Yet another long night bus brought me to Mandalay, 3rd stop on my 14 day backpacking trip around Myanmar (Burma). P, a Thai traveler I met in Bagan was also headed the same way, perfect! because that meant we wouldn’t have to travel alone again for, at least, a few more days.

Mandalay: last royal capital of Burma

Me and P rented bicycles and explored a few sights within Mandalay city center, including the former Royal Palace, Mandalay Hill, and the Central Railway Station, where I bought my train ticket to Hsipaw. The weather was perfect especially the beautiful sunset looking over the whole city from Mandalay Hill.

Hsipaw: Train Ride through Rural Burma

I traveled solo during my overnight trip to Hsipaw, while P decided to explore sights nearer to Mandalay and wait for me to come back.

Experiencing the train ride from Mandalay to Hsipaw was actually the main reason why I ventured north of Bagan. There were a lot of interesting places to visit in and around Mandalay but after reading about the Mandalay-Hsipaw train ride as one of the best railway journeys in the world and seeing jaw dropping photos of it online, I got obsessively excited.

I loved that the places and people seemed to be stuck in a bygone era.  The whole experience was like being in a movie. The locals were very friendly, especially the group of old monks that never failed to smile whenever I walked past or chatty conductor that broke the lull moments of the 11-hour train ride.

The best part was definitely when we reached the long-span bridge over the massively beautiful gorge in Gok Teik.

Ancient cities of Upper Myanmar

P and I met again in Mandalay on the last day of his trip. He shared a lot of useful tips about going about the rest of my trip in Mandalay.

I only had two days left to visit as much as I can of Greater Mandalay also called the ancient cities of Upper Myanmar. The ancient cities include Mandalay and surrounding settlements of Mingun, Amarapura, Innwa (Ava), and Sagaing.

I started with a half-day trip to Mingun, which involved a scenic wooden boat ride along the mighty Ayeryarwady River. Then, rented a bicycle again to explore more sights within Mandalay City Center.

Touring around major sites of Amarapura, Innwa (Ava), and Sagaing was doable in just one day. Instead of hiring a motorcycle from Mandalay, I decided to break away from the usual routine by taking local pick-up commute.

The post Mandalay Gallery: ancient cities of Upper Myanmar and rural Hsipaw appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

I was totally looking forward to wander around remote villages, hiking past blooming rice paddies bordered by towering limestone cliffs.

I ended up traveling from the northeastern Thai-Laos border to its southernmost Laos-Cambodia land crossing . The trip took around 18 days taking 3 to 4-day stops at popular tourist spots like Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Vientiane, and Pakse.

I was also able to visit off-beat destinations, which made my trip especially memorable.

Day 1: Huay Xai

Thailand-Laos Border Crossing

After using up my entire 30-day free visa on arrival in Thailand, I crossed the Chiang Khong-Huay Xai border crossing  located at the far northwest corner of Laos.

Laos also offered free 30-day visa on arrival for Philippine passport holders.

I spent one night in Huay Xai before moving on to Luang Prabang, my first major destination. I definitely needed a little rest in preparation for the butt numbing and nauseating 12-hour bus ride to Luang Prabang.

View of Huay Xai, a border town beside the Mekong River, from the rooftop terrace of Friendship Guest House

Laos money and expenses

I used my (Bank of the Philippine Islands) ATM card to carry and withdraw money to “Lao Kip” (LAK) currency. One US dollar converted to around 7,800+ kip.

I only needed US$128 (or PHP5,200) to be a millionaire in Laos :) Of course, that amount was only enough to spend on backpacking around Laos for nearly one week.

I was surprised that backpacking around Laos turned out more expensive than Thailand. Particularly with food and accommodations and in Luang Prabang, especially. I was expecting the opposite since Laos seemed less developed/wealthier than Thailand.

Hostel dormitories were not common in all places I visited save for Vientiane, which added to my expenses as I was traveling solo. I was definitely missing Chiang Mai’s famous 100 baht dorms :(

Day 2 to 4: Luang Prabang

I got on the 12-hour bus trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang instead of the hyped up two-day slow boat down the Mekong River.

Luang Prabang is a tourist town known for being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This ancient city served as the capital of early kingdoms that ruled Laos, center of Buddhism, French-colonial stronghold, and briefly as the seat of power during the communist “Kingdom of Laos” government.

Luang Prabang had a rather subdued charm to it rather than a place filled with sights built in grand fashion.

French-colonial shop houses and Buddhist temples were exquisite, especially the buildings with luxurious views of the Mekong River. It was the kind of place I’d go to if I was looking forward to spend lazy days sipping down a cup of coffee or a bottle of beer while enjoying beautiful scenery in a very laid-back town.

There were also lots of  monks in saffron-colored robes roaming quiet streets and a variety of local food to indulge in.

Peaceful riverside promanade at Luang Prabang bordered by exquisite French-colonial buildings and the mighty Mekong River

Tasty and extremely cheap vegatarian buffet at the night market in Luang Prabang (10,000 kip per plate).

I rented an automatic scooter (150,000 kip per day) with another solo backpacker that I met on the bus to Luang Prabang. We visited two sites outside the city center: Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls located south of the main city, then Pak Ou caves in the north.

Taking an automatic bike out for a spin beyond Luang Prabang city center

Lower cascades of Tat Kuang Si waterfall, located 29 kilometers south of Luang Prabang city center.

Tallest cascade of Tat Kuang Si Waterfall with all its fury during Laos’ rainy season

Wooden boats used to ferry us to the Pak Ou Caves, located 25km north of Luang Prabang.

Hundreds of miniature Buddha sculptures hidden inside one of the caves at Pak Ou.

Overlooking the Mekong River from the trails at Pak Ou Caves

Day 5 to 8: Muang Ngoi Neua and Nong Khiaw

I continued my journey, backtracking northwards to Nong Khiaw, a sleepy town 4-hours away from Luang Prabang. Nong Khiaw was situated beside the Nam Ou River and surrounded by breathtaking views of monolithic limestone formations.

Since I wasn’t on any rush, I decided to go, further, on the hour-long local boat to Muang Ngoi Neua, which was even more remote and exceptionally beautiful.

Ferry ride along the Nam Ou River from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoi Neua

Scenic vew at the ferry landing in Muang Ngoi Neua

Beautiful view of the Nam Ou River from my bungalow at Muang Ngoi Neua.

Closer view of the lush highland scenery from the balcony.

Overlooking view of Muang Ngoi Neua village on my late afternoon trek to Phanoi cave

I wandered, on my own,  around and random trails meandering through blossoming rice paddies at Muang Ngoi Neua. The experience turned out to be the best part of my 18-day journey in Laos.

I spent an extra night when I got back to Nong Khiaw, so I can checkout the views around that area.

Gorgeous countryside views on my hike around Ban Na Village

Staking a herd of water buffalos. An an albino at the back :)

View from the highway bridge at Nong Khiaw village center

Thick clouds approaching

Caught up in the rain and muddy trail

Although the views were breathtaking, the skies were too grey during my trek at Muang Ngoi Neua and Nong Khiaw. I wasn’t able to capture the perfect souvenir photo of the scenic Laos countryside fixated on my mind. I was left wanting for more but I needed to move on to my next destination, hoping the weather would turn up.

Day 9 to 10: Vang Vieng

I thought Vang Vieng was all about parties and river tubing. I was almost sold on skipping this infamous backpacker destination until a backpacker I met in Thailand convinced me otherwise. She told me the scenery in Vang Vieng was worth checking out, even for just a quick stopover.

I was so glad I did! There wasn’t much of a party scene in Vang Vieng anymore anyways. The local authorities closed down most (or all) of the “tubing bars.”

I stayed at Jamee Guest House located at the edge of town. The owner offered a spacious room with a beautiful view of the countryside for only 50,000 kip. It was totally one of the best back-for-your-buck hostels I’ve stayed at so far!

My room at Jamee Guest House in Vang Vieng, Laos

Main tourist strip in Vang Vieng

I rented a bicycle and pedaled my way to the farming village across the Nam Song River. Most of the limestone formation clusters were around that area.

The sunny weather came at the right time, complementing perfectly with the vibrantly green rice paddies and low clouds surrounding picturesque limestone formations.

I finally got to indulge in the iconic Laos countryside scenery I fantasized. The views were amazing!

Wooden bridge over the Nam Song River

Basking under the iconic view of the Laos countryside in Vang Vieng

Day 11 to 14: Vientiane

Vientiane definitely fit the bill of a “low-key” capital city. The major tourist spots in the city should only take a day to visit, possibly even half a day.

Since I was planning on applying for my Myanmar Tourist Visa at the Myanmar embassy in Vientiane, I spent four days there while waiting for the embassy to release my tourist visa.

The travelers I met in Vientiane made my trip very memorable. The hostel dorm I stayed at was filled mostly by Japanese backpackers, who were very friendly and fun to hang with.

Patuxai (Victory Gate), a local rendition of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe. Great views on top!

Pha That Luang, Vientiane – the national symbol of Laos

Beautiful sunset at the river promenade of Ventiane. The landmass across was already Thailand.

Day 15 to 16: Bolaven Plateau

After my visit to Ventiane, I boarded a night bus to Pakse located in the southern part of Laos. Then got on a local bus to Paksong, a small village at the Bolaven Plateau.

While figuring out how to go about exploring the highland areas of the  Bolaven Plateau, I joined a coffee tour led by Mr. Koffie. Yes, that was his real name.

I learned a lot about growing coffee, different varieties, and preparing the perfect roast. The coffee was also really good!

Coffee Tour at Paksong, the coffee capital of Laos

After the coffee tour, I was hoping to see huge waterfalls the Bolaven Plateau was famous for. A couple of them were located just along the way back to Pakse.

A backpacker I met at Mt. Koffie’s shop graciously offered to give me a ride on his rented motorbike all the way to Pakse. Great timing since he was also planning to see the waterfalls.

Tad Yuang Waterfall, first waterfalls we visited at the Bolaven Plateau

Tat Fane “twin” Waterfall, one of the tallest in Laos.

Day 17 to 18: Pakse, Champasak

After my new travel buddy checked out and continued his journey northwards, I stayed in Pakse a little longer so I could visit the Vat Phu Temple complex located around 40 kilometers south of Pakse.

Vat Phu was an ancient Khmer temple similar to the ones I had already seen at Angkor Wat, Cambodia. This particular temple was distinct, however, because it was built on the side of a forested hill. In contrast, most of the temples in Angkor Wat were surrounded by wide plains.

Foot path leading to Vat Phu “hill” temple

Overlooking view of Vat Phu, twin barays (lakes), and surrounding areas

Inside the Buddhist shrine at Vat Phu

The sunset was stunning on my way back to the city. I even found a dirt road that offered picturesque views of rice fields glowing under the golden light.

Picturesque dirt road branching off from the highway in Champasak, Laos

Seemingly deserted highway in Champasak, Laos

I spent my last day on the shuttle van ride to the Cambodian border and spent the night at Kratie. I did not visit Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), even though it was just along the way. I set it aside so I’d have more reasons to come back to Laos :)

I’ve totally associated Laos with “adventure.” I loved that I didn’t overly plan my trip. I experienced a lot of  surprises, which made the trip extremely memorable.

Backpacking Summary

• Length of trip: 18 days

• Total expenses: around US$400
• Daily budget: US$20 to 25

• Places explored:
  • Luang Prabang (Northern Laos)
  • Nong Khiaw (Northern Laos)
  • Muang Ngoi Neua (Northern Laos)
  • Vang Vieng (Central Laos)
  • Vientiane (Central Laos)
  • Champasak (Southern Laos)
    • Bolaven Plateau
      • Paksong
    • Pakse
    • Vat Phu

• Visas required: Free Visa on Arrival for Philippine Passport Holders

• Border crossings:
  • Chiang Khong (Thailand) to Huay Xai (Laos) land crossing
  • Veun Kham (Laos) to Dom Kralor (Cambodia)  land crossing

The post Laos Itinerary: From North to South, Backpacking around Laos for 18 days appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

Arrival in Bagan, Myanmar

The sky was shrouded by pitch black darkness when our night bus arrived in Bagan (from Yangon) around 3am. I didn’t bother book a hostel room beforehand. After arrival, my “game plan” was basically to get on a pick-up truck to New Bagan, supposedly the go-to place for cheap hostels, and wanderaimlessly around town to check for cheap rooms.

There were no pick-up trucks in sight, only two or three horse carts parked near the bus. Walking around in the dark might not be a good idea, I thought. It seemed unlikely that I would easily find anything open in that dead sleepy little town anyways.

Hostel Search in Bagan

Fortunately, another solo traveler approached me and asked if I would like to join him on renting one of the horse carts and look for a hostel together. His name was Mr. P, from Thailand. We were also joined by a Ms. C, a British girl traveling with her cute baby.

Our horse cart driver said all the guest houses within Nyaung-U were already fully booked, so he took us around a few hostels on the road to Old Bagan.

All the cheap hostels we checked were already fully booked. The only accommodations vacant were budget hotels offering rooms for US$30 per night, not the best option since we were all planning to stay somewhere cheaper. We went back to Winner Guest House, one hostels we checked earlier, to reserve the cheap room they offered. We had to wait until their guests checked out (7 hours later) at 10am.

Finding cheap accommodations in most tourist areas I visited in Myanmar was always difficult. The cheaper hostels filled up pretty quickly because of the increasing popularity of this country among backpackers.  Myanmar is perhaps the only country I would advise booking accommodations in advance.

First Bagan Sunrise at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda

While waiting, we made use of our otherwise idle time by seeing Bagan’s famous the sunrise view from one of the temple tops. The same horse cart driver gladly agreed to take us to the Shwe Sandaw Pagoda for 5,000 kyats (whole cart; round trip).

A lot of tourists, mostly large Chinese groups, were already at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda when we arrived at around  5:30am. Fifteen minutes later, the sky started to light up with soft twilight colors, revealing silhouettes of countless temples. Some of them were evidently massive, while most were small but still visually stunning because there were a myriad of them spread across the wide  flat plains.

Golden sunrise at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda

Bagan served as the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Pagan, the first kingdom to unify the regions that would later constitute modern Myanmar. Over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were constructed in the Bagan plains alone during the kingdom’s heyday.

“Only” 3,000 temples and pagodas remain in Bagan, still impressive! Its architectural grandeur and historical significance is comparable to the major temples complexes in South East Asia such as in Angkor, Borobodur, or Prambanan. Bagan is truly a must-visit for temple lovers.

Sunrise and sunsets atop temples and pagodas were definitely the highlight of my trip in Bagan. We spent the next three days trying to see overlooking views of Bagan from as many temple tops / vantage points. Every angle was always different. Some more beautiful than others, of course.

Overlooking countless temples spread arcoss the riverside Bagan plains

The room at Winner Guest House was still occupied when we got back. We decided to continue our tour of Bagan since we could just leave our bags there and have the hostel staff secure them in our reserved rooms when they are available.

Winner Guest House, located along the main road between Nyaung-U and Old Bagan, was an excellent base for our temple run since it was relatively near the major temples of Old Bagan and the bus station/restaurants in Nyaung-U.

Some temples, including a few that had offered beautiful sunrise/sunset views, were even a short walk away. A downside, though, was the extremely limited choices for places to eat around this area. We ate most of our meals at the restaurant next door, which served decent local Burmese food.

Bagan Temples Tour

Me and Mr. P hired a horse cart to take us around the temples in Bagan for whole the day (K15,000 whole day rental including the Burmese driver, who also served as our local guide).

We toured Bagan by horse cart on our first two days since we weren’t up for going by bicycle just yet, not with the intense tropical heat and having gone through the tiring 9-hour bus ride.

We decided to visit the far-off temples at Myinkaba Village and New Bagan first and work our way to the more bicycle-accessible temples around Old Bagan and Nyaung-U.

Myinkaba and New Bagan

P bought a picture book of Bagan Temple, which became our main temple guide.

I was lucky I traveled with P, who was fascinated with Buddhist paintings and other architectural details of the temples. Growing up in a Buddhist society, P also eventually became my guide, of sorts, because he fed my curiosity about Buddhism and was attentive about interesting details that I would have otherwise overlooked if I were exploring the temples on my own … especially with how the Burmese interpreted Buddhism differently compared to “Thai” Buddhism and other Buddhist societies P had already visited.

The intricate sculptural reliefs and wall paintings were most remarkable at the set of temples we visited on our first day. I didn’t get to take pictures of the best ones because photography was not allowed inside the temples, which had the best preserved frescoes.

Flock of birds hovering above Mya Zedi Pagoda

Intricate sculptural carvings of Hindu god Brahma inside Nanpaya Temple

Washed-out murals adorning the inner walls of Nagayon Temple 

Dhammayan Gyi, the largest temple in Bagan

Strange big headed image of buddha along the hallway of Dhammayan Gyi Temple

Walking past the twin Buddhas in Dhammayan Gyi Temple

Golden statue of Buddha sitting in front of a large reclining buddha mural in Htilo Minlo Temple

Mural inside Htilo Minlo Temple. Reminded me of Yzma, the evil villain in Nickelodeon show: The Emperor’s New School.

Odd big nosed horse-like creature. Looked like a pink unicorn :)

Day 2

Exploring Old Bagan’s Major Temples

C and her baby joined us the next day on our horse cart tour of the majors temples in Old Bagan. The temples we visited that day were among the biggest, most popular, and revered in all of Bagan.

Being on the horse cart reminded me of my temples run marathons at Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia. In terms of sheer WOW-moment-ability of the physical structures, Angkor Wat edged out Bagan in my opinion.

Taking a broader perspective, however, I am left undecided about picking one over the other. Both destinations offered very different experiences.

Temples of Angkor Wat were simply more grandiose and complex yet flocked with hundreds of tourists, which oftentimes ruined the “Indiana Jones” factor of wandering around the temples.

What the temples of Bagan lacked in physical size, they made up for in sheer number. The overlooking views during sunrise and sunsets were clear winners! I also loved wandering inside the temples as if discovering them myself especially when exploring the smaller temple groups, where there were absolutely no one else around. Even the major temples weren’t pestered with too many tourists.

Horse carts in front of Ananda Temple, one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Bagan

Giant standing Buddha statue, Gotama, facing west at Ananda Temple

Buffet lunch in Burmese flair

Temple vendors sitting under a big tree

There were a lot of vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs at popular temples. It could get a bit annoying when you’ve been sightseeing around temples all day and have to constantly to tell them that you’re either not interested with what they are selling or you’ve already bought something similar. I understand they were just trying to make a living.

Most of the locals, however, were very pleasant unlike their counterparts I encountered in other touristy spots around Asia, trying every possible scam to get me to spend money on something. Most Burmese people were charming and seemed genuinely interested about actually having a conversation. Talking with foreign tourists, was a way for them to practice their English and learn about different cultures of the “outside world.”

One vendor at the Maha Bodhi temple offered to apply Thanaka on our faces. Thanaka is a sort of light colored sun protection cream made from tree bark and roots, which went well with the longyi, a traditions Burmese men’s bottoms I bought earlier, for a fun photo shoot at the western wall of the Maha Bodhi.

Burma-fied at Mahabodhi Temple

Basking under the perfect sunset light at Shwegugyi Temple

Intricate old door of Shwegugyi Temple

Tourist scaling random temple tops to get the perfect sunset shot

Overlooking view of temple tops from Shwegugyi Temple

Day 3

Side trip to Mount Popa Temple

We started our third day in Bagan by watching the sunrise from the top of Shwe Leik Too temple, which was only a 20-minute walk away from our hotel. It was really awesome be able to wander into ancient temples, search for hidden passageways that led to the upper terraces, and stay there chatting with fellow travelers while waiting for the sun to rise.

Misty sunrise view from Thagya Pone Temple

Bagan temples illuminated by the dawn light

Afterwards, we met a couple who wanted to go to Mount Popa Temple, located 50km from Bagan. I was pleasantly surprised when the half-Filipina girl told me she had family roots in Leon, Iloilo (my hometown). Anyways, we’ve been thinking about going to Mount Popa also, so we offered to team up and split the van rental.

Built on top of an imposingly tall and steep rock outcrop, Mount Popa Temple was impressive seen from afar and the overlooking views at the summit were awesome. We did not find the temple itself worth the costly van rental though.

The only remarkable thing that caught our attention was the unpleasant sight of monkey droppings littered all over the stairs on our way up. We jokingly renamed the place as Mount “Poopa”. In fairness to the locals, they did sweep all the monkey poop as we made on our way back down.

Steep imposing slopes of Mount Popa Temple

Green view from Mount Popa Temple

I rented a bike for the rest of the afternoon, after returning to Bagan, and cycled around the back roads of Nyaung-U on my own.

Taking a break from cycling around Bagan

Day 4

Bagan Bicycle Tour: around Nyaung-oo and Old Bagan temples

Me and P went around nearby temples by bicycle on our last day. Exploring Bagan by bicycle was definitely my favorite! I loved the freedom of going wherever we pleased, following unfamiliar roads, and conveniently stopping for a photo when we wanted.

We cycled along the road from Nyaung-U to Old Bagan to visit minor temples we missed. P also accompanied me back to Dhammayangyi Temple, since it was my favorite and I wanted to back, spend more time there, and explore every inch of it.

Rampaged by a herd of goats and cattle

Burmese local driving an ox cart through the rural roads of Bagan

Self-portrait on the wooden balcony of a newly restored monk monastery.

Elephant and monkey-like statues at one of the small roadside temples

Strange Burmese folklore depicted at the intricate wooden sculptural details of Shwezigon Pagoda complex

Shwezigon Pagoda in New Bagan

Flying pigeons at Shwezigon Pagoda

Around 4pm, we went back to Winner Guest House because we planned to take the 5pm bus to Mandalay. This time, we requested the staff to phone a hostel in Mandalay and make room reservations for us.

Bagan Backpacking Summary

• Expenses: US$120 approx for 4 days or US$30 per day
• Date of Travel: October 2012

Getting in and out of Bagan

• Yangon to Bagan aircon night bus (8-9 hours) – K15,000
• Bagan to Mandalay aircon night bus (7 hours) – K15,000

Where I stayed in Bagan

• Winner Guest House (Nyaung-U Rd, Wet Kyi-in village; midway between Nyaung-U and Old Bagan; +956 160 128)
  • Double aircon room with twin beds (private TB) – US$16 per night
    • US$8 per person since I shared the room

Getting around Bagan

• Horse cart rental
  • Transfer from Nyaung-U Bus station to nearby hostels – K2,000 per person
  • Transfer from Winner Guest House to Shwe Sandaw Pagoda – K5,000 (whole cart; round trip)
  • Whole day tour around Bagan – K15,000 (whole cart)
• Van transfers to Mount Popa – K30,000 (whole van; round trip)
• Bike rental – K1,000 to K1,500 per day

Itinerary, Journals, and Guides

• Myanmar Itinerary (2 weeks)
  • Bagan Itinerary (4 days)
    • Bagan Hostel Search and First Sunrise at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda
    • Bagan Horse Cart Tour: around Myinkaba Village and Old Bagan Temples
    • Exploring Old Bagan’s Major Temples by Horse Cart
    • Side trip to Mount Popa Temple in Bagan, Myanmar
    • Bagan Bicycle Tour: around Nyaung-oo and Old Bagan temples
• Bagan Temples and Tourist Spots Guide

The post Bagan Itinerary from dusk till dawn: My 4 day temple run in Myanmar appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

My reasons for traveling was a bit different this time. My trip wasn’t only about visiting different places but also the experience of taking my “work” with me and being away from home for longer periods. I wanted to fully experience living a location independent lifestyle and was determined to know if a nomadic life was really something I would find fulfilling.

I didn’t plan an itinerary. All I started with were my flights to Chiang Mai and enough money to last me a couple weeks of backpacking.

Northern Thailand Itinerary

I spent the first three weeks of my trip in the Northern Thai city of Chiang Mai then, with a little more than a week before my tourist visa expired, I did a loop around few more tourist spots in Northern Thailand before crossing the border to Laos.

The main areas I visited included Umphang Rainforest in Tak province, Kamphaeng Phet, Sukhothai, Phrae, and Chiang Rai.

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, known as the cultural and tourism capital of Northern Thailand, had roughly 300 Buddhist temples scattered around the city and its outskirts. Wandering around these historic attractions was the main tourist activity in Chiang Mai. Additionally, the city was also a popular base for trekking and elephant park tours.

I started most of my mornings in Chiang Mai with cheap breakfast and coffee at the local market. Then, I’d take the bicycle out or walk to nearby temples and discover the gastronomic goodness that is Thai street food.

At night, I’d be at the rooftop terrace of my hostel or in my room, working on my blogs. Some days, I spent wholly for temple runs and food trips, while others were reserved as “work days.”

I loved my short stint at “living” in Chiang Mai. Now I understand who so many bloggers raved about this city being one of the best places for location independent lifestyles. The city was peaceful and urbanized, modern conveniences within an easy walking distance, and most of all, cheap. A thrifty backpacker can budget around US$6-10 per day in Chiang Mai.

I suffered from “temple fatigue” a few times after going overboard with my temple visits. Fortunately, I wasn’t in any rush and could spend the next day doing less intensive activities… like going to the mall :) So Filipino.

Pad Thai, my ceremonial first meal in Thailand :)

Cycling along the moat and brick fortress walls that completely surrounded the historic core of Chiang Mai

Green views on one of the corner walls of Chiang Mai fort

Birds, locals, and tourists spending leisurely days at the lovely park outside Tha Pae gate

My “work space” at the rooftop terrace of Malak Guest House.

Wat Chiang Man, the first temple in Chiang Mai, located a block away from my hostel.

Visiting the Silver Temple with another Filipino travel blogger, who was also traveling in Chiang Mai at the time.

Wat Lok Molee, one of the lesser known yet exceptional temples in Chiang Mai

Monk ceremony at the main hall of Wat Chedi Luang

Hiding behind the rain while visiting the huge stupa of Wat Chedi Luang

Beautiful cloudy sunset after the rain at Wat Chedi Luang

Night market stall in front of Wat Phant-ao, one of the few wooden temples in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Outskirts

I also got to wander around a few interesting spots outside Chiang Mai City Center. The first ones I visited were Wat Chedi Liam and Wat Jed Yod, which were accessible by bicycle.

Wat Chedi Liam

Wat Jed Yod

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, was a bit far and needed a ride aboard the local pick-up truck. Not only was it the most famous Buddhist temple in Chiang Mai, its hilltop location offered great overlooking views of the whole city and outlying towns.

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

Doi Inthanon, the tallest mountain in Thailand, could be easily conquered by joining one of the tours offered in Chiang Mai. Since my visit coincided with the rainy season, I wasn’t too interested about visiting the summit. I didn’t want to get disappointed by heavy clouds blocking the view.

I was, however, really excited to go to Doi Inthanon to visit its waterfalls, which should be at the peak of its beauty around that time.

Mae Ya waterfall particularly stood out. Its impressive size and fan-like cascades were unbelievably stunning.  Best of all, I had the waterfall all to myself! No other tourists around because the waterfall wasn’t included in most of the “tour group” itineraries. I had to go there DIY style.

Mae Ya Waterfall at Doi Inthanon National Park

Umphang, Tak Province

Now it was time for the main course: trekking to Thee Lor Su, the highest and largest waterfall in Thailand.

To get there, I got on the bus to the Thailand-Myanmar border town of Mae Sot, then rode aboard the long pick-up truck ride to Umphang, situated deep in the rainforests of Tak province.

Fortunately, there was a group of Spanish backpackers who also wanted to see the waterfalls when I arrived in Umphang. We booked an overnight trekking tour to Thee Lor Su, which involved a scenic 4-hour river cruise on a slow raft and another 4-hour light trek to the campsite near the waterfall.

Top loading a songthaew (local pick-up truck) on my way to Umphang town.

Beautiful countryside views on the ride from Mae Sot to Umpahng.

Our awesome guide masterfully navigated our slow raft through the scenic Klong River, which was bordered by thick forest and tall limestone formation. Some even had waterfalls flowing down its rugged walls.

Our trekking guide goofing around during our the trek to the camp site.

Finally, the view of Thee Lor Su Waterfall. The rainy season wasn’t actually the best time to visit the falls. The strong water flow filled the whole area with a thick haze of cold mist.

Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phaet

The remnants of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom was a popular backpacking destination in Thailand. UNESCO included Sukhothai ruins in its list of world heritage sites under the category  Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns.

Kamphaeng Phet was one of these “Associated Historic Towns” that tourists often overlooked.  I enjoyed cycling around two of the bigger temple complexes at Kamphaeng Phet without sharing the space with bus loads of tourists. Most people I met were Thai tourists and locals doing their afternoon jog around the historical park.

Wat Chang Rop within Khet Aranyik temple group in Kamphaeng Phet

Tall stupa ruins at the main temple complex in Kamphaeng Phet

Me under a big tree 

Sukhothai Historical Park was also beautiful and worth a visit. The temple ruins were larger and more impressive. There were also more tourists around, though.

Late afternoon at the Wat Mahathat, the main temple ruins in Sukhothai

Sunset view beside one of the larger ponds beside Wat Mahathat

Phrae

On my way to Chiang Rai, I broke the long land journey by spending one night in Phrae, a peaceful town 120 kilometers north of Sukhothai. Phrae was a charming little town with a couple of interesting sights like old teak wood houses and temples. The main draw there, however, was the experience of being in the non-touristy side of Thailand.

Welcome to Phrae ^_^

Detailed wood carvings on the facade of one of the temples in Phrae

Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai, the northernmost major urban center in Thailand, was an excellent place to visit for a few days before crossing the border to Laos.

The city seemed like the awesome “wicked” little sister of Chiang Mai. I had been waiting all month to see the insanely interesting conceptual architectures of the White Temple and the Black Houses.

Twilight at the Chiang Rai Clocktower 

Countless sculpted hands depicting purgatory on the path to Wat Rong Khun a.k.a “The White Temple” in Chiang Rai

The biggest out of nearly 40 mysterious black houses, built at the outskirts of Chiang Rai. These structures exhibited the work of Thai National Arist, Thawan Duchanee.

One of the devilish black houses that caught my attention. Almost all of the structures had bizarre and innovative designs that played with the mix of traditional Thai elements and modern contemporary concepts.

Looking out from inside the main hall, which was filled high teak wood beams and long tables laid out with beastly remains like with animal skulls, deer horns, leopard and snake skin.

Nothern Thailand Backpacking Summary

• Total duration of the trip: 30 days
• Total budget: US$500 (approximately) or $15 to $20 per day

The post Backpacking Thailand: One month itinerary around Northern Thailand appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

Myanmar, also known as “Burma,” had only recently become a popular destination in the South East Asian backpacking trail. Blame it on decades of military government control for isolating the country from the rest of the world. Since 2008, however, the Myanmar government initiated a series of reforms geared toward a transition to democracy. Tourists are among the first take notice of Myanmar starting to “open” itself more.

Myanmar seemed very different from the rest of South East Asia. During my two week visit, the influence of local culture was still strong even in big cities and the main tourist areas. I agree with other travelers who are saying that the best time to visit Myanmar is sooner rather than later, before the country succumbs to the ills of mass tourism and globalization.

Traveling to Myanmar needed a bit more preparation than neighboring countries. For one, they required all tourists to apply for a visa, even passport holders of South East Asian countries. Also, there were no ATMs that accepted foreign cards anywhere, a result of international banking sanctions. I had to bring all the money I needed and they (banks and legitimate money changers) only accepted immaculately pristine, new US$ dollar (or Euro) bills.

Don’t that discourage you though, getting around within Myanmar was easy. Locals were always helpful and there were many people who spoke good English.

Myanmar was beautiful and I highly advise it to travelers who prefer to stay away from the “tourist crowd” and appreciate interactions with local cultures.

Myanmar Route Map

I traveled around three main areas: Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay.

Two weeks would’ve been enough to do “the big four” Myanmar backpacking trail but I decided to deviate from this popular route by skipping Inle Lake. Squeezing in a quick visit to Kyaiktiyo and riding aboard the train ride to Hsipaw seemed more worthwhile at the time.

On this trip, I was able to visit three of the holiest buddhist sites in Myanmar namely, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in Yangon, Mahamuni Buddha in Mandalay, and the Kyaiktiyo Golden Rock Pagoda… the “Holy Three of Myanmar”

Arrival and first impressions of Myanmar

Sunrise before boarding my Bangkok to Myanmar flight at Don Meuang International Airport, Thailand

Arriving at Yangon International Airport, I already felt how different Myanmar was with all the places I’ve previously visited. Most Burmese men and women wore longyi, traditional skirt bottoms similar to a sarong. Almost all men had red stains on their teeth from regularly chewing betel nut, which was surprising because chewing betel nut is only popularly done in remote mountainous regions anywhere else in South East Asia. Whereas most women (including a few of the men), wore a light-colored facial mask called Thanaka, a practice I’ve only noticed in Burma. There were also a considerable number of  locals with Indian descent, aside from more Malay and Chinese features.

Three days in Yangon

Formerly known as Rangoon, Yangon is the largest city and capital of Myanmar during its British-colonial days.

After stepping foot at Yangon City Center and getting first glance of all the grand old buildings, I was totally sold on hanging around longer. I was surprised to discover that Yangon had so many well-preserved colonial-era buildings, probably the most impressive in all of South East Asia.

I ended up spending three days wandering around Yangon.

At the heart of Central Yangon was the golden spire of the Sule Pagoda, a fitting landmark to start my walking tour. Yangon did not feel pre-dominantly Buddhist. I passed by more mosques and grander Christian churches than Buddhist structures within the city center. The abundance of western-style buildings also contributed to the multi-cultural feel.

Surrounding the grand colonial period edifices were dense rows and blocks of old apartment buildings, which gave the city a gritty urban feel. Probably, the most characteristic quirk of Yangon’s streets were the generous red splattering of betel nut spit.

Yangon’s colonial era buildings had very eclectic architectures.  Beside the Sule Pagoda was the City Hall building, infused with strong Burmese architectural influences. Many buildings had domed towers that reminded me of Soviet Russia for some reason. My favorites were the former High Court Building for its imposing clock tower and the Minister’s Office for its sheer size, occupying one whole city block.

Burmese locals playing ball infront of the Sule Pagoda and City Hall before the morning rush hour

Sule Pagoda Road

Minister’s Office Building

Old High Court building

I was very fortunate to have witnessed a golden sunset over the surreal beauty of the Shwe Dagon Paya, Yangon’s most famous tourist attraction and the holiest Buddhist site in all of Myanmar.

Sunset twilight at Shwe Dagon Pagoda in Yangon

Four days in Bagan

I took advantage of traveling on night buses (like the long 8-9 hour land trip from Yangon to Bagan), to fully utilize daylight hours on my trip and save a few bucks on hostel costs.

I stayed four days in Bagan, the longest part of my trip in a single destination. Bagan is Myanmar’s prime tourist attraction, which should not be missed. Its architectural grandeur and historical significance is comparable to the major temples complexes in South East Asia such as in Angkor, Borobodur, or Prambanan.

Bagan served as the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Pagan, the first kingdom to unify the regions that would later constitute modern Myanmar. Over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were constructed in the Bagan plains alone during the kingdom’s heyday.

The highlight of my trip was climbing temple tops and seeing spectacular sunrise and sunsets over more than 3,000 temples and pagodas in Bagan that still survived to the present day.

Golden sunrise at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda

Misty sunrise view from Thagya Pone Temple

Sunset view of Bagan temple tops from Shwegugyi Temple

Me and two newly met travel buddies traveled around Bagan by horse cart on our first and second day. We visited far off temples first and worked our way towards the major temples in the Old Bagan area.

There were a lot of vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs at popular temples. It could get a bit annoying when you’ve been sightseeing around temples all day and have to constantly to tell them that you’re either not interested with what they are selling or you’ve already bought something similar. I understand they were just trying to make a living.

Most of the locals, however, were very pleasant unlike their counterparts I encountered in other touristy spots around Asia, trying every possible scam to get me to spend money on something. Most Burmese people were charming and seemed genuinely interested about actually having a conversation. Talking with foreign tourists, was a way for them to practice their English and learn about different cultures of the “outside world.”

When we were at the Htilo Minlo Temple, one of the vendors told me she had just met a group of Filipinos. I got excited since I rarely met Filipino travelers for weeks that I was backpacking around South East Asia. She held out a piece of paper with a list of common Filipino phrases (Hello, Thank You, How are you?, etc…) that the group of Filipinos wrote down for her. I thought it was sweet.

I coincidentally met the group of Filipino tourists later that evening. Bagan was such a small town with limited dining options that you’re bound to bump into other tourists you encounter while temple hopping.

Standing statue of Gotama at Ananda Temple, one of the holiest temples in Bagan

Intricate sculptural carvings of Brahma and other Hindu dieties inside Nanpaya Temple

Dhammayan Gyi, the largest temple in Bagan

Walking past the twin Buddhas in Dhammayan Gyi Temple

On our third day, we hired a van transport to Mount Popa Temple, which was located a bit far off.

My favorite means of touring around Bagan was definitely by bicycle because it felt like discovering the ancient monuments ourselves especially at the small temples where there were no other tourists around.

Steep imposing slopes of Mount Popa Temple

Cycling around Bagan

Self-portait at the wooden balcony and stone staircase of a newly restored monk monastery

Five days in Mandalay and Beyond

Mandalay is the second largest city and last royal capital of Burma. The city actually seemed to me, more urban and commercially developed than Yangon.

I spent five days exploring Mandalay and beyond despite other backpackers saying attractions in Manadalay does not warrant, even, a full day’s visit. I can sort of understand why. If you’re a “you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all” kind of traveler then you’re probably better off spending less time in Mandalay.

I, however, general enjoyed Mandalay. Some sights, like Innwa (Ava), I would’ve rather skipped but I found most places I visited worthwhile.

Around Mandalay city center, I pedaled to the Royal Fort and a couple of interesting buddhist sites nearby like Mahamuni (Golden) Buddha Temple and Sutaungpyei Pagoda atop Mandalay Hill.

I got lost while searching for the Shwe In Bin wooden teak monastery. I passed by a school filled with hundreds of monks and went inside out of curiosity. A friendly monk started talking to me, which was so cool because it was my first time and I got to learn interesting tidbits about their life.

Mandalay Hill and the fort walls of the Royal Palace

Dusk twilight at Mandalay Hill

Mahamuni (Golden) Buddha Temple

Shwe In Bin (wooden teak) monastery in Mandalay

I also went to Upper Myanmar’s four ancient cities: Mingun, Amarapura, Innwa, Sagain, which were easily accessible as day trips from Mandalay. I rode a ferry to get to Mingun, while the other three I reached by local pick-up commute and motorcycle.

Burmese fisherman on a wooden boat at the Ayeyarwady River. Taken on the ferry ride from Mandalay to Mingun.

White-washed Hsinbyume Pagoda in Mingun

View of Sagaing Hills from U Min Thonze Pagoda

Breast-shaped golden mound of Kaung Mu Taw Pagoda

Amarapura’s Ubein Bridge, the longest wooden teak bridge in the world

Since I’ve been traveling mostly around popular tourist areas, I was also craving to visit one of Myanmar’s “off the beaten track” destination. I decided go with the scenic train ride to Hsipaw, a small rural town located further north from Mandalay.

My two days spent in Hsipaw was one of the most memorable and photographically rewarding parts of my whole trip.

Beautiful deep gorge on the train ride to Hsipaw, regarded as one of the ‘must do’ railway journeys of the world

Burmese smiles aboard the happy train to Hsipaw

Young monk apprentices at the morning market

Apprentice walking along the dirt roads in Hsipaw

Kyaiktiyo

The last segment of my trip was a two-day visit to Kyaiktiyo, located a few hours south of Yangon. This pilgrimage site is most known for the seemingly gravity-defying Golden Rock that sits on the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo.

Seeing the perfect golden sunset at the Kyaiktiyo Golden Rock Pagoda was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen. It came at such great timing at the end of my backpacking trip around Myanmar and the rest of mainland South East Asia.

Sunset at Mount Kyaiktiyo

Budget Summary

Backpacking around Myanmar was slightly more expensive than traveling around nearby South East Asian countries like Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

• Total Expenses: US$350 (estimate)
• Daily backpacking budget: US$25 to US$30

Travel dated October 2012

DIY Guides and Itineraries

• Myanmar Itinerary(2 weeks): Central and Northern Burma
  • Yangon Itinerary (3 days): Arrival in Myanmar, around Central Yangon, and Shwedagon Pagoda
  • Bagan Itinerary (4 days): Temple Run from Sunrise to Sunset
    • Bagan Tempe Tour
  • Mandalay Itinerary (5 days): Around Mandalay, Mingun, Amarapura, Sagaing, Innwa, Hsipaw
    • Hsipaw itinerary (2 days): Burma Railway Experience
  • Kyaiktiyo Itinerary (2 days): Golden Rock Pagoda

The post Backpacking Burma: My two week adventure in Myanmar appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

I found out about the “jungle trail” to Sohoton Caves and Lagoons on my fourth day in Bucas Grande Island. I’ve always wondered if it was possible and wanted to try it since it was the cheapest way to the lagoons. I was traveling solo and did not want to spend a lot on renting a whole boat for myself, again. Plus, going on a different route seemed more interesting than taking the direct boat from Socorro town proper.

The trail was used everyday by local guides and boatmen stationed at the reception area of Sohoton. One of the locals accompanied me on the 45-minute trek, which coursed over multiple limestone karst hills. We started at Brgy. Sudlon proper, 15-minute motorcycle ride away from Socorro town proper, and ended in Dagatan, a short boat ride away from the entrance “guard house” of Sohoton Cave and Lagoons.

This featured photo was taken on the highest point of the trail during my trek back to Brgy. Sudlon. This time, I trekked alone  after I told my new friends that I was confident I could find my own way back. Fortunately, I did not get lost, though I highly advice getting a guide since the trail forked a number of times.

The post High Point of my Jungle trek to Sohoton Lagoons of Bucas Grande Island appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

For years since my first visit to Surigao provinces, I craved intensely to go back and swim in the crystal-clear emerald waters of Sohoton lagoons with hundreds of non-sting jellyfish and finally ride the famous surf in Cloud9.

I stayed six days each in Siargao and Bucas Grande wanting to see as much of these islands as possible. Even then it was not enough. I spent most of my time wandering around random beach and inland trails, which got me lost pretty often but also rewarded memorable experiences.

I spent another week chasing waterfalls and enchanted rivers in the eastern corner of Mindanao. My feet were set to visit Aliwagwag Falls, the highest waterfalls in the country. Along the way, I also stumbled upon interesting and beautiful places in Agusan del Sur, Compostela Valley, Davao Oriental, and Surigao del Sur.

Journey to Surigao del Norte

Aerial view of green islands of Surigao on my “Cebu to Siargao” flight

Siargao’s surf waves beckon

Bucas Grande Island, Surigao del Norte

Exploring quiet beaches of Socorro, Bucas Grande Island

Beautiful hidden spot that took more than an hour hike along the coast from Socorro town proper

Rough waters at desolate white sand beaches on the other side of Bucas Grand Island

Blooming rice paddies surrounded my emerald-covered hills

One of the easily overlooked spots I passed by on my walk-athons around Bucas Grande. I loved the color contrast on this red earth trail, the bright green leafy shrubs and chaos of its net-like thin roots

Lonely walk on the hills overlooking the whole island

Sohoton Cave and Lagoons

An overlooking view along the 30-minute karst forest trail from Brgy. Sudlon to Dagatan, near Sohoton Lagoons. Trekking my way to the lagoons still required another paddle boat ride to the entrance of the Sohoton Cave and then a chartered boat around the main lagoons.

Passing through Sohoton Caves, the entry-point to the beautiful salt-water lagoons of Bucas Grande Island

Sohoton Salt Water Lagoon

Hornbill (Kalaw) sighting!

Snorkeling at the coral gardens outside the lagoons

Sohoton’s famous non-sting jellyfish. Hundreds of these can be found swimming in one of the lakes.

Surfing in Siargao

Siargao’s Cloud9 surf spot during low-tide

Surf waves at Cloud9 were not too active during my visit. As a beginner, I actually liked it better since I could avoid monstrous wipe outs.

The long arduous walk from Pesangan surf spot to the mainland

Planned to spend at least one week in Siargao to learn how to surf better. My body was aching real bad after only two days of surfing. I realized it would take me at least a few more weeks to have a good “surf training” taking rest days into account.

Around General Luna

Beach view outside my cottage in General Luna town proper

Bird hunting for fish at Pesangan, General Luna.

Ate a few sea urchins that children were collecting at Pesangan. These orange non-sting sea urchins are my favorite kind. Best eaten raw!

Beaches along the coastal foot trail from General Luna to Cloud9. I survived the whole day without slippers :D

One of the interesting tidal pools, natural aquariums, offering a close-up glimpse of marine plants and critters.

Biking through random trails around Siargao

Peaceful, low-key dirt roads of General Luna town proper.

Working lunch at one of the restaurants in General Luna that offers free WIFI.

Magpupungko Tidal Flats and Rock Formations

“Top load” jeepney ride from Dapa to Pilar, Siargao Island

Captivating landscape of Magpupungku Rock Formations

Colorful seemingly extraterrestrial vegetation at the expansive rock shelf

Bunawan Giant Crocodile

Bunawan, Agusan del Sur’s most beloved creature is a crocodile

At 20 feet and 3 inches in length, Lolong is the world’s largest crocodile ever caught and placed in captivity.

Awao Falls, Compostela Valley

Fan-like cascade of Awao falls in Monkayo, Compostela Valley

Serenity at Awao Falls

more: Awao Falls, curtain-like cascade in Monkayo, Compostela Valley

Aliwagwag Falls, Davao Oriental

Front view of Aliwagwag Falls, a series of 84 cascades that make up the tallest waterfalls in the Philippines

Virgin forest surrounds the entire length of Aliwagwag Falls in Cateel, Davao Oriental

My favorite cascade of Aliwagwag Falls

Enchanted River, Surigao del Sur

The abyssal depths of the Enchanted River in Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur. One of the most visually bizzare places I visited in the entire Philippines

The post Eastern Mindanao: Siargao and Bucas Grande, Sohoton Lagoons, Awao and Aliwagwag Falls appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

For two months that I was traveling around South East Asia (Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam), I hardly witnessed awesome sunsets because of my ill-timed visit during the rainy season. When I arrived in Myanmar (Burma), however, most late afternoons were blessed with perfect sunsets.

After a long drought of grey skies, the golden sunsets were like much needed rain of enlightenment for my inner photographer.

Shwedagon Pagoda is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar (Burma) and, arguably, the oldest historical pagoda in the world. At 99 meters, it dominates the skyline of Yangon.

Like in other holy temples and pagodas in Myanmar, I had to take my shoes off and walk barefoot at the temple grounds. The whole temple complex was HUGE. I arrived at the actual structure of the Shwedagon Pagoda around 6:20pm, a time when the soft colors of twilight was at its most mesmerizing intensity.

View more photos taken during my 3-day trip to Yangon.

The post Enlightenment at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.

In case you didn’t know, Myanmar is not the easiest country to travel in South East Asia.

Nevertheless, I was still more excited than anxious. I read a lot of blogs and met travelers, who have already visited  Myanmar, beaming with positive things to say about their experience. They raved about the beautiful temples, kind humble people, and loved that this country was not yet infiltrated by suckitude of  mainstream tourism.

Myanmar was also the last stop on my backpacking trip around Indochina. I was determined to make the most of my remaining two weeks before coming back home.

Thailand to Yangon Flight

I flew to Yangon, the capital of Myanmar, from Bangkok via AirAsia. My flight departed from Don Meuang International Airport 4:30am in the morning. Early enough to watch a beautiful sunrise behind the glass windows of the airport terminal. Was it a sign of good things to come?

Sunrise before boarding my flight at Don Meuang International Airport in Bangkok, Thailand 

Myanmar required all visitors to apply for a tourist visa, even passport holders from ASEAN (Association of South East Asian Nations) member countries. I applied for my tourist visa at the Myanmar embassy in Ventiane, Laos. Application process was very easy since they didn’t require a lot of documents. The 28-day tourist visa costs US$20 and was issued after 3 working days.

Day 1

Arrival at Yangon International Airport

My anxieties quickly died away after breezing through immigration. It was time to start my potentially epic two week adventure in Myanmar soil.

Arrival hall of Yangon International Airport, Myanmar

First impressions of Myanmar

Taxi touts greeted us after we exit the arrival gate. First thing I noticed was how most of the local men dressed differently. They were wearing sarong-like skirt bottoms called “Lungi” and had teeth heavily stained with betel nut.

Traveling around Myanmar was a constant surprise, especially because I did not do too much research before my trip. This country seemed very different from the rest of South East Asia.

Burmese people appeared mostly of Indian descent, many with Malay facial features and a hint of chinky eyes. As usual, I could still pass off as a local and I was seriously planning to do so by learning to speak a little Burmese. It wasn’t actually necessary, traveling around Myanmar was easy since most people engaged in the tourism industry spoke very good English.

Airport to Yangon City Center

Taxi drivers were not pushy at all. In fact, I did not encounter overly persistent touts the whole time I was in Myanmar. Burmese people did not seem to be overly concerned about capitalizing tourists like most touristy places I’ve recently visited.

After popping by the tourism information desk to ask for directions and get free maps, I walked to the highway and boarded a bus to Sule Pagoda, located at the heart of Yangon City Center, or simply, Central Yangon. Bus commute only costs 150 kyats (US$0.18 ), which was much cheaper than the US$10 taxi fare.

Along the way, I got excited when I saw a massive fortress-like structure peering out of the horizon. It had high walls laden with myriads of needle like spires pointing to the heavens. In the center was the largest spire built to a height fit for a skyscraper.

I was already amazed and excitedly exclaimed to myself, “Myanmar is definitely something else.”

The massive structure could have been the Shwedagon Pagoda. This particular photo was taken days later.

Finding a hostel in Yangon City Center

Yangon was the biggest surprise during my whole Indochina trip. I did not expect this city to have some of the grandest colonial-era buildings in all of South East Asia.

Sule Pagoda Road coarsing through the heart of Yangon. A contrast between the old, new, and eternal.

First, I had to find a hostel and get a good long sleep before seeing as much of Yangon my feet could handle.

I easily got lost in Central Yangon’s extensive grid-patterned roads. I passed by a few hostels, which were either over my budget or fully booked, before reaching Zar Chi Win Guest House (37th Street). Single room costs US$8 per night (with free breakfast; centralized aircon; shared TB).

Zar Chi Win Guest House housed inside a colonial-era building located at cor 37th – Merchant Streets

Day 2

Walking tour of Yangon

I started walking around the empty streets of Yangon before daybreak. The haunting aura was very alluring. The city center seemed like an Asian equivalent of Gotham City with all the ”end of the century” western-style buildings sparingly interspaced by Burmese-influenced architecture and ancient temples.

Wandering around Central Yangon was incomparable to other major urban centers in South East Asia. As cliche as it is, the city was chock-full of strong contrasts and oddities.

Buddhist monk feeds pigeons in front of the Yangon City Hall

Ancient Sule Pagoda sandwhiched between the Yangon City Hall and modern glass high-rise buildings

Burmese locals playing ball at the street before the morning rush hour

Myanmar Independence monument at Maha Bandoola Garden

Self-portait with the Burma high court building

Customs House Building

Accountant-General Office (left) and Myanmar Port Authority (right) Buildings

Myanmar Economic Bank (left) and Yangon Division Court (right) Buildings

Strand Hotel

Changing Money in Myanmar

Currency of  Myanmar was “kyat,” pronounced as “chat.” It can be abbreviated as “Ks” or simply “K,” placed before or after the numerical value.

There were no ATMs in Myanmar that accepted withdrawal using foreign cards. Additionally, only a few establishments accepted credit card payment. The most practical option for tourists was to bring all the money needed for the entire duration of their trip.

Most banks and money changers only accepted US$. Not just any US$ bill. It had to be:

• Absolutely “crispy” new with no bends, creases, marks, tears.
• Printed after year 2000, preferabbly after 2003
• must not contain CB, BC or AB serial numbers

I should have exchanged all the money I needed at the airport because they offered the best rate at US$1 = K860.

Wasted a few hours at the money changer center along Thain Phyu road waiting for the currency exchange counters to go online. Exchange rate was US$1 = K853. You could imagine my dread reaction when they refused to accept two of my US$100 bills because of a miniscle center fold.

Fortunately, I only needed to change half of my money to kyats since most hotels charge in US$. They were not so particular about negligible folds. Train and some boat tickets are also paid in US$.

If you can avoid it, do not exchange US$ at the dodgy roadside “black market” peddlers. In case you’re curious, they usually hung around near Sule Pagoda.

People waiting for the money changer to open. The chaotic crowd was 10x as big when the counters went online.  Locals were considerate to let foreigners transact first.

US$200 worth of K1000 bills. Theft is not a common problem in Myanmar for tourists carrying wads of money. Of course, it is necessary to be discrete.

Yangon walking tour continued

Lunch at a local Burmese eatery. The curries are delicious! Meals usually come with complimentary side dish and hot tea

Love samosa!

Saint Mary’s Cathedral Yangon

Apartment block in Central Yangon

Grand towers of the Prime Minister’s building all fenced up :(

Bengali Sunni Jameh Mosque

Yangon City Hall (left) and Sule Pagoda (right)

Burma High Court, my absolute favorite building in Yangon

Facade of the Burma High Court and closer view of its clock tower

Shwe Dagon Pagoda and Kandawgyi Lake

Later in the afternoon, I planned on visiting the Shwe Dagon Pahoda, the most famous landmark of Yangon and holiest Buddhist site in all of Myanmar. I took a local bus (I think it was bus#43) to Kandawgi Lake and walked my way from there.

I was caught breathless by the surreal beauty of the Shwe Dagon Paya under the golden sunset.

Beautiful sunsets in Myanmar seem to be in glowing abundance. The sunsets were perfect in most days.

Wooden bridge at Kandawgyi Lake

Karaweik Royal Barge

Followed a wrong turn and stumbled upon the Maha Wizaya Pagoda

Beautiful ceiling paintings depicting the life of Buddha at Maha Wizaya Pagoda

Golden spires of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda  reaching out into the heavenly twilight

One small corner of the massive temple complex. My short visit was not enough to fully explore the Shwe Dagon Pagoda.

Huge bell inside ornately decorate halls

Souvenir photo at Shwe Dagon Pagoda

Day 3

My itinerary wasn’t as busy on my last day in Yangon. I started with brunch and WIFI at Tokyo Bakery Cafe, the only affordable restaurant I found offering free WIFI internet. Speeds were very slow in all places that had online access in Myanmar. My hostel did not have WIFI internet. If you’re looking for a cheap hostel with free WIFI, I recommend Tokyo Guest House (200 Bo Aung Kyaw Street).

After brunch, I walked to the bus agency shops outside the Aung San Stadium to buy tickets to Bagan, my next destination. Passed by the Yangon Central Railway Station and abandoned Old Burma Railway Headquarters on the way back to my hostel (for check out).

Brunch and WIFI at Tokyo Bakery Cafe along Maha Bandula Road (near Sule Paya). 

Bogyoke Market

Old Burma Railway Headquarters

Yangon Central Railway Station (left) and bus company shops at Aung San Stadium (right)

Inside Yangon Central Railway Station

Aboard the local bus#43 to Au Ming Lar bus station

Read my full Yangon 3 day itinerary.

Next destination: Bagan, Myanmar for four days

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The first time I visited Bohol’s chocolate hills, I was happy even just for the experience of finally feasting my eyes on this famous geologic wonder. I was, however, underwhelmed with the actual view. I felt it didn’t compare to my expectations, greatly influenced by postcard-perfect shots I’ve seen growing up.

I traveled back to Bohol in June (end of summer/dry season) to give it another chance. I spent the night in Carmen town, near the government-managed viewdeck, so I can visit the chocolate hills before sunrise.

To take this shot, I zoomed in at the cluster of hills seen on the backside of the viewdeck (or the northern parts of Bohol Island). I used an F/16 aperture and mounted my camera on a tripod to get a crisp shot. My lens took “soft” images at the telephoto end, so I had to sharpen the image a bit and increase the image contrast.

The post Misty morning at the Chocolate Hills of Bohol appeared first on Ambot ah! Travel Blog.