If problems continue, then try the search engines Bing or Yahoo – type in Aquarists Online, or Marine Aquarium Blog, or www.aquaristsonline.com. There it is, no problem.

Eventually the Google thing will be sorted out. In the meantime, I’ll just continue to growl!

Yes, I know, here I am trying to give assistance on Aquarists Online to those who can’t find Aquarists Online…….say no more!

The marine aquarist builds and stocks the aquarium to produce a beautiful and absorbing picture, lovely fish gliding among wonderful corals. It seems simple enough.

After a while when the aquarium is well established, stable and particularly where live rock has been used algae appear. This is hopefully decorative and desirable, of various colours and shapes. The leaves themselves can be interesting, some soft and small and others large and rigid. It all adds to the overall picture.

Why does algae appear that is not desirable when all the equipment was carefully chosen?

The basic answer is food. All living things require food and if it is not available or is insufficient the life form will not survive or even appear. Algae, particularly the undesirable stuff, requires nitrate and (maybe ‘or’?) phosphate – if this is sufficient then the yukky stuff will prosper. It usually takes the form of long stringy or bushy green clumps that attach everywhere and/or dark blue green mats that spread over nearly everything. The latter is often referred to as slime algae.

So food has been mentioned. Removing the food should remove the algae. This is correct though the algae, particularly the hairy green stuff seems to be particularly resistant and hangs on a while. It has to give up eventually though.

First, two test kits should be used to determine the level of food, a better word is nutrients, in the seawater. The two tests are nitrate and phosphate. Some just use the nitrate test and, if overfeeding is avoided, phosphate hopefully will not be a problem. If problem algae is present then it is likely that the test reading will be high. The guidelines suggest nitrate should be less than 10ppm (parts per million) for a reef system and less than 30ppm for a fish only system. Phosphate should be hopefully shown as zero on the test, or not more than 0.03. The levels should always be as low as possible.

So how is the nutrient supply controlled? First checks need to be made. Is the aquarium overstocked with fish? If there are too many fish for the seawater gallonage then fish wastes along with the necessary fish feeding are not going to be helpful. Overstocking must be avoided. Feeding the fish is pleasurable, but excess feeding must be avoided – when the fish start to lose interest, stop feeding. Unused fish food adds nitrate and phosphate to the seawater. Additionally there is the practice of routine seawater changes – in this case the guideline suggests 10% of the net gallonage (including sump) of the system per week. The amount of seawater change can be increased to speed the arrival of good nutrient free seawater but should never exceed about 25% of the net total volume except in an emergency. Excessive ‘raw’ new seawater can sometimes have an adverse effect on corals and sensitive fish.

When preparing seawater for a routine change it’s worth considering using reverse osmosis (RO) water. RO water is produced by running tapwater through carbon and then a very fine filter. Pollutants are nearly all removed and the water is as clean as possible, usually 95 to 98% pure. Using RO water for evaporation top-ups is also worthwhile. RO units are not particularly expensive and can be purchased in various ‘gallons per day’ sizes so that demand can be matched.

Once stocking, seawater changing and feeding are considered acceptable then the aquarists’ watchword ‘patience’ comes into play. Clumpy and stringy green algae can be removed to an extent by wrapping it round a stick by twisting but care needs to be taken that damage to the reef structure is not caused. This practice needs to continue until there is no more removal possible. Smear algae does not like excessive seawater movement so it follows that seawater movement needs to be checked and increased if found insufficient. The guidelines suggest 10 times per hour the net volume of seawater (excluding sump) for a fish only or soft coral system, and at least 20 times per hour for a reef of hard corals. If smear algae seems to be mostly in one area then seawater movement could be increased to that area by the careful adjustment of powerheads, always being careful not to directly point a powerhead at corals. When partial seawater changes are being done then some of the smear algae could hopefully be siphoned out and disposed of.

Some of the algae that is present could well become loose and float about or lay on the bottom. As this algae rots it releases nutrients back into the seawater so it should be siphoned out and disposed of.

Another item to check is lighting. Lighting should be regularly changed, be it fluorescent or metal halide. The manufacturer’s recommendations should always be noted, but generally one year is enough for a tube or bulb. Particularly with tubes, changes are required because of power loss (meaning less light penetration) and spectrum shift. Corals in particular require a certain spectrum of light to prosper, as the tubes/bulbs age the spectrum alters and this starts to be lost. Tubes could begin to emit more light in the ‘red’ area which would be of benefit to problem algae.

Consideration should also be given to the amount of time the lighting is on. Generally, the lighting seems to be on between 8 and 12 hours a day with marine aquarists, particularly those with a reef system. The lighting time should be minimised to the time that equates with healthy corals. Having lights on say 15 or more hours so that the aquarium can be viewed for longer is not good. It’s better to alter the lighting timing so that the aquarium is viewable without excess lighting hours.

Though there will be a protein skimmer in operation (there should be!) double check that it is adequate for the amount of seawater it has to deal with. The skimmer should be regularly checked and cleaned of the brown scum that collects particularly in the throat. An adequate and correctly functioning skimmer removes much of the disolved organics in the seawater.

There are methods of combating excessive nutrients in seawater using apparatus or using algae itself in a controlled environment. However it is far better to control the nutrients by good management practices.

So the battle against unwanted algae is a question of management. If the areas suggested are targeted then in time the algae will surrender. ‘In time’ is important because nuisance algae will not go away overnight – the aquarist needs to give time in the battle and be patient.

There are many parts to a marine system and much time is spent researching to get the equipment right. Once the system is together more time is spent trying to ensure that the livestock is compatible with the aquarium size and system type and also they’re happy with each other. There is one part of the system that creates more trouble than any other and that is the seawater.

Assuming that the system is well thought out and set up and also that stocking is correct it could be thought that everything will now be relatively straightforward. There’s routine maintenance to be completed and everything should be rosy. So it should be and there should be many an hour spent watching the aquarium. This is proper progression but unfortunately there could be problems, even major ones that arise particularly with newcomers to the marine hobby. Much of this trouble is with the seawater.

High quality seawater is the number one requirement whether the marine system is mixed reef, corals only or fish only. The need for high quality is because the livestock are constantly in touch with it, breathe from it and depend on it. If the quality reduces excessively then corals will close and fish will begin to lose their bright colours and vitality.

The highest seawater quality is required with coral only and mixed reef systems as corals will not tolerate reduced quality well. The coral only system seawater is fortunately the easiest to maintain, followed by mixed reef and fish only in that order. So there’s the clue. It’s mainly to do with fish.

Corals do not have a major impact on seawater quality but fish do and the higher the number the greater the impact. Once fish are placed in the aquarium the seawater begins to deteriorate. This is because of the natural bodily processes of the fish. Therefore it’s important not to overstock and the reason maximum fish stocking guidelines exist. The stocking guidelines suggest a lower fish loading for a mixed reef system than a fish only one to protect the needs of the corals.

Fish also have another requirement that brings pressure to bear on seawater quality. Like all living things they need food. This food can be anything from de-frozen fish to flake. Many beginners overfeed as they are concerned that the fish get enough. This attitude is to be applauded of course, but sadly it often leads to trouble. There could be excessive algae or even an algae invasion where everything becomes coated with the stuff. Some algae are good and decorative and welcome, but not the ones that cover with a green hairy coating. It is probable that the great majority of marine aquarists, experienced or not, overfeed their fish to an extent because it is nearly impossible to ensure that every morsel is eaten. Some of it goes into rocks for example. However, particularly in very mature aquariums it’s likely that the tiny life forms that dwell in the rocks benefit from this small overfeed and reduce its impact on the seawater.

So the aquarist wants a vibrant healthy and colourful aquarium. The livestock want high quality seawater (corals of course want suitable lighting which is a close second to seawater quality). A happy aquarium and aquarist are quite easily achievable.

Whatever type of seawater that is used in the aquarium – natural or mixed from dry powder – it will deteriorate. The first action to combat this is to carry out routine seawater changes. The guideline suggests 10% of the net gallonage (including any sump) weekly. This can be varied once the aquarist knows the seawater trends but routine changes should continue even if decreased. Completing routine seawater changes removes some unwanted nitrate for example and freshens the seawater introducing some replacement trace elements.

The second action is to test. The major tests are:

pH to ensure the alkalinity of the seawater is stable and as it should be. The natural trend for seawater in an aquarium is to acidify which means the pH goes down. The pH should be checked in daylight, meaning the lights are on, and produce a reading of between 8.0 and 8.4. The readings shouldn’t vary with these figures but should be reasonably stable on one.

Salinity should be stable and have little variance. The measurement could change because of salt creep or evaporation. With small systems manual daily top-ups should suffice. Larger aquariums could make use of automatic topping up mechanisms. The guidelines suggest for systems containing corals a measurement of 1.024 to 1.026 and for fish only systems 1.020 to 1.022. The lower one for fish is because it’s believed that some fish parasites do less well at these lower figures. However, fish will not suffer at the higher figures given for corals.

Ammonia and nitrite are very dangerous and can kill. Therefore the readings for both should always be zero. It’s important the bio-filter is properly matured to ensure the bacteria are able to deal with these toxins.

Nitrate in excess is bad as it is a known nutrient for nuisance algae – the horrible hairy green stuff and others. The guidelines suggest 30ppm (parts per million) or less for fish only systems and 10ppm or less for those containing corals. The nitrate levels should be as low as possible.

Temperature has an effect on the metabolism of the livestock in general. The reading should be stable and the guideline suggests between 75 and 80degF.

Feeding has already been mentioned. Feeding the fish is a pleasure and it’s good that it is. However, the fish will eat more than they need – in the wild they don’t know when the next meal will be found so they will stuff in as much as they can. It’s believed that they could even   excrete half digested food in order to do this. Once fish are settled in the aquarium they will often rise begging for food and the inexperienced could believe they need more. Excess food is going to lower the seawater quality so overfeeding needs to be avoided. Resist any begging and cease to feed as soon as the fish show signs of a reduced desire to eat.

Seawater quality could include other tests particularly in some coral only and mixed reef systems. Consideration of these has been excluded as the aforementioned forms the major basis for high quality unpolluted seawater. The aquarium and aquarist should be happy once the discipline of seawater quality maintenance has been achieved.       

It was puzzling and a bit of a battle to get to the prepared aquarium position – what size aquarium, what lights (will there be fish or corals as well), what bio-filtration, what if any additional filtration will there be, what pumps for circulation (will the water move enough), will there be a sump (is a sump needed), if a sump what about the sump pump, what goes in the sump?… and on.

The new marine aquarist has done the research for the above and has got to a successful conclusion. It took time but here’s the livestock. Doesn’t it look great! Now it needs to be kept that way.

Looking at some comments on the internet and reading some marine books it seems the task faced by the new marine aquarist is to obtain a specialist doctorate! This isn’t the case of course, as keeping a marine aquarium is quite straightforward but can be confusing. Temperature, pH, buffering systems, phosphate, nitrate, ammonia, nitrite, redox potential, gilvin, carbonate hardness, alkalinity, copper, silicon, nitrification, denitrification, trace elements, salinity, reverse osmosis, foam fractionation, ultraviolet radiation, carbon and on… the list seems endless. Some of the terminology is closely concerned with other terminology. However, there isn’t any need for deeper knowledge to begin with it can safely be kept quite simple.

The task facing the aquarist is to keep the livestock in good health, by doing this there will be enjoyment and not disappointment. Knowledge will grow on demand as experience itself grows.

The livestock are in the aquarium, or are in the process of being slowly introduced. This means that the biological filter is sufficient for its task, the lights are as required as are the heaters, the seawater pumps are adequate for the livestock and seawater gallonage – well, all of this type of thing has been decided and done.

The need now for the aquarium is basic maintenance. This includes cleaning the viewing glass of algae, keeping mechanical filters efficient and the like. The major effect on the livestock though is seawater quality.

When the seawater first goes into the aquarium it is first class being clean and just as required. However with livestock present and in the confines of an aquarium it deteriorates. High quality seawater is the number one requirement for both fish and corals (corals need correct lighting, this is a close second). So it follows that a major part of maintenance is to maintain seawater quality.

The first in the list is stable salinity. The aquarist will have discovered the required salinity range for the livestock and applied it, but this could change because of ‘salt creep’ and perhaps evaporation. So by the use of a simple hydrometer the salinity is easily checked. This check is best made after a routine seawater change, the guideline for this change is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly. The new seawater should be heated to the aquarium temperature. Any alteration to salinity should be done very slowly so as to not adversely affect livestock.

Temperature is next, this one is easy. The heaters employed should maintain an acceptable temperature even with a small variation because of thermostat sensitivity. Simply check the aquarium thermometer.

The next check is pH. This gives the level of alkalinity of the seawater, but as far as the test is concerned the aquarist only needs to complete a daylight test (lights on) and note that it is between 8.0 and 8.4 and stable.

With a new aquarium the biological filtration is obviously also new. Because of this it could be unstable and still adjusting to the bio-load. The bio-filtration deals with two dangerous items in the seawater, ammonia and nitrite. Therefore these are tested for and the result should be zero. The bio-filtration produces a third unwanted presence and this is nitrate. Nitrate is not dangerous as are the aforementioned two but in excess can cause problems. One cause of excessive nitrate is overfeeding, a common beginner’s error. The guideline for nitrate in a fish only system is less than 30ppm and in a reef less than 10ppm. The level should be as low as possible.

If corals are present then it could be a good idea to test for calcium. Why ‘could’? There are some aquarists who keep soft corals who never test. They carry out regular routine seawater changes and the corals are fine. Calcium is being supplied with the new seawater (routine seawater changes could supply sufficient calcium for a particular demand, but this cannot be just accepted as more could be needed). With hard corals calcium should be tested for. The level should be around 420 to 450 ppm (parts per million) though some aquarists maintain around 480ppm. The new aquarist may prefer the generally more forgiving soft coral varieties. Calcium is used by other aquarium inhabitants if present such as snails etc. A reasonable calcium level doesn’t do any harm.

So there we are – six necessary tests with maybe another needed. The tests are quite simple and quick to execute. Keep the seawater quality high and the health and colours of the inhabitants will reflect it. Tests should be completed very regularly with a new aquarium, particularly ammonia and nitrite. Once stocking is fully completed and tests show that all is acceptable for say a further month then weekly testing can follow.

If any test shows a disparity then it needs investigating. Finding out how to make a correction becomes easier as time passes and the aquarist develops a ‘feel’ for the aquarium and the different requirements it has.

After some time if the marine aquarium bug really does bite it is unlikely that the initial simplicity will remain. When topics are read curiosity rises and a ‘maybe I could do that’ thought is generated, more knowledge develops and, well, it’s good. Above all else, the livestock should always be the number one consideration.

It’s taken quite a while and there have been quite a lot of decisions to make. Before those decisions could be made research has been needed which probably meant the purchase of a good hobby book which in turn threw up a lot of questions. Thank goodness for the internet, a massive resource for information.

The decision on whether it will be a reef or fish only system has been made as well – of course it has, how else would the decisions on some of the equipment be made such as lights? So there the aquarium sits, full of seawater, all equipment running. The biological filter has been started and tests indicate all is ready. Seawater testing must continue through the stocking period and beyond of course. The new aquarist is nearly overcome by the desire to obtain livestock. Hold on a little longer though, the whole point of the system is to see healthy marine life so let’s not make a mistake with it.

Correct stocking means slow stocking with the correct species and this has to include consideration for further stocking later which means the first fish need to be compatible. There are fish available that are suitable for beginners and will not cause undue problems in the future. They are generally hardy and will forgive some novice errors which are often to do with seawater quality.

What if the system is to include a reef? The same thing applies: the corals need to be compatible and not a negative for the future and also be hardy (in marine terms). Though it is not absolutely necessary, it’s best to place corals in first and allow them to settle for a while so that they have the best quality seawater without the contaminating influence of fish. In addition corals usually arrive on a rock and this rock has to be fitted into the reef. This could raise the need to move or even remove rocks and new fish would be further stressed by this action. There are corals that are suitable for the beginner and could very well be enough for the future as they display beauty and interest together and individually. On the basis that corals are strictly best in first what is available?

The best corals to consider are those that are generally termed as ‘soft’. These corals come in various forms and there are many types. They provide a lovely reef scene and many sway in the seawater currents and make a lovely picture. The size of the aquarium needs to be considered to ensure individual coral types are suitable and also how many different types are required. Corals have a low impact on seawater quality, far less than fish, so that is one potential problem less. They should be firmly placed so they don’t fall later and have plenty of room for expansion. Corals should not be in direct line with a powerhead output. Some of the corals mentioned can be trimmed (‘fragged’) if they become too large, producing a new coral.

The first coral type is the finger coral (properly known as Sinularia sp and Lobophytum sp). As the name suggests they usually have a main stem attached to a rock with branches above which in turn carry smaller branches which hold the polyps. This is not always the case though, some are low level. One of these low level types is Sinularia dura which is possibly the hardiest of all but still lovely.

The toadstool corals (properly called Sarcophyton sp) have a thick stalk crowned by a flat head covered in extended polyps. They are quite unique in appearance and interesting to include.

Mushroom corals (properly known as Rhodactis sp and Discosoma sp) are a little similar to the toadstools but much lower. They are attached to rockwork by a short stalk and have a circular head. The head is usually of a rough appearance but not always. They usually form groups.

Button polyps (properly known as Zoanthus sp) are a grouping of polyps that appear similar to flowers in a vase. The heads are much smaller than the previous corals. They can spread and are usually constrained by the size of the rock(s) they can colonise. They are an excellent addition to a reef.

That’s a good start for corals so what about fish? They need to be compatible with corals and each other. Before a few fish species are considered let’s look at damsel fish. These are small, active, hardy and colourful. Some, even occasional dealers, still suggest them to ‘run in’ a new aquarium – this is wrong, maturation fluid should be used if required. Very important, damsel fish are generally territorial and aggressive. If they are placed in an aquarium first they will see the aquarium as their territory and could harass or attack later additions even those bigger than themselves. This could lead to the later fish being afraid to come for food resulting in poor health or death. So avoid damsel fish. If one must be had, introduce it to the aquarium last so that other fish are settled and ensure the other fish are sturdy and not easily picked on.

The first fish in this short starter list is the firefish (properly known as Nemateleotris sp). At first sight this fish species appears delicate but they are reasonably hardy and are best kept as a pair. They could grow to about 3”. Probably the best known firefish is Nemateleotris magnifica.

Another interestingly shaped and coloured fish is the bicolour blenny (properly called Ecsenius bicolor). This can also grow to about 3”. It moves from rock to rock and mainly stays in view, and could stop at a particular point for a while.

Now for the gorgeous royal gramma ( properly called Gramma loreto). This fish is a little larger and could grow to near 4”. It is beautifully coloured and a definite plus.

A fish that most would recognise is the so called common clown (properly called Amphiprion ocellaris). These could grow to about 3”. This clownfish bears the colours that signal ‘marine’, it is very attractive. Two could be kept. These fish are being widely commercially and home bred. It’s reported that the aquarium bred ones are more hardy than the reef caught ones, so it’s a very good idea to obtain the aquarium bred type. On the wild reefs clownfish live with anemones but this should not be attempted by the beginner. Keeping an anemone is not as easy as might be thought as experience is required. Common clownfish – particularly the aquarium bred ones – should be quite happy without an anemone.

If the aquarium is ready for stocking that is all is operational and the biological filtration is ready, the suggested corals and fish (or some of them depending on the size of the aquarium) should give a colourful and interesting foundation. They are reasonably hardy and are able – within reason! – to tolerate small errors beginners are likely to make. If the aquarium is big enough further fish and/or corals can eventually be added after research has confirmed that they are fully compatible with existing stock.

There’s something missing from this text – pictures. If the aquarist types the proper name into a search engine then a whole host of choices will appear, including pictures and care.

Maybe a friend’s aquarium or some in a dealer’s have been seen and they are so good – good in more than one way, they are relaxing and the aquarium world is very interesting.

A marine aquarium doesn’t build itself of course; they have to be constructed in such a way that the type of aquarium is properly supported. Without this there are going to be problems and that’s not a pleasure. So there’s a general procedure that should be followed.

Are you willing to give the time? This might seem strange as it’s obvious that putting an aquarium together takes time. The construction stage is fine, the enthusiasm of ‘newness’ is there and the potential aquarist is bubbling over in the desire to get on with it. It’s not only in the initial stages that problems could arise however, it’s later on. There’s weekly maintenance that needs to be done month in month out year in year out. It doesn’t seem problematical at first but it can be when enthusiasm has waned somewhat. So starting a marine aquarium should never be an instant decision – the very fact that livestock are present demands consistency.

Have you the space? Normally the largest aquarium that will fit is chosen, this is the natural choice as big is seen as better. It’s true that a large aquarium has the greater initial visual impact but smaller ones can also be very beautiful and interesting as can be found by browsing the internet. The aquarium shouldn’t be too tight a fit as it could be necessary to get round the sides for maintenance. Mentally picture the aquarium in place – could maintenance be reasonably easily accomplished? There needs to be a power outlet close to the aquarium and this should be accessible once the aquarium is in place. Don’t forget that the aquarium is going to have to stand on something so perhaps a cabinet is required? A sump is a good idea so to  avoid any impact on space could one go in the cabinet beneath the aquarium? Consider the construction of the floor – seawater plus rocks plus aquarium equals considerable weight. Will the floor support it?

What type of aquarium will it be? There are three types, fish only, corals only and mixed reef (fish and corals). This choice has an impact on the equipment that is needed, for example corals need special lighting.

How about the cost of purchase for the equipment? This really is important as mistakes could lead to corner cutting – not the way to start! There is the aquarium of course and any sump that will be used. There could be overflow holes required in the aquarium – will this be DIY or done by a dealer? There is the cabinet if required. Consider the amount of sea salt needed for the initial mix, it isn’t cheap. Then there is the necessary electrical equipment such as sufficiently sized heaters, circulation pumps, the return pump from the sump, canister filter(s) or live rock, a correctly sized protein skimmer and lights plus two timers. Then there are the test kits to monitor the seawater condition. A good way to obtain a general guideline of the cost is to make a list of the needed items then price them from sources on the internet, a magazine or a local dealer.

How much will the livestock cost? The local dealer should have various corals and fish which will permit a guideline to be obtained. This will not be accurate as decisions on what types have not been made but at least knowledge of the general cost of various types can be obtained.

How much will it cost to run? Feeding the livestock is not costly. Sea salt is needed for routine weekly partial seawater changes. Test kits will need renewing from time to time. There is the electrical cost which is easy to estimate if a list of required items has been made. These items each have a wattage (W) – add these up. This will come to part of a kilowatt or a number of kilowatts and a part per hour. The cost of a kilowatt (1000 watts) will be known so the daily, weekly etc cost can be determined. For a day just multiply by 24 and so on. Heaters  and lights will not be on all the time so divide the wattage by two for these for estimate purposes.

Is it all too expensive? There’s no need to give up yet. Consider a smaller aquarium. This will reduce the cost of nearly everything. However, new purchase and running estimates need to be considered to be sure, if it is still too expensive or if there is a doubt, don’t start.

Is everything acceptable? Wonderful, the initial stages are complete, the aquarium, cabinet and any sump can be obtained plus other equipment. Some more research will be needed to ensure that the equipment purchased is suitable for the aquarium size and the job it has to do.

Marine aquariums are supposed to be relaxing, the stuff above doesn’t look like it! Marine aquariums are most definitely relaxing – and exciting, and beautiful. That of course is when they’re finished and settled. They won’t be finished and settled if not set up correctly, so they will not be beautiful and definitely not relaxing. The aquarist will face stress because of problems. It isn’t necessary to have every bell and whistle available but the aquarium must have the basic adequate necessities.

There are two important words for marine aquarists and these are research and patience. The above are the first steps which should give a base for success without any unwanted surprises such as the electricity bill. If research into for example stocking has been done and ongoing maintenance is adequate then success has been given an adequate foundation. All the information needed is on this website or other websites, there for the taking.

Well, that time of the year is here. I have to say it seems to come round again rather quickly probably because of the busy lives that we all seem to lead nowadays.

Whatever has been wished for I hope it appears – even if it isn’t marine aquarium related! May I raise a glass and wish you and yours all the best for Christmas and the New Year.

Of all the marine fishes that are available many are very beautiful, some are different and others are just individual. The longnose hawkfish is one of the latter and in addition it’s colourful. The proper name for the fish is Oxycirrhites typus.

The full length of the fish could be 5” ((13cm) though it is likely to be smaller in an aquarium. The system should be a reef as it is important that there are areas of rock and perhaps branching corals so that the hawkfish can ‘sit’. The aquarium does not need to be a large one – a three foot length is enough (though as with all fish the larger the better as it arguably becomes more ‘natural’). The fish is not a strong swimmer and tends to sit and watch for food before moving to a new position, so it follows that very strong seawater currents are not  liked. The only other demand the fish makes is good quality seawater which is the usual anyway.

Any fairly experienced aquarist looking round a marine shop on seeing this fish would feel cautious because of the long nose, in the same way as with say a copperband butterfly fish. However, unlike the potential for problems with feeding a copperband the hawkfish is not problematic. It will eat frozen fare such as chopped fish, mysis and brine shrimp and will also take suitable freeze dried offerings, plus flake food. The food the fish normally eats in the wild is very small crustaceans and even very small fish so this has to be born in mind to ensure  that an adequate diet is offered. Fortunately the diet generally ties in with many other fish type requirements. The fish is likely to eat any very small crustaceans it finds so a reef system could provide some. Larger invertebrates including corals are safe.

Another big plus for this fish in addition to it being peaceful is hardiness. The longnose hawkfish is hardy overall and with proper system maintenance should not be a cause for concern.

The longnose hawkfish is not always easily obtained and an aquarist who desires one could need to place a specific order with a dealer. Once the fish has settled into its new home it becomes a very interesting addition, the shape of the fish and the colouration being part of this. It’s very entertaining watching the fish perch on one of its resting points observing and hoping for food. Given time the fish will beg the aquarist for food, paddling to hold a position in the seawater – ‘come on then, I’m starving, get on with it, feed me!’

There are jobs that can take up time with a marine aquarium whether the system is fish only, corals only or mixed reef. Some of these jobs cannot be automated, such as cleaning the algae off the viewing glasses. However there are some straightforward basic  tasks that could be.

Light is essential on all  systems though the type of light (the spectrum) is particularly important on corals only and mixed reefs. Light itself is important on all aquarium types as it provides the rhythm of life – when it goes dark fish find their hide holes and corals could start to close. At the same time night life could appear such as the tiny creatures in the rocks and sand. Light is the first item to automate – most aquarists do but there are those few who turn it on and off manually which is not recommended. First there needs to be a set pattern or rhythm to ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods, livestock need this in the same way that  humans do. The lighting ‘on’ period needs to the same day after day, with corals this is set to the length of time the corals need. All that is needed are electric timers, usually two. Why two? It’s very bad practice to plunge a dark aquarium into bright light or vice versa as this is very unnatural and causes some livestock panic. Fish for example need time to settle and go to their night time abodes where they have security. Daytime doesn’t start with instantaneous sun-up but there is a gradual increase of light. Coral only and mixed reef systems usually (but not always) employ strong white lighting and also blue (actinic) light as the latter is very useful to corals. So if the white light is turned on by one timer the blue can be turned on by another. The blue comes on around 30 minutes before the white and turns off about 30 minutes after. Though not a proper dawn and dusk this is sufficient for the ‘night time is coming’ and ‘wake up now’ needs of livestock. A fish only system could have say two white tubes fitted – it’s simple to fit one additional blue tube which enhances the fish colours as well.

Another job that could be automated is seawater level. Maintaining the correct level is important as this has an impact on salinity. It has to be said that topping up manually each day isn’t usually negative as far as salinity is concerned as the amount of water lost through evaporation in one day shouldn’t have a large impact, nevertheless there is an impact. If an accurate graph were to be drawn of salinity levels over say a week, the up/down fluctuation would be smaller with automated top up than with manual as the automated system applies several smaller top-ups in a day. Though it’s probably correct to assume that most marine aquarists (except perhaps those with fish only systems) run their aquariums open that is without cover glasses, those that have cover glasses will lose less water. If the water top-up is to be automated all that is required is a simple system that can be purchased commercially and which are not particularly expensive. These mostly consist of a float valve (to signal when water is required and when water is at the correct level), a small electric pump (to send replacement water when needed) and a water reservoir. Once set up the aquarist need only ensure the system continues to operate correctly and also keep an adequate supply of fresh water in the reservoir. This supply should really be RO (reverse osmosis) water.

There is an important point that should be made about water in the reservoir and this is it must be fresh water not salt water. When water evaporates from the display aquarium it is fresh – the salt is left behind. Using salt water will mean a slowly increasing salinity level. Salt could be lost but this is usually from salt creep, this is when salt encrustation is seen on wires, glass etc. that are close to the seawater surface.

The final basic automation that could be considered by the aquarist is feeding. Experiments have been done where several feeds a day have been injected into the aquarium so that fish can feed more naturally (as opposed to one or two major feeds each day). There have been successes with a few of these efforts but the system is troublesome. The major problem is keeping the food fresh (the foods used are a mixture of ‘meaty’ substances in small bits plus a little very small flake mixed in). The food is in a reservoir which is stirred continuously to keep the food dispersed so it can be successfully pumped to the aquarium and the pump used for this is a very small specialist pump (called a peristaltic pump) that is able to deliver small programmed doses (on the same principle as medical ones that are used to deliver small precise amounts at given times to patients). These are the first problems, stirring the mixture and ensuring the pump isn’t going to block as the tubes used are narrow. The major problem as already said is keeping the food fresh – these foods can ‘go off’ quite quickly. This was overcome by refrigeration – the food to be used was kept in a very small refrigerator from which it was pumped on demand, usually the pump was not inside with the food but a narrow tube (which is the method of delivery with these pumps) came through the casing.

Any aquarist who is not into general experimentation (which includes most of us) can easily see that the effort and expense is not worth the result. Provided an adequate diet is fed and overfeeding is avoided, feeding once or twice a day doesn’t seem to do any harm to most livestock types, though as always there are exceptions such as small mouthed specialist feeders who often  can’t compete with bolder greedier types. These more timid types are dealt with on an individual basis by the aquarist.

What about other automatic feeders then? These are available commercially and as mechanisms are generally reliable and not overly expensive. They usually clip to the aquarium side near and above the seawater surface. This positioning could be a problem, the fixing needs to be secure. The devices have several partitions so that one meal or more can be delivered per day at pre-set times. Unfortunately, for the devices to deliver the food it must be dry so it doesn’t clog or stick which rules out some marine foods such as frozen and leaves the choice as flake. Flake is placed in the device as desired and is delivered according to the set programme to the seawater surface. The flake has obviously not been pre-soaked so it floats on the surface for a while anyway. It could be that eagle eyed fish will see it and come to the surface to eat. The problem is that some perhaps most of this floating food could disappear over a weir to a sump or down a surface feeding filter intake and the like. These devices are not desirable in another way – they take away the enjoyment of interaction between the aquarist and the livestock. Most importantly, they could remove or reduce the time when the aquarist watches the fish and notes anything that could be a problem.

There are other more advanced devices that could be automated but above are the basic ones which most aquarists could consider. The one for lighting is considered essential. The one for water top-ups is for the aquarist to decide, many find it easy to top up each day though circumstances and aquarium size vary. The one for feeding is easy to consider – the first refrigerated method is more than most aquarists need or are willing to cope with. The second simpler flake feeder devices could be useful, but if to be considered it’s suggested that one is seen in action first on a friend’s system. If impressive enough then consideration needs to be given to security of delivery which depends on individual systems – the food needs to get to the fish and not be gathered up in a sump or filter.

Out on the wild reefs corals are obviously left to their own devices. A constant battle is fought for dominance and space with individual struggles sometimes lasting for years. Some corals are much more aggressive than others but all seem to find their place.

In the reef aquarium the potential for conflict remains. If the aquarist has done his/her job with research and advice then this potential is reduced. Corals that are unrelated are not permitted to touch and all corals are given expansion space. They are also positioned according to their need for light and seawater flow.

All things being equal the reef aquarium will be beautiful but despite the aquarist’s care troubles could still occur because corals grow, some more quickly than others. This could cause interference with seawater flow or light and action has to be taken to correct this, this usually being a reduction in coral size by careful trimming. The upside of this is that the coral that has been cut will recover and there is another coral, the cut portion, which is now a new coral ready for growth. If there isn’t enough space in the reef aquarium, then another aquarist or a dealer is the answer.

It can be that the problem isn’t to do with overgrowth at all, but coral aggression because of a demand for territory. This could be seen by the aquarist as whitened ends to one coral while a neighbour is seen to be touching. As already stated some corals are more aggressive than others and the weaker usually has the discoloured ends. All coral struggles are not seen like this as for example if two much less aggressive corals are fighting then any discolouration could be completely missing.

The heading photo shows a coral that had grown a bit too large, it’s the leather coral (Sarcophyton sp) at centre a little to the right. The coral had grown out of proportion and was overshadowing others. The answer in a case like this is simple, some sharp scissors and the head was cut off. Enough ‘stalk’ was left attached and in a very short time new polyps were appearing. Just below this coral can be seen very young specimens of the same kind.

The photo above shows mainly green star polyps (Pachyclavularia sp) which spread on a purple mat. They are not considered aggressive and had given way to button polyps (Zoanthid sp), again not considered very aggressive, which had caused the star polyps to recede in a half circle. The button polyps were completely removed from the rock – one remaining can be seen near the left hand side centre of the photo. As a result the star polyps are expanding back onto the cleared rock space.

Sometimes coral expansion can just be too much for the space available or the desire of the aquarist as it ‘misadjusts the picture’. In this case it needs the coral in question reducing in area. The final photo shows a generally bare rock which was inhabited by several mushroom corals (Rhodactis sp). These were removed one by one leaving a smaller colony (not shown) intact. There is one mushroom to be seen which is at the bottom right corner of the photo. These corals were hard to remove because of their ability to retract very quickly, their slimy surface and their incredible regeneration ability – leave a bit in place and hey, another mushroom. On this rock has been ‘planted’ a very small colony of star polyps which it is hoped will cover the rock in time.

So the reef aquarist has much to look out for, not only the quality of seawater and lighting but the actions of the corals themselves. Coral territorial expansion could take place fairly quickly over a period of months or it could be years, so the two words so often used are here again – observation and patience.