DRAW IT

Realistic Pencil Drawing of Eye.

2018-04-20T04:07:00.000-07:00

Eyes are the most expressive and one of the beautiful features on a face. No matter which part of the world you are from, your eyes can speak volumes. As an artist, drawing of eyes is a very liberating experience.

Online Blood Bank Project ( BCA / CS major project )

2016-05-29T22:27:00.001-07:00

Project title : Online Blood Bank
Language : PHP, HTML, CSS

database : MySQL

Realistic Pencil drawing of Jack Nicholson by Ashil Raj

2014-12-28T22:43:00.001-08:00

working on new drawing .
Art : Ashil Raj

Realistic pencil drawings by Rajacenna

2012-03-23T01:18:00.002-07:00

Realistic pencil drawings by Rajacenna

Click images to enlarge

Amazing Pencil Drawings tricks and tips

2012-03-23T00:28:00.003-07:00

Photographic Pencil Art

Summary: An amazing combination of pencil drawings and photography…

You often see really amazing pencil drawings and sketches, or powerfully captivating photographs here and there. However, it’s not often you see them both in the same picture.

Ben Heine is an amazing artist and photographer who has created his own battlefield between drawing and photography. Mixing the real and the unreal, this is what you get…

Pencil vs Camera

I hope you found this collection of artwork by Ben Heine to be amazing and awe-inspiring. Well, I’m sure you did…

(via Ben Heine)

If you enjoyed this post, please consider subscribing via RSS feed or through email or via Twitter to have future articles delivered to you so you never miss a thing...

By Dear Ashil Raj on December 1, 2011 / Images

Sketchbook

2012-03-18T01:17:00.001-07:00

Sketchbook

This book was created by Michael Murdock. As he said on his blog he likes drawing chaotic things and making them look nice. These drawings look like a creation of very talanted high school kid done during a boring lessons. That’s why they are interesting!

Source: http://www.beautifullife.info/art-works/sketchbook/#ixzz3qGb1t1yQ

Unbelievable Pencil Art by Paul Lung

2012-03-17T03:21:00.001-07:00

Unbelievable Pencil Art by Paul Lung

It’s hard to belive but all these beautiful pictures are not photos but pencil drawings. The author of such unbelievable art is 38-year-old graphic artist from Hong Kong Paul Lung. 0.5 mm technical pencil and A2 paper are the only attributes of these masterpieces. He doesn’t use eraser and spends up to 60 hours sketching out his pictures. As he often admits people do not belive him and he has to make videos of his work to prove that these art works are not photographs. Check these beautiful artworks by yourself.

UPDATE: Due to the increasing number of comments from our readers who doubt in real belonging of these images to the works of Paul Lung – we’ve contacted with author of these art works. Rather Paul Loong himself contacted us and explained that not all of art works were placed in its portfolio on devianart were really his work. How it was happened – Lung did not explain, but we have edited our post, and now our readers can be sure – all the works featured on this page are indeed the real work of Paul Lung.

Art and unbelievable design come together with Elliman’s luxury Brooklyn homes.

Take advantage of cheap printing services only at PsPrint.com.

Animal Haircuts for Braun

Beautiful Portrait Paintings by Danny O’Connor

Amazing Horses Photos by Wojtek Kwiatkowski

Stunning Watercolor Paintings of Greece

Life on White by Eric Isselée

Stunning Pencil Drawings from TortilloN

2012-03-17T02:43:00.000-07:00

Stunning Pencil Drawings from TortilloN

We’ve already shown you some amazing examples of pencil art like Pencil Art by T. S. Abe or Unbelievable Pencil Art by Paul Lung and today want to show you another amazing pencil drawings. These stunning art works were created by 18 years old talanted artist from Ukraine under the nick TortilloN. He creates graphite portraits of people, celebreties, movie characters and he doest it briliant. Check out his drawing and you can see for yourself!

The Tenth Doctor

Billie Joe Armstrong

The Winchester Brothers

Angelina Jolie

Bruce Lee

Edward Scissorhands

Heath Ledger

House M.D.

Hugh Laurie 2

Anthony Hopkins

The Joker 4

Hugh Laurie

Jack Sparrow

The Joker

Indiana Jones

Incredible Pencil Sculptures of
Dalton J. Paul Getty

Realistic Sculptures from Graphite by Agelio Batle

Creative Ads – Live Drawings for Animaster

Unbelievable Pencil Art by Paul Lung

Sketchbook

Incredible and Scary 3D Pencil Drawings

2012-03-15T03:01:00.001-07:00

Incredible and Scary 3D Pencil Drawings by 17-year old Fredo

Written by Administrator

Tuesday, 21 December 2010 18:00

Realistic pencil drawings are

always interesting. It is nice to

watch how artist has managed to

draw something

like it was photographed by camera.

However, the plenty of the pencil drawings

you have seen by now probably cannot be

compared with the following drawings

which are literally mind-blowing.

Those drawings were made by Fredo,

a 17-year old guy from Chile who has

found an interesting way to create

3D drawings.

Fredo has started to think more seriously about his drawing skills when he was 15. He has

learned from some already known artists in this field like M.C.Escher. He also says that

he is inspired by the work of Rembrandt, Alex Grey and Beksinki. When he was asked about

the time which he needs to produce one of his drawings, he said that some of his

drawing have took him months while he was drawing them.

Here you can see some of his 3D realistic pencil drawings which look like they

were photographed with camera rather than drawn with hand. Some of you will

notice that most of those drawings are pretty scary with some really bizarre details,

which surprises me a little bit.

Fredo's deviantART Portfolio

Awesome Pencil Drawing of Actor Surya

2012-03-15T02:14:00.001-07:00

Realistic pencil work of tamil actor Surya by Ashil Raj

Share it !

Amzing pencil drawings of Animals

2012-03-15T02:00:00.001-07:00

Amazing Pencil Drawings of Animals That Look Like Photographs

Well ,this is my second post of today but i found it quiet amazing and incredible,
That i could not resist my self from posting it and sharing it to my blog for you guys. take a look.....................
....................

There are some people in artistic circles who are incredibly gifted, and this Hong Kong artist is certainly among the best in the world. His images are black and white, but not for dramatic effect. That is just the way he likes it.
Believe it or not, these stunning images are not photographs - they were drawn using only one pencil. These incredibly realistic images show the humble pencil at its best, and are so exceptional that they can detail the fine hairs of a cat and the wisps of a beard. While most people use a pencil only so they can easily erase any mistakes they make, Paul Lung often spends up to 60 hours sketching out his latest work of art
His works include stunning photo-realistic images of cats with lifelike fur and impressive drawings of friends and family. He even has to make videos of his work to make people believe they are not photographs. Despite taking so much time on each piece, the 38-year-old has to fit his hobby around his day job as a graphic artist.
"I have loved to draw all my life but I especially like to draw graphite realism drawings," said Mr Lung fromHong Kong.
"Each one will take about 40 to 60 hours and I will draw when I get back from the office after work for about three to four hours a day."
"Most of my drawings are A2 size and all are done using a 0.5mm technical pencil. I like graphite realismdrawing because I can use just one single pencil to create millions of different textures."

With a talent as prodigious as this, it is small wonder that Lung's images can be found all over the world. How on earth such minute, even photographic detail can be produced by simply putting pencil to paper is a truly wondrous thing. I will happily hang these 'photos' on my walls. They would grace any art gallery worth its salt. What an artist!

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Amzing,realistic Pen Drawings

2012-03-11T03:47:00.002-07:00

Incredibly Realistic Ballpoint Pen Drawings by

Juan Francisco Casas

Photo:
"Sarajevo Surprise Attack" (2007)
Image via onemansblog

What is blue, about 10 feet tall and takes several ballpoint pens to make? One of Juan Francisco Casas’ drawings, based on a photograph and recreated with only a blue pen. The 32-year old Spanish artist submitted his first realist ballpoint-pen drawing at a national competition in 2004 – and won second prize! The rest is history and Casas hasn’t really looked at traditional painting methods again.

A slight teeth obession? Casas’ latest works at SCOPE 2009 in New York:

Image via Art Comments In an interview with the Daily Mail in February 2008, Casas said:

“I guess it started off as a joke, to try and make something so realistic that people would think is a photo. I also wanted to create it with something that everyone has – a Biro. I don't think it has ever been done before.”

And hasn’t been done since, as far as we know. Juan Francicso Casas appreciates the ballpoint pen’s “simplicity” and stresses the fact that as an artist, it doesn’t really matter what material you use. The only drawback of using ballpoint pens? One can’t erase mistakes and can just hope to make them early on. No wonder then that one large drawing can take Casas up to two weeks to make.
A detail photographed by flickr user Art Comments during the SCOPE art fair in New York in 2009 reveals the fine penmanship – it is a drawing we’re looking after all, not a photograph.

Image via Art Comments Since winning the prestigious ABC Prize in Madrid in 2004, Juan Francisco Casas’ works have been exhibited at important galleries in Spain and art fairs in New York, London, Basel and many other cities. And his works are selling fast: at an exhibition in Madrid in 2008 he sold 60 of drawings for between €1,000 - €5,000 ($1,400 - $7,200) each. So many in fact, that he quickly had to draw more to have something to exhibit.
Casas received a Ph.D. in Fine Arts from the University of Granada in southern Spain in 2006 where he taught for six years. In 2007, he moved to Rome after winning a grant from the Spanish Academy there.

The artist putting finishing touches on "Sarajevo Dental Floss" (2007):

Image via onemansblog
We wish this promising artist all the best and wonder if Bic has thought about sponsoring his art? More amazing drawings and paintings can be found on Juan Francisco Casas website.
Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4
If you want to find out all the latest news on the environment, why not subscribe to our RSS feed? We’ll even throw in a free album.

Written by: Simone Preuss

Unbelievable pencil drawings by Linda Huber

2012-03-11T03:30:00.002-07:00

Photo realistic pencil drawings by

Linda Huber

These are not black and white photographs..

these are the supernatural drawings by the great artist Linda huber..

Awesome Pen Drawings from Students Notebooks

2012-02-29T08:54:00.000-08:00

Awesome Pen Drawings from Students Notebooks

Many high school students were pretty bored on the most of the lessons they had to attend, especially maths and physics. So, they used to scribble different objects in their notebook and at the end of the year their notebook looked like true piece of artwork. However that wasn’t very helpful when they had to pass the exams. Update: Those outstanding drawings belongs to Andrea Joseph.

(click on the image for make it bigger)

It seems that lot of students have such hobbies, to draw anything while they’re bored during the lessons. Drawing is some kind of expressing your feelings and boring lessons are true opportunity to get inspired to draw something unique. Here you can see some of the most amazing pencil drawings took from unknown students’ notebooks.

Via Andrea Joseph’s Sketchblog.

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page view count : 133589

Drawing the Human Eye, Free Art Tutorial

2012-02-27T09:05:00.001-08:00

Drawing the Human Eye, Free Art Tutorial

Female Eye by Faith Te

Here is the first tutorial from Art Studio — a female eye. My method in graphite pencil drawing aims to render subjects as realistically as I can. The following is a step-by-step demonstration of how I draw eyes. While I very much hope that it helps you in drawing realistic eyes, do experiment and develop your own way of drawing. I myself sometimes do not follow some of the steps exactly as I like to experiment and try to find better ways of achieving a specific texture or effect. Before I begin, many thanks to Toni-Marie Hudson for the use of her picture. Toni-Marie does animal paintings in mixed media. Visit her web site to view her extremely realistic paintings.

Step One

The outline on Canson Grain. Since the outline was very light and will likely be smudged off when I start rendering or shading, I have carefully and lightly retraced the lines with a soft pencil. In this case, a Faber-Castell 0.5 mm 2B mechanical pencil.

Step Two

Using a soft brush dipped in small amounts of graphite powder, I cover the outline with two or three layers of tone. Any brush can be used as long as it produces a very smooth effect and fills in the tooth of the paper. I try to avoid getting tone on the highlight of the iris. If I do get any graphite there, I tap the area with a clean kneaded eraser.

Step Three

Using a smaller version of the brush I used in the previous step, I begin forming the shapes of the eye by defining the darker areas..

Step Four

With a kneaded eraser, I cleaned up the highlights.

Step Five

I used a Dong-A 0.5 mm 2B mechanical pencil to draw the darkest areas like the pupil, shadow on the upper part of the iris and the crease of the upper eyelid.

Step Six

Concentrating on the iris for now, I use a hard pencil (5H Staedtler) and fairly hard pressure to draw spokes originating from the pupil. This will keep the paper from absorbing a lot of graphite in the next stage.

Step Seven

Having used a 5H on the previous stage, I can now draw darker shades on the iris using a dark pencil (2B mechanical pencil). The reason why I use 2B is because it spreads more easily. The 5H is also to keep the tones very smooth when darker tones are added.

Step Eight

I further worked on the iris erasing and adding graphite as much as needed to create varied tones. Moving on to the white of the eye, it was also covered with a layer of 5H to create a smooth effect. Then I used a 2B mechanical pencil on the shadow areas to form the eyeball.

Step Nine

Here I began working on the skin. Using a 0.5 mm HB mechanical pencil and a light circular motion, I added tones to the upper eyelid and the surrounding skin - starting first on an area which will receive more graphite (in this case, the skin around the crease) and moving towards lighter areas. I used a shop towel and a brush to smoothen out rough spots.

Step Ten

Continued with the lower part of the skin.

Step Eleven

Still continuing with the HB mechanical pencil. I’ve now added shadows to the skin. The 5H Staedtler pencil was also used on the thickness of the lower eyelid. 2B mechanical pencil was used for its darker areas.

Step Twelve

To create the wrinkles on the skin, I lightly drew lines with the HB mechanical pencil and then used a kneaded eraser to create fine highlights beside each line. A paper stump and a brush were used to soften and blend the lines. The same method used on the white of the eye was also used on the tear duct. The HB was used for the eyebrow — starting with the root of each hair and lessening pressure towards the tip.

Step Thirteen

I always try to keep from drawing the eyelashes until the skin underneath is finished. Since the upper eyelashes will be darker than the lower eyelashes or the eyebrow, I used a Dong-A 2B mechanical pencil which is much darker than a Faber-Castell of the same grade. Again, following the direction of growth and starting from the root, lessening pressure as I come to the tip. Reflections of the eyelashes were also drawn on the highlight of the iris.

Step Fourteen

The lower eyelashes were drawn with the Faber-Castell 2B mechanical pencil.

Step Fifteen

The final eye. Finishing touches were made and some of the highlights on the lower eyelid were dulled a little. I hope you find these steps and images informative and helpful.

Happy drawing,

Visit Faith Te's Website

Tutorial is copyright of Faith Te

Learn How to Draw - Graphite Pencil and Charcoal Tutorial

2012-02-20T22:21:00.000-08:00

Learn How to Draw - Graphite Pencil and Charcoal Tutorial

Work In Progress

Title: "Inner Beauty"
Size: 18" x 14"
Medium: Charcoal, Graphite, Carbon on White Paper

Step One:
I am using charcoal for the background and graphite for the subject. I'm using Arches 140 lbs hot press watercolor paper for this drawing. This is one of my favorite papers. It has enough tooth to create dark values yet is smooth enough for very delicate textures. In this first step, I have cut out the shape of my subject(s) in frisket film and applied it to the paper. Then, I applied 3b soft charcoal to the background to begin creating a wood texture.

Step Two:
Next, I blended the charcoal with a piece of felt and added the beginnings of wood grain. I repeated this several times to build up a solid tone. After pulling out some highlights with a clic eraser, I used a sharp hard charcoal pencil to create shadows to help create slivers and chips in the wood. I also applied masking tape at this point. I will be drawing masking tape in these areas later. Some of the wood texture will show through from the previous step and give my drawn masking tape a little more transparency.

Step Three:
Then, I sprayed the drawing with fixative, Peeled off the frisket and began rendering the subjects. I used a 6h graphite pencil to add tone to the paper and blended with a chamois. In some areas, I applied the graphite with the chamois. For those of you that haven’t tried blending with a chamois, it can produce incredibly subtle tones – almost like an air brush. I use a kneaded eraser to pull out the crinkles in the paper. I am using the same technique to render the rose, applying graphite from dark to light and blending.

The tape on the right shows what it looking like after I removed the real masking tape. I have begun rendering the tape on the right with a General's carbon sketch pencil and blending with a tortillon. Using carbon here for the tape will help separate it from the wood and the paper.

Step Four:
I have started adding the holes and lines of the notebook paper. In case you are wondering, I didn’t darken the background in this step, I had to turn up the contrast on this a bit to show the lines on the paper.

I used charcoal for the holes to match the background. Adding charcoal at this stage always makes me nervous since it isn’t fixed and can easily smear. I also continued to add shading to the rose and added the line drawing of the stem.

The lines on the paper were produced with a .3 mechanical pencil to keep them as sharp and clean as possible. I used a French Curve instead of a ruler because the lines had to follow the bends and crinkles in the paper to keep the perspective correct. The best way to describe a French curve is it’s a bendable rubber straight edge

Step Five:
Here’s the final. I had a real tough time taking photos of this one. I couldn’t get a picture of the softness of the paper shading without compromising the darker background detail. The original has more punch.

I’ve included some close-ups to give you a little better Idea of the detail. In the original drawing the tape is approximately 3/4" wide. It may appear larger than I drew it on your screen.

page view count=103008

How to Draw A Realistic Manga/Anime Face

2012-02-18T08:03:00.000-08:00

How to Draw A Realistic Manga/Anime Face

The manga “style” is actually a name for a collection of different styles that range from being quite cartoony and simple, to being realistic and intricate. This video tutorial will show you how to draw a face in one of the more complex styles.

page view count : 1038

Still Life Drawing Tutorial- How to Draw Still Life

2012-02-16T21:41:00.001-08:00

Still Life Drawing Tutorial- How to Draw Still Life

I made this tutorial to show the different steps that I take in drawing a realistic still life drawing. There are many different methods though, so don't rely purely on this one. :)

I buy all of my supplies from Blick Art Materials . Buying your stuff from that link helps me keep adding to this site.

Step 1 For this still life tutorial I chose to draw a zippo lighter. I have drawn them quite a few times in the past but I always enjoy them. The first step was getting an outline. I also marked off where some highlights will be. (click on the image for make it bigger)

Step 2 I began drawing from left to right, top to bottom. Working this way, I never have to rest my hand on a finished part of a drawing. I carefully drew around the highlights with a mechanical 3B.

Step 3 I continued on drawing the flint and starting the metal. I noticed some highlights around the holes in the metal so I drew around them. When drawing highlights, compare them to eachother to make sure they are pure white. You will find that some highlights are not pure white.

Step 4 I came across a brilliant highlight in the metal and when comparing to other light parts, I saw that the holes in the metal should be lightly shaded. This made the highlight stand out more too.

Step 5 The top of the lighter was done at this point. I compared tones to eachother and tweaked parts that needed lightening or darkening.

Step 6 It was time to move onto the bottom part of the lighter. I started this off by laying down some B graphite. The zippo had alot of scratches in it that I wanted to show so I started making little random highlights all over. There was another highlight on the left side so I drew around it.

Step 7 The bottom part of the zippo is lighter on the left side and darker on the right so I began laying down some 3B on the right side and blending it into the left. I did not use blending stumps for this though. Blending stumps would give too smooth of an effect so I just used some good old fashioned cross hatching here. There were some highlights in the darker/right side also but not as bright as on the left so I pulled those out with an eraser.

Step 8 I worked on the scratches on the lighter for quite a while until I liked how they looked. I made sure to really look close at my reference to see how they actually appeared. There was some indirect light on the right side of the zippo so I rendered it lighter.

Step 9 I moved on to the lid closing mechanism at the top of the zippo. I made sure to draw around the highlights on the rivet.

Step 10 Next came the lid. I started drawing the darkest parts of the lid and drew around the highlight.

Step 11 I filled in the rest of the lid using a 3B with a cross hatching technique. There were a couple highlights on the lid so I pulled them out with a kneaded eraser. I then layed down some 3B for the cast shadow under the lid. I always blend my shadows because I think it makes them look better. Almost done now.

Step 12 I finished the drawing off by drawing the bottom of the lighter. I used a B pencil for this. After that I blended the cast shadow under the bottom same as I did for the last step. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

I hope this tutorial has helped you in some way or another. I can explain how I do things all day but the basic idea of drawing is to just understand how tones flow and to train your eye to see what others don't see.

All of my tutorials are free, I don't ask for anything in return. I make them because I enjoy talking art and teaching others. They do take me quite a while to put together, a lot of work goes into them. If you have enjoyed or benefitted from this tutorial all I ask is that you help promote it. You can do this by submitting to social networking sites, linking, blogging, or posting links on forums. Promoting my tutorials is a huge help!!

follow this blog for more tutorials .....

page view count : 998

Amaizng eye drawing tutorial

2012-02-15T09:03:00.000-08:00

Amazing Eye-drawing tutorial

Step by step

Draw some outlines..

See where the darkest parts are, and darken them.

This is roughly how I draw irises:

Again, shade the darkest parts first!

Then, shade the rest of the eye. Try and create some depth.

Blend the whole iris with either a tortillion, or a wadding stick (those things you can use to clean your ears)

Repeat this process a few times.

Grab your kneadable eraser and try to create a sharp point to make the iris look less "empty".

Make some more highlights, continue until you're satisfied.

The white parts of the eye obviously aren't all that white, so...

First roughly reflect the darker and lighter parts.

Use a tortillion or a wadding stick to blend.

Because the last step obviously looked too dark and flat, add some highlights with the kneadable eraser.

Let's shade the upper eyelid!

Again, start by drawing the darkest area.

Like I did all the time, it's all about realistic shading. An eyelid has lots of different shades...

Use a tissue to blend the eyelid. It obviously still looks kind of flat, but I'll draw the lashes before adding more highlights

It's time to draw a few eyelashes (and I'll show you where to start)

To determine where to draw the lashes above the lower eyelid, shade this tiny part of the eye first. Pencil, followed by a tortillion...

Upper lashes! Try and make them look like bows. Also, they're never all the same length. Keep that in mind.

Draw some lower lashes. They don't have to be all that realistic yet...

The part between the upper eyelid and the eyebrow's fun to draw. Awesome shading!

Like I did all the time... Light pencil strokes that are kind of close together.

Use a tissue to blend.

Repeat this process a few times. Don't be afraid to use darks!

I'm ready to draw the eyebrow...

First, draw the most noticeable lines.

Then, shade the rest and blend the whole thing. Use a mixture of different tools and see what looks best!

As you can see, I'm starting to shade anything that looks "flat", "missing" or "empty" at this point.

While I'm doing that, I feel like it's time to shade underneath the eye.
Like I've explained before...

Blend, and draw the most noticeable lines.

Shade the darkest parts beneath the eye. Try and give it extra realism / depth by adding a few "wrinkles" : some thin lines that aren't supposed to be blended.

Repeat the last step... I also added some shading where the nose is supposed to "start"

Of course, above the eyebrow, shading is needed aswell...

No explanation needed.

Blend using a tissue...

One last touch and we're FINISHED!

page view count : 3801

2012-02-15T04:49:00.000-08:00

Circulism Technique

-while shading-

1.

Circulism is a technique that many artists use in attaining a realistic skin texture in drawing. People's faces are not perfect and should not be rendered so. Circlism is basically drawing very tiny overlapping and intertwining circles. The circles do not have to be perfect to achieve this effect. Figure 1 simply illustrates circles that are overlapping and intertwining. Of coarse the circles do not need to be this perfect on a drawing, just an example. In figure 2, I did a quick example of how circulism will look when applied to a drawing. I laid down some 3B graphite and blended in a circular motion with a blending stump. The circulism technique may also be used without blending, depends on your preference.

Click here for more shading tricks and tutorials www.dueysdrawings.com/

Portrait Tutorial - How to Draw a Face Step by Step

2012-02-14T02:37:00.000-08:00

Portrait Tutorial

How to Draw a Face Step by Step

This is a step by step tutorial on how to draw a realistic portrait. I would suggest that you have a basic understanding of drawing and shading before attempting to draw a serious portrait. For this lesson I am drawing on 11"x14" Fabriano Hotpressed Watercolor Paper . I am using Derwent Graphic Pencils ranging from 2H to 7B. For more information on any of the drawing tools that I mention in this tutorial, visit the drawing materials page. The subject for this drawing is one of my favorite women, the beautiful Kelly Monaco. I am using a reference picture of her that I found on the internet. Let's get started.

I buy all of my supplies from Blick Art Materials . Buying your stuff from that link helps me keep adding to this site.

Outline

Step 1 - First I have laid down a basic outline. You can either grid or freehand your outline. I prefer to grid because it's a lot faster and more accurate. Don't make your outline too dark. An HB pencil is perfect for outlines, not too dark and not too light. This step is very important in obtaining a likeness of your subject. If your outline doesn't resemble the person, your final product won't either. So take your time and get features and proportions correct. It's not uncommon for your outline to take a few hours.

Tip - Do NOT use a hard pencil (example: 5H, 2H) for outlines or grids. They will indent your paper and show up later when you are shading. They are almost impossible to cover up once the indentations are there. Don't say I didn't warn you. :)

Hair

Step 2 - Next I have started working on the hair. I always work from top to bottom, left to right, just like reading. I work this way so that I never have to rest my hand on a finished area of the drawing (I am right handed. Lefties would work right to left, top to bottom). I won't spend too much time explaining hair, since this is a face tutorial. But pay attention to which way the hair is flowing. Kelly's hair is very dark. I'm using a mechanical 3B and a 7B woodcased pencil on it. The mechanical pencil allows me to add the fine details and the 7B allows me to push the darker areas, adding contrast.

Step 3 - I continue working on the hair. Be patient and don't rush anything on a drawing. It's the small details that will make your work stand out from others'. Hair can take just as long, if not longer, than the face. Notice the hair is defined with different tones, not lines. If you just scribble a bunch of lines onto your paper, the hair will look flat and unrealistic. I use a mechanical 3B for most of the hair, using broad strokes in the direction the hair is flowing. Also there is no blending involved in drawing hair. I want the imperfections and paper texture to show through somewhat. Darken areas around highlights first and then fade your darks into the highlights. The highlights in the hair are darker in the back and become more brilliant towards the front. Remember that, for the most part, tones flow into eachother. Dark tones flow into midtones then into lights. Lights flow into midtones then into darks. If your hair isn't looking quite right, this may be your problem. Make sure you have a balanced flow of darks, midtones, and lights. If you just remember to keep tones flowing in gradients, you will end up with a realistic drawing. Step 4 - I am still working on the hair. The first area that I will shade on the face is the forehead. So I want that area completely framed in with the dark tones of the hair. That will give me a reference to compare facial tones to. Remember when I said hair can take a while? I have worked about 6 hours on the hair so far and I am not even halfway done with it yet. I am done with the hair momentarily though and will move onto the forehead.

Step 4 - I am still working on the hair. The first area that I will shade on the face is the forehead. So I want that area completely framed in with the dark tones of the hair. That will give me a reference to compare facial tones to. Remember when I said hair can take a while? I have worked about 6 hours on the hair so far and I am not even halfway done with it yet. I am done with the hair momentarily though and will move onto the forehead.

Forehead

Step 5 - Whenever I start working on a face the first thing I do is identify where the lightest areas will be. When you find these areas you can lightly outline about where they will be . Highlights are usually found on the forehead, cheeks, tip of the nose, bottom lip, and chin. I know where my highlights are on the forehead. I know that the rest of the forehead has to be darker than these highlights. So I start by laying down some H graphite around the highlights. I just scribble it down VERY lightly and then blend it out with a tissue. If you are not darker than your highlights, you need to lay down more. After we do this, we have to blend the tone you just laid down into the highlights to form a light gradient. I do this with a q-tip. Remember what I said earlier about tones flowing into eachother? You have just defined the form of the light area of the forehead. Now onto the dark.

Tip - Highlights give you a good opportunity to suggest skin texture if you want. Skin texture can be achieved by either using the circulism technique (very lightly) or by dabbing a kneaded rubber eraser on surrounding shaded areas. Just make sure you don't make your texture darker than the lightest surrounding tones because it won't look natural.

Step 6 - The further away from the highlights you get, the darker you get. I am basically making a gradient that starts light around the highlights and gets darker along the hairline. The shading around the hairline is important. Have you ever seen a drawing that looks like the hair is pasted on? I have seen plenty and that's the reason it looks this way, not enough shading around the hairline. There will always be darker shading around the hairline from the hair casting subtle shadows onto the skin.

Tip - Take breaks when you are drawing. Sometimes when you stare at something too long your mind starts playing tricks on you. Work on your drawing for a few hours, take a break, and come back to it later, with fresh eyes.

EYE

Step 7 - I move onto the left eye. I won't spend too much time explaining eyes because I already have a dedicated eye tutorial. First I lay down some 3B graphite into the iris and blend it out with a blending stump. Usually there will be brilliant highlights in the eyes so shade around those. I always make the highlights bigger than they actually are. It's a lot easier to make them smaller than make them bigger after you've shaded everything else. I always make my tones around these highlights slightly darker than they actually are. Doing this makes the eyes appear to sparkle more. Next I darken underneath the upper eyelid. This indicates a shadow from the eyelid. I also darken in the center of the eye to indicate a pupil. The "whites" of the eyes are not actually white. I shade them with H graphite. There will be a cast shadow from the upper eyelid also. Pay attention to tones in your reference photo. The answers are there, you just need to see them.

LEFT CHEEK

Step 8 - Next I move down to the left cheek. I start by locating my lightest tone. I lightly shade this area with H graphite and blend it with a tissue. Then I lay down some B graphite around the H and blend it out. Just as the forehead, we are making a gradient that will get darker as we near the outside of the face. I work my way right up next to the nose.

NOSE

Step 9 - Noses can be a struggle for many artists, especially beginners. Just try to remember that noses are nothing more than different tones representing contour and depth. I start by shading the bridge of the nose with H graphite. It is quite possible that there will be a subtle highlight on the tip of the nose so watch for that and shade around it. Next, I shade around the bridge with B graphite, making it slightly darker than the bridge area. I am making a subtle gradient towards the outer edges of the nose and into the cheek. As you are working on the nose area, make sure that tones flow seamlessly into the areas that we've already done. If an area of shading seems to abruptly stop, you need to work on blending it in so everything flows nicely.

Eye

Step 10 - I move onto the other eye. Just as before, I start by laying down some 3B graphite onto the iris and blend it with a blending stump. Again, shade around any highlights in the eyes. Leave them paper white. I darken the pupil and any areas under the eyelid to suggest a cast shadow. The eyelashes are drawn in now too but be careful not to make them too dark. Also, make them completely random. Eyelashes are never perfect and evenly spaced. I lay down some H graphite in the "whites" of the eyes. Even though these areas look white they never are. The only things that should be white on your drawing are brilliant highlights.

Tip - For most of my portraits I will add a small highlight where the iris meets the lower eyelid. This helps in attaining that wet look.

RIGHT CHEEK

Step 11 - Now I am working on the right cheek. I lay down some H graphite in the lightest area and blend it out. Then I lay a slightly darker B graphite around the lighter area. I hope by this point you are noticing a pattern. The pattern is that most everything on a portrait drawing is done with gradients, light tones flowing into darker tones and vice versa. The tones continue to get darker until I've reached the outside of the face.

JAW

Step 12 - Following the jawline, I lay down my darkest tones with a 3B pencil. The darkest tones for the jaw will be towards the edges. If the subject is smiling as is the case in my reference, there will be folds in the skin so watch for those too. These folds will be darker. I move onto the upper lip area laying down some B graphite. Make sure that you are making the whole jaw area darker than the highlights on both the cheeks and nose. Since my light source is coming from above, there is a cast shadow underneath the nose. This is not always the case and will depend upon where the light source is coming from. I shade this shadow area with a 3B pencil.

Step 13 - As you work your way down on the face don't forget about the hair. I play catch up on the hair until it's about down to the jaw area. Working this way prevents you from having to rest your hand on the finished facial area to get at the hair. Don't go too far down with the hair either because you'll have to rest your hand on the finished hair area to get at the face. Try to keep every part of the drawing at about the same point horizontally. I'm often asked how my drawings look so clean and this is the reason. You'll never see smudge marks all over my paper. Just as before, I use my 3B mechanical pencil along with a woodcased 7B for darker areas. The only lines that you draw in the hair should indicate the flow and direction. Now I'm down far enough with the hair on the left side where I can go back to working on the face.

Tip - A retractable eraser is a useful tool to have when working on hair. You can use it to erase small fly-away hairs, adding detail and realism to your drawing.

Step 14 - I go back to working on the jaw and mouth area, on the right side this time. I start by laying down my darkest tones along the jawline, again watching for laugh lines and dimples. Next I lay some B graphite and blend it into the darks I just laid down, making a subtle gradient towards the edge of the jaw. When I'm happy with the jaw area I go back to working on hair, catching it up to the jaw on the right side.

LIPS

Step 15 - Next I move onto the lips. I start by laying down an even wash of 3B graphite on the upper lip. Next I go slightly darker all over the lip except for the middle part, leaving that lighter. The darkest parts of the top lip will be the outer edges. The top lip will always be darker than the bottom. We used a 3B on the top lip so we will use a B on the bottom. I start by laying an even layer of B graphite down. Usually there are highlights on the bottom lip so make sure you avoid shading these. Underneath the bottom lip I shade in a shadow with 3B.

CHIN

Step 16 - We finally reach the end of the face by completing the chin. I lay down some H graphite in the highlight area and blend it out. Then I lay down some B graphite surrounding the highlight so it's slightly darker. I may adjust this area later when I am working on the neck area.

Neck

Step 17 - Depending on where the light source is coming from, there may be a cast shadow on the neck from the chin. This is the case with my drawing. I start by laying down an even wash of 3B graphite in the shadowed area. How do you know how dark to go with this shadow? Compare tones on the face with the shadowed area. I see that my shadowed area is about the same tone as the cast shadow underneath the nose. The shadowed area will be darker as we near the edges on both sides. I have also begun working on the shoulder on the left side. For the hair I decided to fade it out at the bottom. I think this is a really classy, artistic look in portrait drawing. I attain this look first by drawing the hair at the bottom with a 5H pencil. This will give me my lightest tones and the tones that I need to transition down to. Then I go back up the where I left off and use a 3B, getting lighter and lighter as I near the bottom. When you reach the bottom it should be a smooth gradient from dark to light.

Step 18 - I move on to the chest area. I start by laying down an even wash of H graphite and blend it out. Then I add some darker tones along the outter edges where the hair is. Just as I did with the hair I am blending this area out at the bottom.

When everything is complete and the way you want it spray your drawing with a good fixative. I recommend Winsor & Newton Workable Fixative

Start to finish this drawing took me around 20 hours over several weeks just working a few hours at a time.

All of my tutorials are free, I don't ask for anything in return. I make them because I enjoy talking art and teaching others. They do take me quite a while to put together, a lot of work goes into them. If you have enjoyed or benefitted from this tutorial all I ask is that you help promote it. You can do this by submitting to social networking sites, linking, blogging, or posting links on forums. Promoting my tutorials is a huge help!!

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Human Eye drawing tutorial

2012-01-15T01:42:00.000-08:00

DRAWING A HUMAN EYE

(TUTORIAL)

we can all probably draw the human eye, we draw the oval shape with the iris and pupil. I consider that to be a basic sketch of the eye. Before you draw a realistic eye you must first study what it really is. I will post a closeup picture of an eye so you can see what it looks up close. We all have them, but I’m sure that most of us haven’t really paid attention to what it really looks like up close. If you really want to draw a realistic eye, i suggest you study it well. This goes for any other object or feature. I’ll show the techniques that i use but it will be much easier if you understand what you are drawing. Well here it is, just click on it to get a full view of picture.

Take a look at the pupil(the black area in the center), this area contracts in size when light hits it. The area around the pupil is the iris, this is the area that gives us our eye color. As you can see its not just a blotch of brown, its made up highlights and shadows and this is what we will concentrate on. Adding the right shadows and highlights gives they eye depth and life. All eyes are different and you will see that adding different highlights in different areas gives different effects. The white dot close to the eye is the reflection of light source, it can be big or large, it depends if the person is indoor or outdoor. Another thing you must take into consideration is the shape of the eye. The surface of the eye is not flat, it has a curve to it. So taking that into consideration when drawing highlights will give the eye much more dimension. These are the tools that i used

Tools Used:

2h wood cased pencil
2b 0.5 Mechanical Pencil
Kneaded Eraser
Color Blender
Smooth Bristol Paper

This is the final drawing of what we’ll be working on. I’ll try to give a detailed explanation of the whole process that i use. Again, study the picture above to get an idea of what you’ll be drawing. It will make much more easier and with time you will understand how to take the same steps yourself. With the same process try to draw the eye above so that you can practice.

Step 1

Well we will start by drawing the outline, this can be a fast sketch, but enough detail to show the shape. I used 2b 0.5mm mechanical pencil. Make sure you don’t make the outline too dark or else you will have an outline in the end. The three round circles close to the pupil will be light source reflections.

Step 2

Start by filling in the pupil using the 6b progresso pencil. Make sure not to press too hard or else you will not be able to erase it easily if you need to. One good way to get really darks is to layer it. Start off by lightly going over with with the progresso pencil and then use the the color blender to blend it. Add another layer of pencil with progresso and do the same with blender. Keep on doing this until you are satisfied with it.

Step 3

Take your 4b progresso pencil and put down some graphite on a separate piece of paper. Get it as dark as possible, then with your color blender lightly rub that area. Now if you look at the tip of blender you will see that it has some graphite. Now rub the area around the the wobbly circle. If you don’t a have a color blender you can use a tortillon/shading stump. I would recommend that you have both of these tools, they can be helpful in achieving different effects.

Step 4

Using your mechanical pencil draw the lines that you see around the area that was shaded previously, try to make them quick and light. If they are random, it would be much better. These lines will serve as a guide of highlights and shadows that the iris has. From the reference picture of the eye above, you can see that the iris is full of highlights and shadows.

Step 5

Using your mechanical pencil lightly fill in the area around the pupil. Then with with the blender blend from the center of the pupil out. This will also pull some darks from the center of the pupil, giving that area some shadows.

Step 6

The area outside of the iris layered under the rest of the iris, adding these shadows gives the iris much more depth. Lightly draw them under and blend them with the rest of the dark area. You don’t have to put shadows all the way around, just on random areas.

Step 7

Using your blender pull from the edge of the inner area outside. This will give a nice pattern and will be a guide for the highlights and shadows on the outer area. Make sure you don’t shade the highlights or else you will lose them. You can always erase those areas after so they wont be as bright. You can now begin to see the eye come to life, layering is a big part of pencil drawing and learning what goes on top and bottom is very important. It might take a while to go through all these steps, but the time pays off in the end. After practicing, it will become much easier with each one.

Step 8

Draw around the whole iris with the 4b progresso pencil, don’t press too hard. This will outline the whole iris. Take your kneaded eraser between your index finger and your thumb then squeeze. This will give the kneaded eraser a fine edge. You will use this to pull some highlight from the area outside of the pupil. Make the highlights going around the area, don’t add too many, just enough that they stand out. If you pull too much graphite, just add more with the pencil, blend it with blender and use kneaded eraser again. You will probably need to make new edge on eraser after each time you pull graphite because it will stick to the edge. If you don’t, next time you try to make a highlight it will not pull as much graphite. These little erasers are amazing and all pencil artists should have them in their tools.

Step 9

Now blend the area that you outlined on the previous step. If its not dark enough just put down more pencil and blend it, it should look like the image above. On the previous step we pulled out some highlights with the kneaded eraser. Now randomly darken between some of those highlights using your mechanical pencil. This will bring out some of the highlights much more and will also add some shadows. Outline the edges of that area, this will make it stand out. Using your blender blend the edge of the pupil with the area outside. Don’t blend it too much, just enough so the end of the highlights blend out nicely.

Step 10

Using your progresso pencil draw out that shape that you see on the image above, it doesn’t have to look exactly, but it should be random. Don’t draw the outline too dark, just enough for you to see it. Darken the area below that outline, don’t make it too dark that it will stand out too much from the rest of the iris. Blend it just a bit in some areas so that it blends a bit into the rest of the iris.

Step 11

Using your kneaded eraser add some highlights around the outer iris. These highlights will be larger than the ones in the center. You can also make some that start from the outer edge of the pupil to the end of the iris, but don’t make too many of these.

Step 12

On the previous step we added highlights going straight down, here you will add highlights with kneaded eraser in an angle. You’ll be making “W” shaped highlights, just make enough that it will give the iris some texture. After making these highlights, you will add shadows, under some of these highlights. In the image above you can see a very clear “W”, below that you can see a darker area, this will be the shadow for this highlight. Add these shadows to some of the highlights around the iris, not all of them, make it as random as possible. Using your color blender, blend the ends of the these highlights so they don’t look like white lines. In this step we will also start working on the sclera, which is the white part of the eye. The tip of the color blender should still have some graphite, so use that to put down some graphite around the sclera like the image above. The two circles that you see on the right side will be highlights that will suggest wetness.

Step 13

Taking your mechanical pencil, darken the shadows around the edge of the iris. Add some dark lines in between some of the highlights for so the highlights can jump out more. In this step you can also experiment with highlights, add more or take away. We now have the basic design for the iris, from here on we can start to darken the whole iris by adding light layers of graphite using 2h pencil. If you’re drawing and eye that is blue, green or light in color, you would leave it like this. We also shaded the fold thats under the eyebrow and above the eyelash. Using your kneaded eraser you can erase between the glare spots to blend them together.

Step 14

Here we will darken the iris. Before we do that we will add some eyelash reflections, you don’t have to add this to all your drawings, but if the drawing is big enough you can. Over the 3 glare spots you can draw some eyelash reflections. The reflection from eyelashes would be reflected on the surface of the eye, since the glare spots are at the top and are white you can draw over them the tips of the eyelashes. Once you have done this, you lightly put down a layer with the 2h pencil over the whole iris. This will darken the highlights, darken the top section of the iris a bit more because this part will be a bit more darker because of shadows of the top of the eye and eyelashes. I added some other details like the reflections on the corner of the eyes. With the 2h pencil i also added some light blood vessels that run out from the corners of the eye. These little details make a big difference in drawing a realistic eye. Look at the reference photo at the beginning so you can see those blood vessels. Darken the sclera, the white part of the eye a bit with the blender, especially the corners. This will give the eye more depth and realism with the subtle blood vessels.

Step 15

The eyelashes are added, take a look at the angle that they are drawn, they are not drawn straight down,except for the ones in the center. These are drawn last because they are on top of the of the other features. Using your kneaded eraser you can add some highlights,which would be some hairs reflecting some light. You can play around with them to get a much realism. Just make sure you make sure to curve them, they are not straight. The ones in the center don’t have much of a curve because you’re looking straight at them.

Step 16

We will add now the lower eyelashes, these should be a bit lighter so you can use a 2h pencil to draw them or use the mechanical pencil and then use an edged kneaded eraser to tap along the hair to remove some graphite. Like the top eyelashes, the center ones curve down and you go either left or right so you start to see the curve on the hair.

Well that is about it, it might seem long but with time you will be drawing them with ease. Don’t worry if the first time it doesn’t come out right, keep practicing and you will see results. The more you draw it, the more you will understand each step and it will become much easier. Don’t be scared to experiment, study the reference eye and look at the features. Using the same tools that were used try different ways to put down those details. Be creative with the process, before you know it you’ll your eyes will be glistening and staring at you .

Conclusion

This tutorial should be only the first step, one thing i can tell you is that the more you draw the better you will get. I won’t stop reminding that you should study whatever you’re drawing. Understanding what you are drawing is so helpful and the end results will show the preparation. Hopefully this tutorial was helpful, if you have any problems or have any questions, leave a comment or contact me.

Share your results with others and get feedback from other members by posting your images here, Drawing Results

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Drawings by PAUL LUNG

2011-12-18T03:16:00.000-08:00

NEW

Drawings By PAUL LUNG

About Paul Lung

If you want know more about paul lung and his art Click here PAUL LUNG

Drawing of his friend

Amazing drawing

Great drawing

Drawing of his friend

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2011-12-11T02:08:00.001-08:00

Drawings of Ashil Raj

Drawing of Lady Gaga by Ashil Raj

Drawing of HollyWood Actress by Ashil Raj

Drawing of actor Surya by Ashil Raj

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Drawing of HollyWood actor Eric Bana by Ashil Raj

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Eye drawing by Ashil raj

2011-02-25T01:13:00.001-08:00

DRAW IT

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Step by step

This is roughly how I draw irises:

The white parts of the eye obviously aren't all that white, so...

Let's shade the upper eyelid!

It's time to draw a few eyelashes (and I'll show you where to start)

The part between the upper eyelid and the eyebrow's fun to draw. Awesome shading!

I'm ready to draw the eyebrow...

As you can see, I'm starting to shade anything that looks "flat", "missing" or "empty" at this point.

Of course, above the eyebrow, shading is needed aswell...

One last touch and we're FINISHED!

Circulism Technique

-while shading-

1.

Portrait Tutorial - How to Draw a Face Step by Step

Outline

Hair

Forehead

EYE

LEFT CHEEK

NOSE

Eye

RIGHT CHEEK

JAW

LIPS

CHIN

Neck

Human Eye drawing tutorial

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Photo:
"Sarajevo Surprise Attack" (2007)
Image via onemansblog