Neonatal period: The pup is almost wholly under the care of the mother and the way she behaves with her pups will influence their behavior in later life. Remember, these first weeks of the pup’s life are its most important, that the earliest experiences it has will have a tremendous impact on the mind of the pup. There are no apparent maternal behavior centres in the brain and it seems that both genes and learning are involved. There are, however, variations in the quality of mothering and these will affect the behavior of her pups. Because the pup’s brain is still in such a formative state, the experiences it undergoes now will have a tremendous impact on the development of his or her mind. This is why the first 12 weeks of age are such a “critical period” in the pup’s life. Early handling – stressing – at this age is actually good for the emotional development of the dog and probably makes him better able to cope with stressors later on in life. Mild stresses early in life influence the adrenal-pituitary system, fine tuning it to respond in a sensitive and graded manner later on in life rather than in an all or nothing fashion. The question remains as to exactly what is the optimum amount of stress that a young pup should receive because it is also known that too much stress at an early age leads to subsequent retarded development. Mild stresses will accelerate body growth, reduce emotionality and possibly increase resistance to certain diseases.

Transitional period: This is when most of the pup’s sensory abilities come on stream. The pup’s world opens up and suddenly his littermates and the rest of his environment have a dramatic effect on his developing mind. First comes vision than hearing and balance and finally touch and pain. The transition period from 2 to 4 weeks of age is the beginning of the most important period in the young dog’s life. For the first time his senses are being stimulated and he will be forever influenced by the images that now form in his mind. How a dog behaves at any time in his life is a result to a constant and fluid interplay between his genetic potential and his environment. It is during the transition stage that many of the building blocks of the dog’s future behavior are laid down. What he experiences now will affect him for the rest of his life. No one knows exactly how it happens but as the pup leaves the transition period; he enters what will be the most important 8 weeks of his life, the time during which he learns to live with both his own kind and with us.

Socialization period: Any type of social relationship that a pup eventually develops begins as a problem and ends as a habit. These relationships are always adaptable and it is during the next 2 months that they are most malleable. During this time the severity that the mother uses in altering her relationship with her pups has a direct bearing on how the pups will ultimately behave with people. How a pup treats and is treated by his littermates during the next few weeks of his life is just as important for us too. During this time play becomes a big factor in the development of the dogs mind. Playful activity has a number of functions socially speaking there are three: play stimulates communal behavior; play affects and moulds adult social behavior; and play predicts the future dominance relationship within the pack. Play develops the pup’s mind because it leads him into different situations where he has to innovate a solution. During the socialization period, play is carried out for more than its own sake. It is a source of skill, information about littermates and it deflects natural aggression. It can also be used to advance the social status of a pup. Dogs that are isolated form other dogs during this period in their lives are often hyper aggressive towards other dogs. They haven’t learned how to inhibit this behavior. Pups that are denied play activity up to 12 weeks of age can develop bizarre behaviors including self-mutilation in order to reduce tension. They are poorer learners, have a greater fear of people, animals and noises, and are shyer and more antisocial. They will avoid stimuli and are reluctant to explore. In short they are canine misfits. Between 3 and 8 weeks of age, pups should be exposed to potentially fearful stimuli in the environment, kids, aerosol sprays, vacuum cleaners, vets, postmen, cats, street noises, and this sensitization should continue throughout the socialization period up to 12 weeks of and on into the juvenile period. Remember, this is the most sensitive period of a pup’s life. Dogs that don’t meet people until after the socialization period are antisocial, difficult to train and dingo like in their fight, flight and freeze behavior. Dogs that don’t meet other dogs during the socialization period are fearful, make poor mothers and are inhibited or over reactive when they meet other dogs.

From a veterinary viewpoint, a major conflict arises from this information for, as all dog owners know, standard medical advice dictates that pups should not meet other pups until at least 2 weeks after the final puppy vaccination which is given at 12 weeks of age. Some vaccine manufactures suggest as late as 20 weeks of age to finalize the parvovirus inoculation. But what happens to the pup’s developing mind if he is isolated for so long? The answer to this conundrum depends on what role you want your dog to play in your life. For dogs that will be forever human oriented, this medical advice can be safely followed. The consequence will be a human oriented and human attached dog, one that should be responsive to command and readily obedient to you but possible fearful or aggressive with other dogs. If you want your pet to be a dog oriented dog however, the standard medical advice is dangerous to follow.
The degree or intensity of play at this stage is also a portent of the future. Pups that are too playful aggressive during the socialization stage make difficult pets in the future. If there is any one rule to follow at this stage of a pup’s life, it is a simple one. Never, ever play fight, especially during the socialization period, with potentially aggressive and dominant dogs. Do not role on the ground and simulate fighting and do not play tug in an aggressive means. If you do you will be creating dramatic problems for the future.

Why was he acting this way? When the owner came to pick up the dog I asked a few questions and discovered that they played with a laser light. This definitely would explain the dog’s behavior. I have witnessed other dogs with the same behaviors and when I asked the owners if they played with their dog with a laser light each time the answer was “yes.”

It ‘s so cute to watch your puppy or dog chase the light and you may think your dog is having fun but after a while you will notice your dog chase light reflections from the windows of your home, or be fixated on your shadow when you take him for a walk, or stare at the ground as if he was waiting for some kind of movement. This behavior is no longer funny, cute or entertaining. Your dog may be suffering from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder and will need some intervention to cure his behavior.

• Quit playing with the laser light right away
• Talk to your Veterinarian about Obsessive Behaviors
• Find a dog psychologist or trainer who can help you understand Obsessive Compulsive Disorder and the behavioral modifications that will cure your dog
•  Whenever you start a game check your dog’s behaviors and ask your self if this game seems to make the dog behavior strange or unstable
•  Do your research and find games that are safe and fun for your dog
•  If you hire a dog trainer ask her or him what games are good for dogs
•  Don’t risk feeling guilty because you caused something detrimental to happen to your best friend.

What is Hip Dysplasia?

Hip dysplasia results from the abnormal development of the hip joint in the young dog. It may affect both hips and only one. It is brought about by the laxity of the muscles, connective tissue, and ligaments that should support the joint. Most dysplastic dogs are born with normal hips but due to genetics and possibly other factors, the soft tissues that surround the joint start to develop abnormally as the puppy grows. Dogs of all ages are subject to the symptoms of hip dysplasia and the resultant osteroarthritis. Puppies as young as five months will begin to show pain and discomfort during and after vigorous exercise. Some of the symptoms a puppy or dog can show are altered gate, resisting movements that require full extension or flexion of the rear legs. They may run with a “bunny hopping” gate. They will show signs of stiffness and pain in the rear legs after some activity. Some will limp and as the condition progresses the dogs will lose muscle tone.

Who gets hip dysplasia?

In dogs it is primarily a disease of large and giant breeds. Recently, I have seen it in smaller dogs such as, Jack Russell’s. It is primarily a disease of purebreds although it can happen in mixed breeds. German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Rottweillers, Great Danes, and St. Bernards appear to have a higher incidence of hip dysplasia. When you decide to choose one of these particular breeds it is a good idea to ask if the breeding pair have had a physical exam and radiographs. There are two different testing methods that can be performed. The traditional is OFA testing and the newer technique is the PennHip method. If the breeder says that they did not have their dogs examined and certified, and invents all types of excuses, don’t purchase puppies from that breeder. If the breeder says yes, ask to see the paper work on both dogs. Include in your questions if the breeder knew the breeding pairs parents and ask if they have been OFA or PennHip approved. If you can go three generations back with no hip dysplasia you are likely to purchase a puppy that will not get hip dysplasia. Most importantly, take your time purchasing your puppy. Research the breeders, ask your veterinarian for advice, and don’t be pressured into buying a puppy. In the long run you will be happier with the end results.

What are OFA and PennHip?

OFA; The method used by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. OFA has been the standard for many years. The OFA was established in 1966 and has become the world’s

Largest all-breed registry. Radiographic are taken by a local veterinarian
Under specific guidelines and are then submitted to the OFA for evaluation of hip dysplasia and certification of hip status. Since the accuracy of radiological diagnosis of hip dysplasia using the OFA technique increases after 24 months of age, the OFA requires that the dog be at least two years of age at the time the radiographs are taken. They also recommend that the evaluation should not be performed while the female is in heat. Three radiologists review the radiographs and a consensus score is assigned based on the animal’s hip conformation relative to other individuals of the same breed and age. Using a seven point scoring system, hips are scored as normal (excellent, good, fair), borderline dysplastic, or dysplastic (mild, moderate, severe). Dogs with hips scored as borderline or dysplastic are not eligible to receive OFA breeding numbers. The OFA will also provide preliminary evaluations (performed by one OFA radiologist) of dogs younger than 24 months of age to help breeders choose breeding stock

PennHIP: The diagnostic method used by the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (PennHIP) uses distraction/compression radiographic views to more accurately identify and quantify joint laxity. Radiographs of the hip joints are taken with the dog under sedation. Two views are obtained with the hind limbs in neutral position to maximize join laxity. Weights and an external device are used to help push the head of the femur further into or away from the acetabulum. The amount of femoral head displacement (joint laxity) is qualified using a distraction index (Dl). The DI ranges from 0 to 1 and is calculated by measuring the distance the center of the femoral head moves laterally from the center of the acetabulum and dividing it by the radius of the femoral head. A DI of 0 indicates a very tight joint. A DI of 1 indicates complete luxation with little or no coverage of the femoral head. A hip with a distraction index of.6 is 60% luxated and is twice as lax as a hip with a DI OF .3. When the DI was compared the OFA scores for 65 dogs, all dogs scored as mildly, moderately, or severely dysplastic by the OFA method had a DI above .3. Hips with a DI below .3 rarely develop osteoarthritis visible on radiographs. Although hips with a DI above .3 are considered “degenerative joint disease susceptible” not all hips with a DI greater than .3 eventually develop osteoarthritis.

How is hip dysplasia treated?

There are several surgical procedures available depending on the age and the severity of the joint degeneration. The procedures are: Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO), Total Hip Replacement, Femoral Head and Neck Excision, and Pectineal Myectomy. Medical treatment has greatly improved in the last several years thanks to the introduction and approval of several new drugs used to treat osteoarthritis. Through proper diet, exercise and supplemental glucosamine you can decrease the progression of degenerative joint disease but the looseness in the joint will not change significantly as a result of any supplement. For the best results, several of the following treatments must be instituted: weight management, proper exercise, Glucosamine and Chondroitin, buffered aspirin, Carprofen (Rimadyl), Polysulfated Glycosaminoglycan

(Adequan), vitamin C, and Corticosteroids. Discuss all treatments with your veterinarian and come up with the best solution for your dog.

Review:

•  Hip Dysplasia is a widespread condition found mostly in larger breeds.
•  There is a genetic link between parents and offspring.
•  Osteoarthritis is the result of hip dysplasia.
•  Surgical and medical treatments are encouraged to prevent and treat the resulting osteoarthritis.
•  Best way to prevent hip dysplasia is through selection of offspring whose parents, grandparents and great grandparents have been certified to have excellent hips.
•  Always consult your veterinarian for knowledge and treatment of hip dysplasia.

•  First practice the leave it/take command
•  Have on hand a dog toy that makes noises and the best dog treat (cut up chicken, hot dogs something a dog cannot resist), make sure your dog has not have any food for several hours and have your dog leashed during this exercise
•  Place the ball in your dogs mouth than gently try to remove the ball do not let the dog pull on the ball
•  Say the word “drop” and when he or she releases the ball immediately give them the ball back say “good dog”
•  If your dog does not release the ball squeak the toy or place a treat near their nose the minute your dog releases the ball give them the treat or return the ball with a “good dog” praise
•  Sometimes you will have to push the ball further into the dogs mouth until they release in a gage reflex but make sure the ball is large so the dog will not choke on it or swallow it
•  If the dog tries to run away with the ball you have the leash to keep him or her near you
•  If your dog refuses to release the ball end the game immediately and place your dog in his or hers crate your dog does not want the game to end so they will learn to release the ball so that the fun will continue

Make this game fun and enjoyable encouraging any good behavior.
As your dog get good at the game start throwing the ball.
Remember to practice every day for 30 day and no more than 10 minutes at a time. Keep practice short and sweet and leave on a good note dogs always remember the last few minutes of training.

•  Place a treat in your hand and close your hand over the treat so the dog cannot grab it
•  Place your hand near your dogs nose as soon as your dog tries to take the treat from your hand say “Leave It”
•  You may have to repeat “Leave It” several times
•  The minute your dog show less interest open your hand and say “Take”

How do you know your dog is showing less interest or is trying to figure out what to do next your dog will look away, may back up, sniff less or move their head in a different direction.
Your goal is to use this command whenever your dog is showing interest in items that he or she is not allowed to have.
This is a great command on walks when a dog wants to sniff something that is harmful or when showing too much interest in another dog or animal. This command is helpful in teaching you dog house manners when your dog wants to take something that is not theirs or when showing too much interest in another human being or animal.

Remember a dog learns in 30 days and they need consistency and repetition so practice every day in 5 to 10 minute session 1 to 2 times a day and put 4 hours between each session.

•  When we decorate our homes we need to take the time to make sure that the decorations are placed safely throughout the household.
•  If you are going to put a table cloth on any table than add food, candles or decoration make sure your puppy or dog can’t pull the cloth off the table.
•  When you decorate your Christmas tree do not use tinsel puppies and some dogs like to eat it.
•  When looking for ornaments check out to see if they are pet friendly and make sure your pet can’t pull off the decorative lights.
•  When choosing a stand for your tree is it sturdy and can it hold your tree safely.
•  Place the electrical plugs in a safe area.
•  Blocking off the tree area by using baby gates make life easier.
•  When you leave the home to shop or go to work place your pets in their crates or kennels.
•  Be careful when leaving food out some are very toxic to your pets.
•  Some of the foods you need to be careful with are chocolate, raisins, grapes, alcohol, tobacco and onions.
•  If you can’t watch your pets when the food is out place them in their crates, backyard, or a bedroom.
•  You can leash your dog and have someone keep them at their side to insure that the dog does not get into any thing harmful.
•  If you suspect or know that your pet ate something harmful call your veterinarian immediately.
•  If you are traveling and can’t take your pet consider a doggie day care, kennel or pet sitting service but make arrangements far in advance.
•  The goal for the holiday season is to be safe, worry free and happy.

When we are going for a walk whether it is in our neighborhoods, parks, or hiking trails we should constantly scan for stray dogs, feral dogs, coyotes, foxes or wolves. By scanning our surroundings we can determine our course of action.

Whenever I walk with my dogs I carry spray shield which is an animal deterrent spray and I constantly scan my environment to make sure it is safe for me or my dogs.

I also listen for unusual noises that may dictate to me a change in my course of travel. For instance, dogs pounding against the windows of their homes can break the glass and come after you. Another example is a dog jumping against a gate trying to get out, I call this barrier frustration.
I often hear from my clients that others let their dogs outside without leashes and the dog run over and start fights. The owners do not know what to do and usually someone gets bit.
Listed below are some options that can make your walking time safe:

• Scan the walking area continuously if you see a loose dog or animal in the distance it is a lot easier to turn around and go an alternative route.
•  Look for areas that can provide protection in parks bathrooms with a door, a building, fences, your car if it is close or having something between you and the animal it will also provide protection.
•  Carry with you an item that may deter the animal such as an umbrella. Dogs usually halt when an umbrella is opened quickly in their face. Spray Shield is another alternative or a walking stick may be used.
•  If you noticed a dog loose in the neighborhood go to that neighbor and express your concerns most cities have leash laws.
•  If the dog is not removed from the streets call the police and they will talk to your neighbor remember it is important to keep your neighbors safe and to keep that dog safe.
•  Go an alternate route if you see an owner who has no control of the dog.
•  Walk with other people and there dogs. There is safety in numbers.
•  Learn how to read dog body language. Educate yourself on dog calming signals.
•  Remember never run away from a dog. You will never outdistance a dog, they are just too quick, and to the animal when you run you set up the prey/predator chase.
•  Stay alert, and constantly scan your surroundings. Have an escape plan. Your walks will be safe and fun.

Whether I am conducting a dog training group, or an in home service I always educate my clients on dog safety. It is important to gain as much knowledge as you can to further empower yourself share this information with others. By being dog-smart you will keep yourself and your dog from harm.