Art and Entertain me

Hotel Paradox in Santa Cruz: Welcoming the Great Outdoors

2012-10-06T06:42:00.001-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
The concept of outdoor living is most prominent along the Pacific Coast of California, where the summers are breezy, the winters are balmy, and the breathtaking ocean side cliffs are covered with wind-twisted cypresses and multi-colored succulents.
Santa Cruz on Monterey Bay is a one of those coastal towns where the locals and tourists alike love to spend their time outdoors – walking, bicycling, wading, sun tanning, or bringing their younger family members to the amusement park of the famous Beach Boardwalk.
Newly opened Hotel Paradox – the latest addition to the BPR Properties – with its indoor-outdoor living concept in the heart of the city invites its guests to “Expect the Unexpected.”
Upon entering the lobby, the first thing you see is a front desk made of a whole giant redwood, behind which attentive staff members are performing the necessary paperwork for you to start enjoying your stay as soon as possible.
Three-dimensional replicas of squirrels populate the hallway wall, redwood glass paining surrounds the Grove Room, intended for banquets and corporate events, and redwood stumps serve as coffee tables in guest rooms and the lounge area.
The rooms are also decorated with rough plank elements and tree bark photographic close ups creating a feeling of a cozy retreat in the woods.
Created by a structural architecture team from San Luis Obispo and a design team from San Francisco, Paradox presents itself as a downtown hotel with multiple artistic references to the nearby Santa Cruz Mountains.
Solaire Restaurant & Bar on the premises evokes the sunny sky and forest canopy over clean white leather booths, white thick plastic tables, textured gray wallpaper and carpet, and dark slate floor of an elegant eating space for all occasions.
Geared toward corporate meetings and events as much as toward family vacationers, the hotel presented its endless banquet and entertaining possibilities at the opening party last month.
Creative cocktails were served in the bar; antipasti – in the Grove Room. Shrimp cocktail, crab salad, and steamed dumpling appetizers were passed around; pulled and rolled pork, and beef prime rib were sliced in the patio, chicken and veggie skewers grilled around the cabanas and fire pits.
Lavish desserts served in the grand Sequoia Ballroom.
Stilt walkers, fire dancers, and live band performed at the event.
Both the full-service restaurant Solaire and the banquet crew put their emphasis on locally sourced seasonal fare to create the Modern American cuisine menu. Meat, eggs, and produce come from the nearby farmers market, seafood – from the Monterey Bay.
Staying in Hotel Paradox while traveling in California, or choosing it for a family celebration, a corporate meeting or event means endless opportunities to enjoy everything the city of Santa Cruz has to offer. The sun-drenched beaches teaming with wildlife are only a mile away.
On the Municipal Wharf it is easy to get a full view of sea lions resting underneath the wooden sidewalk, or stay close to a fearless pelican watching out for a random treat.
A nice walk along the cliff boardwalk takes you to the Natural Bridges State Beach with its natural stone “bridge” and unparalleled views of the Bay. Dolphins, sea otters, and migrating whales can be seen here.
Santa Cruz Pacific Avenue with cute little cafes, boutique shops and stores is just a 15 minute walk from the hotel.
Hotel Paradox is located at 611 Ocean Street, Santa Cruz, California. For more information and reservations go to: www.thehotelparadox.com

Custom Made Theatre Making Sense of Albee’s Controversial Play

2012-10-03T16:40:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov

Edward Albee’s 1996 “The Play About the Baby” operates with some timeless references everyone can relate to – a young love, a stolen baby – and with others, not evoking too much empathy, like gypsies stealing their victims’ life savings and babies, or a Watteau-style painter hanging himself upon a break-up with his lover/model. Maybe it’s because the latter references reek of urban legends dated, like, a century ago? The stuff you don’t even hear in the news… like, ever.

But, of course, after “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf,” Pulitzer Prizes and Tony Awards the author can pull off anything, including the absurdist mish-mash suspended over time, place, or social identifiers.

To the honor of Custom Made Theatre, the play, directed by Brian Katz and performed by a small but multi-talented ensemble, is a total attention-grabber which leaves audiences satisfactory discontent with the plot development and eager to discuss, argue, take sides, and make points, which is always a good indication of a theatre production well done and properly delivered.

Richard Aiello (Man) makes his character exceedingly believable despite the total lack of written background this character presumably comes from. We see and listen to the man – well-educated, sarcastic, manipulative, and thoroughly engaging, who masters total command of both the other characters and the audience. Since the show is happening on the intimate tiny stage of the Gough Street Playhouse located in a church basement, the immediacy of the happening is palpable.

Anya Kazimierski (Girl) delivers a very realistic performance of a wonderfully uncharacteristic young wife and mother whose only role in the play or in her life is to be a young wife and mother, sometimes mixing up the two sides of her role to the author’s specifications.

Linda Ayres-Frederick (Woman) might look like overdoing it at times, but come to think of it her role is written with so many inexplicable details – character traits, life circumstances, and means of expressing those – that any far-fetched and not too exciting stretches might be just what this role requires.

Shane Rhoades (Boy) could have benefited from better enunciation (or, rather, the audience would have benefited from it) but otherwise he is very much fit for the role of a young husband enormously enamored and engaged with his wife and “hard all the time” to put it in author’s own words chosen for this character.

Speaking of fit, the full frontal nudity scenes involving Boy’s and Girl’s foreplay and lovemaking are so perfectly inoffensive – almost sterile, which is a good thing – especially on a small stage! If you as an audience member are subjected to the onstage nudity it better be performed by such fit and smooth bodies as belong to the abovementioned young actors.

Very appropriate costumes and props for the play were created by Maxx Kurzunski, scenic design by Sarah Phykitt, lighting design by Dena Burd, original composition by Liz Ryder, fight choreography by Jon Bailey. Stage manager Colin Johnson.

The Theatre issues Nudity and Language Alert for The Play About the Baby which is intended for adult audiences. The show runs through October 14. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday at 8:00 p.m.; Sunday at 7:00 p.m. at the Gough Street Playhouse, 1620 Gough Street in San Francisco.

Additional information at: www.custommade.org/the-baby.

Napa Winery Inn: Spend the Night in Napa, You Won’t Regret It

2012-09-30T08:05:00.003-07:00

By Alex Krasov, staff writer

Photography by Jason Ortego

The town of Napa in California’s Napa Valley used to be a small, sleepy outpost. It was a place most people drove by on the way to the wineries, rarely stopping in. But times have changed – and between the region’s world-famous wines, Michelin-adorned restaurants, and luxurious accommodations, it’s become a posh tourist attraction (with prices to match).

And that’s why the newly renovated and reopened Napa Winery Inn is such a gem. It offers an affordable rate, clean and comfortable rooms, and the perks of a much pricier hotel – all in the center of Napa Valley. Instead of coming up only for the day and missing half the point of a wine country visit, why not make it a weekend?

Come up on a Saturday after brunch (since you’ll have the whole weekend, there’s no need to rush out the door first thing in the morning), check in to your cozy room at the Napa Winery Inn, and take a dip in the sparkling (heated!) outdoor pool. You can pick up a late lunch and stop by a few wineries. The weather is perfect for an easy, pre-dinner stroll around town or the winery grounds – and because the Napa Winery Inn is extremely pet-friendly, you can bring your beloved four-legged companion along for the walk.

For dinner, the options are endless. The famed French Laundry is a mere 10-minute drive from the Inn, as is the Oxbow Public Market, where you can pick up a plate of tacos to-go and enjoy your favorite bottle from the day in your room (each one comes equipped with a wine key). And there’s no better way to end the night than to climb inside the Inn’s outdoor hot tub and relax under the bubbles and the stars.

The beauty of an overnight stay is that the next day is all yours, too. The Napa Winery Inn includes a complimentary breakfast so you can start the day right from the hotel. Take a rejuvenating morning swim, and then, if you’re still hungry, pick up coffee and delectable pastries at the Bouchon Bakery in Yountville. Or head into Napa for Sunday brunch – everything is mere minutes by car from the Inn.

On the way back, stop by a few more wineries and grab a bottle for dinner at home. At your favorite winery, find a spot on the deck and sip from your glass there, soaking in the sun. This is how wine country should feel – slow, relaxed, every moment hanging in the air until you’ve had your fill of it. And each one better than the last. Isn’t it nice to sit here – with a full stomach and a fuller heart – and to know you’re not rushing anywhere? For more information, call 1-800-522-8999 or visit www.napawineryinn.com.

Hawk’s Tavern Mill Valley Far From Run of the Mill

2012-09-30T07:54:00.000-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

There are at least two reasons to dine at Hawk’s Tavern in Mill Valley, California, even if you have to take a drive for that. First is the wine list. Compiled by the Sommelier/General Manger Chris Lamm, it is seriously comprehensive and significantly value-priced. Suffice it to say that Sine Qua Non Grenache is there, as well as Dunn cabs of different vintages, and a pinot noir list includes Beaux Freres, Penner-Ash, Femme Fatale by Clouds Rest, Freeman, and other sought after labels.

Two iconic California wineries that defeated the French once and for all in the historic Parisian blind tasting back in the 1970s – Stags Leap and Chateau Montelena – grace the bottle selection, while Sequana pinot, Seghesio zin, and Fisticuffs cab are available by the glass along with Roederer brut rose, Walter Hansel char, Long Meadow Ranch sauv blanc – and the list goes on...

The second reason to dine at Hawk’s Tavern is the new chef, Safir Rezzoug and his new menu, featuring “international classics” cuisine. Chef Safir, recently arriving from Paris, used to work with Alain Ducasse among other masters of the trade. Now he brings his Michelin-star experience to the Northern California town, where he pursues the neighborhood restaurant’s commitment to serving seasonally inspired offerings prepared using locally sourced, sustainable, and organic ingredients.

On the night we dined, our meal started with a glass of Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA and the Tavern’s traditional complimentary appetizer of a warm soft pretzel and whole-grain mustard on a side. The beer list is also brimming with rare and excellent choices. Hawk’s Tavern is the first and only restaurant in Mill Valley to offer an artisan selection of cask ale beer with a new brew tapped weekly. It has eight locally crafted lagers and ales on tap and twelve available in bottles and cans.

We tried two new dishes prepared by the Chef from the updated menu that moved from a small plate format to a full meal with starters and entrées.

Our traditional Spanish paella was comprised of saffron rice, chicken meat, chorizo, clams, mussels, shrimp, and topped with basil micro greens.

The short rib plate contained the most succulent smoked baby rib meat with crispy skin, smothered with tangy balsamic reduction sauce and garnished with lightly caramelized apples that maintained their wonderful color and texture, and crushed red-skinned potatoes deemed irresistible by truffle oil.

Hawk’s Tavern’s ambience is stylishly rustic with reclaimed barn wood walls, a fireplace, mid-century brushed brass lamps, and vintage Western art on the walls. The main dining room seats 45, and the heated front porch 35. The restaurant recently introduced weekend brunch service (Saturday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.) and Happy Hour (Monday through Friday, 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.).

Hawk’s Tavern is located at 507 Miller Avenue, Mill Valley, California. Dinner is served nightly until 10:00 p.m. with weekday lunch and weekend brunch beginning at 11:30 a.m. daily. For more information or reservations call (415) 388-3474 or visit www.HawksTavern.com.

Davis, Yolo County is Not Just UC Davis

2012-09-29T00:18:00.005-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

The city of Davis is first and foremost known for its University of California campus. Future winemakers, micro brewers, sustainable crops growers and humane husbandry proponents are studying here, making their family members proud. Also – giving them a reason to visit often. My first visit to Yolo County made me realize that there were many wonderful things this flowering fertile land had to offer, and not just in terms of agricultural bounty.

Farm-to-table restaurants, intriguing wineries, excellent art galleries and festivals, crafty gift shops, a year-round farmers market, and even a state-of-the-art bicycle museum make a weekend trip to Davis well-worth a ride from the San Francisco Bay Area.

Here is my modest account of what can be accomplished in one weekend in multifaceted YOLO, which some fans prefer to see as an abbreviation of “You Only Live Once.” And if you live in California, there is no excuse to miss out on this experience – rich, inspiring, and one of a kind.

Staying at Hallmark Inn in Davis means that you are in the very center of the city, a walking distance from everything. On the night my husband and I checked in and checked out the swimming pool and the hotel lounge featuring mildly hoppy, crisp and clean Aggie Lager produced by the UC Davis students, we went for dinner to the Seasons Restaurant on the premises.

Crisp refreshing Albarino from the local winemaker Route 3 Wines was nicely paired with baby spinach and strawberry salad made with walnuts, dates, goat cheese, and dressed with honey and balsamic vinaigrette. I also liked my thick smoked bone-in pork chop with velvety Route 3 Grenache.

Since it was the second Friday of the month, right after dinner we followed the route of Second Friday ArtAbout, an evening of art viewing and artist receptions at galleries and businesses coordinated by the Davis Downtown Business Association.

A four-story building of John Natsoulas Gallery is chockfull of amazing contemporary art pieces – ceramics, photography, paintings and drawings – many created by the UC Davis students. On every corner of the safe walkable downtown there is a sculpture by a young local artist, and regularly happening art events bring out more and more talent.

On Saturday morning, we visited the overflowing with fresh produce Davis Farmers Market. It’s an amazing institution that puts together an array of entertainment events, like annual Fall Festival, Pig Out (in celebration of the National Pig Day), various Cookbook Days, and seasonal weekly Picnic in the Park with live music concerts.

Next to the market, there is U.S. Bicycling Hall of Fame, occupying 8,000 sq. ft and containing the most exciting bicycle models from the first three-wheelers to the latest world record breakers.

Our further exploration of Yolo County outside the city of Davis started with a short visit to Woodland known for its many well-preserved examples of the Victorian architecture.

It’s also home to Heidrick Ag History Center and Hays Antique Truck Museum with the most comprehensive collection of agricultural machinery used in the area since the time of its farming pioneers.

After a light lunch of classic pulled pork sliders with house made barbeque sauce and coleslaw at Mojo’s Kitchen 428, we left Woodland for Esparto.

Here, we took part in the Second Saturday Farm Tour at the Capay Organic Farm known to the San Francisco dwellers through its home delivery service, Farm Fresh to You.

The monthly event included tractor tram tour of the peach and pistachio groves, live music, a market stand, a petting zoo, and gathering sweet pea blossom bouquets in the colorful field.

In Brooks we visited the brand new Seka Hills olive crush facility and tasted organic oil from Arbequina olives produced by the agricultural holdings of the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation based in the Capay Valley. The oil won a gold award at the 2012 Olive Oil Competition from the California Olive Council. The tribe also produces wine from its own grapes, and operates the Cache Creek Casino Resort.

From the tribal art-decorated Yocha Dehe Golf Club at the resort we observed the green-and-gold patchwork of the surrounding valleys framed by the blue mountain ridges.

Then we drove to the small picturesque Winters, where at the city park local artists and vintners were presenting the fruit of their labor to the public as part of the Roots to Wine Art in the Park festival. The festival was well attended by the weekender crowd that spilled onto the main drag, next to the park, studded with wineries, restaurants, and boutique shops.

At the artfully decorated tasting room of Turkovich Family Wines we sampled the nuanced GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) and barrel select Tempranillo paired with the Winters Cheese Company cheeses.

For dinner, we stopped at Putah Creek Café, attracted by the sight of a pizza chef pulling hot pies out of a sidewalk clay oven.

We realized that we came to the right place as soon as we tried Horseshoe Chardonnay from the local Berryessa Gap Winery paired with a house special warm goat cheese salad made with lightly breaded and fried Sierra Nevada cheese and lots of fresh arugula, spinach and berries.

Across the street, at Root Stock Specialty Gifts and Tasting Room we indulged in wine-and-truffle pairings as well as in some gift shopping before heading back to our hotel for the night.

Our Sunday started with a farm-fresh breakfast at Monticello Seasonal Cuisine in Davis, a supporter of the Slow Food Movement. All produce comes to the restaurant’s kitchen from Yolo County vendors, so spinach, asparagus or broccoli grace your omelet depending on the morning supplies.

On our way back to San Francisco we headed toward the Sacramento River Delta into historic Clarksburg to visit the Old Sugar Mill, a local landmark built in 1934, and currently home to six tasting rooms serving eight wineries. Another weekend festival, called Wine, Berries, and Chocolate was happening there.

We had to stay and taste some more of Clarksburg Wine Company excellent Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

Driving home I caught myself regretting that we didn’t have a family member who would be studying at UC Davis and whom we’d have to visit almost every weekend. On the second thought, nothing precludes us from traveling to Yolo County as often as we wish. YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE!

Additional information at: www.yolocvb.org.

Going Basque with Chef Hirigoyen and Loving It, or Ten Years of Piperade

2012-09-26T18:08:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov

A series of serendipitous events preceded my participation in the 10^th Anniversary luncheon at Piperade – chef/owner Gerald Hirigoyen’s outstanding Basque restaurant in San Francisco.

Back in the 1990s, when we still lived in Chicago, on our first visit to the City by the Bay my dear husband took me to the “best French restaurant in town” recommended by a knowledgeable friend – and that was Fringale. I still remember the creamiest sauterne-pouched foie gras and the tender pan-fried skate wing served on a bed of piperade – tomato, bell pepper, and onion sauce.

Inspired, I bought a book, “Bistro, The Best of Casual French Cooking” written by the then Fringale chef, Gerald Hirigoyen.

With various degrees of success I attempted to recreate at home the majority of Bistro book recipes from relatively easy onion pie to complex cassoulet with meticulously fat-preserved duck confit.

Sautéed figs with roasted almonds and crème mousseline became my top dessert for entertaining, and whenever my teenage daughter wanted to get on my good side, she would present me with a lemon tart from the book.

Ten years ago, after we have just moved to San Francisco, my husband offered to take our family to Fringale for my birthday, to which I gladly agreed. On our way to the restaurant, I noticed that we were going in the wrong direction – along Embarcadero instead of heading to the inner SoMa location. By the entrance to a new chic eatery my daughter shouted, “Surprise!” and disclosed the reason for the change of venue – my favorite chef was now the owner of a new restaurant, Piperade, and that’s where they were taking me for a lavish dinner of Basque specialties. We had a feast of seafood, cheeses, and stews. People from the neighboring tables were admiring our food and asking what we’ve ordered.

At the end of our meal, I pulled out my tattered, Burgundy, mustard, and crème fraiche-stained Bistro book, and asked the Chef to autograph it for me. He wrote on the front page, “To Emma. Bon Appetit. Gerald.”

Now, ten years since its opening, Piperade is still collecting accolades from San Francisco dwellers and visitors alike. To celebrate the occasion, Chef Hirigoyen opened a brand new event space, adjacent to Piperade and named Lauburu after the Basque cross which symbolizes spirit and life.

This 1,000 square foot space, perfect for private dining, corporate banquets, family celebrations and industry/public events, like winemakers dinners, became the scene for the 10th Anniversary Luncheon, for which the Chef prepared a special menu of his acclaimed creations.

An array of appetizers included absolutely decadent calamari “A la Plancha” lightly grilled with fennel, olives, capers, lemon, and coriander; bright-red piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese, pistachios, and golden raisins; Chef’s signature terrine of Basque sheep’s milk cheese, ham, and sherry; and a festive plate of seasonal figs with haricots vert and walnuts. Basque wine Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina, Gipuzkoa 2009 accompanied the starters.

Chef’s favorite, whole sea bass, prepared with fried garlic vinaigrette, came second, garnished with squash and mushrooms, and complimented by Allende, Viura, Rioja 2008.

Then the most succulent rack of lamb made its appearance with intriguing sides of merguez sausage, roasted fennel, fingerling potatoes and cumin-date relish, paired with Herri Mina, Cabernet Franc, Trouleguy 2007.

An old Basque version of Grenache – Arrels de Clos Pissarra, Garnatxa, Clos Oblidat, Montsant 2006 accompanied a plate of the Pyrenees cheeses.

Finally, a lavish dessert tray presented the signature orange blossom beignets, milk chocolate and hazelnut “Biarritz Rocher” creamy round tarts, and sumptuous gateau Basque with cherry preserve, all perfectly matched with the sweet Clos Uroulat, Jurancon 2009 with subtle residual sugar.

The ambience of Lauburu with reclaimed wood decor, exposed brick, a glass-fronted wall mounted wine display, wood beam ceiling with track lighting, a decorative mirror, and wood panel flooring is simultaneously elegant and bohemian – intimate and inviting. A patio access offers some cityscape views.

Lauburu is located at 1015 Battery Street, San Francisco, and is available for private functions by advance reservation. Piperade, at the same address, is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m. For more information and reservations call (415) 391-2555 or visit www.piperade.com .

If it’s My Way, It’s Shabuway

2012-09-25T22:11:00.001-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Since I discovered a newly opened Shabuway – Japanese hot pot dining experience in San Francisco – every time someone is musing about where to go for a casual relaxing dinner shared with friends, my hand jumps up without hesitation, “I know! Shabuway!”

I love everything about this place – the minimalist classy décor based on red, white, and black of Japanese lacquers and calligraphy; the exceedingly attentive service – efficient and friendly in a calm unhurried way. Most importantly – the shabu-shabu “fast” food concept, based on self-reliance and sharing, with a bubbling hot pot in the middle of the table and platefuls of aged meats and fresh vegetables to be dipped in boiling broth and consumed in a circle of people with whom you want to spend this quality time on a foggy San-Francisco night.

To myself, I pronounce shabu-shabu as “shove-shove,” because it really means a quick movement with which you should dip your very thinly-sliced meat into the hot broth, and then pull it out before it gets overcooked. However, since you and your chopsticks rule the game, make it from medium-rare to well-done any way you want. To get the juiciest tender pliable slice of pork, beef, or lamb, swish it around the pot for a few seconds, and enjoy.

The meats at Shabuway are all purchased in pallets from top producers like Niman Ranch, and are aged, trimmed, frozen at extremely low temperatures, and sliced at the in-house refrigeration facilities. Diners choose Prime Angus, American Kobe beef, American Kobe Lean beef, Niman Ranch lamb, Berkshire Kurobuta pork, or a combination of the above from the menu.

The broth for the hot pot comes in two varieties – traditional seaweed or newly-invented spicy miso – or both – in the same pot with a median divider. Side orders include udon or ramen noodles, tofu, and vegetables, like Napa cabbage, bok choy, spinach, asparagus, broccoli, kabocha squash, carrots, and enoki and shimeji mushrooms.

Although both seaweed and spicy miso broths lend subtle flavors to the meat and vegetables, no shabu-shabu bite should go without a dipping sauce, and the restaurant provides two – Ponzu (citrus and soy) aged with dried shiitake mushrooms, bonito flakes, and kelp seaweed, and Gomadare (sesame) blended with 17 other herbs and spices. The sauces and the condiments of chopped green onion, garlic, and chili paste with grated daikon enhance the taste of the meats to ultimate umami.

There are currently five other Bay Area Shabuway locations, in San Jose, San Mateo, Mountain View, Union City and Santa Clara – a great testament to the success of the proprietor Eiichi Mochizuki, a native of Japan.

The restaurant serves hot and cold sake, beer, and soft drinks, and offers kid's menu.

Shabuway in San Francisco is located at 5120 Geary Boulevard. Open Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:00 p.m., on Saturday from 12:00 noon to 10:00 p.m. and on Sunday from 12:00 noon to 9:00 p.m. Call (415) 668-6080 or visit www.shabuway.com.

Elegant Shanghai Dining in San Francisco

2012-09-25T20:16:00.003-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Dark wood panels, sleek granite counter top around the open bar, elegant dining room furniture, crystal fixtures and red velvet curtains in the lounge area put recently opened Shanghai restaurant in San Francisco a notch above the many casual eateries of the hip Mission Dolores neighborhood.

The obvious sophistication of the place doesn’t stop with the décor. Shanghai menu, conceived by the proprietor Francis Tsai, a native of Shanghai, and the executive chef Leo Gan, who worked as the opening chef for Shanghai 1930, is brimming with Chinese delicacies equally intriguing in a variety of tastes and presentations.

An appetizer combination of our six-course tasting menu for two came on a large rectangular plate with smaller square bowls containing bites of traditionally offered fish, tofu, veggie, and meat surrounding the Blasting Prawn cocktail – with prawns grilled in mild honey nectar. The fish was a sweet-tasting sole filet smoked in oolong tea. The tofu was called Vegetarian Duck, and tasted just like a roasted crackling skin of a soy-sauce duck. The veggie came as a crispy hot and sour cabbage, and the meat was presented by Drunken Chicken simmered in Shaoxing wine. Lemongrass Hopper cocktail, one of many created by the beverage director Michael Petri, seemed a great match for the flavor-forward appetizers, and was made with vodka, mango, Midori, lemon, soda, and lemongrass.

Our second course was my favorite Xiao Long Bao, a.k.a. Shanghai soup dumplings. They are very delicate, filled with pork and broth, and should be sprinkled with Shanghai black vinegar to reveal their ultimate comforting effect. These dumplings I eat with a spoon, making a little bite at the top first, so no delicious broth would escape from the steamed dough purse.

For the third course, we had Fish Broth – a dense gelatinous soup of julienned white fish with sweet flesh mixed in with slightly beaten egg white. Another comforting dish for a chilly San-Francisco evening!

The fourth course of the tasting menu was actually three courses. Chicken Flambé – with cubes of white breast meat braised in sweet vinegar sauce. Whole red and green grapes, chunks of pineapple, strawberries and kiwi graced this very special take on sweet and sour chicken.

Fish on the Vine –a deep fried fish fillet with a red wine reduction. This one came decorated with a real vine with shiny green leaves.

Napa Cabbage – a small head of cabbage braised in a real cream sauce and sprinkled with bacon crumble. Warm and satisfying, this dish made a great addition to protein-filled plates of more “serious” players.

The fifth course was poetically called, Two Colden Faces, and presented a nest of crispy noodles over prawns, mushrooms, and three-color bell peppers in light sweet sauce.

Our sixth course was rather simple – a plate of sweetened pan-fried sticky rice with dried berries and a twig of fresh mint, but after a lavish meal we just had at spectacular Shanghai no other dessert would do.

My dessert cocktail, made by the bartender Kent Lisk, was called Anna’s Perfect Pink, and contained gin, hibiscus, pisco, coconut, lemon, goji liquor, and orange flower water. I could’ve easily called it, Emma’s perfect pink!

Manager Stephen Lee, present all throughout the night when we dined, took care of all the patrons in the dining room, making sure the service was on par with the ambience and the food at Shanghai. As can be expected of the restaurant of this level, Shanghai cuisine is prepared with seasonal, locally sourced and mostly organic ingredients.

The full bar at Shanghai, besides classic, contemporary and original cocktails and the international wine list, offers a late night Happy Hour service with bites menu Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30 p.m. to midnight.

Shanghai is located at 2029 Market Street, San Francisco. Dinner is served Tuesday through Sunday from 5:00 to 10:00 p.m., a dim sum brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and a late night small plate menu. A specialty of the house is private dining and special functions with traditional Shanghai dishes. Reservations: (415) 701-8866 or SeatMe.com. More info at: www.shanghai-rest.com.

De Young Gets A Taste for Modernism from Paley Collection

2012-09-21T18:20:00.000-07:00

By Emma Krasov

If we may assume that Picasso saw himself in his Boy Leading a Horse – a solitary figure with no possessions, moving across an arid plane under the blind sky, following a road only known to him, ruling a beautiful beast – it probably won’t be a far stretch to imagine that William S. Paley, who bought the painting on the spot when it was offered to him in a skiing hotel lobby in Switzerland in 1936, also felt a definite affinity toward the subject matter.

In 1905, when the painting was created, Picasso was just entering the Parisian world of modern art, where Henri Matisse’s scandalous fame challenged him, Fernande Olivier’s big heart embraced him, and Gertrude Stein’s friendship supported him, helping him realize that his Blue Period was over, and that the future held plenty of roses for the boy and his art (horse).

Paley, a son of Ukrainian Jewish immigrants, rose to power in America as a broadcasting titan of the 20^th century, the founder of Columbia Broadcasting System (CBS), and made his name known in the world of modern art as a trustee and then chairman of the Board of The Museum of Modern Art, New York.

He donated Picasso’s Boy Leading a Horse to the Museum, as well as many other masterpieces by Henri Matisse, Paul Cezanne, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Edgar Degas, Andre Derain, Paul Gauguin, Pierre Bonnard, and others from his private collection.

Paley’s manner of collecting in the 1930s reflected his individualist spirit and his appreciation for the new art, mostly characterized by irreverent bold colors and brushstrokes, bohemian subject matter, and the prevailing mood of pushing the boundaries of public acceptance.

Characteristically, the affluent collector limited his acquisitions in the 1950s, when the market for modernism became safe, inflated, and overcrowded by late-bloomer fans of previously dubious artists.

It’s a well –documented fact that Paley was first mostly impressed by Cezanne, buying his Self-Portrait in a Straw Hat from the artists’ son, and thus starting the private collection geared toward his personal taste and kept in his primary residence where he could cohabit with the art he loved.

Among the Cezanne paintings from Paley collection, presented at the current de Young exhibition, there is Milk Can and Apples, a still life that reads like a mountainous landscape with descending horizon line, fruit scattered like boulders around the snowy peaks of a crumpled napkin, and wallpaper flowers coming out of their natural environment.

It’s paintings like this – intimate in scale, densely saturated with life (still or otherwise) that made the overall mood of Paley collection so intriguingly pervasive, reaching out to a contemporary viewer with the immediacy of here and now.

Renoir’s Strawberries, Matisse’s Odalisque with a Tambourine, Toulouse-Lautrec’s Mme Lili Grenier, and Manet’s Two Roses on a Tablecloth are just a few of the significant modernist artworks the collector felt so strongly about and kept so close to his heart and sight throughout his life.

Gauguin’s The Seed of the Areoi holds a special place in the exhibition. The painting that has a long and controversial history all its own, reflects the artist’s fascination with the Tahitian landscape that he said “dazzled and blinded” him, as well as with the special beauty of the islander women, the legends of the land and the lifestyle of the tribe the artist believed was informed of a higher truth, or the better world.

If William Paley’s dream world came true in his collection of modern art, all the art lovers in the world benefit from it today, and with the traveling show originated by MOMA, The William S. Paley Collection: A Taste for Modernism is currently reaching the Western frontier at the de Young Museum, San Francisco.

The show runs through December 30 at de Young Museum, Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, San Francisco, California. Call for more information: 415-750-3600 or visit www.deyoungmuseum.org. Images courtesy FAMSF.

Pearls of ‘The Pearl Fishers’ at Opera San José

2012-09-19T18:06:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov

Bizet’s first three-act opera, The Pearl Fishers, was created in time of Western idealization of the far away exotic lands, perceived romantic adventures, and noble sacrifices in lush ornamental environs.

It was also the time of merciless Parisian art critics, supported by the habitually demanding public, hardly ever restrained in delivering their unapologetic verdicts to all kinds of artists.

Criticized in its day, with librettists Michel Carre and Eugene Cormon partially taking the blame, The Pearl Fishers continuously charms today’s audiences by maintaining its musical brilliance and its innocent fascination with the beauty and drama of pure theatricality.

Picked by the Opera San José for the opening of its 29th season, the popular piece appears fresh and full of sparkle in its fourth staging in the last two decades is a suitably-lavish décor of the California Theatre.

Love vs. vows, rivalry vs. friendship, and merci vs. mob mentality play out along the highs and lows of moral choices faced by the onstage community of Ceylon pearl fishers, never seizing to excite and entertain the public throughout the compact, thematically saturated Bizet’s masterpiece.

Joining the resident company of principal artists this season is Cecilia Violetta Lopez, who performs the lead part of Leila on selected days, with her crystal-sounding soprano of effortlessly delivered impressive range, and significant dramatic talent.

Principals Alexander Boyer as Nadir, Evan Brummel as Zurga, and Silas Elash as Nourabad create an exceptionally harmonious ensemble, seamlessly supported by the Opera San José chorus and dancers.

Conducted by Anthony Quartuccio, with stage direction by Richard Harrell, choreography by Lise La Cour, set design by Charlie Smith, costume design by Elizabeth Poindexter, lighting design by Pamila Gray, and wig/makeup design by Jeanna Parham, The Pearl Fishers looks like a perfect season’s opening, and a promise of other wonderful things to come.

The opera is sung in French with English supertitles and runs through September 23 at the California Theatre, 345 South First Street in downtown San José. Tickets at the Opera San José Box Office, by phone at (408) 437-4450 or online at www.operasj.org.

Rewarding Experiences at InterContinental

2012-09-17T18:05:00.002-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov

The Great InterContinental Hotels and Resorts, the largest luxury hotel chain in the world, initiated a simultaneous “Lunch is Never Pointless” event in 20 of its properties across North America earlier this month. The special luncheon introduced a new Meetings Multiplier system of gaining reward points for booking meetings in different cities, and announced a five million priority club rewards points giveaway.

InterContinental San Francisco, in the bustling city center – a soaring glass building with 43 000 sq. ft of meeting space, 21 meeting rooms, two ballrooms, three outdoor terraces, banquet facilities, and a recent LEED EBOM Gold certification – became a scene for one of these luncheons, a rewarding experience on its own.

The guests were treated to champagne and Priority Punch in the sunlit hotel lobby, and then the Regional General Manager Peter Koehler introduced a series of new exciting hotel stay developments, among them America’s Cup packages coming next year.

Executive Chef Christophe Depuichaffray created an array of special treats that started with locally harvested seasonal ingredients of the San Francisco Bay Area, like San Juan Bautista heirloom tomato salad with Di Stefano burrata and Niman Ranch beef medallions with King Trumpet mushrooms, scallops, vegetables, and Mission Fig gastrique.

A four course dessert included raspberry gazpacho, green tea crème brulee, strawberry tartlets, and chocolate pralines.

More information at: www.intercontinental.com

Aloft SFO Opens in “Style at a Steal”

2012-09-11T12:13:00.000-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovIntroduced by Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide a few years ago, Aloft brand now has more than 60 properties in the U.S., Canada, U.K., China, India, and other countries around the globe. It continues to gain guest loyalty by means of “style at a steal” with its sleek colorful design and affordability.

Since its inception, Aloft launched several modern-day initiatives: the first keyless check-in program, online talent search “Project Aloft Star,” the industry’s largest live music series, “Live at Aloft Hotels,” and some inventive signature cocktails.All guestrooms are equipped with Aloft’s standard plush platform beds, plug-n-play docking stations and LCD TV, spa showers with rainfall showerheads, and other conveniences for a 21^st century traveler.

The new Starwood strategy implements conversion of existing beneficially-located hotels in need of renovation or re-branding. That was the case with the newly opened Aloft San Francisco Airport in Millbrae, California.

A former Clarion property underwent a significant renovation, and opened as Aloft last week, with a dazzling lobby area furnished with mod sofas, rocking chairs and pillows; a sparkling indoor swimming pool with outdoor rest area and handicapped loading chair; a fully-equipped re:charge gym, a pool table, and 253 beautifully appointed rooms.

The hotel opening party featured a panel of Starwood representatives greeted by the Millbrae mayor, who announced the city government’s decision to celebrate September 5 as Aloft Hotel Day.

Live music, Speakeasy brews, and Aloft’s special cocktails were presented at the party. Lead bartender Jason D. White at w xyz bar shared with me his own recipe of emerald-colored “Sassy” – Beefeater gin, Midori, Lemon juice, and ginger beer – delish!

Aloft’s food service re:fuel treated the guests to mushroom tartlets, turkey sliders with cole slaw, beef sliders with lettuce, and cheese plates – just a preview of the many tasty things offered by the hotel.

In tune with contemporary trends, a couple of neighborhood food trucks were invited to bring in their wonderful wares – The Chairman, serving steamed buns stuffed with pork belly, spicy chicken, pulled pork, or tofu with Asian pickles, and the PacificPuffs, serving chocolate or sugar powder-coated cream puffs. What not to like?

Aloft SFO is located at 401 E. Millbrae Ave., Millbrae, CA. More information at: www.starwoodhotels.com.

Transcendence Theatre Performs at Jack London Site in Sonoma

2012-09-05T12:39:00.001-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Jack London State Historic Park near Glen Ellen, California, was supposed to close down this year due to state budget cuts, but was rescued by the Valley of the Moon Natural History Association (VMNHA) – a nonprofit organization currently managing the venue. Formerly a site of Jack London’s Beauty Ranch, and now a memorial containing original structures built by the author of the world-famous adventure novels, the Park hosted Transcendence Theatre Company (TTC) this summer.

TTC presented a series of open-air performances “Broadway Under the Stars” at the Old Winery Ruins, in partnership with and in support of VMNHA.

Wrapping up the season on September 1 was a gala celebration “One Day More,” sponsored by Benziger Family Winery, with a pre-show picnicking, local wine pouring, and a concert of songs and dances from Broadway musicals.

The full-house show’s highlights included “Ladies Who Lunch” (Leah Sprecher), Tag Team Duets (Leah Sprecher, Stephan Stubbins), “I’m a Woman” (Katie Kerwin, Brooke Tansley, Danielle Truitt, Laurie Wells), “I Love A Film Cliché” (Christopher Youngsman), “Life is Just a Bowl of Cherries” (Danielle Truitt), and a great number of crowd pleasers from “The Sound of Music,” “Gypsy,” “Wicked,” “A Chorus Line,” “Guys and Dolls” and “42^nd Street.”

Met with overwhelming enthusiasm from the audience, “One Day More” turned into a celebration of musical theatre as well as the Jack London Park’s vitality. TTC artistic director Amy Miller announced the company’s intent to continue its “Broadway Under the Stars” seasons in the upcoming years with the help and support from the Sonoma community.

To learn more, visit www.jacklondonpark.com, www.transcendencetheatre.org.

Noble Hops and Subtle Grapes at Press Club San Francisco

2012-09-05T08:59:00.000-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Intriguingly named, Press Club is centrally located in the neighborhood of Yerba Buena Center for the Arts in the beloved city park, palatial San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and Daniel Libeskind’s soaring blue cubes of the Contemporary Jewish Museum.

Surrounded by art venues, this wine bar and lounge is in itself a piece of art from its sleek modern design to its drinks list that reads like Who’s Who in the artisanal wine and beer production.

The men behind the upscale libations are general manager Kristian Cosentino, who is also a resident beer expert, and wine director Mauro Cirilli. The beer expert puts a lot of emphasis on “noble” hops treated like grapes – stored and aged like wines – and on elaborately produced sours that take weeks and months to make. The wine director makes a clear preference for elegant sophisticated varietals that won’t overwhelm the palate but will compliment the food prepared by Taste Catering & Event Planning and served here a la cart as snacks, bites, and plates, or in three- to five-course pairings.

With more than 30 wines by the glass, 100 handpicked bottles from all imaginable winemaking countries and regions, and 30 beers from farmhouse ales to fruit, sour, and spiced masterpieces, the food and drink pairing at Press Club reaches the state of art.

For a charcuterie board of delicacies from Molinari, Fra’ Mani, Fatted Calf and other notable salumi makers, Sierra Nevada “Northern Hemisphere Harvest” Fresh Hop Ale from Chico, and Mikkeller “19” IPA from Denmark seemed equally perfect, or so I thought until I tried the Drakes Brewing Company “Aroma Coma” IPA from San Leandro that smelled like perfume, tasted like heaven, and apparently won every award in the book.

2010 A’Cote’Chardonnay from Santa Barbara was a fine match for Sequatchie Cove Coppinger Arancini with tahini aioli, roasted and pickled mushrooms, and frisee.

Shaved Toybox Squash and Gioia Burrata Pizza paired nicely with both 2010 Pinot Noir Sea Slopes from Fort Ross, Sonoma, and Bellegems “Bruin” Sour/Wild Ale from Belgium.

Other wonderful things not to be missed at Press Club include Blackened Deviled Glaum Ranch Organic Eggs – always tough to pair with a drink, but surprisingly harmonious with sour beers like my favorite Dogfish Head “Black & Blue” Belgian Golden Ale from Delaware, and Brouwerij Bocker “Cuvee Des Jacobins Rouge” Flemish Sour Ale from Belgium.

House Pitman Farms Duck and Pinot Noir Sausage with a quinoa fritter, roasted peach, and pickled cherry duck jus finds a good match in 2009 Pinot Noir Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara.

The Marin Sun Farms Lamb Sliders on Cumin Focaccini Rolls are spiced with house made harissa aioli and cooled with cucumber carrot slaw.

For a sweet finale, house made petit fours du jour can include dark chocolate confections, a shortbread cookie, panna cotta, and pate de fruit – all wonderfully complimented by 2009 Rancho de Oro Puro (late harvest Semillon and sauvignon blanc) from Oro Puro Vineyards in Napa Valley – as precious as pure gold, indeed.

My visit to Press Club happened to be on a blue moon night – the second full moon in the same month – and the view of the night sky over the wine club was gorgeous, but I surely plan to visit more often than once in a blue moon.

These days, Press Club is turning 4! The public is invited to celebrate on Monday, September 10 from 4 p.m. until close with $4 glasses of Prosecco and $4 glasses of Dogfish Head '120 Minute' IPA.

Also in September: Press Club is adding Visiting Brewers series to its already popular Visiting Vintner series. Jesse Friedman of San Francisco’s Almanac Beer Co. will be on the premises on Friday, September 21 from 5 to 9 p.m. Selecting the best locally sourced fruit and blending it into beers inspired by the great brewing traditions of the world, Almanac is produces seasonal artisan ales.

On Thursday, September 27th from 6-9 p.m., Visiting Vintner Seth Kunin of Kunin Wines will personally pour his wines for Press Club guests and share the stories behind them. Kunin Wines was founded in 1998, and has grown its production to 5,800 cases. The boutique producer of premium wines purchases grapes from the finest vineyards of the Central Coast region of California. Varietals include Syrah, Zinfandel, Viognier and blends of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah.

Press Club is located at 20 Yerba Buena Lane between Market and Mission Streets. Open to the public Monday to Thursday 4-10 p.m., Friday 4 p.m. till close and Saturday from 2 p.m. till close. Closed on Sundays. Free wi-fi access. Call 415.744.5000 or visit: www.PressClubSF.com.

Making it Through the Mud in Calistoga, Sarafornia

2012-08-25T05:28:00.002-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

So, pigs like mud because it massages their skin and makes them feel good… How about them humans?

I have to admit, I was not up to that muddy business everyone was raving about. When it comes to any kind of dirt touching moi or anything I’m wearing I’m out of there. It might be slightly pathological, but “squeamish” doesn’t cut it.

It took me a lot of nerve and natural curiosity to finally try the world-famous mud bathes in Calistoga. And, I had to do it in two steps – from a water-drawn thin mud looking like diluted black ink to the thick blanket of pure muck – the kind you get stuck in somewhere in the back roads of Russia at the end of a rainy season.

Surprisingly, I enjoyed both.

What brought me to Calistoga were its distinct AVA wines and its unique for a Napa Valley town character. Despite being part of the ultimate tourist destination – California Wine Country – Calistoga remains a charming hideaway, less crowded, less commercialized, and more open to leisurely pursuits of honeymooners, romantic couples of all ages, and other deserving vacationers.

A historical anecdote relays how the geyser town in the foothills of Mount St. Helena got its name. An early settler and founder of Calistoga, Samuel Brannan, wanted to make it a “Saratoga of California” in honor of the hot springs resort in New York, but for some reason mispronounced his words, and announced “Calistoga of Sarafornia” to the world instead.

Sure enough, a century and a half later, the founding eccentric’s presence is widely felt in the town.

Spacious Brannan’s restaurant on the main drag occupies a corner building with large windows. Inside, atmospheric and richly decorated bar and dinner hall serve classic cocktails, steak house staples, and excellent local wines, like Brian Arden Syrah from Masked Man Vineyard and Cultivar cabernet sauvignon – both produced in Napa Valley.

My Berkshire-Duroc pork chop was served with mustard greens, cannellini beans, and grain mustard jus, and was predictably good.

My husband’s braised lamb shank with roasted garlic infused polenta and sautéed Swiss chard was fork tender and flavorful, so I had to have some of that, too.

For the night, we settled in a charming little cottage with all imaginable conveniences belonging to Hideaway Cottages – a sister property of the popular Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort. I found out that our lodging was named very appropriately. Hidden among the trees on a side street there was a real hideaway beyond the gate – a shaded alley lined with secluded white-walled cottages, each with a little garden in front of it. A sparkling swimming pool and a hot tub were kid-free and therefore endlessly appealing for us and other weekender guests – mostly couples.

All the cottages are named after beautiful cities of the world – Vienna, Paris, Berlin, and even Erevan – the capital of Armenia, and Kiev – the capital of Ukraine.

Our home for the night had a cozy fully equipped kitchen with a breakfast nook, a family room with a big-screen TV, and the most luxurious bedroom with a plush bed.

The hotel also provides continental breakfast of coffee, fresh baked pastry and fruit.

After breakfast we were enjoying the mineral water pool on premises, and that could count as exercise. We used the excuse to head to town for brunch.

Café Sarafornia, named after Sam Brannan’s notorious line, has it written on the wall of its boisterous dining room. It also has a line out the door, waiting to be seated, but the food is worth the wait.

The oldest continuously run restaurant in the Napa Valley, Café Sarafornia serves lavish breakfasts all day long.

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My smoked salmon plate contained a good chunk of lox with capers, sour cream, and fluffy potato pancakes baked with red and green bell peppers.

My husband, who likes his morning meal on a sweet side, indulged in cheese and apple blintzes with blueberry compote.

Calistoga, which has always been the major resort area, is known for its historic hotels.
Mount View Hotel & Spa maintains its century-old appeal, but attracts visitors with fully redecorated fresh modern looks and a secluded spa area with a heated outdoor pool.

The hotel offers a number of room and treatment packages for romantic couples, and a list of specials for the area attractions. Friday nights at Mount View luxurious lounge are wine tasting nights that sometimes turn into movie nights on a large screen TV.

At the Mount View Spa, my bathtub was filled with water-based natural mud packed with plant extracts, minerals and vitamins. It seemed non-threatening enough to enjoy it by the candle light until it was time for my massage and then unlimited swim in the sunny pool. That was quite a relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon!

Next, I explored the local wineries conveniently located in downtown Calistoga.

August Briggs is a very small producer making 13-15 different wines each year, with only five of them going into retail. Most wines come from a single vineyard in Napa or Sonoma, and four – from a vineyard in Calistoga. Obviously, the best way to try August Briggs wines, embellished with a gold dandelion logo, is to come to the testing room or join the wine club.

I tasted 2009 Russian River Valley Chardonnay – golden, buttery, and toasty, with aromas of citrus, caramel, and pear, and flavors of ripe melon, apricot, and sweet cream – only 201 cases produced, and 2012 Leveroni Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay with great minerality – 193 cases.

Then there were some excellent pinots of Dijon Clones with their purity of fruit and complexity of aromas, and then Napa Valley Syrah and Petite Sirah with intense colors and distinctive flavors.

2009 Dry Creek Valley “Two Moon Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon impressed me the most with its layers of intense tastes from black currant to plum and dark chocolate.

Before heading for Vermeil Wines/OnThEdge Winery – the legendary local institution, I stopped at the equally legendary art gallery called Ca’Toga, solely dedicated to the multi-media art of Carlo Marchiori. Drawings, watercolors, acrylics, ceramics, bronze sculptures and murals overwhelm the gallery floor, walls, and its vaulted ceiling, creating a full-immersion experience in the midst of whimsical imagery delivered with high technical execution.

I could’ve spent a couple of hours at the gallery studying its many wonders, but I decided to plan another visit that would include a Ca’Toga Villa Tour of the artist’s residence filled with Roman ruins, statues, fountains, and trompe l’oeil frescoes.

Vermeil Wines was conceived by Dick Vermeil, Super Bowl winner and two-time NFL Coach of the Year, while winemaker Paul Smith founded the OnThEdge Winery.

The paraphernalia-filled testing room reflects both personalities and offers a full line of critically-acclaimed wines.

I was lucky to meet here MarySue Frediani – a winery partner, a third-generation representative of a well-known wine growing family, and a walking encyclopedia of all things Calistoga.

Following MarySue’s expert advice, I tasted the most enticing and well-rounded collection of wines – each better than the next one, marked by so much love and attention to detail that after visiting the Vermeil Wines/OnThEdge tasting room I had a feeling of achieved perfection.

I thoroughly tasted the barrel-fermented 2011 Vermeil Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley with a little Semillon in it; 2010 Dry Semillon from Luvisi Vineyard in Calistoga; 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon rose; and especially 2008 OnThEdge Charbono – a rare grape from a vineyard on the edge of Napa-Sonoma. Apparently, there are only 93 acres in all of North America that grow Charbono, and the Frediani family owns 10 of them.

Other amazing wines I tried included OnThEdge 2006 Nonna’s Secret red wine blend; 2010 zinfandel ”1956 Block” from Frediani Vineyard; 2005 Library Selection Syrah, also from Frediani Vineyard, and 2007 Cabernet Franc – 96%, with only 4% cab sauv, tasting like black cherries dipped in chocolate.

Late harvest 2008 Frediani 1956 zin and 2009 late harvest Semillon with a taste of lychee fruit were sweet, but not sticky and gooey – just perfect, same as everything else in this amazing place.

By the late afternoon I was totally in love with the city of Calistoga and ready for the ultimate mud experience – the real stuff at the Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort.

Baths at Roman Spa offer the authentic Calistoga adventure – massage, mud and mineral baths – a local tradition of over 100 years. The thick black mud, silky to the touch, consists of the volcanic ash, natural peat, and geothermal mineral water.

Sliding into the bathtub, filled with mother-dirt, I felt like a summer worm in a ripe plum – or what I imagine the worm must feel like surrounded by the sweet softness of the fruit. I felt warm, weightless, fully relaxed, and happy. Ancient Romans were known for inventing all kinds of indulgencies, including Terme, or thermal bath resorts more than 3000 years ago, and Roman Spa in Calistoga provides this kind of restorative and nourishing indulgence for its patrons today.

Additional information at: www.calistogavisitors.com

Little White Lies Are All About the Truth

2012-08-21T17:51:00.000-07:00

By Emma Krasov

The usual French film premise – a group of 30-something friends divided into couples, ex-couples, couples on a verge of a break up, and surfacing love triangles – is the first obvious thing in Little White Lies by Guillaume Canet, presented by MPI Pictures. The second obvious thing about this movie is the heavy use of rock and jazz hit songs intended to illustrate every character’s inner struggle, or a conflict between two characters. The classic songs for some reason come from a previous generations’ fan book – Nina Simone, The Isley Brothers, Janis Joplin, David Bowie, Creedence Clearwater Revival…

The not so obvious thing in this film is that most of the characters are hard to identify with, since in the first hour or so we learn very little about the majority of them. When we do learn more, it seems sometimes hard to believe. Can a young, good looking, kind, smart and successful doctor fall for a grumpy, arrogant, slightly educated B&B owner past his prime? Can a normal-looking man pursue a rather homely woman to a degree under which he turns into a needy lovesick teenager occupied only with her text messages and decidedly nothing else in his life? Can a night club junky be a center of everyone’s love and devotion? There might be more to any of these characters, but we still don’t know it from their actions and dialogs that rotate around summer vacation activities and petty squabbles.

While for the best part of the film nothing is happening besides trivial things like going on vacation in a group, settling at the B&B, eating, drinking, boating, etc. etc., eventually the plot thickens and brings up some drama and a hint at complex relationships within the group. As always, Paris and the beaches of, presumably, Provence, play a role equal to that of the acting ensemble. Some very distinguished actors’ presence surely helps – like Marion Cotillard, Francois Cluzet (both on photo), Benoit Magimel, and Jean Dujardin. Little White Lies premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival and won the Cesar Award for Best Director (G. Canet). The film opens on August 31 at Landmark Theater in San Francisco, Shattuck in Berkeley, and Rafael Film Center in San Rafael, California.

French Cuisine, Russian Art, and International Music Spell Good Life at Bon Vivant Café

2012-08-21T16:51:00.005-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Palo Alto, California, is known internationally for the city’s cultural and historical traditions, Stanford University, always sunny weather, and upscale restaurants catering to the Silicon Valley crowd.

A recent addition to the restaurant scene is Bon Vivant Café on a quiet side street right off University Avenue.

Bistro-style marble tables with blue glasses on them line the outer wall of the café, while stepping inside it is easy to imagine being in a Parisian restaurant. Spherical crystal chandeliers, old silver, freshly cut gardenias and potted orchids compliment the white table cloth establishment that is also an art gallery and a music hall with a grand piano in a corner of the spacious dining room.

Music-themed artworks by a Moscow painter Andrey Anisimov cover the walls, and on weekends the diners are treated to classical music, jazz, or rock and blues performances by famous musicians from different countries.

Bon Vivant Café’s kitchen is headed by Brandon Paige, an experienced chef with Aqua (San Francisco) and MK (Chicago) stints under his belt.

On the night we dined, our exquisite meal started with a glass of Provencal rose, Whispering Angel, and airy cheese puffs, gougers, served in a red enamel cocotte.

A bowl of chilled melon soup with charred prawn, basil seed, and tarragon float came next. The velvety sweetness of pureed cantaloupe was balanced out by the fleshy seafood and minty flavors of herbs and spices. This soup alone could be well worth a visit to Bon Vivant, however, since all produce comes from the local farmers market, the house specials change with the season.

Charcuterie board, suggested by our attentive server, included silky duck liver mousse, tender rabbit rilette, salami, stone ground mustard, and cornichons.

Black kale salad had a wonderfully chewy texture and was garnished with savory parmesan vinaigrette and lemony croutons.

Although it was hard to imagine the baby beet salad ingredients on the same plate, they worked splendidly together as a testament to Bon Vivant’s creativity and the popularity of its original recipes created in house. Cooked red and orange beets were served with marinated plums, cottage cheese, granola, and arugula, combining all tastes and textures imaginable.

There is also a smoked trout salad – a very satisfying dish that uses excellent house cured fish, boiled heirloom potatoes, crispy shallots and citrus crème – delish!

Roasted sweetbreads en papillote came as a star of the starters menu. This is a very French dish that requires a lot of prep work, but done right can outshine anything else.

Bon Vivant’s sweetbreads were probably the best I’ve ever tried – both in America and in France.

For the main course, my dining companion chose an intriguing sounding roasted wild boar, prepared to chef’s specifications. That turned out to be a medium-well lean gamey loin, its texture enhanced by soft creamy polenta, ratatouille, and olive vinaigrette.

I was in a mood for a more conservative chicken “Grand Mere” with a side of petit carrots, English peas, and in lemon-thyme jus. Its golden-brown goodness did remind me of my grandma’s roasted chicken, but my grandma was an outstanding cook.

Our desserts were crepe Suzette with fresh orange wedges – a twist on a classic dish, only lighter – and rich chocolate pot de crème with shortbread cookies.

Dining in Bon Vivant is a guaranteed pleasure, plus art and entertainment in a good company. No wonder the place is packed for lunch and dinner, and often reserved for private parties, birthdays, and corporate celebrations.

Bon Vivant is located at 535 Bryant St., Palo Alto. Call for reservations 650-485-3228 or visit www.bonvivantcafe.net.

East, West, and Harmony at E & O Asian Kitchen in San Francisco

2012-08-21T15:52:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Redesigned, renovated and renamed, E & O Asian Kitchen in the heart of San Francisco is geared for smooth sailing. Everything in this elegant restaurant seems to contribute to an exceptionally harmonious dining experience.

The restaurant’s ambiance is elegantly dark, with minimalist bamboo-shaped vertical lights backing the bar and yielding just enough luminosity to the candlelit dining area to provide a cozy intimate feel.

Attentive and efficient servers, clad in black, are happy to provide suggestions, but judging from the few items I’ve tried at E & O, you cannot go wrong with anything from the menu. The kitchen, led by Chef Sharon Nahm in collaboration with Arnold Eric Wong, perfected the art of modern Asian cuisine, so every dish here is an inspired little masterpiece.

Starting your meal with the restaurant’s signature cocktails created by lead bartender Carlos Yturria is a no brainer, since there are wonderful libations on offer for every taste.

Simply-sounding Beefeater Gin, sea beans and lime Sea Witch caught my imagination, and it was light, peridot-green and wickedly refreshing – with slim salty crunchy sea beans mocking seaweed in a tidal wave.

East Meets West made with Wild Turkey bourbon, lemongrass and soda, was pale pink, almost beige, and subtly creamy on the palate.

Other notable cocktails include Gazebo made with Hangar vodka, pineapple, basil and lemon, and Concubine with gin, St. Germain, house made orgeat and lime – but hey, a girl can try only so many in one sitting.

The enhanced dinner menu offers scrumptious starters, and among them humble pickle jars. A daily selection of house made pickles should never be overlooked. I tried all four specials of the day, and couldn’t decide which were the best – crunchy rainbow carrots with coriander, chewy shiitake with sea beans, bright yellow lemon cucumbers, or crimson li hing mui mangoes.

Oxtail dumplings from the short but enticing dumplings menu were served with black beans, carrots, and 5-spice nage, and were very hard to share.

Asian "Gnocchi" from the Rice & Noodles menu are short cut on bias rice sticks generously interspersed with chunks of beef filet, cabbage, chili flakes, and topped with spicy soy sauce.

Another dish from the same menu section is a wonderfully satisfying Japanese “bop” – a little platform of crispy rice holding a construction of pickles, spinach, chili, and marinated plum crowned by a soft-fried fresh egg.

Seafood choices include a sweetly tender wood roasted char siu black cod, garnished with sautéed pea tendrils, which makes for a light yet filing dish.

Among meat and poultry offerings there is a moderately spicy black pepper shaking beef, smothered with red onions, tomatoes, chili, and watercress.

Most of the dishes we tried were suggested by our knowledgeable server Sandra, and manager Holly Friedmann made sure we and other patrons were well taken care of, as well as the entire skilled staff of E & O – my new favorite in Downtown San Francisco.

E & O Asian Kitchen is located at 314 Sutter Street in San Francisco. Lunch is served Monday-Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Happy Hour 3 to 6 p.m. Dinner Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m., Monday-Wednesday from 4 to 10 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m. A Late Night Bar menu is available Thursday through Saturday evenings until midnight or close. For more information, visit: www.eosanfrancisco.com.

AgroTourism in Rural Romania

2012-08-21T06:37:00.001-07:00

Guest Blogger Erin Caslavka, photography by Jon Deinzer

On the streets of Sibiu, pedestrians stop to gaze into store windows filled with jewelry from Turkey, shoes from Italy or clothing from China. But just outside the fortified walls of the city is a an outdoor marketplace waiting to be explored, where shoppers can fill their bags with the treasures of Romania: luscious local fruits, vegetables, honey, eggs, and cheese.

The farmer’s market on the outskirts of Sibiu, about a 10-minute walk from the city center, was the embodiment of all we’d come to suspect based on the lush, verdant fields and hillsides we’d driven past during the month of May. Romania isn’t exactly the “breadbasket of Europe” - that title’s been assigned to the Ukraine. But with its close proximity to the former Soviet state, Romania can boast very similar rich, fertile soil. With such a cache of terroir riches, it’s no wonder that at the Sibiu farmer’s market we spied plump tomatoes the color of rubies, mounds of cabbage in translucent shades of green, golden local honey and ivory-toned cheese.

Anyone who’s interested in the Slow Food Movement, or a devotee of farm-to-table dining, should have a trip to Romania on their travel radar. Although the culinary influences at most Romanian restaurants are clearly Eastern European, the abundance of fresh produce and recently-harvested food products makes dining in the countryside an adventure unto itself.

Most people are aware that truffle hunting exists in France and Italy, but truffles in Transylvania? Believe it or not, an option available to foodies is held in the area near Biertan (with its fortified Saxon church) via Pacific Perfect Tour’s “Gourmet Truffle Weekend.” Accommodations are provided in guesthouses that have been restored to keep their traditional architecture intact (but with the added conveniences of modern life), and during the daytime, you head out for a truffle hunt with a guide and his trained dogs. The search for the “black diamonds” of the culinary world is thrilling in-and-of-itself, but following your foray into foraging, you head back to the kitchen for a lesson in how to prepare a meal utilizing the highly-prized fungus.

Anyone who’s seen the menu of an upscale restaurant would agree that those truffles are an expensive addition to a dish - an ingredient, you might say, fit for a king’s pocketbook. So imagine for a moment while you’re in Romania, dining on one of the world’s most expensive food products, that you are royalty: where would you stay? If you’re a prince from Great Britain, and you happen to be named Charles, you’d stay in a traditional home painted the deep blue color of the Romanian sky.

From the outside, the Prince of Wales’ house doesn’t look like much; but pass through the gates and you enter an interior courtyard that reveals a garden, grapevine-draped walls and a covered, outdoor dining terrace. The house has three double bedrooms, two bathrooms and a kitchen, and is filled with simple-yet-comfortable furnishings. On the day we visited, the housekeeper was cleaning up after the previous night’s guests, and preparing the house for the next set.

There aren’t too many places in the world were you can literally sleep in the same bed as a living monarch, but in Romania, you can. Most likely because Prince Charles (himself a staunch advocate of sustainable and organic farming) is only able to ‘get away from it all’ and stay at his farmhouse a few days out of every year, his house - located in the Transylvanian village of Viscri (a UNESCO World Heritage site) - is open to paying guests. Not only is the experience unique, but a portion of the rates you’ll pay for staying overnight are gifted to a local orphanage.

Although the prince (and sometimes his son Harry) is considered a town resident, nevertheless life in the rural village is still much as it was hundreds of years ago: cows are still milked, chickens are still relieved of their eggs, rows of seedlings are still planted and harvested, and gypsies still arrive on a schedule all their own to make charcoal in the countryside.

A 15-minute drive from Viscri will take you to the charcoal makers who supply fuel for the fireplaces in the village (and for sale elsewhere). Fourth-generation charcoal makers, the transient workers - a husband, his wife and their apprentice - construct huge cylindrical mounds of wood, cover them with a layer of hay, and finally ash and dirt. A fire is set inside the enormous wood pile and allowed to burn for days, turning the once-brown wood into pieces of dark-gray charcoal logs; whereupon the charcoal makers will bundle them up for market.

In rural Transylvania, visions of an earlier version of the world still exists. So save the window shopping and boutique-ing for the other Europe; in Romania, embrace the slow pace of life and enjoy the pleasures that ‘the simple life’ provides.

Perfect Tour is the third-largest travel company in Romania, and is a widely-experienced travel source when it comes to assisting group and independent travelers. We worked with its US division, Pacific Perfect Tour, to help us make the connections we needed within Romania. They can be contacted at:

Pacific Perfect Tour

Phone: (818) 726-5151 / Daniela Ionescu

Email: office@perfect-tour.com

For more information go to: http://www.perfect-tour.com/perfect_tour_provides_travel_services_for_movie_production_companies.html

SF Chefs: Watching Stars under the Sunday Grand Tasting Tent

2012-08-20T18:06:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov

The Grand Tasting Tent on Union Square hosted constellations of star chefs and thousands of fans during the annual celebration of epicurean delights in San Francisco.

On Sunday afternoon, lost in the crowd of revelers and overwhelmed with sights and aromas of master chefs’ creations, I tried my hardest to sample as many whimsical morsel s as possible, but soon realized that I should have dieted longer in anticipation of the grand food event.

I should have followed an example of Andrew Freeman, the president of Andrew Freeman & Co. and the SF Chefs co-producer, who admittedly went on a diet weeks in advance so he could “party like a rock star!” He surely looked good in the limelight of the interviewing media, even though working with the Golden Gate Restaurant Association must be tough on anyone’s waistline.

Let me enchant and entice you mere bits from the feast like no other.

Gary Rulli (Emporio Rulli) and Michele Belotti (Ristobar) presented Agnolotti di Lidia – house made pasta stuffed with veal, pork, cheese and greens, and Bignolata – signature cream puffs so good, the Chef himself couldn’t resist them.

Adam Jones (Palomino) made chilled cucumber bisque with truffled sea salt, crème fraiche and micro basil.

Another pleasingly vegetarian dish came from Robert Lam (Butterfly) – a great tasting green pea and curry creation.

For the rest of us, who are still mourning the loss of foie gras to California culinary scene, Erik Lowe and Bruce Hill (Bix) came up with a clever substitute, “faux gras” duck liver pate with plum jam on toast.

Diego Oka (La Mar Cebicheria Peruana) made a restaurant’s namesake Cebiche La Mar with halibut, uni and scallops in Leche de tigre with aji Amarillo foam, and another signature dish – Causa Anticuchera with octopus tartar on top of yellow potato causa with creamy huacatay sauce and Peruvian black olive foam.

The delicious combination of octopus and potato wasn’t lost on Gustavo Romero Veytia (Credo) who presented his Polpo Galogo of braised octopod, house made chorizo, roasted garlic potato puree and Calabrese chili vinaigrette.

Jordan Grosser (Honor Bar) is famous for his bone marrow creations, so the happy ticket holders to the Tent had a chance to try his bone marrow brulee with bulgogi, jalapeno, and garlic confit over grilled crostini .

Matt Greco (Wente) made everyone happy with a prosciutto on toast sandwich topped with baby greens.

For dessert, the happy campers were flocking to Emporio Rulli’s display of triple crème puffs made with orange-pineapple-strawberry ice cream and Chantilly cream.

Justin Everett (Murray Circle at Cavallo Point) in addition to his coriander smoked wild salmon with avocado mousse and pickled radish on house baked rye, also made an oat financier with peach ale preserves and brown sugar.

Campari America put forward its best cocktails – Creole Strawberry Swizzle with SKYY Vodka, and Brunch Cup No. 5 with rye whiskey, vermouth, Amaro, Cynar, and orange bitters.

A Food Network star Brian Boitano hosted the Dacor Demonstration Stage where legendary Master Chef and James Beard Winner Martin Yan prepared preview dishes from his new SF restaurant, M.Y. China along with Chef Arnold Eric Wong of E & O Asian Kitchen. Dan Dan Noodles were made of wheat flour, garnished with ground pork, and bathed in sesame seed, chili, ginger, sugar, vinegar, and soy sauce.

The major food event involved 250 chefs, 75 wineries, 30 bars, 14 venues, 4 grand tastings, 7 dinner parties, 2 after parties, 12 industry classes, 8 classes, 17 demos, and 1 chef challenge – all viewed and tried by about 20 000 guests of SF Chefs.

Sunday Grand Tasting Tent proceeds supported La Cocina. Other beneficiaries of the event included Golden Gate Restaurant Association Scholarship Foundation, Meals on Wheels of San Francisco, The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA), and the San Francisco and Marin Food Banks. More information at: www.sfchefsfoodwine.com

SF Chefs: The After Party at E & O Asian Kitchen

2012-08-19T14:43:00.002-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Love for good food does not necessarily makes a good chef, but it surely is one of the prerequisites. Does it mean that chefs can eat on cue any time of day or night? Even if they’ve just cooked, tasted, and eaten plenty?

That was a question for me to ponder at the SF Chefs opening night After Party, which started at 10 p.m., following the Grand Tasting Tent celebration on San Francisco’s Union Square.

Aptly named “Steamed, Fried, and Shanghai’d,” the after party was happening at the newly redesigned E & O Asian Kitchen, known for its yummy original cocktails and creative tasty bites – steamed, fried, and otherwise cooked and spiced to perfection.

The scene was set for a crowd of SF Chefs participants and guests who quickly filled the elegantly-lit bar area on the first floor, and the upstairs dining hall decorated with antique furniture and art pieces.

Late night delights from host Chefs Arnold Eric Wong and Sharon Nahm were paired with Asian inspired cocktails from the beverage director Carlos Yturria.

Ahi tuna poke in a fried wonton basket was delicately spiced with ginger, and garnished with shallots, red pepper, and microgreens.

Lightly breaded and fried cod was redolent of turmeric and cardamom from a swirl of muchi curry tartar.

Lap Souchong tea deviled eggs were topped with crispy pork belly, red chili, and a sprig of cilantro.

Shiitake mushroom dumplings were served in a Chinese soup spoon, bathed in soy butter pan sauce.

The ambience at E & O Asian Kitchen is a big part of the enjoyment this place offers. Sleek, dark, and intriguing, the restaurant is a definite standout among its many peers in the city of San Francisco, and calls for a more detailed visit than at the SF Chefs after party – which was a huge success, indeed.

E & O Asian Kitchen is located at: 314 Sutter Street in San Francisco. Call for reservations 415-693-0303 or visit: www.eosanfrancisco.com

SF Chefs: 49 Square Miles Food Tour

2012-08-18T07:16:00.003-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Right before the SF Chefs weekend started at the Grand Tasting Tent on Union Square, a lavish preview of the upcoming festivities unfolded on the Imperial Floor of the iconic Westin St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco. The San Francisco Chronicle’s 49 Square Miles Food Tour introduced the amazing diversity of gourmet neighborhoods found in each square mile of the City by the Bay. The party ticket holders were treated to handcrafted cocktails from the Campari America portfolio, wines from California vineyards, and beer from local microbreweries. Golden Gate 75 cocktail, created by Camper English, resembled the “international orange” color of the world-famous bridge, and consisted of Campari, California sparkling wine, blood orange juice, and simple syrup. Desperado cocktail from Dosa restaurant was made with tequila Espolon, chai tea, Maraschino, ginger, lemon, and golden ale. Food choices reflected the natural bounty of the Bay Area and Northern California. Presidio Social Club (Chefs Jay Abrams and Rene Cruz) presented alderwood smoked clams in Bloody Ceasar with tomatoes, tequila, and pickled Jimmy Nardello peppers; tea smoked trout gougeres with crème fraiche, and lemon meringue cake squares.

Pier 23 Café (Chef Matt Garcia) served scallop ceviche with guacamole, grilled yellow corn, red onions, and poblano peppers.

Bar Crudo had fresh butterfish topped with prosciutto and hardboiled egg, and marinated mussels.

From Sutro’s restaurant at the Cliff House came grilled local sea bass with apple kimchi, green onion crema, and chicharones.

Alioto’s came up with the original seafood sausage made of prawns, Bay shrimp, scallops, tomato and basil in pork casing and white wine, lemon, and butter sauce.

Other participants, like Yank Sing, Coco 500, Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA), Ristobar, Arizmendi Bakery, Yvonne's Southern Sweets, etc. were dishing out their dumplings, duck liver pate, soup, meatballs, and cookies to everyone’s delight.

The evening concluded with the pastry chefs’ competition judged by the party attendees. Several prominent San Francisco chefs were assigned to express their feelings about their beloved city in cake.

The winning cake baker, Gary Rulli of Emporio Rulli and Ristobar, created a three-dimensional image of the Golden Gate Bridge surrounded by abstracted lotus petals, and was awarded a basket of chocolates from Guittard Chocolate Company.

Runners-up were Foreign Cinema (Nicole Hayes), reflecting the neighborhoods of San Francisco on the round multi-tiered cake, the Fifth Floor Restaurant (Francis Ang) presenting everything the city is proud of on a square multicolored construction, and gorgeous and tasteful creations from Baker and Banker (Lori Baker and Daniel Saravia), and Perbacco (Laura Cronin).

SF Chefs: EPIC Pig-out Opening

2012-08-18T06:02:00.002-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov

SF Chefs – the most popular annual celebration of all things food, happening every first weekend in August in San Francisco – opened with a bang at EPIC Roasthouse Restaurant on Embarcadero.Party with Pork was created and hosted by the EPIC’s Executive Chef Jan Birnbaum. Wildly delicious cold and hot dishes made with the best cuts of meat provided by the National Pork Board were paired with cocktails from Campari America, Four Roses Bourbon, Trumer Pils beer and wines from Rhône Valley Wines and Livermore Valley Wine Country. A charcuterie board included house-made pork terrine, cured pancetta, capicola, chorizo, and salami. Pizza toppings varied from pork sausage to pancetta w ith potato, and salami with Fontina cheese.

On the outside terrace, Reza Esmaili of Ananas Consulting was mixing refershing summertime cocktails garnished with cucumbers and strawberries. At the makeshift carving station, juicy porchetta was sliced to fit into brioche buns with dijonnaise and stone fruit compote. BBQ ribs with pork leg and Gigante beans made a finger-licking stew in a giant kettle. To make the picture complete, creative appetizers were passed around the party room - ham and cheese beignets, Baby Gems lettuce leaves with bacon brittle, pulled pork sliders, and prosciutto wrapped melon. All – in view of San Francisco Bay and Bay Bridge – a perfect backdrop for a perfect party.

Oh, the Crepes! At Chez Maman West in San Francisco

2012-08-14T15:59:00.004-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Starting your dinner with dessert might be a great idea, especially if you dine at the newly open Chez Manan West in Hayes Valley neighborhood of San Francisco.

That tender airy crepe with chestnut crème caught my imagination, and appeared to be everything I hoped for. But no, I didn’t eat my dessert first, although I was aware of the fact that life is short…

I had my highly enjoyable traditional French dinner at Chez Maman the proper way, starting with Les Moules Mariniere – fresh plump mussels bathed in a fragrant broth of white wine, lemon juice, garlic and parsley.

On De La Maison menu they were “recommended with fries,” as if there were any other way to enjoy them.

My dining companion, who takes sausage over shellfish every time, chose merguez (spicey lamb sausage) with hot-hot-hot harissa for his starter.

For entrée, I had delicious medium rare flat iron steak in green peppercorn sauce – and more fries! He voted for a pork chop smothered in apple cider mustard sauce and garnished with Brussels sprouts. Both plates were well worth licking.

Conceived by Jocelyn Bulow, San-Francisco’s famous restaurateur of Southern French descent, Chez Maman West follows the well-established path of his other famously successful eateries, like Chez Maman, Chez Papa Bistrot, and Papito.

"This new location joins the one on Potrero Hill and I've been delighted by the eager anticipation that has preceded our opening. I think the response is because we serve something that will please almost every palate," said Bulow.

On the night we dined, one of his partners and General Manager, David Alexander, greeted us by the door of Chez Maman West, where a line of patrons eagerly anticipating their meal was already forming.

The menu, executed by Chef Russell Cab and his team, features French bistro cuisine classics as well as panini, burgers, and a special section of tacos, burritos and quesadillas from Papito, a beloved Mexican restaurant serving fresh organic locally sourced produce.

20 red wines, 20 white wines, margaritas, Bloody Marys and housemade sangria are the staples, while daily specials are listed on a blackboard above the bar.

Small, but lively and bustling dining room, copper and granite bar backed by an oversized mirror, plenty of natural light streaming through the floor to ceiling windows, and fast attentive service create an atmosphere of a hip modern bistro, where you can take your date, your parents, or your friends, and feel welcome, well taken care of, and – at home.

Chez Maman West does not accept reservations or have a formal host station, but it feels good just to wait for you table here, a glass of house red in hand.

Chez Maman West is located at 401 Gough Street, San Francisco. The restaurant is open daily, Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. and on Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. with weekend brunch served until 4:00 p.m. For more information, call (415) 355-9067 or visit www.chezmamansf.com.

Urban Tavern Goes Brunch

2012-08-14T14:30:00.002-07:00

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Weekend brunch in San Francisco is so much more than a meal. It’s a great excuse to sleep in, to skip the gym, to wear a sundress, to forget makeup, and to drink hard liquor with mixers in a great company.

People rarely go to brunch with their bosses, business associates, or helicopter in-laws. Late mornings on weekends are reserved for close family, friends and lovers, and that’s that.

There is hardly a self-respecting restaurant in the City by the Bay that wouldn’t do brunch these days.

Urban Tavern, a downtown restaurant by the Hilton San Francisco Union Square, recently joined the trend by offering a weekend brunch menu and a free parking to go with it, which on itself is a commodity in San Francisco.

A large dining room at Urban Tavern features green design in many aspects – it is low lit, with exposed overhead beams made of reclaimed wood from an old farmhouse, and antique mirrors on the walls. A centerpiece that separates the bar area from the dining room is a striking multicolored metal horse, created by Doug Owen. It consists of various salvaged parts from agricultural machinery, like a radiator from a retired tractor, or a rusty propane tank. Cozy booths in the dining room sit from two to six, and usually fill out quickly every night at dinner time. In the bar area, there is a long communal table made out of a single tree trunk, polished and finished, with a naturally occurring heart-shaped knothole in the middle.

Intended a gathering place for the hotel guests and San-Franciscans alike, the restaurant accommodates parties and events from 10 to 360 people for birthday celebrations, weddings, corporate lunches, and conferences.

As for weekend brunch at Urban Tavern, it’s a work in progress. The menu, created by Executive Chef Colin Duggan, is now served every Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., along with the regular lunch items.

My Chicken & Waffles Benedict from the brunch menu consisted of cheddar Serrano waffle, breaded and fried chicken breast, poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. My dining companion ordered The Stackable from the regular lunch menu – a Painted Hills burger with butter lettuce, tomato, house pickles and potato onion fries. The fries were served in a no-ink “newspaper” printed on parchment paper, which was a nice touch, and they tasted good, too!

My favorite part of the brunch was a cocktail created by a kind bartender to my order. Since our waitress warned me that they ran out of watermelon for their most popular St.-Germain based drink, I asked for anything else that would include elderflower liquor. My no-name cocktail was wonderfully refreshing in a tall glass enlivened by fresh strawberries and cucumber slices and topped with prosecco.

Other items on the new brunch menu include Lemon Griddle Cake Cannoli (fresh fruit, Bellwether Farms ricotta cheese, pistachios and maple syrup for $11.00); Egg White Frittata (goat cheese, roasted vegetables, tomatillo salsa and an heirloom tomato salad for $14.00); and a Fried Egg Sandwich (bacon, lettuce, tomato, cheddar cheese and smoked aioli on a ciabatta roll for $13.00).

Urban Tavern is located at 333 O’Farrell Street in San Francisco. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Call (415) 923-4400 or visit www.urbantavernsf.com.