Andrew Smells

How Do You Describe A Smell?

2014-12-05T11:06:00.000+00:00

One of the things that fascinates me about the fragrance community is how everyone describes how something smells. Combining this with my obsession with language I wanted to make a post about how people describe fragrances and how effective the methods are.

We are going to get a little bit philosophical now, hold on to your hats (or pipes)...

The Treachery of Images

The above picture says "This is not a pipe"

It is a picture of a pipe.

The artist famously said in response to those who said it is a pipe "Could you stuff my pipe? No, it's just a representation."

And that's what I'm doing here, creating representations of an experience.

Nothing can replace the direct experience of a scent yet that is what I attempt to do through writing about fragrance.

There's a few ways I have noticed to write about perfume -

Listing the Notes

This is the driest form of writing, it does not add to the experience but may be useful if someone wants to know the composition. It's the equivalent of saying "This carbonara contains cream, egg, garlic."

Verbs

"It opens with a large burst of citrus and pepper that wriggle around each other, oscillating between sharp lemons and paprika before slinking into the body of the scent after a half hour"

Writing like this describes the notes, in this case lemon and pepper, but gives them life and allows a more vivid imagining to be created by the reader.

Metaphor

To take this style to it's next natural step is to develop a metaphor; that means describing the scent by talking about something else.

One easy way to generate a metaphor about something is to ask what kind of person that thing would be.

I like it when smells are described through metaphor and include movement and space. It helps me better imagine something and also to remember it. A lot of the time it is amusing to hear people's metaphors too.

Here's an example -

"The lemon leaps to the foreground like a bold knight gleaming on his horse and begins to duel the peppery dragon as the two clash and erupt letting furls of sparkling lemon and dark peppery dust fall to the floor around them."

Now is there really a lemon knight and a pepper dragon? No, but in describing this scene you now understand that the lemon and pepper are against each other rather than harmonious and that they battle over centre stage for the place of most prominent note.

Hopefully you see my point? Metaphor can help describe direct experience.

If I can create such imagery from the smell then I think in the details of the metaphor I will be better able to convey the nuances of a fragrance.
Also I find it fun!

Objects

Sometimes a smell is like a known object. Familiar and common objects obviously work best, for example a supple leather handbag, a freshly squeezed lemon, roasted coffee beans, or a bottle of rum, rather than "My friend's jumper"

Memories

Our sense of smell is the most evocative sense; it can transport us immediately through our past in our minds to a remembered time and place.
Universal experience is easy to reference and relate to, for example-

"It smells like walking through a forest after it has rained"

I think we have all walked through a forest in the rain. But sometimes it can remind me of something very specific to my own past like-

"It smells like the kitchen when mother made soup in winter"

These can be harder to translate to the reader who did not have the same "mother soup" experience as I did. However they do allow me to share something more intimate and personal from my past and I often like reading people's unique scent memories.

Comparison and Scales

Comparison to other scents can also be used but is only useful if the person reading it had smelt the other scents! So in one review I talked about leather on a scale and mentioned other fragrances to help people gauge how "leathery" the smell was.
If people don't know the other scents then the scale is harder to imagine. However to describe it without using other frags as comparison can also work, by simply saying things like "lighter end of the leather spectrum" and you get some idea of where it would be.

Subjective Judgments

It smells great, wonderful, brilliant, or it smells terrible, vile, disgusting.
Whilst such words can certainly convey your own judgement on the fragrance and may encourage or discourage others to smell it they tell us little about the scent itself other than your reaction. Nothing wrong with this, I regularly exclaim how much I enjoy a fragrance, it helps add personality to the review and lets people know what you actually think about the smell.

Situation or Context

Office friendly, date-night, hot summer daytime.
These categories already exist for many people and will come with many associations, it can help categorise the scent in your mind if someone says it is a wedding day fragrance as opposed to a rainy-day at home one. Again, my "rainy-day" scent could be your "wedding day" (I hope it doesn't rain on your wedding)

Abstractions

"Expensive, cheap, powerful, confident, reserved, sexy, mature."
These can be tricky because what smells "confident and sexy" to one person may smell "cheap and lacking" to another.

Putting it all together

I asked some people to describe "Fragrance X" and this was their response-

"A very powdery, sweet lipsticky scent...classy"

"Iris, lipstick note, with traces of cocoa. it turns powdery but still smells sexy. black tie or date fragrance."

"The floral sobriety of iris paired with the deep, sensual accords of cocoa, leather, and lavender. A modernist take on old-fashioned masculine fragrance."

Can you recognise the different styles of description?
They are all effective at giving some idea of the fragrance, once you know the scent the brief first one is sufficient and accurate, the second one gives situational examples and a context to it whilst the final one combines multiple methods to convey the scent as a whole.

-Fragrance X is Dior Homme and if you know it, how would you describe it?

But...That pipe picture at the start... If nothing can replace simply smelling something, why bother?

Despair not, friend!

There is a greater purpose to this, in fact - many purposes.

Many Porpoises

- For me, it is a form of expression, I find that through discussing the scent in a review or with someone that I can better appreciate it and give it more form in my mind as well as discover new perspectives and understandings through such exploration.

- A knowledgeable description of a scent can enhance my experience of it. I first found this out when The Smelly Vagabond had me sniff something, then he talked about the notes. When I re-sniffed it it was like a totally different fragrance! I could better identify the pieces he told me to look for.

- You can get accurate descriptions of a scent that really resonate and make sense. I know this because when I read an online review and start nodding my head or a fragrance buddy will describe it in such a way that I go "Ooooh yeah!".

- The act of sharing such descriptions with others is enjoyable, by putting our individual experiences into form and sharing them with each other we are connecting more and I think that's a worthwhile endeavour.

I hope you have enjoyed this philosophical expedition, thanks for reading.

Josh Asks - Whose nose is more important, yours or your partner's?

2014-11-20T12:40:00.001+00:00

Josh doesn't "do" perfume.

He wears Tom Ford For Men because his girlfriend's mum bought it for him.

However one evening in the pub he started asking some great questions so I started a feature called "Josh Asks..."

The full question is -

Whose nose is more important, yours or your partner's?

This question came up after I gave Josh a sample of Frapin "1270" and whilst he liked it he remarked that his partner did not. I think this topic is important, it ties in with finding your own fragrance identity and not being influenced by others in such a pursuit. However, as with all things, it is not always that simple.

I'm splitting this answer into three sections because I love lists and compartmentalisation-

1. Wearing what you like, for you.
2. Not purposefully upsetting others.
3. Association can improve a smell.

1. Wearing what you like, for you.

I wear fragrance that I like, I do not wear fragrance for other people.
To elaborate on this, I would not want to receive a fragrance as a gift, something that a friend has liked and picked out thinking I would like it because most likely I would not.
I think choosing and finding a fragrance is a very personal process that is a solo pursuit, perhaps helped by a knowledgeable guide.

Notice how this is the opposite to Josh's process where he was given a fragrance as a present and wears that, however for me I am more invested in fragrance as a hobby so put more weight into the selection of something I want to own and wear.
So if someone got me a fragrance that they loved but I did not I would not wear it simply to please them, I think such an action is not being authentic or true to yourself,

2. Not purposefully upsetting others.

So after I have found a fragrance that I love and want to wear all the time if I come across someone who dislikes it that's fine, it is expected. But if someone says it gives them a headache or my colleagues at work say it makes them want to be sick, well then I don't think I would wear that one again, especially in that situation.

To bring the point back to Josh's example perhaps something in 1270 was very off-putting for his partner, in which case he would knowingly be upsetting her by wearing it.
I don't imagine there are many fragrances that fulfil this criteria but I can think of some that are either over-bearing or have a nasty note that I wouldn't want to smell for prolonged periods.

3. Association can improve a smell.

Continuing using Josh as the guinea pig example, imagine that his partner is not repulsed to the fragrance but does not love it as she may another one. Well she is in luck, as my next story illustrates.
A lady friend who works in perfume (She shall be called D) recently married, we were talking about the associative power of fragrance and she explained to me that before she met her husband she did not think much of Terre D'Hermes.

Well guess where this story goes?

Now that she has been around him wearing it regularly she has associated that fragrance with him and in a strange olfactory feedback loop now likes Terre D'Hermes (And who doesn't? It's 4th best seller in France)

Leadenhall Market Book Display

What's the answer?

For me the overall theme is remaining true to yourself in what you buy and wear in the realm of smellies.
I believe this way your fragrance will be a true extension of your character and a more accurate expression of self and, as we see in the third point, people may end up liking it because it is what you wear.

Do Tastes Change?

2014-10-08T11:18:00.000+01:00

I spoke to Rob Armstrong (Youtube Reviewer) about whether tastes change over time, particularly as you get more into fragrance as a hobby. Below is the transcript, my words in bold.

So, you've been wearing fragrance for how many years Rob?

I have been wearing fragrances for exactly one year.

And you didn't wear aftershave or anything before this time?

When I was approximately 15 I had a bottle of Le Male as a gift, I also at the same time remember having L'eau D Issey but I am sure they ended up in a cupboard never to be worn after the novelty of dousing myself in Le Male had worn off !

So would you wear either of those frags today?

Yes I own both of them today
And yes i would an do wear them

Do you think your tastes have changed since becoming a "Frag-Head" (Fragrance enthusiast)?

Oh yes absolutely, in a year my taste has changed significantly from my first purchases a year ago.

OK, so you would still wear the two frags you wore when you were 15, but over the past year you've found that your taste has changed significantly, tell me more about that.

I always had fond memories of the only 2 fragrances I owned, so I suppose I was always destined to buy them again to see if they held up. But since my first purchases a year ago I bought a bottle of Acqua Di Gio and a bottle of Paco Rabanne Invictus after smelling a sample wipe in a men's magazine.

I though they smelled nice so I bought them. For the next few months I kept trying fragrances in a local department store and built a collection of bottles that I considered smelled nice.

At that point I did not have the experience to even identify what the fragrances I owned actually comprised of, then I found this facebook group and my eyes were opened to the fact that there were more fragrances available to the consumer than the standard department store fayre.

After months of trying a lot of fragrances my taste has changed whereby I now can identify the "DNA" of a fragrance and actually decide if I would want to smell like that.

There has been a lot of hit and misses along the way but I suppose I now have what I would call a preferred type of fragrance, although that is now possibly in the midst of change once again having recently discovered some new fragrances once again.

Cool, thanks for elaborating, that gives a good insight into the start of fragrance as a hobby.

Do you think that your tastes have evolved as you have learnt more about what you are smelling so that you now know more specifically what you like?

Yes I would say that. After gathering knowledge through the facebook group my appreciation for fragrances has evolved from a basic train of thought that "This smells nice." to a train of thought that says "This smells nice, what can I smell? Is it synthetic?" and "I would want to smell like this."

For example I went through a phase of buying and wearing fragrances just because I thought they were individual, so for some reason my mind used to say, "This is different, I should buy this." but now I am able to identify what I actually like.

OK, so tell me more about what you like in a fragrance now that you've been into it properly for a year.

The most important aspect is performance, I do like "bang for my buck". I like to be able to apply at the beginning of the day and still enjoy the fragrance at the end of the day. In terms of scent I do love very sweet or boozy scents, I think that profile suits my general personality although probably not my appearance! Although very recently I am enjoying the very masculine and classic scents alongside the classic type ADP colognes.

So do you think that your tastes could be different in a year or more time?

It's difficult to say, in the past few months I have had samples or decants of what I would say could be representative of the vast majority of styles of fragrances, I have tried Al Rehab oils to Roja Dove Amber oud and a lot in between, but on the other hand, I am sure there are many fragrances that I am yet to discover so never say never.

In terms of would I expect my taste to evolve? I would say probably not, I have moved out of my "comfort zone" on a few occasions when I have tried samples and have literally scrubbed them off, I cannot see myself venturing into oud oils etc. plus there is the element of only really wanting to own fragrances I will actually wear.

For example I wear fragrances for work mostly, I do not particularly have a very active social life etc, therefore to a certain extent, I suppose I want my fragrance collection to be in the realms of what could be regarded as "safe" albeit with my own little "flair"

I can understand that Rob. It's good to know what you like.
Thanks for your time today.

Cheers Andy! Thanks for the opportunity.

Have your tastes changed? Tell me in the comments.

Review - Frapin "L'Humaniste"

2014-08-30T11:48:00.000+01:00

Dam you.

Dam you short lived sensation.
Fading sunset.
Ephemeral beauty.
The subtle lure that longs for permanence but knows it's appeal lies in the very thing that makes my soul twist with anguish - low longevity. (Too dramatic?)

L'Humaniste

Longevity is how long a perfume lasts, how long you can still detect it for, and poor longevity is a major bugbear of mine, particularly considering the price of some of these niche fumes.

This one is a beaut, read reviews online and you see people marvelling at it's firework opening that leaves me grinning like a fool. It's meant to smell like a gin and tonic, Frapin make alcohol and now they make perfumes. A lot of their fragrances are fruity and boozy with fruity raisin and alcohol aromas.

L'Humaniste is boozy, but not heavy gourmand boozy; instead it's a glass of G&T with lime and ice in. Wonderfully crafted, smooth and soft to draw into the nose, the lime is not sharp or tart but sits comfortably around the other notes. It's a fantastic alternative to the usual orange and lemon colognes.

So why my frustration?

It lasts about 3 hours on me, then I cry because it's gone completely.

That's about half of the minimum lasting time I would like.
I know what you're going to say, "Why don't you invent some kind of elaborate machine that secretes the scent onto your skin throughout the day." and I would love such a machine, but alas I don't have one.

It's like being the first one at a house party, gleeful at the amount of alcohol only to overindulge and wake up with no recollection of the night, knowing you probably had a good time and wishing you could remember it more clearly but annoyed it was over too quickly.

From Frapin's Website

Not sure why there are a flower and petals in this photo because I don't detect anything like that. It's a head of zesty citrus and gin notes married to juniper berries with some pepper and cardamom spice to bolster it, which whilst they do add more oomph it isn't substantial enough for increasing longevity.

Oakmoss and tonka bean are listed as the base, these don't make for particularly durable bases. Long lasting bases are things like amber, vanilla, woods, those can anchor and cement the rest of the fragrance. But then I guess if Humaniste had any of these notes it wouldn't be the same smell, its light refreshing nature must accompany its short life span.

L'Humaniste goes in the same box as Penhaligon's Juniper Sling, another zesty light G&T offering which whilst enjoyable is also too short lived for me to be happy with. Juniper Sling is a bit sharper with a more prominent and "in your face" gin note.

Subtle and transparent but too difficult to detect without effort. Much like colognes of older times that would encourage re-application during hot weather, or be applied to towels that were carried with the person, L'Humaniste offers short-term refreshment and does so excellently.

Perhaps it is unfair to criticise a fragrance for something that is intrinsic to how it smells; you could not have the same scent with double longevity because it would not be the same scent, it is no fault of the perfume. It would be like complaining a cat cannot bark.

This fragrance will remain on my list of "fragrances I would buy except for one thing".
I'll spray it and love it, wondering why I ever thought badly of it, only to realise a couple of hours later when I can't even tell if I'm wearing it. It may be subject to the "Longevity Problem" which I will discuss in a future post, briefly the idea is that most people (myself included) are misjudging longevity because of nose numbness whereby you ignore a persistent scent.

The scent may still be there in some form after a few hours, it just remains very close to the skin and becomes what some people call a "Skin Scent" which has very little projection and is not noticeable. Personally I want to smell my fragrance and have a projection that doesn't require the smeller to have their nose on my wrist.

Sad face. It is a very good smell while it lasts though, and some people get more reasonable longevity from it. Overall it's certainly worth sampling just for the opening.

Have you tried it?
Did you find the opening as joyful as I did and how was longevity for you?

Josh Asks - What Deodorant Should You Use?

2014-08-19T12:45:00.000+01:00

Josh doesn't "do" perfume.

He wears Tom Ford For Men because his girlfriend's mum bought it for him.

However one evening in the pub he started asking some great questions so I started a feature called "Josh Asks..."

Today's question -

"With male deodorants nowadays being heavily scented how does that work with selecting your perfume?"

Short Story -

I use a discreet smelling deodorant so as not to interfere with my main fragrance.

Long Story-

I remember in my teens, just before we were wearing aftershaves and actual cologne, fragrant deodorant was the thing to wear. Specifically Lynx (Known as Axe in some countries), smelling Lynx Africa still takes me back to being 14 years old at school.

In a way it was a good introduction into choosing something purely for its fragrant benefit; it was affordable, readily available, and new ones were released regularly.

Then they started making shower gels, so not only could you have the deodorant of your choice but you could also have the matching shower gel, and therein began my first experience of layering.

Layering refers to applying different forms of the same fragrance. Back when I worked in Penhaligon's the full method we would show to customers began with shower gel/soap, then spraying the fragrance itself, then moisturiser, and then sometimes a dusting of talcum-like powder. Every one of these products smelt like the main fragrance you were buying.

What is the point of layering?

Clearly it is a good way to sell more product, to "up-sell" someone who just wanted the perfume, but there is a genuine utility to layering -

By applying moisturiser after applying your fragrance spray you significantly increase the longevity of the fragrance, in other words you smell good for longer. The best bit is that it doesn't have to be a special moisturiser, any kind will do.

What some people have even been doing is buying a fragrance-free one and then spraying in their own scents to create their own perfumed lotion. I didn't see the point of this because then you're stuck with one type of scented lotion and I didn't think it would be any different results-wise to a pre-scented one.

I do not own any scent-matching deodorant, I use one type and have done for over a year now. My main reason for using my current one (Sanex) is that it is only a deodorant, it is not an antiperspirant. This is because I don't think purposefully blocking up your sweat pores is a healthy thing to do and when I used to use antiperspirant it would cause yellow staining on my work shirts (Since switching I don't get these marks).

My other reason is that I want to avoid "scent clash" which is where my deodorant is fragrant to the point of obstructing or disrupting the main aftershave I am wearing.
Here is a picture to illustrate this point -

The white perfume cloud is obscured by the blue deodorant clouds.

That's why the deodorant I use is quite neutral smelling and discreet, so as not to interfere with my aftershave.

What about shower gels?

I have one perfumed expensive shower gel that I use occasionally and it makes the whole bathroom smell great but lasts on my skin for maybe twenty minutes so I do not recommend it as a long-term fragrance application method.

Conclusion

I loathe "shoulds", I think you should (!) find out for yourself what suits you best.

Generally the reasons for my choices are cost and utility; I want to spend money on smelling good for as long as possible and I don't think having a deodorant/shower gel to match every bottle of perfume is an effective way of doing this. It would cost too much to match every bottle I own and I don't think it is an efficient way of smelling like the chosen fragrance.

Even though I don't think shower gel is good for lasting fragrance I still use it sometimes simply because I like using it!

Do you layer your scents and if so, how effective is it?

Interview with Greg Frag-Head - Fragrances For Special Occassions

2014-08-10T13:44:00.000+01:00

I love the community around fragrance and wanted to add more interaction to my blog posts rather than just a review or my opinions.

I was chatting to a man called Greg "Frag-Head" online and realised that what we were discussing could make decent material for a blog post with a different format than the usual reviews.

This topic is about having different fragrances for different times, for example a "night-out" fragrance.
Below is the transcript from our conversation.
My words are in bold, Greg is italics.

---

Morning Greg. Let's start with a quick introduction and your SOTD (Scent of The Day).

Morning Andy. So I'm Greg a 38 year old happily married father to 2 little girls. I am a massive fragrance fan and geek and always have been as far back as I can remember.

I am very active in the Fragrance Community, both on Facebook where I am Co Admin on the Facebook group ‘Fragrance Sale/Swap/Split UK’ and I have a fragrance related YouTube channel (‘greggieboy76’) where I do reviews and other types of videos, aimed at helping people narrow their search or find new and exciting things to try.

SOTD today is Lalique White!

Excellent, thanks for that Greg.
Lalique White is on my sniff list, how would you describe it?

It’s a really "under the radar" fragrance, but very high quality. It is a very fresh Citrus Aromatic fragrance with a very distinctive Tamarind note. The dominant notes (other than the Tamarind) are Lemon Leaf, Bergamot and White Pepper.

It has a very interesting Pencil Shavings smell at stages.

(Greg's video review of Lalique White is available here)

Now the topic for this talk is "Special Occassion Frags" which is the idea that you reserve some fragrances to be used only at certain events. I believe we have differing opinions on this and hope to share our beliefs to learn more about it.
So to start the ball rolling, is Lalique White a "special occassion" frag?

No, Lalique white is a 'throw it on' frag, that I will reach for if I want something to just last a few hours in a casual setting, like going to the shops or just sitting around at home.

Excellent, so could you tell me how you would classify your frags in this way?

It's not something that I really do consciously it’s more an automatic or subconscious thing. I have fragrances that I consider ‘Best’ in the same way that I have clothes and jewellery that I consider best.

I wouldn’t wear a Rolex to the gym, I wouldn’t wear a Tuxedo to do my gardening and I wouldn’t wear Roja Dove Amber Aoud to go to the corner shop for Milk.

Essentially, I think it is always good in all walks of life, to keep things that we consider to be 'Special' and treat them as such.

If everything was 'Everyday' there would be no excitement or aspiration!

I know exactly what you mean Greg and I think many readers can also relate. I, however, love wearing my rolex and tuxedo when I mow the lawn.

So, what would happen if you wore a "Best" frag every day?

I think over exposure to things does make them less special. I actually limit the use of some fragrances, because I like them so much and am afraid of over using and not liking them so much anymore. The sad rationale of a Frag Head I guess.

Makes sense to me Greg.

Cat Pause

What makes a special occassion frag?

I think it's totally subjective, but for me 'Special' usually just means the ones that I personally like most. That in turn usually means that they are quite complex, well blended and differ in some way from the majority of fragrances out there.

Now Greg, here's my flipside argument. I think if you put your favourites in a category that is rarely used then it's a real shame. For me I like to find a frag I love, and wear it to death!
By your system, how often would you wear a best frag?

I completely understand your view point, but my way of thinking goes back to what I said before - ‘Special’ is ‘Special’.

If you wear it all the time, how long before it ceases to be special and just becomes ‘Normal’ or ‘Ordinary’? I suspect not long.

We are here for quite a long time, so I have no issues in wearing my favourites relatively infrequently, it makes me look forward to them in the same way that I look forward to going out to a great restaurant. If I went to that restaurant every night, it would just become ‘Normal’ and not ‘Special’

I remember Dave Stewart from Eurythmics had a disorder, called 'Contentment syndrome' or something like that. Basically it was due to the fact he had enough money to do anything and everything and the result wasthat nothing excited him any more and he ended up doing nothing at all!

I think we have to keep some things as rare and special.

Haha they have a name for everything these days!

I find that through appreciation and gratitude the things I use regularly can remain special, so when I wear a fragrance I love regularly it actually increases my enjoyment of that frag.

Occasional breaks from wearing one frag constantly is also useful, then when I return to it I remember how good it is.

Cat Pause

Do you think that someone else would be able to tell whether the frag you have on is a "Best" or "every day"one?

That's a really good question, I would say that it most cases 'No' but with something really High-End like a Roja Parfums fragrance, it's pretty hard not to appreciate that it is high quality/special!

Have you ever worn something to the point of getting bored of it?

I have several times. Back in the days when used to only have 1 or 2 fragrances, I got fed up of some pretty quickly, but that is my nature to get bored quickly. Ralph Lauren Romance, Cerutti Image, Bvlgari Blv, all got ditched for this reason.

And did you go back to them?

I haven't yet, but it would be interesting to see what I think now.

I think it could be!

Cat Pause

What do you think to the idea of having just one frag for life?

That puts the fear of god in me. It's like being told I can only drink water for life or never eat chocoate again!!

Haha what a great response!
Greg, it's been great talking to you today and hopefully people have a better insight into how you wear frags for different occasions. Thanks for your time.

Thanks Andy, it's been a pleasure!!

---

If you are interested in discussing a topic in a similar format then please get in touch, it all starts with a question or theme and develops from there.

Do you save some perfumes for special occasions or do you wear whatever, whenever? Let me know by commenting below.

Review - Bottega Veneta "Pour Homme"

2014-08-08T10:35:00.000+01:00

Distinct

I find there are broadly two types of perfume composition, blended or distinct. The distinct style has obvious and distinctly detectable notes throughout the dry-down whereas the blended one can have lots of notes but they are less discernible as individual pieces. Instead they give a merged quality throughout.

Blended

If you imagine an equaliser for smells (instead of sound) that shows the notes from lighter top ones on the left to the thicker bases on the right then Bottega Veneta would be fairly flat, all notes detectable for most of the scent and then they slowly melt apart at different times. Flat is not a bad thing though; think of flat as meaning rounded or smoothed - a good composition.

Bottega Veneta (Or "Potato Vienetta" as someone jokingly called it) produce leather goods, is this a leather scent?

Not explicitly, it's mostly waxy/balmy pine and foggy forests like you'd squeezed a pine branch and sniffed your hand while standing in a mossy, fog-thick expanse in the mountains.

There's a pinch of leather, as much as there is on the bottle which is a tiny leather collar, and it does add to the overall scent. It is soft, supple, almost suede like, creating a very smooth and delicate leather note that anchors the rest of the fragrance, weaving amongst the greener notes preventing them from being overly bright.

The smell is surprisingly heady for something with green notes such as pine and birch fir. The headiness implies a dark mysterious quality, like a shrouded figure. At times it appears green but then that greenness is enveloped by the foggy suede tones that results in a suffocated green medley that I find intriguing.

Source

I describe it as fuzzy and blurred because the scent is very much a cloud, I imagine a grey smog if it was to take a tangible form, but not a choking smog. More like a shroud of scent that wraps around the wearer like a cloak, staying close enough to please those that brush past without screaming it's presence.

So for that reason this scent is a perfect office scent, discreet yet present, like well polished shoes that draw the eye this fragrance adds a soft surround to the wearer that exudes a comfortable warmth.

Some perfumes are designed with very distinct notes or development stages but this one is less distinct; within a few minutes it has settled into the grey warmth that continues to varying degrees for the remainder of it's lifespan. People have had varying results with longevity with this one, the majority say it is low, however I can still smell it after eight hours, albeit significantly diminished in presence.

Look at this bottle, it matches the scent perfectly. That total smoothed, rounded, grey mass with the slight lettering in a barely perceptible white font on grey surround.

It's pleasant, it's comfortable, it's easy to wear and I find it suitable for all weathers although I would say it is most suited for Autumn. A very versatile scent, wearable to work during the day and just as appropriate continuing on to a dinner or evening drinks.

It's a good "dowser"; one that I like to do lots of sprays to chest and clothing, completely covering myself in it. Partly because the spray only gives out a little spritz and also to improve the longevity I'll get it on some fabric.

Bottega Veneta Pour Homme garnered the Basenotes Readers Award 2014 and after using it for a few months it is easy to see why. It's a good quality mainstream men's frag that is very likeable.

Have you tried this, and if so what did you think?

Bonus Comment -

The original Bottega Veneta Parfum for women is also excellent and easily wearable by men. Less peppery, less piney, more leathery, quality frag.

Josh Asks - Does Consumption Influence Perfume Development?

2014-08-02T19:28:00.000+01:00

Josh doesn't "do" perfume.

He wears Tom Ford For Men because his girlfriend's mum bought it for him.

However one evening in the pub he started asking some great questions so I started a feature called "Josh Asks..."

Josh's full question is

"What impact does the way fragrances are bought have on how they're developed? There is a nose bamboozling mix of smells in shops so surely brands are trying to make a big impact on that first sniff, does that impact overall quality?"

Short answer - Yes, you can design something just to sell.

Long answer-

I use the analogy of film; there are "summer blockbusters" and likewise I believe some fragrances are made simply to sell. In film terms, a terrible film can do well at the cinema.

But wait a minute... Surely if it sells a lot it cannot be terrible?

Agreed, people may enjoy these summer blockbusters and best selling fragrances.

However, my point with this article is-

Companies can influence consumption in the same way you alter the bait when fishing.

If you spend enough money on marketing and promotions you will get bums on seats in the cinema.

Likewise, pump in enough cash into fragrance advertising and you'll get noses on bottles (I think that's the equivalent).

Other examples of influencing consumption-

Jumping on a current trend bandwagon
It only smells nice in the first few minutes (When you are in the shop)
Brand or celebrity endorsement
Bottle design
Free gift with purchase
Time limited promotions/discounts
Exclusivity through availability or price

Anything that detracts from you judging it based on how it smells on you, over time.

Distracted by bright lights and noises, the average consumer is drawn to the hyped and exaggerated latest release or simply the one that everyone else is buying.

A sales assistant told me that someone came in and asked for six bottles of the most popular fragrance without even smelling it.

Now onto the other bit of Josh's question, the "bamboozling mix of smells"

Josh uses the word bamboozle and I think it is appropriate because it is easy to become confused when faced with over stimulation of the senses and too much choice.

Imagine you are in a store, you have 20 minutes to choose a fragrance, and you have already sniffed 5 as the assistant hands you a few more.

You are only getting hits of the extreme starts of fragrances (top notes). They haven't had time to develop properly, as well as your nose being fatigued from smelling so much, making it harder to judge properly.

Add to this the environment which will probably be a room that is already thick with perfume, further masking what you are smelling.

I don't go clubbing/drinking much (surprise!) but when I do I am reminded of the peacock effect. They are designed to draw attention, whether it is the eye or the nose, and use a variety of tricks to do so.

In fragrance terms this means some smells are engineered to have impact in the first few minutes and then fizzle away, knowing that you may make a decision based on those first few minutes.

Do all fragrances do this?

Are the fragrances that do this bad?

Not necessarily.

What's your point then?

Be aware that you might be sniffing something that is designed purely to sell product rather than delight your nose.

How can I help myself?

Be patient and thorough. Allow your nose time to breathe and give the fragrance time to develop on you.

Relax :)

"Hang on a minute mate, I just want to buy some perfume, not spend two days researching and deliberating."
Well, whatever you do is fine, there is no right and wrong with this. This article aims only to raise awareness to avoid disappointment.

Hopefully you are now more informed and aware of the things affecting your decision process for the future. Then, rather than finding one that you like that smells okay, you can find one that you absolutely love that makes you smile eagerly when you spray it and remains with you through the day.

Are you being bamboozled?

Review - Dior "Eau Sauvage Extreme"

2014-07-24T13:01:00.004+01:00

You smell like my grandad.

Is that a compliment?

Yeah, he always smelt good.

I think that comment perfectly summarises ESX and I could do this as a brief review, however that doesn't really give you an idea of what the scent is like, so I shall continue.

It's musty, has some zesty citrus quality to it but predominantly quite a dry moss/wood/herb smell. This thing is potent, I mean 8 hours plus on the longevity, it's in the top end of my most potent fragrances. It doesn't have enormous projection however, which I see as a benefit; it lasts a long time and stays reasonably close to the body.

There's an odd note or two in here, a bit of funk, a little dash of something that gets up your nose like grit in a sandwich. That unexpected crunch that jolts you awake, it's Clint Eastwood grinding his teeth and squinting at the sun. I've spoken before in my review on M about how a bit of bad can smell good, and that's what I think happens here.

The composition is varied and dense. There are a lot of notes, mostly herby florals, botanical smelling pieces. Lavendar and moss are classic 80's men's fragrance notes. Look at all these notes-

Source

Lavendar, Rosemary, Bay Leaf, Coriander. You could probably use it to cook with.

They are incredibly dense, as if you took a load of cuttings from the herb garden, threw in some oakmoss to make everything quite dry and dusty with a bit of wood too and put it in a trash compactor machine so it spat out a tiny cube that was barely recognisable but has a new form now.

Source

I am not saying the fragrance is garbage, far from it. This metaphor simply conveys how compacted the notes are together.

Online there are some haters but I think a lot of that comes from people wanting an extreme version of the original Eau Sauvage which this really isn't.

ESX is a lot darker in composition (Look at the bottle for a visual clue, like we saw with Fahrenheit 32) with substantial depth and substance whereas the original was much lighter and had only a few hours of life before vanishing.

There's a group of words I retain for certain fragrances of yesteryear, bearing in mind this is from 1984, and those words are suitable here - Mature, traditional, sophisticated, classic.

Maybe it's just these things because it's old, a good example of a typical 80's fragrance. A colleague said it "Just smelt like aftershave".

It has taken me a long time to appreciate ESX, you could say we have had our ups and downs. I bought a bottle fairly quickly but every so often I would wear it and think it boring, simple and dull generic aftershave, or too much going on.

That was my main complaint - it was too busy. It wasn't until months passed that I started to appreciate the complexity and the power in this scent. Much like a song I overlook on an album only to listen to occasionally and suddenly "get it" on the 20th time at which point it becomes a firm favourite.

It's for a serious man, a wrinkle faced man. A chewing tobacco in the office kind of man, perhaps a private detective who rolls his sleeves up and gets his shoes muddy.

Is the scent relevant today?

No, I don't think it would be released today.
But I do think it is worthy of a place on the wall of classics.

Even after singing it's praises I do find the scent dated and I wear it more for personal intrigue.

As one might don a wig and flares to go to an 80's disco, in a similar fashion I reach for Eau Sauvage Extreme and wonder whether anyone on the train to work will appreciate it's classic 80's qualities, or simply be reminded of their grandfather...

Bonus comment-
This thing has a magnetic lid and that makes me happy; it's really satisfying to play with.

Wall of Scent - An Afternoon with Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays

2014-07-22T19:25:00.001+01:00

I recently attended "The Wall of Scent" hosted by Sarah McCartney who runs 4160 Tuesdays, a British perfumery based in London.

On this day you spend time sniffing a variety of scents from Sarah McCartney's collection as she educates your nose.

Some of them are originals that you can no longer buy (Vintage Chanel), some are hard to find, and some are easy to find (Justin Bieber. No joke.)

So much to smell!

There is a method to the madness with which Sarah whips out bottles, sprays with vigour, and passes around paper strips to the eager group of attendees.

Explaining the history and detail of each scent, whether it is to do with the ingredients, regulations, the perfumer who designed it, or Sarah's own "discovery story", they are all worthwhile and entertaining.

For example we learnt of one ingredient as it was given to us in isolation (ISO E Super), then an example of how it was first used, then how it was later adopted by many.

It was like hanging out in the kitchen of a skilled chef, getting to sample the goods as you're guided through time and genres of fragrance.

We were shown how the "same" perfume was different depending on whether you were smelling the 1960's original or the later reformed version where the contrast was shocking, and I guess a little sad because there was less "oomph" once it was changed (blame regulations and allergies!).

Potions and Papers

By the end of it my nose was pleasantly exhausted, satiated like after a feast, and then we each got to take home a bottle of our own choosing from Sarah's collection (Invisible Ben for me)

The atmosphere created was relaxed and informal yet much was explored and discovered about all things fragrant. Even the refreshments were an olfactory delight with blackcurrant and coffee cordial (Waitrose) and a surprisingly delicious gazpacho drink with tomatoes and strawberries (Cho).

What pleased me most was Sarah's evident passion for all things smelly, her enthusiasm is contagious and she encouraged us to think about the things we were smelling in new and often peculiar ways.

So whether you are a seasoned sniffer or a first-time fragrantist (made-up word) wanting to learn more about it I think spending some time with British perfumer Sarah McCartney is a welcoming, fun, and friendly experience that I recommend to all.

BONUS - Use the code "AndrewSmells" to get 15% Off the cost of the day AND a free 8ml bottle. As if you needed more of a reason to go. Code valid until 31/08/2014

Find out more at 4160 Tuesdays website here.

More photos!

Sniff Salute!

"Why I Don't Like Florals"

2014-07-20T10:39:00.000+01:00

I wrote an article for fellow perfume blogger "The Smelly Vagabond" after we were discussing florals.

You can read it on his blog here.

Review - L'Artisan Parfumeur "Dzing!"

2014-07-16T12:54:00.001+01:00

I love an odd scent, one that makes me pull my head back in surprise and say with wide eyes,

"Ooh, how strange!"

Made by Olivia Giacobetti, apparently she was given free reign with this and I guess this is what happens when a perfumer lets their hair down.

Before reading any further I encourage you to smell this yourself and form an opinion first before reading my interpretation so that your sniff isn't clouded by expectations.

The official description from L'Artisan Parfumeur reads-

...the scent of saddle leather as pretty girls on horses canter by, sawdust, the rosin on the acrobats’ hands as they arc through the air, black panther fur, fire-eaters and gasoline, the vintage canvas overhead, the caramel scent of candyfloss and toffee apples.

Here's the bottle-

And here's a close-up of the logo-

What a brilliant image!

I did not like this when I first smelt it 5 years ago, I now have a different opinion.

To me Dzing smells like fabric plasters with a slight antiseptic quality-

Dzing!

That's the odd thing about smells, your perception of them can change once someone tells you what it's supposed to be or what it reminds them of and suddenly you go "Oh, of course, how did I not notice it before!"

Another reviewer, "Perfumedmaze" writes-

Dzing says something gentler - it's more about hamsters sitting amongst the straw chewing an expensive leather handbag.

-Perfumedmaze's article is here and I recommend it as it explores Olivia's other work.

This description made me smile because whilst it is different to my sniff, once I imagined this little scene of hamsters chewing through an expensive leather handbag I realised it was spot on with the animalic funk, bit of leather, and straw, just like a circus. Now imagine the logo above but the woman is a tiny figure and she is riding a hamster.

But then this is what one reviewer described it as-

This may be absolutely one of the worst things I’ve smelled in a while.

-Kafkaesque

Isn't it incredible how polarised two responses can be?

For me that's a critical aspect of fragrance-

I do not seek a fragrance that all will like, I seek one that I love.

I also accept and expect others will disagree with my opinion, and isn't that a good thing?

Let us celebrate the differences!

Anyway, Dzing! is fun, if only for it's shock value.

Is it wearable? Well I think if you like it, you'll love it, and you'll want to wear it.

A good example of perfume creativity.

Review - Six Scents "M"

2014-07-11T23:10:00.000+01:00

The full title of this should be-

Six Scents - Series 3 - Number 6 - M by Ohne Titel and Yann Vasnier

Quite a mouthful.

I await the day that I wear M and am asked what aftershave I'm wearing, I'll probably just say M.

Here's a bit of spiel about the brand-

The new series from Six Scents perfume, Six Scents Series Three, brings together prominent perfumers and designers again, in order to provide an olfactory interpretation revolving around the main theme.

Each perfume is limited to 3000 copies, a percentage of sales going to charity organization War Child International.

Lovely.

Leather has a scale, over here on the left is the delicate and soft suede, moving along the line we have a larger but still quite soft leather jacket, then there's a dark oily biker jacket followed by heavily polished horse riding boots, to finally the crass and fierce raw leather hide of a recently deceased beast.

For an example of the latter please smell Dior's Cuir Cannage of the private range. Pure horse to my nose.

Cuir Cannage

Well where does M lie on the spectrum?

It's way over slinking about on the left side. It's sensually soft suede, the note that brings this is castoreum and I'll leave you to search up what that is, along with civet which is the companion note that combines to give this sultry filthy yet clear and distinct vibe that I get from this fragrance.

Also this one is a hilarious transformer, so whilst it is to the left on the leather scale it also has something from the more animalic right side.

It stays close to the body for the most part and adds a wondrous allure around the skin that begged me to hold my arm at awkward angles to my face for most of the day. The hilarity, however, comes from when it warms.

To demonstrate this, about 3 hours into wearing it I was told I smell nice, I then proceeded to heat my wrist briefly with my breath and then asked the person to have another sniff. They reeled back in surprise, that's not what they were smelling a second ago!

And therein lies the appeal for me. This silky minx of a ferret is all cuddly and playful and suddenly relieves itself in your lap, and it's hilarious. I reckon the skank nastiness from the animalic notes must contribute to the whole aroma; it smells great because a small part of it doesn't smell great, and isn't afraid to show it.

I imagine a woman in a skimpy outfit pulling off her heels in the late hours of a club somewhere and wandering home barefoot and sweaty from dancing all night, clutching a small leather purse.

Yet that's not to say this is a particularly feminine odour, I'd say easily wearable by both man and woman alike.

Review - 4160 Tuesdays "The Dark Heart of Old Havana"

2014-07-05T18:00:00.000+01:00

I like it but I wouldn't wear it regularly.

It's skanky sweet, filthy nasty. Yet it absolutely works.

I can totally see why it has divided opinion online, however it suffers from the expectation curse whereby people read "Havana" and wanted it to smell a certain way, thereby disregarding what it actually smells like.

And it actually smells like a dirty dusty alley with an old washer woman sitting on a wooden crate stirring a pot of boiling fruit with the peels piled by the side and dogs running around between her bare blackened feet.

Boiled Fruit - Sweet Stench

The camera pans back and upward and you see the depth and darkness of the winding alleys with seedy hatted men flicking ash from their fingers and coins into piles.

Dirty Old Streets - Dusty

I guess some would argue that you shouldn't have to explain a scent to appreciate it?
For me the explanation adds emphasis and detail to the construction.

Review - Dior "Fahrenheit 32"

2014-07-04T10:18:00.000+01:00

I wanted Fahrenheit, the (literal) father scent.

When I arrived at the Dior counter I saw numerous flankers and thought I might as well have a sniff of some, I could be pleasantly surprised. Most were guff. Nowhere as good as the original.

Then there was Fahrenheit 32. I immediately thought ugh, this is awful synthetic nonsense. I was after Fahrenheit and this couldn't be further from the stuff.

I bent the tester paper in half abruptly (my sign of dislike) and cast it to the shelf before walking away and hunting down the original Fahrenheit on eBay.

Why do they bother with flankers?

But that's obviously not where this story ends...

When I first smelled F32 I wanted Fahrenheit, I got the opposite and was unhappy.
However once I took my time with 32, had it on a paper strip on my desk, and let the tendrils of scent waft slowly to me throughout the afternoon whilst I researched it online, I finally understood.

Spot the Difference

This was never meant to be a flanker, this was a re-imagining. The polar opposite of the hot thick leather of the original. You only need to see the bottle to realise it is the inverse of that stark red design, instead being a snow capped peak.

Cool, airy, fresh-floral vanilla.

I know, I know. Those dreaded words uttered by every sales person wanting to sell you the new release or the most popular best seller... "It's fresh!"

But I don't know how else to describe it!
It's not citrus fresh like CK One or Eau Sauvage, it's not soapy fresh like Rive Gauche Pour Homme or Mugler's Cologne.

Imagine you have a thick creamy vanilla ice cream, then you aerate it to turn it into a much lighter mousse so it is less sickly sweet and more fluffy delicate vanilla.
Then throw that through a bright sunny sky and have it land in flecks over flower petals.
I managed to find two perfect photos to help explain-

Fluffy Vanilla

Orange Blossom Petals

But it's not floral. I wouldn't even call it gourmand just because it's vanilla. Even if the dry down is mostly that, there is enough of the orange blossom and ozonic qualities to differentiate it from a deep thick vanilla base.

I ask myself, how does something comprising supposedly of 3 elements, vanilla, vetiver, and orange blossom, smell so good? (There is a hint of mint in there too.)

It's a great alternative summer scent, and my favourite part is that it isn't particularly popular which means you won't smell like everyone else.

A truly beguiling scent that I almost overlooked. A testament to trying perfume with a clear mind as well as clear nose.

My father wore the original Fahrenheit, he was a grafter working all hours and it suited his character perfectly as he toiled and laboured.

F32 is gentle, delicate, and it compliments the original as well as being my preferred of the two. They needn't compete, however, as they are both quality stand alone releases.

This one also gets the coveted "Mother Hibberd" seal of approval, a rare award that is signified with a hug followed by "You smell nice".

Some may ascribe Fahrenheit 32 feminine qualities, but feminine is the new masculine, don't you know?

Review - Bvlgari "Black"

2014-07-03T19:49:00.000+01:00

Sometimes notes in a perfume strike out like rectangular speed bumps, very jarring and obvious. But if that bump is rounded, it fits within the composition in such a way as to say yes, this note is here, but blended smoothly to the whole.

Squash Ball

And that's what Black does.

It's a day of handling thick rubber tractor tyres, dusting off your hands, wiping your forehead and breathing in the slightly acrid aroma.

Michelin Man

What may sound almost repulsive seems to work incredibly well here. The rubber is not astringent, it remains on the palatable side but still is significant in it's odour. I could imagine them tweaking the intensity, going all the way from Michelin Man full-on rubber tyre suit to just squeezing a squash ball on your hand.

To me, Black is a bicycle tyre slung over the shoulder. Noticeable yet appealing, not overbearing, and sits well within the blend.

A wearable, well blended, rubber scent.

Now the note list would suggest that tea and vanilla amongst others are the next prominent notes however, if they are, they are woven so tight as to make them indistinguishable.

An admirable feat which helps round out the rubber and give what I describe as an emergent fragrance whereby the composition is greater than the sum of it's parts.

Eventually it settles into a predominantly vanilla accord, with remnants of the rubber.

The smell of rubber can really get up your nose and be off putting, somehow this fragrance captures the essence and removes the pungency.

It is very wearable and would suit the pursuer of far left field and alternative fragrances whilst not being obnoxious.

Bravo.

Perfectly suits the contents with a black "rubber tyre" surround

Review - 4160 Tuesdays "Invisible Ben"

2014-07-02T15:38:00.001+01:00

I know when I've found a good scent because of two things -

It makes me smile when I smell it
I keep sniffing my arm on the way home.

Although this fragrance was designed for the person who doesn't wear perfume I think it would be folly to ignore it on this basis. Is it safe? Yes, but not in the generic modern fragrance sense.

Whereas many new releases marketed toward men lean to a more broody character and are advertised as such, with men looking serious and forlorn, if I was to picture the representation of Ben it would be a man raising his glass to you whilst smiling and saying here's to you!

Assured yet not insisting, discreet enough yet beguiling once discovered.
If fragrance is a band this guy is second guitar, waving to the crowd, talking to you after the show.
And if fragrance is food, because Sarah likes a food analogy, Ben is the mushroom rice, flavourful and dependable sustenance.

First spray is a bright sherbet boozy slap on the back, a greeting with a glass of cognac where some spills over the edge during the embrace.
Then there's the ever present glow, a mix of the soft wood with the skin scent balsam. This rises like a sun on the horizon, gradually more present behind the top notes.

It's a dependable labrador of a fragrance that is gentle enough not to be noticed but once you do it's a pleasant revelation.

Invisible Ben is by Sarah McCartney who runs 4160 Tuesdays

Review - Comme des Garcons "Wonderoud"

2014-07-02T12:56:00.001+01:00

I got a sample of this from a lovely lady in House of Fraser-

The oud is shown here as the gold interlaced between the cracked wood.

If you liked Wonderwood, you will probably like this. I found them both a bit too harsh on the dry woods for my liking.

The original makes me cough, this one makes me cough slightly less. Scrubbed off after 20 minutes, "Oh!" you exclaim "That's not long enough to judge a fragrance!" and I agree. However, there are some notes I find painful and want to remove them asap. One of them is sharp dry woods, the other begins with "i" and is found in churches. And old-lady florals.

Wonderoud is softened/rounded by the oud which attempts to bring a degree of balance to an otherwise very one dimensional wood smell.

Recall the sweet, slightly medicinal, wood of Tom Ford's Oudwood and you can see how the two styles converge with this little fella.

The closest thing I have to this is Opus 1870 and that's about as woody as I would want to go, if you love your woods check out Monsieur by Huitieme Art.

An Introduction

2014-07-02T12:12:00.000+01:00

Welcome,

This blog intends to document my travels through the wonderful world of perfume.
Perfume has been a long standing interest of mine, from using dad's Opium and Fahrenheit, to wearing JPG Le Male at school, to buying my first Creed fragrance.

But now it's getting serious!

I'm part of groups that share the interest, I've been to perfume days, spent far too long in Libertys, Selfridges, etc. and now classify perfume as one of my hobbies.

For this reason I thought I would start this blog, it will be reviews, opinions, ramblings, anything with a perfume heart.
As with many things, I shall intend a structure and then watch over time as that structure un-structures itself.

Occasionally these posts will have a more philosophical bent where I think for too long about things that an ordinary person wouldn't bother with.

I hope you find the writings here entertaining and please feel free to chime in yourself.

Andy