Archival Clothing

Shopping from MacRostie Leathers

2009-11-11T09:20:00.001-08:00

By Tom Bonamici

Macrostie product literature

LL's MacRostie Oxford

Honestly, the story of shoemaking in the upper Midwest would probably be best dealt with in a Steven Sondheim musical (à la Assassins), given the number of companies that have come and gone, the takeovers, the outrage.

Mr. Sondheim being do doubt occupied, I’ll just describe one of the minor players of the arena. Macrostie Leathers of Spring Lake, MN is the descendant of the famous Gokey Company, the first shoe company to put a hard sole on a moccasin. Elaine and Lyle Macrosite comprise the whole of the firm, and thanks to Lyle’s apprenticeship at Gokey, they can make some of the finest shoes in the States.

Lyle

Elaine

MacRostie Hard-Soled Moccasin

Highland Handmade Boots

While I don’t own a pair of Macrostie shoes, I do have a pair of original Gokey Sauvage Hikers. I bought them at a yard sale for $5, and they fit perfectly from day one.

Tom's original Gokey Sauvage Hikers

Orvis makes a version of this shoe, but if you have the time and money to spare, why not order a pair from Elaine and Lyle?

MacRostie Town and Country Shoe

Since I’ve got a pair already, I’d be tempted to order the Mountain Climber, which resembles my favorite boot from WC Russell, identically named.

MacRostie Mountain Climber

If you’re as swoony over Macrostie Leather’s products as we are, order soon.

LL's notes: I own a pair of the Lace-up Oxfords and Hard-Soled Moccasins. After years of wear, both pairs are ready for the resoling and refurbishing services offered by MacRostie.

Although I found MacRostie on the internet (searching for old Gokeys), my relationship with the company feels very old timey. I look forward to sending my shoes off to MacRostie just to revive my correspondence with Elaine who updates me on the state of handmade bootmaking in the US.

I've emailed Elaine about a possible future order for a pair of custom boots 8" lace-up boots similar to the Highland Lace-up.

Elaine has cautioned that I place my order sooner rather than later since the MacRostie duo is contemplating retirement (handmade shoe and bootmaking is hard on the hands and body).

If you like Russell moccasins but want to support a smaller, top quality, two person shop, give Elaine a call and start working on your foot tracings.

Some examples of some additional MacRostie special order boots:

Highland Handmade Special Order

Bunny Stomper Boots

London Puddle Stompers

MacRostie shoe and boot photos courtesy MacRostie Leathers website.

Please send me links to photographs of your own MacRostie custom shoes or boots.

Danner Factory Store Revisited

2009-11-08T22:33:00.001-08:00

Danner Mtn Lites (Japan model on left, stock US model on right)

DJ Dakatons in orchid and green

1970s era Danner refurb (nfs)

Aspirational footwear via Ku:nel magazine

On Sunday, to cap off a long day at Ikea, we visited the Danner Factory Store in Portland, Oregon. A Restless Transplant and I have already reported on the DFS. In essence, if you show up at the right time, you'll find factory seconds from the Japan-only Danner Japan ("DJ") collection mixed in with standard issue military, law enforcement and fire jumper boots.

We intended to spend only a few minutes looking, but for once there were boots in our sizes. The store closed and we lingered, trying to decide between the various models. One of us is now the proud owner of a pair of Horween chromexel DJ Mountain LT.

I may be returning to the Danner store next weekend (11/14). So, if you're dead certain of your Danner size, and fall in the available size range (Women's 5-6.5, and some larger sizes; Men's 6-10, 12-15), I may be able to help connect you with a pair of these amazing boots. Email me and we can talk.

In turn, if you stop by the store, keep an eye out for men's size 6 (euro 39) DJ Mountain Lights in this colorway. I'm also stalking these styles (yet to been seen at the DFS).

Archival Fieldtrip: Horween Leather Co.

2009-11-02T20:07:00.000-08:00

Horween tour photos by Rick Gersbach

Last week, Rick, Sara and I visited the Horween Leather Co. in Chicago, Illinois. Nick Horween directed our tour of the tannery, one of the oldest in the US. Horween produces highest quality leathers that are used for Alden shoes, NFL footballs, Russell and Quoddy moccasins, Altadena Works packs, Makr leather wallets and more.

The Horween factory consists of five floors and we were intent on seeing everything. Nick warned us that our eyes might glaze over. He might also have cautioned us about intense odors, high heat, puddles underfoot, sharp hooks overhead and proximity to machinery, ancient and modern. The many-stepped tanning process takes six months, so we weren't able to follow one hide from raw to finish state. We watched as cow and horse hides were stripped of hair, shaved of flesh, dyed, cut out, wrung, squeegeed, stacked, left to rest, hung up, impregnated with wax, split, dried, stamped, measured, and polished (not in that order).

Fortunately for readers wishing to better visualize the complexities of the tanning process, friend and photographer Rick Gersbach provided documentary evidence of our tour. A full set of Rick's Horween photographs can be viewed via his flickr site here.

At the end of the tour, Nick, our charming and well informed host, showed us some belts, shoes and wallets made from Horween leathers. While I've always admired shell cordovan leather from afar, I'm now fundraising for a Highland brand belt and a custom pair of Alden Style 500 boots in whiskey or cigar shell cordovan. But for now, I'll console myself with the chromexcel hide I purchased from Horween for future projects.

Dreaming of Alden Surgical boots in whiskey shell cordovan

For more stories and reports about the Horween Leather Co., read Nick's own official Horween blog.

Archival Fieldtrip: PDX October 2009

2009-10-31T16:25:00.000-07:00

A few belated notes from a beginning-of-the-month (October) fieldtrip to Portland by way of the Oregon Randonneurs Bikenfest 200k (not pictured).

Sugar Cane Denim (not pictured) & Engineered Garments @ Blake

The shock of a properly fitting, size small, Filson Outfitter jacket

Custom tweed jacket @ Duchess

Billykirk leather tote @ Winn Perry

Scandanavian breakfast at Broder

Shoe shopping from Bicycling, Circa 1980

2009-10-29T21:41:00.000-07:00

A guest post by Archival Associate, Tom B.

Like Lesli, I pine for the ability to mail order from the past – just a single Montgomery Ward’s catalog would be acceptable. But I’m experiencing similar saudade as I leaf through Bicycling magazines from the early 1980s. The articles are fine, but it’s the advertisements that slay me. Imagine being able to buy a new Suntour Superbe gruppo! How about all those Avocet imports? Their re-branded Ofmega hubs and cranks are particularly tantalizing. And, even though I ride with clipless pedals, it’s the shoes in Bicycling that really make me wish that the advertised phone numbers would still link me to a pair of Bata Bikers for $14.95.

Shopping from 1976: Brady Bags

2009-10-27T20:10:00.000-07:00

Knowing my obsession with the history of British fishing bags, Brady Brothers was kind enough to loan me this original brochure from 1976. I'm told that when Brady was operating from Halesowen, England, they kept very few original advertisements or print catalogues. Brady issued a small brochure type catalogue every 10 or 15 years since nothing in the product line ever changed. At the time, British fishing and game bags were quite popular and there was usually a 2 year waiting list for a bag like the leather Brady cartridge bag. The small brochure from 1976 is the only one known to exist within the company.

I'd love to see the shopping list current readers would draw up from this catalogue. I own a few bags from this catalogue including the diminuitive Norfolk and the staggering Scot (webbing wider than my shoulder blade). Per Brady's own notes, most of the items pictured in this catalogue are still available today (making the catalogue a bit of a peeking-into-the-past let down). I'm most curious about the items found on the "Miscellaneous" page of the brochure--namely the ferret bag, bridle leather dog collar and rabbit purse nets. I'm wondering if these items should be considered as key accessories in a future heritage clothing collection.

Shopping from 1921: Équipages Français

2009-10-21T12:56:00.000-07:00

Manufacture Francaise d'Armes & Cycles courtesy Pillpatt (agence Eureka)

Thanks to one of my favorite Archival finders, Robin E., who pointed me to this flickr set featuring pages from Manufacture Francaise, a French firearms and clothing catalog from 1921. Per an auction note for a related item: "Manufacture Francaise produced an annual catalogue with over 700 pages and thousands of images of various products for sale. The catalogue provides a great deal of information of every kind needful to Sportsmen, Cyclists, Anglers, Tourists, etc."

Archival Knitwear: Devold of Norway

2009-10-15T23:04:00.000-07:00

Steamer Crew

A Fisherman at home

Devold Blue Marine sweater w/zip

Devold Blue Marine sweater w/crew neck

Devold Nansen sweater w/high neck

Devold Islender Sweater

I love the look of SNS Herning knitwear, but if you need economical Scandinavian woolens for your ice-cap expedition, try Devold of Norway.

I've been using Devold Aquaduct baselayers for cycling for years. In colder conditions, and in the rain, I wear mattress layers of Devold plus a light wind vest. I'd rather get damp than overheat in a fully sleeved shell. Aquaduct knits can also be worn off the bike as a spread-collar type top layer in the style of Alexander of Fanny and Alexander (Bergman 1982).

For arctic conditions, I recommend one of Devold's Blue Marine (Blaatroie) sweaters. Worn by North Sea fisherman in some past era, blue marine sweaters are knit from pure new wool using tightly knit worsted yarns. The sweaters are super durable (non-pilling) and work well for wear under waxed cotton jackets or vests. What I like best about the Blue Marine series is that they retain their original historical styling save for the patriotic addition of a Norwegian flag patches. That being said, here's an example of a Devold nautical model I would not purchase from the past:

Devold Blue Marine w/zip and pockets

While I prefer shopping from the 19th century, Devold is offering a few "modern" tech woolens I might try. I'm a little unsure about the overarching look of the "Optimum" hoodie but I do like its use of a knit grid pattern and thumb loop holes. The optimum might make a nice addition to my post-apocalyptic layering system:

Optimum Hoodie

Archival Auction: 1882 Poirier Packsack

2009-10-11T18:06:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Archival Clothing reader Murat for directing me to this current ebay auction for an 1882 Duluth Poirier packsack. According to the seller, the three stitches on the front flap of the pack may indicate that the pack is a rare, original Duluth prototype (thus justifying the $100k Buy It Now option). The seller also directed me to a Duluth Pack youtube video featuring a canoe pack similar to the one up for auction. Side note: I never thought to search youtube for archival footage of historical canoe packs.

1882 Duluth Poirier Packsack (via this ebay auction)

Shopping from Tintin: Hiking Garb

2009-10-09T08:11:00.000-07:00

Ed. note: guest post by Archival Associate and Tintin reader, Tom B.

There's endless discussion on the genius of Tintin's wardrobe. But let's broaden the search. Tintin In Tibet offers some really terrific examples of hiking clothing - tennis sweaters, anoraks, plus fours, socks folded over boots. While I continue to use gaiters to keep snow out, I swear by my knickers for hiking and cross-country skiing - both my Woolrich wool and my Ibex soft shell knickers see a great deal of use during the winter. Now, has anyone found an anorak that could dodouble-duty for those seen in Tintin In Tibet?

Archival News: Filson Seconds Sale 2009

2009-10-06T16:45:00.000-07:00

Although the Filson Cruising shirts and coats from 1921 have sold out, you can still shop for good quality Filson items at the 2009 Seconds Sale.

Here's what I know:

The public sale is open from 9:00 AM - 3:00PM Sunday October 25th. The sale will be held at Filson's 3851 1st Ave S Seattle WA, 98134 address.

I've heard from Seconds Sale veterans that the event requires an early a.m. arrival and full combat readiness. Since I'll be in Chicago on that day, I'll be shopping for my own future Filson seconds via ebay where most of the items eventually migrate (look for the black slash across your garment tag).

If you do go, post photos and reports (I've yet to see a live action view of this event).

Good sport and good luck!

In the end, I think I prefer refab Filson to factory seconds.

Shopping from David Mamet: Hunting Suits

2009-10-01T13:02:00.000-07:00

Apparently, I missed the news that filmmaker David Mamet started his own line of vintage inspired, outdoor clothing in 1999 under the Joseph Morse Company label. Here's what I learned from the Cambridge Companion to David Mamet:

Perhaps Mamet should have waited a decade to launch his clothing brand. Per earlier blog posts, I remain fascinated by how well stocked his films are with newly popular heritage brands like Barbour, Woolrich and Filson. In Heist, a film I have not seen since 2001, Gene Hackman wordlessly walks through the opening scene of the film in an all-waxed cotton hunting ensemble. Although I'm unsure of the make of the field jacket (it looked Filson until I saw the pocketing), I'm pretty sure Hackman's bag is a J.W. Hulme Co. English field bag (or a rebadged version offered by Orvis). Another blogger will have to document the make and model of Hackman's shotgun and field notebook.

While Mamet's own brand of nostalgia may have failed, I disagree that the past and its historical styles cannot be repeated/improved upon/multiplied into the future. Perhaps Mamet was meant to offer his items exclusively through the visual catalog of his films rather than by way of flimsy retail outpots like Banana Republic (a point of sale for his original line). For the pricepoint, and for sizing options, I prefer shopping directly from Mamet's movies themselves (coming up next: Winslow Boy).

I read that the motto of Mamet's clothing line was Quiet in the Woods. This must have been the overarching direction for Hackman's hunting ensemble in the opening scene of Heist:

Heist (Mamet 2001)

A hypothetical look at Hackman's ensemble by way of a vintage print catalogue from another age:

J.W. Hulme English Field Shooting Bag

Archival Addendums:

Ibex Loden vest

Slumming: Barbour quilted vest

Shopping from the Polar ice-cap

2009-09-28T23:21:00.001-07:00

Tenting

Expedition tweeds

Canvas coveralls

Anoraks

Union suits

The look

Archival addendum:

Shopping from 1907: Abercrombie and Fitch

2009-09-24T16:09:00.001-07:00

Shopping from the Dartmouth Outing Club

2009-09-22T21:23:00.001-07:00

Ed. note: Friend and Archival Clothing contributor Tom B. returns from summer break with a brief visual blurb on the classic style of his alma mater's historic outing club.

During my time in college, I was very active in the Dartmouth Outing
Club, the oldest collegiate outing club in the country. It's a
terrific organization, running freshman orientation trips, maintaining
trails, and hosting scores of hikes, bikes, paddles, and climbs every
term. However, upon doing some digging in the club reports from years
past, I believe that sartorial standards have slipped dramatically.

A week ago, Tom field tested this lightweight, all cotton hiking ensemble (minus kerchief) inspired by the Dartmouth Outing club photo archives:

Canoe pack review

2009-09-18T17:25:00.001-07:00

Vintage Duluth packs

I don't know the folks in these catalog-quality shots of Duluth canoe packs in action (more shots of Duluth packs and satchels courtesy this flickr photostream). But I love how they make real the prehistoric size of a true-to-life canoe pack. My main encounter with this style of pack (waxed or dry finish) is by way of catalog and web images that reduce everything to thumbnail scale. I contemplate buying a traditional canoe pack just for the visual punchline of wearing around a bag as big as me (tumpline in place).

Duluth Pack photos (courtesy this flickr photostream)

Speaking of canoe packs, Frost River (a former Duluth pack rival/offshoot) seems to have returned from the ashes. This week, ebay featured some deadstock items for sale by a new Frost River management group. I wanted to win this bag but die hard Frost River fans drove the auction price beyond my alpine rucksack pricepoint. For interested parties, the old FR website--with its old timey product illustrations--is back online at this new url. I'm archiving some sample illustrations in case the site disappears from view again.

Frost River Utility Pack

Frost River Woodsman Pack

Frost River Old No. 7 Pack

From Little Golden Book of Camping (courtesy thbonamici)

A & F Co. 1908 Advertisement

Tump line use illustrated

1942 updates

Ah, Wilderness!

2009-09-13T20:14:00.001-07:00

Limits of adhesion

Climbing costume for women

Climbing costume for gents

Some things to carry and how to carry them

Shopping from 1999: David Morgan Catalog

2009-09-12T23:56:00.000-07:00

Same plain brown cover in 2009

No longer available: Dale walking trousers

Early source for Bills Khakis

Hickory shirts and logger buttons

Brilliant belt selection

Filson (i.d. the discontinued items)

Akurbra hats (someone should wear them)

No longer available: Nova Scotia woolens

David Morgan is one of the few remaining mail order companies that still sends out a print catalog. As far as I can tell, the catalog has not changed in appearance since I first started receiving copies in the early 90s (requested during my first search for a filson wool cruiser). While a David Morgan 1999 catalog may look like a 2009 catalog (same typeface, same layout, same grayscale photography, same brown cover) much has changed in the last ten years. The Bosca coin purse is now made in China and costs 43.00 (it used to be a 24.00 staple). Nova Scotia textiles and Alpendale are now out of business. Filson no longer offers Oregon-made wool whipcord or moleskin trousers and some of the original Filson styles have disappeared.

Nevertheless, the catalog continues to offer many worthy archival garments and accessories.

Here are three of my favorite items from the 2009 catalog:

Pecard Leather Dressing

Bosca leather coin purse

Braided cinch belt

Addendum: check out the David Morgan sale section which frequently features discontinued items and sale priced Filson (plus oddball sizes of Bills Khakis and hardship woolens).

Archival Office Supplies: Rhodia Notebooks

2009-09-09T23:04:00.001-07:00

Rhodia N° 16

Ed. Note: Friend Lynn M. and I love French-made Rhodia notebooks (in 1997, Rhodia was acquired by my other favorite stationary company, Clairefontaine). I maintain a large personal archive of used/unused Rhodia notebooks in oddball sizes. My personal favorite is Rhodia N° 8, a narrow, oblong pad with gridded paper. In this Archival Clothing guest post, Lynn documents her current preference for Rhodia N° 16. To follow along, or pick your own favorite, click this link to view the full Rhodia line (but strike the metallic collection from memory).

A Notebook Fit for the Archive

My daily notebook companion is a Rhodia. My current obsession is a black covered N° 16 lined pad.

Undersized at 6" x 8 1/4" it fits perfectly inside any of my daily errand bags.

The top stapled cover easily folds out of my way when I want unfettered notetaking.

I rely on my Rhodia for recording things I need from the store, what I should accomplish today and any observations made in transit.

The perforated tear sheets are handy when I'm the only one with a notebook, perfect when my daughter begs for a sheet of drawing paper.

I've been using Rhodia notebooks for more than a decade, the smaller ones for travel and disposable jots, the more substantive wire bound books to manage projects at work. I've even lately become a fan of the Rhodia weekly planner.

The design of Rhodia notebooks hasn't changed since 1932 and they are made with the original quality standards. The notebooks are still manufactured in France, in the Alsace region, an area that I have actually visited. I am charmed by the idea that I have a mental image of countryside where they are produced.

Sure, there are other notebooks worth considering, but none are as distinctive as these orange and black beauties. Rhodia notebooks are one of the constants in my life, as comforting as coffee with an old friend.

Rhodia notebooks can be easily obtained online, but check first with your local stationary shop.

I'm lucky that in Boulder, McGuckins Hardware, Two Hands Paperie and Vickerey always have Rhodia notebooks in stock.

Archival addendum:

Satchel sized Rhodia N° 8

Archival checklist

Linden wood and lacquered Rhodia pencil

A notebook for every size bag

Campward Ho!

2009-09-09T22:26:00.001-07:00

Campward Ho! sponsors:

Archival Review: Filson totes

2009-09-07T07:58:00.000-07:00

Filson wool totes

Tin cloth tote (new tan webbing)

On Sunday, Sara and I did a quick spot check on the new totes at the Filson flagship store in Portland, Oregon. It's a little early in the season for wool, but apparently the new versions are selling--even the crazy electric blue/black plaid tote (a version not currently shown on the Filson site). Though I love the eccentric look of this tote, and robust blanket weight wool, it doesn't quite stand up on its own and I question its practical use value. Since I own more totes than I'll ever wear out, I suppose this version could be my indoor, workplace, hallway or elevator tote. Send along your own suggestions for the proposed function of a wool rather than waxed bodied bag (for snowdrift climates, I imagine?).

After the classic tin cloth tote w/green webbing disappeared from the Filson website in July, I was concerned that this practical, affordable, Seattle-made bag had been discontinued. Several friends and I use this bag on a daily basis, and after a year of wear, the bag still looks great (though mine is slightly frayed at wear points on the webbing). Although I love the classic twill Filson tote, the tin cloth version, with taffeta lining, really forgives sloppy use as a grocery bag or bag-within-a-bag commuter. To my relief, Filson reintroduced an unchanged version with khaki webbing. Though I prefer the graphic contrast of the green webbing against the tin cloth fabric, I'm happy to see this basic model back in the Filson line-up.

On the subject of totes, I want to campaign for Gilles Berthoud, French bagmaker, to produce a tote bag that combines the fabric and leather trim of his bicycle panniers w/the carrying capacity, basic structure, of a Filson tin cloth tote:

Gilles Berthoud panniers

Archival Camp

2009-08-20T19:12:00.001-07:00

Archival Vacation

2009-08-14T17:41:00.000-07:00

Back in September

Archival Footwear: Reynolds Touring Shoes

2009-08-12T22:26:00.001-07:00

Reynolds is one of those rare, out-of-the-past companies still producing traditional leather cycling shoes in Northampton, England (home of Crockett and Jones). Reynolds sells only one shoe model called Innovations. Though Reynolds describe Innovations as a "new model" it still looks like something from the pages of a 1930s catalog (like this shoe , for instance). Per catalog copy, Innovations features "full grain leather, a double sole, redesigned side pedal patch, full leather padded tongue and raised and padded top line to give ankle support."

I would have ordered my own pair of Reynolds years ago if not for enigmatic-to-me UK shoe sizing charts.

A cautionary tale: the shoes pictured in this post were ordered by a gent who mis-calculated his own UK/Reynolds shoe size. If you'd like your own pair of Reynolds touring shoes, wear a men's size 11.5 and wish to bypass UK shipping hassles, visit this flickr user for further info.

And here's another style of cycling shoe, the "Ball Bearing," awaiting resurrection from the archives ("a sample piece of leather will be mailed upon application"):

Archival Campout

2009-08-11T19:20:00.000-07:00

Camping in Queensland (State Library of Queensland)

Friend Rick G. sent me this link to Butler Bags, a US company manufacturing traditional style bedrolls and bags in marine grade waxed cotton. Per catalog copy: "sleeping bags are made for the serious, rugged outdoorsman who recognizes quality and know the value of comfort and convenience." All product descriptions should read this way.

Wishing I had a Butler bedroll for my trip back to my old summer camp, Camp Robbinswold, in two weeks. Instead, I'll be packing a mouldering down bag purchased from Eddie Bauer in the vintage days when EB was still a venerable, Northwest outfitter (w/a brick and mortar, Spokane, Washington storefront).

Let me know if you know of anyone who has actually tested out one of the Butler bags in a real world, outdoor location. I searched the Butler dealer list and found a retail outlet, Salem Tent and Awning, worthy of its own future archival fieldtrip.

Horseback Bedroll

All Season Sleeping Bag (marine canvas w/cotton flannel lining)

Heavy duty brass zipper

Sewn in end ropes

Cinch straps

Marine canvas carrying case

Just saw new link to this US made bag by Wiggy's on Rivendell Bicycle Works site (great source for highly curated camping and cycling supplies). According to the Riv blurb. Wiggy makes bags for the US military.