It’s taken quite a while and there have been quite a lot of decisions to make. Before those decisions could be made research has been needed which probably meant the purchase of a good hobby book which in turn threw up a lot of questions. Thank goodness for the internet, a massive resource for information.

The decision on whether it will be a reef or fish only system has been made as well – of course it has, how else would the decisions on some of the equipment be made such as lights? So there the aquarium sits, full of seawater, all equipment running. The biological filter has been started and tests indicate all is ready. Seawater testing must continue through the stocking period and beyond of course. The new aquarist is nearly overcome by the desire to obtain livestock. Hold on a little longer though, the whole point of the system is to see healthy marine life so let’s not make a mistake with it.

Correct stocking means slow stocking with the correct species and this has to include consideration for further stocking later which means the first fish need to be compatible. There are fish available that are suitable for beginners and will not cause undue problems in the future. They are generally hardy and will forgive some novice errors which are often to do with seawater quality.

What if the system is to include a reef? The same thing applies: the corals need to be compatible and not a negative for the future and also be hardy (in marine terms). Though it is not absolutely necessary, it’s best to place corals in first and allow them to settle for a while so that they have the best quality seawater without the contaminating influence of fish. In addition corals usually arrive on a rock and this rock has to be fitted into the reef. This could raise the need to move or even remove rocks and new fish would be further stressed by this action. There are corals that are suitable for the beginner and could very well be enough for the future as they display beauty and interest together and individually. On the basis that corals are strictly best in first what is available?

The best corals to consider are those that are generally termed as ‘soft’. These corals come in various forms and there are many types. They provide a lovely reef scene and many sway in the seawater currents and make a lovely picture. The size of the aquarium needs to be considered to ensure individual coral types are suitable and also how many different types are required. Corals have a low impact on seawater quality, far less than fish, so that is one potential problem less. They should be firmly placed so they don’t fall later and have plenty of room for expansion. Corals should not be in direct line with a powerhead output. Some of the corals mentioned can be trimmed (‘fragged’) if they become too large, producing a new coral.

The first coral type is the finger coral (properly known as Sinularia sp and Lobophytum sp). As the name suggests they usually have a main stem attached to a rock with branches above which in turn carry smaller branches which hold the polyps. This is not always the case though, some are low level. One of these low level types is Sinularia dura which is possibly the hardiest of all but still lovely.

The toadstool corals (properly called Sarcophyton sp) have a thick stalk crowned by a flat head covered in extended polyps. They are quite unique in appearance and interesting to include.

Mushroom corals (properly known as Rhodactis sp and Discosoma sp) are a little similar to the toadstools but much lower. They are attached to rockwork by a short stalk and have a circular head. The head is usually of a rough appearance but not always. They usually form groups.

Button polyps (properly known as Zoanthus sp) are a grouping of polyps that appear similar to flowers in a vase. The heads are much smaller than the previous corals. They can spread and are usually constrained by the size of the rock(s) they can colonise. They are an excellent addition to a reef.

That’s a good start for corals so what about fish? They need to be compatible with corals and each other. Before a few fish species are considered let’s look at damsel fish. These are small, active, hardy and colourful. Some, even occasional dealers, still suggest them to ‘run in’ a new aquarium – this is wrong, maturation fluid should be used if required. Very important, damsel fish are generally territorial and aggressive. If they are placed in an aquarium first they will see the aquarium as their territory and could harass or attack later additions even those bigger than themselves. This could lead to the later fish being afraid to come for food resulting in poor health or death. So avoid damsel fish. If one must be had, introduce it to the aquarium last so that other fish are settled and ensure the other fish are sturdy and not easily picked on.

The first fish in this short starter list is the firefish (properly known as Nemateleotris sp). At first sight this fish species appears delicate but they are reasonably hardy and are best kept as a pair. They could grow to about 3”. Probably the best known firefish is Nemateleotris magnifica.

Another interestingly shaped and coloured fish is the bicolour blenny (properly called Ecsenius bicolor). This can also grow to about 3”. It moves from rock to rock and mainly stays in view, and could stop at a particular point for a while.

Now for the gorgeous royal gramma ( properly called Gramma loreto). This fish is a little larger and could grow to near 4”. It is beautifully coloured and a definite plus.

A fish that most would recognise is the so called common clown (properly called Amphiprion ocellaris). These could grow to about 3”. This clownfish bears the colours that signal ‘marine’, it is very attractive. Two could be kept. These fish are being widely commercially and home bred. It’s reported that the aquarium bred ones are more hardy than the reef caught ones, so it’s a very good idea to obtain the aquarium bred type. On the wild reefs clownfish live with anemones but this should not be attempted by the beginner. Keeping an anemone is not as easy as might be thought as experience is required. Common clownfish – particularly the aquarium bred ones – should be quite happy without an anemone.

If the aquarium is ready for stocking that is all is operational and the biological filtration is ready, the suggested corals and fish (or some of them depending on the size of the aquarium) should give a colourful and interesting foundation. They are reasonably hardy and are able – within reason! – to tolerate small errors beginners are likely to make. If the aquarium is big enough further fish and/or corals can eventually be added after research has confirmed that they are fully compatible with existing stock.

There’s something missing from this text – pictures. If the aquarist types the proper name into a search engine then a whole host of choices will appear, including pictures and care.

Maybe a friend’s aquarium or some in a dealer’s have been seen and they are so good – good in more than one way, they are relaxing and the aquarium world is very interesting.

A marine aquarium doesn’t build itself of course; they have to be constructed in such a way that the type of aquarium is properly supported. Without this there are going to be problems and that’s not a pleasure. So there’s a general procedure that should be followed.

Are you willing to give the time? This might seem strange as it’s obvious that putting an aquarium together takes time. The construction stage is fine, the enthusiasm of ‘newness’ is there and the potential aquarist is bubbling over in the desire to get on with it. It’s not only in the initial stages that problems could arise however, it’s later on. There’s weekly maintenance that needs to be done month in month out year in year out. It doesn’t seem problematical at first but it can be when enthusiasm has waned somewhat. So starting a marine aquarium should never be an instant decision – the very fact that livestock are present demands consistency.

Have you the space? Normally the largest aquarium that will fit is chosen, this is the natural choice as big is seen as better. It’s true that a large aquarium has the greater initial visual impact but smaller ones can also be very beautiful and interesting as can be found by browsing the internet. The aquarium shouldn’t be too tight a fit as it could be necessary to get round the sides for maintenance. Mentally picture the aquarium in place – could maintenance be reasonably easily accomplished? There needs to be a power outlet close to the aquarium and this should be accessible once the aquarium is in place. Don’t forget that the aquarium is going to have to stand on something so perhaps a cabinet is required? A sump is a good idea so to  avoid any impact on space could one go in the cabinet beneath the aquarium? Consider the construction of the floor – seawater plus rocks plus aquarium equals considerable weight. Will the floor support it?

What type of aquarium will it be? There are three types, fish only, corals only and mixed reef (fish and corals). This choice has an impact on the equipment that is needed, for example corals need special lighting.

How about the cost of purchase for the equipment? This really is important as mistakes could lead to corner cutting – not the way to start! There is the aquarium of course and any sump that will be used. There could be overflow holes required in the aquarium – will this be DIY or done by a dealer? There is the cabinet if required. Consider the amount of sea salt needed for the initial mix, it isn’t cheap. Then there is the necessary electrical equipment such as sufficiently sized heaters, circulation pumps, the return pump from the sump, canister filter(s) or live rock, a correctly sized protein skimmer and lights plus two timers. Then there are the test kits to monitor the seawater condition. A good way to obtain a general guideline of the cost is to make a list of the needed items then price them from sources on the internet, a magazine or a local dealer.

How much will the livestock cost? The local dealer should have various corals and fish which will permit a guideline to be obtained. This will not be accurate as decisions on what types have not been made but at least knowledge of the general cost of various types can be obtained.

How much will it cost to run? Feeding the livestock is not costly. Sea salt is needed for routine weekly partial seawater changes. Test kits will need renewing from time to time. There is the electrical cost which is easy to estimate if a list of required items has been made. These items each have a wattage (W) – add these up. This will come to part of a kilowatt or a number of kilowatts and a part per hour. The cost of a kilowatt (1000 watts) will be known so the daily, weekly etc cost can be determined. For a day just multiply by 24 and so on. Heaters  and lights will not be on all the time so divide the wattage by two for these for estimate purposes.

Is it all too expensive? There’s no need to give up yet. Consider a smaller aquarium. This will reduce the cost of nearly everything. However, new purchase and running estimates need to be considered to be sure, if it is still too expensive or if there is a doubt, don’t start.

Is everything acceptable? Wonderful, the initial stages are complete, the aquarium, cabinet and any sump can be obtained plus other equipment. Some more research will be needed to ensure that the equipment purchased is suitable for the aquarium size and the job it has to do.

Marine aquariums are supposed to be relaxing, the stuff above doesn’t look like it! Marine aquariums are most definitely relaxing – and exciting, and beautiful. That of course is when they’re finished and settled. They won’t be finished and settled if not set up correctly, so they will not be beautiful and definitely not relaxing. The aquarist will face stress because of problems. It isn’t necessary to have every bell and whistle available but the aquarium must have the basic adequate necessities.

There are two important words for marine aquarists and these are research and patience. The above are the first steps which should give a base for success without any unwanted surprises such as the electricity bill. If research into for example stocking has been done and ongoing maintenance is adequate then success has been given an adequate foundation. All the information needed is on this website or other websites, there for the taking.

Well, that time of the year is here. I have to say it seems to come round again rather quickly probably because of the busy lives that we all seem to lead nowadays.

Whatever has been wished for I hope it appears – even if it isn’t marine aquarium related! May I raise a glass and wish you and yours all the best for Christmas and the New Year.

Of all the marine fishes that are available many are very beautiful, some are different and others are just individual. The longnose hawkfish is one of the latter and in addition it’s colourful. The proper name for the fish is Oxycirrhites typus.

The full length of the fish could be 5” ((13cm) though it is likely to be smaller in an aquarium. The system should be a reef as it is important that there are areas of rock and perhaps branching corals so that the hawkfish can ‘sit’. The aquarium does not need to be a large one – a three foot length is enough (though as with all fish the larger the better as it arguably becomes more ‘natural’). The fish is not a strong swimmer and tends to sit and watch for food before moving to a new position, so it follows that very strong seawater currents are not  liked. The only other demand the fish makes is good quality seawater which is the usual anyway.

Any fairly experienced aquarist looking round a marine shop on seeing this fish would feel cautious because of the long nose, in the same way as with say a copperband butterfly fish. However, unlike the potential for problems with feeding a copperband the hawkfish is not problematic. It will eat frozen fare such as chopped fish, mysis and brine shrimp and will also take suitable freeze dried offerings, plus flake food. The food the fish normally eats in the wild is very small crustaceans and even very small fish so this has to be born in mind to ensure  that an adequate diet is offered. Fortunately the diet generally ties in with many other fish type requirements. The fish is likely to eat any very small crustaceans it finds so a reef system could provide some. Larger invertebrates including corals are safe.

Another big plus for this fish in addition to it being peaceful is hardiness. The longnose hawkfish is hardy overall and with proper system maintenance should not be a cause for concern.

The longnose hawkfish is not always easily obtained and an aquarist who desires one could need to place a specific order with a dealer. Once the fish has settled into its new home it becomes a very interesting addition, the shape of the fish and the colouration being part of this. It’s very entertaining watching the fish perch on one of its resting points observing and hoping for food. Given time the fish will beg the aquarist for food, paddling to hold a position in the seawater – ‘come on then, I’m starving, get on with it, feed me!’

There are jobs that can take up time with a marine aquarium whether the system is fish only, corals only or mixed reef. Some of these jobs cannot be automated, such as cleaning the algae off the viewing glasses. However there are some straightforward basic  tasks that could be.

Light is essential on all  systems though the type of light (the spectrum) is particularly important on corals only and mixed reefs. Light itself is important on all aquarium types as it provides the rhythm of life – when it goes dark fish find their hide holes and corals could start to close. At the same time night life could appear such as the tiny creatures in the rocks and sand. Light is the first item to automate – most aquarists do but there are those few who turn it on and off manually which is not recommended. First there needs to be a set pattern or rhythm to ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods, livestock need this in the same way that  humans do. The lighting ‘on’ period needs to the same day after day, with corals this is set to the length of time the corals need. All that is needed are electric timers, usually two. Why two? It’s very bad practice to plunge a dark aquarium into bright light or vice versa as this is very unnatural and causes some livestock panic. Fish for example need time to settle and go to their night time abodes where they have security. Daytime doesn’t start with instantaneous sun-up but there is a gradual increase of light. Coral only and mixed reef systems usually (but not always) employ strong white lighting and also blue (actinic) light as the latter is very useful to corals. So if the white light is turned on by one timer the blue can be turned on by another. The blue comes on around 30 minutes before the white and turns off about 30 minutes after. Though not a proper dawn and dusk this is sufficient for the ‘night time is coming’ and ‘wake up now’ needs of livestock. A fish only system could have say two white tubes fitted – it’s simple to fit one additional blue tube which enhances the fish colours as well.

Another job that could be automated is seawater level. Maintaining the correct level is important as this has an impact on salinity. It has to be said that topping up manually each day isn’t usually negative as far as salinity is concerned as the amount of water lost through evaporation in one day shouldn’t have a large impact, nevertheless there is an impact. If an accurate graph were to be drawn of salinity levels over say a week, the up/down fluctuation would be smaller with automated top up than with manual as the automated system applies several smaller top-ups in a day. Though it’s probably correct to assume that most marine aquarists (except perhaps those with fish only systems) run their aquariums open that is without cover glasses, those that have cover glasses will lose less water. If the water top-up is to be automated all that is required is a simple system that can be purchased commercially and which are not particularly expensive. These mostly consist of a float valve (to signal when water is required and when water is at the correct level), a small electric pump (to send replacement water when needed) and a water reservoir. Once set up the aquarist need only ensure the system continues to operate correctly and also keep an adequate supply of fresh water in the reservoir. This supply should really be RO (reverse osmosis) water.

There is an important point that should be made about water in the reservoir and this is it must be fresh water not salt water. When water evaporates from the display aquarium it is fresh – the salt is left behind. Using salt water will mean a slowly increasing salinity level. Salt could be lost but this is usually from salt creep, this is when salt encrustation is seen on wires, glass etc. that are close to the seawater surface.

The final basic automation that could be considered by the aquarist is feeding. Experiments have been done where several feeds a day have been injected into the aquarium so that fish can feed more naturally (as opposed to one or two major feeds each day). There have been successes with a few of these efforts but the system is troublesome. The major problem is keeping the food fresh (the foods used are a mixture of ‘meaty’ substances in small bits plus a little very small flake mixed in). The food is in a reservoir which is stirred continuously to keep the food dispersed so it can be successfully pumped to the aquarium and the pump used for this is a very small specialist pump (called a peristaltic pump) that is able to deliver small programmed doses (on the same principle as medical ones that are used to deliver small precise amounts at given times to patients). These are the first problems, stirring the mixture and ensuring the pump isn’t going to block as the tubes used are narrow. The major problem as already said is keeping the food fresh – these foods can ‘go off’ quite quickly. This was overcome by refrigeration – the food to be used was kept in a very small refrigerator from which it was pumped on demand, usually the pump was not inside with the food but a narrow tube (which is the method of delivery with these pumps) came through the casing.

Any aquarist who is not into general experimentation (which includes most of us) can easily see that the effort and expense is not worth the result. Provided an adequate diet is fed and overfeeding is avoided, feeding once or twice a day doesn’t seem to do any harm to most livestock types, though as always there are exceptions such as small mouthed specialist feeders who often  can’t compete with bolder greedier types. These more timid types are dealt with on an individual basis by the aquarist.

What about other automatic feeders then? These are available commercially and as mechanisms are generally reliable and not overly expensive. They usually clip to the aquarium side near and above the seawater surface. This positioning could be a problem, the fixing needs to be secure. The devices have several partitions so that one meal or more can be delivered per day at pre-set times. Unfortunately, for the devices to deliver the food it must be dry so it doesn’t clog or stick which rules out some marine foods such as frozen and leaves the choice as flake. Flake is placed in the device as desired and is delivered according to the set programme to the seawater surface. The flake has obviously not been pre-soaked so it floats on the surface for a while anyway. It could be that eagle eyed fish will see it and come to the surface to eat. The problem is that some perhaps most of this floating food could disappear over a weir to a sump or down a surface feeding filter intake and the like. These devices are not desirable in another way – they take away the enjoyment of interaction between the aquarist and the livestock. Most importantly, they could remove or reduce the time when the aquarist watches the fish and notes anything that could be a problem.

There are other more advanced devices that could be automated but above are the basic ones which most aquarists could consider. The one for lighting is considered essential. The one for water top-ups is for the aquarist to decide, many find it easy to top up each day though circumstances and aquarium size vary. The one for feeding is easy to consider – the first refrigerated method is more than most aquarists need or are willing to cope with. The second simpler flake feeder devices could be useful, but if to be considered it’s suggested that one is seen in action first on a friend’s system. If impressive enough then consideration needs to be given to security of delivery which depends on individual systems – the food needs to get to the fish and not be gathered up in a sump or filter.

Out on the wild reefs corals are obviously left to their own devices. A constant battle is fought for dominance and space with individual struggles sometimes lasting for years. Some corals are much more aggressive than others but all seem to find their place.

In the reef aquarium the potential for conflict remains. If the aquarist has done his/her job with research and advice then this potential is reduced. Corals that are unrelated are not permitted to touch and all corals are given expansion space. They are also positioned according to their need for light and seawater flow.

All things being equal the reef aquarium will be beautiful but despite the aquarist’s care troubles could still occur because corals grow, some more quickly than others. This could cause interference with seawater flow or light and action has to be taken to correct this, this usually being a reduction in coral size by careful trimming. The upside of this is that the coral that has been cut will recover and there is another coral, the cut portion, which is now a new coral ready for growth. If there isn’t enough space in the reef aquarium, then another aquarist or a dealer is the answer.

It can be that the problem isn’t to do with overgrowth at all, but coral aggression because of a demand for territory. This could be seen by the aquarist as whitened ends to one coral while a neighbour is seen to be touching. As already stated some corals are more aggressive than others and the weaker usually has the discoloured ends. All coral struggles are not seen like this as for example if two much less aggressive corals are fighting then any discolouration could be completely missing.

The heading photo shows a coral that had grown a bit too large, it’s the leather coral (Sarcophyton sp) at centre a little to the right. The coral had grown out of proportion and was overshadowing others. The answer in a case like this is simple, some sharp scissors and the head was cut off. Enough ‘stalk’ was left attached and in a very short time new polyps were appearing. Just below this coral can be seen very young specimens of the same kind.

The photo above shows mainly green star polyps (Pachyclavularia sp) which spread on a purple mat. They are not considered aggressive and had given way to button polyps (Zoanthid sp), again not considered very aggressive, which had caused the star polyps to recede in a half circle. The button polyps were completely removed from the rock – one remaining can be seen near the left hand side centre of the photo. As a result the star polyps are expanding back onto the cleared rock space.

Sometimes coral expansion can just be too much for the space available or the desire of the aquarist as it ‘misadjusts the picture’. In this case it needs the coral in question reducing in area. The final photo shows a generally bare rock which was inhabited by several mushroom corals (Rhodactis sp). These were removed one by one leaving a smaller colony (not shown) intact. There is one mushroom to be seen which is at the bottom right corner of the photo. These corals were hard to remove because of their ability to retract very quickly, their slimy surface and their incredible regeneration ability – leave a bit in place and hey, another mushroom. On this rock has been ‘planted’ a very small colony of star polyps which it is hoped will cover the rock in time.

So the reef aquarist has much to look out for, not only the quality of seawater and lighting but the actions of the corals themselves. Coral territorial expansion could take place fairly quickly over a period of months or it could be years, so the two words so often used are here again – observation and patience.

There are some spectacularly coloured marine fish and the mandarin fish must surely rank very highly among these. It’s a dragonet and the proper name is Synchiropus splendidus. There is another fish that competes for glory called the psychedelic fish properly called Synchiropus picturatus, the markings are generally circular. If I were to be the judge, the mandarin would take the crown.

The mandarin can grow to about 4 ins (10 cm) but is likely to achieve less in an aquarium. The environment needs to be of high quality as is always the case – for this fish it means high quality sea water in a reef system. The fish is not suitable for a fish only aquarium. There should be many rocks which afford many caves and crevices for the fish to hide in. The fish is not particularly secretive but needs suitable décor for security. Only one fish should be kept as two could cause trouble – two males are likely to fight. Advanced aquarists with a suitable large very mature reef system could cautiously try a male and female, the sexes are determined by the male having a first ray on the front dorsal fin twice as long as the female’s. The fish are reasonably tolerant of light from subdued to fairly bright.

It’s very sad that these fish are often bought by inexperienced aquarists and they are then for the most part doomed. Inexperienced aquarists should not obtain this fish and should resist the beauty of it. Even if the aquarist has a reef system that has been properly initially matured and other fish are healthy this still will not do. The problem is adequate feeding.

The mandarin fish spends most of the day moving about on the surfaces of rocks, algae and sand looking for food which consists of tiny organisms. Therefore the fish has a very small mouth. It could be, though it isn’t the norm, that the aquarist will find the fish will take some brine shrimp but in the longer term this will be inadequate. This is why the fish must be housed in a reef system so that it has the best chance of finding proper nourishment and the larger the reef system the better as the possibility of finding food increases.

So the guidelines are first and foremost do not buy a mandarin on impulse! Second, the aquarist should have some experience – it’s difficult to put a time period to this but say more than a year and seawater quality is continuously high. Third the fish must have a reef environment though this does not guarantee that there will be enough food whatever the reef size. Finally the aquarist must be willing to spend some more money to try to ensure the mandarin is properly fed.

Spending even more money to feed one fish? If a higher chance of success is required then yes. As already said even with a large and very mature reef system there isn’t a guarantee that the proper food will be available in sufficient amounts. A proper diet in sufficient amount is important to all life forms. So it will be necessary to spend some extra money at least at first and possibly continuously.

 Nowadays the marine hobby is very well supplied by the marine industry and this applies to food types. Available nowadays are ‘copepods’ which can be put into the reef system and on which the mandarin can feed. It’s necessary to monitor the amount required as far as possible (this is done with food for all fish anyway) and it could be that the amount added will diminish as time passes. Once the mandarin is in the aquarium and appears reasonably settled because it is looking for food, put in a batch of copepods. Observe for a week and then put in a second batch and again observe. The mandarin should be seen to eat as it ‘pecks’ at the rocks etc. If all seems well place more copepods in but this time after two weeks. If the mandarin appears to be finding food throughout this period leave another week (that is a period of three weeks) before considering a further introduction of copepods – and so on. Hopefully the introduction of food will be very much reduced as the aquarist finds an adequate introduction rate.

 The addition of copepods to the aquarium has the additional benefit that the tiny creatures generally are detrivores eating leftover food etc. When adding these to the reef system it’s a good idea to add a small portion to the sump if there is a deep sand bed.

 The mandarin fish (and the psychedelic fish) are wonderful additions to a mature reef system, but only if the aquarist is willing to give the fish the best chance of health. This of course applies to all aquarium life but particularly so to some specialist feeders. If the aquarist pays the price for success, the price being observation and expenditure on food as required, then the mandarin will remain in good health for a long time.  

Buying a new fish for the aquarium is without doubt exciting. We don’t keep aquariums just to look at a glass box! Even in a reef system fish make the scenery look more realistic and add movement. 

It’s assumed that all the correct actions have been completed before the moment of purchase. Above all else, the fish shouldn’t be an impulse buy, an act more likely to occur with less experienced aquarists. Obtaining a fish because it’s so pretty is wrong. The fish general type should be reasonably researched, that is it should be suited to the type of environment it is intended for (reef or fish only) and be compatible with the fish and corals, if any, already present or intended. The fish may look lovely but what is its final size? Does it have predatory tendencies? Particularly in a fish only system, but also for a reef the fish type’s character should be carefully judged as timid fish will not do so well among other bolder and more aggressive ones. Some research as above is important as once the local fish store is reached the fish on display, some very tempting because of their beauty, are likely to cause confusion. 

Fish for sale at a local fish store cannot be automatically accepted as being healthy. Some stores properly quarantine incoming fish and this has to be applauded. It’s necessary to ensure any quarantine has been properly done though – I learned of one store that did genuinely keep fish for two weeks before sale and then sold them. The problem was that the fish were not isolated for the two weeks in quarantine as new incoming fish were placed in the same tank. This exposed the existing fish to any incoming problem and each time a new fish went in the quarantine period should have been extended for a further two weeks (or more) but this didn’t happen. 

It’s important for the aquarist to question the health of any fish desired – spend time looking carefully at the fish for negative signs such as cloudy eyes, ragged fins, over fast respiration, hanging about listlessly in one area, spots and marks on the body etc. This is quite difficult for the inexperienced as for example fish have naturally differing rates of respiration. For example, a damsel has a faster gill beat than an angel. Also in a dealer’s tank the situation is far from perfect as the dealer needs to catch the fish on display quite quickly and a heavily decorated tank would seriously interfere with this. Nevertheless there are signs that can be spotted. If the store has a good reputation the assistant will be happy to explain anything. Once the aquarist is happy that all is well, ask to see the fish feed and again the assistant should be happy to oblige. If all is well ask the assistant what is usually fed – once home use this diet to start with so the fish recognizes the food if the species is known to be a bit finicky. The diet can be varied as time progresses. 

In the photo is a beautiful fish commonly called a copperband butterflyfish, the proper name is Chelmon rostratus. This is a reasonable example of what the less experienced aquarist should avoid. The fish though a ‘butterfly’ is generally suited to a reef aquarium but not a fish only system unless the fish are peaceful and even so food could be lost to other fish. A reef is best as the fish can pick at the rocks for food as it would in the wild, hence the long snout, though it’s unlikely the fish would find sufficient to eat. Even with a healthy fish the problem arises with standard feeding, with even experienced aquarists finding that they don’t feed. What is really frustrating is that sometimes they do feed without any problem – it seems to be a bit of a lottery. The one I owned lived in a reef system but I had to place food in a special rock with holes drilled in it so the fish could take it ‘naturally’. 

So the aquarist has picked the fish which is compatible and as far as can be ascertained healthy. It needs to be transported home and if not already quarantined put into a quarantine tank. Most aquarists don’t do this unfortunately. Then after a fortnight or more it should be properly introduced to the display aquarium, with dimmed light and time for the seawater condition between the quarantine tank or travel bag and the display aquarium to equalize. 

The first point when the fish is in the display aquarium is to watch for it to appear. Most fish tend to disappear into the rocks, or find a suitable place which offers some security. For all the fish knows there are predators about. Feeding the fish already present should continue as usual. The new fish will stay hidden for a while, the period very much dependant on the species and the company it has to keep. A healthy fish will re-appear and explore the aquarium. If the aquarist has provided sufficient hide-holes one of these will be adopted giving the fish more permanent security. Security is very important to the new fish as it has been stressed a great deal in the previous weeks with capture (unless tank-raised) and travel, so it needs time to calm down and resume its normal life patterns as far as possible. 

Once the fish has re-appeared a check needs to be made that it’s feeding. Some fish are bold feeders going for the food the instant it hits the seawater. Others are slower and some are timid, particularly if they are being harassed. The character of the fish should be taken into account to ensure it has enough food. Sometimes the fact that other fish are eating is sufficient for the new fish to join in. 

Whether the fish has been quarantined or not, once the fish is visible a watch should be kept for any changes in appearance or habits. If the way it swims changes, or breathing rates increase, or there are ragged fins it should be noted. If very small or tiny yellowish white to white spots are noticed on the fins or body then very close monitoring is needed. If the fish gives the opportunity have a look with a magnifying glass. Spots could be a sign of serious disease which if left alone could put other fish in danger. If such a sign appears don’t take immediate action but try to be sure that what is being medicated is actually there! Speedy action is necessary but there is time to consider. With some diseases it is easier to treat a fish only system than a reef. 

All aquarists keep a general eye on their fish to be sure they are healthy even if the fish have been resident for months or years.  After a time it becomes automatic at feeding and maintenance times. 

If the aquarist keeps high quality seawater and does the necessary ongoing maintenance plus feeds an adequate diet, with a little bit of luck the odds seem to be that the aquarium fish will settle and live a long healthy life. As experience grows the likelihood of being tempted to add ‘one more’ fish, possibly an inappropriate one, will diminish.

The first and best way is to use the categories listed on the right of the page. Once the category desired has been reached then scroll through the texts.

The second way is to click on ‘Sitemap’ at the bottom of the page. This will bring up a list of texts in order of date, newest first. Clicking on one of these will go directly to that text. It’s known that there are broken links earlier on because of a problem that arose but these should be few.

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Many marine aquarists (or is it most?) run into a problem or two along the way. This could be with equipment though this is generally reliable nowadays. Often the problem is environmental and could be an unwanted invasion.

With my aquarium it was an invasion, or rather two of them. The first was algae (we all recognize and shudder at the possibilities there!) and the second unwanted life.

Except for desirable types of encrusting algae there had never been an algae problem and apart from what follows never has. I first noticed the little green balls here and there and was initially pleased because it was a quite attractive addition. I identified them quite quickly as ‘sailor’s eyeballs’, also known as bubble algae but properly called Ventricaria ventricosa. The green balls, which can vary in colour shade in line with the available light, can grow up to ½” or so in diameter. They could form small cylinders as well as balls. It was quickly learned that they are unwelcome because if they are left to their own devices they could spread very quickly – they eventually burst and spread spores everywhere. One good thing is that they are said to grow in high quality seawater*, so this could be Mother Nature confirming the test kit results. The balls are full of carbon monoxide which is a toxic gas*.

So how was this attack met? It was clear that as the aquarium is a reef it was likely they could never be eradicated completely because of all the nooks and crannies among the rocks. However, the ones that were visible would be destroyed. Remembering that if burst they could spread spores it was decided to burst and siphon them at each routine seawater change. The basic equipment used is about 12” of rigid airline connected to a length of flexible airline, enough to reach from the lowest part of the aquarium to a bucket. Then, before the main seawater change took place, each bubble seen was burst and the pipe kept very near the bubble for a few seconds thus taking out any spores. It takes a bit of practice but eventually is easy.

Constant attacks on the bubbles reduced their numbers and these reduced numbers meant fewer new bubbles, on a down scale as time went on. It’s felt that the bubbles have raised the truce flag and are well under control. As said, they’re still hidden here and there so the conqueror needs to maintain vigilance!

Two invasions were mentioned. The second one was aiptasia. This time it was known that they weren’t welcome and attacks began. With the reef the same problem applied – not all would be seen. The aiptasia, also known as ‘glass anemones’ come into the aquarium with live rock or perhaps more likely with coral rock (which could be called uncured live rock). They present the same problem – one or two fine, but they are likely to multiply rapidly. They shouldn’t be scraped off rocks or squashed etc as this will leave remnants which are quite likely to grow into new anemones. There are one or two natural ways of attacking them.

Natural methods that have been recommended are the introduction of a copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus), or by a peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). Some aquarists have reported success with these but there are others who advised they took little interest in the anemones. There is also the question of suitability to the aquarium type and the fact that the aquarium could be fully stocked. The copperband butterfly is also known to be a gamble as far as feeding is concerned, some seem to eat without problem and yet others could drive the aquarist nuts! Where an introduction is considered to be safe then one or the other could be tried, the fish and shrimp are interesting in their own right. Once introduced a watch needs to be kept for any problem that the fish or shrimp could meet and also that the aiptasia are being dealt with.

If new introductions are not wanted then there is a chemical method that is reliable and safe and this is the route taken in my case. The chemical comes in liquid form and is gently squirted on the central disc of the anemone making sure that circulation pumps are temporarily turned off. The instructions need to be carefully followed of course. The product is named ‘Joes Juice**’. My aquarium is full of soft corals (though there are few fish) and there has never been a bad reaction of any sort to the treatment. The anemones have not been completely eradicated because of the rock formations but are very low in number – sometimes a search finds none at all. If one is seen, no matter how small, it’s attacked. Again this action is taken at routine maintenance time. Once more it seems the white flag has been flown but a watch is still needed for the little devils.

If the seawater is low in nitrate and phosphate then the possible problems are diminished though not removed entirely. The main point is early identification – anything seen that ‘wasn’t there before’ needs investigation and identification. In the case of the above invasions, each problem was dealt with on a fortnightly basis so that only one had to be faced at each weekly routine maintenance job.

Photographs of the offending beasties should have been taken when they were available but weren’t. However it’s easy anyway, just go into Google and type in either Aiptasia or Ventricaria ventricosa, and then click ‘images’ on the left hand side.

(* Ref: Baensch Marine Atlas Vol 1)

(** Aquaristsonline.com has no connection, personal or commercial, with the makers of ‘Joes Juice’)