Aquarium Answers, Pond | Fish Question and Help Articles

Aquarium Answers Index

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:38:00 +0000

Aquarium/Pond Answers is brought to you from Aquarium Keeping Guru Carl Strohmeyer

Carl Strohmeyer (now retired), has fish keeping experience going back to 1968, and professional fish keeping/research experience going back to 1978.
He has authored more free internet articles than any other person, expert or otherwise.
These articles are found here at Aquarium Answers" as well as in the fish/aquarium/pond keeping library at "AAP Aquarium Information". He has also authored in full or in part many articles found in blogs such as "Fish As Pets".

This "Home" page is designed as a directory of articles here at Aquarium Answers (we also provide the list of articles in the right navigation bar on every post/article that is set in chronological order)

Our newest articles are:

How to Treat Sick Fish

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance

Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums

TOPICS-

AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY:

How do Fish Drink, OSMOTIC FUNCTION- This article deals with the often forgotten yet very important subject of aquatic osmoregulation.
This is not only one of my more in depth and most updated articles this subject, but probably the most in depth anywhere on the Internet as well.

Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums- An article dealing with the subject of RO (reverse osmosis), DI (de-ionized), or softwater for aquariums. This is a subject that has a lot of miss-understanding surrounding it. As well this article cover subjects such why soft water via a home water softener should NEVER be for aquarium
A companion article to the above "How do Fish Drink, OSMOTIC FUNCTION" article.
This is a MUST READ article if you are thinking of investing in one of these systems or use softwater in your home for your aquarium

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance- This article looks into several methods for maintenance of reef aquarium chemistry.
The article focuses on calcium and alkalinity with a snapshot of minor/trace elements as well as the affect of methods on ionic balance upon reef chemistry such as increasing sodium.

Hydrogen Sulfides- Hydrogen Sulfide production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Pond Nitrate Removal.

Salt in Freshwater Aquariums- The use of Sodium Chloride more commonly known as just plain salt seems to be a constant source of controversy among aquarists. This article deals with the known facts and myths about the use of salt in FW Aquariums.

Aquarium Nitrates- Although less toxic than ammonia and nitrite; nitrate (NO3) as a nitrogen compound also causes stress at all levels making a fish’s organs work harder to adjust to it’s new environment, especially at levels higher than 100 ppm)

Aquarium or Pond Bio-Load- This article looks at what the definition of an aquarium or pond bio load, As well this article examines what affects the bio load and its affects on water chemistry.

TAP WATER USE IN AQUARIUM; From Chlorine and Chloramines to Phosphates -Regularly updated information about the use of tap water in aquariums as well as removal of toxic elements there in.

AQUARIUM TEST KITS; use & importance- Aquarium/pond Test kit basics and what they should be used for as well as general water parameters to achieve with your test kits.

Plaster of Paris in Ponds/ Aquariums- This article deals with poor chemical comparisons to mineral block (such as Wonder Shells) and Plaster of Paris (as perpetuated in some backward forum posts). Also the article contrasts the chemical composition of the ocean.

AQUARIUM DISEASES, TREATMENTS AND SIMILAR

How To Treat Sick Fish- An article any fish keeper should read FIRST!.
The purpose of this article is not to provide any specific treatment regimen for the readers fish, rather to provide an outline that will provide a better chance for success over the typical "my fish are sick and what medications & how much should I dump into my aquarium" question.

Fin/Tail Rot; Treatment and Prevention in Bettas & ALL Fish (including Arowanas)- "Fin Rot" is a generic term that does not define any one disease, rather there are many causes of this Symptom; of which Fin Rot is better described as a symptom with more than one cause.
This is a practical article for ANY fish one considers to have "Fin Rot" regardless of whether or not the fish is a Betta.

TB in Fish; Mycobacterium Tuberculosis A look a rare but deadly and frustrating infection of fish; Mycobacterium Tuberculosis.
CLEAR Identification, treatment, & prevention is given, as well as some excellent resources for further information.

Fish Eye Infections; Streptococcus Gram Positive Bacterial Infections in Aquarium -As well as common eye infections, This article deal with the most common gram positive bacterial infection affecting fish; Streptococcus iniae, and agalactiae as well as closely related bacterial groups; Lactococcus, Enterococcus , and Vagococcus.

Fish Baths, Dips, Swabs- Fish Baths/Dips for supplemental (& even primary) treatment of Bacterial infections, wounds, sores, Fungus (Saprolegnia), parasite infestations, poisoning & more.

HITH; Hole in the Head Disease in Fish- Information that is regularly updated about this often controversial disease/syndrome that afflicts Cichlids in particular.

Ichthyophonus in fish- Ichthyophonus (Ichthyphonus) fungi are one of the more devastating aquarium diseases. It is nearly impossible to treat, however it is easier to prevent.

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish- Similar symptoms to the symptoms of Ichthyophonus (Ichthyphonus) fungi.
Whirling disease is a disease of freshwater fish caused by the myxozoan parasite Myxobolus cerebralis. This infection/infestation is most commonly found in the wild found in the salmonid family of fish.
What is noteworthy mostly for prevention is that the parasite has two hosts — the fish itself and a freshwater oligochaete worm, popularly known as the Tubifex tubifex..

Fish Parasites, Detritus Worms, Anchor Worms - Information about Trematodes, Nematodes, & Anchor Worms in Fish as well as Detritus Worms, planaria, and feeding worms such as Grindal Worms.

Angelfish Virus, Aids- Although not as common as in the 1990s, this viral infection can devastate an angelfish population (& potentially other fish).

NEON TETRA DISEASE; Identification, Prevention and Possible Treatment -Information about a fish disease that is often is often a catch all name for diseases of Neon Tetras specifically and many other fish as well.

FRESHWATER VELVET (Piscinoodinium pillulare) & Costia (Ichtyobodo)- Identification, Prevention, and Treatment of these two somewhat less common diseases.

Lateral Line in Fish - Information about Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) which affects primarily marine fish.

DROPSY in Fish -prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this malady that is often a symptom of other problems.

Fish Anatomy, Fin Identification- This Aquarium Answers Post is simply for Fish Fin and Fish Anatomy identification.

Molly Disease, Care of Mollies- Molly Disease ("Shimmies") as well as basics and water parameters for Keeping the popular molly fish in aquariums, including the importance of GH of salt.

USNEA; USING USNIC ACID AS A FISH REMEDY -How Usnic acid and Mucilage which are both found in Usnea lichen can be used as effective alternative aquarium and pond fish treatments.

AQUARIUM FILTER MEDIA, CONDITIONERS, SIMILAR

Aquarium & Pond Filter Media- In this article I will discus three basic filter media types and subtypes of these.
These filter media types are Mechanical (such as Micron), Biological (Such as Ceramic Bio Media), and Chemical (such as Carbon).

AQUARIUM (& Pond) WATER CONDITIONERS - their ingredients (where available), what chemical functions they perform and uses based on my opinions of each based on using these products in a professional capacity as well as tests and available research.

Activated Carbon for Aquarium or Pond- The pros and cons of carbon use; what carbon can and cannot remove and much more.

AQUARIUM & POND FILTERS, PUMPS, LIGHTING & OTHER EQUIPMENT

PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting
PUR stands for Photosynthetically Useable Radiation. It is also known as "useful light energy". This is more important for determining your aquarium light source than PAR.

Lighting Theory of a Planted Aquarium- RQE, PFY, PAS, & PUR The debate of what light energy is "useable" for plant photosynthesis or what's Photosynthesically Usable Radiation for planted and coral aquariums.

HEAD PRESSURE in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps
An in depth article explaining the affect of head pressure on water flow in aquariums and ponds. This is a must read for those attempting to determine the best fit for their UV Sterilizer, water features, and over all water flow scheme for their aquarium or pond.

Marine (Saltwater) Aquarium Protein Skimmers & Ozone Generators- Useful opinions about Protein Skimmers & Ozonizers based on my use and other aquarium maintenance professionals experience.
This article is based on "hands-on experience".

Aquarium and Pond Pump, Power Head Review- Useful opinions about pumps (power head, propeller, etc.) based on mine and other aquarium maintenance professionals experience.
This article is based on "hands-on experience", however it is still a more subjective article as with the article above

AQUARIUM HEATERS- Types of Aquarium Heaters, how they work, temperature guide for selecting heaters, as well general care/information.

POND VEGGIE (PLANT FILTERS)- The Basic types of Veggie Filters and how to install them, based on many years experience using this method (long before it became a fad).

Do Bio Wheels Really Work- An excellent fact based study of the often over hyped Bio Wheel used for biological aquarium filtration.

FISH CARE, HELP, BASICS, ALGAE & MORE

Basics of Shipping Fish- Tips and basics about shipping, Problems to be aware of, Methods and products.

Aquarium Size, Fish Stunting- This article deals with often controversial subject where anecdotal information is most often treated as facts, such as the 1 inch per gallon rule. Regularly updated!

Aquarium Moving/ Power Failures- Opinions and methods for Aquarium moving based o many years experience moving aquariums both short and long distance. This article has some information in common with the Fish Shipping article.

AQUARIUM ALGAE; Removal, Control- Information about these algae: Brown Diatom Algae, Common Green Algae, Thread/ Hair Algae, Marine Hair Algae, BBA/Black Brush Algae/Black Beard Algae/Red Algae, Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae).

Blue Green Algae in Aquariums (Cyanobacteria)- more in depth information that is regularly updated about Cyanobacteria.
Not to be confused with Spirulina Algae such as found in Spirulina 20

Betta Fish Wild Habitat & More - information about the natural habitat of the common Bettas and how it can relate to their care domestically.

SEXING FISH -Basic information about sexing some freshwater fish for beginners (not an article for experts.

STARFISH; Chocolate Chip, Knobby and Fromia.

Octopus as Aquarium Pets

Cyclops, Are these freshwater copepods dangerous in an Aquarium- Information about Cyclops and also Predatory Damselfly larvae that occasionally find their way into aquariums and especially ponds.

GENERAL AQUARIUM/ POND CARE INFORMATION

AQUARIUM SILICONE APPLICATION; Aquarium Repair, Construction- What Silicone to use and what not to use; Also DIY Aquarium Glass Thickness recommendations, repair video, and more.

Aquarium Gravel/Substrate; including pictures - Aquatic substrate recommendations/basics.

SUMMARY

As I also note at Aquarium & Pond Information although some of these articles/posts are more basic in nature, many are more in depth and require a thorough reading to fully understand and picking out snips without reading the full article may yield incomplete information.

A little background; when I first started writing these articles for the internet (something many of my clients asked for years), I made them VERY basic.
My early feedback was rather harsh as many said it was "nothing special", then some who knew me better said that although they were still better than many in content due to less anecdotal information, they did not come close to the delivering the information they knew I could and that my constant research should be reflected.
Many experts in SEO told me similar as well. So now, although some of the articles are still more basic and not all that unique, most however will have well researched information you will not find elsewhere in one location and this information is only best understood when read in full.

I will make my point as to why I feel it is so important that these articles be read in full and not in snips which can result in anecdotal or poor information dissemination;

"In the 1980s I was mentored by an Endocrinologist (MD) whom was also an avid fish keeper (mostly marine). He helped me much understand the ins and outs of medications and one time gave me an in depth medical article that he though had useful information that could be applied to fish as well. Much of the information was not readily easy to understand for me, so I skipped over many sections and gleaned the points I wanted.
Later I was making some points to the Dr. and he stopped me and said I was incorrect and if I had read the article in full, to which I replied, 'no'. He then said that there is no way I could understand this article without reading it in full and applying ALL the information contained there in".
My point is, often it is easy and unfortunately ALL too common in this hobby to read just what we want, and many web sites (such as about.com) are good at satisfying this basically lazy desire (of which I too have been guilty of), however this often leads to poor understandings of the subject or worse.

Back To Top

Other Recommended Reference/Product Sites

The article below is a MUST READ for anyone interested in moving from basic aquarium keeping to more advanced aquarium keeping, including better improved Redox Balance:

Aquarium & Pond 'TRUE' UV Sterilizer Use

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Aquarium Light Information
This is THE article for in-depth, researched, and regularly updated information on the subject of aquarium lighting; a MUST READ!

POND CARE INFORMATION; for a "Clear Pond"

FISH AS PETS AQUATIC NEWS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby
Including these MUST READ articles:
*PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank
*Common Aquarium Keeping Myths
*EcoTech Radion Versus TMC Aqua Ray HO LED Aquarium Lights
*Reef Central; Aquarium UV Sterilizer Hall of Shame

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:36:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 5-9-23

The purpose of this article is not to provide any specific treatment regimen for the readers fish, rather to provide an outline that will provide a better chance for success over the typical "my fish are sick and what medications & how much should I dump into my aquarium" question.
Obviously the starting place is aquarium disease prevention, but many readers will be too late to this aspect of fish husbandry, which is the point of this particular article.

A good professionally written article for prevention of aquarium disease is this one:
"Aquarium Disease Prevention; Proven Steps for a Healthy Aquarium"

Every single step in the above article should be followed to a T and I can guarantee that the incidence of disease will go down greatly.

Hopefully readers will acquaint themselves with this above referenced article which will in part form a basis for this article as I go forward.
As well this article is another good read before one goes forward with any fish treatment:
"Aquarium Medications; Part 1"

I cannot emphasize more that many if not most fish diseases, especially bacterial or fungal in nature (including secondary infections to parasitic infestations) have a background issue. Failure to eliminate this background issue(s) will often result in failure of treatment.
Often the "background issue" is more than half the problem, so a good part of the treatment plan is REMOVING this background issue!!
A good analogy I like to use as to why it is so important to eliminate these issues is this:
"Not correcting causes or background issues is akin to standing in a burning building asking for a treatment for burns, while not leaving the burning building"

Unfortunately in my dealing with questions of what one should treat for a given set of symptoms, I have found that for the majority of these questions, the person asking the question either only addresses underlying issues in part or not at all.
Often this is not because the person does not want to, but they simply do not have the means or the availability for whatever reason to do so.
I would also point out, and while this may seem a bit harsh, it is still the reality, and that is this is still not a valid excuse to continue to ask for alternative treatments or complain to persons such as myself that the treatment failed when proper procedures have not been completely followed.

I personally spend a copious amount of time writing articles, answering questions, or even paying staff to help for free, but please remember that one needs to obviously follow the medication course prescribed, but just as importantly if not more so, deal with ALL underlying causes to a given fish illness problem. So repeatedly going in circles when not following exactly advice given is in my opinion disrespectful to the person who is trying to help you with your fish illness issue.

When you are asking others for help, whether it be online or at your local fish store, make sure you ALWAYS provide background first; including ALL water parameters (mineral Cations too), filtration, maintenance, feeding, & fish kept. Past fish treatment history is important too.
I cannot tell readers how many times people have asked for my help and told me that their water parameters were OK/good, but when pressed to provide actual COMPLETE numbers or I went out personally and checked, the water parameters were anything but OK/good. Often the important KH & GH tests were missed too, partly due many well meaning aquarium keepers fooled into thinking that their "API Master Test Kit" was all they need (a symptom of shopping discounters or getting information from "cut & paste" internet articles, videos or forums).

As an analogy; your personal Doctor always has your history, takes your vital statistics, etc., so why should we expect those we are asking to help us with our sick fish to guess, especially when one considers we often are asking others to help us sight unseen and with far less tools at our disposal than a Doctor would have?

Here first are basic procedures to check off before treating any fish sickness issue:

Make sure ALL water parameters are as they should be. This includes well known and obvious parameters as well as less obvious parameters. This is part of the "background issues I mentioned earlier.
It is also important to know the parameters of any new water used for water changes, so as to make note of any changes that might happen in the aquarium after the water is changed (in other words a baseline). As well, sometimes sudden changes in pH can cause illness in fish, so knowing the pH of new water for water changes versus old water is important.

INCLUDING:
- Ammonia; under .5 ppm (best 0 or less in most circumstances)
  Exposure to high ammonia in the past can be a set up for opportunistic infections in the future due to gill & organ damage (Methylene Blue baths can sometimes help with gill damage, but more so if done immediately).
- Ph; stable within the generally accepted target range of the fish to be kept (if the target range is 6.5 to 7.5, stable at any number there-in)
- KH; this too can vary depending upon fish kept, but generally anywhere from 50 ppm to 150 ppm
  KH (carbonate hardness) can keep an aquarium from pH crashes and knowing your KH on a regular basis can also tell you if it drops rapidly even after adding buffers that your bio load is too high and/or water changes are not adequate. A low or unstable KH can be an indicator or background issue for fungal/Saprolegnia and Aeromonas bacterial issues.
  Further Reading:
  Aquarium Chemistry; KH (Carbonate Hardness)
- Flow and oxygen levels; most persons do not have an oxygen test kit, so having a water flow turnover rate of 5 times for an average non-planted freshwater aquarium usually will indicate adequate oxygen levels
- Bio Load & Decomposition & DOC; a high bio load, often compounded by decomposition of organic and high dissolved organic compounds will often be a breeding ground got Aeromonas and Saprolegnia. Fixing this is as important as any treatment regimen.
  High Nitrates (over 40-50 ppm) can also be a symptom of this issue too.
  Further Reading;
  *Bio Load in Aquarium or Pond
  *Aquarium Nitrates
- Redox and Mineral Cations; this is an aspect of fish care that continued research both in and out of the hobby/industry is proving to be key.
  In diseases such as Columnaris, having a less than optimum Redox whether it be the electromagnetism of the water, missing mineral Cations, low water rH, low or non existent GH, or simply too many free radicals (oxidizers) making for an unbalanced Redox; this is a major aspect in whether you will be successful in treating or just as importantly not have this disease present in the first place (since it is an opportunistic infection).
  
  Other diseases such as HLLE have a direct relation to Redox (or a Redox quality/balance measurement called Relative Hydrogen aka rH). In freshwater, rH should be 23 to 26, otherwise your aquarium may not be as conducive to good health as it could be.
  
  As well GH is a measurement many forget the importance as it has a direct relation to osmoregulation, mineral Cations, Redox & more. For most FW aquariums your GH should be at least 150 ppm, but much higher is still OK and with some fish such as livebearers, puffers, Lake Malawi Cichlids and more; a higher GH is called for.
  
  Further Reading; Aquarium Redox
- Temperature & Temperature History; sudden or even gradual but pronounced swings in temperature can have a major impact on a fish, often with permanent internal organ damage that can lead to opportunistic infections that may not be curable due to slow organ failure.
  An example would be a fish such as a Betta exposed to 90F plus temperatures, this can result in permanent organ damage such as to the kidneys.
Follow ALL professional based treatment regimens when you treat for a disease.
This includes full dose of medications for the recommended days, any baths, swabs or similar if required, increased or decreased water temperatures if required, and use of sodium chloride salt if required (as an example, the last two are required for Columnaris treatment).
This also includes synergistic combinations such as Kanamycin WITH Nitrofurazone for Columnaris and other infections. Using just one or the other as per many professional recommendations is a recipe for failure.

In other words, if a fish bath, dip, or bare isolation/hospital tank is called for in the treatment regimen, this should be used, otherwise do not expect optimum results.

A common medication mistake is using "first aid" treatments such as Melafix for full blown infections, this is analogous to using Neosporin for a staff infection in a human. Then some will make very uninformed statements that "Melafix killed their fish".
Reference: Melafix Dangers; Betta, Labyrinth Fish, Pencil Fish

Another common mistake is using medications that likely not effective for the issue at hand. A common medication here is Metronidazole.
This is an excellent medication when used for what it is called for, but for some reason of late it is commonly used (sometimes in combination products such as General Cure) for fish diseases that are likely deterioration most likely caused by common aerobic gram negative bacteria commonly found in the aquarium and/or "bio filter". Problem is, Metronidazole is most effective with anaerobic gram positive & some anaerobic gram negative bacteria.

Further Reading:
Aquarium Answers article about Fish Baths

Follow ALL recommended fish husbandry aspects of fish care, including water changes, good filtration (including true germicidal filtration), proper mineralization, feeding, even optimal tank size, tank mates and places to hide from aggressive tank mates (example would be a small Mbuna/African Cichlid aquarium with little rock structures for weaker/submissive fish to escape, which can result in stressor that allow a disease such as Columnaris to get a foothold and then even spread to stronger fish in this aquarium).

I have addressed this in part in the overview section of this article, but since optimal aquarium conditions are one of the key aspects of most ALL fish disease treatments, I will note this again and expand a little more on it.

A common line I hear from well meaning aquarium keepers or even well meaning persons giving advice is: "Yes, my water conditions are good, I feed a good fish food, & I used what you stated".
Then I dig deeper and I find out that only part of a treatment is followed, they did not maintain a stable KH, proper mineralization and Redox, and what they assumed was a good fish food is what the person at PetsMart told them was best or they purchased from a large online marketer such as Amazon.
Even if a person has a UV Sterilizer, it often turns out to be just a Clarifier such as a "Green Killing Machine" or the many HOB UV filters they purchased on Amazon that might be great for green water, but does little to address disease prevention.

I cannot emphasize more the reading of these articles:
*"Aquarium Disease Prevention; Proven Steps for a Healthy Aquarium"
*"Aquarium Redox Balance"
*"Aquarium UV Sterilization; Facts & Information"
*"Fish Nutrition"

Consider an online fish care forum that is based on honest researched information, healthy interaction/discussion; and with members that are NOT about popularity and insulting others while lacking true/honest moderation. As well many forums have members and Admins that rarely read experience/researched information that is simply passed around like the telephone game often resulting in inaccurate information being given.
A forum that thinks Amazon is the answer to all your aquarium needs is one to be avoided, especially since many of the best treatments cannot be found here (along with many of the best aquarium products such as UV Sterilizers). It is also noteworthy, that by shopping Amazon, this only hurts professional sellers that support true information websites such as this one.

Here are our suggestions for sick fish care & prevention (the first two are the best places to reach aquarium fish keeping guru Carl Strohmeyer):

HERE IS AN EXCELLENT VIDEO ABOUT THE BEST AVAILABLE TREATMENTS:

AAP Professional Aquarium & Pond Medications

ADVERTISEMENT

Next, here are causes for failure of any fish illness treatment regimen:

My first thought here is to point out that even a Medical Doctor with her/his years of college and later internship and experience along with the medical equipment and test at her/his disposal cannot cure everything, but not addressing underlying issues only complicates any human medical treatment further.
An analogy here is a patient who asks the doctor why he/she had a heart attack at only 42 years old, but fails to recognize the doctors advice that he/she is obese and needs to stop eating a Big Mac burger for breakfast, lunch, & dinner.

Unfortunately, many aquarium keepers will always start with medications or be advised as such (which of course medications are important), however your starting point should ALWAYS be water parameters & diet that provide optimum fish osmoregulation, as little oxidative stress, and as clean as possible water (not over cleaning whereby you wipe your bio filter either).
Quoting from a Doctor who works with refugees whom I just listened to a talk from; He noted many are trained to administer Metronidazole to refugees suffering from malnutrition, and severe dehydration resulting in life threatening diarrhea. He stated world health practices has found this to be totally wrong!
He noted that first get fluids and osmotic balance/electrolytes, and most often the patient will recover without Metronidazole and only administer Metronidazole after recovering the patient from the diarrhea.
DITTO YOUR FISH!

The other aspect of this bullet point is even is you were to follow everything correctly, have all the resources possible, and remove underlying causes; success is NEVER guaranteed.

Failure to follow medication treatment regimen or substitutions for what ever reason.

This is very common cause of failure.
Examples of failure to follow instruction include using just Kanamycin when the synergistic blend of Kanamycin and Nitrofurazone are called for to treat infections such as Columnaris. OR often even when blended, often aquarium keepers will utilize the less effective Furan 2 which calls for a different treatment schedule, when a better blend with AAP's Yellow Powder/Premium Nitrofurazone is the better choice (AAP Yellow Powder/Premium Nitrofurazone generally only requires the one initial treatment with Kanamycin followed by 2-3 more Kanamyacin/Kanaplex treatments).
Either one or the other will generally result in failure!
Or another example is if a Medicated Wonder shell is needed in addition to the above noted combination example to lower oxidative stress for a serious multi-pathogen or unknown issue, the chance of success on a likely difficult situation will be lower.

Reference: "Aquarium Medications; Part 1"

Product Resources:
* AAP Yellow Powder/Premium Nitrofurazone
* AAP/SeaChem Kanaplex (Please support this article and the professional aquarium keeping industry/hobby by purchasing here rather than discounters such as eBay and Amazon)
* AAP Premium Wonder Shells; (the ONLY Authorized full-line online retailer with the freshest product, unlike clearance product sold elsewhere including Amazon. Like a battery, Wonder Shells loose their Cation charge over time, so purchasing cheap/clearance product is not wise)

Similar to the above is taking advice from multiple sources/people.
The problem with trying to blend multiple different advice methods into one treatment is these are often conflicting and could result in over medication. This is NOT to say there is only one way to treat a specific problem, but I can state from decades of experience and client sick fish calls that combining treatment methods often results in failure!!

Genetics & poor breeding.
This is more common than many know, especially with fish such as Betta and goldfish which are heavily inbred for certain attributes with fish physiology be damned, thus resulting in very genetically weak fish (think about how many pedigree dogs are also over bred).

Poor care such as over crowding with resulting high ammonia exposure at some time in the life of the fish resulting in permanent organ damage that makes a fish susceptible to disease and treatment difficult later in life.
This is common with carnival goldfish, but again common with Bettas in how they are shipped and kept right up to their purchase.

As noted in the first section, as to following ALL optimal husbandry practices, when this is not done this can make a treatment less effective or not effective at all.
Often the result is that a more mild treatment regimen that WOULD WORK IN OPTIMAL CONDITIONS will not work, while a strong, sometimes harsh treatment, still will work. Then anecdotal observations that treatment A does not work while treatment B does, when in reality using more scientific method, we find this observation is not true by virtue that that treatment A was not given a fair chance to succeed via better fish husbandry standards.
I have seen this incorrect observation in social media as per ParaGuard versus Quick Cure for Ich treatment or General Cure versus Levamisol for worm treatments (the first in each example representing the more mild treatment).

Poor Diet.
This also does not need to be a current poor diet, it can be a past poor diet and in fact generally is since diet issues rarely show up immediately.
Diet issues include renal (Kidney) failure due to incorrect or poorly optimized protein levels, too low fiber, and fatty liver disease from too high of energy levels again instead of optimum levels (optimum is 280 energy points).
These are unfortunately quite common as even most of the best of fish food diets that use top notch ingredients do NOT optimize! This is even a bigger problem with most common fish foods fed.
A few examples as per exceeding optimum energy levels are: New Life Spectrum at 329, Cobalt Fish Foods at 420, and Wardleys' at a whopping 501 energy points!

A seemingly contradictory point is that while long term fish health is provided by fish foods with low energy levels and higher fiber content, fish foods that are pre-digested and higher in energy levels is often best while treating sick fish. A good example here would be AAP/Gamma NutraShots which can be thought of as a frozen food that does not need to be frozen and stimulates natural feeding behavior.

Unfortunately once the fish is sick due to past poor diets, even improved diets often cannot correct the issue, thus resulting in failure of treatment. This is especially true for Dropsy and other causes of bloating and even for Columnaris.

Reference: Fish Nutrition

Recommended Fish Foods:
*AAP Custom Premium Optimized Fish Food
*AAP Spirulina 20
*AAP/Gamma NutraShots

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

AAP Hydro Sponge Filters

THE PREMIUM Aquarium Sponge Filter with as much as 5 TIMES the bio and mechanical capacity of commonly sold Chinese knock offs!!
Definitely worth the extra $1-3

UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs; Aquarium or Pond
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, for aquarium or pond

PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up!
Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAT MORE!

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter (far superior to 4 stage RO/DI systems sold via Bulk Reef Supply, Amazon, or eBay that use the inferior cellulose triacetate membrane made by Dow):
Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Sat, 19 Mar 2016 19:53:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 5-18-23

Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish, primarily SA Cichlids

Whirling disease is a disease of freshwater fish caused by the myxozoan parasite Myxobolus cerebralis. This infection/infestation is most commonly found in the wild found in the salmonid family of fish, however is not very common with most fish kept in aquariums except under the right conditions and that come from certain sources.

What is noteworthy mostly for prevention is that the parasite has two hosts — the fish itself and a freshwater oligochaete worm, popularly known as the Tubifex tubifex. This is a major reason these worms should not be fed, but unfortunately are a common source of cheap protein for many fish farms, especially those selling to discounters.
This has been documented in particular with Cichlids coming from certain fish farms.

There are two spore stages for Myxobolus cerebralis, one released from the fish and infective for worms, the other released from worms and infective for fish. Generally, the earlier the fish is first exposed and the higher the parasite exposure dose, the greater is the severity of the disease.
Water temperature also has an influence on all stages of the parasite life cycle since it slows its cycle over 70°F (21°C), as spores are released from the worm host when the temperature is between 10°C and 15° C.
However once infected, and while a higher temperature will check the spread, it will not significantly help for an infected fish based on my experience.

"Whirling Disease" gets its name from the radical tail-chasing swimming behavior of heavily and often fatally infected fish.
Clinical signs result from the presence of the parasite spores in the cartilage, causing inflammatory changes and pressure on spinal nerves. However, fish may become infected with the parasite and never show clinical signs; resulting in a difficult positive diagnosis of infection in these fish.

Reference: Disease Strategy Manual - Whirling disease

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SIGNS OF INFECTION/DIAGNOSIS

Please note that symptoms do not always appear and even then these symptoms do not confirm a diagnosis of Myxobolus cerebralis, only microscopic slides can confirm.

Infected Fish will "whirl" forward in an awkward, corkscrew-like pattern instead of swimming normally. This behavior change generally takes about 35 to 80 days after initial infection.
So if you have had your fish for 6 months in an aquarium kept at 80°F (27°C), most likely your fish does NOT have Whirling Disease

It is much more common for new fish to be infected with Myxobolus cerebralis, especially that come from discounters selling fish from fish farms utilizing ponds or using Tubliflex worms as a cheap source of protein.
It is also noteworthy that this is more commonly a disease of cooler water fish based on the life cycle, HOWEVER, I have had several confirmed cased of Whirling Disease in Cichlids in particular.

Fish infected with worms also infected with Myxobolus cerebralis may have lower body mass and may be discolored in the area near the tail

This video below shows a trout with advanced "Whirling Disease", also displaying darkening of the tail that sometimes occurs in advanced stages.

YouTube; Whirling Disease

TREATMENT

Prevention is the #1 treatment; KNOW YOUR FISH SOURCE or your Retailers fish source!
Retailers selling fish distributed by Aquatropic is a good starting point.
Reference: Aquatropic

Nitrofurazone (Either pharmaceutical grade AAP Furacyn or lower grade Furan 2) combined with AAP Super Ich Plus or ParaGuard for in tank treatment.
Methylene Blue, sodium chloride, along with Super Ich Plus or ParaGuard in a Fish Bath
And Metronidizole & praziquantel as part of a fish food soak.

Further Fish Bath Information:
Fish Baths, Dips, Swabs

Further Fish Food Medications Soak Information
Aquarium Medications; Food Delivery of Medications

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Metronidizole
*AAP ParaGuard
*AAP Super Ich Plus
)*AAP Yellow Powder; Premium Nitrofurazone Blend (Best
*AAP Nitrofurazone/Furan 2
*AAP General Cure (source of BOTH Praziquantel/Metronidizole)

An excellent product, Naladixic Acid, can also work for "Whirling Disease", and even more so for symptoms that often mimic Whirling disease in aquarium (but are not actually true Whirling disease). This medication was often very effective from my experience in certain cases and when combined with products such as Metronidazole or Medicated Wonder Shells, especially for Discus and other Cichlids.
Thankfully AAP has been able to bring back Naladixic Acid in the form of the product "Naladin".

Recommended Product Sources:
*AAP Naladixic Acid
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

AAP/SeaChem Cupramine can also help (more as a preventative for unaffected fish), not as much as a treatment.
Ditto the Medicated Wonder Shell which has some of the same form of copper as Cupramine and ha the bonus of improving mineral Cations/electrolytes in the aquarium .

Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shells
*AAP Cupramine

References:

*Ichthyophonus in Fish
A similar disease in both symptoms and the fact both are more common in cooler waters or carried from cooler waters.

*Wikipedia; Myxobolus cerebralis

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Freshwater Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced

Premium UVC Replacement Lamps
For TRUE Premium, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output bulbs/lamps commonly sold at Amazon & eBay

Premium USDA Aquarium Safe Silicones

*Columnaris & Fungus Infections in Fish

*How Aquarium Medications Work; Part 1

The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Titanium Submersible Heaters:

Aquarium Heaters

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up! Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!

Reef Aquarium Chemistry Maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Wed, 17 Feb 2016 21:31:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 6/12/2023

CALCIUM

Calcium is an essential element required by our reef aquarium. It is the building block for many hard corals, but is still required by all reef inhabitants, even fish! Your reef aquarium calcium level should be 400-450 ppm.
Since fish in marine environments constantly drink the water around them, they have a chemistry that is in sync with their environment.
A regular dosing/supply of calcium also supplies essential mineral Cations that again all reef inhabitants require.

Further Reading:
*Do Fish Drink? Osmoregulation in Fish
*Aquarium Redox, Including Cation replacement

Use of popular Calcium Chloride Dehydrate products only or along with economy Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate products sold by discount bulk suppliers can result in a slow build up of sodium chloride even with a stable specific gravity or salinity, resulting in less than optimal ionic balance for your reef aquarium. This over time is generally difficult to measure by marine/reef keepers, with the result of marine aquarium keepers potentially looking in to incorrect reasons for declining results (such as lighting).

This is where the 3 step AAP Balling Method is superior as NO additional Sodium Chloride is added nor is it concentrated.
The AAP Balling method also eliminates the use of a calcium reactor.
By not using a calcium reactor, this creates some other benefits:
-The pH of the whole tank can be maintained at a higher level, because no acidic calcium reactor effluent are added to the tank anymore.
-The addition of the balling mix provides all the depletion of elements.

Videos explaining the "Balling Method":

AAP Balling Method Reef Tank Dosing | Chemistry | Calicum | Alkalinity

The Balling Method explained by Hans-Werner Balling

Recommended Product Resources (sponsors this hobby with websites such as this):
*AAP Bio-Calcium Original Balling Set; Parts A/B/C.
*SeaChem/AAP Reef Advantage Calcium

Other methods of calcium maintenance include Kalkwasser, Calcium reactors, and products such as "Reef Calcium; polygluconate".

While Kalkwasser is popular among many advanced marine aquarists, caution should be used with this method of adding calcium to your marine aquarium. This is not to say Kalkwasser does not work, in fact introduced properly it is an excellent way to regulate calcium and alkalinity in saltwater aquariums.

Here is how Kalkwasser works:
Used properly Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free Carbon Dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions.
However if you drip too fast or if there is not enough Carbon Dioxide available in the water, Carbonate ions will be formed which will make the Ca++ you are trying to add to your tank get wasted by the useless precipitation of Calcium Carbonate (often forming a white residue that precipitates out of your aquarium).
This too rapid addition of Kalkwasser may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go down instead of up.
See the equation below:
Ca++ + 2(HCO3-) + Ca++ + 2(OH-) <==> 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O

Often even a slow drip of Kalkwasser (Calcium Hydroxide) can cause the above reaction if there is not enough CO2 present in your marine aquarium.
One method to avoid this is to add 15ml of 5% Distilled White Vinegar (Acetic Acid) into a 1 liter or 1 quart container.
Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of Kalkwasser into the Acetic Acid, and then dilute to 1 liter (1 quart) volume with either RO/DI water (tank water can be used in a pinch).

A Calcium Generator/Reactor is another popular method for maintenance of calcium and alkalinity as well as KH/pH regulation, especially in marine/reef tanks heavily stocked with stony corals.
A calcium Reactor works by providing a steady stream of calcium (and some Strontium too) by using CO2 in the reactor. The CO2 then "reacts" with the Calcium Carbonate producing calcium ions and carbonate ions (the carbonate ions increase alkalinity).
Although I have NOT had an instance where this was an "essential" device for my reef tanks, it can be very useful for previously noted reasons.
I have also had issues of too much CO2 getting into the marine/reef aquarium resulting in drops in pH and Alkalinity. This is not to say CO2 is "bad" for a marine/reef aquarium as it is needed for photosynthesis in the same way it is needed in a freshwater planted aquarium, however a CO2 level that constantly crashes your pH/Alkalinity is simply too much CO2!

Under normal circumstances/conditions a Fluidized Filter utilizing Oolitic sand media can accomplish similar results, however for high bio load reef tanks with large amounts of stony corals, a Calcium Reactor will produce more calcium.

Kalkwasser and Calcium Reactor Information Referenced from:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Use Of Kalkwasser, Calcium Reactors

Resource for basic but accurate Calcium Test Kit:
API/AAP Calcium Test Kit

Resource high performance Fluidized Sand Bed Filters:
Fluidized Sand Bed Filters from AAP

ALKALINITY

Which is better Sodium Carbonate vs Bicarbonate?

First what is the chemical difference:
Sodium Carbonate = NaCO3--
Sodium Bicarbonate = NaHCO3- (the "Bi" means two, as in H + CO3)

Next, a little about pH since alkalinity is what generally stabilizes pH in our aquariums.
pH = a measurement of H+ and the more H+ the lower the pH and less Alkalinity in short. Molar value wise, it takes twice as much as Bicarbonate as Carbonate to raise the Alkalinity up 1 Equilibrium unit. Volume wise it is 0.6 tsp of Bicarbonate vs. 0.4 tsp of Carbonate to raise the Alkalinity 1 milliequivalent (mEq) / or 2.8 dKH in 10 gals.
Weight wise, is it is 3 grams vs. 2 grams.

Bicarbonate, due to that H, has less impact on pH than Carbonate.
Bicarbonate is mostly for raising the Alkalinity along with pH maintenance, while Carbonate is for raising the Alkalinity and pH.

Carbonate used only by itself should only be used if you have a low pH and Alkalinity. If it's to buffer up the Alkalinity, Bicarbonate is better.

Generally in a healthy/balanced reef aquarium where excess CO2 is not being produced or introduced (such as with a Calcium Reactor), a Bicarbonate is the better choice for an ionically blended bicarbonate with other elements in ionic balance such as SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder or used in the balling Method, NOT an economy Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate that is often sold by bulk aquarium supply discounters.
My experience has shown that Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate will not show up as a problem short term, but long term this WILL show up with lower alkalinity reserves and a slowly deteriorating ionic balance over time (unless large water changes are performed regularly with a quality marine salt blend). This will also show up as a less than desirable rH over time.

Recommended Product Resource (sponsors this hobby with websites such as this):
SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder

Sodium (Na+) more or less accumulates over time, as does the SO4 and Chlorides from non-ionically balanced use of calcium supplements, alkaline buffers, and minor/trace elements. This is why water changes are often needed to keep the chemistry in balance even though specific gravity/salinity is "spot on". Hence my recommendation of the AAP Balling Method or ionically SeaChem supplements.

It is common for the pH to drop over night, especially if the alkalinity is less than 8 dKH. This pH drop is from animals and plants giving off CO2 at night. The reason why it may not hold at a lower Alkalinity is also a night thing of animals and plants "leaching" out things more so, which can have a greater impact on the Alkalinity and pH as they yield acids.
A common limnological [1] term for Alkalinity is ANC ("Acid Neutralizing Capacity"). These affect the pH and Alkalinity. Although it's not often heard of in the aquarium keeping hobby, there's also Acidity, BNC, ("Base Neutralizing Capacity"). It's the opposite of Alkalinity.

Recommended discussion:
Sodium Carbonate vs Bicarbonate; from Manhattan Reefs

References:
[1] "Limnology": The scientific study of the life and phenomena of fresh water, especially lakes and ponds (Adj. limnological - of or relating to limnology).

TRACE/MINOR ELEMENTS

Many trace and some minor elements are not depleted at the same rate as alkalinity and calcium. In my experience not every reef or even marine fish/FOWLR aquarium is the same when it comes to depletion of trace, minor, or major elements.
There is also disagreement among many with what is a minor, trace or major element with websites such as "Live Aquaria" calling Strontium a major element, where as based on its percentage it clearly falls into the category of minor or trace element.

SEE THE LIST BELOW FOR THE MAKE UP OF THE OCEAN:

Chloride- 55.03%
Sodium- 30.59%
Sulfate- 7.68%
Magnesium- 3.68%
Calcium- 1.18%
Potassium- 1.11%
Bicarbonate- 0.42%
Bromide- 0.19%
Borate- 0.08%
Strontium- 0.04%
Fluoride- 0.003%
Other- less than 0.001%

Regardless of what we call each element, it's important to keep your reef or even fish only marine aquariums as close to natural percentages as possible. Although we often find keeping Calcium slightly higher works to our advantage in the closed system most any marine aquarium is in reality.

For this reason, we need to find a method, which works best for us AND our aquarium, not what seems like the method de-jour of the day. As well, just because something might seem more complex, does not necessarily make it better either.
So, if you are a beginner, do NOT feel pressured by the so-called pros in many forums, which insist that it's their way or the highway (this is also not to say their method does not work, only that often these over involved methods do not work any better than more simple methods).

As noted earlier, also be careful of popular economy methods, which use bulk Soda Ash Sodium Carbonate and Calcium, then leave out elements, which often get used in conjunction at similar rates such as Magnesium and Strontium. This is still why I prefer the SeaChem or Complete Balling Method over the Economy dosing, Calcium Reactor, or Kalkwasser methods.

Here are a few key Minor/Trace Elements:

Strontium: Many marine organisms use strontium in the development of their skeletons. Depletion results in poor growth rates in both hard corals and coralline algae.
Strontium is provided by SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder and Reef Advantage Calcium in ionic balance, which generally replenishes the Strontium to the correct balance. As well the Balling method naturally replaces the correct balance of Strontium in step 3 if this generally simple method is followed correctly.
Strontium is also replenished with the use of a calcium reactor, but not as often in correct ionic balance. It is NOT replenished with the Kalkwasser method or the economy methods without supplementations and often then ionic balance is NOT achieved from my experience.

Magnesium: Magnesium, is partly responsible for the regulation of pH and the formation of your invertebrates' skeletons. However, while a large percentage of saltwater consists of magnesium (more than calcium), it's used at a much slower rate than calcium or strontium.
Generally if SeaChem/AAP Reef Builder and Reef Advantage Calcium are used OR the complete Balling method, supplementation is NOT necessary.

If your magnesium is regularly depleted or lower than normal (between 1200 and 1400 ppm.), I would question your supplementation methods and quality of marine salt mix used.
As well, the argument I have heard that magnesium should be monitored closely or should be supplemented separately based on the fact magnesium makes up a large percentage of seawater does not " hold water" (pardon the pun), any more that we as humans need to be concerned with nitrogen in the air as it makes up the largest percentage of air molecules (much more than O2).
Again, as I noted earlier, with proper supplementation and reef salt mix use, magnesium is rarely, if ever an issue and even then it is more to keep your magnesium at proper ionic concentration/balances with other salts/elements in the water.

Recommended Resource if needed:
SeaChem/AAP Reef Advantage Magnesium

Iodine and Iodide: - Iodine is essential for the health of many soft corals such as Xenia and may also have antibiotic properties in stony coral aquariums. Iodine may also enhance stony coral coloration.
Iodine often is rapidly oxidized in a marine reef aquarium (not so much a marine fish aquarium).
I have found additional supplementation is necessary even with use of the before mentioned SeaChem/AAP products or with Calcium Reactors, Kalkwasser and most certainly economy bulk methods. However, less supplementation (if any) is needed with the Complete Balling Method.

Recommended Resource:
SeaChem/AAP Reef Iodide

Iron: Iron is used by photosynthetic invertebrates and plants as it provides added nourishment to the photosynthetic cells. Lack if this minor element can result in poor coloring, growth, and expansion within these organisms.
Generally supplementation is not required with normal water changes and/or the use of the Complete Balling Method.

Molybdenum: Molybdenum is trace element known to aid the biological processes of many of the beneficial strains of bacteria.

Other/General Trace Elements; There are many more trace elements as per my earlier list (which itself is not a complete list).
Generally with products such as SeaChem/AAP Reef Trace, AAP SeaLab, or the Complete 3 Step Balling Method and along with water changes with a quality marine/reef salt mix, these are replenished.
SeaChem/AAP Reef Trace includes the before mentioned Molybdenum too.

AAP Sea Lab Blocks are essentially a marine version of the popular AAP Wonder Shell and are an excellent & simple choice for "Fish Only" or "FOWLR marine aquariums".
With the regular and "system size" AAP Sealab, I do still recommend using AAP/SeaChem Marine Buffer to supplement alkalinity maintenance.

Of course starting with a good premium reef salt mix is important as well (if not more so for serious reef or marine fish keepers).
I recommend Tropic Marin Pro Reef Mix from Germany as it is clearly the best, although there are many other good/viable reef capable mixes available as well (& many not so good too).

In fact as per a premium marine/reef salt mix, there is wide difference in quality between Tropic Marin and most others in quality, mix-ability, and of course price.
But even when it comes to price, when one considers that with a premium salt, you will use less additives and more importantly have higher longevity among marine inhabitants, the price difference over time becomes much lower.
Even if you are a "bulk reef price shopper", you will often find that you will either pay at the beginning (with an optimized marine salt such as AAP Tropic Marin) or pay at the end with the need to purchase much more in additives, more time spent chasing "numbers", and maybe even more due to shorter lived livestock!

Beware of non-scientific reasoning that states I used salt mix 'X' or 'Y' for years with good results for years with no problems.
This is not scientific reasoning, as many marine aquarium inhabitants can live under quite extreme environments but for maybe high ammonia or similar. I've come across many new marine clients water that had salinity either way too low or way too high with poor chemistry parameters too yet their was still life in the aquarium.
The difference shows up in longevity and resistant too disease or similar problems. In fact, in experiments with Cephalopods (Octopii) which have short lifespans and are more sensitive to certain water parameters than many other commonly kept marine aquarium inhabitants and found marked differences in lifespans using a premium salt mix such as Tropic Marin versus the majority of popular brands.

Recommended Resources:
*SeaChem/AAP Reef Trace
*AAP SeaLab
*AAP/SeaChem Marine Buffer (for Fish only, FOWLR aquariums)
*AAP Bio-Calcium Original Complete Balling Set; Parts A/B/C.
*Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany

TO SUM IT UP:

The marine aquarium has to have some basic chemistry understanding to maintain a successful tank. There are a handful of methods, which use different dosing methods, based on science and budget.
The most popular method used is different between different groups/nationalities of reef keepers. While there might be different successful ways to keep aquariums, with many examples, there are methods, which have been proven to be more successful than others, when looking at the details of the tank health.

What I personally find frustrating is not the different methods, often that involve understandable budgets; is rather the insistence by some, often by popular persons in social media that certain aspects are essential while ignoring aspects that would actually make more difference.

Case in point is the myth perpetuated by marketers and then picked by non discerning (or paid off) popular YouTube channels or other social media personalities that the use of DI water is essential for marine reef aquariums, all the while using inferior salt mixes or alkalinity and calcium maintenance methods.
All the addition of a DI chamber does for you is lower TDS somewhat compared to a good RO system and remove ions that would result in a residual higher pH (assuming the pH was high in the tap water).

Saltwater by nature is high in TDS and your tap water has to meet certain standards for toxins such as arsenic, so running a GOOD RO unit (not a cheap poorly made one) should lower your TDS enough to be sure there is nothing toxic of any consequence. Better to then spend your money on better slat mixes and better marine chemistry maintenance rather than doing this part "on the cheap" as many do while wasting their money on elaborate RO/DI systems after falling for the "cut and paste marketing".
Really about the ONLY time you would need this additional DI chamber is if you are on a well with very high nitrates (a good RO system still removes most nitrates) or you are running off from a home water softener unit.

Funny thing is, these same persons who will argue the use of getting every last TDS because they worry about 1 part in a billion of arsenic or similar are the same ones who have argued the use of why they should use a USDA approved silicone for their aquarium instead of a cheap unapproved hardware brand silicone or a less efficient but popular LED fixture that now have come to dominate the market despite simple science.

Further Reading:
*Aquarium Silicone, Tank Repair, Applications, DIY, How To Use
*Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
*Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information

Keeping a reef tank as close as possible to natural ocean water conditions has always been the advanced marine keepers goal. With the addition of dosing a third part of trace minerals, which help keep an ionic balance, this really is the closest to natural sea water any aquarium keeper can keep. These minerals listed in this Reef Chemistry Article and the suggestions on how to maintain, really are the best current professional advice anyone can take and apply to their reef tank.

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

Saltwater Aquarium Information; Basic to Advanced

Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization/p>

AAP Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Bio Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with Oolitic Sand also maintain essential marine aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more

Nutramar Nori- Seaweed (25 Sheet)

All natural roasted green seaweed, perfect for feeding marine herbivores and omnivores such as tangs, butterflies, and angelfish.
Enticing, nutritious, and easy to feed.Ingredients: Contains pure Pyropia sp. algae. No preservatives, artificial colors, or ingredients.

Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Wed, 27 Jan 2016 22:41:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 8-5-23

INDEX of this article:

Reverse Osmosis or DI Filter Information, Use

What each component of an RO/DI System Removes (Chloramines, nitrates, etc.). IMPORTANT!

Distilled Water

Correct Use of RO, DI (or Distilled), or Rain water in Aquariums or Betta Tanks

Why to NOT use Water Softener Water (or sodium based products) in Aquariums

Necessary Minerals

MUST READ Companion Article: Do Fish Drink? Osmoregulation in Fish

OVERVIEW:

While the use of Reverse Osmosis and/or De-ionized water has been around for quite some time, their use has exploded of late, often for good reasons, but unfortunately there is a lot of miss-information about how these systems work (including in a popular YouTube video) and gimmicky products that over sell the less experienced aquarium keeper.
I have used both types of equipment over the last few decades, and this includes variations within such as the use of Cellulose acetate membranes which are the oldest form of commercial RO membranes, yet still used along with lower quality TFC membranes, in most RO and RO/DI combinations to keep the price MUCH lower!

Re-mineralization after use of RO and/or DI water and essential minor and trace elements/minerals is also discussed.

I also address the use of water that has passed through typical home/office water softeners and why the use of such water poses a serious long term threat to ANY fish' health.

Here is a basic video about this subject:

Do I Really Need Aquarium RODI? With A Catch...

RO (REVERSE OSMOSIS) AND/OR DI (DI-IONIZED) SYSTEMS FOR AQUARIUMS

*FIRST, WHAT IS RO WATER?

RO/Reverse Osmosis water is simply water that is run under pressure through a micron pre-filter, then a carbon pre-filter & finally a osmonic membrane.
For reef keepers, these are often a must and at a cost of just pennies per gallon, often well worth the investment over paying .25 cents per gallon.
For Discus keepers and similar biotope aquarium RO or RO/DI units can also be helpful.

The membrane is the most expensive part of a RO unit and is rated in gallons per day (gpd).
With water that is too hot or cold (the ideal operating temperature is between 70-80 F or 21-27 C), along with low water pressure (psi), and high TDS (total dissolved solids) all will combine to slow the rated capacity of a RO Unit & membrane. High TDS will also affect the life of the membrane.
Often the pressure provided by the tap water is adequate, however with high capacity RO Units additional boost pumps are required (usually units over 100 gpd which require 65 to 80 psi).

The few top quality aquarium RO units still produced use TFC Medical Grade (thin film composite, sold by Pentair USA) membranes which is much better for removal of ammonia, phosphates, herbicides, pesticides, and TDS.
Reference: https://xflow.pentair.com/en/technologies/filtration-spectrum

Other units still utilize the popular Economy TFC membranes sold by Dow under the Trade Mark of FilmTec. This includes the Coralife, which I have considerable experience with along with Bulk Reef Supply & many others.

The other common type is the CTA, a.k.a. the cellulose triacetate membrane (also sold by Dow & others) which is used in low cost RO units commonly sold by discounters such as Amazon. Cellulose acetate membranes are the oldest form of commercial RO membranes and the lowest cost to produce, hence the much lower costs of systems utilizing these.

For those thinking they may have gotten a good deal on a RO system that claims to use a TFC membrane, I will remind readers of basic economics and that is while many sellers will price a system low to get a customer and then make the money on parts (think about the cost of HP printers, then the cost of replacement ink), if the replacement parts are at or near the cost of a top quality TFC membrane, then you do NOT have a unit/system utilizing a top quality membrane.
I have used many different RO units and the the results (before passing through a DI chamber) in higher waste water, higher TDS and other measurable aspects such as GH are notable.

Below is a screen-shot from the manufacture/distributor order web site of the cost a retailer will pay for these items Pentair membranes. If the replacement retail price is at or near these prices, then unless it is a clearance item, it is not a high quality TFC membrane (simple economics 101):

I, along with the person who purchased my aquarium maintenance, research, and design company have used the Coralife RO and RO/DI systems. While they claim to use the TFC, our results were not the same as with other units that cost considerably more for the membrane, which again brings up the argument that I can purchase wholesale a 100 GPD Coralife membrane for $25 (or less) but the better Pentair USA medical grade membrane used by several high end RO and RO/DI systems have a wholesale cost of $50.

Keep in mind too that FilmTec is a Dow Trademark and does NOT mean this is a TFC Membrane or if it is, the best TFC since price determines quality here.
The Filmtec can be either the TFC or CTA. The Dow Economy FILMTEC FT30 Membranes are TFC, however many models are not, so make sure to do your homework and apply common sense logic as per economics whether it is the CTA, TFA or a better medical grade TFC such as the Pentair USA TFC Membrane.
Example Reference: Filmtec Cellulose Triacetate Membrane

A test of an RO or RO/DI system/filter is if the reject water is higher than three gallons of water for every one gallon I would question the quality of the membrane used. This can result in concentration of ammonia as I have noted in experiments in the past.

Also be aware that CTA membranes lower permeability requires higher pressures so booster pumps may be needed for optimum efficiency.
This is especially true if you use a RO system that uses twin membranes as a way to increase output while keeping the purchase cost lower than would be the case with a higher GPD membrane.
Even with a TFC membrane (regardless of membrane quality), I do not advise twin membrane systems as this increases the pressure needed to run the system, often complicating the system or lowering efficiency if a booster pump is not added.

Both membranes are damaged by chlorine, which is one reason for the carbon pre-filter (canister).
The membrane should be changed every 2-3 years or 12,000-18,000 of total water produced (whichever occurs first).

A properly functioning membrane will work effectively after a 2-3 gallon break-in (throw this water out), after this initial start up, you should have 1 gallon of "good" water for every 3 gallons of reject water. If higher, this can concentrate molecules that the RO membrane cannot remove (which is why spending a few extra $$ for a good RO unit such as the TMC designed specifically for aquarium use is worth it, not looking for the best deal via eBay, Amazon, or popular Aquarium Supply discounters).

To the right is proof that the quality on many levels of the RO system affects simple RO results.
Here you see a high TDS before and ZERO TDS after WITHOUT EVER USING A DI Chamber!!
This is using the ultra premium AAP/TMC RO System.

RO System Product Resource: Tropic Marine Centre V2 Pure Reverse Osmosis System using Pentai USA Membranes

TDS Monitor Resource: TMC Total Dissolved Solids Monitor

Generally speaking, a well maintained RO unit will reject about 97%+ of TDS.

DI SYSTEM OR COMPONENT OF RO/DI SYSTEM/FILTER:

*DI Unit; which stand for "De-Ionized".
Most commercially available DI units are simply a RO unit with an additional DI canister/chamber following the RO membrane (API makes a basic DI only unit though). This chamber utilizes resins that further remove TDS from water.
With this system, you can achieve 0 mineral cations and a TDS of 0 after starting with tap water over 250 TDS, while this same tap water run through a RO only unit would generally result in about 7 TDS at most with a quality RO only system (I average only 2-3 TDS with the "top of the line" AAP/TMC RO System).
You will also achieve a pH of 7 since a DI unit or chamber affects ionization where as a RO by itself does not.

For my purposes I found that a well designed TFC (thin film composite) RO only unit was/is more than adequate, however if you are making water for extremely sensitive purposes (such as a car battery), or have high ammonia levels in your tap water, a DI/RO unit may be the better choice for you over a RO only unit.
The reason is much of what the additional DI chamber/resin removes is mineral cations as well as all charged molecules (electrolytes).

Which is why DI water is better for a car battery, but these few mineral cations missed by RO only units are not a problem for any freshwater or saltwater aquarium (unless run off from a Home/Office Water Softener) and in fact these ions are generally beneficial.
As well the operating costs of DI chambers are very high as I have had to replace the resins in these chambers as frequently as once per week with some units under high use.

Another alternative is the "API Tap Water Filter" which is nothing more than a large disposable de-ionization resin filter with built in carbon and filter floss. With this filter you basically throw way 90% of the filter when exhausted.
This filter does not utilize any other chambers or RO membranes of any type.
The API Tap Water De-Ionization Filter is a very economical way to purchase such a filter, but very expensive long term. I have used these and found the chamber is only good for about 100 gallons of water, which is not a bad deal for a Betta keeper desiring to mix pure water or cut their tap water, but it makes little sense for a Reefer, Discus Keeper, or Planted Aquarium Keeper that needs volumes or water.

The bottom line is to NOT believe the some of the hype some sellers of Four to Six Stage RO/DI units put forth and save your money (both initially and ongoing) and purchase a QUALITY TFC RO only water system which WILL result in 0 phosphates, 0 nitrates, and chloramines along with very low TDS readings with less reject water and lower operating costs.
I will also state that these Four to Six Stage RO/DI systems are certainly not bad either, only that why spend the money, including ongoing DI resin replacement for a good RO/DI system when a better RO system is all you need??

There is a good reason some of these 4-6 stage RO/DI units can be sold at prices comparable to or even lower than top quality TFC 3 stage RO systems and and this is the use of (consider these points before falling for the gimmicks):

Double membranes to make up for upgraded membrane sizes,

Lower quality carbon (instead of catalytic carbon),

Use of CTA or less than medical grade TFC membranes,

Simply poor designs (very common) that do not optimize water pressure/flow resulting in a lower effectiveness, even if a good membrane is used!!!
One example that that not all RO and RO/DI systems are generic containers as is often incorrectly stated:
https://www.google.com/patents/US8206581

What you will get is a long term higher operating cost since replacement resins are not cheap, and again in most aquarium applications, not necessary as per my own long term and extensive use and testing!

As noted earlier, another test of an RO or RO/DI system/filter is if the reject water is higher than three gallons of water for every one gallon I would question the quality of the membrane used. This can result in concentration of ammonia as I have noted in experiments in the past.
Often these economy RO/DI systems sold by popular discounters will have higher reject water.

There are really only two MAYBE reasons to purchase a unit that also features de-ionization:

If your tap water has high ammonia or is in a municipality that uses chloramines (such as some SW USA locations). An expensive to operate DI chamber are often are only good for about 50 gallons and make little difference for chloramines if well designed (some of the cheap Amazon/eBay units are not).

If the RO unit is well designed using quality catalytic carbon (such as the TMC models), the fact is these will remove chloramines.

References:
*Removing Chloramines from Water
* Catalytic Carbon for Chloramine Removal

You want to run your system directly off from a home or office water softener that uses sodium chloride or potassium chloride, since these systems radically alter the mineral ions in ways detrimental to fish and invertebrates (reference section about use of home water softeners later in this article).
The use of an RO system only will not remove much of the sodium ions that can be detrimental to your aquarium health (which includes osmotic function of fish).
In fact this is a case where by the use of an RO/DI system, operating costs would actually be lower than an RO only that is run off from tap water or well water.

WHAT EACH COMPONENT OF AN RO/DI SYSTEM REMOVES (Chloramines, nitrates, etc.)

This is another aspect of misinformation is what is removed by a particular component of an RO or RO/DI system. This misinformation is even spread by one of the largest sellers online of large RO/DI systems that are often not necessary for aquarium use, both freshwater and salt water, but based on this misinformation, many are unfortunately convinced that they need these additional components.

This list below is based on a properly functioning RO/DI system, as often additional modules of water purification are needed if one module/component does not completely remove undesirable elements of input water such as nitrates.

Sediment/Micron Pre-Filter;
The main purpose of this chamber/component of a RO/DI system is to remove sediments such as rust from the water.
From my experience, these sediment filters generally range from 1 to 20 micron in pore size.
These should be changed frequently to maintain pressure for the rest of the unit as well as extend the life of the membrane. How often you need to change it can vary greatly.
What my experience has shown me that changing of the micron cartridge has little bearing on the life of the resin in a the DI chamber (if a DI chamber is even used).

If the water coming in to the RO or RO/DI system contains a lot of sediment such as rust or large sediment particles, multiple stages or better; a separate sediment system is best added (rather than make the mistake of purchasing multiple stages of filtration after the sediment filter).
Adding a 20 micron pre-filter (purchased at Home Depot, etc.) to your existing RO system can help considerably. Or even better, adding a whole house system such as this one to remove rust, iron, etc.

The above is a more cost efficient solution when one is looking long term at water that is high in TDS and sediment rather than the 6 stage or larger RO/DI systems sold by popular aquarium supply retailers that do not properly address the cause of such issues with stepped down micron filters.

Carbon Filter;
When a good quality catalytic carbon filter block is part of your RO system, it removes many chemicals, toxins, chlorine and YES chloramines assuming a quality catalytic carbon filter block is used in the system.
Unfortunately this aspect is missed in a popular YouTube video promoting more elaborate systems

Reverse Osmosis (RO) Membrane;
I have already gone into great detail what makes a good membrane, so I am going to assume an optimum quality membrane here.
The main purpose of the membrane is removal of mineral salts, which at the proper water pressure and temperature an optimum membrane is VERY efficient at doing.
This same membrane can also remove most nitrates and ammonia. In fact my own tests over the years showed 100% removal of nitrates.
However some claim nitrates can get through, but this again falls back partly to the membrane used, as my results varied with systems such as the Coralife RO system using the FilmTec membrane which is also used in many popular RO/DI systems, did in fact leave some residual nitrates while the TMC V2 system had 0 nitrates.
I should note that these results may also be part of the system design too such as how the system maintains water pressure to the membrane.
It should also be noted that any membrane is only as good as the sediment and carbon pre-filters.

The picture to the right shows how a properly functioning RO membrane rejects sodium ion while allowing water molecules to pass.

De-Ionized (DI) Module/Chamber;
A DI resin chamber traps all charged molecules passing through it, and leaves uncharged (neutral) molecules free to pass through.
Water, for example, passes through it, as would other uncharged inorganic molecules such as oxygen (O2). Ions and minerals salts missed by the carbon & some RO membrane such as sodium (Na+), copper (Cu++ or Cu+), ammonium (NH4+), phosphate (PO4---), silicate (Si(OH)3O-), and acetate (CH3CO2-) generally get caught (assuming the resin is not depleted).

The result is usually pH neutral water unlike the water coming from even the best of RO only systems.
The DI resin chamber can also be a good back up from nitrates, chloramines, and in particular ammonia/ammonium missed by the earlier chambers.

Further References:
Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Aquaria
Removing Chloramines from Water
https://extension.psu.edu/natural-resources/water/drinking-water/water-testing/pollutants/nitrates-in-drinking-water

DISTILLED WATER

Another method to prepare DI Water is to distil the water by boiling then collecting the condensation of this water (AKA distilling).

This can be an economical DIY project or there are commercial water distillers also available.
If you are making a DIY Water Distiller, make sure to use condensation collection coils & other related surfaces that will not add elements back into the water, especially copper coils (which can defeat the purpose of the water distiller).
Some plastics can also add chemicals back into your water, generally stainless steel is accepted to be the best surface to use for condensation collection.
Please click on the picture to enlarge

Use of RO, DI (Distilled) water in Aquariums or Betta Tanks;

Do NOT use 100% RO water unless you are an advanced fish keeper with time on your hands, which includes having GH and KH Test Kits/Strips, as well as some basic knowledge or aptitude of chemistry.

Generally the use of RO or DI water in freshwater aquariums should be restricted to blending with tap or well water so as to "Cut" the water resulting in lower buffers and hardness of aquarium for use with Amazon River, Southeast Asia (such as Bettas), or similar fish.

Generally I start with 25% RO water and work up from this over time (if necessary).
The reason is that RO and similar water is NOT properly mineralized for correct osmoregulation with essential minerals such as calcium nor is there any carbonate buffers to maintain a stable pH which the lack there of would result in a roller coaster pH in the aquarium, often with disastrous results.

That said, for advanced freshwater fish keepers who desire exact Amazon River or SE Asia aquariums (or even Goldfish, Livebearers, etc.);
The use of 100% RO water can achieve phenomenal results providing all trace and major minerals as well as buffers are replaced (buffers are very often missed with users of 100% RO Water).
The reason is that you can reproduce the exact water conditions you desire (assuming again you are familiar with water chemistry), without starting from a point of incorrect minerals or even high nitrogenous organic compounds such as Nitrates (which are often found in tap water or well water).

Everything you need to know about water chemistry:
Aquarium Chemistry

With Marine Reef Aquariums, since most better salt mixes are exacting in their mineral and trace element blends, the use of RO water provides for better results.
More importantly, topping off for evaporation in marine aquariums with tap water (even fish only tanks), results in climbing nitrates, sometimes falling alkaline reserve, incorrect usable calcium levels, and more. So the use of RO or DI water is often a must in marine aquariums for evaporation from my experience.

Correct use of RO Water:

First, if small amounts RO Water (under 25-50%) is used to "Cut" hard/alkaline tap/well water, often only electrolytes with mild buffers already added such as SeaChem Replenish is all that is necessary, not strong buffers or baking soda.

For those considering using RO or DI water in higher amounts, it is important to note that for proper osmotic function trace amounts of several minerals are required.
Many of these supplied simply by water changes and supplements such as Wonder Shells.
For this reason pure RO (Reverse Osmosis) or Distilled water are not good for water changes unless re-mineralized (with products such as Replenish, Wonder Shells, and Buffers) or blended with tap or well water that is possibly too high in many minerals (a very high GH over 500 ppm can slow respiration in some freshwater fish).

To use with RO water:
*Aquarium Mineral Blocks
*SeaChem Replenish; water RO, DI mineral, carbonate replenisher
*SeaChem Aquarium Buffers

For Alkaline/Acid Buffer Ratios for use in Planted, Amazon, or SE Asian Aquariums (softer, low pH aquariums), please see the chart below (based actual ratios, NOT dosages):

*Please note that the above SUGGESTED Ratios are based on 100% pure water and in most instances the water used is not, especially if the Water is from a RO Filter that is not serviced regularly, or is simply a poor quality RO Filter (often one intended for human use, not aquarium use).
The bottom line is to start with these ratios, then adjust the rations until desired parameters are met; then write down these rations and use them in the future.

*As well as noted this is for low pH/softer water aquariums!!
For goldfish, livebearers, or even general community tanks, the use of Malawi Buffer (or Marine Buffer) is advised. Also the use of Acid Buffer as a counter buffer for equilibrium is generally not necessary.

*Do NOT use these ratios to adjust well, tap, blended, or established aquarium water!!
For this you need to add buffers as per aquarium parameters and then find a "Sweet Spot" where your aquarium maintains the desired parameters without a pH roller coaster. This often takes small doses until this is achieved.

*Finally these ratios are based on a starting measurement as per your tank size & suggested amount as per the buffer used (see your product instructions).
In other words if for your size aquarium 1 teaspoon is required of a certain buffer this becomes "1 Part" and then you would use 1/2 teaspoon if ".5 Part" of a counter buffer is also called for.

Adding Blended, RO, or RO/DI back to the Aquarium (Water Changes)

Once your KH, GH, pH, TDS, etc. are where you want these parameters, you water is reading for adding back to the main aquarium. A 32 gallon RubberMaid or similar trash can works for adjusting these parameters prior to addition after a water change (clean first with salt water before using).
If you are looking to have a flow through system, evaporation top off, or similar, I still suggest adjusting in this separate container, then pumping either slowly or quickly from this container.

I personally used two containers, one for simply filling slowly with RO water, then the next one is where I move this water to adjust and/or blend. I move the water to the second container when it is nearly empty, this way I have a constant filling of the first container while the second container is adjusted, then used.
This method still works well if the second barrel is used in a "constant slow water change". I would simply turn off the slow or demand pump while adjusting the water, then back on when complete (which should not take long).

Products that can aid in re-mineralizing RO water (many can be/should be used with other products for complete re-mineralization that includes carbonates)

Basic Electrolyte Replenishing Products (& Links):

*SeaChem Replenish;
Similar to Kent RO Right and API ElectroRight as a primary trace element/electrolyte replenishing product, although this product does add some buffers. Because of the mineral salts contained in this product, it is a good choice in particular for use in softer water aquariums as it does not as readily raise hardness. Replenish has very little affect on pH.
I recommend using this product to add to RO/DI water whether used in full or to "cut" tap/well water. Use the directed amount for the amount of RO or DI water used, not the full gallonage of the aquarium.

*Kent RO Right;
This is for basic trace elements, electrolytes, this product does NOT add most necessary buffers and most major minerals that are especially necessary for general freshwater fish tanks, especially livebearers, African Cichlids, and Goldfish.

*Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Electro Right;
As with Kent RO Right, this is for basic trace elements, electrolytes, this product does not add most necessary buffers and most major minerals that are especially necessary for general freshwater fish tanks, especially livebearers, African Cichlids, and Goldfish.

KH Buffers & GH/Mineral Additive Products (& Links):

*SeaChem Alkaline Buffer and SeaChem Acid Buffer
These to products above are for balanced carbonate/bicarbonates for correct KH & pH.
These are generally used for planted or low pH/soft water aquariums.

*SeaChem Malawi Buffer (or SeaChem Marine Buffer);
This would be the buffer of choice (used as directed) for Livebearers, Goldfish, African Cichlids, and similar higher pH/KH fish. I suggest using 1/2 the recommended amount in your RO water prior to addition to your aquarium then add to this until the desired KH is reached.

*SeaChem Cichlid Salt
Similar to SeaChem Buffer along with added sodium chloride salts

*Wonder Shells (Large) An important compliment mineral replenisher; mixes well with Electro Right, Replenish, RO Right, SeaChem Buffer or the similar but much less easy to use, SeaChem Equalibrium.
The Wonder Shell is an excellent compliment to follow up with Replenish or other initial RO Water Electrolyte additives, so as to constantly maintain essential mineral cations.
I recommend to use 1/4, 1/2, or a normal size Wonder Shell based on the type of aquarium kept & mineral needs. This goes for 100% RO/DI regenerated water, RO/DI cut water or 100% tap/well water.

*SeaChem Equilibrium;
Similar to Replenish, Wonder Shells or AragoMight, but with much more emphasis on Potassium and thus planted aquariums.
In most cases I have found this product NOT the better choice when compared to the use of Replenish along with 1/4 to 1/2 dose of Wonder Shells.
WHY? My extensive use of Equilibrium has not achieved as good of results, even in planted aquariums since it does not maintain the mineral Cations required in a closed system nor is it as useful for RO water use. AS WELL, in its use in certain conditions such as water softener water, it can occassionally percipitate out certain mineral Cations in a way that can cause a sudden fish die off.
I realize that that other professionals have a difference of opinion with me here, but I stand by my results and have always used & sold what I had the best results with, so while I really like SeaChem products and think this too is a good product, I have had better results using Wonder Shells, which is why I currently no longer sell this product.

These products can be used separately or together.
The API ElectroRight, Kent RO Right only adds important trace minerals and no carbonates and is usually inadequate by itself.
I generally would soak a Wonder Shell in RO water and then add Buffers (often both acid and alkaline for correct balance) or Cichlid or Marine Salt to further replenish major and minor elements as well as carbonates (as Wonders Shells have little carbonates).

Drinking Water/ Rain Water;

Also be real careful with water label “Drinking Water” (products such as Aquafina are simply RO water that has some minerals added for flavor for human consumption) as this is usually just RO water with a few minerals added for taste and does NOT have the electrolytes needed by fish. Usually pure spring water does have the proper electrolytes needed by fish.

I have seen many (especially on the internet) recommend rain water be used in place of tap water or similar, the reasoning is similar as with RO water that this water is more pure and therefore more healthy for the fish.
HOWEVER this reasoning is severely and dangerously flawed as rainwater generally has little or NO essential minerals for osmoregulation and as well as buffering capacity at all for maintaining a stable pH (rainwater tends towards the acid side on the pH scale) which will result in a rollercoaster pH in the aquarium.
Please note that the pH scale is logarithmic meaning a 1 point change up or down is equal to a tenfold increase in acidity/alkalinity.
Reference: Aquarium Chemistry; pH

Softened Water; Home/Office Water Softeners Use:

Home (or office) water softeners that employ salt (either sodium chloride or potassium chloride) should NOT be used for supplying aquarium water, as these strip most important minerals all the while increasing sodium to very high and out of balance levels (sodium is only required in trace amounts for most fish). The sodium that is present continues to strip ESSENTIAL calcium and other mineral ions. Running an RO system after a home water softener will not solve the problem of these odium ions.
This can severely affect osmoregulation in fish, especially many fish such as Loaches that normally prefer more soft water.
However these same softwater fish do not prefer soft water containing an unbalanced mineral content that is high in sodium but missing other essential mineral ions, which water from a home softener would be, regardless of whether you add back minerals such as the use of a Wonder shell or not!

The use of soft water from sources that utilize sodium OR EVEN from aquarium conditioners that have sodium bases is that the sodium often drives out the essential mineral cations.
The proof is the ability to maintain a good KH, however an un-naturally low GH often results.
One such test I conducted showed a KH of 200 ppm while the GH was only 20 ppm.

A review of Aquarium Water Conditioners:
Aquarium Conditioners, Information

The result is nearly NON-existent ESSENTIAL calcium, magnesium, and other positive mineral ions.
This can have severe affects on all fish, but is an ESPECIALLY noteworthy problem in Goldfish, Livebearers, and Rift Lake Cichlids!!
AS WELL, the use of Softened Water in certain conditions, such as some instances of combing with SeaChem Equilibrium, use of softened water will percipitate out certain mineral Cations in a way that can cause a sudden fish die off.

Another aspect is that softened water contains enough sodium to actually irritate a fish' epidermis, which in particular is harsh for scaleless or smooth scale fish (such as Loaches, many Catfish, Eels, Elephant Nose, and Ghost Knife Fish).

Although likely obvious to most saltwater aquarium keepers, the use of water softener water should NEVER be used for mixing saltwater or topping off a marine aquarium for evaporation.

Here is how a home or office water softener works:
When the resin becomes saturated with calcium and magnesium, it is regenerated by passing an NaCl or KCl brine solution through the resin. The high concentration of sodium ions in the brine causes the reaction to be reversed with sodium (or potassium if KCl is used) replacing the calcium and magnesium ions which are then discharged into the waste water.

This sodium or potassium that is used to drive out mineral Cations of calcium and magnesium remain in the water, even if in small amounts. These sodium ions are enough to continue to drive out a considerable amount of essential mineral Cations so that simply adding these back via SeaChem/AAP Replenish, AAP Wonder Shells, etc. results in precipitation of these essential electrolytes.
Simple tests with an AAP Wonder Shell bear this out as the Wonder shells dissolves in a pile of dust, but never actually changes the water chemistry!

Here is the equation/formula:

Reference: https://www.reskem.com/western-region/

Necessary Minerals

From Original Article:
Do Fish Drink; Osmoregulation in Fish

Here are a few necessary TRACE elements/minerals (electrolytes) and their function.

Calcium (Actually needed in more than trace amounts): Calcium helps to transport ions (electrically charged particles) across the membrane, is essential for muscle contraction, calcium assists in maintaining all cells and connective tissues in the body, and much more.
Please read for more about Calcium:
Aquarium Chemistry; Calcium
Sodium (Actually needed in more than trace amounts which is why water from home water softeners should NOT be used): Regulates extra-cellular electrolyte, essential for the transport of nutrients across the cell membranes.
Potassium: Regulates intracellular osmotic pressure, cell membrane potential, and salt excretion.
Phosphorus: Energy metabolism.
Molybdenum: Important for proper skeletal growth (very important in reef aquariums for hard coral growth).
Manganese: Aids enzymes involved in metabolism, growth and maintenance of bone and cartilage.
Iron: Oxygen transport in blood and muscle tissue.
Magnesium: As stated previously, magnesium plays a role in the activity of more than 325 enzymes and aids in the proper assimilation of Calcium.
Sulfates: Also as stated above, improve nutrient absorption and toxin elimination.
Chromium: Important for proper utilization of sugars.
Cobalt: Necessary for Folic Acid synthesis.
Copper (very trace amounts): Co-enzyme for energy metabolism, aids in the protection of the myelin sheath around the nerves, important for iron absorption and utilization.

For a related post that deals with trace elements:
“Plaster in Paris in Aquariums and Ponds”

It is important to have a proper Redox Potential which describes the ability for the loss of an electron by a molecule, atom or ion to the gain of an electron by another molecule, atom or ion.
Without this reducing Redox Potential many minerals cannot be absorbed and properly assimilated. So it is very important to keep a “positively charged” aquarium or a Balanced Redox Potential via proper dissolved oxygen levels, calcium and other electrolytes, proper cleaning procedures and water changes (UV Sterilization can help too).

For more information about the Redox Potential, please see this article:
*The Redox Potential in Aquariums (& Ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health (AVOID scam articles on the subject of Aquarium Redox such as by Aquariumscience that are only attack pieces and have no basis in practical experience)

For further reading on this subject, here are a few articles I recommend:

This other Aquarium Answers article is an excellent compliment:
Tap water for my Aquarium or Pond? From Chlorine and Chloramines to Phosphates & TDS

For more aquarium information, please visit this site:
* “AQUARIUM AND POND INFORMATION”

*Sodium Ions: http://www.elmhurst.edu/~chm/vchembook/142Aposion.html

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium Information and Resources (Pond too)

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany
There is simply NO BETTER Reef Sea Salt (marine fish too)

*UV Sterilization, Sterilizer Use
The above article is the most in depth and constantly researched/updated article to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!

TMC Total Dissolved Solids Monitor

An excellent stand alone product for testing your TDS from Tap, well, or even aquarium water.
A must have for any advanced aquarium keeper.

*Ich; Lifecycle, Identification, Treatment, Prevention

AAP AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up!
Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAT MORE!

*Pond Care Information

*Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic & Aquarium Forum Board

*FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets contains articles and commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

Lighting Theory of a Planted Aquarium- RQE/PFY- PAR, PAS, & PUR

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Thu, 17 Sep 2015 22:02:00 +0000

Updated/Revised: 9/19/15

Planted Aquarium Lighting- Relative Quantum Efficiency vs. Photosynthetic Action Spectrum

What light quality energy is "useable" for plant photosynthesis or what's the Photosynthesically Usable Radiation for planted and coral aquariums?

This topic has long been discussed in Aquatic Sciences for about the last 30 years. The idea of what light might be useful started with studies published in Plant and Aquatic Science journals, which described the Absorption Spectrum(1) of light used for Photosynthesis. The spectrum mostly in questions for Photosynthesis, was known the known Action Spectrum of both Chlorophyll a and b, as Chlorophyll is the most abundant plant biomolecule, which drive the process of converting light energy into chemical energy for a plant. Chlorophyll is critical for plants to be able to capture light energy for the energy conversion process.

Calculation of the absorbed Chlorophyll specifically has been known as PUR.

[Reference 1]- Chlorophyll a Fluorescence in Aquatic Sciences: Methods and Applications
[Reference 2]- Photosynthetically Active Radiation/Absorption Spectrum

(1). Absorption Spectrum- The spectrum of electromagnetic radiation that has passed through a medium that absorbed radiation of certain wavelengths. The spectrum used to measure absorption where various wavelengths of light represent different colours of light absorption spectrum.
[Reference 3]- Biology Dictionary

This can "differ" plant to plant as to what is specifically needed, but as of today's science, we have a pretty solid understanding of what makes Photosynthesis work for plants.

Photosynthesis is what makes a plant grow mainly through the chemical process of Chlorophyll. While for the longest time the light in the Action Spectrum of Chlorophyll a and b (blue and red) were thought as the only "useable" energy plants needed for photosynthesis, recent research has shown if green light is present, it will be used and converted into energy in the photosynthesis of Chlorophyll a/b.

For this reason, green light has also been considered as "useful" energy. This is how some graphs showing an Absorption Spectrum, does show some amounts of green being absorbed. (See above graph with the PAS graph of Chlorophyll A&B/Carotenoids, along with the Absorption Spectrum).

We can also actually see how much green is is being utilized in the RQE Mcree 1972 graph, which is about around 70%. Meaning if green is present, most will be used and only about 30% will be reflected. This when when we are only talking about a green plant. This however does not prove totally efficiency based on both recent and older real world studies, but it certainly is a good starting point.

[Reference 4]-Plant Physiology- Light

When considering green as a "useful" energy of green plant photosynthesis, the most common term describing this useful energy is different than the most "useful" energy captured for Chlorophyll. When maximum amount of photosynthesis per incident unit of energy is considered, the term used is Yield Photon Flux.

Here is how it's described in some current research describes this process:
"Photosynthesis is fundamentally driven by photon flux rather than energy flux, but not all absorbed photons yield equal amounts of photosynthesis. Thus, two measures of photosynthetically active radiation have emerged: photosynthetic photon flux (PPF), which values all photons from 400 to 700 nm equally, and yield photon flux (YPF), which weights photons in the range from 360 to 760 nm according to plant photosynthetic response."

This is when considering the Mcree graph and saying about 650nm of light equals one unit of co2 assimilation and 450nm will be about .7 of co2 assimilation. See reference for more of what thought of be active/inactive & useful/nonuseful energy.
[Reference 5]-Accuracy of Quantum Sensors Measuring Yield Photon Flux and Photosynthetic Photon Flux

[Reference 6]-Photosynthetically Active Radiation/Absorption Spectrum

Section Summary

The PAS graph shows the two spectrums absorbed for the plant growing process of Chlorophyll a & b. The RQE/YPF graph shows the total light used through the entire Photosynthesis process, as oppose to the light, which starts the action of Photosynthesis.

Blue and Red light is responsible for the action of Photosynthesis. Greens and yellows are not used in this process as seen in the PAS graph.

Green and yellows are shown in RQE/PFY Mcree graph to be used in the whole process of Photosynthesis.

People will think with RQE/PFY, if green or yellow light are the only color light available to the plant, Photosynthesis cannot take place as these colors do not provide any photosynthesis action. In fact, this light slow Photosynthesis if provided in higher amounts.
[As depicted in the first picture of this article]

We do know now, that even if a plant is grown under all green light, it will grow, it will just use have less of a grow rate. [Reference 7]- Influence of Green, Red and Blue Light Emitting Diodes

We also know different amounts of Blue, Green , and Red can affect different growth rates and mass of the plant (as in weight or more leaves).
[Reference 8]- https://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/green_light_is_it_important_for_plant_growth

This is how blue and red light from the PAS have been considered "Photosynthesically Usable Radiation" in the past aquatic sciences and much talk about this subject involved increasing or decreasing the amount of blues and reds to see how plant growth is effected. Current research will now also consider how much green light is actually useful to improve growth or harm growth.

---
Affecting Usable Radiation
Intensity/Penetration

Energy waves excite photons and the amplitude of a wave is generally a measure of how energized the photons can be carries. In the same way, the displacement of a bow string, determines the amount of energy that propels the arrow. Energy is a positive quantity, so the amplitude is a positive number.

This matter has to be considered when thinking about what most useful for a water application such as an aquarium and also what is considered useful for the application such as a reef tank or planted tank. When speaking about light in air, the wavelength frequency does not matter as much as we can use a red spectrum having the highest usefulness of photosynthesis, with a less intense frequency. In applications where light needs to provide a more useful amount of energy to deeper water, blue light is considered "more useful", because of it's frequency intensity.

The blue light is required, because it has a higher frequency of photons (not higher quatity though), which will reach deeper in the aquarium for the plants or corals (zooxanthellae) to use for photosynthesis. Corals are known to require more energy to grow, so blues are "useful"/"Important", the right "quality spectrum", with the needed amount of energy for corals. Zooxanthellaes in corals have also shown to be adapted to blue light and all photosynthetic creatures are able to adapt the light being provided to them.

Affects of intensity can also have an affect on useful light, as in depth, as in light delivery such as a lens, spread, dissolved solids, salts, movement, or blockage (clouds or shade).

In most aquatic application, blue light has been best for useful light for both corals and plants due to the frequency of the photon. Better is the combination of blue with red, and now with current science, green is useful because since its frequency can also be used under water, albeit at a lower rate. These three colors together make up a "white" light.

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Summary

Blue light has the most penetrating power of all the light, because it's more energized excited (dense wavelength) for more protons to be delivered, therefore it will provide more useful growing when water is considered. Red is the first color to filter out. Blue light does helps keep plants fuller with more leaves. Higher blue concentrated energy is needed for corals. To much blue can stunt growth.

Green does help green plants look brighter as it does have the highest value for how much is reflected back (30%) according to the RQE Mcree graph. It's also the color our eyes see best (CRI), so lamps with more greens in their spectrum will appear brighter. Amounts of green in white light has shown to help with thicker growth (more mass). Usually more is not required, unless it's for extra visual boost.

Red has shown to be very most for Photosynthesis in air. This color does have to be balanced for appearance reasons. Reds also help red plants look redder, but is not what causes the plant to actually be red. The boost in color is what is being reflected to the eye.

This information has not been considered for the photosynthesis of red plants and this information still needs to be researched.

Some green plants can turn red, which is almost like a Sunblock as they have to adapt to intense energy.

A light photon is a photon. There is no blue photons, green, or red photons. Blue deliveries more photos in their wave as it's more energetic.

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Kelvin Spectrum

This is the light, which is more of a visual rating, based on the color a black radiator being heat up to a certain temperature. This is like the Sun as it heats up and is a certain color. This is not a measurement of how useful of light will be, but what color the light will be.

The Sun will be 6500K at high noon hour.

White lights, weather it's a cooler white or a warm white, will have more or less blue, green, and red. Warmer whites such as 3000K will be closer to the red side of the spectrum with much more reds, yellows and greens. While this may have more reds, there is less intense blues for aquarium application.

Spectrum of a 3000K Warm White Light

Cooler or natural Whites closer to 6500K + will be closer to the blue side of the lighting spectrum, with less greens and yellows based on design. 6500K has been described to be the best growing spectrum watt per watt of energy used to create the light, as it has the best balance of useful energy.
It is worthy of note that the licensed Cree XB 6500 emitter used in the AquaGro GroBeam 1500 & 600 has a spectrum that very closely mimics the RQE Mcree graph without the need for added emitters.

Product Resource: AquaGro GroBeam 1500 & 600

Spectrum of a true 6500K Natural White LED

A spectrum higher than 6500K (7000-10000) will be lacking in the required reds, so the addition of a red light may be used if considering photosynthesis, but not necessary.

Higher rated blue light such as 10,000K will be used for deeper applications above 20-24 inches, as it penetrates best.

How much greens and yellows are in a Natural White 6500K will vary based manufacture. These two colors in this lighting is more than enough to help feed the photosynthetic process in plants. Added greens and yellow/orange can be added energy for a visual appeal reason. They do add growing power as well.

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Conclusion
How this conversion can gets so debatable and how it has been a popular topic in the aquarium hobby, is because of the effort of trying to define what is "useful" for an aquatic plant. Even the most current definitions found from people who are well known in this area are not concise as to what is "useful/needed". Statements such as this are made: "PAR defines the type of light which is needed to support photosynthesis in plant life".
And "PAR, ... solar radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis, make this topic not clear"..."plants do NOT however use the green light which is simply reflected - which is why we see plants as green."

Today's train of thought is simply to provide all the light in the PAR range, which is why people say a "full spectrum light is needed". What's important to try and do, is balance how much blue, red, orange, and how much green, yellow they want for appearance and just make sure there's enough growing power of blue or red in particular based on known studies and real world applications.

If lighting fixtures are using color light sources, one should ask for what reason and try to understand what color (blue, white, red) is being used for the actual action of photosynthesis. While appearance is important, what can happen is people overly using color heavy in everything but blue or red, then loose growing power for the plant. Plants will have great coloration, but lack in any growth rate.

No aquarium lighting fixture will strictly use highest "energy" lights, since what is being lighted is an aquarium and visual pleasure does come into play. There has to be a balance of growing energy and coloration, and energy used to create the light needs to be considered. This idea of "usefulness" has clearly been seen in our florescence technology, where we went from T-12 to T-5 to T-2 and used less watt energy to create more intense growing light.

It's often harder to apply this "usefulness", now that most aquarium lighting has shifted to LED. There are many variations in emitter bins, combinations of bins, and how the fixture is design, which detract "usefulness".
However while a photon is a photon, they do differ in frequency and we do know that different frequencies have different penetrating abilities in water, plant & algae tissue, even human tissue. This still translates into certain wave lengths being more "useful", there simply is not a huge gap.
This also does not change the input side of energy; the joules or watts as much can wasted as heat long before it becomes a photon of light due to poor drivers that daisy chain emitters, as well as the use of linear or analog reduction (aka current reduction) instead of the more efficient PWM.

So, how much blue, green, orange, and red energy is needed for a planted aquarium? This is very subjective and will need another article to go over the most popular combinations of color along with other factors, which can affect usefulness and what is "best".

If we can strictly apply useful energy, what is create is the best possible growing spectrum at the least amount of energy used. Newer research has proven that we can't just look at input energy, but also the quantity of photons and energy these photons can supply based on the frequency of these photons.

As for frequency of photons we do know based on studies already cited earlier that green light can and will grow plant life, just less efficiently. In fact as much as 80% less efficient than blue light based on one US government study.
The picture to the left demonstrates another study from about 2007 where the growth rate is quite different between two different 6500K light sources. Even after one subtract the the considerable amount of energy waster as heat by the Metal Halide light, we can see there is still a higher amount of lumens/photons from the MH light.
This leaves us to figure the difference in photon frequency/energy levels is what is making the difference in growth, possibly more blue energy, but since we do not have a spectrogram/spectrograph we can only speculate as to what spectrum is making the difference. But what we do not need to speculate on is there still is clear difference in "quality of light".

[Reference 9]- Real World Application of RQE, PAR. PUR, PAS, & Photons

Further Reading:

From this website
PUR/PAS vs PAR in Aquarium Reef/Planted Lighting; LED Wavelengths

Aquarium Lighting; Guide to Complete Facts & Information

St Mary’s Marine Biology LED Experiments

By Devon Trigg with editing by Carl Strohmeyer
Copyright 2019

Bio Load in Aquarium or Pond

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 00:54:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 3/20/19

The "Bio-Load" is essentially the amount of life existing in an aquarium, pond, etc. and its affect upon the nitrogen process that places demand upon the aquarium's filter system. This includes mechanical, chemical, and especially biological filtration.
Factors that affect this include waste, nutrients, dissolved organic particulates/compounds (DOC), bacteria, plankton, and more.
This applies to both Salt and Freshwater as well as ponds.
As well the "Bio Load" affects the bio system not associated with filters, which includes plants and nitrification/de-nitrification outside of the filters.

A lesser known aspect of the aquarium (or pond) bio load is its affect on the Aquarium Redox Balance, yet these two have major interconnections.
An example would be a Redox that moves up in down with large changes in ORP likely indicates an aquarium with too high a bio-load, often adding oxidative stress to the inhabitants thus shortening their lifespan and lowering disease resistance.
Further Reference: Aquarium Redox Reduction, Oxidation, Balance

This "bio-load" is made up of uneaten food, decomposing inhabitants, accumulated organics and waste produced by livestock, foods and plant matter in the aquarium tank/system.
Often this bio load goes unseen decomposing in filters, especially canister and large wet/dry sumps.
As well, this hidden bio-load may be under rocks and other decorations, especially live rock reefs in marine aquariums.

The picture to the left shows trapped decomposition from uneaten food and other organics. This adds to the bio load and can also affect the Redox Balance requiring abnormally high oxidation levels. (please click on the picture to enlarge for a better view)

What is also noteworthy, while additional filtration will help handle a higher bio-load in an aquarium or pond, it is a finite number.
What I mean is, one cannot have a 60 gallon aquarium with say a Fluidized Sand Bed Filter/Reactor and a quality Sponge Filter, both of which are excellent bio filters (if not the best depending upon whether you purchased patented AAP Hydro Sponge or cheap Chinese knock off) and then say if I double these filters I can double the amount of fish so long as I keep up with dissolved oxygen levels in the aquarium!!
It simply does NOT work this way, as while good filtration and filter redundancy is definitely a plus, there is a point where too high of a bio load is too high a bio load!

This analogy goes for marine reef aquariums as well and in fact I have both observed and had dealt with customers with Marine Reef Aquariums whereby they thought their double Protein Skimmers and copious amounts of live rock would allow them to keep a very crowded reef tank. In the end, even the smallest changes would bring sudden changes in Redox or nitrate levels or even ammonia levels!

Product Resources:
*Patented High Bio Capacity Aquarium Sponge Filters, from AAP
*High Bio Capacity Aquarium Fluidized Sand Bed Filters/Reactors

Water changes is probably the best way to TEMPORARILY deal with a bio load that is clearly past its capacity.
This water change can be a flow through method where-by clean, mineralized, de-chlorinated water is constantly being slowly changed out.
Further Reference: Aquarium Cleaning; Methods

The picture to the right is a feeder tank at a pet store. This is an example of an aquarium that is clearly over stock and past its bio-load capacity.

However before I seem to condemn this practice, as long as these criteria are met this can be done for the SHORT term:

It is temporary (meaning fish are sold out in a matter of a few days),
The fish are well fed prior to entering this tank, but are fed little for the few days within this temporary environment
The water is changed out once or twice per day (the flow through method is best for this),
FULL positive ion mineralization is provided
Reference: Aquarium Chemistry; Depletion of Mineral Ions
Heavy aeration,
UV Sterilization is utilized
Further Reference: Aquarium UV Sterilization

These above methods will maintain a balanced Redox, meaning both oxidation and reduction, which results in the fish being healthy and less risk of disease introduction when moved or more likely fed to other fish.

I should point out that part of my reason for even posting and explaining this picture of "Feeder Fish" is simply to show how extreme we can get in bio load and where one should NEVER be with the maintenance of our PET fish.

As well this is meant to demonstrate what we can do if only temporary to deal with a high bio load.
And finally to point out that many fish/pet stores do NOT follow many or even any of the practices I note here to deal with this hopefully temporary extreme bio load condition.

Another aspect of aquarium bio load is plants.
Plants certainly make for a more natural freshwater aquarium and in many ways are a better way to control many aspect of the nitrogen level since plants due not produce the nitric acid that nitrifying bacteria produce. Especially during daylight hours of photosynthesis plant increase oxygen.

However plants themselves can die and leave decomposing debris that adds to the waste aspect of an aquariums bio load.
As well during night when photosyntheis ceases, the plants will compete with fish for oxygen, so this is a consideration with a planted aquarium and its bio load.
With ponds, this becomes even a bigger issue as many outside plants that provide no benefit other than maybe shade can drop copious amounts of debris into a pond thus adding to decomposition.

An aquarium keeper should attempt to trim off as many dying or old plant leaves, and remove dead plant material from the bottom of an aquarium or pond.
If your tank has an algae problem, in particular a free floating algae problem, or if algae has been scraped off rocks, etc. into the water column, it is advisable to perform a water change and change/clean at least some filter media after such a scraping or use of a new UV Sterilizer to clear such an aquarium.

Overall, as with a filter, a well maintained heavily planted aquarium can increase the bio load capacity of an aquarium, but similar to additional filtrations, this is not a large increase.
This also applies to a Marine Reef Aquarium Refugium, whereby these definitely aid in nitrate control (& generally are an asset to any marine aquarium), but these also can add to bio load in other ways, especially if poorly maintained.

A few water parameters to watch as an indicator of a "too high" bio load are:

Nitrates that are difficult to control.
This of course is rather subjective since methods used to control nitrates themselves have a tendency to vary from aquarium to aquarium.
As a generalization, if your tank is employing many of the methods found in this article below, yet nitrate numbers under 15 ppm are still often evasive, you likely have a bio load problem.

Reference: Controlling Aquarium Nitrates
It is noteworthy that one of the methods listed in this above referenced article of controlling nitrates IS LOWERING Bio-Load

Redox Balance.
Bio load has both direct and indirect affects on the Aquarium Redox or ORP.
The direct effect is that this bio load will require more of the oxidation side of the Redox equation.

What I would call an indirect affect is that while your aquarium might be stable with the ORP (Redox), a sudden change to this equation could add the stimulus to change this balance since it was already hanging by a thread (so to speak) as per a high bio load.
This would be especially common with an advanced Reef aquarium where abundant methods of nitrate reductions are keeping the nitrates in check, yet masking a very high bio load.
Adding too much Calcium Hydroxide or another sudden change in mineral ions could be this stimulus.
Further Reference: Aquarium Chemistry, Kalkwasser, Calcium Hydroxide

The addition of a UV Sterilizer could also affect this balance too.
While this might seem to fly in the face of recommendations of using a UV Sterilizer, this does not mean you should permanently cease the use of this device.
What UV-C Sterilization operating at level 1 or level 2 does, is the UVC energy reacts within the Sterilizer chamber to neutralize many oxidizers similar to how ozone and UVC react in the upper atmosphere.
The result is improved immunity for your fish since excess oxidizers in the water column can be detrimental to your fish' long term health.
So my point is lower your Bio Load before you trash your UV Sterilizer.

Please See: Aquarium Redox; possible Problems
Here is a quote from this article: "the addition of a UV Sterilizer can play an important role for a balanced aquatic Redox Potential as newer studies have proven that UV Sterilization increases immunity by adding electrons and balancing the essential electromagnetism of the water"

Product Resource: Level 1 & 2 Aquarium UV Sterilizers

The clarity or color of the water can occasionally be an indicator.
Assuming peat, certain driftwood, Indian Almond leaves are not being used (in a freshwater aquarium), your aquarium should only be slightly yellow or slightly green, but otherwise easy to see through.
Otherwise this too might be an indicator of a "too high" bio-load.

High Algae growth MAY be an indicator, more so if the algae is free floating assuming the lighting is correct.
Another occasional indicator is a sudden change in ORP due to the die off of algae from the use of a UV Sterilizer, this often will color the water in both marine and freshwater aquariums.
While this may indicate a high bio load, this problem may self correct with a simple change of water and cleaning of filters.

pH Stability; often an unstable pH, whether salt or freshwater is an indicator of too high a bio load. Often this shows with with an unstable KH/Alkalinity where-by higher than would be normal for a tank of a certain size amounts of alkaline buffers are require to maintain a stable pH and constant KH/Alkalinity

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS); A TDS that jumps quickly after water changes without other outside influences can indicated a high bio load.

Finally, here is a ranking of filters that have from highest to lower in bio load capacity.
Please note that while this is an objective list based on ounce per ounce of bio capacity, it does NOT take into account different sizes of these filters or in the case of canister filters or wet/dry sump filters the type of filter media used (although I do break this up as best as possible).

Fluidized Sand Bed Filter/Reactor; Pound per pound there is NO higher bio capacity filter available. When used with specific medias such as Bio Plastics, it is also an excellent nitrate remover.

Wet/Dry Sump Filter; set up with SeaChem Matrix, live rock or volcanic rock along with sponges and refugium or nitrate removing mud filter

Canister Filter; set up with SeaChem Matrix, live rock or volcanic rock along with SeaChem Purigen or related products.

Patented AAP Hydro Sponge Filters; excellent nitrifying filters ounce per ounce (actually only exceeded by FSB Filters for this aspect of bio capacity), but little de-nitrification ability.
The Chinese sponge filter knock offs have as little as 1/5 the capacity!!

Wet/Dry Sump Filter; standard set up with bio balls. Good to excellent nitrifying bio capacity, but little de-nitrification ability.

Canister Filter; with standard configuration. Good to excellent nitrifying bio capacity, but little de-nitrification ability.

HOB Filters; there are so many brands here with very different variables that rating these alone could take its own review which is beyond the scope of this article.
Suffice to say the Aqua Clear is one of the best, while the many brands sold at discounters with only a cartridge are among the worst.

Common or DIY Sponge Filters; fair to good nitrifying filters ounce per ounce (actually only exceeded by FSB Filters for this aspect of bio capacity), but little de-nitrification ability.
The difference in these sponge filters is much less pore to contain nitrifying bacteria and also a tendency to clog much more quickly than patented Hydro Sponge Filters (as per my tests in the 1990s).
Simple rinsings will show the capacity or the patented AAP Hydro Sponge Filters to be as much as 5 times!!

Corner Filters; generally little bio capacity

Here is an excellent article that addresses in much more depth the advantages of the above mentioned filters (especially the differences in HOB filters):
Aquarium Filtration; Filter Review

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization

Algone Water Clarifier & Nitrate Remover
An awesome USA made product; Nitrate fixating microorganisms incorporate excess nitrogen into the cellular mass, while bioactive enzymes assimilate nitrogen from the water column

EcoSense ORP 15 Redox Meter
ORP Range -1200 to +1200 mV
Great for testing Redox before and after water changes, use of water conditioners, after addition of UV Sterilizer, etc.

*Aquarium Redox Balance

Aquarium Chemistry

Wonder Shells, Regular & Medicated
Unique Version sold ONLY at American Aquarium Products.
Excellent for disease prevention!!!

*Aquarium Nitrate Control

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Aquarium Lighting

Saltwater Aquarium Care

Pond Care

TB in Fish, Mycobacterium Tuberculosis; Bettas & more

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 00:36:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 9-25-19

Fish Tuberculosis is generally caused by Mycobacterium marinum, a bacterium closely related to the human TB (Tuberculosis) bacteria, Mycobacterium tuberculosis, although incidents of Mycobacterium triplex have also been reported with Bettas.

Despite some internet claims, based on my many years of "house calls" and other professional aquarium maintenance work has shown Fish "TB" to be relatively uncommon with the exception of cases where the bacteria has been passed around and the fish' immune system has been compromised, this is especially the case with recently confirmed Mycobacterium triplex.
This seems to be more common among breeding and showing circles/clubs where water equipment cross contamination is common.
The above said, be careful about assuming your fish have Fish TB, unless all symptoms are present and treatment for more likely infections have failed.

However Bettas and Gouramis for reasons not 100% known seem to be more susceptible or have been placed in conditions where tuberculosis is more likely to overcome the fish' immune response.
Please read the "PREVENTION" section for more about TB in Bettas in particular

Treatment for Mycobacterium tuberculosis is often long and not always successful, as well low fish immunity due to poor aquarium parameters (including Redox Balance), along with fish age or even simple stress from tank mates can add to treatment difficulties or make treatment impossible (especially since Fish TB is difficult to treat anyway)

ADVERTISEMENT

A myth I have seen written in a few "circles" (for some reason I have found this myth especially common on certain Betta Forums), is that Fish TB can also cause full blown human TB which is simply not true (only mild localized infections in healthy adults humans).
However it is still best to avoid fish to human transmission, especially if your immune system is compromised in any way.
Generally when the Mycobacterium marinum bacteria infects humans it is a dermatological issue as the bacterium usually enter the skin via small abrasions or cuts when you are performing aquarium maintenance.
The symptoms in humans are usually restricted to skin and soft tissue destruction in most instances of Mycobacterium marinum infection via small purple lesions that can gradually grow. It is noteworthy that in my decades of professional aquarium maintenance with literally 1000s of aquariums, I have only noted a couple of proven fish to human TB transmissions, so be careful of alarmist web sites.

Another myth about Fish TB, especially since it seems to have become the aquarium fish disease "De Jour" (disease of the day), is its transmission.
Based on emails, phone calls and discussions with my maintenance friends, you would think every fish that is sick now suddenly has this disease.
While it certainly seems to be more common and virulent as per confirmed cases, it is NOT commonly present in an aquarium (unlike Aeromonas, Columnaris, or Pseudomonas bacterium).

So in the case of fish that have been living in an aquarium for months and often years without any outside exposure to other fish, the facts are it is impossible for the fish to suddenly come down with a Mycobacterium infection!
Usually this false diagnosis with no history of possible exposure is simply the result of a simply weak or old fish showing symptoms that are often common to Fish Mycobacterium (TB).
What is also very noteworthy with a fish that may be showing symptoms common to Mycobacterium, if the fish dies within days of the first symptoms, it is VERY LIKELY that your fish did NOT have Mycobacterium as generally Mycobacterium kills slowly!!

Even with potential exposure, in my experience with confirmed cases of Mycobacterium, transmission usually ONLY happens in aquariums with old, genetically weak, injured, or with poor tank water parameters (which includes a poor aquarium Redox Balance).
In other words, under normal conditions this is not a highly contagious fish disease!

Then as per poor water conditions, genetically weak, poorly fed, etc. fish, it is more likely the fish have another bacterial infection and correcting these conditions is job one. Most common with Bettas in particular is lack of mineral Cations resulting in poor osmoregulation and increased oxidative stress (poor Redox balance)

Identification:

If staining for identification, Mycobacteria stain bright pink against a blue background (as these bacterium are acid fast).

However, most aquarium fish keepers do not have the ability to grow cultures or make slides; so the symptoms of Fish TB are usually wasting away, lesions on the fish' body, loss of scales and/or coloration, and especially skeletal deformities such as curved spines.

The Betta fish in the picture above (please click to enlarge) displays classic symptoms of Fish TB in finage, skeletal deformity, and wasting to the point light can slightly penetrate her abdomen as seen in the light spot.
From Testing for "Fish TB"; AquariaCentral

The fish to the right is a largemouth bass showing clinical signs consistent with mycobacteriosis; note the ragged fins, sores, and general deterioration of the fish, differing from more common fish diseases such as Aeromonas and Columanaris.

Mycobacterium triplex can only be identified by 16S rDNA sequencing, so positive identification is difficult.

Treatment:

As with ANY fish disease, always start with getting your aquarium water parameters in order (as well as feeding), which in most my client house/office calls over the years with TB or copycat fish diseases this was a major issue.
Reference this article for more in depth help here:
A Healthy Aquarium, Fish Disease Prevention

Mycobacterium marinum
Time of Treatment is VERY long and is generally administered for at least three months. Cure rate is well under 50%, but also do not believe those who state it cannot be cured as I have many times.
A hospital tank treatment is advised for fish TB since this generally is a very long treatment regimen and a three month treatment of ANY antibiotic can result in serious damage to your aquarium bio filter.

The three most proven antibiotic methods, which can and should be used in a combination of two of these drugs along with the other described alternative treatments:
*Kanamycin (Kanaplex)
*Neomycin
*Isoniazid (from Aquarium Medications Part 2)

Sometimes a Sulfamethazine/Trimethoprim Combination can be effective too.
Resource:
*Sulfamethazine/Trimethoprim Combination (sometimes effective)

Often a "cocktail" of these medications along with a fish bath (mentioned next) is needed for any hope of success, which can be very harsh on the aquarium environment. So unless the infection is systemic, a hospital tank might be best (adding a TRUE level one capable UV Sterilizer to your main tank is suggested to check spread, see later in the prevention section of this article.

A fifth consideration, albeit less field tested (it does show lab results though) is Usnea, which from my experience should only be administered in a "Fish Bath" form for 30 minutes. Methylene Blue should also be used in this bath, but no other antibiotics should be used in this bath with Usena.
These baths can be rotated; meaning one bath with Usena and Methylene Blue and the next bath with MB along with one or two of the other antibiotics, then back to the Usnea

Usnea is best as a used as a bath ALONG with an in tank treatment with one of the first three noted medications (or better hospital tank).
Further Information: Organic Fish Treatments; Usnea

A sixth consideration is Allicin, the active ingredient in RAW Garlic. Mycobacterium marinum) has been demonstrated to be effectively treated with Allicin, at least in vitro.
SeaChem Garlic Guard can be used in a fish food slurry preparation and mixed with both Neomycin and Kanamycin for improving the potential effectiveness of tuberculosis treatment.
See: Fish Nutrition; Garlic

Recommended Product Resource:
Garlic Guard; for Fish TB, Appetite Enhancer

A final consideration that might be helpful, in particular if the diagnosis is INCORRECT (which is common), is the use of Medicated Wonder Shells. These address many aspects of fish health, including problems that are simply symptoms of fish old age and not any disease in particular.
While a Medicated Wonder Shell is not a strong treatment for any particular disease, these are helpful as both follow up treatments and mild treatments that also address essential water parameters that might be out of balance (such as Redox).

Recommended Product Resource:
Medicated Wonder Shells

Back to Fish Baths; regardless of the medication or combination of medications used in tank, I suggest a Fish Bath with one of the first four before mentioned treatments (not garlic) at least once per day during this time period.
In fact in some cases the fish baths were all that was needed for success assuming these were carried out regularly.

Now for the bad news, from experience and others, once the fish became emaciated I had little to no success saving them.

Please Read/Reverence these Articles:
*Aquarium Medications; How Medications Work, and Which Ones to Use and Not to Use
*Fish Baths, How to Perform

Treatment of Mycobacterium triplex (not M. marinum) in human studies has shown it to be nearly impossible with only reduction of symptoms, not eradication of the bacterium.
These treatments used levofloxacin, ethambutol, and clarithromycin; all of which NOT available in fish medications.
You best bet with this rare strain (assuming your fish even has it), is to sadly euthanize and sterilize EVERYTHING, then start over.

How NOT to Treat:

The use of salt either in baths or in the aquarium will have absolutely no affect on Mycobacterium tuberculosis since this bacterium thrives equally well in salt or freshwater.
Temperature increases or decreases have little effect and in fact a temperature increase over 30°C. (as with Columnaris) often worsens a Mycobacterium tuberculosis infection.
Temperature decreases has shown some anecdotal slowing of the progression of Mycobacterium tuberculosis, but no cure.

Prevention:

There is not a 100% proven way to prevent Aquarium Fish Tuberculosis (as with most pathogens), however based on my own observations going back to 1977 (working at a Pet Store Fish department and then my aquarium maintenance company), I definitely noticed patterns.
Emails from customers and questions I see asked in forums and elsewhere have added to this same pattern.

Here are a few known factors:

High organic loads, water quality characteristics common in intensive systems, and very crowded populations can all exacerbate the infection.

Feeding feeder fish, fish remains, fresh worms and similar. Better if fish TB has been a problem a truly top notch prepared fish food such as Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom.

One pattern is what I noted earlier and that is Bettas and Gouramis have a higher incidence of both suspected and proven cases of Mycobacterium marinum Tuberculosis infections.
I also noted that certain vendors (wholesale suppliers) would have a higher incidence of TB infected fish, so avoiding the purchase of fish from places that you have suspected TB on numerous occasions may also be helpful; this said, do NOT write off a retailer or vendor based on 1 or 2 suspicions of Fish TB, as it may have been another disease pathogen, as well frankly no vendor/retailer is perfect!.

Also be careful with Betta shows or similar, as I believe that this is both a major stressor AND infection point.

As for procedure you can do to prevent Fish TB infections; there are many.
The most obvious is as stress free an aquatic environment as possible since stress due to many factors seems to be a major factor based on my work and research.
This includes stress from water conditions and tank mates.
Changing water regularly, maintaining a stable pH & KH, near 0 ammonia (NH3) and nitrites, a balanced Redox and ESSENTIAL aquarium positive mineral ions.

Further References:
*Aquarium Cleaning
*Aquarium Chemistry; In Depth, from Beginner to Advanced
*Aquarium Redox for Fish Immunity, Health

The use of Aquarium UV Sterilization with a correctly applied UV Sterilizer performing at Level 1 Sterilization (this will NOT and CANNOT be achieved with the many low end UV Clarifiers such as the Green Killing Machine, AquaTop Hang On and similar water clarification ONLY devices flooding the market!).
The correct use of a UV Sterilizer can aid in Redox Balance and in the end also aid in fish immunity and is a MUST for an aquarium with a history of Fish TB to check the spread based on my extensive experience with Fish TB and true UV Sterilizer use.

MUST READ Reference:
Ultraviolet Sterilization, Facts & Information; Including Level 1 & 2

Recommended Product Sources:
Level 1 & 2 UV Sterilizers
Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom Super Premium Fish Food; Far Ahead of any other!

The use of SeaChem Garlic Guard or similar in fish food can also be used in an ongoing basis to improve fish health and prevent Fish Tuberculosis.

Back to Bettas in particular, a problem I have seen based on patterns that are almost 100% identical and that is many Betta Forums and Clubs will pass around the same methods of Betta keeping that can increase the likelihood of TB infections.

This includes constant chasing of pH, 100% water changes, keeping of Bettas in very small closed environments, lack of positive mineral ions essential to immune response, passing around fish (with constant exposure and stress), and limited gene pools due to interbreeding.

My suggestion is to keep your Betta in a system with a larger volume of water with small individual containers.

Within this system these practices can aid in TB prevention:

Good bio filtration with quality sponge filters, or even better Fluidized Sand Bed filters, use of products such as SeaChem Purigen to further "clean" the water.

Product Resources:
*AAP High Capacity Hydro Sponge Filters
*AAP Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Bio Filters
*SeaChem Purigen; Clears Water of Dangerous Toxins

Maintenance of a stable pH & KH with as little of an effort as possible using products such as Alkaline Buffer, Acid Buffer, Driftwood, Pillow/Frog Moss, blended RO Water; IF NEEDED!

Product Resources:
*SeaChem Alkaline Buffer
*Zoomed Frog (Pillow Moss) for Natural Water Softening

Constant drip of ESSENTIAL mineral ion replenishing products such as SeaChem Replenish, or BETTER and more simply with AAP Original Wonder Shells This is one of the major causes of symptoms of Fish TB as the lack there of results in poor osmoregulation and higher oxidative stress.
As well to not be overly concerned with GH.
Further Reference: Aquarium Chemistry, GH

Product Resource: AAP Wonder Shells, Mineral Supplement, Unique Version

Do NOT pass your fish around in environments out of your control and attempt to bring new fish into your breeding operations from sources you are not 100% sure of.

Utilize a GOOD Level 1 UV Sterilizer such as the TMC Vecton. Do not fool yourself into complacency with one of the many UV Sterilizers sold for under $50 via Amazon or similar discounters, as there is not a one that can perform level one Sterilization (most do not have HO UV lamps and are missing pre-filters that are required)!!.

Reference:
UV Sterilization; Water Flow for Level 1
Buying Aquarium Products via Amazon (& Chewy, eBay)

Product Resource: TMC Vecton Premium High Dwell Time Aquarium, Ultra Violet Sterilizer

If you are breeding Bettas, keeping the Bettas within isolation boxes/containers with a much larger 'cubical based centralized system' is a practical way to utilize a good UV Sterilizer, as well as maintain much better water quality.
The picture below displays aquarium cubicals that I highly suggest for anyone serious about breeding bettas so as to be able to maintain more stable water quality and also utilize UV Sterilization!

These cubicals can be placed in larger aquarium and can also be blacked out to prevent interaction between Bettas.
However the cubicals do allow for interaction of "smell". My suggestion for this is to keep certain Bettas at different points in their breeding cycle together in the same aquarium system (in other words multiple systems

See also the articles below in the references/resources dealing with Aquarium Disease Prevention for more help in Fish TB prevention

Further References/Resources:

*Mycobacterial Infections of Fish
*http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?220754-Testing-for-quot-fish-TB-quot-pics-included
*Fish Diseases; Univ. of Florida
*Aquarium Disease Prevention; Proven Steps
*Mycobacterium triplex Pulmonary Disease in Immunocompetent Host

By Carl Strohmeyer
Copyright 2019

Other Suggested Resources, Products

*
AQUARIUM AND POND INFORMATION;
Well researched and up to date aquarium and pond answers, help, and links

*Columnaris in Aquarium Fish (also Fungus)
This is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Columnaris and Fish Fungus to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!

*The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
The most up to date article on the subject of the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle, based on both research and 35+ years of professional experience with 1000s of client aquariums!

*
UV Sterilization
This article covers many aspects of Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilization from how, why, facts, myths, and maintenance including the importance of changing UV Bulbs regularly.

*

UV Bulbs; Page 1
As noted above, changing these PREMIUM bulbs/lamps every 6-12 months is essential for a properly functioning UV Sterilizer

*Aquarium Silicone Sealant; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved, the same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!
Excellent for building aquarium systems of multi-tier fish housing.

*
Aquarium Lighting; Basic, Reef, Planted
The above referenced article is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Aquarium Lighting to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!

Atison's Spa Clear; Indian Almond Leaf Conditioner
Clear Betta Spa contains wild almond leaf extract to simulate the natural environment of the native soft water fish.
Other natural botanicals, including Yucca extract, help control ammonia, reduce stress and maintain cleaner water.

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

*Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium; Which is Correct?

ADVERTISEMENT

PUR, PAS, PAR in Aquarium Reef/Planted Lighting; LED Wavelengths

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 01:05:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 9/24/24

Lighting Overview

Water Depths & PUR Plant & Corals; Including Acropora Reefs:

RQE, PAR Meter Use

Real World Application of RQE, PAR. PUR, PAS, & Photons

PAR Saturation & Compensation Points

Spectrograms

Further Depth Penetration Information

Summary

Forward- Please read ALL the sources cited in this article, both mixed throughout and at the end for a full understanding of the concepts explained here.

Lighting Overview (Planted & Reef Aquarium):

This article is to understand how we can achieve optimum lighting for growth of a photosynthetic organism in our planted freshwater & reef aquariums, while considering having a limited artificial energy source, like a aquarium light fixture. We know we cannot create the amount of useable light the Sun gives, so we try to optimize the light we are able to make for a given about of watts (input energy).

I should note that a lot of aquarium lighting use history has gone into this subject, as we already know based on use of "warm white" fluorescent shop lights in the 1970s that we can grow plants, just not as efficiently as the lights we have now (Advanced reef keeping was not even possible with the available lights then).
So for some aquarium lighting experts to dismiss subjects such as the concept PUR as "theory" I have to respectfully disagree and I would state that this is showing a lack of knowledge or experience of the history of aquarium lighting.

We know that many man made white sources will grow plants, how well depending upon the PAR at the level where the plants are located (PPFD) and the efficiency of the often limited light energy we can provide (PUR).
However, we also know based on aquarium lighting history that when tri-chromatic, actinic and other "tuned" spectrum light sources were employed, in other words PUR, we did a better job growing these plants and eventually photosynthetic corals, etc. with the same exact input wattages.
Example: 40 watt warm white versus a 40 watt Trichromatic or a 40 watt cool white versus a 20 watt trichromatic plus a 20 watt actinic for anemone aquariums.

In the end, we know that long before the advent of LED lighting, improved PUR would provide more light energy for the same given input energy, which is why along with other efficiencies (including drivers, etc.) the many economy LED lights such as the Finnex require as much as 4-5 times the input wattage as a better higher efficiency LED, often making any up front savings go out the window.

Reference: Lighting the Planted Aquarium with Cara Wade | ScapeFu059

Related as per the importance of knowing aquarium keeping history: Bioavailable Carbon - CO2 and a Proper Gas Exchange

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PAR stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation.
This is commonly our starting point for determining whether or not a light fixture is adequate for our needs since it can be relatively objectively measured.

Further Reading: Aquarium Lighting; Measuring PAR

DETERMINING THE MOST EFFICIENT AQUARIUM LED LIGHT

Before we go into depth about the meat of this article, we can use the basics of PAR combined with input wattage to get some useful information about the efficiency of an aquarium LED light (or really any aquarium light).
The reason this is important is that many if not most LED fixtures can keep high light planted or reef aquariums, but many if not most use a lot more energy and last much lesser time due to inefficiencies than need be if built with efficiency (including optimized PUR) and durability in mind (which bring up initial costs, but pays for itself long term).

Here are five examples using PAR reading directly under the lights (within the FULL footprint of the light, not using pin point "hot-spots").
Keep in mind that the lower the number, THE MORE EFFICIENT the LED light is, and it is common for cheaper LED lights to have higher numbers:

AquaRay Reef White NP 2000. This is rated at 30 watts input energy with a PAR of 380 at 400mm of air.
This comes to .08 watts of input energy per 1 PAR

SB Reef Light PRO 32. This is rated at 363 watts input energy with a PAR of approximately 881 (100%) at 400mm of air.
This comes to .41 watts of input energy per 1 PAR (its Chinese made cousin, the Prizm is similar in its PAR efficiency)

Kessil A150. This is rated at 90 watts input energy with a PAR of approximately 325 (100%) at 400mm of air.
This comes to .27 watts of input energy per 1 PAR

Finnex Planted 24/7 20 inch model. This is rated at 15 watts input energy with a PAR of 61 at 400mm of air.
This comes to .24 watts of input energy per 1 PAR

Orbit Marine LED Light 18 inch model. This is rated at 18 watts input energy with a PAR of 50 at 400mm of air.
This comes to .36 watts of input energy per 1 PAR

VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified V450 450W. This is rated at 200 watts input energy with a PAR of 370 at 400mm of air.
This comes to .54 watts of input energy per 1 PAR

The CLEAR WINNER here as per LED efficiency for the important aspect of PAR output, is the AquaRay (sold in the USA primarily by American Aquarium Products/AAP), being 4 times more efficient than other premium aquarium LED lights and 7 times as efficient as the more common/cheaper brands often sold via Amazon and other discounters.

Obviously this is but a starting point as this article will clearly show in PUR & more, as we have to consider what we are using our lights for from planted freshwater to acropora reef lighting. But these efficiency readings speak volumes about who PUR, PWM, and wasted energy running fans affect PAR efficiency.
As per the LED themselves, different optics will also affect readings further out from the the center, which is why all are readings directly under the light.
However this certainly is an eye opening starting point as per the old term; "you get what you pay for" which when long term costs including short lives of popular "value" lights and 4-5 time operating costs in energy often these savings are evaporated after a few years.

PUR stands for Photosynthetically Useable Radiation. It is also sometimes simply known as "useful light energy".
Another description could be: "Quality of light per application" compared to PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) being the "quantity of light energy" used by photosynthetic life.
I think many in the hobby get "hung up" on this term, as it is a "fuzzy term (which I would partly agree since each plant, coral, etc, can be unique), but there are many aspects of science such as we have moved through the discovery of subatomic particles that are based on subatomic behavior, but not as easily measurable such as PAR is.

As well, we also know based on aquarium lighting history that we simply cannot dismiss the evidence supporting PUR as a fact either. It is unfortunate that many in this hobby will dismiss this term which has been around long before many even were born. The FACTS are, it was and is a useful term in that we knew decades ago that there was a pronounced difference in many fluorescent lights when everything else was equal; from input watts, lumens, length, type, etc and the only difference was the spectral output (PUR).

In fact, of late, a popular bulk reef/saltwater aquarium supply seller that is relatively new to the internet and hobby has made an article dismissing the term PUR and calling it marketing hype. Sadly it is they, who with their lack of decades of experience, that are using their article to market their inferior products that do not stand up to the standards discussed on this article.

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In the application of considering most the "useful" energy for plant or zooxanthellae mass growth, we need to consider the measurements of light, which triggers the main fuels for photosynthesis.

PPFD stands for photosynthetic photon flux density.
PPFD is a measure of the number of photons in the 400-700nm PAR range (photosynthetic active radiation) that fall on a square meter of target area per second. This is noteworthy since many light manufacturers might state high PAR numbers directly under the light source, but not at say 400mm (which is a more scientific measuring point employed by more reputable manufacturers). If that light energy isn’t getting to the target, along with less optimal PUR, you are not going to have as effective a light source for the input energy used. (Reference #20)

Another way to phrase PPFD is this is PAR at a distance, which in water can mean more energetic spectrums that penetrate deeper such as blues/violets, but may not necessarily be the optimal light energy for a given photosynthetic organism at a certain point in their growth cycle.

Photosynthetic Action Spectrum (PAS) describes the "rate of a physiological activity plotted against wavelength of light" for a given biological component of an organism. In this case, it would be chlorophyll A&B (main growth of a plant or coral zooxanthellae. (Reference #11).

While PUR is a more broad and generic term here, since it can be used in other applications, like the overall useful radiation for best plant health, not just growth.

PAS more addresses the specifics, since this is where the light energy (photons) activate photosynthesis. Another way to look at this (an analogy using biology), is that proteins are made up of amino acids, of which we know the specific amino acids we need for our physiological processes. Ditto PAS, which describes the specific action spectrums where photons begin photosynthesis.

PUR and more specifically PAS differs from PAR, because the basic definition of PAR is ANY light in the spectral range (wave band) of solar radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers, which photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis (Reference #12).
PUR is the usable portion of PAR or better is defined as the photosynthetically available radiant energy of such wavelengths, which can be absorbed by the algal and plant pigments more efficiently. Or stated another way, the photons of light at frequencies most readily usable for photosynthetic life, keeping mind that a photon is a photon, and they differ based frequency (more or less energized/energetic)

PAS is where an "action" begins of utilization of light energy by the photosynthetic life.
Of this "action spectrum" (as shown in the graph to the above left), we know the general range of photosynthetic response for most photosynthetic life forms. However, there are slight variations among different photosynthetic species, which will have a different PUR range to which they respond optimally.

Even within these variations, we do know certain wave lengths, such as green/yellow are generally less efficient for growth (mass) when considering trying to get the best growth with the limited input energy. OR in other words, getting the more useful output energy for the given input energy.

As noted in PUR (reaction) and PAS (action), there are variations in plants, aquatic plants, and zooxanthellae, in what these optimum exacting spectrums may be.

In nature, often these are influenced environmental differences, such as water depths, which will filter out red light spectrums more than blue, since blue is of a higher frequency, which can pass deeper into water (or even plant tissue). This is why zooxanthellae will generally require higher "spikes" in the blue spectrums.

However what we do know are the generalizations of what these photosynthetic action spectrums are.
As a simplified example; if one were to use a scale of 1 to 100 to represent PAR, and say one species might need more at 15 while another need more light energy at 20, these still fall within what we know as PUR. What we also know is that any light, which has its primary energy at 50 on our simplified scale, this middle energy is at least as 30% less efficient by itself for the vast majority of photosynthetic life intentionally kept in aquariums or grown in vertical farms. Yet, we also know based on studies, there appears to be a certain synergy from all wavelengths, which can aid in growth.

Further References (there are many more reference throughout and at the end of this article):
*Aquarium Lighting; PUR
*St. Mary's College LED Experiments
In the St. Mary's reference we see evidence of what LEDs using more precise PUR/PAS emitter/LED technology can do for coral growth.

Here is a more recent update from St. Mary's utilizing high efficiency LED lighting:
Sustainable Science Thesis & Abstract Update

In a recent CBS news story, a large "Vertical Farm" in Portage, Indiana is using LED lights, which are specific to the light energy used most efficiently by plants, NOT PAR (combined usefulness from all light), which so many aquarium keepers seem greatly confused by.

This farm uses just the red and blue spectrum emitters, NOT additional green emitters or other emitters such as cool or warm white, which are used by some of the most popular LED fixtures. These emitters might be pleasing to us and certainly have useful light energy too, but it's demonstrative that these are simply less efficient.
Better for our aquatic use might be more efficient emitters using high amounts of energy in useful blue and a overall spectrum including all colors (including. green and yellow) (such as the Cree XB-D 6500K). This gives us the "useful" PAS, with the "useful" PAR.

This is a real world application, which shows where NOT JUST using lighting, which are high in CRI (Green-Yellow) (pleasing to us), rather lights specifically using applicable PAS.

Just using PAS would use the least amount of input energy for output of useful light energy.

The billion dollar question as of 2020 is how to create the most effective white light (all color light mixed), considering how effective all the colors in the white light produce photosynthesis.

This question can be asked of PUR/PAS naysayers:
Why would a business use lighting, which might look better by containing all PAR light spectrums, including more yellow and green (common with most aquarium LED lights in varying amounts, including the AquaRay, EcoTech, BML, and more, many of whom do not even publish their emitter spectrograms), but then would use more electricity, when using ONLY optimum wavelength/frequency lighting would produce the same or better results for much less electricity costs?
To be blunt, part of the problem is the aquarium hobby being a "non essential business", often thrives on hype and marketing. But when it comes to well funded research in horticultural businesses, they can care less about this hype and go with what works best of the lowest input energy for the most output energy.

Reference: Vertical farms: "Making nature better"

This targeting of optimum wavelength lighting is becoming more and more widespread in industry, it's only a few in the aquarium hobby that are behind the curve.

Why this becomes important is understanding the differences in growth when not considering PUR/PAS, when we have a limited energy source, such as as light fixture.
Fixtures focused on PUR/PAS produce far more growth than fixtures not using high PUR fixtures. Growth is night and day, with less than optimum PUR/PAS fixtures taking far more energy to produce typical growth. They might even produce less than typical growth. Certainly not optimum growth.

I'm NOT saying LED lights (or other lights) with high percentages of green, yellow or use of cool/warm white emitters cannot keep photosynthetic life, only that this is just one reason why a light of lower PAR and input wattage, can actually produce more optimum wavelength or output energy.
As an aquarium keeper, we certainly want our corals and plants to look pleasing, but often this comes at the expense of more wasted light energy then needed. This is also not a new question/problem, as this goes back to the use of T12 fluorescent lights too where we later moved on to more efficient T6 & T5 lights.

For clarity, let me emphasize that I am NOT stating PAR is not an important measurement, just that this "light measurement" should never be the only consideration in determining the best light for your reef, planted or even just mixed aquarium. Understanding how much of the PAR is focused the important PAS, which becomes critical in aquarium lighting.

With LEDs, we are able to select nanometers of lighting, we wish to focus our energy.

Just using one brand so as to be comparing "apples to apples", the AquaRay Fiji Blue (about 450nm) and Marine White (10,000k) #600 LED strips both have the same input energy (12 watts), the same drivers, the only difference being the emitter spectrums. Yet the PAR at 400mm (output energy) from the Marine White is considerable higher than the Fiji Blue.
Does this make the Marine White superior to the Fiji Blue? The answer is not necessarily as it depends upon the application. In this same line of fixtures the Reef White #600 also has a lower PAR than the Marine White #600, yet in most reef applications deeper than 12" of water, the Reef White would be the better choice!!

The aquarium above is a planted 75 gallon aquarium utilizing two GroBeam LED lights. It's kept "low tech" with no added CO2 other than Flourish Excel and minimal other supplements. The only high tech aspect of this aquarium is the LED lighting, which uses high PUR/PAR, licensed emitters, and PWM technology.

The aquarium to the right is a planted tank utilizing (4) TMC Aquaray Growbeam Ultima 600's before and after pruning.
This growth happens in about 2 weeks.
Also used in the 2nd tank: 1500 TMC FSB Filter, AAP Sunsun canister, NilocG EI Ferts, AAP Wonder Shells (Courtesy Chris O'Hara)

Besides of course the measurement of output energy (PAR, also called Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, which is a measure of the number of photons), Useful Light Energy/PUR/Optimum Wavelength has become one of the more important aspects of choosing an aquarium light since the advent of high end Aquarium LED Light Fixtures.
By high end I mean better and targeted emitter bins, advanced drivers/circuitry versus the many low end LED fixtures available (generally out of China), which essentially are not much better that household LED emitters (Christmas lights) daisy chained together with even much of the input energy wasted as heat energy before it even becomes PAR photons of energy.

Since even the best of fluorescent lights such as T5, T2, and SHOs still emit a considerable amount of light energy in light spectrums not targeted for photosynthetic life, acquainting oneself with this aspect of light energy is very important if you are considering a new light fixture, especially a high end LED (such as the TMC AquaRay).

Water Depths & PUR Plant & Corals; Including Acropora Reefs:

Environmental factors for natural light and water penetration.

PUR & PAS are also affected by water depths, with blue light around 420-480nm (within the PAR range) having the best useful depth penetration (including for our aquariums).
This is an important note for many zooanthellic algae symbiotic dependent corals, clams, etc. in choosing the correct light as well as per specimen placement to achieve the best PAS/PUR light energy.

The picture to the above left shows Spectral Light Absorption in certain water depths.
What is noteworthy is that essential near red light energy becomes less viable not much under water surface, as per PAR requirements of Photosynthetic response and Chlorophyll synthesis of plants and green algae.
Further Reference: Aquarium Lighting, PAR, Photosynthetic Response

Plants and zooanthellic algae have adapted to certain depths and is why a 6500K (white light focused in the middle of the visual spectrum) light generally works well (or best) for planted freshwater or refugium aquariums under 20-24 inches of water.
While zooanthellic algae dependent corals require more blue and higher kelvin daylight energy such as 9000K, 10,000K, 14,000K, & 20,000K lights (more intense energy), because of the more energy corals need and the depth as aquarium depths increase (such as 24+ inches of water depth).

Even in a planted tank over say over 24" in depth a higher Kelvin temperature light such as 8500K might be better, when more energy is needed for higher demanding plants.

With this information about actual sunlight penetration, we can safely make some accurate assumptions, even if relatively general.
As you can see, the Photosynthetic response and Chlorophyll synthesis do NOT penetrate much past 25 and 50 meters of water respectively.
So using Acropora Coral as an example, these have been found at varying depths mostly less than 25 meters, but generally thrive at 6 meters, producing an environment, which is deficient in these photosynthetic response and Chlorophyll synthesis light PAR spikes would result in less than optimal results.
Reference: https://www.nova.edu/ncri/11icrs/proceedings/files/m24-15.pdf

What the above means to the aquarium keeper is no artificial light; not LED or Metal Halide or any other is going to be equivalent to the energy of the Sun (tropics at noon is closer to 6500K at the surface of water).

So using a 20,000K fluorescent, Metal Halide 20,000K, or LED setup that is 2/3 blue is likely NOT going to produce optimum results in a tank of approximately 20 inches or less of depth.

With this lighting in a shallow tank you're more than likely producing environment, which simulates many meters deeper than optimum. This still might be fine if this is the depth the specimens being kept are naturally adapted to as per specific wavelengths of light (nanometers).

Of course this begs the question of what the comparison would be and at this point I don't have a scientific equivalent (maybe there's one, but this would be difficult with the plethora of lighting choices and their subtle differences).

The picture to the left clears up the confusion in my opinion (& experience too), since this displays an aquarium lit with 20,000K lighting and a natural Acropora reef.
It's obvious the aquarium is much more blue than the natural reef.

However, since NO artificial light, including the best LEDs or even Metal Halide (such as the top notch "Radion" 20K MH) can approach the Sun's energy even in the color temperatures, which make up CRI (what looks best to us). The result is it often takes more "blue" appearing man made light energy to achieve the best possible PUR/PAR for your aquarium 'reef'.
Often man-made lights, in particular many of the Johnny-come-lately LEDs will utilize lower kelvin white emitters and red emitters in an attempt to make a more human pleasing light, but as a result often waste more energy outside the essential PUR spikes needed by photosynthetic reef life.

This picture comparison makes it clear that the more blue light might be what humans "crave", but certainly is not "What Corals Crave" as per an excellent advertising slogan for a popular high power, low efficiency & low PUR Chinese LED light used for both reef and planted aquariums.

Further Information: Aquarium Lighting; CRI

To the left is a picture of a 150 gallon reef aquarium that also has Acropora corals (for 6 months at the time of the picture).
PLEASE NOTE; this picture is much closer in color to the natural Acropora reef than the 20,000K light aquarium to the left in the picture above that is unfortunately more common with how many light their aquariums with Metal Halide or LED lights.

The picture to the left is courtesy of "Aquarium Lighting, Facts & Information"
This Reef tank is running AquaRay/AquaBeam NP 1500 & 2000 tiles which employ the more natural patented Osram Olson NP Blue emitters.

What is also noteworthy is that PAR readings taken in 2011 on Bali Island at a coral farm, is that they kept corals for best growth about 1.5-2 meters under water surface. For best pigment intensification, even deeper; 3.5-4 meters.
Here is the point, the average PAR reading was 160 and never exceeded 200, not the higher reading often cited by many for their high intensity lights, especially Metal Halide.
WHY, quite obviously they is much more at play than just PAR and many of the best lights, including Metal Halides simply make up for lack of optimum PUR with higher PAR numbers than needed, in other words while quantity of light is most important, there is still a quality of light too!!!

The previously noted comparison picture also makes the point that while at 6 meters, an Acropora Coral colony is not all that deep by ocean standards, but try getting your Metal Halide, T5, or LED light to penetrate 6 meters (over 18 feet)!!

This then can be applied to lighting our standard high (24" inch aquarium), for whatever we are trying to growth (plants, harder plants, soft coral, hard coral).

This is why we MUST pick a light, which will closest meet these key photosynthetic response 'spikes' (PAS), while still considering more intense energy is needed (from more blue light), more depth is involved, and the all the other light needed for photosynthesis (PAS), as well as consideration of RQE (discussed more in the next section). Rather than pick a light, which most looks like the sunlight underwater at a certain depth to our eyes.

This said, one LED emitter SPECIFICALLY designed for reef life, the Osram Olson NP Blue emitter is probably the closest to this same softer white/blue found naturally in reef containing Acropora coral, while producing more intense energy found in higher kelivn ratings of lights (Such as 20K-50K).

What is also noteworthy and a popular trend is the use of "Near Ultraviolet" emitters (basically roughly between 300-400nm UVB- mostly UVA). This is intended to give a cool "pop" to many LPS and SPS corals, but what readers should note is that EVERY watt of energy used for these emitters is mostly useless for your photosynthetic corals as it is outside the known PAR/PUR spectrums.
This simply is a fad, which many LED manufacturers are following, including EcoTech and TMC AquaRay. At least with AquaRay they came out with this NUV emitter in a 600 Ultima fixture, which is a separate supplemental light, NOT as part of a premier self contained reef light fixture as EcoTech has done.

PAR Saturation & Compensation Points of Acropora:

Acropora and other photosynthetic life require a minimum amount of light; this is called the "Compensation Point". The other lighting consideration is the "Saturation Point"; which is when the rate of photosynthesis does not increase with increasing light intensity.
For reef aquarium keepers, it is our goal to exceed the amount of light required for the Compensation Point but not pass the Saturation Point (it is noteworthy though, that the amount of light required for expression of color in corals often exceeds the Saturation Point).

Some species of Acrpora can change their "Compensation" and "Saturation Points" - this is known as Photoadaptation. Photoadaptation allows zooxanthellae to lower their Compensation and Saturation Points as depth increases (and available light decreases) and in shaded areas.
As we have already noted, a coral found in 40 meters of water sometimes requires less light than a coral found in a shallow tide pool. Photoadaptation is not unlimited, and some types of zooxanthellae can adapt better than others, and the type of zooxanthella plays an important role.

The graph below shows the PAR "Saturation Point" of various Acropora species

Reference: Light Requirements of a Coral Genus Often Found in Reef Aquaria

Quantum PAR Meters & Relative Quantum Efficiency (RQE):

These are a useful tool, in fact often the starting point for measure light "usefulness" in measuring light photon quantity. But it is sometimes over used for determining how effective a light is if other aspects are ignored. I will give a brief explanation along with resources about their use.

Here is an excellent description of what a PAR meter measures:
"When measured in photon terms, PAR is also called Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD), which is a measure of the number of photons in the 400 nm to 700 nm waveband that are incident per unit time on a unit surface. When expressed in photon terms, all the photons are considered equal (Red Line), independent of their energy. The quantity of photons is measured in moles of photons (1 mole of photons = 6.022 x 1023 photons = 1 Einstein). In practice, PPFD is measured in microEinstein/m2/second, or µE/s*m2"."
Referenced from: https://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/MetalHalideLamps1.htm

It is noteworthy that a PAR Meter is not 100% accurate in important light energy spikes WITHIN the 400 to 700 nanometer range, so while one light might measure a higher PAR mmol reading, another light might be still superior due to the more wavelength output one is trying to achieve.
An example could be the 6500K Daylight XB-D emitters with 12 watts of input energy, and the same drivers with a PAR of 61 µMolm versus the same exact fixture with XT-E blue emitters with a PAR of 38 µMolm.
Does this mean the Daylight fixture is superior or higher "quality" of light output? NO, as it depends upon the application where the daylight fixture might be better for a planted aquarium application, while the 450 nm XT-E blue might be a better choice as part of a reef lighting application.

We now also have some very pricey PAR meters (Li-Cor PAR Meter) (Measure Yeild Photon Flux (YPF) Mcree Weighted PAR) that can measure approximately 390nm to 720nm, and much more accurately within these parameters. This might be the better choice for those looking to get more scientific about their lighting, especially with new research showing use of light outside the accepted PAR being utilized. Li-Cor meters do not consider photons equal (Green Line).

"Quantum efficiency"; this term generally refers to the efficiency to incident photon to converted electron (IPCE) ratio of a photosynthesis.

This does not mean that this is the PUR/wavelength (or photosynthetic action spectrum-PAS) of a Zooxanthellae or plant, but does give an idea of overall PUR (PAR/YPF/RQE) of all light working together for photosynthesis.

To the left is a graph showing the Relative quantum efficiency curve (aka the McCree Curve of 1972). This is related to the photosynthetic action spectrum of photosynthetic plants, algae, and Zooxanthellae
According to the quantum theory, radiant energy is transmitted and absorbed in discrete particles called quanta or photons which this curve "predicts" the efficiency and CO2 assimilation rates.

Along with the quantum theory, we have the electromagnetic theory that together in my understanding provide the most relevant explanation of those characteristics of radiant energy that are useful for understanding photosynthetic requirements and illumination.
Besides the quantum theory, the electromagnetic theory states that the radiant energy is propagated in the form of an electromagnetic wave. As with any wave, radiant energy has a wavelength and a frequency associated with it. The wavelengths of light are usually expressed in nanometers, where 1 nm = 1 billionth of a meter.

Plants usually convert light into chemical energy with a photosynthetic efficiency of 3–6%. Any absorbed light that is unconverted is dissipated primarily as heat, with a small fraction (1-2%) re-emitted as chlorophyll fluorescence at longer wavelengths.
Actual plants' photosynthetic efficiency varies with the frequency of the light being converted, light intensity, temperature and proportion of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, and can vary from 0.1% to 8%.
Reference #18

This curve/graph has been used a lot of late, and it certainly holds a lot of merit, showing that green light is indeed used in photosynthesis; at a generally accepted 30% lower efficiency rate (based on reflection).

We do also know based on real world plant growth studies, white light, which is green heavy (around 50%) actually begins to slow plant growth.(Reference #5). So there's a balance to all colors needed.

Be careful about making the assumption that this means plants, especially water plants and even more so photosynthetic corals need yellow and orange light spectrums in large quantities as some online articles imply, as both extensive practical experience by many as well as the documented experiments shows this to simply not be true.
Blue has shown better growth, but yellow is still important synergy.

Even with Terrestrial plants under artificial lighting, we know that blue lights along with even more so reds are what matter for optimal efficient growth, this is demonstrated both practically and factually by the Vertical Farms link I provided earlier where 2/3 of the light is provided by the red spectrums and 1/3 by the blue and NO light from green, yellow or even orange.
This is again why (as noted earlier too) why a white LED such as the AquaRay GroBeam would not be the best choice for an application such as a vertical farm since it too adds all cyan, green, yellow and orange color spectrums!

However it is noteworthy that green light does penetrate better than reds due to the higher photon frequency, but our cited references and this graph show at least 20-30% lower efficiency as well as practical experience has shown that green is less efficient and while part of photosynthesis, in amounts over 25-50% of overall light energy actually slows growth. As well it has been demonstrated that green can be only 20% as efficient as certain blue spectrums, as I will demonstrate in the next section. (Real World Applications)

We also know from both science and decades of practical experience that without the blue, corals such as acropora will not thrive.

To the left is another graph that displays most electrically efficient colors of LEDs, based on moles of photosynthetic photons per joule. These are blue, red, and cool white, respectively.
We also know that some of the earliest LED emitters and common LED emitters still used in LED flashlights tend to be in these more spectrums or type (you can see this when comparing a LED flashlight to halogen flashlight).

Another term that we should know is "Quantum Yield in Photosynthesis".
Quantum yield in photosynthesis is the moles of CO2 fixed per mole of quanta (photons) absorbed, or else the efficiency with which light is converted into fixed carbon. Typically about 0.06 moles CO2 are fixed per mole of quanta under favorable conditions (and normal (ambient) CO2 concentration).

References:
*https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC286034/pdf/pnas00103-0306.pdf
*Quantum efficiency
*Quantum yield of photosynthesis?
*Wikipedia; Photosynthetic Action Spectrum

Real World Application of RQE, PAR. PUR, PAS, & Photons:

The two pictures above make a real world application point as to the real outcome of light wave lengths.
The first picture to the left displays plant growth with three different light sources, driven at lower and higher PAR values.
It is clear from the graph that the green is 50% less efficient than the red and a whopping 80% less efficient than the blue. So this study somewhat destroys the 30% argument!
Reference #16)

The next study, which is one that made me really start looking into LED lights more in 2007 including in my "Aquarium Lighting" article. This one obviously has a few added variables, most notably the input energy in joules of a Metal Halide is considerably higher with vastly more energy being wasted as heat energy, never going to photons of light.
However when you get down to the actual lumens of energy, the Metal Halide is still higher yet the growth rate is still considerably and very measurably lower!
Why? The only answer is the photons of light coming from the 6500K LED Grow Light (generic brand) are at a frequency more readily used by this plant, in other words a higher useful energy or PUR.

Here are a few more example based on the history of aquarium lighting which I alluded to at the beginning of the article:

Using T12 Fluorescent lights of equal length & wattage as an example, where by lumens per watt, light spread, input energy is ALL EQUAL; when we switched from a warm white light to a trichromatic daylight T12, plant growth increased

Again using a T12 fluorescent lamp, except this time two 20 watt cool white, when we changed to one triton and one actinic, we able to maintain some photosynthetic marine life we previously could not

Using equal sized "aquarilux" T8 lamps (made by PennPlax), while these really made the aquarium fish and decor "pop" with color, better growth was achieved with a 6500k daylight lamp of the same size and type (T8).

What the three examples only differ on is spectrum or "PUR", all other variables were the same.
What also stands out is that while some lighting professionals might state that all "white light can grow plants", this is based on recent history. As most modern LEDs CAN grow plants since so much light energy is being delivered, there is generally enough energy to grow the plant (or corals), just not as efficiently as a more targeted single light source with a spectrum imitating the spectrum of noon-time tropical sun such as pure daylight 6500K versus blended light colors.
The above make for easy to understand examples because we were still at very marginal energy delivery with a 40 watt Trichromatic T12 light, so having an optimal spectrum was VERY noticeable where it would not be with a light that puts out copious amounts of PAR (but why still waste energy and not have the best when it it possible?)

There are many more real world examples, including those we have already provided such as the average PAR at a Coral Farm that uses sunlight and is still lower PAR than many drive their artificial lights at to maintain a healthy reef aquarium, which obviously screams out that there is more at play than just quantity of photons.

Finally, let me clear something up based on feedback; I am well aware that a photon IS A photon having a very strong science based background (as a child, I rarely read novels, but as my parents can attest to, I read the entire World Book encyclopedia set cover to cover and more than once at that).
Just as I know based on radio wave navigation being a pilot as well that a FM radio wave is line of sight while an AM wave bounces, it is basic science that the only difference between one photon of light and another is the frequency and energy level. We know that a blue light is simply a photon with a lower wave length but higher frequency and energy level than a photon of red light, but they are both photons.

Think of how an X-Ray, which is lower waver length and higher energy yet than a blue 420 nm blue photon, penetrates your body. Would a 420nm blue blue light work if you need a light that penetrates as an X-Ray does? Of course not as there IS a QUALITY of light/photons based on the application at hand!!!
Ditto how the visible blue, green, and red spectrum behave, but with much smaller differences in frequency.

Bringing this back to photosynthesis, photosynthetic plants and alga respond differently to these varied frequencies of each photon, with water adding to the equation since shorter wave lengths penetrate more readily with a given energy level.
This is where we get our useful light energy term from, as do know (as graphically demonstrated above) that certain photo frequencies react differently and thus are likely used differently by photosynthetic life forms. It is noteworthy that while we can certainly make generalizations, we know aquatic life, especially marine life have adapted/evolved to utilized the type of light most common in their environment, which we in turn need to duplicate as best as possible with our still feeble when compared to the sun man-made lights!

Also do not let the use lower higher energy/frequency of blue light confuse you that blue light would equal more photons, as it would not. This is determined by the amount of input energy. As even a higher input energy (in joules) of red light will penetrate deeper than a small input of the same red light.
Think of a flashlight that has its batteries mostly worn down versus when new, you can easily see how the newer battery light cut through dark moonless night.

Spectrograms/ Spectrographs:

Spectrograms or spectrographs are often used to determine PUR (Useful Light Energy), however I have found these are not fool proof either.
Although when it comes to many of the LED Aquarium Lights now flooding the market, Spectrograms are often very difficult to come by.
Part of the reason in my opinion and from knowing many in the industry is that the development of new LED emitters and drivers to run the emitters is at a fast pace, while the cost of producing a spectrograph for such a narrow band of users is simply too cost prohibitive (aquarium use of just the better LED emitter bins is but a needle in a haystack in the high end LED emitter industry).
The other part of the reason is a bit more deceptive and that is many simply are VERY lacking in essential PUR!

However there are both good and bad LED fixtures with either new spectrographs available or outdated spectrographs. As well while spectrographs are useful, these too do NOT show the whole PUR story anymore than a PAR meter accurately depicts the type of light energy delivered (especially in the blues).

However taken together (PUR Spectrograph and PAR reading), a more complete picture can be extrapolated where the mmol (µMol•m²•sec) reading of a PAR Meter can be combined with the spectrograph of actual specific light energy wavelengths.
If a spectrograph is equal, PAR comparisons can be more accurate too!!

Here are a couple of spectrograms we produced;

*The first to the left displays 12 different spectrograms for singular emitter types, (no mixed emitters).

The light energy spectrograph of the high output 4.5 volt DC LED flashlight is interesting, as it displays a reasonably good spectrograph. HOWEVER the output of actual energy (in wattage and PAR mmol) is obviously much lower than the 3 watt XR, XG, XT, ML, & XB Cree emitters as well as the cutting edge Osram Olson NP Blue emitter.
Similar can be said about the 3 watts input spread over the entire TMC Flexi Red (spread over 18 inches) and similar LED Strips.
Which is why neither of these are nearly as much of a factor in your aquarium lighting scheme for higher light requiring planted or reef aquariums. This is not to say the Flexi-Red cannot add some "Useful Light Energy" (especially in the near-infrared) as a compliment to say a GroBeam or similar high output LED Fixture.

In the end, input energy must be considered, and of course PAR is most certainly an important measurement still since we would clearly find that the flashlight has a much lower PAR than any light using the higher power Cree emitters & others commonly used in most aquarium LED fixtures.

The picture above can be clicked on to enlarge

To make clear as per Spectrograms/spectrographs, as I noted earlier, these are not fool proof since there are aspects we do not fully understand including the possible synergetic affect of certain combined spectrums.
Real world examples of where we need to be careful would include my extensive experience, albeit anecdotal, with fluorescent lights. One such extensive experience is the use of Triton 6500 K T12 lights versus other brands. They all had an equal 40 watts input energy and similar spectrographs, yet the difference in plant growth was quite noticeable.

EXAMPLES; (Admittedly over simplified for better understanding).
These are assuming a 30% lower green efficiency, which is being generous based on proven real world studies that show lower green efficiency of closer to 50-80%, if these studies are taken into account, the differences are more dramatic:

*Exhibit ONE that measures a 150 PAR reading at 12 inches
*Exhibit TWO that measures a 120 PAR reading at 12 inches

However Exhibit ONE produces 50% of its energy in the less efficient green to yellow spectrum (assuming 30% less based on RQE) and the other 50% in the photosynthetic active range while exhibit TWO produces 90% of its energy in the exact spikes of the photosynthetic active range.

So with the math, this brings down exhibit ONE to essentially 118 efficient/useful PAR while exhibit TWO is at 128 useful light energy PAR.
Obviously what appeared to be the much more inferior light is much closer. If now driven with optimal drivers & PWM, (often requiring cooling fans) the 120 PAR might be the better choice for light efficiency since it will likely require much less input energy for output of useful/efficient PAR!!

As a more extreme analogy, which no Aquarium LED light employs, so I'm using it only to make a point:
*Exhibit ONE that measures a 150 PAR reading at 12 inches using ONLY green emitters
*Exhibit TWO that measures a 120 PAR reading at 12 inches producing 90% of its energy in the exact spikes of the photosynthetic active range

In this fictitious comparison (since no light uses only green emitters), Exhibit ONE produces 105 PAR, and is not not only less energy efficient, but also produces less actual usable PAR.
Hopefully this fictitious comparison drives home the point that one can have a high PAR, but lower PUR & PAS.

A good example is the EcoTech Radion (with off the shelf, but still excellent Cree XT-E & XG-E emitters) and AI Sol, versus the AquaBeam Reef White NP 2000 Ultima, which does not have as high a PAR reading, but their PUR is higher per wattage used due to more specific patented emitter bins, PWM, and better drivers (constant current drivers versus RGB control features).
It is also noteworthy that the AquaRay 2000 NP as well as the 1500 utilizes the unique Osram Olson NP Blue Emitter which actually is a FULL PUR/PAR Spectrum light, not just blue.

While the EcoTech Radio Pro produces 1100 µMol•m²•sec PAR (at 6" as per EcoTech's published information), the TMC NP 2000 produces 380 µMol•m²•sec (at 15" as per TMC's published information).
The input wattage is 170 watts for the EcoTech and 30 watts for the AquaRay, therefore is takes about (5) AquaRay 2000s to equal the wattage used of the EcoTech Pro, which then equals 1900 µMol•m²•sec PAR for the AquaRay. ABOUT DOUBLE (and likely more than double since the AquaRay published numbers are at more than twice the depth for PAR measurements)!!

The above example means that it takes DOUBLE the input energy for the EcoTech to equal the AquaRay, ASSUMING the spectrographs are equal, which in the case of the EcoTech Radion Pro it is quite similar but for wasted energy with the NUV emitters used, unlike the AquaRay 1500 & 2000. This can also be said of some of the lessor brands too, such as the Taotronic, Ocean Revive, Evergrow, etc.

Why the difference?
Simply less efficient emitters, a not as good a choice of emitter, and certainly a LOT of wasted energy as heat.

This is not to say the EcoTech Radion (or others) cannot keep Reef life, but these have more wasted energy as a percentage energy wattage input then the light energy output.

Please see the graph in this article below which clearly displays the difference in PUR between emitters:
Aquarium Lighting; PUR including Graph

Before I seem to pick on the EcoTech, let me perform a comparison of the EcoTech Radion Pro versus the Evergrow LED. assuming PAR and wattage used are the same, but use the VERY IMPORTANT PUR Spectrograph to determine light quality.

Using the Evergrow (AKA Ocean Revive) as a comparison, and since this company does not publish a spectrograph (for obvious reasons in my opinion), I will compare emitters used to the superior EcoTech.

Since it is well established that the warm white emitters used are inferior as per the graph in the above cited reference, we can safely assume the Evergrow has a lessor spectrograph than the EcoTech.

So say both produced 500 µMol•m²•sec at 15", would both lights be equal?
The simple answer is NO!!

The Ecotech would be superior, as when if all parameters are equal, including PAR readings, the PUR is going to trump the PAR. This is why PAR reading should only be taken as the starting point and PUR should ALWAYS be considered in the mix since as it is the "photostynthetically USEFUL Radiation".

What a reef keeper who is considering one of the many LED lights now available should consider, especially the Chinese brands such as TaoTronics or Evergrow, as per the "scientific numbers", which again relates to PUR versus PAR is the emitters used in terms of wattage draw and PUR output per intended application.

Couple this with the fact that with the other less than optimal bridgelux emitters, use of current reduction technology; One requires a 120 watt LED fixture for the Evergrow, Taotronics, and many similar LEDs to even questionably have the same output in "quality" photons as say an AquaRay Reef White 2000 Ultima at 30 watts of energy consumed or two BML 14000K Reef Spectrums of a combined 32 watts energy consumed so as to keep reef life.

One then has to ask why bother replacing your Metal Halides of 150 watts just to save 30 watts of energy, not to mention the high heat output that may still require chillers, and in the end the need for cooling fans for current reduction technology that has resulted in fan break downs and even fires????

Another aspect of PUR which is noteworthy is popular use of RGB features where by the user can control the color output of the lights.

The problem with this feature is when one alters the colors, you also alter the spectral output.

This may not affect PAR, but it MOST CERTAINLY affects PUR!!
These features should be avoided unless being used as a decorative light. I would not recommend these features for a serious reef or planted freshwater aquarium keeper.

Depth Penetration:

(Please click picture to enlarge)

Depth Penetration is another consideration when choosing lighting. This is where the Metal Halide used to "control the market".
However modern LEDs have closed this gap considerably with lights such as the AI Sol Vega Blue, Kessil, and the TMC AquaRay Fiji Blue, Reef Blue, 2000 Reef White, and Ocean Blue NP Ultima, among others high end LEDs intended for reef aquariums.

The blue spectrums are more important to many light sensitive corals for the Phototropic response aspect of PAR, in part since these corals, clams, etc. live in environments where little higher spectrums of light reaches these corals.
In an aquarium this becomes more important in depths much over 20-24 inches, depending upon the light used including its raw energy.

Even here consider what is used.
In the picture above where a sheet of computer paper is used to block light energy, you can see how the Fiji Blue with its unlensed XT-E emitters has a more deeper blue (down to about 420nm) light which generally would penetrate better than a higher nanometer color light.
However the Reef Blue with its more focused ML-E royal blue emitters has more depth penetration as shown in this picture.
For this reason, while the Fiji Blue might seem like the better choice for tanks over 24 inches in depth, this picture very simply shows this to not be correct.

This is not to say the Fiji Blue or similar violet emitters used by a few LED fixture are a poor choice, only that using focused emitters can also make a difference.
In fact, lights such as the Violet/Fiji Blue LED are useful in providing specific wavelengths many corals might require, my point is simply do not purchase these for optimum depth penetration.

Also sometimes a mix of "blues" such as in the EcoTech Radion can make a difference in depth penetration.
The "Reef White 2000HD Ultima NP" or "Ocean Blue NP Ultima" also includes the Osram Olson new "NP blue emitters" in their mix.

This is also where the new Osram Olson NP (Nature Perfect) Blue emitter excels since these are the first emitters designed specifically for reef aquarium life.
Basically these are a FULL SPECTRUM "Blue" LED emitter (see the spectrograph below)

Product Resources:
*AAP Ocean Blue 1500 Reef Aquarium LED Light Fixture
*AAP Reef White 2000HD Ultima NP (for deeper aquariums)
*AAP AquaBeam 600 Ultima LEDs, including the Fiji Blue

BEWARE of a Parasite Resaler buying their way up in Google's algorithm using this information here and elsewhere to undercut professional sellers such as AAP to sell AquaRay LED lighting with an official sounding URL and offering promo codes for their clearance inventory!!! Once their inventory is gone, where will you be if you need warranty help?
Place their address into Google Maps and you will see it is not even a legitimate business!!
The sources above are from the ONLY true & experienced professional online resaler in North America, do not make the mistake of purchasing other than AAP

The picture below further displays some of the differences in "blue" depth penetrating lighting:

Now using the AI Sol Vega Blue as an example, it uses uses (4) Cree XM-L Cool White LEDs, (8) Cree XP-E Royal Blue LEDs, (4) Cree XP-E Blue LEDs, and (4) OSRAM OSLON Standard Deep Blue LEDs.
This is a good depth penetration light if only by virtue of the many blue emitters used and proprietary 40 and 70 degree lenses, however it does fall short in that it uses older bin low depth penetrating cool white and the standard XP emitters are not intended as a depth penetrating emitter (unlike the XR-E and even newer ML-E Blue). As well this light uses RBG features and Current Reduction, rather than PWM which further lowers PUR and wastes energy as heat instead of light energy.
Reference: Aquarium Lighting; PWM

Summary

Hopefully readers come away after reading this article and its many cited resources with a better understanding of PUR/quality of light, not that I am stating certain LEDs or other lights in particular CANNOT keep photosynthetic life.
As well I am NOT stating that if a fixture uses green emitters it is a poor light.
In fact, green light has some proven applications in a closed environment for more growth when under 24% of overall light spectrum as well as producing a more pleasing overall light when part of the spectrum (as well as some synergy of all light spectrums). However a fixture that is heavier in the green spectrums is going to be less efficient for photosynthetic growth and possibly detrimental when over 25% of the overall spectrum as per cited .edu references.

I will also add that one has to look at the preponderance of evidence, both from .edu websites, NOVA, and similar sources as well as practical experiments and use COMMON SENSE that if one theoretical article comes to different conclusions, but the preponderance says otherwise, that we need to go with what in the end the majority of evidence states (not that what a contradictory relative quantum efficiency graph states that does not agree with other evidence and experiments such as cited at Reference #5).

We also need to understand that all these studies using different light spectrums for growth, including green, that these are in closed & controlled environments (which of course are aquariums are closed environments).
However in nature it has long been established, including in an episode of NOVA (PBS science series) that green light in the open environment of nature is generally not used.
So in the end, when one forces their plants or coral to utilize green light, we can make this analogy: "You ran out of your quality fish food, so instead you feed your fish soda crackers". While not a perfect analogy, it still makes a good point in that you are forcing the specimen whether it be a plant, coral, or fish to survive on less than optimal "nutrition"

Part of my goal in writing this article is also pointing out that those who might have large DIY or other 220 watt LED panels with cool white, green, yellow emitters, etc. along with fans blowing away wasted energy as heat might have an excellent light system, just not an energy efficient system (the vertical farms further prove this).
HOWEVER it is simply a LIE for these same aquarium keepers to say a light system using higher PUR LED lights such as say three AAP AquaRay 30 watt tiles on a similar aquarium can only keep maybe "softies" or require more lights for high light planted aquariums, the FACTS presented here along with the many references prove otherwise.

Using the growing Vertical Farm industry as an example again (Reference #6); they are attempting to get the most light for their energy input, which translates into profit. As someone going into the market to purchase asparagus could care less how the lights look on the asparagus, only that if a light using more middle spectrum light energy and wasting energy as heat is going to product asparagus that cost more!!
Now we as aquarium keepers DO care how our lights look, but with better spectrum control that focuses on "photosynthetic action spectrum" but still allows for full spectrum light we can have a nice balance of efficiency and light (which I have already shown with many high efficiency spectrograms) that presents our corals and plants well.

As well as to naysayers who say one cannot compare a vertical farm to freshwater aquarium plant keeping or the zooanthellic algae found in corals, I say NOT true!
While there are certainly differences including requiring more blues for deeper water specimens, there is still MUCH MORE in common than there are differences!

A common argument by many is that we do not know the specifics of individual plant or coral active photosynthetic light requirements, while this may be partly true, we do know enough.
What is hypocritical of these persons, is that they will use T5 lights designed for planted aquariums or reef aquariums. However the simple fact is these lights are more targeted than a warm white T12 fluorescent light one would purchase at Home Depot, YET I have kept lush planted aquariums back in the 1970s over aquariums with multiples of these shop lights.
So why do these same persons not just go ahead and use these T12 lights? We know the answer as they have already made the point of this article by using a modern aquarium specific T5 over a warm white or cool white T12 shop light!!!!

A silly but practical analogy to such arguments is to warn persons of a low doorway that is only 5 feet tall, then to have someone come and say this warning is not accurate because there are people under 5 feet tall.
While this may be true, the majority of the adult population is well over 5 feet tall, and to write off this warning as not credible just because a small percentage is not of this height is silly. Ditto these arguments of what we know about useful light energy for photosynthesis!

Another argument used to attack the science of PUR is that we can over saturate the plant or coral we are lighting by using targeted wave lengths.
This is nothing more than a "Red Herring" argument (being put out by a disrespectful employee/salesperson of a LED seller that should never have employed such a person).
The problem with this argument is we are no where near any light saturation with man made lighting. Let's apply common sense logic hear when dealing with such ludicrous arguments; if this were so, why is it we cannot go out in a boat on a reef at night with our most powerful metal halide lights and even come close to lighting to the depths and saturation the sun would provide in this same area during daylight hours??
Come on people, when persons such as this young lady come up with such ludicrous red herring arguments and refuse to do her homework and instead make disrespectful personal attacks on persons such as myself, you need to walk away!

One more argument is based more on theory using green algae such as Codium fragile and Ulva pertusa that contain a keto-carotenoid, siphonaxanthin, which absorbs green light with a peak at 535 nm. While these "black" more than green algae can utilize green light well, this does not transfer over to most zooxanthellae living corals or aquatic plants grown by planted freshwater keepers (unless growing blackbeard algae is your goal, which increased green light will certainly help you here!!!).
Reference #7

In the end, most modern LED aquarium light fixtures with only a few very low end exceptions can keep the aquatic life they were designed to, whether planted aquariums or reef aquariums.
What it really no comes down to is efficiency, and a light with a higher PUR (quality of light) is going be more efficient and require less input energy all other aspects being equal.
The interesting fact is most other aspects are NOT equal outside of being able to keep the designated aquatic life as most aquarium LEDs have poor warranties as low as 180 days and even those with better warranties still are only for repair, not full light replacement.
Also MOST all do not have the important IP rating for water resistance/proofing (IP67) resulting in a light an electronic lighting device (LED light) that has a poor warranty and less than optimum resistance to water.<.p>

Reference: Aquarium LED Warranties & Problems; Reef or Planted

As per my biases here, which are obvious. Of course I have a bias, why would I not recommend what my years in the hobby/industry (1968/1978) and research points to be one of the best (note I am not saying THE best either, as there are too many subtleties for which no company makes the best light for everyone)!?

Such "Ad Hominem" attacks accusing me of bias thus discreditig me are akin this example;
PERSON 1: “I think Volvos are fine automobiles.”
PERSON 2: “Of course you’d say that; you’re from Sweden.”
Reference: Logical Fallacies

Just make you put on your thinking cap before you purchase and fall for the hype. Once everything is factored in, including a FULL understanding of PUR & PAR, all the bells & whistles in the world or even a low initial price does not help when you have a failed light in a couple years with a non existent or poor warranty since most aquarium LEDs do not have the optimum waterproof rating of IP67 or higher best suited to placing what is basically an electronic light emitting device over water!
Also use your math thinking cap to realize that not only do these bells and whistles and other gimmicks cost money, but so does the sponsoring of aquarium forums and many other events, this money does not fall out of the sky and comes out of the quality of the product!

Further References/Resources

(1)Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information

Video Version of the first section:

Aquarium Lighting 2018 | Kelvin, PAR, Watts and More

(2)PUR and Reef Aquarium Lighting: What is PUR? By Captive Aquatics
From this above cited article:
"For example: you are given a choice to illuminate your coral with two different lights, each with the same PAR value. However, one of these lights produces energy that peaks at 450nm, or the blue spectrum, and one peaks at 590nm, or the yellow spectrum. For zooxanthellae in your coral's tissue, the light peaking at 450nm will have greater PUR than the light that peaks at 590nm, although the PAR numbers are the same."

(3)https://www.reeftank123.com/lighting/lighting.html

(4)Plant Productivity in Response to LED Lighting

(5)Green Light Drives Leaf Photosynthesis More Efficiently than Red Light in Strong White Light: Revisiting the Enigmatic Question of Why Leaves are Green
Here is some of the THEORY postulated in this article: "If leaves of land plants had black chloroplasts with siphonaxanthin, the leaves could close the so-called ‘green window’ and increase their absorptance"

(6)Physical Properties of Water

(7)Small Polyp Stony Coral and Light Wavelengths

(8)Economic Analysis of Greenhouse Lighting: Light Emitting Diodes vs. High Intensity Discharge Fixtures
An interesting study, but is more of a laboratory type study rather than a real world study (unlike the real world study in the CBS article I quoted earlier). I think this quote is more subjective than real world objective: "HPS lamps are equal to or better than the best LED fixtures because they have a high photon output near 600 nm and a low output of blue, cyan, and green light". As we know for both real world acropora and horticultural use, that blue light energy is still necessary and in fact is an efficient LED light source.

(9)Action spectrum; Wikipedia
From Wikipedia: "An action spectrum is the rate of a physiological activity plotted against wavelength of light. It shows which wavelength of light is most effectively used in a specific chemical reaction. Some reactants are able to use specific wavelengths of light more effectively to complete their reactions. For example, chlorophyll is much more efficient at using the red and blue spectrums of light to carry out photosynthesis. Therefore, the action spectrum graph would show spikes above the wavelengths representing the colors red and blue."

(10)Photosynthetically active radiation (PAR); Wikipedia

NEW, From this website:
(11)Lighting Requirements of a Planted Aquarium- RQE, PFY, PAS, & PUR

(12)Green light: Is it important for plant growth?

(13)Influence of Green, Red and Blue Light Emitting Diodes on Multiprotein Complex Proteins and Photosynthetic Activity under Different Light Intensities in Lettuce Leaves

(14) https://www2.estrellamountain.edu/faculty/farabee/BIOBK/BioBookPS.html
From the above cited .edu article:
"Chlorophyll a absorbs its energy from the Violet-Blue and Reddish orange-Red wavelengths, and little from the intermediate (Green-Yellow-Orange) wavelengths"

(15) Photosynthesis; Wikipedia

(16) PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

Recommended Aquarium Light Product Resources:

*Aquarium LED Light Fixtures; AquaRay
BEWARE of a Parasite Resaler using this information here and elsewhere to undercut professional sellers such as AAP to sell AquaRay LED lighting with an official sounding URL and buying their way up in Google's algorithm!!! The source above is the ONLY true & experienced professional online resaler in North America
*AAP/Aqueon Freshwater Aquarium LED Clip-On Light
*SHO Planted Aquarium and Refugium Lights, Lighting

Forum Thread about the importance of a IP67 Water Proof rating which MOST aquarium LEDs do not have including the popular brands such as Finnex:
Waterproof LEDs (from Everything Aquatic)

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR & Steven Wright
Copyright 2023

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

EcoTech Radion Pro Versus AquaRay LED Lights

A MUST read article/review for any truly serious marine reef keeper looking to get the best LED lights based on science and NOT purchase based on hype and good marketing

Saltwater Aquarium Information; Basic to Advanced

Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization

Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany
There is simply NO BETTER Reef Sea Salt (marine fish too)

Two Little Fishies PhosBan 150 Media Reactor

Nutramar Nori- Seaweed (25 Sheet)

All Natural roasted green seaweed.
AAP/Gamma NutraShots are suitable for complimentary or every day feeding of ALL fish, corals and other invertebrates. Use as frequently as required, ensuring full consumption and waste with the unique method of sticking morsels on glass.

Aquarium Ich; Identification, Treatment, Prevention

For a friendly, Knowledgeable, aquarium forum with in a family atmosphere:
*Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic

Non Stop Air Pump, AC OR DC
This air pump pushes out 4L of air per minute, REGARDLESS of whether you have AC power or NOT

Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps/Filters

noreply@blogger.com (Steven) — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 18:37:00 +0000

Sections Include:

Overview
Simple Calculation Methods
Impeller Design effect on Head Pressure
Effect of Electromagnet design on Pump Head Pressure
Head Pressure Improvement Suggestions

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 11/1/21

Overview

An aspect of any water pump (not air pump), including the water pump aspect of an aquarium canister filter, a significant factor in choosing the correct pump is head pressure.

I will attempt to describe in basic and more advanced terms the important aspect of "mating" a correct water pump to your aquarium or pond application, including the addition of placing a UV Sterilizer in the line up.

The most simple definition of head pressure is that this is the force (or resistance) placed on the "head" (OUTLET) of the pump by gravity. The weight of the water column past the point of the pump outlet and devices in-line past this point constrict or impede flow. A UV Sterilizer, pond "spitter", fountain, waterfall feature, or Fluidized Filter all can affect head pressure.
Do not confuse this with the INPUT side of a pump, any resistance or variances in flow placed on the input side of a pump can damage a pump, especially the popular Mag-drive pumps used today by most aquarium & pond owners (in applications of possible input resistance, a direct drive pump should ONLY be used)

In other words the ability to LIFT water while maintaining current (think torque in a truck that allows the "lifting" or pulling of a load up a hill). This is not simply moving water on a level plain as flow, directly out of the water pump with no pressure placed on the pumps flow.

Another way to think of this is to take a 5 gallon bucket full of water. To simply tip and pour water out of the bucket takes very little energy or "lift" (as an example of head pressure). However, if you were to climb a ladder and pour this same bucket, it would take more energy or lift to do so (again as an example of head pressure).

The majority of aquarium and pond water pumps list their maximum head pressure, so this can be used to determine the end water flow (after head pressure is applied). This may be essential for not only determining the correct pump to purchase, but the correct UV Sterilizer (if desired) to be purchased since flow rate is a MAJOR FACTOR in UVC Sterilization effectiveness.

The listed "GPH or "LPH" is almost always the flow rate directly out of the pump (head) WITHOUT ANY pressure from tubing, devices, filter media, or even water or gravity applied.
An example/analogy would be a car/truck engine: the rated horsepower is what the engine produces at the crank shaft, not the wheels after transmission, vehicle weight, etc is applied. So as a rough analogy; a 200 hp engine is going to work much better in a 2000 lb vehicle than a 10,000 vehicle. This analogy applies to a pumps rated flow rate before head pressure is applied.

"Real World" Canister Filter Flow Rates:

What adds to the confusion canister filter flow rates is the subject of open system versus closed system,
A pump in a sump is an open system, where as a motor/pump as part of a canister filter is a closed system by virtue of the aid of a siphon. This Siphon aid also applies if we were to use a water pump placed in the aquarium to power the canister filter, which I have often done when the motor has failed (this is less expensive than a new filter and often makes for an easier starting filter).
This siphon aid results in much lower affects of distance upon water flow rate between a canister filter and a pump in an open sump.

What is noteworthy is that despite this siphon aid, tests and 1000s of practical use applications show that there is still a drop in flow rate for a closed system canister filter due to friction, tubing size, devices such as UV Sterilizers, CO2 equipment, etc. along with some impact from head pressure.

This sometimes confusing aspect also applies when one product is more factual in publishing flow rates with what a canister filter's closed system pump will deliver in a "real world" application than another.

An example here would be a Sunsun 303B Aquarium Canister Filter which like most related filters provides only the gph (370 gph) immediately at the "head" of the pump, while the Rena Filstar XPL provides both the immediate flow rate out of the pump head (350 gph) and the ACTUAL flow rate (187 gph) out of the filter itself after hoses, filter media, etc are applied.
Based on questions, many will think the SunSun and related filter is substantially stronger, when in reality these filter are nearly equal once head pressure is applied.

Recommended Product Sources:
*Sunsun 303B Aquarium Canister Filter
*Rena Filstar XPL Premium Canister Filter

The implications here are important for mating an effective UV Sterilizer to the correct filter (if a canister filter is to be used to drive water through the UV Sterilizer). As noted previously, few canister filters rate their "true" flow rate. Another example is the Fluval FX5 with a 0 head pressure rating 925 gph, when in reality the typical head pressure flow rate is 600 gph or less after the added resistance in the filter media and tubing are applied (as well as the addition of a UV Sterilizer).

Though it's far from an exact formula, a typical pump/canister filter flow rate with an under tank placement is about 50% to 60% of the published 0 head flow rate.
This is the number you should use for mating your UV Sterilizer.

It's noteworthy that you can increase or decrease the head pressure by the placement of the pump/canister filter and other equipment run off the filter. Keeping the tubing length to a minimum can help decrease friction & head pressure as well as to not use under sized inside dimension tubing.
Impeller, intake, internal flow, and exhaust design will also play a role, as I have seen one canister filter brand barely affected by placement, whereas another is much more affected by filter placement.

Here is an actual test using the Filstar S and timing its flow to fill a container.

Level with the aquarium - 164.53 gph
24" below the aquarium - 153.00 gph
52" below the aquarium - 142.87 gph

These results were with a filter with NO resistance in the filter (all media was removed). The tubing was not cut, shortened or lengthened (as tubing length can also change results by adding more water resistance).

For example you can have an aquarium where the stand or table it is placed on allows for the filter and other equipment to be placed alongside at the same level as the base of the aquarium. This would provide for considerably more head pressure than an installation that has the canister filter and other equipment under the stand/cabinet at say 24 inches.

Another important plumbing note is that it is important that your inflow not be impeded (which is why a pre-filter is important, especially with pond pumps), if any flow restriction is needed to control flow, this should be on the exhaust/outlet side of any pump/filter system.
Usually valves on the output/outlet side only adds more head pressure, while restricting flow on the inlet side will strain a pump/filter (this is based on decades of practical/hands on experience as well as advice from my many mentors over the years).
* An example would be a pump with the ability to pump to 10 feet; there is no difference between running this pump at zero head pressure while restricting the flow rate to that of 5 feet of head pressure versus simply running the pump uphill 5 feet to an aquarium or pond water feature!

This is why most properly designed pumps or filter often have a larger diameter intake than they do exhaust. This allows for less strain on the impeller and better head pressure.

Water Pump Designs;

Most aquarium water pumps are open impeller designs that are greatly affected by head pressure. Propeller pumps, just by their design can handle almost no head pressure and thus are only intended for under water applications with no lifting of water out or into an aquarium.

A few pumps, in particular those designed for ponds or large aquarium systems such as the Rio HF Pump series have closed designs that can handle much more head pressure and are thus better suited for lifting water through multiple devices, water features, or deep sumps.

The bottom line is, regardless of the pump design you choose, know its maximum head pressure so it can be calculated what the actual flow will be with the devices you might add in-line.
For instance, do NOT expect a 1000 gph pump with a maximum head pressure of 10 feet to pump any more than 700 gallons per hours lifting water 3 feet from a pond to a waterfall (other factors including water in-line likely will reduce this even more). It is likly that it will be closer to 600-500 gallons an hour. This also applies to aquarium applications too!

Simple Calculation Methods:

This section will provide simple and reasonably (but not 100% accurate) methods to calculate head pressure on a pump or filter.

Vertical:
This one is the most obvious; Add 1 foot of head pressure for every 1 foot of vertical tubing past the pump or filter to the discharge point in the aquarium or pond. If the pump is submersible, do not count the position in the aquarium or pond, just where the tubing leaves the top level of the water.
Do not count tubing coming from an aquarium to a canister filter as this is gravity assisted and does not add to this calculation.
This major factor of head pressure is a "one way" factor, meaning that if your pump/filter is pumping water to a UV Sterilizer 24 inches under the aquarium water level, you do NOT count the distance down, then back up as "down" is a given based on gravity/siphon. The head pressure is added on the trip back up to the tank/aquarium.

Looking at Vertical Head Pressure another way we can use this accurate formula:
1 vertical foot = 0.433 pounds per square inch (psi)
or conversely
1 psi = 2.31 vertical feet
Look at it this way; if you have a sump, and are pumping the water up, you have atmospheric pressure at the intake and you have atmospheric pressure plus the weight of the water column on the output of the pump. So before even moving anything the pump has to overcome the weight of that column, and that's where all those feet and 2.3ft/psi or 0.433 psi come from.

As an example; A pump with a rated Head Pressure of 7 feet, would have 3.03 psi (7 divided by 2.31)

Another more simplified, albeit not 100% accurate way to figure vertical head pressure loss is to find the rated maximum head pressure of a pump or filter (if published), then deduct the amount of head pressure in feet, inches, centimeters, etc.
As an example; if the maximum head pressure is 6 feet, and you are placing a pump or filter 2 feet below the aquarium or running 2 feet of water line up to a fountain or pond water feature, you can roughly deduct 1/3 off the flow. If 3 feet of water line is used for this same pump/filter, you can roughly deduct 1/2 (50%) of the flow.

Horizontal:
There are not 100% accurate formulas that I have found for measuring horizontal head pressure, other than the very complicated Bernoulli's Equation.
Reference: Bernoulli's Equation

However both in my observations and other reading it is safe to say that horizontal head pressure equals a vertical run of .25 to .5 times its length (in an open system).

Head Pressure Deductions for tubing/piping; Add approximately 1 foot of head pressure for every 90 degree turn in tubing/pipe under 3/4" ID (inside dimensions). Add approximately 1/2 foot of head pressure for larger dimensions for 90 degree turns

Pipe/Tubing Size; Although I do not have firm calculations for tubing/pipe sizes, I can state that smaller diameter tubing or pipes add to head pressure, but this can have variables within itself in calculations including pump outlet size and pump impeller design.

The pump outlet size is a major determining factor that you can calculate; for instance if you have a pump with an outlet designed for 1 inch tubing and you use a reducing part (often supplied with many pumps) for say 1/2 inch, you are literally going to reduce your total head pressure by half.
However if your pump is designed for only 1/2 ID tubing, using this size tubing/pipe is not going to subtract from calculation.
I also should point out that not all pumps are designed with the best outlet sizes for their design (which includes head pressure, impeller design, and more), so these calculations can be off if for instance a pump is designed with a 1 inch outlet when in reality its design is better suited for 3/4 inch outlets.

As a side note, in tests I have conducted with several pumps and 1/2 ID tubing with one foot of head added I have not been able to achieve flow rates beyond 350 gph regardless of open impeller pump sizes, wattages, stated flow rates, etc.

Many aquarium systems are designed to operate with larger diameter tubing/piping on the inlet size and smaller on the outlet.
This reduced friction and allows for better flow rate and less strain on the pump/motor.
This also applies with both closed and open systems which is why pumps such as the Rio HF pumps have a larger diameter inlet than outlet

Further Reference:
Will a Larger Pipe Size Help or Hurt?

The bottom line is this is an aspect I have often seen where clients/customers I have serviced over the years have over looked.
An example was a person who had a 3800 gph pond pump connected to 1 inch tubing, even though the pump was designed for 1.5 tubing/pipe. This reduced the flow immediately by 1/3!!

Device Head Pressure; This next calculation is not one where I can state it is exact, but it still should not be over looked and that is devices added inline to your pump. This can vary from device to device.

Generally speaking a Level 1 UV Sterilizer will add 1-2 feet to head pressure, but this can vary considerably by UV size and design.
As an example a small well designed 8 watt UV would add as little as a foot to head pressure, however some, such as the Coralife 9 Watt Turbo Twist can double this for a similar size UV.
A large UV such as the TMC 110 Watt PRO Pond /Aquarium UV will add as much as 4 feet of head pressure (although less if 2" ID inch pipe is used).

Product Resource:
*Level 1 UV Sterilizers
*TMC 8 Watt Vecton Premium UV Sterilizer
*TMC 110 Watt PRO Pond /Aquarium UV Sterilizer

Devices such a Fluidized Filters can add anywhere from 2 to 4 feet of head pressure (more or less).
Again design is a factor as well as the sand size (smaller requires less head pressure), but again as a generalization consider a minimum 1 foot for every 6 inches of sand fluidized plus the added elbows in the device add to head pressure as noted earlier in section #2.
Product Resource: TMC Premium 3rd Generation Aquarium Fluidized Sand Bed Filter

Know the maximum head pressure of your pump/filter.
If this cannot be found, find a similar pump with the same input wattage and one can generally extrapolate what the maximum head pressure will be.

Then use this number for calculations of flow rate. Using an example is the best way I can explain this:
If, for example your pump/filter has a maximum head pressure of 8 feet and your device (such as a UV Sterilizer) is one foot below the aquarium or pond, you have one 90 degree bend in 3/4" ID tubing/PVC (this would add 1/2 foot head), and then the device itself would add a minimum of one foot head, this equals 2.5 feet of head pressure. Then divide 2.5 feet by 8 feet and gives you .31 or 31%.
So if the rated flow rate of said pump or filter is 500 gph without any head pressure (rated flow), then multiply by .31 or take off 31%, this equals 156 gph. Then deduct 156 from 500 and your actual flow should be 344 gph.

If all else fails in calculations or you have already purchased a pump and simply desire to know the end flow rate, this can be simply calculated quite exactly;

Simply place a container under the outlet of your pump as it empties into the aquarium or pond after passing through all devices and water feature. Then time how long it takes to fill the container in exact measurements.
As an example if a 1 gallon container fills in 10 seconds, that is 6 gallons per minute or 360 gph (this works for metric using liters too).

Admittedly this can be rather difficult for very large flow rate pond pumps that pump say 10 times the previous examples flow rate (3600 gph versus 360 gph), as this would fill 1 gallon in a second. This would required a 5 gallon bucket that might be difficult to position 100% in the water flow discharge; the end result would be 5 gallons in 5 seconds to produce 3600 gph.

Video; Calculating Aquarium Flow Turn Over

Effect of Impeller design on Pump Head Pressure

The design a of a water pumps impeller has a major impact on whether it will produce higher flow rates through a higher flow rate curve.

Here are three common designs and their affect on water head pressure (Please Click on the pictures to enlarge);

The "Propeller" pump impeller design has almost no head pressure and is not intended for any real lifting of water.
However it also is very efficient at moving reasonably high volumes of water with a very smooth rotating current and requires very low electrical wattages to do so.

These are popular in pumps such as the Premium Seio Propeller pumps for under water circulation devices, especially in reef tanks.
Another advantage of this impeller design is that it also has very low start up resistance making it the best design for wave makers that automatically turn pumps on and off to simulate waves.
Product Source: Seio 320, 530 Propeller Water Pumps for Reef Tanks, wave makers

The standard open impeller is the most common design for aquarium and light duty pond water pumps.
While not as good for wave makers, these tend to be the most versatile design which use reasonably low electrical wattage.
Even with these impellers there is a very wide variance in design quality with some having lighter magnets, thin blades or even slight hybrid propeller designs (the Fluval Pumps have impeller designs that are not well suited for adding much head pressure). As pure water pumps/ power heads go, the newer upgraded Rio Plus Pumps are the superior design in this class from what I have used and seen.

Product Resources:
*Rio Aquarium, Fountain Water Pumps
*Aquarium, Fountain, Pond Pumps; Light to Heavy Duty

The "closed impeller" design is generally the most heavy duty water pump impeller.
This design can handle many more in line devices and its head pressure falls off much more slowly towards its maximum head pressure (where it obviously falls off to 0). In fact this is an aspect of pumps that utilize these closed impellers that is difficult to measure in the previous sections calculations (which I made many generalizations).

This design is best for deep sumps, multiple water features/devices, multiple aquarium systems, and simply larger ponds or aquariums.
A good example of a well made closed impeller pump is the Rio HF Pump
Product Resource: Rio HF Pump; Medium to Heavy Duty Water Pumps

Affect of Electromagnet design on Pump Head Pressure

This is rather straight forward, but still occasionally missed by aquarium or especially pond keepers, and that is the design of the electromagnet of most typical "Mag-Drive" pumps used for aquariums and ponds.

One way to think of this in terms of car/truck engines is horse power versus torque.
Many simple pumps (or in the case of high flow pond pumps; "cheap") have the horse power to move a lot of water, but almost no torque to lift water if there are any devices in-line or debris in the water.

The electromagnet that drives a propeller pump is generally very "simple", meaning it does not need to be a very heavy winding that uses much current, thus this design is generally quite efficient as for electrical usage. As an example a Seio 530 Pump uses only 7.5 watts yet moves 530 gph.
This is an excellent pump for what it is designed for, but it has absolutely no torque and therefore should be used for nothing more than underwater current, not running a UV Sterilizer or similar.
Product Resource: Seio 530 Pump

With most standard impeller design and especially closed (or partially closed) impeller design pumps the electromagnet is much heavier and will require more electrical current (wattage). This will obviously increase depending upon the load and flow it is designed for.
Unfortunately not all pumps marketed for applications such as ponds in particular have the heavy duty electromagnet to provide the torque to provide the "lift" necessary for head pressure.
So even if the flow is good or even the impeller design is excellent, often the electromagnet is not, so the end result is often poor head pressure or worse; a shorter life span due to an electromagnet burn out from attempting to run a large pump and impeller design (often in harsh pond conditions) with an inadequate electromagnet design.
A good example is the Via Aqua 4900 pump (although I like many Via Aqua pumps as good, albeit more economy pumps, this is one to be avoided).
Another is the entire Laguna Max-Flo pump line.

Often, but not always, a dead give away is a pump of what may seem "too low of wattage" for a high flow pump. This may be fine a for a propeller pump, but not a pump used in sumps or ponds to lift water, especially with more debris in the water column or devices in-line.

Head Pressure Improvement Suggestions

This most basic suggestion is to adjust the level of lift if head pressure (slow water flow) is a problem.

As an example, say you are using an Internal Filter or Power Head Pump to run a UV Sterilizer (often utilizing intake and return adapters) such as the Vecton 8 Watt UV; I would recommend hanging the UV Sterilizer just below the rim of the aquarium with minimal tubing between the UV Sterilizer and the intake and return connections.
Such a short drop will reduce head pressure considerably versus placing the UV Sterilizer at the base of the aquarium or even lower such as at the base of an aquarium cabinet (which may be too much head pressure for many small Internal Filters and Power Head Pumps).

Product Resources:
*Via Aqua or SunSun Internal Aquarium Power Filters
*Power Head Pump; Efficient JP-023

The above suggestions work for many similar applications, and that is moving any device closer to the aquarium (or pond) thus reducing vertical lift.
Horizontal lift is also and issue, but not nearly as much so as vertical lift; that said reducing any unnecessary horizontal tubing/piping can improve head pressure as well.

Removing/Reducing turns and twist in the piping/tubing can help improve head pressure too.
Having direct flow, even with canister filters using bulkheads can also lower head pressure from my experience

This video provides information as to bulkhead use based on professional experience:

Aquarium Bulkhead Tips and Tricks

If the problem is a waterfall on pond, this may obviously be more difficult to adjust (other than simply changing pumps to one with higher head pressure), but if this can be done or if changes in piping routing can be accomplished, this can help improve flow rates.

References, Additional Reading:

*Pipe Pressure Loss Calculator
This is excellent reading for those with a more technical engineering aptitude.

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For other articles to help readers make well informed decisions about their aquariums or ponds, please consider reading these:

*Aquarium Lighting; The most in depth & researched aquarium lighting article anywhere on the internet.

*UV Sterilization; Sterilizer Information
As with the Aquarium Lighting, this UV Sterilization article is a must read for aquarium or pond keepers.

*Pond Care Information;
Basic but complete information about pond care with links/resources to more in depth pond care help/information.

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Sponge Filtration; Complete Aqurium Sponge Filter Use Information

Premium Aquarium Sponge Filters; from AAP/ATI

Aquarium & Pond Plumbing Parts
Difficult to find or unique parts found nowhere else!
Including: T Water Diverters, Hose Barb Adapters, Couplings, & Reducers, Ball Valves, Swing Check Valves, Return Adapters, Intake Adapters

Economy Submersible Aquarium, Fountain Pumps; SunSun JP-033
A better, UPDATED version of the Via Aqua 302 with SUPERIOR Performance, unlike other pumps sold elsewhere as a replacement

AAP/SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump; replaces Via Aqua 1300
This pump replaces the Via Aqua 1300 and other copies such as by AquaTop as the Premier Power Head Pump for Aquariums, Ponds, Fountains, Wet/Dry Filters. This pump is submersible with Mag drive & ceramic shaft

JTP-12000 High Output/Efficiency Pond Pump, 3170 GPH (12000 LPH)
Unique VERY efficient design; uses variable frequency technology for low power consumption yet large flow rate & high head pressure!
Uses only 100 watts for 3170 gph output

Hanna Instruments Aquarium Testers & Meters; For Freshwater and Saltwater
Hanna instruments is a global manufacturer of analytical instrumentation. Hanna offers multi-parameter bench top portable meters and testers..

AAP Premium FSB Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with optional Oolitic Sand can also maintain essential aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more

*Aquarium Silicone Sealant; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!

For a friendly, Knowledgeable, aquarium forum with in a family atmosphere:
Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic

Fin & Tail Rot in Bettas & other Fish; Treatment and Prevention

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 07 Jun 2011 00:46:00 +0000

Betta Fin Rot; Treatment and Prevention.
This applies to most ALL fish (from cichlids to arowanas), but since I get so many emails and questions pertaining to Betta Fish, I use Bettas as the main example/subject of this article (however this article applies to ALL aquarium fish!!).

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 5/9/23

Let me first start out by noting that "Fin Rot" is a generic term that does not define any one disease, rather there are many causes of this Symptom; of which Fin Rot is better described as a symptom with more than one cause.

Often Fin Rot is brought on by injury (long finned fish in particular) or ammonia/nitrite poisoning, so when one considers either treating or preventing the symptom of Betta Fin Rot, these are first places to start.

As well opportunistic bacteria such as Columnaris, Pseudomonas, or Aeromonas can result in fin rot.
Occasionally opportunistic fungii (Saprolegnia) can also result in fish rot, often taking advantage of fish weakened by other causes.
See a picture further into this article for a picture of a Betta with Columnaris induced fin rot.

Reference: Columnaris in Fish

It is also noteworthy that often the healing process includes a stage of black edges on the fins, THIS IS NOT A DISEASE! Thinking this black edge is fin/tail rot while continuing to treat with medications only makes pathogens more resistant and can degrade the bio filter too.
It should also be pointed out that often if the fin/tail rot has progressed well into the "ray" full regeneration fins simply will NOT happen!

As we treat fish fin & tail rot, we have to remember that we are both fighting infection and promoting healing. Continuing to add antibiotics after infection or danger of infection is gone is not necessary and may actually cause more harm than good (as it is can harm the bio filter bed and lead to bacterial resistance).
If the fin rays are damaged, likely these will not grow back. Even external tissue often never fully returns (think about how many lizards can loose their tails, but it never fully grows back).
After infection or danger of infection has passed as healing progresses, at most, medicated slime coat products such as AAP Quinex should be used.

Finally, especially as per Bettas, genetics and age can lower a fish resistance to disease.
Unfortunately the popularity of bettas (& other fish) has led to the in-breeding of Bettas that has resulted in genetically weak fish. As well often these same less-than-scrupulous breeders will dump older Bettas on the market after their useful breeding life has passed, so a Betta you purchase may not only be genetically weak, but much older than you think! This is especially common of Bettas sold to discounters such as Walmart and chain pet stores.
The end result is a Betta that is predisposed to diseases, including fin rot, and even treatments that may work under normal circumstances will not with these fish.

Before any aquarium/pond fish treatment it is important to know all the steps as often treatment is much more than dumping medication into an aquarium.
Please read this article before ANY aquarium treatment regimen:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

As well as this complete article:
Aquarium Medications, Part 1; Water Changes and more

Betta Fish Care Guide Video

Here are several points, generally in order of importance to check if your Fish (Betta or otherwise) has or continues to contract symptoms of fin rot (please note that many if not most cases of fin/body "rot" are environmental, so fixing/correcting the environment is always important):

Make sure your aquarium/bowl is as close to 0 in ammonia or nitrites at ALL times.
If your water starts at 0 ammonia, but by the end of the week on "water change day" the level is up to 1 ppm, this is unacceptable! Do not allow your ammonia level to exceed .5 ppm
I cannot emphasize how often I have traced back cases of Betta Fin Rot (of of more than one bacterial pathogens) to ammonia levels that are constantly in flux!

Personally I recommend a small Sponge Filter (such as the Hydro Sponge Mini)if at all possible for a healthy bio filter.
Recommended Product Sources:
*High Bio Capacity Sponge Filters only from AAP
*Hydro Sponge Mini, Betta Filter

However I realize that many Bettas are kept in small tanks/bowls where this is not possible, but even then keeping a small amount of Matrix Bio Media (or similar high pore/capacity bio media) in a medicine/prescription bottle with holes punched/drilled in the sides to allow water through the container, while not allowing the Betta to drag his/her delicate fins across any potentially abrasive surfaces.
Please click on this picture to enlarge.

Product Source: AAP Matrix; Ammonia, Nitrates, Removing Bio Medium

Please also read: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

Water Chemistry parameters, other than Nitrogen Cycle (ammonia, nitrites, etc.).
These parameters, along with a low ammonia & nitrites are important for controlling many fish diseases, not just fin rot. In fact if you are dealing with and old and/or genetically weak fish, water parameters will probably help as much as many medication treatments.

This is an area where I think many misunderstandings/mistakes are made along with ammonia spikes.
Often in emails, forums, and my previous aquarium maintenance "Fish Doctor" house calls, I have found that fishkeepers tend to worry about pH and use products attempting to "nail down" "hard" ph numbers while ignoring KH and positive mineral ions.
See also: Aquarium Chemistry; A to Z, Beginner to Advanced

The KH; which are alkaline buffers plus acid buffers are more essential than a specific pH (within reason as obviously a pH of 5 or 9 is not acceptable).
These buffers maintain a stable pH and just as importantly carbonate hardness (KH) maintains a healthy nitrogen cycle as without these carbonate buffers your nitrifying bacteria cannot thrive and you end up with even more dangerous ammonia spikes!
Generally speaking I would recommend a KH of 50-150 ppm (for Bettas) and your pH will be just fine for Bettas as long as it is STABLE at some number between 6.5 to as high as 8.2
Reference: Betta Habitat

Simply put, do not chase pH in an attempt to find the perfect pH. Find an acceptable KH and stick with it, even if the pH is higher than desired as a bouncing pH can cause more disease inducing stress than the actual pH number.

The second part of Aquarium Chemistry (GH, KH, pH) that is also important (if not more so) and also missed by many is the need for positive mineral ions (electrolytes) in the water for a healthy Betta (or other fish) immune system.
Often Betta Keepers will use RO, Drinking, or Distilled Water without adding back these ESSENTIAL elements.
Even when tap water is used, often products such as "pH down" or "7.0" are employed, which when used alone can drive out some essential mineral ions.
Further Reference: Aquarium Chemistry; Positive Mineral Ions, GH

The use of too much incorrectly treated RO water can result in Redox stress, although the flip side is attempting to make up for neglect in adding positive mineral ions too quickly which also can add stress (both are similar to rapid pH changes).

Another chemistry stressor is oxidative stress often from un-treated tap water or a too high/unbalanced Redox reading (best measured via relative hydrogen/rH).
Even long term feeding of a diet too high in energy levels can add oxidative stress to a fish that can eventually make a fish more susceptible to causes of fin rot. Diet is often a two edged sword for Bettas, since many Bettas can be difficult to get to eat lower energy diets. But with other fish, in particular Cichlids where they are generally much easier to acclimate to long term healthier diets, I have found, many will continue to feed diets that slowly add to oxidative stress.
Any of these before mentioned stressors can lead to a Columnaris infection that can then in turn lead to a case of Columnaris induced fin rot (which is often a much more difficult to treat fin rot when compared to a minor cases of simply ragged fins).
Further Reference: Importance of Aquarium Redox

Best is a balanced approach which includes actually maintaining GH (of over 100 ppm) if only to maintain these essential mineral ions (cations) which are depleted quickly even though your GH test kit shows a higher GH.

Using products such as driftwood fragments, Peat, Pillow Moss (AKA Frog Moss) or Atisons Spa for their Indian Almonds leaves to naturally provide a tannin acid buffer along with Alkaline Buffers such as SeaChem Alkaline Buffer is a must for use with RO water and even some tap waters.

Recommended Product Sources:
*Aquarium Driftwood
*Pillow/Frog Moss; Premium Natural Acid Buffer
*SeaChem Quick Acting Acid Buffer
*AAP/Atisons Betta Spa (combines Almond Leaf & calcium Cations)

Then the use of products such as Original AAP Wonder Shells to provide a constant supply of positive mineral ions is very helpful, if not essential in small tanks/bowls to aid in constant replenishment (water changes help too).
I recommend using 1/4 to half the recommended Wonder Shell, at least initial (by breaking in half with a flat head screwdriver), as the main goal is a constant replenishment of mineral cations, not a higher GH

These mineral blocks come in sizes small enough for a fish bowl and can be used with Pillow Moss or even driftwood fragments to act as an acid buffer.
Pillow Moss can be placed in aquarium filter bags (such as by Lees) to prevent it from coming apart if used directly in the aquarium.

Recommended Product Sources:
*Wonder Shells; Mineral Cation Replenisher; Unique Version ONLY sold at AAP (only reliable source for FRESH Wonder Shells which means the full benefit of Redox improving mineral Cations are present)
*Filter Bags
Please read for much more; a must read!!
Aquarium Chemistry, SE Asia Water

Injury is another potential issue with Bettas along with Cory Cats and often more so with larger fish;
With Bettas & Cory Cats, make sure you have smooth decorations (such as marbles). Cory Cats often injure their fins on sharp substrate, so make sure to use "soft" sands for these fish
Also watch for reflections that may make your Betta chase his tail (like a dog!); in fact if your Betta is dealing with symptoms of tail rot, I strongly recommend covering your tank/bowl with a towel or similar for a calming effect that can and does help.

For larger fish, less jagged decorations also apply. With fish such as Arowanas, sometimes a bare bottom tank can prevent the fish from injuring their fins as they might dive to the bottom for food sources.
However, sometimes with large fish, there is little you can do as the constraints of an aquarium can lead to a large fish simply injuring itself on the glass. Again, this is ESPECIALLY common with Arowanas where many cannot even turn around in the width of the aquarium often used to house them.

The picture below shows an Arowana with fin rot most likely caused from constant contact with the glass.

These collisions are not just for larger fish either, Bettas often collide with rocks or other decor with their long flowing tails (especially acting aggressively).
Often minor to moderate fin/tail rot from injuries caused by collisions with the tank side or objects within the aquarium are best treated either with AAP Melafix and Pimafix, directly with AAP Res-Q, OR BETTER if damage is more noteworthy, for more wide spectrum treatment; a Medicated Wonder Shell combined with AAP Sulfaplex (which also improves certain water parameters too to further help with healing).
Section 5 goes into more detail about this treatment toward the end of the section.

Beware of the unfortunately growing in popularity diagnosis (myth) of stress related Betta tail biting as a cause of tail rot.
While this was dismissed decades ago by research and aquarium professionals, this diagnosis has grown wings due to cut & paste blogs and social media where professional aquarium history and mentoring is disregarded.
The problem here with perpetuating this myth is that the real cause of the tail rot is not explored such as injury from decor, aggression (including self aggression), high amounts of decomp (a source of common Aeromonas and Fungal/Saprolegnia infections), & many more possibilities.
The result has been many a Betta keeper ignoring real symptoms and causes of an infection and their Betta suffers or even dies!!
Reference/Further Reading: Common Aquarium Myths; Betta Tail Biting

One of the first actual treatments I would consider for fish up to 6 inches is a Medicated Fish bath that includes salts (Sodium Chloride & Epsom), Methylene Blue, and for moderate to serious fin rot issues, a mix of antibiotics Nitrofurazone and Kanamycin.
However with larger fish, a Fish Bath is often not viable option as they are often more difficult to handle for a bath.
Recommended Product Sources:
*AAP MethyBlu (Premium Methylene Blue)
*Sulfaplex (Sulfathiazole) from AAP
*Methylene Blue Aquarium Bath Treatment; from AAP
*AAP Quinex; Slime Coat Medicated Treatment/Conditioner
*AAP Yellow Powder (Vastly superior Nitrofurazone compared to Furan 2)
*Furan 2 (Nitrofurazone); from AAP
*Kanaplex (Kanamycin); from AAP (please support this free information with your purchase from AAP instead of discounters)

Methylene blue is very helpful for fin rot and ulcerations caused by ammonia or nitrite poisoning.
However Methylene Blue is not as a strong an antibacterial for gram negative bacteria, which is why for ammonia burn combined with fin/tail rot, the best choice would be AAP Nitrofuracin Green (Synergistic Nitrofurazone, Sulfathiazole Sodium, & Methylene Blue Full Spectrum Treatment).
Product Source: AAP Nitrofuracin Green; Synergistic Nitrofurazone, Sulfathiazole Sodium, & Methylene Blue Full Spectrum Treatment

If these baths are ineffective, I would switch to Potassium Permanganate (which is a stronger oxidizer). Potassium Permanganate should be used only with salt and NO antibiotics.
Also be careful about over dosing with Potassium Permanganate as it is a strong oxidizer where you are essentially oxidizing the "fin rot" more than the fish!
Product Source: Jungle Potassium Permanganate, Clear Water

Merbromine, Potassium Permanganate (diluted approximately 50% to 60%), OR Hydrogen Peroxide can also be used as a "swab" on damaged fins or other areas of infection.
Of the three, Merbromin is both the safest AND the most effective when used as a swab. In fact Merbromin is extremely effective against Columnaris and Aeromonas (being an organomercuric disodium salt compound and a fluorescein that is effective on external infections because of its permanence, and lethality to bacteria).
Reference: Columnaris; Treatments, Merbromin

Product Source: AAP Merbromin

When additional medications are called for due to bacterial or fungal infections, using AAP Nitrofuracin Green is a go to product . This product is already re-mixed in a powder that contains Methylene Blue, Salt, and key anti-microbrials such as Sulfa & Nitrofurazone.
While in tank use suggests one capsule per 5 gallons, bath treatment use would be one capsule per 2.5 gallons per 20-30 minute fish bath.

Product Source: *AAP Nitrofuracin Green; Synergistic Nitrofurazone, Sulfathiazole Sodium, & Methylene Blue Full Spectrum Treatment An EXCELLENT ready made Bath treatment!

See this Aquarium Answers post for more about how to perform such a bath or swab:
How to Perform a Fish Bath, Medicated, Salt, more

For more about Hydrogen Peroxide:
Aquarium Medications 3, Hydrogen Peroxide

Next, assuming your Betta or other fish (such as an Oscar or Arowana) actually has a bacterial infection you may have to start an in tank treatment. The most common bacterial causes of fin rot being Columnaris & to a lesser extent Aeromonas Bacterium.
Pseudomonas bacterium may be the cause of mild fin rot infections in which the fish generally only display frayed fins and black fin edges.
Please read these in depth reference articles and consider the suggestions and treatments there in:
*Columnaris in Aquarium Fish
*Aquarium Aeromonas, Septicemia, more

The picture to the right displays a Betta with Columnaris induced Fin Rot, please click to enlarge (though not all fin rot is caused by Columnaris)
- A good/often effective "in tank" treatment would be the before mentioned (for fish baths) Nitrofurazone and Kanamycin combination, especially if Columnaris or Aeromonas is the cause.
  The best choice here would be the synergistic combination of Kanaplex & AAP Yellow Powder (more effective and synergistic formula of Nitrofurazone).
  
  Sometimes just Nitrofurazone is needed, especially if the cause is due to Furunculosis or ammonia poisoning.
  For this the most effective product is AAP "Yellow Powder" which is more pure and effective and only needs treatment every other day versus once per day with the inferior product "Furan 2".
  
  If the cause of the fin/tail rot (or frayed fins) is from an opportunistic fungal/Saprolegnia infection, a good choice for treatment is AAP/SeaChem ParaGuard or AAP Medicated Wonder Shells combined with AAP/SeaChem Sulfaplex/Sulfathiazole.
  
  Product Sources:
  *AAP Yellow Powder (Vastly superior Nitrofurazone compared to Furan 2)
  *AAP/SeaChem Kanplex (please support this free information with purchases from AAP instead of discounter that will not be there for you when you need help)
  
  For Bettas and other smaller long tailed fish such as Guppies, an excellent preventative and treatment of moderate fin/tail infections as well as loss of color and listlessness is AAP Nitrofuracin Green. This product safely blends Synergistic Nitrofurazone, Sulfathiazole Sodium, Methylene Blue, and NaCl.
- Another alternative (which can also be used in baths) is Sulfathiazole.
  This is an excellent broad spectrum alternative to the Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone combination and although generally not as "strong" a treatment, it is occasionally effective when the Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone combination is ineffective.
  
  As well Sulfathiazole is generally less harsh on the fish and is a good choice for generally less difficult cases of fin rot with Pseudomonas as the bacterial cause. Sulfathiazole can also be combined with AAP Super Ich Plus or ParaGuard to make for a bit stronger and more wide spectrum treatment.
  OR as mentioned earlier, combined with AAP Medicated Wonder Shells for arguably one of the most effective and wide spectrum fin/tail rot treatments you can use!
  
  If Aeromonas is the cause, sometimes Doxycycline will be the most effective "in tank" treatment.
  Product Source: AAP Fin & Body Cure (Doxycycline)
  
  Another sometimes recommended product for fin rot is Tetra Fungus Guard (sometimes in combination with Kanamycin). HOWEVER this can be a dangerous mix as Tetra Fungus Guard contains Potassium Dichromate (a strong oxidizer) which if used for open wounds or blood infection (Septicemia) can be toxic, sometimes leading to eventual death. Often a "tell tale" sign of toxic poisoning is color changes to the fish.
  Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 3; Potassium Permanganate & Dichromate
  Product Sources:
  *Sulfaplex (Sulfathiazole) from AAP
  *Maracyn Plus from AAP with Sulfamethazine and Trimethoprim
- If this is a serious infection, most often these are caused by gram negative bacteria and treatment with primarily gram positive antibiotics such as Tetracycline or even Maracyn 2 (to a slightly lessor extent) will often be futile as the vast majority of aquarium bacterial infections are gram negative.
  Columnaris, Pseudomonas, & Aeromonas are ALL Gram negative so if someone suggests a gram positive treatment for your fish' fin rot, it is not going to be effective (unless your fish has much less common gram positive infection)!!
  
  Please read these articles for further reference:
  *Aquarium Medications 2; Maracyn 2, Minocycline Hydrochloride
  *Aquarium Medications Overview; Page One
- A serious infection that has more than one cause (multiple pathogens) might require a very strong in tank (or hospital tank) treatment using multiple medications.
  A Medicated Wonder Shell combined WITH AAP Furan 2 AND Kanaplex is one strong option.
- Another option is AAP PolyGuard which combines malachite green, sulfa, quinacrine, and nitrofurazone (the Medicated Wonder Shell has the benefit of mineral Cations, while the PolyGuard has the benefit of sulfa; DO NOT COMBINE THOUGH!).
- If this is a minor infection, often just the baths and/or a mild in tank treatment may help (assuming correct water parameters as addressed earlier in this article), products such as Medicated Wonder Shells or Pimafix/Melafix can help or even solve the problem.
  Melafix or better, Sulfathiazole can be an excellent first aid after a minor fin injury such as damaging a fin on a rock or even the glass in the case of large fish such as Arowanas.
  A Medicated Wonder Shell, while not a specific fin rot remedy, it still has medications that are good at addressing common secondary infections such as Saprolegnia, and just as importantly, a Medicated Wonder Shell helps with mineral Cations which in turn helps the fish in its own natural defenses in healing from a minor injury.
  When used with Sulfathiazole, a Medicated Wonder Shell becomes an excellent treatment of for fin rot caused by an injury, especially injuries that are the result of collisions with sharp objects or simply the side of the aquarium in the case of large fish.
  
  For Melafix use with Bettas, a pH over 7 and GH over 100 is a must!
  Reference:
  Melafix Myths, Dangers
  
  Product Sources:
  *Medicated Wonder Shells
  *AAP Kanaplex
  *AAP PolyGuard
  *AAP Sulfathiazole
  *AAP Melafix

Sometimes Fin Rot, especially when accompanied by clamped fins is simply symptom of a great problem such as systemic bacterial infection (the fish to the right demonstrates such a possible scenario).
This is often a difficult problem to treat because the actual cause might be elusive.

In such cases, it is even more important ALL water parameters are in check, not just ammonia, pH, etc, but even GH, KH, and even Redox Balance.
Exemplified in this article: Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish
A strong cocktail treatment such as with Naladixic Acic and a Medicated Wonder Shell might be called for in such a situation.
Product Sources:
*AAP Naladixic Acid (Naladin)
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shells

Other Suggested Reading is:
*A Healthy Aquarium, Disease Prevention

Even suggested steps such as the use of a Level 1 UV Sterilizer should be considered if at all possible, although usually not practical for the average Betta owner.
However with larger Betta Breeders or similar multi Betta specimen tanks with dividers, the use of a UV Sterilizer may be practical.
Make sure is you are able to employ a UV Sterilizer that you change your UV bulb every six months for optimum efficiency.

Product Sources:
*True Level 1 UV Sterilizers
*Aquarium UV Bulbs, Lamps, Page 1

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium UV Sterilization
The MOST in depth and accurate article about maintaining level 1 UV Sterilization and how to choose the correct UV Sterilizer

Fish Nutrition
Complete information from fish food building blocks to sources and much more

Hikari Betta Gold Floating Pellets
Includes Astaxanthin, which helps enhance coloration, along with Grape Seed Extract has been shown to reduce the impacts of aging

Ocean Nutrition Feeding Frenzy Feeding Station
Prevents floating food from being caught in the filter or skimmer. Excellent for Bettas kept in larger aquariums with higher surface flow rates

For a friendly, Knowledgeable, aquarium forum with in a family atmosphere:
Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic

*Parasite Retailers

*Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium

Decorative Coral
Aquarium Decorations such as:
*Plastic Aquarium Plants
*Aquarium Driftwood

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

A good compliment to RO water or for any freshwater aquarium to add ESSENTIAL Mineral Ions:
*Wonder Shells, Mineral Block

AngelFish Disease, Virus

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 21:03:00 +0000

AKA Angelfish Aids, Angel Virus

By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 6/12/19

This can be a very virulent and devastating disease.
All exposed angelfish that are not immune will come down with symptoms within 2-4 days of exposure. Sometimes sooner, as “Angelfish Aids” as it is sometime known as, is highly infectious.

I witnessed many angelfish from fish farms in Southeast Asia that came in as carriers of this virulent infection in the 1990s; as a result many large angelfish breeding operations closed and there was a shortage of angelfish in the retail trade.
During this time, I found some small scale angelfish breeders that were able to avoid exposure to this virus and keep me and others supplied with healthy stock

SYMPTOMS:

Clamped fins, excess slime, listless with nose pointed up slightly, usually with the fish on the bottom of the aquarium (unlike Gill Flukes which would have the fish at the surface).
It has an approximately 3 week infectious period. This disease is quite virulent and if an angelfish survives the virus, it may become a carrier for up to six months.

These symptoms can also be caused by other infectious diseases such as Ichthyophonus fungi infections (which are internal), but show similar external symptoms in later stages of the disease.
However one major difference in external symptoms is that the progression of Angelfish Aids/Virus is much quicker than Ichthyophonus, often going from healthy and vibrant to sickly to death in as little as 3-5 days. It is also noteworthy that Ichthyophonus is generally a cold water fish disease

Do not also confuse Angelfish Aids/Virus with internal worm infections such as Nematodes or Annelids as these parasitic worm infections often have a bulge in the lower abdomen near the vent, or worms protruding from the anus. As well the progression is again generally not nearly as quick as Angelfish Virus/Aids. Often internal parasite infections can go on for weeks of slowly more noticeable symptoms.
Parasites such as Gill Flukes cause some similar symptoms, although again the progression of Gill Fluke symptoms is much slower than Angelfish Virus as often gill fluke symptoms slowly appear over a week or more time.
Further Reference: Fish Parasites; Worms, Nematodes, Gill Flukes, Treatment, ID

If you suspect that a quarantined fish has this virus, I recommend that you destroy the fish. The risk of spread is too high to keep a potentially infected fish around.

Here is a video of the fish pictured above in a video format; this fish is showing most of the classic symptoms of Angelfish Virus from which I have seen many times (especially during outbreaks during the 1990s).
I also sent the video link to friend in the professional maintenance business that confirmed this.
The other possible diagnosis is Gill Flukes, however as per the owner of this angelfish, the progression of the disease, nor the fish resting on the tank bottom does not indicate a diagnosis of Gill Flukes.

Video Courtesy DaharkazAngel

MODE OF DISEASE TRANSFER

This is where there is not clear evidence (scientific that is), all I have is my observations as well as speaking with other aquarium maintenance professionals experience and brief non-scientific articles about Angelfish Virus.
I will provide a few observations/theories (please note that these are not proven at the time of writing this article):

Direct transfer in the water column; this seems to be the main mode of transference, which of course quarantine or purchasing of fish from a known good source can help prevent.
As well I have noted that UV Sterilization has helped check the spread of Angelfish Aids to non-immune/exposed fish (which further supports this theory that a Level 1 UV Sterilizer can also improve Redox and thus fish immunity, as a UV cannot prevent the spread via feces or similar)

Transfer via infected water, decorations, or even plants; this is similar to the above and similar preventative measures as above should be taken to prevent this mode of transfer

Transfer via direct contact/feces; I personally do not support this mode of transfer as I have not observed it nor has the few tests to check the spread bear this out, however a few knowledgeable persons I know (or read) have postulated this.

Incubation of the virus; as noted in the symptoms section of this article, it has been espoused that a fish can be a carrier for up to six months.

TREATMENT:

Since immunity is the objective, it is important to keep the angelfish comfortable while giving the immune system time to fight this virus (if it can).
Part of the problem is this virus moves so fast, the fish’ immune system cannot respond quick enough, so optimal conditions is a must.
This includes the little known among aquarists parameter of Redox Balance which may be quite important for immunity during times of viral infection)
Also as per Redox, it is noteworthy that my incidence of Angel Fish Virus deaths was considerably higher in aquariums kept in low pH environments under 6.5. This is likely due to the poor Redox balance in low pH aquariums since acidic environments are oxidizing and allow for little or no Redox Reduction!!

Secondary bacterial and Fungal/Saprolegnia infections are also often issues during Angelfish Aids infections from my experience.

Further Information/Reference:
Understanding the Aquarium Redox Potential for Fish Health

Product Source: EcoSense ORP 15 Redox Meter

Steps:

Removal of any bright lights from the aquarium.
A darkened quarantine tank with a seasoned Sponge Filter is strongly recommended).
Product Source: Premium Aquarium Sponge Filters, only from AAP

A medicated Bath utilizing Methylene Blue is recommended.
Further Information: Fish Bath, Dips, Aquarium Answers

Product Source: Methylene Blue from AAP

Treatment (again preferable in quarantine for Angelfish Virus), may include a “cocktail” of AAP Super Ich or SeaChem ParaGuard and Naladixic Acid (or substitute Naladixic Acid with AAP Spectrogram Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin if unavailable, however Naladixic Acid is the medication of choice for this infection).
The use of an AAP Medicated Wonder Shell instead of the Super Ich/ParaGuard provides even more of a strong cocktail kick from my experience/use.

Product Sources:
*AAP Super Ich Plus, (Strongest Available Ich Treatment)
*SeaChem ParaGuard; Anti fungal, viral, virus treatment; from AAP
*AAP Naladixic Acid (Naladin)
*AAP Spectrogram (Pharmaceutical Grade & Synergistic Combination)
*Nitrofurazone (Furan 2) from AAP
*SeaChem Kanaplex anti bacterial from AAP
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shell

Treat as the medications suggest until symptoms are gone plus 3 days

Partial water changes between each treatment along with strict monitoring of water parameters; ammonia, nitrites, even GH & KH is a must.
Slowly increasing mineral cations in a low pH aquarium may help by improving Redox balance. The use of mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells in 1/4 does is a simple but effective way to perform this.
Product Source: Wonder Shells, Unique AAP Version not sold elsewhere

The addition of a Level 1 or 2 capable UV Sterilizer to the main display tank while the fish are in quarantined is strongly urged to aid in stopping the water borne spread of the virus and improve Redox Balance.
This is a MUST to check the spread of this disease! Even if all your angels died, it is essential to prevent new angles or other fish that might be added later to contract this insidious infection.
I also suggest not replacing your angels for at least two weeks.

Also once added, maintenance of the UV Sterilizer is a must by changing the UV Bulb once every six months with a low pressure level 1 capable UVC bulb (which if you are shopping a discounter like eBay or Amazon, likely you will get a 1/4 output medium pressure UV lamp)!

Product Sources:
*True Level 1 Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilizers
*Level 1 Capable Low Pressure UV Bulbs; American Aquarium

SUMMARY:

Although I have given a method of treatment, please do not let me give the reader too much false hope; as even with strictly following this treatment regimen, chances of success are less than 50% from my experience (many aquarists choose to put the fish down rather than to treat and this is a valid option in my humble opinion as well).
However I have also had success with this treatment regimen (much more so than doing nothing), so if you are willing or able to strictly follow it, you may have success.

Either way, with success, failure, or putting the fish down; prevention of spread to other angelfish (or some other fish as well) should be considered.
Multiple water changes, optimum water parameters, UV Sterilization, and holding off from adding other angelfish for 3-6 months should all be considered.

Further Information:
*Aquarium Cleaning, Water Change Methods, more
*Aquarium Chemistry; For Optimum Water Parameters

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium UV Sterilization
The MOST in depth and accurate article about maintaining level 1 UV Sterilization and how to choose the correct UV Sterilizer

Aquarium Lighting, Freshwater & Saltwater
The largest data base of aquarium lighting information available on the Web, which with Googles latest updates, good information is nearly impossible to find.

Fish Treatments, How They Work, Which to Use and Not to Use

Aquarium Filtration
An article based on decades of experience as to how to best choose your aquarium filters

Fish Nutrition Facts
Complete information from fish food building blocks to sources and much more

AAP Custom Super Premium by Fish Food Guru Clay Neighbors
There is simply NO better prepared fish food; NOT Repashy, New Life Spectrum, or NorthFin, etc.
Best energy levels, best fiber content, best protein optimization, no added supplements.

Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake
The best balanced fish flake food diet for Tetras and other fish for disease prevention

Activated Carbon for Aquarium or Pond Use; Information, Use Table

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:10:00 +0000

Use of Activated Carbon in Freshwater, Marine Aquariums and Ponds

Index:

How Activated Carbon Works

Common Carbon Uses

Lignite Activated Carbon

Chemical Properties

Contaminant Properties

Water Temperature and pH

Exposure Time

Possible Concerns with Carbon Use

List of compounds carbon can or cannot absorb

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/23/20

Carbon is primarily an adsorbent which is a very popular chemical filter media that is often misunderstood as to use in established aquariums and ponds as well.
A healthy established aquarium (fresh or salt) with regular water changes generally needs little carbon (although more carbon is generally needed in marine reef aquariums and less in low pH freshwater aquariums).

Carbon will NOT remove or absorb ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates. Carbon is very useful in removing medications after treatment or even between doses.

Please read the entire article for a good understanding of what activated carbon can or cannot do for your aquarium/pond; including the table of what carbon can and cannot remove as well as the referenced resources

How Activated Carbon Works

Activated carbon has an extremely large surface area per unit weight, which makes AC an extremely efficient absorptive AND adsorptive material.
The activation of carbon and its manufacture create many pores within the particles, and it is the vast areas of the walls within these pores that account for most of the total surface area of the carbon.
In water, activated carbon has a preference for large organic molecules and for substances which are non-polar in nature.

The forces of attraction between the carbon and the absorbed molecules are greater the closer the molecules are in size to the pores. The best absorption takes place when the pores are just large enough to admit the molecules.
Activated carbon, when contacted with water containing organic material, will remove these compounds selectively by a combination of adsorption of the less polar molecules, absorption (filtration) of the larger particles, and partial deposition of colloidal material on the exterior surface of the activated carbon.

As well as absorption, activated carbon uses a process called Adsorption, in fact adsorption is the primary method of molecule removal by carbon, not absorption.
When a material adsorbs something, it means it attaches it by chemical attraction.

The extent of removal of soluble organics by absorption depends on the diffusion of the particle to the external surface of the carbon and diffusion within the porous adsorbent. For colloidal particles, internal diffusion is relatively unimportant because of particle size.
Organic substances that pass through the column consist of hydrophilic organic molecules (substances that are attracted to, and dissolve well within, water) and hydrophobic molecules (repulsed by water).
If the molecule is “polar” (having both a hydrophobic and hydrophilic attributes) which many organic molecules are, the hydrophobic side will be attracted (attached) to the activated carbon.

Adsorption is partially the result of forces of attraction at the surface of a particle that cause soluble organic materials to adhere to the activated carbon. The limited water solubility of many organic substances will affect AC adsorption of these molecules.

Put more simply (I hope): Polar, hydrophobic and hydrophilic interactions are important interactions necessary to understand how activated carbon adsorb the certain molecules.
A Methylene Blue dye molecule is hydrophobic and has a large affinity to the hydrophobic carbon rings of the activated carbon.
The dye prefers to interact with the carbon rather than water.
Where as non chelated metals (such as copper ions) are positively charged (hydrophilic), and the carbon is neutral and hydrophobic. Therefore, the positively charged metal ions prefer to interact with the water, which is hydrophilic. “Like dissolves Like”.

This applies to most metals from the periodic table, including calcium, magnesium, etc., and for this reason most essential minerals are not removed by activated carbon unless chelated but they can loose their positive charge due to oxidative processes of the Redox Potential, which is another reason to replenish these ESSENTIAL positive mineral ions, especially if carbon is used.

This positive/negative ionization is why DOC (organics) will also negatively affect the Aquarium/Pond Redox Balance

Please see this article for further information:
The Aquarium Redox Potential

Common Uses

As already noted healthy aquariums often do not need much activated carbon, however this is a rather ambiguous generalization.
An aquarium keeper needs to consider DOC (dissolved organic compounds/carbon), pH, desired compounds that can or cannot be removed, bio load of the aquarium or pond, and desired environment.
As an example, an Amazon River aquarium will generally need less or no carbon while a heavily fed reef tank will need more.

One reason for little or no carbon in an Amazon River aquarium is these are generally low pH environments that are high oxidizing with little or no Redox Reduction. As noted earlier, positively charged metal ions once they give up their positive charge are easily removed and in a low pH, highly oxidizing aquarium this can be done rapidly. The use of Carbon, especially in larger quantities will only speed this process.

I have made many tests and observations over the years in freshwater and marine aquariums of different environments, as well as ponds as to how much carbon is best to use (if any).
I would use tests of pH/KH and nitrates to help determine need. Although carbon cannot remove nitrates, it can remove most DOC that will eventually end up as nitrates.
So a falling pH/KH and climbing Nitrate level would generally be an indicator more activated carbon or some carbon is needed.

Redox tests if available can sometimes be helpful since activated carbon can act as a Redox Mediator.
See this article for further reference:
Redox as it Pertains to Aquariums; Including Methylene Blue Test

Product Source: Methylene Blue

Simply gauging activated carbon use by tank water color, if the tank is yellowing this can be an indicator of the need for more carbon. However this is not a 100% accurate indicator, nor can activated carbon remove all the causes of yellow water.
The use of carbon if only for a day or even hours after or between medication treatments is another important aspect of carbon use.

In Reef aquariums, the use of carbon (even though less effective in higher pH water) is important in my experience/opinion as part of a regimen that where carbon is but one piece of the aquarium maintenance puzzle that often includes Protein Skimmers (which also remove many similar DOC, but not as quickly after production), water changes, micron filtration, de-nitrification with deep sand beds or products such as Matrix, and use of chemical absorbents such as Purigen.

Product Sources:
*TMC V2 Premium Marine Aquarium Protein Skimmer
*SeaChem Matrix
*SeaChem Purigen premium synthetic absorbent

Carbon can also be used in mixed products such as Ammo Carb, but zeolites are only for freshwater use.
The use of zeolite/carbon mixes is especially useful in areas where municipal tap water contains chloramines (instead of the usual chlorine).
I have also achieved good results with carbon/zeolite blends in ponds which are generally exposed to even more contaminants than aquarium.
Further Information: Municipal Tap Water, Chloramines

Product Source: Ammo-Carb from AAP

A good starting point for activated carbon use (please note that this is a generalization), is one to three teaspoons per ten gallons of water.
One teaspoon of activated carbon is equal to approximately 6 grams in weight measurement. This amount will vary greatly depending upon many other factors that the aquarium or pond keeper can determine.
As well sometimes an aquarium keeper may choose to only use this amount of carbon as part of a clean up procedure (in particular freshwater aquariums) and then discontinue use after a day or two.

Lignite Activated Carbons

The best Premium Activated Carbon is produced from a soft, brownish-black coal (Lignite) in which the alteration of vegetable matter which has proceeded further than in peat but not as far as in bituminous coal.
Lignite based carbon is the best choice for use in aquarium & ponds to remove organic molecules, pesticides and for color removal, due to its large pore size.
Product Source: High Grade Lignite Pelletized Carbon from AAP

The medium to large pore size is important, because the organics in a aquarium or pond environment will clog and render ineffective, the smaller-pored, coconut shell carbons.
6 grams (.21 ounces) of Lignite Activated Carbon has the surface area of a football field, so a little goes a long way in aquarium use in particular.

The other common coal based carbon are the Bituminous coal activated carbons. These are harder with more varied pore sizes.
The graph below compares some of the coal based carbon properties:

Here are a few aspects that impact the effectiveness of activated carbon

Chemical Properties;

The carbon surface may actually interact chemically with organic molecules. As well electrical forces between the activated carbon surface and some contaminants may result in adsorption or ion exchange.
Adsorption, then, is also affected by the chemical nature of the adsorbing surface. The chemical properties of the adsorbing surface are determined to a large extent by the activation process.

Activated Carbon formed from different activation processes will have chemical properties that make them more or less attractive to various contaminants.

Contaminant Properties:

Large dissolved organic compounds/carbon (DOC) are most effectively adsorbed by activated carbon. A general rule of thumb is that similar materials tend to associate. DOC molecules and activated carbon are similar materials; therefore there is a stronger tendency for most organic chemicals to associate with the activated carbon in the filter rather than staying dissolved in a dissimilar material like water.
Generally, the least soluble organic molecules (such as large complex amino acids or fatty acids) are most strongly adsorbed. Often the smaller organic molecules (such as sugars) are held the tightest, because they fit into the smaller pores.

It is also noteworthy that although larger complex organic molecules (often nitrogen based) are more readily absorbed, these molecules are also not held as tightly and re-leased under certain conditions which is why carbon should not be relied on for the sole form of organic contaminant removal.
Other methods such as Purigen, de-nitrifying filters, water changes, Protein Skimmers (marine aquariums), micron filters, UV Sterilizers, etc. should be employed as part of the mix.

Concentration of organic contaminants can affect the adsorption process. A given activated carbon may be more effective than another type of activated carbon material at low contaminant concentrations, but may be less effective than the other carbon material at high concentrations.

Water Temperature and pH;

Adsorption usually increases as pH and temperature decrease. Chemical reactions and forms of chemicals are closely related to pH and temperature. When pH and temperature are lowered many organic chemicals are in a more absorbable form (this is noteworthy for marine/saltwater use and why Protein Skimmers are also important as these devices will remove DOC as well, although not immediately as carbon can)

Exposure Time;

The process of adsorption is also influenced by the length of time that the carbon is in contact with the contaminant in the water. Increasing contact time allows greater amounts of contaminant to be removed from the water. Contact is improved by increasing the amount of activated carbon in the filter and reducing the flow rate of water through the filter.

There is controversy in what essential minerals carbon will absorb or what activated carbon will or will not absorb in general. I will state based on my own experience and scientific evidence that carbon has many uses in aquariums/ponds but is also over used or incorrectly recommended. Although I use little carbon in my established healthy aquariums and ponds, I disagree with those that state it should not or rarely be used (based on some false assumptions of what carbon removes or adds to water).
On the flip side I also disagree with those that make carbon the answer for water quality issues such as nitrates for which carbon does not remove.
Activated Carbon is very useful for removing most medications after or between treatments (this is where I strongly recommend its use), although even here, carbon does not remove most copper formulations effectively.

Possible Concerns with Carbon Use

*Activated carbon can foster the growth of bacteria by concentrating other organics (such as DOC) on its surface.
Although I have not performed controlled tests to confirm this, I have made many observations over the years that increased use of carbon has coincided with increased incidence of bacterial infections such as Aeromonas, especially in lower pH Amazon River & SE Asia water aquarium environments since Redox is also generally less favorable and the removal of tannins by carbon from products such as Indian Almond Leaf Extracts allows these bacteria to thrive.
The fact that activated carbon removes oxygen, further increases the risk of an opportunistic Aeromonas Bacterial outbreak since these bacterium are anaerobic.

Further References:
*Aeromonas, Septicemia, Vibrio Infections in Aquarium Fish
*Aquarium Chemistry; Amazon River Water Environments

Product Source: Atison's Spa, Indian Almond Leaf Extracts, lowers Aeromonas

Use in planted freshwater aquariums:

This is an area of some controversy of which some information is based on facts, some information is not, with some reasonable questions in between.

The main controversy I will address for now as to carbon use in planted freshwater aquariums is the removal of trace minerals. I read some experiments at “the Krib”, as well I have made observations and tests (as well as research) over the years myself.
The main testable point is that most metals such as Iron (which is important for plants) are NOT absorbed carbon with an important and noteworthy exception; and that is the use of chelation.
EDTA (which is an organic molecule) is used to chelate many metals such as iron to make it more readily available for fertilizers or other uses, and since activated carbon is especially effective in removing organic carbon based molecules, these chelated metals are then removed.

Any aquatic plant fertilizers that contain chelated metals will be bound to the carbon pores, and as result their concentration into the water column will get lower with the use of activated carbon.
If the carbon is left in the aquarium for a period of time, the chelated compounds in aquariums slowly decay and release their metals.

However not all trace elements are chelated, for instance SeaChem Flourish uses water soluble non-chelated iron, as well mineral blocks such as Wonder Shells are non chelated and any possible absorbed trace minerals are rapidly replaced by the Wonder Shell (which although mineral depletion by activated carbon is low, the use of Wonder Shells in aquariums/ponds utilizing activated carbon insures adequate minerals)

Product Sources:
*SeaChem Flourish Plant Fertilizer
*Wonder Shells; Unique Version ONLY available at AAP

The use of Activated Carbon with Marine Protein Skimmers:

Although conclusive tests are forth coming, there is evidence that the use of activated carbon can limit the amount of foam refraction generated by a marine protein skimmer. This is likely due to the adsorption of Foaming Agents (MBAS) by activated carbon.
This presents a problem for many reef keepers since both carbon and protein skimmers are useful aspects of a complete marine filtration system.
My suggestion is to limit carbon use in cleaning filters run during certain times of the day (or week), especially after heavy feeding.

The re-use of carbon after removal during disease treatment:

Carbon can trap many pathogens, so soaking in saltwater (specific gravity of 1.025) while out of the aquarium can prevent re-infection once added back into the aquarium.
HOWEVER, this is far from 100% sure, especially with viruses, and some bacteria and certain fungi (generally the saltwater soak is very effective to kill parasites).

Soaking in bleach/chlorine or any other Redox oxidizer is not a viable alternative since (as per the table below), carbon is very good at removing these products. What will happen is these will cancel each other out; either the amount of bleach or similar used will exhaust the carbons capability or the carbon will remove all the oxidizer this not allowing any disinfection.

*A final concern with activated carbon is the possible release of contaminants after they have been initially adsorbed. This action is known as desorption or dumping. This could occur if other ambient water quality characteristics change.
Although at the time of writing this article, I have not discovered the exact mechanism for causing this, but I do know that a tank that is not stable in its general chemistry, whether pH or Redox is a candidate for this possible problem of carbon use.

Here is a list of compounds carbon can or cannot absorb.

Please note that some compounds may be desirable to remove depending upon your tank requirements while the same compound may not be desirable in another aquarium environment.
A good example would be tannins (which carbon removes reasonably well); in a soft water environment an aquarist would likely want to restrict the use of Activated Carbon, while someone keeping “dirty” goldfish may find the use of carbon on a regular basis (in higher quantities) a necessity.

WHAT CARBON CAN ABSORB:
Excellent Absorption:	Fair/Good Absorption	*WHAT CARBON CANNOT* ABSORB (or absorption is poor)**
Amyl Acetate Amyl Alcohol Benzene Bleach Butyl Alcohol Butyl Acetate Calcium Hypochlorite ORGANIC carbon Chloral Chloroform Chlorine Chlorobenzene Chlorophenol Cresol Defoliants Diesel Fuel Dissolved Organic Compounds Dyes (such as Methylene Blue or Acriflavin) Ethyl Acetate Ethyl Acrylate Foaming Agents (MBAS) Gasoline Glycols Herbicides Hydrogen Peroxide Hypochlorous Acid Insecticides Iodine Isopropyl Acetate Isopropyl Alcohol Ketones Methyl Bromide Methyl Ethyl Ketone Naptha Nitrobenzene Nitroluene Odors (general) Oil - dissolved Organic Esters Oxalic Acid Oxygen PCB's Pesticides Phenol Sodium Hypochlorite Toluidine Trichlorethylene Turpentine *Xylene	Acetaldehde Acetone Alcohols Antifreeze Chloramine (only the Chlorine, zeolite needed for remaining ammonia) Calcium Hypochlorite Chlorophyll Citric Acid EDTA (an organic chelator of metals such as iron) Ethyl Alcohol Ethyl Amine Ethyl Chloride Etyl Ether Hydrogen Sulfide Lactic Acid Mercaptans Methyl Acetate Methyl Alcohol Methyl Chloride Organic Acids Organic Salts Ozone Potassium Permanganate Propioc Acid Propyl Acetate Propyl Alcohol Propyl Chloride Radon Solvents Sulphonated Oils Tannins, such as: Indian Almond Leaf Extract (Atison's Spa) Tar Emulsion Tartaric Acid Xanthophyll Cyanide Copper (this in part depends upon type of copper compound and chelated copper is not readily removed by carbon), also availability of oxygen and a lower pH can improve basic copper sulfate adsorption by carbon. Basically carbon should not be relied for total copper removal, especially in Marine aquariums using chelated carbon *Free, low molecular weight hormones.	Alkalinity Calcium Carbon Dioxide Fluoride, Formaldehyde Hardness. Lime Magnesium Manganese Microbes, Molybdenum Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia Phosphates Selenium Sodium, Lead, Iron and other heavy metals are removed only by adding a chelation process using EDTA, an organic carbon molecule (then these metals can be readily removed) *Protein bound hormones are generally NOT removed by carbon

SUMMARY;

It is noteworthy that not all carbons are the same, but hopefully the reader will understand what a quality activated carbon can and cannot do.

There are many excellent carbons available on the market, as well as many very poor carbons/charcoals.
My advice is if the carbon you are currently using is not matching the results expected by the above chart, then switch.
As well, do not feel stuck using manufacturer pre-filled carbon bags that are commonly sold for many filters. My experience has been that the majority of these are of poor quality, and both results and cost savings can be achieved by purchasing a separate carbon and refillable bag to use in your filter.

Product Examples:
High Grade Lignite Pelletized Carbon from AAP
Lees Filter Bags

References

*The Krib; Activated Carbon
*Copper & Cyanide Removal by Carbon

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium Lighting, Information
The largest data base of aquarium lighting information available on the Web, which with Googles latest updates, good information is nearly impossible to find.

Fish Treatments, How They Work, Which to Use and Not to Use

NilocG Aquatics; Planted Tank Liquid Ferts from AAP
NilocG Aquatics PROFESSIONAL GRADE planted aquarium liquid fertilizer products. Products designed for persons who want to have a more advanced planted aquarium without the hassles need for a degree in science to do so. Meant for use in "The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits" method of planted aquarium aquascaping.

Eheim Everyday Automatic Feeder
The EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder is a compact fish feeder with actively aerated feeding chamber.
This unit includes a clamp for fixing to open top aquariums or terrariums. Easy to understand programming, double dosage of food is programmable

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

A good compliment to RO water or for any freshwater aquarium to add ESSENTIAL Mineral Ions:
*Wonder Shells, Mineral Block

Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic
An excellent place to go for information, help or simply to share your love of the aquarium and pond hobby and help others. A superior place for information over such places as Yahoo Answers

UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output medium pressure bulbs commonly sold at Amazon or eBay

Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium

Melafix Dangers; The Known Facts

Celestial Pearl Danio, Galaxy Rasboras

AAP/SeaChem Tidal High Capacity Aquarium HOB Power Filter (By Sicce)
Premium "Hang On-the Back" Filtration Systems; Including skimmer feature & high capacity filter basket

Spirulina 20 Fish Food Flake
The best balanced fish flake food diet for Tetras and other fish for disease prevention

Fish Baths, Dips, Swabs; Including Coral; For Disease, Ammonia, Treatment

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:22:00 +0000

Fish Baths/Dips for supplemental (& even primary) treatment of Bacterial infections, wounds, sores, Fungus (Saprolegnia), parasite infestations & more

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Sections:
Basic Ingredients What is a Bath or Dip used For What is Better; A Bath or Dip Performing a Fish Bath Important Bath Tips Bath Risks Medications in Baths Alternatives to Methylene Blue	Potassium Permanganate Cautions Dips, Swabs, etc. Coral, Anemone Dip Helpful Conversions (metric to SAE, etc.) Bath Video Feedback Article/e-book Download

Updated 11/26/24

Although the Article; "Aquarium Disease Prevention" has a relatively in depth explanation of how to perform (& why) a fish bath or dip, this Aquarium Answers post/article will hopefully expand more on this subject for a better understanding. I am also including input from members of Everything Aquatic Forum to further assist in this article.

References:
*Principles of Aquarium disease Prevention and Treatment
*Everything Aquatic; Aquarium Forum Board
*Everything Aquatic; Performing a Medicated Fish Bath

The use of Swabs and Dips is also discussed in this article.

Why a Fish Bath (both positives and negatives)?

Provides an environment to use products that might otherwise harm your display aquarium, in particular the nitrogen cycle.
While Methylene Blue can be used in the main aquarium, it is generally more effective in concentrations best served in a bath without the risk to the bio filter.

Allow for stronger short term exposure to medications, which can be important for some more delicate fish

Allow for use of osmoregulators such as sodium chlorides or magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salt) in dosages that may not necessarily be therapeutic but definitely allow for the pulling of fluids through the body of the fish which can help with cleansing of toxins and help with treatment of Swim Bladder issues, Dropsy, or similar.
These concentrations that are more effective of sodium chloride/magnesium sulfate generally are not safe for use in the main aquarium for long term exposure.

As for magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), while I have not specifically know the mechanism, what I do know from experimenting around is that it works well in a bath, but is actually detrimental “in-tank” for freshwater.
My guess is magnesium is more of a controlling osmoregulator like sodium chloride can be as well, not something the fish need much of.
As an analogy, think of how our atmosphere is mostly nitrogen, yet it is oxygen that we utilize. Ditto magnesium sulfate in water, especially marine aquariums, but over loading in freshwater long term seems to have a negative affect, while a short term bath of magnesium sulfate seems to help draw fluids though the fish in a therapeutic way

For genetically weak or old fish, a bath can provide for a treatment while not affecting the main aquarium environment, which most medications used in tank have a negative affect on the aquarium environment.
As well the fish bath often makes a good compliment to in tank treatments, especially when using a more mild treatment such as AAP/API Pimafix.

A negative for a fish bath, especially for large fish is the potential stress & injury of netting and moving a fish back & forth.
For me this was not too much of a problem, but if you are nervous, this can become more of an issue.

A way to mitigate this is by having a small breeder box as later discussed in this article.
Another way for larger fish is to house your large fish in a separate large hospital tank that becomes their bath for 30 minutes once or twice per day, then is flushed with water from the display tank after the bath, while the display tank gets fresh water.

The basic ingredients of a bath include:

Salt (Sodium Chloride)
Further Reference: Salt Use in Freshwater Aquariums
Methylene Blue (standard 2.303% solution or premium AAP MethyBlu 5% solution).
Epson Salts (Magnesium sulfate) in small amounts can be used as well for added aid in internal issues
Further medications can be added (this will be addressed later in this article)

What is a Bath or Dip used for in the Treatment of Fish Diseases or Similar?

Treatment of sores or injuries, especially open sores that expose deeper tissues (often minor injuries do not require a bath/dip).
The Methylene Blue will stain tissues and aid in prevention of bacterial growth (it is normal to stain areas of the fish that has lost their natural slime coat), as well Methylene Blue will increase available oxygen to tissues. Swabbing (or dripping) the wound, sore, or red streaks (caused by Septicemia) with Methylene Blue prior to a bath often increases the effectiveness.

Recommended Product Sources:
*AAP MethyBlu Premium Concentrated Methylene Blue (recommended)
*Standard Methylene Blue from AAP

As an Aid to Ich, Velvet and similar parasite infections.
Although a bath or dip is not an effective cure for in tank Ich infestations or similar, a bath/dip can increase survivability in severe cases as the bath/dip provides critically needed oxygen to gills/tissues (via the Methylene Blue), as well Methylene Blue will often stain the parasite on the fish and weaken it severely (keep in mind that Methylene Blue was used as an early Malaria treatment, and that Malaria is a protozoan as is Ich and Velvet).
The use of baths/dips with sensitive fish such as Clown Loaches is often a must in my experience for moderate to severe Ich (Ichthyophthirius) infestations.

Further References:
*Treatment and identification of Freshwater and Marine Ich, White Spot Disease
*Treatment and Identification of Freshwater Velvet, Costia

As an aid to bacterial infections (such as Columnaris) or Saprolegnia (Fungus).
As with wounds/sores, swabbing or dripping the Methylene Blue directly on areas of infection greatly increases effectiveness.

Further References:
*Treatment and Identification Columnaris, Saddleback, Cotton Wool Disease
*Treatment, Lifecycle, and Identification of Saprolegnia/Fungus in Fish

As an aid to and for treatment of osmoregulation problems in fish such as Bloating and even Dropsy.

Further References:
*Do Fish Drink, Healthy Fish Osmotic Function
*Prevention and possible treatment of Dropsy in Fish

As an aid to ammonia/nitrite poisoning, often as the result of poor handling/shipping and over crowded conditions prior to an aquarist obtaining a new fish.
The Methylene Blue will be absorbed into the blood, kidneys, and liver where is can help lessen the effect of ammonia and nitrite poisoning.

Further Reference: Aquarium Medications Part 3; Methylene Blue & How it Works

What is Better; a Bath or Dip?

This is a subjective question that can not be simply answered however I will give some generalizations.
A properly performed bath is much less stressful to the fish than most disease that they are being treated for. The most stressful part is capture of the fish which can be minimized with a breeder/holding net or proper netting.
In fact I have seen fish bounce back from baths within a hour, especially when the use of stress reducing and medicated water conditioner is used directly on the fish and in the water as the fish is returned to the aquarium. The best product for this by far is the professional water conditioner AAP Res-Q.

Resource: AAP Res-Cue/Res-Q

So with this in mind a mild to moderate infection or for many quarantine purposes the bath is the better choice.
As well almost any injury is better treated with a bath since stress is a major factor with an injury.
I often use baths over in tank treatments where “tank wide infections” are not present so as to not interfere with the biology of the aquatic environment in any way.

A dip is often a choice of last resort for seriously ill fish, especially with Dropsy, bladder infections or other infections causing osmoregulation problems.
One exception for healthy fish where I often choose a dip over a bath is for the prevention of Ich, Cryptocaryon, Oodinium and similar parasite infections.
I have not seen a healthy fish ever succumb from a dip when used for this purpose and a dip is nearly 100% effective for such prevention in marine fish, however less effective and more harsh for freshwater fish (provided there is not latent infection already in the aquarium).

A dip is NOT a good choice for seriously injured fish or fish that have considerable open tissue due to infection, as the dip will often make this worse by extracting necessary body fluids that are already being lost. For these fish, the bath is the vastly better choice.

Performing a Fish Bath

(expanded from Aquarium Disease Prevention);

A bath can be performed in as little as 1 quart of water, in a 1 gallon Rubbermaid (or similar) container or a small BARE tank. Generally the larger the better since it is easier to maintain dissolved oxygen levels and figure out the amounts of medication (if used) in larger containers
If I use a 1 quart container, I would use 1/4 teaspoon of salt and several drops of MB (I also recommend rubber gloves and old towels, rags, paper, etc spread around since Methylene Blue is messy and stains).

The schedule is generally 20-30 minutes at least once per day, twice if the fish will tolerate this frequency.

For freshwater I would add Methylene Blue at double normal tank treatment strength (as per bottle instructions) then add salt (NaCl) at about 1 teaspoon per gallon. With the Premium AAP 5% solution "MethyBlu" (recommended), this means 2 drops per gallon
Epsom Salts can also be used too at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon in baths used for treatment (some use higher amounts, but I find this works well when combined with sodium chlorides salt). Epsom Salt is especially useful in cases of bloat, water retention, swim bladder issues, etc. This salt should be pre-dissolved prior to introduction of fish to prevent burning of gills.

The salt (regular salt; NaCl) can be increased for difficult treatments (such as Columnaris), especially with salt tolerant fish such as livebearers. Sodium Chloride (NaCl salt) is not only helpful for many external bacterial issues, it also acts to pull fluids through the fish' body often helping with internal osmorgulation issues.
It is best to slowly add dissolved salt to increase levels gently in salt amounts over 3 teaspoons per gallon, even in salt tolerant fish.
Generally for most fish (even catfish based on University of Florida studies) 2 teaspoons per gallon can be tolerated for up to 30 minutes (many fish can tolerate 4 teaspoons per gallon), although if unsure about your fish’ tolerance, gradually add the salt via a dissolved solution during the first half of the bath.

Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) are useful for baths (I do not recommend even short term use in the main display aquarium) in either fresh or saltwater where internal issues are suspected, including constipation and lack of appetite.
This said, Epsom salts are generally not enough alone except for very specific internal bloating issues and other more specific medications will need to be added to the bath (read further in this article, including references/resources).

IMPORTANT TIPS; Please Read Before Performing a Fish Bath:

I recommend keeping the “bath” container in a location that does not allow the temperature to drop more than 2 degrees during this time so as to prevent shock when transferred back to the holding/display tank.

If at all possible I recommend keeping the fish that are being given baths in a Breeder Net Box (see picture) or similar in the tank or in another filtered bare tank so as to make capture easy and less stressful for both you and the fish.
If too much stress is incurred capturing the fish for each bath, this can negate the positive effects of the bath.
Product Source: Lees Breeder Net/Box for Sick Fish, Bath Holding

Netting the fish can be stressful to both the fish keeper and the fish, so the above suggested holding tank container can help here.
If possible, simply cupping your hands or using a ladle will lower risks of fin damage and loss of slime coat via net capture.

That said, remaining calm yourself goes a long ways in preventing stress & injury to the fish to be given a bath, dip or swab. Often injuries only occur to the fish because the fish keeper is nervous and this results in rough handling. I personally have netted many fish over the years for baths, dips or swabs with no injury whatsoever.

ALL baths should start with water from the fish’ holding tank's water, so as to avoid pH and temperature shock.
As well, ALL baths should have fresh Methylene Blue, salt & other medications if used, otherwise many medications can and will degrade and be less effective or even toxic in some cases.
The bottom line here is to throw away all bath water after completion of each and every bath, NEVER reuse bath water from a previous bath, even if just used hours earlier!!!

HOWEVER, do not worry if a tiny amount of Methylene Blue or other chemicals/medications is added to the main aquarium when transferring the fish back after the bath.

Floating pre-made large fish bags of the dip water (with salt, do not add medications until immediate use).
While this is not essential, this can make the bath process easier as everything is ready to go when you may be in a hurry. As well this allows for the correct water temperature.

Although most bottles of Methylene Blue do not come with a dropper any more (the premium AAP MethyBlu comes with a dropper style bottle), I recommend finding a dropper that will fit the bottle or use an eye dropper so as to limit MB stains/mess.

Since mineral cations can help with stress (in part due to improved Redox Balance), I recommend to use a product such as the Wonder Shells in the bath water (also dip water too).
You can break off a piece of Wonder Shell for this bath, then leaving this piece in the bath for the duration of the bath to add these mineral ions.
Product Source: AAP Wonder Shell; Fresh, NOT clearance (BEWARE of Copycats from Amazon and Aquarium Co-op, INSIST on the genuine fresh Wonder shells only at AAP)

Be careful of too many or too large a fish in too small a volume of water, as dissolved oxygen can be quickly depleted. A fish "starving" for oxygen defeats any benefits a bath might provide.
Consider an air stone in the bath water to address this potential issue.

I generally do not recommend baths for larger fish (unless you are sure of your fish handling abilities), such as over 6-8 inches (15- 20 cm.), as often handling of these fish can be difficult and cause quite a mess.
As well larger fish can be more easily injured due to the difficulty in handling them.
However, if a larger fish is in poor condition and question arises that the fish is already in a severely weakened condition, a bath or better, a dip may be attempted (see below for more about “dips”).
As noted earlier in this article, a way around this is to house your large fish in a separate large hospital tank that becomes their bath for 30 minutes once or twice per day, then is flushed with water from the display tank after the bath, while the display tank gets fresh water.

For saltwater fish, dilute the saltwater to 1.015 or even 1.009 (specific gravity), making sure your pH stays up by adding any buffers necessary before adding fish (1.009 is a must for Cryptocaryon prevention/removal).
The purpose of adding or lowering salt (whether SW or FW) is to change osmotic pressure which is an aid to parasite removal as most parasites such as Ich or Cryptocaryon cannot tolerate these changes as well as fish.

With freshwater fish, AAP/SeaChem StressGuard or AAP Res-Q are good follow ups to a bath, dip or swab.
The professional choice, AAP Res-Q, is preferable over Stress Coat as it tend to be more attracted to the fish epidermis when squirted directly on the fish when releasing back into the aquarium and adds Sulfa & quinine hydrochloride to aid in healing.

Product Resource: AAP Res-Cue/Res Q

Finally, Do not add bath water back to your aquarium (a small inadvertent amount when adding back fish is not going to to create issues with your aquarium water).
However continued addition of all Methylene Blue & other chemicals, salt, medications, etc. can destroy your nitrifying bio filter bed or cause other water quality issues.

Please see the video at the end of this article for more help in understanding the process of a fish bath

Further Bath Tips from Everything Aquatic Member Fishfever

Always spread out an absorbent mat around the tank before doing anything to catch drips (and especially Methylene Blue, ***IT REALLY STAINS IF IT GETS ON ANYTHING ***). Gloves are good too to avoid the blue finger syndrome!

Premixing the salt with tank water in a large container saves time if you plan to give a number of baths. You could probably premix the MB also (not sure) but would not mix Potassium Permanganate since it reacts with tank water (I think it removes dissolved organic compounds in the tank water).
I use an eyedropper to get the proper fraction of a teaspoon to gallon ratio for the Potassium Permanganate in the small bath container or double bag (it's not a perfect ratio but it's consistent).
Product Source: Potassium Permanganate from AAP

Further Information: Aquarium Medications 3; Potassium Permanganate

If possible, give your bath in a container or double bags within the tank.
This way the bath stays heated to the same temperature as the tank and if the fish jump they just jump into the tank. I fill my bath container or double bags just enough so they still float and the buoyancy pushes the container up against the rim and top cover, keeping it from trying to flip over.
If you overfill the bath container will sink. Remember to float the bath container or bags in your tank long enough to equalize temperatures.

Since I have to give twice daily baths, I leave the fish in a small breeder net (about 6"x6"x4") overnight after the evening bath which I do just before I shut the tank light out and go to bed. This saves me from having to catch the fish for the morning bath, i.e. only have to catch her once a day for the evening bath.

Bath/Dip Risks

Obviously there are risks in the performance of a fish bath or dip, however in fish less than 6 inches these can often be minimized as per previously suggested tips.
For minor injuries or infections sometimes the risk of stress is simply not worth the bath, HOWEVER in my experience with literally 100s (if not 1000s) of baths/dips the risks for most applications is far less than the alternative.
Even with 'extreme' freshwater dips used for saltwater fish, whereby the fish will react as if they are dead, the fish will generally “snap out of it” in a matter of hours and will be better than before this dip.
Most baths are much less stressful than the previous example, so any observed stress will pass quickly if the bath is performed correctly.

As well in many cases such as sores or diseases, the use of a bath will allow for a more mild in tank treatment which is quite bluntly better for long term aquarium health than dumping in “tons” of harsh medications (especially when a hospital/treatment tank is not available).
The bottom line is to not let the bath/dip stress you more than the fish, as this procedure can often mean the difference of a successful treatment and an unsuccessful treatment especially in severe cases of Ich (this is especially true with sensitive fish such as Loaches) or in often difficult to treat bacterial infections such as Columnaris.

Further References:
*Aquarium Ich in Freshwater or Saltwater
*Columnaris & Fungus in Aquariums

Medications in Baths;

Another option to baths is IN ADDITION to the salts and Methylene Blue, but NOT combined with Potassium Permanganate, is you can safely add many antibiotics at double normal "in tank" recommended dose for the 30 minute bath. This can both increase the effectiveness of the bath and the antibiotic added.

Before I go on here, it is noteworthy that with any aquarium/pond fish treatment it is important to know all the steps as often treatment is much more than a medicated fish bath or dumping medication into an aquarium.
Please read this article before ANY aquarium treatment regimen:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Medications that generally are good choices for baths are;

AAP Nitrofuracin Green; Synergistic Nitrofurazone, Sulfathiazole Sodium, & Methylene Blue Full Spectrum Treatment
Probably the FIRST CHOICE for a fish baths since this blend is wide spectrum bacterial, fungal, and even anti-parasitic. As well this product already includes Methylene Blue so this negates the use of Methylene Blue in your fish bath wif this medication is used. Use this at double aquarium/tank dose.
Metronidazole
A good choice for intestinal infections since it is not readily absorbed through the intestines.
AAP "Yellow Powder"; Premium Nitrofurazone
For Aeromonas, Saprolegnia, Furunculosis, & serious cases of Columnaris.
AAP Kanaplex (Kanamycin)
OR Minocyline for Columnaris (mild cases when used by itself), Dropsy, or PART of a treatment for Pop-Eye.
AAP Sulfaplex; Sulfathiazole; a good option (not combined with other antibiotics/anti-microbials) when there wounds, abrasions, etc. as the root cause of an external infection. While generally not the first choice for Pop-eye, it can be if a wound or similar is the cause.

Further Information: Aquarium Medications Part 2; Sulfathiazole

Malachite Green can also be added to Methylene Blue to increase effectiveness for fungal infections as well as parasites.
Recommended Resource: AAP Seachem Paraguard (Zinc Free MG)
AAP Pipzine is a good choice for: Unexplained Fish Death, Gourami Disease, & Gasping & Surface Breathing.
While primarily meant as a fish food soak, AAP Discomed is still a good choice for Color Loss, Weight Loss and Wasting, Darkened Body Color, Skinny Body, & Concaved Abdomen; ALL as a result of parasitic infections.
This product also already contains NaCl, Piperazine & Magnesium Sulfate, so these salts need not be added to the fish bath.
Usnea is an experimental alternative that has similar properties to Metronidazole and can also be effective for some viruses and possibly tumors. I use about 1 tablespoon per 6 oz. preparation for a 1 quart bath.
Please see this article for more about the use of Usnea:
Usnea as a Fish Disease Remedy

Alternatives to Methylene Blue

Acriflavin, at double recommended tank dose can be substituted for Methylene Blue for treatment baths for ailments such as wounds, and very stubborn fungus infections (which can be common in bettas kept in confined spaces).
Product Source: API Yellow Powder, Nitrofurazone & Acriflavin

Kordon Fish Therapy Curative Bath, This is an all natural fish bath developed by Kordon containing natural therapeutic oils (including citrus, neem, and lavender oils), and aloe vera.
However do not be fooled thinking that just because it is natural, it is therefore better, as this is NOT a replacement of Methylene Blue for fish suffering from ammonia poisoning, low oxygen damage, pH shock, or other bath medications for more serious problems.

This product is best used without any other medications as an alternative treatment or preventative for suspected mild to some moderate problems, in particular if parasites are suspected (either internal or external). Use with salts is OK and suggested for moderate to serious issues (either or both Epsom Salt or Sodium Chloride).

Potassium Permanganate (at double recommended tank dose) can be substituted for Methylene Blue for treatment baths for ailments such as Flukes, cloudy eyes, & some stubborn parasite and bacterial infections such as Columnaris(generally Potassium Permanganate is the better choice for Columnaris unless the fish is displaying rapid breathing or is on "death's door").
Product Source: AAP/Jungle Potassium Permanganate, Clear Water

HOWEVER for "pure" preventative baths, ammonia poisoning or unknown problems, Methylene Blue is by far the better choice.

Unlike Methylene Blue; DO NOT mix Potassium Permanganate with antibiotics.

See this article under Potassium Permanganate or Methylene Blue for more:
Aquarium Medications; Chemical Treatments.

Another key point is that Methylene Blue can quite SAFELY be overdosed as it takes high amounts with long term exposure to be toxic, while Potassium Permanganate should NEVER be overdosed.

CAUTIONS About the Use of Potassium Permanganate for Baths & Painting (Swabbing) Infections:

Since Potassium Permanganate is strong oxidizer, caution should be exercised in usage for baths and especially as direct application for external infections (unlike Methylene Blue which is very difficult to over dose).
For most fish, a double dose of the normal 'in tank' recommended dosage is used.
This varies from product to product, however using Jungle Clear Water as an example; the recommended tank dosage is 5 mL per ten gallons, so the bath dosage would be 10 mL per ten gallons (or 5 mL per 5 gallons of “bath” water).
Fish such as many Tetras, Loaches, and similar “sensitive” fish should be given consideration in dosage of Potassium Permanganate.

An even more important consideration is the use of Potassium Permanganate for direct application/swabbing of certain infections such as external symptoms of Columnaris or Saprolegnia/Fungus (see the next section for more about swabbing/dips).

Potassium Permanganate should be diluted at least 3/1 up to 2/1 (water/PP) for this use and often more so depending upon the fish in question (testing on a healthy part of the fish in question or a related fish may help determine tolerance).
As well do NOT use even diluted PP anywhere near the gills of a fish, or on fish tissue showing signs of necrosis [1], THIS CAN BE LETHAL.
Use a diluted PP swab ONLY on areas of actual Columnaris, Saprolegnia, or related infection such as the common "Saddleback" often seen in Columnaris or the fuzzy growth areas of Saprolegnia.

If Potassium Permanganate or Hydrogen Peroxide is accidentally applied directly to the gills, an immediate 3-5 minute dip in water with a 2-3 x normal dose of SeaChem Prime or other similar water conditioner is a must!
The use of AAP Res-Q or Prime or other similar water conditioner at double strength in a 2-5 minute dip (using tank water) is also strongly suggest after a bath using Potassium Permanganate or Hydrogen Peroxide if only to help restore the slime coat and restore the fish Redox Balance since most aquarium water conditioners are temporary Redox Reducers.

Product Sources:
SeaChem Prime, Temporary Redox Reducer AAP Res-Q; Premium Medicated Bandage, Reducer, & Slime Coat Protector

Further Information: Aquarium Water Conditioner Review

Please note that this point of dilution does NOT apply to Methylene Blue which is safe to use full strength, even around gills (although internal gill application is best performed via a bath, not a swab).

Dips, Swabbing (Swabs), etc.

In a dip, I again adjust pH and add Methylene Blue, HOWEVER in the case of the marine fish, I will use a specific gravity of 1.001 (basically a freshwater dip) and a specific gravity of 1.012 of 1.015 for the freshwater fish (2.3 oz. or approximately ¼ cup of fine salt per gallon) which is basically a saltwater dip.
This dip should be no less than 3 minutes and no more than 5 minutes to be effective.

For known problems (or sometimes as a preventative for new fish especially as a Cryptocaryon or Oodinium in marine fish) a 3-5 minute dip is sometimes even more effective, albeit more stressful to the fish (more stressful for freshwater fish than saltwater fish).
The picture to the right displays an Ocellaris Clownfish in freshwater dip for Oodinium treatment.

To lower the stress a high salt dip for freshwater fish or a freshwater dip for marine fish it is advisable to use the first 2 minutes (of a 5 minute dip) slowly introducing the saltwater (or freshwater for marine fish) until the fish is in the desired salinity water for the remaining 3 minutes.
Make sure that the water added slowly during the first 2 minutes is pre-mixed with salt prior to use for freshwater fish or pre-adjusted for pH for marine fish.

A dip is often a better choice than a bath for a large or otherwise “spastic” fish due to the much shorter duration.
As well a dip, albeit much more harsh than a bath (when used as described), may be a better choice for a very ill fish that may be “at deaths door” and the risks of a dip are low when compared to the fact of the probable imminent death of the fish anyway.
A dip is also a good choice for problems that stem from fluid build-up and poor osmotic function, such as many causes of “Pop-Eye”.

*I also use dips to replace quarantine when quarantine is not possible for fish of questionable sources; especially with marine fish as a dip is nearly 100% effective for destroying Oodinium or Cryptocaryon on marine fish (the osmotic pressure causes the parasite cells to burst). Keep in mind that the dip does not destroy these parasites in the water column if the disease has already been accidentally introduced.

Further Reading:
*Oodinium in Marine Fish
*Marine Ich, Cryptocaryon

*SWABS:

Another similar idea is to directly drop or “paint” with a Q-Tip (or similar implement) Methylene Blue, Mebromin (AAP Wound Control), Potassium Permanganate (diluted), tincture of Iodine, or Hydrogen Peroxide onto a problem area such as Saprolegnia/fungus, Columnaris, Ichthyophonus, or similar.
This can be VERY effective for stubborn external infected areas on a fish (such as node on fish tails, etc.) as well as a first response to a wound or injury.

The negative of swabs is these can be even much more difficult to perform for a nervous fish keeper than a bath, so staying calm is very important. As well, while remaining calm, it is best to firmly but gently handle the fish so as to prevent injury. I prefer using my hands once captured, not a net.
For larger specimens I will use a smooth container with square sides to more easily hold the fish firmly.

Methylene Blue is safe to use for exposed tissue, which will stain blue, but this is not a danger unless grossly over used. However since MB is not very strong, if the area treated still has a slime coat, MB will likely not penetrate well (a swab may not also be called for in such an instance).

The use of Methylene Blue at full strength (in a typical 2.303% solution or concentrated MethyBlu) as a swab, dip, and to a lesser degree a bath will also expose healthy or at least normal tissue as Methylene Blue will generally adhere to infected areas or wounds staining the area “blue” due to the lack of the normal “slime” coating fish have on healthy areas of a fish’ epidermis.
Even scar tissue will generally not stain “blue”, so this a good test of whether or not a “growth/sore” is actually an infection or similar (please note that some cancers/tumors can mimic healthy tissue and not stain blue).

Another alternative to a straight Methylene Blue swab or drops is Mebromin
In fact prior to the demise of availability of this Mebromin around 2002, this was my swab or drop chemical of choice for many applications over Methylene Blue.
While Mebromin does not have the benefits of dying exposed tissue (showing where tissue is compromised) and transport of oxygen to cells, it actually is far more effective for exposed injuries/wounds and severe infections caused by opportunistic bacteria with just as much safety margins as Methylene Blue (unlike Potassium Permanganate and Hydrogen Peroxide) but is vastly more effective for bacteria such as Columnaris and in fact is the swab/direct application of choice in such bacterium.

For really serious exposed infections, such as flesh eating bacteria (which is difficult to treat), is a combination where the aquarium fish keeper first uses AAP Wound Control to stop & kill the infection, followed by placing the sick fish in a holding container for 5-10 minutes then follow with a MethyBlu swab which although not as effective on bacterium, it is better at promoting healing and getting oxygen to sick tissue.

Product Resource: AAP Mebromin (Wound Control)

For serious infections such as advanced cases of Columnaris/Sadddleback Disease, a swab with Merbromin (AAP Wound Control) or Potassium Permanganate (as discussed earlier in the article in detail) should be performed, then possibly follow a couple hours later with AAP/SeaChem StressGuard.
As already noted, some sores, blisters, tumors, etc., may not allow adhesion of Methylene Blue/MethyBlu and AAP Res-Q may not be enough, this is where the use of Merbromin or maybe Potassium Permanganate may be called for.
Please Review "Potassium Permanganate Cautions" before using.

If Potassium Permanganate or Hydrogen Peroxide is used as a swab; placing the fish into a quick dip utilizing a double dose of any Redox Reducing Water Conditioner such as SeaChem Prime,AAP Res-Q, or AAP Sheildex can immediately stop any unwanted oxidation of Potassium Permanganate on the fish.

Product Sources:
Prime Aquarium Water Conditioner from AAP
Potassium Permanganate; Clear Water from AAP

Further Information about Redox: Aquarium Redox

After swabbing, the use of AAP/SeaChem StressGuard in the aquarium is suggested.

Product Resource:
StressGuard from AAP

For stubborn Fin rot or infections direct application of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide via swab has been successful on many occasions.
Further Information: Aquarium Medications 3; Hydrogen Peroxide

Potassium Permanganate (this should be diluted approximately 50% to 60%, unlike Methylene Blue) & Hydrogen Peroxide are generally more effective for the above noted infections.
However open sores, wounds, and in particular gill problems should Not use Potassium Permanganate.

Hydrogen Peroxide or tincture of Iodine may be used (EXCEPT for gills), however Methylene Blue is a better choice direct gill applications where PP or Hydrogen Peroxide will burn the gills and often kill the fish as a consequence.

If Tincture of Iodine is used as a swab, a quick dip into some "throw away" water after the swab can help prevent toxic levels of iodine in the aquarium due to excess iodine on the fish after the swab.

Any of these swabs can also be used in conjunction with baths and "in tank" treatments too.

Finally, for stubborn fungal infections, Acriflavin (found in API Fungus Cure) is another good swab choice, especially for Bettas normally kept in small tanks/bowls.

CORAL, ANEMONE DIP OR BATH

Often a dip of anemones or coral (such as Acropora corals) is necessary to remove bacterial, parasites, planarian, etc.
Further Reference: Fish Parasites, Flatworms, more

A simple freshwater dip using de-clorinated freshwater adjusted to the pH of the water of the saltwater containing the specimen to be dipped is often "good enough" for many problems.
This should be between 3-5 minutes to be effective for "bugs" such as Oodinium.

Iodine Baths are excellent for some potential parasites of corals such as flatworms.
For a home method, the use of Tincture of Iodine 2.5% can work well and is available over the counter at most drug stores.
Use 1 Liter (approximately 1 quart) of Tank water, then added 20 drops of Tincture of Iodine 2.5%. Then fill a second container with tank water only, this is for rinsing dipped (bathed) corals.

Place your corals including both SPS and LPS in this bath for approximately 20 minutes (do NOT exceed 25 minutes).
This is followed by rinsing the corals gently in the rinsing the corals for about 30 seconds with a swirling motion.

An excellent and SAFE product to use is SeaChem Reef Dip, which contains elemental iodine complexed to a protective slime coat for safely and gently disinfecting corals.
SeaChem Reef Dip can be used prophylactically or to remedy diseased specimens. It is safe to use with both stony and soft corals. It is also safe for anemones and polyps.
Product Source: Reef Dip; Contains Elemental Iodine Complexed to a Protective Slime Coat

A FEW HELPFUL CONVERSIONS

(Use accurate teaspoons, not silverware):

Teaspoon = 4.929 mL
Tablespoon = .5 fl. oz. = 14.787 mL
For mixing salt for a dip; 1/2 dry cup will make a specific gravity of about 1.023- 1.025;
For 1.015 specific gravity for a dip, use approximately 1/4 to 1/3 dry cup.

Fish Bath Video;

Feedback

Carl,

Just like to thank you for the information. Our fish is doing GREAT! I wish I had a before and after picture. He had turned completely black lost so much weight and his tail was almost completely gone. I really didn’t think there was much of a chance that he’d make it. I did the fish baths with Aquarium salt, Methyl Blue, Kanaplex, and Metronidazole for 10 days. Now he has gained weight and has almost caught back up w/ our other fish. He has turned back completely to gold except his fins which were black to start with. Its truly amazing. My girls would have been heartbroken if he had not made it.

Thanks again.
Jennifer Arnder

Glossary of Terms

*[1] Necrosis: Localized tissue death that occurs in groups of cells in response to disease or injury. This often results in large growing sores and exposed deep tissues of the fish.

Related Tips:

If you use a UV Sterilizer for Fish disease prevention and improved Redox (for fish immunity improvement), it is important to change the UV Bulb every six months for maximum effectiveness!

Product Sources:
*Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizers
*Premium Low Pressure UV-C Replacement Bulbs/Lamps, Page One

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Fish Nutrition
Complete information from fish food building blocks to sources and much more

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FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

Decorative Coral
Aquarium Decorations such as:
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Streptococcus, Eye Infections in Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 21:51:00 +0000

Streptococcus, Fish Eye Infections

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 35+ years experience
Updated 1/26/2019

This article deals with the most common gram positive bacterial infection affecting fish; Streptococcus iniae, and agalactiae as well as closely related bacterial groups; Lactococcus , Enterococcus , and Vagococcus.
Gram Positive Reference: Aquarium Medications; Gram Positive & Negative

The most common symptom these bacteria will show as cloudy eyes and although majority of most aquarium bacterial infestations are gram negative, most eye infections are generally gram positive and caused by Streptococcus or related bacterium

Occasionally Aeromonas in freshwater or Vibrio in saltwater will show up as eye infections, especially in “Pop Eye”. In this case, following treatment for Aeromonas and Vibrio are is recommended as these are gram negative anaerobic & aerobic bacteria.

Please see this article for more:
Treatment and Identification of Aeromonas and Vibrio in Aquariums and Ponds

Although “Cloudy Eyes” (corneal opacity-whitish eyes) is the most common symptom of these gram positive infections, other symptoms are possible such as:

"Pop-eye" (though usually caused by Aeromonas),

Hemorrhages in or around the eye

A “milky” slime

Erratic swimming

Swim bladder issues (inability to regulate buoyancy) & lethargy

Darkening of body (such as a “black moldy appearance

Occasionally Streptococcus can appear as a mouth 'fungus', on the gill plate, base of the fins, vent/anus, or elsewhere on the body although usually this is a symptom of Columnaris or Saprolegnia.
Reference: Columnaris & Saprolegnia

On rare occasions Streptococcus may be a cause of Dropsy.
As well some cases of “False Neon Tetra Disease” (FNT) may also be caused by Streptococcus.

Further Reading:
*Dropsy in Fish
*Neon Tetra Disease; FNT

Often fish with Streptococcus iniae infections will not eat, which can complicate treatment for this bacterium when it is internal, especially for freshwater fish which do not drink water they are contained in (unlike most marine fish).
Further Reading: Do Fish Drink?

Most bacterial diseases of fish are opportunistic (such as Aeromonas or Columnaris).
Streptococcus on the other hand, does not seem to be a truly opportunistic pathogen, as it can be more aggressive than many other environmental bacteria.

In one experimental study (Ferguson et al. 1994), populations of zebra danios and white clouds exposed to high concentrations of Streptococcus in the water experienced 100% mortality within 2-4 days of exposure.
For this reason it is important that Streptococcus infections be quickly identified and managed to prevent major losses.

It is also noteworthy that recent studies have also shown growing incidents of this bacterial infection in fish farming, which is where most of the research into Streptococcus in fish is made available from.
In fact this problem has become severe enough among Tilapia and Trout farms that a vaccine is now in the testing phase for Streptococcus iniae.
Reference: First Live-Attenuated Vaccine for S. Iniae in Development

Fish that have been documented most susceptible include rainbow sharks, red-tailed black sharks, rosy barbs, danios, and some tetras and some cichlids.

TREATMENT

For most “full blown” Streptococcus infections (not necessarily a mild eye infection), Erythromycin Phosphate is often the drug of choice.
Mortality should cease within 48 hr of treatment with the correct antibiotic if complicating factors are not present.

If the disease is internal, this therapy may be difficult because commonly sold erythromycin sulfate does not absorb well, and this case treatment with Neomycin enhanced foods foods is recommended.
Further Reading: Aquarium Medications; Fish Food Delivery

Recommended Product Sources:
*AAP Myacin (SUPERIOR Erythromycin Phosphate) (this product is a much better choice over the lessor Erythromycin Sulfate found in API Erythromycin or Mardel Maracyn)
*API Erythromycin from AAP
*SeaChem Neoplex (Neomycin) from AAP

It should be noted that although Erythromycin is the drug of choice, because it is an effective anti gram positive bacterium medication, it is also very hard on nitrifying bacteria, so having cultured sponge filters or other “seasoned” filter media to replace during and/or after treatment is very important since Streptococcus is not opportunistic. Many opportunistic bacterium such as Columnaris may follow, especially if ammonia/nitrites rise during or after treatment.
Further Reference: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle; Use of Medications

Although generally the antibiotic of choice, sometimes Streptococcus bacterium can build a resistance to Erythromycin (as well sometimes destruction of tank environment from the use of Erythromycin can be a double edged sword that renders this antibiotic ineffective especially if tank conditions are not closely monitored).
In this case, Doxycyline or Tetracycline Hydrochloride may be a good substitute with Doxycyline more often being the better choice.

Tetracycline is not without its side effects either and its use can severely lower red blood cell counts in fish, so increasing circulation is a must.
As well, it's hard on nitrifying bacteria and tends to cause a buildup of brown foam. Tetracycline or Doxycyline should never be combined with Erythromycin.

Further Reading: Aquarium Medications Part 2; Tetracycline

Recommended Product Sources:
AAP Fin & Body Cure (Doxycyline)
Tetracycline from AAP

Other Potential Treatments Include Combinations Of:

Erythromycin and Nitrofurazone (Furan 2)
Product Source: Furan 2 (Nitrofurazone) from AAP
Kanamycin combined with Nitrofurazone (Furan 2) (Nitrofurazone is especially useful for topical infections that may show as a milky slime) or Neomycin (in food for suspected internal infections).
Product Sources:
AAP Spectrogram; Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone Wide Spectrum Combination (1st choice over purchasing Kanaplex & Furan 2 separately as this already blended combinations works better synergistically).
Kanacyn (Kanamycin) from AAP
Minocycline in the same combinations in place of Kanacyn.
The advantage of possibly using Kanacyn is that this medication (combined with Nitrofurazone) can also prevent/treat opportunistic Columnaris or Aeromonas infections that may arise.

Melafix is a reasonable preventative treatment and may be effective for mild Streptococcus infections.
Sometimes for very mild eye infections (no other symptoms) Melafix is the only "in-tank" treatment you may need to use (outside of direct application of treatment).
Further Reading: Aquarium Medications Part 4; Organic Treatments

Recommended Product Source: Melafix from AAP

If eyes are directly affected (and the only primary target of this infection), removing the fish and treating the fish directly in the eyes with Silver Nitrate followed by Potassium Dichromate IS EXTREMELY effective. The Silver Nitrate immediately destroys the infection then the Potassium Dichromate immediately stops the reaction.
The only problem being that Silver Nitrate is hard to find, other than AAP, sometimes photo lab supply businesses may have it.
Pictured to the right is Eye Fungex by AAP containing Silver and Potassium Dichromate..

Another choice is Merbromin, which too can be swabbed, painted, or dropped directly on the eyes. While not as effective as the Silver Nitrate/Potassium Dichromate combination, it is also easier to use.

Potassium Permanganate is reasonable third choice for this direct eye application and Methylene Blue a forth choice for direct application.
Either way, sometimes the only “in tank treatment” that may have to followed up with when the eyes are treated directly is Melafix or Melafix/Pimafix combination(used in the main tank or hospital tank, not in a bath).

Recommended Product Sources:
*AAP Eye Fungex
*AAP Merbromin (Wound Control)
*AAP MethyBlu (Premium Methylene Blue)

Medicated Baths may also be a very useful part of treatment for external Streptococcus infections in fish.
These would be twice daily for 30 minutes and I recommend the use of Methylene Blue combined with a double dose of Erythromycin or Tetracycline, or even Usnea

Recommended Product Source: Methylene Blue from AAP

Further Information:
*Aquarium Disease Prevention; Baths
*Fish Baths; Complete Information
*Usnea as a Treatment for Fish

If you suspect that you have a group of fish with a Streptococcus infection, the affected population should be isolated from all others. If possible, have dedicated equipment (nets, siphon hoses) for these fish.

PREVENTION

Since Streptococcus is not as opportunistic as discussed earlier, prevention is VERY key to stopping this bacterium. This would include UV Sterilization, medicated baths or quarantine of ALL new fish and if at all possible:
See these articles:
* “Aquarium Disease Prevention”
*UV Sterilization for Aquarium or Pond; Why it should be used

Although Streptococcus does seem to occur more frequently at warmer temperatures, it can occur at any time of the year.
Studies in marine systems in Japan Kitao et al. 1979, indicate that Strep may be present in salt water and mud, with higher incidence in the water during summer months.
Source: Distribution of Streptococcus sp. in Seawater and Muds around Yellowtail Farms

Nets, siphon hoses, vacuums, etc should ALL be soaked in Potassium Permanganate (or even bleach) prior to use in other tanks if you have more than one aquarium.

Recommended Product Source: Clear Water; Potassium Permanganate, from AAP

Use of anti-septic treatments such as Melafix, especially after injury or similar is helpful for prevention or even treatment early in Streptococcus infections.
Think of it this way, many human infections (including Staph) are common and simple treatments with products such as Neosporin is all that is necessary in minor injuries to prevent a major infection.
Although Melafix has little or NO anti gram negative bacterial abilities, it is an excellent preventive even for diseases such as Columnaris from getting a “foothold” by killing off disease pathogens such as Streptococcus that may be followed by Columnaris.

Further References:
*Streptococcus In Tilapia

Copyright Carl Strohmeyer

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The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Titanium Submersible Heaters:

Aquarium Heaters
Reliable Via Aqua Submersible Quartz Aquarium Heater

The Best in Value UV Sterilizers:
*Aquarium & Pond UV-C Sterilizers/Clarifiers

Including;

*COMPACT UV STERILIZERS, Terminator 7 watt to 36 watt

*TMC PREMIUM High Dwell Time Pond/Aquarium UV Sterilizers

Hydrogen Sulfide in Aquariums

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 22:47:00 +0000

Hydrogen Sulfide production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Pond Nitrate Removal

Sections Include

Overview

Lowering Hydrogen Sulfides

Evidence of Sulfate Reduction

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 35+ years experience
Updated 1/12/19

Basics/Overview

Hydrogen Sulfide is unfortunately often a companion of anaerobic de-nitrification, of which denitrification is an important aspect of keeping low nitrate levels in both salt and freshwater.
This said, it is important to achieve de-nitrification without undue amounts of Hydrogen sulfide produced, but often this is difficult since both are byproducts of organic breakdown in environments that are either mostly devoid or totally devoid of oxygen. However within the last point is part of the answer as well!!

Hydrogen sulfide (sulfate reduction) generally results from the bacterial breakdown of organic matter in the total absence of oxygen, where as de-nitirifcation (nitrate reduction) that lowers nitrates while producing free nitrogen generally happens in an environment that is mostly devoid of oxygen but not completely devoid as in hydrogen sulfide production.

The production of Hydrogen Sulfide in aquariums (both salt and even more so freshwater) is a controversial subject, often with unclear answers as to whether anaerobic de-nitrification is beneficial in freshwater due to the POSSIBLE production of Hydrogen Sulfide.
The keyword is “possible” as in saltwater, you CAN have de-nitrification with no or low hydrogen sulfide production.

With the most current research (although admittedly not conclusive in my view), you CAN have anaerobic de-nitrification and NOT have dangerous levels of Hydrogen Sulfide produced in both fresh & saltwater. With healthy de-nitrification it is possible to have low nitrate levels below 20 ppm

Points to achieving De-Nitrification (Removal of Nitrates) without Hydrogen Sulfide Production

One study showed that even though sulfate reduction (the production of hydrogen sulfides from Nitrates/Sulfur) took place maximally at ¾ inch (1-2 cm) depth, free hydrogen sulfide was present only below a depth of 2-1/2 inches (6-7 cm), above which Fe++ (Iron) was available for precipitation as iron sulfides.
So with this study in mind, keeping your substrate sand bed mixed at depths deeper than 2.5 inches and/or minimally aerated can prevent this process.
This will also allow for better de-nitrification (lower nitrate levels) as nitrate will be allowed to better permeate the deeper sand depths allowing for more nitrate reduction and less sulfur reduction.

Care should be especially taken with Under Gravel Filters as these filters can allow much compaction of gravel when gravel is much over 2.5 inches.
As well mulm/sludge can build up under the under gravel plates and the biggest risk is when the filter is shut down either manually or by a power failure as this decomposing mulm can quickly go sulfur reducing anaerobic and not only produce hydrogen sulfide, but the more immediate danger is a sudden decrease of dissolved oxygen levels from the die off of aerobic nitrifying bacteria trapped/dying in the deeper layers of gravel or under the plates.
This is especially true with the tube/pvc type UG Filters and less of a problem with UG Filters with ridges in the plates.

That said a well maintained Under Gravel Filter rarely has Hydrogen Sulfide problem (although these filters also cannot perform anaerobic de-nitrification either)

Along this same line of thought as the previous point, a good surface flow of water and correct vacuuming procedures which includes surface vacuuming of top layers of gravel, AND as well occasional and gentle vacuuming of deeper layers except where plant roots would be damaged

One test/study I read showed that organics in totally oxygen deprived test tubes made little difference in the production of hydrogen sulfides, HOWEVER it was the total lack of oxygen and nitrates in these layers that allow for sulfate reduction to start.

In marine tanks I recommend a ½ inch layer of #3 gravel/crushed coral over the several inch deep bed of fine #00 oolite sand, while in planted aquariums I have found good results limiting Hydrogen Sulfide production by only using fine sand or planted substrate in the area of plant roots ONLY, then adding #3 or #5 gravel/pebbles in all other areas of the tank bottom.

Change to the brightest lights possible. The lights drive higher oxygen concentrations and the oxygen will help neutralize hydrogen sulfide.

A study showed that when 300 ppb hydrogen sulfide was added to Biscayne Bay and Gulf Stream waters off of Florida, the half life of the sulfide was 49 and 147 minutes, respectively.
Such studies found that sunlight (both ultraviolet and visible) was able to significantly accelerate the oxidation.

This speaks “loudly” for strong lighting whether it be healthy 6400 K SHO lamps, Metal Halide, or High Output LED Lights (which my previous notes in reef keeping showed NO hydrogen sulfide production when SHO, MH & LED lights were employed).

Product Resources:
*SHO Super High Output Aquarium or Hydroponics Lights
*TMC High Output LED Aquarium Lighting Systems

This also shows one more reason why a UV Sterilizer should be used, whether fresh or saltwater if they can at all be afforded (of which UV Sterilizers are not all that expensive, even for good quality/value models such as the Terminator UV).
Product Resource: SunSun, Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers

In freshwater aquariums, plant roots have been shown to not only remove ammonia directly, but as well (and more importantly as to the subject of this article) prohibit the total anaerobic conditions that promote production of hydrogen sulfides.

Also with freshwater aquariums, the addition of iron supplements to the water can be helpful for Hydrogen Sulfide prevention. The iron will bind to the sulfide, making it neutral to living organisms.
Product Resource: SeaChem Iron Supplement

What these points show is that the hydrogen sulfide production in substrate is only common when the area of sulfate reduction in question is totally deprived of oxygen and nitrates.
This can be demonstrated with a canister filter or FSB filter that ceases operation (due to power filter, mechanical failure, etc.).

As long as very small amounts of oxygen and nitrates can penetrate into the substrate (or live rock), this will not become a problem.
This same general idea holds true for man made de-nitrators that have no oxygen whatsoever and are not bathed in adequate nitrates. This also can be demonstrated with a canister filter that is set up with products such as Matrix, Bio Home, or Volcanic Rock where as even marginal oxygen penetration should keep the filter from producing hydrogen sulfides. Ditto a FSB filter operating with a large/tall reaction chamber or using nitrate removal products such as NPX Bioplastics

Light energy has also been shown to be a factor in destroying rogue hydrogen sulfide molecules in the water and penetrating into some layers of substrate as well.

Product Resources:
*AAP/TMC Professional FSB Filter
*AAP NPX Bioplastics

Appearance/Evidence of Sulfate Reduction

A tell-tale sign of Hydro Sulfide production is black areas in the deep areas of sand or substrate, whether freshwater, marine, or especially ponds.
The rotten egg odor is another sign, although as Hydrogen Sulfide levels in the air increase, research has shown that human’s olfactory senses tend to block out the smell somewhat.
However the smell test is still useful when one stirs up substrate releasing large amounts of trapped hydrogen sulfide bubbles which if your nose is just above the water's surface, the tell tale rotten egg smell is easy to detect. If bubbles released upon stirring the substrate do not produce a smell, likely the majority of these trapped gasses is nitrogen from beneficial nitrate reduction.

Please see the picture to the left of what the "black" Hydrogen Sulfide producing layers look like in sand (click picture to enlarge).

Hydrogen sulfide is toxic to a wide range of organisms, including people, which is a FACT that has been known for many years.
It is just now becoming clear, however, that hydrogen sulfide also appears to play important roles in normal biochemical processes in animals. Neurons and muscles, for example, may use it in various ways, but exactly how this takes place has not been made clear scientifically.

One way that hydrogen sulfide exerts its toxicity is by inhibiting a mitochondrial enzyme called cytochrome c oxidase.
It can be inhibited at hydrogen sulfide levels in solution as low as 30 ppb.12
Such inhibition limits the ability of mitochondria to produce energy for cells. Another enzyme, catalase, is inhibited at concentrations of 6,000 ppb.12
Other mechanisms of toxicity are also likely, and have recently been studied.

Being that hydrogen sulfide is heavier than air, it can accumulate at the water surface if there is not adequate ventilation above the aquarium tank which in turn cuts off oxygen from entering the water resulting in livestock deaths. Look out for gasping fish as a possible sign.

Hydrogen sulfide eruptions happen frequently off the shore of Namibia because of patterns in the ocean currents called upwelling.
In this region, cold water pushes nutrients from the ocean floor to the surface, where ocean life thrives.
In particular, large colonies of microscopic ocean plants, phytoplankton, grow in the nutrient rich water, forming the dark green swirls seen in this image.

As the plants use all of the nutrients, they die and sink to the sea floor where bacteria consume them. The bacteria release toxic hydrogen sulfide gas into the soil. Eventually, the toxic gas erupts from the soil.
In addition to the bright waters seen by satellites, the event is marked by massive fish die-offs and a strong smell that resembles rotten eggs. To date, hydrogen sulfide eruptions have only been observed off the shore of Namibia

Please click the picture to the left to enlarge.

HOWEVER hydrogen sulfide toxicity problems aside, I have observed and the most up to date scientific evidence supports that an aquarist or pond keeper CAN maintain de-nitrification without the worry-some production of hydrogen sulfides

For Further information about the Aquarium/Pond Nitrogen Cycle, please see this very well researched article:
"The Aquarium & Pond Nitrogen Cycle"

Further references:
*Hydrogen Sulfide and the Reef Aquarium
*Wikipedia; Hydrogen sulfide

Other Suggested Resources, Products

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Sponge Filtration; Information How Sponge Filters Work

NPX BioPlastics; Nitrate & Phosphate Reducing Media
by Two Little Fishies

TMC V² Bio Fluidized Sand Bed Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with optional Oolitic Sand also maintains essential aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL marine & freshwater life

Algone Nitrate Reducer
Algone is an excellent product to utilize to lower nitrates, as enzymes in Algone break down proteins, carbohydrates and metabolic waste into insoluble complex structures

Aquarium Wonder Shell; ONLY Authorized full online seller
The most simple and proven effective way to maintain healthy mineral cations in your aquarium. Beware of parasite retailers online. ONLY AAP is authorized to sell the full line of FRESH Wonder Shells, both Medicated & Regular

SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump; replaces Via Aqua 1300
This pump replaces the Via Aqua 1300 and other copies such as by AquaTop as the Premier Power Head Pump for Aquariums, Ponds, Fountains, Wet/Dry Filters. This pump is submersible with Mag drive & ceramic shaft

Fish Shipping

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 00:18:00 +0000

Basics of Shipping Fish

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/13/19

Overview

Tips and basics About Shipping
Problems
Methods and Products

This article is intended for shipping by bag, not moving an Aquarium.
For aquarium and containers shipping, please this Aquarium Answers article:
Aquarium Answers; Tank Moving

The primary purpose of this article is not to point out a right or wrong way to ship fish, rather to outline what the primary problems are and ways to avoid them.
As well, to provide different options as to products that may help in shipping of fish (such as from sales of fish on eBay or AquaBid).

Some of the basics are rather obvious, however I will point them out:

Make sure that you are shipping fish via USPS Priority, Fedex or similar. Also try and ship early in the week to ensure that the fish will not be held up over a weekend. If you can afford the higher fees of Fedex 2 Day or even overnight, I recommend the service in that you get real world tracking.
I should note that FedEx technically does not allow shipping of live fish, but I know of many who simply do not declare the package as "live fish" and then ship FedEx for more reliable results

Be aware of temperatures along your route of shipping (especially if “Ground” is used and NOT all Priority Mail is Air!!!).
For air destinations it is a concern due to time in the truck prior to delivery.
Consider cold packs for fish such as Goldfish consider heat packs for tropical fish in colder climate winter months.
Whether heat or cold packs are used, they should be wrapped in newspaper and not placed directly by the shipping bag. I also recommend choosing shorter duration shipping services during times of extreme temperatures (hot/cold)

Pack with as much air, water, and insulation as possible.
If standard shipping bags are used I recommend at least a 3 to 1 air over water ration.
If possible inject pure oxygen into the fish bag.

For the Kordon Breathing Bags, little air is necessary, so this saves on space and more water can possibly be used.
These bags have gotten popular among some circles of aquarists, as these are a unique idea, however they are not without their flaws and in fact more major shippers I know do NOT recommend them. HOWEVER for individual fish shipments by private parties is where these bags have their best attributes, but in larger bulk shipments the negatives generally out weigh the positives.

From the Article:
“Aquarium Disease Prevention” here is more about Kordon “breathing” shipping bags

Here are a few points +, –, or N (neutral) about this bag:
- (+) The bags allow oxygen and CO2 exchange which also lowers pH shock upon arrival (the major benefit in my opinion).
- (+) Lowers size of shipping container as NO air needs to be added to the bag.
- (-) The bags rupture easily; many shippers have told me that bag ruptures are triple normal.
- (N) They still do not aid with ammonia/nitrites (although this is not truly a negative, more to just be aware of)
- (N) These bags CANNOT be double bagged, otherwise they will NOT properly “breath”
- (-) If bags come in contact with each other, they do not work well and packing them for the inevitable rough handling of shipping is nearly impossible or at least very time consuming.
- (-) The bags do poorly with multiple fish per bag, in part because the bags are designed to hold small amounts of water so that fish can come close to the sides of the bags which multiple fish per bags usually does not allow.
- (-) Higher cost.
- (-) The bottom line is that the shippers I asked reported HIGHER losses with these bags.
Don't get me wrong, I think these are a unique idea, especially for smaller individual shipments, however based on my discussions with real world shippers, they do not work well for larger shipments.

PROBLEMS TO BE AWARE OF:

Here are a few of the major problems encountered in shipping to avoid as well as suggestions for these problems:

First is ammonia/nitrite poisoning; this is major killer in shipping and is best avoided by a few or combined methods.

Avoid feeding fish for 48 hours prior to shipping to lower wastes into the shipping bag.

Shorten the duration of shipping as much as possible (I recommend to keep it under 3 days)

I recommend the use of Products containing Methylene Blue as this product improves the Hemoglobin transfer and lowers ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Products such as Wonder Shells can also absorb some Ammonia/nitrites as can Zeolite (Ammonia Sorb), although the later is FW only.
Further Information: Aquarium Medications Part 3; Methylene Blue

Product Resource: Methylene Blue from American Aquarium

Oxygen depletion; adding pure oxygen or ample plain air can help here as can length of time in transit.
Again Methylene Blue shines here again with its Hemoglobin Transfer abilities in the blood it allows for more oxygen.
The use of the Kordon Breather Bags can help considerably with this problem as well.
pH Shock; this is often the forgotten killer of shipped fish and in my opinion often the number one killer at that.
This happens from CO2 buildup in the bag, which will then result in very low pH upon arrival.

I have had fish shipped in water with a pH of 8.0 arrive and when the bag is opened, the water pH is under 6.5.
It is not the actual pH that is primary concern, rather the fact that many well intentioned aquarists will dump these fish into a tank with pH similar to what these fish are generally kept at (say 8.0), but here in lies the problem: the pH scale is logarithmic and a change of 1 point in pH represents a tenfold increase in acidity or alkalinity.
So in the example sited these fish would be shocked by a 50 times increase in alkalinity (from !

To address this, the shipping bag should only be opened just enough to allow a drip tube so as to slowly drip water from the display (or whatever aquarium will be receiving the new fish) at a rate of a drop every few seconds.
I usually place the bag in a tub of aquarium water so as to slowly temperature adjust and allow for gravity dripping of the water (I use an airline valve to adjust the drip).
I will also add a dose of Methylene Blue as per water volume for ammonia/nitrite toxicity (brown blood syndrome) to the water during this slow acclimation time. This process may need to take a few hours.
Product Resource: Lees Air Line Control Valve

To lower this problem (nothing fully eliminates this problem), the use of Wonder Shell fragments aids pH and mineral control in shipping water.
Also this is another benefit of properly used Kordon Breather Bags (please do not forget the negatives as well from earlier in the article).
Product Resource: Wonder Shells; Fresh ONLY from AAP

Stress and loss of slime coat; Stress is obviously hard to prevent, but good handling and the use of stress lowering products can help.
Large fish generally do not ship as well as they tend to get more “crazy” in the bag, this is where sedative products such as Tranquil shine and where Breather Bags generally fail miserably (they cannot be doubled and break easier).

Back to smaller fish (generally under 4-5 inches); products such as Jungle Bag Buddies help here with mild sedatives (not as strong as Tranquil) can help as well as Kordon’s Fish Protector and again even Wonder Shell fragments as these naturally add important minerals necessary for slime coat generation and are a natural Redox Reducer too.

Useful Fish Shipping Products:

Methylene Blue
Used for transportation (shipping) of fish as it prevents disease spread and is a hemoglobin transfer agent allowing more oxygen in crowded environments. MB also treats ammonia and nitrite poisoning which is a common in shipping.

Wonder Shells;
Not commonly thought of as a shipping product, HOWEVER I have found excellent results in the use of Wonder Shell Fragments in a shipping bag as Wonder Shells compliment Methylene Blue and Fish Calmers by addressing a major cause of fish death from shipping and the pH shock and mineral depletion

Product Resource: Wonder Shells; Premium Version ONLY from AAP

AAP Shieldex & Res-Q

AAP Shieldex is a Vitamin E fortified protective, stress relief and disease preventing slime coat treatment for ALL fish.
Shieldex in particular is one of the finest water conditioners to remove toxic elements and place a slime shield on fish. Compare quality/slipperiness and concentration with other products.

Although AAP Sheidex & Res-Q Protector also removes heavy metals such as lead, copper, and arsenic, these do NOT remove necessary elements such as Calcium and magnesium found in Wonder Shells

Bag Buddies
This fish calmer comes in tablets and protects fish by reducing stress, promoting slime coat, removing chlorine and chloramine, neutralizing harmful metals and adding beneficial electrolytes.
Plus, with the added fish calmer, fish stress is further reduced. Just one tablet in fish bag water also releases oxygen into the fish bag and ensures fish arrive home safely, in quality condition and better overall health.

AquaCalm (Metomidate hydrochloride) by Syndel Laboratories LTD
AquaClam is a Sedative and acts on the central nervous system, other compounds work only on the peripheral nervous system. This product blocks the stress response, other compounds either have no effect on stress or increase stress.

Once your Fish Arrive:

Please read this article section for "A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention" as to the best way to acclimate your fish once they arrive:
NEW ARRIVALS/ACCLIMATION

SUMMARY

As I hope the reader gathered from this article (which I will surely update as I gather more information, new products/methods), or simply for better clarity; I have not necessarily recommended any one method as there are many options.
Shipping larger volumes of fish involves different practices than single or a few fish (which is why Breather Bags can be a good or bad choice).
Also a large crazy fish such as some Arowana can require different handling and products to add or use.

I will comment on the method that has worked best for me for shipping via bags (it also works for containers in tank moving as well).
That is Methylene Blue along with Wonder Shell fragments and of course following the other tips as well such as withholding feedings, slow drip, etc. Use of these products addresses some of the most dangerous and important aspects of shipping.
You can also combine Methylene Blue and Wonder Shells with products such as “Aqua-Derm” or “Fish Protector” for even more potential benefits, although “Bag Buddies” should not be combined with Aqua-Derm, Fish Protector, AquaCalm, or Methylene Blue as they overlap too much in what they do to the fish.

I do disagree with one sided statements/opinions that I have heard that AquaDerm or similar products are best. This is quite bluntly comparing apples to oranges and leaves out the dangers of ammonia poisoning or pH shock that other products do address.
Unfortunately these persons that state this are not only ignoring the major killers of shipped fish, but by such bold statements are ignoring the many variables that go into shipping.

Other Suggested Resources, Products

*
AQUARIUM AND POND INFORMATION;
Well researched and up to date aquarium and pond answers, help, and links

How Aquarium Medications Work

*
UV Sterilization
This article covers many aspects of Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilization from how, why, facts, myths, and maintenance including the importance of changing UV Bulbs regularly.

UV Bulbs; Page 1
As noted above, changing these PREMIUM bulbs/lamps every 6-12 months is essential for a properly functioning UV Sterilizer

*Aquarium Silicone Sealant; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!

"Clay Neighbor's AAP All Natural" Premium Optimized Custom Fish Food Crumbles
Made in the USA & sold out of Oregon;
Superior to ALL other fish Foods in quality of optimization of ingredients!

Aquarium Lighting
The above referenced article is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Aquarium Lighting to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!

*Columnaris in Aquarium Fish (also Fungus)
As with the "Aquarium Lighting " article, this is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Columnaris and Fish Fungus to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

Aquarium Size, Fish Stunting, sizing formulas

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 23:33:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/13/19

Determining The Maximum Aquarium Size For The Fish To Be Kept (including ALL factors, not just inches per gallon); As Well As Fish Stunting:

Quick "Jump" Index:

Overview
Stunting
Aquarium Sizing
Overview

A lot of controversy surrounds the subject about tank size, often resulting well intentioned but incomplete advice being given.
This often a controversial subject among aquarists, especially well intentioned advanced aquarists, often resulting in confused aquarists (both beginner and even advanced).

One aspect is often missed and that is that although the gallons per fish rule is a good starting point, there is vastly more that goes into this subject (please see the section later in this article about aquarium sizing).
Also it is important to note that there is no denying that the bigger an aquarium you can afford, maintain or have space for the better for many good reasons!
BUT I have kept MANY aquariums under a variety of conditions and monitored them in controlled experiments and often a small aquarium can work for what many might consider over crowded conditions providing there is excellent filtration, cleaning maintenance, circulation, feeding procedures (and quality food), chemistry, etc.

For example you I can state categorically that 10 gallon aquarium with (2) 2 inch goldfish that is well maintained with a hang on the back (power) and a sponge filter will out have vastly better water parameters than a 20 gallon with the same goldfish that is poorly maintained with a corner bubbler filter.

Product Resources:
*AAP/SeaChem Tidal Premium HOB Filter
*Hydro-Sponge Patented Sponge filters

Similar to the points I have laid out in my “Aquarium Disease Prevention Article”, the more steps you follow beside the very basic amount of fish per gallon rule/suggestion, the more fish you can stock in a given aquarium.
Reference: Aquarium Disease Prevention; Steps for a Healthy Aquatic Environment

For example, I kept a 60 gallon Feeder Goldfish tank that often had over 500 goldfish at a time in it.
Is this over crowded?
Certainly, however I kept water parameters good by virtue of twice daily water changes, positive ion mineralization (such as calcium that is often ignored), large amounts of filtration. In the case of the aquarium I am speaking of, a larger tower fluidized filter along with a canister filter and air stones, and finally UV Sterilization, which I cannot say enough about.
This of coarse is an extreme example and NOT meant for long term fish keeping, only VERY short term. My point is I have kept similar Feeder tanks without the same procedures, filtration, etc. and the water parameters were NEVER as good.

Further References:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Depletion of Positive Mineral Ions
*About Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilization

As a more “Real World” example is all the controlled trials I performed (mostly using goldfish at the Bahooka Restaurant and Coaster Co. of America, which between the two clients I had over 140 aquariums).
Many of the trials involved filters and stocking and measuring the results and I often found better water parameters, and MUCH healthier fish in the smaller tanks that were maintained with the same number of fish as with the tanks that were often more than twice their size.

The difference was much better filtration, correct chemistry including GH & KH, better maintenance, and UV Sterilization.
All of these also have an affect on Aquarium Redox which is a major indicator of tank health as a healthy Redox Balance normally shifts a little between night and day, but an unhealthy Redox balance will often have large swings or have unusually high or low ORP numbers according to a Redox Neter.

References:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Basic to Advanced
*Aquarium Redox
*Aquarium Redox ORP Meter

I should make one more point as per determining if a tank is too crowded or not (which was noted earlier about twice daily water changes), and that is the water change schedule. In fact if “flow through” water change methods are employed correctly, this can greatly increase the amount of fish the tank can hold (assuming you are not trying to keep a 12 inch arowana in a 20 gallon tanks where other issues then arise). This is possible in part due to improved Redox, mineralization and low hormone levels from the fish since these are removed via the constant changes of water.
See this article:
Aquarium Cleaning; Methods

Stunting;

It may seem like I am promoting situations that would induce stunting, but I am NOT.
I am referring to fish populations that can live comfortably within their surroundings and with their tank mates, or in the case of goldfish, knowing that anything less than an 8-10 gallon for short to medium term is not healthy, while a 20 gallon PLUS is much better for the long term.

Stunting would involve placing a baby Arowana or Quetzal Cichlid (or similar cichlid that will easily grow to 12 plus inches) in a 20 gallon aquarium.
Stunting IS CRUEL, and at the very least does not allow the fish to reach its full potential, including lifespan.

There are many theories that go into what happens biologically in stunting, here are a few thoughts:

Often the tanks these fish are in have high nitrates which are converted into nitrites in the bloodstream and weakens the fish.
See this article: "Aquarium Nitrates, about"

A poor Redox Balance is often observed.
Reference: Aquarium Redox

Hormones excreted from the fish inhibit growth (and lifespan), which are more concentrated in a tank too small for the fish there in contained.

Picture Examples of potentially over crowded aquariums
Both these pictures are photo-shopped examples, not actual aquariums.

In this photo-shopped example a Quetzal Cichlid (vieja synspila) is shown in a 14 gallon Bio Cube. This fish has NO chance of long term or even short term viability due to its large size, inability to move around, and inability to carry out its natural behaviors.
Honestly this picture needs little explanation.

In this photo-shopped example, we have an aquarium that is a potential short to medium term problem and a definite long term problem.
The difference short term to medium term is filtration and maintenance. This is a viable tank while the goldfish are still young with good filtration/maintenance.

This tank shown has a built in wet/dry and separate Sponge Filter that has the pump directing water out to a 7 watt Terminator UV Sterilizer and back in.
If this tank was stocked with fish such as Platties that have no chance of out growing/stunting, this set up could easily handle a higher what is considered “Normal” number of fish.

Product Resource: AAP, Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers

Advantages for an Under Stocked Aquarium
Before it seems that I am advocating an over–crowded aquarium, I most certainly am not.

Here are a few benefits of an under stocked aquarium:

Less concern about cleaning schedules and missing a cleaning due to a busy schedule.

More likely to have a stable chemistry, without intervention; this includes a stable pH, KH, GH as well as low ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

Better disease resistance

When diseases do find their way into the aquarium, they are much less likely to spread like “wildfire” in an un-crowded aquarium

Generally longer lifespans for the fish

BASICS OF AQUARIUM SIZING

(Expanded information from “Freshwater Aquarium Basics”)

Start with as large an aquarium as you can afford and have space for (even for bettas).
The very BASIC principle that is to have 1-2 inches of NARROW bodied fish per FILTERED aquarium gallon is a starting point, but not very accurate.
This also only applies to a standard rectangular aquarium. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple this with them, in fact for long term goldfish health, one goldfish per 8 gallons (30 liters) is best for long term health and "grow out".

Obviously longer fish need more tank width and length. I would decrease the amount of fish proportional to the gallons in a tall aquarium or hexagon aquarium.
Remember, many fish purchased can grow much larger than your original purchase size (ex: goldfish), so keep this in mind too.

To figure your tank size get your tank length, height, and width in inches then apply this formula (multiple all dimensions):
L x H x W = X;
Then divide X by 231
This gives you exact gallons of the tank.
In round tanks or unusual shapes you will have to extrapolate.
To convert gallons to liters multiply by 3.785
Example: a 20 gallon tank = 75 liters.

What is much more important in determining how many fish you should add to your aquarium are these factors:

The amount of surface area relative to the gallons of water the aquarium holds.
I have observed many tall narrow aquariums over the years of my maintenance service where the filtration and other factors were equal to comparable sized and stocked rectangular aquariums, that general fish health and longevity were lower.

Type of fish; such as fish that naturally produce more waste (partly due to the type of food they eat) such as goldfish where one fish per 8+ gallons are better, however small goldfish can be kept in a smaller aquarium with the aquarist knowing that this is short term housing.

Fish such as an Arowana that stays primarily on the surface will need a disproportionately large aquarium (I recommend 200 + gallons for just one Arowana). And as pointed out earlier, you cannot compare a heavy bodied cichlid for instance to a narrow bodied tetra of similar length (and again consider what Cichlid will grow to!!)

Filtration & Circulation; a properly filtered aquarium (good bio filtration, good mechanical filtration, and good circulation) with multiple aquarium filters is important.
Good filtration with quality well maintained filters can go a long ways in allowing an otherwise small aquarium to hold more fish.

See this article for more about Aquarium filtration: “Aquarium Filtration, Filters, About”

Product Resource: Only the Best in Aquarium Filters; Economy & Premium

Maintenance schedule that includes regular efficient water changes. Good cleaning routines (20% water changes with a gravel vacuum once per week or two).
If you have nitrates that struggle to stay below 40-50 ppm, you probably have an over stocked aquarium (especially if there are live plants!).

Also a kH and pH that starts out at proper levels, but then drops quickly after water changes and/or addition of stabilizing chemicals or products such as Wonder Shells can indicate over stocking (as well as other problems such as mulm buildup).
Reference: Aquarium Chemistry

Using “flow through” water changes where by a small amount of water being is constantly being changed can allow for much more stocking if done correctly as this allows for improved Redox and considerably lowers hormones in the water.
See this article in the section about flow through cleanings: Aquarium Cleaning; Methods

Product Resource: Wonder Shells; Premium Version from AAP

Well maintained water chemistry; including GH, KH and Redox not just low ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. This is an area of aquarium keeping that is often missed even by advanced aquarists since many are not ware of the effect on overcrowding a tank with low electrolytes or an unbalanced Redox have.

New or experienced aquarist; a new aquarist needs to start with a much less crowded aquarium.

Proper feeding; Over feeding and/or feeding a poor diet that is mostly passed through the fish’ digestive tract due to low digestibility is a major cause of pollution, leading to high DOC, high nitrates, unstable pH, and poor Redox Balance.
All of which will make an otherwise un-crowded aquarium become overloaded as per bio load and capacity.
Further Reference: Bio Load in Aquarium or Pond

Even UV Sterilization will improve bio load as it improves Redox balance and immunity as well as simply lowering DOC (Dissolved organic compounds.

For further, related information, please read this article:
Aquarium UV Sterilization; Information

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Fish Nutrition Facts; Fresh or Saltwater Aquarium

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Sponge Filtration; Complete Sponge Filter Use Information

*Aquarium Silicone; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!

TMC Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with Oolitic Sand also maintain essential marine aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more

SeaChem Prime

Prime is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime removes chlorine and chloramines. Prime converts ammonia into a safe non toxic form that is readily removed by the tanks bio filter. Prime can be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the bio filter to more efficiently remove them

Economy Submersible Aquarium, Fountain Pumps; SunSun JP-033
A better, UPDATED version of the Via Aqua 302 with SUPERIOR Performance, unlike other pumps sold elsewhere as a replacement

SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump; replaces Via Aqua 1300
This pump replaces the Via Aqua 1300 and other copies such as by AquaTop as the Premier Power Head Pump for Aquariums, Ponds, Fountains, Wet/Dry Filters. This pump is submersible with Mag drive & ceramic shaft

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

Aquarium Algae Control; Brown Diatom, Hair, Marine, BBA, Green Spot & Water

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 17:47:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Brown Diatom Algae
Common Green Algae (aka Dust Algae)
Thread/Hair Algae
Green Water
Marine Hair Algae (Green Filamentous Algae)
BBA, Black Brush Algae, Black Beard Algae, Red Brush Algae
Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae)
Planted Aquarium; Summary
Including: Whole Tank Algae Treatment using H2O2 & Glutaral Dehyde

FORWARD:
This Aquarium Answers article (post) is not intended as a complete algae control article, but is intended to address the types of algae that I receive the most questions about which are Brown Diatom Algae, Freshwater Thread/Hair Algae, Black Beard Brush Algae (BBA), and Marine Hair Algae aka Filamentous marine algae (I address other algae as well in this article). I will add to and update this article as well over time.

The information contained herein is based on my experience with literally 1000s of contract client aquariums over the years, as well as research, and feedback from other aquarium keeping professionals.
Please note that algae control is NOT an exact science and there are many methods I have not used or researched that may also work. As well, my methods may not work as well for some as all it often takes is new/different variable for an algae control method to be less effective.
It is is also noteworthy that one should start with a healthy bio filter; meaning an aquarium that is not battling high ammonia & nitrites. Many of the methods cited here for algae control address the bio filter, but some do not and those that do should be used first based on my experience.
As well, one common thread as to aquarium algae issues that emerged of late is the common use of poorly designed Chinese made LEDs that do not understand the basics of aquarium lighting PUR, often having too much light in the "blue" spectrums

The bottom line is I do not claim that this article is the "end all" for algae control, but I do think the majority of readers will find this article useful, often with information not found elsewhere.

Updated 5/10/20

Brown/Diatom Algae

Brown Algae is not considered a true algae as per many biologists, rather a diatom. However under the 5 Kingdom classification system both Brown Diatoms and more common algae fall into the "grab bag" Kingdom; "Proctotista", although Brown Diatom Algae fall into the division Bacillariophyceae.

What is also noteworthy is there is evidence of some diatom "algae" as a green colored slime like algae instead of the much more common brown diatom algae that is a common problem with new aquariums.

This has been called "Green Snot Algae" (scientific name Didymosphenia geminata) and is becoming more common in streams just under the surface and/or covering rocks (pictured to the right).
Also commonly known as didymo, this is a rapidly spreading invasive species of diatom.

References:
Wikipedia; Didymosphenia geminata
Didymo risk goes beyond green snot in rivers

What are Diatoms?
Diatoms also single-cell organisms but are significantly larger and more complicated than cyanobacteria. They have cell walls containing silica. The individual cells are yellow-green to brown. They contain two types of chlorophyll and at some stage in their life cycles have motile stages which move by the action of one or two tiny beating hairs called flagella.

Most diatoms show very limited mobility and exist primarily as groups of cells growing a strong film over the surface of object.
Note, cyanobacteria can mimic Brown Diatom Algae, but cyanobacteria are readily swept away with little effort while Brown Diatom Algae is not.

In low concentrations they probably don't have any noticeable effect in aquarium systems, and indeed they are probably always present.
These diatom cells are encased within a unique cell wall made of silica (hydrated silicon dioxide). The yellowish-brown chloroplasts within Brown Diatom algae are what give this “algae” its typical appearance.
Brown Diatoms are found in fresh and saltwater as well as soil. Diatoms are a major component of plankton, free-floating microorganisms of marine or freshwater environments.

Not all diatoms float freely though; many may cling to surfaces such as aquatic plants, gravel, décor, molluscs, and crustaceans.
Brown Diatom Algae are dependent upon silicates and high DOC (dissolved organic compounds) in the water and thrive in conditions where the minerals and Redox are out of balance. Brown diatom algae also out compete more desirable green algae in these conditions when light is poor for healthy photosynthesis due to lack adequate amounts of light in the proper PAR.

More about poor lighting: light in the proper PAR

With the above points in mind, I will again emphasize that Brown Diatoms MUST have silicates present to reproduce, although removal of all silicates is often not feasible. In many of the methods (outlined in the removal tips below), the aquarist can lower the available silicates such as by simply adding plants or encouraging green algae to grow which will out compete the Brown diatoms.

From the Aquarium Answers article; “Aquarium Test Kits” here are some silicate parameters:
Natural seawaters contain silicates around 10 ppm however due to differences in a closed system (which an aquarium is) and the ocean it is best to maintain silicates under 1 ppm in an aquarium to prevent diatom blooms and aid in uptake of essential elements such as Strontium by corals.
Reference: Aquarium Test Kits; Information, Review

Product Resource: Salifert Silicate/Silica Test Kit

In freshwater, silicates are generally between 4-20 ppm and should be kept under 4 ppm in an aquarium, although usually this is not a problem in healthy established freshwater aquariums where lighting is good to encourage plants or green algae (both of which will starve also consume silicates limiting diatom growth).

This is a common algae in new aquariums (including marine tanks), especially aquariums that have not fully cycled as this leaves many available nutrients for these diatoms.
If an established aquarium struggles with these diatoms, this is often an indicator of excessive silica, poor mineral/electrolyte balance, an unstable biological aquarium environment, which in turn is often caused by poor filtration, poor cleaning procedures, Redox balance, inadequate aquarium lighting or over medication.

Finally as per Silicates, do NOT confuse these with silicon/silica, as the later is inert while Silicates are not!
Silicate is made up of silicon, oxygen, and metals such as aluminium.

Keeping healthy aquarium resources:
Aquarium Cleaning, Methods, Reasons, Procedures
Aquarium Redox Potential, Reduction, Oxidation
Aquarium Lighting, PAR, lumens, CRI, watts, types and more

Here are a few tips (suggestions) for eradication of Brown Diatom Algae (in no particular order of importance):

Use re-mineralized RO or RO/DI water if silicates are high in tap water.
For saltwater 100% RO or DI water use is fine for both mixing with marine salt mix or topping off for evaporation.
HOWEVER in freshwater I do not generally recommend 100% use of RO or DI water, rather blended water and even then it is best to re-mineralize with products such as AAP Wonder Shells, and check the KH and adjust accordingly with products such as SeaChem Buffer or even SeaChem Cichlid salt which has other important minerals and KH enhancing carbonates as well.

Be wary of websites that recommend the use of RO or DI water without re-mineralization for anything other than evaporation top offs as this can eventually lead to fish osmoregulation issues and poor Redox Balance.

Further Recommended Reading:
*Aquarium Fish Osmoregulation
*Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums

Product Resources:
Original AAP Wonder Shells
SeaChem Alkaline Buffer
SeaChem Cichlid salt

Along the same line of thought as the previous points, the use of products such as PhosBond or Phos-Zorb which removes silicates (and phosphates as well) can help rid your tank of the silicates brown diatom algae must have to survive.
PhosBond uses a synergistic combination that combines the safety of aluminum oxide and the higher phosphate removing capabilities of ferric oxide.

Where to find:
PhosBond from AAP
Phos-Zorb from AAP

Turning over gravel daily by hand and/or with a gravel vacuum slow the spread of Brown Diatom Algae.

A healthy, established nitrogen cycle is essential for control of Brown Diatoms.
Good bio filtration can aid in this too, as often tanks I have seen suffering with brown algae (both marine and freshwater) have less than optimum bio filtration. A Fluidized Sand Bed Filter or even a Good Sponge Filter can help for this.

More information on:
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
TMC Sand Bed Filter
Premium Sponge Filter
The use of UV Sterilization will also slow the spread of free floating diatoms and aids in the improvement of Redox Balance which is also important.
If UV Sterilizers are employed in your aquarium it is also important that these devices have their UV Bulbs replaced every six months, otherwise your UV Sterilizer will cease being effective.

Sterilizer Resources:
*The Process of UV Sterilization
*UVC Replacement Bulbs
*AAP/TMC Vecton/Advantage Premium Category 'A' UV Sterilizers

Correct lighting as per the amount in lumens and the correct PAR/PUR often usually found at about 6500 Kelvin (an incorrect PUR along with poor PAR is often the problem when lighting is the reason behind Brown Diatom Algae growth in established aquariums).
Generally lighting around 9-12 hours per day is adequate. This will allow green algae and plants to out compete the Brown Diatoms.

In marine tanks this may also indicate inadequate lumens of this high PAR light energy present in the aquarium, so even if the correct lighting is used, you may need higher energy lights (for both fresh & saltwater) such as LED Aquarium Lights or SHO Lights.

Product Resources:
*AAP/TMC PREMIUM HO Aquarium LED Lights
*SHO Lights for Aquarium, Hydroponics

Live plants (or green marine to algae in saltwater tanks) “out compete” diatoms

Cut back on feeding or switch to higher quality foods that is less likely to produce high amounts of wastes and may also be high in silicates.

Use near boiling water on décor, rocks (not gravel), plastic plants, etc. This is VERY effective in killing brown diatoms while at the same time allowing the establishment of healthy green algae that will often survive this procedure. I have used this method for years with excellent results.

For freshwater aquariums, the addition of salt (sodium chloride) can aid in the control of many algae (not just Brown Diatom), however too much salt can interfere with your live plants (if you have them in the first place). I would recommend starting low, especially if live plants are present at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons and then slowly increasing if needed.

Snails, especially Nerite Snails (for FW OR SW).
Please see the section on snails for further links/information in this article:
"Aquarium Plants; Oto Catfish, Snails"

Oto Catfish, Otocinclus affinis , or Bristlenose Plecsostumus are fish that MAY remove and keep this algae in check in a planted tank ( I prefer Nirite snails though)

Correct proper mineralization with products such as Wonder Shells or other mineral blocks. Maintaining a correct KH, pH, and GH balance is a good place to start as well. The use of balanced buffers in marine tanks such as SeaChem Marine Buffer is highly suggested.

More information on correct aquarium parameters:
Aquarium Chemistry; Electrolytes, GH, pH, GH, Calcium

Patience and time (about 8-12 weeks) for new tanks, often this is all it takes for a new tank.

Please note that the suggestions using boiling water, algae eaters, and snails are methods to bring Brown Diatoms under control, however after the being "patient" with a new tank for a few months or in the case of established aquariums, these suggestions are meant for control and if their continued use is still needed this indicates other issues that need to be addressed such as organic load (DOC), lighting, mineralization, Redox, etc.

Common Green Algae (Sometimes referred to as Dust Algae)

This is the most common algae in established freshwater aquariums with or without plants.
This is the algae that coats the front and side glass. It's generally a good sign if that is the only algae that is noticeable in your tank. Generally simply scraping the glass and rinsing off plastic plants with a 1/25 bleach/water solution (followed by a rinsing with de-chlorinators and water) prior to your water change is all that's needed to control this easy to control.

Green Spot Algae

These are hard circular algae spots that take hard scrubbing too remove from the tank glass.
Moderate to high phosphate limited tanks have more problems with green spot algae on plants.

Green Spot Algae is often eliminated with increasing phosphate levels in your water. Try to maintain at least 0.3 to 0.5 of phosphates throughout the week and more preferable is in the range of 1.0 - 2.0 ppm of phosphates (however this algae is considered normal in small amounts).

Correct lighting has also been reported by many to lower the incidence of Green Spot Algae, although not eliminate it totally.
By "correct" lighting I do NOT mean necessarily more lighting, rather lighting that hits the best possible PUR with as little of yellow, and a more balanced red and green spectrum.
Reference this other article from Aquarium Answers:
PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting

Some Plecostomus such as the Rubbernose may help, however these fish may also damage plants as well.

Reference:
Control of Aglae in Planted Aquaria

Thread/Hair Algae (also Blanket Weed Algae more commonly found in Ponds, may look & respond very similarly)

Most Thread/Hair algae grow extremely fast. Most of the time hair algae come into an aquarium attached to the plant you purchased (I have seen it many times attached to the root structure of Java Fern). It can also come in as some floating fragments in the water with newly purchased fish. As well Hair Algae may be attached to snail shells (often in hard to see tiny “hairs”).
Some aquarium keepers believe that hair algae comes into an aquarium in spores and this may be how it spreads (airborne spores are more likely a problem with a pond), however there is no hard evidence to support this idea; likely the Hair Algae was probably there all the time in vegetative form, but there wasn't enough of it to be noticed until it multiplied under the right conditions.

Please click on the picture to enlarge for a better view

You can manually remove handfuls every couple of days. After eliminating this type of algae is it a good idea to add an algae eating crew.

There are many fish that may help with this;
Rosy Barbs, American-Flag Fish, Amano Shrimp, Bristlenose Plecostomus, even Platties.

Other Suggestions for control:

A 3% bleach solution to dip new plants in for about 4 minutes can kill and thus prevent the introduction of hair algae (this can kill new plants growths on the plant dipped, so this should be expected).

SeaChem Flourish Excel or better, NilocG's more professional formulation in "Enhance" has worked for some with this algae.

Product Resource: AAP NilocG Enhance

High levels of iron (1 ppm or more) have also been linked to thread algae. Discontinue liquid Iron Supplements, consider the use of plant soils or Root Tabs for this nutrient in planted aquariums as excess iron can encourage hair algae growth. Iron also can come in from tap/well water.

QUOTE:
"A couple months ago I e-mailed a note to a biology professor at the local University, asking if dissolved organic carbon released by stressed plants could feed algal growth. In his reply he indicated (among other things) that he expected either phosphorus or iron to control algae growth in an aquarium.
Further, folks using PMDD have testified repeatedly that iron levels over 0.1 mg/l can cause hair algae outbreaks (as an aside, if high iron can cause algae outbreaks in a tank fed with PMDD, then phosphorus is not the limiting nutrient).
To top it off, Diana Walstad in her new book argues strongly that low iron concentrations can be an effective control on algae growth."
Reference: Hair Algae and Iron

As with in ponds with hair & blanket weed algae, I have found magnets simply placed strategically in high water flow areas can actually help control these types of algae.

SeaChem Resource:
*Flourish Excel
*SeaChem Flourish Plant Root Tabs

Checking the introduction of Hair Algae (prevention) is key, as most of the time hair algae will be introduced attached to a purchased live plant.
Hair Algae may come in attached to the shells of snails, rocks collected from river/lakes, or similar. It can also come in as some floating fragments in the water containing a newly purchased fish.
There are many anecdotal stories about how a particular form of hair algae suddenly showed up in somebody's aquarium that has resulted in many believing this is the primary cause of spread, which is incorrect.
Actually, it was probably there all the time in vegetative form attached in a minute form to a plant root, rock, snail shell, etc.

Generally, while a UV Sterilizer can help aid in the spread of many algae, this is generally not the case with hair algae since it does not spread via spores and thus UV Sterilizers do not help.
This said, a true level 1 capable UV Sterilizer such as the Aqua and TMC UVs can help with Redox Balance, other algae control, and over all fish health (many sold on Amazon are not level 1 capable), so these devices are a good investment no serious aquarium keeper should be without, despite what some cut & paste anecdotal websites state.

As with Brown Algae, I have had good success with the boiling of decorative rocks, driftwood or any other "non-living" surface of hair (thread) algae attachment. Furthermore I have found after this that live plants will thrive more and better out compete so the thread/hair algae is slower to return.

As with BBA, there is some evidence that too much light in the blue spectrum allows hair algae to out compete plants, so a tank with balanced 6500K daylight lighting is recommended and discontinue the use of any actinic/blue lights if used or the use of high Kelvin daylight lamps (such as 14,000K) in all but the deepest aquariums (higher Kelvin daylight lights may be used with 6400 -6500K for better water penetration in tanks over 24 inches deep).

If you have 10,000k or higher lighting in a tank under 24 inches I would strongly suggest switching to TRUE 6400-6500k lights (not blended, as there is a difference in spectral quality) such as the AAP SHO 6400K lights or the AAP/TMC GroBeam 6500k LED Lights.
Lighting Product Resources:
T2 6400K lights
TMC GroBeam Correct Spectrum 6500k LED Lights

GREEN WATER

Green water in aquariums is caused by free floating algae.

Common Causes:

High waste particulate matter in the water column (DOC), which over crowding, over feeding.
As well, improper feeding, using poor quality food that is mostly passed thru the fish, made up usually of non-aquatic amino acids and too much cereal.

Nutrients in the water column (related to the previous cause) such as Nitrates and phosphates; Nitrates should be under 40 ppm and phosphates as close to 0 as possible.
Reference: Aquarium Nitrates Control

Poor water chemistry, GH or kH to low, these are best above 100 and 50 ppm respectively depending upon fish kept. Thes can in turn affect Redox Balance which can play a minor role in a green water algae outbreak.
pH should be stable and above 6.5 in most cases. A falling or low pH combined with higher nitrates can indicate high organic decomposition in an aquarium which is a major factor in producing green algae blooms in the water column.

Aquarium not fully cycled; this is a common cause and often shows as elevated ammonia and nitrite levels. This is a common factor, if not the most common factor.
So if ammonia or nitrites are high, lowering these parameters should be followed first before ANY other steps!

Reference: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

Intense or incorrect lighting; the use of household standard light bulbs or cool white Fluorescents can contribute to poor lighting that encourages “pea soup” water.
Also placement of the aquarium at or near a window can also be a MAJOR contributing factor to this problem.

Corrective Measures for Green Water:

20% water change (or more) using a Gravel Vacuum (especially to remove nitrogenous waste (organic mulm) than often accumulates under rocks or UGF plates).
The use of products such as the Eheim Sludge Remover can help in between water changes (but these do NOT take the place of a water change)
Product Resource: Eheim Sludge Remover Vacuum

Add a UV Sterilizer.
A UV Sterilizer is almost 100% effective in the eradication of green (pea soup) water, so if you can afford this option, I would use one.
A UV Sterilizer can be basic such as the SunSun Internal/Submersible or top notch such as the TMC 8 Watt Vecton, of which a top notch UV such as the Vecton can go a long ways in aiding in Redox Balance and disease prevention and is highly recommended.
Please click on the picture above/left for a larger view of the same aquarium shown earlier after a quality, properly installed UV Sterilizer was added
Where to get Quality TRUE UV Sterilizers:
AAP Internal/Submersible UV Pump
TMC Ultraviolet Sterilizer

Make sure your Nitrates are below 40 ppm (or less), and your phosphates as close to 0 as possible.
Consider products such as Algone

Lower you fish stocking.

Electrolytes (mineral cations) such as those of magnesium and calcium. Wonder Shells are useful here so is aragonite/oolitic sand in the filter.

Product Resources:
*Wonder Shell; Premium AAP Unique Version
*Oolitic Sand for FSB Filter

Cut back on feeding and improve food quality. Better choices: HBH, Spirulina 20, AquaMasters just to name a few.
For more about proper feeding.
Please read this article: Fish Nutrition; Correct Ingredients

Increase circulation and dissolved oxygen.

Move your tank to a different location if near a window (being next to a window is often major contributing factor).
Improve lighting to TRUE (not blended) 6400-6500K lights if low quality lights are an issue such as the AAP GroBeam LED or the Compact Fluorescent Aquarium Lights, both are available in 6500 K.

As noted in the previous section (hair algae), Magnets can be added to your filter or water lines (place away from the impeller in HOB or similar filter). Magnets work by removing iron from the water that free floating algae need for photosynthesis.
I recommend care in using magnets in tanks with live plants, although green water is often less of a problem in these tanks.

Add aquatic plants to compete with the free floating algae for nutrients, light.

Add copper or products such as Medicated Wonder Shells that contain Copper and Methylene Blue that kill free floating algae, however even if this corrects the problem, this more addresses the symptoms than the cause from my experience.

Marine Hair Algae (Green Filamentous Algae)

Although not the problem or scourge that red slime (Cyanobacteria), this algae can over take an aquarium in short order and is often an indicator of high nitrates and phosphates.
Although I consider algae growth generally an indicator of a healthy marine aquarium, normally I recommend less problematic algae such as the Macro-Algae as your measure for success.

Macro-algae is the 'plant' and encrusting algae that you see in many experienced saltwater aquarists marine tanks.
Caulerpa spp, encrusting corallines (a group of Red algae resembling corals), Bubble Algae aka; Valonia macroalgae (although bubble algae can become problem algae on occasion as well) are examples here.
Other beneficial algae that do not take over an aquarium include Green Gracillaria algae as these green algae are beneficial for nitrate reduction without the “overbearing problems of Green Filamentous algae which tends to take over an aquarium, often squeezing out your polyps, mushrooms, etc.

Suggestions for control:

For Filamentous marine algae (hair algae), I would recommend changing water with marine salt mixed with RO water only.

The use of Phosphate reducing products can aid considerably with many marine aquarium algae problems.
NPX Bio-Plastics can reduce both nitrates and Phosphates.

Another popular product for phosphates only is Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO).
HOWEVER the use of this product can compromise your alkaline reserve and lower your pH to dangerous levels for many marine reef inhabitants, so use with careful monitoring of these parameters.

Product Resource for: NPX Bio-Plastics

Consider a deep sand bed in your aquarium (if not already present) or a separate deep sand/refugium tank for nitrate removal.

See more in this article in the Live Rock Section:
Saltwater Aquarium Basics; Live Rock, Sand, Nitrate Removal

Lower your bio load, either directly by lowering the amount of inhabitants and/or indirectly via additional filters.

See Also: Bio Load in Aquarium or Pond

Adding a protein skimmer if one is not already present.

Suggested Premium Product: TMC High Performance Protein Skimmer

Better cleaning procedures (including maintaining a 1/4 to 1/2" layer of #3 crushed coral on top of your fine sand bed for ease of trapping detritus and then cleaning).

Finally I would suggest a clean up crew of creatures such as Trochus, Nerite, and Turbo Snails.

BBA/Black Brush Algae/Black Beard Algae/Red Algae

Technically this is a type of red algae, but that classification does not define its appearance.
This unwanted algae that is often the "scurge" of many planted aquarium keepers grows in feathery black or red tufts 2-3 mm long, and often shows up on older parts of plants and on slower-growing plants like Anubias, Amazon Swords, and some Echinodorus.

Black beard/brush algae is a form of "red algae" in the genus Audouinella that commonly attaches to edges of plant leaves or drift wood and is more common in low CO2 water conditions, that are low in most minerals (although often high in iron), carbonates, and pH, although these algae will also grow in alkaline, high pH waters as well.
(Click on the picture to the left for another view)

This is in my opinion is the most aggravating freshwater algae I know of and I have not found a 100% magic bullet for this as of yet, although of late based on feedback of many other experts in the field, good quality lighting seems to make a big difference.
I also have plant keeping friends in hobby and profession that also want to pull their hair out when it comes to this algae, but these are the persons that have told me of late that switching from lighting such as T5 to high quality LEDs has made a big difference

This furry, thread-like flora attaches to various aquarium surfaces including the edges of plant leaves, filter tubes and even gravel. It may have many colors (purple, gray-green, black) and resembles beard hair or fur.
In the aquarium literature, this nuisance is often called beard or brush algae.

Most aquarists consider BBA to come in three forms;

The long thread variety is called beard algae
The shorter thread type is called brush algae
And a third type is described as having very short threads and forms dark semi-round spots.

Physically removing rocks and wood that have these algae on it and then scrubbing it off will also give plants a better chance of utilizing nutrients and over coming these algae.

The use of Sea Chem Flourish Excel often in double or even higher doses has been shown to be occasionally helpful in control of this algae (although not as well as some other algae such as Hair Algae).
Part of the reason for some effectiveness by Flourish Excel (or better, AAP NilocG Enhance) is that this product slows algae growth on plant leaves allowing the plant to out compete the algae for nutrients (including carbon and light).

Another part of the reason behind some effectiveness by Flourish Excel is the Aldehyde based formula. Aldehyde are effected by oxidation which is another indicator of the importance of VERY regular but often small water changes (as much as 5-10% per day) to bring about a healthy Redox (among other methods of Redox control).
This admittedly is only a theory at this point, however I have observed vastly better algae control (of all sorts of algae) in ponds where I achieved a healthy Redox via flow through water changes, mineralization and a PROPERLY installed TRUE Level One UV Sterilizer (not a UV Clarifier ONLY such as many of the Submariner, AquaTop, etc.).

Reference: Redox in Aquarium

Product Resources:
SeaChem Flourish Excel from American Aquarium
*True Level 1 UV Sterilizers for Aquarium/Pond

A few ideas for removal/control of BBA
(Please see the summary of this article for more general algae control ideas that can apply to BBA as well)

Balance your ferts.
This includes iron at 0.1-0.5 ppm Iron (Fe) and a minimum of 75 ppm GH (4 dGH).
I strongly recommend the use of balanced ferts such as AAP Professional Treatment's "Grow-It", NilocG "Thrive All in One", or AAP "NPK" Macros AND Micros Set.

Resources:
*AAP Grow-It
*AAP NilocG Aquatics; Planted Tank Liquid Ferts

Do NOT use actinic lights or even 50/50 lights that contain actinic (blue) light as I have found BBA thrive on this light more than plants and will out compete with plants for essential nutrients, making it difficult to keep the leaves free of BBA.
I strongly recommend 6000-7000 K lights ONLY!

More importantly, a 6500K light with balanced red and blue spectrums, with as little yellow light spectrum as possible has been shown considerably of late to make a big difference in control of BBA.
To be VERY BLUNT, the light that has made a big difference has been the high output GroBeam LED lights, NOT standard Low output T8 or even many T5, and NOT the low end LEDs being peddled in many forums such as the Finnex and Fluval LED lights.

Here is an interesting quote a person who keeps many planted aquariums that I know that address the BBA issue:
"I use Flourish excel a couple times a week. Usually it is standard dosing but if an algae problem should arise I will on occasionally double or triple dose once. The BB algae issue has been MUCH less with the GroBeam LED lights than prior T5 lighting"

See this article for more: Aquarium Lighting; PAR

Recommended Product Resource:
American Aquarium GroBeam LED Lights

Why is this?
BBA algae in particular along with Cynobacteria and to a lessor degree all other photosynthetic algaes (including symbiotic zooxanthellae) have Phycobilisomes which are light harvesting antennae of photosystem II (Chlorophyll synthesis in the Photosynthic Action Spectrum-PAS).

This is noteworthy as each phycobiliprotein has a specific absorption and fluorescence emission maximum in the visible range of light. Consequently, their presence and the particular arrangement within the phycobilisomes allow absorption and unidirectional transfer of light energy to chlorophyll a of the photosystem II.
In this way, the cells take advantage of the available wavelengths of light in the 500-650 nm range, which are inaccessible to chlorophyll, and utilize their energy for photosynthesis.
This is particularly advantageous deeper in the water column, where light with longer wavelengths is less transmitted and therefore less available directly to chlorophyll.
So when we emulate this deeper water light, we provide an advantage to algae, in particular BBA, over plants that do not have these Phycobilisomes and thus cannot compete as well in necessary photosystem II (Chlorophyll synthesis).
This is why that while blue light carries more energy, we know based on these Phycobilisomes that there is more to light than just energetic photons and that certain wavelength are better for for certain photosynthetic life.
We can only over come this advantage of these algae by pumping copious & unusual amounts of CO2 & other nutrients (ferts) into our aquarium (assuming still some form of "white" light containing light within the higher PAS spikes for our aquatic plants, as if ONLY blue light is used, overcoming this advantage would be difficult if not impossible).

See the picture above/right of a Phycobilisome structure.
Reference; Wikipedia; Phycobilisome

Related to the above suggestion; some aquarium professionals I trust have reported some effectiveness in controlling BBA by setting lighting timers to include a 2 hour "OFF" cycle in the middle of the day (I personally have not done this to control BBA in my tanks).

I have also found (as in Brown Diatoms) that pouring near boiling water over decorations such as rocks or filter returns, etc. that have BBA on them works well for killing this algae while allowing establishment of much less onerous green algae.

Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE) are very good at keeping these algae in check (providing that there is not more tasty green algae or left over fish food).
Some other fish such as Platties and Rosy Barbs will occasionally snack on BBA as well.
Shrimp such as Amano and Cherry Shrimp.

As well as Nerite Snails can work for control of BBA (other snails may work, but may result in the "double edged sword" of a snail population explosion).

As noted earlier, low CO2 levels and incomplete fert use in planted aquariums has been reported by some to be a cause, so increasing your CO2 levels to at least 10 ppm (or more) along with a better fert dosing method may help.

Here is a product I would recommend for vastly better fert dosing (based on EI method):
AAP/NilocG EI Planted Aquarium Dosing

Trim and remove leaves from plants "losing the battle" to BBA. This more easily allows the plant to grow new leaves that will hopefully out compete the BBA assuming conditions right or are now improved for the plants.

The use of baths/dips for treatment of BBA:

Sea Chem Flourish Excel can be used as a quick dip solution (about 30 seconds) for plants to kill algae.
I recommend diluting with about 5 parts water with 1 part Flourish Excel, however I have not established an exact dilution as of yet (so experimentation may be necessary).

Hydrogen Peroxide can also be used as a dip/bath (or even added directly to the aquarium), this can be especially effective for the control of Black Beard Algae.
When added directly to the tank, this is best at a rate of 2 oz. of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallons.

HOWEVER this is best done WITHOUT shrimp (such as Cherry Shrimp) present, as this will generally kill them. As well many fish are sensitive to Hydrogen Peroxide, such as Cory and Oto Catfish, so my preferred use is as a dip/bath.
Even then some plants are sensitive as well such as Corkscrew Vallisneria, so experiment with Hydrogen Peroxide in small amounts if unsure or simply use my preferred method baths/dips which is Flourish Excel as noted earlier.

For plant baths, I would recommend about 4 oz. of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for approximately 30 minutes. For a 30 second dip, about a 5 to 1 solution of Hydrogen Peroxide applied by basting the plants with the solution (this solution can be increased if results are not satisfactory).

Please read this article for about the use and risks of Hydrogen Peroxide:
Aquarium Medications Part 3; Hydrogen Peroxide

Finally as I noted earlier about BBA, it can be a frustrating algae, however I have often found it much simpler to control this algae rather than pull my hair out in trying to totally eradicate it.
This is often easily done with some of the suggestions in the summary of this article (please read further), such as trimming of leaves with the BBA, scraping of these leaves as well, correct lighting (meaning 6500 K high PAR lights and no actinic), good mineralization, added CO2 which includes methods such as Flourish Excel in its bio available liquid form, regular water changes, and more.

Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae/ Red Slime Algae)

Blue/Green Algae which is more appropriately called Cyanobacteria is more closely related to bacteria than algae. Cyanobacteria can be a difficult problem in both fresh and saltwater.

Cyanobacteria is more common in a tank that is not healthy or that has a high load of dissolved organics.
Cyanobacteria has many species and forms and causes great angst among planted tank beginners and experienced hobbyist alike. Some forms of BGA grow slow and are very difficult to kill, other species grow very quickly and can overwhelm and "smother" all the plants in short order.

For my full discussion of Cyanobacteria, please see my separate article about it:
“Cyanobacteria (Red/Orange Slime, Blue Green Algae) in Aquariums”

PLANTED AQUARIUM ALGAE PROBLEMS (SUMMARY)

Most true algae (not Cyanobacteria) compete with plants for the same nutrients and light, so battling algae is often very difficult.
However from my experience with ponds in particular it is often a “battle” than cannot be totally won but certainly can be checked by keeping nutrients away from algae (such as substrate nutrients) while providing them to plants and understanding that algae are more simple life forms than plants and have less complicated needs, so addressing the more complex needs of higher plants will allow them to out compete.
Sometimes this is as simple as removal of as much algae as possible to give the plants a foot hold, although this can also be a much more difficult task.

Often just lighting, just ferts, or just CO2/carbon issues are blamed, when in fact it is generally combination of all.
For instance if you improve light, you will also need more CO2, and often more nutrients. Failure to provide CO2 and nutrients while improving/increasing lighting, will often result in more algae and poor plant growth.

A couple resources to simply improve CO2 & Nutrients (Ferts)
*ISTA Co2 Disposable Cartridge Supply Set from AAP
*AAP; NPK & All in One Planted Aquarium Ferts/Nutrients

Here are some factors that MAY affect unwanted algae growth in your planted aquarium;

*Unusable/Unavailable nutrients (micronutrients and macronutrients) as well as Nutrient Imbalance.

Here is a list of important nutrients (listed in recommended added solution, not ppm as stated earlier in the article):
Potassium (often available as Soluble Potash)- .37%, Iron- .32%, Sulfur- .27%, Sodium- .13%, Calcium- .14%, Magnesium- .11%, Nitrogen- .07%, Nitrogen- .07%, Available Phosphate- .01%, Boron- .009%, Cobalt- 0004%, Copper- .0001%, Zinc- .0007% Molybdenum- .0009%,.

Here are a few product sources:

Not all these sources have all the required nutrients many can be mixed as you find your own success.

Much has been published lately about the addition of PO4 (phosphates) to control algae, however I believe this is only partially correct and based on some false assumptions.
PO4 along with NO3 and Potassium are important Macronutrients that need to be in balance.
I have found that simply changing water will (assuming proper mineralization of new water) will control algae by adding all these macronutrients.

What is happening is that algae are much better equipped than higher plants to compete in conditions of low nutrients, however the addition of these nutrients allows much better competition.
Adding only PO4 does not bring these macronutrients into balance and even though many claim this solved their problem, they have not run a control group to see if this was only part of the equation.

*Important! - Poor lighting or Too Much Light; Poor Lighting quality that does not allow plants to compete with algae can be a cause of difficult algae issues.
Although when more useful light energy is added more nutrients including CO2 are needed.
I do not agree with the method of darkening a tank for a few days as plants often have higher light requirements than algae (in part due to their complexity), this only gives the algae more time to out compete plants!

However as per the Walstad/German method of planted aquarium keeping, you can interrupt the lighting schedule in 4 hour increments. In other words, leaving the light on for only 4 hrs at a time (this though does assume optimum spectrum lighting).
Example: Lights on @ 8 am, then turn lights off from 12 pm. Then again turn lights back on @ 4 pm until 8 pm for the rest of the night.

Basically only using your tank light for 8 total hrs per day, with a 4 hour break, in the middle of the "lighting period".
The purpose is:

To cut back algae by starving it of the necessary length of light exposure it needs to grow.
To boost plant growth by allowing CO2 to build back up naturally during the mid-day lighting break, thus providing the plants more CO2 to use during the second Photosynthesis period, which starts when your lights go back on for the evening.
During this time, if using plant nutrients, try cutting back on the dose used and or frequency of use, as any nutrients in the water that go unused by the plants will go to algae.

Further Reference, a MUST READ:
Aquarium Lighting; Complete Information

*Poor substrate for healthy plant growth (only certain plants!).
Make sure your substrate is rich in Iron (Fe).
Iron is an important trace element; your tank substrate should contain a reasonable amount of Iron.
Liquid iron will, if over dosed, favor Hair algae. It can be added through tablet Iron rich fertilizers and through substrates like SeaChem Fluorite, Laterite and EcoComplete

Product Resource: SeaChem Fluorite

*High or too low Nitrates.
Nitrates should be between 10 & 15 ppm for plants; with nitrates above 40 ppm, I have seen excessive algae growth in many aquariums (although high nitrates are rarely a problem in tanks with healthy plant growth).
Too low and plants will starve for this important macronutrient.

Further References:
*Freshwater Aquarium Plant Care
*Nitrates in Aquariums, Ponds

*Aquarium Cleaning Frequency.
Often increasing the frequency (even twice or three times per week) will improve conditions in the aquarium so as to allow plants to out compete algae.
In part this improves the macronutrient balance as discussed above (as well as improvements in Redox and lowering DOC).
Further Reference: Aquarium Cleaning, Reasons, Frequency, Methods

*Trim plants of dying, decaying, or algae covered leaves, even if this removes much of your plants.
This is much like pruning in your garden. This forces plants to generate new and healthy leaves that will often do better at out competing algae.

*Dip your new plants or even established plants, although this will cause a temporary shock to established plants.

Here are a few dip methods;

Bleach used in a 20 to 30 parts water to 1 part bleach for 2-3 minutes for delicate plants and 4-5 minutes for broad leaf plants; followed by a quick dip in sodium Thiosulfate or other de-chlorinator/ water mixture (Sodium Thiosulfate is found in many aquarium/pond de-chlorinators such as Start Right and I recommend that the dose used to neutralize the bleach be double to triple the normal suggested amount for tank use).

Potassium Permanganate in a solution of water and enough Potassium Permanganate to turn you water pink for 20 minutes is also effective for many algae, diseases and usually snails, again followed by a sodium Thiosulfate or other de-chlorinator/ water mixture.

Hydrogen Peroxide can be used as a 30 second dip in a solution of about a five to one, water to 3% Household Hydrogen Peroxide applied by basting the plants with the solution (this solution can be increased if results are not satisfactory).

Sea Chem Flourish Excel, this product can be used as a quick dip solution (about 30 seconds) for plants to kill algae. I recommend diluting with about 5 parts water with 1 part Flourish Excel.
Also the dosing of Flourish Excel in your aquarium can be effective for algae control as well.
Flourish Excel contains a polymerized isomer of glutaraldehyde trademarked as polycycloglutaracetal by SeaChem and is the active ingredient in this product, which is a fertilizer for aquatic plants.

It is claimed that it provides a bioavailable source of carbon for higher plants that is not available to algae. Though not marketed as such due to federal regulations, the algaecidal effect of glutaraldehyde kills most algae at concentrations of 0.5 - 5.0 ppm.

Product Resource: SeaChem Flourish Excel, New Plant Dip, Bio Carbon

*Improper GH and KH levels (or mineralization, especially GH).
Here is an important point:
“The release of carbonate converted from bicarbonate by plant life can cause pH to climb dramatically (above 9) during periods of rapid photosynthesis by dense phytoplankton (algal) blooms. This rise in pH can occur in low alkalinity water (20 to 50 mg/L) or in water with moderate to high bicarbonate alkalinity (75 to 200 mg/L) that has less than 25 mg/L hardness.”

* UV Sterilization;
Despite many claims that a UV Sterilizer can only kill free floating algae, I have found evidence in many tests that a UV Sterilizer can control (not eliminate) the spread of some algae.
I do not have a conclusive answer as to why I have found these positive results with algae control in aquariums (& ponds) with the use of UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers, however I suspect the reason is twofold:
(1) The UV Irradiation kills algae spores, thus slowing the spread (as noted earlier, algae that spread "vegetatively" such as hair algae may see little improvement with the addition of a UV Sterilizer).
(2) Improvement in water conditions such as Redox Balance via TRUE level 1 UVC Sterilization

Further Reference: True UV-C Sterilization for Aquarium or Pond

*A poor Redox Balance/Potential; which is often improved by better and more frequent water changes and proper mineralization such as Calcium, Magnesium and sodium as stated above.

*The use of either all Reverse Osmosis water or blended (such as 1/2 or 1/4 mixed with tap or well water) can aid in many algae control as this allows the aquarium keeper to adjust water chemistry more from a "clean slate" approach especially where tap/well water contains high phosphates, nitrates, iron or similar elements/nutrients that favor algae.

Be aware that it is important to add essential minerals and carbonates back into RO water with products such as SeaChem Replenish or Wonder Shells.

See these articles for more about Reverse Osmosis (RO) water use:
Aquarium Chemistry
Use of Reverse Osmosis Water In Aquariums

Product Resources:
*Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System for Aquarium
*SeaChem Replenish; RO Water Mineral Adjuster
*Wonder Shell; Aquarium, Pond Mineral Blocks (unique AAP)

Whole Tank Algae Treatment using H2O2 & Glutaral Dehyde
Sometimes simply "nuking" your planted tank is the most simple way to get rid of unwanted algae, regardless of the cause.

Here is a method from:
PlantedTank.net: The "One-Two Punch" Whole Tank Algae Treatment

Flow is essential for success here.
Adding extra power heads for flow is advised (or even air bars/stones) .
If your only source of flow, water movement are your filters, you will have to temporarily remove the filter media to a bucket of tank water, and leave the filters on.

If you have Marimo balls, temporarily remove them to a bucket of tank water as well.
Cladophora is very hardy, and normally not affected by whole tank H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) treatments. But this treatment can burn them badly, especially on sides exposed to direct flow. If they're also infested with undesirable algae, they can be treated simply by keeping them in the bucket in a dark place for a week. Cladophora can tolerate extremely long blackouts without harm, unlike other algae.

Keep the lights on. Light has no effect on the H2O2, but is helpful in observing your results.

Now add 3% H2O2, at a dosage of 4 tablespoon per 10 Gallons (38 liters) of actual tank water volume (excluding substrate, plants, etc).

Allow to circulate for 15 minutes. During this time, redirect flow a few times if possible, to make sure all areas get covered. If you have particular trouble spots, try to ensure they get direct flow during part of the treatment.

Now terminate the treatment, followed by a 50% water change, or more. Return the tank to its normal configuration, including replacing filter media if it was removed.

Less hardy algae may be effectively killed by this alone, especially if flow was good. But all algae will be weakened.

Any remaining algae not killed by the H2O2 is now extremely susceptible to Glutaral Dehyde (AAP/NilocG Enhance or SeaChem Flourish Excel).

Product Source: AAP/NilocG Enhance; Glutaral Dehyde

If you weren't already using Glutaral Dehyde, or were using it at the recommended dose, add NilocG 's recommended "after water change" high dose of 5ml per 10 Gallons.
No further large doses are necessary in this case. Algae builds up some tolerance to Glutaral Dehyde, similar to sensitive plants like Vallisneria.
In this case, the H2O2 treatment followed by a single, sudden Excel spike is enough to quickly finish algae off.

If you were already using Glutaral Dehyde high doses, continue using the previous dose.

Your aquarium should now be algae free!
If there are any underlying problems that caused the algae outbreak in the first place, correct them so your tank stays algae-free. In some cases, a thorough algae removal like this is enough to improve plant health to the point where algae will not return assuming proper parameters, ferts, light, and carbon dosing.

Further Reading/References:

*The Krib; Control of Red Algae in the Freshwater Aquarium
*The Krib; Hair (thread) Algae
*Introduction to Bacillariophyta (The Diatoms)
*Planted Aquarium Keeping Information
*A Discussion of Algae

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Saltwater Aquarium Information; Basic to Advanced

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Sponge Filtration; Complete Sponge Filter Use Information

*Aquarium Silicone; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!

TMC Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Filters

Aquarium Sponge Filters

The Premium ATI Hydro Sponge Filter, from the only online seller with professional use dating back to 1978 (prior to the Internet)

San Francisco Bay Brand Seaweed Salad

"Seaweed Salad" is much more nutritious than spinach and lettuce.
This product is recommended for all freshwater Algae Eaters, African Cichlids, Silver Dollars, Sharks, all saltwater Damsels, Clownfish, and especially Marine Angels and Tangs

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

A good compliment to RO water or for any freshwater aquarium to add ESSENTIAL Mineral Ions:
*Wonder Shells, Mineral Block

Salt Use (Sodium Chloride) In Freshwater Aquariums

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 29 Mar 2008 19:36:00 +0000

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Aquarium Salt (Sodium chloride) in Freshwater Aquariums
Updated 10/24/20

The use of Sodium Chloride more commonly known as plain salt seems to be a constant source of controversy among aquarists, especially here on the internet. What is interesting to me and my colleagues in the professional aquarium maintenance, design and research business is that the way this controversy has “swung” from "you MUST use salt" to cure everything to the now current fad propagated by many forums and articles, to "RARELY or NEVER use salt".
Unfortunately, both views are based on misunderstandings of the term of what salt is and what fish need “salts” for, as well as a lack of understanding and reading of research about this subject.

Please read the article in full, including the myths/truths section.

What is “Salt”

I will start with some basic definitions of what “salts” are. Further reading beyond this article is needed here, so please follow links/resources/references.
Basically, a salt is a neutral compound composed of cations (positively charged ions) bound to anions (negatively charged ions).
A more in depth description is that “salts” are ionic compounds held together by electrostatic attraction of positively charged metal cations and the negatively charged anions. These Ions can be simple molecules, as in sodium chloride, or more complex groups such as calcium carbonate.
What I am driving at is that salts consist of more than just Sodium Chloride (what we generally refer to as salt is sodium chloride), and salts in general are IMPORTANT electrolytes necessary for biochemistry and osmoregulation in fish. Without salts fish and other biochemical processes would cease.

Please reference these two articles for further reader as to this subject:
*PROPER OSMOTIC FUNCTION- ELECTROLYTES; DO FISH DRINK
*AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY; How to maintain a Proper KH & PH, why calcium and electrolytes are important.

Common salt-forming cations applicable to aquarium keeping include:

Ammonium NH4+
Calcium Ca2+
Magnesium Mg2+
Potassium K+
Sodium Na+

Common salt-forming anions applicable to aquarium keeping include:

Carbonate CO32- (carbonic acid)
Chloride Cl- (hydrochloric acid)
Nitrate NO3- (nitric acid)
Nitrite NO2- (nitrous acid)
Phosphate PO43- (phosphoric acid)

Referenced/Sources from: What are Salts; Wikipedia

Sodium Chloride and other Salts in Aquariums

This where the controversy begins in my opinion. The question is, should aquarium salt (sodium chloride) be used and if not, what will take its place for necessary electrolytes?
First, I will start off by stating again that ALL living organisms need certain electrolytes for biochemistry. The before mentioned resources help explain this fact).
I have read many scientific studies as well as performed many experiments over the years in the use of different salts including sodium chloride.
I will start by stating that a successful aquarium CAN be kept without sodium chloride HOWEVER, other "salts" MUST be present such as Calcium carbonate, otherwise your fish will have lower disease resistance and other physiological problems.

As a generalization when it comes to sodium chloride salts, I have found 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons works safely as a preventative for many community aquariums. However in most community aquariums, I have found in experiments in multiple aquariums, keeping almost no salt but then adding salt at a tablespoon per 5 gallons or higher when any possible issues arise or new fish are added works best (keeping in mind salt is not a cure all).
For therapeutic levels in aquariums or baths, 1 Teaspoon per one gallon is a good starting point (it can be higher in many cases).

Where this gets controversial is with freshwater Plants, Catfish, Elephant Nose, Tetras, Goldfish and Livebearers such as Mollies.

Starting with each of the above, let’s take a look them specifically:

Freshwater Plants;
As many articles state correctly, many freshwater plants (not all though) have a low tolerance for sodium chloride, so care must be exercised in the use of sodium chloride (NaCl) with many plants present.
Most freshwater plants can tolerate up to 1000 mg. per liter of sodium chloride and since a teaspoon is roughly 5500 mg. that equals one teaspoon per 5.5 liters of water or 1.45 gallons (one gallon = 3.785 liters). This is approximately 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons.
Please keep in mind that this is the upper reach of many plants tolerance, so a lower amount would be better.

This said, I generally have used very little sodium chloride salts in my planted aquariums (Anubias one of the exceptions), however the plants still require other electrolytes, (salts) so one must make sure that calcium carbonate, magnesium and other necessary minerals ("salts") are present.

Much more about: Freshwater Plant Care

Catfish, Elephant Nose, etc;
This is an area where my own research as well as university level research does not “mesh” with current popular opinions/fads.
While it is true that Catfish, Tetras, and fish such as Elephant Nose do not tolerate salt well, they still MUST have some electrolytes and can tolerate some salt, at least in short term doses.

Fish such as Elephant Nose & Knife Fish that navigate by electrical field do not do well in higher doses of salt (NaCl), these fish can tolerate short term doses of salt such as after introduction of new fish for aid in disease resistance, transport or aid in disease treatment.
Generally, long term sodium chloride use should be kept to levels under 500 mg. per liter or less, I recommend no more than 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons for these fish. This is one TEASPOON, not Tablespoon!

Since there is little money for really good studies for most aspects of aquarium keeping I, and others serious about really good research, must look to outside sources for information. This includes other areas such as Aquarium Lighting and other poorly researched subjects within the aquarium industry.
Where I am going with this point, is that outside of my own tests and side by side studies (admittedly not to university level standards) most good research as to salt (NaCl) comes from studies in food grade fish such as Channel Catfish.

Example of Researched Aquarium Lighting Information:
Aquarium Lighting

These studies are not 100% to extrapolate results for since Channel catfish are not Corydoras Catfish, however based on my own studies as well, these studies are still VERY useful for a scientific understand of the use of sodium chloride with fish such as Corydoras Catfish.

The most current studies I have read show that Channel Catfish CAN tolerate salt in surprisingly high amounts for at least short periods of time with no long term issues.
In fact studies have shown that treatment of Channel Catfish for Columnaris when sodium chloride is used vastly INCREASED the survival rate! These studies showed increased survival in concentrations between 1000 and 3000 mg. per liter.
This comes out to .67 teaspoons per liter or 2.54 teaspoons per gallon!

Reference: Alabama Agricultural Experimental Station, Auburn University

This would also include my own experiments which consisted of literally 1000s of tests/applications over three decades with direct aquarium application and more so with fish baths and fish dips where salt (sodium chloride) is utilized as one of the ingredients for the bath or dip.

Bringing this back to aquarium keeping and my own studies/results as per catfish, I found no problems in short term use up to 2 tablespoons per 5 gallons and long term use up to one teaspoon per 5 gallons.

Please also see this article for a graph from a University Study of salt use for Channel Catfish:
Columnaris/Saprolegnia Treatment, Prevention, Identification

Tetras;
As with Catfish, most Tetras originally inhabit waters that have little or no Sodium Chloride, however as with ALL fish Tetras must have at least some minerals/electrolytes per. For short term use (new fish, disease control, stress, etc.), 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons or even 1 teaspoon per gallon can be easily used with most Tetras.

For long term use I generally recommend/use no more than 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons or no salt at all, HOWEVER I still keep minerals/electrolytes in Aquariums with Tetras at a level of 100 ppm GH or higher (Wonder Shells can be used as an aid for correct mineral levels).
I generally keep carbonates/bicarbonates (as with catfish) at around 50-100 ppm KH for stability of pH, but not so high as to maintain high pH of more than 7.5 (although pH stability is what is most important and actual pH is only a minor secondary concern.
The addition of Indian Almond Leaf power, extract, or similar products are helpful in keeping healthy Tetra Aquariums by adding beneficial natural tannins (& as well control Aeromonas Bacteria), as found in products such Pillow Moss.

PLEASE see this article in the Amazon River section for more about keeping a tank that would be excellent for many Tetras: Aquarium Chemistry; Amazon River Water

Product References:
Wonder Shells
Pillow (Frog) Moss; Natural Water Softener

Goldfish;
Gold fish are from a family of fish that include koi and carp. The common goldfish (Carassius auratus) and its fancy variations are fish based on my own experience that do better in water that contains moderate amounts of minerals and electrolytes.

This includes a GH (for Calcium, magnesium and more) as well as some sodium chloride salt.
My clients goldfish have always had more longevity and less incidence of disease when the GH is 200 ppm plus (Wonder Shells are one way for maintaining correct mineral levels) and I have kept 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons of water.
In fact a government study shows INCREASED survival rates when chronic salinity levels were increased up to 6000 mg. per liter (6 ppm).

I will also note as per goldfish that these are a fish that I have performed several tests/studies as per the use of salt, use of UV Sterilization and improved Aquarium Redox.
These facts fly in the face of the many anecdotal postings of what is best for healthy goldfish.

Further References:
How UV Sterilization works
Benefits of a proper Aquarium Redox Potential

Livebearers such as Mollies;
This is another area where I find some miss-information. Most aquarists would agree that mollies will do fine with sodium chloride salt in their aquariums, however what many aquarists miss is that mollies do not all come from areas with NaCl in their water but ALL mollies and livebearers in general do and must have other electrolytes such as Calcium Carbonate and Magnesium in their water as well as buffers such as sodium bi-carbonate.
Personally I have had the best results with my livebearers with a GH well over 200 ppm (for calcium/magnesium), a KH over 150 ppm and finally 1 tablespoon of sodium chloride per 5 gallons.

If salt is kept with livebearers, I often use marine salt and then I will use the best possible to provide natural bio available salts & pharmaceutical ingredients to insure high purity.
For this I recommend Tropic Marin Reef Salt from Germany (which is sold by the pound to make it more readily available for smaller uses).

Product Resource: AAP-Tropic Marine Pro Reef Salt from Germany

Please see this article for more: “Keeping Molly Fish in Aquariums”

Cichlids;; in particular African Cichlids are commonly kept with some salt in the water.
My personal tests as well as research has shown that although African Cichlids need high amounts of minerals (high GH and KH), they do not necessarily need salt (sodium chloride).
I have found better results keeping Mbuna, Haps and other Rift Lake Cichlids to maintain high levels of minerals in particular calcium and carbonates (via a GH of 200 plus and a KH of 150 plus), and then reserve the use of salt (sodium chloride) for times of stress, new fish, or disease such as Ich or Columnaris.

I have found better results with this restrained occasional use of salt while I regularly use products such as Wonder Shells for minerals.
The Cichlids then respond to treatment better when salt is only added during disease treatment, when new fish are present, or other forms of stress. As well, the incidence of Malawi Bloat is reduced since over use of salt is a contributing factor in some causes of Malawi Bloat.

Brackish Fish;
Brackish water infers bodies of water that has more salinity than fresh water, but not as much as seawater.
Technically, brackish water contains between 0.5 and 30 grams of salt per liter, often expressed as 0.5 to 30 parts per thousand, which is a specific gravity of between 1.005 and 1.010.

Some brackish fish include before mentioned livebearers such as guppies and mollies, but as noted NOT ALL guppies or mollies hail from areas of elevated salt (sodium chloride).
HOWEVER more traditional brackish fish that should ALWAYS be in water with some sodium chloride include: Green Spotted, & Figure 8 Puffers, Monos/Moonies (Monodactylus argenteus, & Monodactylus sebae), Bumblebee Gobies, Archer Fish, Siamese Tigerfish (Datnioides microlepis), and American Flagfish.

True brackish fish should always be kept in water containing QUALITY marine salt at a specific gravity of between 1.005 and 1.010. The use of plain aquarium salt or even cheaper marine salts that are commonly sold will often result in failure or less healthy brackish fish.
The reason in part is because these fish live in water of lower salt concentrations of mineral salts (& I do not mean just sodium chloride, but all bio available mineral salts and electrolytes), they are more sensitive when these salts and electrolytes are incomplete or missing.
For this I recommend Tropic Marin Reef Salt from Germany (which is sold by the pound).

Product Resource: AAP-Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt from Germany

Further reference: Wikipedia; Brackish Water

A FEW FACTS, USES AND MYTHS ABOUT SALT IN FRESHWATER AQUARIUMS

Fact, based on much research and my own experience both anecdotal in 1000s of aquariums and with experiments, salt can and does help or even cure some fish maladies such as Columnaris or simple sores.
HOWEVER salt is NOT a cure all and often fails as a salt only Ich treatment, especially with certain fish. Tests also show that use of sodium chloride for Ich often will take longer to affect a cure, often resulting in fish death as this treatment is simply not effective enough for a virulent Ich infestation.

The facts are most uses of sodium chloride salt in freshwater are better for prevention or mild treatment (with the possible exception of a major university study in treatment of Columnaris already noted earlier).
The improper use of salt does not make it a "dated method" any more than Newton's law of gravity. So when aquarium keepers with little real science based experience in fish disease treatment and prevention use this argument, especially since is usually just a small part of many effective treatments, I would suggest simply ignore them as the science and credible experience states otherwise.

Salt is best used therapeutically with most fish, not on an ongoing basis. Long term use can detrimentally affect osmoregulation in most freshwater fish.
As well salt (sodium chloride) best used in the average community aquarium (not brackish fish) these two ways:
- Temporary fish baths, often combined with other therapies including antibiotics and Methylene Blue.
- Therapeutically in community aquariums during times of stress where by sodium chloride is only introduced when new fish are added, injury, or sick fish. Then the salt (sodium chloride) is slowly removed again.
  As an example, Sodium Chloride is a proven treatment for Columnaris (even in salt sensitive catfish) as per a University of Auburn study.
In the end, keeping sodium chloride in an aquarium all the time will not help with disease resistance in freshwater fish, better is the use of mineral Cations that lower oxidative stress (such as AAP Wonder shells) It is noteworthy that the constant use of sodium chloride can actually increase a fish' susceptibility to disease and parasites by keeping the fish somewhat stressed all the time, which along with oxidative stress, weakens the immune system.

Further Reading:
*Fish Baths, Dips, Swabs
*Columnaris in Fish
*Aquarium Redox & Oxidative Stress in Fish

With NaCl (common sodium chloride salt), NaCl draws water/fluids through the fish often helping osmoregulation or draining tissues that have to much fluid present. Sodium Chloride (as well as Epsom Salts) can help with the generation of fish' essential slime (mucoprotein) coat.
However too much NaCl can also dry tissues too much, especially if over used over extended periods of time or too much salt is used even for a shorter time. Too much sodium chloride or long term use can also inhibit the product of the fish' slime (mucoprotein) coat, so there is a fine line as to the use of NaCl for slime coat generation.

This of course depends upon the fish species and their ability to deal with salt (NaCl).

There are other salts/electrolytes such as Calcium Carbonate that are important for proper osmoregulation, disease prevention (and even treatment) in freshwater aquarium fish.

Sodium Chloride can be safely used with these other minerals/salts/electrolytes such as the before mentioned Calcium Carbonate as well as Magnesium and other critical minerals. Wonder Shells are an excellent source of these other mineral Cations (electrolytes) and can safely be used with aquarium salt (sodium chloride).

Product Reference:
Unique Wonder Shells by AAP

Sodium Chloride use, even temporary, does not take the place of stronger treatments when needed. Nor does sodium chloride salt take the place of good water maintenance practices, whether it be water changes, use of UV Sterilization, or optimum water parameters that include a balanced Redox.

Sodium Chloride is useful for Brown Blood disease (nitrite poisoning) in freshwater fish as well as for a stress reliever in fish transport. A minimum chloride concentration of 20 ppm is recommended to prevent nitrite toxicity.

Sodium Chloride salt can help prevent and even treat many diseases from Ich to Columnaris, however this is an area where many go overboard too much the other direction as sodium chloride is NOT a cure all, especially when it comes to virulent Ich infestations.
However even though salt is not a cure all, salt can certainly improve results when used in combination with other treatments or in fish baths/dips.
As well many Ich infestations and Columnaris infections have been treated successfully with only salt and Salt/Methylene Blue baths.

Further Disease Treatment Information:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish An important read prior to ANY TREATMENT of sick fish
Aquarium Ich, Ichthyophthirius multifilis; Identification, Treatment, Life cycle
Fish Baths; Including the Use of Salt

Sodium Chloride Salt can be safely used in most all freshwater aquarium applications provided proper levels are observed and as noted earlier other “salts” are also employed either with or without sodium chloride.

Sodium Chloride aids in slime coat generation (often better than over touted slime coat products, especially those that place a slime bandage on the fish). However it should be noted that there are other electrolytes that aid in slime coat generation as well potassium. This said, with most freshwater fish, I still only recommend using salt on a temporary basis.

Please see this article for more about water conditioners:
Aquatic water Conditioners

Sodium Chloride does not dissipate, meaning that generally only water changes will remove salt.
For example if you are using salt (NaCl) in your 20 gallon aquarium and you change 5 gallons of water you need ONLY add salt for the 5 gallons changed, not the 20 gallons of aquarium water otherwise your salt levels will build up with time.

It is noteworthy that very small amounts of Sodium Chloride are used in biological processes within the aquarium/inhabitants, however this amount is not worth adding more salt for.
In the case of some other salts such as Calcium carbonate and potassium, these will get depleted a higher rater by biological processes and will often need to be replaced depending on water change amounts, bio load, tap water (or other replacement water chemistry), tests, etc.

Table Salt is not a deadly poison to fish as some will say (I have read this on Yahoo Answers).
Table salts have anti-caking agents (often with silicates) and sometimes iodine.
Neither of which are deadly poisons.

However use of table salts is best in temporary conditions such as baths, not the main aquarium due buildup of these added ingredients which can increase algae growth or increase iodine to levels (over time) that may be harmful.

Water Softener salt is generally JUST sodium chloride (always check the bag for added ingredients), so its use when all you need is simply sodium chloride salts is perfectly fine (& economical).

The myth that the use of water softener salt will make your tank water “soft” (low GH) is simply incorrect when used normally.
A water softener simply uses sodium chloride (salt) as part of a process whereby calcium and magnesium ions in the water are replaced with sodium ions.
To do the ion replacement, the water in the water softener is run through a bed of small plastic beads or through zeolite. (which is why water from softener should never be used in an aquarium).
Think of it this way; if you eat sugar you do not get sweeter, your body simply converts the sugar into energy or converts then stores the sugars (in other forms).

Further Reference:
Why to NOT use Water Softener Water in Aquariums

Some Suggested Salt Sources for when salt is used in a freshwater aquarium:

Plain Salt (Sodium Chloride) such as water softener salt:
This is best used when one finds the need for the addition of salt to Amazon River or SE Asia biotope community aquariums, where no additional minerals are needed (other than supplied via water changes and products such as Wonder Shells or Replenish).

SeaChem Cichlid Salt:
This is best used as a standard every day additive in African Cichlid, livebearer, or similar aquariums. This has all essential minerals and Cations, but includes Sodium Chloride as a very nominal non-therapeutic percentage/level.

Marine Salts:
Products such as Instant Ocean or Tropic Marin Premium Reef Salt can be used in place of plain salt (sodium chloride) for before mentioned African Cichlid, livebearer and similar aquariums when salt is needed at a therapeutic level and additional minerals would also be quite helpful. This includes use in Fish Baths and dips.
In fact in short term fish baths, a quality marine salt will improve your results and is recommended for fish bath use for all freshwater fish!
Premium Marine/Reef Salt Resource: Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt from Germany Is Of The Highest Quality

SALT CONVERSIONS

Often salt amounts are given as mg/L, however milligrams is a measure of weight while most of us use dry measurements such as teaspoons or tablespoons which are measurements of volume. So the average weight of salt must be found before converting.
To convert 1000 mg of salt into a given volume (in this case, teaspoons), you would need to find the average weight per this volume, which in this example is .22 teaspoons per 1000 mg (approximately).
This means that if your treatment required 2000 mg/L you would need .44 teaspoons of salt per liter of water. Since 1 gallon= 3.785 liters, you would need 1.66 teaspoons per gallon of water.
Many salt treatments call for as much as 3000 mg/L which means you would need approximately 2-1/2 teaspoons per gallon.

A few more conversions:

1000 grams = 1 gram
1 gram = .0353 ounce
1 ounce = 28.35 grams
1 fluid ounce = 6 teaspoons
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon

SUMMARY; Further Information about Salt use, both Positive and Negative

I will sum this up by saying that those who say you should not use sodium chloride salt in your freshwater aquarium (including with Catfish, Tetras, etc.) and those who say you should always use salt (NaCl) are only HALF RIGHT!
I would certainly agree that there was (and still is) a segment of the aquarium keeping hobby that thinks sodium chloride is the cure all for everything all the while ignoring important other “salts” such as Calcium Chloride.

However the current “No Salt” fad propagated by many poorly researched articles/blogs/ocial Media posts that sadly come up in Google Searches also ignores certain facts not only about sodium chloride but about the other important electrolytes as well.
While many fish such as Tetras do well without any added salt but for occasional treatment levels or baths, other fish such as Goldfish have been proven to to be more disease resistant with small amounts salt present along with even more important positive mineral ions of elements such as calcium.
My own years of experience and tests along with research and many of my professional aquarium keeping colleagues bears this out.

When salt is used the use of iodized table salt that is often found in kitchen cupboard is not the best choice, however in a pinch it is not a terrible choice as is often described (another aquatic myth).
If the small amount of salt that is needed in a freshwater aquarium is used the iodine (which is also a necessary nutrient for fish in small quantities as in humans) is not likely to cause any problems (due to the trace amount of iodine present after dilution in water).

Common table salt also has anti-caking agents such as sodium alumino silicate which is main reason to avoid table salt as this ingredient may cause increases algae growth (other anti-caking ingredients include potassium ferrocyanide and calcium carbonate).
Table salt is usually fine for short duration dips or baths, I would simply not recommend using table salt long term in an aquarium due to build up over time of anti-caking agents & iodine (assuming iodized salt).

I prefer to use either plain rock salt (water softener salt), marine salt (of which the additional major and trace elements are actually beneficial to many freshwater fish), or products such as SeaChem Cichlid Salt which (similar to marine salt in concept) contains added minerals/electrolytes of which when used in the small amount of salt one should use sodium chloride are actually beneficial for the vast majority of freshwater fish.

Product Resource: SeaChem Cichlid Salt; All Freshwater Fish Safe However, I do want to clarify that I recommend the use of plain salt (such as regular aquarium salt, water softener salt, etc.) for use in salt and medicated baths over marine or Cichlid salt as the later two add other elements that although essential in the general environment, they could dramatically alter the difference in the bath water and display tank water so to cause osmotic stress/shock.

Another point as to the use SeaChem Cichlid Salt or Marine salt in freshwater aquariums is that these salts BOTH add carbonates/bicarbonates (for KH) and in general many freshwater aquariums need not or even should not be used with buffers that also increase carbonates/bicarbonates.
The use of these two salts is fine with products such as Wonder Shells as these mineral blocks tend to dissolve as minerals are depleted and combined use is highly unlikely to increase GH/mineral levels to anything remotely dangerous for ANY freshwater fish.
In African Cichlid tanks I have often combined buffers AND Cichlid Salt, however I recommend monitoring KH and pH so as to find the “sweet spot” as to the correct amount of each to add so as to keep correct parameters (again the use of Aquarium Mineral blocks such as Wonders Shells is not a concern and I in fact strongly recommend this!)

Other Related Resources/References:

*www.int-res.com/articles/dao/21/d021p171.pdf
*Freshwater Aquarium Basics
*Fish Osmoregulation
*Aquarium Redox

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites/Videos

The most effective medication BAR NONE for the treatment of Columnaris in an aquarium when used as part of the four step program of Columnaris treatment.
A more synergistic combination than purchasing Kanamycin & Nitrofurazone separately.

AAP Spectrogram; Synergistic Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

YouTube; How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infection

This video goes over the basics of the full four step plan of properly treating Columnaris in aquarium fish and is a compliment to a FULL reading of this article.

Aquarium and Pond Information, Help, Advice Articles

Aquarium Lighting Facts & Information

*Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

POND CARE INFORMATION; Complete Steps

*Planaria & Detritus Worms in Aquarium

Freshwater Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced

Fish Nutrition
Complete information from fish food building blocks to sources and much more

"Clay Neighbor's AAP Premium All Natural" Premium Optimized Custom Fish Food Crumbles
Made in the USA & sold out of Oregon;
Superior to ALL other fish Foods in quality of optimization of ingredients!

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter:

Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter

A good compliment to RO water or for any freshwater aquarium to add ESSENTIAL Mineral Ions:
*Wonder Shells, Mineral Block

AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up! Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!

*Aquarium Power Head Pumps
Superior to Hagen or Marineland, yet more economical.

Betta Habitat; "Betta splendens" Wild Habitat

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 08 Mar 2008 20:59:00 +0000

The Siamese fighting fish; scientific name, Betta splendens.

Betta Fish Care Guide Video

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience

Updated 1/15/19

I am writing this Aquarium Answers post/article to hopefully help with all the controversies around the internet and elsewhere about wild Betta habitat and requirements.
I would like to qualify this and state that as with many popular aquarium fish (such as Angels and Discus), the domestic versions are often adapted to the environment that they have been bred for. In other words, many angelfish are originally from low pH waters but are now commonly bred in higher pH alkaline waters.

In the case of Bettas, these amazing fish come from a Tropical Habitat that is known for drastic swings in water availability, clarity, parameters, and even temperature. This makes for a fish that is naturally uniquely adaptable to a variety of aquarium environments and is in part a reason for their popularity.
This said, often Betas are forced to adapt to conditions that would better described as just surviving as many take advantage of this fish' amazing adaptation abilities to extremes that they rarely face in the wild.

River Drainage Basins and natural environment

The Chao Phraya River drainage is seen in the central Thailand area of the map while the Mekong River Drainage habitat is seen in Cambodia and Eastern Thailand

The Betta is a native freshwater fish from Thailand (formerly Siam) and Cambodia (formerly Kampuchea). Most native Bettas originate from the Mekong AND the Chao Phraya River drainage basins. These drainages are mountainous with agriculturally productive valleys found in the upper regions.
The lower region contains alluvial plains that are highly productive for agriculture. The Mekong and Chao Phraya Rivers drains from north to south.
Monsoon weather dominates, with a rainy season lasting from May to October and supplementary rain from occasional westward storm depressions originating in the Pacific.

Temperatures range from 15°C (59 F) in December to 40°C (104 F) in April except in high altitude locations. The basins can be classified as a tropical rainforest with high biodiversity. The lower parts have extensive irrigation networks and hence intensive rice paddy cultivation.
These rivers have a pH of 6.9 ranging to 8.2 and the nutrient level is low. In the Lower Mekong and Chao Phraya areas the river is turbid, especially during the rainy season.

With the very wide temperature swings it is easy to extrapolate that a betta can and will do well in a reasonable warm aquarium aquarium/large-bowl environment that does not exceed the temperature extremes found in the wild. This is not to say that a heated stable environment is not better for a healthy Betta (remember this IS a tropical fish).

The pH, GH, and KH also have wide swings, to which the Betta has adapted, however keep in mind that rapid changes in pH can still harm or even kill a Betta and should be avoided.
It is also note worthy that the pH scale is logarithmic, so a full point change in pH is tenfold increase or decrease in pH.

Please see this article for more about this subject:
“Aquarium Chemistry, GH, KH, Electrolytes, and pH in Aquariums”

The low water nutrient levels of these rivers lend themselves to a reducing Redox and lower nitrate levels, which means frequent partial water changes are important with bettas and if breeding on a large scale, a system in which the breeding sections are all linked to a large central system with a UV Sterilizer is also useful for both disease prevention and Redox (but not essential).

See this article for more about UV Sterilization:
How UV Sterilization Works in Aquariums and Ponds

Where to get: UV Sterilizer

Further Redox Info: Aquarium Redox

Being an anabantids, Bettas have a labyrinth organ in their heads that allows them to take oxygen directly from the atmosphere in addition to the oxygen taken from water via their gills which allows them to cope with the dry season in their monsoonal climate home.

All of the above environmental adaptation as well as breeding adaptation is why the Betta survives well in a small tank or even a reasonably sized bowl (with filtration), but also make no mistake about it the Betta merely survives the dry season and its harsh realities of water quality, so providing your domestic Betta a heated, stable, regularly maintained tank, with proper electrolyte levels (even if under 2 gallons) will go a long way in long term Betta health.

Although these beautiful fish were not seen in Europe until the 1800's, they have been cultured and kept in Thai households since the 1200's.
Bettas common aquariums have undergone centuries of selective breeding and have become far more aesthetically pleasing than the original Wild Betta, these “Domestic” bettas have also been adapted to the small aquarium environments in which they are often bred.
In the wild Bettas generally grow to 6.0 cm (2.3 in.), however many are now bred up to 8.0 cm (3.5 in.) in length.
A Bettas diet in the wild generally consists of insect larvae such as mosquito larvae. It is noteworthy that many of these insect larvae feed themselves on green organic matter, so a proper diet should consist of food that duplicates the digestive contents of these larvae as well.

Betta fish can live for up to 8 years in the wild, but this is rare with all the risks they also face in the wild. However, the average lifespan of a Betta fish is closer to 4 or 5 years in captivity under good care in a filtered tank with good nutrition, and proper chemistry (which includes positive mineral ions, which many Betta Keepers miss the scientifically proven importance of these electrolytes).

In Summary;
Take from this article which you as per the facts when it comes to how you house your Betta, however please keep in mind that even with smaller containers; utilizing an "under bowl/tank" ambient heater such as the Hydor Mini Bowl Heater is still needed to keep the Betta water temperature at least 60F (higher is better), partial water changes, maintaining ESSENTIAL positive mineral ions, limiting exposure to life threatening or lifespan shortening ammonia/nitrite levels by cycling your Bettas Aquarium Bowl are ALL still important as with any other fish regardless of aquarium size.

Product Source: Hydor Heater Designed Specifically for Bowls

What is more subjective is the size of the container you keep your Betta in assuming all the above objective/factual qualifications are met.
The argument is often made that a Betta is more happy in a larger aquarium, unfortunately unless you can speak to your Betta, this is simply an opinion.
From my observations with Bettas in 10 gallon or larger tanks versus Bettas I have kept in bowls (2 gallons plus, NOT Vases!), I have noticed often much more lively Bettas in the Bowls than in the larger aquariums where by they often hide in just one corner and not utilize all the "extra space", especially when other fish are present. But then others may have different observations, which then makes this only anecdotal evidence.

Back to facts, since I have performed so many controlled tests utilizing many of my large multi aquarium clients (both large and small aquarium), literally in the 100s going back to 1978, I can state categorically that lifespan and disease resistance were NOT any more lengthened by the Bettas kept in containers over 10 gallons versus those that were in aquariums under 5 gallons.
WHAT WAS A FACTOR in lifespan & disease resistance was the environment these fish were kept in as per water parameters and feeding, as well as actual filtration, not necessarily the size of the tank (this is not to say you should keep your Betta in 1/4 gallon vase either).

These included:

Ammonia/Nitrites near 0 at all times

Stable pH (not so much the actual pH number)

Nitrates under 40 ppm

A constant supply of positive mineral ions which in turn results in healthy osmoregulation and a balanced Aquarium Redox (as well as an optimized rH), and NOT chase GH or worse seek to unnaturally lower the GH

The points above are the FACTS, which includes in the controlled tests actually introducing diseases into their environment and those Bettas not kept in the optimum water parameters and fed the best diet much more often and quickly contracted the disease, even than those in larger aquariums that were of less than optimum water parameters.

The tests showed no differences in the 2 gallon bowls WITH sponge filtration versus the 10 gallon+ aquariums when water parameters and feeding were equal. AAP Hydro Sponge Filters work as well in bowl as they do in a larger aquarium and do to the large surface area, and soft patented surface area are 100% safe for Bettas.
You can then draw any subjective conclusions from there.

Sponge Filter Resource: AAP Premium Sponge Filters

More about Sponge Filtration:
Sponge Filter Use Information

References

*www.unesco.org/water/wwap/case_studies/chao_phraya/chao_phraya.pdf
*Mekong/Lancang River
*Betta Care; Veiltail (VT), Plakat, Crowntail (CT), Halfmoon (HM)

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Freshwater Aquarium Care; including bettas

Everything you need to know about Sponge Filtration

Betta Specifics, Information

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

A great forum for all your fish questions

ZooMed Betta Hammock

Allows your Betta to rest near the surface of the water just like they do in nature.

Wonder Shells; Regular & Medicated
Provides a constant supply of ESSENTIAL mineral ions for Bettas and other fish.
These unique Wonder Shell Mineral Supplements are sold EXCLUSIVELY at American Aquarium Products

Sanyu Betta Gold Premium Betta Pellets
* To reinforce the color combination of bettas by high percentage of natural color pigment.
* Strongly outline the original color combination of bettas
* It contains all the nutrition to keep the betta in good health
* Extremely stable vitamin C helps promote effective growth by reducing stress and reinforcing resistance
* A quality Betta food at a better value.

Hole in the Head, HITH, Hexamitiasis (Hex) Disease in Fish,

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 16:27:00 +0000

HITH; Hole in the Head Disease in Fish

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 7-2-23

I have had a lot of questions directed either to me or through the forums that I am active in about Hole in the Head Syndrome, often simply identified as HITH.
I will start off with by saying that I do NOT know everything there is to know about this disorder only to say that I have had a lot of experience in treating and controlling HITH in fish afflicted with this problem in my maintenance business over the years.

I will also note that I NEVER had an outbreak in the last 30 years of my business due to proper care of fish prone to this disorder.
In the last few decades, every case of HITH I dealt with was with a customer that called me out to help with their sick fish.
Of all the regular contract clients I had, none, and I mean NONE, EVER had a fish contract this disease. This includes large clients such as the Bahooka Restaurant with over 110 aquariums, most over 75 gallons and many with fish such as Oscars prone to this affliction.
My point as readers will find after reading this article in full, is that prevention is the key.

I state this because there is a lot of anecdotal information about HITH or even simply half truths.

What is Hole in the Head Disease?

HITH or Hexamitiasis (aka Hex) is an affliction that primarily affects Gouramis, Angelfish, Discus, Oscars and other South American cichlids.
A Cichlid has spots on their head which are called sensory pits. These are a series of fluid filled sacs with tiny hairs that sense vibrations and convert them to electrical impulses. Along the lateral lines, sensory pits are responsible for a fish's equilibrium in the water and look like little pin holes, generally arranged in a cluster.
In a HITH outbreak these sensory pits become eroded with ulcerated lesions which expand and coalesce together, forming larger crater-type lesions. They can extend deeper into the muscle and even down to the skull. These open lesions may become secondarily infected with bacteria or fungi and such secondary bacterial infections that may result in death.

A common theory is that HITH is caused by non-absorption of minerals (such as calcium) and vitamins (primarily Thiamine; Vitamin B1) from the intestine due to heavy concentrations of flagellate parasites, like Hexamita.
The importance of Calcium and other electrolytes in aquariums, ponds

It is sometimes believed by aquarists that the protozoan parasite Hexamita caused the skin erosions and therefore treatment is based on attempting to eradicate Hexamita by treatment with Metronidazole.
This is where a half truth does come into play; Often there is a misunderstanding as stated above as to the root causes, however there is also a misunderstanding of what Metronidazole is effective against.
In this article I will not go into detail about Metronidazole other to say that it IS effective against many bacterium and parasites, especially intestinally which can effect absorption of important minerals and vitamins, WHICH IS WHY Metronidazole has been effective even when the cause was misidentified. The bottom line is Metronidazole is both anaerobic anti-bacterial AND anti-protozoal.

Please read more about Metronidazole in this article:
“How Aquarium Medications Work; Metronidazole

Product Resource: Metronidazole from AAP

As someone who sells Metronidazole and has used it, I certainly believe it has benefits, HOWEVER please let me be blunt and state again that with any suspected HITH problem, always start first with water parameters and diet, then MAYBE Metronidazole.
Quoting from a Doctor who works with refugees whom I just listened to a talk from; He noted many are trained to administer Metronidazole to refugees suffering from malnutrition, and severe dehydration resulting in life threatening diarrhea. He stated world health practices has found this to be totally wrong!
He noted that first get fluids and osmotic balance/electrolytes, and most often the patient will recover without Metronidazole and only administer Metroniazole after recovering the patient from the diarrhea.
DITTO YOUR FISH!

Back to Hexamita flagellates, these protozoans main effect as to causing HITH appears to me more indirect as this flagellate protozoan absorbs many of the nutrients in the digestive tract needed by the fish, in particular Thiamine and calcium.
So removal of these parasites with Metronidazole is certainly a worth while aspect of treatment (their presence which can be confirmed by microscopic slides), however this again is just half the problem as correcting nutrient problems is as important or possibly more important.

Thiaminase (an enzyme that metabolizes or breaks down thiamine) is also considered a problem that may be a problem in fish afflicted with HITH.
Thiaminase is introduced via feeding fish such as Goldfish/Fathead Minnows, or via bacteria. Thaimase breaks down thiamine, and thiamine is an important vitamin necessary for carbohydrate metabolism and normal neural activity.
If "feeders" (goldfish sold for the purpose of feeding other fish) are fed as a large portion of your fish’s diet, it likely will develop a thiamine deficiency.
Although many dry prepared foods contain fish flesh that also contains Thiaminase, however the process required to prepare a dry food/pellet likely destroys this enzyme.

There is not conclusive proof that this is a cause of Hole in the Head as Thiamine derivatives and Thiamine dependent enzymes are present in all cells of an animal organisms body, thus a thiamine deficiency would seem to adversely affect all of the organ systems.
However, the nervous system and the heart are particularly sensitive to thiamine deficiency, due to their high oxidative metabolism. This adds questions to this theory in my opinion.
However my own observations and limited tests certainly lead credibility to this theory.
What is also not clear is why this is more of a problem with certain fish and as well, whether the lack of Thiamine is by itself a cause of HITH. Personally I have found that with gut loading of feeders, improved mineralization and Redox that HITH ceases to be a problem even when feeder goldfish are a major part of the diet.

For a related discussion about HLLE, please see this Aquarium Answers Article:
The Lateral Line in Fish as well as Lateral Line Disease or Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

Treatment/Prevention

This is also an area where many half truths are present (and quite honestly much is to be learned as well).
Obviously diet plays a role here, as well as water quality such as Nitrate levels, however what is sometimes missed is the role Calcium (in particular calcium cations) plays in proper osmoregulation and the fish ability to absorb other nutrients.
Often poorly maintained aquariums will see high amounts of acids, poor Redox reduction, high DOC (dissolved organic compounds), and low GH and KH (low GH or positive mineral ions). I have also noted in my service calls that the aquarist (usually with South American fish such as Discus or Oscars) was told to keep a low GH; unfortunately this is a misunderstanding of GH, Redox, and the need for calcium (even in at least small amounts in South American biotope aquariums)!

I would recommend reading this article for further information about the importance of proper Calcium levels in ALL aquariums (even Discus!):
“The Importance of Calcium, GH, KH and Electrolytes in Aquariums”

The Redox Balance (in particular lowering oxidative stress) also plays a more crucial role in prevention and treatment of HITH, as an aquarium that has a poor Redox Balance will likely never allow for recovery from HITH. Redox is directly influenced by a constant supply of mineral cations (found in part in GH), water changes, and mulm buildup.
As well, UV Sterilization has a positive affect on Redox, assuming regular changing of the UV Bulbs. To remain effective, the UV Bulb MUST be changed every six months with a premium high UVC output low pressure lamp, NOT one of the cheap ones that have only 25% of the UVC output commonly sold on eBay & Amazon for prices lower that it cost to make a low pressure HO UV bulb/Lamp.

Please see this article for more about Redox: “Aquarium Redox Potential/Balance”

Product Resource:
Premium High Output UV-C Replacement Bulb

In the end though, often a fish severely afflicted with HITH cannot be totally cured, rather the progression of this affliction can be checked.

STEPS TO TAKE FOR CURE/CONTROLLING/PREVENTION OF HITH (HEXAMITA):

Make regular, frequent but small water changes such as 20-30% per week or even twice per week, The use of a gravel vacuum ensures better removal of decomposing wastes that add acids to the water and lower other water quality parameters such as Redox. It is also noteworthy that both Autotrophic and Heterotrophic bacteria also remove important nutrients from the water column in their life processes.

Lower nitrates, this is important IMO as nitrate levels should be lower than 40 ppm or better, lower than 20 ppm.

Please read this article about the nitrogen cycle for more nitrate information:
"Aquarium (& Pond) Nitogen Cycle"
More about: Nitrates

Vary diet, avoid the use of shell fish, either avoid goldfish feeders OR feed goldfish feeders sparingly And gut load feeders with foods such as AAP Spirulina 20 or similar high vitamin and mineral foods. Feed high quality pellets or crumbles as well (or flakes if the fish will eat them).
However since Freshwater fish do NOT drink the water around them, adding liquid vitamins to the water is not effective. Adding vitamin supplements to a fish food soak or slurry then gut loading larger fish is the best way to ensure the fish absorbs them.

Unfortunately many in the hobby still believe anecdotal advice as per simply adding vitamins directly to the aquarium. HOWEVER an aquarium professional friend made an extensive study whereby the control group had no vitamins added and another group had vitamins added to the water and yet another had the vitamins added to the food.
The result? No difference between the control group and the one with vitamins added to the water. The only improvement were with vitamins added directly to the food or simply part of natural quality fish food that is not over processed.
Please note, many fish foods process out vitamins due to the amount of heat used, which is why besides AAP Spirulina 20, or a DEHYDRATED crumble food such as Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom Fish Food is a BETTER CHOICE.

If Vitamins are to be used, a noted earlier, they are best used to soak into fish foods prior to feeding. More specifically a Vitamin B (with emphasis on B1) is really what is important for HITH.
The best choice is AAP Vitamix Plus.
Resource: AAP Vitamix Plus Premium Aquarium Vitamin Supplement

Also as per feeding, the use of a Medicated Fish Food additive such as AAP Discomed is often very helpful and can help if there are other underlying internal bacterial and parasitic issues.
Reference/Resources:
*AAP Discomed (often a better choice than using Metronidazole in the aquarium)
*Aquarium Medications; Fish Food Delivery

Please read this article about fish nutrition for more about “gut loading”:
"Fish Nutrition, Ingredients Needed for Optimum Fish Growth and Health"

Further Reading:
Do fish drink water?

Quality Premium Fish Food Resources:
*Spirulina 20 from AAP
*Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom Premium All Natural Fish Food (optimized energy levels, proteins, fiber, & vitamins not cooked out; there is NO better prepared fish food bar NONE!)
*AAP/Gamma Nutrashots | Fish, Corals Premium Fish Food

As to gut loading feeder fish (in particular use of goldfish and Rosy Reds); many have attributed the feeding of these fish as well as frozen clams or other shell fish to a major cause of HITH due to the high Thiaminase content of these fish. I will concur with this line of thought based on many clients of mine that refused to feed anything else.
However when mineral content of the aquarium was improved (such as using Wonder Shells), Redox was improved, AND gut loading of feeders was performed, HITH problems did not occur, even when these clients CONTINUED to feed feeder fish.

Please note I am not advocating that feeder goldfish that are gut loaded be used as food, only the importance of other factors that affect HITH must be considered, as well it is noteworthy that I and many others generally note better growth of carnivores such as larger SA Cichlids (especially Piscivore Cichlids) when gut loaded feeder fish are a major part of their diet.

A tablespoon of Epsom salt in a pint (16 oz.) of water can be part of a fish food soak assuming a actual but mild flagellate infestation.

Although GH tests do not give a complete or clear picture of positive calcium ions in an aquariums, it is still a start. Increase GH to at least 100 ppm (better is 200 ppm), AAP Wonder Shells or any other method to constantly supply calcium cations along with water changes help here.
Also make sure your carbonate hardness (KH) is at least 40-50 ppm (over 100 is often necessary for many fish)

With AAP Regular Wonder Shell use, generally only 1/4 dose is required to obtain the benefit needed for a South American or similar biotope.

With a known outbreak of HITH or Hexamitiasis, I strongly suggest the use of a Medicated Wonder Shell at 1/2 to full dose for even South American biotope aquarium fish. Add these along with other suggestions including food and medicated baths.

Product Resource: FRESH AAP Wonder Shells (including unique versions sold nowhere else

If a reliable ORP meter is available, make sure your rH reading is between 23 & 26 according to the formula found here (actually quite important):
Aquarium Redox; Relative Hydrogen Score (rH)

In moderate to severe cases treatment with Metronidazole may also be necessary as well as other antibiotics such as Nitrofurazone.
In some cases of HITH, serious secondary infections occur (such as nodules around the lesions). In this case a strong synergistic antibiotic combination is called for such as the use of AAP Spectrogram

Product Resources:
FAAP Yellow Powder; Premium Nitrofurazone
AAP Spectrogram
Metronidazole (Metroplex from AAP/SeaChem)

A medicated Fish Bath and/or swab can be helpful.
In the bath, I suggest the use of Methylene Blue up to double the recommended in tank strength as per the manufacture along with Metronidazole at double strength as well.
Epsom Salts at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon can be effective in the case of a mild flagellate infestation.
Adding to the bath some power from scraping a Wonder Shell and liquid vitamins can also be helpful.
Keep the fish in the bath for 20-30 minutes.

As well a swab with Methylene Blue in the cap along with a about a 2-5 gallon dose worth of Metronidazole mixed into the cap (from the MB), then applied with a Q-Tip or similar directly to any pits caused by HITH.

Further Information of Fish Baths & Swabs (recommended reading!):
Fish Baths, Dips, & Swabs

Product Resource: Methylene Blue from AAP

Outside Resource: The Krib; Diseases of Apistos

Finally a clean WELL filtered aquarium is a MUST

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium Information
The largest data base of aquarium information available on the Web.

Fish Treatments, How They Work, Which to Use and Not to Use

Freshwater Aquarium Information; Basics to Advanced

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

Aquarium Protein Skimmers, Ozone Generators; Review

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 05 Jan 2008 02:40:00 +0000

Marine (Saltwater) Aquarium Protein Skimmers; Review

Sections include:

Basics (Overview)

Types of skimmers;

Air driven
Venturi (such as TMC V2 Skim)
Aspirating/ Needle Wheel (Such as ASM)
Downdraft
Spray Injection (such as Remora)
Basic Economy Skimmer

Use of Ozone Generators

Troubleshooting

Summary

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/17/19

Information and opinions here are not only based on my experience in the Aquarium Maintenance business (over 30 years) but also of colleagues in the “higher end” aquarium maintenance and design business.

Marine Protein Skimmers are a fast growing technology area of aquarium keeping, as is aquarium lighting, UV Sterilization, Redox, etc.
What may be true today may not be a year from now.
20 years ago I often found the benefits of finicky and unreliable protein skimmers not worth the trouble for the payoff in results when compared to other filtration methods, especially since I could only visit a client once per week.
However, as of the last decade I have to admit a reversal of opinion, and this is based on the much improved protein skimmers of today that are much more reliable and effective and are worth the expense and any extra hassles.

This said, based on emails, question, and discussions with colleagues; these are NOT a beginner piece of aquarium equipment in most instances or at least with the better skimmers such as the ASM or TMC V2.
What I mean is that many of the better Protein Skimmers take some DIY abilities as well as understandings of the principles upon how these devices work such as a venturi.
However I have had discussions with many whereby the consumer cannot seem to ever get their skimmer to work correctly, often resulting in these persons being critical of the device when it was not the device at all upon inspection of the so-called problem/suspect device.

Basics

A protein skimmer is a filtration device which employ a chamber with a column of fine bubbles.
Protein Skimmers are used primarily in marine tanks.
They do not work as readily in freshwater, although there are pond models.

Protein skimming works by a process called adsorption (not to be confused with absorption) which is the attraction of DOC (Dissolved Organic Compounds) onto a suitable surface.
The process takes advantage of the physical nature of DOC (protein based) molecules.
Surface tension attracts organic waste to the bubbles & carries it through the column (called foam fractionation); it is then "skimmed" into a collection cup, where it is then emptied either by hand or a drain (depending on the model).

This process removes nitrogenous waste (protein based organic waste) and is also called "foam refraction".
Protein Skimmers come in pump driven and air driven models. Within the pump driven there are different types: Venturi, Aspirating, Downdraft, and Spray Injection; the first two being most common.
Protein skimmers are often needed to keep nitrates well below .20 ppm for the delicate marine invertebrates such as Acropora Corals.

The advantages of protein skimmers are that they remove nitrogenous waste before they can go through the nitrogen cycle and become nitrates.
The disadvantages are some are messy and can often take frequent adjustments.

I have kept many reef aquariums successfully with and without protein skimmers although I do recommend them for reef aquariums, especially with the much better skimmers now available.

What I personally find interesting, is that many of the aquarists that swear by protein skimmers totally trash UV Sterilizers, yet I have found from experience over the years that often UV sterilizers had more positive attributes than the older protein skimmers (I would not apply this analogy to the high end modern skimmers).
That said, a good Protein skimmer is even better when used in conjunction with the Berlin Filter Method for reef aquaria and should be considered, more so if you are planning on keeping delicate corals.

Further Reference: UV Sterilization; Aquarium UV Sterilizer Use

Air Driven

The co-current air driven models (also called columnar skimmers) are the most basic, although not always the simplest to use as these cheap Skimmers are often temperamental to water levels in the tank and the limewood air stones used by these skimmers clog frequently. These can however, be an inexpensive entry level Skimmer for 10 -60 gallon marine aquariums.
Personally I find these skimmers can be more trouble than they are worth, so I would strongly recommend one of the higher end skimmers recommended further in this article.
This type of Skimmer is ozone compatible, but this can be difficult to control with these air driven Skimmers (Ozone works best with Venturi Skimmers)

Where to purchase: Wooden Air Stones for Protein Skimmers

Venturi

Of the pump driven Skimmers, the co-current Venturi models are the most common and popular.
This style uses a water venturi pump. This is sometimes referred to as an aspirator. The Venturi pushes tank water into the pump which is used to introduce fine bubbles of the correct size and number into the skimmer body.
This Venturi can be used on the air suction side to attach an Ozone Generator for improved Skimmer efficiency (no air pump required for Ozonizer/Ozone Generator use).

The Venturi Skimmer design lends itself to basic low end protein skimmers, that although certainly are not the best, these will still allow for reasonable protein skimming for a lower price. However the higher end Venturi Skimmers, such as the V2, will far surpass the lower end venturi skimmers (such as a Rio Nano Skimmer), due to much better time, bubble exposure time in the current, and its bubble stop that allows for bubble recycling.

As well, not all higher end venturi skimmers are equal, some of the more basic designs such as the Bak Pak work well, but the newer designs such as the V2 Skim by Tropic Marine also has a patented Bubble Stop in which the skimmer is fed 'dirty' water from the aquarium as a means to re-circulate water within the skimmer multiple times before it is returned to the sump or the aquarium.

As previously noted, the Tropic Marine V2 Skim is one of the better ones with the latest in venturi skimmer technology. This skimmer has a venturi injection system which optimizes the perfect mixture of fine air bubbles and water and ensures intensive, efficient skimming and the removal of proteins and other harmful toxins (waste) from the aquarium. This Skimmer also has a Bubble stop feature that essentially re-skims the water as well as prevents bubbles/foam from re-entering the aquarium.

Each time water is re-circulated within the skimmer any air bubbles in that water sample are destroyed and new bubbles are generated by the re-circulating pump venturi apparatus so the air-water contact time begins again for these newly created bubbles.

For the money, the V2 Skim is the best Protein Skimmer you can buy unless you are willing to spend more money for the even more advanced mesh wheel skimmers such as the Warner Marine, ASM skimmer, or similar for what is often a more temperamental skimmer.
Since the TMC is ozone compatible (via the air vacuum created by the venture), the addition of an Ozone Generator can make this a Protein Skimmer that is “second to none” (at any price).

Where to Purchase:
*TMC V2 Skim, Premium Venturi Recirculating Protein Skimmer
*TMC New Technology Ozone Generators

Aspirating; Needle Wheel/ Mesh Wheel

An aspirating or mesh wheel Protein Skimmer generally uses an impeller which consists of a mesh material that is attached to a plate or central axis on the rotor.
The purpose of these modified impellers is to chop the air that is introduced via a venturi apparatus or external air pump into large amounts of very fine bubbles. Because of this, generally an air pump is required for Ozone Generator use

A claimed advantage of this style is, when done correctly, is that these skimmers generally have a larger neck size that allow for less clogging of bubbles/foam. This is due to generally higher bubble production that allow for a wider neck.
My personal opinion, and that of many others in the business, is that one should be cleaning the neck each time one empties the foam cup as the cup generally fills in most skimmers long before this becomes a real issue.

This style is used in by many companies such as Coralife. However I do not recommend the Coralife model.

This style is gaining popularity; however it still has some bugs in that not all of the impellers used by these always chop the air bubbles properly due to anomalies in the flow, and impeller design that can result in pump burn up.

The ASM Protein Skimmer is one of skimmers in this category that I can recommend based on the high end marine aquarists that use it.
What differentiates this aspirating skimmer from the rest is that it has a unique "custom" impeller housed in the specifically modified Power Head that chops the bubbles very finely.

Another aspect of this aspirating skimmer is that it combines a venturi with its custom meshing needle wheel pump. The negative to the ASM Protein Skimmers is the price, as these units will retail for many $100s of dollars. I will also add that I have been told that this skimmer has some issues with the mesh wheel pump, although this has not been confirmed by others in the aquarium maintenance and design business.

Other skimmers in this category include the Warner Marine Skimmer and the Via Aqua Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer.

I currently do not have much feedback from reliable resources on either of these skimmers (although the Warner Marine does come from one trusted source).
The Via Aqua Needle Wheel appears to have a good design and my experience with 80% of their products is usually good, especially for the price.

(Pictures can be clicked to enlarge)

Downdraft

A downdraft protein skimmer injects water under high pressure into tubes that have a foam or bubble generating mechanism. It then carries the air/water mixture down into the skimmer and into a separate chamber.
This design is generally used in large aquarium systems and uses tubes with plastic media (often bio balls) inside to mix water under high pressure and air in the body of the skimmer resulting in foam that collects protein waste into a large collection cup.

Spray Injection

The Spray injection skimmer, such as the Remora, are a take off from the Downdraft Skimmers.
These use a pump to power a spray nozzle, set a few inches above the water level. The spray action entrap and shred the air into very fine bubbles in the base of the unit, which then rise to the collection chamber.

The Spray Injection Skimmer is a fancy new name for the Downdraft style Skimmers which work well in the large industrial size environment in which they were originally designed for, however this design does not lend itself to small sizes well.
This style skimmer can clog with time, is sensitive to water levels, tends to produce a watery muck (instead of foam), and can be temperamental when used in a sump environment.

These skimmers are really being hyped and over promoted by many (often the usual suspects). However I and MOST aquarium professionals, would recommend steering clear of these units.

Although the Remora can work, results are often poor, and the design is flawed.
For the same price a TMC V2 Skim will far out perform the Remora (especially with an added Ozone generator) and for far less money you could probably do just about as well with a Rio Nano Skimmer especially when combined with "NPX Bioplastics Nitrate & Phosphate Reducing Polymer Media" and with SeaChem Matrix added to bio filters.

Where to Purchase:
*NPX Bioplastics Nitrate & Phosphate Reducing Polymer Media
*SeaChem Matrix; Nitrate Remover Bio Filter Media

Basic Skimmers, (Skimmer filter combinations)

A couple of basic skimmers for beginners; Via Aqua Multi Skimmer with small to medium aquariums is relatively simple, with a mechanical filter cartridge, bio filtration ability, and most of all the Multi Filter has a built in UV Sterilizer combination.

For a really simple protein skimmer for a Nano tank I recommend the Rio Nano Skimmer.

Where to Purchase: *Rio Nano Skimmer, HOB Filter

Use of Ozone Generators

As noted earlier in this article, an Ozone Generator can greatly improve efficiency as it enhances flocculation and absorption onto the bubble wall of an air driven or venturi style Protein Skimmer.
As well, the Ozone Generator can also lower many pathogen (such as bacteria and viruses) in the water column, similar and as a compliment to a UV Sterilizer.

The exact increase of efficiency by adding an Ozonizer has not been established by any controlled test that either I have performed or read.
However what is clear (based mostly on observations) is that the amount of waste collected can increase dramatically, especially in skimmers with less than perfect exposure time of fine bubbles in the water column of the skimmer.
As observations have also shown that the addition of an Ozone Generator to a Skimmer will clear a cloudy aquarium at a faster rate than a skimmer without an Ozonizer.

As well, the use of an Ozone Generator allows for less than perfect bubble sizes to still perform reasonable adsorption (the attraction of DOC onto a suitable surface), thus allowing for less efficient skimmers or the use of many skimmers in freshwater ponds or aquariums where the skimmer would otherwise likely produce little waste foam.

HOWEVER it is also noteworthy that while an Ozonizer does perform sterilization, often at lower costs per watt of energy than a UV Sterilizer, these devices are still only a compliment to a UV Sterilizer.

WHY? Because an Ozonizer does not destroy destructive oxidizers and aids in establishing the proper balance of electromagnetism of the water column which can otherwise add oxidative stress to fish as does a UV Sterilizer.
Together an Ozone Generator and UV Sterilizer can improve both sides of the Redox Equation, but alone an Ozone Generator (Ozonizer), especially when used separate from a Protein Skimmer can actually increase oxidative stress.

Please Reference: Aquarium Redox Balance

Protein Skimmer Troubleshooting

Collection Cup filling with water:

Water level too high in skimmer, adjust skimmer upward in sump, tank, or in HOB applications
Check water outlet (or water outlet valve if your Skimmer is so equipped); make sure there is proper flow.
Check bubbles; make sure you have adequate fine mist bubbles.
For air driven Protein Skimmers make sure you can blow through the wooden air stone relatively easily, otherwise replace. Check the air pump as well.
For Venturi Skimmers, make sure your venturi is adjusted properly, with the air intake facing outward in some protein skimmers when inserted into the pump exhaust nozzle. Make sure that the pump itself is properly drawing and expelling water.
For Needle Wheel, check pump flow as with the venturi, as well check the impeller that “chops” the air bubbles for damage or impediments.

No foam in the Collection Cup

This is normal for a new skimmer set up. The proper dry foam that is needed to collect the protein in the salt water, will take approximately 12 to 34 hours to start skimming. In new tanks, with little or no bio load, this may even take a few weeks.
If there is adequate bio load and salinity, you may have to make very minor adjustments in skimmer height, relative to water level and make adjustments to venturi inlet.
If powerhead driving a Venturi protein skimmer is too deep in the water, an insufficient amount of fine bubbles will be generated. The powerhead should be as close to the surface as possible, as increased depth will affect the ability of the Venturi to draw in air, reducing the skimming efficiency.
A good counter current is important as well, as this is in part how Protein skimmers work. They use a fine mist of bubbles against a counter current of water.

Bubbles are escaping the Skimmer into the tank

Often this is caused by chemicals that have been added which result in increased surface tension of the water. Stress coats, de-chlorinators, medications, and water conditioners (which are present in most synthetic salt mixes) are just some of the additives that will cause this to happen.
Carbon will help to remove the compounds that cause this problem, as well many of the better high end Protein Skimmers have “Bubble Stops” to prevent this and recycle these bubbles such as the Tropic Marin V2 Skimmers

Conclusion

Here are some important aspects to consider to a purchase a skimmer that performs correctly:

Contact time of bubbles and water inside the chamber (the longer the reaction chamber, the better in most cases)

The size and consistency of the bubbles produced (very fine bubbles are best)

The relative volume of bubbles produced

The ratio of air to water

The turbulence or friction inside the reaction chamber which may cause poor efficiency in some poorly designed units.

The neck size is important as well, a smaller neck (which is to allow for lower bubble production), can clog easier and may need to be cleaned more frequently.

The addition of Ozone can greatly increase efficiency of an ozone compatible protein skimmer such as venturi or air driven model

Please beware of claims of some high priced skimmers such as Spray Injection models as these units do not have the contact time (due to short/small reaction chamber) to maximize protein refraction.
Although units such as these do have excellent size and volume of bubbles, the small size of the reaction chamber minimizes effectiveness so that one of these units may perform better than similar size entry level skimmers such as the air driven Lee’s or the Rio Nano venturi skimmers. The price at nearly $200 is nowhere near the increase in effectiveness over a Rio Nano Skimmer (or similar) that costs under $30 as a price vs. increase in effectiveness comparison.

Finally, consider how much you can afford and your time as well. Obviously if you plan to keep SPS corals, I would consider a premium Protein skimmer a must, however even here, your time needs to be considered.
For example, the mesh/needle wheel skimmers tend to be on the cutting edge of marine protein skimming, HOWEVER the issues of pump burn out and the temperamental nature of these skimmers may make these a lesser choice for many. I personally still find the advanced venturi V2 Skim an excellent choice when these potential issues are considered, especially with the addition of an Ozone Generator

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites

Aquarium Lighting, Information
The Most researched and up to date Aquarium Light Information web article

Marine Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced

Premium Tropic Marin Pro Reef Sea Salt from Germany
There is simply NO BETTER Reef Sea Salt (marine fish too)

TMC V² Bio Fluidized Sand Bed Aquarium Filters

Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with Oolitic Sand also maintain essential marine aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL marine life

San Francisco Bay Brand Seaweed Salad

"Seaweed Salad" is much more nutritious than spinach and lettuce. This product is recommended for all freshwater Algae Eaters, African Cichlids, Silver Dollars, Sharks, all saltwater Damsels, Clownfish, and especially Marine Angels and Tangs

API/Rena Filstar High Performance Canister Filters & Parts
Premium Canister Aquarium Filters

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

*Melafix Dangers; when used for Bettas, Labyrinth Fish?

Power Head, & Water Pump Review; Aquarium & Pond

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 15 Dec 2007 22:28:00 +0000

REVIEW OF AQUARIUM (& POND) POWER HEAD, PROPELLER, & WATER PUMPS BASED ON REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE (including comments on about.com and thereeftank.com reviews):

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 35+ years experience
Updated 5/6/20

Index;

Overview
Basic Pump Types
Head Pressure
Rio (Taam) PowerHead Water Pumps
Rio HF Water Pumps
Maxi Jet Power Heads
SunSun Power Heads
SunSun Water Pumps
Marineland Power Heads
Hagen Power Heads
Jebaeo & Finnex Pumps
ZooMed Power Sweep
Hydor Koralia Propeller Pumps
Seio Propeller Pumps
VorTech Propeller Pumps
PondMaster Pumps
Via Aqua Power Head Submersible Pumps

Overview;

First I would like to recommend readers to look at the following webpage to better understand what aquarium, pond, fountain water pumps would fit their needs best and why:
Water Pump Specifications, Recommendations, Limitations

COMMENTARY:

As to the review, which unlike most articles here at Aquarium/Pond Answers, this one is admittedly more subjective rather than objective since these were not controlled studies in the strictest scientific since.
HOWEVER these are based on decades of experience, much mentoring, experimentation, & going with what the popular fad or believing everything a product salesperson told me.
While not to pick on about.com, however after an interesting email form a hobbyist about aquarium power heads/pumps I thought I would investigate what is being said in reviews and stumbled across an article with the reviews of five different power heads at about.com.

This is also not to say I've been perfect from my selection of pumps or did not fall for what a salesperson told me, but I will point out that I learned from mistakes and sought out mentoring (often from engineers as to what a design difference would mean).

A good example back in the late 90s was the Rio 3100 Pump. I was told the new "hinged" impeller was an improvement, so I installed a couple on a new pond build to run a pair of "under-rock" filters powering a pair of UV Sterilizers.
While they ran great for a short time, the hinges broke in short order. I replaced the pumps for my client only to see this happen again. I later simply installed a pair of Rio 20HF Pumps and had no further problems.

Back to the review, many pumps are left of from popular "cool kids" reviews where there was clearly no professional consultation. These reviews often left off some of the best aquarium and pond power head/ water pumps then their reviews were quite contrary to my extensive experience with these pumps in literally 100s if not thousands of aquariums & ponds over the years in my aquarium/pond maintenance business.

Basic Pump Types:

I would like to start out that aquarium water pumps come in three basic designs:

The Power Head Pump such as the Maxi-Jet and SunSun PH; these are best for use with sponge filters or under gravel filter lift tube and thus acting as part of a filter system.
This type generally does not have as much head pressure as the submersible pump style and for this reason these do not work well for applications such as running Ultra Violet (UV) Sterilizers, Fluidized Sand Bed Filters, or similar.
However this style or even more so the Circulation/Propeller pump is often better for running wave makers than the submersible pump style as these tend to work better in the constant re-start environment of wave makers (I should note that not all true power heads work well here either such as the Marineland).

True UV Sterilizer & FSB Filter Resources:
*UV Sterilizer, Clarifier for Aquarium, Pond
*AAP Premium Fluidised Bed Aquarium Bio Filters

The Submersible Water Pump such as the Via Aqua and Rio PowerHead/Pump series can function both as an inline submersible pump for sumps, fountains and even ponds as well as for power head applications (such as the Rio 600).

This is a VERY BROAD category, with really small models such as the 85 gph Rio 90 up to really big models for ponds or aquarium systems such as the 4755 gph AAP JAP-18000.
The design however is similar from the smallest to the largest.

Some important points to this popular and large category of aquarium/pond water pump:
- With smaller versions, often ceramic shafts are used for noise and heat reductions, but these do not fare well in larger models (much over 750 gph).
- With ALL models, power failures or surges can cause them to not re-start when normal power returns (especially if water has high particulate or mineral loads such as often found in many marine aquarium & pond applications). Even more noteworthy is that with larger models, if the impeller is left seized/frozen, this can burn out the pump magnetic windings very quickly as evidenced in warping or burning of the impeller well.
- As noted in the previous point, for aquarium applications this style pump does not function as well in the environment of being connected to electronic wave makers as the design of the impeller & impeller well does not lend itself to constant starts and re-starts (the best are the propeller pumps)
- Beware that many of these submersible water pumps will add wattage and/or larger impellers for higher flow rates designs without "beefing up" the size and weight of the magnetic windings. This can result in a shorter lifespan of the pump due to premature failure of the electromagnet.
  An example is/was the Via Aqua 2100 versus the 1300. Both had the same size electromagnetic windings, but the 2100 pulled a higher wattage with a larger impeller resulting in it being a shorter lived pump.
  For another comparison, the AAP JAP 8500s larger cousin the 18000 outweighs it by about 3 lbs just due to the larger magnetic windings
- Before I seem to throw this style of submersible water pump "under the bus", this is probably the most versatile style of pump you can purchase without spending "big bucks" for a generally reliable pump if properly used. These can be major circulation pumps with excellent head pressure for aquariums or ponds or even be used as a power head too as shown in the picture to the right of a Rio 600 converted to a power head for use on a sponge filter or under-gravel filter
Propeller/Circulation Pump:
The final pump "type" I will review is the newer propeller style. the Hydor Koralia, AAP/Rio Seio, and AAP/SunSun are popular types of this style pump.
These have almost no head pressure (and as such are utterly useless for powering any device).
However these pumps shine for wave maker use and use the least amount of energy for the water they do move (at 0 head pressure). Another advantage is that these are a very "clean" (aesthetically speaking) water pump application and these pluses make them popular with Reef Enthusiasts.

Finally I will note that most of these pump types (including the basic submersible such as the Via Aqua 305) and with the exception of the propeller pumps have an aeration attachment feature for drawing/injecting air into the water column re-entering the aquarium from the water pump.

See the picture to the left that demonstrates this using a SunSun JP series Power Head.

Head Pressure:

An aspect of any water pump that is often forgotten, yet can be a significant factor in choosing the correct pump is head pressure.
The most simple description of head pressure is that this is the force placed on the "head" (outlet) of the pump by gravity, weight of the water column past this point, and devices in-line past this point that often constrict or impede flow (such as UV Sterilizer or Fluidized Filter).
Most aquarium water pumps are open impeller designs that are greatly affected by head pressure. Propeller pumps, just by their design, can handle almost no head pressure and thus are only intended for under water applications with no lifting of water out or into an aquarium.
A few pumps such as the Rio HF Pump series have partially closed designs that can handle much more head pressure and are better suited for lifting water through multiple devices or deep sumps (as well as water features in ponds).

The bottom line is regardless of the pump design you choose, know its maximum head pressure so as to calculate what the actual flow will be with the devices you might add in-line.
For instance, do NOT expect a 500 gph pump with a maximum head pressure of 5 feet to pump any more than 300 gallons per hour lifting water 2 feet from a sump to the aquarium.

For a much more in-depth and objective article dealing with calculating aquarium/pond pump head pressure, please see this article:
Head Pressure in Aquarium and Pond Water Pumps

Here are several pump & power head lines I will review (including refutations of others comments if necessary):

Rio Plus PowerHead Water Pumps

*Rio (by Taam); Originally the "Standard" for submersible aquarium, fountain, and pond pumps as per aquarium maintenance professionals; Rio was later surpassed by their break-away sister company "Via Aqua" with many comparable models based on my professional use (Via Aqua/Commodity Axis has since merged back with Rio/Taam after a hostile Mainland China use of their designs).

However of late, Rio has improved their design of the Rio "Plus" Water pump line with a much better impeller design and it has leaped back over their sister company Via Aqua (which now has few models due to takeover) to once again be the "King" of reliable aquarium, small pond, & fountain water pumps/power heads in their price range.
The Standard Rio Plus Pump has shed the flawed hinged impeller and now has a very durable impeller, along with an excellent epoxy sealed electromagnet motor

Rio pumps & power heads are very powerful with excellent head pressure (depending on the model). Depending upon model, these can be used to run sponge filter or undergravel filters (smaller models up to the 1100) and run sump systems in larger models.
The cons with the impellers as of the most recent update are no longer a "con" as the impeller design has been vastly improved to now surpass their sister Via Aqua Pumps in durability.

These Rio Plus Aquarium & Fountain Water Pumps are among the best aquarium sump, pumps for powering equipment such as needle wheel skimmers, small pond or fountain pumps.
The Rio pumps are also reasonably good at starting up when used as wave makers and are properly maintained, although this is not their best use.

Let me now address this comment from about.com:
"These units are known to fail and leak lubricants back into tanks.".
This is simply NOT TRUE.

I have used not just a couple, rather 100s if not 1000s of these Rio Plus Pumps and failures are rare, especially since the impeller design was improved and more importantly I have NEVER had one Rio "leak lubricants" (there are no lubricants if about.com ever took the time to take one apart before spreading another internet myth), so this is a ludicrous statement!
Clearly this is another reason to be wary of about.com (now called "The Spruce"), including their scientifically incorrect information about Detritus Worms in aquarium, falsely identifying these annelid worms as the flatworm planaria with some serious implications.
UPDATE: since changing their name to "The Spruce" they seem to be cleaning up their act and have now corrected this mistake.
Reference: Aquarium Planaria, False Identification

Another complaint found in Amazon Reviews (which are also not often trustworthy when one considers the dishonest reviews of the Smart Filter & Green Cleaning Machine) is that the Rio Pumps are noisy. Even the first generation Rio pumps were not noisy, yet alone the newer models with improved impeller designs.
I have used 100s of these pumps, and not one time did any client complain of noise. My guess is since these are a powerful pump, is the persons did not secure the pump correctly, allowing vibration.
Further Reading: Aquarium Myths; The Myth of using Community Driven Reviews as a way to determine product quality

Where to Purchase:
*Rio Power Head Aquarium and Pond Water Circulation Pumps
Such as the popular Rio 1100 pump
*Rio 1100 Water Pump

Rio HF (High Flow) Aquarium/Pond Water Pumps

*Rio, Taam HF Series Water Pumps; the newer HF (High Flow) series is without equal when power, performance and especially head pressure (the ability to lift water vertically) are compared with price for all these abilities.

These pumps hold a patent for their design which includes the unique vortex rotor blade, rare earth magnet and more.

The Rio HF Water pumps are what I would recommend for large aquariums with sumps well below the aquarium and/or with many applications to run.
As well the Rio HF is often a good choice for ponds with water features such as water falls or spitters that exceed 5 feet above the pond level as these pumps often have head pressures of double similar gallon per hour pumps.
For example the Rio 26 HF has a maximum head pressure of 13 feet and it still maintains 75% of its water volume at 6 feet.

Where to Purchase:
*Rio HF Pond, Aquarium Water Pumps
*Rio Model 26 HF Water Pump

Maxi-Jet Power Heads

*Maxi Jet Power heads; I will have to agree the most with other commentaries as to this power-head pump.
They are reliable and relatively economical and start back up easily even when used as wave makers (which is an application these pumps are popular for use in).
In fact these are one of the best earlier/1st generation Power Head (only) aquarium pumps.

The newest version of the Maxi-Jet are a convertible circulation/power-head pump. The flow rate is much higher when used as a circulation pump. Example the Maxi-Jet model 600 is rated for 600 gph as a circulation/propeller pump and 160 gph as a power head

The only negative with this pump is the head pressure is poor, but then this is not really what this pump is designed for.

Where to purchase to support the professional aquarium hobby:
Maxi-Jet 600 Pro Water and Circulation Pump from AAP

AAP/SunSun Water Pumps

The SunSun line of aquarium products, in particular the pond, aquarium, and fountain water pumps are relatively new to the North American market, however with the demise of Via Aqua, they are producing many of the same niche of "good value" aquarium, pond, sump, & fountain pumps often based on the exact same designs (sometimes actually "borrowed").
In fact SunSun now has a much larger line of versatile aquarium/pond water pumps from basic power heads and simple fountain pumps, to large amphibious and high efficiency pond pumps

After issues with a dishonest aquarium product distributor and reseller that had a part in Via Aqua's demise, I started looking for alternatives and was pointed to this company and its new North American distributor by more than one aquarium professional. It is also noteworthy that SunSun builds to order, so the same model pump may not be to the same quality or even specs as another depending upon price paid and specification requested.

What has come to my attention more and more after about a year of use is the quality and especially the head pressure of these SunSun water pumps.
In fact I found these pumps superior in flow & head pressure to the Via Aqua and many other pumps I was looking to replace.

AAP/SunSun also produces some excellent medium to heavy duty pumps that are excellent for aquarium system use or medium to large ponds.
Two of note is the super high output JAP-18000 Pump which is an excellent high head pressure pump that is amphibious, meaning it can be in or out of the water.
The other is the SunSun JTP-12000 High Output & Efficiency Pump which uses only 100 watts to produce a flow rate of 3170 GPH.

Where to Purchase:
*AAP/SunSun JTP-12000 High Output & Efficiency Water Circulation Pump
*AAP/SunSun JAP-8500 & 18000 Amphibious Water Circulation Pump, Pond or Large Aquarium System
*TMC Pond Advantage UV Clarifiers, Sterilizer

AAP Power Heads

The AAP JT Pro 132 pumps are an excellent economy based water pump & powerhead. Definitely one of the best for the price (although the Maxi-Jet is the best when price is not considered)

Bluntly speaking, the Maxi Jet is a design that requires little improvement (I am of the opinion if you design something correctly the first time, little needs to be changed).
What this AAP JT-132 pump has over the Maxi Jet is a more economical pump that has the good reliability and performance!

When compared to other economy water pumps/powerheads such as the Penguin or Aqua Clear, not only is this a better price, but generally MORE reliable!

Where to Purchase: AAP JT-132 Aquarium Water/Power-Head Pumps

Marineland Penguin Power Heads

*Penguin Power Heads; I do not generally agree with assessment by about.com on these power heads. Although they do have a neat feature with the reverse flow power head for UG filters (which are not very common anymore), the other nice feature is the adjustable flow feature.
However nice these features are, these power heads have a poor track record for reliability, they have very poor head pressure, and do not re-start well after the pumps have been in service for a while (in applications such as wave makers).

*Jebaeo/Jebo & Finnex Pumps

The review of these two brands is quite simple, both are extreme economy brands that are designed for quick cheap sales by discounters, most definitely not quality aquarium stores or online sellers.
I personally know a distributor for these and other Chinese brands and he also will back up this statement. My own use in particular of the Jebaeo pumps (aka Jebo) is that these are far from durable pumps (in part due to their underrated electromagnet windings).

The warranty on these lines also speak volumes, with the Jebaeo there is NO warranty. If you purchase a Jebaeo and the seller states there is a warranty, either they are lying or they are self backing the pump (good luck if this business sticks around).
The warranty for the Finnex is 6 months with many exclusions.

Another reason I would recommend against the purchase of these pumps is since these are sold via eBay, Amazon, and other purely "here today, gone tomorrow" discounters, is the harm this does to the hobby and industry.
I know for a fact many good top notch local stores, full information retailers, as well as full service distributors/manufacturers are falling by the wayside. The end results may someday be no one to provide good hobby support both directly and indirectly to the hobby. I know this view is shared by many professionals in the industry as well.

The bottom line is to do yourself a favor unless you need something cheap to hold you over until you can purchase a better pump and pass on the purchase of either of these brands of pumps.

Hagen Aqua Clear Power Head

*Hagen Aqua Clear Power Heads; this pump is also over rated by about.com in my extensive experience with them.
I have used more Aqua Clear power heads than ANY other (including the Via Aqua pumps).
When these power heads first came out they were industry leaders in design, however they are of 1980s technology IMO and although they are better than Penguins in reliability and head pressure, they still would stop and not re-start in many of my applications when power was even briefly interrupted, making them a poor choice for wave maker applications.

Aqua Clear power heads also do not handle high organic/debris loads well and need more maintenance than the Rios that about.com incorrectly claimed needed!
Bottom line with Aqua Clear power heads is that they are reasonable “retro” pumps, but certainly NOT the latest in technology!

ZooMed Power Sweep

*ZooMed Power Sweep; even though I sold these in my business (and I generally like ZooMed as a company), I rarely recommended them.
They are basically a gimmicky power head with poor head pressure and low output. They are not real durable and the “sweeping” directional output feature is run by cheap plastic gears that often fail. These pumps do not handle high bio loads well and are best used in small aquariums or better vivariums where not much is asked of them.

Hydor Koralia Propeller Pump

*Hydor Koralia Propeller Pumps;
The Hydor Koralia is among the first besides the over priced Tunze Pumps to market a propeller type design to the aquarium hobby, and Hydor does this at a much better price than Tunze.
The propeller design is an excellent idea for low power consumption, yet high water movement in a surprisingly gentle flow of which it owes its gentle flow pattern to its design. The Hydor Koralia Propeller Pump attaches to an aquarium via a magnet that attaches to the glass from the outside holding the motor unit on the inside to the glass.

This is an excellent pump for Reef Aquariums due to this unique design and flow pattern and a pump many of my friends in the professional aquarium maintenance and design business like for certain applications.
These applications are generally tanks under 80 gallons where this flow design is advantageous for crowded reef aquariums and a strong current is desired without the strong smaller diameter column of water generated by most other mag drive pumps.

These propeller pumps (or better the Seio) are also excellent and reliable for use as wave makers (unlike most power head pumps, that are not designed for this type of application as they have too “heavy” a designed for “on/off” applications)

HOWEVER, this pump is not without its faults and unfortunately there are several.
Here are a few problems as noted by these professionals:

Low quality design that easily breaks including the impeller if debris (which is easily brought into it) comes in contact with the impeller. Also if the unit falls from the glass, it can break easily.
High price per actual performance; the Hydor Koralia 1 generally sells for twice what a Via Aqua 1300 sells for of the same performance and quite bluntly has a much less durable design than the VA 1300.
The relatively newer Seio 320 Propeller Pump is a vastly better choice when value is considered
The magnets can let go and often do in aquariums with 3/8 inch or thicker glass (although this is a rare problem in tanks with ¼ inch glass which is why they are a reasonably good pump choice in tanks under 80 gallons
In Larger tanks standard power heads such as the Rio 1700 are simply a more durable and better choice.
When used as a wave maker many report a lot of noise (although many pumps can have this problem).
(6) They are purely water movement pumps and CANNOT be used to run UV Sterilizers, Sumps, or any other application where a pump with a standard outlet that can be hard plumbed or added vinyl tubing is necessary.

Seio Propeller Pump

*Seio (Rio) Propeller Pumps;
The Seio Propeller Aquarium Pumps are finally past the testing phase in aquarium maintenance use where I can make some notes based on the use of many Seio pumps.

Unlike my recently hoped for but disappointed tests with the internal UV Sterilizers (marketed by Jebo/Jebaeo, JBJ, Killing Machine) where I was really hopeful for a new cutting edge product, but let down after use; The Seio Propeller Pumps have passed with the quality I hoped for.
The Seio Propeller Pump is vastly more economical than the Hydor Koralia with a better ceramic design as well as a more compact size. As with most other propeller pumps, the Seio is the best design for use with wave makers.

I would recommend this propeller pump over the Hydor Koralia.
The Seio 320 (320 gph) is best for ¼ inch thick glass, while the Seio 530 produces a flow of 530 gph (2000 LPH) and is recommended glass thickness 3/8" or less.
The Seio 320 is comparable to the Hydor Koralia 1 (actualy slightly more output), but is also almost half the price with a more compact reliable design.
If you in need of a propeller aquarium pump, this is definitely the pump you should consider!

Where to purchase: Seio Propeller Water Circulation Pumps

VorTech Propeller Pump

*VorTech MP40 Propeller Pumps;
This propeller pump has become the latest fad in reef keeping circles, and in part for some good reasons, but unfortunately it also has some serious flaws too.

The VorTech MP40 Propeller Pump in particular has some nice features such as wireless control and battery back up. It is also a well designed pump with many wave and broad flow & flow rate options.

One feature that is touted by many is not a really positive when one examins it in more depth with years of experience using magnetic drive pumps. Unfortunately the magnetically coupled design for driving the impeller in the water from outside the aquarium or pump housing has been tried before.
The magnet required for this feature unfortunately is easily uncoupled from the electromagnetic current from outside the glass, often due to debris in the water.
The more common method of using an impeller in a magnetic well certainly has its drawbacks too, but impeller uncoupling from the magnetic current is much less common with this design (the before mentioned manufacturer went back to an impeller well design after too many of their filters ceased functioning because of impeller uncoupling).

This magnetically coupled design is also touted because you have have no risk from electrical malfunction inside the aquarium. However this too is a misguided attribute, as in literally over 1000s of magnetic drive pumps I have used inside the aquarium; when the pump did fail, there NEVER was any disastrous electrical meltdown or similar in part due to the fail safe epoxy design.

Another cool feature is the "VorTech Battery Backup" touted as "reef tank insurance in an aluminum housing". While not a new idea, since I have been using and even designed my own as far back as 1988, this is the feature I like best.
However the jury is still out on this feature as many who have purchased this have had it fail when needed most!

In the end, with the high price, I think this is a cool product that is also "buyer beware" since this well marketed and over hyped product is more of one of those products where you could do better purchasing a more proven propeller pump such as the Seio or Hydor and a Wave-maker to go with it.
As well more proven air powered back up pumps or your own DIY Inverter/RV battery back up system could be designed.

Further Reference for Power Outage Answers:
Aquarium Power Failure, Tank Moving

Where to purchase alternative products:
Hydor Smart Wave-Maker
Non-Stop AC/DC Pumps

Eugene Danner (Supreme) Pond Master Pump

This is a "tried and true" line of light to medium duty primarily pond, but also aquarium sump pumps.
These are among the first epoxy filled/electromagnet water circulation pumps, and are still better than many.

I personally have used these for now decades with at least reasonable results, mostly in small pond applications

My only complaint is when compared to the more modern Taam/Rio HF series at a slightly lower cost and with vastly superior head pressure and slightly better reliability, these are simply not a good value.
The newer yet SunSun line, while not as tried and true as either the Pondmaster or Rio HF series, has already proved in about 2 years of use (as of 2013) to be AT LEAST as reliable with equal and better head pressure for a MUCH better price.
Good example of superior head pressure and value pumps are the Rio 32HF and SunSun JAP-8500 pumps

The bottom line is while still a good water pump, the PondMaster is simply obsolete when compared with other newer generation water pumps when value and head pressure are factored in. For this reason I personally have ceased selling all but one model of this pump

Where to purchase:
*Rio 32 HF Medium/Heavy Duty Pond/Sump Pump
*SunSun JAP-8500 Heavy Duty Amphibious Pump for Pond/Aquarium Systems

Via Aqua Power Head/Submersible Pump

*Via Aqua; this is a real workhorse line of pumps that is VERY widely used in the professional aquarium maintenance community yet when available rarely got mentioned by many consumer driven reviews.

Unfortunately Via Aqua has ceased production of the excellent value pump, in part due to the economy, but mostly due to unethical practices by another company.

These pumps in the power head line (not the basic line) also have ceramic shafts and very durable construction. Via Aqua pumps (along with SunSun) can be used in sumps or as a power head and have excellent head pressure.
The Via Aqua power head line (such as the VA 1300) can be submersed or used in line which adds to versatility that not all pumps can match. For Aquarium sumps (usually in marine applications) the Via Aqua 2600, and 8000 are unsurpassed in usefulness, especially when costs vs. performance is compared.

Again the only con is these pumps can be a little noisy, but only when used in line. Via Aqua power heads (as with SunSun, Rio among others) are also not as adjustable in flows as some other power heads, but this a minor inconvenience IMO. This inconvenience is more than made up for in versatility!

I will also admit to a couple of models by Via Aqua that I not recommend due to less than desirable durability and these are the 2100, 2300, and 4900 (the 4900 has failed miserably every test I have performed on them).

Where to purchase:
*Via Aqua 1300; Now SunSun HJ 1542
*Via Aqua 2600; Now SunSun HQB-3500
*Via Aqua 8000; Now Superior SunSun JAP 8500

SUMMARY:

I have had persons also ask me why many brands such as SunSun, Rio or Via Aqua are not as commonly available as Hagen and does that make them of lower quality as no one really wants them?
The answer is quite simple; Hagen is sold through a larger network of mainline Pet Store distributors (although they are now transitioning to their own in house distribution system). This system promotes an all or nothing approach to marketing their products basically meaning you carry the whole line (good and bad) or not get discounts or even sell anything at all. This marketing system has been very successful (not to mention slick packaging), however this does not mean a better product.
Rio (among many other professional brands) do not sell through traditional marketing distribution methods and systems, rather it sells many high end Marine fish importers and similar without all the expensive marketing gimmicks.
This in particular places their products in the hands of Aquarium Maintenance Professionals who do not care about slick marketing or whether it is the fad, rather whether it works or not which is why Via Aqua and many other similar high end companies choose to sell this way.
Here are a few more manufactures that sell only (or partly) through high end distributors as well: Sanders, Tropic Marine, Liquid Life, SeaChem, SPS, Two Little Fishies, AAP Wonder Shells (not to be confused with Weco Wonder Shells sold at Amazon & elsewhere) and many more.

If no stores in your area sell Rio (Taam), Seio, AAP, Tropic Marine or similar it is that they choose to buy from the one size fits all mainline distributors that also are the primary stockers of stores such as PetCo as well.

Other Recommended Reference/Product Sites

Freshwater Aquarium Basics

Marine Aquarium; Basics to Advanced

Aquarium Lighting
The Internets most researched and up to date Aquarium Light Information

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

Aquarium & Pond Plumbing Parts
Unique and often difficult to locate parts to help plumb your aquarium or pond system.
This includes diverter valves, back flow check valves, couplings and more

UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs

For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output medium pressure bulbs commonly sold at Amazon or eBay

The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Submersible Heaters:

Aquarium Heaters

Mollies in Aquariums; Molly Disease, Shimmies

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:34:00 +0000

KEEPING MOLLY FISH IN AQUARIUMS & MOLLY DISEASE (Shimmies/ Livebearer Disease)

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 5/12/21

Sections include:

Basics, Overview

Molly Disease (aka Livebearer Disease, Shimmies)

Summary

The Molly is from the same Genus as the guppy and Endlers livebearer; Poecilia and the family: Poeciliidae, the same as other livebearers.
One of the earliest described (& kept) Mollies was the sailfin molly, in 1821 as Mollienesia latipinna by the naturalist Charles Alexandre Lesueur.
The other is the common "short finned" Molly; Poecilia sphenops, which is one of the ancestors of the popular black mollies.

Mollies wild habitat consists of fresh, brackish, and coastal waters from the Carolinas to Texas, peninsular Florida, and the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico.
Mollies prefer marshes, lowland streams, swamps, and estuaries.

Mollies do not have any one exact habitat in common, including salinity (despite some misconceptions here).
What they do have in common is water high in alkalinity, Calcium and General Hardness.

References:
*Aquarium Chemistry; Alkalinity, KH
*Aquarium Chemistry; GH, Minerals

Mollies only thrive in water that is very high in GH and Calcium (a GH over 250 ppm GH), pH over 7.8, KH over 100+ (ppm), and some salt, about 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon or 3-4 liters (or 1.002 to as high as 1.006 specific gravity).
Mollies can easily survive in a specific gravity (salinity) of 1.012 which will not support parasites such as “ich” that may infest them at lower salinities.

What many hobbyists do not understand about mollies and their natural habitat is that although salt is very useful for disease prevention, it is the other ingredients in Marine Salt that really make a difference in Molly health, and that is Calcium, Magnesium and the many other major/trace elements along with electrolytes available there in.

What ALL Molly habitats have in common is hardness/high mineral water, NOT salt (although added true sea salt can be helpful during times of stress for all Mollies)!

Understanding this will go a long ways in keeping healthy, happy mollies.
WITHOUT adequate calcium, magnesium and other essential elements in the water as well as a healthy Redox Balance (in other words, a constant supply of mineral Cations), you will most likely have trouble maintaining a healthy Molly population in your aquarium.
With the right parameters, Mollies can be one of the easier fish to breed and keep and be very enjoyable fishy pets.

If salt is kept with mollies, I often use marine salt and then I will use the best possible to provide natural bio available salts & pharmaceutical ingredients to insure high purity.
For this I recommend Tropic Marin Reef Salt from Germany (which is sold by the pound to make it more readily available for smaller uses).

Further Reading/Reference: Aquarium Redox

Maintaining correct Calcium and other necessary element levels will aid in healthy osmoregulation which will in turn result in healthier more disease resistant fish.
Further Reference: “How do Fish Drink; Proper Osmotic Function”

You can maintain Mollies in a community tank with many but only the most sensitive South American Fish.
Other livebearers that do not have as high of mineral requirements will also do well in an aquarium that is at least kept to minimum Molly requirements.

If you intend to keep Mollies in a community aquarium with other fish such as Platties, Gouramis, etc; here are the minimum requirements I would suggest:

pH – 7.5 - 8.0

KH -100 – 150+ ppm

GH – 200 -300+ ppm (important!)

Best maintained with a fresh supply mineral Cations for osmotic regulation and to lower oxidative stress. The AAP Wonder Shell is your "best bet" here.

Salt (quality marine or cichlid salt is best here, NOT cheap "aquarium salt" such as that sold sold by API) – 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons to 1 teaspoon per gallon

Strongly Recommended Product Resource: AAP-Tropic Marine Pro Reef Salt from Germany, Also for Mollies, etc.

Here are a few products I would suggest for maintaining these levels:

AAP Premium Wonder Shells; (the ONLY Authorized full online retailer with the freshest product, unlike clearance product sold elsewhere including Amazon that are often missing important mineral Cations)
These are great for maintenance of GH, Calcium, Magnesium, Positive mineral ions (cations essential for Redox Balance & long term fish health) and other essential elements and are also safe and in fact quite useful for general community tank essential element maintenance.
Wonder Shells are also available in a Medicated version from high end retailers

Sea Chem Buffer (Marine OR Malawi);
This is useful for increasing KH and maintaining a safe AND BALANCED alkalinity/KH level (unlike Baking Soda!).
Please see this article for more about this subject:
“Aquarium Chemistry; Basics to Advanced”

AAP/SeaChem StressGuard;
An excellent TEMPORARY Redox reducer. StressGuard contains protein active colloids. This protein active colloidal agent actively seeks out any wounds, abrasions, or places where exposed proteins are and attaches to this area to help directly deliver the disinfectant in the product and start the healing process
Please see this article for more about this subject:
Aquarium Disease Prevention; Treatments to have on hand

Aragonite, oolitic sand, oyster shell or crushed coral in a filter bag;
Of these aragonite or oolitic sand is the best, however all are poor at to reacting to rapid changes in water chemistry that can affect GH and KH which is why I recommend the first two more (although in a well maintained, non over crowded aquarium, rapid changes should be uncommon).
Oolitic sand is even more effective when used in a Fluidized Sand Bed Filter.
Product Reference: TMC Premium FSB Filters, Including Oolitic Media Option

Feeding:
Mollies are omnivores and will eat most foods offered, however a Molly must have quality vegetable matter in their diet for optimum health such as Spirulina.
Two highly recommended foods that contain Spirulina would be AAP Spirulina 20 & Clay Neighbor's AAPs Custom Omnivore Diet
This should be supplemented with live, frozen or Freeze Dried worms, Brine Shrimp or similar foods.

As well, with a Molly's short but energetic life, quality protein sources such as whole Menhaden fish meal, shrimp meal, and/or egg whites along with fiber rich binders such as pea flour.
Also important is optimizing the energy levels in the diet, as most commercial fish foods (even those considered premium), do not properly optimize fish food energy levels as per University of Florida research. This can result in "fatty" fish and lower disease resistance.
The ONLY fish food currently on the market that follows this research is the before mentioned AAP Custom Premium Fish Food Crumbles

Where to purchase:
AAP Spirulina 20 Premium Fish Food Flake
AAPs Custom Premium Omnivore Diet by Clay Neighbor's

MOLLY DISEASE (Livebearer Disease/ Shimmies)

With this "disease", The Molly Fish stay in one place and wiggle, rock, wag and/or "shimmy" (hence the term "Shimmies").

Molly Disease generally is not technically a disease at all, rather a condition/syndrome brought on generally by poor water conditions; electrolytes in particular.
Often this is missed by many aquarium keepers who lack two important test kits; the KH & even more important GH Test kits (either liquid or test strips). So please do not rely on only a Master Test Kit if this is all you have.

As well, secondary infections may accompany this condition or parasitic protozoan infections such as Fungus/Saprolegnia or Velvet may also mimic or even be present along with Shimmies/Molly Disease, so treating with products such as AAP Super Fungus Plus or AAP Super Velvet Plus might be advised.
Reference: FRESHWATER VELVET - (Piscinoodinium pillulare) & COSTIA (Ichtyobodo Necatrix)

The video below is a good illustration of a Molly with "Shimmies"

Molly Fish with Shimmies, Shimmy

Treatment is generally easy assuming the condition is not too progressed.

Improving water chemistry as as per the "Aquarium Chemistry" article referenced earlier in this article is the first step and a MUST READ for more complete information on this important subject!
Although salt is not essential to most Mollies despite claims to the contrary, the addition of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons to 1 teaspoon per gallon of Aquarium Salt generally aids in Molly Disease initially (sometimes 2 teaspoons per gallon is needed, assuming other tank mates can tolerate this, of which Guppies should do fine with this level of salt).

Further Reference: The Use of Salt, Sodium Chloride in Aquariums

Addressing positive mineral ions and buffering is the next step, especially for long term and prevention (salt is not always needed long term).
AAP Wonder Shells are probably the simplest solution to the positive mineral ion issue (cations/electrolytes), but there are other methods as well including combining Wonder Shells with "AAP Super Fungus Plus".
The Medicated AAP Wonder Shell may be needed initially along with "AAP Triple Sulfa" or maybe "Spectrogram Wide Spectrum Anti Bacterial" if secondary infections are present.

The use of Buffers is the next step, although buffering is not as essential as the mineral cation issue for Molly Disease correcting this "Molly Disease (Shimmies).
SeaChem's Malawi Buffer can correct KH problems and even help with GH and short term positive mineral ion problems as well.

Before going into the section about using medications, it is important to know all the steps as often treatment is much more than dumping medication into an aquarium.
Please read this article before ANY aquarium treatment regimen:
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Finally, sometimes a Fungus or Velvet treatment is helpful or even necessary.

A simple start would be Copper Sulfate as found in SeaChem Cupramine or "AAP Super Fungus Plus" (better as "Super Fungus Plus" contain Sulfa blends and more which is excellent for Molly Disease).
Medicated Wonder Shells also contain some copper as well as other ingredients helpful for Velvet and other related diseases to Shimmies/Molly Disease.
These medicated mineral blocks are probably the best over all treatment for Molly disease (as well as the addition of salt and buffers), as the Medicated Wonder Shell corrects most mineral electrolyte issues PLUS treats many related disease issues to this condition.

As earlier noted, AAP Triple Sulfa (or AAP Spectrogram (more wide spectrum) may also be helpful in tank for healing of the fish epidermis that sometimes is damaged during certain cases of Molly disease.

One more treatment that may help is a Medicated Fish Bath.
This 30 minute procedure utilizing salt (I suggest 2 teaspoons per gallon or even slightly more for Molly Disease), along with Methylene blue, and possibly an antibiotic (I would suggest Triple Sulfa at double tank dose).
This bath should be done twice per day for 30 minutes, tank water should be used for the bath then disposed of after each bath. Generally 4-7 days is sufficient.

Further References:
*Fish Baths; Aquarium Answers
*Aquarium Medications Part 3; Copper Sulfate
*Freshwater Velvet Disease; Aquarium Answers

Where to purchase:
*Medicated Wonder Shell; Molly Disease Treatment
*AAP Super Velvet Plus
*AAP Super Fungus Plus
*AAP Spectrogram
*AAP/SeaChem Cupramine Copper Treatment
*API Triple Sulfa Fish Treatment
*AAP MethyBlu; Premium Methylene Blue Fish Treatment

SUMMARY:

Mollies can be interesting and colorful fish for your freshwater aquariums.
Usually these are hardy fish except when the water conditions they require are not present, especially mineralization and to a lesser degree salt.

Mollies can do well in a community tank with other fish provided the right water parameters are present.
I do however caution adding Sailfin mollies to aquariums less than 20 gallons (75 liters). Smaller molly types such as black, balloon, gold-dust, etc., will do OK in 10 gallon aquariums. Keep in mind that a poorly maintained aquarium of ANY size cannot hold as large or as many fish.

Also note that mollies (as with all livebearers) can be prolific breeders and unless you are prepared for their offspring, it is best to have only male mollies (single females can still to store unused sperm from the male fish in her body for several months through a process called "superfetation").

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites/Videos

Molly Care; Fish Profile

* “Wet Web Media; The truth about mollies"

AAP Spectrogram; Synergistic Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone

A Healthy Aquarium, Disease Prevention
This article includes water chemistry as discussed here, as well this article includes many other important aspects of fish keeping that affect fish health.

UV Sterilization; Importance of UV Sterilizer use for Disease Prevention

UV-C Replacement Bulbs Page 1
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, for aquarium or pond

SeaWeed Salad

An excellent food source for Molly Fish

Aquarium Lighting, Complete Information

Decorative Coral
Aquarium Decorations such as:
*Plastic Aquarium Plants
*Aquarium Driftwood