Animals and Pets

Cat hairballs

2010-06-16T11:24:00.000+05:30

Friskies Cat Treats Tender Hairball Remedy with Chicken, 3-Ounce Pouches (Pack of 10)

Cat Hairballs are something every cat owner has encountered one time or another.

Little Mo has had her fair share over the years, although being a shorthaired cat the problem has been very infrequent and mild. Longhaired cats are not so lucky and my old Maine Coon cat Tigger was prone to some very nasty attacks of cat vomiting.

So exactly what are hairballs and what do they look like?

For the first time cat owner a cat hairball can be something of a shock, especially as they don't actually look like a ball at all. To best describe them you would have to say they look like a dark coloured slimy sausage of matted cat hair.

Depending on the amount of hair swallowed by your cat they can range in size, Little Mo's are about the size of my little finger, but Tigger's were much longer and thicker (this is a lovely subject isn't it?)

So why do cats get hairballs?

In the wild a cats fur coat will have different thickness's depending on the season. Their coat will naturally shed when the weather becomes warmer and thickens up during the cold months.

In the wild the loose fur is more likely to fall off by itself and so requires less assistance from the cat. However our domestic cats are now used to living in more comfortable surroundings inside with central heating.

This unfortunately means that the fur coat does not shed at the usual seasonal times and is more likely to have a light shedding all year round.

To get rid of this loose hair cats will groom themselves and so be prone to swallowing more cat hair. This loose hair if swallowed in large enough quantities will be unable to pass through the intestines and so begins to form what we call a fur ball.

How do I know if my cat has a hairball?

Normally a hairball can be passed through the cat's digestive system and will pass out via the cat's faeces. In which case most cat owners would not be aware that there was one. Hoverer if a fur ball becomes too large the quickest and easiest way for the cat to get rid of it is to vomit it up.

The first signs that your cat might be feeling a little unwell is when you see them eating grass, which means they are trying to make themselves sick.

Another indication that something is wrong is that your cat may stop eating for a day or so and may even start to retch a lot, without anything coming up.

Usually the cat will be able to regurgitate the furball by themselves after a few days.

After which they are usually back to their old selves and famished. In some very rare cases the fur ball may become so stuck that the cat cannot vomit it up themselves, causing an obstruction in the gastrointestinal tract.

In these cases it will have to be removed by a vet surgically, thankfully this is a very rare.

Can Fur balls be prevented?

Although there are no guarantees that your cat won't ever get a fur ball, there are certain things that you as an owner can do to reduce the occurrence and frequency of them. After all it can't be very nice for kitty to keep getting sick all the time.

Grooming - weekly or in the case of longhaired cats, daily brushing of your cats fur to remove loose hairs with a brush is essential. The fewer loose hairs there are for your cat to swallow the better.

Dry Food - There are some dry foods available that help the loose hair to pass more easily through the intestines and so prevents a fur ball from forming.

Lubrication - There are some safe lubricating remedies on the market that help your cat to pass a particularly difficult hairball.

We sometimes have to give Little Mo a helping hand with this type of medication. She loves it as you can get them in different flavours and after a short while the fur ball is usually passed.

Cat health problems

2010-06-16T11:16:00.000+05:30

A-Z of Cat Diseases & Health Problems, Signs Diagnoses Causes Treatment - 1998 publication

Do you have some nasty cat health problems that you hope to solve? Welcome to animalsadpets.blogspot.com, where you will find all the information you’ll need to make sure your cat lives those nine lives to the fullest and your pets symptoms explained. Your cat will reward you a thousand fold with loving company and beguiling ways and will bring years of delight into your life.

It’s not only a privilege to own house cats but a big responsibility too. However they come into your life, whether they adopt you, or come from the cat rescue shelter or because someone was finding new homes for kittens, they are part of your family and your life, and as a loving and responsible owner you’ll not only be providing good food, shelter and a warm place to sleep but also making sure that all their health and welfare needs are met. It is up to you to make sure that you protect your pet as much as possible from the wide range of feline conditions and cat illness that can arise, even better get cat health insurance.

On this site you will find the complete spectrum of cat care issues and plenty of useful detail to help you understand more about cat health and the treatment and prevention of illness. If you are able to recognize in your cat health symptoms and signs of illness you will be able to help ensure timely and adequate treatment, such as a diabetic cat would have increased thirst, due to the increased production of urine, sudden weight loss, depressed for no reason or has got a poor coat condition.

You will also be able to find out more on different types of cats, and how the cat breeds differ from one another and if you are naming your new cat we have a big database of cat names too.

Up to date vaccination requirements are listed and explained, and there are articles devoted to particular cat hygiene issues. There is plenty of information on giving your cat nutrition based on an optimum balance of food groups and why you should not allow cats to put on excess weight. Basic feline anatomy and physiology is covered too so that you can understand how the feline body works and how it is affected by illness and disease.

Each article will give you in depth information in language that is easy to understand, and many subjects are accompanied by simple illustrations to show how a joint is structured and how it moves, or how where an internal organ is situated. Diseases are explained too so that you can understand the treatment the veterinary surgeon is giving and why, and you will find lots of helpful suggestions on general day to day problems like fur ball, fleas and food fads.

We would stress that this information is not meant as a substitute for professional advice, and in caring for your cat veterinary supervision and expertise is vital. On no account should you ever let your loving companion suffer. We strongly advise you to seek expert help on any issue regarding your pet – our aim is to provide you with the knowledge to understand cats and to help you work alongside the veterinary team to make sure that your pet stays fit and healthy and to be of the best support during any illness.

Why cats scratch

2010-06-15T11:43:00.000+05:30

SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post

Our neighbor has a female cat named Peaches who frequently scratches the bark on a cherry tree in their front yard. In fact, the tree has been scratched so much that there are noticeable gouges in it and small pieces of bark have accumulated on the ground underneath. Why does Peaches scratch this tree so much?

It has long been assumed that when cats scratch objects with their front paws that they are sharpening their claws. It turns out that this is only a secondary reason. Research on cat behavior suggests that the major reason for this behavior is communication. By roughing up the bark of a tree (or the leg of your favorite chair) the cat is letting other cats or people know where she is and what she is up to.

Cats tend to pick a small number of conspicuous objects in their environments to scratch such as trees, fence posts, the corner of the couch, etc., and return to them repeatedly. This is why the tree next door looks so scratched up and why your cat may find it difficult to leave your couch alone. The scratched surface leaves a highly visible mark that can be easily seen by other cats. In addition, cats have scent glands in their paws so that when they make scratching movements they leave odor cues that the cats can smell. The fact that cats leave scent marks by making scratching movements may be the reason that cats will continue to try to scratch objects even after they have been declawed. Declawed cats may still be leaving scent marks on objects they scratch.

We don’ t know exactly what cats are communicating with their scratching. Both males and females do it, it is done inside and outside the home and even by cats living with no other cats around. It could be a territorial warning or just a marker that announces "Peaches lives here and is alive and well!" Cats don’ t scratch up your furniture to spite you or just to be destructive, but for specific reasons, one of which is communicating. Cats also scratch to stretch, during play, and possibly as a greeting or to relieve frustration when prevented from doing other things they want to do.

Cats use scent from other parts of their bodies to communicate as well. They have scent glands at the corners of their mouths, in the thin hair between their eyes and ears and at the base of their tails. They leave scent marks on people and objects when they rub their heads and tails on things. Just what they are communicating with the rubbing isn’ t known, but they seem to do it most to people or other cats they are attached to or when they are feeling friendly. Cats can also scent-mark by spraying urine on objects. Cats spray from a standing position, not from the squatting posture they use during elimination. Spraying often occurs during territorial disputes and when the cat is highly aroused or frustrated and is usually not related to litterbox problems.

When scratching is done indoors on walls, furniture or carpeted areas it can result in considerable damage, owner frustration and sometimes the loss of the home for the cat. It is easier to prevent problem scratching rather than trying to change your cat’ s preference for the arm of your sofa after it has become an established habit. Thus, the goal is to establish acceptable scratching habits by getting your cat to prefer a scratching post rather than the arm of your sofa.

Some pointers for establishing good scratching habits in kittens and newly acquired adult cats:

1. Put out several scratching posts in 2 or 3 areas most used by the cat, such as near the sleeping place, and the places the cat most likes to rest and to play.

2. You can make your own scratching objects rather than purchasing them, but be sure the scratching surface is fabric that is easy for the cat to shred.

3. Don’ t put the cat’ s paws on the post and force it to

4. Do encourage scratching on the post by playing with dangle-toys on or near the post, scenting the post with catnip, using praise and food rewards when the cat scratches the post or even scratching the post yourself to stimulate the cat to scratch.

For older cats who have an established scratching problem:

1. Make the damaged scratching area unavailable or cover it with thick plastic so that it feels different and less appealing.

2. Put the scratching post next to the damaged area and be sure it is covered with a material that is acceptable to the cat. Some cats prefer to rake loose-weaved fabric, while others like to "pick" at knubby textures.

3. Because cats like to scratch in prominent areas of their home, you may need to leave the post in the area where the cat prefers to scratch. Your cat may not scratch a post located in the back corner of the basement.

Most cats can be taught or retrained to scratch a post and not damage other things. If these ideas do not resolve the problem, talk to your veterinarian about a referral to an animal behaviorist. Declawing your cat should be the last resort if all else fails.

(Formerly published in the Rocky Mountain News, CO)

Neutering your cat

2010-06-15T11:36:00.000+05:30

Neutering your cat (Companion pets)

From around the age of 5 to 8 months, kittens reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing kittens themselves! Most people do not have the time or desire to breed from their cat and do not wish to add to the number of unwanted cats and kittens already looking for homes. Neutering a cat - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus) - not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual maturity and reduces the risk of certain diseases.

What sex is my kitten?

Kittens, especially young kittens, can be hard to sex, and therefore, mistakes are often made. If you are in any doubt you should ask your vet (they will check prior to neutering anyway). To tell the difference between the sexes you will need to lift the tail and look at the genitals. In the male, about 1cm below the anus is the opening of the prepuce with the scrotum immediately above this. The anus and prepuce appear like two 'dots'. In the female, the vulva is a vertical slit which is almost joined to the anus, like a letter i.

Spaying a female

In the past it has been suggested that all female cats should be allowed to have one litter of kittens. However, this is totally unnecessary and of no benefit whatsoever to the cat. It is therefore preferable to have a female spayed before she reaches sexual maturity. Once sexual maturity is reached, the cat will begin to come into season or 'call'. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur every three weeks, and when a cat is 'calling', as its name implies, this can be a very noisy affair! Certain drugs can be used to suppress the sexual cycle, but these carry quite a risk of significant side effects in cats and are not recommended for long-term use. If you are not going to breed from your female kitten, having her spayed will eliminate the sexual behaviour, the possibility of unplanned pregnancies and the risk of diseases associated with the genital tract later in life.

The spaying operation involves the administration of a general anaesthetic and the surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus through an incision made on the flank or belly of the cat. The fur at the site of the incision will have to be shaved before surgery and your vet will ask you to withhold food from the evening prior to the anaesthetic. Usually your kitten will be able to return home the same day and the skin sutures are generally removed after 7 to 10 days.

Castrating a male

Castrating a male is equally important as spaying a female to prevent unwanted pregnancies. Furthermore, entire male cats have a strong tendency to roam, to be aggressive to other males, to fight and to mark their territory by spraying urine (often indoors!). The aggressive behaviour puts an uncastrated male at much higher risk of serious infectious disease such as feline immunodeficiency virus (feline 'AIDS') and feline leukaemia virus, both of which are transmitted through cat bites.

Castration involves removing both testes under general anaesthetic through small incisions into the scrotum. As with the spay operation, withholding food from the previous evening will be required to minimise potential anaesthetic complications, and the kitten can usually go home the same day. Usually the skin incisions for a castration are so small that sutures are not required.

Postoperative care

Cats usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually very lively again. It is sensible to try to keep your kitten fairly quiet for a day or two to allow the internal wounds some time to heal. However, if your kitten seems unusually quiet or dull you should contact your vet. Also, if your kitten starts to lick or scratch excessively at the skin sutures, contact your vet to get a dressing or special collar to prevent any damage being done to the wound.

It is important to remember that once a cat has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your cat start to put on too much weight.

Dark patches of fur

The skin temperature is important in determining the hair colour of some cats (eg, Siamese cats). This means that when a patch of hair is shaved (eg, for the spay operation) the new hair may grow back a darker colour. However, this is only temporary and, as further hair growth occurs, the dark hairs are replaced by normal lighter coloured hairs.

Age for neutering

A cat can be neutered at virtually any age although it is usually done at 4 - 6 months old. Undesirable behaviour patterns may be more difficult to alter if cats are neutered when they are older. It is now becoming increasingly common for cats to be neutered at an earlier age (2-3 months old). Timing of neutering is discussed in more detail on a Cat Group Policy statement.

Feeding your cat

2010-06-15T11:27:00.000+05:30

Feed Your Pet Right: The Authoritative Guide to Feeding Your Dog and Cat

To understand the cat's complex and highly individual pattern of feeding it is important to consider its ancestry. The domestic cat (Felis catus ) is adapted to a hunting lifestyle existing on an almost totally animal diet. Its jaws, digestive system and behaviour have been developed to accommodate this behaviour. Throughout the process of domestication the cat has not changed significantly in its nutritional and behavioural needs and it has remained dependent on animal tissues as the main source of its food. The sensory system of cats is particularly adapted to respond to the constituents and sensory qualities of meat.

Because it is an obligate carnivore and therefore has special dietary requirements which distinguish it from other carnivores such as the dog, the cat requires animal derived tissue in its diet and has a higher protein requirement than many other mammals. Cats are unable to adjust to a low protein diet and will use body protein to satisfy their needs. The uniqueness of this species has been demonstrated by their specific dietary requirements. A deficiency of the amino acid, arginine, in a single meal can lead to clinical signs of lethargy, hypersalivation and vocalisation. Arginine is required by the cat to synthesise urea, a waste product resulting from the breakdown of protein.

Another essential nutrient for the cat is the amino acid, taurine, which the cat cannot synthesise sufficiently to meet its needs. The cat's diet must therefore contain taurine in sufficient quantities. If a deficiency develops there is a high risk of serious and irreversible damage to major organs such as the eye and the heart. Taurine is found almost entirely in meat and supports the concept of the cat as an obligate carnivore.

Whilst it is difficult to establish a direct relationship between nutrition and longevity, it is obvious that inadequate or deficient diets do have a major impact on critical stages of the life cycle of the cat, such as, reproduction, the rearing of a healthy litter, growth and development. It is also obvious from the above that certain illnesses have a dietary component to their onset and can have serious consequences for the cat.

Perception of flavour

The factors that can influence a cat's perception of 'flavours' include a food's odour, taste, texture and temperature.

The olfactory apparatus (organ of smell) of domestic cats is far more sensitive than that of humans. The perceived odour from food is particularly important for the initiation of feeding. If the odour is highly palatable to the cat then that alone will encourage consumption of an otherwise bland diet. However, the response to odour will be less if the cat does not taste the food too. The sense of taste combined with the sense of odour are most important in the perception of flavour. Cats have taste buds on their tongues that respond well to substances classified by humans as salty, sour or bitter. Unlike many mammals, cats do not appear to respond to the taste of 'sweet', but their taste buds are particularly sensitive to the constituents of meat - thus cats respond to various amino acids, the building blocks of animal proteins.

The texture of a food also affects palatability. Cats are unable to chew effectively. They reduce the size of the food by tearing or cutting it into pieces which can then be swallowed. The moisture content of the food influences the meal size and speed at which the food is eaten. Moist, palatable canned food is eaten rapidly when it is first offered although this gradually slows down over the mealtime. In contrast the more calorie dense dry foods are consumed at a slower, more constant rate. Semi-moist foods are consumed at a rate intermediate to the canned and dry foods. However, when food is offered ad lib, the pattern of feeding remains constant with small discreet meals being taken at random. The overall energy intake is rarely affected by the texture of the food.

Temperature also plays an important role in food selection. Most cats prefer food at temperatures around 35 degrees centigrade. This preference may be partly explained by the increase in food odour that occurs as the food is warmed but it is perhaps more than coincidence as this temperature is similar to that of freshly killed prey. As temperatures rise to about 40 degrees centigrade, the preference for the food decreases.

Previous experience

A cat's preference for food types is influenced by genetic and acquired feeding traits. Inherent patterns of behaviour play a large part in discriminating useful foods, as is indicated when orphaned kittens are being raised by hand without the benefits of learning from their natural parents. However, the individual cat's likes and dislikes for certain foods are influenced through the types of food experienced through its life.

Cats do like variety in their diet and will often choose a new diet in preference to a familiar one, as long as the difference is not too great, or the palatability too low. As the cat is a true carnivore, the different food items which are acceptable to it all tend to be very similar. This may explain why total aversion to a newly encountered food is not commonly found in the cat unless it is very different to its normal food, or of low palatability. If the cat is initially reluctant to accept a new food, this can often be overcome by offering several small meals of fresh food on subsequent occasions, thereby maintaining high odour levels.

The selection of food items may also be related to the motivational level of the cat. When under stress adult cats tend to select familiar food items rather than a new diet and may reject foods which have recently been associated with a stressful or painful event. Cats may also reject diets that are deficient in certain minerals and vitamins, such as thiamine. Cats probably recognise deficient foods via learned aversion. This appears to occur due to a linking of the flood flavour with an unsatisfactory digestive consequence, that is a rapid learning of flavour associated with a physiological response.

There are many other factors which can affect the feeding pattern of cats. Many cats are sensitive to lighting and noise levels, so the place of feeding may also be as important as the type of food container used and its cleanliness. Physiological factors, such as age, health and sexual activity of the cat can also affect appetite. The ability to appreciate taste and smell deteriorate with age and are reduced by certain disease conditions such as cat 'flu.

Stress associated with physiological factors such as new surroundings when moving house or being boarded or hospitalised may reduce food intake as may the introduction or loss of either a human or animal in the cat's environment. Short term veterinary treatment, such as castration or the lancing of an abscess, does not usually interfere with feeding patterns, however more prolonged medical interference can reduce appetite.

Energy needs

Many cats control their energy intake regardless of differences in the energy density, moisture content and texture of the diet. In general cats will normally eat the amount of food required to satisfy their energy requirements. Cats that hunt for food or are normally outdoors for long periods of time tend to take larger meals, but less of them. However cats readily adapt to different feeding schedules and if set feeding times are used then they will normally adjust food intake to accommodate this. The energy in food is measured in kilocalories (kcal) and is derived from fats, carbohydrates and protein. It is important that the percentage of energy provided by the protein part of the diet is at least 25% of the whole, otherwise the cat's appetite will be satisfied before it has taken in enough protein for its health requirements. Similarly it is also important that the food intake level is sufficient to supply the other necessary nutrients such as fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.

Types of nutrients

Protein

Protein is necessary for life, which is true whether the species is man, dog or cat. Proteins are large complex molecules which consist of chains of much smaller building blocks called amino acids. Cats, like other animals, require protein in their diet to provide the specific amino acids which their bodies cannot synthesise, these are referred to as the essential amino acids. These are then reformed into new proteins which are necessary for tissue growth, repair and the regulation of metabolic processes.

The cat has been shown to have a higher dietary protein requirement than the dog in both the adult and growth stages of development. This does not seem to be due to a high requirement for one or more particular amino acids, but because its metabolism appears to be set at a high rate of breakdown for amino acids which increases the demand for protein. Unlike other species which can adjust their rate of protein breakdown, cats seem to be unable to 'switch off' these mechanisms when presented with a low protein diet. This may be because the cat had little 'pressure' during the course of evolution to adapt to a low protein diet because of its efficient predatory behaviour which has ensured a high protein meat diet. Furthermore, animal flesh is low in carbohydrate which is the usual source of blood sugar in non-carnivorous species. Due to the cat's high intake of animal tissue, the ability to break down large quantities of protein to glucose is essential and may also help to explain the high protein needs of the cat. It is therefore recommended that the protein intake for the adult cat provides at least 25% of the daily calorie intake.

Fats

Dietary fats perform several functions They are the most concentrated energy source of all nutrients, and increase palatability and texture to cat foods. They are also important in carrying the fat soluble vitamins, A, D and E. Fat is essential to the cat's diet as it supplies the essential fatty acids (EFAs), linoleic and arachidonic acids, which play key roles in maintaining the general health of the cat and are vital in many body systems including the skin, kidneys and reproductive organs. In most mammals linoleic acid can be converted into the other EFAs required by the animal. The cat has a limited capacity to do this and whilst this may not seriously affect the health of the adult cat it does affect specific life stages such as reproduction. Linoleic acid is found in large amounts in plant oils but the EFAs derived from it are found almost exclusively in animal tissues. However, small amounts of linoleic acid are also found in meats and arachidonic acid is found exclusively in meat, making meat the best source of fat for cats. It is recommended that at least 9% of calories should be provided by fat.

Carbohydrates

The cat has no nutritional need for carbohydrate as it is able to derive a lot of its energy from the breakdown of protein. It does, however, have the necessary enzymes to digest and metabolise carbohydrates so they can form a useful dietary source of energy. Cats can therefore be fed wheatflakes, cooked rice and even potatoes to a limited extent, although some cats cannot tolerate high concentrations of certain sugars. For example, if suddenly given a large bowl of milk, some cats can develop diarrhoea from the sugars (sucrose and lactose) due to the lack of digestive enzymes resulting in fermentation of the sugars by bacteria in the gut. There are milk drinks designed especially for cats that are lactose reduced.

Vitamins

Studies in man and animals indicate that the so-called antioxidant vitamins, C, E and beta carotene (the precursor of Vitamin A, present in certain plants, vegetables and fruit) are important in preventing certain substances called free radicals from causing damage to cells and being involved in the ageing process. Vitamins may also be protective against certain forms of cancer.

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is best known for its importance in vision. It is also involved in other processes such as the regulation of cell membranes and the growth of bones and teeth. Beta carotene found in plant material, is used by many mammals as a precursor of Vitamin A. The cat, however, is unable to convert beta carotene to vitamin A and must therefore obtain its vitamin A from animal sources. Good sources for the cat are organs such as liver and kidneys, with muscle tissue being relatively low in this vitamin. However, a word of caution is necessary here, too much vitamin A can be as harmful as too little, and cats fed diets consisting mainly of raw liver have developed a condition known as hypervitaminosis A, presenting with signs of lethargy, unthriftiness, stiff neck and other skeletal problems. The daily requirement for an adult cat is in the region of 650-850 International Units which is present in only 5g of good quality beef liver.

Vitamin D

Vitamin D is involved in the metabolism of calcium. Animal tissue is low in calcium so the cat's diet must be supplemented with this mineral. A deficiency of vitamin D results in rickets. However, cats need very little vitamin D and when the quantity and ration of calcium to phosphorus in the diet is normal, true rickets is very rarely seen.

Vitamin E

Although very uncommon, vitamin E deficiency can occur in cats, particularly when fed food containing large amounts of unsaturated fats to which antioxidants have not been added. Unsaturated fats oxidise and go rancid easily, as a result, the vitamin E present is destroyed. Yellow fat disease or steatitis occurs due to a deficiency of vitamin E and may occur when feeding red tuna which does not have the necessary antioxidant or extra vitamin E added. Normal diets and proprietary foods containing tuna fish are adequately protected in this respect.

Vitamin C

Cats do not need to be fed vitamin C as they are able to produce their own.

B-group vitamins

The water soluble vitamins that are of relevance to cat nutrition are all members of the B-group or complex, and nearly all are involved with the utilisation of foods and the production of interconversion of energy in the body. Vitamin B1, or thiamine, is needed in relatively large amounts by the cat. Because it is progressively destroyed by heating, pet food manufacturers add calculated amounts in the pure form to the food being processed. Exactly the same progressive destruction occurs in any cooking operation so home cooked meats will need to be supplemented. Raw fish diets may also result in a deficiency of B1, due to the presence of thiaminase which destroy the vitamins.

Minerals

Minerals can be divided into two groups, the major or macro minerals which are required in larger quantities and the micro or trace minerals which are required in much smaller amounts. Almost all (about 99%) of the cat's body calcium is contained in the skeleton and teeth. Soft tissues such as meats and offal are very low in calcium and if they are fed as the sole food source, calcium deficiency will occur. Proprietary prepared foods from reputable manufacturers are supplemented as necessary during manufacture. Milk is a good source of calcium, unfortunately some cats are unable to tolerate the sugar present in milk (lactose) because of an inadequate amount of the enzyme lactase, which is important in lactose digestion. Some cats, especially of the Siamese breed, will not drink milk at all. Good proprietary diets have adequate supplies of the major and trace minerals.

Water

Water is the single most important nutrient necessary to sustain life. In spite of popular belief, cats require fresh clean water throughout a 24-hour period, even if they are drinking milk as well.

Obesity

If the cat is being fed individual meals several times daily, there is often a tendency to offer the daily supply of food on several occasions rather than divide up the daily feed into several meals. This can also occur with cats fed dry food ad lib. Cats usually regulate their food intake, but continual exposure to large quantities of food may lead to over-eating and subsequent obesity if too many calories are consumed. Monitor your cat's weight and ensure it does not become fat.

Kittens

At birth kittens on average weigh about 100g (about 3-4 ounces). They then show a phenomenal growth rate, the birth weight is doubled in the first week and they increase in weight by about 100g/week up to about 6 months of age. Because of the nutritional burden this places on the lactating queen, kittens should be encouraged to begin eating solid foods from about 3 weeks of age with weaning completed by 8 weeks of age. The solid food offered must be soft, palatable and offered in a shallow dish. As the interest in and ability to take solid food develops, they will reduce their demand on the queen for milk and her production will fall. Ideally the kitten should be weaned onto the food which will form its diet until fully grown.

To be suitable for kittens a food must meet a number of criteria. It must be highly digestible and have a smell, taste and texture which encourages the kitten to eat. Dry food such as kibbles may also be fed as they are high in calories, however it may be necessary to soak them in water or a little milk first. Following weaning, kittens should continue to be fed all they will eat of a good quality prepared cat food designed for growing kittens. Excessive calorie intake, growth rates and obesity do not generally occur in the growing kitten. Since they have relatively tiny stomachs, kittens should be fed small meals at regular intervals. Four or five meals are recommended at eight weeks of age, decreasing to two at six months of age.

Implications for feeding healthy and sick cats

The study of the feeding behaviour of cats has many applications for the cat owner. Odour, texture and temperature of food are important factors in the cat's feeding behaviour and can be manipulated to tempt the problem feeder or sick cat. When feeding the sick cat there are several ways in which the feeding regime can be manipulated in order to tempt food consumption. Offering palatable food with a strong odour will help to initiate feeding, and warming the food to about 35 degrees centigrade should also increase the odour produced by the food. Consequently food that is stored in a refrigerator should be warmed first or at least allowed to reach room temperature before being offered.

When food is left to stand in a dish the odour released decreases during the day making the food less appealing. Therefore with problem feeders offering regular small quantities of a warm palatable food may improve consumption. Increasing the amount of flavours (by feeding different varieties) and textures (dry and canned) in the diet may also increase food intake.

If a special diet is required in the management of a disease condition, it is preferable to introduce it gradually while the cat still has access to its original diet (unless contraindicated on medical grounds). This process allows the cat to become familiar with the new diet and learn that it is safe to eat. However, failure to eat a new diet may be associated with low palatability rather than by unfamiliarity to the food. Finally, as a familiar diet is preferred at times of stress, owners should ensure that an acceptable diet is available for their cat when it is placed in a different environment, such as in a cattery.

Cat Litter Boxes

2010-06-10T12:19:00.004+05:30

Omega Paw Self-Cleaning Litter Box, Large, Green and Beige

The most common reason a cat will not use its litter box...

Because the litter box is dirty - from the cat's viewpoint, not yours. Cats often react to any type of stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litter box. The stress may be caused by a new cat in the neighborhood; children home on vacation; too many cats in the house; your going away on vacation or a new piece of furniture. Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Prevent House Soiling

Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. If your cat continually makes mistakes, the behavior can simply become a habit. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Scolding and then taking the cat to her litter box after she has already eliminated teaches her to associate the litter box with punishment. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats: prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with non-porous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litter box at the other end. Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding elimination schedule. Read more on how cats learn.

The Litter Box

Your cat does not simply need a litter box - she needs a clean litter box with fresh litter. Your cat will be inhibited from using her litter box if it smells of urine. Think about it from the cat's viewpoint. When she soils your dining room carpet, the area is immediately and thoroughly cleaned. Given the choice between a regularly cleaned place and a litter box that gets changed only once or twice a week, your cat will naturally prefer the carpet.

The litter box must be cleaned daily. The old litter must be discarded and replaced with about 1 1/2 inches of fresh litter. Rinse the litter box thoroughly with water. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat's urine. Do not use ammonia; this will make the litter box smell worse.

Make sure that the litter box is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil the areas close to their sleeping or eating areas, so place the litter box some distance away. However, do not place the litter box in an area that is too inaccessible. For example, if the litter box is placed in the bathroom, make sure the door cannot swing shut preventing the cat from getting to it. If the cat is new to your home, she may go into hiding for a few days so place a litter box close to her hiding place.

Some additional factor may be inhibiting your cat from using her litter box, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available.

Housetraining Success: Reward for Using the Litter Box

In order to reward your cat for eliminating in her litter box, you must be there at the time she eliminates. You need to have some idea of when your cat urinates and defecates. Most cats, especially kittens, will eliminate shortly after waking; after eating; and after exercise.

To help you predict when your cat will eliminate, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Before feeding your cat, spend ten to fifteen minutes playing with her. Then put down the food, allow her fifteen minutes to eat and then clear up any leftovers. After your cat has eaten, it is time for another gentle play session. Call her to her litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box, praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is learning that the litter box is a great, CLEAN place to be. This is especially important for cats that are now avoiding the litter box because they assume it is always dirty or because they associate it with being punished. If your cat does eliminate, praise her in a gentle voice. Once she has finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat and take the time to tell her how pleased you are with her behavior.

Cat Vaccinations

2010-06-10T12:08:00.001+05:30

Stop the Shots!: Are Vaccinations Killing Our Pets?

Background

The Cat Group strongly supports the routine vaccination of all cats against major infectious diseases. Vaccination of cats has played a vital role in reducing the prevalence and severity of several feline diseases including some that are associated with a high rate of mortality. Despite the success of vaccination, these diseases are still present in cat populations, and thus a failure to maintain routine vaccination will place cats at risk of contracting disease. Currently approximately one third of the pet cat population in the UK is regularly vaccinated, and the Cat Group strongly believe that a much wider use of vaccination would be of benefit both to individual cats, and to the wider feline population, in further reducing the prevalence and severity of disease.

Despite the success and importance of vaccination, the Cat Group recognises that adverse reactions do occur to vaccines, and that this is a cause for some concern. Nevertheless, serious adverse reactions are extremely rare and the benefits of vaccination far outweigh the risks involved. However, as vaccination inevitably carries some risk of side-effects the Cat Group support the use of discriminatory vaccine policies, where vaccines are not used unnecessarily in individual cats and the risks and benefits of vaccination are carefully evaluated and discussed for each cat.

The Cat Group recognises that recent scientific evidence has questioned the necessity for routine annual booster vaccination of cats against all diseases. It is likely that vaccine-induced immunity, for some diseases at least, will last significantly longer than 12 months, but this will vary between the different diseases and between different vaccines, as well as between individual cats. There is currently insufficient scientific evidence to determine the optimum frequency of vaccination for any individual disease. The Cat Group therefore supports owners being given informed choice both about which vaccine components should be used, and the frequency of booster vaccinations, based on current best evidence.

What diseases can be vaccinated against?

Several vaccines are currently in use in the UK. The following is a brief description of the diseases for which vaccines are available. It should be noted that vaccines for other diseases are available in some countries, but not currently in the UK.

Feline infectious enteritis (FIE, feline panleukopenia, feline parvovirus)

Feline infectious enteritis is a disease caused by infection with feline parvovirus. This virus can be responsible for a severe and often fatal form of gastroenteritis. Affected cats typically show signs of severe vomiting and diarrhoea, but the disease may be so severe as to cause sudden death with no other signs. In addition to enteritis, the virus can also cause neurological disease (brain damage) in kittens infected before or shortly after birth. The virus also affects the bone marrow and lymphoid tissue suppressing the production of white blood cells. In cats that survive disease, recovery can be prolonged. The virus is very resistant and can survive for long periods in the environment. Vaccination against feline infectious enteritis has been extremely successful. Although feline parvovirus is still a prevalent virus, vaccination confers a high level of protection against infection and subsequent disease.

Feline herpesvirus (FHV-1) and feline calicivirus (FCV) – Cat 'flu

Two viruses – FHV-1 and FCV – are responsible for the majority of cases of cat 'flu, or acute upper respiratory tract disease. These viruses are extremely common, and infection results in a variety of signs including sneezing, nasal discharge, conjunctivitis, ocular discharge, mouth ulceration, pharyngitis (inflamed throat), coughing and, rarely, pneumonia and skin infections.

Disease following infection varies from being mild to very severe, and occasionally fatal. Recovery may take from a few days to several weeks, and severe disease can result in permanent damage to the nose or eyes. Following infection many cats remain carriers of these viruses (although they may no longer show any signs of disease), thus acting as a source of infection for others. The viruses do not survive long in the environment so infection is usually acquired through close contact between cats.

Vaccination against FCV and FHV-1 has a major role to play in protecting cats from disease or reducing the severity of disease in cats. However, vaccination does not necessarily prevent infection with these viruses (partly because there are many different strains of FCV), and vaccinated cats can also become carriers of the viruses and pass them on to others.

Feline chlamydophilosis ( Chlamydophila felis, feline chlamydophila infection)

Chlamydophila felis was formerly known as feline Chlamydia psittaci. This is a type of specialised bacterium that causes mainly conjunctivitis in cats. The bacterium is very fragile and cannot survive in the environment, so is transmitted by direct contact between cats. Infection is most common in kittens and young cats from multicat household environments. Infection results in mild to severe conjunctivitis and ocular discharge. Mild sneezing and nasal discharge can also be seen.

Vaccination against chlamydophila affords protection against disease or severe disease but as with FCV or FHV-1 vaccination, the chlamydophila vaccine does not necessarily prevent infection with the organism and thus mild disease can occur in a vaccinated cat.

Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV)

Infection with FeLV frequently results in persistent, life-long infection (also known as ‘persistent viraemia'). Cats that remain infected with the virus generally develop fatal disease. Most will die or be euthanased within three years of being diagnosed with the infection. Persistent FeLV infection causes disease through a variety of different means, but most cats die due to immunsuppression caused by the persistent infection, progressive anaemia, or through the development of tumours (lymphoma) or leukaemia.

FeLV is a very fragile virus and cannot survive outside of the cat for long. Transmission of the virus is therefore by direct contact between cats, and mainly via exchange of saliva. Transmission is inefficient though, and it is thought that prolonged close contact between cats is generally required for this to occur. Infection with FeLV has been controlled by testing for the virus (using blood tests) and removing or isolating infected cats. In recent years, FeLV vaccines have been introduced which offer protection against infection and can therefore be used to protect cats at risk of being exposed to infection. However, vaccination may not protect all cats.

Feline bordetellosis

Cats can be infected with the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica. This is probably most familiar to pet owners as one of the major causes of ‘kennel cough' in dogs. In cats, infection with bordetella most often causes signs of upper respiratory tract infection (sneezing and nasal discharge), although this bacteria has been isolated from some cases of pneumonia, especially in kittens. Infection is more common in multi-cat households and the bacteria can be spread between dogs and cats. Although various studies have suggested quite widespread exposure to bordetella in cats, it is not generally considered to be a common cause of significant disease. Infections are usually self-limiting and additionally will respond well to appropriate antibiotic therapy. An effective intra-nasally administered vaccine is available for cats, and can be used if situations arise where it is considered important to protect cats from infection.

Rabies

Rabies is caused by a virus which, among other effects, attacks the nervous system causing a potentially fatal disease. The virus can infect almost all warm blooded animals but is most commonly found in dogs, foxes, bats, cats and monkeys. Infected animals can transmit infection to humans via bites, as the virus is excreted in saliva.

Rabies is prevalent in many countries, but the UK is rabies-free and quarantine has been used for animals entering the UK to ensure that rabies does not inadvertently enter the country through the transport of pets.

Vaccination can be used to protect animals (including cats) against rabies infection. The recently introduced Pet Travel Scheme (PETS) allows entry of pet animals from certain countries into the UK without the need for quarantine so long as they meet certain conditions which include having the pet microchipped (for identification purposes), having the pet vaccinated against rabies, and having a blood test to ensure the vaccine has given a satisfactory level of protection. Full details of the PET scheme is available on the DEFRA web site: www.defra.gov.uk

What vaccines are available in the UK and how do they work?

A number of different vaccines are available in the UK from different pharmaceutical companies. Most vaccines are very similar although there are some differences.

All vaccines are designed to provoke an immune response against the organism responsible for the disease, such that if the cat is subsequently exposed to the organism, the immune response will protect against infection and/or development of disease. Vaccines may contain the whole organism (virus, bacterium) or only certain proteins from the organism (so called ‘subunit' or ‘recombinant' vaccines). Where only certain proteins from the organism are used, these are chosen because they are believed to be the proteins responsible for producing a protective immune response.

Vaccines may be either killed (containing no living organism) or can be ‘modified live' – containing a live form of the organism that is able to replicate but, by modification, has been rendered incapable of causing disease. Killed vaccines usually contain an ‘adjuvant' – an ingredient that is combined with the killed organism to help stimulate a good immune response. Modified live vaccines do not require an adjuvant as the replication of the organism itself stimulates a good immune response. Live vaccines are generally not recommended for use in pregnant queens and ideally should be avoided in immunosuppressed cats.

Various killed and modified live vaccines are available for feline infectious enteritis and cat ‘flu' in the UK . Currently only a modified live intranasal bordetella vaccine is available, and only killed vaccines are available for chlamydophila and FeLV vaccines are either killed or virus-vectored (contain parts of the FeLV virus inserted into another live virus for the vaccine). Licensing requirements for vaccines in the UK ensure rigorous testing for quality, safety and efficacy before they can be used in cats.

When should kittens be vaccinated?

All the vaccines currently licensed for use in the UK are given by injection – by either the sub-cutaneous (under the skin) or intramuscular route – with the exception of the bordetella vaccine which is given as drops in the nose (and requires only a single dose). Kittens generally require two vaccines given 3 to 4 weeks apart to stimulate a good immune response, and vaccination usually starts at around 9 weeks of age. Following the initial vaccine course, booster vaccinations (single injections) given at regular intervals are recommended to maintain a good level of protection.

The two vaccinations given to kittens are recommended to ensure a good immune response and to overcome the problems of maternal antibodies. Kittens receive antibodies from colostrums (the milk which the mother produces soon after birth). These antibodies help to protect the kittens against infection until their immune system is more mature, and they usually last around six to 10 weeks. High levels of these maternal antibodies will interfere with the vaccine's ability to stimulate a proper immune response from the kitten. A booster vaccination given one year later may enhance the initial vaccine response, especially when immunisation might have been less than optimal due to maternal antibodies.

What adverse effects are associated with vaccination?

Both lack of efficacy and adverse reactions are sometimes reported following vaccination. Such problems are rare and seldom serious, and the benefits of vaccination far outweigh the small risk of an adverse reaction occurring. However, adverse reactions at times can be severe and are therefore a cause for some concern. Mild and self-limiting reactions such as pain or swelling at the injection site, and mild malaise for a short period are not unusual. Indeed, as the purpose of vaccination is to provoke an immune response in the cat, it is inevitable that such reactions will occasionally occur.

In the UK, a Suspected Adverse Reactions (SAR) Surveillance Scheme (SARSS) is run by the Veterinary Medicines Directorate (VMD) for licensed veterinary medicines. Most SARs are reported voluntarily by veterinary surgeons or members of the public when an adverse reaction is suspected following the use and/or administration of a licensed veterinary product (including vaccines). Because this is a ‘passive' or voluntary reporting scheme, it is inevitable that not all adverse reactions will be reported to the VMD and this probably applies particularly to less serious adverse effects. During the period from 1995-1999, there were 2158 SARs reported to the VMD in cats, and of these 835 (39 per cent) were associated with the use of vaccines. Not all SARs are genuinely adverse reactions to the product being used, and causality can be difficult to establish. Nevertheless, even if all the SARs associated with feline vaccines were genuinely as a

result of vaccination, this still represents a very low rate of SARs of about 0.61 per 10,000 doses of vaccine sold. Nearly 50 per cent of SARs to vaccination occur in cats less than 6 months of age (ie, in relation to their primary vaccination course).

Some of the SARs reported following vaccinations in cats (along with their approximate frequency during the period 1995-1999) are:

Lameness/polyarthritis – 18%

Local injection site reactions – 16%

Allergic reactions (anaphylaxis and hypersensitivity) – 9 %

Lack of efficacy – 6%

Upper respiratory tract disease – 6%

Sarcomas – 3%

There is some evidence for a small increase in the incidence of vaccine SARs, but this is difficult to assess as it may be that veterinary surgeons are becoming more vigilant in reporting SARs to the VMD. There is also some evidence that certain vaccines are more likely to produce SARs than others although again, data are limited.

The Cat Group recognises that adverse reactions do occur following the use of vaccines, and further that due to the passive nature of the reporting scheme, the current estimate of SARs based on the SARSS will be an underestimate of the true incidence. Nevertheless, current data demonstrate that adverse reactions are uncommon, and are usually mild and self-limiting in nature.

Severe adverse reactions do occur sometimes, and vaccinesite or injection-site sarcomas (tumours) have been reported in the UK as well as elsewhere. These tumours are aggressive and difficult to manage. In the USA vaccine-site sarcomas have been recognised for a number of years and are thought to occur with a frequency of approximately 1 per 10,000 doses of vaccine administered. Some studies have suggested that rabies vaccines (which are mandatory in the USA ) may be one of the vaccines more likely to be associated with these sarcomas. Since rabies vaccination is not routine in the UK , this may be one reason why these tumours appear to be seen less commonly in the UK than the USA . Such severe reactions are undoubtedly very rare, even in the USA , and the benefits of vaccination clearly outweigh the risks involved. Nevertheless, the risks associated with vaccination should be weighed alongside the benefits in all cats when determining with the owner the type and frequency of vaccination that is most appropriate.

The Cat Group encourage reporting of SARs to the VMD, ideally through the veterinary surgeon involved who can provide valuable additional information. The address of the VMD is:

Veterinary Medicines Directorate

Freepost KT 4503

Woodham Lane

New Haw

Addlestone

Surrey KT15 3BR

In addition to the VMD, any SAR can also be reported to the vaccine manufacturer ‘Yellow Forms' (MLA252A) are supplied by the VMD to veterinary surgeons specifically for this purpose and are available from the VMD web site: www.vmd.gov.uk . The Cat Group would also encourage the development of an active prospective scheme for identifying and classifying SARs associated with vaccination and thus defining their true incidence.

Should all cats be given all vaccines?

The necessity to vaccinate all cats against all the diseases for which vaccines are available has been challenged. The life-style and environment in which some cats are kept means they may not be at risk of exposure to certain diseases. For example, a cat that is kept strictly indoors and is in single cat household has no appreciable risk of exposure to Chlamydophila felis or FeLV infection, as these organisms generally require direct contact between cats for transmission to occur. As vaccination cannot be regarded as an entirely innocuous procedure it may therefore not always be appropriate to use certain vaccines. The American Association of Feline Practitioners has recently suggested considering feline vaccines as either ‘core' or ‘non-core'. Core vaccines would be those whose routine use can be justified in all cats based on the prevalence of infection, the possibility of indirect transmission (ie, not just through direct cat to cat contact) and the severity of disease. ‘Non-core' vaccines would be other vaccines that are potentially very valuable in certain situations where cats are at genuine risk of exposure to the organism, but whose use is difficult to justify in all cats.

The Cat Group supports the discriminatory use of feline vaccines in the UK . Feline infectious enteritis, feline herpesvirus- 1 and feline calicivirus should be regarded as essential (or ‘core') vaccines in the UK , and the Cat Group recommends vaccination of all cats against these viruses. The parvovirus which causes feline infectious enteritis is a very resistant virus (thus indirect transmission of the virus is common) and subsequent disease can be fatal. Both FCV and FHV-1 are very prevalent viruses and although probably mainly transmitted by direct or close contact, these viruses can survive in the environment and indirect transmission is therefore possible. For these reasons the Cat Group recommend routine use of these vaccines. The use of other vaccines cannot necessarily be justified in all circumstances and the Cat Group recommends the use of these vaccines be determined on a case-by-case basis according to individual needs.

The Cat Group therefore supports the 2002 report of the Veterinary Products Committee Working Group on Feline and Canine Vaccination where a recommendation was made that manufacturers market single component as well as multivalent (combined) products in order to maintain flexibility over their use.

How often should we give booster vaccines?

Immunity following initial vaccination may not be life-long, and booster vaccinations are recommended to maintain good vaccineinduced protection. For most vaccines, manufacturers recommend administration of annual boosters (injections) to maintain the immune response. This recommendation has been adopted for a variety of reasons including the desire to ensure that pets are properly protected from disease where possible and the uncertainty (and likely variability between individual cats, between different diseases and between different vaccines) about how long vaccine-induced immunity will last. Additionally boarding catteries frequently require an ‘up to date' vaccination certificate prior to accepting boarders (ie, proof of vaccination within the preceding 12 months).

The 2002 report of the Veterinary Products Committee Working Group on Feline and Canine Vaccination recommended that ‘‘statements be added to the product literature indicating that the regime for booster vaccinations is based on minimum duration of immunity rather than maximum' and that ‘a risk/benefit assessment should be made for each individual animal …so that …an informed choice can be made by the owner with respect to the necessity for a particular vaccine and the frequency of its use'. However the Working Group also concluded that ‘there is insufficient information to propose re-vaccination intervals on product literature other than those recommended by the manufacturer'.

Nevertheless, there are recent studies that have suggested that vaccine-induced immunity for some diseases may last considerably longer than 12 months. This, and other evidence, led to an Advisory Panel Report from the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the American Academy of Feline Medicine on the use of feline vaccines in 1998, with some revisions in 2000. This report recommended that based on current evidence, in general following a first annual booster vaccination, cats should be vaccinated no more frequently than every three years for feline infectious enteritis, and in general every three years for FCV and FHV-1. For other diseases where insufficient evidence existed they recommended annual vaccination. However, they also recommended that ‘vaccination needs of adult cats should be assessed at least once yearly, and if necessary, modified on the basis of an assessment of their risk'.

The Cat Group recognises that there is genuine difference of opinion among clinicians and scientists at present on the necessary frequency of booster vaccination for adult cats. Furthermore, at present there are insufficient data available to determine optimum booster intervals in adult cats. The Cat Group encourages informed consent of owners for vaccination of their cats wherein both the risks and benefits of vaccination as well as the need for vaccination are discussed with owners and advice is provided on the basis of the best available objective data. The Cat Group also supports and encourages further studies to determine the maximum duration of immunity in vaccinated cats to provide additional evidence for future vaccine booster interval recommendations.

It has been suggested that serological testing (looking for the quantity of antibodies present in a blood sample) may be used instead of routine booster vaccinations to assess the need for vaccination. The assumption here is that a booster vaccine would be unnecessary unless antibody concentrations had fallen below a critical level considered to be protective. However, with the exception of parvovirus (feline infectious enteritis) and rabies, there is not a good correlation between antibody concentrations in the blood and protection against disease, and tests for antibody concentrations are not standardised between laboratories. For these reasons the Cat Group urge caution in the use and interpretation of serological testing in cats and do not believe there is sufficient data to recommend this in lieu of vaccination.

Cat Growth

2010-06-05T13:25:00.005+05:30

Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats : Your A-Z Guide to Over 200 Conditions, Herbs, Vitamins, and Supplements

Cat Growth Stages

There is nothing wonderful than having a baby in the family. The step by step development and learning of the new things give the new parents immense joy. You can enjoy the same pleasure and enchantment by looking at a kitten growing up; watching it growing up from a cute and vulnerable creature to gorgeous and graceful young cat will give you the same satisfaction as you would probably get by watching your own child to grow up to become a matured human being.
The Earliest stage in the kittens’ life

If you decide to adopt a new born kitten, you should be prepared to welcome at your home a creature that remotely resembles the gorgeous cats that you are familiar with. A new born kitten is pink little thing, weak and vulnerable.

Kittens are born blind and therefore they are completely dependable upon their mothers for first few days of their lives. Don’t expect from them anything more than eating, sleeping and growing up at a slow pace and mewing whenever they are hungry.
Second phase

The second phase in the life of the cat begins when its eyes are opened and it gets to see the world and its habitats around it.

As it reaches the age of four weeks, it will start trying to explore what lies in his immediate surroundings. It will be great to watch how the gang of siblings moves around in your home with their feeble steps.

This time around the kittens are expected to pick up initial lessons in socializing. By this time around the kitten is also expected learn the use the litter box.

Just like the human babies are to be introduced to the animal protein at certain stage, the kittens also need to be introduced to these kinds of complex foods. Cats are essentially born with hunter instinct and this time around the wild cat mother would bring their kittens small preys. For domestic cats, this is the time for special kitten food or some dry food softened in water or milk.
The infancy

As the kitten turns six to eight weeks old, they are usually fully weaned and take a step into independent living. If it is a feral kitten it will start to accompany her mother in her strolling around in the locality. The indoor kittens become little more adventurous to make movements all over your home.
The time for fast growth

The next few months will see your kitten grow in tremendous speed. This is the time for vaccinations to prevent your cat being infected with several cat diseases.

This is the time when they learn to distinguish between desired and undesired behaviors. It is expected to respond to its name and a few simple commands. Introduce your cat to the grooming sessions from this time onward.
Adolescence

Just like the human children, puberty brings certain changes in your cat’s appearance and behavior. This is the time that calls for patient and tactful handling of your kittens. The adolescence dawns in the cat’s life at the age of five to six months and lasts till it reaches his first year.

During adolescence the cat sometime may display an aggressive attitude. However an early neutering will help your cat to achieve a less stressful adolescence.

By six months it attains the appearance of an adult.
Adulthood

The cats will display the normal growth of adult life. This is a phase normally devoid of any significant problems. This is the time when the bond between you and your pet strengthens even more.

Finding the Right Breed

2010-06-05T13:09:00.005+05:30

The How-To Guide To Choosing The Perfect Dog

Choosing The Right Cat For You

Deciding to bring home a new cat or kitten is very exciting, if not a little daunting. Like all big decisions, it's important to gather as much information as possible. You'll need to consider how your cat will fit in with your lifestyle. Do you adopt a kitten or an older cat? Do you prefer a pedigree or a cross breed? Choose wisely…

Purebred or mixed breed?

Pedigree cats
Around 90% of cats in the UK are moggies, or mixed breed cats and you may be unaware of the huge variety of pedigree breeds available. There are over 60 different recognised breeds and colour varieties of pedigree domestic cat in 7 basic categories: Persians, British, Semi-Longhair, Burmese, Oriential, Siamese and Foreign.

The greatest advantage of buying a pedigree kitten or cat is that you know fairly well what you're getting, although breed temperament is far less predictable than in pedigree dogs. Their appearance and personality is likely to fit the profile of that particular breed. For example, a pure-bred Siamese is more likely to be vocal, mischievous and demanding of your attention. More specifically, buying a pedigree is likely to give you an indication of what size the kitten will grow to, how long the coat will be and any breed-specific health problems likely to occur.

Be aware however, that it's not just size and personality that may be more predictable in the pedigree. Generations of inter-breeding have also led to a greater vulnerability to genetically inherited disease and an increased tendency towards some behavioural issues.

For more information about pedigree breeds, take a look at a good feline encyclopaedia or consult the Breed Selector on this website. The Governing Council of Cat Fancy, www.gccfcats.org, can provide a comprehensive list of breeds recognised in the UK, with links to their official breed clubs. Further information is available on the Feline Advisory Bureau website at www.fabcats.org. You might also consider publications such as Your Cat. Take a look on their website at www.yourcat.co.uk.

Crossbreeds
Crossbreeds have two pedigree, but different breed, parents. These are less common than in the dog world, but some feline crosses are available. In fact, many new pedigree breeds have been created through careful crossbreed matches (for example, the Tonkinese was created by crossing the Siamese with the Burmese). Most crossbreeds available today will be the result of an accidental mating, where a pedigree female has encountered a male from another breed instead of the 'mate' intended. In crosses, it is usually possible to see some behavioural and physical traits from both breeds - for example, a Siamese cross may have a similar physical structure to a Siamese, but might not have the pointed markings. The Siamese nature may also be present, although the traits will be diluted - so the cat may be talkative, assertive and quite headstrong, but perhaps not as demanding as a purebred Siamese.

Mixed breeds
Otherwise known as moggies, these cats come from an entirely non-pedigree background. The most thoroughly mixed of these are categorised as either 'domestic shorthairs' or 'domestic longhairs'. Their primary only minor disadvantage is that you just don't know what such a kitten will grow into - quite what the adult size and coat will be and certain key character traits, for example. But for many owners who enjoy this element of surprise, it's an advantage! Unlike dogs, cats are not that significantly different in size or shape, so you won't be too surprised by how your kitten turns out.

The most significant advantages to choosing a mixed breed cat are health and personality. Moggies are often generally healthier than pedigree animals, as they have a large gene pool to call on and fewer inherent genetic problems. They can also be much more balanced, well-rounded feline personalities. Ultimately, mixed-breed kittens and cats are also generally less expensive, while purebred kittens can be very costly.

If you are concerned about not being able to predict how a mixed breed kitten will mature, why not consider an adult mixed breed cat from an animal shelter? There are many adult cats who are looking for new owners. Being used to home life, they usually adjust and fit in with you and your family very quickly if given the chance. To find out more contact Cats Protection www.cats.org.uk, Blue Cross www.bluecross.org.uk, Battersea Dogs and Cats Home www.battersea.org.uk or the Dublin SPCA.

Cat or kitten?
Few people can resist kittens. They're cuddly, playful, mischievous and inquisitive. At the same time, they demand a lot of vigilance and attention. Are you prepared to invest the time and energy necessary to care responsibly for a kitten?

Adult cats
Adult cats are also playful, but bear in mind that they have spent their formative years in someone else's home, outdoors, or even homeless. Whatever influences have shaped them, their personality is better established and may therefore be easier to read. With some luck, you'll be able to get information from the cat's previous owner - including litter tray habits, food preferences and personality.

Older cats
Middle-aged and older cats are often harder to re-home. However, older cats can make excellent new pets and are more likely to sleep through the night. Common problems such as inappropriate urination or aggression, especially to other cats, are less likely in an older cat who has essentially 'proven' his or her compatibility.

The impact on your family
If your home already boasts at least one cat and you're determined to bring home another, a kitten may cause less social conflict than an adult. If you don't have a cat now but hope to have several eventually, consider adopting one or two kittens who may well grow up together avoiding future friction.

Male or Female?
Provided they are neutered, both males and females make brilliant pets - and there are actually very few behavioural differences between them. For every person who says females are more loving and males are more independent, there will be someone with a loving mummy's boy, or a self-reliant female.

* Generally, males are a little bigger than females.
* Un-neutered toms can present various difficulties, such as wandering, pungent urine spraying and fighting.
* Un-neutered females can be very vocal and difficult to keep indoors when they come into season. They can become pregnant from very early in their lives, and unplanned litters can be costly and difficult to manage.
* Your choice of sex may be determined by any existing cats you have. If you already have a sociable (neutered) male cat, a young (neutered) female may be the best choice for him and you.
* The cost of sterilising a female is greater than neutering a male, and greater still if she is already pregnant. Most re-homing charities will have already neutered their cats before they put them up for adoption.

What to look out for with a pedigree
Once you have found the breed you want and a litter of available kittens, visit them several times before taking one home. Some personality traits appear over days or weeks and help you decide whether a particular kitten would be a good match for your family. Visits can start when the kittens are only a few weeks old, but your kitten must be at least seven weeks old before they can leave their mother. Some breeders reverse the process too, they may want to visit your home to ensure that you can offer a caring and responsible environment.

There are many factors to weigh up when deciding which kitten to take home. Personality, tolerance, activity level and, ultimately, how they integrate into your family are all important.

If a kitten shies back from the group and is consistently unwilling to approach you, they are likely to grow up to be timid and dislike handling. A kitten that repeatedly mouths and claws at your hands may play quite roughly as they grow. Look for the kitten that responds positively, but not aggressively, to your touch or voice and to their brothers and sisters.

Make sure that kittens and cats appear healthy. They should have bright, clear eyes, white teeth with no excess tartar, ears clear of thick brown or black wax, smooth nails, and a thick (depending on breed) and shiny coat without any evidence of fleas. There should not be any signs of a runny nose or watery eyes. Most private owners and some shelters will allow you to take your new pet to a vet for a physical examination before making a final commitment if they haven’t already engaged their own vet for an examination. Your kitten should also have received her initial vaccinations from a vet before you purchase her.

Also consider the social background of the kitten or cat. You may not ever know the parents' identities, but you can certainly ask about the amount of social interaction and handling the kittens have had and it’s wise to choose one that has been brought up in a normal stimulating home environment, so that your normal home holds few surprises for her.

Sadly, feral cats and kittens, such as timid strays found in fields, may permanently bear the effects of poor socialisation. If a kitten acts very fearfully, hissing and trying to escape, assume this behaviour may well take a long time to change, if ever. Noisy, active households are probably not their ideal environment, so consider choosing a friendly, outgoing kitten instead.

Common Breeds

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Common Dog Ailments

Abyssinian

This breed is very active, colorful and muscular. They are medium in size, with almond-shaped eyes of green and gold. Their heads are slightly rounded on top and have long tails. They come in three special breed colors: ruddy (orange-brown marked with dark brown or black), red (warm and glowing spotted with chocolate brown) and blue (ticked with various shades of slate blue). Their coats are soft, silky, dense and medium in length.

Burmese

These cats have stable temperaments and affectionate personalities which place them high on the list of favorite breeds. They are medium-sized very muscular and are a surprising weight for their size. They have ample chests and a tails that taper in proportion to their bodies. Their ears are rounded and tilt slightly forward and their eye color ranges from yellow to gold. Though best known to be rich sable brown, this breed also comes in platinum, champagne and a striking blue.

Egyptian Mau

One of the oldest breeds of domestic cats along with the Abyssinian, they were first imported in the United States from Egypt in 1953. Even though their hind legs are longer than the front, the Mau has a well-balanced body. They have a distinctive spot pattern which applies to all colors: silver, bronze, or smoke and have eyes of gooseberry-green.

Himalayan

This breed is a combination of a Persian-type cat with a Siamese color pattern. They have a body conformation of the Persian and the vivid blue eyes and color points of the Siamese. The color points which consist of their mask, ears, legs, feet, and tail, should be clearly defined against their body color. Color points include seal point, blue point, chocolate point, lilac point, flame point, cream point, tortoise point, and blue-cream point.

Maine Coon

This cat can best be described as a longhair that comes in many colors in most of the traditional cat markings. The color of their eyes varies with the color of their coat. These cats were developed from the inter-breeding of the many cats brought back by Maine sailors from foreign lands. Most noteworthy is their size: they can weigh 16 or more pounds when full-grown. See Picture of Maine Coon to right.

Manx

This tailless cat is sturdy in body and medium in size, with remarkably high hindquarters. They have an extremely broad and rounded rump with definite hollows in the end of their backbone, where the tail would be normally. They have a soft voice, sweet disposition and come in many color and coat patterns.

Persian

This cat’s sturdy body, massive head and flowing coat make it one of the most beautiful longhairs. They have large, rounded eyes that add to their sweet expression. They come in a wide variety of colors and coat patterns. Their long coat carries a full ruff with a short plumy tail. Their ears are tiny, rounded at the tips and tilted forward. They have broad noses and short, strong legs.

Rex

There are two different breeds: Cornish Rex and Devon Rex. The Cornish Rex has a long, narrow head with big flared ears, a Roman nose and arched body. There are many recognized colors and patterns. The Devon Rex has a short, wedge-shaped head and big low-set ears. The body is not arched. Neither the Devon nor the Cornish Rex can tolerate extreme temperatures.

Russian Blue

This cat is long, fine-boned, and muscular. They have long tails, and round, vivid green eyes. Their body color is a bright, even blue. Lighter shades of blue are preferred. They have short, dense, plush coats with a silvery sheen, wide-set eyes, and ears with rounded tips.

Siamese

These cats are long-bodied, long-legged, active cats whose dainty appearance belies their solid, muscular structure. Their wedge-shaped head with large, pointed upright ears and vivid blue almond-shaped eyes gives them an exotic look. They are the most vocal of all breeds and can climb and jump with great ease. The color points which consist of their mask, ears, legs, feet, and tail, should be clearly defined against their body color. The Siamese colors are seal, blue, chocolate, and lilac point.

Buying a cat

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I Just Got a Kitten. What Do I Do?: How to Buy, Train, Understand, and Enjoy Your Kitten

Your main objective when buying a cat is to find a place where cats are healthy, have great personalities, and are treated well. You may have to search around to several different places before you find the best possible place from which to buy a pet.

Some different choices you have are from pet stores, animal welfare agencies, breeders, and yes, even your neighbors. If you know the person who’s selling the cat and know that they treat their animals well, chances are that that person is a good person from whom to buy a cat. It’s important that you trust the person selling the animal.

You should buy a cat that’s at least eight weeks old. If you buy a cat much earlier than that, you run the risk of taking the cat away from its mother too early. You want to buy your pet from someone who recognizes the importance of motherly love of the cats and believes in the over all welfare of the animals. This is another reason that if you can buy from a neighbor or from someone else you trust, that is ideal.

Some breeders and pet stores have the long-standing reputation of being questionable places from which to buy cats. You should check out the history of these places as much as possible, get references, and inspect their facilities as much as you can. You want to look for clean places where the cats can stay, you want to make sure the kittens are plump and seem to be alert and happy. You also want to ask to see the kittens’ mothers and fathers if you can. This will give you a good idea as to what they’ll look like and act like when the kittens are adults.

If you buy your cat from a breeder or pet shop, they should be able to present you with a registered pedigree, record of vaccinations, and worming certificates. These are important documents to have. From these you can tell that the cat has been properly cared for health-wise, and is a pedigree animal.

If you buy your cat from an animal welfare agency, you need to be cautious of vaccinations and the demeanor of the creature. Find out as much about the animal as you cat. You want to make sure it has its needed vaccinations and has no major health problems that you’d be bringing into your home. You also want to find out if it has any behavioral problems. If you don’t think you can cope with the problem, perhaps it’s not the right cat for you.

Multiple cat households

2010-06-04T19:20:00.003+05:30

Animal Reiki: Using Energy to Heal the Animals in Your Life

For many people, a single cat is the ideal situation. However, for others, cats seem to be like potato chips. They can’t stop with just one. This is partly because there are so many wonderful cat breeds and partly because most cats enjoy the companionship of other cats.

Is owning more than one cat right for the cat you already own? If your cat is home alone for long periods of time and seems to be lonely, he may enjoy having another cat around. In addition, an older cat will often develop a new lease on life when a new kitten joins the family. However, cats who enjoy their solitude or are very territorial towards their homes and families may not appreciate sharing their lives with another cat.

There are also a few things for the humans in the household to consider. A new kitten means having to go through all of the frustrations of litter box training all over again. In addition, don’t forget about the expense of vaccinating and neutering your kitten. Adding an older cat to the family can also be a challenge, as the cat will have to adjust to a new home and may develop behavioral or health problems.

Although some people feel that their cats will be more at home with a cat from the same breed, many cats are quite happy to hang out with other cat breeds. Of course, you may want to reconsider pairing a boisterous, clownish Rex cat with a standoffish Russian Blue. Cat breeds with similar traits do better together than cats that are completely different. Of course, the Himilayan Persian and the Maine Coon breeds are so laid back and friendly that they adapt well to life with the most demanding or rambunctious cats.

Before you bring your new cat home, you will need to set up an area for him to stay in while he adjusts. You may even want to put him in a crate, especially if you are unsure whether he is litter box trained. Allow him to settle in for a day or so before you worry about introducing him to the rest of the family.

Instead of placing the cats together immediately, allow your original cat to grow accustomed to the new arrival gradually. For a smooth transition, be sure he does not have to share his own litter box, food and water bowls, or toys with the newcomer. Besides the fact that your cat may not like to share, there are important health reasons for giving each cat his own supplies. You can reduce the chance of your cats spreading diseases to each other and you can more easily monitor the appetite of each cat if they have separate litter boxes and food bowls. Also, cats who are forced to share litter boxes may decide to create their own private litter boxes in other, less convenient places, such as the closet floor.

Of course, there is one major problem with having multiple cats. Once you have two or more cats, everyone with a stray or unwanted cat will assume they can convince you to add just one more to the family.