To quote John Ruskin.

“It’s unwise to pay too much…but it’s unwise to pay too little.
When you pay too much, you lose a little money…that is all.
When you pay too little…you sometimes lose everything…
because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing
you bought it to do. The common law of business balance
prohibits paying a little and getting a lot…it can’t be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder…its’s well to add something
for the risk you run. And if you do that…you will have
enough to pay for something better.”

We offer good value for money, we’re safe, we’re punctual and most important we care about the work we do for you.

Date: March 2011

Description: The request was to add another sink to this existing small kitchen in order to comply with  the separation of milk and meat products. Duplicating  the basins was easy but we  had to come up with a way to screen off the two basins from each other. Not an easy task when designing for safety. It took us about a week to have the custom shatterproof glass panel built as well as to gather the other materials required. The finished result is fit for purpose.

We had seen another version of a screen a few weeks earlier but it was constructed out of plastic with sharp edges and was glued to the worktop. In no way was it hygienic nor was it removable for cleaning or maintenance. We designed our screen for regular cleaning and it is completely removable if required. The mounting frame can be removed as well.  We also removed the non-functioning dishwasher  while on site and put their existing cloths washer into the empty space to further save them some space. A nice neat job in only a few hours and without having to changing the worktop!

We can do the same for you too! We take all of the worry out of getting the job done safe and quick while making your kitchen look the way you want it to. Ring us now on 0800 612 3626.

The short answer is yes. The long answer is also yes but there are a few items to consider. The body of a double oven whether gas or electric takes up a great deal of space and leaves very little room for the gas pipe work. And don’t forget about the gas isolator! One more thing…don’t use, or let your installer use a flexible gas hose. And finally no matter what I say here, the manufacturers installation guide is the definitive word. They will state clearly what is allowed and what is not allowed as it relates to their product.

We’ve always found mounting a hob over a double oven much more of a challenge than mounting a hob over a single oven. A job like this usually takes about two hours. The reason is that double ovens are taller than a single oven.  Some joinery is involved to remove part or all of the carcass and often there is no space left behind the cooker. This usually means that the gas pipe work and/or electrical boxes must be relocated from behind the oven to somewhere nearby. A bit of a task when the kitchen is already installed! The gas pipe work for the hob must be mounted up high enough to allow the new cooker to fit freely.

Here’s an example of one I created earlier: [[Show as slideshow]]

So as you can see in our photo spread the job can be accomplished without too much mess. Experience counts! Ring us for your next installation.

Date: Mar 2011

Description: Our client had ordered a replacement cloths washer and arranged to have it installed when delivered. This particular driver has used us before and rang to say he couldn’t install for several reasons. The washer hoses and electrical connections were located behind a built in dishwasher that was mounted directly beside the washer and the hot and cold water taps were frozen and could not be turned off. We arranged a call and sorted all of the problems in one visit!

Once we isolated the water we first removed the dishwasher so we could work on the primary job which was to swap out the cloths washer. It was stubborn but we got it removed and the new one installed in it’s place. Once we leveled and squared everything we had to re-drill the door panel as the old hinges did not match up with the old ones.  Job done and looks better than new.

We can do the same for you too! We take all of the worry out of getting the job done safe and quick while making your kitchen look the way you want it to. Ring us now on 0800 612 3626.

Date: Feb 2011

Description: The owners had already purchased these appliances before we came to site. They had decided to replace the gas double oven with an electric double oven as well as replace the gas hob with one in the same. Unfortunately the new double oven was much deeper than the original and did not allow for the running of pipe work or even a cooker connector behind the unit. Our challenge was to remove everything from behind the unit, pipe up the hob sited above and get it all hooked up safely while still follow the current building regulations for gas and electical work. We managed to do all that in a few hours.

We had to cut away the base unit on one side of the cooker to allow us to get to and modify the existing gas pipe work as well as remove the electrical cable that was going to feed the new double oven. All of the messy work and cutting were hidden from view once the cooker was in place.

We can do the same for you too! We take all of the worry out of getting the job done safe and quick while making your kitchen look the way you want it to. Ring us now on 0800 612 3626.

Date: February 2011

Description: This Oldham daycare had ordered and received a new range cooker to replace the old one which they said didn’t work anymore. The old cooker had not been installed correctly either so we took care of that too. We connected up the new cooker along with a new catering hose and restraining cable in keeping with their requirements and tested everything before departing.

We can do the same for you too! We take all of the worry out of getting the job done safe and quick while making your kitchen look the way you want it to. Ring us now on 0800 612 3626.

1. If you haven’t yet unpacked the new appliance move it nearby to the opening where it is to be installed to help you avoid damage to the floor surface.
2. Remove the packaging and clear it out of the way and then untangle the power cable and discharge/waste pipe which are usually coiled up to the rear of the unit.
3. Locate the new filler hose (check to make sure that the rubber washer is in place) which is usually located inside the unit and connect it to the male inlet connector located on the back of the appliance. NOTE: Most washers unless specifically ordered come with only one hose that will connect it to the cold water supply. If your old unit had a cold and hot water connection I would advise capping off the old hot water pipe if it is not to be used. The reason is that most  isolators are prone to leaks after many years. If they leak with the appliance in place it could cause water damage for a long period before it gets noticed. You can purchase a cap with a rubber washer to screw onto the end of the isolator.
4. With the appliance pushed up close to the opening leaving enough room for you to slide into and make the connections.
5. You will need to connect the waste outlet to the same location that the old waste pipe was connected to. Usually connected under the kitchen basin or nearby. If the old appliance waste pipe was connected to a hose connector which had a hose clamp installed onto it make sure the clamp is transferred to the end of the new hose and is tightened.
6. Connect the fill pipe (do not cross thread and check to MAKE SURE that the rubber washer is in place or suffer damage like this) to the cold water isolator and make sure that both ends are tightened. If you have purchased a twin feed appliance you will also need to attach the hot water feed pipe too. Also make sure not to over tighten the connections at either end as the nuts are almost always made of nylon these days and will split and leak if overtightened. Connections should be snug.
7. Before testing your connections make sure that you have a washing up bowl or other way to catch a bit of water if you have a leak or have to disconnect one of the hoses. Also make sue you have some absorbent rags to help if you have a leak. I use old bath towels as rags on a day-to-day basis. They are really absorbent!
8. Once the connections are made it is advisable to turn the cold water supply on SLOWLY and check for leaks. If required do the same thing for the hot water supply. If you have no leaks then move on to the next step. If you have a leak then stop, check your connections and that you have the rubber washers installed and check that connectors are tight and not cross threaded. Once the leak is sorted move on to the next step.
9. You may now connect the waste pipe and the electrical connection and get ready to test the unit before pushing it into the opening.
10. With a final check to make sure all packaging has been removed from inside the unit, all connections made and the water turned on it’s now time to turn the appliance on and test one more time for leaks.
11. Start a wash cycle so that the unit fills up with water. Once the unit is filled with water it’s time to stop the cycle and then set it to drain. You’ll have to read the instructions for each model to find out how to do this.
12. I usually run a couple of fill and empty cycles before I’m satisfied that there are no leakage issues. It’s now time to push the unit into the opening.
13. You must ensure that as you push the unit into the opening that none of the connection hoses or power cable are pinched in between the appliance and the surrounding carcass. You could remove the plinth from below the cabinets to aid you in reaching the hoses and cables and keeping them out of harms way. Don’t skip this step!
14. Slowly work the appliance back inside the empty space until the front of the unit is lined up with the existing cupboard doors. Depending on the type of appliance will depend on what you have to do next.
15. FREE STANDING: If your appliance is free standing then all that is required is to is to put your level on the top and screw the legs up or down to level the appliance. You should also put a level on the front of the unit to make sure that the unit is sitting level from front to back as well as side to side. This unit is ready to use.
16. FULLY INTEGRATED: This type of unit has a full sized door fitted to it so it is completely hidden behind the door panel. The controls are mounted on the top edge of the door and when closed the unit looks like any other cupboard door. These units come with a template to help you find the attachment points and locate the spots to put the screws into place. I always advise a dry run before you start drilling or screwing bits to the panel. Mark everything with a marker and then hold the door in place by hand to judge whether your measurements are correct. If correct carry on and mount your door panel. Check that the door lines up with the doors on either side and that the gap between the doors is the same on both side and parallel from top to bottom. You may have to make minor adjustments with the leveling legs.
17. PARTIALLY INTEGRATED: This unit has a door that mounts onto the front appliance cover but the control panel is still on display. The door panel is mounted using a series of brackets so that the door is attached without any screws showing.  These units come with a template to help you find the attachment points and locate the spots to put the screws into place. I always advise a dry run before you start drilling or screwing bits to the panel. Mark everything with a marker and then hold the door in place by hand to judge whether your measurements are correct. If correct carry on and mount your door panel. Check that the door lines up with the doors on either side and that the gap between the doors is the same on both side and parallel from top to bottom. You may have to make minor adjustments with the leveling legs.
18. If your unit is of the integrated type of unit there is one more step to undertake. The appliance must be securley mounted to the underside of the countertop or worksurface and in most cases there is a spot on the inside of the the dishwasher to mount a side screw through to the carcuses on either side. The installation manual will be the deciding factor as to where the screws go. Please check the manual for your model.

That’s it! You should have a fully or partially integrated dishwasher or a freestanding dishwasher installed, leak free and ready for years of service.

Date: Nov 2009

Description: This kitchen was being made over by the homeowner and his son, a qualified joiner. They started the kitchen with good intentions but ran into issues straight away with the gas. A punctured gas pipe was sorted by National Grid but they sought extra help after that. We came in and after a look decided on the course of action. Gut the kitchen and start again!

The wiring was below standards and for the most part unsafe. The floor joists were rotted almost completely through in places and the floor was not level. The boiler pipe work (gas and plumbing) were poor and all pipes were in the wrong spot for the new layout they had designed.

Once the old room was stripped out we removed the kitchen electrics from the house ring main and made the old ring safe. The new kitchen ring and cooker circuit were added and then we moved on to the gas and plumbing. The old boiler pipe work was solid but ran around in circles above and below the floor. As the floor was removed to replace the timber we re-ran the plumbing and gas pipe work so it more easily hidden in the new layout. We also installed a plinth heater hooked to the boiler as they had no room for a radiator in the new layout.

Once the room was skimmed we  finished installing and testing all of the electrical circuits and then came back a week later to complete the plumbing which included fitting the basin, washer hookups and all the waste pipe work. The electric oven and hob were the final touches for us. We left the homeowner to finish the joinery but were always there to support and give guidance to make sure that the kitchen looked great when complete.

We can do the same for you too! We take all of the worry out of getting the job done safe and quick while making your kitchen look the way you want it to. Ring us now on 0800 612 3626.

1. Make sure that the type of appliance you are purchasing is the same dimension as that you are removing!
2. Check to see if the old dishwasher uses hot and cold water feeds as most ‘A’ Rated appliances use only a cold water feed. You may require a Y-adapter if one is not included with the new appliance.
3. If the kitchen has a plinth beneath the cabinets remove it at this stage.
4. You may need to cap off the old hot water feed as the washing machine taps are sometimes seized from lack of use and will leak continually after turned to the off position. Prepare in advance.
5. Make sure that the flexible waste tube, water pipe and plug can all be removed easily. Sometimes you’ll find that the power cable for example has been pushed through a small hole and wired up on the other side of a cabinet. If you cut the plug off a new appliance to push it back through a tiny hole the warranty may be void.
6. BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT ANY WATER HOSES – make sure you know where the main water stop cock is for your home and test it to make sure you can turn the water off in the event an unplanned event occurs such as the valve breaks or won’t fully stop the water flow. IT HAPPENS ALL THE TIME! Make sure that the appliance is switched off and unplugged. Also, make sure you have some absorbent rags and a pan to catch the water that WILL be left in the hoses when you disconnect. Also, if the machine valve won’t fully stop the water the pan can be used to save damage to your units.
7. Disconnect the drain hose first as there is usually no issues with this part of the job. Drain excess water into your pan.
8. Close the cold (and hot) water machine valve located where the dishwasher hose is connected under your sink. Very slowly loosen the hot and cold water hoses. There will be a bit of water left in the hose so expect some water to flow out. If however when you start to loosen the hose there is a lot of water that is seemingly under pressure then the valve may be faulty. You should make sure the main stop tap to the house is off and you can also open the sink taps to try and alleviate the extra pressure. if the water doesn’t slow down then re-tighten the connection and call a plumber as the valve may be faulty.
9. If you have the hose removed with no leaks then you can start removing the dishwasher unit.
10. The first step is to open the door and remove the wooden door panel. There are usually two or four screws which go through the dishwasher door and extend into the wooden cupboard door. Also, there is almost always some form of jig that holds the door into position and aids in taking the pressure off the screws.
11. With the door removed you will need to locate and remove the two screws that hold the unit to the counter top. These screws will be located in the top of the door frame or just under the lip of the counter top. There may also be two screws that extend through the side of the dishwasher. These screws will also be located in the dishwasher door frame and hidden under plastic or rubber caps.
12. With the screws removed the legs will need to be screwed back up into the dishwasher which in turns lowers the unit. Some units have four legs which need to be screwed up (up clockwise / down counter-clockwise) and some have two legs in the front which are screwed up manually and the back legs are moved by using either a special tool or a screwdriver to a slot on the bottom front of the unit.
13. When the unit has been lowered enough to pull it out put an old piece of carpet (carpet side down) or thick drop cloth onto the floor to drag the unit out onto so that the legs don’t scratch the floor.
14. With the unit almost out start to untangle and remove the hoses from the cabinets and fully remove the dishwasher.
15. Get the dishwasher out of your way so that you can freely install the new unit.

Next time we’ll discuss installing a built in dishwasher.

Date: May 2009

Description: The owners of this semi detached investment property had a simple request. Could we remove the small kitchen from the back of the property and relocate it to the large front bedroom and then turn the old kitchen into a bedroom. The short answer was yes. When you undertake to move a kitchen however there are many issues to sort out but the main ones are around access/egress, the electrical and the gas. We would have to remove the existing back door from the old kitchen and install a new one to the new kitchen. The electrics were also not up to the job and required an upgrade to the consumer unit and complete wiring of the new kitchen. The gas pipe work also had to be removed and re-routed.

Other considerations were the plumbing and drainage which had to be removed from one room and added to the new one as well as the boiler controls which were also present in the old kitchen. As with any job that involves a consumer unit upgrade we also had to upgrade the lighting in the bathroom area and the new kitchen lighting was also replaced with lighting of the proper type and the earth bonding had to be upgraded.

There was a lot of work involved but the finished result was a cozy bedroom facing a beautiful backyard that is quit and private and the new kitchen now has ample daylight from the large window space overlooking the front garden which is also well kept. It was a lot of work but the end result added a great deal to the property which was rented within a week.
[[Show as slideshow]] ]]> http://www.appliancesfitquick.co.uk/2009/05/22/kitchen-and-bedroom-swap/feed/ 0 nonadult