American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog

Adventures in Cowboy Country - Part 1, The Tetons

2009-11-09T06:00:00.000-08:00

The Teton Range. The Grand Teton is the prominant peak in the center of the picture. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

These long days always seem to begin the same way. I am lying on the ground, tucked in my warm sleeping bag trying desperately to ignore my beeping alarm. My eyes are heavy as I try to open them under the clear, cold night sky, squinting at my watch for a look at the time…4:ooam. The thought crosses my mind, as it always does, ‘Do I leave my small down-filled world of warmth and comfort for the bitter, biting cold or tuck my head back inside and continue my pleasant dream?’ As I hear my partner rustle out of his bag I know that the decision is now out of my hands so I shed my sleeping arrangement and quickly dress before my body losses too much heat.

We don’t have much time to waste so we quietly load our climbing gear into the car and head down the road to the trailhead. As we drive with the heat cranked as high as it can go we munch on bars and snacks, trying to wash the dry food down with as much water as we can handle. We are packing light so the more we can eat and drink now, the better. Within minutes we arrive at the trailhead and after a quick trip to the bathroom we are on our way. I check my watch, 4:30am, right on schedule. Our objective is the summit of the Grand Teton via the Direct Exum Ridge, a true American classic, or at least that’s what everyone keeps telling me. Our goal is to do it in a day and after a summer of being cooped up in an office I am anxious to see how we do.

As we hike along I think about where I was this same time yesterday. I was just waking up next to my fiancé in my Bellingham Washington home. My things were already packed and ready to go when I met my good friend and fellow adventurer Andy at my back door. We threw my things into his trunk and were on our way in no time. Andy has an infectious energy and we are soon reminiscing of past climbs and dreaming of adventures to come. We watch the sun rise above the horizon and stretch it’s warm, glowing arms across the landscape. This is one of those simple things I enjoy so much in life, witnessing the earth wake up from it’s nightly slumber. I’m not a regular early riser so when I get the opportunity to watch this brilliant event I try to savor every moment.

“White Lightning”, Andy’s affectionate name for his hardy Toyota Camry, eats up the miles and the hours pass quickly. We take shifts driving towards our destination, Andy’s home state of Wyoming and that most famous of skylines, the Tetons. After 18 hours of driving we finally arrive at the national park and pull off the road to try and catch a glimpse at these beautiful peaks. We can barely make-out the numerous peaks against the black night sky but our excitement builds none-the-less. Even if we can’t see it clearly we know the Grand Teton is sitting proudly amongst its fellow mountains, beckoning to be climbed, and we hope to answer that call. We sleep in the driveway of one of Andy’s old acquaintances George, who happens to be one of the senior climbing guides for the park and lives inside the park among the rows of cabins inhabited by his fellow rangers.

The rocky trail brings my attention back to the present. We have headlamps on but keep them turned off. The bright moon provides enough light to avoid the majority of the rocks and roots but the trail still demands my attention. Our keep a good pace and are soon watching the sun rise (two days in a row, boy am I lucky!) across the Jackson Hole. This is my first time in the area and this new light soon reveals the incredibly beauty of this place.

Morning light shines on the southern Teton range; (from left) Cloudveil Dome, Spalding Peak, and Gilkey Tower. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

The trail winds through forest, talus, and mountain streams, the whole time bringing us higher and higher. We pass climbers tents and soon reach the notch that divides the Grand and the Middle Teton. We have a great view of our route from here and stop for a moment to eat and drink while scouting the beginning of our climb. Our excitement pushes on onward and soon we are traversing the horizontal black dike that leads us to the base of the Exum Ridge.

The Exum Ridge follows (roughly) the right skyline. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Around 9am, after about 5,000 ft of elevation gain we finally arrive at the base of the Exum. Now the real fun begins. As this is a blog and I am running out of time until my deadline, I will let my photos tell the remainder of the story.

Leading the famous Black Face pitch. The angle steepens but the holds are all there and the climbing is incredible. Easily my favorite pitch of the ridge. Photo by Andy Farley

Andy enjoying all the Black Face has to offer. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Andy leading up the following pitch which we dubbed the crystal crack. The rock was unlike anything I had ever climbed on, with large quartz crystals peppering the rock. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Ahhh, what a view from the top. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom

Summit success! Now all we have to do is find the way down and get back to the car before our energy wears out. Photo courtesy of The Grand Teton

We made it to the summit of the Grand at about 2pm. After some celebratory photos and much needed nourishment we began our hurried descent. We teamed up with some other parties and combined ropes to make some longer rappels, putting us back at the notch within a couple hours. We've still got a long way to go back to the car so we don't linger too long. We watch the long shadows of the Tetons stretch across the valley as the sun sets and soon we find ourselves hiking in the dark once again. Exhaustion has set in and my legs are now on autopilot. Andy and I dream of the delicious dinner we will make once we return to the car. My headlamp is playing tricks with my surroundings and soon pine cones become giant beetles and roots are enormous snakes hiding in the brush. We are constantly convince ourselves that around every turn our car will be waiting, a dangerous and demoralizing game when all you want to do is sit in a nice comfy seat and fall asleep. Finally we round that last corner and see "White Lightning" waiting for us like a trusty steed. We made it back after 18 hours of constant movement and while we certainly won't be setting any speed records we are very proud of our effort. We drive back to George's cabin and eat ravenously until our stomachs are close to bursting and then settle once again into our sleeping bags once again. We are going to need our rest for tomorrow we head into the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Gorge.

Stay tuned for Part 2, The Cirque, in which I budget my time much more wisely and am able to offer a full written account of this incredible alpine playground.

-Dana Hickenbottom, AAI Program Coordinator and Guide

November and December Climbing Events

2009-11-08T05:30:00.000-08:00

--November 8 -- Athens, GA --UGA Boulder Bash '09

--November 11 -- Golden, CO --Secrets of Shangrila with Brot Coburn

--November 11 -- Boulder, CO --Rock Climbing Around the World presented by Sonnie Trotter

--November 12 -- Berkeley, CA --Wild & Scenic Environmental Film Festival

--November 12-14 -- Boulder, CO --Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival

--November 13 -- Seattle, WA --Secrets of Shangri-la
with Peter Athans

--November 13 -- Berkeley, CA --Touchstone Bouldering Series 5: Ironworks

--November 14 -- Fargo, ND --NDSU Fall Crawl

--November 14 -- Obed National Park Wild & Scenic River, TN --Lilly Boulder Competition

--November 14 -- Boulder, CO --Adventure Film Festival

--November 14 -- New York City, New York --Thirtieth Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner

--November 14 -- Mission Trails Regional Park, San Diego, CA --Climbers Loop Trail Work

--November 14 -- Dripping Springs, BLM, Las Cruces, NM --La Cueva Clean and Climb

--November 14 -- New River Gorge, WV --New River Gorge Adopt-a-Crag,
Burnwood (Rendezvous site)

--November 14 -- Wake Forest, NC --Fifth Annual AAC Eastern NC Get Together

--November 14 -- Collierville, TN --Memphis AAC Last Days of Fall Barbecue

--November 15 -- Seattle, wA --CC.com SausageFest'09 Slide Show

--November 21 -- Nacogdoches, TX --3rd Annual East Texas Climbing Competition

--November 21 -- Seattle, WA --14th Annual Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 21 -- Jasper, TN --Castle Rock TeamWorks Trail Day

--November 21 -- Mira Loma, CA --Mt. Rubidoux Clean-up

--November 21 -- Between Blowing Rock and Linville, NC --Adopt-A-Dump: Adopt-A-Crag at the Dump/Warpin Endorphin

--November 21 -- Pittsburgh, PA --Pitt Bouldering Competition/NRAC Fundraiser

--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009

--November 26 -- Vancouver, BC --4th Annual Reel Rock Film Tour

--November 27-29 -- West Cochise Stronghold Sweet Rock Campground, AZ --Cochise Stronghold Refuse Roundup 2009

--December 5 -- Duluth, MN -- North Shore Style Climbing Competition 2009

--December 6 -- Berkeley, CA --Sierra Nevada Section Annaul Holiday Dinner

--December 9 -- New Haven, CT --Connecticut ABS 11 Bouldering Competition

--December 12 -- Montbleu Resort, South Lake Tahoe --World Class Action Sports Cinematography featured at Tahoe Adventure Film Festival

--December 13 -- Sandstone, MN --Sandstone Ice Festival

--December 13 -- Bozman, MT --Bozman Ice Festival

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

2009-11-07T06:00:00.000-08:00

Well, ski season is approaching so I thought it was prudent to start spreading the snow stoke. Enjoy the videos and try to contain yourself while these folks shred the gnar!

International Mountain Day - Index Fundraiser - 12/11/09

2009-11-06T06:00:00.001-08:00

Most people have no idea what International Mountain Day is. We didn't know either. That is, until we got an email from the UIAA, reminding us about this important day.

How could we not know about this?

How could we not know that there is an entire holiday dedicated to the world's mountains, and by extension, to the world's mountaineers?

International Mountain Day is an opportunity to create awareness about the importance of mountains to life, to highlight the opportunities and constraints in mountain development and to build partnerships that will bring positive change to the world's mountains and highlands.

It was the UN General Assembly who designated December 11, from 2003 onwards, as 'International Mountain Day'. This decision results from the success of the UN International Year of Mountains in 2002, which increased global awareness of the importance of mountains, stimulated the establishment of national committees in 78 countries and strengthened alliances through promoting the creation of the International Partnership for Sustainable Development in Mountain Regions.

A climber aids up City Park (A1 or 5.13d) in Index
Photo by Alasdair Turner

How better to celebrate International Mountain Day than by putting on a climbing oriented event and party. And what better thing to support with the money generated by the event than the Washington Climber's Coalition and the fund to buy Index to make it a permanent climber's park?

The details are still scarce, but the American Alpine Institute will be running rock rescue clinics at the YMCA in Bellingham all day on December 11th. The two-hour clinics -- with a market value of of over eighty dollars each -- will be run on a donation basis with all proceeds going to the Index fund.

In the evening, we will have a slideshow/auction/raffle/party at New York Pizza and Bar in Bellingham. All proceeds from the raffle and auction will go to the Index fund. In addition to that, 10% of all the food and alcohol receipts from the night will also be donated!

The details of this event are still coming together. We're hoping to bring you a lot more information on our International Mountain Day Festival and fundraiser in the very near future. So stay tuned!

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 5, 2009

2009-11-05T06:00:00.000-08:00

Northwest:

--Julian Lopez, 43, of Santa Rosa, Calif., was airlifted off of Mount Shasta early Sunday morning after falling approximately 1,500 feet down the mountain, a Siskiyou County Sheriff’s Office news release stated. To read more, click here.

--The Snohomish County sheriff's office said Wednesday a Seattle man remains missing near Darrington. Searchers have been looking for 59-year-old Gregory Keller since Tuesday when his girlfriend reported he had failed to return Monday from a hiking trip that began Oct. 27. To read more, click here and here.

Sierra:

--A search dog team found the body of Kenneth Wade Brunette, 73, on the eastern slope of Mt. Whitney on Saturday afternoon. Brunette -- who was from Hansville, Washington -- had been missing since Sunday, when he was seen on the trail to the mountain -- at 14,505 feet the tallest peak in the contiguous United States. To read more, click here.

-- BBC News is highlighting how decreased snowpack and increased lightning strikes are going to cause wildfire flare ups in Yosemite National Park. According to research published in the International Journal of Wildland Fire, Yosemite is likely to see about a 20% increase in both the number of fires and the area of land which burns at high intensity, from 2020-2049. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--Nanga Parbat hasn't seen that many ascents. The ninth tallest peak in the world is a dangerous mountain. So why climb it if you can fly to the top? Ramón Morillas and Thomas de Dorlodot of Spain and Belgium have set the world record for the highest-altitude paragliding flight at 25,590 feet near the summit of the peak. To read more, click here.

--Frenchmen, Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff, successfully climbed the south spur of Nemjung (23,425') from October 11-15. The pair decided to attempt the peak after they were shut down on Mansalu. To read more, click here.

--Samuel Anthamatten, Michael Lerjen, and Simon Anthamatten recently completed an alpine-style first ascent of the south face of Jasemba (24,114') in Nepal. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A teenage skier was buried up to his neck but survived a weekend avalanche near Copper Mountain in Colorado. The Eagle County resident was skiing with two friends Saturday on the northeast side of Bartlett Peak between Copper Mountain and Leadville. His friends said he made five or six turns before an avalanche broke about 50 feet above him. He was buried up to his neck, but his friends dug him out and called for rescue. To read more, click here.

--The UIAA General Assembly on October 10 approved a code to serve as a beacon of mountaineering values, spelling out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment. The assembly named the document the UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration. The governing body met for its annual gathering from October 8 to 11 in Porto, Portugal. To read more, click here.

--Two men and their teenage sons recently tackled one of the world's most unforgiving summertime hikes: the Grand Canyon's parched and searing Royal Arch Loop. Along with bedrolls and freeze-dried food, the inexperienced backpackers carried a personal locator beacon — just in case. In the span of three days, the group pushed the panic button three times, mobilizing helicopters for dangerous, lifesaving rescues inside the Arizona canyon's steep walls. To read more, click here.

--Disturbed by recent accidents caused by fixed anchors that failed, the UIAA is warning climbers to be extremely vigiliant in checking for corrosion on anchors in tropical, marine environments. Early results from a study prompted by the accidents are startling. Among fixed anchors in tropical, marine locales examined for far, 10 to 20 percent would fail with a force of 1 to 5 KN applied. The UIAA standard for fixed anchors is a minimum of 22 KN (1 kN is the weight of a mass of 100 kg). To read more, click here.

--The snows of Kilimanjaro may soon be gone. The African mountain's white peak – made famous by writer Ernest Hemingway – is rapidly melting, researchers report. Some 85 percent of the ice that made up the mountaintop glaciers in 1912 was gone by 2007, researchers led by paleoclimatologist Lonnie Thompson of Ohio State University report in Tuesday's edition of Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. And more than a quarter of the ice present in 2000 was gone by 2007.

To read more, click here.

--Two different teams developed two different "extreme" Grade VI aid routes on Zion's infamous Streaked Wall. The routes, Lord Helmet (VI 5.9 A4) and Wet Stone Wall (VI 5.10 A4), join a paltry four other routes on the massive piece of stone. The low number of routes on the wall is a testament of how difficult and inaccessible the wall is. To read more, click here.

--Mountain climbing is their passion, but land conservation and climbing preservation and advocacy are their missions. The Western Mass Climber's Coalition, a 400-member strong nonprofit group, works with private land owners and other entities to ensure access to Western Massachusetts' limited climbing resources while protecting properties from development. "Our job is to build a sense of community and get people invested in the resources that are local to them," said Jeffrey D. Squire, of South Hadley, president of the Western Mass Climber's Coalition. To read more, click here.

-- Stranded with a sprained ankle on a snow-covered mountain, Eagle Scout Scott Mason put his survival skills to work by sleeping in the crevice of a boulder and jump-starting evergreen fires with hand sanitizer gel. New Hampshire officials praised his resourcefulness. So grateful was he for his rescuers that Mason, 17, sent $1,000 to the state. Sometime later, New Hampshire sent him a bill: $25,734.65 for the cost of rescuing him. New Hampshire is one of eight states with laws allowing billing for rescue costs, but only New Hampshire has made frequent attempts to do so — even strengthening its law last year to allow the suspension of hiking, fishing and driver's licenses of those who don't pay, according to an Associated Press review. To read more, click here.

--It used to be that whent he snow turned to slush and the last lift shut down for the season, ski areas emptied out and were quiet for the summer. Ski areas have increasingly stepped away from that outdated model and are now pursuing a bill in Congress that would allow for additional year round activities within their boundaries. The Ski Area Recreational Opportunity Enhancement Act of 2009 would clarify the authority of the Secretary of Agriculture to allow additional recreation uses and related facilities on National Forest lands in an effort to permit year-round recreation opportunities at ski resorts. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- November 4, 2009

2009-11-04T06:00:00.000-08:00

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--We came across this video of some savvy skiers who took advantage of the recent snowfall around Mt. Rainier. These turns were found on the Nisqually side of the mountain.

--"Visit Mt. Rainier" reported that Paradise, near Mt. Rainier, has been hit with almost a foot of snow in the last 24 hours!

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--Friend of the Institute, Jared VanderGriend sent in the above picture which he snapped last Wednesday of Mt. Shuksan.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Conditions in the Sierra are generally excellent in October and November for alpine ice climbing. Call our office to find out about guided ascents of classics like the U-Notch and V- Notch couloirs.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--The climbing season in the Alaska Range has come to an end. The American Alpine Institute is now accepting applications for the 2010 climbing season. Please call our office at 360-671-1505 for more information.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Route Profile - Johnny Vegas

2009-11-03T06:00:00.000-08:00

Johnny Vegas is an extremely popular, extremely cool little route that can be found on the lower tier of the Solar Slab Wall in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This phenomenal 5.6 or 5.7 route (depending on who you talk to) climbs up through three enjoyable pitches, all of which are in a spectacular position.

A father and daughter team low on Johnny Vegas.
Photo by Jason Martin

This is a slightly older route. It was put up in 1994, but didn't make it into a guidebook until 2000. The result is that this super classic line was overlooked for a six full years.

In 1999, I was climbing Beulah's Book, a classic 5.9 found just to the left, when I saw a rock jock leading a 5.10 variation to Johnny Vegas. I looked down to see an older man with a very small frame encouraging his much younger partner on. The belayer was none-other than the iconic Red Rock climber, George Uriosite.

A happy climber on the second pitch.
Photo by Jason Martin

George and his ex-wife Joanne were Red Rock pioneers. They were responsible for dozens and dozens of classic lines throughout the park. It was very cool to meet such an important person in the history of Red Rock. And everytime I've run into him since has been just as great.

It was also cool to see those guys on a route that I knew nothing about. So I thought it was important as a Vegas local to get on that thing as soon as possible. The very next day my partner and I returned to the Solar Slab area to make an ascent of Johnny Vegas. And we were incredibly happy that we did.

A climber nearing the top of the route.
Photo by Jason Martin

Since that first time on the route, I've climbed the line dozens and dozens of times. There are a few little things that people should know before sending Johnny Vegas:

Purists will say that the route is four pitches, not three. Indeed, super purists might even call it five pitches. It is three real pitches. Sometimes people make a tiny pitch to attain the base of the route. And there is a long stretch of 5.0 climbing at the top of the route.
Some guidebooks say to rappel this route. It is a rope eating nightmare. It is far better to rappel the nearby Solar Slab Gully.
There are two starts to the bottom of the route. If a party is going very slow on the right hand start, some may elect to pass them on the left.
The bottom of the route goes into the shade in the winter from approximately 10am to noon. When it's cold in the shade, this can make the route very very chilly.
This has become a super popular route. Make sure to get up early!

--Jason D. Martin

Recreation Fees Waived on Veterans Day, Nov. 11

2009-11-02T15:51:00.000-08:00

The American Alpine Institute just received the following note from the U.S. Forest Service:

PORTLAND, OR – The public may visit federal recreation sites for free on Veterans Day, Wednesday, Nov. 11.

The fee-free day honors U.S. veterans, members of the U.S. armed forces and their families.

The administrative fee waiver of recreation-use fees applies annually on Veterans Day at public recreation lands managed by the U.S. Forest Service, as well as by the National Park Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management and Bureau of Reclamation.

"Honoring veterans by waiving day-use fees is one way to recognize the contributions of those Americans who have served their country,” said U.S. Forest Service Fee Coordinator Jocelyn Biro. “We hope veterans will take this opportunity to visit the lands they helped protect.”

Federal agencies are authorized to charge standard amenity fees, commonly known as day-use fees, at recreation sites in the Northwest.

This fee waiver applies to day-use fees at Forest Service recreation sites across Oregon and Washington. This includes many picnic areas, boat launches, trailheads and visitor centers. Concession operations will continue to charge fees unless the permit holder wishes to participate. Fees for camping, cabin rentals, heritage expeditions, or other permits will not be waived.

Snowshoeing 101

2009-11-02T06:00:00.000-08:00

With the winter right around the corner, it's time to start thinking about winter activities, like ice climbing, and skiing and...snowshoeing?

Snowshoeing is one of the least technical things that we teach at the American Alpine Institute. But it is a skill that we commonly use on ice climbing trips and on expeditions. And indeed, it is a very good way for backcountry travelers to practice their wilderness skills in the coldest months of winter.

It is incredibly important for mountaineers to spend as much time as possible in the field over the winter months. You usually don't need snowshoes during the summer on the hard alpine snow, so you might question why this is important.

It's not about the snowshoes. Instead, it's about getting out. It doesn't matter if this is on skis or on foot or geared up with crampons and ice tools...the reason that it is important to get out is because the winter presents us with extremes. And the better you are at dealing with those extremes, the better that you will be on your next expedition.

Many people look at snowshoeing and see an uninspiring backcountry activity. And perhaps it is... But it is still an important skill to have a grasp on. And surprising enough, this is one backcountry skill that you can probably master with just a little bit of research. The following videos will help you to do this.

In the following video, two very boring people explain snowshoe styles in a very boring way. And while the video might not be very exciting with its elevator music and monotone explanation of the snowshoe, it does have some good content. The video does a great job of defining the different types of snowshoes that you might want to purchase.

While snowshoeing is not skiing -- and thus doesn't really require much skill -- there are still a few tips that will help you when you are traveling in the backcountry on snowshoes. In this first video, a snowshoeing guide describes the skills required to move uphill. This is incredibly important for those who are thinking about large mountain expeditions to places like Denali or Mount Vinson.

In the second video, the guide describes some important techniques for descent. This is a very good introduction to the specific problems that you will encounter on steeper slopes when descending.

And the last video describes traversing on snowshoes.

--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

2009-10-31T06:00:00.000-07:00

Well, I missed last weeks posting so I hope all of you loyal fans (I know there must be a couple of you out there) were able to supply your own stoke for the week. But worry not, I have found a couple gems for you this time around. These two videos take place on the beautiful Grandes Jorasses near Chamonix. I'll let the videos speak for themselves but I can vouch for their awesomeness!

Sunburns in the Mountains

2009-10-30T06:00:00.000-07:00

Over the decade that I've been guiding, I've decided that the greatest enemy to the climber is not the rain, it's not the snow and it's not the wind. Instead, it is the sun. There is nothing more relenting and nothing that will have such dire long term effects as the sun.

There was a time in my life when I went from working in the heat of the desert directly to high altitude snow. These are both places where the sun is far more dangerous than in a city. And while I'm not aware of any reports of a higher incidence of skin cancer among climbers, it wouldn't surprise me if this were the case.

The most common places for climbers to get burned are on the tops of the ears, the tip of the nose and on the lips. High altitude climbers on glaciers will also see burns develop on the roof of their mouths and inside their nostrils.

The Author Belaying on Mount Baker
The bandanna covers both his ears and neck.

It might seem obvious, but it is incredibly important to wear sunscreen and cover as much skin as possible when you are in bright sunlight. Over the years I've had a few people on glaciers who decided that they "tan well" and elected not to wear sunscreen. In each of these cases, the climbers contracted serious burns that were so bad, they actually scabbed up.

Whether in the desert or at high altitude one must apply sunscreen and then reapply it often.

Many climbers on big mountains will wear a Buff to cover their faces or will carry multiple bandannas to pin around their faces and necks "Al Qaeda" style. Most will wear sunglasses with a nose beak. And many will apply sunscreen inside the nostrils.

In the desert, some will wear a bandana under their helmets and over their ears and neck. Sunshirts and shirts with collars are also popular. Sunshirts are designed to reflect most of the sunlight away while providing good coverage. Shirts with collars provide a little extra shade for the neck.

Sunshirt
These hiking oriented shirts can be found at most outdoor stores.

Following is a quick breakdown of how to treat a sunburn from the Sunburn Resource:

1. When treating sunburn, it is very important to prevent further damage or irritation. To prevent sunburned skin from getting worse, keep from further direct exposure to the sun, and stay indoors as much as possible.

2. Closely observe the affected areas for blisters. When blisters are present, this means that the skin has been severely damaged, and complications are highly probable. Don’t try to break them, or you’ll increase the risk of infection. If blisters are present on a large area of the skin, get to a hospital’s emergency room immediately. Other instances that warrant medical attention right away are when severe swelling causes breathing difficulty, when pain on the affected area is terrible, and when serious swelling occurs around the limbs such that it threatens to constrict blood flow and cause hands or feet to go numb or turn bluish. Too much sun exposure can also cause other related ailments, such as sun poison or heat stroke. When any of these are suspected or when high fever is detected, consult a doctor immediately.

3. Take pain relievers to help ease the pain and swelling. Aspirin and ibuprofen are examples of oral medications commonly taken to minimize these sunburn symptoms, but do avoid giving aspirin to a child or teenager. Also, consult a doctor before taking any pain killer if you’re also taking prescribed medication.

4. Drink lots of water. This will help you regain lost fluids in your body, as well as aid your system in its recovery from sunburn. Fresh fruit juice, such as watermelon, is also a good alternative. Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated beverages, as these may cause further dehydration.

5. Regularly apply a cool, soothing cream or aloe lotion to the affected area to keep it moist. Aloe extract has powerful healing properties, and is most effective in its pure form. Vitamin enriched lotions and moisturizers may also help speed healing. When treating moderate to severe burns, 1% hydrocortisone cream may also be used. Avoid using butter, oil, and strong ointments on burned skin, as these will only irritate and worsen sunburn symptoms.

On mountains like Denali, climbers must completely cover their skin.

6. Shower with cool water whenever possible. This should help ease the pain and discomfort on your skin until it begins to heal. Use very mild soap, and refrain from using abrasive personal skin products, such as exfoliating skin formulas and body scrubs to avoid irritation.

7. Wear loose-fitting clothes made of natural fibers, such as cotton or silk, as sunburned skin tends to be extremely sensitive, and harsher fabrics will do more harm than good. When heading outdoors, wear long sleeved shirts and long pants that cover the affected areas.

8. Leave peeling skin alone. When your skin starts peeling, try your very best not to scratch, scrub or strip the dry skin off. The layer of skin underneath the peeling is still very sensitive, and will only lead to further skin damage when forcibly exposed. Just continue using moisturizer to help relieve itching and dryness.

Following is a short video on sunburn treatment:

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- October 29, 2009

2009-10-29T06:00:00.001-07:00

Northwest:

--Northwest climber and guide Paul Bailey was recently injured in a climbing accident in Australia. It appears that Bailey took a leader-fall, broke both wrists and suffered some head injuries. The most current information on this accident indicates that this incident may have been due to bolt failure. To read more about the accident, click here and here.

The Three Sisters in Late Season Conditions
Photo from Wikipedia

--A Bend woman on a hike to summit the South and Middle Sisters in Oregon became lost after nightfall Saturday, prompting an all-night search on foot, by horseback and by air. She turned up Sunday morning, having walked some 25 miles - cold, hungry and tired, but otherwise alright, authorities said. To read more, click here and here.

--Two members of Congress from Washington State have introduced a bill that would make permanent the 2001 Roadless Areas rule that has been tied up in legal wrangling since 2001. Sen. Maria Cantwell (D-WA) and Rep. Jay Inslee (D-WA) introduced the legislation that would ban almost all road construction on 58 million acres of roadless national forests. The House bill has 152 co-sponsors while the Senate bill has 25 co-sponsors. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Even as the severe winds and cold hit the Eastern Sierra, a 73 year old man from the state of Washington went missing. The man reportedly planned to climb Mt. Whitney in a day trip on Sunday. Family reported that he did not return. Tuesday morning, members of the Inyo Search and Rescue Team gathered to go look for the man. To read more, click here.

--Several Ranger districts in the Eastern Sierra have scheduled prescribed burns during the upcoming fall and winter months to reduce hazardous fuel buildup and to improve the condition of wild habitats. The Sierra Journal has inquired about the impacts of these fires to local climbing areas. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

Singer and songwriter, Taylor Mitchell was killed in a coyote attack.
Photo from myspace.com

--A 19-year-old folk singer from Toronto has died after being attacked by two coyotes in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Taylor Mitchell died overnight at the QEII Health Sciences Centre in Halifax. Mitchell was hiking on the Skyline Trail when she was attacked Tuesday afternoon. She was taken to the hospital in Cheticamp, then airlifted to Halifax in critical condition. To read more, click here.

--Gunks rock climbing enthusiasts asked the New York state Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation Thursday to extend climbing to a larger section of cliff face under the Minnewaska State Park Preserve master plan. To read more, click here and for an Access Fund action alert on this subject, click here.

--Climbing magazine posted a great article written by an amputee on techniques for adaptive climbing. To read the article, click here.

--Nature reporter Anjali Nayar hiked for 21 days in Northern Bhutan to find out how this tiny Himalayan nation is dealing with rapidly melting glaciers. Watch the audio slideshow of the trip below:

Conditions Report -- October 28, 2009

2009-10-28T06:00:00.000-07:00

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

Above the chimneys on Epinephrine. Photo courtesy of Nate Tack

--Nate Tack and friends recently had a minor send-fest around the Canyon. They climbed some classic routes and found what looked to be fantastic climbing conditions. To read the complete report click here.

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--"Visit Mt. Rainier" reported that Paradise, near Mt. Rainier, has been hit with almost a foot of snow in the last 24 hours!

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Two popular routes through Yosemite have been closed for the second time this month due to snow and icy weather. Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are both closed and park officials are currently evaluating whether or not to open them again this season.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Mount Baker Skills Weekend

2009-10-27T06:00:00.001-07:00

Here are some photos from a three day Mt. Baker skills weekend from a month ago. It was a late season trip to Mt. Baker and turned out to have some amazing weather.

A fattened Marmot ready for winter.

White Tailed Ptarmigan starting to change color for the coming snows.

Kate and her cup of coffee.

Setting up the rope for glacier travel.

Kate and the blue sky. It is not this blue very often in Washington.

Smiles all around.

A desperate skier makes for a good photo, but what must have been some pretty crappy turns.

The clearest day I have ever seen on Mt. Baker.

Using our new skills to negotiate the glacier.

More crevasses.

Liz

Kate

Sunset on Mt. Baker.

Ice climbing.

Ice Climbing

--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide

Climbers are Funny!

2009-10-26T06:00:00.000-07:00

Mountain Guide Jokes:

What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend?

Homeless.

How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet?

Tell them they can live there.

How do you get them back out again?

Tell them that they have to pay rent.

How do you know the mountain guide at the party?

Don't worry, he'll tell you.

Other Funny Climbing Related Things:

You might be a Mountain Climber if...

1. You own a $75 dress suit and a $1000 Gore-Tex suit.
2. You have ever frozen your lips to an ice screw while blowing an ice plug at your partner.
3. You have ever used an ice axe to chop weeds in the garden.
4. You have more summit pictures than wedding pictures.
5. You've ever had icicles hanging from any part of your face.
6. You've ever fallen so far that you've run out of adrenaline before you ran out of rope.
7. You say "Namaste" instead of "Hello."
8. You like the smell of burning yak dung.
9. What you call cold is not on the thermometer scale.
10. When you hear the words "nose," "captain," or "aid," your hands start hurting and swelling.
11. You arrive at a climbing gym with stoppers and cams still in your bag.
12. You hear the name "Hillary" and think about Everest instead of the Secretary of State.
13. And finally, you understood all the previous lines. If you laughed at any of these lame lines, then you should definitely get back to work.

--Most people get to the top of a climb and pose for a photo. This is a great piece on the many many different photogenic and not-so-photogenic poses of climbers after they've summitted.

--Some people write some really dumb comments on the Forest Service Comment cards. To read some of these, click here. My favorite is, "a small deer came into camp and stole a bag of pickles. Is there any way I can get reimbursed?"

--Jason D. Martin

October and November Climbing Events

2009-10-25T05:30:00.000-07:00

--October 22-24 -- Golden, CO -- Mountainfilm on Tour

--October 23-25 -- Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart 2009

--October 24 -- Seattle, WA --Northwest Snow & Avalanche Summit 2009

--October 24 -- Chapel Hill, NC --2009 Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 24 -- North Conway, NH --New England Annual Fall BBQ

--October 24 -- Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area, NV --Make a Difference Day

--October 24 -- Grand County, Utah --Castleton Tower Stewardship Weekend

--October 24 -- Idyllwild, CA --Suicide Rock Trail Day

--October 24 -- Boulder, CO --Spot Gym Psychedelia Competition

--October 25 -- Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart

--October 26 -- Golden, CO --Celebrate Eldo: Ace And AAC Book Release Party

--October 30 -- Easton, PA --Halloween Hang

--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl

--October 30 -- Telluride, CO --Telleride Mountain Film on Tour

--October 31 -- Phoenix, AZ --North McDowell Mountain Climbers Path Trail Building

--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl

--November 4 -- Golden, CO --Sean Swarner, Cancer Climber: Marmot Speaker Series Hosted By The American Alpine Club

--November 7 -- Bishop, CA --AAC Fall Highball, Doug Robinson show

--November 7 -- Bellingham, WA --Alpine Safety Awareness Program Dinner & Fundraiser

--November 7 -- Brooklyn, ME --Caliente! A Night of Salsa Dancing to Benefit Kismet Rock Foundation

--November 8 -- Athens, GA --UGA Boulder Bash '09

--November 12-14 -- Boulder, CO --Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival

--November 14 -- Fargo, ND --NDSU Fall Crawl

--November 14 -- Obed National Park Wild & Scenic River, TN --Lilly Boulder Competition

--November 14 -- Boulder, CO --Adventure Film Festival

--November 14 -- New York City, New York --Thirtieth Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner

--November 14 -- Wake Forest, NC --Fifth Annual AAC Eastern NC Get Together

--November 15 -- Seattle, wA --CC.com SausageFest'09 Slide Show

--November 21 -- Nacogdoches, TX --3rd Annual East Texas Climbing Competition

--November 21 -- Seattle, WA --Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009

Diamox - The Wonder Drug?

2009-10-23T06:00:00.000-07:00

Diamox is the trade name for a drug called Acetazolamide. This is a "altitude wonder drug" that many people take to increase the speed of their acclimatization. It is also a drug that some people put a little too much hope into instead of acclimitizing properly.

The reality is that Diamox is not a wonder drug. It is is a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor that is commonly used to treat glaucoma, epilepsy, hypertension, cystinuria, dural ectasia and of course, altitude sickness. The drug is designed to help your body make the chemical changes that it needs to make in order to function better at altitude.

We get a lot of questions about this drug from people who are getting ready to go on expeditions. But we also get them from people who are going to go on relatively low-altitude climbs.

Those who are climbing peaks that are less than 14,000 feet tall really shouldn't worry about any type of specialized drug to acclimatize. They should just take their time. Those who are climbing peaks that are between 14,000 and 16,000 feet should only take the drug if they've had problems in the past. And those climbing peaks that are 16,000 feet tall or more, should really see how their body reacts before filling it full of drugs.

The reason that we advise caution with this drug is that it has side-effects that can be difficult to deal with. Diamox is a diuretic. It causes you to urinate frequently. This, of course, can lead to dehydration, which is a contributing factor to altitude sickness. It can also cause a very unusual sensation in the fingers and toes. It feels like they have fallen asleep. This could be confusing or even scary in extremely cold environments.

Diamox - A Prophylactic?

Some climbers choose to take Diamox prophylactically, starting a few days before going to altitude. A percentage of climbers respond well to this, especially if they take between 125 milligrams (mg) to 500 mg per day before ascending rapidly to 10,000 feet or more.

What is rapidly? This is generally a fast one to two day ascent from sea level. Examples of rapid ascents might include Mount Rainier or Mount Whitney in two days...

Those who have a history of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) are urged to take Diamox prophylactically especially with plans for a rapid ascent or plans to ascend 2000 feet or more per day after reaching 10,000 feet.

Diamox forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, the conjugate base of carbonic acid. The more bicarbonate excreted, the more acidic the blood gets. The more acidic the blood gets, the more that ventilation is stimulated. This will ultimately result in more oxygen in the blood.

Clearly the changes in the blood take time. It takes time for the body to catch up to your altitude. As such, Diamox cannot be seen as an immediate fix for AMS. If the symptoms are bad, then climbers are urged to immediately descend before the AMS devolves into a life-threatening cerebral or pulmonary edema.

When to Take Diamox

Many guides argue that the best time to take a drug like Diamox is right before bed. As I know that I don't tend to breathe as deeply at night as during the day, I will usually take Diamox before I go to bed when I'm at high camps on high altitude peaks.

On the one hand an evening dose of the drug may help you acclimatize better up high at night. It may also keep you from getting sick at night. But on the other, you are unlikely to sleep well due to the whole, "I have to pee every five minutes" thing.

Others feel that the morning is better because it doesn't interrupt your sleep.

Alternatives

There has been a lot of research over the last few years that indicate that Ginkgo Biloba may work extremely well in acclimatization. As this is easily attainable at health food stores and has few side effects in healthy people, it may be a much better alternative to Diamox.

On the other hand, those taking anticoagulants such as ibuprofen, aspirin, warfarin, or antidepressants should be wary of potentially dangerous side effects.

Altitude Research

Understanding altitude and its effects on the body is an extremely broad topic. This blog has only touched on the bare surface of the subject and indeed, only on the bare surface of the uses of Diamox. Those interested in learning more should check out Going Higher: Oxygen, Man and Mountains by Charles Houston or Altitude Illness: Prevention and Treatment by Stephen Bezruchka.

A Final Note

We are not doctors. We are climbers. And the advice here is just that, advice. All the information here is based on our experiences working at altitude and everyone's body reacts differently under such circumstances.

Diamox is a prescription drug. And it is extremely important that you get proper medical advice before self-medicating with any such drug. If you are on an expedition with a guide, it is also important to tell your guide whenever you take any drugs.

High altitude climbing is an awesome experience. Diamox is merely one tool that will help you to get up high. Another, and perhaps far more important tool, is to use good sense, good judgment and to acclimitize properly.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- October 22, 2009

2009-10-22T06:00:00.000-07:00

Northwest:

--Preliminary autopsy findings in the death of a Portland teen at a Central Oregon wilderness camp may lead to criminal charges for staff members. Sergey Blashchishen, a 16-year-old Portland boy, died hiking in Central Oregon late last summer. According to his mother, Sergey was at the Sage Walk Wilderness Camp to "get his life back on track after dropping out of school." To read more, click here.

--Four unprepared hikers were safely escorted off the Pacific Crest Trail early on Monday morning after becoming lost, Kittitas County sheriff’s officials said. The King County Sheriff’s Office received the first report that the group was in distress and relayed the information to Kittitas County about 8 p.m. Sunday, Undersheriff Clay Myers said. The group was stranded on the trail in the area of Mirror Lake, in the western area of Kittitas County just east of the King County border, Myers said. To read more, click here.

A Climber on the Stellar Backbone Ridge (IV, 5.9) on Dragontail Peak
The Enchantment Area may soon go well beyond peaks like Dragontail to include Mount Stuart and Ingalls Peak.

--The USFS is currently to expand the Enchantment permit area to include the Ingalls Lake, Headlight Basin, and Mt. Stuart areas. The soonest this could be implemented would be 2010. These areas sustain high use levels, in excess of what the fragile subalpine plant communities can support. A NEPA (legal) decision was made in 1993 to limit entry to these areas, but we have stalled implementing this decision for a variety of reasons. If implemented, the Cle Elum Ranger Station would likely assist us with issuing daily permits and serving as a venue for hikers to pick up their permits. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--After enjoying an early opener, Mammoth Mountain Ski Area has closed. Mammoth Mountain opened last Friday with a day of free skiing and snowboarding, and remained open for the weekend. However, Mammoth issued a press release Sunday afternoon stating the mountain would be closed starting Monday. To read more, click here.

--Park Officials say that the three backpackers missing in Kings Canyon National Park have been found alive. The three men from Southern California were due back from a 65 mile backpack trip in Sierra on Monday but did not return. A search effort started, soon after but recent storm hampered the search effort. To read more, click here.

--The wet and wild storm that blew through the Eastern Sierra last week, unexpectedly opened the ski area for a few days, but also ended up stranding two backpackers in the local mountains. Mono Sheriff Officials report that Search and Rescue Team was called out on Friday October 16, for a report of two backpackers stranded in Red’s Meadow. The two men from Louis, California, 36-year-old Kevin Garbi and 46-year-old Randall Dennis had started their trip at Lake Mary, but had been stuck out when the storm hit. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--Friends dubbed him “Super Dan.” Pilot Daniel McGregor, 35, lived up to that nickname Friday when he crawled out of the fiery wreckage of his crashed airplane and walked 20 miles through the wilderness of Denali National Park to reach help. The crash, on a mountainside near the Toklat River, about seven miles from the park road, claimed the life of wolf biologist Gordon Haber. Initial reports stated McGregor also died in the crash. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--It's been a tough Fall in the Himalaya. Italian climber and mountain guide Roby Piantoni, 32, fell to his death on Shishapangma (26,289') in Tibet. The climber fell over a thousand feet during a summit push early in the morning on Wednesday. To read more, click here.

--Spain's Edurne Pasaban said Wednesday she has abandoned a bid to climb the Shishapangma mountain, throwing into doubt her attempt to become the first woman to scale all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres (26,240 feet). She had planned to climb the 8,046-metre Shisha Pangma this year, her 13th 'eight-thousander', and then Annapurna in Nepal in the spring of 2010. To read more, click here.

Annapurna
Photo from Wikipedia

--Edyrne's Pasaban's main rival was also shut down. Mountaineer Oh Eun-sun burst into tears before a llama’s altar after delaying her plan to scale the Himalayan peak of Annapurna due to bad weather. She seeks to become the first woman to conquer the world’s 14 highest peaks. After giving thanks for her safe descent and pledging to return next year, she expressed frustration but said she has no regrets. To read more, click here.

--Marko Prezelj, Rok Blagus and Luka Lindic climbed three new routes in the Bhagirathi group of the Garhwal Himalaya, India. Prezelj and friends made camp in the area for the better part of a month, but climbed most of their routes late in September. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Authorities in central Pennsylvania say a missing hiker was found alive along a trail but died before he could be carried to safety. Authorities said 64-year-old David Bone of Mechanicsburg went hiking Tuesday in Bald Eagle State Forest in western Synder County. When he did not return, about 50 people began searching that night in temperatures close to freezing. To read more, click here.

--Prolific desert climber, Kyle Copeland, 50, died in Salt Lake City on October 3 after a twenty-year battle with Crohn's Disease. Copeland was responsible for dozens of first ascents in places like Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Longs Peak, South Platte, Nevada's Wild Granites, Arches National Park, Zion National Park and the greater Moab, Utah area. To read more, click here and here.

--David Leon Waggoner, owner and manager of Colorado Custom Hardware of Laramie, died peacefully on the evening of Oct. 7, 2009, at his home in Laramie after a brief illness. He was 53 years old. Waggoner is best known as the innovator who invented the Alien camming device. To read more, click here.

--A group of climbers has been criticised after they abandoned a wheelchair-bound friend halfway up Mount Snowdon. Six martial arts experts were on a sponsored charity climb up the peak in North Wales, carrying the man in his wheelchair. But before they reached the summit they found it too difficult to keep carrying him and decided to carry on up the mountain without the 31-year-old man, leaving him sitting alone on the path. By the time they came back down for him they were too tired to resume the wheelchair lift and had to call out rescuers. He was helped to safety by a mountain rescue team and was found to be suffering from mild exposure. To read more, click here.

--A one-handed Scots action hero who scales the world's most daring climbs without safety ropes is to star in a film. Despite been born with most of his left hand missing, daredevil Kevin Shields has made an extraordinary series of impressive and bold ascents. Single-Handed, by director Paul Diffley, follows Kevin on terrifying solo climbs. Kevin, 30, from Fort William, Inverness-shire, only has a thumb on his left hand. To read more, click here.

--The ripest recipe for trouble in a national park? Young men hiking on a weekend who make a bad decision or two and end up hurt, exhausted or lost. On average, 11 search-and-rescue operations are launched in national parks every day. While expenses average around $900, the price can easily jump into the thousands of dollars, according to a new analysis of search-and-rescue operations over 15 years. Travis Heggie, an assistant professor at the University of North Dakota who headed up the study, also found that roughly 20 percent of the people who called for help likely would have died if they had not been rescued. To read more, click here.

--Alain Robert, the French “Spiderman,” recently found a perfect crack system on the 499 foot Tour Ariana, a defense building in Paris, France. Obviously, the cops were waiting at the top for him again. To read more, click here.

--Scott Semple asks, is climbing sponsorship a sin? And he makes a pretty strong argument that it is here. To read what the climbing community thinks about this, click here.

Redpoint Autobelay Device

--Climbing wall owners and operators of climbing towers are being warned to stop using a belay device. The Redpoint and Auto-Belay descenders allow a controlled lower without a belayer operating the rope from the ground. But two climbers have been injured recently when the Redpoint device allowed a rapid descent. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- October 21, 2009

2009-10-21T06:00:00.000-07:00

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

--Due to the warm temperatures seen in the Cascades this summer the snow which typically covers our countless glaciers has melted, exposing the glacial ice below. To read more about the hazards this presents, particularly on Mt. Rainier click here.

The Coleman Headwall at sunset. Photo by Dan Helmstedder

--Mount Baker is now in very icy late season conditions. To access the Football Field and the Black Buttes Camp on the north side of the mountain, climbers must traverse significantly right of the normal approach. Climbers on the Coleman-Deming are traversing far to the right from the top of the Pumice Ridge and are joining the Easton Glacier route on the right side of the Roman Wall. Dan Helmstedder recently went on a little scouting mission up to 10,200 ft on the Coleman-Deming. To read what conditions he found click here.

--The Easton Glacier route on the south side of Mount Baker is also quite broken up. Many crevasses currently require belayed crossings to safely surpass. There is exposed gravel in the ice on the Roman Wall.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth, and Highway 2.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--The huge storm that passed over California last week dumped some serious amounts of rain in the mountains. In Yosemite Valley they received 5.41 inches, and at the South Entrance to the park they got a whopping 10 inches! On another related note two popular routes through Yosemite have been closed for the second time this month due to snow and icy weather. Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are both closed and park officials are currently evaluating whether or not to open them again this season.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow this link to read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass, and Yosemite National Park.

RED ROCK CANYON:

--The American Alpine Institute's Red Rock season officially started on September 21st. Please call our office for up-to-date information on courses and trips offered in Red Rock.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

--There are plans to change the fee structure for camping and climbing in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more about the proposed changes and to find out how you can help keep the fees as they currently are, please click here.

JOSHUA TREE:

--The American Alpine Institute Joshua Tree season has started, please contact us for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Denali National Park and Preserve experienced its first significant snowfall of the season last week. Accumulation ranged from 2 inches at the Park Headquarters to almost 2 feet at the Eielson Visitor Center. The Denali Park road is still open to private vehicles to the Teklanika River Rest Area at mile 30.

--Forecast for Denali.

--Webcam for Denali National Park.

Flightseeing the Alaska Range

2009-10-20T06:00:00.001-07:00

AAI's Director, Dunham Gooding and I, went to Alaska over the weekend to attend meetings with Denali National Park and Wrangle-St. Elias National Park. While we were in Talkeetna, the wonderful people at K2 Aviation offered to bring us up on a flight tour of the Alaska Range. We, of course, greedily accepted the offer!

Following is a photo essay of our flight. Click on the photos if you would like to see a larger version. All of these photos were taken on October 16th.

Mount Hunter
The North Buttress can be seen on the left-hand side of the mountain.
The North Buttress of Hunter is a world-class feature that includes the iconic Moonflower Buttress Route (AK Grade VI, 5.8, A2, M5, AI 6)

Mount Hunter silhouetted by the Sun

Denali
The flat spot just left of center is where the 14,000 foot camp for the West Buttress Route is established every year.

The West Rib of Denali (AK Grade IV, 60-Degree Ice)
The prominent rib in the center of the picture is climbed on the right hand side and then followed until it reaches the upper mountain.

The West Face of Mount Huntington
There are two popular routes on the West Face, the Harvard Route (AK Grade VI, A2, 70-degree ice) and the West Face Couloir (AK Grade V, 85-degree ice)

The French Ridge (AK Grade IV, Ice to 65-Degrees)
This was the site of Mount Huntington's first ascent in 1964 by a party led by the iconic alpinist, Lionel Terray.

The North Face of Mount Huntington
This north wall is seldom climbed due to the extreme avy danger.

Mooses Tooth
Ham and Eggs (AK Grade IV, 5.9, AI 4) can be found at the back of the deep gully on the right.

The West Ridge of Mooses Tooth
(AK Grade V, 80-Degree Ice, Extensive Cornicing)

The East Face of Mooses Tooth
The routes on the East Face are seriously hard. A couple of examples include Dance of the Woo Li Masters (AK Grade VII, A5, 5.10b) and Arctic Rage (AK Grade VI AI6+R, A2).

An avalanche on the Buckskin Glacier.

The Ruth Glacier

These photos of the Ruth show how large valley glaciers imitate rivers.

For information on our Alaska programs, please click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Investigation Concluded at Airplane Crash Site in Denali National Park

2009-10-19T11:32:00.000-07:00

AAI just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Personnel from the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB), Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), and the National Park Service concluded their on-scene investigation of the crash site above the East Fork of the Toklat River in Denali National Park and Preserve at approximately 3:00 p.m. today. All personnel have been airlifted from the scene. The remains of Gordon Haber, 67, of Denali Park, have been removed from the aircraft wreckage and will be released to the Office of the State Medical Examiner. Working with the owner, park rangers are developing a plan to remove the plane wreckage.

Pilot Dan McGregor, 35, of Denali Park remains at the Harborview Medical Center in Seattle, undergoing treatment for burns. McGregor not only survived the crash, but walked approximately 20 miles from the crash site to the Igloo Creek Campground, where he encountered two campers from New Hampshire late Thursday night. Nicholas Rodrick and Jesse Hoagland walked four miles with McGregor to the Teklanika River Rest Area, where their car was parked, and drove him to his home just outside the park boundary. They returned to the campground today to retrieve their camping equipment.

No additional information about the accident will be available until the NTSB has completed their investigation.

Crevasse Rescue: Part 1 - Arresting a Fall

2009-10-19T06:00:00.001-07:00

Arresting a crevasse fall is often overlooked and almost never practiced with real weight. At American Alpine Institute we find it important to allow students to practice a real crevasse fall and rescue a real weight. Catching a real person and rescuing them from a crevasse will almost certainly make people take glacier travel more seriously in the future. AAI practices crevasse rescue on two person teams since this makes it more difficult and creates a much more serious situation for the rescuer.

Note: If you are going to go out and practice this in a real life setting it is VERY important that you set up a second safety line in case the fall is not arrested. It is difficult to stop a fall on a two person rope team. If you do not know how to set up a safe backup system DO NOT DO THIS. In addition don't jump in a crevasse with your crampons on or an ice axe in your hand. Give AAI a call and sign up for a day or two of private guiding and have a guide oversee your practice.

The photos below show a two person rope team in which the second person on the rope falls into a crevasse. In our practice sessions the second sits on the edge of the crevasse and gives the rope team leader some warning by yelling falling. They then slide off the edge of the crevasse simulating a crevasse fall. The rope team leader will then arrest the fall by falling to the ground on their stomach and planting the pick of their ice axe into the snow.

Here you can see the second person on the rope begining to slide into the crevasse, and the leader about to self arrest.

It is very important in glacier travel to not allow excess slack to build up in the rope as the team travels across the glacier. If there is too much slack in the rope between the two climbers then the rope team leader would be shock loaded and have a much harder time stopping the fall into the crevasse.
Here the leader falls toward the ground ready to place their pick in the snow.

A close up of the fall.

Once the pick is placed in the snow the rescuer used the weight of their upper body to hold the pick in the snow.

Most of the holding power of a self arrest comes from the legs. The rescuer will not be able to build an anchor if they can not get their hands free. The rescuer must kick the feet into the snow so all of the weight of the fall can be held by the legs.
Here the rescuer has arrested the fall and is ready to build the anchor. This is a good time for the person in the crevasse to practice prusiking up and down the rope while the rescuer sets up the crevasse rescue system.

The rescuer after arresting the fall and kicking his feet into the snow.

This is the first in a three part series on crevasse rescue. Stay tuned for Part two: Building the anchor, and Part 3: Setting up a pulley system.

--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide

October and November Climbing Events

2009-10-18T05:30:00.000-07:00

--October 17-18 -- Baraboo, WI -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

--October 17 -- Chicago, IL --Reel Rock Film Tour Chicago

--October 17-18 -- Baraboo, WI --Mountain Gear's UClimb

--October 17 -- Thurman, NY --SRCFC Crane mountain Adopt-a-crag

--October 17 -- Collinsville, AL --Griffin Falls Adopt A Crag 2009

--October 18 -- Estes Park, CO --Lumpy Ridge Trail Day

--October 19 -- Birdsboro, PA --3rd Annual Clean and Climb at Bridsboro Quarry

--October 22 -- Oregon City, OR --Madrone Wall Public Hearing

--October 22-24 -- Golden, CO -- Mountainfilm on Tour

--October 23-25 -- Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart 2009

--October 24 -- Seattle, WA --Northwest Snow & Avalanche Summit 2009

--October 24 -- Chapel Hill, NC --2009 Reel Rock Film Tour

--October 24 -- North Conway, NH --New England Annual Fall BBQ

--October 24 -- Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area, NV --Make a Difference Day

--October 24 -- Grand County, Utah --Castleton Tower Stewardship Weekend

--October 24 -- Idyllwild, CA --Suicide Rock Trail Day

--October 24 -- Boulder, CO --Spot Gym Psychedelia Competition

--October 25 -- Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, CA --Climb Smart

--October 26 -- Golden, CO --Celebrate Eldo: Ace And AAC Book Release Party

--October 30 -- Easton, PA --Halloween Hang

--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl

--October 30 -- Telluride, CO --Telleride Mountain Film on Tour

--October 31 -- Phoenix, AZ --North McDowell Mountain Climbers Path Trail Building

--October 31 -- New Haven, CT --Monster Brawl

--November 4 -- Golden, CO --Sean Swarner, Cancer Climber: Marmot Speaker Series Hosted By The American Alpine Club

--November 7 -- Bishop, CA --AAC Fall Highball, Doug Robinson show

--November 7 -- Bellingham, WA --Alpine Safety Awareness Program Dinner & Fundraiser

--November 7 -- Brooklyn, ME --Caliente! A Night of Salsa Dancing to Benefit Kismet Rock Foundation

--November 8 -- Athens, GA --UGA Boulder Bash '09

--November 12-14 -- Boulder, CO --Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival

--November 14 -- Fargo, ND --NDSU Fall Crawl

--November 14 -- Obed National Park Wild & Scenic River, TN --Lilly Boulder Competition

--November 14 -- Boulder, CO --Adventure Film Festival

--November 14 -- New York City, New York --Thirtieth Annual New York Section Black Tie Dinner

--November 14 -- Wake Forest, NC --Fifth Annual AAC Eastern NC Get Together

--November 15 -- Seattle, wA --CC.com SausageFest'09 Slide Show

--November 21 -- Nacogdoches, TX --3rd Annual East Texas Climbing Competition

--November 21 -- Seattle, WA --Seattle Bouldering Challenge

--November 22 -- Baltimore, MD --Loyola University Maryland ClimbMax Climbing Competition 2009

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to make you laugh!

2009-10-17T06:00:00.000-07:00

We stumbled upon this video series released by Teva and thought that it was worth sharing to all you devoted Weekend Warriors. Please keep in mind that AAI does not endorse any methods or practices used by "The Naturist". I realize this will become incredibly obvious once you watch the videos but I've got to say it anyway. Enjoy!

Part 1 - Honey and Water

Part 2 - Fire

Part 3 - The Hunt

Red Rock Canyon Fee Changes

2009-10-16T06:00:00.000-07:00

The BLM and the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area are seriously considering major changes to the fee structure at Red Rock. Entrance to the Scenic Drive and camping will both become more expensive.

The American Alpine Institute just received the following letter from the Southern Nevada District Office of the BLM:

Dear Interested Party:

On August 14, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Southern Nevada District Office released the draft Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Business Plan for public comment. This draft document provides the public with the opportunity to review the functional responsibilities, operational standards and financial picture of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The draft business plan addresses proposed changes in the fee schedule and complies with changes in federal authorities that authorize the BLM to collect recreation fees.

As part of the public comment period, two meetings have been scheduled to provide information, address participant questions and offer an opportunity for participants to provide comments to a recorder in regard to the draft business plan.

To accommodate attendee schedules. two meetings will be held on Thursday, October 22 at the BLM office at 4701 North Torrey Pines Drive in Conference Rooms A, B, and C. The first meeting will be held from 2 to 4 p.m. and the second will be held from 6 to 8 p.m.

Copies of the draft Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Business Plan and information on how to comment before the November 16th deadline can be found online at www.nv.blm.gov/vegas, and CD and/or hard copies are available at the BLM Southern Nevada District Office and Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Visitor Center.

If you have any questions regarding management of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, please contact Mark Tanaka-Sanders at the above address or by telephone at 702-515-5365.

Sincerely,

Mary Jo Rugwell
Southern Nevada District

The changes that are being proposed are rather radical. Following is an excerpt from a Las Vegas Sun article on the changes:

Red Rock Canyon officials are seeking comments on plans to raise fees at the national conservation area.

The fees for a day pass on the scenic drive would rise from $5 for a car to $7. Motorcycles would see an increase from $2 to $3. Bicyclists and hikers would be asked to pay $3, where they now are admitted for free.

An annual pass would cost $30, up from $20, and tour buses would be charged $5 per person, compared with the current $2.

In addition, the charge for individual campsites would rise from $10 to $15 and from $25 to $40 for group campsites. Group picnics at Red Spring, which are now free, would cost $40.

Comment are being accepted by e-mail (redrockbp@blm.gov), fax (702-515-5023) or mail (BLM Southern Nevada District Office, Attn: Mark Tanaka-Sanders, 4701 N. Torrey Pines, Las Vegas, NV 89130). Comments may also be delivered to the Red Rock Visitor Center or the Red Rock Campground. The deadline for comments is November 16th.

It is important for climbers to band together against these types of things. Ideally, there will be a lot of climbers on hand at the meetings, but most people who visit Red Rock regularly don't live locally. It is extremely important for those people to send comments as well.

--Jason D. Martin