the light baggage

Where the Ganga is Born

2026-05-18T19:22:13.124+05:30

Where the Ganga Begins

Gangotri · Gaumukh · Tapovan

Uttarakhand, India14,640 ft5 days on trail

It started with a WhatsApp message. My friend Sandeep asked if I wanted to join his team from the Karnataka Mountaineering Association for a trek to Gangotri, Gaumukh, and Tapovan. This was something I had wanted to do for a long time. I said yes before I could overthink it.

We had a briefing in Bengaluru, got our sleeping bags and rucksacks, and then suddenly it was the day of travel. I met a lot of people but couldn't hold on to names. When we all gathered in Dehradun, the nerves hit me properly. I was probably the only one there doing their first Himalayan trek. I didn't follow a fitness regime, and age wasn't helping either. But I looked around and saw people much older than me, moving with confidence, and that quietly settled something inside me. I walk a lot during regular trips and I held on to that.

We had two days in Gangotri to acclimatise. We did a practice trek, visited Surya Kund, Gauri Kund, and a small museum. But the part that stayed with me was the evening aarti at the Ganga Maiya temple, the sound of bells and chanting rising up into the cold mountain air with the river rushing below. By the time the real trek began, I felt ready. Mostly.

Day 1

The Long Road to Bhojwasa

We set off at 8:30 in the morning under the leadership of Ms. Purnima. The trail to Bhojwasa is about 14 kilometres, a steady climb that looks manageable on paper. Our guides Rajesh, Raghuveer, Kedar and Uttam walked with us, always calm, always knowing the next step. The porters carried our heavy rucksacks like it was nothing. I watched them and felt a little humbled.

Within thirty minutes of walking, my phone showed no signal. Just the trail, the mountains, and the sound of our own footsteps. At Chidwasa, during lunch, one of our teammates started feeling unwell AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) and had to go back to Gangotri on a mule. It was a quiet reminder that the mountains decide who goes forward.

We pushed on, and as evening came, we reached the Bhojwasa viewpoint. There it was the Bhagirathi glacier, massive and silent. The river Bhagirathi is born here, named after King Bhagiratha who, as the story goes, meditated for years to bring the Ganga down to earth to free his ancestors. Standing there, looking at all that ice and sky, the story suddenly didn't feel like just a story. We stayed the night in tents, three of us squeezed in, temperatures dropping well below zero. But somehow, we slept.

Day 2

The Climb That Made Me Cry

The day started slowly. We had to pull a trolley across the river by hand, not glamorous, but it brought the team together. Once we crossed Bhojwasa, the landscape kept changing every few minutes. Forests turned to dry rocky ground. Rocky ground turned steep. The last three kilometres were the hardest with loose soil underfoot, a section where rocks were falling, and a stretch at nearly 45 degrees that felt almost vertical.

By six in the evening, we had been climbing for hours. My legs were done. My lungs were working harder than they had in years. And then, we crossed the last ridge.

The Shivaling glacier appeared out of nowhere, glowing in the last light of the day. That was the moment I started crying. Just quietly, to myself, out of relief, out of gratitude, out of something I still can't name properly.

I had made it to Tapovan, at 14,640 feet. We sat in our tents that evening, talking and laughing over hot tea, the kind of conversation you can only have after something genuinely hard. The support staff cooked a warm meal, we ate well, and went to bed early exhausted in the best possible way.

Day 3

Tea with a Silent Monk

The night had been cold with - 8 degrees. The little stream next to our tent, the Aakash Ganga, had frozen overnight. But the morning sun was sharp and clear, and it hit the Shivaling glacier in a way that made it look like it was glowing from the inside.

After breakfast, we hiked to a viewpoint and then walked over to the ashram of Mouni Baba. He is a monk who has lived here at 14,200 feet for many years, keeping a lifelong vow of silence in devotion to Lord Shiva. He offers tea and shelter to trekkers who pass through, and asks for nothing in return. We sat in his small stone ashram, drank tea, and talked a bit. It felt like the right thing to do.

The afternoon was slow and peaceful. I went for a short walk with a fellow trekker, trying to identify the peaks on the horizon, Bhagirathi, Meru, others we couldn't name. The evening had fun and games, laughter between people who had just been strangers a few days ago.

Day 4

At the Source of the Ganga

We descended from Tapovan first with steep, careful, one step at a time. By mid-morning, we reached Gaumukh. This is the mouth of the glacier, and it is where the Ganga begins. Drops of water seep out of ancient ice and slowly, over many kilometres, grow into one of the world's great rivers.

I stood there for a long time and just stared. It is hard to explain what you feel watching that. This water will flow through Rishikesh, Varanasi, and all the way to the Bay of Bengal. It will feed hundreds of millions of people. And it starts here quietly, without any fuss, just cold water finding its way out of the ice. Words from the film Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara kept playing in my head.

What played in my mind at Gaumukh

Pighle neelam sa behta ye sama
Neeli neeli si khamoshiyan
Na kahin hai zameen, na kahin aasmaan
Sarsaraati hui tehniyaan, pattiyaan
Keh rahin hai ki bas ek tum ho yahan
Sirf main hoon
Meri saansein hain aur meri dhadkanein
Aisi gehraiyaan, aisi tanhaiyaan
Aur main, sirf main
Apne hone pe mujhko yakeen aa gaya

We walked on to Chidwasa. Cold winds picked up and clouds came in, and for a while it looked like rain. But the rain held off. We reached camp by 4:30, had tea and snacks, and slept early.

Day 5

The Milky Way, and Goodbye

Before dawn, someone woke us up. The sky was perfectly clear and the Milky Way was right there above us not in a picture, just actually there, spread across the whole sky. We stood in the cold for a while taking photos, knowing the photos wouldn't quite capture it. They never do.

We walked back to Gangotri, arriving well before 9 in the morning. After some waiting for the porters and a last lunch, we began the journey home. Gangotri to Rishikesh, Rishikesh to wherever each of us had come from. The group scattered the way trek groups do, warm goodbyes, numbers exchanged, a shared memory of something hard and beautiful.

Looking back

What I Carried Home

This was my first time in the Himalayas, and I came back a little different. Not in any dramatic way, just quieter, more aware. Some things became obvious to me on that trail that I had been ignoring back home.

Things the trek taught me

Never take your health for granted. The body that carried you up a mountain deserves daily gratitude.

Be grateful for what you have. Standing at Gaumukh makes that very easy to feel.

Help others when you can. The guides, the porters, the teammates, this whole trek ran on that.

Age is not the barrier we make it out to be. People of all generations walked this trail together, shared tents, laughed at the same things.

"I went looking for Gaumukh.
I found myself somewhere along the way."

A Morning Among Temples: My Final Walk Through Bhubaneswar

2026-02-19T12:03:25.655+05:30

Overview: With my return train scheduled for the afternoon, I decided to make the most of the quiet morning hours in Bhubaneswar, exploring a few temples that were still left on my list. What followed was not just a checklist of monuments, but a deeply immersive walk through a city that truly earns its title the "Temple City" of India.

Chausath Yogini Temple: Sacred and Surreal

I began my day at the Chausath Yogini Temple, located slightly away from the city’s bustle. Set atop a small hillock, this circular, open-air temple felt unlike anything I had seen before. Dedicated to the 64 Yoginis, the temple has an almost mystical aura, especially in the early morning light. The absence of a roof, the weathered stone figures, and the quiet surroundings create an atmosphere that feels powerful and ancient as though time has paused here.

Bhaskareshwara Temple: The Rising Sun

Next, I visited the Bhaskareshwara Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his solar aspect. True to its name, the temple beautifully catches the morning sun, illuminating the sanctum in a way that feels intentional and symbolic. The simplicity of the structure, combined with its precise orientation, reflects the deep astronomical and architectural knowledge of the temple builders.

Rajarani, Brahmeshwara & Bhimeshwara Temples: Elegance in Stone

From there, I moved on to the Brahmeshwara Temple, one of the finest examples of early Kalinga architecture. The intricate carvings, decorative panels, and balanced proportions make it a visual delight. Close by lies the Bhimeshwara Temple, smaller and quieter, yet equally graceful. These temples don’t demand attention they reward patience. Standing before them, you notice details only when you slow down.

Around Lingaraj Temple: The Soul of Bhubaneswar

I then spent time walking around the Lingaraj Temple complex, without entering the main shrine. The area around Lingaraj is a world in itself clusters of ancient subsidiary temples, sacred water tanks, narrow lanes, and everyday life unfolding against a backdrop of history. Each temple here, big or small, seems to carry its own story, its own rhythm of worship.

A City Built on Faith and Form

By the end of the morning, one thought stayed with me, Bhubaneswar is not just a city with temples; it is a city shaped by temples. The skyline, the streets, and even the silence feel influenced by centuries of devotion and craftsmanship. The Kalinga architectural style, with its soaring shikharas and detailed stonework, repeats itself like a familiar refrain, yet never feels monotonous.

As I made my way back to prepare for the journey home, I felt grateful for those unhurried hours. Exploring Bhubaneswar’s temples in the calm of the morning offered the perfect conclusion to my Odisha trip, quiet, profound, and deeply rooted in history.

Some cities impress you.
Others stay with you.
Bhubaneswar does both.

Caves, Crafts, Tributes, and Sweet Endings: A Day Through Odisha’s Living History

2026-02-14T09:27:00.000+05:30

Overview: Our day in Bhubaneswar began early, knowing it would be one of the most packed and enriching days of our journey through Odisha. After breakfast, we set out with curiosity and anticipation, ready to explore layers of history, culture, and legacy, all unfolding within a single day.

Udayagiri & Khandagiri: Where Stone Sheltered Faith

Our first stop was the ancient Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves, located just a few kilometres from the heart of Bhubaneswar. Among the two, Udayagiri is better maintained and houses a larger number of caves, so we hired a guide there, an excellent decision that brought the carvings and inscriptions alive.

Dating back to the 1st century BCE, these caves were carved during the reign of King Kharavela of Kalinga as residential shelters for Jain monks. Together, the twin hills house 33 existing caves: 18 at Udayagiri and 15 at Khandagiri, though inscriptions suggest many more once existed.

The most striking among them is Rani Gumpha (Queen’s Cave), a double-storeyed monastery adorned with detailed reliefs depicting royal processions, animals, musicians, and scenes of daily life. Equally significant is Hathi Gumpha, famous for the Hathigumpha inscription, a 17-line record in Brahmi script that offers invaluable insight into Kharavela’s reign and achievements.

Other caves like Vyaghra Gumpha, with its tiger-mouth façade, and Ganesha Gumpha, known for its guardian sculptures, added layers of fascination. Standing amidst these rock-cut shelters, it was humbling to imagine ascetic lives unfolding here more than two thousand years ago. No wonder the ASI lists Udayagiri-Khandagiri as a “Must-See” Indian heritage site.

Kala Bhoomi: A Celebration of Odisha’s Crafts

From ancient stone, we moved to living art at Kala Bhoomi- Odisha Crafts Museum. Spread across a sprawling 12.68 acres, this thoughtfully designed museum is a tribute to the state’s extraordinary artisan communities.

Built using local materials like laterite stone, Kala Bhoomi seamlessly blends architecture with purpose. The museum is divided into two main blocks, Handicrafts and Handlooms, along with open-air theatres, workshops, and galleries.

From terracotta, stone and wood carving, traditional paintings, to tribal crafts, pre-weaving techniques, and Jagannath-centric art, every gallery told a story of skill passed down through generations. The “live” sections, where artisans demonstrate their craft, made the experience especially immersive. We spent a long, unhurried time here, and still felt we could have stayed longer.

Odisha State Tribal Museum: A Living Museum of Communities

Our next stop was the Odisha State Tribal Museum, often described as one of the finest tribal museums in India, and rightly so. Established in 1953 and located within the green campus, the museum celebrates the lives of Odisha’s 62 tribal communities.

Traditional tribal huts, galleries on art, livelihood, belief systems, and the dedicated PTG World gallery on Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Groups make this a deeply educational and moving experience.

The herbal gardens, shrine craft zones, and audio-visual spaces further enrich the visit, offering insight into cultures that continue to thrive alongside modernity.

Cuttack: Remembering Netaji

Post lunch, we headed towards Cuttack, beginning with a visit to the Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Birthplace Museum. Housed in his ancestral home, the museum is both dignified and deeply moving.

Personal belongings, letters, photographs, and rare documents trace Netaji’s journey, from his early life to his leadership of the Indian National Army and his uncompromising role in India’s freedom struggle. Walking through the galleries, one cannot help but feel inspired by his courage and conviction.

Barabati Fort: Echoes of a Forgotten Capital

From there, we visited the ruins of Barabati Fort, built in 987 CE by Maharaja Markata Keshari of the Somavanshi dynasty. Strategically located between the Mahanadi and Kathajodi rivers, the fort once protected the city of Kataka (modern-day Cuttack).

Though only ruins remain today, moats, gateways, and the earthen mound of a nine-storeyed palace, the site still whispers stories of royal grandeur. Archaeological excavations have revealed palace foundations, terracotta figurines, pottery, iron tools, and even fragments of Chinese porcelain, pointing to Odisha’s ancient global connections.

A Sweet Full Stop: Rasagola

As dusk settled, we drove back towards Bhubaneswar and ended the day the best way possible, by tasting the famous Odisha Rasagola at Pahala. Soft, spongy, mildly sweet, and soaked in light syrup, it was the perfect closing note.

Deeply associated with the Jagannath Temple tradition, where it is believed to have originated as Khira Mohana, the Odisha Rasagola carries both culinary and spiritual significance.

After a day that moved from rock-cut caves to living crafts, from freedom struggles to forgotten forts, this simple dessert felt like comfort, tradition, and pride, all rolled into one.

Some days don’t just show you places.
They show you the soul of a land.

Wheels of Time, Threads of Art, and the Call of Peace: A Day Across Coastal Odisha

2026-02-09T11:18:00.000+05:30

Overview: Our day began in Puri, with a simple yet comforting local breakfast, 'Chilla', Odisha’s answer to the dosa of South India. Light, wholesome, and freshly made, it was the perfect way to start a day that would take us through centuries of art, empire, and introspection.

Konark Sun Temple: Where Stone Becomes Time

Post breakfast, we headed to the legendary Sun Temple at Konark, one of India’s most extraordinary architectural achievements and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built in the 13th century by King Narasimha Deva I of the Eastern Ganga dynasty, the temple was conceived as a colossal stone chariot of Surya, the Sun God. The structure is defined by its 24 intricately carved wheels, each a masterpiece in itself, symbolising the passage of time, and seven stone horses that once appeared to pull the chariot across the sky.

Designed in the classical Kalinga architectural style, the temple is celebrated for its extraordinary sculptural detail, ranging from celestial beings and scenes of everyday life to bold, sensuous imagery that reflects the completeness of human experience. Although the towering main sanctum has collapsed over time, the Jagamohana (assembly hall) and Natya Mandap (dance hall) still stand, bearing silent testimony to the temple’s former grandeur.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, Konark remains not just a monument, but a profound meditation in stone, on time, light, and human creativity.

Pipili: Threads That Carry Tradition

From Konark, we drove to Pipili, a vibrant craft town renowned for its traditional appliqué work, locally known as Chandua. This centuries old art form involves stitching colourful fabric pieces onto a base cloth to create striking patterns used in wall hangings, torans, cushion covers, umbrellas, and temple decorations.

Historically, Pipili’s appliqué was crafted for ceremonial canopies and umbrellas used during Lord Jagannath’s Ratha Yatra, and even today, most households here are involved in this craft. Walking through Pipili felt like stepping into a palette of colours, shops spilling over with textiles, mirrors, and patterns that spoke of devotion, celebration, and continuity.

We had lunch here, soaking in the energy of a town where art is not a product, but a way of life.

Dhauli: Where Conquest Gave Way to Compassion

Our final stop for the day was Dhauli, a serene hill on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, overlooking the banks of the Daya River. It was here that history took a dramatic turn.

Dhauli is associated with the aftermath of the Kalinga War, which profoundly transformed Emperor Ashoka. The site is marked by the striking white Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), built in 1972, symbolising Ashoka’s embrace of non-violence and the path of Dharma.

Below the stupa are the famous Ashokan Rock Edicts, inscribed on a massive rock face, along with a remarkable rock-cut elephant sculpture, discovered accidentally by Markham Kittoe in 1837. Carved such that only the front half of the elephant emerges from the rock, it appears as if the animal is stepping out of stone itself, an image both powerful and haunting.

What makes Dhauli especially significant are its two unique Kalinga edicts, in which Ashoka instructs his officers to govern the newly conquered land with fairness, restraint, and compassion, explicitly discouraging harassment, unjust punishment, and coercion. These inscriptions mark one of the earliest recorded expressions of ethical governance.

As the sun dipped lower, Dhauli’s quiet hills offered a moment of reflection, on power, remorse, and the possibility of transformation.

Back to Bhubaneswar

From Dhauli, we returned to Bhubaneswar and checked back into Hotel Royal 91, which once again lived up to the warm hospitality we had experienced earlier in the trip. It felt reassuring to end such a layered day in a place that offered comfort and care.

From the cosmic wheels of Konark to the stitched stories of Pipili and the peaceful silence of Dhauli, the day unfolded like a journey across time, reminding us that Odisha is as much about inner reflection as it is about outward beauty.

Art, Faith, and the Eternal Call of Jagannath: Day Three in Odisha

2026-01-29T12:19:00.000+05:30

Overview: Our third day began on a far more pleasant note. The buffet breakfast at OTDC Barakul was noticeably better organised than the previous day, simple, efficient, and unhurried. With renewed energy, we set out early, knowing that the day would involve a longer drive and some of the most culturally rich experiences of our journey.

Raghurajpur: Where Every Home Is a Canvas

Our first destination was Raghurajpur, a heritage crafts village near Puri, celebrated worldwide for its traditional art forms. Declared Odisha’s first Heritage Village in 2000, Raghurajpur is not just a place you visit, it is a living museum of creativity.

Here, every house doubles as an art studio, and generations of artisans continue to preserve ancient crafts with remarkable dedication. The village is best known for:

Pattachitra: vibrant cloth scroll paintings depicting mythological stories, especially those related to Lord Jagannath
Talapatachitra: intricate engravings on dried palm leaves
Mask-making: colourful papier-mâché masks used in folk traditions
Stone and wood carving: idols, figurines, and toys crafted with precision

Walking through the narrow lanes felt like leafing through a visual chronicle of Odisha’s artistic heritage. We spent time interacting with the artists, understanding their techniques, and eventually took home a Ramayana Pattachitra painting, along with a few locally made souvenirs, objects that carried stories far deeper than their frames.

Arrival at Puri: Where the Sea Meets the Sacred

By evening, we reached Puri. After checking into our hotel, our first instinct was to head straight to the beach. As expected, it was lively and crowded, but the sight of the sun setting in golden hues over the Bay of Bengal was worth every step. The energy of the sea, the sound of waves, and the evening breeze created a perfect prelude to what lay ahead.

The streets leading towards the Jagannath Temple were lined with bustling local markets, irresistible in their colour and charm. We found ourselves pausing often, sometimes to browse, sometimes to buy, before finally making our way to the temple.

Jagannath Temple: A Timeless Centre of Faith

Our visit to the Jagannath Temple was deeply moving. Despite the heavy crowds, we were fortunate to be guided by a priest known to one of my friends, which made the experience smoother, especially for the senior citizens in our group.

The darshan of Lord Jagannath, along with Balabhadra and Subhadra, was nothing short of divine. There is an indescribable sense of fulfilment that settles in the heart when you stand before the deities. We also had the opportunity to partake in the famed Mahaprasad (Bhog), an experience that felt both sacred and grounding.

A Brief History of the Jagannath Temple

The present structure of the Jagannath Temple was primarily built in the 12th century CE by Anantavarman Chodaganga Deva, the ruler of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. Originally a Shaivite, Anantavarman later embraced Vaishnavism, and under his patronage, the temple rose as a monumental centre of devotion.

The construction was completed or significantly expanded during the reign of his successors, particularly Anangabhima Deva, and further enriched by later Ganga and Gajapati rulers. Over centuries, the temple has endured multiple invasions and reconstructions, yet its spiritual core has remained unbroken.

At the heart of the temple are the wooden deities of Jagannath, Balabhadra, and Subhadra, carved from sacred neem wood and placed on the Ratnabedi. The worship of Jagannath is believed to predate the temple itself and likely evolved from ancient tribal traditions, later merging seamlessly with Vaishnavite philosophy.

What makes Lord Jagannath unique is this synthesis of faiths, Shaiva, Vaishnava, Buddhist, and tribal, coexisting within a single tradition. Jagannath is not just a deity here; he is a living presence deeply woven into Odisha’s cultural and spiritual identity.

A Night Steeped in Devotion

We spent nearly three hours within the temple premises, absorbing the chants, rituals, and rhythms of devotion before finally returning to our hotel. As we walked back through the lively streets of Puri, there was a quiet sense of contentment, a feeling that the day had offered both beauty and meaning in equal measure.

Art in the morning, the sea at sunset, and divinity at night, Day Three in Odisha was truly unforgettable.

From Temples to Tides: A Day at Chilika Lake

2026-01-05T19:33:46.557+05:30

Overview: Our journey continued from Bhubaneswar towards one of Odisha’s most celebrated natural wonders, Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon. Leaving the bustle of the city behind, the road gradually opened into quiet villages, wide skies, and salt-tinged air, hinting at the vast expanse of water that awaited us.

A Sacred Pause at Chandeshwar

En route to Chilika, we made a brief stop at a small hamlet called Chandeshwar, where we visited the revered Baba Chandihar Dev Temple, also known as the Chandihar Temple. This ancient shrine, dedicated to Lord Shiva worshipped as Baba Chandihar (the Lord of the Moon), is located on the Bhubaneshwar-Brahmapur road.

Built in the distinctive Kalinga architectural style, the temple stands as a fine example of Odisha’s temple heritage, with elegant brickwork and intricate carvings earning it the reputation of being a true “Gem of Odisha.” Devotees throng the temple to perform rituals like abhishekam and seek blessings for spiritual fulfilment and protection. The atmosphere here is deeply devotional yet grounded in rural simplicity, an unhurried pause before the journey resumed towards the lake.

Arrival at Chilika & OTDC Barkul

By noon, we reached the OTDC Resort at Barkul, situated along the tranquil waters of Chilika. Having previously stayed at tourism properties managed by KSTDC, MTDC, and APTDC, we arrived with certain expectations. While the resort scored well in some aspects, it unfortunately fell short in many others.

The rooms were spacious, and the balcony views overlooking Chilika Lake were undeniably beautiful, quiet waters stretching endlessly, reflecting the changing sky. However, the positives ended there.

The restaurant was poorly managed, to put it mildly. A simple lunch order took over an hour to arrive, and it was evident that several other guests were facing the same ordeal. The lack of coordination and urgency significantly dampened the overall experience.

A Cruise to Kalijai Island

In the afternoon, I headed to the boat booking counter and reserved a 3:30 pm cruise to Kalijai Island, home to the revered Kalijai Temple. Unfortunately, the experience at the counter mirrored what we had already encountered, unresponsive staff and unclear instructions, especially when questions were asked in Hindi.

That said, credit where it’s due, the cruise departed exactly on time. The boat ride across Chilika took about 30 minutes, offering glimpses of the vast lagoon and its calm, open waters. Reaching Kalijai Island, we visited the temple, spent some quiet moments there, and allowed ourselves a short break before the return journey.

However, the island itself was poorly maintained. Litter was visible across the area, and the lack of cleanliness was disappointing, especially given the religious and ecological importance of the site.

Back to Barkul: An Underwhelming End

We returned to the resort by 5:30 pm, hoping for a better experience during dinner. Unfortunately, the service remained below par. The staff appeared confused about menu options, orders were delayed, and overall coordination was lacking.

By the end of the day, it became clear that while Chilika Lake as a destination is extraordinary, the tourism infrastructure, particularly at this OTDC property, requires serious attention.

Final Thoughts

Chilika is a place of immense natural beauty, spiritual significance, and ecological importance. Sadly, mismanagement, poor service, and lack of basic upkeep can overshadow what should otherwise be a memorable experience.

I would rate this property quite low, and one sincerely hopes that the concerned authorities take constructive steps to improve facilities, staff training, and maintenance. With the right care and vision, Chilika truly deserves to shine as one of India’s finest wetland destinations.

The journey continues, but Chilika left us with mixed emotions.

A Spiritual Sojourn Begins: Bhubaneswar, the Temple City of Odisha

2026-01-03T11:23:00.000+05:30

Overview: Our journey into the spiritual heart of Odisha began at Bhubaneswar, the capital city and a living museum of ancient temples, legends, and living traditions.

We chose to stay at Hotel Royal 91, conveniently located near the railway station to make commuting easy. A heartfelt shout-out to the hotel staff for their warm hospitality, their friendliness, attentiveness, and prompt handling of every request made our stay comfortable and welcoming right from the start.

Lingaraj Temple: Where Stone Meets the Sacred

Our first stop was the majestic Lingaraj Temple, one of the most revered shrines in eastern India. As expected, a long queue snaked its way across the temple precincts. With a child and senior citizens in our group, we opted for the assistance of a panda (temple priest) who offered a shorter entry route for ₹500.

While the priest did explain the temple’s history and significance reasonably well, the experience soured upon entering the kitchen area, where we were pressured to donate a minimum of ₹2,500 for bhog. The coercive nature of this demand, and the absence of a receipt felt unfair and deeply disappointing. Donations, especially in places of faith, should stem from devotion, not obligation. Unfortunately, such practices are not uncommon in some temples of southern Odisha.

That said, nothing diminishes the sheer awe inspired by the Lingaraj Temple itself.

Rising to a height of 180 feet, the temple is an architectural marvel dating back to the 11th century AD. Renowned historian James Fergusson described it as “one of the finest examples of a purely Hindu temple in India.” It represents the pinnacle of the Kalinga School of Temple Architecture, for which Bhubaneswar is celebrated. The vast complex houses nearly 150 subsidiary shrines, each adding to its sacred gravity.

Architecturally, the temple is divided into four principal components:

Garbhagriha (Sanctum Sanctorum)
Yajna Mandapa (Hall of prayer)
Natya Mandapa (Dance and music hall)
Bhoga Mandapa (Hall for sacred offerings)

The intricate carvings on the temple walls, depicting daily life, rituals, and cultural activities, transform the space into more than just a place of worship. In many ways, the temple functioned as a medieval community centre, blending spirituality, art, and social life seamlessly.

The presiding deity, Lord Lingaraj, is worshipped as a Swayambhu (self-originated) Shivling and is uniquely revered as Hari Hara, symbolising the syncretism of Shaivism and Vaishnavism. This harmonious blending of sects perhaps reflects the evolving religious landscape of Odisha during the temple’s completion, coinciding with the rise of the Jagannath cult.

Kedar Gouri Temple: Odisha’s Eternal Love Story

Our next stop was the Kedar Gouri Temple, steeped in one of Odisha’s most poignant legends.

According to folklore, Kedar, a simple village boy, fell in love with Gauri, a village belle. Opposed by their families, the couple decided to elope. Tragedy struck when Kedar was killed by a tiger while searching for food. Overcome with grief, Gauri leapt into a nearby pond, ending her life.

Moved by this tale of eternal love, King Lalatendu Kesari is believed to have built this temple in their memory. The presiding deity, Lord Shiva as Kedareswar, and Goddess Gauri continue to bless devotees. Even today, young couples visit the temple seeking blessings for marital harmony.

The temple comes alive during Sitalasasthi, a summer festival held before the onset of monsoons, symbolising the divine marriage of Lord Lingaraj and Goddess Gauri, a ritual believed to invoke relief from the harsh summer heat.

Odisha State Museum: A Treasure Trove of Heritage

After lunch, we headed to the Odisha State Museum, and it turned out to be far more expansive than we had anticipated. Established originally in 1932 and housed in its current building since 1960, the museum is a comprehensive archive of Odisha’s rich cultural and historical legacy.

Spread across eleven sections, the museum includes:

Archaeology
Epigraphy
Numismatics
Armoury
Mining & Geology
Natural History
Art & Craft
Contemporary Art
Patta Painting
Anthropology
Palm-leaf Manuscripts

The origins of the museum trace back to the efforts of historians and scholars such as William Jones, Ghanashyam Das, N.C. Banerjee, and Harekrushna Mahatab, who first established it at Ravenshaw College in Cuttack. Over the decades, the museum moved locations multiple times before finding its permanent home, the foundation of which was laid by Dr. Rajendra Prasad, India’s first President.

Even after spending nearly two hours, we could only skim through its vast collections, a testament to how deep and layered Odisha’s history truly is.

Calling It a Day… For Now

As the day wound down, we returned with tired feet but fulfilled hearts. Bhubaneswar had already revealed layers of spirituality, architecture, folklore, and history, and this was just the beginning.

We still have a few more places in Bhubaneswar lined up, which we plan to explore towards the end of our journey.

Stay tuned.. there’s much more of Odisha waiting to unfold.

Motorcycling Along the Wild Cauvery: A Hidden Trail from Bengaluru to Gopinatham

2025-06-13T18:04:00.002+05:30

Overview: There’s something about a sunrise ride — the cool breeze, the quiet roads, the thrill of the unknown. I and my friend Sridhar had mapped a plan to ride along the banks of the Cauvery, heading towards the village of Gopinatham on the Karnataka side of the river, close to the famed Hogenakkal Falls.

We set off from Bengaluru at 4 AM, taking the scenic Malavalli–Kollegal route. The ride was smooth, with the early morning mist lifting gradually to reveal sun-dappled forests and quiet rural roads. We paused for a hearty breakfast near Kollegal — steaming idlis and crispy vadas that hit just right.

As we continued, we stumbled upon a poignant memorial — a simple stone pillar dedicated to the victims of forest brigand Veerappan. Directly opposite this site was a breathtaking gorge carved by the Cauvery, almost as if nature itself was bearing witness to history.

We eventually reached the quieter Karnataka side of Hogenakkal Falls. Unlike the bustling Tamil Nadu side, this area was surprisingly peaceful, giving us a serene experience of the famed waters. One unexpected delight was a trail strewn with fallen Indian Oak flowers, their fiery red petals forming a natural carpet along the riverbank — surreal and utterly photogenic.

Locals informed us that the coracle (or Theppa) crossing that allows passage to the other side was now functioning from Alambadi, about 4 km away. So we set off again, maneuvering our bikes through stretches of sandy terrain until we reached the quiet riverbank.

After a short 20-minute wait, the boatmen arrived. We loaded our motorcycles onto the coracle — a unique experience that felt both thrilling and oddly peaceful. In about 10 minutes, we were gliding across the Cauvery to the Tamil Nadu side.

The return journey took us through the scenic forests of Anchetty. The roads twisted and turned through dense greenery, offering us one last adventure before we stopped for lunch at Denkanikottai. After a satisfying meal, we hit the road again and reached Bengaluru in around 2.5 hours.

🗺️ Route Taken:

Bengaluru → Malavalli → Kollegal → Gopinatham → Alambadi → Anchetty → Denkanikottai → Bengaluru

📝 Quick Tips:

Start early to enjoy empty roads and catch the sunrise.
Carry water and snacks, especially post-Kollegal where stops are fewer.
Check local conditions before planning a coracle ride with bikes.
Respect local customs and forests, and ride responsibly.

🌊 Why This Trail?

Because the wild Cauvery is more than just a river — it’s a living story of landscapes, legends, and less-traveled paths. If you’re looking for an adventure just a few hours from Bengaluru, this ride offers all the right thrills — with zero crowds and maximum soul.

Teak, Temples, and Timelessness — A Day in Nilambur

2025-06-10T21:41:00.005+05:30

Overview: Sometimes, the most rewarding journeys happen in places that don’t scream for your attention. Nilambur, a quiet town at the foothills of the Nilgiris in Kerala, is one such gem—rich in history, soaked in greenery, and humming with stories that date back centuries.

My journey began in Bengaluru. I boarded a night bus and woke up to the lush landscape of Nilambur, where mist-laced hills welcomed me with a kind of calm you rarely find in city life. The town is best known for something unique—the world’s oldest teak plantation. But as I’d discover, there’s a lot more tucked away in its trails and temples.

Stop 1: Nilambur Kovilakam – A Palace by the River

After a quick breakfast, I headed to the Nilambur Kovilakam, a majestic structure about 30 km from Malappuram. Once home to the local royal family appointed by the Zamorin of Kozhikode, this palace sits peacefully on the banks of the Chaliyar River.

Walking into the Kovilakam feels like stepping into a living museum. The wooden beams and ceilings are adorned with intricate carvings, and the faded frescoes still whisper stories of a grand past. It was built following traditional Kerala architectural principles and is a marvel of craftsmanship. More than just a historical site, this palace reflects a time when art, governance, and nature lived in harmony.

Nilambur Kovilam

Stop 2: Conolly’s Plot – The Birthplace of Teak Forestry in India

A short ride from the Kovilakam brought me to Conolly’s Plot, the world’s oldest organized teak plantation. This site, established in 1846, owes its name to H.V. Conolly, the then-Collector of Malabar, and to Chathu Menon, the man who made it happen.

Even today, the plot is alive with towering teak trees, including Kannimari, the first teak sapling planted here. It’s not just a forest—it’s a slice of forestry history. The area is bordered by two rivers, Chaliyar and Kurinjipuzha, and dense forest—making it incredibly scenic and serene.

I found a quiet spot under the shade of a tree and sat for a while. You could almost hear the rustling leaves narrate stories of colonial administrators, wartime timber demands, and Kerala’s deep respect for its natural wealth.

Conolly's Plot

Stop 3: Teak Museum – Where Timber Tells Tales

Next on the trail was the Teak Museum, located just a few kilometres away. Run by the Kerala Forest Research Institute, this is probably one of the most unique museums I’ve visited. It’s fully dedicated to teak wood and its significance in Kerala’s history and culture.

The museum starts strong—with a 55-year-old teak tree and its sprawling root system right at the entrance. Inside, the exhibits walk you through everything from ancient teak trees and seeds to miniature Uru boats built from teak, and even traditional Kerala granaries.

What stood out most was a 480-year-old teak stump brought from Kottayam and the detailed displays showing how teak is grown—from seed to sapling to tree. There's also a beautiful 800-meter nature trail around the museum filled with native trees and birds—a mini forest escape in itself.

Teak Museum

Old DFO Bungalow

Skywalk near the Bungalow

Lunch at Nayana Restaurant – A True Kerala Treat

By now, I had worked up quite an appetite. I stopped at Nayana Restaurant, a simple vegetarian joint known for its local meals. Their traditional Kerala sadya—served on a banana leaf—was just what I needed. It was soulful, flavourful, and comforting after all that walking.

Nayana Restaurant

Final Leg: Scenic Train Ride from Nilambur Road to Palghat

Post lunch, I made my way to Nilambur Road Railway Station. The station itself is small, but it’s surrounded by trees, adding to its charm. I boarded the Nilambur Road–Palghat Express, a short but scenic ride through Kerala’s countryside.

As the train moved past rivers, fields, and little forest stretches, I sat by the window, watching the day wind down in shades of green and gold. It was the perfect end to a day filled with heritage, nature, and quiet wonder.

Nilambur Road Railway station

Final Thoughts

Nilambur is not a loud destination. It doesn’t try to impress you. It just quietly enchants you—with its teak trees, royal tales, old train tracks, and kind people. For anyone looking to explore the lesser-known corners of Kerala, Nilambur is a beautiful, meaningful place to start.
And sometimes, that’s all you need—one good journey to remind you how deep the roots of a place (and of yourself) can go.

Day 7 – Kitpi to Shergaon: Tunnels, Monasteries & Cultural Treasures

2025-05-04T10:31:00.000+05:30

Overview: Day 7 began early as we departed from the quaint village of Kitpi, embarking on a long drive towards Shergaon. Unlike Day 3 when we crossed the snow-laden Sela Pass, this time we opted for a more modern route—the recently inaugurated Sela Tunnel.

At an elevation of 3,000 metres (9,800 ft), the Sela Tunnel is a marvel of engineering and a game-changer for the region. It holds the distinction of being the world’s longest twin-lane tunnel at this altitude and forms a critical link between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, ensuring year-round connectivity to Tawang. The twin tunnels—Tunnel 1 (980 m) and Tunnel 2 (1,555 m)—are connected by a 1.2 km link road and significantly reduce travel time while avoiding the treacherous winter conditions of the Sela Pass, located 400 metres higher.

This strategic infrastructure project, executed under BRO’s Project Vartak, not only supports civilian mobility but also strengthens defence logistics along the Indo-China border. One can’t help but marvel at the precision and vision behind such a construction.

Sela Tunnel

After crossing the tunnel, we made a stop at Bomdila for lunch and indulged in some local souvenir shopping—tiny tokens from a high-altitude market full of warmth and character.

Our next destination was the stunning Chillipam Monastery, officially called Sangngag Choekhor Dargyeling Monastery. Nestled atop a hill near Rupa, this lesser-known gem offers sweeping views of valleys and forests below. Its peaceful surroundings and vivid architecture made for a memorable visit, and it’s easily one of the most scenic monasteries in Arunachal.

Chillipam Monastery

From there, we continued to Morshing village to explore the Lama Tenpai Dronmey Museum. We were guided by the passionate Rinchin Norbu, whose dedication to preserving Monpa heritage and the traditions of Morshing, Sanglem, and Domkho villages was truly inspiring. The museum houses a fascinating collection of handcrafted ritual masks, ceremonial items, and historical artifacts—a living archive of the region’s cultural legacy.

Lama Tenpai Dronmey Museum

Our day ended as we reached Shergaon under the night sky, checking into Oakley Groves Resort. While darkness shrouded the view on arrival, we were promised a visual treat in the morning—and it more than delivered.

Oakley Groves Resort

From Sacred Caves to Whispering Waterfalls – A Spiritual Day in Zemithang & Beyond - Day 6 of Arunachal trip

2025-04-29T14:44:00.004+05:30

Overview: Our sixth day in Arunachal Pradesh began with the serenity of Zemithang, a quaint village embraced by rolling hills and crisp mountain air. Just a short stroll from our homestay, we found ourselves drawn to a quiet cave shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. Tucked into the rocks and shrouded in mist, the cave housed a natural Shivalinga radiating a deep spiritual energy. It was the perfect way to start the day—introspective, peaceful, and humbling.

Shiva temple at Zemithang

After breakfast, we checked out and began our journey to Kinzamane, a place not just beautiful but also deeply etched into history. It was here, in 1959, that His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama first stepped onto Indian soil during his dramatic escape from Tibet. Disguised as a soldier, he traversed the treacherous mountains for days on foot and horseback, accompanied by trusted officials and family. At Kinzamane stands a sacred tree, believed to have miraculously grown from the very staff the Dalai Lama struck into a rock. It’s more than a tree—it’s a symbol of hope, diplomacy, and the spiritual bond between India and Tibet.

Holy Tree at Khinzamane

Khinzamane

From Kinzamane, we returned to Zemithang to visit one of the region’s most significant Buddhist landmarks—the Gorsam Chorten. Towering at about 28 meters, this grand stupa is believed to have been constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries by Lama Sangye Pradhar. It closely resembles the famous Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu and was intended to suppress malevolent forces disturbing the region. Encircled by fluttering prayer flags and humming prayer wheels, the stupa hosts the Gorsam Kora festival, drawing thousands of devotees each year. Nearby, a magnificent statue of Guru Padmasambhava gazes down into the valley, further blessing the sacred space.

This stupa also has a quiet connection to the Dalai Lama. During his escape, he is said to have rested here briefly. The walking stick he carried, later planted at Gorong Kukpa, grew into a revered tree, adding another layer of reverence to the area.

Gorsam Chorten

Our journey then took a scenic turn as we made our way back towards Lumla, stopping by several gushing waterfalls cascading down the mountain slopes. These natural wonders offered refreshing interludes between deeply spiritual experiences.

Waterfalls on the way

In Lumla, we visited the peaceful and powerful Tara Devi Temple, home to a strikingly large idol of Jetsun Dolma (White Tara). Seated serenely with a gentle smile, White Tara represents compassion and longevity. Beneath the statue lies a tranquil prayer hall where the scent of incense lingers in the air, and the chants create a meditative atmosphere. Devotees come here seeking protection, prosperity, and healing blessings.

Pleasant journey in the woods

Tara Devi temple

As the day came to a close, we wound our way to Kitpi, where our homestay awaited amidst the quiet hills. It was a day of reflection, reverence, and natural beauty—one that stitched together faith, history, and the whispers of the Himalayas.

Kitpi

High Altitude Dreams – Bumla Pass, Sangestar Tso, and Zemithang: Day 5 of Arunachal Pradesh trip

2025-04-28T16:01:00.000+05:30

Overview: Our fifth day in Arunachal Pradesh was a soul-stirring journey through sacred spaces, snowy landscapes, hidden meadows, and vibrant festivals. Every turn of the road brought with it a new wonder.

A Spiritual Morning: Tawang Monastery and Buddha Statue

The day began with an early start in Tawang town, where we first completed the formalities of collecting the special permit needed to visit Bumla Pass.

With the paperwork done, we made our way to the majestic Tawang Monastery, the largest monastery in India and the second largest in the world. Perched dramatically against a backdrop of soaring mountains, the monastery is a living center of spirituality, home to monks, ancient scriptures, and stunning murals.

Walking through its prayer halls, feeling the peace in the air, and hearing the gentle hum of chants was an experience that centered us for the adventure ahead.

After that, we visited the towering Buddha statue of Tawang, standing tall and serene amidst the clouds. Overlooking the valley, the statue radiates calm and strength, blessing everyone who visits.

It felt fitting to start such a momentous day with these powerful symbols of peace and resilience.

Sardar Patel statue at Tawang

Tawang Monastery

Buddha statue, Tawang

The Majestic Gateway: Bumla Pass

Our journey then took us higher, to Bumla Pass, located 37 kilometers from Tawang at an altitude of 15,000 feet (4,572 meters). This strategic and sensitive pass along the Indo-China border is a place where the vastness of the snow-covered world stuns you into silence.

The dramatic whiteness of the landscape, the biting cold winds, and the sight of the Indian Army braving these extreme conditions filled us with both awe and gratitude.

Travel Tip: Always check weather conditions before starting and remember that visiting Bumla requires a special permit stamped by the Indian Army.

Road to Bumla Pass

Landscapes on the way to Bumla Pass

War memorial near Bumla Pass

Bumla Pass

Mystical Reflections at Sangestar Tso (Madhuri Lake)

From Bumla, we descended towards the shimmering beauty of Sangestar Tso, also called Madhuri Lake after a Bollywood shoot here.

Formed by an earthquake, this lake is like a frozen dream—submerged tree trunks rise from its icy waters, and the entire scene is framed by snow-capped peaks. The cold air, the silence, and the unspoiled beauty of the place created a truly mystical atmosphere.

Madhuri lake (Sangetsar Lake)

Hidden Meadows: A Secret Trail to Zemithang

Instead of taking the usual route back, we decided to follow a lesser-used road towards Zemithang.

This detour turned out to be pure magic—green meadows rolled endlessly, yaks grazed freely, and wildflowers splashed color across the landscape. The fresh mountain air and the sense of untouched wilderness made us want to stop every few minutes to take it all in.

It’s in such unexpected moments that the true soul of the mountains reveals itself.

Kee Monastery

On the way to Zemithang

Meadows on the way to Zemithang

Flowers blooming on the way to Zemithang

Warmth and Festivities at Zemithang

As evening approached, we reached the remote village of Zemithang, near the Bhutan border. Our stay at the charming Pangchen Homestay was marked by simple comforts and warm-hearted hospitality.

To our delight, we learned that the Losar Festival, marking the Tibetan New Year, was in its final day of celebration. We had the incredible fortune to witness the closing ceremony—vibrant dances, music, and a colorful gathering that brought the community together in joy and hope.

It was the perfect closing chapter to a day that began with prayers, touched the skies, wandered through secret meadows, and ended in festive spirit.

Losar Festival at Zemithang

Welcome drink at Losar festival in Zemithang

A Warm Embrace in the Eastern Himalayas: Our Stay at Kitpi Kee Homestay near Tawang

2025-04-26T11:09:00.004+05:30

Overview: Kitpi, a peaceful village near Tawang, unfolded before us like a dream. But what made it truly memorable was our stay at Lham Norbu ji’s homestay — a place where warmth, tradition, and modern comfort meet.

Kitpi Landscape

From the moment we arrived, we were embraced with unparalleled hospitality. Norbuji greeted us with a glass of locally brewed wine made from ragi and barley. It wasn’t just a drink — it came with a beautiful ritual. According to local custom, the yak butter added on top of the wine forms a pattern that reveals something about the person it’s offered to. Watching this unfold inside their traditional wooden home felt like stepping into a living piece of folklore.

Lham Norbu's house in Kitpi

Traditional Tawang Wine

Way to Attic

After the welcome, we climbed up to the attic — a hidden treasure trove! Norbuji has lovingly preserved old vessels, cookware, and crockery that once belonged to his ancestors. He’s turned it into a mini museum, keeping the spirit of his heritage alive for future generations.

Norbuji's home museum

House temple

Walk of Innocence

Though the homestay itself is a modern house with all the facilities one could need, the soul of the place remains rooted in local culture. The food we were served was unlike any momo we’ve had across India — soft, delicately spiced, and soul-satisfying. The real surprise was the tea buns served with yak butter sauce — a rich, comforting delicacy that’s hard to find elsewhere.

The best part? Our daughter had a wonderful time playing with Norbuji’s daughter — a bond forged beyond language and culture.

This wasn’t just a stay. It was a soulful exchange, a glimpse into a life deeply connected with nature, tradition, and kindness.

If you're heading to Tawang, don't miss Kitpi — and definitely don’t miss staying with Lham Norbu ji and his lovely family.

Momos at Kitpi Kee Homestay

Tea Buns

Yak Butter sauce

Day 4: Through Snowy Heights to Tales of Bravery in Arunachal Pradesh

2025-04-21T15:59:00.002+05:30

Overview: Our journey on Day 3 led us deeper into the mystical mountains of Arunachal Pradesh, from the serene valley town of Dirang to the quaint hamlet of Kitpi near Tawang. What awaited us en route was nothing short of breathtaking — both in altitude and in experience.

❄️ Through the Snow-Clad Sela Pass

As we left Dirang early in the morning, the landscape gradually transformed. Our vehicle climbed through winding mountain roads, until we reached Sela Pass, a majestic high-altitude gateway standing tall at 4,170 meters (13,700 feet). Often mispronounced, the word "Se La" literally translates to “Sela Pass,” where “La” means pass in Tibetan.

The cold was biting, but the experience was ethereal. Fresh snow dusted the path, and a sense of tranquility blanketed the region. The Sela Lake, sitting close to the summit, was half-frozen and shimmered in the morning light like a glass mirror nestled among snowfields. Locals say there are around 101 lakes in this area, each considered sacred in Tibetan Buddhism — Sela Lake being among the most revered.

This mountain pass is not just a visual marvel; it’s a crucial artery that links the town of Tawang with Dirang and further down to Guwahati. Despite its high altitude and frequent snow cover, the pass remains accessible for most of the year, except during heavy snowfalls or landslides. It also holds the distinction of being among the highest motorable passes in the world.

Sela Pass

Sela Lake

🪖 A Tribute at Jaswant Garh Memorial

Descending from Sela Pass, our next stop was a solemn and stirring one — the Jaswant Garh War Memorial. Located near Nuranang, this site commemorates the exceptional bravery of Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat of the 4th Garhwal Rifles. His tale isn’t just etched in stone — it echoes in the mountains and in the hearts of every Indian who visits.

In 1962, during the Sino-Indian War, Jaswant Singh held his ground for an incredible 72 hours, resisting an overwhelming Chinese offensive single-handedly. He inflicted significant casualties on the enemy before laying down his life in defense of his post. His grit and gallantry earned him the Maha Vir Chakra, India’s second-highest military decoration for valor.

What’s even more touching is the way his legacy is kept alive — with a temple-like memorial where soldiers continue to stand guard, offering daily rituals in his memory. It’s not just a monument, but a living shrine of dedication and patriotism, standing tall at 10,000 feet and just 25 km before Tawang.

Jaswantgarh Memorial

🌊 Thunderous Beauty of Jung/Nuranang Falls

From this emotionally powerful place, we headed to nature’s own symphony — the Nuranang Falls, also known as Jung Falls or Bong Bong Falls. The falls are located near the small town of Jang, just off the main highway and a short drive away.

Towering at a height of 100 meters, the waterfall plunges down with such ferocity that you can feel its mist from a fair distance. Surrounded by lush greenery and cliffs, it’s one of the most impressive waterfalls I’ve ever witnessed. At its base lies the Jang Hydel Plant, a micro-hydro project that utilizes the river’s power to generate electricity for local settlements.

Interestingly, the Nuranang River, which feeds the falls, traces its origins to the northern slopes of Sela Pass. It joins the Tawang River a little further downstream. The river, as well as the falls, carry with them a poignant tale from the 1962 war. They are named in memory of Nura (or Noora), a local Monpa girl who aided Rifleman Jaswant Singh during the battle. Her act of courage and compassion is woven into the fabric of this landscape, making the place not just scenic, but soulful.

Jang Falls

Mysterious Chakzam Bridge

As we made our way from Nuranang Falls towards Kitpi, another gem awaited us—Chakzam Bridge, a rare relic of Himalayan engineering that carries centuries of legend and legacy.

Hidden amidst the towering Himalayan ranges and gushing waters of the Tawang Chu River, this bridge is no ordinary crossing. Known as Chakzam, meaning “Iron Bridge” in classical Tibetan, it was originally built in the 15th century by the legendary Tibetan engineer, Tangton Gyalpo. A disciple of the 1st Dalai Lama, Gyalpo was not just a philosopher and Buddhist master, but also a poet, visionary, and master bridge builder—earning him the title Iron Bridge Yogi.

It’s believed he constructed over a hundred iron chain bridges across the Himalayan region, including in Bhutan and Tibet. While Europe was still mastering 20-metre spans, Gyalpo was designing 100-metre iron marvels suspended over roaring rivers and steep gorges.

The Chakzam Bridge in Tawang, connecting Kitpi and Mukto, is one of just two surviving iron bridges of his in Arunachal Pradesh. Though modern support structures have since been added, including a newer suspension bridge beside it and a safety net underneath, the original construction still stands—held aloft by two iron chains, now over 600 years old.

As we approached the bridge, steep stone steps led us down through thick mountain air. At either end stood simple stupas guarding the bridge, echoing the spirituality of the land. From up close, the bridge felt like a living artifact—iron chains underfoot, woven wooden panels forming the floor, and brightly fluttering prayer flags lining the sides.

Walking across was an experience in itself—the bridge swayed and bounced, the river thundered beneath, and the mountains surrounded us like ancient sentinels. It wasn’t just a crossing—it was a journey through time.

Chakzam Bridge

Final Thoughts

Day 3 of our Arunachal journey was a blend of natural wonders, historical remembrance, and spiritual serenity. From the icy magic of Sela Pass to the bravery enshrined at Jaswant Garh, and finally the thunderous beauty of Nuranang Falls — it was a day that stirred every emotion and left us humbled.

If you’re ever in this part of the country, don’t just pass through these locations — pause, reflect, and soak in their stories. Because up here in the high Himalayas, every rock and river whispers tales of nature, faith, and heroism.

A Peaceful Day in Dirang – Snowy Peaks, Stupas & Hot Springs | Arunachal Pradesh Day 3

2025-04-17T21:42:00.000+05:30

Overview: After two eventful days exploring the beauty of Arunachal Pradesh, Day 3 in Dirang turned out to be a soul-stirring experience, filled with calm landscapes, spiritual encounters, and warm moments—both literally and emotionally.

🌄 Waking Up to Snow-Kissed Views

The day began at Brokpa Estate, our charming homestay in Dirang. As we stepped outside, we were greeted by a bright, sunny morning with crystal-clear visibility of the snow-covered mountains at a distance—thanks to the overnight snowfall. It was the kind of view that instantly lifts your mood and reminds you of the magic of the mountains.

🛕 Exploring the Sacred Circles of Mandala Top

Post breakfast, we set off to Mandala Top, located around 30 minutes from Dirang town. At an altitude of nearly 10,000 ft, this unique site is home to 108 Buddhist stupas, beautifully placed in concentric circles. Each stupa is etched with the sacred mantra Om Mani Padme Hum and was built by individual families from the region—making it not just a spiritual site, but also a strong symbol of community bonding.

Surrounded by pine forests, prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, and absolute silence, Mandala Top felt like a world far removed from everyday chaos.

🧘‍♂️ A Spiritual Pause at Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery

Back in Dirang, we visited the elegant and peaceful Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery. More than just a place of worship, this monastery is a learning center for Tibetan Buddhism. The name was given by His Holiness the Dalai Lama, and it translates to “Place of Flourishing of the Buddha’s Speech”.

With its serene ambience, colorful murals, and panoramic views of the surrounding valley, the monastery invites you to slow down and just breathe.

🥟 A Plate of Momos and a Warm Break

By now, it was lunchtime—and what better way to refuel than with a plate of steaming hot momos at a local restaurant? Freshly made and perfectly spiced, they were just what we needed after a cold morning in the hills.

♨️ Nature’s Warmth: Dirang Hot Springs

After lunch, we made our way to the natural hot springs of Dirang, where the water maintains a steady temperature of around 35°C. Nestled near the riverbank, the springs are a popular stop for both locals and travelers. The warm water flowing through the rocks felt soothing against the chilly mountain air—like nature’s own spa.

🌅 Sunset by the Riverfront

As the sun began its descent, we headed to the Dirang riverfront. The quiet gurgle of the river, golden reflections on the water, and cool breeze made it an ideal place to unwind. We could have easily spent hours here, simply sitting by the rocks and soaking in the moment.

🍵 Wrapping Up with Chai and Pakoras

Back at Brokpa Estate, we ended our day with a plate of crispy pakoras and hot tea. It was a cozy close to a day that blended nature, culture, and calm in perfect harmony.

📌 Travel Tips for Dirang:

Best time to visit: October to April for snow and clear skies
Mandala Top: Try to visit early to avoid crowds and catch the best light
Hot Springs: Carry a towel or extra clothes if you plan to take a dip
Stay: Brokpa Estate is a great option for scenic views and peaceful stays

Visiting Arunachal Part 2: Stepping into Arunachal: Orchids, Waterfalls & Winding Roads

2025-04-16T17:15:00.002+05:30

🌿 First Glimpse of the Eastern Himalayas

Crossing into Arunachal Pradesh felt like flipping to a new chapter — the terrain changed, the air grew lighter, and the landscapes began to breathe life into our journey. As winding roads unfolded before us, we embraced our first experiences in this enchanting state — a soft blend of missed moments, flowing rivers, and mountain calm.

🌸 Tipi Orchid Research Centre: Missed, but Memorable

Just beyond Bhalukpong, we headed toward the much-talked-about Orchid Research and Development Centre at Tipi. Nestled along the banks of the Kameng River, this center is a vibrant hub of orchid conservation and research.

Unfortunately, we arrived just past the closing hour — 4:30 PM, when the gates had already shut for the day.

Though we couldn’t step inside, standing at the entrance and imagining the lush greenhouses, shaded orchidaria, and rows of rare blooms was enchanting in itself. With over 10,000 orchid species, including several rare and endangered varieties, this facility isn’t just for tourists — it’s a vital sanctuary for floral biodiversity in Arunachal.

💧 Nichiphula Waterfall: A Serene Pause

Further along the route, we made a quick stop at Nichiphula Waterfall, a quiet gem tucked into the hillside. The waterfall wasn’t grand or thundering — instead, it fell like a thin silver thread over emerald slopes, painting a picture of subtle beauty.

We stood there for a few minutes — no noise, no crowds, just the soothing sound of trickling water and the endless green of the valley before us. These are the pauses that remind you to slow down and breathe.

🌊 Kameng River: The Calm Before the Adventure

As we descended toward Dirang, we met the Kameng River, flowing gracefully along the edge of the valley. Its turquoise waters shimmered under the afternoon sun. We passed a river rafting center, though it looked like rafting season hadn’t kicked off yet. Still, the sight of the calm river meandering through thick forests made for a scenic treat.

🏔️ Restful Retreat at Brokpa Resort, Dirang

Our day ended in the charming high-altitude town of Dirang, where we checked into the peaceful Brokpa Resort for the night. Tucked amidst misty hills, the resort offered a warm and cozy respite. With traditional touches and modern comforts, it was the perfect place to unwind and let the mountain silence lull us into rest.

The stars above were brighter here, and the chill in the air brought a certain stillness that only Himalayan towns can offer.

✨ Reflections

Our first day in Arunachal wasn’t packed with touristy highlights — and perhaps that’s what made it so special. From the silent grace of a missed orchid garden to the whispering waterfall and quiet riverside views, it was a gentle invitation into the deeper wonders of the region.

Sometimes, the journey begins not with grand checklists, but with quiet reminders of how beautiful the simple things can be.

Planning to visit Arunachal soon?
Don’t forget to check timings for nature centers, keep an eye out for offbeat waterfalls, and always carry a warm layer — the mountains are full of surprises. 💚

📌 Travel Tips:

Tipi Orchid Centre closes at 4 PM — try to reach by 3:30 to explore fully.
Nichiphula Waterfall is a great stopover for a short break and photo op.
Rafting in Kameng is seasonal — check with local guides before planning.
Brokpa Resort in Dirang is a great choice for a cozy overnight stay.

Visiting Arunachal Part 1: A Wild Beginning: Our Pobitora Experience in Assam

2025-04-15T10:30:00.006+05:30

Overview: Before we ventured into the misty hills of Arunachal Pradesh, we decided to make a wild little pitstop — quite literally — at Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary in Assam. Just an hour or so from Guwahati, this hidden gem turned out to be the perfect curtain-raiser for our northeastern adventure.

Where the Rhinos Roam

Pobitora may not be as widely known as Kaziranga, but don’t let that fool you — this sanctuary is bursting with life. It’s most famous for its thriving population of the Greater One-Horned Rhinoceros, and if you’re lucky (as we were), you don’t have to wait long to spot one grazing in the open grasslands. What makes Pobitora truly unique is its incredibly high density of rhinos — they seem to rule the land here.

The sanctuary spreads across a patchwork of wetlands and tall grass fields that stretch out to the horizon, framed by gentle hills and the ever-mysterious Brahmaputra River not too far away.

Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary

Rhino at

Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary

More Than Just Rhinos

While the rhinos are undoubtedly the stars of the show, Pobitora offers much more to the patient observer. We caught glimpses of wild boars and even a few water buffaloes trudging through the marshy terrain. The forested patches that surround the grasslands are believed to shelter elusive creatures like leopards, porcupines, pangolins, and capped langurs — although they mostly prefer to keep to the shadows.

Wild Boar at

Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary

Water Buffalos at

Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary

What truly caught us off guard, though, was the birdlife. Over 100 species of birds, both resident and migratory, find refuge in these wetlands. For bird lovers, this place is nothing short of paradise. From elegant storks to colourful kingfishers and large flocks of ducks floating gently on the waters, it was a visual and auditory feast.

Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary

Conservation with a Cause

Pobitora is more than just a place to see wildlife — it’s a testament to successful conservation. It has become one of the core sites contributing to India’s efforts to revive and redistribute the rhino population, with several individuals having been relocated to other parks as part of a visionary breeding and conservation initiative.

Despite its smaller size compared to other sanctuaries, it packs a powerful punch when it comes to biodiversity and ecological richness.

Where We Stayed

After a long day in the wild, we checked in at Zizina Otis Resort, a cozy property located right next to the sanctuary. The stay was peaceful, surrounded by greenery and filled with the soothing sounds of nature. It gave us the perfect base to relax, sip some chai, and reflect on the magical day we’d just had.

Zizina Otis Resort

Final Thoughts

If you’re heading to Northeast India and have a day to spare before your main itinerary, Pobitora is an excellent detour. Close to Guwahati yet deeply immersed in nature, it’s a rare pocket of wilderness that lets you get up close with India’s majestic rhinos and so much more.

It wasn’t just a wildlife stop — it was a meaningful moment that set the tone for the rest of our journey. Pobitora reminded us that sometimes, the lesser-known places offer the richest experiences.

Bethamangala & Seethagudda: A Hidden Gem of Ancient Wonders and Natural Beauty

2025-03-22T15:38:00.005+05:30

Just a stone's throw away from Bengaluru and Kolar, tucked in the serene folds of the Kolar District, lies a land that feels as though it’s been pulled straight out of a fantastical storybook. The Rock Garden at Seethagudda is a mystical wonder that beckons explorers, history enthusiasts, and nature lovers alike. With its captivating natural formations, remnants of ancient civilizations, and breathtaking vistas, it offers a glimpse into the past like no other place in Karnataka.

Unveiling the Magic of Seethagudda

Once the site of an ancient fort, Seethagudda is now a hidden archaeological treasure. Its most intriguing feature lies in the pyramidical rock formations that stand tall near a tranquil water body. These oddly shaped rocks, sculpted by the forces of nature over millennia, evoke an almost otherworldly feeling as you make your way through the landscape. The air here seems thick with a sense of ancient energy, and every corner you turn presents a new opportunity to gaze at the wonders that have been preserved by time.

Walking through the Rock Garden is like stepping into a forgotten world. The hike to the area is gentle and easy, making it accessible for visitors of all ages. As you climb higher, the view expands to reveal the lush surroundings and the expansive landscape beyond. The peaceful atmosphere is perfect for reflection or simply soaking in the beauty of the environment. It’s no surprise that many refer to this place as a haven for those seeking solitude or a deeper connection to the natural world.

Nature’s Masterpiece: The Landscape of Seethagudda

Seethagudda’s landscape is nothing short of spectacular. The pyramidical rock formations dominate the terrain, their jagged edges standing in stark contrast to the lush greenery that envelops the area. The rocks are a marvel of geological wonder, shaped by wind, water, and time into towering structures that seem almost too perfect to be of natural origin.

The water body near these formations adds an element of tranquility to the place. The stillness of the water, coupled with the towering rocks, creates a serene and almost ethereal ambiance. This is a spot where nature’s beauty can be fully appreciated — where the natural world, free from modern distractions, unfolds in all its glory.

For those who enjoy photography, Seethagudda provides countless opportunities to capture awe-inspiring vistas. The dramatic rock formations, the verdant landscape, and the historical remnants create a backdrop that is both stunning and rich in history. Whether you’re an avid photographer or simply someone who loves to capture memories, you’ll find plenty of frames worth clicking here.

Pyramid at Seethagudda

A Journey Through Time: The Prehistoric Roots of Seethagudda

The mystique of Seethagudda isn’t just in its natural beauty — it’s also in the remnants of a prehistoric mining site that give this place an almost sacred significance. While walking through the rock garden, it’s easy to imagine how ancient civilizations might have once inhabited these very lands. Archaeological findings suggest that Seethagudda was a center of mining activities thousands of years ago. The prehistoric tools and evidence of past settlements add an element of mystery, hinting at the lives that once thrived in this area.

Adding to the intrigue are the megalithic remains found throughout the region. These stone structures, believed to be ancient burial sites or places of worship, hold the secrets of a bygone era. The sense of connection to the distant past is palpable here, making it an ideal spot for anyone fascinated by ancient history and archaeology.

Seethagudda

Bethamangala Barrage: A Historical Footnote

As you explore the area, it’s worth taking the time to visit the nearby Bethamangala Barrage on the Palar River, just a short distance away from Seethagudda. This historical structure has stood the test of time, bearing witness to centuries of water management and architectural ingenuity. Built to divert water into the irrigation channels of the region, the Bethamangala Barrage has an interesting history.

Inscriptions found on the barrage recount incidents of embankment breaches dating as far back as 950 AD and 1155 AD, providing invaluable insights into the region's water engineering history. These ancient records, etched in stone, transport you to a time when communities relied heavily on these water bodies to sustain their livelihoods. The Barrage serves as a reminder of how civilizations have historically worked with nature to shape the land around them.

Route to Bethamangala

Bethamangala

Perfect Weekend Getaway: What to Expect and How to Plan

Seethagudda is the perfect destination for a weekend getaway, offering both adventure and relaxation in equal measure. Whether you’re an avid hiker, history buff, or someone who simply enjoys quiet moments in nature, this place offers a little something for everyone.

What to Pack:

Comfortable hiking shoes: The hike to the Rock Garden is easy, but good footwear is essential.
Camera: You’ll want to capture the beauty and serenity of the area.
Water and snacks: While there are no commercial facilities in the immediate area, bringing your own supplies will ensure you’re well-prepared for your hike.
A good pair of binoculars: The surrounding nature offers great opportunities for birdwatching.

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Seethagudda is during the cooler months from October to March, when the weather is pleasant for outdoor activities and exploration.

Nearby Accommodation: While Seethagudda is relatively remote, there are several options for accommodation in nearby towns like Kolar and Bangarpet. These towns offer a range of options, from budget hotels to more luxurious stays.

Gombeyamane: Where Art, Heritage, and Innovation Meet

2025-03-08T11:54:00.004+05:30

Overview: Nestled in Bengaluru, Gombeyamane stands as a testament to centuries of sculpting tradition, seamlessly blending time-honored artistry with modern innovation. Founded in 2017 by M Sridhar Murthy, a master sculptor with deep familial roots in the craft, this artistic space has become a hub for sculpting enthusiasts, artisans, and admirers alike. With a lineage that traces back over 200 years, Sridhar’s family has played a significant role in shaping India’s artistic heritage, contributing to the courts of Mysuru, Vijayanagara, and even Tipu Sultan.

A Legacy Carved in Stone

Sridhar Murthy hails from Shikaripur in Shivamogga district, where his great-grandfather, Thippaji, gained recognition for his artistic talent at a young age. Family tales suggest that Tipu Sultan himself commissioned a portrait from Thippaji, impressed by his ability to capture regal grandeur. Over the generations, this passion for sculpting continued, with Sridhar’s father, Shilpi Kashinath, earning accolades such as the Janakachari Award and the Karnataka Rajyotsava Award for his exceptional work, including significant contributions to the towering Shiva statue at Murudeshwar.

Carrying Forward the Art

Despite earning a degree in civil engineering, Sridhar’s heart was always drawn to sculpting. Under his father’s mentorship, he honed his skills, working on large-scale projects before taking over the family’s artistic responsibilities after his father’s sudden passing in 2000. One of his earliest and most renowned works was completing the Shiva statue at Murudeshwar, which was installed in 2004 and has since become an iconic spiritual landmark.

His artistry gained widespread recognition, leading to prestigious commissions such as:

The Basaveshwara statue in London, installed by the Government of India.
The 85-ft Shiva statue at Solophok in Sikkim.
The Basaveshwara statue in Gadag, prominently placed in the middle of a lake.
The 85-ft Hanuman statue in Madhya Pradesh’s Chaitanya City.

The Birth of Gombe Mane

After relocating to Bengaluru in 2010, Sridhar searched for the perfect space to set up his sculpting factory. He found an ideal plot in Peenya, where he built both his home and a workshop. As the site gained popularity among locals, it came to be known as the Gombe (Doll) Factory. Recognizing the name’s familiarity, Sridhar officially established Gombe Mane in 2017, with the aim of expanding his reach and making sculpting more accessible to aspiring artists.

At Gombe Mane, Sridhar conducts apprenticeship programs, training over 1,000 artisans annually. These programs provide hands-on experience in traditional and contemporary sculpting techniques, empowering young artists to either join his team or establish their own independent ventures.

Innovation in Sculpting: The Fusion of Tradition and Technology

While Sridhar remains rooted in traditional sculpting methods, he constantly pushes boundaries with new materials and techniques. A visit to Madame Tussauds in Singapore in 2018 sparked his curiosity about wax statues, but he quickly realized that wax was high-maintenance and required controlled environments. This challenge led to an innovative breakthrough: the use of silicone and fiberglass to create lifelike yet durable sculptures.

His collaborative research with fellow sculptor Anand from Belagavi resulted in a unique technique where a fiberglass skeleton provides a sturdy foundation, while sculpted silicone adds intricate details. This process was first applied to a statue of Srinivas in Koppal, demonstrating the potential of modern materials in traditional artistry.

The Road Ahead: Sculpting the Future

Sridhar’s relentless pursuit of excellence has solidified his reputation as a perfectionist. His ability to adapt, innovate, and mentor the next generation ensures that India’s sculpting heritage remains not just preserved but also continually evolving. At Gombeyamane, every sculpture tells a story—of devotion, craftsmanship, and the timeless legacy of a family that has dedicated itself to the art of bringing stone, metal, and silicone to life.

For anyone passionate about art, heritage, or simply witnessing tradition meet innovation, Gombe Mane offers an experience like no other—a space where history is sculpted anew every day.

Unearthing Time: A Journey Through Fossils and Nature at Thathachi Manai

2025-03-04T12:03:00.006+05:30

Overview: Tucked away in the lush greenery near Denkanikottai, just a short drive from Bangalore, lies a retreat unlike any other—Thathachi Manai. Spread across 6.5 acres of serene farmland, this rustic paradise is not just about nature and relaxation; it’s also home to a fascinating collection of fossils from across the world, carefully preserved by Anand David, a passionate collector and seasoned traveler.

A Collector of Time Itself

Anand David, the founder-director of the Management Foundation for Organisation Research and Development, has spent over 20 years traveling across 81 countries for his work as a management consultant. But along the way, he developed an unusual passion—collecting fossils. His journey into paleontology began serendipitously in Kathmandu, Nepal, where he stumbled upon a seemingly ordinary stone being sold by a street vendor. Upon cracking it open, he discovered a fossilized marine mollusk, marking the start of a lifelong quest to uncover the secrets of the past.

His collection now includes remarkable fossils from Morocco, Mongolia, China, Russia, Cambodia, the United States, and beyond. Among the most incredible finds are trilobites, ammonites, orthoceras, and devonites, dating back over 400 million years from the Devonian period. He has also preserved petrified tree logs, twigs, and leaves, some dating back 20 million years.

The Thrill of Holding a Meteorite

While fossils tell the story of Earth’s ancient life forms, Anand’s most extraordinary find extends beyond our planet—a piece of a meteorite. Holding a fragment from outer space is a surreal experience, a humbling reminder of how tiny we are in the vastness of the universe.

A Retreat That Blends History with Nature

Beyond the fossil collection, Thathachi Manai is a destination that invites visitors to slow down and immerse themselves in nature. The farm stay is designed with handcrafted spaces, including rustic cottages, a waterfall plunge pool, a cozy gazebo dining area, and open bonfire spots. The gardens are filled with exotic plants, offering a perfect backdrop for a peaceful getaway.

A Unique Experience for Travelers & Nature Enthusiasts

Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, or someone looking for a quiet retreat, Thathachi Manai offers an experience that blends prehistoric wonders with modern-day tranquility. Anand David’s enthusiasm and knowledge make the visit even more enriching, as he shares stories of his discoveries and insights into the fossilization process.

Plan Your Visit

For those looking for a weekend escape near Bangalore, Thathachi Manai offers a rare opportunity to step into a world where time is captured in stone. From fossils millions of years old to the simple joys of farm life, this retreat is a hidden gem that promises relaxation, exploration, and a deeper connection to Earth's history.

Ready to journey through time? Visit Thathachi Manai and experience the beauty of nature, history, and the cosmos all in one place!

Bangalore in Transition: The 2000s Chronicles

2024-12-18T20:28:00.000+05:30

Bangalore in the early 2000s was a city in transition, straddling its genteel past and the rapid changes brought about by the IT boom. The mornings began with a sense of optimism, accompanied by the freshly launched Radio City 91FM. The chirpy voices of Sunaina Lal and Darius on the “Breakfast Show” set the tone for the day as I boarded the Infosys-Pushpak bus at Banashankari. The journey to Electronics City was a snapshot of a city growing faster than its infrastructure could keep up. The ride was smooth until Silk Board, but beyond Bommanahalli, the traffic snarls caused by the construction of the elevated highway became a daily test of patience.

Koramangala, once a quiet suburb, was buzzing with activity. The under-construction Forum Mall stood as a symbol of the city’s evolving lifestyle, drawing curious onlookers. Big Bazaar, a novelty then, became a favorite among old-timers, offering an alternative to the more modest FoodWorld. These changes hinted at the city’s growing cosmopolitan ethos, even as it tried to retain its charm.

Afternoons brought a sense of nostalgia with Radio City’s “Matinee Show with Sheetal,” which played timeless Kishore Kumar melodies. These songs wafted through the air in white-and-blue BMTC buses, blending seamlessly with the hum of the city. Meanwhile, Bangalore’s markets adhered to their unhurried rhythm, closing for lunch and reopening by 5 PM. Majestic, City Market, Shivajinagar, and MG Road remained the nerve centers, brimming with life and commerce.

Eating out was still a luxury for many, and darshanis—quick-service vegetarian eateries—were the go-to spots for a hearty meal. For those with deeper pockets, MG Road, Church Street, and the nascent Koramangala offered posh dining experiences. BMTC had just introduced the circular routes 500 and 600, connecting the city’s outer periphery. Route 500’s circuit from Banashankari to Banashankari was a lifeline for many, though the stretch beyond Silk Board was a stark contrast to the bustling city. The Outer Ring Road (ORR) was largely barren, with the Intel building standing as one of the few markers of civilization amidst vast open fields.

Evenings brought a quieter pace. Areas like Yeshwantpur and Vijayanagar became hubs for those from North Karnataka, while Koramangala and later BTM Layout gained fame among young IT professionals arriving from across the country. Varthur Kodi, with its rustic mud roads, was still a reminder of Bangalore’s village-like roots, a far cry from the urban sprawl it would become.

Technology was just beginning to permeate everyday life. Mobile phones, particularly Nokias, were becoming status symbols, sold in select stores in Gandhi Bazaar, Malleshwaram, and Brigade Road. Cyber cafes were bustling hubs, with young people chatting on Yahoo Messenger or checking emails, a precursor to the digital connectivity we take for granted today.

Venturing further, ITPL was still a work in progress. A visit there required a BMTC ride to KR Puram and a private bus from there. The journey was an adventure, with unlit roads flanked by old steel factories in Mahadevapura and Hoodi lending an eerie vibe. Hope Farm Junction felt like the edge of the known world, its isolation a stark contrast to its future as a bustling tech hub.

Street food was a simple pleasure, with masala puri, dilkush, dilpasand, bread roast, and veg puffs dominating the local palate. These affordable treats anchored Bangalore’s culinary culture, a mix of tradition and accessibility.

Looking back, these memories capture the essence of a city in flux—a Bangalore that balanced its serene, green past with the challenges and promises of modernization. It was a city where the old coexisted with the new, and every corner held a story waiting to be told. Imagining Bangalore in the decades before—the 70s, 80s, and 90s—one can only marvel at the resilience of a city constantly redefining itself yet holding on to its soul.

Exploring the Enchanting Village of Banavasi(Bengaluru Rural): A Hidden Gem Amidst Hills

2023-09-05T20:25:00.003+05:30

Watch the full video here

Overview: Nestled along the scenic Harohalli-Anekal road near Bangalore, Banavasi is a tranquil village enveloped by majestic hills, offering a serene escape from the bustling world. This unassuming village holds within its bounds a rich tapestry of history, spirituality, and natural beauty that beckons visitors to explore its hidden treasures.

Exploring Banavasi's Temples and Shrines:

At the heart of Banavasi lies the venerable Maramma temple, a cherished spiritual landmark that has stood for over 150 years. Tucked beneath the shade of a sprawling Banyan tree, the temple boasts a stone image in the distinctive folk style. A sense of reverence permeates the air as devotees gather here to pay homage and seek blessings.

Adjacent to the Maramma temple, a charming shrine dedicated to Karadi Maramma comes into view. Housing an image of Durga and an intricately engraved wooden idol crowned by the Keertimukha, this shrine exudes a rustic charm that resonates with the village's deep-rooted spirituality. A modest Hanuman shrine stands as a loyal companion, fostering a sense of unity among the diverse deities.

Lovely morning near Bannerghatta

Some offroading

Beautiful roads

Urugeshwara temple

Journeying Beyond: Oderahalli and Antharagange:

Crossing a gentle stream near the village, Oderahalli unveils its own spiritual gem—a small yet profound Malleshwara shrine. Perched atop a mound, the shrine cradles a sacred Linga within its confines, a silent guardian of ancient traditions.

Venturing 2 kilometers from Oderahalli, we reach Antharagange, a destination that can also be approached from the Godur side. This hidden sanctuary rests upon a hillside, its secrets nestled within a rocky crevice. Here, a solemn Linga graces the crevice, a testament to the village's enduring spiritual resonance. A modern structure now stands beside the sacred cave shrine, a harmonious blend of the past and the present.

A Spiritual Heritage: Sri Narayana Bharathi's Legacy:

Antharagange holds more than just natural wonders—it also cradles the legacy of Sri Narayana Bharathi, a celibate saint who, decades ago, built an ashrama that continues to radiate his teachings. His samadhi stands as a tribute to his unwavering devotion and contribution to the village's spiritual fabric.

Peering beyond the ashrama's sanctum, another hidden cavern reveals itself. Within its depths, five revered Lingas are said to have been enshrined, a sacred space where spirituality finds expression in its purest form. A natural water source within the rocky terrain adds a touch of mystique, drawing devotees to take part in the annual Shivaratri jatre, a joyous celebration of Lord Shiva.

Antharagange

Antharagange Pond

Gavimatha

Inscriptions near Gavimatha

Gavimatha

Banavasi

A beautiful stream

Conclusion:

Banavasi, the quiet village cocooned by hills, weaves a narrative of spirituality, history, and natural beauty. As you traverse its temples, shrines, and hidden caves, you'll find a connection to the past, a glimpse of the present, and a promise of serenity that lingers long after you depart. Come, explore Banavasi's unassuming charm, and unravel the stories etched within its sacred walls.

Scenic beauty near Anekal forest

Dancing Colors of the Past: Unveiling Ancient Art at the Plains of Mystery (Mallachandram & Jagatab, Tamil Nadu)

2023-08-28T14:58:00.002+05:30

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Overview: Welcome to Mallachandram, where history comes alive through the whispers of weathered stone. Here, amidst the rolling landscapes, you'll find around 200 dolmens that hold the secrets of an ancient time.

Dolmens, known as 'portholes' to experts, dot this landscape in various designs, each offering a glimpse into a different chapter of the past. Picture a circular dolmen standing proudly among stones, a silent witness to the generations it has witnessed. Another design showcases a dolmen encircled by a ring of stones, guarded by towering menhirs, standing sentinel over the resting place within.

A more intricate arrangement presents a stone cist, embraced by upright stones forming a gentle wall—a sacred space that speaks of those of great significance. And then, there's the simplicity of a lone grave, unembellished yet profound, the earliest echo of this tradition.

But the stones tell more tales beyond their shapes. They bear etchings that unravel scenes from a distant time—hunting expeditions frozen in time, snapshots of everyday life, and a menagerie of animals that once roamed these lands.

Mallachandram Dolmens

Jagatab Rock Shelters:

Step into the plains and discover a special place, a shelter where art from long ago comes to life. The shelter is about 20 feet long and has paintings in white colors. These paintings show men and women dancing in two groups. There are also square shapes drawn. Some experts think these might show places for keeping cattle. In another part of the paintings, three pairs of men are fighting. There are symbols that look like drums, a sun with eyes and a mouth, and signs of things growing. Some of the faces of men and women are shown from the side.

In this shelter, you can see stories from a long time ago. The paintings connect us with people who lived before us. They tell us about their dances, their fights, and the things they thought were important. Even though many years have passed, their art still speaks to us today.

Jagatab Rock Shelters

Raichur Trip Day 3: Lingasugur, Maski, Pothnal Manvi & Kallur

2023-08-22T11:20:00.001+05:30

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Overview: Embarking on the concluding day of our enchanting Raichur sojourn, we bid adieu to our overnight abode in Lingasugur after a hearty breakfast. Our compass pointed towards Maski, a hallowed site resonating with the echoes of ancient history, where monumental Ashokan edicts stand as silent sentinels.

Amazing roads in Raichur District

Nestled gracefully along the meandering banks of the Maski river, an intimate tributary of the Tungabhadra, Maski emerges as a township with an intriguing past. Rooted in the etymology of "Mahasangha" or "Masangi," the town's name whispers tales of a bygone era. The sands of time unveiled Maski's historical prominence when the intrepid explorer C. Beadon, in 1915, unearthed a momentous revelation—the remarkable Ashokan edict. Among Ashoka's inscriptions, this edict marked a pivotal juncture, bearing the imperial name "Ashoka" rather than the preceding references of "Devanampiye Piyadasi." This breakthrough delineated that numerous earlier engravings across the subcontinent, formerly attributed to Devanampiye Piyadasi, were indeed the legacy of Emperor Ashoka himself. Etched upon the rugged facade of Durgada-gudda, one of the rugged gneissic formations that punctuate the site, this edict eternally speaks.

Maski Ashokan Edicts

Our voyage then unfurled towards Pothnal, where a women-driven haven of handicrafts awaited. Regrettably, circumstances withheld the artisans' presence during our visit, leaving us yearning for a glimpse of their creative spirit. Undaunted, we journeyed forth to Manvi, a tapestry of tales and temples.

Pothnal

At Manvi, the graceful Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple took precedence—a sanctuary poised atop a gentle hillock. Dominating the vista was a colossal Nandi sculpture, its gaze fixated upon the consecrated Shivalinga. Nestled in proximity, the HaaluBhavi stepwell awaited, its waters rumored to taste like the elixir of tender coconuts. Many a villager ventured here, vessels in hand, to collect this divine nectar. Intrigue led us to whispers of ancient rock paintings, etched into the very landscape. Despite our tireless pursuit, these enigmatic artworks eluded our gaze.

Manvi

The sun nearing its zenith, our appetites led us to Shanthi Sagar in Manvi for a sumptuous repast. Energized, we charted our course for Kollur, a destination that beckoned with the promise of devotion and tranquility.

Kallur unfurled its prized treasure—the resplendent Mahalakshmi Temple. A testament to timelessness, the temple welcomed us with a surprising lack of throngs, allowing us to absorb its sacred aura in solitude. A stone's throw away, a contemplative Hanuman statue graced the landscape, offering respite to weary travelers like ourselves.

Kallur

With the day's journey winding down, the homeward path traced our steps to Raichur. As the sun began its descent beyond the horizon, we reminisced over a final dinner at my cousin's abode. Laden with cherished memories, we bid adieu to Raichur, our hearts brimming with the echoes of its history, and boarded our night-bound bus to Bangalore. This chapter closed with an abundance of experiences etched into our souls, a testament to the timelessness of Raichur's embrace.

Raichur Trip Day 2: Devadurga, Gurgunta, Lingasugur, Mudgal & Jaladurga

2023-08-15T18:54:00.002+05:30

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Overview: On the second day of our journey through Raichur district, we bid farewell to the cozy comfort of our Railway retiring room in Raichur and embarked on an exploration of the district's western realm. The early morning air nipped at us as we set out on our motorcycle, adding a touch of invigorating chill to our adventure.

Our day's odyssey commenced with a hearty breakfast in the quaint town of Devadurga. Energized and fueled, we directed our wheels towards our initial destination - a unique grove of Baobab trees. As we arrived at the premises of a Government school, our eyes were drawn to the majestic presence of a solitary, towering Baobab tree. A fascinating historical tidbit accompanied this natural wonder; this arboreal giant was said to have been planted by the Adil Shahis, who imported its seeds from the faraway lands of Africa. The intertwining of cultures and epochs was evident beneath its branches.

Devadurga

Leaving behind Devadurga, we traversed the landscape towards Gurgunta Fort. While the sight of the fort itself was somewhat disheartening, its crumbling facade revealing the passage of time, we could not ignore its historical significance. Originally erected during the reign of the illustrious Vijayanagara kings, the fort later found purpose in the era of the Adil Shahis, standing as a testament to the ebb and flow of dynasties and empires.

Gurgunta Fort

Our journey then led us to the captivating Amareshwara temple. Nestled in an aura of mystique, this temple held a remarkable phenomenon - a constant flow of water surrounding the sacred Shivalinga throughout the year. The source of this enigmatic occurrence remained shrouded in mystery, an intricate puzzle that drew pilgrims in search of divine truths. The temple's allure reached its zenith during the vibrant Holi festival, when it became a vibrant center of spiritual celebration.

Amareshwara temple

Continuing our voyage, the charming enclave of Kasba Lingasugur beckoned us. Here, ancient echoes resonated through the grand Ramalingeshwara temple and the revered Kuppe Bheema temple. Among the tapestry of India's temples, this site stood out for its rarity - a homage to Bala Bheema, an iconic figure from the epic Mahabharata. The stones seemed to whisper tales of valor and mythology as we immersed ourselves in this extraordinary sanctuary.

Ramalingeshwara temple Kasba Lingasugur

BalaBheema temple Kasba Lingasugur

Mudgal Fort marked another chapter in our exploration, its formidable walls guarding the secrets of the past. Though we chose not to ascend the hill within its embrace, the aura of bygone eras enveloped us, leaving us in awe of the passage of centuries.

Mudgal Fort

Our path then led us to Piklihal, a realm where prehistory left its mark in the rugged terrain. Alas, the unforgiving landscape led us astray, and we chose to relinquish our quest, for the spirits of time and place were not yet ready to reveal their treasures.

Piklihal

The day's journey drew to a close as we settled into the embrace of Hotel VijayaSaanvi, savoring the restful reprieve it offered. Yet, our thirst for exploration remained unquenched, compelling us towards the mystical Jaladurga Fort, a mere 20 kilometers from Lingasugur. The ascent to the fort was a visual symphony of nature's beauty, culminating in a panoramic vista that unveiled the silent dance of the river Krishna. Here, history and literature intertwined, as Meadows Taylor's words brought the significance of this place to life in his book 'Noble Queen.' While the potential for tourism development was evident, our company consisted mainly of a few locals, a testament to the hidden gems that await discovery.

Jaladurga Fort

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we retraced our steps to Lingasugur, our hearts filled with the echoes of the day's adventure. With the taste of dinner still lingering on our palates, we retreated to our hotel, our spirits ignited by the blend of history, culture, and exploration that defined this exhilarating day.