An American Seoul

Top 20 Dinners of 2009

2010-01-01T19:09:00.000-08:00

From New York to Los Angeles to visiting my old haunts in San Francisco, this piggie ate a lot of good food in 2009. The end of the year invites all kinds of lists. Best Books, Best Movies, Worst Movies, Man/Woman of the Year, and so forth. Without further ado, here are my top 20 dinners of 2009.

Disclaimer: Stress on "dinners," which means that this is not a list of Best Restaurants of 2009. The list is not comprehensive and does not cover a wide spectrum of restaurants. As blog title and subtitle indicate, I eat a lot of French, new American, Japanese, and Korean food. Why are Korean dinners missing from this list? As much as I love Korean food, and I eat it several times a week since moving back down to L.A. in the autumn/winter of 2008, eating stellar soon tofu is not the same as having an amazing tasting at Providence. Just this piggie's opinion. Lastly, a lot of the restaurants represent L.A. and S.F. I had less work trips in NYC this past year, which created less opportunities to eat The Big Apple. :)

20) Angelini Osteria (L.A.) - Lovely dinner, but one serious pasta mistake: the bombolotti for the amatriciana sauce was undercooked. Even so, I was impressed. Great place for rustic Italian food.

19) XIV (L.A.) - A lot of thought went into the elaborate, somewhat chichi decor of Michael Mina's L.A restaurant. If you have visited the SLS Hotel and somebody told you The Bazaar and XIV are both the work of famed industrial and interior designer, Philippe Starck, you will probably nod your head, recognizing the common denominator. At the same time, I will say I prefer XIV because it is simply gorgeous. The inside is all about making a great first impression. Everything and everyone is swathed in firelight, manufacturing a mood of romance that should go in the play book of any guy out to wine and dine the girl of his dreams. Dinner was good with some juicy hits, but a serious flaw. While the dessert was a looker, it did not taste that good. The ice cream was half melted (and I am one of those people who like my ice cream as hard as granite) and the fudge was thick without tasting sinfully rich. I could not finish it, and I ALWAYS clean my dessert plate.

18) Stefan's at The LA Farm (L.A.) - Dinner was great and apparently, Stefan is a celebrity chef having been on Top Chef (which I do not watch; I don't watch any tv lately). The man has showmanship and is a character. I can see him eating up the screen. I ate up his food just fine that night. My scallops dish was the best main. I was not that impressed by the "Big Macs" but they were tasty just the same.

17) AOC (L.A.) - I always have a good time at AOC. I really like the lively and sophisticated vibe. I had a fabulous dinner here a couple nights before Christmas. I started with an unbelievable Sancerre at the bar, one that I would love a crate of. Company was stellar. Service was charming. I love pate. The goat cheese salad was wonderful, as was the lemon tart.

16) LudoBites 3.0 and Royal T Get "In Bed Together" (L.A.) - We ordered everything on the menu. I had food coma that lasted for roughly 1.5 days. The confit pork belly was my favorite savory dish and the Fourme d'Ambert tourte with red pear and honey-balsamic was my favorite dessert.

15) Lucques (L.A.) - Salad of the year for me goes to the heirloom tomatoes salad with burrata that I had at Lucques this past summer. It was recommended by the waiter who stated that the tomatoes taste sublime due to them being in season. Our waiter was terrifically on-point. I cannot stop thinking about how amazingly fresh and naturally sweet perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes taste. Wow.

14) Gary Danko (S.F.) - A delightful birthday dinner, the staff at Gary Danko gets the award for Best Overall Service. From the cellarist to the sommelier to every member of the wait staff, not a personality was missing and all forms of mannerisms and manners simply put us at festive ease. The chestnut mousse that accompanied the lobster salad was eye-opening. Chestnut mousse is incredible!

13) Cafe Jacqueline (S.F.) - After years of wanting to go, I finally made it and I loved it. Souffle for your main and dessert. We chose lobster for the savory and lime for the sweet. Oh my word, lime souffle is out of this world. Tart but not sour, it tastes like freshly shaved lime zest. It is beautiful in the mouth. Pretty to look at, too.

12) La Folie (S.F.) - Friends and I all had the 5-course tasting. Portions are humungous for a fancy-pants, Michelin-starred French restaurant. I am lucky to be back to my original size.

11) Aqua (S.F.) - Interview dinner that went well. Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to not steal bites of interviewer's rose-raspberry almond tart shell filled with rose cream, raspberries, lychee granite, and pistachio creme anglaise when she excused herself to visit the ladies' room. I REALLY wanted to because I polished my plate off rather quickly, followed by a search for bits of pastry shell and filling to pick up with my fork.

10) Restaurant Nishimura (L.A.) - Chef Nishimura knows fresh fish. I was very happy with the line-up he presented that day. Portions are practically microscopic, but they are bites of sashimi heaven.

9) The Modern (NYC) - A fantastic dinner in a quintessentially Manhatten sleek, urbane atmosphere. I had roasted Maine lobster with chanterelles. I love mushrooms, especially chanterelles, thus I was on cloud nine.

8) Jewel Bako (NYC) - The experience was really cool because the venue is one of the most unique I have experienced. Omakase was very nice as well, although it does not best Sushi Yasuda, in my opinion.

7) Zinnia (S.F.) - Really nice set-up, Zinnia is sophisticated but not stuffy at all. The octopus and scallops were excellent.

6) Asanebo (L.A.) - Third tier omakase was a real treat. The lobster sashimi had my eyes rolling.

5) Daniel (NYC) - French food at one of the best will definitely make it on my top five. Sauteed fois gras, sauteed fois gras, sauteed foie gras. It will change your life.

4) The Bar Room at the Modern (NYC) - I love the MOMA, so I especially love that The Bar Room is an excellent establishment with secret views of the captivating sculpture garden. Nothing but the best for our MOMA. We had superb tapas style plates with outstanding awards going to the foie gras torchon and tarte flambee. I cannot wait to go back!

3) LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar (L.A.) - Chorizo Cantaloupe Cornichon arrived at the table and I was surprised it was not some kind of sausage, but a soup. This was my soup of the year. Brilliant stuff. And the oxtail polenta was the warmest panda bear hug. It would make a grown lumberjack of a man cry for more.

2) Providence (L.A.) - Over the course of 4.5 hours, seventeen dishes were graciously delivered to our table, including a cheese cart. Service was impeccable and marvelously fun. So many mushrooms, including chanterelles. I almost broke out in song.

1) Quince (S.F) - Impressed, I never knew pasta could taste this good. It was seriously "wow." Ravioli so scrupulously stuffed with all kinds of concoctions that were savory with a hint of dessert-sweet. Not one less than stellar note, everything was divine and my taste buds cannot forget.

NOPA at Midnight

2009-12-31T15:48:00.000-08:00

For those of you unfamiliar with San Francisco, NOPA stands for North Of the Panhandle. Thus, they can claim some geographic legitimacy to the neighborhood acronym, although it sounds a wee bit try-hard if you ask me (think Soho, Noho, TriBeca... not). :P

I remember the advent of NOPA. Suddenly, Zuni was easier to get into. Why is this significant? They are two of the few places in the city where you can get a nice square meal at after hours. I will come out and say it. I am on Team Zuni. I think of NOPA as similar, but not as good. That said, variety is the spice of life.

NOPA is an oasis in the San Francisco fog, a beacon of good food for the night owls. I am never surprised when I enter the doors at a quarter to midnight and find it to be a packed house thriving with activity. After all, S.F. is a major city with much to do at night. People get hungry after 10pm. It is baffling and irksome that restaurants close so early (for major city standards). I have had this conversation with friends a million times, both sober and definitely not.

Enter NOPA. It is the answer for late night diners who groan at the idea of Osha or Chinese food (yet again). The food here is pretty good, but nothing that will change your life. (But, they get extra credit for being open until 1am.) The emphasis is on organic, local ingredients, thus they change/mix up the menu frequently. For instance, every time I order the flatbread (essentially, pizza), it comes with a different combination of toppings (some better than others). Two stellar combos comprises of 1) spicy fennel sausage, broccoli, and pomegranate seeds and 2) smoked bacon, gruyere, garlic, and arugula.

Regulars on the menu are the rotisserie chicken and the Moroccan tagine. They are also one of the few eateries that offer grass-fed burgers. Paired with gruyere cheese and a dollop of harissa aioli, it is not a bad way to end the night, although it does not compare to Zuni's burger to my taste buds. The pork chop is probably their best main. Cooked to juicy perfection, it slides off the bone with slippery ease. Always.

I love the desserts, which include pecan tart with "smoke & whisky" ice cream, warm bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream, and ginger cake with Nocino cream (cream made from an Italian liquor with an aromatic, bittersweet taste, bellissima!).

The cocktails are a lot of fun and, like the rest of the menu, change with the seasons and availability of ingredients. Their list of spirits can send people over the edge. From high quality rum to bourbon and rye to single malt whisky, NOPA has it. The wine list is sure to please, as it ranges from classic West Coast reliables from Napa, Bonny Doon, and Willamette to Chianti Classicos and French cab franc.

As for the interior, it matches the cuisine to the "t": refined yet rustic, open with high ceilings yet warm and inviting with its neighborhood-themed murals and solid oak tables and benches. If it is too busy--and it often is even at midnight--sit at the bar where you can watch the cooks hustle in an open kitchen that adds fire (literally, to some extent, since you can watch them insert flatbread and meats into the wood-fired ovens) and life to an otherwise casual but sophisticated meal.

NOPA
560 Divisadero St.
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 864-8643
http://www.nopasf.com/

Angelini Osteria: A Neighborhood Gem

2009-12-29T19:36:00.000-08:00

It has taken me too long to visit this neighborhood gem. Angelini Osteria is located on Beverly Blvd., a street that I have traversed with great frequency (the Beverly Center was my designated shopping mall when I was a tween and teen). It is a street that I know very well. Ten years ago, Beverly Blvd. was a bit of a wasteland, but now wonderful restaurants line the streets interspersed by small label designer boutiques and avant-garde furniture shops.

The restaurant is compact and bustling. There is an outdoor patio that would be a lovely place to have dinner in the summer or for sunny SoCal winters. From my window seat, I have a view of Milk, diagonally across the street. Angelini Osteria is a place about eating good food, enjoying a nice red, and sharing bites and conversation with your neighbors (whose table will possibly be, literally, less than one foot away, so unneighborly people, be warned!)

The complimentary bread basket is filled with anything but filler. The thin crispy flat bread is amazingly tasty. With every bubbly crunch, you get nips of salt and hints of toasted butter. I am pretty sure I love it more than my friend. I cannot resist chomping on it until they are all gone. A quick glance at our neighbors' bread basket makes me realize that you start with a generous pile of crisps to begin with. eep! No matter, it does not ruin this trooper's appetite. :P

Ever since having the salad of the year for me--Lucques' heirloom tomato salad with burrata--when I see this veggie/cheese combination, I hear "ding ding ding!" Angelini Osteria's caprese with heirloom tomatoes and burrata does not disappoint, but it does not best Lucques' by any stretch of the imagination. Salads come and go, but Lucques' made an indelible impression. But, I digress.

The heirloom tomatoes are not as ripe as they could and should be. Because when heirloom tomatoes are perfectly ripe, they achieve the perfection of preternatural fresh sweetness, a taste that you cannot get sick of, the flavor of your ideal breath mints, chewing gum, cough syrup. You want to replicate it until you emit it from your own breath. This all said, Angelini Osteria's is very nice and the burrata has a lovely coolness and cuts easily with a butter knife.

caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes and burrata

My friend relays to me that the lasagna verde is a favorite. She is right on the money. With a wonderful homemade taste, it has a fabulous meat to tomato sauce ratio, creating a perfect square that cuts with moist ease. Veneered by a layer of nicely browned, crispy-chewy cheese and showered with spinach leaf crisps, it is remarkably filling.

lasagna verde "Omaggio Nonna Elvira"

For pasta number two, we select bombolotti alla amatriciana for some flavor contrast. It is a ribbed tubular pasta coated with a deep-flavored tomato sauce prepared with guanciale (unsmoked dried pork cheek) and hot peppers for a dash of spice. The sauce is a savory win, but the pasta, unfortunately, is unevenly cooked (some of the tubes are frankly hard, too much resistence "to the tooth"; al dente literally means "to the tooth").

bombolotti alla amatriciana

At this point, I am feeling the takeover of carbs in my ballooning belly. I sip my wine and sink into my chair, dreaming about dessert. However, instead of the desserts menu, what should appear before me, but a beautiful arranged plate of the secondi.

branzino roasted in sea salt with vegetables and mashed potato (split into two plates)

I completely forgot about the branzino! The waiter breaks the salt crust and filets it onto your plate, but I either missed it (due to becoming a bleary-eyed beluga) or we missed out. I will explicitly ask for this tableside performance next time because I love tableside shows. *clap clap clap*

The fish is clearly cooked to moist perfection, breaking apart with the ease of your nondominant hand. Flavorful flakes take turns joining green beans, broccoli crowns, and cauliflower on my fork, all seasoned with palatable expertise.

My friend is game for the panna cotta. Whenever I see it on the menu at a reputable place, I like to give it a go, wanting to compare it to my benchmark. Angelini Osteria's is a vanilla bean panna cotta served with blackberries and strawberries. Vanilla bean is always such a delight and Angelini Osteria's is ultra welcoming with its beauteous flecks of black. Although it does not best Delfina's in S.F., my benchmark, and is more watery than what I am used to, the vanilla bean flavor comes through and, all in all, works as a great palate cleanser.

vanilla bean panna cotta with blackberries and strawberries

The one misstep of dinner is the undercooked bombolotti. But, the authentic vibe and aromas of the restaurant hit me on the head as soon as I walked in, followed by a rather awkward hovering at the small entranceway while they set up our table.

In short, Angelini Osteria is a warm, lovingly traditional, and intimate restaurant that can get loud and with not much leg room to spare. If that is not your speed, maybe try Gino Angelini's other restaurant on W. 3rd St. I went to the now closed La Terza, also owned by Angelini, and I was not impressed; I MUCH prefer Angelini Osteria. Personally, I think the cozy set-up suits the rustic Italian menu and I love a nice neighborhood restaurant that can get neighborly. The fact that this exists in L.A., far from being a city of neighborhoods let alone being neighborly has me a little flummoxed. :) A winning experience for me, I will be back for the spaghetti alla carbonara and crostata di Marmellata.

Angelini Osteria

7313 Beverly Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90036

(323) 297-0070

www.angeliniosteria.com

Delfina: You Always Remember Your First

2009-12-27T17:42:00.000-08:00

Delfina was my first San Francisco restaurant, and although it is no longer the consistent delight of yesteryear, I can still count on it for a lovely northern Italian meal.

First and foremost, no restaurant has even come close to the perfection of their buttermilk panna cotta. It strides the perfect line between sweet and tangy. Accompanied with seasonal fruits (I have had it with kumquats, pomegranate, strawberries, fresh berries), it is a deceptively simple dessert that is difficult to get just right.

One of my favorite desserts of all time, Delfina's buttermilk panna cotta. Here served with seasonal kumquats.

Their profiteroles are great as well, but I have had just as great at many other places (Chapeau! and Capannina come to mind). But, their panna cotta... I get lost in reverie when I think of the panna cotta.

My favorite dishes at Delfina are the very simple ones. The spaghetti with nothing but plum tomatoes, pepperoncini, garlic, and extra virgin oil is simply perfect. Clearly an elementary dish and something that I can make at home, so not an item I will normally order, but it is just soooooo good and satisfying. The house-made pasta is cooked perfectly al dente and all you taste is the freshness of the ingredients.

spaghetti with plum tomatoes

The balsamic vinegrette drizzled salad of bitter greens, pancetta, and walnuts is mystifyingly flavorful and aromatic, like being showered with fresh herbs from Provence. The iceberg lettuce with gorgonzola is crisp and crunchy accompanied by a perfect punch of pungency. One of the best I have ever had, the house-pulled mozzarella is so soft, creamy cool with just enough elasticity. It is simply amazing. With a growing reputation, their grilled calamari sits on a bed of warm baked beans and is absolutely to die for.

grilled calamari served over baked beans

Seasoned just right, the delicate-sized roasted chicken with Yukon potatoes provides tenderloving bites. Their sweet breads are wonderful as well. Nothing tastes as fresh-off-the-hook as the albacore with cranberry beans and salsa verde when it is in season.

For those of you who like tripe, their tripe alla Fiorentina is supposed to be excellent. As my foodie friend says, she loves that she can have tripe at a nice restaurant.

The wine list is small and selective. Service is friendly, prompt, and always helpful. They are always busy and the tables seem to get closer together every year, so definitely make reservations. You can eat at the bar, but even then, expect to wait at least thirty minutes for weekend dinner. Weeknights are relatively busy, too.

I have lost count as to how many times I have been here. Apart from Korean and Japanese food (which I grew up eating), Delfina is the restaurant that I cut my taste buds at. It will always remain one of my personal favorites. Once I jaunted over here after dinner at The Blue Plate because ending dinner with their perfect buttermilk panna cotta sounded ideal. 'Twas. A neighborhood restaurant within walking distance of Dolores Park, Delfina is part of the holy trinity of piggie heaven (Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery, Delfina). Call me a little sentimental, but I always have gastrointestinal room for my first.

Delfina
3621 18th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 552-4055
http://www.delfinasf.com/

Providence Fulfills Its Promise

2009-12-27T10:56:00.000-08:00

Dinner was epic. No exaggeration, it lasted 4.5 hours. It began at 6 PM and I got home at 11 PM. Afterwards, he fell back in his chair and sighed, "Ji chyuh suh (exhausted, no more!)" I just beamed, smiling from ear to ear.

He asked me where I wanted to go and I timidly relayed that number one on my wish list was Providence. He told me that it sounded good. I replied that it was too expensive; I told him to take his mom. He bellowed, "My mom would hate it!" She is Korean, as is mine. My mom would love it, but I can understand what he meant because my dad would hate the formality, the much-ado-about-food, the complexity of simply eating for sustenance. He declared, "We'll go to Providence." It was a first date. :)))

This is how I got treated to the chef's tasting menu, which required me to use all ten fingers and seven toes to keep track of everything that came out of the kitchen with amazing aplomb and delightful yet unobtrusive attention. Service was 10 stars. They know how to treat you like a lady and make one blush something marvelous.

Providence serves some of the best bread I have ever had at a fancy establishment. Warm brioche with baked-in bacon bits. It is amazing with the house-churned butter.

1) Amuse bouche trio - The signature now famous mojito gelee that bursts into your mouth with true mojito flavor, gin and tonic cube that you drizzle with lime juice to get it to fizz like a science experiment, and a mini beer mug of lovely carrot soup. Awesome, tasty start that made me excited for more culinary fun of the first order.

2) Kanpachi - Accompanied by crispy rice crackers, sitting artfully in a pool of whipped smooth soy creme fraiche, the julienned kanpachi was top-notch with perfect firm texture. Delicious.

3) Scallop with black truffle and shimeji mushrooms - Great mushrooms and the best scallop I have ever had in my young epicurean lifetime, it was of pristine quality and here is the kicker: they actually cooked it right. It was not overcooked, which is so often the case, a good sign for sure that the kitchen was in talented, expert hands.

4) Fois gras ravioli - Oh. My. Word. I love fois gras, black truffle, and cheese, so this unison had my eyes rolling, the legacy of which is my now incredibly attractive lazy eye. :P

5) Halibut with balsamic - With a wonderfully moist texture, again, just perfectly cooked.

6) Turbot - Paired with burdock roots and aromatic shiso, this dish betrayed a distinct Asian influence and had a beautiful balance to it.

7) Salmon with matsutake mushrooms and sake foam - The stop-in-your-tracks brilliant mushrooms outshined the flavorful salmon and crispy skin. The hints of sake in the sauce were a nice touch.

8) Lobster with shiitake mushrooms - I loved how Chef Cimarusti turned to mushrooms (and truffle) all night to accessorize. Succulent and juicy lobster with super tender mushrooms. Definitely memorable.

9) Tenderloin of veal with chanterelles - Accompanied by a celery root puree, the veal was amazingly cooked sous vide. It truly disintegrated in my mouth and the gorgeous chanterelles performed an aria in their wake. Outstanding, I was on my feet chanting, "Encore!"

10) The cheese cart - Our cheese expert could not have been sweeter and he supplied us with pungent slices of heaven. Very nice selection of blues, gorgonzola dolce, goat, brie, raclette, and gruyere paired with jams, candied hazelnuts and walnuts, and dried fruits, including fig which I love, this was a lovely intercession separating the entrees from the desserts.

delivered from cheese cart

12) Kalamansi gelee with litchi-shiso sorbet - Marvelously inventive and uber delectable, lychee jelly underpinned shiso-flavored sorbet, both of which sat in a moat of white chocolate coconut soy milk with tapioca pearls. The different textures (cool sorbet, bouncy jelly, chocolate soup, chewy tapioca) and different flavors collided deliciously in my mouth.

13) Basil ice cream with marshmallows and candied pecans - Reminiscent of basil, this was paired with fresh strawberries and a playful mix of house-made marshmallows and candied pecans. My taste buds were giddy.

14) Milk chocolate panna cotta with Kahlua sauce - I had something similar to this at La Mill Coffee House, where the menu is, in fact, designed by Cimarusti and Adrian Vasquez (pastry chef at Providence), too. For whatever reason, it tasted better here. Panna cotta accompanied by coconut strands and glazed, toasted almond slices and everything was impeccably embellished by a divine Kahlua syrup.

An exceptional dinner experience, I was impressed. However, I would redecorate. While the outside takes the classic road with neat lines of lights, weird tortellini-looking attachments are suction-cupped all over the inside walls.

Tell me that does not look like tortellini.

Great airy space, otherwise. First-class service, first-class experience, Providence is one of only four restaurants in Los Angeles with two Michelin stars (the others are Melisse, Spago, and Urasawa). I cannot wait to come back! Incidentally, at the moment, my sweet tooth is having a staring contest with the 8-course dessert tasting. O_O

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
http://www.providencela.com/

Cafe Jacqueline: Simply Souffle

2009-12-21T18:11:00.000-08:00

Before I return to my creator, I am going to get a souffle superlatively right even if it kills me. My dinner at Cafe Jacqueline has steeled my resolve. Wonderful savory and sweet souffles are worth the meticulous trouble in the kitchen. Or in Jacqueline's case, kitchenette. The kitchen where this quintessential French lady whips up souffle after souffle all by herself is tiny.

Perched in one of the most touristy neighborhoods in San Francisco, North Beach, Cafe Jacqueline is far from a cliche. It is a very personal restaurant--absolutely quaint, charming, and unassumingly romantic. I adore it and it is my latest favorite nook in the city.

The first thing you will notice is that the candlelit room is very warm from continuous baking. Then, that smell... The smell of sublime gruyere fragrances the room, as if to announce that without it the savory souffles cannot exist. I believe gruyere graces everything that it touches, so I am beside myself with glee.

After about one hour (they are made right after ordering so expect to spend at least two to three hours here, depending on whether you opt for dessert), our savory lobster souffle arrives. Neither dry nor runny, baked to a beautiful golden brown, the waiter divides it into portions. It is more akin to a delicious garlicky pastry flavored subtly with lobster rather than an obvious lobster entree. No complaints, just an observation. Chunks of lobster are more than evident and the whole thing is just a buttery, smooth delight. One order is A LOT of food and we struggle to finish it. It is not like we can take home leftovers and zap it in the microwave for a quick breakfast or midnight snack. Well, I guess we can, but I have yet to learn the mechanics of resuscitating deflated souffle.

lobster souffle

For dessert, one of the best things I have tasted all year, lime souffle. Oh. My. Word. This is AMAZING. Think of freshly shaved lime zest. It tastes exactly the way slivers of fresh lime zest smells--that wonderfully tart but not sour, subtly candy sweet, sparklingly citrussy scent. Plus, it is gorgeous--a powdered sugar winter wonderland flecked with dots of emerald green.

Easily one of the best desserts I have ever consumed, lime souffle.

Sinking your spoon into this air-whipped masterpiece is one of the most indulgent activites. As your spoon resurfaces, you will find this piping hot bite of what looks like a cross between green apple pie and shattered meringue. But, make no mistake, it will taste like unadulterated lime. It is glorious. I am so glad they ran out of strawberry (I love strawberries so I had my eye on that one), so that we could try this unexpected superstar.

The aftermath. Not as pretty.

A friend of mine recommended Cafe Jacqueline to me years and years ago. It has taken me way too long to visit. On the bright side, having lime souffle is an eye-opening wonder.

I quite like that I now have a place that I can turn to when I want an expertly prepared souffle. Sub-par souffle is either like having dry, stale quiche or runny pudding. Both suck donkey balls. In addition, seeing that I am used to Korean restaurant specialization (a designated place for soondubu, sul lung tung, kalguksu), I really appreciate that Jacqueline specializes and devotes her skills to the creation of the perfect souffle.

A lot of people will probably nitpick (you cannot please everyone, ever) and say they have had better souffes (in Paris, for example; yo, it's Paris!), yada yada yada, well, I think she does a marvelous job. Prepare for a European-paced (the very opposite of getting your soon tofu in ten minutes and being out of the joint in thirty), uber leisurely meal. Jacqueline makes every single souffle herself from scratch so this place is a time commitment. For those on a clock, with people to see and things to do, do not come here. You will have a stress-related hernia.

Granted, one can get souffled-out, so for those of you who want to consume more than, well, inflated air, it might be a good idea to just come here for dessert. For those of you who are used to something more substantial, like Korean barbeque, souffle is not for you. :P I personally love them all--both the savory and sweet--and cannot wait to make my way down all the options. Chanterelle, crab, Grand Marnier, chocolate, and, of course, strawberry! With my work cut out for me, this is going to be one of the most delicious missions yet. :)

Cafe Jacqueline

1454 Grant Ave.

San Francisco, CA 94133

(415) 981-5565

The Blue Plate: Good American Comfort Food

2009-12-21T11:53:00.000-08:00

During my last extended stay in San Francisco, I made an explicit point of going to Blue Plate for their gourmet macaroni with drunken Spanish goat cheese. No exaggeration, I actually dreamt that I was eating it after some disappointing mac and cheese at a string of restaurants in Los Angeles. The best being at Bar Food in Santa Monica, average at The Must in Downtown, and the worst at Lemonade in Beverly Hills. On the bright side, their combined mediocrity summoned Blue Plate's mac and cheese to my drooling dreams. Either that, or I went to bed starving.

Hence, I journeyed to the end of the world (Bernal Heights) from Russian Hill. I was raised in L.A. I can count how many times I have been on a bus on my left hand (am including Peter Pan from D.C. to NYC). Bernal Heights is FAR. True, Blue Plate fits in nicely with the street-casual, down-to-earth neighborhood, but I really went out of my way to come here. Plus, did I mention that we had 10 PM reservations at Quince? :D :D :D I rang my friend around 5 PM and told him that I had a brilliant idea. Since our Quince ressies are late, why don't we go to Blue Plate for only the mac and cheese to tide us over? He was game.

We sat at the bar. This was a TERRIBLE idea. Blue Plate has an open kitchen and we ended up watching the owner do last minute checks on all of the plates before they went to the designated tables. Dishes like gnocchi with red wine braised short ribs, sardine bruschetta with olive tapenade, and this killer appetizer of grilled squid. We could barely sit still. Everything looked lick-your-plate delicious. My friend and I took turns reminding each other that we had 10 PM Quince ressies and even we, two piggies, could not wobble into Quince full. We are piggies after all, not cows, thus do not actually have back-up stomachs. That is a figure of speech.

As we exerted will power at full force, our dish arrived. It looked like a beaut. As far as taste, I will admit that it tasted better in my dreams. I am afraid it does not beat mine. Far from rocket science, I can make a pretty good one (the secret is truffle). Until I find a restaurant that makes it better, Blue Plate's will just have to do.

macaroni with drunken Spanish goat cheese

The macaroni was a bit overcooked. Another problem might have been that I did not have the mac and cheese with the meatloaf. Something about these two classic comfort foods together brings out the best of each.

Speaking of the meatloaf, this last visit was the only time I did not order it. It is a Blue Plate special and it single-handedly made a meatloaf convert out of me. The only time I had it before was in the school cafetaria in elementary school. Memory is muy no bueno. But, Blue Plate's is tasty. On top of that, it is a generous serving for so dense a meal. I can never finish it and I usually clean my plate. It comes with mashed potatoes and a side of the veggies du jour. A responsible restaurant that takes pride in using organic, seasonal ingredients, the menu regularly rotates, but they always have the meatloaf.

Meats are all cooked in a traditional, homey, slow-cooked style. The pork chop is nice. The pastas are solid, though not always cooked al dente. On the other hand, the gnocchi are heavenly pillows.

For dessert, I usually go somewhere else. Keeping up with the cuisine type, it is updated traditional American with the inevitable injection of nouveau Californian. A lot of pies and cobbler type of sweets. I have more of a European desserts fetish or full-fat (none of that nonfat crap) ice cream, gelato, or Pinkberry will do.

The wine list is legit. Lots of range for half bottles--from Willamette pinot to Grand Cru Bordeaux to Chateaneuf-du-Pape to sassy, herbaceous sauvignon blancs. A global choice for bottles, but not too many choices by the glass.

The environment is very low-key and casual with forgiving, dim lighting. It is a nice place to have dinner and catch up with friends or works as a last minute, casual choice for you and your honey.

A lot of people complain about the service, but I have always been pleased. On my last visit with the mac and cheese only stop, our server could not have been sweeter. We explained that we had 10pm Quince reservations and did not want to ruin our appetites so we intended to just share one dish and have some wine. She was not only understanding, she revved up our enthusiasm by exclaiming that the pasta at Quince is amazing and her favorite. How cool is that! Honest praise for another restaurant.

It really is a pill to trek over to Bernal Heights, but Russian Hill does NOT need another good restaurant. Parking would be a hair-pulling nightmare! When in nearby Mission, I will pencil Blue Plate in.

The Blue Plate
3218 Mission St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 282-6777
http://www.blueplatesf.com/

Not Bad, But I Don't Get the Excitement

2009-12-19T09:57:00.000-08:00

We have all been there. There is a place that is a virtual crowd favorite. We finally get to go, and instead of it being like watching Casablanca for the first time, we just stare at our plate, bowl, utensil, waiting for the magic. No magic. On account of friends who love the place, we visit again. Again, instead of it being like watching Citizen Kane for the second time (do it, it will dawn on you as even more brilliant), we grumble about the wait, the claustrophobia, the much-ado-about-not-much. Let me be clear: Nothing is bad. Bad is this. Everything is okay, certainly edible, but you sit there, alone in your lack of excitement as you clean up your plate, thinking about all of the hungry children in Africa. Eating out of obligation is simply no fun. As lucky citizens of a wealthy nation, we have all been there.

Mr. Pizza Factory
Call me narrow-minded, but Koreans should not be making pizza. That is like Italians making kimchi jjigae. It sounds easy enough, since both items comprise of fairly simple ingredients, but if you are sensitive to what a killer pizza and a great kimchi jjigae can taste like, you would make this kind of transcultural activity criminal. As you can tell, I am not a fan of Mr. Pizza. I do not care for it when I am at the original location in Seoul near Ehwa University, and I certainly do not care for it when I am in the States with its shameless 50% markup.

First, there are the unique toppings: corn (this is fine, but Cheeseboard in Berkeley does it scores better), crumbled tortilla chips (definitely a new one), potato and bacon (odd), sour cream (bring on the chives for this baked-potato-on-top-of-dough hodgepodge), mayonnaise (...), and bulgogi (poor quality bulgogi does not give this one a fighting chance).

Second, Koreans have this thing with sweetening all breads. You would think that with all the fermentation required with kimchi that they would have a predilection for sourdough instead. Alas, the all-important pizza crust is Koreanized, too. Now, I have a notorious sweet tooth, but I also cherish pizza. And sometimes you want your loves separated because you know they would compete for your attention if presented to you simultaneously. This is such a case. The pastry scone crust, which comes with a candy-like strawberry dipping sauce makes me think I have entered a pizza twilight zone. It is just wrong. The pureed sweet potato in the crust is neither bad nor good, just a surprise.

I have not even gotten to the kimchi pastas. I am not a daring food superhero. I will not go there. When I come here (friends and family like this place, my grandmother LOVES it), I order the one with traditional toppings (olives, mushrooms, etc.). Like nearly everything that is hot, it tastes good. But, eat it fast because when it cools, the cheese crusts up and you can tell that it is not regular mozzarella. It is a tad sweeter and less gooey. Overall, it is edible like Papa Johns, but I would prefer to go to California Pizza Kitchen in a New York thin-crust minute.

Mr. Pizza Factory
3881 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
(213) 738-0077
http://www.mrpizza.co.kr/

Ronin Izakaya Bistro
The food at Ronin is essentially Western dishes with a few Eastern touches for window-dressing. Nothing tastes really Asian to me and, generally speaking, this conundrum is why I am not a big proponent of fusion. It ends up being neither/nor. In Ronin's case, we have okay, sometimes delicious, Westernized tapas. My main gripe is that there is no creativity with the juxtapositions, nor does it work in an ideal way where the arrangement of culturally divergent foods and seasonings allow the end result to be this highly palatable discovery. Granted, my rubric is not easy since I regard Nobu as the standard, but I never got graded on a curve in college, and think it is a crappy academic device that should be done away with.

One of the best items is the scrumptious taco shimi--a trio of seared tuna, chips, and avocado. Likewise, the lamb is well-seasoned and juicy. The garlic edamame that they bring out gratis is addictive.

On the other hand, the steak skewers are a bit overcooked and the pork is just tasteless. The agedashi tofu is unremarkable, as is the seafood carpaccio (not that fresh). As for the popular and praised cod with purple yam, I have had better cod, and the yam is tasty, but the pairing does nothing for my taste buds. The fried rice is fab, but is fairly child's play. I can place a sunny-side-up egg on my own fried rice. When it comes to the cake, presentation is cute, but it tastes oddly dense without being rich and the accompanying shots of vanilla milkshake are very watered-down. The yuzu custard is far from creamy, very flan-like (which I like, but they should rename it then), and the granita is lemon-flavored. Where is the yuzu?

They have sake, beer, and a nice malbec. Service is outstanding. I have nothing but praise for their professionalism and warmth. Decor is clean and minimalist.

Akira Kurosawa's Seven Samurai is thematically projected onto one side of the bistro. The film features ronin, masterless samurai who run the gamut of elder statesman to inspired youth, but only by coming together can they defend a community from outside bandits. I guess the ambition is to bring together a range of cultures to usher in a wonderfully distinct cuisine. Clearly, a lot of thought went into the place, which is admirable, but in the end, it is about how the food tastes.

Ronin Izakaya Bistro
359 N. La Cienaga Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 289-8404

The Lobster
The Lobster is seated on prime real estate. Almost every table is privy to a stunning view of the ocean, and if the time is right, one romantic sunset. If you want to propose to someone, do it here, but if your honey likes really good food, perhaps scoop her up and take her somewhere else for the eating part. :P Unfortunately, the quality of the seafood is just okay and does not even come close to matching the superb location. It is average at best, and over the years, I have tried nearly everything. Very strange to me, since the place not only has the brazenness to refer to itself as "The Lobster," but it is literally right by the shore.

The shrimp cocktail is unmemorable, as is the lobster cocktail. The portions are skimpy, too, even for cocktails. The crab cakes are solid. The sea bass is a snore--poorly seasoned, kind of dry, and a chore to finish.

Let's get down to brass tacks. How is their lobster? It is not their strong suit. It always comes out chewy and overbuttered. Overall, not good flavor. They really should subtract the word "Maine" from the menu because I have had lobster from Maine and this is NOT Maine lobster.

On a brighter note, they have quality Napa chardonnays that give it their all to make the chewy lobster slide down better.

The tables are so close together. It lends a feeling of cramped discomfort. The parking lot is bizarre. It is valet and the cars all disappear into who-knows-where. It takes a while to retrieve said car. A trendy place with great staying power, The Lobster is, in my view, overpriced for average seafood, especially, irony of all ironies, lobster.

The Lobster
1602 Ocean Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 458-9294
http://www.thelobster.com/

Come Back To Me, Mama!

2009-12-18T21:55:00.000-08:00

Boy, do I miss Mama's. It used to be called "Mama's on Washington Square," but I guess the owner changed it since people have always referred to it as "Mama's" (why state the obvious, right?). It was bloody long, which is what you will hear about the lines. They can go out the door, out of control. But, it is oh-so-worth it. The breakfast and brunch are outstanding. The portions are generous and the ingredients simply sing quality.

The eggs Benedict arrives like it is ready for a photo shoot for Bon Appetit. The hollandaise sauce is buttery smooth and creamy with a perfect swirl of tang. You can have it with Dungeness crab (rapturously good), prosciutto, smoked salmon, or shrimp.

The French toast is sinfully delicious, and among the best I have had. To have a bit of everything, try the French toast sampler. They offer Swedish cinnamon, chocolate cinnamon, cranberry orange walnut, and banana nut.

French toast sampler

The kugelhuph is a Mama's specialty, thus a must-try. It is made of homemade brioche, chockful of plump golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, and almond slivers. They recommend you have it with their house-made preserves instead of maple syrup and they are spot-on. It brings out the fresh, autumnal flavors.

The menu is fraught with mouthwatering choices. You will stand there for a short eternity to go through the dizzyingly long list of omelettes. You can have buttermilk or dollar-size pancakes. Then there is the pain dore, which consists of apples sauteed in lemon butter sauce over slices of sourdough baguette. It is not as sweet as it sounds.

pain dore

They also have scrumptious baked goods and pastries, like carrot cake, bagels, and all kinds of turnovers.

One of the standouts and a perennial favorite is the Monte Cristo. It is a sandwich done the French way. Great cuts of ham and gooey cheese grilled on slices of French toast dusted with powdered sugar. Served with fresh cranberry sauce, though it sounds a bit unusual, it is decadent, delicious, and its consumption will provide instant food coma.

Monte Cristo sandwich

It is best for a lazy Sunday lunch. If you are feeling ambitious, work off that sleepy-eyed satiety by trekking towards Coit Tower.

What is weekend brunch without a bloody Mary, screwdriver, or mimosa? Like everything else at Mama's, do not hold back. Try them all. The service is lovely and attentive. The owner walks around personally, checking to see if you need anything and replenishing coffee mugs. He is on Santa's "good list." He could earn a ticket to heaven if he refilled those cocktail glasses as well.

Mama's
1701 Stockton St.
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 362-6421
http://www.mamas-sf.com/

Absinthe and Art Deco Chic

2009-12-18T13:53:00.000-08:00

Within walking distance from an evening of opera or classical music (only about three to four blocks), Absinthe is a snazzy place to have cocktails and dessert. The bar room is where I sit. The decor is art deco chic, vintage classy, and sexy. I love how the hushed lighting, geometric patterns, and deep yet vibrant colors work together to create an ambience of muted romance. It is a gorgeous room and when you have to powder your nose, you will be equally charmed by the ladies' room.

The drinks are simply superb. It does not surprise me that they won Wine Spectator's 2009 Best of Award of Excellence. To begin, the bartenders are just a dream to work with--knowledgable, solicitous in the best way, and immaculately mannered. I never fail to tip them generously. The choices could rule the world--you have everything from the perkiest Champagne cocktails (they make a mean pear martini), velvety Ports and Madeira, age-old brandies, and an encyclopedic wine list.

The list of cheeses will make your mind reel and your palate as greedy as Enron, or to keep it current, Tiger Woods. :P They have everything from creamy chevre to intense blue to Swiss rarities. As a cheese lover, I can probably try the entire selection in lieu of a real supper (which they do offer). Wait, in France, I believe a simple meal can comprise of cheese and fruit... As I have always thought, nothing beats French avant-garde ideas (Enlightenment, French Revolution) and America should not snub their nose at them.

The desserts are marvelous. Some, like the Scharffen Berger chocolate pot de creme, are tailor-made for my perennial sweet tooth. The lavender creme brulee is intriguing with its waft of linen-clean lavender married to silky, sweet cream. Or, try the chocolate-banana tart which comes with warm caramel sauce. During my last visit, which was one month ago, I shared the olive oil ice cream garnished by cookie crumb crisp. Having no idea what to expect, it ended up being this very clean-tasting ice cream with a barely discernible nip of olive oil that lingered on the tongue. Its frosty texture was lighter than regular ice cream. Quite pleasant, actually.

Now, they are supposed to have a nice brunch, but I have never tried. Dinner, in my opinion, is good, but not great. Steak tartare is decent, but not the best I have had, although I will give them credit for putting a different twist on it by using a poached egg instead of raw, habanero instead of capers. The scallops and duck confit are tasty. Pork confit is okay (duck is much better) and the chicken is not only a snoring skip, the cranberry sauce tastes odd. With its seared exterior and heavy-set buns, the hamburger is not perfect, but it is nicely grilled with a mouthpuckering aioli.

No question, the winner is the French onion soup. One of the best I have had, it strides that delectable, yet oh-so-difficult (I have battled and surrendered to many French onion foes) balance of gooey cheesy and crisply baked. The cheese they use is unbelievable, melting in one's mouth like falling snowflakes.

With that, I will continue to view Absinthe as mainly a place for cheese, dessert, drinks... and that French onion. Moreover, I will only come here at off-peak hours from now on. My last visit was on a Saturday night after dinner for dessert and wine. Oh my goodness, it was a zoo! To my dismay, we had to sit outside (with the heat lamps, thank goodness), which was nice, but I missed the tres chic bar room.

The service is professional. I have come here dressed to the nines and more casual and, like most San Francisco establishments, they treat me with class and courtesy either way. The bar room will lure me back, as I like to be aesthetically pleased while I eat my cake. :)

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes St.
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 551-1590
http://www.absinthe.com/

Kagaya: Shabu Shabu for Royalty

2009-12-18T10:39:00.000-08:00

I am not the biggest meat eater (says she who had Korean barbeque just last night). Well, for Korean standards (says she who has eaten twice at a place called Animal). Okay, rewind. I will begin by stating that I flat-out LOVE shabu shabu. I love eating it in Japan, in San Fran, in L.A., love eating it at home with Mitsuwa premium cuts, love eating it with some slummin' Ranch 99 beef, and, oh, how I love eating it at Kagaya for the full royal treatment.

First of all, you cannot go wrong with any of the choices. Chef Masa's cutthroat high standards make sure of that. The regular beef is already lovingly tender. If you want a better cut--and it is definitely better--pay $60 more for Miyazaki wagyu. If you are a baller with peacock feathers, order the premium Miyazaki wagyu. :P The thing about the wagyu is that it is a decadent, melt-in-your-mouth cut, thus very, very filling in this sneaking-up-on-you, incremental way. I have tasted the premium wagyu and, honestly, I cannot tell the difference between the two wagyu cuts.

Generally, I am weirdly a beef only kind of shabu shabu gal (Chinese style hot pot freaks me out), but the seafood quality thanks to Masa-san who has some special connection with the downtown fish market (which, in turn, has a direct artery to Japan) has the "trust" stamp all over it (the ~$100 option). You have to see some of this crustacean. The king crab legs are humungous and the softest, sweetest meat slips out.

Shabu shabu is all about the quality of the ingredients and the very important dipping sauces. The ponzu--and, lord, do I love ponzu--is so freakin' good with this splash of citrus essence that makes my mouth water. The goma dare one is stellar, too, and everyone always gives the staff a hard time about its secret "peanut" recipe.

In addition to the above, you get two seasonal appetizers. I have had blue fin tartare (fantastic), deep-fried breaded ankimo (amazing), other carpaccios, sashimis, tempuras, and house-made tofu garnished with spicy daikon. They are all delicious with the best being the blue fin and ankimo. Next, they will present you with either perfectly fluffy chawanmushi or a soothing bowl of soup with a beautiful piece of fish. Third, you choose either udon or zosui (rice porridge that is made by cooking the rice in the very broth that you cook the vegetables and meat in). I always choose the zosui, as it really ties together the flavors of the meal in a brilliant way. It is also one of those savory comfort foods I loved while growing up and it is a real treat to have it expertly prepared right in front of you. Lastly, you select a dessert: green tea mousse (pretty good, but I have had better), creme brulee (nice!), or a banana crisp with banana ice cream (love, just perfect, perfect, perfect!).

A modest-sized restaurant, everything about the place bespeaks elegance. Service, manners, Masa-san's mannerisms, circumspection, impeccable ikebana, minimalist Japanese decor. I have not been here in ages, but now all I can think of are razor-thin slices of beef that disintegrate as they meet one's tongue.

Kagaya
418 E 2nd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 617-1016
kagaya.dla.menuclub.com

Only If You Have Money To Burn and A Compass

2009-12-17T11:42:00.000-08:00

A self-described hard-core sushi fiend from Tokyo no less brought me here and, forgive me (due to the exorbitant prices and we are in a recession), but I have to be honest, I am impressed. I will add that I am a fairly hard sell myself when it comes to sushi, as I eschew rolls, thus the quality of the fish is always palatably transparent. In a nutshell, Nishimura-san knows his fish and his standards are cutthroat high.

Leaving it up to the chef with omakase, I can barely mask my giddy delight as he presents his triumphant line-up. Cuts, uber precious as they are, glisten as if touched by morning dew and taste like they are fresh off the hook. We have indescribably fresh tuna, yellowtail, mackerel, and *drumroll* butter fish. The toro is amazingly smooth and probably reaches my stomach at about the speed of light. Mirugai comes out more delicate than I am accustomed to, but possesses a beautifully clean, chewy, slightly muscled texture. Salmon, something I am sensitive to, as it often has a lingering, oily taste I shun, is anything but. The scallops easily are among the best I have tried. We also have several kinds of snapper, blue fin, wild salmon, kanpachi, orange clam, and skipjack. I am practically delirious, since I am so happy. Everything is remarkable and tastes incredulously fresh, as if in the kitchen, he has his own private ocean where he nourishes fish from their infancy into magnificent, stunted-in-size, but packed-with-flavor thoroughbreds.

Good luck finding this place. There is no sign, only a wooden gate and a plant outside the door. Nishimura-san has a cult-like following which is why he apparently believes he has absolutely zero need to advertise. Indeed, he almost does not want you to make your reservation. You NEED the address, but that will not guarantee that you score on your first try. Factor in time for error if it is your first visit. It is across the street from the Pacific Design Center. It is on Melrose between La Cienaga and San Vicente. If it is night, use the lovely light shining from the Pacific Design Center as a guide. If it is day, use the sun. All gadgets--natural, antiquated, and digitized--will come in handy.

I do not even want to talk about the bill. It is insane. Even though it is his wallet that cringes, I cannot help but be indignant. To repeat, exorbitant. (For this price, I recommend just going to the creme de la creme of L.A. sushi, Urasawa.) May I remind everyone that our economy is limping? Thus, do not come here unless you have a Japanese fat cat who looks uncannily like Toshiro Mifune treating you or you have money to burn.

Restaurant Nishimura
8684 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 659-4770

Food 911: Girl Passes Out at La Folie

2009-12-17T09:17:00.000-08:00

My friends took me here for my birthday and it was a truly seam-busting, cherub-cheek-inducing, blissfully ballooning, borderline dangerous food coma experience. Weirdly enough, I am describing a top-notch, Michelin-starred French restaurant, not a Korean barbeque house. How odd, fancy-schmancy French restaurants are not supposed to really feed you. Well, La Folie is a defiant one. Due to large French portions, including a massive slab of seared foie gras, I literally could not move after dessert. I just sat there, clearly out of it, ready to just pass out.

La Folie is a glutton's paradise. We all decided on the 5-course menu to the chagrin of our uncorseted abdomens. Add on the four intercessional courses (gratis), and you are reading the writings of a 5-course + 4 dinner survivor. I am lucky to be here sort of back to my size.

From a brilliant carrot uni soup to an airy egg custard to tasty cardamom pudding and strawberry granita, each amuse bouche represents a thumbnail sketch of the gastronomic delight ahead.

The appetizers are stellar. They offer the most scrumptiously flavorful Dungeness crab salad. The seared scallop is perfectly cooked to demonstrate spraying juices and the lobster bisque is just heaven.

For seafood, get the poached lobster. It arrives with plush pillows of butternut squash ravioli. Bites of my friends' very good black cod and the signature Le Boeuf dish indicate that a finely prepared lobster is hard to beat.

The desserts do not disappoint. The Valhrona milk chocolate passionfruit bombe comes with this gorgeously layered hazelnut dacquoise. Paired with a scoop of black pepper gelato, you end up with the most fascinating array of flavors colliding in your mouth. The chocolate fondant with brandy-dried fruits is dark and boozy. Finally, I cannot begin to describe how amazing the Kabocha pumpkin cake is. Adorned by chocolate-oolong tea mousse, kabocha and caramel ice cream, and, one of my favorite fruits, crisply slippery Fuyu persimmons, words cannot describe how mouthwateringly delectable this work of art is.

With the help of the excellent sommelier, wine pairings do not get more exciting. The Bordeaux and Rhone lists are impressive. As it goes, the right wine can make bites explosively eye-opening and intriguing and, presently, all I can say is that I am intoxicated by French wine's powers.

The service is impeccable--attentive, knowledgable, and warmly courteous. They presented me with an unexpected lovely birthday-inscribed cake and chocolate card. Too kind! As for the room, it is small, but elegant and warm. To top it off, Chef Roland Passot came out himself to say hello. He is really friendly and a total charmer. Now, how does one discreetly leave a restaurant in a stretcher? Carry on.

La Folie
2316 Polk St.
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 776-5577
http://www.lafolie.com/

DJ Ludo Masters the Culinary Art of Mixing

2009-12-16T20:05:00.000-08:00

As the year comes to a close, I will always remember 2009 as the year I met Ludo Lefebvre, a culinary artist of the highest order. At the 25th hour, due to a last minute cancellation, a friend invited me to LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar. Oh my goodness, my taste buds shall never forget that night. It was an evening that truly captured what I love about food--the casual joy and laughs of gathering around dishes that tickle the five senses, not the least of which is the inimitably satisfying sense of taste.

While doing some research for this article, I learned that, to my surprising delight, I can say that I met Ludo even before his popular "guerrilla style pop-up restaurant" visits (the concept of LudoBites is that Ludo and his "guerrilla" set up at different restaurants for a designated period of time and then move on). One of my favorite Los Angeles restaurants will always be L'Orangerie, an exquisite French restaurant of romance and elegant fine dining that used to grace La Cienaga. What I remember most were the creative dishes featuring fois gras. They also made a killer chocolate souffle, one of the best I have ever had, even rivaling souffle in Paris (the pastry chef when I went was Akira Hirose). Well, guess who was executive chef when I visited L'Orangerie? None other than Chef Lefebvre!

For special occasions, I went to L'Orangerie in the mid to late '90s and left speechlessly euphoric after every visit, replaying the meal in my head as I drifted off to delicious sleep. Upon hearing that L'Orangerie was closing in 2006, I made an explicit point of returning to L.A. for one last meal. The restaurant remained a palatial stunner, but the truth is the meal itself, though good, was not great and certainly not on par with the ones of memories past. I do not believe it is a coincidence that Ludo had since moved on from L'Orangerie and was no longer in the kitchen (from 2004, he was the head chef at Bastide, which closed in 2008). Clearly, it was Ludo's cooking, especially his winning innovative showcases of fois gras, that I missed.

With great fortune, here I am in the present, indulging in his talent once again. I am privileged to have eaten at some amazing restaurants in 2009, including Providence in L.A., Quince in S.F., Gary Danko in S.F., Daniel in NYC, and The Modern in NYC. LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar is in my top five favorite dinners of the year. It was my first taste of Ludo's idea of setting up shop at kitchens for a brief stint and conjuring small plates using classical French techniques with an experimental, international play of spices and flavors.

LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar
My introduction to Ludo's "guerrilla style pop-up restaurant" concept is not only memorable for the fineness of food (creative, high quality, brilliantly tasty), but also marvelously friendly yet professional service. The key difference from my other wonderful dinners this year is the atmosphere and, in this respect, I fully concede to being biased, as I have a preference for casual fine dining. Sure, I enjoy dressing up, but there is nothing like having great food and wine in an intimate, less formal, relaxed setting where you can chill and hang out with the chef. For example, while at Providence, Chef Michael Cimarusti and staff are wonderfully gracious and warm, it feels like one is the recipient of impeccable trained service (not that there is anything wrong with this, no complaints, just an observation). However, the experience at LudoBites is strikingly different. Held this time at Breadbar on 3rd Street, the ambience is laid-back and delightfully casual with a great outdoor patio that allows one to take full advantage of balmy SoCal summer evenings. The chef himself, the very cool, very French, hence illegally charming Ludo Lefebvre casually approaches tables in jeans and a t-shirt to get to know patrons and share cooking frustrations (like disastrous dumplings, haha). It feels so much like a fabulous dinner party that he threw together.

Predictably, the hottest dinner party in town serves the most amazing food. I cannot forget the first dish even if I tried. Indeed, it is my favorite for being nothing like I expected yet being sublimely delicious. Called Chorizo Cantaloupe Cornichon, is it no wonder I imagined some kind of sausage? To my surprise, what arrives is a mango-colored soup ornamented by pickles and edible flowers. One taste and I hover, ready to pounce on it again. A chilled soup, it is reminiscent of bacon. You heard me, yes, bacon! Ludo extracts the smokiness of bacon and infuses it into the refreshing taste of summer: a whipped smooth gazpacho laced with the essence of pickled radish, smoky pork, accompanied with cubes of fresh cantaloupe. I love this so much. It is the dish that captured the nature of his cooking: unique play with high quality ingredients that leaves you wide-eyed, excited, and deliriously happy because it all tastes soooooo good.

Chorizo Cantaloupe Cornichon, a personal favorite, is a brilliantly crafted soup that tastes like summer.

The fois gras black croque Monsieur is just incredible. Injected with black squid ink, the bread takes on the hue of black soot. You dip this fois gras sandwich into an accompanying cherry amaretto marmalade that you will want to secretly hoard in your purse so that you can have it with your brekkie toast. Unbelievable how each ingredient is evident in the mouth yet a seamless actor playing one of many parts. The end result is divine.

two orders of foie gras black croque Monsieur

Another personal favorite, the fois gras black croque Monsieur with cherry amaretto marmalade.

Several other dishes boast the synergistic use of ingredients to create, literally, most edible art. To be consumed in one bite, the lobster medallions should disappear in a flash, but not so fast that one cannot discern the honey, the sherry, and the lingering finish of rosemary at the end.

lobster medallions with honey-sherry vinegar vinaigrette, daikon, rosemary

The fish and chips is unlike any fish and chips I have ever had with its marriage of the softest cod with a peanut buttery crust for some trusty crunch. This dish arrives with super mild, defanged kimchi (I am Korean, I was scratching my head). It all works together, though, especially that beautiful cut of fish with that toasted, honey-beer sear.

fish & chips, kimchee, honey-Beer, peanut butter

For dessert, nothing bests the Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta Caviar Caramel. The essential taste recalls to mind Salted Caramel ice cream from Bi-Rite Creamery in San Francisco, yet smoother with fun, luxurious itty-bitty bubbles of caviar that pop pleasurable chimes of salt over your creamy dessert. Fear not, this caviar is super clean-tasting, no fishy aftertaste whatsoever. Bravo.

Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta,Caramel Caviar, my favorite dessert, marries two classics--caviar and panna cotta--to create something fanciful and flavorful.

The polenta is a revelation. Oh my heavens, this is "haute cuisine" comfort food. It is the most warm-blanky porridge, thick and glutinous, topped with black truffle. Even Linus would give up his beloved blanket for this stuff. You stick your spoon in and get this heavenly bite of cantal cheese and perfectly cooked polenta. The cantal cheese and truffle: It is just out of control, crazy good. Next, you pick up that spoon again and go digging for that meat. It might take a while, as the polenta is beautifully thick and hearty, but keep looking. It is there, like a buried treasure. When you hit that oxtail, pry that sucker out and eat it with the warm polenta and that phenomenal, gooey cheese. You will feel the warmest fuzzies and want to just hug everyone. I recommend this dish to world leaders to help usher in world peace.

Polenta with black truffle, cantal cheese, and oxtail, this warm and hearty porridge is gooey cheesy and beautiful truffly.

On his website, Ludo expresses how he "wants to present an atmosphere similar to the way he grew up in France, people 'living' around the table." I can confidently say that I feel that I have lived at his table, happily visited France, and now I do not want to leave!

marinated fried chicken in duck fat with brown butter potato salad

chocolate cupcake, fois gras chantilly, candied bacon-almonds, maple syrup

LudoBites 3.0 and Royal T Get "In Bed Together"

Throughout my life, despite all the hard times, I have always felt lucky. While walking around minding my own business, I have had self-described psychics approach me just to tell me that I have very good energy and that good things are going to happen to me (I never visited their businesses, gave them any money, nor had my fortune read.) Now, I have not won the lottery, but, I continue to feel and know that I am one lucky girl. It is a strong confidence that good things are going to happen to me... or at least, my stomach.

Once again, my wonderful friend invited me to LudoBites, the same dining partner whom I shared the Breadbar evening with. This time we attended opening night of an exclusive 13-day stint of LudoBites at Royal T. The Royal T is an art gallery space in Culver City. Currently, they are hosting Jane Glassman's exhibit, "In Bed Together," but there remains evidence of the previous wildly popular exhibit, "Hello Kitty Three Apples." It is an interesting choice of venue for Ludo's laid-back, interactive approach with his diners.

After telepathic communication with my four friends, we point to the menu and convey to our waitress, "Right down the line." Translation: We will have one of everything on the menu and we will supplement our dinner with an extra order of the fois gras beignet and pork belly with pickles mustard tartine. As gluttonous as this sounds, if you have a similar-sized party, I recommend it, as these are tapas-style small plates, designed to be shared and savored.

Among my favorites, I would be amiss to not mention the scallops with brown butter, pineapple, and black powder. The scallops are barely cooked, if at all, and the perfect firm texture recalls refreshing Peruvian style ceviche. Dusted with black powder extracted from squid ink (a trick I first observed with his fois gras black croque Monsieur, scroll above), cubes of pineapple beautify with sunny yellow and lend a sparkle of fruity sweet for a unique and extremely tasty marriage.

scallops with brown butter, pineapple, and black powder

In a beauty contest for Best Looking Dish, my vote goes to the Monterey squid with chorizo oil, kimchi puree, and grilled sweet jalepenos. It looks ready for a photo shoot. Dots of deep pink on the squid with matching trimming, the arrangement of sweet jalepenos like petals on a flower, it is a vision.

One bite of the smoky flavor of the squid makes me stop, mouth agape. I am instantly transported to memories of eating Korean cuttlefish with my grandmother, as she charred sheets over the open flame stove. Like lots of Korean kids, I grew up snacking on smoked cuttlefish in strips or whole sheets, stinky breath be damned. It amazes me that the analogous flavor jolted my memory like a light switch. Notwithstanding the obvious use of kimchi, Ludo's inspiration for this dish is definitely Korean flavors to my nostalgic palate.

Monterey squid with chorizo oil, kimchi puree, and grilled sweet jalepenos

Another personal favorite that is threaded with the essence of Korean cooking but French in technique is the confit pork belly with mustard tartine and frisee. There are no Korean ingredients in this dish, but it recalls to mind Korean pork belly with spicy daikon and kimchi. Let me be clear: They do not taste the same at all due to all kinds of differences, foremost, the use of different spices. That said, the layers built on top of a slice of toasted baguette soaked with so much porky, spicy deliciousness is similar to the way Koreans eat daeji bossam (pork belly wrapped in napa cabbage and spices), beginning with a layer of napa cabbage, cuts of pork, and topped with seasoned crunchy vegetables. Just thinking about Ludo's pork tartine makes my mouth water. Little mustard seeds adorn, fresh slices of cucumber provide water-fresh coolness, and a blizzard of frisee canopies pork belly cooked to a crisp with tender, juicy meat. All this on slices of French baguette polished with a complementary spread sprinkled with red spices to provide a hint of heat.

confit pork belly, pickles mustard tartine and frisee

My favorite dessert is the Fourme d'Ambert tourte with red pear and honey-balsamic. I love bleu cheese, the stinkier the better. Fear not, pungent cheese phobes, the bleu Ludo uses is extremely mild, so mild that it is nearly unrecognizable. However, the veins of blue and subtle nip of tang betrays that it is a member of the tantalizing bleu family. With a dot of the honey-balsamic sauce and a cube of the red pear, the crumbly tart disintegrates beautifully in the mouth and you will rejoice in the biggest case of sweet food coma.

Fourme d'Ambert tourte with red pear and honey-balsamic

Special mention must go to Ludo's latest foie gras extravaganza: the foie gras beignet. As I explain in the second paragraph, the foie gras dishes at L'Orangerie when Ludo was the head chef were famous for their originality and unabashed decadence. My personal favorite was the fois gras ravioli in a black truffle broth. I make no bones about the fact that I love foie gras (especially seared) and I would take a bullet for truffle. This dish was pure luxury, like cashmere against the cheek, caressing my esophagus on its way to my tummy. L'Orangerie also boasted a foie gras creme brulee. Rich, rich, rich, you practically made money if you could finish this one.

I see that Ludo is a diligent devotee to fois gras manipulation. At LudoBites, he has created a fois gras croque Monsieur (scroll up, photos under LudoBites at Breadbar) and now a fois gras beignet. Two ounces of arteries-sighing fois gras encased in a glistening pastry shell, this is fois gras fit for a king, specifically Louis XIV, one of Europe's most grandiose and fearlessly extravagant monarchs, as demonstrated by his palatial legacy, Versailles.

ornate and opulent palace of Versailles

Louis would be able to handle this fois gras boulder with flair. I, as a commoner, am awe-struck and surrender to the enormity of my fois gras foe. No worries, blue blood flows through my dining companions. Somebody cleaned my plate, lickety-split.

fois gras beignet with yellow celery roumalade

You might wonder why the food photographs look like the dishes are striking a pose. No, I do not tote along a tripod and mini studio with me when I go out to eat. It is just me, myself, and I (with my three stomachs). These LudoBites food pictures look the way they do because the staff think of EVERYTHING. I mean, everything.

Behold, the white camera box! Lamps embank the white box for superlative light. Seriously.

See what I mean? EVERYTHING. To attend to *some* diners' burning desire to capture their meal in a montage of shots (who are these loons???), Krissy Lefebvre (Ludo's wife) and staff have set up a white camera box embanked with superlative light for the perfect head shot. My mind is still reeling from this one. Definitely a first for me. :)

Ludo and his wife Krissy do not hide from their guests. Throughout the evening, they stop by tables, ask how you are and what you think of the food. I lament to him at one point, "Ludo, everything is wonderful, but where is the Chorizo Cantaloupe Cornichon? That is one of my favorites!" He looks at me most earnestly, replies with animated, wide-eyed boyish sincerity, and a French accent, to boot, "But it is not in season!" I stand corrected. :)

There is Krissy! (front lady with blond hair and black-rimmed glasses)

Mixing and playing with fresh, seasonal ingredients is one of the signatures of his cooking and one of the hallmarks of his success. Everything tastes indescribably fresh, as if meat, garnishes, fruits, and vegetables have been chopped, minced, and pureed minutes before delivery to one's table.

wild striped bass with garden vegetables and yuzu aioli

marinated hangar steak with crunchy escargot, baby corn, bok choy, and black mole

chocolate cake with coconut sorbet soup and pink pepper meringue

pistachio rice milk and pound cake

He is a culinary artist, classically trained by the illustrious Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Passard, but open to playing from an international palette of colors, flavors, and spices. With his cool, fun, and groovy sense of food, Ludo strikes me as akin to a disc jockey working to master the art of synthesizing and mixing. Moreover, with DJ Ludo, the same show is never the same show due to his profoundly open attitude towards food, culture, and how he feels on a given day. Where and when is your next show, DJ Ludo? No need to look at the menu, I will eat up anything you spin any time!

http://www.ludolefebvre.com/ludo-bites

Creative Tasting Menus At Aqua

2009-12-15T13:13:00.000-08:00

Aqua used to be THE place in town. But, ever since Michael Mina left, he took some fanfare with him. That, the fierce San Francisco restaurant competition, and the limping economy probably explains why every table was not occupied when I came here Saturday evening for an interview dinner. No matter, I had a wonderfully innovative meal and service was on-point terrific. We ordered the 7-course tasting menu, which was perfectly paced with sizable, albeit a bit small, portions (to compare, Gary Danko's portions are about 1.75x greater; yes, I measured). :)

1) baked Kumamoto oyster with thyme and sweet garlic butter - Ever-so-lightly baked to give it a nice soft texture, this is like a raw oyster, but ten times more delicious with its tease of herbs. Fabulous start.

2) Ceviche of Geoduck clam with red onions, mint, and caviar - Despite the compelling description, this is simply okay. Not bad, but unmemorable.

3) Saute of abalone with crushed potato and fleur de sel (sea salt) - Now this rocks and I never eat abalone unless it is in Korean abalone rice porridge (which only has tidbits of it to begin with). Simple seasoning plus amazing support by the potato, the clean taste of abalone emerges and the dish hits just the right palatable note.

4) Tartare of ahi tuna with Moroccan spice, lemon confit, and fresh herbs - Quite tasty, though I would add a splash of more lemon to make it a bit more tart. No question, though--the tuna is top-notch.

5) Maine lobster with sunchoke (some type of artichoke) and red wine bearnaise - Divinely perfect bearnaise, they just have to make sure the lobster is indeed from Maine with this dish. 'Tis.

6) Seared Diver scallop and braised veal breast with green garlic, artichoke, and veal jus - Excellent, great balance to this dish. And you know a scallop is cooked right when it sprays those delicious juices. *happy dance*

7) Rose-raspberry almond tart shell filled with rose cream, raspberries, lychee granite, and pistachio creme anglaise - Love. I wanted to take both plates of this dessert and make them both MINE at a separate table. One of the best desserts of recent memory (and I consume dessert like my daily vitamins), it is creamy (rose cream, pistachio creme anglaise), icy (lychee granite), crunchy (tart shell), and a kaleidoscope of creative flavors. Great palate cleanser and the ultimate ending to a seafood meal.

If creativity is how one earns a Michelin star, I can see how Aqua has kept its remarkable two. That said, earning two Michelin stars is a rarity in San Francisco. Only two others share the honor in the city itself (Michael Mina and Coi; French Laundry in Napa has an illustrious three stars). I am just a lay person piggie, but if Michael Mina and Aqua (with its desperately-seeking-makeover decor) have maintained their two, for pete's sake, give an extra star to Gary and *hands on hips* why are you shafting Ron Siegel (at the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room, they only have one)?

All in all, I am pleased with my dinner at Aqua. Not only are the dishes examples of interesting, playful juxtapositions of ingredients, the seasonal tasting menus are a draw all by themselves. I for one will try to return for the mushroom tasting. I am a mushroom fiend, forevermore in love with truffles, chanterelles, porcino, and shiitake. The citrus tasting is next on my list. I love Asian citrus--yuzu and kaffir lime. Lastly, there is a tomato tasting. Tomatoes (and mushrooms) are the reason I eat so much pizza. Thin crust, please. 'Nuff said.

Aqua
252 California St.
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 956-9662
http://www.aqua-sf.com/aqua/

Note to Michelin: If Michael Mina Keeps His Two Stars, Give Gary One More

2009-12-14T18:15:00.000-08:00

I came here for a birthday dinner and everything was perfect. Located at the corner of Hyde and North Point in Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco, the door emblazoned with "GD" is tasteful and distinguished. At first, the interior may strike you as quite lovely--bouquets of orchid flowers delicately dangle from the walls, imbuing the place with color and elegance. But, mingling among the flowers hang soccer ball-size disco balls. I kid you not. What? Why? No. Just no. You will get over it, though, as I did. The leitmotif of the decor (excluding Vegas disco balls) reflects the Asian touches of the cuisine--Asian-styled panels that recall scroll paintings and a somber zen-like palette of beiges and grays. Honestly, it can use a make-over, not least of all due to confounding disco balls.

However, the food is excellent. To start, try the signature glazed oysters with osetra caviar.

signature glazed oysters with osetra caviar

Quite tasty, but not even close to the perfection of the lobster salad garnished by persimmons, pistachios, pomegranate, and a gorgeously whipped dollop of chestnut mousse. Oh my, the flavors of this is exquisite. A little sweet, tart, nutty, freshly green, capped by the juiciness of quality lobster, it sings like a delicate Chopin etude.

lobster salad with persimmons, pomegranate, and chestnut mousse

The herb crusted tuna is profoundly fresh, accompanied by creme fraiche spaetzle, sprinkled with toasted pine nuts, endive, and orange.

herb-crusted tuna with creme fraiche spaetzle

Again, though, you cannot beat expertly handled lobster. Cushioned by potato puree and drizzled with edamame beans, this dish also brings together different elements that works like a Mozart symphony.

lobster atop potato puree with edamame beans

When fine dining, I must have my foie gras and Gary Danko delivers--quail stuffed with onion, foie gras, pine nuts with a side of wild mushroom risotto cake and pomegranate. Goodness, this is absolutely delicious. Again, there are no small parts--the foie gras does not overwhelm and the dish can be savored bite after bite, each ingredient playing its part marvelously.

quail stuffed with foie gras with a side of mushroom risotto cake and pomegranate

A rarity, they offer bison cooked medium-rare. It pairs like a soulmate with one red in particular (I forget), but it goes just as well with cabernet sauvignon.

bison with edamame beans and pearl onions and glazed mushrooms

For dessert, buttercake with huckleberry compote and yuzu ice cream. The exterior of the cake is crispy-chewy, which contrasts nicely with the plush warm interior. Add some berry sweetness and then that nip of delicately tart characteristic of yuzu that makes me weak in the knees and you have one happy girl.

buttercake with huckleberry compote and yuzu ice cream

The wine list deserves a paragraph. It is award-winning and longer than War and Peace. Stunning selection complete with delightful sommeliers and cellarist. The cab sauv of the evening was from Napa and never bored us, as it was nuanced and kaleidoscopic. They make amazing cocktails as well. I took an eternity to decide and settled on a Champagne cocktail. I will be back for the Pear Orange Blossom.

Finally, I cannot say kinder things about the service. All of the staff was so nice, warm, and truly went out of their way to make dinner memorable. They brought out a plate of desserts with "happy birthday" inscribed in edible (yay) chocolate, as well as a courtesy gift of pumpkin cake wrapped in gold.

When I was about to leave and mentioned that I did not see the bathroom, one waiter exclaimed, "But, it's the best part!" and personally escorted me to to the serene lavatory. :)

Wonderful people behind blue ribbon cooking that comes with a sense of humor, Gary Danko earned its Michelin star.

Gary Danko
800 N. Point St.
San Francisco, CA 94109
http://www.garydanko.com/

Find A French Deal At Chapeau!

2009-12-14T17:08:00.000-08:00

Excellent hospitality, great value, consistently delicious French dinners, I believe Chapeau! is one of the best deals in San Francisco. Moreover, if you love French food like moi, it is pure pleasure to enter Chef Phillipe's domain. From entree, you will recognize that this is a restaurant nursed with love and nurtured every step of the way with exquisite attention by the proprietor/chef himself. It is clear that he personally designs the menu and selects the wine list. It is his baby, and as he warmly greets you, you can see that he loves Chapeau! and loves his diners for joining him in a celebration of French food.

To start, what is more French than foie gras? It arrives seared (my favorite kind) and it is outstanding here. Eat it slowly and savor it with your wine. Another fantastic starter is the warm brie salad. You must try this. The contrast of textures and flavors between the pillowy soft brie, potato dauphin, and the spicy, fresh greens is divine. If you enjoy salmon or want to get your fill of omega-3, they offer a remarkable triple salmon appetizer. For main entrees, get any kind of lamb. I do not even like lamb that much, but they do lamb so well here. They are expert with pork, too, and I normally am not partial to pork either. Chapeau! transforms me into a carnivorous barbarian. As for the filet mignon, it is just a dream to carve. I love the prime rib with fava beans and green beans. You cannot go wrong with the hearty cassoulet. Definitely get the palate cleansers. If you have room for dessert, the creme brulee, profiteroles, and house-made sorbets are fabulous.

The wine list is also amazing. Phillipe will help you select the right French wine and he welcomes you to try until you are happy. Once you have selected, he uncorks and drinks with you in one full swoop. How is that for panache!

The bistro itself is newly renovated, much better than its predecessor, which was simply too small with closely knit tables. The new space is similarly spare with tablecloths, folded linen napkins, and flowers in vases, but exudes a warmth that the old Chapeau! lacked. With a classic decor, this place will age with charm. And not without humor. As explained on his website, Chapeau without the "!" means hat. With the "!" it means "Wow!" With likewise cheek, the bill arrives in a hat turned upside down. :)

Chapeau! is a restaurant about the beauty of food and wine, gracious manners and neighborhood warmth. As you put on your coat and prepare to leave, do not be surprised if Phillipe and his wife are at the door to give you a hug. One time, he ran out himself to return a cell phone that was left at the table. All sealed with a kiss!

Chapeau!
126 Clement St.
San Francisco, CA 94118
(415) 750-9787
http://www.chapeausf.com/

Zuni: An Oldie but a Goodie

2009-12-14T16:10:00.000-08:00

Zuni in San Francisco has not had much love in a while. When it used to be among the only restaurants in town that stayed open past 11pm, it got some late night credit. But, with the advent of NOPA, more people seem to go there, as that place is always bustling. Zuni, I will stand by you. I think of NOPA as the epigone of Zuni, actually--similar, but not as good.

First, I love the decor and layout. It has formality (white tablecloths, napkins, walls), but zero stuffiness, and warm coziness is conveyed by an open kitchen, brick walls, hardwood floors, and dark wood furnishings. There is something old-school classy about the place, too, possibly the fully stocked bar, one that you know comes with a bartender who actually knows how to make a Manhatten. Upstairs is a wonderful labyrinth. It is as if you are being led around someone's home. I love how tables are nestled into alcoves. Once seated, you will get a bird's eye view of the kitchen, the bar, the tops of people's heads. Downstairs, they have these utterly charming window seats, where you can sidle up to your honey or watch envious passers-by.

The menu will probably not impress, as it is only one page long. As one who has come here multiple times, I will say that everything they do, they do well. They use seasonal organic ingredients, so their menu rotates all the time. All of their salads are tasty. No complaints about their pastas either, always cooked al dente. Their soups are divine. I still dream about a halibut one. For comfort food, they offer well-prepared polenta and out-of-this-world risotto.

The burger is just stellar. Juiciest hamburger I have had the pleasure of meeting, it lies on porous foccacia, which sops up the juices and keeps the meat lovingly moist. Pickled onions garnish and with a huge batch of shoestring fries, you have one killer lunch.

Now, for that signature roasted chicken, tell them right away if you want it, and if you call for reservations, let them know at this time. It truly takes one hour. But, boy, all of you who diss chicken (including me to some extent, since it is so often slightly dry and ho-hum), Zuni's chicken will make you question your values, or in the least, your hierarchy of meat. It is incredible. Paired with a delicious bread salad--fresh greens, raisins, pine nuts--the roast is succulent, perfectly seasoned, and tears apart like a loaf of fresh baked bread.

I have had a lot of their desserts and my favorites are the espresso granita (frozen dessert comprised of coffee crystals with first-rate whipped cream), a slice of gorgonzola drizzled with honey (paired with muscat, just heaven), and assorted pots de creme (chocolate, caramel).

As far as service, I love these people. They always treat me with class, respect, and reciprocate smiles. They always seat my party at the loveliest tables. When at the bar, they check on us and just make sure that we are doing okay. I do not care if it is not that cool to love Zuni anymore. You will always have a sweet spot in my stomach.

Zuni Cafe
1658 Market St
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 552-2522
http://www.zunicafe.com/

Asanebo Earned Its Michelin Star

2009-12-13T20:42:00.000-08:00

After living in San Francisco and the Bay Area (not Torrance and all those cities along the 110 South that Angelenos collectively now refer to as the "South Bay") for so long, I must admit, it is weird being back in LaLaLand. But, there are three things about L.A. that I have gotten used to oh-so-easy-peasy sneakin' easy (other than my parents who are planted here): 1) Korean food - simply put, it kicks major bootay, nowhere else can compare other than Seoul, 2) Korean spas, my bathtub away from my bathtub, and 3) SUSHI in the form of the most beautiful, decadently fresh morsels of pink, orange, and translucent splendor.

With that preface, let me share that Chef Shige Fujimoto at Asanebo is a first-rate pro and it is my pleasure to sing his praises. Service is delightful and they do not get all fawning spazzy with celebs in the house. I will go through the third tier omakase which comprises of 12 dishes and is $200 per person.

1) Homemade agedashi tofu with soy dipping sauce - The buttery smoothness of this tofu confuses me as I stare at my empty dish. How can tofu be THIS good??? Glass is jealous of how smooth this tofu is.

2) Kumamoto oyster trio - One unadorned, one embellished with roe, and one with uni and caviar. Very fresh and superb quality.

3) Basil spinach and shiitake mushroom salad - Crowned with Alaskan king crab and deep fried potato shavings, my daily ration of mushrooms is fulfilled nicely.

4) Deep fried shrimp and white fish with a salsa garnish - Fun, delectable presentation, it arrives in a sparkling martini glass. The salsa comprises of orange, onion, and ponzu. Absolutely delicious.

5) Soba with kelp and uni - This is all right, but nothing mindblowing. It is a wee bit sour-tasting, but it works well as a palate cleanser.

6) Encrusted bonito sashimi and baby squid with miso sauce - With its noodle-like texture, the squid does a disappearing act into my mouth.

7) Lettuce cup with Chilean sea bass - Sublime flavor, breaking apart with the mere brush of my chopsticks, I want more-more-more of these.

8) Seared toro with sweet soy glaze - At first, I nearly utter a protest, "Shige-san, please, don't go and torch my toro." Thankfully, I keep mum. Just imagine hitting the "mute" button at just the right moment. That is my face. Folks, omakase does not (roughly) translate to, "trust the chef" for nothing. The toro disintegrates into nothingness as it meets tongue. Beautiful vanishing trick that should seriously consider going on tour.

9) Lobster sashimi with black truffle - Just remembering this dish is making my mouth water. One of the most luxuriest-tasting items I have ever had and definitely a summer blockbuster yet a quality film, too (think The Dark Knight). I cannot wait to go back for this one!

10) Assorted sashimi and sushi - The kanpachi, big-eyed tuna, hamachi, mackerel, and salmon belly are excellent. All top-notch and akin to fresh-off-the-hook.

11) Warm chocolate fudge cake - It is cake. It is warm. I am a cake fiend. Cliffhanger...

12) Banana strawberry crepe - It is strawberries. It is a crepe. See #11.

Thus, endeth a wonderful omakase dinner with a dash of creativity to keep it original and fresh. To my taste buds, Asanebo earned its Michelin star. Moreover, despite twelve items, I am not belly up. I am just right. I even have room for wine and more cake. I think there is a special section of my stomach that stocks up on cake, though, so you normal mortals may have a different experience and just wanna hit the hay.

Asanebo
11941 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City, CA 91604
(818) 760-3348

Taking a Breather at Mr. Frick's

2009-12-12T02:53:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite museums and definitely my favorite museum in NYC, I can return to the Frick over and over again and never tire of it. It is that special. It is not so much the art, but it is the grand mansion itself, the way the inspiring permanent collection is arranged just as Henry Clay Frick left it, the fantastic temporary exhibits that visit, the hop and skip from Central Park, and all of the beautiful views from the exquisite rooms, from which one can take one's time and fully experience all the beauty in an intimate, perfect-sized scale.

The library is amazing and boasts countless first editions. The Fragonard and Boucher rooms are nothing short of mesmerizing in their display of wealth and fine taste. The dining room allows my imagination to take flight. I see the coal/coke and steel magnate imperiously presiding over a table of guests when you know all he wants to do is kick everyone out and return to be alone with his paintings. Can you blame him? The interior garden with the fountain is a captivating gem of a room. Unbelievable that it is part of what was once someone's home. Finally, the inner courtyard is simply splendid, a marvelous place to take a breather, or if you are lucky, indulge in a live concert in the most tranquil of settings in the most urban of cities.

As for the artwork, it is Renaissance with Dutch, Flemish, and Spanish greats, including Rembrandt, Goya, and El Greco. There is also a sizable number of Gainsborough paintings. Most breathtaking is the most beautiful Ingres, "Comtesse d'Haussonville" and a gorgeous Il Bronzino, "Lodovico Capponi" that renders an almost palpable green velvet. And the Frick can flaunt three Vermeers. Yes, count 'em, three Vermeers! That is mighty impressive when there are only 35 Vermeers in the world. Once "America's most hated man" or not, Mr. Frick sure knew how to decorate.

*photo is from frick.org

The Frick Collection
1 East 70th St.
New York, NY 10021
(212) 288-0700
http://www.frick.org/

Manhatten's House of Caron

2009-12-12T01:55:00.000-08:00

Entering Caron is like entering an Edwardian boudoir. Or let us get the country right: the French chambers of Marie Antoinette. You might feel a little underdressed, as the boutique recalls airspun Chantilly lace, derriere-boosting corsets, and layers of taffeta, muslin, and silk velvet. It is a luxurious pin cushion of a room, adorned with incredibly fine, jewel-like details that mark this legendary perfume house.

As a perfume lover, I would be amiss to not mention my love and admiration of many Caron fragrances. My favorites are: Nuit de Noel parfum (especially in the vintage black casing which looks like an elegant Chinese snuff bottle), Narcisse Noir parfum (yin and yang of orange blossom married to a dark, incense-y sandalwood, musk-civet base), Tubereuse parfum (gorgeous melody of vanilla-tinged tuberose), Parfum Sacre parfum and EDP (symphony of spices and incense against a backdrop of creamy vanilla and subtle flowers, incredibly sensual and intimate), and Violette Precieuse (interplay of sweet violets offset by fresh-cut grass, root-y iris, subtly musty rose, and violet leaves to create a dark, green soliflore). I also like Montaigne parfum and EDP (sophisticated, lush jasmine, bitter orange, vanilla, sandalwood) and Alpona (quirky medley of flowers, fruit, and oakmoss). Okay, I also confess to liking Acaciosa and En Avion as well. Yes, I love perfume. I love smelling good, and if that sounds nutty, a passion for perfume is essentially similar to a passion for food and wine. So there!

Narcisse Noir and Montaigne are available in the trademark, oblong-curved spray bottles. Tubereuse, Alpona, Acaciosa, and En Avion are offered in the fascinating urns, which are exclusive to this posh location and a few can be sighted at Bergdorf Goodman.

If you have one that you love, investing in a laydown bottle is worth it. In the long run, it not only is cost-effective, but it is environmentally friendlier (since you refill the same bottle over and over again), and the bottle itself looks lovely on one's vanity.

Another thing that you can try at the boutique are the Caron loose powders which come in beautiful gold containers. A decadently soft goosedown feather puff can be bought separately.

As for the service, it is wonderful. The ladies are all nice, courteous, and genuinely happy to be there and be of service. I have nothing but praise for this gem of a store.

Caron Boutique
675 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10021
(212) 319-4888
http://www.parfumscaron.com/en/home.php

Let's Get the Record Straight: L.A. Has Some Bad Eats, Too

2009-12-11T12:13:00.000-08:00

I do not want readers to think that I am some LaLaLand sycophant and that everything that enters my mouth here is golden. Far from the truth. I have had some horrible food in L.A., including Korean food, which, generally, is fantastic here (best in the States, outside Korea itself). But, oh man, when food here sucks, it sucks... *wincing gastrointestinal tract* Here are three tales of woe in order of cheapest to exorbitant meals.

Halmae Restaurant
Whoa, this was bad. My mom and I left metaphorically kicking rocks and stones with our hands in our pockets, wondering, "How has Halmae been around for soooooooo long?"

I stopped by here with my mom over the weekend while we were running errands. She was craving chung guk jang (bean curd stew with tofu; definitely an acquired taste, smelly and stinky, so not good for dates, business meals, or any time before bedtime actually, when one can brush one's teeth and tuck oneself under one's duvet and hide thy chung guk jang stink from the world). I have always liked the fried yellow croaker. You get four small-sized fish (smaller ones are more flavorful than the larger ones) that have perfectly fried, crispy skin.

They brought out the banchan. All wholly unappetizing-looking. Nonetheless, I sampled them. The kimchi was bizarre-tasting, almost fruity. So wrong. The seasoned bean sprouts were overboiled so that they all limped in despair. Depressing. The green salad was drizzled with a dressing that was pretty much akin to unflavored soy sauce. Too salty. The mook (acorn jelly) was okay, so I satisfied my banchan needs with two portions of that.

Our rice was overcooked. I loathe overcooked rice. My own halmoni (halmoni means grandmother in Korean; halmae is hinterland country slang for grandmother, it is an extremely rarely used term) makes it this way (to help with digestion) and it drives me bananas.

The fried yellow croacker was good. My mom and I licked the four fishies clean. I do not eat chung guk jang (daenjang jjigae is as bean curd-y as I go), but my mum loves it. I made a mental note that she was not working on it. After we left, I asked her if the chung guk jang was good. Calling it too watery, her face crinkled into a sour expression.

We both felt a little oogly noogly within an hour. Like I said, Mom and I were metaphorically kicking rocks and stones with our hands in our pockets. We were not pleased. We looked at each other, "Never, never, never, Halmae Jip, never again." Valuable digestive real estate occupied by Koreatown's worst. We felt so had. No excuses, it is not like we can't read or speak Korean. :(

Halmae Restaurant
3122 W. 8th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90005
(213) 385-0655

Oinkster
Oinkster made it to LA Weekly food critic, Jonathan Gold's top 99 list. I came here with some friends who were eager to try it. Frankly, the name of the place gave me pause, but I like my friends and just wanted to hang out and catch up.

Here comes Debbie Downer. I don't understand the glowing words on the street. Everything was all right, but I should have went with my instincts, which told me it would be a meal wasted. To be fair, pig has never been my meat of choice. Yes, the pastrami was tasty, but I could not get past all the stringy white. The pulled pork was less fatty, but quite dry. Still, nobody can accuse Oinkster of being miserly with the meats. Both sandwiches were loaded up and you must do your best to open jaws (attractively, of course, thou shalt always be a lady) like a hippopotamus to get your trap wrapped around them.

As for the Belgian fries, they were all right. Sauces were more interesting. The chipotle ketchup had a little zing and the creamy garlic aioli was pretty good. The strawberry milkshake tasted fine, but In-N-Out's is comparable. The cupcakes are famous or something. The peanut butter one tasted like a peanut butter cookie and the carrot cake, which I preferred, was fine. All in all, as my review suggests, everything was just okay, whatever, kind of boring. In fact, I'm bored writing this.

Before I bid adieu to Oinkster, please note the following. A report to the Department of Health and Human Services will promptly follow.

**Emergency Broadcast**

You know that rainbow spectrum vision with the cacophonous, neverending beep? Well, they always say "If this had been an actual emergency... " I have lived through two emergency situations: the Northridge earthquake and now this. THERE WAS A HAIR FRIED INTO A FRY. *shrill scream* Author of Fast Food Nation is nodding his head, "I'm not surprised." Upton Sinclair is giving Oinkster the finger from his grave. I was grossed out of my mind and nostalgically thought back to my first Happy Meal sans hair. :(

Oinkster
2005 Colorado Blvd.
Eagle Rock, CA 90041
(323) 255-6465

The Bazaar
Dinner was just abominable. My friends and I wore a curious "WTF" expression as dinner moved along (in snail's pace, I might add) and dessert did not expunge said expression. Places like this befuddle me to no end. You invest all this money into a fancy-pants location, pay mindboggling detail to bric-a-brac, furniture (love the pink sofa), every framed photograph, scribble, and thumbnail sketch on the wall, and the food ends up being a monumental joke. I mean, it was seriously bad with all kinds of weird textures and ambitiously creative flavors that failed miserably. Cornflakes with milk is superior to what we had.

We started with an amuse bouche (gratis), "Philly cheesesteak." Essentially, creamy cheese baked inside a piece of bread with a slap of meat on top. Ho-hum, at least it was edible.

1) Japanese baby peaches and persimmons - This dish was, to our collective surprise, quite good. High-five to persimmons, trying to save the day (sorry, babe, losing cause). In the end, though, do not get too excited. It is just slices of winning fruits, olive oil, and Greek yogurt.

2) Not Your Every Day Caprese - Cooked cherry tomatoes with olive oil dressed mozzarella balls. Nice, actually. It seems that it would behoove them to incorporate olive oil more in their tapas, as the persimmons and caprese were my favorites.

3) Tuna with Pedro Ximénez dressing (a sherry reduction) - As described, you cannot go wrong with seared tuna. The sauce was nothing memorable, which for this place, is a good thing.

4) Japanese tacos - Encrusted seared eel that was poorly seasoned and I could not find the eel.

5) Lamb loin with potatoes and mushrooms - I am not much of a lamb eater so I did not try this, but I will comment on how it looked bizarrely foamy and unappetizing.

6) Toro nigiri with watermelon - I am a toro fiend, and the quality of this itty bitty portion was just so-so. The fruit had none of the wonderful water coolness of freshly cut watermelon.

7) Scallops - The sauce was interesting--a bit salty with a hint of almond. Not really tasty, though, the orange curry color reminded me of harissa (tastes nothing like it). The scallops were chewy and tasted bland.

8) King Crab with raspberry sauce - The crab was barely okay, as in, edible (though hardly pleasurable), but the sauce was horrid--salt rock salty and tart that refused to mesh. To top it off, the dish arrived in what looked like a sardine can. Classy kitsch? No, just ugly.

9) Galician lobster medallions with potatoes - Wow, this was bad. Terrible quality lobster, it stunk of a fish market. I could not get the bloody thing out of the shell either. For the price ($15) and the uber precious portion, it should have slid right on out and made a "smart weapon" beeline for my mouth. The potatoes tasted "off," too, like they were just thawed and nuked.

10) Dark chocolate cake - I love cake and I love dark chocolate. This was not exactly cake (thick yet not rich, dry-to-the-tongue densely packed mousse) and it had none of the bitter, woodsy, complex cigar smokiness I love about dark chocolate. Boo!

11) Chocolate heart - They cannot even get the shape right. It was a caved-in circle, nothing near a heart (they better work on this before Valentine's Day, I foresee a lot of pissy couples). It tasted better than #10 (which isn't saying much since a candy bar tastes better than #10), warm chocolate sauce flows out and it is legitimately finish-able.

12) Clementine sorbet with blueberries and roses - A good palate cleanser (and, boy, we needed one after #7-9), the sorbet was sprinkled with citrus ice and was nicely refreshing. The rose-flavored thing (strange texture, like a dense, uncreamy cream) paired all right. Weirdly though, the dessert was quite unattractive (foamy mess). Odd for a place that is all about appearances.

A lot of plates, but let me not mislead you, I went to bed with a grumbling stomach. The price point of everything is way off. Highway robbery, actually, performed by matadors, to take on the motif of the place. Decor is all about looking expensive, proud bull fighting Barcelona, clearly inspired by Dali, Picasso, and other narcissists (well, Dali is not really a narcissist, he is probably bipolar).

Speaking of narcissists, all of you in love with yourselves, make yourself at home in the bathroom. More mirrors than a fun house, I was struck by how much it reminded me of the bathroom in "The Cook, the Thief, His Wife, and Her Lover." Amazingly similar in antiseptic whiteness. Something about it also recalls "A Clockwork Orange." Probably the lack of soul and narcissism. The sinks are groovy (like the ones at One Sunset). I love that Bazaar's restrooms are clean and all, but honestly, I would prefer a functioning kitchen and ease up with the foam.

Still, I have friends who dig the place. I also have friends who really want to go for the first time. Hence, I am sure I will return. Plus, to be fair, when I attended, it was opening week, which means there might have remained kinks to be worked out. Indeed, I went before even the Los Angeles Times food critic, S. Irene Virbila, visited (and gave the place a raving review). If anything, The Bazaar has a lively atmosphere that is conducive for a night of fun and debauchery. Whenever I get the clarion call, I will ready myself for drinks, a bathroom visit and photo shoot, and a sitting on "my" pink sofa (it matches one of my handbags). :P

The Bazaar
465 S. La Cienaga Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 246-5567

Nobu from Coast to Coast

2009-12-10T20:37:00.000-08:00

Let me begin by saying that I am not an enthusiast of chefs/restaurants franchising themselves. I have nothing against becoming famous, rich, or international. I am just a lover of quality over quantity and subscribe to the notion, "don't bite off more than you can chew." At the same token, I also believe, "don't throw out the baby with the bath water." There is absolutely nothing wrong with expanding and realizing your ambitions if, for the most part, you can handle it and are not compromising your integrity. And if you are in the restaurant biz, it sure helps to have more happy campers than naysayers.

For the most part, I like Nobu and view myself as a fan. Am I hankering to go to all of his restaurants? Certainly not. There are way too many spread over three continents. With that many flight changes, it would behoove me to kill two birds with one stone and commit myself to shuttle diplomacy and world peace by becoming Secretary of State Clinton's lackey.

That said, Nobu Matsuhisa is a pioneer in East-West fusion. Who would have thought? Japanese Peruvian food works. It works to the point that many of his trademark dishes have become universalized in the trendy Asian fusion scene. Items like rock shrimp tempura, soft shell crab tempura, tuna tartare, and how many times have you visited an Asian fusion restaurant that flaunts black cod marinated with miso? All the credit goes to Nobu. Before him, sushi was, frankly, in my view, still delicious and amazing, but he has made it more accessible to the entire world, and in the process, demonstrated that a Japanese cuisine as traditional as sushi can be successfully jazzed up with ingredients that would make the purist recoil in horror.

Nobu New York
I have only visited three Nobu restaurants, but among them is the flagship in New York City. No question, the flagship is my favorite of the three (Nobu NYC on Hudson, Nobu Next Door, Matsuhisa). Many do not seem to like the decor, finding it perhaps a bit antiseptic, but I really dig it. It used to be a bank, which explains the streamlined, cavernous qualities. In fact, the bar is located inside what was once a bank vault. Bamboo wood panels embellish the walls and the ambience is one of quintessential urban chic. As for the food, come to Nobu for the trailblazing, creative fusion, especially the hot dishes. Sushi is not his forte, and if you are a fresh sashimi Nazi, you will have criticism aplenty. I love fresh fish, and am gun-shy with fusion, but only because in my experience, too many chefs are too ambitious and they do not mix and match in a palatable way. That said, I love playful juxtapositions, thus when fusion works like it does at Nobu--Peruvian-Japanese--it is nothing short of brilliant.

In typical Japanese sushi bar fashion, the best way to experience the entrees is to order omakase (omakase means trust in Japanese), entrusting your taste buds to the chef. The dishes are designed to come out from cold to hot with a sushi sampler arriving last followed by dessert. My favorites are: black cod with miso, yellowtail with jalapeno, rock shrimp tempura with ponzu (the creamy spicy sauce lacks kick), wagyu beef, Arctic charr with crispy baby spinach, and the new sashimi salad. For dessert, I am partial to the coconut jasmine bombe (jasmine ice cream and coconut sorbet); Bento Box which is a warm chocolate souffle cake with shiso syrup, white chocolate sauce, and green tea ice cream; and the Sapporo beer ice cream parfait (to my surprise, I like this, beer flavor runs throughout).

If you like sake, you will be pleased as punch. They have some excellent special ones. Moreover, they arrive in a bamboo carafe, which is a lovely touch. No complaints about the cocktails, and I have tried the grand majority of them. I love the mango martini which uses freshly pureed mango along with red shiso. The pear, lychee, and cucumber martinis are also spot-on. I ask for the fig martini with extra fig and easy on the lychee, and it comes out delightfully, well, figgy. They also make drinks with Peruvian pisco which is very cool.

As for service, it is impeccable. The servers are courteous, discreet, and nothing but smiles. I never feel rushed and they do not act like idiots when celebrities or VIPs enter the premises.

Nobu
105 Hudson St.
New York City, NY 10013
(212) 219-0500
http://www.noburestaurants.com/newyork/index.html

Nobu Next Door
The concept of Nobu Next Door is a bit puzzling. Some say it is the poorman's Nobu, but unless I am missing something (like a secret menu), the prices are about the same. If it is about finding a place for the rejects from the flagship Nobu (which is next door), this, too, is hardly crushing, as you might find that fellow rejects include some interesting company, like Charlie Rose, Sting, and Sean Penn. I saw all three on three different occasions and they did not exude any loser vibe. Thus, this is what I have come up with: Nobu Next Door, with its take no reservations policy (unless you are a party of 6+), is like a bar annex. When you come to a restaurant and it is full, often you can be seated at the bar and order from the full menu. That is what Nobu Next Door is analogous to--a bar from which you can order from the full menu with a wait that depends on how packed the place is. It just happens to be a whole separate restaurant with a slightly different decor, much less polished, bit warmer, more accessible and user-friendly.

As for food, I like what I like from the flagship Nobu, so please scroll back up. There are a few items that are missing from the Nobu menu, but the famous yellowtail with jalapeno, etc. are available. The service is similarly on-point, albeit delivered with less attentiveness (which is sometimes not a bad thing). I do prefer the decor of Nobu and just prefer it overall, but occasional, last minute dining decisions that bring me to Nobu Next Door are not going to make me pout.

Nobu Next Door
105 Hudson St.
New York City, NY 10013
(212) 334-4445

Matsuhisa
Included among the three Nobu restaurants I have frequented includes the original Matsuhisa on La Cienaga in Los Angeles. This one is important insofar as it is where Nobu launched his skyrocketing career. It is a modest establishment and, as far as ambience and aesthetics, a stark contrast to the flagship in NYC.

On the whole, I have few complaints, but I am seeing a subtle decline, which concerns me. Fish continues to be quite fresh and almost every time I have visited I have spied Nobu himself. Considering the size of the Nobu franchise, this is impressive and admirable, indeed. That said, I am not sure why, but my last visit was just so-so. A ho-hummer of an evening, I was bummed out due to not only a less than stellar meal, but the fact that, as stated from the outset, I view myself as a Nobu fan. It is great to think of the food at his restaurants as reliably good. Moreover, to see an Asian superstar in the culinary landscape gives me great pride. I am rooting for you, Nobu, but Matsuhisa as a restaurant needs to be refurbished, pronto. With some exceptions (toro with caviar, new style sashimi), the food was not memorable. The dishes lacked punch and the zest of meals of yesteryear. Ponzu drowned my cut of albacore and they need to go easier on the rice. Nonetheless, I am sure I will return. Nobu has created an inescapable empire. Thus, my suggestion is revamp the place and erect a marble bust of the emperor so that foodies can pay a pilgrimage when they flock to the grand re-opening.

Matsuhisa
129 N. La Cienaga Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
(310) 659-9639
http://www.nobumatsuhisa.com/

Imagawayaki: Say it Backwards and Forwards

2009-12-08T14:32:00.000-08:00

No, it is not a word like supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. Instead of being a tongue twister, imagawayaki, my friends, is a tongue teaser! Before we become broken Japanese records, let's get the pronunciation right. It is ee-ma-ga-wa-ya-kee. Now, holler that fifty times, backwards and forwards. Traditionally filled with sweet azuki beans, imagawayaki is a Japanese pastry made on aluminum cast irons, served piping hot right off the grill. It possesses the kind of sweetness that I favored while growing up. About the size of a large circular coaster, there is nothing like enjoying a hot, bulging disk of imagawayaki while you walk the streets of Tokyo.

Mitsuru Cafe
How I love Japanese street food... especially imagawayaki, which Mitsuru is rolling in. Everything is freshly made with a store front window providing around-the-clock voyeurism. If you have not had imagawayaki yet, run, do not stroll to Mitsuru (except Monday since they are closed). About the size of the palm of your hand, sweet red azuki beans are encased in a pancake-like batter. If you are familiar with Korean bungeo-bbang (red bean cakes in the shape of a fish), it is really similar in concept and flavor.

They specialize in imagawayaki here and you can really tell with one bite. The texture is just perfect. Not too sweet, whole red bean filler mixed with just the right amount of crushed red bean paste oozing out with warm, gooey, chewy resistance.

They also have takoyaki, yakitori, shumai, onigiri, and mitarashi dango. All of these finger foods are tasty, but not exceptional-tasting, in my opinion. Don't get me wrong, they are all good and I will eat everything happily. I am just craaazzzyyy about the imagawayaki (said like Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly when she singsongs, "craaazzzyyy about Tiffany's").

Mitsuru Cafe
117 Japanese Village Plaza Mall
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 613-1028

Fulfilled
Fulfilled is the brain child of Susumu Tsuchihashi, a hands-on Japanese entrepreneur in his early 30s. He brought his version of imagawayaki to the streets of Beverly Hills. To my dismay, it is currently closed, but their website is still up with a "Latest Updates" section, which in turn, suggests to me that they might be back. I am a realist-optimist. They should come back, but at a different zip code. The previous 90210 street was not heavy on leg traffic, even for L.A. standards, and I do not even want to think about the rent. To think of how many of those $3-$4 mini fat frisbees one would have to sell to break even? At any rate, my crystal ball says that they will be back. Allow me to give you a preview if you have not yet experienced his fantastic fusion pastries.

As indicated in my introductory paragraph, imagawayaki are traditionally filled with sweet azuki beans. For the record, I am quite "fulfilled" with simply the traditional stuffing. :) That said, I am open, especially when it works for me. And, oh boy, Susumu's version of imagawayaki ("ima" for short) works for me plenty, and pretty much reeled me in hook, line, and sinker. With fun, inventive names, you can expand your horizons of the sweet ima with the Harajuku Monkey--banana and Nutella--which is solidly tasty. How do you mess up Nutella though? Strawberry fans, try the Karaoke Kitty--strawberries, cream cheese, Ghiradelli white chocolate. I asked for it with heavy on the strawberries and light on the cream cheese and it was delicious. Another sweet ima that I like is the Honey Yakuza (don't you just love these names?), which is a fetching combination of goat cheese, figs, honey, walnut, and black pepper. The combination of goat cheese and figs works, which is not terribly surprising (brie with figs is fabulous). Moreover, this combo is a nice segueway into Fulfilled's other offering of savory imas.

Savory imas are filled with even more non-traditional ingredients. Items such as chicken apple sausage, prosciutto di parma, smoked ham, chili, cilantro, and an array of gourmet cheeses. My favorite is the Green Ninja--spinach, feta cheese, sundried tomato--which essentially tastes like a Greek crepe, but with a thicker batter pancake enclosure. You guessed it, I used to hit this shop and kill two birds with one stone: a savory ima for lunch and a sweet ima for dessert. What? I like to save time.

On my last visit, I ate about three or four imas, which I washed down with their special drink, Lil Misa's Tea, a blend of green tea, honey, azuki beans, and shichimi togarashi. The addition of Japanese pepper sounds nutty, and you can forego it if you wish. I went with it from Day One at the suggestion of Susumu and cannot imagine it without it now. It gives the beverage an eye-opening sting of spice that is weirdly addictive.

I cannot wait for Fulfilled's comeback because I never got a chance to try their ichigo daifuku, a Japanese dessert, that I love, particularly due to my adoration of strawberries (ichigo). It comprises of strawberries and azuki beans wrapped with mochi. I have made a traditional version myself with good results, but again, at Fulfilled, they offer a non-traditional version coupling or substituting azuki beans with Nutella. Okay, that is genius. Full stop.

http://www.fulfilledpastries.com/

Here is a recipe for ichigo daifuku in case you, too, would like to make it at home:

Ichigo Daifuku Recipe

Ingredients:
**1 cup of rice flour
**2/3 cup of water
**1/4 cup of sugar

(for filling
**1/3 cup or water, 1/2 cup of sugar, 1/4 cup of azuki bean powder
OR
**1/2 cup of pre-made azuki bean paste
**6 strawberries
**potato starch for dusting

Heat 1/3 cup of water and 1/2 cup of sugar in a pan. Add 1/4 cup of azuki bean powder in the pan and stir well. Set aside.

Wash strawberries and remove calyxes. Wrap a strawberry with about a spoonful of azuki bean paste and round to make a ball. Make 6 balls.

Put 2/3 cup of water and 1/4 cup of sugar in a bowl and mix well. Add rice flour in the bowl and mix well.

Put the bowl in microwave and heat the dough for two minutes. Stir the dough. Heat the dough in microwave until the dough rises/inflates. Stir the mochi quickly. Dust a flat pan with some potato starch. Also, dust hands with some potato starch. Remove the hot mochi from the bowl to the pan by hands. Divide the mochi into 6 pieces by hands. Make 6 flat and round mochi.
*Note: The mochi is hot and sticky, so be careful not to burn your hands.

Put a piece of strawberry and azuki bean filling on a mochi piece and wrap it with the mochi. Shape it into a round ball. Repeat the process to make 5 more balls.

*Makes 6 ichigo daifuku.

Jetting to Petrossian Paris for A Weekend Getaway

2009-12-07T14:30:00.000-08:00

A true delight through and through, my lunch that nearly segued into the dinner hour was one of the loveliest afternoons I have had all year. It was no accident that a) caviar was on the menu, b) French food was on the menu, c) it was in honor of my dear friend, who was not on the menu. :P

My friend had come back from Paris not too long ago. Not surprisingly, girlfriend was all wistful about Paris and wanted to return stat. Well, a lightbulb went off, and I decided to take her to this stylin' cafe for her birthday.

What is this business about it being a boutique and cafe? As a former wonderer, let me explain. They sell serious YUMMIES here. Chocolates and candies in adorable tins, truffles that you can cherry-pick and arrange into personalized gift boxes, Champagne, wine and cheeses, smoked sturgeon, Gravlax salmon, cans of foie gras, Petrossian jams, and rows and rows of Petrossian caviar! If you want to buy some primo edible gifts this season, this is the place.

Petrossian caviar, Gravlax salmon, smoked sturgeon

Petrossian chocolate pearls and candies in round tins

Petrossian jams and Champagne

truffles, truffles, truffles

After gawking at all the caviar and making a mental note to buy some truffles and Petrossian chocolate pearls for the road, we settled back into our lovely seat by the window. My friend had the bellini and I had a glass of Mumm-Napa Valley. Both were very nice. The Mumm-Napa Valley, in particular, was a winner--not too sweet, just this side of dry, and deliciously crisp. A great start.

To begin, I had the classic cold borscht and, my goodness, was this beautiful. Literally speaking, it was a looker with its raspberry hue flaunting a spiral of aromatic pureed dill. A dollop of sour cream rested in the center and chopped chives sprinkled on like confetti. And it tasted amazing. So refreshing and smooth, it single-handedly has made me curious about Ukrainian cooking.

My friend had the wild mushroom cappuccino which derives its name in part from the chosen serving dish: a large cappuccino mug. Adorable, but, oh my word, does it taste incredible. Deeply satisfying in the way only a great hearty soup can, just recalling this one is giving me the warm fuzzies (especially since my fingers are icicles at the moment). A thick hot soup of pureed mushrooms embellished with croutons and a layer of mushroom foam that tasted like real mushrooms, this is a must-have for shroom lovers. Simply heaven. Moreover, the juxtaposition of hot and cold soups was fantastic and a case of brilliant teamwork. Needless to say, we alternated until we polished those suckers good.

Next arrived the Napoleon Tartare: A trio of hand sliced steak tartare with a layer of caviar (you can order it without caviar, which is uber confusing to me, but roll whichever way you want, folks), some greens, and crostini on a rectangular platter.

Napoleon Tartare

Decadent and pure luxury in the mouth. Our server replenished the crostini at least 4x and I swear that tartare was possibly replenishing itself via caviar meiosis. It seriously took us forever to finish it. No complaints, I love weird science. :)

close-up of tartare sandwiching caviar

Finally, the piece de resistance arrived. Two massive plates of croque Madame. Two eggs sunny side up, generous slices of ham with gruyere on toasted brioche, some crisp salad and chips divided the rich portions. If you like croque Madame, a couple bites will send you. If you finish it, you should get a medal because they do not skimp with the ingredients here.

croque Madame

Wait, I'm not done! We shared two desserts. Arranged into layers, the vanilla panna cotta comprised of a light yet rich bottom of smooth-textured panna cotta fragranced subtly with real vanilla bean, a middle of fresh peaches, and a thick blanket of white peach espuma (foam).

It is important to use the extra long spoon they supply you with and dig and reach to enjoy this lovely meal capper with a bit of each layer on your spoon to procure the optimal effect: a squeal of delight with fobby clapping. :P To bring it full circle, we ended with Sicilian pistachio creme brulee that our server thoughtfully joined with a birthday candle for my dear friend. It was scrumptious, a great consistency with fine bits of chopped pistachio pervading it with nutty flavor.

As for decor, Petrossian is what I would call streamlined, understated elegance. Simple and clean in design, little details, like the pebble-textured menus matching the table tops, pepper the place with chic distinction. The service was remarkably kind. Not only extra this and that, but they allowed us to stay and finish our meal even though they were cleaning and getting ready to close. About thirty extra minutes! Goodness, how thoughtful of them... and err... rather impolite of us (eep!). Although we weren't in Paris, for that afternoon, with the help of a superbly friendly staff, we indulged in the good life of our Parisian counterparts at a most leisurely pace. Now at the drop of a hat, I will jet to Petrossian when I yearn for a weekend getaway.

See you soon, Petrossian!

Petrossian Boutique and Restaurant

321 N. Robertson Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90048

(310) 271-6300

http://www.petrossian.com/