Via The Expeditioner

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The biggest difference between the Palermo store and the downtown CBC flagship is space; lot’s of it. The new CBC is set up like a traditional old-style Buenos Aires house. You walk in to a small open-air patio with a large first-floor dining area and service counter, as well as exterior stairs leading to an open-air 2nd floor terrace. To me, the terrace is the big selling point. It’s partly covered, with a fully functional bar and large wooden octagonal picnic tables. Though now it serves as a dining/drinking area, it certainly lends itself to the potential for large group parties, drink-ups, or even live music. The space is spectacular, and most importantly it’s quiet, which is rare in Buenos Aires.

The menu is pretty much the same as you’d find in the downtown store. It’s pretty simple: a) pick either tacos, a salad, or a burrito. b) pick your chips and drink combo. c) pick your fillings, sauces, and garnishes. At first glance the prices seem a little high, however if you look at the volume of food, as well as the diversity and quality of ingredients, you definitely get your money’s worth. Comparatively speaking it’s about the same price as Burger King combos, but with REAL food, and more importantly, beer. They are also pushing a new desert item on the menu, however, by the time you’ve finished one of their burrito combos, the thought of eating anything more is tough for even the hungriest guest.

Besides the food and space, another thing you immediately notice is the attention to detail and customer service. The place is sparkling clean, the service is fast, and if there’s any problem with your order, it’s fixed without even a second glance. There’s also a very personal feel to how the staff interacts with their clientele. If you’ve eaten there, chances are you met one of the owners and didn’t even realize it. One of them is always on site, and they usually make it a point to introduce themselves, ask you about the food, shake your hand, or even sit down with you for a beer.

This place is definitely worth checking out, even if you’re just in town for a few days. It’s definitely a must-see for both locals and foreigners. My favorite CBC combo is the Tijuanamama with guacamole nachos and a Corona ($31 Pesos Arg.).

The CBC Palermo is located at Godoy Cruz 1781, at the corner of Honduras. For more info, check out their website at www.californiaburritoco.com/

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The word “Menesunda” comes from the tango slang meaning fusion, mix or even disorder.

Recently, a new surge of energy has been injected into La Menesunda by the new owners, an enthusiastic couple, Damián and Celina.

The hostel is bright and colorful with luscious green plants and candles dotted around along with comfortable seating. There is a mixture of spacious private rooms and dormitories. A four person and 2 six person dorms are available and some private rooms are en-suite. The shared bathrooms are particularly nice as they are roomy and well maintained. Each is fitted with a toilet, shower and sink and offers complete privacy to the individual. One is equipped with a hairdryer.
Dorm rooms start at AR$37 and private rooms at AR$85. Generous discounts are given to long term residents, students and guests attending conferences.

There is also a large fully equipped kitchen with two fridges and a freezer to store your food along with a microwave. Soft drinks, wine and beer are also sold on site.

Breakfast is included in the price of your stay and is served from 8 am to 11am. It includes coffee, a variety of tea, bread rolls, a mixture of jam and the obligatory dulce de leche. At the weekend there is also a delicious selection of facturas- Argentine pastries.

La Menesunda´s guests are a mixture of long term residents, backpackers, romantic couples and occasional families. It is not uncommon for guests to take it upon themselves to share their national dishes by cooking for each other. You will discover that language is no barrier to making friends and it is these moments that will make your stay memorable.

Formerly a conventillo in the 1920s, a specific type of housing where immigrants from different cultures cohabited, the building typically has a large central courtyard. This area still continues to be used as a communal space today, where mate is shared and guests gather round to listen to the latest resident guitar player. In true Argentine style, there is also a barbeque on the first floor to cook those delicious asados.

La Menesunda is a sociable hostel but without the noise and sleepless nights. It is tranquilo with a comfortable living room for chilling and a good sized satellite TV and DVD player. There is also a good selection of international films available to watch free of charge.

Peace and quiet is enforced by the friendly receptionist on duty from midnight onwards on weekdays and 2 am at the weekend. The reception is 24 hours. The hostel´s staff are all multi-lingual with at least a knowledge of English and Portugese. As well as being helpful they are also very security conscious. Watch out, La Menesunda is indeed a hostel with buena onda and once you check in you may never want to leave!

Facilities

Disabled access
Computer with internet, wi-fi
Laundry AR$10 per bag
Room Cleaning Service
Currency Exchange
Transfers
Luggage Storage (Free of Charge)
Tour Bookings

Useful Transport Links

Subte E: 15 minutes to the centre and San telmo
Bus 126: 20 minutes to San Telmo
Bus 53: 45 minutes to El Caminito, La Boca
Bus 86: to La Boca and Ezeiza Internacional Airport
Subte Combination E and D: Palermo and Belgrano
Subte Combination E and C: Retiro (Buenos Aires bus and train terminal)
Bus 128: Palermo
Bus 160: Palermo

LA Menesunda Hostel
742 Boedo- Buenos Aires

54 11 49570946
www.lamenesundahostel.com.ar

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Factura is not only the Spanish word for “bill” it is also the generic name given to a delicious collection of Argentinean sweet pastries. Some of these facturas originate from Europe. Facturas come in different shapes and with different fillings. They are generally crammed or coated with either crema pastelera, dulce de leche or membrillo and sprinkled with either brown sugar, white sugar or icing sugar. Each factura has its own name.

Strict vegetarians beware as some facturas are made with animal fat!

Facturas are generally eaten for breakfast or as an afternoon snack in la merienda which is between 17:00 and 20:00 but are not considered as a dessert. They are commonly bought in large quantities to share at the office or with friends over mate.

Facturas are ubiquitous, they can be found on every street corner enticing passers-by through the vitrine of a panaderia, a bakery. They can also be bought in the supermarket and are sometimes found in street markets. Facturas are of course served in cafes and restaurants.

Watch out! One soon discovers that quality and value for money can vary significantly from bakery to bakery. Take-away prices range from AR$0,90 to $AR1,50. The average price of a factura is AR$1.

A highly recommendable bakery in Buenos Aires is Flores Porteñas. The facturas are a good size, very tasty and reasonably priced. There is also an indoor and outdoor seating area. It is a sophisticated looking bakery located in the neighborhood of Boedo, close to the centre.

Flores Porteñas
Boedo 708
4931-3517
Boedo Subte Linea E

Three Main Facturas Fillings

Crema Pastelera

A pale yellow, lightly vanilla flavoured cream.

Dulce de Leche

Made from caramalised milk it is very sweet, light brown in colour and has a creamy sticky consistency. It is much loved by Argentines and is found in many desserts.

Dulce de Membrillo

This is a red jam that is made from the fruit Quince. It is very sweet.

Factura Names

Each factura has its own name which either refers to its ingredients, shape or is a provocative term directed at the army, church or police. The latter is said to have come about as a result of the first baker´s strike in the country in 1888. Here are just a few of these interesting names:

	MedialunaMedialuna is the most common factura. There are two types- Medialuna de Manteca and Medialuna de Grasa. Medialuna literally translates as half-moon. Medialuna de Manteca is made from butter(manteca) and looks like a French croissant but is smaller and sweeter as it is covered in a sugary syrup. Medialuna de Grasa is made from animal fat and is narrower in shape. It is probably the only savoury factura. Medialunas are at their most delicious when served warm.
	Con Membrillo A piece of pastry usually oblong shaped and coated with the red jam mebrillo. Sometimes it is mixed with crema pastelera.
	Palmerita A large, flat, circular, crusty piece of pastry coated in sugar.
	Rosquita A deep fried doughnut ring sprinkled with white sugar.
	Tortita Negra It’s name literally means little black cake. It is a bun coated in dark brown sugar.
	Medialuna Rellena A Medialuna filled with dulce de leche and topped with icing sugar.
	Con Crema Pastelera A piece of pastry usually oblong shaped and coated with crema pastelera. Can be found with dark chocolate drizzled over the top. On occasion it is mixed with membrillo.
	Scone A small bun filled with colourful dried fruit.
	Con Membrillo A piece of pastry usually oblong shaped and coated with the red jam mebrillo. Sometimes it is mixed with crema pastelera.
	Churro Churros are deep fried and cylindrical in shape. They can either be coated in chocolate or plain and can be filled with dulce de leche or left hollow.
	Cañoncito Cañoncito means little cannon. It is a short, cylindrical pastry filled with dulce de leche and dusted with icing sugar.

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La Puerta Roja is recognized only by its red door, as it is not signposted. It is reminiscent of  a sixth form college common room with poor lighting, shabby walls, worn leather seating and a pool table. Yet still it is a comfortable and cool place to hang out.
It offers a large range of spirits and a small selection of wine and beers. Pizzas and sandwiches are also served. Despite its inconspicuousness it attracts a mixture of locals and travelers. Large crowds from hostels come regularly as part of  “the buenos aires pub crawl” to invade the joint.

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Before the collapse Buenos Aires was one of the most expensive cities in the world, but today you can take a taxi across town or eat a fantastic steak dinner for about U.S. $10. This is despite the high inflation rates that have plagued the country since 2001. The government claims a rate of 12%, and the actual rate is probably several percent higher. Nevertheless, Buenos Aires is still considered an excellent place to live, especially for expats, thanks to its high level of internal development and low cost of living.

Buenos Aires is especially attractive to residents who earn an income in Dollars, Euros or Pounds. Monthly food costs in Buenos Aires average around $130 U.S. Dollars and things like soap, garbage bags, shampoo, toothpaste and other necessities average $20. Transportation costs run about $26 and a cell phone or a fixed line is about $12, not including long distance calls. Entertainment costs average around $265, which includes things like wine at $8 to $20 a bottle. Restaurants entrées are in the $5 to $20 range. A movie is around $5, and a decent apartment rents for $350. Electricity, Internet and cable costs average $70 per month. At the current rate of inflation, you can enjoy a comfortable life in Argentina for around U.S. $900 a month or less, depending on the city.

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Perfect for the winter season, a submarino is a cup of steamed milk traditionally served with a stick of dark chocolate. In some cafes white chocolate is also offered. On occasion the chocolate is already melting in the cup when it is served other times the pleasure of plunging the chocolate bar is all yours. A submarino is a special kind of hot chocolate!

Las Violetas

If you want to indulge yourself Las Violetas is the place to be. With magnificent stained glass windows, uniformed waiters and numerous fresh plants in hanging baskets this traditional Buenos Aires Café oozes style.

A submarino at Las Violetas is served with a masita (a miniature cake) and a small glass of carbonated water. The chocolate bar is presented separately to the steamed milk-remember it is not to be eaten but dunked. Note that the price of regular hot drinks rise slightly after 16:00 on Saturdays, Sundays and on public holidays.

An exciting menu of coffee and liquor combinations as well as champagne is also offered along with light bites.

There is also a mouth watering selection of cakes and sweets on display in the substantial confiterie section of the café. It is like a permanent Christmas.

There is ample seating but now and then you will still see a queue forming outside because of its popularity. A trip to Las Violetas is a definite treat.

Las Violetas
Av. Rivadavia 3899 (esq. Medrano)
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: 49587387/88

Opening Hours: Sunday-Thursday 6-1am
Friday and Saturday 24hrs

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Fernet con Coca is an Argentinian combo, typically 30% Fernet and 70% coke served with ice. It can also be drunk with soda water and is particularly popular in Cordoba and Buenos Aires, whereas in Italy it is drunk neat and does not enjoy the same success.

Fernet con Coca replaces the champagne at weddings and other celebratory events but is not only reserved for special occasions or the elite. In Argentina, it can always be Fernet 0`clock.

Although adored by Argentinians, when it comes to foreigners Fernet is like marmite (a British bread spread made of yeast) “you either love it or hate it”. This is due to its distinctly strong bitter medicinal flavour. It has been likened to Jagermeister.

Fernet is an unattractive dark  brown colour and is made from a mixture of numerous herbs and spices. It has a thickish consistency. However, its precise ingredients still remain the secret of the Fratelli Branca Distillery.

With a 45% alcohol content, if not taken with caution Fernet could lead to a potentially lethal hangover. In small doses it is believed to relieve digestive problems.

In supermarkets a bottle of Fernet-Branca is sold approximately for AR$30 but be warned there are many cheap imitations which do not compare in quality to Fernet-Branca and will leave you worse for wear, more than the real McCoy. Recommended alternative brands are Fernet Martini, Fernet Rama and Ferner Ramazotti. Note that when asking for a Fernet in a bar it usually refers to the Branca brand.

Fernet can be found in any bar or cafe. Why not steer away from the tourist haunts of San Telmo and Palermo and enjoy a refreshing glass of Fernet Con Coca in Cafe Margot? Located in the quiet neigbourhood of Boedo, close to San Telmo, Cafe Margot has a rustic decor with saucisson hanging from the ceiling and wooden seating. It is popular with the locals and there are regular art displays. A large variety of sandwiches are served along with other snacks and main meals. The smoking section is completely separate from the non smoking area so you do not need to fear for your lungs only your liver!

Cafe Margot
Avenida Boedo 857
Boedo

Opening Times: Daily from 7am to 2am

How to Get There: Subte Line E Boedo Station

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Grupo Clarin, through its Revista Ñ, presents every year a special exhibition of the works of one of the great and outstanding Argentine artists in the intermediate generation. The artist invited for the 2009 edition is Luis Wells.

Program Meeting Cultures: Japan
The program Meeting Cultures, especially created by Arteclásica in 2006, introduces in our market artists coming from different cultures, whose work is practically unknown in our latitudes. This is a unique project and a great opportunity to approach both different aesthetics and new symbolisms.
Just as in 2006 with the Arab world, in 2007 with the Post-Soviet world, in 2008 with Western Africa, mainly from the Republic of Nigeria, this year ARTECLASICA brings us the art of today’s Japan with a selection made by curator Yasuo Kitai, director of the Gallery Kitai from Tokyo. This program has the sponsorship of the Japanese Embassy in Argentina.

The auditorium of Arteclásica 2009 will host every day important conferences, round tables, talks, seminars and book presentations.

Dates and Opening times: July 17th to July 21st, 2009. 1 pm to 9 pm
Location: Pavilions 1 and 2, Centro Costa Salguero Convention Center. Av. Costanera and Salguero
Entry fee: Adults AR $ 20. Seniors and Students: AR $ 15.

More information: www.arteclasica.com.ar

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A licuado is a fruit shake.

It is a typical, non-alcoholic, Latin American beverage. This refreshing and nutritious drink is made by blending fruit and ice with either water or milk, the latter option being slightly more expensive. The most common flavors are banana, strawberry and peach. When ordering, it’s important to specify if you do not wish to have sugar added. Also, depending on the season, canned fruits may be used. Argentineans generally drink licuados at breakfast or in la merienda which is between 17:00 and 20:00 as a snack.

One can enjoy a delicious and generous serving of a licuado at El Taller in Palermo. Taller meaning studio, it indeed has an artsy vibe to it with a large poster of Julio Cortazar, the famous Argentine writer along with splashes of color on the walls and wooden chairs and tables. There is also an upstairs performance space. Licuados range from AR$11 to $17. Food is also served.

El Taller Bar

Serrano 1595
4831 5501
Sunday-Thursday 9am-2am
Friday and Saturday 9am to 5am
The night before a public holiday it remains open until 5am

Photos by Vanessa Hoese

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