My apologies.

Cyclopedia Brown

Model: Krysta “Chocolate Girl Wonder”

Artistry by Chandra for Hair & Make-Up: artistrybychandra@gmail.com, @artistrybychan

YouTube Version

THE CAMERA

As a Canon man, I could be biased and tell you all that the only brand of camera anyone thinking of becoming a photographer should get would be a Canon, but I would be misleading you in telling you that. The truth is that there are many great cameras, from brands such as Nikon, Olympus, Sony and a few others.  The main thing you need to know is your needs and options for the type of photography that you wish to engage in.

Price is almost always the number one consideration when thinking of starting out in photography (or anything else). When I was first starting out, I purchased a Canon Rebel XT from a local Target on clearance for about $300. It wasnt exactly a “pro” camera but it did the job relatively well. There are some amazing shooters using “consumer” level cameras like the Rebel today. Starting out I would recommend a camera like this if money is indeed an issue. Most times they can be found in stores like Best Buy, WalMart, Target, etc, but do your homework and find out all the specifications on the cameras you are considering.

If you want more for your money you may also want to look at used cameras. Places like craigslist and ebay have hidden gems weekly showing up. Be patient and wait out the good deals.

But, if you are lucky enough to have no limit to the amount you spend, do yourself a favor and do your research & homework. There are lots of great new models of cameras on the market today. Ask other photographers what they use, especially photographers in your area. I found that having others in my area who also shoot Canon enables me to get tips and borrow things like lenses in a pinch. I couldnt do that if I bought a brand that no one in my area had. Also renting equipment for Canon or Nikon in my area is easily done. Had I bought a Sony I might have some issues. So take things like these into account.

LENSES

The holy grail of photography is not the camera that you have but the GLASS!  Camera bodies will wear down, become obsolete, etc etc., but the Lenses will hold their value over many years. I know photographers who have cheap consumer level bodies with lenses that cost more than 4 times the price of their camera. Why? Because the optics on a professional lens will make that consumer grade cameras images look amazing! But dont worry. Their are many great lenses that wont break the bank and will give similar results.

First you have to know what camera you own or will purchase. Certain lenses are best suited for certain bodies. For instance, if you have a Full Frame sensored camera, a 50mm will give you images that look different than they would on a 1.6 crop sensor camera. So you have to know your camera.

Once you have that knowledge decide on your needs. Will you be shooting in low light situations or using just strobes? Will you be in a small studio or outside on location? Many questions need to be answered when looking into lenses.

With a 1.6 crop sensor camera I would recommend starting off with at least one prime lens. Probably a 50mm. They are cheap and they do well in low light. They will also get you some sharp images! Prime lenses do not zoom so if you have to get closer to your subject in terms of framing, that means you will physically have to move closer.

A pro level zoom is also a recommendation. A 70-200mm 2.8 is the go to lens that many photographers believe can handle most situations adequately. But there are several other options if you dont have pro lens money. Again you will need to do some research.

LIGHTING

Lighting isnt something that you absolutely need, but I do recommend having some form of lighting if you want to shoot video vixens. The reason is that the Urban Eye Candy market is into selling fantasies. Using natural light is a wonderful thing when done properly and can give you some beautiful images. That being said, sometimes you lose a bit of color when you shoot with only natural light. Strobes or flashes enable those camera sensors to really capture all of the colors that natural light can sometimes miss. Of course this isnt true in all cases, but for the most part, if you want colors to have that”pop”, invest in some strobes.

Hot lights (or continuous lights) are okay for some things but they normally don’t deliver as much light as strobes. Again, that “pop” in color comes when your models are exposed to a lot of light.

There are several different types of strobes out on the market. Most of them will need some sort of trigger that will sit on the hot shoe of your camera and remotely tell the lights when to flash. So a trigger will be needed for your camera and a receiver will either be built into your strobe or will need to plug in to it. There are multiple systems that allow you to get the needed results. I have used cheap ebay cactus triggers as well as the mid level Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs(in my kit now) & top of the line Pocket Wizards.

Again do your research and find a system that fits your budget and needs. One light is enough for many situations and there are many tutorials online that will show you how to make amazing images with just one, but if you have money for more go right ahead.

MISCELLANEOUS

There are always small tools that you can use when shooting to make things go more smoothly. Simple things like a microfiber lens cloth help to wipe dust away from your lens. A handheld dust blower also works well for ridding your lens of small particles. On sunny days a hoodman loupe helps you see your screen, and a light meter can help you get the proper exposure when shooting. A nice foldable reflector can help you when you need light.

No matter what your decision will be when purchasing your new starter kit, be sure learn as much as possible prior to putting your hard earned money on the line. Know what you are buying. Ask around if you’re not sure to avoid spending thousands on something that wont work for you.

Hope this helped

~ Cyclopedia

“You don’t need to shoot with any other photographers… Only Me!”

-Random Handucuffer

Photographers can sometimes feel like they have exclusive rights to shoot with certain models. They may feel like, because they were the first to shoot a particular models professional images, or the first to get her published that no other photographer should get to shoot her. Some can even become possessive and jealous.

But, whether its jealously, ego, or just being downright controlling and manipulative, this sort of thing should not have to be tolerated by any model.

Models should shoot with whomever they choose.  A model’s portfolio should show some degree of diversity, and the only way to get that diversity is to shoot with several different photographers who differ in style & creativity.

Models…. If you are dealing with a photographer who wants to keep your name hidden from others when they display your images, or who tries to discourage you from shooting with other photographers, run away quickly! They can only help to slow your growth and career, no matter how good they may or may not be as photographers.

Photographers who post your images on online portfolios without tagging you,  putting your name on the image, or crediting you in some way are probably trying to hide you from other photographers. Be advised!

Im not going to get as long winded as I normally do here. I would just like to point out that in the early stages of Urban Eye candy & Video Vixens, the women who ran the industry were models like Jossie, Big Lez, Melyssa Ford, KiToy, Buffie the Body. There were sprinkles of hispanic models as well, like Gloria Velez, and even Eva Mendez was in a video. The amount of hispanic women in videos reflected the amount of hispanic male rappers and singers(of course we know there are very few hispanic rappers).

Today there are still very few hispanic rappers but the amount of hispanic video vixens has grown exponentially. But its not just hispanic women who seem to be taking over the urban industry, but just “exotic” women in general.

“Exotic” models & video vixens don’t seem to be held to the same standards as Black or Even White video vixens. Just think about it. Many of the exotic models dont have the same thick & curvy figures that we have grown accustom to within the Urban industry. Our last dark skinned superstar was Bria Myles who was extremely thick compared to any of the hottest “exotic” models who held top spots during her time. Since Bria, there have been very few superstars with a dark complexion, and you ca bet that if one shows up she will have some amazing curves.

Meanwhile the exotic women can lack all kinds of curves and just have a nice face. Doesn’t seem fair…

What do you all think?

Short Documentary from a few years ago. Take notice of the lack of Exotic Models.

I have recently spoken with several models, watched twitter dramas unfold, and seen many comments about models and their over photoshopped images. Many of the models who I have talked to about this were upset because they felt that the photographer had robbed them of their natural beauty and given them an unnatural look. What makes the situation worse is when other photographers have to come behind a photoshop happy photographer and make a decision to either continue to physically alter the model, or leave her the way she is naturally. 

It can be quite tempting to follow the leader and make alterations so that your pictures can also receive the same amount of attention that the heavily manipulated images had. It's no secret that men like curvy women, so why not take in a waist here or there, or give a girl the cleavage she never was able to pay for at the plastic surgeon? Or how about the all time favorite of adding booty where there was never booty before. 

Video vixens were given that name for a reason…. It's because, most likely, they will eventually make an appearance in a video at some point. If someone is casting a video and sees a potential video vixen's online body of work. They expect to see that same model walk into their offices or at the audition. You cannot expect to get a part in a video if your body has been photoshopped. Your image is based on a lie that you cannot live up to on a video screen.

Now, as a photographer, I do know that some women actually request these physical alterations and as a business person you have to make  a decision about whether this request should be granted. The answer for me is yes and no. 

I have been hired by magazines to alter women's imperfections in the past for a fee. Lets be honest. No one is perfect. But this magazine knew what the girl looked like ahead of time and was willing to pay to make her look perfect. But in all honesty the final product was never far from the original. These women were beautiful, they just needed some slight enhancements,

The question is, how much is too much? If a model wanted to get in a magazine and wanted me to make alterations to help get her there without the magazine's knowledge, I would have to pass up on the offer. Especially if the alterations she was asking for were going to make her body look a lot different from the way she naturally looked.  

So some models do actually request these alterations, but many of them do not. A lot of times its on the photographer. These guys are taking it upon themselves to make extraordinary enhancements. Pictures are altered so much that girls are having to take down their camera phone pictures or explain to magazines that they aren't actually as curvy as (fill in the blank) the photographer made them out to be. 

When they get called out on twitter or in some other public arena it can be quite embarrassing. 

So photographers & models do yourselves a favor and let it be known that you dont endorse over the top photoshop enhancements!

Phocus, Photographer and owner of the website Artiisaneyes.com, sat down with Sean A. Malcolm to talk about what it takes to make it into King Magazine.

If you check the dictionary for the definition of a Vixen, it will tell you that a Vixen is another word for a female fox, and that a Model is someone who makes a profession out of putting on garments as a display. Of course those two terms have many different meanings to different people. But, it's interesting that there is an outstanding difference in the amount of respect that each of these labels will bring the women who chose to work under them.

If you are lucky enough to be one of America's Top Models (I use this title loosely and this will apply to many of the models who shoot in swimwear and aren't affiliated with urban or the Video Vixen title. This has nothing to do with the TV show), then you will most likely have had to model in some form fitting outfits or possibly a swimsuit and lingerie. We may have even seen you in an ad where you posed with your top off in an implied nude or where you exposed your bare ass. And all of this wouldn't take anything away from the fact that you are respected and get well paid to do your job as a "model". 

However, if you are a Video Vixen and you pose in either, swimwear or lingerie or you pose for an implied nude, you are much more likely to be branded as a "ho" or some other derogatory term that people stamp on women who chose to work under the label "Video Vixen".  And, you probably aren't able to quit your day job with the amount of money you are being paid either.

It's fair to note that I don't have much knowledge of fashion modeling or anything outside of urban, but I do know that they get paid handsomely. I mean there are reality television shows about that portion of the business. Imagine if there were a reality show about urban right about now! I think a lot of people would be embarassed  to show the fact that many of the urban magazines don't pay and many of the jobs in urban don't pay much more than a few hundred dollars.

The fact that urban has remained underground and out of the mainstream allows a lot of nonsensical business practices to go on unchallenged. Video Vixens don't stand up to complain about the unfair treatment much at all. In fact I know a handful of models who have been taken advantage of by men who were able to get girls to pay them to get into magazines for ridiculous amounts of money. The problem was, that they never made it into the magazines. 

So women who wish to become Video Vixens are going to unthinkable measures to put themselves into a business that gives them little rewards. But the lure of the industry is overwhelming. Being able to be desired. Traveling free. Partying free. Being able to be in the videos with the stars. Going to parties with athletes, and sometimes even landing a celebrity boyfriend. To some this may be more rewarding than any paycheck. But this is an industry that has a shelf life well below the normal 15 minutes of fame that performers are used to. Video Vixens can be here one month and gone the next. Also the American Top Models are able to do all of those same things with a paycheck attached.

I still truly believe that in order for video vixens and the entire urban eye candy industry to get respect, we are going to have to demand more from the magazines, the websites, and everyone in the industry. That might mean that models stop doing videos that depict them simply as "ho's". It might mean that magazines demand more quality images from models and their photographers. It may mean that magazines work to get their quality up to par so that they can get the same ad revenue that Maxim and the other men's magazines are getting from big tobacco, alcohol, and gatorade. It may mean that we, the people of urban, have a long way to go.

Before we get respect, we first must be respectable!

So you're looking to get your name known for shooting video vixens. You bought yourself a camera and some lights and got your accounts on Model Mayhem and Facebook making use of your new name and logo (hoping to make it into a business). Now all you need to know are the best moves to make in order to get the right models in front of your lens.

• Shoot the hottest Models you can find (or at least only put the hottest in your portfolios) and if you cant find them, dont shoot them. Many women are competitive by nature. If you make one look good, others will want to try and outdo her. This is why photographers who shoot the hottest women continue to shoot even hotter women in the future. And even when the models could care less about competition, they know that if you have a lot of hot women in your portfolio, that the traffic to your portfolio will be high, thus increasing traffic to their portfolios getting them more fans. 
• Have half decent images. I know this sounds crazy coming from me since I always push that photographers strive for excellence, but the truth of the matter is that you only need half decent images to make it in Urban. So have a basic understanding of light, composition, photoshop (or if you're cheap Gimp), and hope the model doesn't have an eye for excellence… (Side note: I still believe that the best photographers in Urban do strive for excellence which is why they work on contract from the biggest magazines instead of just getting paid from models.)
• Get Published. Getting published in at least one urban publication will get your popularity up fast! Get more than one and you can write your ticket as long as you stick to shooting the right models and having at least 1/2 decent images.
• Put all your accomplishments on Display! This is your jewelry and toolery. You can't get far being humble in this. You have to display your work!
• Make sure your logo or name is displayed on all your images. This should be a no brainer, but I still see images out there with no logo. You might think you have a distinctive style and that everyone will be able to tell your work and distinguish yours from everyone else's, but thats just not the truth. 
• Put Business First! There is nothing worse than getting a bad reputation in any business. Don't deliver images on time?People will find out. Try to screw every model that you come in contact with? People will find out. etc etc. 
• DONT BURN BRIDGES! Again this should go unsaid, but I still hear of photographers ruining relationships with models, magazines, make up artists, other photographers, etc. Learn to have these people help you. Many models came to me through word of mouth. If no one has anything good to say about you, then you will most likely lose some opportunities , so keep your relationships healthy. 

Just keep these things in mind and I'm sure that the models/video vixens will be all over your lens just looking to get shot!!

It is my opinion that the Urban Eye Candy / Video Vixen industry is one where a model can make it a good distance in the game without having representation. However there are times when a well-connected individual, like a manger, could open a few doors for them.

The question becomes “what can an agent do for a video vixen and how much will it cost?”

You should never pay a manager or agent up front to get you published. I mean why would you…. ? Urban magazines are always looking for new urban models. If you have "the look" just submit some hot images. Most of the magazines are easy to get a hold of on Twitter, email, or their websites submissions pages.

A manager or agent should only get paid if you do. If the magazines don’t pay (many of them don’t) why would you pay someone to get you in one? Financially, it just doesn’t make sense.

There aren’t many avenues of information out there to explain the ins & outs of the Urban Eye Candy / Video Vixen business, so many models have no knowledge about how the game should work. This leaves room for con artists to come into the game and get women to pay them to get into publications.

Trust me there are a good deal of con artists in this business, but it has been my experience that these guys seldom deliver on their promises and end up getting away with quite a bit of money in the process before the model becomes any wiser.

Again, there are areas where a manager or agent could actually help your career. Managers are there to negotiate. Sometimes a new model who may not know how much she is supposed to get paid or how to negotiate the terms, could really use someone who will go in there and play hardball with a company or promoter. But again, for magazines this shouldn't be an issue. Also remember that this individual should only get paid if you do, that way there is an incentive for them to work to get you as much as possible. If you pay them up front, there goes their incentive, right out the window!

So, ladies…. Know whom you are dealing with. Don’t be afraid to Google or ask for references from other reputable models. It’s your career and your money on the line.  Don’t throw it away!