new hot spots in the borough. Well, now with the addition of The Vanderbilt, Prospect Heights should be on everyone's map. The Vanderbilt, named after the street it resides on, Vanderbilt Avenue, is the second project from Michelin-starred chef, Saul Bolton of Saul in Cobble Hill. This huge corner restaurant has filled a spot previously occupied by a hardware store, but now remnants of the previous tenant are nowhere to be found. Officially opened this past Friday, we decided to give it a shot even though we are always weary of a restaurant on it's opening night.

Arriving around 7:30pm, the restaurant was already quite packed. The long, attractive bar sits on the right hand side, while small tables and banquet seating cover the left wall. Beyond the bar area, the open kitchen is revealed to a gorgeous marble bar top, where we ended up dining, and then a back room contains a quieter dining area. Seating somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-120 diners, this is huge by Prospect Heights standards, let alone anywhere in the downtown Brooklyn area. With a 20-30 minute wait on opening night, I can guarantee the neighborhood is excited about this addition.

In terms of food, The Vanderbilt's menu is all about sharing. The small plates range from $4-16 and provide a few bites to slightly smaller than a full portion of food (depending on your appetite). The menu is broken into a number of sections, such as Hors D'oeuvres, Charcuterie, Vegetables, Fish, Meat and Desserts. Based on the menu online and at the restaurant, it looks like things may change seasonally, or they may expand once they are at full capacity in the kitchen. For our meal we ordered 6 dishes, including the Orielles de Christ (Crispy Pig's Ears), Serrano Ham Croquetes, Duck Rilletes, Chicken Liver Pate, Smoked Jagerwurst and Grilled Spanish Octopus.

We were very pleased right off the bat with the food. The crispy pig's ears were like upscale pork rinds and came with a small pipet of pique, a fiery red hot sauce. Only about 5-6 an order, the $4 price tag is not bad for a quick snack. The croquettes ($7) were also delicious with their crispy exterior and creamy, porky interior. At 5 to an order, these little oval shaped bites were lightly covered with a delightful smokey aioli. At this point, with all of our dishes ordered and a few already down, we were quite impressed with the service. Even on opening night, with a crowded doorway and up to an hour wait, everyone kept their composure, a promising sign for the restaurant.

One thing that immediately excited me about the restaurant was the prospect of housemade charcuterie. No place in the area (with the exception of Franny's) does this, and The Vanderbilt quickly made us a fan with theirs. The smooth, rich pate ($8) was paired with pickled onions, a lightly dressed frisee salad and toast points. Not being a big pate fan, my girlfriend was in love with this dish, a great compliment to the restaurant. My favorite dish, however, was the rilletes ($12). Arriving in a jar, the portion is rather large and is accompanied by a deep purple fig jam and more toast. After scooping off the fat, we found ourselves eating the duck straight from the jar, it was just that good. One thing to note, you will need more toast, the 3 pieces we received were about half of what we actually needed. Last in our charcuterie adventure, was the jagerwurst ($10), one of the many sausages prepared in house. With a noticeable smokiness and heavy snap in the casing, this was one good sausage. A bit chewy on the inside, the pairing of German potato salad was perfect for this dish. The potato salad was coated in a grainy mustard and helped make this one of the more substantial dishes on the menu (a good option of you are looking to keep the cost down).

Last up, we ordered one non-meat dish, the octopus ($9). Perhaps an indicator of the strengths of the restaurant, or just a matter of our taste, this was our least favorite dish. The grilled octopus possessed none of the char I look for in grilled octopus and it was served, sliced, atop room temperature cranberry beans. While not an unsuccessful dish, I think it could have been much better. Next time we will look for another fish or vegetable dish to help offset the heavy intake of meat.

Trying to abstain from drinking much, we only had a glass of red ($5-12) and a sweet, refreshing Black Cherry Rickey ($9 for all cocktails). A well-rounded beer menu consists of 7 draft beers, all at $6 a pint, and 13 craft bottled beers from $7-17, including one of my favorites the Stone Ruination Imperial IPA 22oz ($10).

With such a well executed menu, affordable pricing and a simply gorgeous space, The Vanderbilt will definitely find quick success here in Prospect Heights. Considering it was opening night, I'm shocked to say this was one of my better dining experiences I have had in Brooklyn while living here for nearly 5 years. I was so impressed, I may just end up back next week.
570 Vanderbilt Ave, Brooklyn 11238, 718-62309569, Reservations - Not Accepted, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($30-50/person)

(photo courtesy of Metromix)

Meat Haven at Minetta Tavern

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:02:00 +0000

While I am a little behind in posting this review, nothing from my meal at Minetta Tavern has been forgotten. Since day one Minetta has been a hit, as well as a difficult reservation to come by. With Frank Bruni's 3-star review back in May the restaurant became even more popular and more difficult to get into. With a little help from one of my friends I was able to score a prime time reservation for my girlfriend's birthday a few weeks back.

Entering Minetta you feel as if you have immediately been transported to another time, if not only a place far away from the commotion that is Mac Dougal Street and the West Village. Yes, much of the decor remains from the original, but is polished. An attractive interior from the wood details, light fixtures and checkerboard floor. A packed bar provides an opportunity for a drink while waiting, or even a quick bite, while a few tables sit directly across the way. The first room of the restaurant is a crowded spot, so be prepared for a tight squeeze. My recommendation, try to sit in the back room as it is easier on the ears and a bit more spacious. Also note, if you have a reservation be prepared to wait a few minutes before being seated. We had a 7:30pm slot and were not seated till closer to 8pm.

Once seated we scanned the large drink menu, full of cocktails, wines by the glass or bottle, beer, scotch and other beverages. After a subpar cocktail at the bar, it was way too sweet, I opted for a glass of Oban, while my girlfriend chose a glass of red wine. A basket of room temperature Balthazar bread was placed on the table along with a creamy butter while we placed our orders. To start, the Salt Cod Stuffed Squid ($13), followed by the Dry Aged Cote de Boeuf for two ($96, but now $104) and a side of the Pomme Anna ($9). The squid arrived with piquillo peppers, olives and preserved lemon and made for a very satisfying starter. Tender and filled with a properly salty, creamy salt cod, we were both very pleased and loved the pairing with the preserved lemon. While we were enjoying the squid a server actually brought by our steak before it was cooked, a nice elegant touch.

After a second round of drinks were ordered the pièce de résistance arrived, a gorgeous platter of meat: 32 ounces of dry-aged ribeye and 3 hefty marrow bones. The steak had a wonderful char, but not as intense as one may find at Peter Luger's. Already sliced off the bone, there was a generous amount of fat running through the medium-rare steak, a bit too much for our taste as it meant less meat, but it was probably for the best. With the initial bite we both looked at each other in awe, our brows raised and mouths forming a faint smile. This was, and may be, the best steak we have ever tasted. Hard to directly compare to a steakhouse steak, it was tender, juicy and melted like butter in our mouths, but the char was perfect. With the addition of the pool of juices on the bottom of the plate and a spread of bone marrow across each bite, this dish IS a meat lovers heaven. Complimented by the ridiculously indulgent Pommes Anna this was pure delight. The potato side easily rose to my favorite side dish for steak, thinly sliced potatoes arranged in a cast iron skillet and baked, the crispy top revealed a luscious, buttery center. This dish didn't reach greatness from the potatoes, but rather all the butter used to prepare it.

After a rich, salty steak and potatoes we opted for the somewhat light Grand Marnier Souffle for two ($16). Choosing this over the chocolate souffle may have been a mistake, but it offered a slightly lighter alternative. The airy, puffed top gave way once our spoons hit it to a creamy center and was sweet with a strong essence of orange from the liqueur. It was definitely very good, but next time we go chocolate. To go with the souffle we ordered a glass of port and muscato respectively, both a fitting, sweet pairing to the meal.

The atmosphere, service and food all lived up to, and even exceeded, the hype in some cases. While a pricey endeavor, this was for a special occasion and it is definitely easy to cut some dollars off the bill if you watch your drinking. It sure is one of the hottest tables of the year, perhaps more for the hype and potential celebrity element, when actually it should be all about the food. I look forward to my next visit to Minetta where I'll surely be looking to order the burger (but will be tempted by the steak again).
9 Minetta St, New York, NY 10012, (212) 475-3850, Reservations - Absolutely Needed, Price - Expensive ($50-100/person)

(photo courtesy of MinettaTavern.com)

Little Limp at Veloce Pizzeria

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:04:00 +0000

Eager to try one of the many new pizzerias that sprouted up across the city in 2009 I ventured to Veloce Pizzeria, very much enjoyed by former NY Times critic Frank Bruni. With Sarah Jenkins, of Porchetta fame behind the menu I was excited to check it out. I had heard mixed reviews from friends and blogs, but overall Veloce was recommended. Known for their "personal" square pizzas with a crust somewhere between Sicilian and grandma style, each pie is about 12 inches. Depending on how hungry you are one pie can be split between two people or you can go all out and eat a whole one by yourself.

There are somewhere in the neighborhood of a dozen pizzas available and occasional specials, like the clam pie Bruni loved, are written on a chalkboard. In addition, a variety of salads and appetizers are available, ranging from a simple arugula salad to crispy fried calamari. We opted to start with the calamari, which was paired with a light arugula salad and lemon wedges. The calamari was lightly fried and paired well with the peppery greens and lemon juice. The lemon juice really brightened up the dish and brought it all together, making us forget that there was no official sauce available.

As for the pizza we chose the porchetta sausage topped pie, knowing that Chef Jenkins has a way with pork. The pizza arrived in the baking dish, cut into 4 generous slices. Taking advice from Adam Kuban on Slice, we took note to eat our pizza shortly after it arrived at our table as the crust quickly goes limp. Well, Adam was right, once we made it to our second slice it was easy to see the difference in consistency. Initially I enjoyed the crust, it was firm enough to provide a nice crunch without seeming overcooked. The topping was quite good, but seemed to be lacking something, salt perhaps? The rosemary and garlic were quite evident in the sausage. Once you get to the second slice there is a noticeable difference in the crust so be advised.

As for wine, you can order carafes beginning at $16 or bottles which go to $75 a bottle. Our carafe, while not remarkably tasty, was a steal at $16 for roughly 4 glasses.

Overall not the best of the new wave of pizzerias in the city, but certainly not the worst. Veloce Pizzeria suffers from the transition the pizza goes through once it is removed from the oven, but it is a worth a trip if you are looking for a non-Neapolitan pizza experience. Would I go back? Perhaps, but it is not a destination spot by any means.
103 1 Ave, New York, NY 10003-2951, (212) 777-6677, Reservations - Available, Not Needed, Prize - Moderate ($20-40/person)

Quick Bite: Chiles Rellenos Torta from Chavellas

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:00:00 +0000

Park Slope and Prospect Heights have been lacking quality Mexican restaurants, dominated by mostly bland, overly Americanized fare. However, Chavellas has become a neighborhood favorite, with their approachable, mostly authentic offerings, made with fresh, flavorful ingredients. Located on the outskirts of Prospect Heights, it doesn't get too much foot traffic, but they are open for lunch, dinner, brunch and deliver.

Stopping by a few weeks back for lunch I opted for a Chiles Relleno Torta ($7), thinking how could a pan-fried, cheese-stuffed chile sandwich not be good? Well I was right, this torta was not lacking flavor by any means. The slightly toasted soft roll had a smear of black bean spread and was topped with lettuce, tomato, a light tomato puree and of course the chiles rellenos. As you can see in the picture it is pre-sliced, making for a nice cross section shot, but allowing the cheese to ooze out onto the plate. It may be a vegetarian sandwich, but by no means is this a light endeavor. A filling lunch or hangover pleaser is more like it.

732 Classon Avenue, Brooklyn, NY, 718-622-3100, Price - Inexpensive ($6-10/person for lunch)

NYCWFF: Meatball Madness

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:28:00 +0000

Of course if consuming 12 burgers at Burger Bash on Friday wasn't enough for my body I pushed the limits even further and ventured into Meatball Madness last night. The new event, hosted by Giada De Laurentiis, attracted some of the most talented chefs in the city while the meat was provided by the meat masters at LaFrieda. In the same space as Sweet, the venue was well spread out allowing attendees to bounce back and forth with ease between the varieties of meatballs available.

You had fish, duck, turkey, beef, pork and lamb all rolled into thousands of the comfort food treat. From raw meatballs (yes raw) to meatball topped pizzas, this was easily a meatball lovers dream. That said, there are only so many meatballs one person can eat and although I wanted to taste them all I only made it through about a dozen or so (that was about half of what was available). Sharing the meatballs and only taking one bite was the only way I made it through even this many, but I definitely tasted enough to name my favorites. See below for a recap, with the restaurants listed alphabetically.

Abe & Arthur's - The pork meatball was well seasoned, but the spaetzle was way too gummy.
Butter - I initially loved the Pork & Beef Meatball topped pizza, but found it quite difficult to eat. The cheesiness was a welcome first bite though.
Convivio - Another well seasoned meatball it was accompanied by many components, including ricotta salata and olives making for a very salty bite. That won't sway me from heading to the restaurant though!
Felidia - One of the more interesting offerings, this was a meatball tartare served with crispy spaghetti.
The Harrison - A delicious, simple meatball. I could have eaten many of these (not pictured).
Hearth - A delicious veal and ricotta meatball that was lightly packed and one of my top bites of the night.
Little Owl - Always delicious, the always popular meatball slider was a fan favorite.
Locanda Verde - This lamb meatball slider was delicious, although I didn't like the cucumber slices which topped it. Regardless, it was the judges award winner and Andrew Carmilini walked away with a nice $5,000.
Josh Ozersky and Mike Cirino - With a great crunchy exterior and very juicy interior, I enjoyed this meatball, but wasn't crazy about the accompanying fonduta.
Perilla - Harold served up his well-known duck meatballs, one of my favorite dishes of the evening.
Salumeria Rosi - Somewhat dense, these meatballs were served on a bed of creamy polenta, but what I loved most from this table was the freshly sliced charcuterie.
SD 26 - An interesting take on a meatball slider, it was a mix of beef and eggplant, breaded, fried then topped with a peperonata, the bun however was too dense for my taste.

Overall a fun event, but there was only so much meatball talk and consumption I could take. After about an hour and change we left, finding out the winner later via tweetin foodies. And now I begin the meatless diet, if only for a few days to let my body full recover. For a photo recap see below.

NYCWFF: Grand Tasting Galore

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:31:00 +0000

The Grand Tastings are always a fun, accessible component of the food & wine festivals. Chefs from around New York City gathered on Pier 54 to serve small bites alongside wine and spirit brands with 2 sessions on Saturday (and another group on Sunday). Even at noon the tent was packed and chefs were quickly running short on food. In speaking with Patrick Connolly of Bobo he mentioned that he was told to prepare around 600 bites for each session, but he was almost through 1000 bites by 1:30pm.

Overall the food was good, with a few clear standouts, but also some major misses. My favorite included Bar Breton's Layered Crepes, a refreshing and light bite amidst a sea of heavier dishes. As well as Bar Blanc Bistro's Braised Pork with Fennel and Candied Pistachios, a wonderful combination of textures. A fried bite of feta from Pera was also quite tasty, but unfortunately all of the greens accompanying the dish flew off my plate in the wind. A somewhat less approachable, but delicious bite came from llili, where they fried up some lamb brains a la minute. As far as the less than stellar bites, it is really hard to judge a restaurant solely on a single bite mass produced for an event like this, but a few dishes really were not enjoyable. Asia de Cuba's little riblet was tough and somewhat cold, restaurant llili was serving 4 cuts of lamb and while I love cheek this one was just doused in an overly sweet cherry sauce, and Klee Brasserie's fried chicken was soggy and paired with an awkward lingonberry sauce. All things considered a successful tasting, surpassing last year's in terms of size and quality.

For a full photo recap see below!

NYCWFF: Sunday Update

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 22:01:00 +0000

Phew what a day. Finishing with a stop at Down South, Up North, the 212 industry party and drinking into the wee hours with the Next Iron Chef competitiors, I took it pretty easy today. This evening wraps with Meatball Madness and a few weekend finale parties. So far, great festival again, with an even more robust offering than last year.

NYCWFF: Midday Update

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 18:06:00 +0000

After an exhausting night last night of burgers, the whirlwind continues with a variety of events, tastings, etc.. Currently writing from the Eater Blogger Lounge in the Standard Hotel, I just finished up the rounds at the AM Grand Tasting. Surprisingly I was able to eat plenty of little small bites at the Grand Tasting, but stayed away from the booze, opting for the more responsible water. Photos from the tasting tent, which by the way was bigger than last year and filled with 800+ people, will be up tomorrow. Thanks to the good folks at Eater for the coffee, laptops and all around hospitality today.

NYCWFF: Burger Bash Hangover Recap

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 15:15:00 +0000

Ah Burger Bash, one of the biggest events of the New York City Wine and Food festival, it is purely a celebration of meat. With 20 or so chefs providing their spin on this ever popular dish, the burger, there were bound to be some hits and misses, especially when they were serving hundreds of hungry festival goers. Held at the Old Tobacco Warehouse, a stunning venue, the night was gorgeous as the rain clouds held off while smoke rose from every booth, filling the air with grilled and griddled burger aromas.

I managed to make my way through 12 burgers (and 1 hot dog), no small feat, and 2 more than I ate last year. I actually felt this year's batch of burger creations were for the most part, better than last year. Plenty of newcomers to the scene showed off their best, including April Bloomfield of the Spotted Pig, Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr of Minetta Tavern, Josh Capon of Lure and the only out-of-towner Spike Mendelsohn of Good Stuff Eatery. Granted Spike DID win last year's SOBE Burger Bash, New York is a completely different beast.

Now onto the burgers, ranked below from my favorite to least favorite:

Good Stuff Eatery - topped with a mix of horseradish, bacon and blue cheese, all on a soft potato roll. Every taste and texture was well balanced and it was all accompanied by a properly sweet, toasted marshmallow shake.
Lure - Josh Capon was serving a great burger here, brushed with mustard and topped with a bacon-onion jam, plus a nice slice of cheese all on a soft sesame seed bun.
Bobby's Burger Palace - I was shocked I liked this burger, but it really was quite good. A thin patty, cooked perfectly, topped with some Tabasco, I believe watercress, potato chips and a homemade sauce all on a potato bun. Great texture, but too salty with the very salty chips. Served with a delicious caramel-bourbon shake.
Spotted Pig - Appropriately a crowd favorite, the burger here was the same as at the restaurant. Topped with Roquefort and cooked perfectly, it was sandwiched between a grilled soft bun alongside HUGE, crispy, steak-cut fries. In my opinion, the cheese just overpowers the meat too much.
Minetta Tavern - While all competitors had the same meat, Minetta's seemed to taste the best. My only gripe, no texture, a thick soft burger, topped with soft onion compote on a soft bun. It was served with onion dip and duck fat chips as well.
Shake Shack - While a little overcooked, the standard burger of NYC was delicious as always.
Fatty Crab - Topped with a kimchi-slaw this burger was dominated, and overpowered, by strong peppery tastes. All served with a peppery shot.
Katie Lee Joel - Still not really a burger in my book, Katie Lee served up her 2008 winning dish, the Burger Patty Melt. Great grilled cheese, just not a burger.
Old Homestead - Way too much going on with this burger, including the very random addition of a tortilla chip. About as rare a burger as you can find without having uncooked meat.
Brooklyn Paper's Burger - Unfortunately this burger was dominated by iceberg lettuce; that's all I tasted (this was improperly labeled Gus & Gabriel's earlier, my apologies)
Rachael Ray - Too dense, too many toppings, all on a dense bun.
DuMont Burger - When I had it, the burger was cold, dense and overcooked. Too bad because the fried pickles that came with it were pretty good.

When the dust cleared, Spike won most likely due to a combination of a great burger and his marketing savvy, as he had hired a group of attractive women to dress as cheerleaders and mingle with the crowd. Josh Capon at Lure apparently served "the most burgers," but I'm not sure how anyone could have really tracked that. More importantly, he won People's Choice, a well deserved award. One thing to note, Crif Dogs was there serving a bacon wrapped, deep fried dog with avocado, perhaps a sign of a future hot dog event?? One of the many after parties was only a block or so away and sponsored by Patron. Here such food personalities as Guy Fierie, Rachael Ray, Giada, Robert Irvine, Tyler Florence, Anne Burrell, Leah Cohen, Lee Anne Wong, Chris Lilly and likely many more. Everyone sipped cocktails while watching a trapeze like show followed by Rachael's husband's band. Now for another packed day!

For a full visual recap of the evening see below (click the slideshow for descriptions):

NYCWFF: Chelsea Market After Dark Recap

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:10:00 +0000

Chelsea After Dark has become a favorite for many Food Network fans. This year the event was managed a bit more effectively than last year, with the crowd being funneled into newly opened spaces. With the excpetion of the line that wrapped from 9th Avenue to almost 10th Avenue, it seemed to go relatively smoothly.

The masses filled Chelsea Market to sample wines, food, liquor and beer from a wide variety of companies/brands. I was quite filled from all the bacon I had at the Bacon & Blues event earlier, but managed to have a few bites. A Tuna Burger from 202 was nicely seasoned, while a Beef Tartare Roll from Buddakan was light and refreshing. Chili from my friends at Dickson's Farmstand Meats was also quite tasty.

One of the more interesting, and comical, elements of the night was the massive Sandra Lee sign near the entrance. It reminded me of a mid-90's rap video (a la Puff Daddy and Mase) and provided some good laughs all around. A few notable appearances included the aforementioned Sandra Lee, Guy Fieri, Anne Burrell, Jacques Torres, Aaron McCargo Jr., Tyler Florence, Katie Lee Joel, Lee Schrager (guy is everywhere!), Seamus Mullen, Geoffrey Zakarian and I'm sure a few more I didn't see. Of course Guy and Sandra created the biggest buzz and were heavily guarded as they posed for photos left and right. For photos of the event, see below where Chelsea After Dark pictures begin with #15.

Burger Bash is tonight, with a full recap up tomorrow.

NYCWFF: Bacon Fest at Bacon & Blues

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 12:40:00 +0000

When an event has bacon in the title you know it is going to be good. Last night at the Thrillist Bacon & Blues event the room was filled with the aroma of bacon while chefs from restaurants around the city served up some of their most creative bacon creations. Drinks were flowing freely (although filled with Canadian Club) while the local bluegrass (though, it was advertised as blues) band rocked out and set the tone for the evening. Tyler Florence held court inside and outside on the patio, while The Standard Hotel provided stellar night views.

Best bite of the night, I'd have to say the Hazelnut Crusted Pork Belly from the Libertine. The crunch combined with the lush texture of the pork belly was a real winner. While it wasn't purely bacon, I also enjoyed the Potato Gratin with Truffles and Bacon from Aureole. This was a side dish I could get used to. Sweets included Chocolate Covered Bacon and Bacon Covered Donuts from 675 Bar, both of which were flying off the table all night. Take a look below for a full photo recap of the evening.

Dishes Served:

Hazelnut Crusted Pork Belly - Libertine
Potato Gratin with Truffles and Bacon - Aureole
Pork Belly with Fried Oysters - Mott
Bacon Wrapped Quail Sausage - Braeburn
Pulled Duroc Pork with Candied Bacon - Gansevort 69
Chocolate Covered Bacon & Bacon Covered Donuts - 675 Bar

A Cupcake to Feed the Masses at Crumbs

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 00:20:00 +0000

I've never been to any of the Crumbs locations in the city, but today after a disappointing lunch at the Amish Market in Hell's Kitchen, I decided it was time to treat myself. I made my way into the Crumbs location on Broadway, next to Shrek, and was immediately overwhelmed by the many offerings. Not only were there more than a dozen options, including a wide variety of cookies, but the cupcakes themselves are huge. Perhaps I'm a little late to realize this, but these were pretty impressive looking all around. My eyes quickly darted to a sign that said "Reese's" and I knew what I wanted.

I made my way up to my desk, Reese's cupcake in hand along with a glass of milk, salivating for this sweet, decadent treat. After struggling to decide the best way to dive in I just cut off a chunk. The frosting is light in texture, but mighty sweet. It's coated with some crushed peanuts and three (only three) chunks of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, all on top of a chocolate cupcake. What amazed me the most was how much frosting there really was, it actually made its way halfway down into the cupcake once I cut it open and looked at the cross section. While I'm no cupcake connoisseur, this was pretty good, but I was really disappointed with the lack of peanut butter flavor across the board. Oh well, next time I can try another one and maybe I'll share it with someone this time. www.crumbs.com for locations

My Winning Lamb Recipe - Barbacoa Style Lamb Tacos

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 01:35:00 +0000

So while I may be a bit "lambed" out at this point, I still wanted to share the winning recipe from this past Sunday's Lamb Takedown. Obviously my recipe is geared towards feeding an army, with miniature tortillas, but it is simple enough to cut in half or in thirds. My favorite part of the recipe, the "lamb butter" or rather the roasting liquids and fat blended together to then pour all over the shredded lamb. It adds a great kick of lamb flavor and really makes the dish, enjoy. For more reading on the Lamb Takedown click here.

Barbacoa Style Lamb Tacos with Three Chile Salsa
Time to prepare, approximately 10-12 hours

Lamb
2 Lamb Shoulders (15 lbs total, equals about 10lbs of meat)
3T Salt
1½ T Fresh Ground Pepper
2T Ancho chile powder
2T Chipotle chile powder
2 Onions, in chunks
6 Celery stalks, roughly chopped
10 Cloves garlic, smashed
1 Large can whole tomatoes
3-4 Carrots, rough chop
5 Sprigs fresh thyme
1½ T Mexican oregano, dried
1T Epazote, dried
2 bottles Negro Modelo beers (or 24oz similar dark beer)
½ Cup Water

Salsa (makes 4-5 cups)
8 Tomatillos, husked and grilled/roasted
8 Plum tomatoes, grilled/roasted
10 Cloves garlic, grilled/roasted
1 Onion, grilled/roasted
8oz Chipotle’s in adobo, with sauce
2 T Cilantro, roughly chopped
½ T Sugar
To taste Ancho chile, powder or dried and reconstituted in water
To taste Gualijo chile, powder or dried and reconstituted in water
To taste Salt
To taste Pepper

Tacos
Flour tortillas (cut to desired size) and steamed/griddled
Diced onion and cilantro mix
Radishes, thinly sliced on a mandolin
Queso Fresco, crumbled finely
Lime wedges

Lamb
Preheat oven to 225-250F. Remove lamb from fridge and let sit out for 15-20 minutes. Score the fat with a sharp knife, creating a criss-cross pattern. Rub thoroughly with S&P-chile rub, leaving ½ T of chile powder to season roasting liquid. Prepare two roasting pans with the same amount of vegetables and liquid in each. Put roasting rack on top of the vegetables and liquid and place each shoulder roast in the roasting pan. Place in the oven for approximately 4 hours or until starting to get a deep brown and then cover tightly with foil. Leave covered until the thermometer reads 180 F and remove from the oven (be sure thermometer is not touching bone). Let stand for 20-30 minutes to cool. Once cool enough to handle remove roasts from the roasting pans/racks and begin to shred all of the meat off with forks and your fingers.

After the meat has all been removed put aside in a bowl. Take cooled roasting liquid and remove any bones that may have fallen into it. Place the roasting liquid into a blender and blend thoroughly until smooth (this is what I call “lamb butter”.) Pour roasting liquid over lamb and mix together, add some water if it becomes too thick.

Salsa
Grill or roast the onions, tomatillos, tomatoes and garlic with no oil until charred. Let cool and drop into a blender. Blend until pureed, but a bit chunky. Add in chipotles and adobo, dried chiles, cilantro, sugar salt and pepper and puree again. Season to desired level of heat.

To Serve
Serve lamb in a taco shell with salsa and top with cilantro-onion mixture, queso fresco, radish and a squirt of lime juice. Enjoy.

Undersalted At Scalino in Park Slope

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 15:11:00 +0000

Over the years I have to come to realize that my proximity to Park Slope Italian mecca Al Di La has spoiled me and made it difficult to go anywhere else for Italian food in the neighborhood. Their menu from top to bottom has always left me pleased, but this past Friday night we opted to try something different. Wandering down towards South Park Slope we remembered Scalino, the tiny corner spot which friends of ours have raved about as an alternative to Al Di La.

We arrived around 8pm or so and waited only a few minutes to be seated. The restaurant is small, with very few decorations and was quite busy. It's a neighborhood joint, a spot where locals come week after week for the low priced fare (pastas start at $11). The menu only has a handful of options under appetizer, pasta and entree, while the specials (on a chalkboard that waiters move around the restaurant) has another dozen or so somewhat seasonal options. We opted to share the special Charred Squid as an appetizer, the Pappardelle with Pesto and Tagliarini Ragu all accompanied by a smooth bottle of Nero d'Avolo ($30).

The squid was nicely charred and was accompanied by caramelized onions, roasted red peppers and an overly generous pour of olive oil. The dish would have benefited from a bit more acid, but I found the sweet onions to be a nice pairing with the squid. The pappardelle was cooked appropriately al dente, but the pesto didn't do it for me. I expect to be wowed by a restaurant pesto since it is so simple and easy to make at home, but this was not the case here. Although my girlfriend enjoyed it she did agree it was under seasoned. My ragu on the other hand, fell flat in a number of ways. The sauce tasted too much of canned tomatoes for me and again it was under seasoned. On top of that, the pasta choice just didn't provide an enjoyable texture. The somewhat al dente, square shaped spaghetti combined with the heavy tomato-based sauce was a a bit mushy, a far cry from some of the pasta (insert varieties of pasta) with ragu I've had throughout the city. However, with just a bit of salt both pastas could have been much better, but upon asking for salt the server (perhaps owner) changed his mood drastically. Nearly throwing the salt down on the table, providing short, blunt responses and pouring our wine in such a rush it spilled on my hand and the table it was evident he did not like my request (the salt DID make both our pasta dishes better by the way.)

This brought up an interesting conversation as we finished our meal, is it offensive to ask for salt at a restaurant? The main answer, no it is not. While I can understand that some chefs are very particular about their food, every diner has a different taste and with that a varying appreciation for salt. In my case, I like salt, I think it brings out the best of other ingredients in a dish making it more enjoyable. Some restaurants leave salt out for diners, others you only see salt in the kitchen, but if a diner asks for salt so they can enjoy their dish even more, is that something to get worked up about? I think not.

In this case, our server seemed to be the one salting all the food as it came through the pass, maybe he took it personally? I don't really know, but with that said, the meal turned sour as soon as I asked for salt. Was the food good? It wasn't bad and with the addition of salt, it was much better. Will we be back? I highly doubt it when we can just go to Al Di La a few blocks away. They don't get mad when you ask for salt, but you rarely ever need to anyway.

347 7th Ave, Brooklyn, NY, (718) 840-5738, Reservations - Not Needed, Price - Moderate ($15-30/person)

(Funny side note, looks like Bloomberg has an affinity for salt just like I do: http://food.theatlantic.com/food-wire/does-bloombergs-salt-addiction-matter.php)

I took home the gold in the Lamb Takedown!

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 14:56:00 +0000

I'm very happy with the way the lamb takedown turned out yesterday. Beyond winning the Judges Award, the food was great, the crowd reception solid and overall just a fun time.

I'll be posting some photos and the winning recipe in the next day or two.

In the meantime here is some coverage:

Grub Street

Metromix
Village Voice

Josh Ozersky's video of the event (on YouTube)

(photo above courtesy of Metromix)

Baa-ring It On! I'm Competing in the Lamb Takedown...

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 16:24:00 +0000

Come support me tomorrow as I compete in my first cooking competition. Matt Timms, the guy behind the infamous Chili Takedown and Bacon Takedown is partnering with the American Lamb Board to host 20 talented home cooks as they prepare their best lamb dish for over 200 guests. Tickets are $15 and that gets you into the venue, Highline Ballroom, and a chance to taste every dish. The event starts at 2pm, so don't be late!

I've got just over 15lbs of bone-in lamb shoulder I'm working with. It's currently in the oven roasting and won't be emerging until later tonight. I can't tell you exactly what I'm preparing, so come by tomorrow and check it out. Win or lose I'll post some photos and the recipe after the dust has cleared.

Wish me luck!

For more info and tickets visit: http://chili-takedown.com/?p=655

My New Favorite Midtown Sandwich Spot, Xie Xie

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 15:20:00 +0000

When I got word that Angelo Sosa would be opening a sandwich spot in Hell's Kitchen focused on Asian flavors I was pretty excited. Midtown has an abundance of sandwich spots, but not much variety in that area, specifically when it comes to Asian flavors. Enter Xie Xie, my new favorite sandwich spot.

The sleek, modern decor is inviting and for now opens out into the sidewalk with some tables and chairs. It's not a huge restaurant by any means, but it works. The assembly line style preparation of the handful of dishes is prompt and delivers some pretty tasty sandwiches. Fortunately during my visit I was able to try almost every dish on the menu, beginning with the Sweet Glazed Pork Buns ($8.50 for 3). The buns, a dish becoming more and more common around the city, were filled with what seemed like pork shoulder and a sweet and sour condiment. I would have preferred more spice, but this can be easily corrected with a squirt of siracha. Next up, Asian Lobster Roll, and interesting menu item that is priced fairly high at $14. Not being a huge fan of lobster I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this roll. The sweet chunks of lobster were mixed with just the right amount of mayo and seasoned with tarragon and crispy shallots (these are everywhere now). To top it all off, the custom made, split-top bun (baked off-site) was perfect in my opinion.

My last savory item was the Vietnamese BBQ Beef ($9), a monster of a sandwich when compared to the other offerings, it is stuffed with tender braised beef, basil mayo and carrot kimchi. I expected a slightly tough slice of steak upon looking at the sandwich, but upon the first bite it all melted in my mouth. The carrot kimchi brought a welcome crunch to compliment the tender beef and soft sesame seed studded roll, while the mayo helped bind the ingredients all together. It may look like a steak sandwich in the (poor) photo above, or even a burger, but it is certainly not.

Satisfying our sweet tooth a "1,000 Year Old" Ice Cream Sandwich was cut into 4 bites. The paper thin cookie surrounds a creamy vanilla ice cream filled with black salted caramel. Modeled after the Chinese delicacy, Thousand Year Old Egg, there is actually no fermentation going on with this dessert, just pure indulgence. The balance of sweet and salty really works here and the surprisingly thin cookie holds up to the inch plus ice cream filling quite well. Other offerings include Boylan sodas, salads, chips and even delivery. Not to be forgotten, the new happy hour where you can get a Vietnamese beer and a bun with your choice of fillings (except lobster) all for $5. I can't wait to get back here to finish up the rest of the menu.
645A 9th Avenue, NY, NY 10036, 212-265-2975, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($9-20/person)

More photos courtesy of Midtown Lunch here: http://midtownlunch.com/2009/07/29/xie-xie-would-be-amazing-with-a-little-less-mayo/

The Hidden Tacos of 10th Avenue

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:50:00 +0000

No longer a hidden gem thanks to the press this year, Tehuitzingo Deli & Grocery on 10th Avenue is a must visit for those living and working in the area. With solid depth in Hell's Kitchen when looking for a good meal, something that seems to be lacking a bit is quality Mexican. Walking up to Tehuitzingo you may not be inclined to walk in and eat here, but try to get past that. At first glance you may only see stocked shelves full of chipotles in adobo, pork rinds and tortillas, but keep walking back and you will be met with a tiny take out counter and some old pleather covered stools.

Next to the tiny take out window the menu lists a variety of tacos from chorizo and potato to pig's ears, tortas, quesadillas and more. Prices are relatively cheap, though a few cents more than you may find in Sunset Park, but still a great midtown lunch deal (I guess it's technically not in midtown being on 10th Avenue). Of the tacos I am a big fan of the chorizo and potato with it's bold flavors, tender potatoes and proper use of heat. The barbacoa (goat) is tender, but lacks a primary flavor and is taken over more by the chopped onions and cilantro condiment. I recommend putting a little of the red chile sauce on all of the tacos, that is if you like a little heat. Other condiments are available, including tomatillo salsa and pickled peppers.

Having a poor torta experience in Williamsburg not too long ago I was excited to get a proper torta here at Tehuitzingo. $6 buys a huge torta stuffed with a variety of fillings. I opted for the somewhat unexciting chicken with the works. The bread was pretty spot on, with a nice bit of bite and doughy enough to absorb all the juices of the sandwich. The lettuce, tomato, cheese and shredded chicken thigh all worked well together and for the most part remained within the confines of the bread (a difficult feat). Overall, I'm impressed by the food here, but wouldn't crown it the best in the NY area at all. For the neighborhood and even Manhattan though, it is close to the top.
695 10th Avenue, between 47th and 48th, 212-397-5956, Price - Inexpensive ($6-10/person)

Quick Bite: Ssam Bar Scrapple

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 00:39:00 +0000

On a recent stop into Ssam Bar for a weekday lunch I was looking to try something different and quickly found something to fit the bill, scrapple! Yes that's right, the traditional Pennsylvania dish of pork scraps and trimmings, often found in dives and diners (and sometimes frightening those with a weak stomach), but this is the David Chang version. As you can see in the photo, this certainly doesn't look like the typical scrapple either. For one, they try to dress it with a few rogue leaves of mustard greens, really just for color. What's more this scrapple is topped with a perfectly runny fried egg and paired with a thick, chewy slice of Benton's bacon glazed with a fig mustardo. The scrapple itself is delicious, slightly crispy on the outside, and packed with plenty of pork shoulder (no random filler here) and cornmeal. The egg binds it all together while the bacon adds a smokey, sweetness. A delicious lunch, albeit a bit expensive ($14 w/o tax and tip) and another creative dish from the folks at Ssam.

Re-Evaluating Franny's

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 19:35:00 +0000

On my last visit to Franny's I was a little disappointed. Yes, the pizza was good, but I didn't see the draw or understand the non-stop praise the restaurant was receiving. After a chef friend recently made his way there and came away thrilled with the pizza, I figured I would give Franny's another shot. It doesn't hurt that I live around the corner and frequently pass the spot either.

Walking into Franny's a few weeks ago I was pleasantly surprised when we were immediately seated at a quaint table for two near the open kitchen. Somewhat awkward, but comfortable enough we ordered a simple array of food, salumi platter, heirloom tomato salad, braised long beans and a tomato, basil buffalo mozzarella pizza to share. The house-cured meats were delicious, I particularly liked the pancetta and coppa, and for two, the perfect amount. The salad was quite tasty, although covered in way too much olive oil, while the beans were tender, but slightly over salted.

Back on track though, we were here for the pizza. The fresh, bubbling pie was placed in front of us whole (never pre-sliced here) and the crust seemed to hang freely over the edge of the plate. A waft of fresh basil and charred crust filled the air near our table and we quickly dove in, slicing the pizza carefully into four large slices. The first bite was heavenly, the crust properly crispy while the tomato sauce, cheese and basil mingled together. There was a certain creaminess that I experienced when the toppings all became one, something I've only experience with a few pizzas in my life. It was a joyous moment, one that changed my opinion instantly of Franny's. Of course, the problem with the thin, wood-fired pizza is that the whole pie does not sit well, so my ethereal experience with the first slice was not replicated with my second. Regardless, it was a delicious pizza, one that if it was a few dollars cheaper I would gravitate towards frequently.

However, the pizza did not clear Franny's of all problems. Too much oil on the food, sky high prices for small portions and a sometime pretentious server here are there leaves a few things to be desired, but will I be back? I certainly will, most likely only for the pizza's while drinking tap water to save a few bucks (half kidding).

Seattle Food Fest 2009, Part 2

ginsbera@gmail.com (Always Eating) — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 22:07:00 +0000

Fresh off a first day of eating and wandering through Seattle, I was a little less nimble on day 2, but still eager to get out and eat. After a late start to the day I found myself wandering over Route 5 towards the University District, with my stomach set on eating at Thai Tom. Commonly named one of the best Thai restaurants in Seattle and on many cheap eats lists, I figured this was a can't miss. Wanting to avoid the lines I arrived shortly before noon and easily grabbed a seat at the counter, with a superb view of all the cooking action. The restaurant is tiny, with no more than 20 seats and an open kitchen with high-powered woks raging. A wooden slab of a menu is placed before you with most dishes in the $7-10 range. I opted for the Swimming Rama, over the more common, simple, Pad Thai. The dish is basically a rich, spicy peanut sauce, chicken, spinach and rice. The server asked me what level of spice I wanted and I exclaimed "medium," this was an amateur move on my part. Apparently, Thai Tom rates spice on a 1-5 level, I recommend keeping it in the 1-2 range because my dish, as good as it was, was fiery hot. Best Thai ever? Not at all, good with an entertaining show at a low cost? Absolutely.

Of course most folks would be done eating for at least a few hours after a heaping bowl of peanut sauce, chicken, spinach and rice, but I pushed on, determining my next selection after a short walk on University Way. Next on the list, the famous Dick's Drive-In, a Seattle institution. This 5 location drive in has been offering up burgers, shakes and fries since 1954 and is a favorite of locals and destination for out of towners like me. With the retro decor, super low prices and late night hours (open till 2am) it's hard not to like this place. I ordered up the Deluxe Burger, at the pleasing price of $2.40, and a Vanilla Shake. The burger, is composed of 2 thin patties equaling about 1/4 lb and comes with shredded lettuce, cheese, mayo and a chopped pickle relish. For the price it's a really enjoyable burger, albeit fast food, but it was the chopped pickle relish that really sold me. Sweet and tangy, I am inspired to create my own version at home next time I make burgers (word has it they mix in some mustard). The shake is a great pairing with the burger, and at only $1.90, it's hard to pass up. It's no In-N-Out burger, but I put Dick's toward the top of my all-time fast food experiences.

Stuffed beyond belief I took plenty of time between my next meal, sampling some local brews on the porch while watching the sunset over the city. Next food stop, Rancho Bravo Taco truck a mere few steps away from Dick Drive-In. Setup in a donut shop parking lot (by the way Seattle LOVES their donuts), Rancho Bravo offers the staples and provides a tented table with giant jugs of salsa. A trio plate of tongue, carnitas and carne asada ran me less than $10, and I should have probably held off on the third taco after a day of eating. The carnitas was hands down the best, tender, juicy and seasoned extremely well. The other two tacos were a bit disappointing unfortunately, but perhaps we are actually spoiled when it comes to tacos in NYC (wow, I never thought I would write that!). Final note, the woman taking orders was definitely the nicest taco server I've encountered.

More to come, including delicious vegan donuts and a grand finale at How to Cook a Wolf.