ArmChair DIY

Printable Protractor For Your Home Made Jigs and Fixtures

2010-09-13T10:14:00.001-05:00

Free Printable Protractor

If your like me you make custom jigs and fixtures to make your work more accurate and faster. I have often wished I could add a protractor that I could use on some of my angle jigs. I drew up this generic protractor for you to use too. It is a standard 180 degrees with major tic marks at 5 degree increments, minor tic marks at one degree increments as well as half degree tic marks. You can print it, cut it out and use spray adhesive to mount it on your jig. A couple coats of clear polyurethane over it will help protect it.
Get out of your chair, and into the shop and build that jig! Send us a photo and show us how you used it.
Download PDF Here

Free Plans: Homemade Biesemeyer Style T-Square Table Saw Fence

2010-09-13T09:47:00.001-05:00

A Nice Homemade T-Square Table Saw Fence

You need a new table saw fence but have more time than money. Well We have just what you are looking for. Detailed plans instructions, photos and CAD drawings showing you how to build your own Biesemeyer T-Square style saw fence.
A poorly functioning table saw fence can make even the best saw worthless. A few nights in the shop, a little bit of steel and a twelve pack should be all the supplies you need to complete your new homemade table saw fence.
The fence in the photo is homemade. Nice looking isn't it.

A few readers have had problems downloading from the frame below, so here is another download option: PDF Plans For Homemade T-Square Table Saw Fence

Keep us updated on your progress as you build yours and show us your homemade table saw fence when you finish it.

A BBQ Grill You Can Build Yourself

2010-09-13T09:31:00.001-05:00

Photo Via: Lincoln Electric

Here is a fantastic project from Lincoln Electric you can build yourself. With a little time and some scrounging around you should be able to weld up this very cool Home made grill dirt cheap compared to buying one. With a welder and a few basic tools you could be standing beside this beauty after a good weekend of quality shop time. A welder, a thick steak and maybe a cocktail too, come on who doesn't love that combination?

Thanks To Lincoln Electric for providing these great free grill plans

Tell us about your homemade grill or any other shop projects, we would love to see some photos too! Thanks to Lincoln Electric for providing these great shop built grill plans. Don't forget to follow them on Twitter.

Cheap Home Made Router Lift

2010-09-10T08:59:00.003-05:00

Vetuses Ultra Cheap Homemade Router Lift

Around the ArmChairDIY shop we love home made, modified, hacked, or better than new tools. Even better is if we can do it cheap.

Vetus over at Instructables posted his homemade ultra cheap router lift. It's very similar to the one I fabricated for my Porter Cable plunge router. You can see my router post Right here. The big difference is mine required more machining welding and fabrication. Vetus did a great job of simplifying the process.

Ultra-cheap router lift - More DIY How To Projects

Look at them both and see if you can adapt it to your router. We all would like to see or hear about your homemade router lift.

The Best Homemade Bandsaw I Have Ever Seen

2010-09-10T08:27:00.000-05:00

Photo Via: bednair.org

Here is a really nice homemade 18" woodcutting bandsaw!
I found Steve's site a while back and it looks like he did a really nice job of putting this together.

He does not have plans for sale, but he has posted a lot of photos. If your thinking about a similar project you really should take a close look.

The saw looks like it has a very nice blade guide design that could be retrofitted to some older saws.

When your saw is built, check out Steve's wood chipper!

Nice work Steve!
If you build a saw like this or any other tool ArmChairDIY would love to hear about it.
You may be able to find some parts to use in your building project here

17 Things You Need to Know About Your Christmas Tree

2010-09-10T08:13:00.000-05:00

Photo Via: NCTA

When a Christmas tree is cut, over half of its weight is water. With proper care, you can maintain the quality of your displayed trees. Below are a number of tips relating to the care of displayed trees:

Displaying trees in water in a traditional reservoir type stand is the most effective way of maintaining their freshness and minimizing needle loss problems.
Make a fresh cut to remove about a 1/2-inch thick disk of wood from the base of the trunk before putting the tree in the stand. Make the cut perpendicular to the stem axis. Don't cut the trunk at an angle, or into a v-shape, which makes it far more difficult to hold the tree in the stand and also reduces the amount of water available to the tree.
Once home, place the tree in water as soon as possible. Most species can go 6 to 8 hours after cutting the trunk and still take up water. Don't bruise the cut surface or get it dirty.
If needed, trees can be temporarily stored for several days in a cool location. Place the freshly cut trunk in a bucket that is kept full of water.
To display the trees indoors, use a stand with an adequate water holding capacity for the tree. As a general rule, stands should provide 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter. Devices are available that help maintain a constant water level in the stand.
Use a stand that fits your tree. Avoid whittling the sides of the trunk down to fit a stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed.
Keep displayed trees away from sources of heat (fireplaces, heaters, heat vents, direct sunlight). Lowering the room temperature will slow the drying process, resulting in less water consumption each day.
The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important and does not affect water uptake.
Check the stand daily to make sure that the level of water does not go below the base of the tree. With many stands, there can still be water in the stand even though the base of the tree is no longer submerged in water.
Drilling a hole in the base of the trunk does not improve water uptake.
Use of lights that produce low heat, such as miniature lights, will reduce drying of the tree.
Always inspect light sets prior to placing them on the tree. If worn, replace with a new set.
Do not overload electrical circuits.
Always turn off the tree lights when leaving the house or when going to bed.
Monitor the tree for freshness. After Christmas or if the tree is dry, remove it from the house.
Go to www.realchristmastrees.org and type in your ZIP code to find a recycling program near you.
Never burn any part of a Christmas tree in a wood stove or fireplace.

Prepared by Dr. Gary Chastagner and Dr. Eric Hinesley
Edited by the Scientific Research Committee of the National Christmas Tree Association

I know you have heard about adding 7-up, aspirin, bleach, fertilizer and who knows what else to the water.

Do not add any of these, just plain fresh warm water. Studies have shown that none of these additives help and some may even be harmful.

I grew up on a Christmas Tree Farm and have heard many people swear these things helped, but the real reason their trees lasted so well is they bought quality trees that were harvested and handled properly.

Happy Holidays from ArmchairDIY and enjoy that fresh pine scent in your home.

Parts to Repair Your Tools and Appliances 3 Reliable Sources

2010-09-10T08:01:00.000-05:00

Repair Your Own Appliances

Repairing tools and appliances is not always that difficult. Often times the hardest part is locating the correct parts. We have put together a great list of sources for you to use. Now you can find the parts you need and make the repairs yourself and save a bunch of money doing it.

Sears Parts Direct has parts for all major brands, including GE, Whirlpool, Briggs & Stratton, Husqvarna, Maytag, Craftsman, Kenmore, Bosch, Sony, Panasonic, Singer, ProForm and many more. I have even found parts for a very old Sears Drill Press I own. They have an easy to use website and a very broad range of parts. With exploded diagrams to help you find the right parts. ArmchairDIY is happy to be able to help you [ad#Save 10 percent at sears partsdirect] . Just follow the link from here to save money. Enter your model number or part number and your on your way to getting your repair parts.

Tool Parts Direct also offers [ad#Tool Parts Direct] I have ordered air compressor parts and drill switches from Tool Parts Direct and I have been very happy with the service they have given me. They currently have 609,390 power tool parts online along with over 17,165 free tool schematics. They carry AccuSet, Apach, Biesemeyer, Black and Decker, Bosch, Stanley-Bostitch, Delta, DeVilbiss Air Power, DeWALT, Duo-Fast, Emglo, Flex, Grip-Rite, Hitachi, Ingersoll Rand, Makita, Max, Metabo, Milwaukee, Panasonic, Paslode, Porter Cable, Quik Drive, Ramset, Ridgid, Rol-Air, Ryobi, Senco, Skil, SpotNails, and the list is continually growing. They may also be able to find parts that they do not stock.

RepairClinic For appliance parts visit [ad#repairclinic.com] I have not purchased from them yet, but I have heard positive feedback about the company. The website has an impressive amount of helpful information as well as a very large selection of parts for Admiral Airtemp Amana Amana Commercial Microwave Aprilaire Arctic Air Arietta Asko Autoflow Bemis Bosch Broan Caloric Climatrol Crosley Dacor Dynasty Electrolux Emerson Estate E-Wave Fedders Frigidaire Gaggenau Garland GE General Gibson Glenwood Goldstar Haier Hampton Bay Hardwick Hitachi Holmes Hotpoint Insinkerator JC Penney Jenn Air Kelvinator Kenmore KitchenAid LG Litton Lobb Magic Chef Maytag Modern Maid Montgomery Wards Norge Nutone Panasonic Quasar RCA Roper Samsung Samsung (from Maytag) Sanyo Scotsman Sharp Sinkmaster Skuttle Speed Queen Sub Zero Sunray Tappan Thermador Toshiba U-Line Universal Waste King Westinghouse Whirlaway Whirlpool White-Westinghouse Wolf .
You can see they have a huge selection.

5 Easy Steps to Detect Toilet Leaks Using Food Coloring

2010-09-10T07:26:00.000-05:00

Photo Via: WikiHow

How to Detect Toilet Leaks

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Toilet leaks may be easy to repair, but detecting them is a great challenge, especially when they are completely silent. It's nerve racking to view a water bill and see the amount double or triple what you normally pay for. Here is a very quick and easy method to detect a toilet leak.

Steps

Remove the tank lid of the toilet.
Flush your toilet as usual. Wait for the water to rise again to the designated water line of the tank and the toilet to fully complete a flush.
Drop about 4 to 5 food coloring drops in the toilet tank. You may want to use a dark color such as blue or red instead of yellow.
Replace the toilet lid and wait 20 to 30 minutes.
Survey the toilet bowl. If the water is clear, there is no leak. If the water has changed color, there is a leak present.

Repeat the process with all toilets in the house, if applicable. This is very important to see if the issue is coming from one specific toilet or happening in multiple ones.

Tips
If the toilet is flushed during the waiting process, the end results will be inaccurate as the coloring will "bleed" into the bowl from the tank.
It may take a few flushes for the coloring to disappear altogether.

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Detect Toilet Leaks. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Here Are Some Toilet Repair Parts You May Need

Moldings, It Looks Difficult and Expensive, But Its Cheap and Easy!

2010-09-08T11:00:00.000-05:00

Photo via. Thrifty Decor ChickFaux wainscoting

This is a great technique that give you a lot of bang for your buck. I have it on my to do list for a bathroom and I was going to share the results with you when I get to it, but they have some great examples over at Thrifty Decor Chick Stop by and check it out. It may be a little while before I'm ready to do my bathroom. When I do I will show you details of how to do it.

Save Money Buying Nuts, Bolts and Other Fasteners

2010-09-08T10:55:00.000-05:00

This tip will not save you enough money to retire at the end of the month. But hey, every little bit helps.

Next time you need bolts or fasteners for a project watch the prices a little closer than you may have in the past. Don't just count out how many you need and take them to the check out counter. You may be able to get a few extra for the same price.

Here is an example I checked last time I was at the hardware store. 1/4"-20 carriage bolts were .14 each or a box of 100 for $8.79.
A box of 100 for $8.79 Thats roughly .09 each instead of $14.00 at .14 each if you buy individually
So if you need sixty two bolts or more buy the box, the next 38 come free!

Add an Electric Outlet to an Existing Wall, Without Tears

2010-09-08T10:51:00.000-05:00

Photo via. woodgears.ca

Some place on your to do list is there a line that says "add a new outlet" ? You have been avoiding doing it haven't you? Don't lie to us, we are all friends here, we know the truth. No need to keep avoiding that wiring project. There is an easy cheap fix to your dilemma.

Matthias Wandel over at Woodengears has an excellent photo tutorial on how to install a electrical outlet in a finished drywall wall. The same basic principle can be used to ad a switch as well. Read it carefully grab a few basic tools and cross it off your to do list.

When your done being an electrician look around at some of his other projects. He has designed and created some very useful and interesting projects. Wooden machines, some great jigs, woodworking plans, a bunch of great stuff. This site is really a must see. I always enjoy checking in to see what great ideas he has created.

Oh Baby, Child-Proofing Your Home

2010-09-08T10:43:00.000-05:00

Years ago, parents never really thought about "baby proofing" their home. That's because back then there wasn't as much danger lurking in every corner as there is today. Luckily, all it takes is some basic common sense and a few simple procedures to make your home safe. In the end, some parts of your house may look a little prison-esque with new latches and guards, but it's worth the peace of mind.

Your living space is loaded with all kinds of possible land mines for little ones. Check out the list of danger spots below, then conduct a simple experiment: Crawl around your house on your hands and knees to see it through the eyes of a toddler. Chances are, you'll spot problem areas you'd normally overlook. Then (on just your two feet this time) visit the baby proofing section of your local hardware store for all their safety solutions. They're easy to install, but be sure to double check each device to make sure it works. Of course, you'll still want to keep an eye on your child. After all, tots can be pretty resourceful...just think of how they open "childproof" caps.

What You Need:

All the appropriate baby proofing equipment

Basic installation tools including drill, hammer, screwdrivers, etc.

Area: Electrical outlets

Danger: Shock

Solution: Safety plugs that cover the outlet when not in use. Also, if you must use extension cords, make sure the outlet-part isn't easily accessible; run it high up on a wall or behind heavy furniture.

Search Amazon.com for Safety plugs

Area: Windows

Danger: Falling out

Solution: Latches that lock to the frame and keep the window from opening wide enough for your child to fit through. Also, if your sash cords dangle near the floor, install a hook to hang them higher up--they're a strangulation risk.

Search Amazon.com for window safety latches

Area: Doors

Danger: Access to other dangers

Solution: Make sure all your doors close tightly and that handles can't be reached by little ones climbing on nearby chairs or other perches. If they can, put a simple hook-and-eye safety latch high up on the frame.

Search Amazon.com for hook-and-eye safety latch

Area: Drawers

Danger: Slammed fingers and sometimes worse...finding what's inside the drawers

Solution: Safety latches, installed at the top of the drawer, keep the drawer from opening more than a half-inch or so, unless you reach inside to trigger the latch.

Search Amazon.com for drawer safety latch

Area: Stairways and ledges

Danger: Falling and sliding

Solution: Gates at the top of the stairs, and at the bottom if your child tends to crawl up the stairs when unsupervised.

Search Amazon.com for baby gate

Area: Stair railings

Danger: Falling

Solution: If the gap between railings on a stairway or at the landing is wide enough to crawl through you should rig a device to stop kids from doing so. Try netting or ropes (we warned you that this may not be pretty, didn't we?).

Area: Toilet

Danger: Drowning

Solution: Latches that mount onto the basin can keep the lid closed when it's not in use. (And, no, we don't have any tips on training the man of the house to close the lid.)

Search Amazon.com for toilet latch

Area: Bathtub

Danger: Drowning and bruising

Solution: Add non-slip mats on the bottom of the tub and soft-foam spout covers to avoid contact with the metal that can cause cuts and contusions.

Area: Medicine cabinet

Danger: Drug overdose

Solution: Keep the most dangerous medicines at the top of the cabinet or, better yet, in a separate locked container. And keep in mind that to a small child even something "safe," like vitamins or aspirin, is OD material.

Area: Stove

Danger: Burning

Solution: Knob covers on the stove can foil a child playing with fire, but also make sure a child can't crawl along the counter to the burners.

Search Amazon.com for stove safety covers

Area: Cleaning-supplies closet

Danger: Poisoning

Solution: Latches and locks keep the door from opening but, just to be safe, we suggest moving all cleaning products to high, inaccessible spots. They're poisonous enough to kill you, who probably outweighs your kid by at least 500 percent.

Area: Shelves, TV stands, etc.

Danger: Falling objects

Solution: Brackets that attach the shelf or appliance to a wall (or other stable surface) keep them from falling on a kid who climbs up it. Again, think about this when doing "the crawl-through inspection."

Via: True Value Company

What Is A Septic System and How You Should Maintain It

2010-09-02T08:28:00.000-05:00

There are a number of different septic systems, each with its own design. The conventional system is the one most commonly used (Figure 1). It consists of three main parts: the septic tank, the drainfield, and the soil beneath the drainfield.
The septic tank is a watertight concrete box about 9 feet long and 5 feet tall. It is buried in the ground just outside the home. The tank is usually precast from reinforced concrete and can be purchased from concrete manufacturers. While typically designed with a 1,000-gallon liquid capacity, the size of the tank is legally determined by the number of bedrooms in the home. The tank temporarily holds household wastes and allows a small amount of pretreatment to take place (Figure 2).

The tank is connected to the drainfield by a buried pipe. A typical drainfield consists of two to five trenches excavated into the subsoil. In many systems, a distribution box or a flow divider helps move wastewater to each trench. In most conventional septic systems, the trenches are 3 feet wide, 2 to 3 feet deep, and 9 feet apart. In each trench, a 1-foot thick layer of washed gravel or stone is placed around a 4-inch-diameter perforated distribution pipe. After the trenches are covered with soil, the area must be landscaped to keep surface waters from ponding over the drainfield.
The drainfield has also been called the nitrification field or the soil absorption field. The sole purpose of the drainfield is to deliver wastewater to the soil. The soil purifies the wastewater by removing the germs and chemicals before they reach the groundwater or any adjacent surface waters such as rivers, lakes, and estuaries.

: Fig.1 Conventional Septic System

: Fig.2 Septic Tank

What Takes Place in the Tank?
All of the wastewaters from the home should flow into the septic tank. Even waters from the shower, bathtub, and washing machine can contain disease-causing germs or environmental pollutants. As wastewater flows into the tank, the heavier solid materials settle to the bottom (forming a sludge layer), the lighter greases and fats float to the top (forming a scum layer), and the liquid (sewage effluent) flows out of the tank. An outlet baffle (or a sanitary tee at the outlet end) prevents solids from flowing out with the liquids. The tank's primary purpose is to retain the solids while releasing sewage effluent to the drainfield.
What Happens in the Drainfileld and the Soil?
The real treatment of the wastewater occurs in the soil beneath the drainfield. Sewage effluent flows out of the tank as a cloudy liquid that still contains many disease-causing germs and environmental pollutants. Effluent flows into the perforated pipe in the trenches, passes through the holes in the pipe, and then trickles down through the gravel to the soil. As effluent enters and flows through the soil, many of the bacteria that can cause diseases are filtered out. Some of the smaller germs, such as viruses, are absorbed by the soil until they are destroyed. The soil can also retain certain chemicals, including phosphorus and some forms of nitrogen.
What Maintenance Is Needed?
Both the septic tank and the drainfield must be properly maintained. With conscientious maintenance, the system should work correctly for many years. Such maintenance begins with water use and waste disposal habits. Since your family will determine which materials enter the system, you should establish rules for proper use and maintenance.
The suggestions outlined below will save you anguish and money when applied to most conventional systems. More sophisticated systems require additional maintenance, possibly at much greater cost. Also, recent rule changes now require owners of some alternative septic systems and community septic systems to hire a certified operator to maintain their systems. For more information about these requirements, contact your local health department.
Tips for Maintaining Your Septic System

Do not put too much water into the septic system; typical water use is about 50 gallons per day for each person in the family.
Do not add materials (chemicals, sanitary napkins, applicators, and so on) other than domestic wastewater.
Restrict the use of your garbage disposal.
Do not pour grease or cooking oils down the sink drain.
Make a diagram showing the location of your tank drainfield and repair area.
Install a watertight concrete riser over the septic tank to simplify access.
Periodically have the solids pumped out of the septic tank.
Maintain adequate vegetative cover over the drainfield.
Keep surface waters away from the tank and drainfield.
Keep automobiles and heavy equipment off the system.
Do not plan any building additions, pools, driveways, or other construction work near the septic system or the repair area.

Will I Need to Pump the Tank?
After a few years, the solids that accumulate in the septic tank should be pumped out and disposed of at an approved location. If not removed, these solids will eventually overflow, accumulate in the drainfield, and clog the pores (openings) in the soil.
This blockage severely damages the drainfield. While some clogging of soil pores slowly occurs even in a properly functioning system, excess solids from a poorly maintained tank can completely close all soil pores so that no wastewater can flow into the soil. The sewage effluent will then either back up into the house or flow across the ground surface over the drainfield. If this happens, you may need to construct a new drainfield on a different part of your lot. Pumping the septic tank after the soil drainfield has become completely clogged will not rejuvenate the system. It will provide only a few days reprieve until the tank fills up again.
How Will I Know When to Pump the Tank?
The frequency with which you will need to pump depends on three variables: the size of your tank, the volume of your wastewater, and the solids content of your wastewater. If you are unsure about when to have the tank pumped, observe the yearly rate of solids accumulation. The tank should be pumped if the sludge layer has built up to within 25 to 33 percent of the liquid capacity of the tank. Therefore, a typical 1,000 gallon tank with a 4-foot liquid capacity should be pumped when the solids are 1-foot thick in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is not easily accessible, you may wish to inspect and pump it according to the frequency guidelines in Table 1. Your local health department should be able to tell you the size of your tank. When inspecting the tank, check the sanitary tee or the outlet baffle to be sure that it has not broken off and dropped into the tank. Also, be sure to have both compartments of the tank pumped.
Table 1. Estimated Septic Tank Inspection and Pumping Frequency in Years

Table 1. Estimated Septic Tank Inspection and Pumping Frequency in Years
Tank Size (gallons)	Number of People Using the System
Tank Size (gallons)	1	2	4	6
900	11	5	2	1
1,000	12	6	3	2
1,250	16	8	3	2
1,500	19	9	4	3
Source: Adapted from "Estimated Septic Tank Pumping Frequency," by Karen Mancl, 1984. Journal of Environmental Engineering. Volume 110.

If the septic system is not used very often (as in an infrequently used vacation home with a correctly sized tank), it will probably not need to be pumped as frequently as indicated in the table. If you use a garbage disposal, the tank may need to be pumped more frequently. After a few inspections, you should be able to adjust the schedule according to the rate at which solids accumulate.
What Should Not Be Put into the Septic System?
Make sure you are aware of the types and amounts of extra waste materials that are poured down the drain. Limiting the use of your garbage disposal will minimize the flow of excess solids to your tank. Garbage disposals usually double the amount of solids added to the tank.
Do not pour cooking greases, oils, and fats down the drain. Grease hardens in the septic tank and accumulates until it clogs the inlet or outlet. Grease poured down the drain with hot water may flow through the septic tank and clog soil pores completely.
Pesticides, paints, paint thinners, solvents, disinfectants, poisons, and other household chemicals should not be dumped down the drain into a septic system because they may kill soil microorganisms that help purify the sewage. Also, some organic chemicals will flow untreated through the septic tank and the soil, thus contaminating the underlying groundwater.
Are Septic-Tank Cleaners Necessary?
No. These products include biologically based materials (bacteria, enzymes, and yeast), inorganic chemicals (acids and bases), or organic chemicals (including solvents). They do not reduce the need for regular pumping of the septic tank. Some of these products contain organic chemicals and may even damage the drainfield or contaminate the groundwater and nearby wells.
Is Special Care Needed for the Drainfield?
Yes. The drainfield does not have an unlimited capacity. The more water your family uses, the greater the likelihood of problems with the septic system.
Water conservation practices can help reduce the amount of wastewater generated in the home. Periodically check your plumbing for leaky faucets and toilets. Uncorrected leaks can more than double the amount of water you use. Many soils that can absorb the 200 to 250 gallons of sewage usually produced each day by a family of four would become waterlogged if an extra 250 gallons were added. For more information on this subject see North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service publications HE-250, Focus on Residential Water Conservation and HE-213, Water Management Checklist for the Home.
Be sure that foundation drains, roof waters, gutter waters, and surface waters from driveways and other paved areas do not flow over the septic tank or the drainfield. Careful landscaping can help direct excess surface waters away from the system.
What about Alternatives to the Conventional System?
Other types of septic systems are sometimes used on sites where the soil is not suited to a conventional system. Where soils are too wet or too shallow for the conventional system, the drainfield might be placed very close to the ground surface in the upper layers of the soil. In some wet soils, artificial drainage around the septic system lowers the level of the shallow water table. On some clayey soils that have a thick sandy surface, the low-pressure pipe (LPP) system provides an alternative. A wrapped pipe 8 to 10 inches in diameter is sometimes used in gravelless, hand-dug trenches on very steep slopes.
On some soils that are not deep enough to provide adequate treatment of the sewage effluent, it may be possible to use an aerobic treatment unit (ATU) to supplement the soil's treatment capacity.
Summary
The septic system is an efficient, inexpensive, and convenient method for treating and disposing of household wastewater. Because not all soils are suited for conventional systems, a comprehensive soil and site investigation must be performed before you purchase any land.
Septic systems will adequately absorb and purify wastewater if they are properly maintained. A few precautions can save you anguish and money. Reducing water use, avoiding grease, pumping the tank periodically, and properly landscaping the yard to keep surface water away from the tank and drainfield are inexpensive precautions that can help assure your system a long life. The Cooperative Extension Service publication (AG-439-22) Septic System Owner's Guide summarizes some important day-to-day management and periodic maintenance activities to improve the longevity of your system. When properly located and maintained, your system should provide years of trouble-free, low-cost service.
Reference:Tyler, E. T., R. Laak, E. McCoy, and S. S. Sandhu. 1977. "The Soil as a Treatment System." in Home Sewage Treatment. ASAE publication 5-77. Excerpts from http://www.soil.ncsu.edu

Choose & Install Smoke Alarms

2010-09-02T08:27:00.000-05:00

Level of difficulty: Beginner
Installing smoke detectors in your home is quick, inexpensive and essential to you and your family's safety. Determine the type of smoke detector you wish to install. Battery operated, stand-alone units are inexpensive, low maintenance and readily available at your local True Value hardware store.
Search Amazon.com for smoke detector
When purchasing smoke detectors, be sure also to select one specifically made for the kitchen to reduce false alarms. Other areas of your home may require special detectors as well. Ask your True Value expert for advice on which detector is right for which location. Be sure to test your detectors monthly and change the batteries twice a year (when you change your clocks). According to national research, the majority of smoke detectors fail due to missing, disconnected or dead batteries.

Materials List:
Screwdrivers
10-ft. or 25-ft. tape measure
Batteries
Pencil
Step 1: Simple Solution for Safety
Stand-alone battery-operated smoke detectors are inexpensive and easy to install. Detectors are unobtrusive and should be located on all floors of your house. Use the tape measure to place them evenly throughout your home in foyers, stairwells and hallways. Avoid kitchens, bathrooms or garages, as there are often sources that can trip the sensor and cause false alarms or else purchase those that are specifically made for these areas.
Step 2: Test the Alarm
Be sure to thoroughly read the instructions included with the smoke detector before beginning. Install the batteries in the detector and depress the test button to make sure the alarm works.
Step 3: Install the Detector
Following any specific directions that come with the detector, use the drill and screws to mount the back plate of the smoke detector to the wall or ceiling. Check to be sure the battery is correctly installed and replace the front cover of the unit.
Step 4: Enjoy Peace of Mind
Your house and family now have an extra level of protection!
Via. TrueValue Company

Cutting Cope Joints For Baseboard: Video

2010-09-02T08:22:00.000-05:00

A cope joint is what the pros use when installing baseboard. This joint is the most effective joint to masks woods natural tendency to move. It is really a simple joint to create, but many people are confused by the process. Here is a great tutorial on using a cope joint to install baseboard .

Using a Swanson Speed Square Video, Basic Roof Layout

2010-09-02T08:19:00.000-05:00

The Swanson Speed Square has found a place in most of our tool belts. It's quick to use, serves many purposes, and it's almost bullet proof. A must have for any framing project.
But still as popular as it is, many still are not using it to it's full potential. Here is a good video presentation explaining the basics of using the Speed Square for roof layout. Once you learn how to use the Swanson Speed Square it will be one tool you will not want to be without. It's not easy to find a cheap durable tool that can do so much. check it out and leave a comment telling everyone how you use your speed square.

Wall Framing, 8 Names You Need to Know

2010-09-02T08:15:00.001-05:00

Here is a visual guide to wall framing components. Although there are regional variations you will find the following names are very common. Shoulder Studs, header, window stud or king stud, regular stud, cripple studs, sill, double top plate, bottom plate. If you use a different name for any of these framing members we would like to hear about it. Leave us a comment below.

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2 Easy Ways to Build it Perfectly Square

2010-09-02T08:14:00.000-05:00

: Fig.1 Corner to corner dimensions should be equal

Building a garden shed, garage, deck or any other project requires things to be square and level.That framing square in your tool box can be handy, but when proportions start to get large it's best to use other methods. Small errors magnify over larger dimensions. 1/8" out of square in two feet is equal to 3/4" out of square in 12' or 1 1/2" in 24'. Now you can see why a two foot framing square is not accurate enough to lay out a 24' garage.
Corner to Corner
Measuring in an X pattern as in fig.1. Both cross dimensions should be equal. If they are not equal you need to make adjustments.

: Fig.2 Three, four, five

3,4,5
If you do not have four corners to measure to. The 3,4,5, method can be used. Measure out any factor of 3,4,5 for example 3,8,10 see fig.2.
It always pays to take time to make sure your measurements and layout is accurate in the beginning. It can be very hard to fix or hide mistakes latter on. So take time to plan and mark everything out now and you project will go much smoother. So use these 2 quick tips on your next carpentry or woodworking project and things will fit and look great.

Designing a Home For Cost Savings and Comfort

2010-09-02T08:12:00.000-05:00

In the recent past both new homes and addition sizes have increased dramatically in square footage and at the same time becoming more elaborate and feature rich. Granted this has not happened in all sectors of the housing market. But the influence is seen and felt across the board. We are all guilty of being envious of the big house down the street, even if financially we are unable to act upon our desire to have a home like that.
This is a topic I have thought about much over the years. Both personally and professionally regarding the homes I have worked on and lived in. From a professional carpenters standpoint; these large luxury homes are very fun and rewarding to work on. Even though they are at time very over the top. From a personal perspective large homes can feel almost institutional and uncomfortable.

Down Grade Keeping Value and Lowering Construction Costs

Choosing laminate counter tops instead of solid surface.
Granite, Corion, or Soapstone, to name a few are beautiful but much more expensive than plastic laminate. Consider some of the newer plastic laminate patterns. There may very well be more option and choices than you had been aware of. Laminate such as Wilsonart or Formica for example are durable attractive and economical.
Appliance selections can contribute a large sum of money to your construction budget. Carefully research your choices. Choose energy efficency over the latest trendy designs or features. A six burner stainless steel commercial range may look impressive, but if you only cook one or to nights a week, for 3 people it is just is not cost effective.
Small deck are attractive and functional
Unless you entertain very large groups on a regular basis, a 1500 square foot deck is not required. Such overly large luxury items add initial expense and continue to be a large maintenance expense for years to come.
Used wisely landscaping can be beautiful and functional as well
Careful planning can provide shade, privacy, wildlife habitat and water run off management, very beneficial features. On the opposite end of the scale landscaping can add up to thousands or tens of thousands of dollars in initial costs and require extensive on going care. Careful planning can provide the benefits without being overly costly. This is one phase of your project that can be added to over time as well, spreading the cost and work over a few seasons.
Bigger is not always better
Overly large rooms can feel un inviting and impersonal. Proper design considerations can create a very comfortable and functional living space. Utilize wasted space for storage using built in features.
Design and planning
When considering and planning your next project carefully asses your true needs. We all enjoy and deserve a few luxuries in life, but truly think about the extent of these items. With careful planning a material selection you are able to create the look and functionality you desire for a more economical price. It is possible to down grade slightly and still design a comfortable living space and increase home value. Doing so may bring your home improvement project into your desired budget range.

Regular HVAC Mechanical Maintenance and Upgrades Save Energy

2010-09-02T08:09:00.000-05:00

Regular maintenance of your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system is important. Unfortunately it is not a good DIY project. Specialized tools and knowledge are required.You can and should replace your furnace filter at recommended intervals though, but the rest is best left to the proffesionals.
Here is author Jane Muder to explains more about the HVAC industry, and the maintenance of your mechanical systems.

Regular HVAC Mechanical Maintenance and Upgrades Save Energy
By Jane Muder
Regular mechanical maintenance of HVAC systems is the best way for homeowners to save money on their bills over the long run. While repairs might seem expensive at first, the payoffs later on are numerous.
Today's HVAC technicians have received comprehensive vocational training at technical schools or colleges featuring class work specifically geared to refrigeration, heating, cooling, and mechanical maintenance careers. Often, these trade schools instruct students in the latest HVAC technologies, which include sophisticated pumping and cooling system repair, and techniques for upgrading chlorofluorocarbon-reliant (CFC) coolant systems with environmentally friendly materials.
Why is regular HVAC mechanical maintenance important?
Most homeowners do not notice that an HVAC system is malfunctioning or performing poorly until the system shuts down. This is an unfortunate way to approach HVAC maintenance. Small malfunctions or errors in an HVAC system's operation early on can lead to inefficiencies in heating and cooling. Ultimately, these inefficiencies result in wasted energy and high gas and electric bills. If you have noticed dramatic jumps in your utility bills, think about when your HVAC system was last serviced before shrugging the high bill totals off as symptoms of inflation.
Efficiency loss in an HVAC system is gradual, but pernicious. The purpose of regular maintenance is to keep small systemic leaks, cracks, gaps, or slowdowns in check so that homeowners have the best, most energy-efficient, continuously performing HVAC systems possible. In vocational school, HVAC and mechanical maintenance engineers are trained to perform thorough inspections, to test systems in a proactive fashion, and to accurately and rapidly diagnose system malfunctions.
HVAC and mechanical maintenance technicians are also adept at determining when a heating or cooling system must be replaced entirely. Upfront, the cost of replacing an HVAC system can seem prohibitively expensive. However, the newer a system is, the more likely it is to employ highly energy-efficient technology, saving you money on your heating and cooling bills over a long period of time.
What can I do to save money on my heating and cooling bills?
Homeowners can take several steps to ensure their HVAC systems run efficiently between maintenance periods. Here are a few tips:

In hot weather, do not run your air conditioner continuously on the coldest setting. Turning the A/C up just a few degrees can prolong the life of your HVAC system.
Make sure that you have adequate amounts of refrigerant in your HVAC system before hot weather arrives. A HVAC repair person or mechanical maintenance engineer can assess your coolant levels. If your system is cooled by chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), have the cooling mechanism replaced with a greener technology.
Install ceiling and central room fans during hot weather. These fans will enhance the efficiency of your air conditioner, allowing it to perform better while conserving energy.

Search Amazon.com for ceiling fan

Prior to the arrival of cool weather, have your heating ducts cleaned -- and have your heating filter replaced regularly thereafter. Clogged or dirty ducts or filters can hamper the efficiency of your HVAC system during cold weather.

Search Amazon.com for furnace filters

Have your furnace inspected before the cold season arrives. Furnaces that aren't working properly can contribute to wasted energy, inefficient system performance, CO2 leaks, carbon monoxide poisoning, and even home fires.
Insulate your home from cold weather so the heater doesn't need to work as hard. Insulating your windows with plastic wrap or weatherproofing strips helps. You can also insulate your home by sealing cracks in windows and doors.

Search Amazon.com for window shrink film

Turn down the heat, even when you're home. You can save major money on your gas or electric bill by turning the thermostat down a few degrees and wearing a sweater.

Search Amazon.com for thermostats programmable

Regular mechanical maintenance of HVAC systems, combined with homeowner initiative and attention to energy conservation result in greener, more efficient home heating and cooling.
The Refrigeration School, Inc. is a vocational HVAC and mechanical maintenance school located in Phoenix, AZ. The school provides technician training that prepares the graduates of tomorrow to work on the latest HVAC technologies. For more information, visit RSI online at refrigerationschool.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jane_Muder
http://EzineArticles.com/?Regular-HVAC-Mechanical-Maintenance-and-Upgrades-Save-Energy&id=1114446

Toilet Bowl Wax Rings and How to Replace Them

2010-09-02T07:59:00.001-05:00

Faucetman886 has a great writeup explaining toilet bowl wax rings. Below is an excerpt from his article.

"New Idea For Replacing a Wax Ring". Follow the link to read the entire article.Faucetman886 says:

I read a lot of forums with questions regarding toilet leaks, smells coming from under toilets and how to properly install a new or reinstall and old toilet. In most cases the offending problem is the wax ring under the toilet. For as many questions there are there are an equal number of answers and versions but I ran across one of the best this weekend. It includes a new idea for utilizing 2 wax rings instead of just one. This is not to be confused with the idea that you can use 2 rings to raise the toilet up from a sunken closet flange but the second wax ring is softened and used to seal around the flange and to create a wax to wax seal for the new ring. This process comes from “DUNBAR PLUMBER” the moderator of one of my favorite discussion forums
http://forum.doityourself.com/plumbing-piping-31/

Lumber Grade Stamps Confusing You?

2010-09-02T07:57:00.000-05:00

Lumber grades

FAS 1-Face (F1F abbreviation) is a Select piece of lumber that is 6 inches and wider.

* Select is a No. 1 Common piece of lumber (the poorer side grades No. 1 Common) and the reverse side (the better side) grades FAS. The price of Selects and 1-Face is usually the same as FAS. Much of this grade is also exported, but if exceptionally long, wide, and clear on both faces, cuttings are required, then Select lumber is often used. Often, Select grade lumber is used in the Northern U.S., while 1-Face is used in the South.

* No. 1 Common (often called Common or just No. 1) is the standard furniture grade lumber, and provides a good selection of long, medium length, and short cuttings at a reasonable price.

* No. 2A Common (often just called No. 2 Common) has become the standard grade for cabinets, millwork, and other uses requiring medium to short cuttings. Often current prices favor using No. 2 Common instead of No. 1 common for furniture, even though yields are lower with No. 2.

* No. 2B Common is the same as No. 2A Common, except that stain and other sound defects are admitted in the clear cuttings. It is an excellent paint grade.

* No. 3A Common (which is often combined with No. 3B Common and the combination is sold as No. 3 Common) is widely used for flooring and pallets.

* No. 3B Common is graded on the basis of sound cuttings rather than clear cuttings. It is widely used for pallets and crating.

Next time you are shopping for boards or lumber you can be confident you are getting just what you needed for your next home improvement project.You have heard the mention of lumber grades but you may not know what it means.
*FAS 1-Face (F1F abbreviation) is a Select piece of lumber that is 6 inches and wider.
* Select is a No. 1 Common piece of lumber (the poorer side grades No. 1 Common) and the reverse side (the better side) grades FAS. The price of Selects and 1-Face is usually the same as FAS. Much of this grade is also exported, but if exceptionally long, wide, and clear on both faces, cuttings are required, then Select lumber is often used. Often, Select grade lumber is used in the Northern U.S., while 1-Face is used in the South.
* No. 1 Common (often called Common or just No. 1) is the standard furniture grade lumber, and provides a good selection of long, medium length, and short cuttings at a reasonable price.
* No. 2A Common (often just called No. 2 Common) has become the standard grade for cabinets, millwork, and other uses requiring medium to short cuttings. Often current prices favor using No. 2 Common instead of No. 1 common for furniture, even though yields are lower with No. 2.
* No. 2B Common is the same as No. 2A Common, except that stain and other sound defects are admitted in the clear cuttings. It is an excellent paint grade.
* No. 3A Common (which is often combined with No. 3B Common and the combination is sold as No. 3 Common) is widely used for flooring and pallets.
* No. 3B Common is graded on the basis of sound cuttings rather than clear cuttings. It is widely used for pallets and crating.

Reading a Tape Measure-5 Inches and How Many of Those Little Marks?

2010-09-02T07:53:00.001-05:00

Do you need a little refresher course on how to read a tape measure? It's been a while since you were in school you say, your fractions are a little rusty. Here is a little photo to help jog your memory.
Now when you are ready to go to the hardware store or lumber yard you can give them accurate measurements, just like a professional carpenter.
Now promise me, you won't say" five inches and five little marks" ever again. Great, thats much better!

Clogged Drain? Cheap Green Drain Cleaners You Can Make Yourself

2010-09-02T07:38:00.001-05:00

The sink or tub is draining slow and you have a pit in your stomach.

Here are four options you can try before running to the store to buy some nasty poisonous drain cleaner. They are cheap safe alternatives to caustic cleaners or plumbers. In their defense, plumbers are generally are not really very caustic.
Let Us tell you how to do it yourself and once again save you some money in the process.

Option #1

Boiling water can also be used to clear drains that are clogged by soap and hair.
Option#2
Vinegar and baking soda
Pouring baking soda followed by vinegar down a drain can be used to unclog drains. Baking soda is alkaline, and vinegar is acidic. When the two reactants interact they create mostly inactive material, salts and water, and the amount of reactants (vinegar) will determine the output pH of the reaction. This is more effective as a way to evenly coat the pipes in which will most likely be an acidic reaction. This method is more ecologically friendly, but not as effective as using harmful chemicals such as sulfuric acid or a strong alkaline.
Option #3
Pour 1 cup of baking soda down the drain followed by 1 cup of hot vinegar. Try heating the vinegar in the microwave before adding it to the drain. Wait 5 minutes before flushing the drain with 2 quarts of hot water. You can repeat this process a few times if it is necessary. If this is the first time you have cleaned your drain in a long time it may be necessary to repeat the baking soda flush a couple of times.

Option #4

Try pouring 1 Cup of baking soda and 1/2 Cup of salt down the drain. Let this mixture sit in the drain for several hours, overnight is best, before flushing the drain with 2 cups of boiling water.
Use baking soda that has been used in the refrigerator or freezer to help clean the drains and you'll extend the use of something you otherwise would have just thrown away.
Try putting baking soda down the drain without rinsing when you are going on vacation or even just a weekend trip. It will help reduce odors that may develop while you are gone. Flush the baking soda out of the drain with hot water or hot vinegar followed by hot water when you return.
Benefits of using Baking Soda in your Drains
A Safe green alternative that you can do your self. Using Baking Soda to clean your drains eliminates harsh chemicals that may leave odors and residue in your sinks.
All of the listed combinations are environmentally friendly, which will help concerns about chemical contamination, or even the risk associated with having chemicals in a home with children.
The best way to keep drains clean and clog-free is by taking preventive measures. At least once a month, pour a half cup of baking soda down drains and then flush with cold water. And, at the first sign of slow-draining water, try using a plunger to dislodge debris in the pipe and do so in a timely fashion.
Edit:
Here is a new article at Armchair DIY about fixing a slow draining sink you may find helpful. This method uses no chemicals or cleaners at all. Just a little old fashioned elbow grease and your drain will be good as new. Check out Cleaning a Sink Drain Without Chemicals

Quick Home Repairs The 10 Things to Have On Hand To DIY

2010-09-02T07:35:00.001-05:00

For only a few dollars you can have a few things on hand that will make those projects around the house go quick and easy. By collecting just a some basic supplies you can save a few trips to the hardware store. If you have these things on hand it will be much easier to cross something off your to-do list when you have a few minutes to spare. As long as your making a list and heading to your local home improvement store you may want to pick up a few basic tools to. Here is a list of the basics tools you may need.
Often you can find small plastic containers of assorted screws and fasteners. These give you a nice assortment and a place to store them so they are easy to find when you need them.

Drywall screws. These black screws are great for almost any indoor fastening need. Pick up a few in varying lengths. They are cheap and you will be glad you have them on hand.
Finish nails or Brads. These nails have a very small head. they are used to refasten loose wood trim or moldings.
Common Nails or Box Nails These have a pronounced head. Small ones are great for hanging pictures
Sand Paper or Sanding Sponge Cleaning and smoothing, you will be happy to have these on hand
Super Glue This is a very handy item for quick repairs on many materials and has a long shelf life
Tape Duct tape, black electrical, and masking
Wire Nuts if you have any wiring projects keep a few of these handy
Machine Screws A small assortment can be a life saver you may not use them often, but you will be happy you had them when you need one
Exterior Screws Drywall screws do not last long outside, so you may want an assortment of deck screws
Spray adhesive A spray can of this contact type adhesive has many uses, if you have a can on the shelf you may find you use it more often than you thought.

Don't forget to organize your supplies so they are easy to locate when you need them. Plastic storage boxes, jars, cans, anything is better than nothing.