Zuni: An Oldie but a Goodie

2009-12-14T16:10:00.000-08:00

Zuni in San Francisco has not had much love in a while. When it used to be among the only restaurants in town that stayed open past 11pm, it got some late night credit. But, with the advent of NOPA, more people seem to go there, as that place is always bustling. Zuni, I will stand by you. I think of NOPA as the epigone of Zuni, actually--similar, but not as good.

First, I love the decor and layout. It has formality (white tablecloths, napkins, walls), but zero stuffiness, and warm coziness is conveyed by an open kitchen, brick walls, hardwood floors, and dark wood furnishings. There is something old-school classy about the place, too, possibly the fully stocked bar, one that you know comes with a bartender who actually knows how to make a Manhatten. Upstairs is a wonderful labyrinth. It is as if you are being led around someone's home. I love how tables are nestled into alcoves. Once seated, you will get a bird's eye view of the kitchen, the bar, the tops of people's heads. Downstairs, they have these utterly charming window seats, where you can sidle up to your honey or watch envious passers-by.

The menu will probably not impress, as it is only one page long. As one who has come here multiple times, I will say that everything they do, they do well. They use seasonal organic ingredients, so their menu rotates all the time. All of their salads are tasty. No complaints about their pastas either, always cooked al dente. Their soups are divine. I still dream about a halibut one. For comfort food, they offer well-prepared polenta and out-of-this-world risotto.

The burger is just stellar. Juiciest hamburger I have had the pleasure of meeting, it lies on porous foccacia, which sops up the juices and keeps the meat lovingly moist. Pickled onions garnish and with a huge batch of shoestring fries, you have one killer lunch.

Now, for that signature roasted chicken, tell them right away if you want it, and if you call for reservations, let them know at this time. It truly takes one hour. But, boy, all of you who diss chicken (including me to some extent, since it is so often slightly dry and ho-hum), Zuni's chicken will make you question your values, or in the least, your hierarchy of meat. It is incredible. Paired with a delicious bread salad--fresh greens, raisins, pine nuts--the roast is succulent, perfectly seasoned, and tears apart like a loaf of fresh baked bread.

I have had a lot of their desserts and my favorites are the espresso granita (frozen dessert comprised of coffee crystals with first-rate whipped cream), a slice of gorgonzola drizzled with honey (paired with muscat, just heaven), and assorted pots de creme (chocolate, caramel).

As far as service, I love these people. They always treat me with class, respect, and reciprocate smiles. They always seat my party at the loveliest tables. When at the bar, they check on us and just make sure that we are doing okay. I do not care if it is not that cool to love Zuni anymore. You will always have a sweet spot in my stomach.

Zuni Cafe
1658 Market St
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 552-2522
http://www.zunicafe.com/

Taking a Breather at Mr. Frick's

2009-12-12T02:53:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite museums and definitely my favorite museum in NYC, I can return to the Frick over and over again and never tire of it. It is that special. It is not so much the art, but it is the grand mansion itself, the way the inspiring permanent collection is arranged just as Henry Clay Frick left it, the fantastic temporary exhibits that visit, the hop and skip from Central Park, and all of the beautiful views from the exquisite rooms, from which one can take one's time and fully experience all the beauty in an intimate, perfect-sized scale.

The library is amazing and boasts countless first editions. The Fragonard and Boucher rooms are nothing short of mesmerizing in their display of wealth and fine taste. The dining room allows my imagination to take flight. I see the coal/coke and steel magnate imperiously presiding over a table of guests when you know all he wants to do is kick everyone out and return to be alone with his paintings. Can you blame him? The interior garden with the fountain is a captivating gem of a room. Unbelievable that it is part of what was once someone's home. Finally, the inner courtyard is simply splendid, a marvelous place to take a breather, or if you are lucky, indulge in a live concert in the most tranquil of settings in the most urban of cities.

As for the artwork, it is Renaissance with Dutch, Flemish, and Spanish greats, including Rembrandt, Goya, and El Greco. There is also a sizable number of Gainsborough paintings. Most breathtaking is the most beautiful Ingres, "Comtesse d'Haussonville" and a gorgeous Il Bronzino, "Lodovico Capponi" that renders an almost palpable green velvet. And the Frick can flaunt three Vermeers. Yes, count 'em, three Vermeers! That is mighty impressive when there are only 35 Vermeers in the world. Once "America's most hated man" or not, Mr. Frick sure knew how to decorate.

*photo is from frick.org

The Frick Collection
1 East 70th St.
New York, NY 10021
(212) 288-0700
http://www.frick.org/

An American Seoul

Zuni: An Oldie but a Goodie

Taking a Breather at Mr. Frick's