animal planet, animal care

Why to Choose German Shepherds

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 10 Jul 2011 03:58:00 -0700

As their name implies, German Shepherds were bred as herding dogs. As such they were bred to work closely with people and to control large moving masses. Herding dogs were bred to work and need work; if you don't provide them with it they will find their own work to do. Also bred to think independently at times, these dogs can be smart problem solvers.

From their background as herders, you can expect these dogs to chase moving objects like bicycles and cars. They also have a tendency to nip at running children the same way they would nip at the heels of livestock. This is known as movement-stimulated nipping.

German Shepherds are very intelligent and versatile. They can be trained to be police dogs, guide dogs, seeing-eye dogs, protection dogs and so on. They can make wonderful companions. Even though highly trainable, German Shepherds require professional assistance at least for the first two years. They need constant, daily training and socialization sessions. Intensive early socialization is required to offset the problems of shyness and noise sensitivity that is common among all herding breeds. One should definitely not reward aggression or cowardice in this breed. Male German Shepherds should be neutered early.

German Shepherds have been an extremely popular breed for many years which has led to problems associated with overbreeding and poor breeding. Widespread genetic and temperament problems have left the Shepherd breed abounding with dogs who suffer from health and behaviour problems, excessive shyness and aggression. German Shepherds often become over attached to their owners which lead to separation anxiety, over protectiveness and fear of new situations.

The average height of a German Shepherd is between 22-26 inches and their average weight ranges from 65-100 pounds. Some, of course, can get much larger than this. Most Shepherds are black and tan in colour, but some can be solid black, white, or gray. These dogs are double-coated breeds and as such shed profusely. When shedding occurs, usually in the spring and fall, German Shepherds need to be brushed daily. Shedding lasts a couple of weeks, during which time the dogs will shed an amazing amount of hair.

As previously mentioned, these dogs need work and that translates into plenty of exercise. At least two sessions per day would be a minimum requirement. Daily training sessions would also be highly recommended.

Due to the high volume of breeding over the years, the behaviour of German Shepherds around children and other pets can be quite unpredictable. Some dogs can be fantastic around kids and pets and others can be the opposite. Some of this behaviour can be attributed to inherited traits but training and early socialization also play an important role here.

German Shepherds are prone to a vast array of health concerns. Here is a small list: hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, spinal degeneration, auto-immune disease, thyroid dysfunction, subaortic stenosis, skin disorders and gastrointestinal problems. Poor temperament has now become so common that a stable, confident and calm Shepherd is a very pleasant surprise.

At their best, German Shepherds are second-to-none for their companionship and devotion. They can be trained to do almost anything. It is a sad situation that these good specimens are hard to find with so many unhealthy and unstable dogs out there.

How to Take Care a Cockatiel

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Fri, 8 Jul 2011 03:33:00 -0700

There are lots of pets to choose from, but if you choose to get a cockatiel, there are some things to consider. For instance, can you provide lots of attention to it? Cockatiels are very social animals and demand constant attention. Cockatiels also have a tendency to bond with one person over others and will tend to stay with and be possessive of that person. However, if you still want a cockatiel, but do not have that much time to play with it, then you should get a second cockatiel and see if they bond. If two cockatiels are in nearby cages or the same cage they will grow close and receive most of the attention they need. As a side effect, however, the cockatiels will be less likely to play with you as much.

Another part about choosing cockatiels is their lifespan. They can live on average 12-15 years, and if they receive plenty of exercise, good diet, attention, etc. they can live up to 20 or in some cases 30 years. You need to carefully consider whether you will be able to take care of the cockatiel for such a long time. Will the length of time be too demanding?

If you are worried about animal poaching and cockatiels being taken from the wild, then you will be happy to know that the majority of cockatiels are not. All you really need to do is find a reputable breeder or find one that was hand raised when a baby. Hand raised cockatiels are cockatiels that came from two tamed cockatiels and trained by experienced breeders at a very young age. As a result, when you buy a hand raised cockatiel, they will be used to people and a better bird for companionship. If you choose a non-trained cockatiel, then check the person who you are buying it from to make sure they are reputable. Untrained cockatiels will not bond right away with anyone and can be very defensive, often biting and hissing at you until you train them.

Cockatiels are a fun and loving bird but knowing some basic facts before you buy one can help keep cockatiels and other pets out of animal shelters. Birds, like most other pets, are a big responsibility that requires time and energy.

Why Raw Food for the Cat

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Mon, 4 Jul 2011 05:48:00 -0700

Raw food for cats is beginning to catch on. People are beginning to understand that the long term health benefits to their cat on a raw food diet are enormous. It's not just the lack of quality ingredients in a typical commercial pet food that is so damaging to your cat's health. It's the chemical additives, from preservatives to artificial flavours, colours and appetite stimulants. And cooking destroys enzymes and alters protein.

Natural good health is the obvious consequence of a healthy, natural, raw diet. The plethora of new cat diseases that seem to appear almost daily is I believe, in a large part, due to the poor diet. Your cat's immune system depends to a large extent, on the daily food. Other conditions will affect an immune system, but perhaps nothing has such a large impact. Dr Pottenger way back in the 1930s established that fact.

Having established that raw food is superior, and cost effective in terms of good health, the next question you face is how do you go about implementing it? There are many aspects to consider in the change from commercial cat food to a raw food diet. You need to know which foods are suitable, which foods should be avoided, which foods can be harmful if given in excess. There are also considerations in convincing your cat to the change over as well as ensuring the diet is balanced.

I'm a great believer in baby steps. It's easy to become overwhelmed by a new idea. But take a little step every day, and suddenly you are an expert, without even trying. Don't be daunted by the enormity of the task ahead in converting from commercial to raw food for your cat. With help, it's easy.

Top Cat Care Tips

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Mon, 4 Jul 2011 05:06:00 -0700

Cats are unique to dogs in that most times, letting your cat wandering the neighborhood at night is perfectly acceptable. But have you decided whether to let your cat be an indoor-only cat or to allow them some outdoor freedoms? Here are a few things you should consider.

Most cats will want to go outside no matter what you ultimately choose for them, but some, specifically cats that have previously been allowed outside, can make things even more complicated. It's almost as if they don't particularly care about your decision either way. Therefore, the best thing you can do for yourself and the anxiety of your cat is to stay consistent from birth with them, or at the very least from the point where you adopt them. It is easier to convince a cat to stay indoors at all times if you've been keeping them inside since they were a kitten.

The upsides of making a cat an indoor-only feline are pretty numerous. First, this will reduce a lot of dangers in your cat's life. Cars, coyotes, and cat-based diseases are all that common inside your house. Because of this, indoor-only cats have on average a much longer lifespan than a cat that's lived outside his whole life, or even part of it. Indoor cats are also cleaner and have almost no chance of dragging in an unwanted dead mouse or bird or rolling in dirt and tracking it inside on your carpet.

However, keeping your cat indoors at all times will increase the need to clean the litter box as they won't have any other option for taking care of their waste. Outdoor cats have a lot more "natural" places to do their business, but an indoor-only cat has just the one (hopefully not also including your sneakers). Outdoor cats are also generally thinner as they're far more active than indoor cats. This is mostly because of the limiting space a house can provide, as well as the increased level of activities in the outside world.

The tough choice then is really all up to longevity, though nothing guarantees a long life no matter what you do. I've seen indoor-only cats fall ill and pass away at young ages and outdoor-only cats stay around for years and years. My sad personal experience has an indoor/outdoor cat turned indoor-only cat passing away at only seven-years-old from getting out one night and drinking some anti-freeze someone had placed on their doorstep because they were unhappy with all the cats in the neighborhood. Basically, there's no telling what will happen.

Therefore, look at the options you have available to you and plan accordingly. Will your cat be happier inside or outside? Do you live near a busy street or in the country? Do you mind a dead snake on your doorstep every now and then? Just remember to choose wisely.

All about Arthritis

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sat, 2 Jul 2011 23:44:00 -0700

If your favorite dumb chum is limping or favoring a limb or has lost interest in running and playing, chances are he is suffering from arthritis. Veterinarians report that arthritis is one of the most common ailment affecting dogs.

Arthritis and its types

Arthritis can affect humans as well as dogs. It is a progressive disease where the joints of the body are swollen. This inflammation may be accompanied by changes in the cartilage of the joint, change in joint fluids and may even affect the surrounding bones.

There are different types of arthritis affecting dogs. Osteoarthritis is the most common form of canine arthritis. In this case the cartilage of the joint gradually degenerate. Sometimes it is accompanied by remodeling the joints and formation of new bones. Other types of arthritis common in dogs are immune mediated arthritis, infective arthritis and idiopathic arthritis (when the cause is unidentified).

Symptoms of arthritis in your dog

If you observe one or more of the following symptoms in your dog, chances are he has arthritis.

> Your dog limps or favors a limb.
> He is showing less interest in playing and other vigorous activities which he used to love.
> You will notice definite hesitancy in walking, running and climbing stairs.
> The joints of your dog are swollen and stiff.
> Loss of alertness and sudden gain in weight may also indicate arthritis.

Causes

The most common cause of canine arthritis is old age. Apart from this if your dog has suffered injury to his limbs or joints he is also liable to develop the symptoms. Obesity is another common enough cause of arthritis in dogs. Finally some dogs may inherit the disease as genetic factor does play a part. Improper care during the early age may hamper the proper development of bones, leading to arthritis in old age.

The remedies

Responsible pet care implies immediate consultation with a veterinarian if you notice any of the symptoms over a few weeks. Physical examination followed by x rays and analysis of joint fluids help to diagnose the problem.

The treatment of canine arthritis can be done in following ways:

> A healthy diet and well ordered exercise regime under the supervision of the veterinarian helps in long term management of arthritis in dogs.

> Control of weight is essential. Recommended exercise include leash walking, mild controlled jogging and aqua exercises like swimming, under water treadmill etc.

> Alternative measures like acupuncture may help in reducing pain.

> Non steroidal anti inflammatory drugs rich in glucosamine, vitamin C, Omega 3 and fatty acids help to reduce the pain and swelling. This can be combined with some over the counter medication. But be careful while giving medicines to your dog. Many medicines meant for humans are toxic to dogs.

> A more expensive option is to go for surgery. Arthroscopy is a minimally invasive surgery used to help combat the disease in shoulders, elbows etc. Damaged joints may be fused together using metal implants. The latest technology also allows for elbow and hip replacements. However, the age and the general health of your dog may not allow surgical procedures.

All about Dog Bags

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sat, 2 Jul 2011 23:27:00 -0700

While walking our dog, we could all use a handy dog bag. Rather then stuffing our items in our pockets or carrying them by hand, our bag could hold them all. A list of those needs is below. There are now many dog bags available that meet our requirements. They will assist us on our walks with our best friends and help make our outings more convenient and enjoyable.

Tips-1: We need to be able to attach our dog bag to our leash and in whatever position we choose. Retractable leashes must also be an option. If we don't use a leash, then it would be good if it could be attached to our belt-loops.

Tips-2: We need a product to hold our supply of empty dog poop bags. Then we wouldn't always have to remember them and stuff them in our pocket as we head out with our pet. If we use a dog poop bags dispenser, our dog bag must be able to hold this gadget.

Tips-3: Our bag must be able to hold our "loaded" dog poop bag. After we scoop up the poop, we can simply place it in our dog bag rather than carry it by hand. Then it will be protected from rips or breakage and will be discreetly concealed. Our pouch must be able to hold multiple full dog poop bags.

Tips-4: There must be a pocket for our hand sanitizer. Realizing the dangers of dog poop to our health, our sanitizer must be conveniently available for us. We don't want to risk the danger of contracting the more than 11 diseases along with their disabling symptoms that are carried by canine feces. Sanitizing our hands after handling our dog poop bag will protect us and those we love from these risks.

Tips-5: Our bag should have pockets for dog treats and training supplies. Rather than stuffing treats, clickers and whistles in our pockets, our dog bag should be able to hold them all.

Tips-6: Our handy dog bag should have room for our cell phone, wallet, keys and flashlight.

Having a clip or pocket to carry these always needed items would be appreciated.

Tips-6: This product must be durable and washable and also be available in various attractive colors and useful sizes.

We all know what we need when out walking with our best friend. Rather than juggling our items by hand or shoving them in our bulging pockets, we need an attractive bag to safely carry everything. Considering the new products available, we are bound to find exactly what we need. Exploring the great outdoors with our canine companion will become more relaxing and more enjoyable once we are assisted by our new dog bag.

How to Stop Dog Barking

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 26 Jun 2011 10:10:00 -0700

Is your dog's barking getting out of control? Does the barking get worse when you leave your home? Are your neighbors at their wit's end? Are you contemplating getting rid of your dog? Bark collars can stop barking dogs quickly, easily, and humanely. When used properly, the electronic bark collar can stop your dog's barking completely within a matter of few days. If all else fails, however, surgery might be a reasonable alternative.

Most electronic bark control collars employ sound as the basic stimulus because it is well established that animals learn more quickly and retain a better memory when the desired behavior is associated with a sound. The more advanced models progressively increase the sonic stimulus as barking persists. Some models employ gradually increasing electric shock stimulus along with the sound to stop even the most stubborn barkers in a humane manner.

The drawback with some "barking dog collars" is that they may detect barking with a microphone and activate on sound; these can be set off by other noises or by another dog's bark. Some Barking Dog Collars use only vibration; these can be set off by motion or jostling.

Bark Collars You Should Avoid:

1) Bark Dog Collars the project a spray mist which startles and confuses the dog's olfactory senses, causing him to stop barking. These mists may cause allergic reactions and hypersensitivity in your dog.

2) Independent devices that have a built-in microphone tuned to the sound of your dog's bark. They emit a loud correction to startle the dog so he stops barking. They automatically stop and reset themselves after each auditory correction. The dog feels no correction with this type of bark stopper and can simply move away to another location further from the receiver and completely avoid the sound all together.

Barking Dog Collar You Should Choose:

1) One that simultaneously senses both sound and vibration, and only uses a combination of sound and vibration to trigger the electronic correction. By having both of these features, the electronic bark collar will be activated only by the dog wearing the collar, so there won't be any "false corrections" caused by loud noises or other dogs barking.

2) One that automatically adjusts the level of static correction to your dog's temperament with different levels of self-adjustable corrections in response to the bark intensity of your dog. The more intensity settings will help to accommodate the most sensitive too the most stubborn dogs.

3) One that provides a warning beep with the first bark.

4) One with a rechargeable battery, which features a low battery indicator light.

5) One that features a quick fit buckle that provides a quick release.

6) One that is durable, light weight, waterproof, and adjustable.

7) One that comes with a complete operating guide and a video tape demonstration.

In some extreme cases, however, an electronic bark collar may fail to produce results. If your dog happens to exemplify such a case, then a surgical procedure called "De-barking" might provide you with a suitable alternative. The surgery is fairly simple to perform and your dog's barking will be replaced with "squealing" sounds. The surgery will not affect your dog physically or psychologically as it will not make any difference to your dog whether it squeals or barks. However, there are several drawbacks to surgery. First, the procedure is irreversible; and second, your dog won't be able to alert you to intruders. If you are at your wit's end, when you have exhausted all others means, when you can no longer face your angry neighbors, then surgery might be the best alternative to giving your dog away.

Understand Dog Behavour

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 26 Jun 2011 09:32:00 -0700

One of the first dog obedience commands you will teach is training your dog to sit and stay. This is an important command for you and your dog to master. It will clearly define you as the dominant one in the owner-dog relationship, and will provide a solid foundation for more advanced training later on.

You can start training your dog to sit and stay at around three months of age. Some general things to keep in mind when you first start out:

> Keep the training sessions short, ten minutes is fine initially.

> Make the training fun, don't make it feel like a chore, to you and your dog.

> Sessions should be full of praise and positive reinforcement (more about this later).

> Be repetitive, practice over and over until it clicks with your dog.

Training Your Dog to ‘Sit’

The first step in the process is getting your dog to sit on command. There are three training techniques I use with my dogs, depending on their age and temperament.

1. For young puppies I like this method. When you see your puppy about to sit, or in the act of sitting, just say "Sit" in a firm tone. When your puppy sits praise him. In your dogs eyes this technique builds an association with your verbal command "sit", and the act of sitting. Most puppies make this connection very quickly.

2. For older puppies or dogs this method works every time. With your dog standing in front of you, grab a tasty treat and guide it over his nose, then continue up over his head. Hold the treat a couple of centimeters above your dog while performing this motion. It will cause your puppy to follow the treat up with his nose, and at the same time plant his behind on the ground. You should say the command "Sit" as your dog is getting into the sit position. Praise and reward your dog as soon as he sits. After a while you will only need the verbal command, not the treat.

3. You need a collar and leash for this next technique, which is best suited to bigger dog breeds. Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up tight, directly above your dog’s collar. At the same time push down on your dogs back and say "sit". As soon as your dog sits, reward and praise him. Within no time you can stop pushing him down, and then stop holding the leash up tight. All your dog will require is your verbal "sit" command.

Training Your Dog to ‘Stay’

The "Stay" part of the Sit and Stay is our next step. Since we have already trained our dog to sit on command, I prefer to use a "release" or "away" command, instead of "stay". This is because when I tell my dog to sit, I really mean sit and stay, until I tell you to do something else. The release command I use is "off you go".

The process goes like this. Tell your dog to sit, he'll stay in the sit position, then break or release this sit command by saying "off you go". You should use your dog's name then your release command to start with, which will cause your dog to come to you. When he gets to you praise and reward him. After a while you will only need to use your release command, your dog will understand that he is free to go. If your dog breaks the sit command before you issue the release command, say "no!" and put him back in the sit position and start again.

Over time you can increase the time and distance between getting your dog to sit and then releasing him from it. You may even want to add some distractions, or do your training in different locations. When your dog holds his sit position even when a cat cruises by, you know he is ready to move on to more advanced obedience training commands.

If you understand and apply these methods you should achieve the desired result. It may take a bit of patience and plenty of repetition, but you will get there.

Best Food for Insects

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 23:44:00 -0700

More and more stores have started to sell food for insects. But this food is often very expensive making the savings of breeding at home nil. So I've put together a list of low price food for most feeder insects. I'll break them down into the individual insect species.

1. Crickets

While some breeders feed crickets exclusively grain foods, I've found this provides the crickets with none of the protein that your pets require. Here's an inexpensive recipe I've been using for a while. The main ingredient is dry cat food, followed by bran or oats, as well as vegetable scraps. Start by blending the cat food dry, making a fine powder.

Mix about 3 parts cat food to 1 part bran or oats. If you like you can add fish flakes or other dry grains, but these could get expensive. And for moisture I've Found that carrots or potatoes work good. You could also use a simple sponge placed in a jar lid. Just make sure the sponge is clean and doesn't contain any soap. I purchase all these items at my local dollar store. There is no need for premium ingredients.

2. Mealworms

For meal worms I use a simple mix of bran and oats. I purchase these from my local feed store in big bags that last months. I also like to add some of the cat food as well. I've found the protein and brewers yeast that is in the cat food helps the mealworms grow faster and larger. I use to use carrots or potatoes for moisture, but have just discovered cactus pads are the best moisture source. When they are finished there is only a thin cactus skin left. The cut pieces also don't mold either.

3. Roaches

Feeder roaches are even easier. I provide a slice of inexpensive bread or just left-over bread scraps from the kitchen. I also provide a small dish of the cat food as well. For moisture I like the sponge in the shallow dish.

My advice is to you that before you try the expensive commercial food try some cheap home made recipes first.

Tips for Worm Farming

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 23:20:00 -0700

Getting started on a worm farm is not that complicated, all you'll need is a love for recycling and a little bit of worm trivia so here's some worm trivia that could help motivate and inspire you with your new venture. How much do worms usually eat? Mature worms capable of eating up to three times their own body weight every day and for those who are just starting in the world of worms and what to know how to make the worms eat more and have a lot more productivity.

The answer is simple - shred, mash or blend food scraps since these will make the food more digestible and is very easily eaten by the worms. Also maintain worm bed temperature at around 23-25 degrees Celsius, since it is at these temperatures that worms feel their best, but don't feed your worms foods high in acid content as it will screw up their digestive system. The following are a few things you'll want avoid feeding your worms, manure, onions, citrus fruits or peelings, garlic, garden waste sprayed with insecticides, dairy products like milk and cheese or meat.

Watering the farm will enhance the production of the fertilizer but take care not to add too much water in the farm or the worms will die. Take note that food wastes are actually eighty percent water content which is released as the worms begin to break it down. So, if you happen to pour water over the system every couple to few weeks be sure to just add sufficient water to make sure that the bed remains damp and cool, and you will have a constant supply of this fertilizer.

You will not be able to harvest the worms since they'll regulate themselves within any space and the amount of food made available to them. Here are a few other questions that you might find yourself inquiring.

Why is it common for worms to gather on the lid of the farm when it is raining? It's a perfectly normal response for these worms to act in this manner during the rainy season to avoid getting drowned. To avoid drowning, just take the farm containers to an area where it won't be exposed to too much rain and drop the worms to the farm bedding.

Why don't the worms just relocate to the upper level of the tray? If could be the result of you putting in new food before the worms have completed the earlier batch. Worms have an instinct to stay with leftover food and won't seek out to find a new food source until it consumes what was left previously. Therefore, before adding new trays, halt the feeding of the worms for at least five days so you can be sure the old food has been eaten and make sure that the levels in the tray needs to be placed high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.

Do worms have the ability endure high temperatures? Worms are able to stand a temperature ranging between ten to thirty degrees Celsius. So if it gets hotter than they can stand, place the farm in a nice shady cool place where it can regulate the moisture and humidity of the boxes. In colder temps make sure to cover the box with old clothes, blankets and wool shavings to sustain the warm temperature. It's also good to feed the worms at least a quarter more than you're supposed to since more food by the worms gives way for more heat to be generated within their bodies. So use these ideas and you can be on your way to create a great worm farm.

2 Great Fish for Your Fish Tank

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 19 Jun 2011 23:21:00 -0700

There is a large variety of freshwater tropical fish that you can add to your fish tank but my two favorites are Mollies and Fancy Guppies. These fish are livebearers meaning that instead of laying eggs, they give birth to a little tiny fish and they are, in fact, quite easy to breed even for a novice aquarist.

Mollies

A Molly is a great fish for a beginner hobbyist. These fish are fairly hearty and will withstand adversity and conditions well so if you make a mistake you can have a good chance of you for surviving. You want to be sure that you have a least a 15 gallon tank and you have a good heater as these fish like the temperature to be between 70 and 82°F.

There are two general types of Mollies to choose from the Sail fin and the short finned. Most typically what you will find a short finned Mollies - the Black Molly and the gold dust Molly at your pet store. This Sail fins are much larger than have a striking shape but are harder to care for.

Mollies can be fed the regular flake food that you find in the fish store but you might want to think about mixing in some freeze dried blood worms and even throwing in a few black worms or two for a treat. If your finish tank does not have a lot of algae you'll want to also supplement their diet with spirulina flakes.

When keeping Mollies it's important to have more females than males. other fish that will coexist good in a fish tank with mollies include the Plecostomus, Swordtails, Angelfish, Corydoras, Catfish, Silver Tip Tetras, Red Serapes and Black Skirts. If given the proper environment and care Mollies can grow to be five inches long and live to be five years old.

Fancy Guppies

The male fancy guppy is beautiful with a long flowing tail light comes in a variety of beautiful colors - gold, greens, blues, Reds, blacks. The female, on the other hand is rather plain coming in grayish brown. Many people love the guppy is a freshwater tropical fish and keep tanks with several copies in them which really maximize the beauty of their colors as they swim in a school.

if you plan on keeping, or maybe even breeding, fancied up these then you want to be sure to have a big enough tank to provide them with enough room in a good heater as they like it to be between 78 and 82°F. On the whole, guppies are pretty easy to keep that you can feed them floating flake food supplemented with frozen brine tramp or freeze dried blood worms.

You want to keep twice as many females as males in your aquarium. You can also keep Neon Tetras, ghost shrimp, glass fish, gouramis, dwarf frogs and catfish. Given the right conditions guppies can grow to be about 2 inches long and live for around three years.

Both mollies in guppies will do better if you add a little bit of marine salt to your freshwater fish tank - just one tablespoon for every 5 gallons should do. You might be able to keep them in a fish tank together but just be aware that the larger mollies can attack the guppies.

Some Uncommon Pet for You

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 19 Jun 2011 22:57:00 -0700

A lot of people go for pets that are cute and cuddly kittens, puppies, hamsters, you know the drill. If you're like me though, you like to try pets that are a bit unusual--the kind that make you stand out in a crowd. They help you start interesting conversations, and they let people know that you're the kind of person who blazes his own trail.

If you're Looking for an Unusual Pet, here are My top 3 Recommendations:

Chaco Golden Knee Tarantula

Forget the common pet-store variety tarantulas. The chaco golden knee get to be much larger - about 8.5 inches in legspan - and is among the most docile of tarantula species. It's also fairly easy to take care of, which is why I strongly recommend it.

Bearded Dragons

Lizards are nice; they don't generally freak people out the way snakes or spiders do, and some of them are very docile. Iguanas are very popular, but they can grow to be six feet long, which means that they will require massively large cages. Leopard geckos are also nice, but they tend to be much smaller--only up to about eight inches in length. In contrast, the most common variety of bearded dragon gets to be about two feet long, making it impressively large but not unwieldy.

Don't like the creepy, crawly types?

Then try a tank of mudskippers! These unusual fish live in brackish water, but are capable of crawling up on land for extended periods of time. Just place them an aquarium that only filled halfway with water, and give them some surfaces to climb on - some pieces of driftwood or some plastic lily pads, for example. The fellas are freaky and fun to watch!

Clothing for Beekeepers

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 23:02:00 -0700

There's quite a variety of beekeeping clothing now available in stores that is quite effective. This for only a couple of bills that will be nothing compared to the cost of the implications associated with improper beekeeping clothing - or lack of.

Before we go any further, I cannot highlight the importance of protective beekeeping clothing enough. It is an absolute priority when it comes to handling of the entire activity owing to the dangerous nature of bees. They are quite protective of their territory and can become violent with the slightest of agitation.

Beekeeping clothing can come in the form of a full suit complete with boots, or it may be broken into the hood, veil and ribcage-length tops or jacket. The more seasoned beekeepers like to don the modestly covering types of protective clothing that could only include a hood and veil covering only the head, neck and upper chest. This is risky for especially the novices as the bees might slip through from under the veil. If you are just starting out, I would recommend the full suit with the UV resistant hood and veil, a set of gloves, elastic cuffs, and strong seams at the joints. The gloves should have some elastic fasteners at the ends or at the wrist and should at least come up halfway towards your elbow. The cow-hide-like gloves are just the thing.

The hood and the veil are available either separately or pre-attached. It could also come in two shapes of either the hat-shaped kind or the dome-shaped one, you know, the Neil Armstrong kind. The hat and veil combo provides a wider angle view and is ideal for working with a couple of hives that could be sprawled on a garden or ranch. Its basic design offers a guarantee that your face will never get anywhere remotely near the veil which could expose you to the stings - remember the swarm generals will point to your face at the onset of an attack. Remember to clean your clothing regularly. Washing machines may damage the clothing so it is always advisable to hand-wash them.

White is the perfect color though there are other generally lighter colors. For some reason, bees will rarely attack you if you have a white suit. They perceive the dark colors as threats and easily get agitated prompting a vicious attack. For some other reason, they cannot resist the smell of your breath and will head for your face during any such attack. This area should be a priority as far as beekeeping clothing is concerned.

Information for Beekeepers

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:48:00 -0700

There are a whole lot of online resources about beekeeping these days. This is a good thing and I actually urge you to voraciously scan the pages and get as much info as you can on beekeeping - especially if you just are setting out. As for the seasoned beekeepers, this doesn't leave you out in any way. You need to read about the developments that could make you a better and more efficient beekeeper.

Whether it is in the area of maintenance, safety and protection, or general handling practices, announcements of breakthroughs in these broad areas abound all over the internet and the media in general. So there really isn't anything like 'knowing it all'. So what's the basic beekeeping information that you need to have either as a beekeeper or someone starting out? Broadly, you need info on the following aspects:

First, you need to properly understand the bees. Ok, you know what they are and of course they sting. But this is not sufficient! Understanding the bee nature will almost guarantee your success in this activity. For instance, you need to understand the different types of bees and their roles in the colonies, the behavior of the bees during an intrusion that they need nectar and pollen to produce honey, and that bees exist as a complete unit or colony. This means that it is not just a few disgruntled bees that will leave if the conditions get unfavorable in the hive, the whole colony can head for the woods in a swarm!

The next critical thing is your safety and protection. Don't be fooled by the sweet honey they produce, bees are by nature extremely protective and are ruthless when it comes to intrusion and interference to their habitat. They will certainly attack anyone and anything they deem to be an enemy. This is a fact that you will have to live with the rest of your (hopefully long) beekeeping life. There have been quantum improvements on the design and functionality of the protective gear required in beekeeping - and also quite a range to choose from.

Information on not just all the basic procedures involved in beekeeping, but also the most efficient handling of the same. A detailed step by step approach on these procedures will ensure that you are not just effective but that you also get as much output as is due to you. These procedures could include maintenance guidelines on the hives and the environment around the bees, for instance their source of nectar and pollen, how and when to harvest the honey, and which tools to employ and how to use them effectively. You need to have the right tools and know how to use them properly. Don't buy the whole store; only get what you need to get the job done.

Lastly, you need to be furnished with info on how to package and process your honey if you intend to sell it. Actually you need this info in any case. Chances are that there are some regulations and local authorities that will need to be involved or at least be in the know about your beekeeping activity.

How to Take Care of Turtle

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Thu, 9 Jun 2011 10:30:00 -0700

If you take good care of your turtle then she will live for many years under your happy eyes. I think that the most important problem in the turtle care process is the turtle feeding. You must be very careful what you feed you turtle because there are turtle foods that can harm them very bad. You should always consult specialty books referring straight to you kind of turtle.

When a man will search some information on turtle feeding he will probably find a lot of lists with food that you can give to your turtle. But if there aren't specified some important details then one could think that an aliment that is much alike one that is recommended is good for the turtle to. This is a big mistake. There are many differences starting from the way the food is served (cooked) to what substances it contains. So, for making your turtle care easier, I will try to present in this article some turtle foods that you should never feed.

Forbidden foods:

1. If your turtle is a vegetarian one then you shouldn't feed meat. This would be very bad for their metabolism.

2. It's usually recommend to feed any vegetarian food that it's not toxic for the human. Spinach is one of the plants that you shouldn't feed. The spinach has a high concentration of oxalic acid which prevents calcium absorption. So I recommend you not to feed or to feed very rarely. The same problem appears for rhubarb and chard. Also never feed rhubarb leafs because they are poisonous.

3. When you cook something for you i don't advise you to give it to your turtle because they are too salty and fatty.

4. Any processed meat like pork, bacon, sausages is bad for your turtle feeding.

5. Never feed raw chicken or turkey because there are many chances for the salmonella to appear.

6. There are also some foods that you can feed to your turtle but rarely.

7. Canned cat or dog food it's good but it's too fat and it contains too much protein.

8. You can feed Lettuce and celery but i can tell you that they don't have any nutritional value.

9. You can include in your turtle feeding some beef, chicken or other meats that humane eat but give them only cooked.

The best way for you and you turtle is to find an exact food mix that will provide the pet the resources she need without harming them. If you won't feed the foods I have listed than you shouldn't have any turtle care problems when it comes to feeding.

All About Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Thu, 9 Jun 2011 10:09:00 -0700

Chinchillas make great pets. Unlike other small animals, the chinchilla's lifespan is about fifteen years. That's great for the folks that really get attached to their small pets. Chinchillas are very small, and can easily be kept in smaller spaces. Your child can have years of enjoyment from them.

Caring for chinchillas is relatively easy as well. You can get a cage for them and use woodchips, as you would for other small caged animals. You can also let your chinchilla out of the cage, but be careful to watch them as they love to hide and can be difficult to find!

One of the other nice aspects about pet chinchillas is the fact that they sleep during the day, making them nice pets for children who can play with them when they get home from school in the afternoon, or for adults who work during the day.

Pet chinchilla's are fun to play with. They can be housetrained, too, although it might be difficult, so watch them if they are out of their house. Also be sure to keep them away from dogs and cats. They are excellent pets for apartments that don't allow larger animals, too.

Your chinchilla likes to have hiding places in its house, so provide things like clay pots for them to sleep in. They need that nesting box, so make sure their cage is large enough for it. All wood used in a chinchilla's environment must be non-treated, because your pet chinchilla is, after all, a rodent. They like to chew!

Chinchillas are generally clean animals, but they do need some grooming in the form of dust baths to keep their fur nice and soft. Chinchilla dust is available at most pet stores or through your veterinarian's office. Let your chinchilla enjoy a dust bath a few times a week. Be sure to follow the directions on the label, but it's quite easy. As for more aesthetic grooming, you can get special combs at the pet store for your chinchilla.

When you get your pet chinchilla, it's best to get a young one, so you have a chance to let your chinchilla get accustomed to being held. They might nip if you scare them, so acclimatize them to their new home and their new owner as soon as possible. They are soft and cuddly, and when you start interacting with them early, you'll have a loyal pet that will bring you years and years of enjoyment. For the young or old, a chinchilla makes a wonderful pet, that is easy to care for, and will be a friend for a long time.

Kids and Fish-Never Go Hand in Hand

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 5 Jun 2011 09:38:00 -0700

Having a tank of tropical fish, or a saltwater aquarium, can give your whole family many hours of enjoyment. Even young children will find the antics of neon tetras and the mysterious caves of catfish, to be fascinating. But as a parent, you may be concerned about issues of safety for your youngsters.

For very young children, the first thing you need to impress on them is that they must not feed the fish, without help from Mommy or Daddy. Canopies are an essential piece of aquarium gear, and can pose hazards for little fingers, not to mention the fish. A toddler trying to lift a heavy canopy can get a hand caught, drop things in the tank, or even manage to dislodge the top and tip it into the tank while the lamp is plugged in and lit. By all means, let them "help" with chores, but impress on them that taking care of the fish, is something that has to be done together. A curious child left alone with a fully equipped aquarium is capable of disconnecting cords, pulling heaters out of the tank, causing them to crack or shatter, or damaging the glass by banging against it.

Another precaution to teach children, is sanitation. While there are few disorders/diseases that can be passed from a fish tank to humans, the water does contain bacteria not found in the child's normal environment, so one of their first fish-keeping lessons, should be to always wash their hands after helping to clean the tank, or feed the fish.

All about Rabbit Fencing

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 5 Jun 2011 09:17:00 -0700

Rabbits consume about 150 grams of dry matter per day so a large population can do serious damage to a commercial crop of vegetable crops in a short space of time. The additional consideration is the wastage caused by vegetables being discarded as they do not meet strict consumer requirements due rabbit damage.

Large scale commercial vegetables are difficult and expensive to protect by conventional fencing and the only viable option is to use portable electric fencing.

If you are serious about your gardening, (rabbits love garden vegetables, especially leafy greens) and tired of losing your prize plants to rabbits or just want to keep rabbits out of your yard, then electric rabbit fencing is the perfect solution.

Traditional rabbit fencing usually consists of expensive wire mesh with a portion of that buried underground to stop them burrowing under. These had to be substantial constructions, time consuming and expensive to erect. Luckily, these are no longer necessary.

Effective Electric Fencing can be erected via two methods:-

> Flexinett electric netting. This is highly effective, very portable and very easy to use. All netting systems are resource hungry and do require a larger energizer to run an equal distance.

> Parallel wire systems. These require more precise erection but may still be regarded as temporary. They are cheaper and require fewer resources than a netting system.

The efficacy of the two systems may be judged by the results of a trial carried out by the Central Science Laboratory on behalf of the Horticultural Development Council in Cornwall. Both systems proved to be over 95% effective in excluding rabbits and far more effective than the farmers own attempt to protect his cauliflowers. No more than a single rabbit was ever seen in either of the two systems; by contrast, as many as 1 per square meter was seen in the farmers control on any night.

The majority of rabbits touch the live wires of the fence with their noses, receive a shock, and retreat into the harborage. This created the psychological impression associated with Electric Fences and prevented their return. The sharp sting experienced by rabbits when they touch an electric fence creates a strong psychological imprint on the rabbits' brain that the animal cannot visualize so they are unable to ascertain the outer limits of this barrier. As a result of this, Rabbits were not found to have burrowed under the fences at all and a few were seen to jump through. These could have been eliminated by the use of bait caps to re-enforce the efficacy of the fence. Rabbits seen to touch the fence reacted sharply by retreating into the nearest harborage and were not seen to test the fence for a second time. The number observed testing the fence will also decrease with time with up to 65% fewer observations in weeks of erecting the fence.

The farmer on whose land the research was conducted estimated that the additional profit arising from subsequent yield increases was sufficient to cover the costs of Electric Fencing in one year and of Electric Netting in two.

Trials to determine the number of years of useful life of electric netting fences were terminated after seven years at the end of which they were working effectively. However, if maintenance is poor or nets are regularly moved, the useful life of the fence will be considerably shortened because of the damage rabbits will do to it by chewing and mechanical damage to the filaments.

Erecting the netting is quick and easy once familiarity is achieved and the only precaution is to ensure the bottom live strand does not come into contact with the ground. These nets are then attached to a suitable energizer. Netting is very resource hungry and requires strong energizers. Research the capacity of the energizer carefully, establish how many nets it will run and then go a bit bigger. A wimpy energizer will result in a wimpy fence.

Line fences are constructed using standard fencing equipment. In addition to the four wires suggested, it is advisable to put a return-earth wire against the ground. This is connected to the earth stake and is not energized. The function of this is to improve the contact between the rabbit and the ground and will increase the effectiveness of the fence. The fence will be further enhanced by utilizing Bait Caps on the fence. These are small absorbent pads in a metal cap. This material is soaked in an attractant such as neat Apple cordial and attached to either type of fence. The rabbit will approach them and use its' nose or tongue to investigate it. Both the nose and tongue are highly enervated and extremely sensitive to stimulation. Both these techniques will increase the effectiveness of the fence.

The majority of Electric fence problems arise from 2 sources, the energizer was inadequate to start with or the underground post being incorrect. Sort those two out and you should have good results. A rusty piece of metal buried a few inches underground is not an adequate earth post. Rust is not a good conductor and the long-term chemical reactions between the soil and metal are the cause of the majority of problems. 12v systems and above require an earth post at least 1m long driven into wet soil to be totally efficient. The greater the soil/metal contact that can be achieved, the easier the current will flow back to the energizer, the stronger the fence will be.

Parrot Care Tips

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Tue, 24 May 2011 23:51:00 -0700

The cage is your beloved parrot's home. Any living being should have good home so you have to be sure that you can provide your parrot with the best conditions. Also if you choose the parrot cage wisely than you will avoid some parrot care problems that can appear in the future. The parrot cage should be the largest expense after practically buying the parrot. So if you are going to spend some money then be sure to spend them on a good deal.

The parrot is going to spend a lot of time in the cage so you'll have to choose the right one for your pet. The most important parrot care issue is you bird's safety. There are many cases where parrots got injured or killed because of their cage.

Safety- Like I already said safety is the most important thing when choosing a parrot cage. You can find Knock down cages on the market. You buy one of those than you'll have to examine it very good to see if there are any pieces that can be easily removed by you parrot. If there are than I don’t advices you to buy this kind of parrot cages because the little pieces can be swallowed by you parrot.

The majority of parrot cages I saw in pet stores are built from different metals like wire, stainless steel, zinc. From what I found so far the wire parrot cages are the most economical. But you mustn't forget to inspect the cage regularly for broken welds or broken wires. You can find metal parrot cages at medium prices on the market. This parrot cages are built in a variety of metals shapes and colors.

The most expensive parrot cage that you can find in your search is the Stainless steel cage. The advantages of this type of parrot cages is that they will never rust or cause metal poisoning. So I think that if you are ready to make a good deal, buying a stainless steal parrot cage would be the perfect choice. Even if it's expensive i can ensure you that you'll never have to replace it.

One important safety issue is the bar spacing. When you buy a parrot cage make sure that the bar spacing is smaller than you parrot's head. This way you can be sure that your pet's head won't get stuck between the bars.

Size - another important aspect for a parrot cage is its size. The best thing you can do is to go to a pet store and buy the largest parrot cage that you can find in your budget range. A big parrot cage gives more freedom to your parrot and it will have a happier life. Keep in mind that the width of the parrot cage is more important than the height. Mostly, your parrot will fly from side to side.

The components of the parrot cage are the last but not least of the important aspects when buying parrot cages. Swings out feeders are a good way to feed your parrot especially the aggressive ones. You can also buy food dishes for you parrot cage. These accessories also come in different styles and colors.

Try to find a parrot cage that has an entry door big enough to get the bird out easily. Remember that parrots are very smart so they can learn how to open the cage doors. If this happens then you will have to take some security measures and ad some new components so the parrot won't be able to open the door anymore.

Also try to look for a parrot cage with removable litter trays. This way you will clean the cage with no effort and your bird won't reach the old left over food.

In conclusion if you want a happy and healthy parrot you must provide him with a good home. If the parrot cage meets all he parrot care aspects that I mentioned above then you can be sure that your pet will live healthy in peace.

Why You Need Pet First Aid Kits

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 22 May 2011 22:37:00 -0700

Even if you have the perfect first aid kit for you and your family, it might not help when Fiddo or Fluffy gets hurt. To help pets in an emergency, assemble a pet first aid kit.

Just like a human first aid kit, a portable, durable watertight container is needed to hold all the supplies. Assemble all of your supplies first so that you know how big of a container you need. Plastic food containers or tackle boxes make excellent first aid kits. A pet's needs in an emergency are similar to your own, so make sure to include gauze pads, adhesive tape, scissors and tweezers, and have a blanket handy.

Be sure to ask the pet's veterinarian of specific supplies the animal might need like anti-diarrhea medicine, syrup of ipecac to induce vomiting in case of poisoning, and activated charcoal to ease stomach upsets. Include some eyedroppers in the pet first aid kit to give pet medicine. Also make sure the current contact information of the pet's veterinarian is included in the kit.

If you are taking your pet with you while you travel, be sure to modify the pet's first aid kit. Do research on the area's environment. Call a veterinarian or the hotel or friends you will be staying with there to ask if the area has any poisonous plants, snakes, or extreme temperatures.

If a cat or dog is injured, remember that it is an injured animal, not a person. You may need to muzzle your dog so that it doesn't bite you while you are giving first aid. Never give your cat or dog people medicine like aspirin or acetaminophen. Check with your pet's veterinarian about what medicines are appropriate in emergencies and what dosages are safe for your pet.

Basic Rules of Choosing Pet Food

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Fri, 20 May 2011 23:21:00 -0700

A dog is a man's best friend. You do everything you can to maintain your optimum health. Doesn't your best friend deserve the same? Your dog is an active member of your family and needs the same, if not more attention to health and nutrition as you do, to stay healthy, and live longer.

After all it's very easy to get lost in a big pet store. The sea of products that we have today, aisle after aisle is very confusing and also time consuming. However keeping your dog healthy need not be a career option for you. All we need to use is a little commonsense and good information regarding the breed and age of your dog.

Let's divide the dogs into two categories - small & adult.

For Small Dogs & Puppies

It has long been established and proven that small dogs have a different metabolism as compared to large dogs, due to physiologic effect of their body mass. For ex., Great Dane weighing 100 pounds needs to consume about 23 calories per pound of body weight Pomeranian weighing 6 pounds needs to consume 47 calories per pound of body weight every day-more than twice as much!

As owner of a small dog, you need to be certain that your dog's energy needs are being satisfied. Be sure to choose a diet that's been formulated properly with optimal balance of highly digestible nutrients. Digestibility determines how much your dog can actually utilize each nutrient in a diet. Puppies require almost twice or thrice as much food as adult dogs per pound of weight. To keep up their energy levels, they have to be fed as frequently as three to four times till they are six months of age.

Diet is always the key to raising your children or puppies. The diet should be balanced, nutrient rich, should contain high levels of phosphorous and calcium and be highly digestible. It should also contain high-quality proteins. This would ensure that the puppy develops strong bones, muscle and tissue.

For Adult Dogs

Your dog like you needs a combination of fats, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, minerals, and water in a balanced diet to meet their daily needs. A lot of dog food bags claim they are in themselves complete food. This ends up as null if the nutrients cannot be absorbed by your dog's system. Major companies take great care in this aspect by trying to provide the nutrients in an absorbable form.

Dog foods must also consist of mineral and vitamin supplements in a balanced form. The proportions should be accurate so that they do not interfere with each other in your dogs system. This would provide maximum benefit to your dog. If the food consists of one ingredient in overdose and the other in lower doses, it could have an adverse affect on your dogs health.

Given below are some feeding tips to make chow time more pleasant:

1. Always keep the food dish clean.

2. Feed adult dogs twice a day to prevent hogging at one single meal and lessens the chance of your dog developing bloat or stomach torsion.

3. Feeding Schedule should be relaxed so that your dog knows the meal time but will not bother you if you are a little late.

4. Keep your siblings away from your dog while feeding, so that he does not get insecure and feel a need to defend his food.

5. Never let your dog have free access to food, lest they have constant activity in their digestive systems.

6. Never play with your dog with his dish, better to teach him/her manners instead.

7. Leave the dish for 15 minutes so that he licks it clean.

Pets vs. Loud Noises

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Thu, 19 May 2011 04:46:00 -0700

Which is the noisiest species of all? Nope, not the lions, or the elephants, or the geese... it's us, humans. Our voices were not enough; we started making music and creating musical instruments to help us being louder. Have you thought about how that noise affects your pet?

Pets don't understand what is happening, even if you dress them with a patriotic costume. They don't know these are "happy" noises, they just perceive them as a sign of danger. They get nervous, afraid, and if they feel they're exposed they will try as hard as they can to look for a hideout, sometimes this means they run away.

What can you do to minimize the effect of loud noises on your pet?

Tips-1: Ask your veterinarian if it's recommended to give your pet a mild sedative, be sure to ask for the correct dose depending on the pet's weight. There are natural remedies to cope with stress for pets you should consider those too.

Tips-2: Keep your pet in a room in which he/she feels safe. Put there his/her bed, fresh water, food and make sure the room has proper ventilation, but that the pet is not capable to escape.

Tips-3: If you have to leave your pet outside, check all fences for loose parts or openings and fix them in order to prevent your pet from escaping through them.

Tips-4: Keep your vet's phone number at hand in case of an emergency.

Tips-5: Make sure your pet wears his/her collar with ID tag at all times, and that the contact information in the tag is updated.

Tips-6: Keep a recent and clear photo of your pet available, in the event of your pet getting lost, you can make flyers and post them everywhere. Remember that a frightened pet can run long distances so he/she may end up far from home and don't know his/her way back. Send the photo to your local paper too, they must have a missing pets section and it can reach more people than the flyers.

How to Buy Pet Bed

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sun, 15 May 2011 23:44:00 -0700

When you get a pet home, there are some basic things that you will need and they come under pet supplies. Some of the important pet supplies include pet food, eating bowls, harnesses and pet bed among many others.

One of the important things that you need to consider while buying a pet bed is the way your dog or cat or any other pet sleeps. A pet bed is mostly required for dogs and cats only although you can buy it for rabbits and some of the other smaller pets too.

The second most important thing to understand is that a pet bed will be different for a dog and different for a cat. Normally, what you use for your dog will not be used for your cat. You can find pet beds at various stores offering other pet supplies and even online. One of the good things is that you will find a lot of variety when it comes to pet beds including the popular heated beds. The heated beds have grown in popularity because of the fact that they have a heating element that will keep the bed warm in the winters and will be comfortable and relaxing for your pet. You can choose from a heated orthopedic bed to a heated thermo pet bed. Most of the pet beds are available in three sizes, which are:

Small: 19"x24" - The small pet bed can take weights of up to 20lbs

Medium: 26"x29" - The medium pet bed can take weights of up to 40lbs

Large: 36x38" - The large pet bed can take weights of up to 60lbs

Another type of popular pet bed found in pet supplies is the round bed. This is a perfect bed for dogs that like to cuddle up when they sleep and for cats that love to sleep with their legs thrown apart. This pet bed is available in three sizes for dogs and they are:

Medium: 36 inches - The medium pet bed can take weights of up to 50lbs

Large: 42 inches - The large pet bed can take weights of up to 80lbs

Extra Large: 52 inches - The extra large pet bed can take weights of up to 140lbs

You can also get these beds in different combinations of color and design like blue polyester suede that will look neat and even go with the overall décor of your home. The important aspects that needs to be considered while buying a pet bed include the size of your pet, the amount of space in the room, the number of pet you have, their weights, if you need separate pet beds or a single one, the colors, do you need a simple pet bed or a heated bed etc.

When you have decided on your pet bed the next thing will be to consider what other pet supplies you will require. What do I need? These items will vary depending on your pet; cat, dog or rabbit, all of which will each have its own requirements. The most important thing of your pet supplies will be food; a pet won't last very long without it. Once you have selected your food then there will be all the sundries that we spoil our pets with, like collars, lead, pet beds and clothes.

Beginners Guide to Find Tarantulas

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Sat, 14 May 2011 23:37:00 -0700

Tarantulas can make wonderful pets. They are exotic, fascinating creatures that require much less attention than a dog or a cat, or even a tank of fish. Many species are hardy enough to require minimal care, and they always make great topics of conversation. Nevertheless, novice pet keepers should be careful about deciding what kind of tarantula to get, as some species can be aggressive or inordinately delicate. Here are some recommendations on the best species for beginning tarantula keepers.

1. The Honduran curly hair tarantula (Grammastola albopilosum). Pet store employees typically recommend the Chilean rose hair tarantula, but I'm going to defy popular opinion here. In my judgment, the Honduran curly hair tarantula makes for a better pet, provided that one doesn't mind some extra expense. Like most common pet species, these are gentle, incredibly docile creatures. Unlike the Chilean rose hair tarantula though, these have very hearty appetites. Admittedly, they tend to be more expensive than the rose hairs; however, spiderlings can typically be purchased for a pittance (often from $3 to $6 each), and due to their ravenous appetites, they grow rather quickly.

2. The Chilean rose hair tarantula (Grammastola rosea). This is the most common pet store variety. They are likewise gentle and easy to take care of; however, they have this annoying habit of fasting for months on end, which can be most aggravating. Still, they do make wonderful pets for beginners.

3. The Mexican red knee tarantula (Brachypelma smithi). This species, along with the Chilean rose hair, is commonly used in movies and on TV. It is likewise very docile, and much more colorful than most pet store varieties. In my experience though, its hairs tend to be a bit irritating to human skin. In addition, due to its popularity, it has become a restricted species; that is, harvesting them from the wild has been made illegal. As a result, they tend to be on the expensive side.

4. The Mexican blonde tarantula (Aphonopelma chalcodes). Another docile wonder. For a while, this species was not readily available for sale, but it has been making a comeback. Most pet stores still do not carry this variety, but it is often available via mail order.

5. The Chaco golden knee tarantula (Grammastola aureostriatum). Easily one of my favorites! These specimens are not as colorful as the red knee tarantula, but they can be distinguished by the gold-colored bands on their legs. They also have impressive legspans (up to eight inches or more!), but their frightening size is belied by their utterly sweet dispositions. However, because they are relatively new to hobbyists, they tend to cost more than other tarantulas.

6. The Brazilian black tarantula (Grammastola pulchra). These also tend to be on the large side. This is not a colorful species; however, their satiny black carapace gives them a sleek, elegant look. This variety is almost as large as Grammastola aureostriatum, with a legspan of 7 to 8 inches.

7. The Costa Rican zebra tarantula (Aphonopelma seemani). This one is a bit harder to take care of than the previously mentioned species, but it's still a treasure. These tend to be a bit skittish though, and so handling them is not recommended. They do not typically bite, but they are prone to running away, and like most tarantulas, they can be easily injured in a fall.

Make Your Dog Obedient

noreply@blogger.com (newsman) — Fri, 13 May 2011 11:42:00 -0700

The term, "A happy dog is an obedient dog" is one that I really believe holds a lot of merit due to its simplicity. If you have a relatively well behaved dog, that interacts well with the family, it is fair to say that rarely will you or anyone else in that family be angry or even worse abusive towards your pet. On the other hand if your dog is not obedient to a satisfactory level, and does not interact well with the family, one can say that members of that family will have a hard time coping with the pet and this trend can only escalate only leading to the eventual departure of the pet from the family.

When teaching your dog basic obedience, it is wise to make sure that you first have an understanding of the art yourself. Like people, dogs have unique personalities none of which are the same, and it is a good trainer that will take the time to figure out the dog before trying to figure out how to best approach introducing basic obedience.

Furthermore, there are many external resources out there for you to take advantage of in order to help you understand the art of training. Books, articles, Obedience Instructors, and the internet, are all viable sources that you should take advantage of when seeking advice, or just experiences from others in your situation.

Below I have listed my top ten components to keep in mind when working with your dog. I did not rank them, as they are all very important to keep in mind as they will only aid you in bonding, understanding, and interacting positively with your four-legged friend:

Know what your doing- Before introducing any type of training, do your research first! To often, pet owners try to do all the work their way, get frustrated and take out their frustrations on their pet. Having an understanding of the methodology behind the many types of training, will benefit you to know end.

Consistency- Being consistent with your approach is very important when dealing with your dog in any aspect of life. When working with your dog try to use the same approach each time. Changing training methods mid session for example will only confuse your dog even more than he-she already is. Furthermore, set up training time at least twice a day, and keep to these times. Training time is important, the more sessions you set up the more productivity you can expect in the long run.

Keep your sessions short- The attention span of a dog is frail at the best of times, thus it is crutial to keep the sessions short. Remember keep the sessions short but do not sacrifice content. Rome was not built in a day.

Keep training sessions fun- Dogs as do people, like to have fun, and why shouldn’t they? Training can be fun for you and your pet! Be lively, treat good behavior, praise your dog to no end, make him feel like he is the best dog in the world, even if he's not!

Never punish your pet for what they don't know- Too often, I have seen people talk to their pet with the understanding that their beloved dog is a master of the English language, only to punish them when the desired response is not carried out. This really bothers me because it shows me that that person would rather bully their pet into submitting than taking the time to research, develop and implicate an approach to help the dog learn the desired response to certain words or phrases.

Train to your dog's strength- As stated above every dog has its own unique personality; therefore we must identify characteristics of our pets in order to take advantage of them in our training sessions. If your pet is very lively, take advantage of that! During training sessions, be lively yourself! Match your dog’s enthusiasm, when your happy pet will be happy and your pet will be very happy come training time.

If your dog has a laid back shy personality, take this into account when training. Still be lively and upbeat as this will spark the interest of your dog, however keep in mind that due to his/her personality, displaying comprehension may take longer due to the shy nature of your dog. It is really important to make a shy laid back dog feel super great during training sessions as this can only improve your chances of continuing successful training.

Incorporate training into your everyday routine- It can be very beneficial to perform individual obedience exercises through out the day. Simply by performing the sit exercise while you brush him or having the dog sit while you attach his leash can help to imprint the sitting position. Keep little things like this in mind as they can only aid you and your pet.

Be patient- Remember you are trying to teach your dog! Your dog is a non-English speaking individual, lacking house manners, behavioral skills, do I need to continue??

Take your time, play to your dog’s strength, praise, respect, keep sessions short and compact, and have fun!

Empithize with your dog- The best example I can think of for this suggestion, is going to a foreign country and trying to comprehend what people are saying. Somebody will come up to you and start rambling on in a foreign tongue and you has no clue what they are saying. Your dog is in the same predicament with you. When you start training your dog, he-she has no clue on earth what you are saying. How is he-she supposed to respond if he-she doesn't know what you want? As in the above example, the more time you spend in the foreign country, the more familiar you become with the language. You can apply the same principle with your dog. More training leads to more comprehension, leading to the end result, an obedient dog.

Reward good behavior- The best way to reinforce good behavior is to reward it. Others may disagree with this statement, but through my experience with my own dog and others around me, I have found that rewarding good behavior can only aid in maintaining that behavior. In my opinion, the best way of rewarding good behavior is through offering toys or treats. Praise is also worthy but would you rather have an icecream cone, or a good handshake? I personally love icecream and would pick that over a handshake any day. Your dog is driven by his belly in most cases, and you can achieve astonishing success by baiting your dog with the occasional russle of the treat bag.